MerMaid

www.Tangledness.com

by Katy breithaupt

This two colored handbag is crocheted in the round in one piece, then after-thought ruffles are added on to the front. The construction makes this bag very customizable - it can be crocheted in just about any size by simply changing the starting chain and/or the number of rows. The pattern as written makes a small bag that is the perfect size for a portable work-in-progress.

Craft
Crochet

DiffiCulty

Materials

Yarn: Brown Sheep Company, Nature Spun Sport (100% wool; 184 yds [168 m]/1.75 oz [50 gm]; CYCA 3): 109S Spring Green (MC); N78S Turquoise Wonder (CC), 1 skein. Hook: US E/4 (3.5 mm). Notions: 4 removable stitch markers; tapestry needle.

GauGe

Gauge is not important for this project, just do not crochet too tightly.

available sizes
One size.

MeasureMents stitCh GuiDe

Approximately 8 tall and 9 wide, excluding strap.

Double crochet decrease (dc2tog): YO, insert hook and pull up a loop, YO, draw through two loops. YO, insert hook in next stitch and pull up a loop, YO, draw through 2 loops. YO, draw through all 3 loops on hook. Single crochet decrease (sc2tog): Do not do this as a standard sc2tog. Insert hook in next stitch and draw up a loop; insert hook in next stitch, YO and draw loop through stitch and both loops on hook. Linked double crochet (ldc): Insert hook in lower horizontal loop of the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop; insert hook in next stitch on working row, YO and pull up a loop; finish as a normal dc. Linked double crochet decrease (ldc2tog): Begin as a normal ldc; when there are 3 loops on your hook, YO and draw through 2 loops; insert hook in next stitch, YO and pull up a loop; finish as a normal dc.

instruCtions
BAG With MC, ch 41. Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and each rem ch until 1 ch rem, 3 sc in last ch. Sc in the bottom of each foundation ch across, sl st in beg sc to join. Do not turn, here and throughout bag body. Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does not count as st), dc in each stitch around, sl st in beg dc to join. Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in same stitch and each stitch around, skipping the last stitch, sl st in beg dc to join. Rnds 4 - 11: Repeat rounds 2 & 3. Rnd 12: Mark the halfway point of the round, where it naturally folds flat. Ch 2, dc in next stitch and each stitch around until you are one st from the marked stitch. Remove marker, dc2tog, replace marker in this st. Dc in next stitch and each stitch around until the last 2 stitches. Dc2tog, sl st in beg dc to join. Rnd 13: Ch 2, dc in same stitch and each stitch around until you are one st from the marked stitch. Remove marker, dc2tog, replace marker in this st. Dc in next stitch and each stitch around until the last 3 stitches. Dc2tog, skip last stitch, sl st in beg dc to join.

Rnds 14 - 19: Repeat rounds 12 & 13. Rnd 20: Repeat round 12. Do not fasten off. Proceed to strap instructions. STRAP Sl st in next 2 sts. Make a chain just a bit longer than you want the strap to be. With WS of bag facing, join the chain to the bag with a sc2tog, starting 2 sts to the right of the halfway-point stitch marker and stitching toward the halfway point of the round, turn. Row 1: Sc in each ch across, join to bag with a sc2tog, turn. Row 2: Sc in each sc across, join to bag with a sc2tog, turn. Rows 3 - 4: Repeat row 2. Row 5: Sc in each sc across, join to bag with sl st. Fasten off. RUFFlES The ruffles are surface-crocheted directly to the bag in diagonal lines. Mark on the sides of the bag where you want each ruffle to start and end, with the high side of the top-most ruffle at the top of the bag where the strap joins the body of the bag. See picture for reference. To crochet onto the surface of the bag, you will crochet into either the bottom or top vertical loops of each dc. To make the diagonal rows, starting the first ruffle on the low right side, you will start by crocheting into the bottom vertical loop of the dc you marked. After a certain number of stitches, you will move up to crochet into the top vertical loop of the same dc, and then up to the bottom vertical loop of the dc in the next row up. To determine how often you should move up, divide 40 by the number of rows from the low side to the high side of the ruffle, and divide again by two. Each ruffle is worked from a different direction, alternating between beginning at the low side or the high side of the ruffle. When working on a ruffle which begins on the high side, you will be holding the bag upside down. Refer to the photo of the finished bag for direction on color placement.

Note: The following instructions apply to all ruffles that start on the low side of the ruffle. The number of stitches will not always line up, and dont worry if you get a stitch or two off. The beauty of this design is that a little mess up will not affect the look of the ruffles Row 1: Join yarn to the bag at the marked stitch on the bottom right-hand side with a sl st. Ch 3, 2 ldc in vertical loop and each loop across (moving up to next loop when needed) until the last 2 stitches, ldc2tog, turn. Row 2: Ch 3, ldc2tog. * 2 ldc in next stitch, ldc in next stitch; repeat from * across, turn. Row 3: Ch 3, * 2 ldc in next stitch, ldc in next 2 stitches; repeat from * until the last two stitches, ldc2tog, turn. Row 4: Ch 3, ldc2tog, * 2 ldc in next stitch, ldc in next 4 stitches; repeat from * across, turn Row 5: Ch 3, * 2 ldc in next stitch, ldc in next 10 stitches; repeat from * across until the last two stitches, ldc2tog. Fasten off. Note: The following instructions apply to all ruffles that start on the high side of the ruffle. Row 1: Join to the bag with a sl st. Ch 3, ldc2tog. 2 ldc in next vertical loop and each loop across (moving down to next loop when needed), turn. Row 2: Ch 3, * 2 ldc in next stitch, ldc in next stitch; repeat from * across to last two stitches, ldc2tog, turn Row 3: Ch 3, ldc2tog, * 2 ldc in next stitch, ldc in next 2 stitches; repeat from * across, turn. Row 4: Ch 3, * 2 ldc in next stitch, ldc in next 4 stitches; repeat from * across to last two stitches, ldc2tog, turn. Row 5: Ch 3, ldc2tog, * 2 ldc in next stitch, ldc in next 10 stitches; repeat from * across. Fasten off. FINIShING There is no need to weave in ends. Felt the bag to your desired size, and cut off any loose yarn ends. You may wish to block the bag, but I found it unnecessary. Original design by Katy Breithaupt Katy lives in Tennessee with her two dogs, her husband, and soon-to-be son. She aims to create unique and customizable designs that inspire a crafters creativity. her other designs can be found on Ravelry or at www.etsy.com/shop/thehookingpost.

It is of the utmost importance to Tangled to provide accurate and well-written patterns. All Tangled patterns have been carefully edited for errors. If you think you may have found a mistake or need assistance with this design please contact Team Tangled at support@tangledness.com. This pattern is copyright 2011 by Katy Breithaupt and may not be distributed in any way. Photos by Brittany Tyler