Defend The Homestead http://www.gunblast.com/Homeland_Security.

htm Homeland Security by Jeff Quinn

photography by Jeff Quinn March 26th, 2003

Much has been said in recent months regarding Homeland Security. We now have an official Department of Homeland Security as a part of the United States government. There is nothing wrong with this, and it is probably years overdue. Besides the task of guarding our borders and coordinating the various law enforcement branches of the government, the Department of Homeland Security advises the citizenry to basically be careful. As far as guarding our borders, they dont. People cross our borders illegally, everyday, by the hundreds. As far as coordinating our law enforcement agencies; I dont know, but it doesnt look like it is happening yet. Now, when it comes to advising the citizens of the United States on how best to protect themselves against terrorist threat; the DHS fails miserably. We are advised to buy plastic and duct tape to seal our windows and doors, stock a little food and water, and report any suspicious activity. They make no mention at all about how to best protect ourselves and our families against an actual terrorist. They advise us on how to protect against airborne chemicals and food shortages, but nothing is mentioned about protection from the cause of the problem. If we suspect a terrorist, we are to make a report to the proper authorities, and eventually they might investigate. That has proven to not be good enough. As individuals, the police cannot protect us. The U.S. Supreme Court has ruled that the police have no responsibility to protect an individual citizen. For a good example of law enforcements collective inability to protect the citizenry, we need look no further than last years attacks upon the people of the Washington, D.C. area. With a coalition of thousands of federal, state, and local police trying desperately to catch a shooter, fourteen people were shot by two thugs in a beat up Chevy, over a period of several days. After each shooting, the police swarmed the area instantly, interviewed witnesses, filled out reports, and did all that they could to find the killer, but were unable to arrive on the scene fast enough to save a life. This is not a condemnation of the police. It is a simple fact that we each cannot have our very own twenty-four-hour-a-day policeman. Even if we could, we are just paying him to do a job that we should do ourselves. Every day, in many parts of the world, people kill each other. Not all of these killers would be labeled as a terrorist, per se, by law enforcement. However, if four punks are bursting through your back door in the middle of the night, armed and intent upon the death of you and your family, to you they are, by definition, terrorists. In many parts of the country, the police are at least several minutes away. Whether this is due to their workload or geography, a lot can happen in ten minutes. Try this simple exercise: Pick up your telephone, pretend to dial 911, and then just sit and watch the clock for ten minutes. After about thirty seconds, you will start

to realize that ten minutes can be an eternity. Also bear in mind that ten minutes is a pretty good response time. It could take much longer, even if you live in a major city. Everyday, there are armed robberies, carjackings, rapes, murders, and other violent crimes perpetrated by ruthless thugs who couldnt care less about you or your family. They are bent upon their own selfish wants without regard for you at all. If they are successful, a cop will be there eventually to write a report, but it is up to you to deal with the situation now. These situations occur everyday in this country, and are more common than our elected officials would have us to believe. Now let us consider the real, genuine, hardcore terrorist; the kind that are organized and determined to take out as many American lives as possible. If you are sitting in an office building and some fanatic flies a high-jacked airplane into the building, there is nothing that you can do to prevent it. This scenario is, however, a very rare occurrence. Most often, terrorists take hostages and kill them one at a time. In a situation like this, your best bet is to be armed, and armed well. Each person must decide for himself what to do in a hostage situation, but dying with your hands tied behind your back because you gave up aint the best solution. If you are in a public building, the best .45 auto available in the glove box of your car is of no use to you. You must be armed. Another, and more likely, scenario that the Department of Homeland Security fails to mention, is the situation in which by chance terrorists do succeed in their endeavor to create mayhem and civil unrest in the United States. There are billions of people in this world, of which a small percentage are Americans. Of the remaining population, some like Americans, some tolerate Americans, and some hate Americans with an unhealthy vengeance. With many legal and illegal immigrants flowing across our borders each day, a major terrorist event is not only possible, but likely. If someone tells you how and when this will occur, they are lying. No one predicted the events of September 11, 2001. It was a total surprise. There are many vulnerable facilities in this country which, if attacked, could cause a major catastrophe and disruption of civil services. In desperate times, people who are normally civil can become a crazy mob. In such an event, in the face of rioting and looting, the police will be of little help. Take the example of the Los Angeles riots of a few years ago, for example. The police deserted and left the store owners in the district to fend for themselves. Those who were armed did quite well. Those who were not armed, wished that they were. I get questions daily from Gunblast readers who want to protect themselves, and want advice on a good concealment handgun to acquire. There are many great choices for a personal defense handgun, and everyone should own one. For more serious situations, however, such as defending the homestead or getting your butt out of a riot situation, a pocket pistol is not the ideal choice. First of all, if you are heading into a bad situation, the best advice is to avoid it altogether. However, if the fight comes to you, you better have a good rifle. As I write this piece, the U.S. and its true allies have been involved in a war for five days in Iraq. If you are involved in a fight with a determined mob, of any religion or nationality, you are in a small war. You need to be armed as such. When I am asked my opinion for the best rifle for which to defend against a formidable force, I usually suggest an AR-15. While I realize that there are many good weapons available; from your old 30-30 Winchester to an M1 Garand, the AR-15 is the state of the art rifle with which to defend you and your family against a determined group of

thugs, if you live in the free world. For someone in another part of the world, I might suggest an AK-47 or AKM, but for a U.S. citizen, I recommend an AR-15, and for good reason. The AR system is easy to use, battle proven, and readily available. Good high-capacity magazines and spare parts are available in quantity at fair prices. A good AR-15 is as reliable as any firearm can be. If needed, parts and ammo are as close as the nearest armory. The gun is relatively light, and can be extremely accurate. My Bushmaster Varminter is the most accurate center fire rifle that I own. The AR-15 is commercially available with barrels of sixteen, twenty, and twenty-four inch lengths, along with just about any custom length that is legal. The weak point in the AR system is the lightweight magazines. They are easily damaged, but spares are cheap and plentiful. Buy several. For sighting equipment, the sky is the limit. For long range work, I like a good scope sight, but for up close social work, the standard AR-15 A2 style sights are hard to beat. On a flattop AR, back-up iron sights or a back-up scope should be a part of the system. Ammunition for an AR-15 is relatively cheap and available in quantity. Military surplus ammo can be found for less than 14 cents per round. I really like the Israeli stuff. It is reliable and loaded to NATO specifications. Stockpile plenty of ammunition. I know shooters who have a good AR-15 and several magazines, but almost no ammunition. This is stupid. If you ever need your AR in a fight, the local Wal-Mart is not going to be able to supply your needs. Buy your ammunition in quantity, and practice often, rotating your ammo supply to keep it fresh. In good GI ammo cans, the stuff will last a long time, but practice is fun and the ammo is cheap. I like to keep an AR that is always loaded and ready to go, along with extra loaded magazines, ammo, and other accessories nearby, in the event that I must grab it and go in a moments notice. I call it my "Woods Rig". It is always ready. If you must abandon your home, you most likely wont have time to gather your weapon, magazines, and ammo. Having these things ready ahead of time and within easy reach can make the difference when the decision is made to move out. Asking a panicked wife to help you find your extra magazines while your front wall is collapsing is not conducive to a harmonious outcome. She should be busy grabbing her own rifle and supplies. Every scenario mentioned in this article is distasteful to a moral, decent citizen. On Gunblast.com, we normally discuss sporting and recreational firearms. We like shooting for the pleasure of the sport, but personal defense is a necessary topic to review from time to time, and is a reflection upon the times in which we live. Homeland Security is a responsibility of every citizen, not just those civil servants whom we pay to protect us. The fact is, there are people in this world who would do harm to you and me just because we are Americans. There are people who would do you harm because you are white, black, brown, rich, or poor. There are others who would kill you in your sleep for enough money to buy another hit of crack. Most good people dont want to face the fact that there is evil in this world, but evil does exist, and sometimes it comes to visit. It is our duty and our survival to be prepared. Much like having fire insurance on our homes, we hope to never need it. The United States Department of Homeland Security will never openly advise this, but every citizen should acquire the means to protect themselves, their family, and their country against those who would do us harm, and pray that we never need it.

Jeff Quinn http://www.endtimesreport.com/homedefense.html

HOME DEFENSE
We are no longer naive. We will need to defend our homes, indeed our very lives, from now into the future. Only call 911 for an antidote for poison. The status quo is that the bad guys are there and gone before the police can even respond. All they can do is take information for the next of kin. Besides, the Supreme Court has already ruled that police have a duty to the community at large, not to any one individual. That's right - the police have "No Affirmative Duty to Protect" us, affirmed by many court decisions! When your home experiences an "home invasion," try defending yourself with your kids baseball bat against bad guys armed with AK-47's. America is polarized with political opposites no longer able to compromise, with a huge influx of illegal aliens, etc. Throw in the possibility of a banking meltdown, trucker strike or wide-spread terrorist "events" creating food shortages, and civility can be quickly lost. Assault by one side can only be met with bold defense or subjugation on the other side. The result? Anarchy. It will happen. And when it happens, will you be able to defend yourself?

PERSONAL DEFENSE IS NOT THE SAME AS HOME DEFENSE. Personal defense means always having the means to defend

yourself available at all times. The North American Arms mini revolver in . 22 LR shown at right only weighs 4 ounces, but 5 rounds of hollow points are better than a sharp stick anytime! Sure, a .45 auto is vastly superior to a . 22 in battle, but personal defense often comes down to a knife versus a gun...and a gun wins every time, particularly if the handgun is readily available. The excellent Multi-Purpose carry case can hold a mini .22 and some ammo in a belt case that does not appear to be a holster. Available at my Survival Shop.

IF YOU HAVE TO CHOOSE ONLY ONE WEAPON FOR HOME DEFENSE..... Pepper sprays and slingshots will work just fine to infuriate an enemy...might as well build a catapult and hurl your stored food, and when that runs out, fling them your wife and kids. So ultimately, were talking guns for home defense. (NOTE: What I am going to say about firearms is for defensive use, not offensive use, and within the narrow view of Home Defense only - the purpose of this article. This is not to say that other weapons would not be very useful for other purposes, or that other weapons could not be used for Home Defense! This narrow definition is being written for those who do NOT already own firearms, and only wish one (1) weapon for Home Defense only. Personally, I believe the more, the merrier. The lowly .22 Long Rifle is incredibly useful for survival, as are the newer spring-powered air rifles that can attain 1000 fps in .17 caliber. But "survival" is not the same as "defense.") The primary object in home defense is to hit the target while avoiding such power and penetration that unintended victims are not hit. Obviously, if you are familiar with and have firearms, you are going to use what you have. But if you dont have a firearm and are going to buy one (1) for home defense, I recommend a shotgun. But not just any shotgun. Most common shotguns are 12 gauge waterfowl guns with long, full choke barrels. They are unwieldy in confined spaces, more powerful than required, overly noisy in confined spaces, and "kick" too much for novice shooters.

A 12 gauge "riot" shotgun fired in a house produces an incredibly deafening blast!

Twelve gauge "riot" shotguns with folding stocks are a particular problem with the stock unfolded. The hard synthetic stock is straight or slightly raised toward the front, not sloped downward toward the action. When the shotgun is fired, the shotgun raises in recoil, and the hard synthetic stock seems to jump straight up into your cheekbone with a teeth rattling jolt. A softer cheek piece is needed, and it should be black or dark grey to match the stock and sturdy closed cell foam, so it will not hold water. The answer? Water pipe insulation tubing! The

tubing is 3/8" thick foam, so it is thin enough to allow the stock to fold in the normal manner, yet thick enough to provide some cushioning from the brutal recoil when used unfolded. At left is a 4" long piece of 3/4" pipe insulation glued to the top of the folding butt stock using "Household Goop." A channel was cut out of the round pipe insulation (as shown) for a good fit. The 3/8" insulation makes a soft cheek piece, the shotgun can be fired without the feeling your teeth are going to rattle loose, and the stock still folds up tight against the action. As women and older children could be using this home defense shotgun, bulk, weight, recoil and noise are definitely factors to consider. Thus, a .410 bore shotgun is a great choice. A 3 inch . 410 shot shell fires 3/4 ounce of shot at 1100 feet per second, resulting in approximately 800 foot pounds of energy at the muzzle, and a 2 " .410 with ounce of shot produces approximately 600 foot pounds at the muzzle. The delivered energy at the defense ranges considered here are greater than a .357 Magnum revolver cartridge, but the longer barrel and greater weight of the shotgun results in less than half the noise and recoil. More important, the shot pattern is about 8 inches in diameter at 20 feet (full choke), and does not generally penetrate a wall, whereas a .357 Mag bullet pierces walls easily...and unintended victims on the other side.

In the close confines of home defense, a small dot laser light has limited usefulness. I mounted a 1" tube light with 8 super-bright LED's and a tail button switch. In the dark, the LED light is more than enough...if the target is lit up, it will be hit. The nice wide, non-marring clamp is model #SMC-1100 from www.allenslaw.com .

(There are those who will claim that the lowly .410 shot shell is too underpowered, even less than a .357 Magnum revolver. They are making their judgment based on recoil - comparing a . 357 Magnum revolver versus a .410 shotgun. Bad comparison, as a full length shotgun is heavier and held by two hands. I've got a .45 Colt/.410 derringer: recoil with a 2 1/2" .410 is extremely heavy, far worse than with a .357 Magnum derringer, and stronger than with the .45 Colt; recoil with a full length 3" Magnum .410 shot shell is fearsome enough to make just hanging onto the derringer extremely difficult. That recoil is easily tamed by the weight and length of a .410 shotgun.) Of course home defense means more than defense against two legged creature. In any breakdown of civilization, a weapon like a shotgun becomes critical. Pet dogs are abandoned, join in packs and quickly become feral. The can, and do, attack domestic animals, pets, and are even a danger to children. Raccoons can get into a chicken coop and kill a flock very quickly. Rabid dogs are not uncommon in a societal disaster. These must be dispatched quickly, yet they are a moving target and hard to hit. This is where a shotgun really shines, as the pattern of shot is easier to put on target than a single bullet fired by someone shaking under extreme anxiety and stress, and repeat shots are more likely to put additional pellets into the target zone. A .410 bore,

3" magnum with #4 pellets is up to the task -- at reasonable ranges. Don't think these are 100 yard range weapons! Hunting for food may well be necessary in the future. Small birds such as quail can be taken with a 2 " .410, larger birds with a 3" magnum, and game up to deer (at fairly close ranges) taken with a .410 slug load.

THE BEST HOME DEFENSE .410 SHOTGUN?

One excellent .410 bore shotgun for home defense was actually designed specifically for that task...wonder of wonders. The Mossberg HS410 (the "HS" an acronym for "Home Security", model #50359) is a 6 shot pump action shotgun with an 18 " barrel having a spreader choke, ideal for close action shooting in home defense situations. The stock is synthetic and the right length of pull for women and older children (but still works with large men), the action extremely rugged and reliable, and the short length makes it very handy in confined spaces. The price? About $360.00 in 2005. Now there is another excellent .410 bore shotgun on the market which may well be as good as or better than the Mossberg HS410 - the SAIGA .410 SHOTGUN. The cost of the Saiga is only about $270.00 - delivered, in 2005. It is an adaptation of the Kalashnikov designed AK-47 designed to fire .410 Magnum shot shells, has a semi-automatic action, and it comes with two magazines. With its 19" barrel, it would be handy in confined places, and it also comes with two choke tubes, increasing its versatility. The rate of fire would be better than with the Mossberg, and reliability is reportedly extremely high, but as with everything there are other factors to consider: A semi-auto action is less tolerant of loads than a slide action such as the Mossberg, so reloading for the Saiga requires more care and testing to be certain of reliable feeding. More information on the Saiga .410 shotgun can be found at http://www.weareguns.com/saiga.html

An additional .410 shotgun which some may want to consider is the Winchester lever action 9410, a variation of the venerable Winchester 94 lever action first introduced on January 1, 1895. In some variations, it holds 9 rounds of 2 1/2" shells in a very long tubular magazine, but the overall length is not conducive to easy handling in a home as compared with the overall length of either the Saiga or the Mossberg HS410. The 9410 is not chambered for the 3" Magnum .410 shell. Loading a tubular magazine is slower than simply changing magazines as with the Saiga, and it costs more than the Saiga. Nevertheless, there are those who love lever actions, and this is

the only one of which I am aware that is chambered for .410 shotshells. www.cdnnsports.com has both the Saiga semi-auto and Winchester 9410 lever action at very competitive prices. One lonely .410 shotgun will not suffice as complete home defense against a determined band armed with 7.62 x 39 mm AK-47's. But that is not the issue here. Either the Mossberg HS410 or the Saiga .410 will provide deterrence against such attacks, and time is always on your side in any conflict: given resistance, most attackers will give up and go on to easier pickings. Against a lesser attack, either shotgun should be equal to the task at hand, and far better than nothing at all. If you already have a good selection of home defense weapons, make sure you can reload for all of them. Ammo will make great barter stock in the future. My booklet, "Survival Reloading," includes reloading data for just about any cartridge (not shot shells) you would ever encounter, using hand tools or bench tools, and with only three different smokeless powders, so you can stockpile and be covered with whatever comes your way.

DON'T DO THIS! Respect your OWN privacy and keep off any government lists. Why invite trouble?

http://www.worldnetdaily.com/index.php?pageId=97491 Saturday, May 09, 2009 HOMELAND INSECURITY WorldNetDaily Exclusive Next step? No guns allowed for right-wing 'extremists' Bill empowers attorney general to forbid firearms for those 'suspected dangerous' By Drew Zahn WorldNetDaily Rep. Peter King, R-N.Y. A new gun law being considered in Congress, if aligned with Department of Homeland Security memos labeling everyday Americans as potential "threats," could potentially deny firearms to pro-lifers, gun-rights advocates, tax protesters,

animal rights activists, and a host of others - any already on the expansive DHS watch list for potential "extremism." Rep. Peter King, R-N.Y., has sponsored H.R. 2159, the Denying Firearms and Explosives to Dangerous Terrorists Act of 2009, which permits the attorney general to deny transfer of a firearm to any "known or suspected dangerous terrorist." The bill requires only that the potential firearm transferee is "appropriately suspected" of preparing for a terrorist act and that the attorney general "has a reasonable belief" that the gun might be used in connection with terrorism. Gun rights advocates, however, object to the bill's language, arguing that it enables the federal government to suspend a person's Second Amendment rights without any trial or legal proof and only upon suspicion of being "dangerous."

.410 BORE SHOT SHELL AMMO Surprisingly, 3" .410 bore shot shells cost twice as much as the much larger and more common 12 gauge shotgun shells, being priced at about $8 per box of 25. For the purpose of home defense, one does not need to have an armory full of ammo, though. I would recommend at least four (4) boxes of 3" .410's and four (4) boxes of 2 " .410 shells at a minimum, all with #4 shot. Those who are smart would also have a simple reloading kit for .410 and some reloading components as well. Remember that I wrote above that one advantage of the .410 is a lack of penetration? That can also be a disadvantage if you dont know where to aim. Number 4 shot is definitely not going to penetrate body armor, and many intruders now wear such readily available equipment. One advantage of a shotgun that can be used to offset that factor, however, is the very pattern that makes precise aiming not so critical: shoot at the face. It is unprotected, and even a visor wont help much. At longer ranges even a few pellets in the cheeks will discourage a determined opponent, cause it hurts, and they will know you are as intent on hurting them as they are intent on hurting you. Turnabout is fair play! "Aim" with a shotgun means looking down the barrel and seeing the front sight...there usually isnt a rear sight. The target is placed on top of the sight for the pellet pattern to strike correctly on bird sized game. On larger game, such as a feral dog, aim at the bottom of the body and the shot pattern should be in the chest area. If shooting at longer ranges, remember that small sized shot lacks mass and being circular has a poor ballistic coefficient, so it drops about 8 inches from line of sight at about 50 yards, so aim a little higher on the target.

HANDGUNS FOR SELF DEFENSE

The great debate regarding handguns for self defense usually comes down to the subjective issue of "stopping power." I used the word "subjective" deliberately. There are those who cite military experiments (Gen. Hatcher) as "proving" that only .45 caliber handgun bullets as having acceptable stopping power usually do not mention that the bullets used were "hardball," non expanding round nose bullets conforming to the Geneva Convention guidelines. A 185 grain, .

452" round nose bullet fired from a 1911 Colt in .45 ACP does not "cut" a .45" hole in the "target," but rather punctures a .45" hole because of the round nose. And in many cases that non expanding bullet has too much penetration for home defense, so it does not transfer all of its energy to the first "target." Often there is sufficient penetration to go through a wall behind the first target and endanger an innocent. The trick, then, is to obtain at least .45" expansion with full transfer of deliverable energy within the body of the first "target," with no excessive penetration.

Sufficient "stopping power" for home defense can be obtained with a 0.357" bullet if it is properly chosen and reloaded to acceptable velocities. The photo above shows the results of tests using a Speer .357" hollow base wadcutter - loaded backwards - with the full huge hollowpoint exposed. At the extreme left above is a .38 S&W cartridge with a Speer 38 HBWC loaded backwards, and at right is a .38 Special with the same bullet. The load was 3.0 grains of Red Dot, for a "real world" velocity of over 820 fps in a 3" barrel. Recoil was extremely mild and the load is suitable even for old top-break .38 S&W's. Bullet #1 was loaded with the hollow base down, as normal. Penetration was far too great and there was no expansion. This loading is unacceptable for home defense. Bullet #2 was loaded backward, but the bullet hit solid bone. There was no "fluid" to effect an opening of the hollow cavity, so the cavity collapsed and the bullet nose "self forged" into a spire point. Expansion was to 0.625" with very sharp cutting edges, and penetration was not excessive. Bullet #3 was loaded backward and fired into fluid with no solid object hit (a "gut shot"). Hydraulic effect in the hollow cavity resulted in expansion to 0.694", and penetration was 6". The hydrostatic shock of this bullet is incredible, and there was full transfer of 200 ft. lbs of energy within 6" of bullet impact travel. Bullet #4 was loaded backward and first hit soft tissue and fluid, then hit hard bone. The hydraulic effect opened the hollow cavity which was then further expanded by contact with a hard object. Expansion was to 0.800" with sharp cutting edges. This is almost twice the diameter of a .45 ACP bullet - and the sharp edges combined with the rotational aspect imparted by the rifling had a cutting power not possible with a non expanding round nose 0.452" bullet at the same velocity. Properly loaded, even an ancient top break .38 S&W has adequate "stopping power" for home defense. "Properly loaded" includes overall cartridge length. There is no ogive on the fulldiameter hollow base wadcutter loaded backwards, but revolver chambers have a "step" in the forward portion of the cylinder for the bullet. The bullets must be seated deeply enough to slightly enter the chamber fully without resistance. As individual handguns have different specifications for chamber dimensions, the loaded cartridges must be tried in each chamber to obtain the correct seating depth. That is why the seating depth of the bullets in the cartridges shown above is not the same.

Loaded into a .38 Special case to velocities exceeding 950 fps, expansion of the backwardsloaded hollow base wadcutter is spectacular, often resulting in considerable bullet fragmentation. For home defense, however, the higher velocity is not needed, as it results in considerably higher recoil and noise, neither of which is desirable when fired from a small handgun fired in the confines of a closed room. Links to more information: RELOADING .410 BORE SHOT SHELLS

"HOMELAND SECURITY" RELOADING, by John Derby SURVIVAL RELOADING BY MILES STAIR

http://www.loghomebuilders.org/remote-cabin-security where are you building? I could use some new tools! Joking aside, that is a big issue that many people here have to face. Maybe a list is in order. Other members, feel free to add as appropriate. 1) don't tell the locals what you are doing and where you are doing it (until you are confident in them). A newbie in town spouting off about his project in the hardware store is asking that a meth head (buying supplies to brew his own) stop by and help himself. 2) Lock up your stuff. You'd be surprised the highschool miscreants that can be dissuaded by a masterlock. 3) make friends with your neighbors. If they live seven miles away down the access road, they may keep their eyes out for strange vehicles heading up your way. 4) some scary "constitutional keep out signs" like are at skips place are not a bad touch, lets theives know (who are literate) that you are enforcing your right of privacy and protecting you and your family's safety with deadly force if necessary. The threat of death seems to ward off some. (However, never rig up booby traps to catch/harm theives/vandals--you'll be liable for any harm you do them (see katko v. briney, US supreme court case). 5) video cameras may be workable (And a time lapse vid of your progress would be awesome on you tube!). Just put it in either a very conspicuous place (and) or a very hidden place. This will keep those afraid of cameras off your land, and catch those who aren't as leary. Any other ideas? -LHBA member since 2006 http://www.endtimesreport.com/DEFENSE_SAVVY_I.html

SURVIVAL DEFENSE SAVVY I

BY Hal Walter
The dean of American survivalists July 30, 1919 - April 13, 2009 Rest In Peace, Harry Each home/shelter/property will be unique, requiring special adjustments. That may be the primary reason why the few dedicated survivalists really do not integrate any effective type of

defense plan into their long term scenarios. Yet, most everyone that considers the nuclear threat admits that the one common factor that will directly affect all of our citizenry is PANIC, accompanied by the disruption of all critical services and the ugly specter of looting and invasion of privacy. Almost without exception, the 'solution' for these assured scenarios is possession of GUNS AND AMMO. Beyond this obvious necessity nobody seems to consider the critical importance of effective defense planning that encompasses the utilization of factors such as terrain, location in relation to other buildings, protective features designed into the family home and shelter, personnel (including the level of training and competence), function of perimeter defenses, use of electronic warning devices, organization of communication within the family group... as well as outside communications (I. e. 2-meter radio; 18 mile range handheld radio, etc.).... and much more. One of the most important, and least understood, factors in military planning over the centuries has been how to incorporate FLEXIBILITY in the overall plan for any one specific defense scenario (I. e. the conflict relating to the defense of the invasion of Europe in WW2). On a personal family survival level there is a total lack of comprehension as to how to incorporate this flexibility factor into the defense plan for a home.. much less how to establish any type of 'fixed' defensive features. One obvious axiom that must be accepted from the beginning is that 'a shelter cannot and should not depend on it's primary defense from INSIDE THE SHELTER. This presumes an AREA approach to shelter defense. Another concept that is difficult to communicate with anyone is the need, in the home and shelter defense plan, to include the flexibility factor so that a normal home layout can be almost instantly be turned into the most effective defensive layout without dependence upon some type of theoretical, idealized, impractical, last-minute, helter-skelter, improvised, futile attempt to protect. (To be continued.) http://www.endtimesreport.com/DEFENSE_SAVVY_II.html

SURVIVAL DEFENSE SAVVY II

BY Hal Walter
The dean of American survivalists July 30, 1919 - April 13, 2009 Rest In Peace, Harry LOCATION: People interested in survival preparedness are seldom in a life situation whereby they can select a specific geographic location, taking their survival planning into account. Yet, there are literally millions of our citizens who do, for various reasons, pull up stakes and should be able to incorporate a survival plan into their decision making in choosing their new location. GEOGRAPHIC CONSIDERATIONS: A primary factor , believe it or not, is for the survival planner to actually accept the facts relating to the nuclear age. Almost all Americans refuse to face the realities surrounding the threat levels involved in dealing with survival of a nuclear war scenario. A few examples: 1) The range of the

missiles aboard a Russian or Chinese nuclear submarine is over 4,000 miles. 2) The range of the land-based missiles in these arsenals is over 8,000 miles 3) The power of an H-bomb (which has been known, and ignored, for over 50 years, is enough to devastate a heavily populated area (a 1megaton bomb would leave an area 16 miles in diameter in ruins... and many missiles carry 3 megaton warheads). The mysterious "suitcase" bombs supposedly now located in the USA largest cities have explosive power in the range of 550 kilotons (over megaton) which will be sufficient to destroy most every large city. What do these FACTS tell the would-be survival planner? Obviously that, to be effective, a survival program MUST BE located in a NON-TARGET area. This does not exclude the concept of a home based within a target area combined with a well-planned evacuation program that provides a complete survival layout in an adjacent non-target area. As part of the geographic location considerations must also be included the potential effects of RADIOACTIVE FALLOUT and EMP (Electromagnetic Pulse). One distasteful fact that must be faced by the survivalist who does have the luxury of locational choice is the reality that the NUCLEAR AGE WILL NOT GO AWAY... threat levels will continue to increase far into the foreseeable future. This unpleasant fact implies that survival include the development of long-term plans which give consideration to family members. Attempting to ignore the future impact of nuclear war on children and grandchildren is an exercise in futility. Instead, sound planning for family survival should be part-and-parcel of everyone's future. LOCATION...(continued) The vast majority of people do not think that they are able to handle the major changes involved in pulling up stakes to fully confront the challenges involved in facing the threats of nuclear war. So, the obvious next best move is to take positive action to adapt their present location to as effective a survival program as is possible. Also, reality dictates that not all target-areas will be directly attacked by the forces of the H-bomb weaponry.... but still will be affected by the panic, deprivation of services, shortages, and other indirect effects of a war scenario.... making a wellplanned survival effort critical for avoiding the worst of the life-threatening threats. LOCATION ANALYSIS: Every would-be survival structure should have a detailed walk-around, drive thru, personalized analysis. This includes an area review which takes into account the roadways and all other access routes that could, in times of stress, affect your actual home/shelter layout. Note should be taken of any adjacent homes, walls, fences, brush, trees, etc. that could affect your fields-of-fire or ability to view any and all areas which may act as approaches to your home. Anywhere possible obstacles should be either be removed.... or noted for future removal. In rural locations, you should become familiar with perimeter areas as well as all terrain features that affect access or line-of-sight. Access roads or trails should be blocked or protected with fencing and lockable gates. The "Maginot Line" concept of providing complete control of all access to any property is difficult, or impossible, to implement. However, in the panic that follows a nationwide breakdown of law and order the rioters and looters will gravitate to the undefended structures. This makes it imperative that you should create as many obstacles... including effective gunfire.... as possible! (Temporary end of Section #2)

http://www.endtimesreport.com/DEFENSE_SAVVY_III.html

SURVIVAL DEFENSE SAVVY III

BY Hal Walter
The dean of American survivalists July 30, 1919 - April 13, 2009 Rest In Peace, Harry Face it.... the average home has not been designed with any thought of providing for protection from the panic and civil disorder that will come with a nuclear attack on the USA! To remedy this oversight would normally be impossible for the average homeowner.... UNLESS a unique approach could be used that would be inexpensive as well as adaptable to the 'do-it-yourself' capabilities of the would-be survivalist. This is exactly the method used by our own family in developing an extremely secure and defensible program that not only is effective against gunfire, but also adapts readily to shielding from nuclear radioactivity.... and has the FLEXIBILITY needed to plan for any last-minute adjustments. I am speaking of using SOLID CONCRETE BLOCKS... sized at normal usage, with mortar, at 4" thick; 8" wide, and 16" long. Used, as we do, without mortar, the net size is 3 5/8" x 7 5/8" x 15 5/8". The density (weight) may vary. When we first began using these blocks to supplement our shelter design they weighed about 31# per block. In later years, as our defense program expanded (flexibility) we found that the same size blocks weighed in at about 22# per block.... creating a less effective bullet resistance as well as being less of a radiation barrier. This factor will have to be considered by the survivalist when constructing barriers.... in some places adapting by adding an extra row of block. As just one practical example of our own use of these solid concrete blocks, we found it wise to create a bullet-proof barrier completely around the main (first) floor of our home... primarily with the purpose of being able to use this area as a key position if forced to defend from attackers. Our basement level, under the entire first floor, is not vulnerable to gunfire or forced entry, the walls being constructed of poured and rodded concrete blocks.... without windows and protected by steel entry doors. The first floor, on the other hand, is constructed more like the normal home, with windows and multiple outside entrance doors, none of which provide protection from shoot-thru random gunfire. To solve the problem of creating a first floor safe from projectiles, we have used these same concrete blocks, piled along our inside walls where they are a permanent barrier for the lower part of the wall.... and giving us the ability to pile one-half of each barrier wall on top of the other half with a minimum of last-minute effort. In some especially vulnerable places the interior block walls are piled floor-to-ceiling on a permanent basis. Also understand, these blocks are easily painted to fit into the room decor... also providing table-height work and counter space. In an overall analysis of the security provided around the entire first floor of our home it has been possible, thru the imaginative use of the concrete blocks, to create a 'safe' and defensible floor area in our home that otherwise would be useless under the turmoil that comes with a war scenario.

In order to create portholes in the concrete block walls we have used the 2" punched angle iron that are both strong enough to support the blocks but also thin enough not to upset the block alignment. To protect the porthole openings so that they can be used for firing and still maintain protection from incoming fire we have adapted a special 'Oil Sand Sample Bag' that is 10" in circumference and 17" in length....filled with sand these bags can be fitted tightly into the porthole openings...or adjusted to allow for a small opening to accommodate a gun barrel and provide a clear sight for your field of fire. These bags were available at Hutchinson Bag Company, 5 S. Poplar, P.O. Box 1286, Hutchinson, Kansas 67504. The bags can be painted to match your outside home color so that they blend into the concrete wall decor. In order to make these bags even more bulletproof you can line the inside of the bag with regular screening material. This creates a barrier which prevents the sand from running out of the bag when penetrated. The bags can also be used for any special barriers that need to be positioned anywhere in your concrete wall or inside your home where you may be vulnerable. For homes built on a slab, without a basement, this is likely the only possible method for creating a defensible plan.... the alternative being to abandon any hope of protecting your family and possessions. REMEMBER.... even though you are not now located in a target zone, the threat of radioactive fallout as well as rioting hangs over everyone in our country.... and guess who is ultimately responsible for you and your loved ones? The cost of the solid concrete blocks ran around $1.40 to $1.50 each.... but each survivalist will have to either work thru his local lumber yard as a source.... or find a manufacturer near enough to make pickup of the blocks a realistic alternative to paying for the delivery costs.

Another very important consideration is whether or not you have an area where you can construct a radiation-resistant fallout shelter... preferably in a basement area underneath your home... or directly connected to an outside shelter thru a basement entrance. This shelter can also be constructed mainly by piling the solid concrete blocks so as to provide maximum shielding.... remembering that radiation travels in straight lines.... making the 45 degree entrance jog a necessity. Other practical defensive planning, as incorporated in our own survival program, will be explored further in Section #4. Hal Walter http://www.endtimesreport.com/DEFENSE_SAVVY_IV.html

SURVIVAL DEFENSE SAVVY Part IV

BY Hal Walter
The dean of American survivalists July 30, 1919 - April 13, 2009 Rest In Peace, Harry

PERIMETER DEFENSE

Protecting the outer limits of your own property as well as neighboring land and buildings that affect your own safety is essential. Each location will require different solutions. Listed below are some suggestions that could be considered. A) Battery operated sensors that cover a distance of up to 1000' are available. A major problem with these units is that, on a continual operating mode in a peacetime environment they will pick up every movement (animals, wind-driven grass, etc.) that proves to be irritating and unnecessary. However, these sensors can be installed and kept turned off until the need is apparent. B) Outside permanent spotlights that are switched from inside the home. C) Handheld high powered spotlights that can be used if the home power is cut off....or to pinpoint any suspicious movements in more detail. D) Metal roofing that provides fire resistance and improved water runoff that could more efficiently rid the roof of fallout particles than other types of material. E) Construction of corner forts that provide 180 degree visibility and efficient fields of fire along both sides of the home. F) Wrought iron window coverings and entrance doors that prevent access thru usual unprotected glass. G) Curtains and window shades that provide the ability to block out interior lighting. H) Solid core doors outfitted with quality hardware. I) To provide protection from gunfire aimed at the portholes in your outer block walls....as well as another flexible means of creating improvised shooting stations....you can use what are called Oil Sand Sample Bags. These are cotton bags with drawstring tops, sized 10" x 17", that can be filled with sand. To improve the protective feature of this sand-filled bag I have lined them with ordinary window screening. This prevents the sand from running out of the bag where bullets have entered. These bags are sized so that they fill the portholes in the block walls.....or can be partially filled to give both protection from incoming fire as well as provide space for a gun barrel, plus the visibility to aim effectively. These bags were available from Hutchinson Bag Co., Hutchinson, Kansas. PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT A) Body armor ...usually Kevlar B) G.I. Kevlar helmets C) Phaser spray. Contains oleo resin capsicum and CN in a very potent 30' spray. D) Handguns carried in easily accessible holsters E) Semi-auto rifles F) Knives G) Communication

I) FRS and GMRS personal handheld radios Available in ranges from 2 miles up to 18 . 2) 2-meter Ham radios... both base station and handheld.... Will be main method of long-range communication in post-attack environment. (Should be left disconnected to avoid EMP) 3) Wireless intercoms.. Radio Shack... useful only if power is on. 4) Cell phone (May be affected by EMP or atmospheric turbulence caused by H-bomb) http://www.endtimesreport.com/DEFENSE_SAVVY_V.html

SURVIVAL DEFENSE SAVVY Part V

BY Hal Walter
The dean of American survivalists July 30, 1919 - April 13, 2009 Rest In Peace, Harry PSYCHOLOGICAL and LEGAL PROBLEMS It is difficult to imagine, much less plan for, the chaos that will come with a nuclear strike on the United States. We have not had internal conflict of any magnitude since the Civil War. As a result most Americans, except some veterans of WW2, Korea, Vietnam and our current involvement in the Middle East are not emotionally or physically prepared to confront these types of scenarios. As stated before, few individuals or communities are designed to adapt to the severe conditions that come with a societal breakdown. After over 50 years existence of the H-Bomb and the delivery systems capable of devastating any areas within the United States, most Americans are uninformed, complacent, and totally unprepared to confront the facts and actions needed to be able to survive a nuclear war. Many even rely on the rational that a nuclear war CANNOT happen. This, frankly, is just plain stupid and cowardly. Another large group who understands that it CAN happen still take the equally invalid attitude that, because it has not taken place as yet....and that rational people worldwide will not let anything this terrible happen....that they do not have to be concerned about the need for individual, family, and community dedication to the realities that make survival planning such an unpleasant choice. Then there are the worst if the fatalistic breed who whine that "I wouldnt want to live in a world like that....so Ill just kiss my rear end goodbye and die with the rest of the people" Sure enough, when it happens these will be the ones screaming for others to help them live...and creating more chaos and death because of their present cowardice and selfishness. AND....they will get their death wish!

Thinking honestly about some of the very unpleasant scenarios, here are some pertinent questions to ask yourself. * What ethical standards will you find yourself confronting when it comes to defending your home...which will meaning killing or wounding your attackers who are threatening your family and friends? Do you just give up and let them rob, rape, and kill your loved ones? OR....if you do use lethal force, what is your obligation to observe the so-called Geneva Convention standards relating to treating enemy wounded, taking prisoners (who will have to be fed, clothed, and given equal treatment to that available to your own family), and all of those legal niceties that come with the fantasies connected with civilized warfare. Remember that these attackers endangering your family will most likely NOT be some hateful foreign race (Jap, Chink, Russkie, etc), but may well be your next door neighbors whose lack of preparedness has turned them into people capable of the worst kind of depraved behavior. *What about your responsibility towards friends and neighbors who have not attempted to attack you? Will you have the specialized instruments to detect radiation that can save their lives? Will you have the extra food and supplies that they have not stockpiled? Will you have the special knowledge that comes with a long-term preparedness program...and be able to use this know-how to save lives? MAKE AN HONEST EVALUATION! Almost all Americans will fail miserably in the final analysis. END OF SECTION 5
http://www.abc.net.au/local/stories/2009/11/17/2744858.htm

If you plan to stay and defend your home, you need to make sure you are prepared as well as your house. "Preparing yourself is just as vitally important [as preparing your house]," says Phil. This means knowing what your fire plan is and knowing how to put it into action. Make sure you know what equipment you have and how to work it, such as water pumps and hoses. Have appropriate clothing to protect yourself from radiant heat and sparks. "No polyester. Shrink wrap on the body." Good fire fighting clothing includes a wide brimmed hat or a helmet, goggles, gloves, long sleeved top and long trousers made of a heavy cotton drill or something non-flammable, sturdy work boots and some sort of mask or damp cloth to cover your mouth and face. "It's not uncommon for us to see people in their singlets and shorts, hosing down the roof, and the roof isn't going to burn anyway, and then falling off the roof and injuring themselves," says Phil. Before the fire is near your home, fill up as many containers with water as you can. Fill the bath and sinks with water, use any pots and pans and buckets you may have to hold water, because it's easier and faster to grab a pot of water to put out a spark than to try to get water from the tap. "When my family went through our bushfire I...dressed [my wife] up in the right clothing and put a helmet on her head and I said 'here's the mop' and she looked at me and laughed and she

said 'what do I do with that' and I said 'well, keep the mop wet and when you see a spark, put the mop on it'. "We found that one of the greatest fire fighting tools was a wet mop." As a fire approaches, Phil says you need to be vigilant and patrol the outside of your house, putting out any sparks and embers that land near the building, and when the fire front reaches you, you should get inside the house. "We believe that a home will protect a person, but a person needs to protect a home." Stay inside until the fire front has passed, and then again, patrol and put out any small fires you can. If you are planning to stay and defend your home, you will need to plan to defend it on your own, because if that day is a bad one for bushfires, you might not be able to get any help. "We don't have enough fire fighters or fire trucks on a given day like that. "If you were to dial 000 there's a very high probability that you won't get a fire truck come because we're all going to be committed somewhere."
http://www.abc.net.au/local/stories/2009/11/16/2744318.htm

"As far as a fire risk goes, some of the things you need to consider here is maintaining this defendable space, which means maintaining your lawn and the amount of vegetation particularly close to the house," says Phil. How big your defendable space needs to be depends on how steep your property is. The Tasmania Fire Service has a table to help you work out how much space you need around your house on their website. Linda's property is on a slope of about 25 degrees. This means she should aim for an inner zone of defendable space (an area largely clear of highly flammable material and plants) of about 25 metres and an outer zone (an area that may be forested, but kept mostly clear of shrubby undergrowth and a build up of leaf litter) of about 30 metres. Even though Linda's property is bordered by heavily forested protect parkland, she still has a good defendable space around her home. Maintaining a defendable space can be as easy as regularly mowing the lawn and keeping leaf litter from building up around the house. You may also want to consider want plants you have in your garden near the house. The TFS has a pamphlet listing different plants and how flammable they are. All plants will burn if the conditions are right, but some burn much easier than others, and you should consider this when planning your garden.
http://www.abovetopsecret.com/forum/thread207168/pg1

How to defend your self, on a budget.

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Topic started on 10-5-2006 @ 02:40 AM by GrOuNd_ZeRo In this thread I'd like to give some advice to anyone concerned with their safety, be it from burglars, muggers, looters and the government when they finally come for us i'd like to give you a list of options on how to defend your self on a budget (assuming many people on ATS do not have the luxery of much money, like my self).

Home Defense
In home defense scenerio's you need to defend your self in close quarters, generally a shotgun is the golden rule for defending your home, you need little aim and have maximum take down power, I will give options for items you can buy to keep you save. -Baseball bat, generally are quite cheap and easilly attained, they generally can be found all over the place including thrift stores and Wal-Mart, they run from a dollar to 30 bucks for a suficient one, generally wood ones are the best but a alluminum bat is almost as effective. -Chinese shotguns, they run very cheap and generally can be found on auction sites like gunbroker, HL-12 is an example of these shotguns, they are generally reproductions of other famous shotguns, they usually run from 150~250, other good shotguns are Mossberg 500's, for 240 you can generally get a pistolgrip + heatshield equipted home defense gun. -Cheap handguns, generally American made handguns are the Hi-Point CF-380 .380ACP (MSRP 120) C-9 (MSRP 140, but can be had for less) 9mm, JCP .40S&W (MSRP 170 but can be had for 150 or less) and JHP .45ACP (same as JCP), Jimenez JA-Nine (150 usually) avoid it as the plaque since it's a junk gun, might look better, but avoid anything that is called Jennings/Bryco/Jimenez, other options are Makarov pistols, generally the Makarov pistols are in the 200~250 price range, they are generally as reliable as the Hi-Points and very concealable.

Personal Defense, you'd best stick with foreign guns here, like surplus pistols
like the Makarov or if you can afford it, a Walther PPK in a respectable caliber, other options are a knife or a tazer, keep in mind that most states in the US requires you to have a Concealed Weapon carry permit and they are generally not cheap and

require you to go through classes so personal defense is only legally permitted if you have one or are on your home or business turf, but if that's the case your better off with a shotgun, revolvers are often recommended as well because they afford more reliable operation but are generally more expensive than semi-auto pistols, avoid calibers like .22 (no matter if it's Short, Long Rifle or even .22 Magnum) .380, . 38 (.38 Special should suffice though) and avoid calibers that go over the .45 range or 10mm range since the recoil will be unmanagable. I don't recommend Hi-Points for carrying since they are quite heavy and bulky. Also, taking martial arts training classes could be quite effective if you are disarmed, they can save your life at any point in your life.

Breakdown of society/War/Looting/NWO take over,

For this I could only recommend one thing, or rather a combination, It would be best to form pockets of resistance/defense, have people equipted with Romanian AK's like the WASR-10 (300~400 dollars) GP Hi-Cap model, SAR-1/2/3 (350~500) for medium distance engagements, have people defending your 'base' (E.G. home) have Shotguns as mentioned in the home defense portion of this post and have backup pistols with sufficient take down power like a .40cal or .45cal, I can also recommend 9mm/.40caliber carbines like the Hi-Point 995 (MSRP 200 dollars but is often found for 169 dollars) models and the more expensive PC-9. M44 Mosin Nagants equipted with scopes would be good for long range engagements if necesary but sniper mosin nagants and their scopes can run high in cost. Other things that should be considdered is food rationing/storing (I.E. store non perrishable foods in containers in a secure location of your 'base') , ammo storage, preferable in a same but accessable location. Power Generators and other necessity items should be considdered, if your neighborhood is in a budget you might want to discuss where you want a base located (based upon where the most defenable position is), you could even discuss payment plans and chip in for the generators and armaments & ammunition. Conclusion even though such things might not ever happen, it's always a good idea to be on the defensive, no matter if it's protecting your self from violent crime a foreign or domestic enemy or desperate looting, your best defense for such events is to be ready in advance, you can't predict the future, you can't predict unforseen events, why would you let your life hang in the ballance just because you didn't want to seem paranoid or because you though it would never happen? did you ever think

9/11 was gonna happen? seriously? did you think Katrina was gonna happen? Violent crime happens daily, home invasions happen daily but any day there might be a natural disaster, a war or even a government take over or a police state, a terrorist event might happen and the police might come in and say; please stay calm and please give us your weapons, it's for your own protection, blah blah blah. Whatever you do, NEVER give away your guns to anyone, it's your only insurence for safty besides martial arts, but against an armed foe they wont do a whole lot don't you think? We are masters of our own destiny, don't let the elitist get you, don't let foreign nations get you (don't think you can trust even our closest allies!). Another thing you must keep in mind is to not get swayed by these "gun snobs" that will say that you will need to buy a 800 dollar Sig Sauer or a 600 dollar glock just because they are trendy and name brands, read reviews on your weapons and see how other users like it, DO NOT assume that they so called experts no it all, ask the people that USE them. I am sorry if this topic is a little redundant in the weaponry forum or if my conspiracy babble is a little weird or paranoid, I am just here to help people out deciding on how to defend them selves and what to prepare for and what to use in an event you might not be able to forsee. I also would like to make people realise that thjngs DO happen and WILL happen if we don't stop it from happening, if you give a crook the chance to do something (no matter if they are on the streets or in office) they will do it, another major defense is simply resisting laws that aid the police state and / or NWO take over. The NWO or New World Order is real, many influentional people have mentioned it before and from what we can gather it's not a good thing, it's a way to enslave humanity and a way to have total control of the populace, Just look at the recent JFK thread and you will realise that the Bush cabal has been pushing for this for decades and have influenced the presidents from the 60's till now. Please, stay safe. [edit on 5/10/2006 by GrOuNd_ZeRo]

How to defend your self, on a budget.

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reply posted on 11-5-2006 @ 03:15 PM by Violent Excellent - thanks for the tips Libra! You advise against a 30-.06, which was the primary choice I have been looking at. I understand the .22 idea, but have a tendency to enjoy and prefer larger load weapons. A .22 just seems less forgiving than a higher calibre piece. Ideally, I could train and have extremely good aim and be able to use a .22 effectively, but for an alternative with a higher load for greater penetration do you have any suggestions in light of your avoidance of 30-.06? Sound advice on the losing the scope in favor of the sights. I have used sights on all weapons I've ever had and never used a proper scoped piece. I suppose that is part of the interest for me though, being as I like to challenge myself with new things. And the sniper type systems are a mere curiousity for me, I'd never want to try and get something like that without a lot of time and equipment training for it, and would see a smaller profile less gadgety rifle much much more practical at any rate. (which IS what I am looking for) [edit on 11-5-2006 by Violent]

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reply posted on 11-5-2006 @ 03:17 PM by northwolf out to 500m any decent hunting rifle will do the job (with a normal hunting optics) over 500m you need some tweaks to your out of the shop gun (i'm currently planing a nice light sniper from Mosin Nagant m1944) As for Destruction of Civilization situations i have few ideas based on my experience in LR recon exercises: 1. Make sure you have a good back pack, preferably with external frame (75-95l) You may need to relocate and prehaps stay moving for days/weeks 2. a day pack is a good accesory in case you need to scout out or hunt at times (my backpack has a day pack attached to it) 3. A good knife is essential (not for fighting, but as a tool) my avatar shows mine.. 4. if you know how to handle explosives properly you might want to have a 0.5kg and few fuses (it makes fishing in emergency situation really easy and effective)

As for need for water, 3L/day is enough for a fit adult male... for a short while... tried and tested fact. Avoid powdered meals since they require water to cook... As for attacking an occupying force, hit for Signal units and tankers they will hurt them most, officers are harder to pick out these days And remember if things get hot all you need to do is march out 90km in 48h and you'll be out of harms way

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reply posted on 12-5-2006 @ 12:50 AM by orangetom1999 the libra yes that question was related to QRZ.com. I am a ham radio operator with several kind of sets. I also taught myself to make my own antennas from wire or even copper pipe. Yes some type of communications equipment would be in order. Careful thought and consideration here would be in order as to reliability and functionallity. Also I agree with Deus Ex's assessment of a dog..the right dog and well trained would be very handy...protective too. Well done Deus Ex...Well done. As to being prepared...nothing wrong with that ..its just common sense. It is amazing to me how many people never prepare for anything other than tonights TV program. The recent hurricanes around here clearly indicated how many people got caught with little or nothing. Our storms to date are nothing like what they get in Florida or the recent one down in New Orleans. People here were trying to steal other peoples generators...amazing!! It wasnt that bad a storm....knock on wood...its just that some people never prepare for anything....ever. I have purchased two generators here over the years ...a 4000 watt and later a 7500 watt. I have recently been looking into a device called a inverter..which will convert DC power from a car battery to AC power to runs fans and other equipment. The one I purchased is a 1500 watt capacity. It should be enought to power a refrigerator...which is my main concern for frozen/refrigerated stores. By the way..if you ever get a generator..also get the equipment to secure it . a chain and lock.

I tend to stock food in quantitys...canned and some dried foods..by the case..if I can ..veggies and such...meats...too..in cans. STews..etc soups. Its just my habit. I rotate them around by dates as I consume them. I learned long ago to be prepared for bad weather to set in here on the East Coast. Usually when the storms come..and you go to the stores the stuff you want is bought out...so stock up ahead by careful thought and use checklists. I keep two of those Coleman camping cook stoves around. YOU know ..the type you put the white gas in them and pump them up. I got them at a yard sale cheap and refurbished them. I keep several one gallon cans of that liquid white gas on hand. This fuel will disappear quickly at the stores in case of bad weather so I kee it on hand. These stoves put out alot of heat for cooking. Same with the Coleman Lanterns. Two of them. I buy the AA type batteries by the large box...a 40 pack. I try to keep one to two forty packs on hand. I use them alot at work also in my Mag Lite. Sony walkmans use them alot. Rotate these battery packs ..as the shelf life comes up...and get new packs. Keep the kids out of them...till you are ready to rotate...kids use up alot of batterys without thinking. This is part of a survival stash..not just a convenience..for kids toys and gadgets. I keep several different types of radios on hand..mostly short wave type...with standard AM/FM but also the short wave bands..including single sideband. Radio Shack sells a nice little Grundig radio...which can run off of three AA type batteries but also has a chordless telephone type battery in it and a hand crank magneto to charge the batterys. It will run about a hour or so on a good handcrank charge. This is a handy little radio. I have purchased two of them. Another thing CX....those butane lighters...you see in the stores...by the Five or Ten packs...get some of them and put them away...they have no shelf life...on them. They are extreamly handy. Put away a magnifying glass too..several if you can. Magnifying glass or binoculars will do the same to start a fire if need be. But the lighters are cheap and will store for a long time. No reason not to keep them around. Believe it or not a sewing kit. Needles ..these are cheap too...thread or string will do in a pinch. YOu want the needles which are large and curved...for multiple uses..not just the small needles for standard sewing but the large curved ones. You may need these curved ones for sutures. People have little idea how quickly clothes wear out/break down..in abnormal conditions. Tools with which to sew is very handy thing to have around..costs little too...right now!!!! Put these away. Aspirin....too ..very cheap...easy to get right now...just rotate it ..out as the shelf life comes up. Petroleum Jelly ..cheap too. YOu are looking for books and information on how to build a survival cache. What to

put in it. Lots of books on this subject. This is where I learned of the butane lighters. Something most people take for granted and just filter out. Someone posted that water is a huge problem...they are correct ...this too is covered in some of these books. Thanks for your post, Orangetom

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reply posted on 12-5-2006 @ 09:20 AM by thelibra Multiple Replies... Originally posted by Violent ...but for an alternative with a higher load for greater penetration do you have any suggestions in light of your avoidance of 30-.06?

Yes, but it's very pricey. The Heckler & Koch PSG1 (7.62x51mm) is, IMO, the best a civvy can get. It's semi-auto, with the second shot arriving less than an inch from the first on a moving target. While weighing a hefty 18 lbs, every ounce of it is beautifully crafted for ease of use, reliability, and functionality (and also has a strap, thank god). It'll shoot under one minute of angle before mods, and is commonly used in counterterrorism situations because of it's incredible accuracy. However, you're also talking about a $5,000 weapon, so there's the rub. That's a helluva lot of money to me, but really not a lot if it's something you would be using on a regular basis. It'd be invaluable for hunting or fighting Nazis.

Originally posted by northwolf 1. Make sure you have a good back pack, preferably with external frame (75-95l) You may need to relocate and prehaps stay moving for days/weeks 2. a day pack is a good accesory in case you need to scout out or hunt at times (my backpack has a day pack attached to it) 3. A good knife is essential (not for fighting, but as a tool) my avatar shows mine.. 4. if you know how to handle explosives properly you might want to have a 0.5kg and few fuses (it makes fishing in emergency situation really easy and effective)

I completely forgot about these crucial items, though personally I'd save the explosives for something like moving a tree trunk out of the road, or alternately, blocking a road.

Originally posted by northwolf As for attacking an occupying force, hit for Signal units and tankers they will hurt them most, officers are harder to pick out these days

More good advice. I didn't even think about that. Even our own army in Iraq's biggest problem seemed to be getting Fuel from Point A to Point B. Of course, capture of a tanker would probably be optimal, but make for much larger risk. Originally posted by northwolf And remember if things get hot all you need to do is march out 90km in 48h and you'll be out of harms way

At my age, I'm lucky if I can march 48km in 90 hrs...

Originally posted by orangetom1999 By the way..if you ever get a generator..also get the equipment to secure it . a chain and lock.

That's something I didn't think of either. Good idea. Maybe even one of those steel cages for it would be a good idea. And if it's converted to biodiesel, you could pretty much have replentished fuel whenever you got enough biomass together to make it.

Originally posted by orangetom1999 I use them alot at work also in my Mag Lite.

Absolutley. Next to Coleman lanterns, Mag Lights are an essential light source. Durable, reliable, and in a pinch, a nice blugeon. My wife didn't understand how I could buy a $30 flashlight when they had some for $1.50, so I bought her a cheapPoS. Guess who's flashlight worked the moment we needed it? Originally posted by orangetom1999 Radio Shack sells a nice little Grundig radio...which can run off of three AA type batteries but also has a chordless telephone type battery in it and a hand crank magneto to charge the batterys. It will run about a hour or so on a good handcrank charge. This is a handy little radio. I have purchased two of them.

I want one. I'll go get one this weekend. Originally posted by orangetom1999 Another thing CX....those butane lighters...you see in the stores...by the Five or Ten packs...get some of them and put them away...they have no shelf life...on them. They are extreamly handy. Put away a magnifying glass too..several if you can. Magnifying glass or binoculars will do the same to start a fire if need be. But the lighters are cheap and will store for a long time. No reason not to keep them around.

Strike-anywhere matches are another good idea. Aside from their obvious use of starting a fire or lighting Coleman products a bit more gently than a lighter, the heads can be cut off and used to create an improvised rocket or explosive, and the sticks can be used as kindling. Girl Scout Juice (aka Lighter Fluid) is also pretty handy for getting fires lit in wet or windy areas, and some various odd jobs like cleaning tar off the hands. Originally posted by orangetom1999 Believe it or not a sewing kit. Needles ..these are cheap too...thread or string will do in a pinch. YOu want the needles which are large and curved...for multiple uses..not just the small needles for standard sewing but the large curved ones. You may need these curved ones for sutures. People have little idea how quickly clothes wear out/break down..in abnormal conditions. Tools with which to sew is very handy thing

to have around..costs little too...right now!!!! Put these away.

Would you believe I can sew better than my wife? Thank you Boy Scouts of America. Originally posted by orangetom1999 YOu are looking for books and information on how to build a survival cache. What to put in it. Lots of books on this subject. This is where I learned of the butane lighters. Something most people take for granted and just filter out.

The Boy Scout Handbook is an excellent, well-organized, and easy-to read source of information on how to deal with Situation X...the paper it's printed on is also pretty soft, for those who suddenly find themselves in the worst state of unpreparedness.

Bah... this 6000 char limit is really starting to tick me off... more in next post.

Bandanas... A must-have... Something else I forgot about. Buy a bulk-box of bandanas. Aside from my scout knife, bandanas were the single most-used item in my entire inventory. They have thousands of uses, things that you'd never even consider, but here's just a few things I've used bandanas for over my lifetime: Head/neck/face cover against sun. Mask against dust, gnats. Filtering dirt/bugs/etc from water. Sling for hurt limbs/Tournaquet/Bandage/Ties for splint. Kindling/Wind-Guard for fires Weapon (crude rock flail or sling). Patches for clothing. Improvised sock/glove/pads/sunglasses/bag. Food boiling/steaming. Rope. Flags. Bundling items together for ease of carry. Padding delicate items for travel.

Anyway, yeah, buy bandanas... lots of 'em.

http://www.counterpunch.org/norrell01082008.html

Land Seizures and Militarization in the Border Zone Apaches Defend Homeland from Homeland Security By BRENDA NORRELL
RIO GRANDE, Texas.

Apache land owners on the Rio Grande told Homeland Security to halt the seizure of their
"There are two kinds of people in this world, those who build walls and those who build bridges," said Enrique Madrid, Jumano Apache community member, land owner in Redford and archaeological steward for the Texas Historical Commission. "The wall in South Texas is militarization," Madrid said of the planned escalation of militarization with Border Patrol and soldiers. "They will be armed and shoot to kill." It was in Redford that a U.S. Marine shot and killed 18-year-old Esequiel Hernandez, herding his sheep near his home in 1997. "We had hoped he would be the last United States citizen and the last Native American to be killed by troops," Madrid said during a media conference call on January 7 with Apaches from Texas and Arizona. Dr. Eloisa Garcia Tamez, Lipan Apache professor living in the Lower Rio Grande, described how US officials attempted to pressure her into allowing them onto her private land to survey for the US/Mexico borderwall. When Tamez refused, she was told that she would be taken to court and her lands seized by eminent domain.

lands for the US/Mexico border wall on January 7, 2008. It was the same day that a 30-day notice from Homeland Security expired with the threat of land seizures by eminent domain to build the US/Mexico border wall.

"I have told them that it is not for sale and they cannot come onto my land." Tamez is among the land owners where the Department of Homeland Security plans to erect 70 miles of intermittent, double-layered fencing in the Rio Grande Valley. Tamez said the United States government wants access to all of her land, which is on both sides of a levee. "Then they will decide where to build the wall. It could be over my house." Tamez said that she may only have three acres, but it is all she has. Tamez' daughter Margo Tamez, poet and scholar, said, "We are not a people of walls. It is against our culture to have walls. The Earth and the River go together. We must be with the river. We must be with this land. We were born for this land." Margo Tamez said the United Nations Declaration on the Rights of Indigenous Peoples now guarantees the right of Indigenous Peoples to their traditional territories. Rosie Molano Blount, Chiricahua Apache from Del Ro said the Chiricahua Apache have proudly served in the United States military."We are proud to be Americans," Blount said, adding that the Chiricahua have always supported the United States government. Now, with the increasing harassment of people in the borderzone, Blount said the people have had enough. "Ya Basta! Enough is enough!" Blount said, repeating the phrase that became the battle cry of the Zapatistas in Mexico struggling for Indigenous Peoples' rights.

Blount said there needs to be dialogue concerning the issues at the border, but not forced militarization or a border wall. She also directed a comment at Homeland Security Secretary Michael Chertoff. "Don't come here and divide our families Chertoff. You believe this is the only way to do things." Michael Paul Hill, San Carlos Apache from Arizona, described how US border agents violated and molested his sacred items, including a sacred stone, Eagle feather and drum used in ceremonies while crossing the border. "They called me a foreigner." Hill described how Border Agents told him that he might "get away" with crossing the border in Nogales, Arizona, with ceremonial items that were not manhandled, but not in Texas. After participating in a an Apache ceremony in Mexico, when Hill andother Apaches reentered the United States, a SWAT team in full riot gear was waiting for them and interrogated them. "It was incredibly frightening," said Margo Tamez who was also there. She pointed out how the escalating militarization at the border is terrorizing people as they go about their lives, working, with their families and in their ceremonies. Isabel Garcia, cochair of Derechos Humanos in Tucson, Arizona, said,"Arizona has been a laboratory for the criminalizing of the border." Pointing out that the Arizona border is the ancestral homeland of the Tohono O'odham, she said, "These borders are where people have lived since time immemorial." Garcia described the climate of militarization and abuse by Border Patrol agents. Garcia pointed out that "cowboy" Border Agents ran over and killed18-year-old Tohono O'odham Bennett Patricio, Jr., while he was walking home in 2002. His mother, Angie Ramon, is still seeking justice for the death of her son. Garcia also described the deaths from dehydration and heat in the Sonoran Desert in southern Arizona, where failed border policies have pushed migrants walking to a better life into treacherous desert lands. "Two hundred and thirty-seven bodies were recovered in one year and most were on the tribal lands of the Tohono O'odham." Further, Homeland Security recently waived 22 federal laws to build the border wall in the San Pedro wilderness area in Arizona, she said. Attorney Peter Schey, director of the Center for Human Rights and Constitutional Law in Los Angeles, said America does not need a"Berlin Wall." Schey, renowned immigrant rights attorney, said Section 564 of the Homeland Security section of the Omnibus Appropriations Bill supersedes earlier legislation. Homeland Security is now required to have consultation with the communities. Schey said this means real consultation and real consideration of the community's input and data. Schey took his first action on behalf of Texas property owner Dr. Tamez on Monday, the same day that a 30day notice to Texas land owners expired with the threat of eminent domain land seizures looming. Schey informed Homeland Security Secretary Michael Chertoff to halt the impending seizures of private lands. Schey said Section 564 strikes provisions of the earlier Secure Fence Act and requires Homeland Security to consult with property owners like Dr. Tamez in order "to minimize the impact on the environment, culture, commerce, and quality of life" in areas considered for construction of the border fence. "Furthermore, we believe that the new statutory provisions invalidate the Draft Environmental Impact Statement for fence construction published on the Department's

behalf on November 16, 2007, pending completion of the required local consultations and other requirements as outlined in the Omnibus Bill," Schey told Chertoff in the letter. Meanwhile, Homeland Security declared that it will use the principle of eminent domain to take possession of land currently held by private ownership. DHS has also presented waivers requesting that the landowners grant DHS personnel access to their property for a twelve-month period in order to conduct surveys for the intended construction project. The property owners were informed that if they do not voluntarily allow the federal agents on their property, the U.S. government will file a law suit so that Homeland Security authorities can have unimpeded access to private land, despite the owners' opposition. Homeland Security has stated that it will seize property even without the consent of landowners if necessary to complete the construction of the border fence. Many landowners, as well as civic leaders and human rights activists, oppose the U.S. government's plans to allow federal law enforcement agents access to private property. The government's demands and aggressive tactics are in conflict with settled rights of private property ownership and are particularly disconcerting to the Indigenous peoples' communities impacted by this undertaking. The Texas communities along the international boundary zone are largely made up of Native Americans and of land grant heirs who have resided on inherited properties for hundreds of years. Homeland Security plans to complete the Texas portions of the fence before the end of the 2008 calendar year. Homeland Security has already built walls along much of the California and Arizona international boundary zone with Mexico despite opposition from the government of Mexico. Brenda Norrell is human rights editor for U.N. OBSERVER & International Report. She also runs the Censored website. She can be reached at: brendanorrell@gmail.com