FACTS ABOUT LAUNDRY

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TYPES OF LAUNDRY PRODUCTS

Different types of laundering products exist to meet the needs and preferences of many different consumers. An understanding of the products and how they work will help a consumer select and use laundry products successfully.

Basic Laundry Products

This review of laundry products includes a discussion on the following:

Basic Laundry Products o Soaps o Detergents Detergent Ingredients Laundry Aids o Bleaches o Bluings o Detergent Boosters o Disinfectants o Enzyme Presoaks o Fabric Softeners o Prewash Soil and Stain Removers o Starches, Fabric Finishes, Sizings o Water Softeners General Information Environmental Considerations

SOAPS Soap for laundering has existed for centuries. The basic raw materials are fats/oils (tallow or coconut) and alkali (sodium or potassium hydroxide). Despite improvements made

over the years in the quality of the product and in the manufacturing process, all soaps continue to suffer from a major drawback. They combine with water hardness minerals to form a lime soap or soap curd (a sticky white or yellow residue that deposits on the washer and the fabrics in the wash load). This performance negative has led to the limited popularity of soaps; only a few brands are available. Today, there are two types of laundry soaps: Light Duty Powders Light duty powders are essentially pure soap with perfume and fluorescent whitening agents. They are designed for lightly soiled items and delicate fabrics. Because of their mildness, they are also used for laundering diapers and other baby clothes. Soap Bars Laundry soap bars were precursors of the chip and the powder forms. They are generally made from tallow or a combination of tallow and cocoa (coconut oil). Borax and builders, such as sodium silicate and sodium carbonate, are included to improve performance and help soften water. While a laundry soap bar is good for pretreating heavy soils and stains prior to laundering, a toilet bar could be used. Handwashing lingerie and hosiery are other uses for the laundry soap bar. DETERGENTS Detergents have essentially replaced soap for laundering, because they perform over a broad range of water hardness levels. Considerable diversity exists among laundry detergents. They are classified by their general purpose or light duty performance and are available in powder or liquid forms. General Purpose Powders

Suitable for all washable fabrics from heavily soiled work clothes to lightly soiled lingerie Some may be used for hand dish washing and household cleaning

Liquids

Used for general laundry purposes but are especially effective in handling oily soils Pretreating grease spots and stains prior to laundering is convenient and effective because of their form

A new category of detergents will soon be available for new high-efficiency horizontal

axis washers. These detergents will be specially formulated for use in low water volume. Light Duty Powders

For care of delicate washable fabrics and baby clothes Can be used in an automatic washer

Liquids

Most are designed for handwashing delicate or lightly soiled items such as hosiery and lingerie Can be used in an automatic washer following package directions Most hand dishwashing liquids can also be used for handwashing delicate or lightly soiled items. They should not be used in an automatic washer because of their high sudsing characteristics and because they do not contain corrosion inhibitors.

Combination Laundry Detergents Laundry detergents combined with a bleach alternative, color-safe bleach or fabric softener were developed to respond to consumer needs for easy-to-use, effective products and may eliminate the need to buy two products. The detergent/bleach combination products utilize new technology which has provided more effective, low-temperature bleaching systems in response to the lower wash temperatures used in today's washloads.

TYPES OF LAUNDRY PRODUCTS ... Continued Detergent Ingredients

Whatever their form or their sudsing characteristics, laundry detergents must perform the same basic functions, but diversity exists among laundry detergent formulas. They may contain similar ingredients, but each ingredient is in the formula at a specified amount for a particular purpose. SURFACTANT The surfactant or surface active agent is perhaps the most important ingredient present in every synthetic detergent formulation. The surfactant: 1) improves the wetting ability of water; 2) loosens and removes soil with the aid of wash action; 3) emulsifies, solubilizes or suspends soils in the wash solution. Surfactants are organic compounds consisting of two parts: a water-loving (hydrophilic) portion and a water-hating (hydrophobic) portion. The water-hating ends attach themselves to the soil particles present in or on the fabrics being washed, while the water-loving ends are attracted to the water. The surfactant

molecules surround the soil particles, break them up and force them away from the surface of the fabric, then suspend the soil particles in the wash water. Detergents may contain more than one kind of surfactant. These surfactants differ in their ability to remove certain types of soil, in their effectiveness on different fabrics and in their response to water hardness. Surfactants are classified by their ionic (electrical charge) properties in the water. The following major categories are used in laundry products: Anionic Surfactants Anionic surfactants are the most widely used. In water, their hydrophilic portion carries a negative charge, which can react in the wash water with the positively charged water hardness (calcium and magnesium) ions that tend to deactivate them. These surfactants are particularly effective at oily soil cleaning and clay soil suspension. But, to different degrees (depending on their chemical structure), they need help from other ingredients to prevent partial inactivation by water hardness ions. Nonionic Surfactants Nonionic surfactants do not ionize in solution. Lack of charge enables them to avoid water hardness deactivation. They are especially good at removing oily type soils by solubilization and emulsification. Nonionic surfactants are frequently used in some low sudsing detergent powders and in general purpose liquid detergents. Nonionics may be mixed with anionics in some powder or liquid detergents. Cationic Surfactants Cationic surfactants carry a positive charge in water and do not react with positively charged water hardness ions. Cationics are used in fabric softeners and in a few combination fabric-conditioning detergents. In a properly balanced combination with nonionics, detergency is achieved while depositing enough cationic surfactant on fabrics to produce softening and antistatic benefits. The surfactants in today's household laundry detergents manufactured for use throughout the United States are biodegradable and have been since mid-1965. BUILDER The builder is the second most important ingredient in a detergent formula because it enhances or "builds" the cleaning efficiency of the surfactant by inactivating water hardness minerals. Builders provide one or more of the following functions:

Soften water by tying up water hardness Help prevent water hardness ions from interacting with negatively charged surfactants so surfactants can concentrate on soil removal Increase the efficiency of the surfactant system

Most provide a desirable level of alkalinity, which aids cleaning Most disperse and suspend soils and prevent their redeposition

Builders are used in general purpose laundry powders and liquids but not in light duty detergents (powders or liquids). Most general purpose liquids contain builders such as citrate, but some are unbuilt. The unbuilt liquids use surfactants which are less hardness sensitive, instead of including a builder to minimize interactions with water hardness minerals. The general purpose liquids should not be confused with light duty liquids, which are designed primarily for washing dishes by hand. Builders soften water by sequestration, precipitation or ion exchange. Sequestering Builders Sequestering builders, such as polyphosphates, inactivate water hardness mineral ions and hold them tightly in solution. Another builder, citrate, while not as strong a sequestrant as phosphate, contributes to detergency performance in some types of heavy duty liquid detergents. Precipitating Builders A precipitating builder, such as sodium carbonate or sodium silicate, removes water hardness ions by a nonreversible reaction, forming an insoluble substance or precipitant. They are especially effective on calcium ions. Ion Exchange Builders An ion exchange builder, such as aluminosilicate (zeolite), is an insoluble material which ties up calcium hardness minerals. ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS Antiredeposition Agents Antiredeposition agents may be made from complex cellulosic materials such as carboxymethylcellulose (CMC), or synthetic materials such as polyethylene glycol and polyacrylates. They aid in preventing loosened soil from redepositing onto cleaned fabrics. Polyphosphate builders also help in reducing redeposition. Light duty liquids designed for hand dishwashing do not contain antiredeposition agents. Corrosion Inhibitor Corrosion inhibitor, usually sodium silicate, helps protect washer parts from corrosion. Light duty liquids designed for hand dishwashing do not contain corrosion inhibitors as they are not intended for use in a washing machine. Fluorescent Whitening Agents Fluorescent whitening agents (FWAs or brighteners) are complex organic molecules

which adhere to fabrics as though they were dyes. Ultraviolet energy is absorbed, converted and emitted as visible blue light to enhance fabric appearance and maintain whiteness or brightness. The light duty liquids designed for hand dishwashing do not contain FWAs. Processing Aids Processing aids cover a considerable list of ingredients such as sodium sulfate, water, solvents like alcohol, or xylene sulfonate. They provide the product with the right physical properties for its intended use. Sodium sulfate, for example, helps provide crisp, free-flowing powders. Alcohols are often used in liquid products where they serve as solvents for the detergent ingredients, adjust the viscosity and prevent product separation. Since the water content of liquids is fairly high, alcohols also provide protection to the product under extremely cold storage conditions by lowering the freezing point. Colorants Colorants are added to lend an individuality to the product or dramatize a special additive contributing to product performance. Additionally, blue colorants may provide a bluing which imparts a desirable blue/white color to white fabrics. Fragrances Fragrances provide three functions, regardless of the scent used. They cover the chemical odor of the detergent and the odor of soils in the washing solution. Plus, they impart a pleasant scent to fabrics, thus reinforcing the clean performance. Additionally, a fragrance contributes to the character of the product. Some detergents are offered in unscented versions, appealing to consumers who prefer low or no scent on laundry. They may also appeal to people whose skin is sensitive to fragrance ingredients. Opacifiers Opacifiers are used in some liquid products to provide a rich, creamy, opaque appearance. Oxygen Bleach Oxygen bleach provides the detergent with an all-fabric bleaching action for stain and soil removal. The most common agent used is sodium perborate tetrahydrate, but sodium percarbonate can be used. Recently, activated bleach systems have been introduced that provide effective fabric whitening at today's lower wash temperatures. Enzymes Enzymes aid in breaking down complex soils, especially proteins such as grass and blood, so that these soils can be more easily removed by other detergent ingredients. Suds Control Agents Suds control agents are used as suds stabilizers or suppressors. Suds stabilizers are limited to detergents, such as light duty products, where lasting, voluminous suds are

desirable. Suds suppressors inhibit sudsing or control it at a low level. Special long chain soaps are one class of compound used to control sudsing in powder and liquid laundry detergents. Fabric Softening Agents Fabric softening agents impart softness and control static electricity in fabrics. Cationic surfactants (e.g., quaternary ammonium compounds) are commonly used. Other Ingredients Other ingredients may be added to a laundry detergent system to provide specialized performance or convenience.

TYPES OF LAUNDRY PRODUCTS ... Continued Laundry Aids

Laundry aids are those products that help contribute to the effectiveness of laundry detergents and provide specialized performance. LAUNDRY BLEACHES Bleach is a popular laundry aid and helps detergents remove soils and stains. Through oxidization, laundry bleaches convert soil into more soluble, colorless or dispersible particles that can be removed by detergent and carried away in the wash water. The two general oxidizing types are sodium hypochlorite (also called chlorine or liquid household bleach) and oxygen. Sodium hypochlorite and oxygen bleaches should not be used together. The benefits of both are lost when combined. Color removers, considered reducing bleaches, are also products in the bleach category. Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach Liquid sodium hypochlorite bleach is the most widely used, although a dry form is also available. Liquid sodium hypochlorite bleach is made by combining chlorine with a solution of sodium hydroxide to produce sodium hypochlorite, sodium chloride and water. The sodium chloride is a by-product of the chemical reaction and remains in the solution as an inactive ingredient. When liquid sodium hypochlorite bleach is added to the wash, sodium hypochlorite reacts with the soil and organic matter. As a result, liquid household bleach: 1) Oxidizes soil and aids in its removal 2) Acts as a disinfectant on both bacteria and viruses likely to be encountered in the home 3) Generally whitens fabrics

The bleaching action of sodium hypochlorite is essentially completed in about 5 minutes, even less time in hot water, but slightly longer in cold. The dry version performs like liquid sodium hypochlorite bleach when dissolved in water. How to Use Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach: Read and follow bleach package directions. Use a standard measuring cup and measure the recommended amount. For best results, dilute bleach with a quart (0.95 L) of water and add about 5 minutes after the wash cycle has begun. Applying undiluted bleach directly to fabrics may result in color removal and/or weakening of the fabric. Adding bleach at the beginning of the wash cycle with the detergent destroys some detergent ingredients (FWAs, enzymes). This reduces the effectiveness of both detergent and bleach. Adding bleach after 5 to 6 minutes allows the FWAs to attach to fabrics, the enzymes to work on soils and the bleach to have maximum effectiveness. For washers with dispensers where bleach is automatically dispensed and diluted, follow the manufacturer's instructions. Sodium hypochlorite bleach can be used on all washable colorfast natural fibers (cotton, linen) except protein fibers like wool, silk and mohair. It is also safe on all washable synthetic and permanent press fabrics, except spandex. Sodium hypochlorite bleach is safe for most (70 to 80%) colored washable fabrics. To determine if a color is bleach safe, apply one drop of a test solution made from 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of bleach in 1/4 cup (60 ml) of water to an inconspicuous part of the fabric or garment, such as a seam allowance. Be sure the solution penetrates the fabric. Let stand for 1 minute and blot dry with a paper towel. If there is no color change, the article can be safely bleached. Be sure to test decorative trim Oxygen Bleach (all-fabric bleach) Oxygen bleaches are available in both a dry and liquid form. All dry oxygen bleaches contain inorganic peroxygen compounds, such as sodium perborate tetrahydrate and sodium percarbonate. When dissolved, the inorganic peroxygen compounds convert to hydrogen peroxide (the oxidizing agent) and the residue of the compound (e.g., sodium borate or carbonate). Liquid oxygen bleaches contain hydrogen peroxide, which supplies the oxidizing agent directly. The hydrogen peroxide reacts with the soil and organic materials in the wash to either decolorize or break them up. Hydrogen peroxide provides a more gentle bleaching action than sodium hypochlorite used in chlorine bleaches. Water temperature affects the bleaching rate of oxygen bleaches. Hot water accelerates the bleaching action. As water temperature decreases below 130 degrees F, exposure time must be increased substantially.

Powdered oxygen bleaches also contain a builder, usually sodium carbonate, which provides additional alkalinity and allows the perborate to function more effectively as a bleach. Other ingredients _ such as surfactants, brighteners, bluing agents and fragrance _ can be incorporated into both liquid and powdered formulations. Enzymes are used in powdered bleaches. How to Use Oxygen Bleach: Read and follow bleach package directions. Use a standard measuring spoon or cup and measure the recommended amount. Add oxygen bleach to the wash water before clothes are added. Do not pour oxygen bleaches directly on wet colored fabrics without testing for colorfastness first. Oxygen bleach is safe for most colored washable fabrics. However, if the care label states "No Bleach," do not use any bleach _ not even an oxygen bleach. To determine if a color is bleach safe, mix 1 teaspoon (5 ml) dry oxygen bleach to 1 cup (240 ml) hot water or follow instructions on the package. Place a few drops of test solution or undiluted liquid oxygen bleach on an inconspicuous portion of fabric for the time designated on the package. If color does not bleed or there is no color change, oxygen bleach may be used. Color Removers Color removers, available as a packaged product, contain sodium hydrosulfite, sodium carbonate and sodium metasilicate. They have the ability to remove most colors, but some dyes, especially prints, cannot be removed. In most cases, color will be reduced or removed enough to permit redyeing to another color. Color removers also help to whiten dingy colors and to remove brown (rust) stains from clothes washed in water that contains iron and manganese. They can also help to remove transferred dye stains from whites washed with colored items. They can be used in the washer or in a stainless steel or enamel container on the range top. Read and follow package directions.

TYPES OF LAUNDRY PRODUCTS ... Continued Laundry Aids ... Continued

BLUINGS Laundry bluings, available in liquid form, are designed to counteract the natural yellowing of many fabrics. The products contain a blue pigment, usually ultramarine blue. The bluing should be diluted with water prior to being added to the washer at the start of the wash or in the final rinse. DETERGENT BOOSTERS Boosters, available in powder or liquid form, are designed to reinforce specific

performance characteristics desirable in laundering. They should be used in the wash in addition to the recommended amount of detergent. Liquid boosters can also be used for pretreating stains. Typical ingredients used in boosters are: surfactants, builders, borax, enzymes, corrosion inhibitors and fluorescent brighteners. These ingredients are incorporated in widely divergent ratios depending on the objectives of the given product. DISINFECTANTS Disinfectants, available in liquid form, are occasionally used as laundry additives. These products contain germicides, usually selected from the group including pine oil, phenolics and coal tar derivatives. In contrast to other laundry aids, only a few disinfectants contain synthetic detergents while most contain significant quantities of soap to provide added detergency. Additionally, isopropyl alcohol or other solvents and small quantities of EDTA (ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid) for inactivating trace metals may be present. ENZYME PRESOAKS Enzyme presoak products are used for soaking the laundry prior to washing to remove many difficult stains and soils, especially the proteinaceous ones (e.g., egg, blood, grass, etc.). They can also be used as a booster in the wash in addition to the recommended amount of detergent. These powder products contain combinations of enzymes, builders, surfactants, fluorescent brighteners, bluing agents, fragrance and/or possibly an oxygen bleach. FABRIC SOFTENERS Fabric softeners impart softness and/or fluffiness to washable fabrics. They also make fabrics feel smooth, decrease static cling, impart a pleasing fragrance, reduce drying time, reduce wrinkling and make ironing easier. Used as directed, they are safe for all washable fabrics. The most common active ingredients in these products are based on long chain fatty type molecules called quaternary ammonium compounds, which are cationic in nature. The molecules usually contain at least one hydrophobic (water-hating) group, such as a long hydrocarbon chain, and a positively charged nitrogen atom, which is attracted to the negatively charged fabric surface. A loose ionic bonding results and softener compounds are adsorbed onto fabric surfaces. Fabric softeners are designed for addition to the rinse or drying cycle. Rinse-added Fabric Softeners These liquid products must be used in the final rinse of the washer cycle to avoid adverse interactions with detergent ingredients. They are available in:

Concentrated form with recommended usage of 1 to 3 ounces (30 to 90 ml) per wash depending on load size Diluted form with 1/3 to 1/2 cup (80 to 120 ml) per wash

All rinse-added fabric softeners should be diluted and added directly to the rinse water. Avoid pouring fabric softener directly on fabrics as staining can occur. When using an automatic dispenser, always dilute the fabric softener with at least an equal amount of water (or follow the washer manufacturer's instructions) to avoid clogging the fabric softener dispenser. No other products, such as bluing or water softener, should be used in the rinse with fabric softener. Other laundry aids may interfere or react with the softener. Dryer-added Fabric Softeners Dryer-added fabric softeners are designed to be added to a load of clothes in the dryer. These softeners usually contain essentially the same types of cationic compounds as the washer-added liquids, with minor differences to ensure compatibility with the clothes dryer. For example, the cationics are usually alkyl sulfate salts instead of chloride salts. They may also contain long chain fatty based hydrocarbon nonionic molecules. These nonionics have no positive charge but are effective in the dryer where deposition depends mostly on physical contact. There are two types of dryer-added fabric softeners: Sheets: With the sheet-type, fabric softener ingredients are carried on a nonwoven sheet of synthetic fabric or a polyurethane foam. As the clothes tumble with the sheet-type fabric softener, the heat of the dryer helps to transfer the softener to the clothes. Packets: A packet-type fabric softener is attached to a fin of the dryer drum. The heat of the dryer activates the product. During the tumbling process, the product is dispensed onto articles being dried. PREWASH SOIL AND STAIN REMOVERS Prewash soil and stain removers are products used to pretreat heavily soiled and stained areas. Their performance on oil-based stains on polyester fibers is particularly effective. Prewash stain removers are available in pump spray, liquid, gel, stick or aerosol forms. They may contain surfactants and hydrotropes. Aerosols may contain solvents, such as petroleum distillates. The solvents penetrate the fibers and help break up/dissolve the grease and oil stains, while the surfactant helps disperse the solvent/grease mixture during the wash. STARCHES, FABRIC FINISHES, SIZINGS These products add a finishing touch to the laundering process. They supply body to fabrics, enhance soil resistance, facilitate soil removal in the next wash and make ironing easier. Starch, available in dry, liquid or spray forms, is most effective on cotton or cotton-blend fabrics. Starch ingredients include modified cornstarches. The dry and liquid types,

requiring mixing with either hot or cold water, can be used in the washer for large starching jobs or used in a basin for a few articles. The spray types are convenient for use when ironing or for quick touch up pressing on collars, cuffs and trims. Fabric finishes and sizings are formulated especially for synthetic fabrics or blended fabrics with a high synthetic content. Available in spray form, they are usually based on sodium carboxymethylcellulose. Silicones may also be present for ease in ironing to reduce sole plate build up. Borax may be added to reduce scorching. WATER SOFTENERS The primary function of a water softener is to soften water. A water softener also provides alkalinity, which enhances detergent cleaning. There are packaged products and mechanical water softeners. Packaged Water Softeners Softeners soften water by removing or inactivating calcium and magnesium ions present in hard water. There are two types in dry form: Nonprecipitating: Nonprecipitating water softeners usually contain phosphates. They soften water by sequestering hardness minerals and holding them in solution. No visible solid particles form and the water remains clear. For best results, follow the package directions. Precipitating: Precipitating water softeners may contain sodium carbonate or sodium sesquicarbonate. They soften the water by combining with hardness minerals to form a visible, insoluble solid, thus the water looks cloudy. This precipitate can cling to fabrics or washer parts leaving a visible chalky deposit. For best results, follow package directions. Mechanical Water Softeners Mechanical water softeners are an effective and practical solution in areas where water is very hard. This equipment, installed in the home, utilizes ion exchange resins to remove calcium and magnesium hardness ions. This is accomplished by exchanging calcium and magnesium for sodium ions from the ion exchange resins.

TYPES OF LAUNDRY PRODUCTS ... Continued General Information

A listing of ingredients is included by some manufacturers on laundry product packages. In some instances, the generic names of the types of ingredients and their functions in the product are listed. Read and follow package directions carefully. In addition to ingredient listings, laundry product packages may contain other valuable information, such as:

How to use the product How much to use What fabrics and/or surfaces to use it on Phosphorus content Net weight or volume Caution statement and emergency treatment information Storage information Manufacturer and address or toll-free number to obtain help with questions or problems relating to the product

Do Not Mix Household Cleaning Products! Some household cleaning products, which are useful and safe when used alone, can be dangerous when they are combined. Never mix two or more substances such as bleaching solutions, ammonia, rust removers or other household cleaning products, unless specifically instructed to do so on the package. Some chemical mixtures may release irritating gases. Care of Laundry Products is needed to preserve the effectiveness and maintain the life of a product. Follow these steps:

Open packages according to directions. Reclose packages after each use to preserve the product, prevent spillage and minimize moisture pickup in powder products. Store all products in a cool, dry place and out of the reach of small children. Keep products in their original packages. Do not reuse empty containers.

Shelf Life of Laundry Products Generally, laundry products do not have a limited shelf life. Some powder products may pick up moisture from the atmosphere. While this could delay their dissolving performance, once in solution they still perform their functions. Determining the Amount of Detergent to Use The instructions on detergent packages recommend the amount of detergent to use for optimum cleaning results. These recommendations are based on an "average" wash load. However, conditions may vary from home to home or even between wash loads within the same home. The amount of detergent used may need to be adjusted based on some of the following variables:

Kind of soil... Sand and dust may be easier to remove than heavy grease. Amount of soil... Heavily soiled items may need more detergent than lightly soiled items.

Size of load... Smaller loads may require less detergent, larger loads may require more detergent. Water conditions... Hard water may require more detergent than soft water. Temperature of water, hot or cold, may also affect the amount of detergent needed. Water volume... Compact or small size washers use less water than larger size models, and top loading washers use more water than front loaders or new high-efficiency washers. The amount of detergent may vary with the design of the washer. Check the washer manufacturer's instructions for the recommended amount of detergent to use for each model.

Individual standards and expectations must also be considered. Consumers must use judgment in adjusting the recommended product usage to their specific needs.

TYPES OF LAUNDRY PRODUCTS ... Continued Environmental Considerations

Product Ingredients Biodegradability is an important consideration for product ingredients that are organic, like soap and surfactants. The surfactant makes up the largest percentage of the organic compounds found in household laundry products, and surfactants used in these products are biodegradable, Biodegredation occurs during sewage treatment as bacteria break down the surfactants. This reduces the amount of surfactant discharged to the environment to levels that are not toxic to fish and other aquatic life. The small amounts of chemicals not biodegraded or removed during sewage treatment are diluted in surface waters, soil and the ocean. They continue to biodegrade and to be removed from waters by adsorption to solids. Other organic compounds found in smaller quantities may be removed in sewage treatment plants or septic tank-tile field systems by biodegradation or adsorption. These organic compounds are then discharged to the environment at levels that are compatible with aquatic life. Biodegradability is not a consideration for inorganic ingredients such as washing soda. Such ingredients are already in their natural state. Product Packaging The issue of solid waste is an ongoing concern to individuals and manufacturers alike. Soap and detergent manufacturers have reduced the impact of product packaging on the solid waste stream, and decreased the amount of energy and natural resources used in manufacturing and transportation. These source reduction efforts have included:

Formulating concentrated liqid and powder laundry products. Concentrated products use less packaging. Offering refill systems for liquid and powder laundry products. Refill containers use less packaging material than primary containers. Lightweighting plastic bottles to use less plastic but remain just as strong. Using recycled plastic to manufacture all or part of plastic packages. This reduces the amount of virgin plastic required and provides a market for recycled plastic. Using recycled paper for cartons made from paper. This reduces the amount of wood fiber used and provides a market for recycled paper,

Technology is constantly changing and improving. Manufacturers will continue to apply the latest technologies to assure product ingredients and packaging are environmentally sound. Disposal Household laundry products are formulated to go "down the drain" and to be treated in sewage treatment or septic tank-tile field systems. Products that require special handling in disposal will list proper disposal procedures on the label. Most household laundry products can safely be disposed of down the drain (flushing with water) or in the trash and pose no threat of hazard in landfills. Good rules to follow for proper disposal of household laundry products are:

Use up the product or give unused portions to a friend or neighbor - or Dispose of unused portions "down the drain" or in the manner suggested on the package

When disposing of empty containers, check with your local recycling coordinator to see what type of plastic, paperboard and metal containers they accept.

BASIC LAUNDERING PROCEDURES

Laundering sounds as though it couldn't be simpler, especially with today's "easy care" fabrics, automatic appliances and sophisticated laundry products. Care labels on garments should provide adequate instructions on refurbishing the items. Yet there are some techniques, some "tricks of the trade," that can make a definite difference in the wear-life of washables. They are worth learning, both from an economic and an esthetic standpoint. There are basically six steps: sorting into loads, preparing clothes for washing, choosing laundry products, washing, drying and sometimes ironing. They all deserve attention and require some know-how for good results. SORTING INTO WASHER LOADS

Sensible sorting involves more than just making sure a noncolorfast item doesn't get mixed with a white load. It means combining items of similar color, construction and soil level; in other words, items that are compatible with each other and with the washing procedure selected. Even small loads should be sorted, though it may take a while to accumulate enough in each category to make running the washer worthwhile. Sort by Color... First and most importantly, sorting should be by color. Separate:

White or white-background prints that are colorfast Colorfast pastels in solids and prints Medium and bright colors, both solids and prints Dark colors

Loads of the second and third type can be combined if there is no doubt of colorfastness. Colorfastness is the resistance of a material to change any of its color characteristics, to transfer its colorant(s) to adjacent materials, or both, as a result of washing. Check the care label. If it says "wash separately," this indicates that an item will lose color for at least the first several washings. If there is any doubt, wash separately or only with like colors at least the first few times. Note whether any color bleeds into the wash water. Even trace amounts of dye in the water can transfer to other fabrics, particularly white and light colored nylon. Sort by Construction and Fabric Type ... From any of the loads, separate loosely knit or woven fabrics, sheers and "finely" made garments with delicate trimmings, narrow seam allowances or unfinished seams that will fray. These all require a shorter wash time and/or gentler agitation. Also separate from any load the heavy lint-producers, such as chenille robes or spreads, new towels or flannel pajamas and fuzzy sweatsuits. Wash them together if color permits, or wash separately. Sort by Amount and Kind of Soil ... Keep heavily soiled or greasy items separate for washing. When heavily soiled pieces are washed with lightly soiled ones, the latter may pick up soil from the wash water. Whites may take on a grey or yellow cast; colors may become dull. Extra work may be needed to get whites white and colors bright again. Sort by Size... Try to mix large and small items in each machine load for better washing action. A typical mix for a regular capacity washer might include one or two sheets (twin or full

size), several pillowcases, two to four shirts and blouses, with the balance of the load made up of underwear and other small items. Wash large items (blankets, bedspreads, rugs, mattress pads, etc.) separately, adding a few towels if necessary to balance the load for proper spinning action. Generally, two twin-sized bedspreads or blankets can be washed together, but be sure that the bulk does not overload the washer above the recommended level. PREPARING CLOTHES FOR WASHING Take a minute before loading each item into the washer to:

Close zippers and other fasteners to prevent snagging. Tie strings and sashes loosely to avoid tangling. Empty pockets. Brush dirt and lint out of cuffs. Remove unwashable belts, trimmings, ornaments and pins. Mend rips and tears. Treat spots, stains and heavily soiled areas (see Stain Removal Chart).

CHOOSING AND ADDING LAUNDRY PRODUCTS Detergent is the primary dirt remover, and there are different types available. The choice is a matter of personal preference and individual needs. Detergents differ in formulation and in characteristics such as sudsing, density and level of scent. For this reason, recommendations for use may vary from product to product. Whatever the type or brand, it is important to read and follow label directions to achieve the best results. Measure the recommended amount by using a standard measuring cup, scoop, specially designed bottlecap or a device provided with the detergent. The amount necessary for good soil removal will vary with the load size, soil conditions, hardness of water and the water volume of the washer. Label instructions are based generally on the following conditions:

A 5 to 7 pound (2.3 to 3.2 K) load of clothes Moderate soil Moderately hard water (3.6 to 7.0 grains per gallon or 61 to 120 parts per million or milligrams per liter) Average water volume (17 gallons (64 L) in a top loading washer, or 4-8 gallons in a high-efficiency front loader).

More than the recommended amount may be needed for larger loads, heavy soil, harder water or larger capacity washers. Slightly less than the recommended amount can be used in soft water or for lightly soiled loads. But too much reduction in the detergent "dosage"

will result in poor soil removal and possible redeposition of soil on clothes. Measuring is the only way to use a detergent both effectively and economically. The following chart defines the levels of water hardness generally accepted as "soft," "hard," etc., and can serve as a guide as to whether the manufacturer's use recommendations (based on moderate hardness) should be increased or decreased.
Soft Moderately Hard Very Hard

Hard Grains per gallon 0.0 to 3.5 3.6 to 7.0 Parts per million or milligrams per liter 0.0 to 60 61 to 120

7.1 to 10.5 10.6 _ 121 to 180 More than 180

Other laundry products such as bleaches, detergent boosters, water softeners and conditioners, fabric softeners, etc., assist in turning out good results and help solve special problems. Follow their label directions. WASHING IN AN AUTOMATIC WASHER Since the majority of U.S. households own or use top-loading automatic laundry equipment, the following information and suggestions refer primarily to these appliances. They can, however, be adapted to nonautomatic washers. For washing in a highefficiency washer, follow the machine manufacturer's instructions. Whatever brand or type of top-loading washer is used, the instruction book is the best guide to specific features and performance characteristics. It provides important how-tooperate information, care requirements and, in addition, much good laundering advice. Loading the washer ... First, put the measured amount of detergent and additives such as detergent booster or water softener in the washer tub, following manufacturer's instructions. Then, add clothes and start the washer. Check the washer instruction book for a recommended maximum or optimum load weight and/or a list of items that might be included in a sample load. Use this as a guide. Remember that bulk counts more than weight. Fill the tub loosely so that clothes have room to move freely, and mix items of different sizes. Don't wind large items around the agitator or the tub; they will become tangled. Setting the controls ... Most automatic washers provide a choice of water levels, wash and rinse temperatures, washing actions and time.

Set water level control to match the load size. For smaller loads, check during washing to be sure there's enough water to provide good action. If not, reset water level control to a higher setting and add more detergent.

Wash water temperature selections are generally "hot," "warm" and "cold." The "hot" setting temperature is that of the house hot water supply when it reaches the washer. The "warm" setting is a 50/50 or a 40/60 hot and cold water mix and will vary with the temperatures of incoming hot and cold water. The "cold" setting, of course, is determined by the incoming supply and can vary from near freezing in some areas in the winter to around 80 degrees F (27 degrees C) in the summer. The choice of hot, warm or cold water for a given load depends largely on the amount and kind of soil, type of fabric and fabric colorfastness. The following will serve as a guide: Hot 130 degrees F (54.4 degrees C) or above. White and colorfast fabrics, heavily soiled loads and diapers. Warm 90 degrees F to 110 degrees F (32.2 degrees C to 43.3 degrees C). Noncolorfast fabrics, moderately soiled loads, man-made fibers and permanent press fabrics* knits, silks and woolens. Cold 80 degrees F (26.7 degrees C) or colder. Dark or bright colors that bleed, lightly soiled loads

Rinse water temperature selections are generally "warm" and "cold." It is not necessary to use warm water for rinsing any loads. A cold rinse is adequate, saves energy and is preferred for permanent press fabrics to reduce wrinkling. Washing action may be controlled by the cycle selection ("regular," "delicate," "permanent press," etc.) and/or by wash speed selection ("regular" or "gentle"). Normal or regular agitation is the choice for all but delicate items such as lingerie, rayon fabrics, loose knits, hand washables, blankets and washable woolens. A permanent press cycle usually has normal agitation, but also includes a cool-down rinse before or during the first spin to minimize wrinkling. Wash time can be selected from as short as 1 to 2 minutes to as long as 18 minutes, depending on the brand of washer. Choice will also depend on the degree of soil and the construction of fabrics. Check washer manufacturer's instruction book for suggested times. Spin speed may be selected on some washers to provide a "regular" and a "slow" or "gentle" spin. On single speed washers, spinning time may be shortened to minimize wrinkling. Regular spin speed removes most of the water and therefore shortens drying time. A slow or short spin should be used for permanent press garments. Washable woolens should be given regular spinning after a gentle wash. DRYING IN AN AUTOMATIC DRYER Generally, items that are washed together in a load can be dried together. Shake

the damp pieces to loosen them before putting into the dryer. Set aside items you prefer to line dry. Set controls for "regular" if most of the load is made up of all-cotton fabrics... for "permanent press" if the load contains man-made fibers or permanent press fabrics. The permanent press cycle provides a cool down period at the end and some dryers keep tumbling after the dry period to minimize wrinkling. If the controls require a setting of "minutes" instead of having an "automatic dry" setting, be careful not to overdry, as this encourages shrinkage and wrinkling. Check dryer instruction book for additional recommendations. To avoid unnecessary wrinkling and make handling easier, it is always best to remove items from the dryer as soon as it shuts off. Be sure to clean the lint filter after each use. IRONING Many items may not require any ironing. They can be smoothed out, folded or hung up and put away. In some instances, the appearance of the item is improved simply by touch-up ironing. Other items, like damask tablecloths, require thorough ironing to look their best. Steam ironing helps prevent heat damage to fabrics and generally makes ironing easier. Sort items that need to be ironed according to the amount of heat needed. Silks and synthetics should be ironed at low temperature settings. Cottons and linens require higher temperatures. For best results, refer to control settings on the iron. Smaller areas such as collars, cuffs and sleeves should be ironed first, and larger areas last, to keep wrinkling at a minimum. There are laundry products available to restore body to fabric and improve its appearance. See "Types of Laundry Products" for detailed information about starches, sizings and fabric finishes.
*

If heavily soiled, sturdy man-made fibers and permanent press fabrics can be washed in hot water using a permanent press cycle.

ENERGY MANAGEMENT IN HOME LAUNDERING

The rising cost of energy is one of the most critical external factors affecting home laundering today. Successful laundering requires three forms of energy in the right balance to remove soil from fabrics.

Thermal energy supplied by hot or warm water. Mechanical energy supplied by the washer's washing action. Chemical energy supplied by the detergent and other laundry additives. As energy is reduced in any one of the three energy forms, another energy input must be increased. This is necessary to restore a balance to the total washing system in order to achieve the same level of laundering performance. Considering all the energy used for laundering, the amount to heat water is much higher than that used to operate either the washer or dryer. Therefore, it may be desirable, from a cost point of view, to reduce water temperature. If thermal energy (water temperature) is reduced, chemical energy (laundry product) should be increased by adding more detergent. It should be pointed out that the colder the water, the more difficult it is to accomplish cleaning. The effectiveness of laundry products is reduced as water temperature decreases. The performance of all laundry products is seriously diminished if they are used in the extremely low temperature range, below 60 degrees F (15.6 degrees C). Hot water 130 degrees F (54.4 degrees C) or above should be used for heavily soiled loads, diapers, or if there is illness in the family. Other loads normally washed in hot water may be washed in warm, or those washed in warm may be washed in cold. Some consumers may be satisfied with results at lower temperatures, others will not. Each person is the final judge. When using lower temperatures for washing, follow the instructions provided on the detergent package. Soap products and powder laundry detergents should always be added to the washer before the clothes and especially when using cooler water. Alternatively, these products may be predissolved in warm or hot water before adding to the washer. Washing at lower temperatures in hard water with powder detergents may increase problems of residue on fabrics and washers. A liquid laundry detergent or a nonprecipitating water softener used with a powder detergent may help to overcome these problems. In addition, other variables besides water temperature and water hardness must also be considered. They include the amount and kind of soil, type of fabric and the amount and kind of detergent. Other ways to utilize energy effectively and still achieve satisfactory results:

Read and follow directions carefully for all laundry products. Start with the recommended amount of detergent. Use more in hard water, for larger loads or for heavily soiled clothes. Pretreat or presoak stains and heavy soils prior to washing. Choose a wash time and cycle suitable for the type of load. Wash a full load but don't overload washer. Overloading limits the cleaning action of the washer. Match the water level to the load size. For example, with a smaller load use a lower water level setting.

If the washer has a water return system, reuse the wash water for additional loads. Start with the most lightly soiled items first and the recommended amount of detergent. Add more detergent for each additional load. Rinse all loads in cold water. Use a high spin speed for highly absorbent items to help reduce drying time. Separate lightweight and heavyweight items for faster and more uniform drying. Dry full loads. Small loads waste energy. Don't overload the dryer. The load should tumble freely for fast, wrinkle-free drying. Don't add wet items to a partially dried load. Don't overdry. Besides wasting energy, overdrying can give a harsh feel to some items and produce shrinkage in others. When possible, reload the dryer while it is still warm from a previous load. This utilizes the residual heat. Don't let garments remain in the dryer after it has shut off. This can cause wrinkling, especially in permanent press articles, making ironing necessary. Clean the dryer's lint screen after each load. A lint build up can increase drying time by limiting air flow.

REMOVING STAINS FROM WASHABLE ITEMS

Garments can become unwearable long before they wear out if spots and stains are not treated properly and promptly. Many stains will come out in the wash, especially if good laundering techniques are used. Some stains, however, are more complex than others and require special treatment. Treat them as soon as possible. When items remain in a hamper for days, stains become much more difficult to remove. Some stains may even be impossible to remove. SOME GENERAL RULES

Try to find out what the stain is, since some can be set by the wrong treatment. When in doubt, rinse or soak in cold water before laundering or applying a stain remover. Check colorfastness of item. If unsure whether a treatment will harm the fabric or color, apply the recommended stain remover to a hidden part or a sample of the fabric, such as a clipping from the seam allowance. Rinse out and let dry. If the color or fabric is not damaged, proceed with the treatment. When using any bleach, treat the entire item. This will prevent uneven color change, should any occur. When removing stains such as lipstick, candle wax or tar, place the stain face down on paper towels and treat from the underside to avoid driving the stain through the fabric. Always launder washable items after treating to remove residues of both the stain and the stain remover.

HOW TO REMOVE STAINS Basically, the following three procedures can be used to deal with stains prior to laundering. The choice depends primarily on the kind and extent of staining. Soaking Whether done in a basin, laundry sink or washer, soaking can effectively loosen heavy soils. A product containing enzymes can be helpful in removing protein-based stains. A laundry presoak, detergent and/or an appropriate laundry additive should be mixed in water or added before the clothes. When there's a quantity of items to treat, the washer is handiest. Use either an automatic soak cycle or manually set the controls as needed. Sorting before soaking is important to prevent dye transfer from one item to another or to keep a white or light item from picking up color that has bled into the water. Soak whites separately from colors. Soak colors that bleed separately or with fabrics of like color. Follow label directions for the presoak, detergent or other additive as to soaking time and temperature. Generally, they call for a 30-minute or longer period in warm or cool water. Spin or wring solution out of the garment before beginning the wash cycle. Elasticized garments should be soaked separately and for just a short period of time. Yellowing can occur with prolonged soaking. Prewashing Taking less time than soaking, a prewash provides an agitated washing of loads with heavy or greasy soil that might not come out in a single regular washing. Some washers have a prewash cycle that includes a short soak period; the washer may also advance to the regular wash automatically. Refer to appliance instructions for either an automatic cycle or for setting controls manually to agitate and then spin. A presoak product, detergent and/or other laundry additive should be used in a prewash. Follow with a regular wash using detergent according to label directions. Pretreating This involves treating and sometimes completely removing individual spots and stains prior to laundering. Some of the most common methods are:

Using a prewash soil and stain remover Applying and rubbing in o A liquid detergent - or o A paste of water and powder detergent - or o A laundry additive - or o Bar soap

PRODUCTS FOR REMOVING STAINS There are a number of laundry products and aids which can be used in stain treatment and

removal. The most commonly used products and the stains that they are most effective on are listed below. Detergents Form: powders, liquids Uses: effective in removing most soils Powders: especially effective on clay and ground-in dirt Liquids: especially effective on food, greasy and oily stains Soaps Form: powders, bars Uses: When used with washing soda, soap is effective in removing crayon. Bars are especially effective in removing fabric softener, perspiration and tobacco stains Detergent Boosters Form: powders, liquids Uses: especially effective in hard water Bleaches Form: sodium hypochlorite, oxygen, color removers Uses: Bleaches: All bleaches aid in stain removal and help whiten and brighten fabrics. Sodium hypochlorite bleach is a laundry disinfectant. Color Removers: reduce or completely remove colored dyes from garments. Effective in removing rust stains or dye stains which have transferred onto white garments Enzyme Presoak Products Form: powders Uses: especially effective in removing protein stains such as egg, blood, grass, baby formula, dairy products, chocolate and body fluids Prewash Soil and Stain Removers Form: aerosols, pump sprays, gels, sticks, liquids Uses: especially effective on polyester fibers and on oil-based stains such as body soils, cosmetics, cooking oils, animal fats and motor oils For Safety's Sake:

Read instructions on all products and keep them out of children's reach during use and storage. Keep products in their original labeled containers. Thoroughly wash any utensils used. DO NOT COMBINE STAIN REMOVAL PRODUCTS, especially ammonia and sodium hypochlorite bleach; some chemical mixtures may release irritating gases.

Never use a highly flammable solvent such as gasoline because vapors can explode. Solvents such as cleaning fluid, denatured alcohol or turpentine should be used only in ` well-v`ntilate` room, `way from open flame and pilot lights. They should never be inhaled. Clothes treated with solvents should be rinsed before washing.

Check for stain removal before adding to dryer. If stain remains, wash again. Dryer heat can permanently set some stains.

Stain
Adhesive tape, chewing gum, rubber cement Baby formula

Treatment
1. Apply ice or cold water to harden surface; scrape with a dull knife. 2. Saturate with prewash stain remover or cleaning fluid. 3. Rinse, then launder. 1. Pretreat or soak stains using a product containing enzymes. 2. Soak for at least 30 minutes or several hours for aged stains 3. Launder. 1. Sponge or soak stain in cool water. 2. Pretreat with prewash stain remover, liquid laundry detergent, liquid detergent booster or paste of powder laundry product and water. 3. Launder using sodium hypochlorite bleach, if safe for fabric, or oxygen bleach. NOTE: Older stains may respond to pretreating or soaking in a product containing enzymes, then laundering. Fresh Stains Soak in cold water (do not use hot water as it will set blood stains). Launder. Dried Stains Pretreat or soak in warm water with a product containing enzymes. Launder. NOTE: If stain remains, rewash using a bleach safe for fabric. 1. Pretreat or soak in a product containing enzymes. 2. Launder using sodium hypochlorite bleach, if safe for fabric, or oxygen bleach. Use a rust remover recommended for fabrics; launder. NOTE: Do not use a sodium hypochlorite bleach to remove rust stains because it may intensify discoloration

Beverages (coffee, tea, soft drinks, wine, alcoholic beverages)

Blood

Bodily fluids

Brown or yellow discoloration from iron, rust,

manganese Candle wax 1. Scrape off surface wax with a dull knife. 2. Place stain between clean paper towels and press with a warm iron. Replace paper towels frequently to absorb more wax and to avoid transferring stains. 3. Place stain facedown on clean paper towels. Sponge remaining stain with prewash stain remover or cleaning fluid; blot with paper towels. Let dry. 4. Launder. NOTE: If any color remains, rewash using sodium hypochlorite bleach, if safe for fabric, or oxygen bleach. 1. Pretreat or prewash in warm water with a product containing enzymes. Or, treat with a prewash stain remover. 2. Launder. NOTE: If stain remains, rewash using a bleach safe for fabric. 1. Pretreat with prewash stain remover, liquid laundry detergent or paste of powder detergent and water. 2. Launder. [Back to Top] Cosmetics 1. Pretreat with prewash stain remover, liquid laundry detergent, paste of powder detergent or laundry additive and water. Or, rub with bar soap. 2. Launder. For a Few Spots: 1. Treat the same as candle wax or dampen the stain and rub with bar soap, 2. Launder using hottest water safe for fabric. For a Whole Load of Clothes: 1. Wash with hot water using a laundry soap and 1 cup (212 g) baking soda. NOTE: If color remains, launder using sodium hypochlorite bleach, if safe for fabric. Otherwise, pretreat or soak in a product containing enzymes or an oxygen bleach using hottest water safe for fabric, then launder. 1. Pretreat or soak stains using a product containing enzymes. 2. Soak for at least 30 minutes or several hours for aged stains. 3. Launder.

Chocolate

Collar, cuff soil

Crayon

Dairy products

Deodorants, antiperspirants

Light Stains: 1. Pretreat with liquid laundry detergent. Launder. Heavy Stains: 1. Pretreat with prewash stain remover. Allow to stand for 5 to 10 minutes. 2. Launder using an oxygen bleach. 1. Attempt restoration of white fabrics that have picked up color from other fabrics by using a packaged color remover, following label directions. 2. Launder. NOTE: If dye remains, launder again using sodium hypochlorite bleach, if safe for fabric. For non-colorfast fabrics, soak in oxygen bleach, then launder. NOTE: This type of stain may be prevented if proper sorting and laundering procedures are followed. 1. Pretreat or soak stains using a product containing enzymes. 2. Soak for at least 30 minutes or several hours for aged stains. 3. Launder. 1. Dampen the stain and rub with bar soap. 2. Rinse out, then launder. 1. Wash with bleach safe for fabric. [Back to Top]

Dye transfer

Egg

Fabric softener Fruit, juices

Grass

1. Pretreat or soak in a product containing enzymes. NOTE: If stain persists, launder using sodium hypochlorite bleach, if safe for fabric, or oxygen bleach. Light Stains: 1. Pretreat with prewash stain remover, liquid laundry detergent or liquid detergent booster. 2. Launder using hottest water safe for fabric. Heavy Stains: 1. Place stain facedown on clean paper towels. Apply cleaning fluid to back of stain. 2. Replace paper towels under stain frequently. 3. Let dry, rinse. Launder using hottest water safe for fabric. NOTE: Some inks in each of the following categories _ ballpoint, felt tip, liquid- may be impossible to remove, Laundering may set some types of ink. Try pretreating using one of the following methods:

Grease, oil

Ink

Prewash Stain Remover: 1. Pretreat using a prewash stain remover. Launder. Denatured Alcohol or Cleaning Fluid: 1. Sponge the area around the stain with the alcohol or cleaning fluid before applying it directly on the stain. 2. Place stain facedown on clean paper towels. Apply alcohol or cleaning fluid to back of stain. Replace paper towels frequently. 3. Rinse thoroughly. Launder. Alternate Method for Denatured Alcohol or Cleaning Fluid: 1. Place stain over mouth of a jar or glass; hold fabric taut. 2. Drip the alcohol or cleaning fluid through the stain so ink will drop into the container as it is being removed. 3. Rinse thoroughly. Launder. Mildew NOTE: Badly mildewed fabrics may be damaged beyond repair. 1. Launder stained items using a bleach safe for fabric and hottest water recommended for fabric. 1. When dry, brush off as much mud as possible. Light Stains: 2. Pretreat with a paste of powder detergent and water, liquid laundry detergent or a liquid detergent booster. Launder. Heavy Stains: 1. Pretreat or presoak with a laundry detergent or a product containing enzymes. Launder. 1. Pretreat with prewash stain remover. 2. Launder using sodium hypochlorite bleach, if safe for fabric, or oxygen bleach. NOTE: Nail polish may be impossible to remove. 1. Try nail polish remover but do not use on acetate or triacetate fabrics. 2. Place stain facedown on clean paper towels. Apply nail polish remover to back of stain. Replace paper towels frequently. 3. Repeat until stain disappears, if it does. 4. Rinse and launder. Water-based Paint: 1. Rinse fabric in warm water while stains are still wet. 2. Launder. NOTE: Once paint is dry, it cannot be removed.

Mud

Mustard

Nail polish

Paint

Oil-based Paint and Varnish: 1. Use the same solvent the label on the can advises for a thinner. 2. If not available, use turpentine. 3. Rinse. 4. Pretreat with prewash stain remover, bar soap or laundry detergent. 5. Rinse and launder. [Back to Top] Perfume 1. Pretreat with prewash stain remover or liquid laundry detergent. 2. Launder. 1.Use a prewash stain remover or rub with bar soap. NOTE: If perspiration has changed the color of the fabric, apply ammonia to fresh stains or white vinegar to old stains; rinse. 2. Launder using hottest water safe for fabric. NOTE: Stubborn stains may respond to washing in a product containing enzymes or oxygen bleach in hottest water safe for fabric. 1. Sponge cleaning fluid into the stain; let dry. 2. Mix liquid laundry detergent and ammonia; soak stain in the solution. 3. Launder using liquid laundry detergent. NOTE: Badly scorched fabrics may be damaged beyond repair. 1. Launder using sodium hypochlorite bleach, if safe for fabric. Or, soak in oxygen bleach and hot water, then launder. Liquid Shoe Polish: 1. Pretreat with a paste of powder detergent and water. 2. Launder. Paste Shoe Polish: 1. Scrape residue from fabric with a dull knife. 2. Pretreat with a prewash stain remover or cleaning fluid; rinse. 3. Rub detergent into dampened area. 4. Launder using a bleach safe for fabric. 1. Scrape residue from fabric. 2. Place stain facedown on paper towels. Sponge with cleaning fluid. Replace paper towels frequently to absorb

Perspiration

Pine resin

Scorch

Shoe polish

Tar

more tar and to avoid transferring stains. 3. Launder in hottest water safe for fabric. Tobacco 1. Dampen stain and rub with bar soap; rinse. 2. Pretreat or soak in a product containing enzymes. 3. Launder. NOTE: If stain remains, launder again using a bleach safe for fabric. 1. Let stain dry thoroughly, then gently brush excess off with a clothes brush. 2. Send to professional drycleaner and mention the type of stain.

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