Customer Newsletter for Textile Business Colour-Chem Limited

June 2005

Right First Time

A Focus on Reactive Dyeing
The need to improve productivity in industry is a major and global concern. In the Indian textile industry the emphasis is on improving the weakest link which is textile processing and since dyeing is the main component the emphasis is to aim for Right First Time production. Right First Time production refers to a batch at the end of a standard process that requires no re-working or adjustments since all properties (shade, tensile strength, dimensional stability) conform to the customers specifications. The old saying in the textile wet processing industry - well prepared - half dyed carries a lot of truth as a majority of the problems (almost 60%) that occur in dyeing have their origins in inadequate pretreatment. Therefore, before we start discussions regarding Dyeing with Reactive Dyes, we should also discuss about the preparation of material before dyeing which is generally neglected. We must ensure that the material is pretreated to eliminate all: spinning, weaving or knitting oils sizing waxes and natural paraffins earth alkaline metals present in the cotton pectins and various cellulosic substances in order to give it very good absorbency and good whiteness (which is depending on the brightness of the shade to be produced). The right choice of auxiliaries (wetting agents, sequestering agents desizing enzymes etc.) for each step of the preparation cannot be over emphasized and hence we will very briefly touch on these aspects.

Desizing
While sizing is a very important step to improve the strength of the yarn during weaving, it is important that the size be totally removed in the next step to ensure effectiveness of the other treatments. Enzymes work best, particularly when starch is the size used. Enzymes are specific in their action and do not attack the substrate. At Colour-Chem we have Biolase DZ Liquid to offer. This is a conventional bacterial alpha amylase which converts starch based products into dextrins which are easily removed by rinsing. They also assist in the removal of waxes oils and other synthetic sizing material.

Scouring
This process removes water insoluble materials such as oils, fats and waxes from textile fibres. The impurities can coat fibres and inhibit rapid wetting, absorbency and absorption of dye and chemical solutions. For example, in scouring of cotton, the presence of calcium and magnesium leads to insoluble salt deposition on the substrate leading to harsh feel and /or resist marks. In reactive dyeing, the presence of calcium could lead to precipitation of dyestuff resulting in dye spots and poor colour yield.

A good sequestering agent is therefore a must. Our Ladiquest 1097 is unbeatable. Colour-Chem also offers more economical products - Ladiquest DWA and Ladiquest 1098. The scouring process also softens and swells motes which facilitates their destruction during bleaching.

Figure 1

Mercerization
It is the treatment of cotton under tension with a strong Sodium hydroxide solution. This process improves many properties of the cotton fibres and helps reduce dyeing problems.

Dyeing with Reactive Dyes

Despite all the technical advances made in recent years, the exhaust dyeing method with reactive dyes very often leads to uncertain results at the level of the shade reproducibility, end-use fastness properties and overall levelness of the dyed substrates. The inconsistency of the results which are seen on dyeing with reactive dyes is bound up with their particular chemical structure. As compared with other fibres and other classes of dyes, here the dyeing process requires a considerable number of interventions along with a risk of error. To clearly understand the dyeing phenomena and set up a reliable and optimum process, it is necessary to refer to the dyeing curves (see Fig. 1). The behaviour of a reactive dye is defined by two curves that are plotted on a diagram. The ordinate is the quantity of dye that is absorbed or fixed, and the abscissa represents the time taken. The first curve corresponds to the amount of dye absorbed by the fibre, and the second, included in the graph. The analysis of these curves permits the determination of three critical zones within which the amount of dye absorbed or fixed per unit of time is difficult to control. These are three zones where the risks of poor levelness are appreciable. They provide evidence of the complexity of the phenomena involved, because if the final results are not good it is almost impossible to find out the exact cause. The resulting rate of fixation of the dyes is also closely related to the temperature of the bath reactivity of the dye force of the alkali used (pK)

Rinsing the dyed material

Rinsing Process: The dyed material is rinsed in order to eliminate two components which are very different in nature, namely the electrolyte and the hydrolysed dye. Their elimination takes place according to different mechanisms. The hydrolysed reactive dye still has a certain substantivity for the cellulose, while the salt has none. It disappears by progressively dissolving. The aim is to minimize the amount of hydrolysed dye present in the fibre at the end of the rinse. If the dye is a very substantive element, it will be necessary to increase the number of rinses in order to be able to soap the material under good conditions The washing-off properties of a reactive dye in hydrolysed form depend on numerous parameters, which can be grouped in two categories. 1. Parameters depending on the washing conditions hardness of the water used (it has a negative influence on the eliminability of dyes) temperature of the rinsing water (the temperature has a positive influence, because heating the rinsing water reduces the substantivity of the dye and its extraction from the fibre becomes very rapid and more appreciable)

Dyeing Procedure
Broadly it can be divided in to two parts

a) The substantive phase At the beginning of the first phase of the dyeing process, which is called the substantive phase, and under the influence of the electrolyte present, the reactive dyes group together in the form of aggregates, still soluble but exhibiting a greater affinity for the cellulose.
By regulating the size of these aggregates, Humectol C H/C enables them to be distributed uniformly over the surface of the fibre and then to diffuse and migrate. In doing so, this product acts both as a true levelling agent because it ensures the homogeneous distribution of the dye.

b) Fixation phase Here the bath pH is the factor to take into consideration, because it is the variation in the pH that triggers the fixation reaction of the dye with the cellulose. It is therefore necessary to carefully control this if it is desired to obtain perfect results. However, it must not be forgotten that the pH, or at least its variation, is not the only parameter to take into consideration.

quality of the bath/material contacts ease and time of draining the machine. 2. Parameters depending on the dye The washing-off properties, i.e. the ease with which a reactive dye is extracted from the fibre, is above all a function of its substantivity and diffusion power. Once again, a study of the dyeing curves is found to be very useful for being able to foresee with sufficient precision, the behaviour of the dye during rinsing. Attention must be directed to four parameters, namely: the amount of dye absorbed at the end of the substantive phase, the amount of dye absorbed at the end of the dyeing the slope of the substantive curve the amount of hydrolysed dye present in the fibre at the end of the dyeing process. Soaping the dyed material: The amount of dye residue must be as low as possible. A soaping bath that is too strongly coloured is not a good sign. If this is the case, it would be better to invest in an extra rinsing bath before soaping, because afterwards all baths given for this purpose will be practically useless. In order to eliminate completely the last residues of hydrolysed dye, it is necessary to use a specialty product such as Ladiquest 1097. This is an anionic polymer of high molecular weight, based on acrylic acid, partly neutralized and thanks to this product, the eliminated residues are not redeposited on the material.

Problems in dyeing and potential countermeasures Several problems such as unlevelness, suboptimal reproducibility, inadequate fastness, spots/marks and equipment related issues are encountered in dyeing processes these are compiled from various sources and discussed below. Problems...Reasons/Possible solutions

Deviation of Shade - Dye sensitivity to hydrolysis, reduction, electrolyte- select dyes carefully, control pH exactly; use Humectol C H/C - Dye sensitivity to metal ions in the dyebath; use suitable sequestering agent - use Ladiquest 1097 - Different dyeing programmes; pay attention to consistent dyeing conditions - Dye shows differences in standard conformity; check supplies - Unsuitable dye combination; pay attention to behaviour of individual elements - Avoid sedimentation of liquid dyes; stir before removal from container
Unevenness and patch dyeing - Improper pretreatement; ensure uniform absorption and whiteness of goods before dyeing Improper colour dissolution; adopt proper colour dissolution method Improper selection of reactive dyestuff without considering exhaustion, reactivity and substantivity of the dyestuffs; proper selection of dyestuff accordance with reactivity and substantivity A reactive colour can be highly exhaustive but if its reactivity is medium or lower; fixation will be poor and a lot of hydrolysed dyestuffs should be washed off. Otherwise unwashed dyestuff appear as patches. In other words if a colour is highly reactive but low in exhaustion, this would result in the colour reacting with the fabric even while in the process of absorption and at most favourable sites; use Ladiquest 1097/DWA Improper fixation; use Polyron SAR

DYEING PROBLEMS
Shade Variation
Variation in materials to liquor ratio on machine; use level indicators/controllers Improper storage and weighing of colours and chemicals; avoid storage of colours in open drums; ensure proper weighing of dyes/chemicals; use washable plastic sheets for supplying colours to the machines Variation in sequence of dyeing; display standard sequence charts in dyeing section Variation in chemical concentration; standardise the recipe and display charts Variation in temperature of machines; provide temperature indicators on each machine Improper fabric proparation; ensure perfectly neutral substrate ready for dyeing with instant absorbency and no residual peroxide Error in judgement of shade in 2nd and 3rd shifts due to improper lighting; check the samples in colour matching booths No continuous feeding of colour mainly to continuous dyeing range; provide level controllers Variation in the speed of continuous dyeing range; keep the speed of the dyeing range constant for sorts of similar construction Frequent stoppage of mercerising machine; avoid undue stoppage of mercerising machine

Post fixation treatment of dyeings If the dyeing conditions are difficult, the lack of water is extreme, the water hardness is too high or the selection of dyes used does not take account of their washing-off properties, it will be readily understood that the amount of hydrolysed dye still present in the fibre after soaping will be considerable and will justify a fixation treatment.
But also under normal production conditions, to improve the productivity of the dyehouse the dyer may decide to eliminate several rinsing baths to save water and gain time. In this case it will be necessary to post-fix the shade.

Poor wash fastness in reactive dyed fabric - Improper fixation of dyestuff; use high performance reactive dyes with sufficient quantity of alkali - Improper washing off of hydrolysed dyes; salt concentration during soaping should be <1g/l; soaping using Ladiquest 1097/DWA to be carried out which can be dispersed hydrolysed dyestuff and keep them in the wash bath, preventing their redeposition on the substrate. - Use of poor quality salt in dyeing and hard water for washing off; correct the

hardness of dyebath using Ladiquest 1097/DWA. Humectol C H/C helps in improving the solubility of dyestuff.

Change in tone after dye-fixation treatment

Dosage of dye fixtative concentration is in excess of actually required; use optimum quantity of dye fixative Improper choice of dye fixative; use Solidogen 4231/NDF

Dirt Spots - Contamination of the material by rust, oil, graphite, etc.; pay attention to clean machines and clean working methods Dimensional Stability (Shrinkage) - insufficient relaxation during pretreatment; adapt relaxation and setting to material in question; inadequate setting of material
lengthwise distortion caused by dyeing machine; adjust dyeing machine to material ratio

Handle - unfavourable conditions between machine and material; select optimum conditions - inadequate pretreatment (relaxation, setting); can be corrected during finishing - wrong dyeing programme (temperature/time) Two Sidedness (Thermosol problems) - deflecting roller touched on one side only; check entry of goods, if necessary replace roller - dark or pale selvedges (Thermosol problems) - one-sided liquor feed into the trough; check liquor feed - narrow goods impregnated on a wide padder; move to a suitable machine - worn rollers, rollers bend due to over compensation; check the nip pressure, reduce pressure if necessary, change rollers if necessary, chick hydraulics - varying drying conditions over the width of the goods; check the air jets and circulation Pale Points of Intersection - poor penetration; add a wetting agent to the padliquor change the pressure of the rollers; increase impregnation time - use Emigen DPR - severe migration; dry more slowly; use special migration inhibitors - use Solidokoll N

Unexpectedly Poor Wet and Rub Fastness

Thermomigration due to finishing and softening chemicals; adjust dye and chemical selection inadequate dye fixation due to too short dyeing time or too low fixation temperature; optimize dyeing process, reduction clear stained adjacent fibre improve dyeing process

Creasing - inadequate pretreatment (scouring, relaxation, setting); select optimum pretreatment conditions
due to quality of goods (structure, e.g. tightly woven fabric, weight); adjust dyeing machine to material, select correct setting temperature, adjust stenter correctly poor suitability of dyeing machine; select more suitable dyeing machine too heavy batch of fabric; add Humectol C/LBD incorrect loading of machine dyeing process (heating, cooling); adjust temperature programme, add a lubricant

Colour Specks
Precipitation of dyestuff during exhaust dyeing; ensure proper dyeing conditions depending on the class of dyestuff Improper dissolution of dyestuff by dissolving with insufficient amount of water; adopt proper colour dissolution methods. Use Humectol C H/C Incompatibility of dyestuffs used for producing combination shades; select proper dyestuffs depending upon their dyeing behaviour. Too high concentration of dyestuff in the padding bath; check the solubility limit of dyestuff before preparing the padding formulation Excessive foaming during padding; use silicone free anti foaming agents Dusting off of colours during colour preparation; dissolve colour in colour preparation room only -

Chaffe Marks - mechanical friction due to overloading; add Humectol C/LBD

rough patches in the machine; stationary material in the running machine (knots); too high machine speed

Spots and Marks (Precipitation in dyebath)

Dye precipitates due to poor dispersion or dyes with poor dispersion stability; pay special attention to dispersing instructions; pay attention to dye selection (dispersion stability); use dispersants dye crystallization due to variations in temperature in the dyebath; pay attention to perfect liquor circulation oligomers in the dyebath; drop dyebath hot, shorter dyeing - time, use special chemicals

Stitch Distortion (Knits) - inadequate pretreatment (relaxation, setting); select optimum pretreatment conditions
mechanical effects, e.g. passage of goods in machine, squint seams; straight seams along weft and stitches

Lustre - physical change in fibre due to local pressure and high temperature on material; avoid prolonged contact of stationary material with the hot machine Improper removal of caustic from the fabric

Foam Formation
dispersants in the dye; use antifoamers residues of boiling off agent; scour goods better before dyeing

The importance of RFT

One of the primary problems in Indian textile process houses is low RFT. Right First Time or RFT is an indicator of the level of precision and accuracy of the process so as to impart the desired quality to the fabric in the first instance of processing. For example, an RFT of 60% means that 40% of the production needs to be reprocessed to get the desired quality. It eliminates need for stripping, redyeing or reshading. Ideally, the stripping rate should be below 1%, redyeing below 2% and reshading below 5%. Any reprocessing means, More use of dyes and chemicals More use of water Loss of time and possibly deadlines Lesser production compared to production capacity More energy consumption More effluent discharge and pollution Higher effluent treatment costs Low competitiveness Low image in the global market

Colour-Chems Indispensable Products for Right First Time Dyeing

Ladiquest 1097
General purpose liquid sequestering agent with dispersing properties
Improves penetration and levelness of dyeings as well as their fastness properties through its dispersing and complexing action. Excellent dispersant/ washing off agent. Prevent staining of the ground Offers considerable advantages in reactive, vat sulphur, naphtol and indigo dyeing because it avoids deposits and binds heavy metals, thus preventing agglomerations as well as coagulations. Ideally suitable for application in circulation dyeing machines for cellulosic fibres and fibre blends with all dye classes. It prevents filtering off and protects against agglomerations of cotton accompanying substances and hardness formers. Protects goods , padders and washing machines from silicate deposits.

Humectol C H/C
Biodegradable, Low-Foaming, Crease Preventing, Wetting, Dispersing and Levelling Agent
1. WETTER Increased dye penetration a) For heavy weight fabrics in jets b) For compressed yarn in packages 2. LEVELLER Provides levelness for a) Reactive dyes b) Direct dyes c) Sulphur dyes d) Vat dyes 3. SOLUBILIZER The best solubilizer a) For reactive dyes in jets to prevent dye spots b) For reactive dyes in packages to prevent filtration c) To emulsify the dedusting oil 4. LUBRICANT In the presence of salts, Humectol C H/C becomes a lubricant, preventing crease marks in jet dyeing. 5. SOFTENER Fabric and yarn dyed with Humectol C H/C will have a distinct soft hand. 5. HUMECTANT Moisture Regainer a) Yarn dyed with Humectol C H/C will have better moisture regain during winding b) Fabric will compact better resulting in better cutting and sewing 7. EF-BIODEGRADABLE Live longer.

is lubricant wit h excellent wetting and leve lling properties . A more cost-eff ective alternative.

Humectol LBD Th

Also Available

Dye Fixing Agents

Solidogen 4231
Formaldehyde-free after treatment agent for improving the wet fastness properties of dyeings and prints produced with reactive/direct dyes on cellulosic fibres and their blends. Salient Features Formaldehyde free Does not impair light fastness as compared to conventional products No change in shade No adverse effect on handle Similar but with distinctly different merits to suit requirements of budget etc. are Solidogen 4951 and Solidogen FRZ.

Dyebath Conditioner
Ladiquest DWA
Excellent soaping agent
Addition of 1-3% in the dyebath prevents Ca and Mg ions from interfering with the dyeing, especially when using hard water. Removes loosely fixed and unfixed dye thus improving fastness.

New Introduction

Solidogen NDF - Dye Fixing Agent

- Eco-friendly, formaldehyde-free - Does not affect shade or handle - Improves wet fastness

For more details on products in this issue please contact Mr. Shekhar Singh at shekhar.singh@clariant.com
Compiled and published by Lygia DSouza, Manager - Marketing Communications on behalf of the Textile Chemicals Business, Colour-Chem Limited, Ravindra Annexe, 194 Churchgate Reclamation, Mumbai 400 020. Tel.: 91-22-2283 0882. Fax: 91-22-2287 4014. Also visit us at http://www.colour-chem.com