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FASHION TRENDS IN FABRIC AND GARMENTPROCESSING

M.SELVAN AND S.MANIKANDAN 3rd Year Textile Technology

Thiagarajar Polytechnic College, Salem - 5

INTRODUCTION We are in 21st century. It is very fast and a competitive one. To face this world man develops so many special things every day. The altimate aim is to show him as a separate person in his environment. And for the purpose in textile field also the fashion and other things have been developed. Now we are going to see about such a topic that FASHION TRENDS IN FABRIC AND GARMENT PROCESSING. FASHION TRENDS IN FABRIC PROCESSING Eco friendly-Durable press finishing for silk fabric: Poly carboxylic acid which are non formaldehyde reactants are possible replacement for conventional finishing reactants. The main advantage of poly carboxylic acids is that they are formaldehyde free, do not have bad odour, and produce very soft fabric hand. The fabric are treated with different concentration of citric acid and glyoxal with Al2So4 and MgCl2 as catalyst and softening agent. Then the fabrics are padded, dried and cured at 120C These eco friendly, crease resistant finish have been found to have less deleterious effect on mechanical properties like abrasion resistance, tensile strength. However the research is going on with different formaldehyde free-wrinkle resistant agents and different catalyst.

CREASE RECOVERY ANGLE IN DEGREES OF MULBERRY AND TASSAR FABRIC Glyoxal (Al2SO4) Concentration (OWF) Mulberry Tassar Control 130 70 5% 141 80 10% 123 68 6% 133 91 Citric acid (Sodium Hypophosphate) 10% 138 93 15% 126 67 6% 140 86 8% 126 64 DMDHEU (MgCl2) 10% 129 71 15% 128 62

Antimicrobial finish in textiles: Infestation by microbes cause cross infection by pathogens and development odour where the fabric is worn next to skin. In addition, the staining and loss of the performance properties of textile substrates are the results of microbial attack. Basically, with a view to protect the wearer and the textile substrate itself antimicrobial finish is applied to textile materials. It is done by using diffusion type. And hence it does not cause for any health problems. Methodologies of antimicrobial finishing: Insolubilisation of the active substances in/on the fibre. Treating the fibre with resin, condensates or cross-linking agents. Micro encapsulation of the antimicrobial agents with the fibre matrix Coating the fibre surface. Chemical modification of the fibre by covalent bond formation. Use of graft polymers, homo polymers and/or co-polymerisation on the fibre.

Some harmful bacteria and fungi; Bacteria Gram positive bacteria, Gram negative bacteria, Proteus vulgaris. Fungi Crop damaging fungi, Fusarium species, Sclerotium rolfsii. Antimicrobial treatment for textile materials fulfills the following objectives: It avoids cross infection by pathogenic and controls the infestation by microbes. It arrest metabolism in microbes in order to reduce the formation odour. It safe guard the textile products from staining, discolouration and quality deterioration.

Wrinkle-recovery treatment to khadi & handloom fabrics: The finished khadi & handloom fabrics after DMDHEU treatment showed round fibres having crease recovery angle of 152 degrees imparting wrinkle-free characteristics and smoothness. The fabric is first scoured with 2% non-ionic soap and 2% soda ash on the weight of fabric at a temperature of 100C for one hour and then scoured fabric is subjected to DMDHEU solution with MgCl2 as catalyst. The fabric is padded, dried and cured. From this treatment, the following result is achieved: 1. Increased crease recovery up to 152 2. Increased tensile strength 3. Increased stiffness 4. Free from chemical residues due to ageing. Fourth state treatment for textiles: Plasma technologies provide an environmentally-friendly and versatile way of treating textile materials in order to enhance a variety of properties such as wettability, liquid repellency, dyeabilty and coating adhesion. Plasma technology is a surface sensitive method that allows selective modification in the nm range by introducing energy into a gas, a quasi-neutral plasma can be generated consisting of neutral particles, electrically charged particles and highly reactive radicals. The plasma treatment on textile material interferes in the following aspects: 1. Adhesiveness 2. Chemical inertia and affinity 3. Wetting capacity 4. Bio-compatibility 5. Protection and anti-wear 6. Sterilisation

Effect of plasma treatment on textile:

The cleaning effect is mostly combined with changes in the wettability and the surface texture. This leads for example to an increase of quality printing, painting, dye-uptake, adhesion and so on.

Increase of micro roughness-this effects, for example, on anti-pilling finishing of wool. Generation of radicals-the presence of free radicals induces secondary reaction like cross-linking. Further more polymerisation can be carried out as well as reaction with oxygen to generate hydrophilic surfaces. Plasma polymerization-it enables the deposition of solid polymeric materials with desired properties onto the substrates.

The advantage of such treatment is that the modification is restricted to the uppermost layers of the substrate thus not affecting the over all desirable bulk properties of the substrate adherent.

Advantages of plasma treatment: The consumption of chemicals is very low due to the physical process. The process is performed in a dry, closed system, and excels in high reliability and safety, environment it increase abrasion resistance, dyeing speed, friction between fibres and shearing strain at fibre/material. Plasma treatment gives anti-felting, anti-shrinking, anti-dirty, hydrophilicity to polypropylene bond liquid repellent capacity to awning materials, oil repellent capacity, functionality to polyester fibre dyeing. It shortens times of dye fixation, gives better solidity of printing pigments in polyester, spreading in dyeing capacity and reduces effluents, polyester dyeing, aromatic fibres adhesiveness to adhesiveness on textile substrates, adhesiveness between surfaces. Functional finishes for woolen textiles: India consumes about 103 million kg of wool. About 70 million kg are imported from other countries.

Photo stabilization finish: Photochemical tendering, one of the biggest drawbacks in protein fibre, is caused by ultra-violet radian exposure to sunlight fabric absorbs researches found that tryptophan as well as other amino acids present in protein implicated the yellowing of wool fibre. UV absorbers are based on formulations like dehydroxybenzophenone, phenyl esters and salicylates, derivatives of 2-hytroxyphenyl, substituted cinnamic acid derivatives, paminobenzoates, polymeric and polymerisable absorbers, complexes and other salts. Phase change finish (micro-encapsulation): This innovative technology makes use of microcapsules, which act as tiny containers of solids or liquids. This release their core contents under controlled conditions to suit a specific purpose. Micro-encapsulation impart a wide range of features. Demineralization of woven fabric with HCL: Analysis of raw cotton has revealed surprisingly high variation in levels of calcium, magnesium and iron. The metal irons are transferred to cotton through contamination with soil in the cotton plantation area in modern harvesting methods, processing systems and packing plants increase the iron content of the fabric. In peroxide bleaching process, this metallic contaminants result in the feared catalytic damage, which in extreme cases can cause holes in the fabric and the destruction of individual threads. Various extraction methods can be employed at the pre treatement stageto prevent this from happening. From a chemical point of view, demineralization with the aid of HCL in the simplest solution. Complex metallic compounds ( e.g. Iron (III) oxide) are converted into water soluble ferric chlorides, which can then be simply washed out. The treatment of cotton with HCL is very risky, as the cotton can be completely destroyed if the acid is not applied correctly. This makes beginners job of delivering an operationally safe and efficient plant for demineralization with inorganic acids all the more challenging. BIO PROCESSING OF TEXTILES Bioprocessing firms will rely mainly on inexpensive substrates for biosynthesis, processes that will function at low temperatures, and will consume little energy. Bioprocessing can simply be defined as the application of living organisms and their components to industrial products and processes.

Some enzymes are;

Animal enzyme - Catalase, Lipase, Protease Bacterial enzyme - Alfa-amylase, protease Plant enzyme Protease

INTEGRATED BIO-DESIZING AND BIO-SCOURING: The integrated Bio-desizing and Bio-scouring system uses an empirically developed enzyme formulation, based on amylase, pectinase, protease and lipase that act synergistically, resulting in desizing and scouring of cotton goods, under mild conditions. Bio polishing: Bio-polishing or cellulase enzyme treatment of lyocell type of regenerated cellulose could produce peach like effect. Bio-polishing give cleaner appearance to the garment besides wash down effect. If it was sulphur or pigment dyed goods or ring dyed fabric, wash down effect as well as cleaning of fabric surface could be obtained. The result surface hair was removed, reduced pilling, better print registration and colour brightness. Size of cellulase enzyme was about 8nm as also the size of cellulose monomer, which was in similar region. Enzymes effect on colour: Combination of enzyme, sand blasting and bleach evolved a fashion recently. Sand blasting was enzyme treatments which subject the denim fabric to sand at high pressure with consequent exposure of white area while blowing off surface colour followed by a treatment of the fabric again with enzyme, leading to a salt and pepper effect and bleached to reduce the colour value. Furthermore, after sand blasting, treatment with enzyme followed by over dyeing of the abraded areas produced typical effects on denim.

BIO-BLEACHING: It was applicable for all kinds of colours and a single enzyme could be used in the textile industry. Bio-bleaching had been adapted for denim. Indigo specific lipases were used to bleach indigo. Earlier denim was bleached with chlorine to get lighter denim or wash down effect. Lipase combination was used successfully and if this could be extended to other colours, this would become an important enzyme in future. The advantages were environment friendly application, non AOX generation and cellulose was not affected. A bio-bleaching or lipase treatment on denim gave an authentic wash resulting in an excellent look, which was

better than a neutral wash and a grey cast, which was used in bleaching.Amylase and lipase were used for desizing and cellulase for aberration. Lactase was introduced for bleaching of indigo. Decolorization of dyes by using biotechnology The synthetic dyes are designed in such a way that they become resistant to microbial degradation under the aerobic conditions. Also the water solubility and the high molecular weight inhibit the permeation through biological cell membranes. Anaerobic processes convert the organic contaminants principally occupy less space; treat wastes containing up to 30,000 mg/l of COD, have lower running costs and produce less sludge. Azo dyes are susceptible to anaerobic biodegradation but reduction of azo compounds can result in odor problems. Biological systems, such as biofilters and bioscrubbers, are now available for the removal of odor and other volatile compounds. The dyes can be removed by biosorption on apple pomace and wheat straw. The experimental results showed that 1 gm of apple pomace and 1 gm of wheat straw, with a particle size of 600 m, where suitable adsorbents for the removal of dyes from effluents. Apple pomace had a greater capacity to adsorb the reactive dyes taken for the study compared to wheat straw. MOSQUITO REPELLENT TEXTILES Because of global warming the distribution of mosquitoes has expanded from tropical regions to northern latitudes, and that leads to a spread in sources of viral infection from mosquitoes. Especially, the West Nile fever virus, which has infected many people around the world recently, has become a big issue. West Nile fever occurs routinely in Africa as its virus was first recognized in humans at the West Nile District of Uganda in 1937, and then infections were confirmed in Israel, France and South Africa and it is now showing signs of spreading further all over the world. The first outbreak occurred in New York City in 1999, which spread rapidly to over 4000 people all over the U.S. and killed over 240 people. It is likely that the virus arrived via wild birds imported as pets and via plane or boat in an infected mosquito. Persons diagnosed with the disease have recently even been confirmed in the island country of Japan with the wave of globalization, and the Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare requires cases be reported to prefectural governors under regulations for disease control and prevention

FASHION TREND IN GARMENT PROCESSING Use of laser technology It is a computer controlled process for denim fading. This technique enables patterns to be created such as lines and/or dots, images, text or even pictures. In one version of this concept, a mask is used to give the desired shape that is to be applied on the fabric. The laser projects through a lens system, which expands the beam. This beam is passed through the shaped mask that comprises an aperture of the desired shape and is then deflected by a mirror to strike the textile substrate. The duration of exposure determines the final effect on the fabric. The novelty of this system is that

It is water free fading of denim. It is an ecological and economical process. It can create local abrasion and fabric breaks, used look effect, moustache with excellent reproducibility and higher productivity. Being an automatic system, chances of human error are slim. The design is electronically translated on the fabric, thus avoiding the need for photolites of serigraphy cleaning.

The machine is very simple and compact, therefore requires very low maintenance and cleaning, extremely safe and reliable. Ozone fading By using this technique, the garment can be bleached. Bleaching of denim garment is done in washing machine with ozone dissolved in water. Denim garments can also be bleached or faded by using ozone gas in closed chamber. The advantages associated with this process are: - Colour removal is possible without losing strength. - This method is very simple and environmentally friendly because after laundering, ozonized water can easily be deozonized by UV radiation.

Waterjet fading

Hydrojet treatment has been developed for patterning and/or enhancing the surface finish, texture, durability, and other characteristics of denim garment. Hydroject treatment generally involves exposing one or both surfaces of the garment through hydrojet nozzles. The degree of colour washout, clarity of patterns, and softness of the resulting fabric are related to the type of dye in the fabric and the amount and manner of fluid impact energy applied to the fabric. Particularly good results are obtained with blue indigo dyed denim. As this process is not involved with any chemical, it is pollution free. By using water recycling system, the technique can be used as economical and environmental friendly denim processing. Color washout of dye in the striped areas produces a faded effect without blurring, loss of fabric strength or durability, or excessive warp shrinkage. GARMENT PROCESSING WITH BIOLOGICAL SANITIZATION Biological inspection procedures and surface sanitization procedures are incorporated with a garment providing service to look for and monitor the presence of microbes, such as bacteria in particular, and to eliminate such microbes within the garment service. Biological inspection procedures can be conducted on the garments themselves, or any surface of the garment facility, such as a surface onto which the garments may come into contact after laundering. Preferably, a washing procedure is conducted based upon a cleaning formulation to also minimize the presence of microbes. Garments are preferably inspected after they are laundered and ready for delivery to the customer. Facility surfaces, such as sorting and/or folding tables that may be utilized after laundering, are sanitized and then may be tested in accordance with the present invention to minimize the potential for contamination of garments from such surfaces. Optionally, the equipment that is used after laundering for such activities can be dedicated for processing garments in accordance with the biological inspection service as such garments are to be delivered to a customer, such as a processor within the food industry. GARMENT DYEING-GARMENT DYES SYNTHETIC DYES TO DYE GARMENTS-EMACOL CT COLOR The dyeing is mostly carried out by using rotary garment dyeing machine. The temperature required for dyeing is low around 50-70C The time required for dyeing is less around 30 minutes These dyes are most suitable for all fibres and their blends.

Residual color in effluent is nil

PICTURIAL VIEW

START 18C

50C

60C

FINISH 60C x 20minutes

VEGETABLE DYES .An Italian company, highly specialized in garment dyeing and surface treatment of textiles, has developed research based upon non-toxic metal ions which led to an extensive offer of intense colour shades with high fastness. It is possible by using vegetable dyes. An example for vegetable dyes: OLALLIBERRY DYE Olallie is a Native American Indian word that means blackberry. These berry plants were first developed in 1949 by crossing a Loganberry with a Youngberry. Developments: The value addition to the garments has become quite popular, which makes them even more desirable. Some of unique characteristics that could be added to garments are wrinkle-free finish, flame resistance finish, anti microbial finish, UV absoption finish, oil repellent finish, etc. for eg. before some years it was not possible to get wrinkle-free finish with less strength deficit, yellowing and low maintenance altogether. But now it has become possible to get wrinkle free finish along with the three features described. The present system of wrinkle finishing consist of ingrained softness and catalysts.

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