Open Skies December 2011

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the yacht-master ii
EVERY ROLEX I S MADE FOR GREATNESS. THE YACHT- MASTER I I
HAS BEEN DESIGNED TO MEET THE NEEDS OF PROFESSIONAL SAILORS.
IT I S THE WORLDS FIRST COMPLICATION BUILT WITH A PATENTED
PROGRAMMABLE COUNTDOWN AND MECHANICAL MEMORY, ENSURING
PERFECT SYNCHRONI SATION WITH THE START TIME OF ANY REGATTA.
the yacht-master ii
EVERY ROLEX I S MADE FOR GREATNESS. THE YACHT- MASTER I I
HAS BEEN DESIGNED TO MEET THE NEEDS OF PROFESSIONAL SAILORS.
IT I S THE WORLDS FIRST COMPLICATION BUILT WITH A PATENTED
PROGRAMMABLE COUNTDOWN AND MECHANICAL MEMORY, ENSURING
PERFECT SYNCHRONI SATION WITH THE START TIME OF ANY REGATTA.
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majestic palace.pdf 11/21/11 7:26:05 PM
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majestic palace.pdf 11/21/11 7:26:05 PM
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levant (revised).pdf 11/22/11 11:31:57 AM
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levant (revised).pdf 11/22/11 11:31:57 AM
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bombay realty.pdf 11/21/11 2:25:53 PM
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bombay realty.pdf 11/21/11 2:25:53 PM
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park hyatt.pdf 11/21/11 2:26:44 PM
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park hyatt.pdf 11/21/11 2:26:44 PM
Australia. . . . . . . . . +61 2 8337 2791
Fiji . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . +679 672 2755
Guam. . . . . . . . . . . . +1671 646 6555
India . . . . . . . . . . . +91 11 2506 1567
Jordan . . . . . . . . . . +962 6 5684 771
Kuwait . . . . . . . . . . . +965 2473 5419
Lebanon. . . . . . . . . . . +961 1510 100
Libya. . . . . . . . . . . +218 21 3332 230
Morocco. . . . . . . . +212 522 540 022
New Caledonia . . . . . +687 27 27 30
New Zealand . . . . . . +643 359 2721
Oman . . . . . . +968 2448 9248/9648
Papua New Guinea +1675 32 32333
Qatar. . . . . . . . . . . . . +974 4666 655
Seychelles. . . . . . . . . . +248 225 862
Turkey. . . . . . . . . . +90 212 465 3156
UAE Dubai . . . . . . . +971 4 224 5404
UAE Abu Dhabi . . . +971 2 599 8989
For a complete list of worldwide destinations,
please visit thrifty.com
2011 A licensee of Thrifty Rent-A-Car System, Inc.. All rights reserved.
Thrifty Locations:
Earn 500 Skywards Miles per rental at all Thrifty locations
17613 Emirates Inflight copy 3/9/11 8:46 AM Page 1
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GB AD HIGH RES.pdf 1 10/26/2011 1:40:11 PM
Insure your car
and protect your family
all at once
Introducing 24/7 Auto-Life
ADNlC's rst uuto nsurunce pun vth u husse-ree e nsurunce upgrude.
Find out how 24/7 Auto-Life can bring you complete and unconditional peace of mind at an incredible bargain by calling toll free 800 8040
or visiting www.adnic.ae
Middle East Insurance Company of the Year 2009 & 2010 | Rated Strong A- by Standard & Poors | Rated A Excellent by A.M. Best | 2011 MEIF Insurance Company of the Year
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samsung.pdf 11/22/11 11:38:44 AM
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QNB credit card Open Skies.pdf 1 11/20/11 11:13 AM
Maxi Marine Diver Chronograph - 8006-102-3A/92
Self-winding movement. Water-resistant to 200 m.
18 ct rose gold case, rubber strap with rose gold elements.
Available on gold bracelet.
WWW. ULY S S E - NAR DI N. COM
ULYSSE NARDIN BOUTIQUE, MALL OF THE EMIRATES +971 4 3950577
BINHENDI JEWELLERY, THE DUBAI MALL +971 4 4341421
ALSO AVAILABLE IN DUBAI DUTY FREE, DUBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
SOON TO OPEN: ULYSSE NARDIN BOUTIQUE, ZABEEL SARAY
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UN 8006Diver OpenSkies.pdf 1 11/20/11 9:59 AM
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Luxury ad GulfAir 27x205(T).ai 1 11/15/11 10:53 AM
Porsche Design
FASHION
1000
A statement of style: Porsche Design Fashion for men and women.
The Aviator Jacket. Made of Spanish Merinillo lambskin. www.porsche-design.com
www.facebook.com/porschedesign.pt
The Dubai Mall +971 4 4341415 | Mall of the Emirates +971 4 3410899
Mirdif City Centre +971 4 2843640 | Atlantis Hotel +971 4 4220311
Also Available in Dubai Duty Free +9714 2162453 | Soon to Open: Marina Mall, Abu Dhabi
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PD Fashion OpenSkies.pdf 1 11/21/11 12:55 PM
www.indonesia.travel
Mall of the Emirates 04 341 0630 | The Dubai Mall 04 434 1400
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HB AD OS 2011.pdf 1 10/16/11 4:17 PM
22890_Openskies_260X195mm.indd 1 11/21/11 4:38 PM
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brioni.pdf 11/21/11 2:26:25 PM
Certain features, services and applications are network dependent and may not be available; additional terms, conditions and/or charges may apply. MOTOROLA
and the Stylised M Logo are registered trademarks of Motorola Trademark Holdings, LLC. 2011 Motorola Mobility, Inc. KEVLAR is a registered trademark of Du-
Pont used under license by Motorola Mobility, Inc. All rights reserved. All other trademark and product or service names are the property of their respective owners.
The new MOTOROLA RAZR is the most captivating Android-
powered smartphone on the scene. Watch as heads turn to check
out its ultra-thin form and stunning design, while the mind-blowing
power of dual-core processing leaves you all aglow. Stream music,
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anywhere. In the light of day or dark of night, hyper-vibrant
colours keep everything looking beautiful on the Super AMOLED
Advanced 4.3 display. Go ahead. Get your hands on it. We wont
tell your other smartphone.
www.facebook.com/MotorolaME www.twitter.com/MotorolaME
21972GE_Openskies26x19.5Wind.indd 1 11/16/11 11:05 AM
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ajman free zone.pdf 11/20/11 2:30:26 PM
Witness and enjoy 360 degrees of
unparalleled views of Dubai and beyond
from the highest public observation terrace
in the world, At the Top, Burj Khalifa.
Explore the unique, interactive Burj Khalifa
multi-media exhibits. Explore the history of
Dubai aboard the 65-metre-long travelator.
To experience all-round enjoyment, visit
At the Top, Burj Khalifa.
360 of enjoyment...
For more information please call us on 800 At the Top, or visit www.atthetop.ae to purchase your tickets today.
31
EDITORS LETTER
fascinating stuf, if a little bit scary. Just remember not to
take those waist sizes for granted. It is not just humans that
consume nature does it too. And rarely has the beauty of the earths remote
edges been captured so vividly as in Garry Simpsons portraits. From eerie
lakes in Texas to Finlands frozen north, his work is stunning. Enjoy the issue.
T
his magazine is free. You probably know that
already, but we just want to remind you in
case someone tries to charge you for it. As you
may or may not have guessed, this issue is dedicated
to consumption; the consumption of ideas, of food, of
fashion, of, well, anything really. We, of course, are
part of the problem, creating a magazine
that (we hope) you want to read each month.
So we apologise for taking up even more of
your precious time. So in that spirit, heres
whats on offer in our December issue. If there
was ever a city that sucks in its visitors, it is Vienna.
And its most famous son is Mozart, himself no slouch when
it came to creating an atmosphere. Kerry Christiani follows in
the maestros footsteps around the Austrian capital. Brand guru
and Time columnist Martin Lindstrom looks at the hidden motives of
why we buy. Think synapses, genetics and other subconscious reasoning. Its
CONOR@OPENSKIESMAGAZINE.COM
INTERNATIONAL MEDIA REPRESENTATIVES: AUSTRALIA/NEW ZEALAND Okeeffe Media, Kevin O Keeffe; Tel + 61 89 447 2734, okeeffekev@bigpond.com.au,
BENELUXM.P.S. Benelux; Francesco Sutton; Tel +322 720 9799, Fax +322 725 1522, francesco.sutton@mps-adv.com CHINA Publicitas Advertising; Tel +86 10 5879
5885 FRANCE Intermedia Europe Ltd; Fiona Lockie, Katie Allen, Laura Renault; Tel +33 15 534 9550, Fax +33 15 534 9549, administration@intermedia.europe.com
GERMANY IMV International Media Service GmbH, Wolfgang Jger; Tel +49 89 54 590 738, Fax +49 89 54 590 769, wolfgang.jager@iqm.de HONG KONG/MALAYSIA/
THAILAND Sonney Media Networks, Hemant Sonney; Tel +852 27 230 373, Fax +852 27 391 815, hemant@sonneymedia.com INDIA Media Star, Ravi Lalwani; Tel +91
22 4220 2103, Fax +91 22 2283 9619, ravi@mediastar.co.in ITALY IMM Italia Lucia Colucci; Tel +39 023 653 4433, Fax +39 029 998 1376, lucia.colucci@fastwebnet.it
JAPAN Tandem Inc.; Tel + 81 3 3541 4166, Fax +81 3 3541 4748, all@tandem-inc.com NETHERLANDS GIO Media, Giovanni Angiolini; Tel +31 6 2223 8420, giovanni@
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207 906 2001, Fax +44 207 906 2022, nhopkins@spafax.com USA Totem Brand Stories, Brigitte Baron, Marina Chetner; Tel +212 896 3846, Fax +212 896 3848, brigitte.
baron@rtotembrandstories.com
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Obaid Humaid Al Tayer GROUP EDITOR & MANAGING PARTNER Ian Fairservice GROUP SENIOR EDITOR
Gira )olrsor gira[ro:iVa:eae SENIOR EDITOR ârl LVars rarle[ro:iVa:eae EDITOR Coror IDrcell coror[
ro:iVa:eae DESIGNER KoDi Irarcisco ror[ro:iVa:eae CHIEF SUB EDITOR !air Sri:l iairs[ro:iVa:eae STAFF WRITER
â::lev Iries: EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Londressa Flores SENIOR PRODUCTION MANAGER S Sunil Kumar PRODUCTION
MANAGER C Sudhakar GENERAL MANAGER, GROUP SALES Ar:lor, îlre ar:lor,[ro:iVa:eae BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT
MANAGER !icola HDdsor ricola[ro:iVa:eae SENIOR ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER )a,a Lalalrislrar a,a[ro:iVa:e
ae ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER Murali Narayanan ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER SlrD:i SriVas:aVa EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS
FOR EMIRATES: Ldi:or Siohlar Larde: Arahic Ldi:or Ha:er Orar DeD:, Ldi:or S:elarie L,rre Vehsi:e erira:es
com CONTRIBUTORS: Iarooq Saliq. Gare:l Kees. Vael Al Sa,egl. ârl Iovell. HG1. Gerra Correll. Ilil Ol. Lerarir
Ireelard. Koli: â:oo. !ira Siegal. LvoD: HDihers. Kerr, Clris:iari. )err, Holirs. âr:ir Lirds:ror. Garr, Sirsor Axis Maps,
COVER ILLUSTRATION by Simone Massoni MASTHEAD DESIGN h, Dir: vvvqDir:dDhaicor
PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE Telephone: (+971 4) 282 4060
Fax:(+971 4) 282 4436 Email: emirates@motivate.ae
Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In
the event of any inaccuracy please contact The Editor.Any opinion expressed
is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and
facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal,
nancial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist
advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.
Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE
84,649
COPIES
OS10_031-031_EdsLetter.indd 31 11/21/11 3:47:17 PM
UAE Open Skies EVO_Carrera1887_mag_SPcoop_260x195.indd 1 11/21/11 11:42 AM
33
CONTENTS
DECEMBER
OUR MAN IN EDMONTON GIVES US THE LOWDOWN ON THIS
REMOTE CANADIAN BOOMTOWN (P39)... WE TAKE A LOOK AT
HOLLYWOODS BEST FITNESS CLUBS VIA OUR TWITTER PITCH (P43)...
MOSCOW GETS MAPPED THIS MONTH AS WE EXPLORE THE RUSSIAN
CAPITAL (P46)... BRAZILIAN DRUM & BASS LEGEND, DJ MARKY
REVEALS HIS TOP TEN TUNES (P52)... COPENHAGENS COOLEST GET
THE STREET PEEPER TREATMENT (P60)... AMSTERDAMS RESTAURANT
INDUSTRY HAS BEEN TRANSFORMED COURTESY OF A FORMER
NIGHTCLUB (P64)... WE CHECK OUT SOME OF THE WORLDS BEST
MAGAZINES IN BOOTY (P66)... KERRY CHRISTIANI GOES ON THE
MOZART TRAIL IN VIENNA, ONE OF EUROPES MOST BEAUTIFUL
CITIES (P72)... GARETH REES EXAMINES THE MICHELIN GUIDE
PHENOMENON AND WONDERS IF ITS STAR IS ON THE WANE (P94)...
BRANDING GURU THOMAS LINDSTROM EXAMINES THE GENETICS OF
SHOPPING AND THE SCIENCE BEHIND WHY WE BUY (P106)... GARRY
SIMPSONS HAUNTING PICTURES CAPTURE OTHERWORLDLY
LANDSCAPES ACROSS THE GLOBE FROM TEXAS TO ICELAND (P118)...
OS10_033-033_Contents.indd 33 11/23/11 5:21:47 PM
35
CONTRIBUTORS
DJ MARKY: One of South Americas most successful musical exports, this Brazilian drum & bass DJ has pioneered the genre in his
home country. Both his DJ sets and production work have gained plaudits from fans around the world.
MARTIN LINDSTROM: A columnist for Fast Company and Time magazine, Lindstrom is a best-selling author of numerous books
on marketing. He was also featured in the Morgan Spurlock documentary, The Greatest Movie Ever Sold.
GARRY SIMPSON: One of the UKs best photographers, Simpsons cinematic take on landscapes and people have gained him a
worldwide following. His shots of some of the planets most distant locations are particularly haunting.
KERRY CHRISTIANI: A travel writer based in Germany who has written for Lonely Planet, BBC Olive and Frommers, as well as
authored 20 books. She currently lives in The Black Forest with her photographer husband.
NINA SIEGAL: Nina is the editor of Time Out Amsterdam and has written for publications such as The New York Times, the Wall
Street Journal, W. Magazine and Bloomberg News. Her debut novel, A Little Trouble With The Facts, was published in 2008.
OS10_035-035_Contributors.indd 35 11/23/11 5:22:45 PM
www.girard-perregaux.com
LEBANON - Girard-Perregaux Boutique Down Town Beirut Souks: +961 199 0956
KUWAIT - Ghadah: +965 240 0951 | KSA - Mouawad: Ryadh: +966 1 293 4555, Jeddah: +966 2 263 2636, Alkhobar: +966 3 894 5747
OMAN - Khimji Ramdas: +968 2 479 6161 | QATAR - Al Fardan: +974 440 8408
UAE - Al Fardan Jewellery: Abu Dhabi: +971 2 674 5000, Dubai: +971 4 351 1666 - Damas: Dubai: +971 4 445 9490
BAHRAIN - Rivoli: +973 1 717 8469 | IRAN - Tehran Watch Co: +98 212 261 3752
GIRARD-PERREGAUX 1966
Annual Calendar and Equation of Time
Pink gold case, sapphire case back,
Girard-Perregaux automatic mechanical movement.
Annual calendar, equation of time, date, small second.
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INTRO
I. 39 CANADA'S BOOM TOWN P. 4 MOSCOW MAIIED I. S historic gluttons P. 62 BlPMlNGHAM'S FlNEST
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OS10_037-037_FOBCover.indd 37 11/21/11 3:48:01 PM
IWC Portuguese.
Engineered for navigators.
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN BOUTIQUES: DUBAI MALL Tel: 04 339 8111, BURJUMAN Tel: 04 355 1717, ABU DHABI MARINA MALL - Tel: 02 681 1557
Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons: Atlantis - Tel: 04 422 0233, Mall of the Emirates Tel: 04 341 1211, Dubai Duty Free Tel Toll Free: 800 - 4443
Rivoli Prestige: Abu Dhabi Mall Tel: 02 645 6220
Mechani cal IWC-manufactured movement (figure) |
Fl yback functi on | Automati c IWC
doubl e-pawl wi ndi ng system |
Date displ ay | Anti refl ecti ve
sapphi re gl ass | Sapphi re-gl ass back
cover | Water-resistant 6 bar | Stai nl ess steel
Always on course.
Portuguese Yacht Club Chronograph. Ref. 3902: Please make a U-turn if
possible. The instruments used by sailors in the tradition of Vasco da Gama
are less intrusive. One of the legends of navigation is the Portuguese
Yacht Club Chronograph. Its IWC-manufactured movement with fly-
back function and automatic double-pawl winding guarantees precise
landings. And even if you happen to head off in the wrong direction,
no ones going to start nagging you. IWC. Engineered for men.
UAE Open Skies P0IE IW390204coop_260x195.indd 1 10/20/11 5:20 PM
39
OUR MAN IN
Y
ou can tell a lot about a
place from its traffic and
the capital city of Canadas
second westernmost province is
no exception. On any given Friday
night, Jasper Avenue Edmontons
main nightlife artery is choked
with brand-new pickup trucks
driven by newly well-to-do blue
collar men in their early 20s. Some
are there for the weekend or on
holiday from the northern oil and
gas boomtown of Fort McMurray.
Others work downstream from
the oil sands in Refinery Row in
the eastern suburb of Sherwood
Park. All, however, have come
to symbolise the ever-growing
affluence of Canadas Oil Capital
a laissez-faire city where just about
anything goes, provided you dont
criticise the oil sands.
Albertas oil sands (also known
pejoratively as the Tar Sands) are a
formidable presence in every sense.
Physically, the bitumen deposits
situated under Albertas northern
boreal forests are enormous,
occupying a land mass roughly the
size of Bangladesh and containing
the worlds largest proven oil
reserves after Saudi Arabia. In
economic terms they have turned
Canada into a veritable oil and gas
superpower and given Alberta a
per-capita GDP higher than all 50
US states.
Unsurprisingly, international
criticism of the provinces energy
industry has become a decidedly
sensitive matter. And nowhere is
this truer than in Edmonton, a city
whose mercurial economic fortunes
have paralleled those of Albertas oil
industry, and whose growing stature
has in large part been made possible
by the scarred, oil-rich real estate to
the north of the city.
Albertas capital city is a
paradoxical place. Founded in
1795 as a northern fur trading
post, Edmonton emerged as a
transportation gateway to northern
Canada in the early 20th century,
frst to the diamond mines of the
North-west Territories and later
to Albertas burgeoning energy
industry. To this day, Edmonton is
seen more as a transit point than a
destination, overshadowed at every
turn by its fashier twin, Calgary,
the provinces corporate and tourism
hub. And yet the city surprises.
Nestled around a leafy bend in the
Saskatchewan River, Edmonton is
home to 40 diferent arts and culture
festivals, including its world-
renowned Fringe and Folk Festivals.
Its population is increasingly
diverse, with a recent infux of
immigrants from Africa and the
countrys fastest growing Aboriginal
population giving this once-
predominantly European city an
increasingly multicultural favour.
Tolerance extends only so far
however. Controversy erupted
earlier this year when it transpired
that a documentary that criticised
the exploitation of the oil sands had
been funded in part by the Alberta
government, leading the citys
normally mild mannered journalists
and citizenry to cry blue murder.
Renowned Canadian humourist
and Calgary native Will Ferguson
once described his fellow Albertans
as a hospitable bunch as long as
you dont push your luck. Nowhere
does this better apply than to
Edmonton an oddly high-brow
yet fundamentally blue collar
metropolis where a live-and-let-live
spirit prevails, so long as the citys
sacred economic cow is accorded its
due respect.
CANADAS OIL CAPITAL IS ONE OF ITS MOST PARADOXICAL CITIES
Benjamin Freeland is a writer based in Edmonton, Canada. You can follow him at: www.twitter.com/benfreeland
EDMONTON
OS10_039-039_OurMan.indd 39 11/21/11 3:48:52 PM
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INFORMATION ELEGANCE
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DUBAI - Baume & Mercier Boutique, Dubai Mall, T: 04 339 8880.
Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons - Mall of the Emirates, T: 04 341 1211 -
Burjuman Mall, T: 04 355 1717 - Atlantis Hotel, T: 04 422 0233 -
Mirdif City Centre, T: 04 284 3100 - Festival City, T: 04 232 9222 -
Wa City, T: 04 324 6060. ABU DHABI - Al Manara Jewellery -
Hamdan Street, T: 02 626 2629. Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons -
Marina Mall, T: 02 681 1171.
UAE Open Skies BM_AdA4_Co_MOA10009_EN_260x195.indd 1 11/16/11 4:12 PM
43
TWITTER PITCH
Established in 1999. Our experienced
teachers provide skilled instruction for
students of all levels to practice in a
vibrant, friendly environment.
www.twitter.com/CityYogaLA
Golds
Gym
City
Yoga
Pilates
Plus
Effective pilates in the heart
of Downtown. 845 S Broadway,
Downtown Los Angeles.
www.twitter.com/ppspx
Health, tness, motivation and
strength... all in 140 characters or less.
What are you #StrongerThan?
www.twitter.com/goldsgym
Hollywoods premier womens gym! For
all women, all ages, shapes, and sizes.
www.twitter.com/pinkiron
Pink
Iron
Every month we profile a number of venues in a different city, country or
continent. The catch? The companies must be on Twitter and must tell us
in their own words what makes them so special. This month, we feature Los
Angeles health clubs. If you want to get involved, follow us at:
www.twitter.com/openskiesmag
LOS ANGELES
HEALTH CLUBS
Get in shape and burn fat 9 times faster, with
Barrys Bootcamp! The exercise secret of
Hollywoods biggest stars.
www.twitter.com/BarrysBootcamp
Barrys
Bootcamp
OS10_043-043_TwitterPitch.indd 43 11/21/11 3:50:50 PM
45
BOOKED
FREDERICK EXLEY
A FANS NOTES
Y
es, this is a memoir, a book
about this writers troubled
life. But A Fans Notes is
touched by a mad genius that sets
it apart from almost every other
book in the genre. Exley is a magical
writer. Some of his sentences take
the breath away and his narrative
pulses along manically. The book
chronicles Exleys decent into
mental illness, shock therapy and
alcoholism as he tries and fails
to capture the American dream.
Parallel to Exleys tribulations runs
his obsession with New York Giants
star, Frank Giford. In Exleys zero
sum world, life is divided between
the misfts (himself) and the
conformists (Giford). He travels in
a world of sallow-faced deadbeats,
of chronic drunks, of the insane,
each step forward met with fve
steps back. Yet Exley is touched with
genius; he writes like an angel; his
portrayals are vivid, sharp, and
hilarious; sucker punch portraits of
the conmen, rubes and mad men he
lives, works and drinks with. Those
expecting a happy ending will be
disappointed, but this is not a book
that disappoints in any other way.
The best book you have never heard
of. Harper & Row, 1968
THE GRAND HYATT
DOHA, QATAR
208
Doha is not the most exciting city in
the region, despite its cultural
ambitions, and the Grand Hyatt fits
in a little too well here. The property
itself is fine, but no more than that
the grounds are what you would
expect, and the private beach is only
usable four months of the year. Its
location does not help; a good 30
minutes from the airport and most
of the citys attractions. There are
pluses: the breakfast buffet is
delicious; the service impeccable.
The rooms were nice without being
mind-blowing and overall it is what
you would expect a decent hotel.
One element worth mentioning is
Isaan, which serves some of the best
Thai food we have tasted in the
region. Unfortunately though, this
is the lone bright spot in what is
ultimately a very average hotel,
INTERNET SPEED: 1MB, Free
PILLOWS: Four
IPOD DOCK: Yes
CLUB SANDWICH DELIVERY TIME:
21 minutes
COMPLIMENTARY SNACKS: Tea &
coffee, breakfast, evening drinks
TOILETRY BRAND: Pure
DAILY NEWSPAPER: The Peninsula
EXTRAS: CD/DVD player
TV CHANNELS: 48
BUSINESS CENTRE: Yes
VIEW: 1/5
RATE: From $370
DOHA. GRAND. HYATT. COM
ROOM
OS10_045-045_RoomBooked.indd 45 11/21/11 3:51:31 PM
46
MOSCOW
MAPPED
Money makes the world go round and this is no
more true than in Moscow; brimming with high-
spending oligarchs who punish their plastic in
the citys designer stores, stylish restaurants
and cool clubs, it can be hard for mere mortals
to keep up. Tremayne Carew Pole explores the
frenetic Russian capital.
WWW.HG2.COM
HOTELS
1. Ararat Park Hyatt 2. Hotel National 3. Mamaison All-Suites 4. Golden Apple
Spa Hotel Pokrovka
RESTAURANTS
. Caf Pushkin 6. Galereya 7. Kvartira 44 8. CDL Restaurant
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MOSCOW
BARS / CLUBS
9. City Space 10. Club Che 11. Garage 12. Soho Rooms
Bar and Lounge
GALLERIES
13. Tretyakov Gallery 14. Zurab Tsereteli Art Gallery 15. Diehl + Gallery One 16. Garage Centre for
Contemporary Culture
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48
MOSCOW
MAPPED
HOTELS
4 GOLDEN APPLE
Kitschy and fun, this
boutique hotel boasts a
19th-century faade but a
modern and minimalist
interior. The staff are
dressed in designer black
to juxtapose the hotels
colour-coded oors.
2 HOTEL NATIONAL
Built in 1903 and now
restored to its pre-
revolution glory, the
National is an eclectic
mix of classical and style-
moderne. Expect high
ceilings, ne dining, and a
great view of the Kremlin.
1 ARARAT PARK HYATT
Its prime location and
impeccable service makes
this ve-star hotel an
easy favourite. Despite its
marbled pillars and grand
exterior, its 216 rooms are
ultra-contemporary and
extremely spacious.
3 MAMAISON ALL-SUITES
SPA HOTEL POKROVKA
This glamorous boutique
hotel features Art Deco
interiors and sleek
furnishings. And lets not
forget the spa facilities
the sauna, Turkish baths
and pool are legendary.
RESTAURANTS
6 GALEREYA
The most exclusive
restaurant in town. The
rich and famous can
be found feasting on
an eclectic menu of
European fusion. Dont
even bother showing up
without a reservation.
7 KVARTIRA 44
Chilled by day and
crowded by night, this
cosy ex-apartment is
popular with trendy
Muscovites. Caf fare and
home-style Russian food
is served with live music
on during the weekends.
8 CDL RESTAURANT
Adorned with crystal
chandeliers and
replaces, this mansion is
the grandest dining room
in Moscow. Its menu
offers Russian classics
such as pelmeni, sh stew
and rabbit stroganoff.
5 CAF PUSHKIN
Feel like a Russian
aristocrat circa 1825 at
Moscows most legendary
literary caf. Open 24
hours a day, it attracts
hipsters and businessmen
alike. The dessert platter
is not to be missed.
GALLERIES
13 TRETYAKOV GALLERY
This castle houses the
worlds best repository
of Russian art. Allow at
least half a day to soak in
masterpieces such as Ilya
Repins Ivan the Terrible,
and Rublyovs revered
Holy Trinity.
14 ZURAB TSERETELI
ART GALLERY
Preserves the genius of
Zurab Tsereteli, a Russian
contemporary artist.
Massive bronze sculptures,
enamel panels and
graphic paintings vie for
space throughout.
15 DIEHL + GALLERY ONE
Owned by respected
Berlin-based dealer Volker
Diehl, contemporary
Russian and Asian artists
feature in this small but
succinct collection of
paintings and sculptures
with an international twist.
16 GARAGE CENTER FOR
CONTEMPORARY CULTURE
The brainchild of Russian
socialite Dasha Zhukova,
this ex-bus depot has
become a hub of modern
Soviet constructivism.
Regular workshops, talks and
performances are held here.
BARS/CLUBS
9 CITY SPACE BAR
AND LOUNGE
Perched on top of the
Swisstel, this bar offers
breathtaking 360-degree
views. Enjoy a cocktail
menu of Russian classics
and mixology creations
amidst pumping music.
10 CLUB CHE
A club as legendary as its
namesake, this lively bar/
club/restaurant serves
arguably what is the best
mojito in the city. Tequila
girls, salsa music and a
small dance oor makes
for a crazy night out.
11 GARAGE
Open 24/7, the car-
themed Garage is where
youll nd revellers
partying through the
night, every night. Its
R&B parties and ght
club nights make for a
truly decadent weekend.
12 SOHO ROOMS
Beautiful people, great
music and a strict door
policy this exclusive
venue has it all. The
restaurant is known for
haute cuisine, but its the
rooftop pool that attracts
Moscows elite.
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50
FLICK
CELLULOID DISSECTED
W
e tend to think of the
movie industry as a
hotbed of capitalist
consumerism, existing purely
to wring vast profts from the
general populace in return for
a few hours of entertainment.
Indeed, we appear happy to put up
with this as long as it remains an
open and acknowledged truism
we throw down the cash, they
serve us our regular fx of whizz-
bang escapism. Fine. At least were
all on the same page here, right?
Well, maybe. We certainly used
to be: during Hollywoods early
golden age of the 1930s to 1940s,
government censorship and the rigid
studio system held down by the big
fve (Paramount, Warner Bros, RKO,
Fox, MGM) meant that any silver
screen subversion of the Wests push
towards a consumer-driven utopia
could be easily quashed.
However, skip forward a few
decades and the movie landscape
looks very diferent. Since the
mid-1970s, anti-capitalist themes
have reoccurred not only in the
independent flm sector; bizarrely,
mainstream Hollywood is
increasingly tolerant of them. Why?
Ironically, it turns out theyre an
excellent way to spin a big fat proft.
There have always been flms
whose central premise condemned
rampant greed as immoral (Its
A Wonderful Life being a prime
early example). With the frenzied
spending boom of the 1980s,
resentment towards corporate-
fronted runaway consumerism in
less binary forms began to surface
more regularly. Sometimes these
sentiments were the clear basis for
an entire movie (Fight Club, Erin
Brockovich, American Beauty),
while others opted for more subtle
comment, pitched at audiences who
may not spot the subtext (Dawn Of
The Dead, WALL-E).
Among the more recent
blockbusters, Avatar provides a
particularly fascinating case study.
Upon its release, director James
Cameron was accused of having
made a flm that was anti-corporate,
anti-military, and even anti-
American. This wasnt a particularly
radical reading of it, either:
OS10_050-051_Flick.indd 50 11/21/11 3:52:46 PM
51
CELLULOID DISSECTED
Camerons tale of unscrupulous
humans destroying the native Navi
culture to mine precious minerals
on far-fung Pandora was clearly
and unapologetically analogous to
numerous recent global conficts,
many of which are widely cited
as driving the interests of shady
multinational corporations.
And yet, talking of big business,
Avatar quickly became the frst flm
ever to take more than $2 billion at
the box ofce. Its been clear for years
that Western cinema audiences have
developed a taste for anti-capitalist
sentiment in the movies what
Avatar made even clearer is that well
gladly line the cofers of an already
spectacularly rich and powerful
industry in order to get our fx.
In other words, it starts to look as
though were getting our dual roles as
movie consumers and social critics
very muddled indeed. So whats
really happening here? Is it as simple
as saying Hollywood has noticed our
addiction to anti-consumerist dogma
and called our bluf by selling it back
to us at a premium?
There is surely an element of knee-
jerk opportunism underpinning this.
However, a more intriguing (if
also more depressing) theory claims
that even our most overtly anti-
consumerist flms might not be doing
at all what we think they are. Rather,
by openly critiquing capitalist-driven
models of society while failing to
ofer any viable alternative, they
instead send us scurrying for the
next best option: a conscious efort to
consume in a way that disassociates
us from the herd. In other words, by
functioning more as critiques of mass
society than of consumerism, these
flms are in fact sowing the seeds of
competitive consumerism.
This theory states that it doesnt
matter which end of the consumer
scale we align ourselves with; that
the choices we make will become
mainstream, and when they do, we
go in search of the next thing.
If the concept of rebellious
consumerism serves corporate
interests as efectively as mass
conformity, perhaps the frst rule of
Fight Club should simply have been
dont watch it. Were pretty sure the
Tyler Durden, would approve.
FIGHT CLUB FIGHT CLUB FIGHT CLUB FIGHT CLUB FIGHT CLUB
HOLLYWOOD AND THE MYTH
OF THE CONSUMER
BY MARK POWELL
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52
LOU-ISE
GABOR SZABO
A proper Jazz groove,
recorded live in Boston
in 1967. This track is
pure art.
MIDNIGHT AT THE OASIS
MARIA MULDAUR
As soon as my mum bought
this record I fell in love with it
straightaway. Its a great folk song
and reminds me of the beach and
of coconut water and holidays!
Her voice makes me feel
so relaxed.
Z CANJICA
JORGE BEN & TRIO MOCOT
Defnitely my favourite Brazilian
singer. This track represents a lot
to me. I remember my parents
playing this tune every single
New Years Eve in Brazil.
NEM O MAR SABIA
LUIZ CARLOS VINHAS
Luiz Carlos Vinhas was a fantastic
Brazilian Bossa Nova pianist and
this track always gives me goose
bumps. Many incredible musicians
played in this track including Raul
de Souza on the trombone and the
famous Brazilian drummer,
Edison Machado.
DINORAH DINORAH
IVAN LINS
A classic Ivan Lins track,
recorded by the mighty
George Benson.
SKYPOD
BRAZILIAN DRUM & BASS ICON DJ MARKY HTTP://SOUNDCLOUD.COM/DJ-MARKY
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YELLOW SHOES
DJ MARKY & S.P.Y
Its difcult to say something
about this track, other than
it means a lot to me. This
is specially dedicated to a
special person!
DO IT GOOD
A TASTE OF HONEY
When I heard this tune I told
my mum that I wanted to go to
the disco, but unfortunately I
was too young. The groove of
this track is simply incredible.
A true Disco-Funk classic.
RAPPIN
KURTIS BLOW
I love Rappers Delight by The
Sugarhill Gang but when I
frst heard this track at my
sisters birthday party back
in 1980, it blew my mind. A
proper party tune!
EVEN IF CALIBRE
Dominick Martin, aka
Calibre, is my favourite drum
& bass producer. The lyrics
are incredible and the vocal
his own is beautiful. I
always play this track.
WILD TIMES [CHOICE MIX]
DE-LITE
A classic House track in Brazil.
I used to play this track all the
time and it brings to mind one
of the greatest DJs in Brazil: DJ
Ricardo Guedes.
BRAZILIAN DRUM & BASS ICON DJ MARKY HTTP://SOUNDCLOUD.COM/DJ-MARKY
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55
LOCAL VOICES
THE MANY SHADES
OF CONSUMERISM
MAKING
THE CHOICE
AWARENESS OF HOW AND WHY WE CONSUME IS THE
FIRST STEP TO A BETTER LIFE SAYS WAEL AL SAYEGH
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he word consume derives
from the Latin consumere,
with the literal meaning
to take completely. Nowadays an
immediate association is made with
malls and high streets full of shops
and their contents, but there are
other aspects of consumption that
are worthy of attention. Not least of
these are the effects that different
kinds of consumption can produce,
and the difference between active
consumption and being consumed
by the things we own and the
emotions we experience.
Over-consumption of food,
combined with a lack of physical
exercise, creates the prominent
modern-day problem of obesity
in the worlds better-off regions.
For example, its not uncommon in
Dubai, where its cheap to eat out but
often too hot to do much walking, to
see physically fit newcomers gain
a Dubai Pound or two in weight.
Whether their consumption is of
high-fat, fast food or rich gourmet
repasts, too much indulgence results
in a loss of fitness.
A side effect of obesity is that
it can also impair mental agility.
Exercise leading to oxygenation
of the brain has been shown to
improve clear thinking. And, of
course, in Dubai one can consume
the services offered by the many
gyms, dance studios, yoga classes
and other activities to counteract
the effects of over-indulgence.
The notion of consumption also
describes less tangible things. TV
programmes are consumed, often
mindlessly, and they are grist to the
mill of how we feel and think about
the world. Endless consumption of
news channels, for example, can
lead to a cynical view that sees only
sufering, corruption, starvation,
rioting or war. Whereas watching
nothing but game shows and other
OS10_055-057_ColumnBHIST.indd 55 11/21/11 3:54:51 PM
56
easily digested oferings might dull
the minds critical faculties, or numb
it to the very real problems there are
in the world. Then again, programmes
with a theme of discovery and
intellectual quest, or an uplifting
story, real or fctional, can provoke
a desire in their audiences to seek a
better way of living, and all for the
price of a movie theatre ticket or a
satellite TV subscription fee. We live
in a time where remote controls and
digital dials can be as powerful as
tanks and warplanes. The music we
listen to has a noticeable infuence
on mood and emotions, consciously
and subconsciously. In an exercise
class, an upbeat melody and rhythm
encourage vigorous activity.
Relaxation, on the other hand,
demands something cooler, calmer,
and soothing. Some claim that
listening to music with lyrics
glorifying violence, alcohol and drug
abuse can pull the listener unwittingly
into a milieu they did not plan to be
involved with. Music with certain
rhythms and beats mixed with
empowering words can have a huge
motivational efect. Its sometimes
used to treat depression, getting
peoples hands pumping the air with
the excitement of new potential.
Our possessions can occupy a large
part of our consciousness. The cars,
houses, jewellery, clothes, shoes,
watches, the holidays we take, and
the general desire to keep up in
the consumption stakes, obtaining
the latest trade-marked clothes
or the newest gadgets, provide
short-term joy and satisfaction.
Once Hollywoods
most celebrated
leading man, Marlon
Brando was eating
peanut butter by the
jarful as early as 1950
(when he was only
26). He would go on
crash diets before his
movies, but as he got
older, even these
measures stopped
working and his
weight ballooned. A
giant of the cinema in
more ways than one.
While at Cambridge
Charles Darwin was
President of the
Glutton Club, which
met once a week to eat
strange esh. He tried
hawk, owl, armadillo
and once, an unnamed
20lb brown rodent. All
in the name of science,
you understand.
Fatty Arbuckle was the
highest paid actor in
the world at one time,
and also had a fond-
ness for food, women
and, er, more food.
Named Baloonatic
by his fans, he died of
a heart attack at 46,
plagued by scandals.
Millionaire Gilded
Age entrepreneur
and American glutton
extraordinaire
Diamond Jim Brady
made his millions from
the railway business,
but made headlines for
his massive appetite.
Apparently fond of
multl-course steak
and sh breakfasts,
after his death doctors
discovered a stomach
six times larger than a
normal humans.
1924 1809 1887 1856
A BRIEF HISTORY OF GLUTTONS
57
But this conspicuous consumption
may also lead to disillusionment,
dissatisfaction, and even to longer-
term despair, particularly if these
things are purchased with credit
beyond the means to repay.
Strong emotions can be all
consuming. Love, hate, anger, fear,
disappointment, these skew our
behaviour and, left uncontrolled,
distort our relations with the world
and with those we love. Experts in
emotional intelligence believe that
the states of love and happiness stem
not from an absence of negative
emotions, but from harnessing the
force of positive ones to take us on
a powerful journey where we are in
control of events rather than being
controlled by our emotions.
Obsession with the past or with
the future can also consume the
mind and emotions. Constant
preoccupation with what has
occurred in the past, or becoming lost
in anticipation of the future, leaves
us at odds with the here and now.
Too much concern for a perceived
better past removes value from
people and events in the present.
Too much regret for past mistakes
burdens us with a guilt that can
prevent us from learning by them
and moving on. Worry about the
future can also stultify progress in
the here and now. The American
self-help guru Anthony Robbins says
that a compelling future is the food
on which our souls thrive. Focusing
on the possible negatives in the
future eats up our time and energy.
Awareness is where it all starts.
LOCAL VOICES
Dzhambik Khatokhov
is 12 years old, weighs
more than 146kg and
is determined to win a
gold medal for Russia
at the Olympics. His
wrestling trainer strug-
gles to nd partners
for him, and some
doubt whether he will
live long enough to
compete. His mother is
unrepentant: He is just
growing upwards and
outwards. What can I do
about it?
Probably the most
famous glutton of all,
Elvis Presley got
through at least 10,000
calories per day; some
of his favourite snacks
including barbecued
spaghetti, peanut
butter and deep-fried
white bread. He died
sitting on the toilet.
1999 1935
Michael Phelps is a
swimming legend.
He is also a legend of
gluttony; typically eat-
ing more than 12,000
calories per day, includ-
ing chocolate-chip
pancakes, a ve-egg
omelette, French toast
and two cups of coffee
(and thats just for
breakfast). Of course, he
gets away with this due
to his six-hour a day
workouts. Dont try this
at home kids.
1985
Japanese nutjob
Takeru Kobayashi trav-
els the world eating as
much as he can, as fast
as he can. Despite his
small size, he can put
away 69 hot dogs in ten
minutes and is the best
competitive eater in
the world. His mother
must be proud.
1978
seddiqi.com
Its time to nurture.
Hassan Abdulmagied Ahmed Seddiqi, Vice President of Human Resources, joined the
company in 2007 and has implemented several Human Resource initiatives that has
resulted in a variety of internal growth opportunities for new and existing employees.
59
INTERVIEW
MY
TRAVELLED LIFE
ROBERTO CAVALLI , 71, DESI GNER
ON TRAVEL
Travelling is an essential part of my life.
I have collections to design, product lines
being added to the Cavalli brand, as well as
boutiques and clubs opening all over the
world. However, I use the world around me
as my inspiration. When I am designing, I
try to use things and places that I have seen
as inspiration. Travelling gives me piece of
mind as well as inspiration.
ON THE SEA
I absolutely love the sea; the Mediterranean is
simply spectacular. I love to explore coastlines
in my dinghy, thats when Im completely at
peace with the world
ON PHOTOGRAPHY
Photography is one of my great loves, Im not
a professional photographer of course, but
Im always taking pictures to remember the
beauty I see. The prints in my Roberto Cavalli
Collection are usually inspired by some of the
photos that I have taken.
ON LOVE
I remember going on holiday when I was
very young, before I was married. I set out
on a small boat from Tuscany and ended up
sailing to Turkey. If I remember correctly, at
the time I was absolutely crazy about a girl
I met there. What an amazing trip that was.
ON EXPLORATION
Im a very curious person by nature, and I
am always open to trying new experiences.
I love going to new places, somewhere less
obvious to the everyday traveller. Places
such as Antarctica or Papua New Guinea are
fascinating to me.
ON PACKING LIGHT
I dont really worry about packing when
I go away; I like to keep it very simple. I
make sure that I always pack jeans, T-shirts,
black or white shirts, my boots and my
digital camera. I also make sure that when
travelling I wear comfortable clothes.
Comfort is the most important thing.
ON RETROSPECTION
If I could give any advice to my younger
self, it would be to always believe in myself.
That is the most important thing. When
you are not sure, you show weakness. To be
strong you have to show your power, not
muscle power but brainpower. If you shoot
people with the energy of your mind you
become something special.
OS10_059-059_Skycats.indd 59 11/21/11 3:57:35 PM
60
COPENHAGEN WWW.STREETPEEPER.COM F^SHO SPOTTER PHL OH CHECKS OUT COPEH^CES COOLEST
STREET PEEP ER
M^R^ HELLE
SHOP ASSISTANT
Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair
top, pants, and shoes
Bruuns Bazaar bag
TOB^S
Christian Dior jacket
Uniglo T-shirt
Dr Martens shoes
FRE wLKSO
STUDENT
Visvim shirt
Whyre jeans
Nike shoes
M^RE HDKÊR
PHOTOGRAPHER
All vintage
OS10_060-060_Peeper.indd 60 11/21/11 3:58:35 PM
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SHOP OWNER
APC shirt and coat
Cold Rice bag
M^R^ LEOH^RDT
SHOP OWNER
Maison Martin Margiela
shoes and dress
Rick Owens cardigan,
tights, and tanktop
JESPER

Henrik Vibskov shirt
Tiger of Sweden jeans
Nike shoes
TRE
SHOP ASSISTANT

Henrik Vibskov sweater
OS10_060-060_Peeper.indd 61 11/21/11 3:59:09 PM
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ARCHI TECTURE MAPPED SELFRI DGES DEPARTMENT STORE B RM CH^M, ECL^D BULT 2008
PLACE
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panerai . com
art
and
science.
luminor 1950 10 days gmt - 44mm
Available exclusively at Panerai boutiques and select authorized watch specialists.
Dubai - Panerai Boutique, Dubai Mall, +971 4 339 8444, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, Wa City, +971 4 324 6060,
Mall of the Emirates, +971 4 341 1211
Abu Dhabi - Al Manara Jewellery, Hamdan Street +971 2 627 2222, Abu Dhabi Mall, +971 2 645 7575
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TEXT: NINA SIEGAL/IMAGE: EWOUT HUIBERS WWW.EWOUT.TV
STORE
64
URBAN CARTOGRAPHYMAZZOAMSTERDAM RESTAURANT
I
f theres any one group that
has defined a signature look
for Amsterdams culinary
culture in the past decade, its that of
architectural design firm Concrete and
restaurant developer IQ Creative.
Their joint credits include some of
the citys iconic venues: Supperclub,
Nomads, Envy, Vyne, Nevy and
Heinekenhoek. These have a somewhat
distinctive look: minimalist chic with
industrial elements such as raw steel or
exposed piping, mixed with high-end
design chairs or lamps.
They work from the inside out,
starting with a lifestyle concept and
building the visual elements, the menu,
the service philosophy, and the overall
feel of the place around that idea.
So when Concrete director Rob
Wagemans was asked by IQ Creative to
develop a concept for a restaurant in the
former disco Mazzo, he set out to solve
a very Amsterdam problem. In a city of
compact apartments, with living rooms
that can just barely fit a couch and a
coffee table, where can people just hang
out with friends?
We wanted to create a kind of living
room for the neighbourhood, says
Wagemans, It should be a space that is
busy from morning to night, and if you
want to have lunch at 3pm or 11pm, that
shouldnt be a problem. You can also
just be there all day and have one cup of
cofee and no one will bother you.
The model for the space already existed
in the Concrete/IQ oeuvre: Brasserie
OS10_064-065_Store.indd 64 11/21/11 4:00:38 PM
65
URBAN CARTOGRAPHYMAZZOAMSTERDAM RESTAURANT
Witteveen, a French restaurant in the
De Pjip district. With its open-plan
design, long banks of Chesterfeld sofas,
inexpensive meals and breakfast, lunch
and dinner served all day, Witteveen was
incredibly popular because it flled a gap
in Amsterdams cultural scene that no
one knew needed to be flled.
At Mazzo, they swapped the menu
from French to Italian, focusing on
thin-crust pizzas and espresso drinks,
and used one wall of the space to build a
giant pine cupboard, in which they could
store all the ingredients they use in the
kitchen, such as extra virgin olive oils,
cofee beans and bags of risotto.
They brought in the Chesterfeld sofas
and spider lamps, day-long menu and
many of the other elements that made
Witteveen successful. Exposed brick,
drywall and piping, blackboard walls
(on which notes and menu ideas are
scrawled) and long wooden tables that
can be shared with strangers, added to an
informal, living room vibe.
To link the new restaurant to
Amsterdams cool clubbing past, they
kept the name Mazzo, which they
emblazoned in giant amusement park
lights on the wall, making the space
feel instantly iconic. Its the sister of
Witteveen, says Wagemans, who says
hes planning to add more locations.
Maybe in Amsterdam, maybe in some
other city; I cant tell you that yet.
Mazzo, Rozengracht 114, Amsterdam
(020) 344 64 02; www.mazzoamsterdam.nl
OS10_064-065_Store.indd 65 11/21/11 4:00:41 PM
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SOME OF THE W0RLDS
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OS10_069-069_Calendar.indd 69 11/21/11 4:02:08 PM
MAIN
I. 72 VlENNA'S MOZAPT TPAlL P. 94 MlCHELlN'S FALLlNG STAPS I. !0 THE SClENCE OF BUYlNG
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OS10_072-080_Mozart.indd 72 11/21/11 5:56:41 PM
ON the
Mozart found freedom, love and success in
Vienna. Kerry Christiani follows in his footsteps
to opulent Hapsburg palaces, coffee houses and
concert halls where more than 250 years since
his death his music and legacy live on
trail in
vienna
MOzart
PHOTO: KIM ERLANDSEN
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OS10_072-080_Mozart.indd 73 11/21/11 5:56:43 PM
74
MOZART
N
o other Austrian composer
has captured the worlds
imagination like Mozart.
In his prolifc 35-year
life, Amadeus rocked
the musical world with some 600
compositions, spanning every major
genre from symphonies to opera,
concertos to chamber music. He gave
new meaning to the 18th-century
Classical style and dazzled the world
with his creative genius.
Born in a cramped apartment in
Salzburgs old town in 1756, Mozart
was the ultimate wunderkind. He
identifed a pigs squeal as G sharp
aged two, could play the clavier by
the age of three and was composing
minor works by the age of fve. His
father Leopold, a concertmaster at
the archiepiscopal court, was quick
to spot and promote little Wolfgangs
talents. At the tender age of six
Mozart performed for an enraptured
Empress Maria Theresa in Vienna
and, before long, every palace
in Europe was talking about the
prodigy from Salzburg.
Back then, fame didnt
automatically mean fortune. In
1772 Mozart was appointed a court
musician in Salzburg for the humble
sum of 150 forins a year. He felt
stifed and undervalued there, and
yearned to escape the clutches of
Prince-Archbishop Colloredo, a
tyrannical philistine who he hated to
the point of madness.
Receiving a farewell kick up the
arse from the Salzburg court in 1781,
Mozart found his spiritual home in
Vienna and became his own master.
The 10 years he spent there were his
happiest and most creative. Though
he frequently performed for royalty
and was celebrated for operas like
The Marriage of Figaro and Don
Giovanni, Mozart and his family
often struggled to make ends meet.
His pleasures were, therefore, simple
ones dancing, beating Haydn at
billiards and teaching his pet starling
to whistle the odd piano concerto.
Mozart died suddenly in 1791,
leaving his famous Requiem
unfnished, and was buried in
an unmarked grave in St Marks
Cemetery, Vienna. Speculations of
murder and dodgy pork chops aside,
the probable cause of his death was
rheumatic fever.
Morning
Your morning begins tracing
Mozarts six-year-old footsteps
back to 1762 and his frst-ever public
appearance at Schnbrunn Palace,
a short U-Bahn ride southwest of
the city centre. Walking through
the manicured French gardens that
sweep up to the former Hapsburg
summer palace, you can imagine
how daunting this debut must have
been for little Wolfgang, dressed in
his fnery and best powdered wig.
Of the palaces 1441 sumptuous
rooms, 40 are now open to the public,
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The ten years Mozart
spent in Vienna were
his happiest and his
most productive
including the Versailles-like Hall
of Mirrors where Mozart won the
favour of Empress Maria Theresa and
her family. After the performance,
an unabashed Wolferl leapt onto Her
Majestys lap, threw his arms around
her neck and planted kisses on her
face, wrote his father. Not content
with kissing the empress, he then
proposed to a seven-year-old Marie
Antoinette, future queen of France,
when she comforted him after he fell
on the palaces slippery marble foors.
A stroll through the sculpture-
strewn grounds brings you to the
Orangery where, some 24 years later,
Mozart did musical battle against
Antonio Salieri by command of
Franz Josef II sadly losing out to his
rival. The baroque building is now a
characterful backdrop for concerts of
Mozarts music, performed in 18th-
century costume at 8.30pm daily.
Mozart lived at a dozen diferent
addresses in Viennas historic centre
or Innere Stadt. Rising above the
labyrinth of narrow streets is Gothic
St Stephens Cathedral. Nicknamed
Stef (little Stephen) by the
Viennese, the cathedral is where
Mozart married Constanze in 1782,
where his sons Karl Thomas and
Franz Xaver were christened, and
where his funeral was held in 1791.
Its worth the dizzying 343-step
climb to the South Towers viewpoint
to see this city of graceful domes and
spires spread out before you.
Close by is Graben, Viennas
smartest shopping street, which
retains an old-world feel with its
ornate facades and horse-drawn
Fiaker. Mozart lived briefy at No.
17 - now Pension Nossek - where he
composed The Abduction from the
Seraglio. Not far of is Milchgasse
No. 1, next to St Peters Church,
where romance blossomed between
Mozart and Constanze Weber in 1781,
after her sister Aloysia rejected his
advances. Never one to mince his
words, Mozart described Constanze
as not ugly, but also far from
beautiful. Looks aside, she made
Mozart a fne wife and their marriage
was happy, despite fnancial
struggles and bouts of ill-health.
From here its a short walk to the
House of the Teutonic Order on
Singerstrasse, where the courtyard
bears a marble plaque noting the
composers brief stay in 1781. Tired
of being treated like a lackey, this
is where Mozart informed Prince-
Archbishop Colloredo that he wouldnt
be returning to Salzburg, and was
unceremoniously ejected by the
SCHNBRUNN PALACE WHERE MOZART FIRST PERFORMED PUBLICALLY AT THE AGE OF SIX
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M Y
C K
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MOZART
chamberlain with a kick up the arse.
Afternoon
By now youll have worked up an
appetite and its just a few minutes
walk along Rauhensteingasse to Caf
Frauenhuber. On the way youll pass
Stef department store, built on the
site of Mozarts deathplace, which
commemorates the genius with a
plaque and bust.
Entering Caf Frauenhuber is like
stepping back in time. Opened in 1824,
this is Viennas oldest cofee house
and one of its most authentic, with
vaulting and worn red velvet lending it
an air of faded grandeur. Mozart gave
concertos at the caf-restaurant that
once stood here, and this is also where
Graham Greene wrote the script for
The Third Man. Such history is served
today over strong cofee, decadent
cakes and Viennese classics like
wiener schnitzel.
Heading back towards the
cathedral and down the cobbled
Domgasse you reach the
Mozarthaus, where the Mozarts
lived from 1784 to 1787. The
interactive three-foor museum,
opened in 2006 as part of Mozarts
250th birthday celebrations, ofers a
wonderful insight into the man and
his music. Mozart may have been in
debt on his deathbed, but his lovingly
restored frst-foor apartment recalls
fusher times, and it was here that
he wrote some of his most brilliant
works like comic opera The Marriage
of Figaro.
Several blocks south on
Seilersttte, the Haus der Musik takes
a hands-on approach in spotlighting
Austrias famous composers. The
highlight which would surely have
tickled Mozarts childish sense of
humour is virtually conducting the
Vienna Philharmonic through Eine
Kleine Nachtmusik.
The knack is getting the rhythm
right - swing your electronic baton
too fast or too slow and the orchestra
storms out in a rage. Bear in mind
Mozarts words: Music should never
be painful to the ear but should fatter
and charm it, and thereby always
remain music.
Nearby is the stately Burggarten,
ofering shady respite on summer
days. The parks centrepiece is a
dashing Mozart statue. Set high on a
pedestal and surrounded by music-
making cherubs, the composer is
more imposing here than he would
have been in real life at just fve
foot four. From spring to autumn, a
treble-clef-shaped fower bed blooms
at his feet.
Turn the corner and you are
confronted with the pomp and
splendour of the Imperial Palace,
where the Hapsburgs ruled Austria
for 640 years. Already a household
name aged 12, Mozart was granted
a two-hour audience here in 1768.
During his Vienna years, the 18th-
century socialite was a regular in
the palaces Redoutensaal, a gilded
baroque fantasy of a ballroom. Here
he attended masked balls where he
networked, danced and, presumably,
firted. If I had married everyone I

Mozart admitted he
would have more than
200 wives if he married
everyone he jested with
ST STEPHENS CATHEDRAL WHERE MOZART MARRIED IN 1782
OS10_072-080_Mozart.indd 77 11/21/11 5:57:01 PM
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She gave me
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ever yt hi ng
AD
jested with, I would have well over
200 wives, he quipped. The hall is
now the setting for somewhat touristy
Mozart-meets-Strauss concerts.
Evening
If Vienna looks historic by day, it is
by night that its history comes to
life. In Innere Stadt alleyways where
lanterns cast a soft, almost nostalgic,
glow on the cobbles, and the warmth
of jovial chatter and chinking
glasses fll cosy Beisl taverns, you
could be easily back in Mozarts
day. One of his favourite haunts was
Griechenbeisl on the Fleischmarkt.
Since opening in 1447, Viennas oldest
tavern has entertained Mozart and
other musical legends like Strauss
and Schubert, whose signatures
grace the ceiling in the Twain Room.
Though frmly on the tourist trail, the
warren of vaulted rooms is a highly
atmospheric place to tuck into hearty
fare like venison with black pudding
and drink spicy Burgenland wines.
On any given night, the opportunities
to hear Mozarts music in Vienna are
boundless. At the world-famous State
Opera, performances are as lavish
today as they were back in 1869 when
the opera house opened with Don
Giovanni. Always meticulous about his
appearance, Mozart would have been
suitably impressed by the well-dressed
crowds who gather to listen to his music
here and further along the Ringstrasse
at the neo-Classical Musikverein, home
to the Vienna Philharmonic.
Southwest of town near the foodie
Naschmarkt is Theater an der Wien,
built in 1801 by Emanuel Schikaneder,
the librettist of the Magic Flute and
the frst-ever Papageno. Following a
79
MOZART

On any given night the
opportunities to hear
Mozarts music in
Vienna are boundless
INSIDE VIENNAS STATE OPERA HOUSE, WHERE DON GIOVANNI WAS PERFORMED IN 1869
OS10_072-080_Mozart.indd 79 11/21/11 5:57:07 PM
Imperial Palace
Michaelerkuppel,
1st district
Tel: +43 (0) 1 533 75 70
U-Bahn: U3 Herrengasse
Griechenbeisl
Fleischmarkt 11,
1st district
Tel: +43 (0) 1 533 19 77
U-Bahn: U1, U4
Schwedenplatz
State Opera
Opernring 2, 1st district
Tel: +43 (0) 1 514 44-2250
U-Bahn: U1, U2, U4
Karlsplatz
Musikverein
Bsendorferstrasse 12,
1st district
Tel: +43 (0) 1 505 81 90
U-Bahn: U1, U2, U4
Karlsplatz
Theater an der Wien
Linke Wienzeile 6,
6th district
Tel: +43 (0) 1 588 30 200
U-Bahn: U1, U2, U4
Karlsplatz
mammoth overhaul, this is once again
a superb venue to appreciate Mozarts
operas and chamber music.
And so it is through music that
Mozart lives on today; the sound of his
uplifting symphonies drifting from
concert halls is every bit as Viennese
as the mighty Danube and the chime of
St Stephens Cathedral. And you dont
need to be rich to enjoy his music either
take the lead of the man himself, who
would have been just as at ease in the
cheap seats as the royal box.
Kerry Christiani is a German-based writer.
She has written for Lonely Planet and AA.
Addresses
Schnbrunn Palace
Schnbrunner Schlossstrasse,
13th district
Tel: +43 (0) 1 811 13 239
U-Bahn: U4 Schnbrunn
St Stephens Cathedral
Stephansplatz, 1st district
Tel: +43 (0) 1 513 76 48
U-Bahn: U1, U3 Stephansplatz
House of the Teutonic Order
Singerstrasse 7, 1st district
Caf Frauenhuber
Himmelpfortgasse 6,
1st district
Tel: +43 (0) 1 512 53 53
Mozarthaus
Domgasse 5, 1st district
Tel: +43 (0) 1 512 17 91
Haus der Musik
Seilersttte 30, 1st district
Tel: +43 1 513 48 50
U-Bahn: U1, U2, U4 Karlsplatz
80
MOZART

The sound of his
symphonies is as every
bit Viennese as the
mighty Danube
OS10_072-080_Mozart.indd 80 11/21/11 5:57:08 PM
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By tom foley
no logo
did sao paulo's advertising
experiment work?
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o Paulo is a gritty,
sprawling metropolis
of more than 11 million
people. Its the largest city
in South America and
Brazils economic powerhouse. Its
also a place where, a few years ago,
something very strange happened.
In 2007, So Paulo became the frst
major city outside of the communist
world to put into law a radical, near-
complete ban on outdoor advertising.
The idea was the brainchild of
the mayor, Gilberto Kassab, who
declared the proliferation of outdoor
advertising to be visual pollution.
At the time, advertising and
marketing executives feared the ban
would be an insurmountable blow,
and quietly hoped the law would
not be fully enforced. Industry
representatives protested that the ban
would limit freedom of speech, kill
jobs and badly damage their sector.
Unfortunately for them, the ban was
enforced but not without a struggle.
Border, the Brazilian Association of
Advertisers, was up in arms over
the move. In a statement released on
October 2, the date on which law PL
379/06 was formally approved by the
city council, Border called the new
laws unreal, inefective and fascist.
It pointed to the tens of thousands
of small businesses that would
have to bear the burden of altering
their shopfronts under regulations
unknown in their virulence in any
other city in the world. A prediction
of US$133 million in lost advertising
revenue for the city surfaced in the
press, while the So Paulo outdoor
media owners association, Sepex,
warned that 20,000 people would
lose their jobs.
Others predicted that the city
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would look even worse with the ads
removed, a bland concrete jungle
replacing the chaos of the present.
North Korea and communist Eastern
Europe were cited as indicative
of what was to come. I think this
city will become a sadder, duller
place, Dalton Silvano, the only city
councillor to vote against the laws
and (not entirely coincidentally) an
ad executive, was quoted as saying
in the International Herald Tribune.
Advertising is both an art form and,
when youre in your car, or alone on
foot, a form of entertainment that
helps relieve solitude and boredom,
he claimed.
The move was welcomed by
the public. The law was formally
introduced in January 2007 with
a 90-day compliance period,
supposedly giving everyone time to
take down any posters or signs that
did not meet the new regulations or
face a fne of up to $4,500 per day.
Throughout that period, the citys
workmen were busy dismantling
around 100 sites per day, occasionally
supervised personally by Kassab, a
man with an obvious eye for a photo
opportunity.
He set up telephone hotlines where
citizens could report instances of
advertisers breaking the law. Some
days, we had 3,000 calls on those
lines, he says contentedly. Kassab
says that So Paulos lead is being
followed by Buenos Aires, and some
European cities but not London
have sent missions to have a look
at his citys experience. Regina
Monteiro, a colleague, says: The ads
flled our eyes with nothing.
Billboards, outdoor video
screens and ads on buses and
taxis were quickly removed across
the city after the law took efect.
Even pamphleteering in public
spaces was made illegal, and
strict new regulations drastically
diminished the allowable size of
storefront signage. Without its
15,000 billboards, the city felt like

Without its billboards
the city felt like a
battlefield, strewn with
blank marquees and
painted over storefronts
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a battlefeld, strewn with blank
marquees, partially torn-down
frames and hastily painted-over
storefront fascias.
So Paolos ads were often the size
of the entire skyscrapers to which
they were afxed. The law was
hailed by writer Roberto Pompeu de
Toledo as a rare victory by the public
interest over private, of order over
disorder, aesthetics over ugliness, of
cleanliness over trash and for once,
all that is accustomed to coming out
on top in Brazil has lost.
Five years after the law came in, it
is extremely difcult to fnd outdoor
advertising in the city no billboards,
no ads on buses or taxis or in shop
windows. But equally remarkable is
how quickly big advertisers and the
industry itself have adapted and, in
fact, thrived.
In an interview with the FT, Marcio
Oliveira, vice-president of operations
at Lew Lara\TBWA admitted he was
not happy with the law before it came
in. We thought, OK, this is gonna
screw up all our business. In the frst
instance, everybody, including the
advertisers, loved this to see their
city without this visual pollution we
had in the past.
As shocking to some as the law
itself was the speed in which it was
set up. Usually in Brazil it takes
a little time for laws to get set up,
says Marcello Queiroz, an editor
at Propaganda and Marketing
newspaper in So Paulo, talking to
the FT.
It was really dramatic how quick
things changed. Big companies
had to change their focus and
strategies. Marketing directors
had to fnd a place to spend the
money they previously put into
billboards. The result, they say, was
a creative fowering of new and
alternative methods including
indoor innovations such as elevator
and bathroom ads but primarily in
digital media.
The internet was the really big
winner, says Oliveira. In 2007, there
was already a move towards the
internet, digital media and social
networking marketing worldwide, but
the advertising law gave Brazilians
an extra push, he told the FT.
The most obvious beneft was
visual, however. Surveys conducted
by So Paolos local media indicate
the measure is extremely popular
with the citys residents, with more
than 70 per cent approval. Mara
Machado, a student at the University
of So Paolo, is a strong supporter of
the law.
I like it this way, she says. We
can really see the city. According
to Machado, So Paolos physical
beauty was hidden behind big signs
and billboards. And now that more
than [fve years] has passed since
the ad ban went into efect, she
says landowners have beautifed
storefronts, fxed buildings and
improved how the city looks. Theres
already advertising in so many

Its better this way.
We can see the city
now. And Sao Paulo is
our city and we need to
take care of it
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places, she says. The city is ours and
we need to take care of it.
One embittered player in the battle
was U.S. multinational Clear Channel
Communications. The corporation
entered the Brazilian market in 1999,
purchasing a Brazilian subsidiary
as well as the rights to a large share
of the citys billboard market. Clear
Channel sponsored a counter-
campaign in support of billboards
that did not resonate with the masses.
Other businesses got more
resourceful. In an NPR On the Media
interview, Vinicius Galvao, a reporter
for Folha de So Paulo, Brazils largest
newspaper, mentions that, Big
banks, like Citibank, and big stores,
like Dolce & Gabbana, they started
painting themselves with very strong
colours, like yellow, red, deep blue,
and creating like visual patterns to
associate the brand to that pattern or
to that colour.
For example, Citibanks colour is
blue, he says. Theyre painting the
building in very strong blue so people
can see that from far away and they
can make an association with that
deep blue and Citibank.
In the years since the ban,
businesses have got more and more
creative, with the result that the city
has some of the most interesting
branding in the world.
For now then, the scheme has
worked, but with Kassabs term
ending next year (he won re-election
in 2008 with 69 per cent of the vote),
and with the World Cup due to arrive
in 2014 and the Olympics in 2016,
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The result of the ban
was a creative flowering
of new and alternative
media, particularly
digital media
it remains to be seen whether this
ban will remain. For now though the
mayor can be congratulated on an
initiative that worked. And brought
with it some unforseen advantages.
When the hoardings were removed,
many locals were shocked at the
state of the buildings and houses.
Renovation work has increased, and
there is a greater sense of pride.
This will continue unabated as
the country enters the spotlight in
the next fve years. Whether the
city can continue to resist the lure of
advertsing dollars remains to
be seen.
NO LOGO

When the hoardings
were removed, many
locals were shocked at
the state of the
buildings and houses
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95
MICHELIN HAS PRODUCED THE WORLDS MOST INFLUENTIAL
RESTAURANT GUIDES FOR MORE THAN 100 YEARS, BUT ITS
INFLUENCE AMONG CHEFS, FOOD CRITICS AND CONSUMERS IS WANING.
GARETH REES WONDERS IF MICHELIN IS LIVING ON BORROWED TIME
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aulieu. A small town in the
region of Burgundy in eastern
France. Population roughly
2,500 people. Fairly innocuous,
it boasts just a handful of famous sons,
one of whom, chef Bernard Loiseau,
made it famous. Saulieu has not often
been the setting for high drama or the
source of international news, but any
food lover worth his or her salt will
know the name, or at least the tragic
story, of Bernard Loiseau.
Born in Chamalieres in central France,
Loiseau trained at legendary French
restaurant La Maison Troisgros with
brothers Jean and Pierre Troisgros,
before moving on to work for chef
Claude Verger, and gaining the attention
of the Gault Millau guide as one of the
leading exponents of nouvelle cuisine.
In 1975, Verger put the young chef in
charge of La Cte dOr in Saulieu. In
1982 Loiseau bought the restaurant from
his mentor and in 1991 he achieved his
life-long goal, winning his third Michelin
star. Loiseau became a star himself.
He wrote books, launched a line of
frozen food and was even traded on the
stock exchange.
Then, on the evening of February
24, 2003, after a hard days slog in his
kitchen, the chef put the cold metal of a
hunting rife in his mouth, over the palate
that had helped make his name, and
pulled the trigger.
Why did such a successful chef
choose to end his life? Rumour
immediately began to circulate that
Michelin had informed Loiseau that
his La Cte DOr was going to lose its
precious third star. Newspaper stories
followed. A man was dead, and the
celebrated restaurant guide with more
than 100 years of history behind it was
to blame. The food world was ablaze
with speculation. Fellow three-star chef
Jacques Lameloise revealed that Loiseau
had once confded in him, If I lose a
star, Ill kill myself.
Lauded Le Figaro critic Francois
Simon has since stated that La Cte
DOr was living on borrowed time,
and many believe Loiseaus fear that
Michelin would take away his hard won
third star was at least partly to blame for
his death.
Michelin has said that Loiseau
had been informed that he would keep
his third star prior to his death, and it
has since been revealed that he was
deeply in dept and sufering from

How does a mere
restaurant guide amass
enough power to drive
a man to suicide? What
is the power of the star?
GEORGES POMPIDOU AT THE PARIS CAR SHOW IN 1973, WHERE MICHELIN FEATURED PROMINENTLY
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98
MICHELIN
clinical depression.
But it sounds like madness, doesnt
it? How does a mere restaurant guide
amass enough power to drive a man to
suicide? Or at least for people to accept
it as a possibility. Well, in Michelins
own words: the guides well-established
credibility is underpinned by the
expertise it has acquired over more
than a century.
First published in 1900 by tyre
manufacturer Andre Michelin and
distributed free to French motorists, the
Michelin Guide began awarding one
or two stars to outstanding restaurants
in 1926, adding the three-star rating in
1930. As of 2011, Michelin publishes
guides across Europe, as well as the
USA, Hong Kong and Japan. But does
its distinguished history and reputation
make its approval worth dying for?
British chef Marcus Wareing, whose
eponymous restaurant at The Berkley
in London holds two Michelin stars,
says the guides rating doesnt spark
fear in him, but winning his frst star
for Londons LOranger was, probably
the biggest shock of my life and the
most memorable day Ive ever had.
The Michelin Guide is perhaps the
longest running, its the father fgure
of restaurant accolades, he adds. Its
a link to our past, and I dont think that
should be forgotten.
Chef and patron of two Michelin
starred restaurants in London, Gary
Rhodes agrees that a Michelin star is the
highest achievement for a chef. For me,
Michelin is the ultimate accolade, and
if any chefs have told you otherwise,
its probably because theyve never
had one, he says. Cooking is a fashion
world, you see, and the one thing
Michelin is not driven by is fashion.
What Michelin, quite openly, is driven
by is tyre sales. An article in the The
Financial Times recently referenced a
study by Michelin that estimated that in
countries where the guide is published,
the company sees a three per cent
increase in sales. The Michelin Guide is
a big boost for the Michelin brand, the
company says. That was the idea when
the Michelin brothers launched the
guide in 1900 to help motorists travel
more easily and thus use more tires.
Now the acceptance of this view
of the Michelin Guide as a simple
marketing tool for tyres may seem
disingenuous, but it could have been

The guide was launched
in 1900 to help
motorists travel more
easily and therefore to
sell more tyres
FRENCH INDUSTRIALIST ANDRE MICHELIN IN THE LATE 1920S
MON TUE WED THUR FRI
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101
MICHELIN
a contributory factor in the French
companys decision to expand and
publish the famous guide outside of
its native Europe. In 2005, the guide
embarked on its frst sortie across the
Atlantic, publishing its frst New York
edition, which was quickly followed by
San Francisco in 2006, Tokyo in 2007,
Hong Kong and Macau in 2008 and
Kyoto and Osaka and Chicago in 2010.
The ffth edition of the Michelin Guide
Tokyo was recently released, a clear
indication that its been popular with
the Japanese public, argues Michelin.
We dont reveal detailed sales fgures,
but what we can say is that we sell one
million guides a year worldwide.
So the books are published in 23
countries and 13 cities, and people
seem to be buying them, but the
standing of the guide is a diferent
matter altogether. And its not hard
to fnd detractors when it comes to
Michelins potentially dangerous
decision to move beyond Europe.
Michelin lost its lustre by expanding
into countries where they had scant
knowledge, says London Evening
Standard critic, Fay Maschler. This was
true of the Italian and Spanish guides.
Marco Pierre White, a man who at the
age of 33 became the youngest chef to
be awarded three Michelin stars in Great
Britain famously handing them back
to Michelin when he retired in 1999
puts it a little less delicately.
Michelin in America is Mickey
Mouse, he says. Michelins whole
philosophy was that you had to prove
yourself over a period of time, prove
consistency so the guide could believe
in you. You earn your stars, going from
zero, to one, to two and fnally to three.
That didnt happen in New York
American food writer and GQ
columnist Alan Richman agrees that
Michelin had a rocky start when it
launched in New York in 2005.
A lot of people thought some of the
stars it awarded were very predictable
lets give out three stars to all the
restaurants that are based on French
cuisine, and the others well hand out
in a way that seems rather irrational,
he says. Richman adds that hes not
impressed with the guide unless hes in
France and the same can be said of the
majority of American food lovers.
It doesnt have the same aura to
the American consumer that it does
to Europeans, because weve seen that
the choices are so odd here and so
many restaurants we revere do not do
well and so many we dont think much
of win stars. So the American public
doesnt seem to be any more enamoured
by the guide than Richman, but the US
restaurant industry is just as obsessed as
anywhere in Europe.
I know its taken very seriously by
restaurateurs, and certainly they love
to get a Michelin star, says Richman.
The greatest element of the Michelin
Guide in the United States is prestige
and business from Europe, because its
revered by Europeans.
One of those Europeans who
harbours a profound respect for
BERNARD LOISEAU AT HIS RESTAURANT IN BURGUNDY IN 1998
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golf in dubai.pdf 11/21/11 2:15:16 PM
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103
MICHELIN
the Michelin Guide is Wareing, but
even he concedes that to achieve
the same status across the Atlantic
the guide is going to have to be
very patient.
The guide is still going through a
bedding in period outside of Europe,
he admits. The New York Times has
more credibility in New York because
of its history. That gives it a level of
kudos. People still see the Michelin
Guide as a European guide rather
than a global guide.
Chefs like Wareing and Rhodes
might possess the reverential attitude
towards the guide that Richman
believes all Europeans do, but not
everyone in Europe has the same
respect for it.
Richard Harden, publisher of
Michelin rival Hardens, which
rates restaurants based on
consumer surveys rather than
inspections, even questions his
competitors historical credentials.
Michelin was really a little-
known entity in the UK until about
20 years ago, he argues. Its
popularity was really all tied up in
the celebrity chef phenomenon. The
chef builds up the guide and the
guide builds up the chef.
It is Marco Pierre White and
Gordon Ramsay who Harden
singles out as the frst celebrity
chefs to take advantage of their
Michelin credentials to bolster
their brands and their businesses.
But with Pierre White retired and
Ramsay on the decline, the question
of whether we are seeing the demise
of the celebrity chef is, for Harden,
vital to Michelins future.
The whole celebrity chef
phenomenon is, if not dead, then
certainly dying and good riddance,
he says. The interesting question is
not whether the whole celebrity chef
bandwagon has hit the skids, it is
whether it is going to take the Michelin
madness with it.
Strangely enough, the man who
Harden singles out as Britains frst
celebrity chef, Pierre White, concurs
that Michelin doesnt have the same
standing or importance anymore for
the very same reason.
When they start giving stars to chefs
who arent in their kitchens, youve got
to question the integrity of the guide,
he says. If you look at Andre Michelins
criteria, to achieve two or three stars
you had to be proprietor, you had to be
behind your stove, but the game has
changed now.
Lets give out the stars to these
important chefs who control and have a
large percentage of the limelight
and theyll be our supporters and
our ambassadors. Its like theyre buying
chefs now.
Maschler agrees: The guide makes
and then rewards celebrity chefs such
as Alain Ducasse and Jol Robuchon,
and in the UK Gordon Ramsay, because
it benefts both parties in getting
coverage. Its hard to tar all chefs with
the same brush; Wareing, for example,
has published cook books and done
some television, but he is proprietor of
just two restaurants and can be found
more often than not in his two Michelin
star kitchen at The Berkeley.
But Gordon Ramsay, the name that
comes up most when the accusation
of you scratch our back well scratch
yours arises, refused an interview, and
Michelin itself ofers up a pretty fimsy
defence, stating categorically that, there
is no favouritism.
Other than its history, the reason
for the long-standing reputation of
the guide is its method of rating
restaurants. Most importantly, the
infamous Michelin inspector.
Until John Colapinto of The New
Yorker managed to secure an interview
with one of the guides inspectors in
2009, no journalist had ever spoken
to one of these secretive culinary
authorities on the record. Chefs, critics
and the general public still have no
idea who these invisible strangers,
as Wareing calls them, are. That is
perhaps the most powerful ingredient in
Michelins pantry.
Most of us believe in the myth of the
Michelin inspector, agrees Richman.
But the anonymity works both ways,
we see it as very professional but we
also think who are these people making
these very of choices?
For Wareing, They are the general
public, and they are judging the restaurant
as a member of the general public.
But that may be a little misleading.
Michelin inspectors famously fll
out reports on each restaurant they
visit, basing their appraisal on fve
criteria: product quality, preparation
and favours, the chefs personality
as revealed through his cuisine, value
for money, and consistency over time
across the entire menu. Is that how you
judge a restaurant?
Harden believes this scientifc, tick

The guide makes and
then rewards celebrity
chefs such as Gordon
Ramsay, because it
benefits both parties
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fosters.pdf 11/21/11 2:27:43 PM
AD
105
MICHELIN
box rating system worked for Michelin
when it was solely concerned with the
grand French tradition of cooking, but
has proved woefully inadequate when
applied to other cuisines in Europe, Asia
and America.
You can judge restaurants like that
with great French cuisine because its
fairly prescriptive, but everyone says
that Michelin completely loses its
bearings when it tries to judge any other
type of cuisine, and that is of course
right, because you cant possibly be an
expert in all the worlds cuisines.
Maschler also believes that Michelins
methods are outdated. It is the word
consistency that pops up most
frequently when talking to chefs about
the guide, but Maschler argues it is
less important today than it was in the
halcyon days of fne dining.
Quite rightly, consistency is valued
by a guide published once a year,
but it is almost an irrelevance in a
volatile restaurant culture as we have
in London now, where exciting eating
may literally pop up.
The FTs restaurant correspondent,
Nicholas Lander, is certain that people
are beginning to question the guides
authority. Once they come to England
and start doing pubs, you think wait,
hang on, thats not quite right. Why do
I need a French team to tell me about
pubs in England? You start to question
the whole thing.
Lander is likely referring to the
star its second Michelin recently
bestowed on The Hand & Flowers in
Marlow, Buckinghamshire the frst
pub to be awarded two Michelin stars.
Michelin is seen as the custodian of
French cooking and many accept that
cooking in France is not what it used
to be. So for the customer, it is far less
relevant, he says. French restaurants
live on what the bloggers say, and they
have a much more casual approach to
eating and drinking.
Even Wareing, a staunch believer in
the importance of the Michelin Guide,
acknowledges it is going to face stif
competition as the digital age taps and
clicks its way forward into the future.
The Michelin Guide, most guides,
come out once a year, journalism 24 to
48 hours, maybe four or fve days later.
With social networks, its a matter of
minutes. You cant beat that, he says.
Michelin recently appointed a new
international director, Michael Ellis, but
he refuses to comment on future strategy
until next year.
The company does, though, appear
to be making an efort to move with the
times. It has a website, viamichelin.com,
and an iPhone app, and in its most recent
promotional literature it highlights the
601 Bib Gourmand restaurants, ofering
good value for money for a three-course
meal, featured in the 2011 French
guide a nod to the more casual attitude
Lander believes is becoming prevalent
in France.
But, as it moves into its 112th year,
Michelin can no longer rely solely on its
history to keep it from becoming just
another restaurant guide.
With the methods of its inspectors
being questioned, difculty dispelling
accusations of favouritism and
a constant struggle to bolster its
reputation outside of Europe, it is
looking like Michelin itself is living on
borrowed time. And only time will tell
if it succumbs to a similar fate as the
unfortunate Bernard Loiseau.
Gareth Rees is a food writer based in Dubai

Michelin comes out
once a year. With social
networks its a matter
of minutes. You cannot
beat that
CHEFS SUCH AS MARCO PIERRE WHITE HAVE QUESTIONED THE INTEGRITY OF THE GUIDE
BRAINWASHED
the genetics of
why we buy
by martin lindstrom
106
OS10_106-117_Buyology.indd 106 11/21/11 5:58:09 PM
BRAINWASHED
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ow often have you sorted
through the neglected
clothes in your wardrobe
only to realise that many
of your old jeans or shirts are back in
fashion? The thin tie, the slim-ft jeans,
the Hawaiian shirts have suddenly
become cool again. Yet, in the face
of knowing that everything old will
almost certainly become new again,
you continue to shop. And despite the
fact that the fake Rolex you bought in
Bangkoks street market works like, well
clockwork, and not a single soul has
questioned its authenticity, you still
hanker after the real deal. The same can
be said for the Prada sunglasses you
picked up on the same trip. Number
one copies or not, theyre still copies.
You have been brandwashed.
Consider this. 85 per cent of all
decisions we make are made in our
subconscious mind only 15 per cent
are made in our rational mind. Think
about how irrational we actually are.
Do you fnd yourself touching wood
to keep the evil eye at bay? What
do you do if theres no wood within
reach? Do you settle for knocking on
your head? How about the magazine
pile? Do you always reach for the one
thats second from the top? This may
sound odd, but the fact is 92 per cent
of all Europeans who buy magazines
never take the one at the top of the pile.
Should the consumer decide not to buy
it, they usually return it to its rightful
place one from the top. So, in the
end everyone lands up with the same
thumbed-through periodical.
Similarly, women usually choose
the second stall in a public toilet based
on the assumption that everyone uses
the frst. Since in this situation the
majority of women think alike, only 2
per cent
use the frst
stall with the second
toilet getting the bulk of the
trafc.
Of all the industries that vie for
our consumer dollar, the fashion
industry has managed to reach our
inner psyche more successfully than
any other. We buy more clothes than
we need, we buy them with not that
much deliberation, and whats more,
we infuence those around us to do the
same over and over again.
In a study conducted in Cologne,
Germany, a crowd of 200 people
were gathered together in a large
circle that was numbered like a clock.
Researchers then handed out slips of
paper to 10 informed individuals.
The instructions read, Go to 9
oclock, but do not leave the group.
For a while, the group seemed to mix
and mingle fairly randomly. But soon
enough, the informed individuals
had led everybody else to the
designated 9 oclock point.
But
theres more
to it. Over the years,
the fashion industry
has managed to tap into our
deepest drivers our aspirations, our
dreams and our fears. Who would
have imagined that the fnest year
for perfume would be 2010? The
global fnancial crisis was at its peak,
and people went out and spent their
money on of all things, perfume. One
can only wonder why, but the simple
explanation is we are hardwired to seek
out things that will make us feel better
when we fnd ourselves in a miasma of
unpleasantness. It seems that the best-
selling perfumes were those whose
labels placed them in Paris, Milan,
London, New York and Tokyo. We are
perfectly aware that these perfume
factories are not within a scented whif
of the Eifel Tower, but all were really
looking for is an express ticket to dream
land. And for the grand sum of $125,
perfume can take us there.
So, what is it about fashion that
makes it so irresistible? Why are we
AD
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BUYOLOGY
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so eager to over-extend our fnances
to pay for something that we know is
being produced by cheap labour in a
factory somewhere in Asia?
Imagine yourself browsing the
shelves in a retail store. Suddenly a
pair of jeans catches your eye. You
have to try them on. You head to the
ftting room, and theyre perfect, as if
they were tailor-made just for
you. To your surprise,
you see that
theyre the same
size as the pants
you wore a good
seven years ago.
Oh, wow, youre
thinking, Ive
lost weight a
lot of weight.
You fnd yourself
feeling a whole lot
better about yourself. Then
as you leave the ftting room, you see
a poster of a totally gorgeous model
wearing the very same pants youre
considering buying. Needless to say,
shes glamorous, sexy, and shes
surrounded by a group of similarly
stunning friends. As you stand there
holding the jeans, the urge to buy them
hits you like a rush. You know you it
will hurt your credit card, and you
know you probably shouldnt do it,
but you do. You head to the counter,
sign for the purchase, and head home
with your package.
Lets stop here for a minute and take
time to examine what went on in your
brain as you made the decision to buy.
For starters, lets be clear. You
have not lost weight. Its more likely
youve fallen victim to vanity sizing,
a devious ploy by which stores make
clothes bigger so we think we can ft
into a smaller size. Retailers
have been doing this
with womens clothes
for years, and the
tactic is now being
applied to mens
clothes as well. When
Esquire magazine
sent reporter Abram
Sauer into various
stores with a tape
measure, he found that
pairs of mens pants with so-called
36-inch waists actually ranged in size
from 37 inches (H&M) to 38.5 inches
(Calvin Klein) to 39 inches (Gap,
Haggar and Dockers) to 41 inches (Old
Navy). It used to be that men didnt
care what the size of his waistband
was, but today experts know full well
that both genders will be more likely
to buy a product that makes them feel
trim and svelte.
Theres a whole lot more to this
story. As you saw the poster on the
wall, something else happened in
your brain your mirror neurons
were activated. Mirror neurons were
discovered in 1989 when Dr. Giacomo
Rizzolatti noticed what he originally
termed monkey see, monkey do. In
other words, if we someone doing
something like yawning, scratching
or even dancing, we identify with
the action, and our brain behaves
similarly. Its a form of empathy,
where we put ourselves in anothers
shoes thereby feeling a stronger sense
of engagement.
So, back to our shopping experience.
As we watch people walking down the
hallway in a really cool pair of jeans,
or maybe see them standing amidst a
sophisticated crowd, our brain relates
to the situation and leads us to believe
that we could be that very person.
Even though we know we cant ever
look that way our very genes prohibit
it in that moment we dont see the
model, we are the model. Our neurons
have taken control and they convince
us that if we buy the jeans we will be
just as cool and just as popular as the
image on the poster.
All this activity helps trigger
dopamine, a chemical in your brain.
Dopamine is a neurotransmitter that
helps create the irresistible urge to
buy the jeans. Its no coincidence that
dopamine is the very same chemical
110
BUYOLOGY
Most of us have fallen
victim to vanity sizing
where clothes are much
bigger than the
advertised waistline
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Emirates Grand Hotel revised (2011)FINAL_rs.pdf 9/24/11 1:09:11 PM
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DISCOVER
THE
NATURAL
YOU!
AD
thats released in our brains when
we take feel-good drugs. It can be
addictive. The term Shopaholic is
more than the invention of a skilled
copywriter. Rather it should be seen for
what it is a description of a disease
that currently afects close to 10% of
all American women.
Fashion is the epicentre of irrational
behaviour, and even though were
conscious of it, the chances are that
were unlikely to change. There are
several ingredients that help create
the aura of attraction that keeps the
multibillion-dollar industry alive. One
of the cornerstones of this phenomenon
is our fascination with celebrity. We
want to know how they live, who they
love, and of course what they wear.
If youve ever had the good fortune
to chance upon one of the rich and
famous, youve undoubtedly dined out
on the story at many a social gathering.
You might even have managed to take a
quick pic on your phone. No need
for any embarrassment, your reaction
is quite natural. Its yet another
behaviour that stems from our basic
primate tendencies.
You might consider that Im
drawing a fairly broad bow here,
but in truth gossip is linked to our
survival instincts. It was once a way
of securing food. Sure, the Paris
Hiltons and Lindsey
Lohans of the world are
a fairly recent phenomenon,
but back in simpler times, survival
depended on where to fnd the best
food, the whereabouts of unsafe
territory, and which path is best taken
to cross the raging river. Those who
were better informed were far more
likely to survive the hardships of
everyday life.
Obviously things have changed
dramatically since then, however
our need to gossip is still very much
a feature of life in the 21st century.
Similarly, we remain drawn to the
leaders. Kings and queens are by
and large just fgureheads, were
more than jaded with our current
crop of politicians, and so what do
we have left? Celebrities! They have
their fngers on the pulse. They wear
the latest fashions, are seen at the
hippest venues, and mingle with the
most attractive, most popular and
most interesting people of the era.
The fashion industry knows this
well. Giorgio Armani was the leader
in this particular pack. He was the
frst fashion designer not only to
understand it, but also to systematize
it. He opened his West Hollywood store
way before any other designers gained
113
BUYOLOGY
Armani managed to tap
into the essence of
fashion, aspiration
and desire
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emirates advocates.pdf 6/21/11 10:53:47 AM
AD
a foothold, displayed his clothes and
surprisingly, gave away choice items
to any celebrity willing to wear them.
It didnt take long before A-list
celebrities began wearing Armani.
Funnily enough, as soon as one
successful celebrity was seen wearing
the latest and greatest Armani outft
at the Oscars, so it created a need
among other A-listers. Armani
managed to tap into the essence of
fashion, aspiration and desire and
almost half a century later, this
zeitgeist is still defning the industry.
Its quite common for a fashion brand
to contract celebrities to show up
at casual gatherings wearing their
outfts. These days Angelina Jolie
is never photographed without her
Luis Vuitton tote. Rosie Huntington-
Whiteley is almost exclusively dressed
by Burberry. Paris Hilton demands
$100,000 to engage in a few short
hours of cocktail chitchat, whilst Kylie
Minogue has an enduring relationship
with Dolce & Gabbana. She wears their
clothes, carries their handbags and
dons their sunglasses, and the same
skilled and stylish duo design all her
stage costumes too.
So does celebrity endorsement
work? I confess - a few years ago I
was sceptical when told that celebrity
endorsement was the single most
important factor in building a fashion
brand. I set out to discover if this
was true by initiating the worlds
largest word-of-mouth experiment,
which resulted in my new book,
Brandwashed (Crown).
The inspiration behind this
experiment was The Joneses, a
Hollywood movie starring Demi
Moore. In it she plays the leader
of a stealth marketing team. The
movie featured a fake home, with
a fake family, whose job it was to
promote brands to unsuspecting
friends, family and colleagues. The
family was generous with their
recommendations, promoting
everything from cars to chocolates.
The Brandwashed experiment began
in early 2010. We started by scouring
the US, looking for a perfect family.
We fnally found the Morgansons,
a picture-perfect family living in
Laguna Beach, California. Gina and
Eric Morganson are a wholesome
couple in their early forties. They have
three handsome sons who resemble
Justin Bieber in varying degrees. Under
the direction of one of Hollywoods top
producers, 35 cameras were hidden
inside their home. Microphones were
tucked inside plants, placed under
tables, and hidden behind couches.
A crew of 12 professionals monitored
the experiment. The object of the
experiment was to understand the
true power of word of mouth.
Lets fast forward. No dialogue
was scripted and we ended up with
2,000 hours of footage. So, what did
we discover?
I was shocked to discover that
word-of-mouth is probably one
of the most powerful marketing
tools Ive ever encountered. Those
who entered the familys sphere
purchased 90% of the brands
recommended by the Morgansons -
even the producer couldnt resist the
recommended shampoo, and he only
got the information from behind the
observational mirror. Recent research
115
BUYOLOGY
We are genetically
programmed to follow
each other. Fashion
knows this and taps
into it in myriad ways
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dorce.pdf 10/19/11 2:59:49 PM
AD showed that people are more likely to
believe advertising in the Economist
than they are on the Hufngton
Post. In other words, context has an
indirect efect on the message. In our
experiment, the Morgansons were the
channel. Every recommendation they
made, seemed to come along with a
certifcate of endorsement that was
powerfully stamped with the invisible
message: You can trust this. Buy it.
The subtext of the recommendation
was, If the Morgansons like it, so
will I. The endorsement continued
way past the initial recommendation.
We tracked the efects via mobile
devices and control groups, and the
initial recommendations were equally
efective as the word-of-mouth
spread to the second, the third, and
even the fourth circle beyond the
familys sphere.
What does this mean for brands and
fashion? A lot. Firstly, we need to be
mindful of the ethical implications.
Are we going to see hundreds if not
thousands of Morgansons popping
up as sleeper cells in the future?
Probably. However, whats particularly
interesting is that our experiment
showed that even though our control
family (indirectly competing with the
Morgansons) openly declared their
mission, they did even better than the
Morgansons.
So, it seems, that if the consumer is
aware that this is part of a marketing
scheme, they are even quicker to
embrace it.
And all this brings me back to the
world of fashion. Whether we care
to admit it or not, we are genetically
programmed to follow one another.
More than any other industry,
fashion knows this and taps into it
in ways youve never even thought
about. The fact is that most of the
clothes we wear, regardless of their
price tag, are made in some poorly lit
and inadequately ventilated factory
somewhere in the heart of China.
Even though most designers
would fnd it hard to admit, the same
production lines produce a range
of items for a number of competing
brands. In the morning, Gucci glasses
are assembled, in the afternoon the
factory hands switch to Versace.
We rarely even glimpse this side of
the story. Were only exposed to the
other side the fashion, the glamour,
and the sensual delights were all so
magnetically drawn to. Weve been
brandwashed.Not only that, were all
brandwashing one another. And whats
more, were loving it.
Martin Lindstrom is the best-selling author of
Buyology and Brandwashed.
117
BUYOLOGY
We have all been
brandwashed; we are
doing the same to each
other, and we love
doing it
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cado lake, texas
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cado lake, texas, Usa
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Open Skies 19.5x26 E-final.pdf 11/17/11 4:14:19 PM
129
IR
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EMIRATES NEW DAILY
SERVICE TO
DUBLIN STARTS
P
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BRIEFING
I. !32 AVlATlON AEPODYNAMlCS P. 138 route map P. !42 our fleet
OS10_129-129_BREIFINGCover.indd 129 11/21/11 4:12:28 PM
TRINITY
COLLEGE
GUINNESS
STORE HOUSE
130
DUBLIN
EMIRATES PLACES RECORD $26BN AIRCRAFT ORDER
A GUIDE TO EMIRATES NEWEST ROUTE
order of 40 777-300 ERs, making the
number of aircraft on frm order 90.
Emirates is already the largest operator
of 777 aircraft in the world, including 61
300-ERs currently in service, and the
expansion of the feet reafrms Emirates
intention to continue to expand its long
haul service. This record breaking dollar
value order is another milestone for
Emirates and afrms our strategy to
continue to excel as a world leading
carrier, connecting the world to Dubai
and beyond, said HH Sheikh Ahmed
Bin Saeed Al-Maktoum, Chairman
and Chief Executive, Emirates Airline
and Group. The Boeing 777-300 ER
aircraft plays a pivotal role in Emirates
development of a modern feet to meet
the demand for global air travel for
the future.
EMIRATES NEWS
EMIRATES ORDERED A RECORD
additional 50 777-300 ER aircraft from
plane manufacturer Boeing at last
months Dubai Airshow.
The order, which also includes 20
777-300 ER options, is valued at US$26
billion, and is the single largest dollar
value aircraft order in the history of
Boeing. The additional 50 aircraft
ordered adds to the existing Emirates
Ofcially known as the Monument of
Light, this towering stainless steel pin-
like monument on OConnell Street is
better known as the Spire of Dublin. Its
visible from across the city.
Founded by Queen Elizabeth I in
1592, Irelands oldest university
boasts wonderful gardens,
beautiful architecture and an
impressive alumni cast including
Oscar Wilde and Samuel Beckett.
The perfect place to sit and enjoy an
alfresco lunch on one of the cricket
pitches. Be sure and see the Book of
Kells while yourre there.
Fully renovated in 2004, Croke
Park is one of the worlds
most famous sporting
arenas. With a capacity
of 82,300 it is Europes
third biggest stadium
and the home of Irish
Gaelic football, and
it also hosts the Irish
national rugby team.
Cobblestone streets, bars, art
galleries, cafs and historic
architecture Temple Bar is
what people imagine Dublin
should be like, and it is. Drop by
the IFC for cutting-edge flms or
have a pint in one of the many
old school pubs that dot the
districts alleyways.
Whether they like it or not,
Guinness has become
synonymous with the
Irish. The tour of the
Guinness Store House
in the city centre is
touted as Irelands
most popular
international
visitor attraction.
EMIRATES A
SERVICES TO
LONDON HEATHROW
W
ILL BECOME TRIPLE
DAILY FROM
24 JA
N

CROKE PARK
TEMPLE BAR
THE SPIRE
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OS10_130-130_EKNews.indd 130 11/21/11 4:13:15 PM
ARE YOU?
VOLVO OCEAN RACE
IS COMING TO ABU DHABI
THIS NEW YEAR
abudhabi
47226 Open Skies International VOR Stopover Italy 260x195.indd 1 11/2/11 9:14 AM a
EMI RATES NEWS ENVI RONMENT
THE LENGTH OF TIME IN YEARS THAT MOST
AIRCRAFT ARE BUILT TO OPERATE FOR.
25-30
95%
THE PERCENTAGE OF THE AIRCRAFT THAT
MANUFACTURERS ESTIMATE IS RECYCLABLE.
WINGING IT
AS THE AVIATION INDUSTRY IS
constantly looking for new ways
to reduce its environmental impact,
solutions can be found in not only
investing in new fuel types and
implementing favourable initiatives
such as paperless fights, but also
from developing more efcient ways
of saving energy whilst in fight.
Fuel consumption can be reduced
if the aerodynamics of the aircraft
can be improved, despite the fact
that aircraft and engine technology
has increased fuel efciency by 70
per cent over 40 years, development
still continues in order to make more
energy savings.
Advances in winglets the
extensions on the end of some
aircraft wings by companies such
as Winglet Technologies have lead
to a three per cent reduction in fuel
consumption. They lessen the drag
caused by airfow over the wing,
reducing fuel consumption, CO2
emissions and noise pollution
similar to the design of a modern
Formula One car.
Emirates maintains a feet, with an
average aircraft age of just six years,
of which the aircraft come direct from
Boeing and Airbus already ftted with
latest technology wingtips.
COP17 MEETING
This month sees the
annual conference of
the COP17, the body
comprising of the parties
involved in the Kyoto
Protocol. This branch
of the UN meets to
discuss environmental
resolutions.
JAVAN RHINO
The International Rhino
Foundation has reported
that the endangered Javan
rhino is now extinct in
Vietnam. A mere 50 of
these rhinos remain in
the wild around the world,
making it the rarest large
mammal on earth.
WALL LIGHT
A revolutionary new
idea for light-emitting
wallpaper is being
developed by a
company in north
Wales. Lomox has
developed a low
energy light source
from organic light
emitting diodes
(OLED) that can
be integrated into
wallpaper. The OLEDs
require very little
energy to run, which
could cut down on
costs as they are cheap
to manufacture.
Gone are the days when the only
decision you faced when buying a
light bulb was whether to get a bayonet
or screw. These days there are seemingly
thousands of diferent variations of
bulbs. Heres the run down:
Incandescent bulbs the traditional
bulb is highly inefcient as 90 per cent
of its energy is given of as heat. These
bulbs are being phased out in Europe.
Energy efcient halogen bulbs
similar to incandescent, but with
halogen gas inside them that slows
down the deterioration process.
Fluorescent lamps the long tubes are
only efective as energy savers if they
are not constantly turned on and of.
Compact fuorescent lamps more
energy saving as they dont take long
to warm up. Reduces the carbon output
of an incandescent bulb by 70 per cent.
LED The future of lighting. They only
need to be replaced about once every
25 years and use less than 10 per cent
of the energy of an incandescent.
LIGHT ORCHESTRA
SOURCE: ENVIRO.AERO
.SOURCE: ENVIRO.AERO
132
3
1
%

THE AMOUNT
THAT BOEING HAS
REDUCED ITS C
EMISSIONS SINCE
.
SOURCE: ENVIRO.AERO
OS10_132-132_EKGreen.indd 132 11/21/11 4:13:53 PM
The District Studios open skies 195x260 eng out.pdf 1 11/11/11 1:12 PM
SMART TRAVELLER
REHYDRATE WITH WATER OR JUICES FREQUENTLY.
DRINK TEA AND COFFEE IN MODERATION.
LOOSEN CLOTHING, REMOVE JACKET AND
AVOID ANYTHING PRESSING AGAINST YOUR BODY.
CARRY ONLY THE ESSENTI AL I TEMS THAT
YOU WILL NEED DURING YOUR FLIGHT.
EXERCISE YOUR LOWER LEGS AND CALF
MUSCLES. THIS ENCOURAGES BLOOD FLOW.
APPLY A GOOD QUALI TY MOISTURISER TO
ENSURE YOUR SKIN DOESNT DRY OUT.
CABIN AIR IS DRIER THAN NORMAL THEREFORE
SWAP YOUR CONTACT LENSES FOR GLASSES.
TO HELP YOU ARRIVE AT YOUR
destination feeling relaxed and
refreshed, Emirates has developed
this collection of helpful travel tips.
Regardless of whether you need to
rejuvenate for your holiday or be
efective at achieving your goals on
a business trip, these simple tips will
help you to enjoy your journey and
time on board with Emirates today.
IN THE AIR
BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY
CONSULT YOUR DOCTOR BEFORE
TRAVELLING IF YOU HAVE ANY
MEDICAL CONCERNS ABOUT
MAKING A LONG JOURNEY, OR IF YOU
SUFFER FROM A RESPIRATORY OR
CARDIOVASCULAR CONDITION.
PLAN FOR THE DESTINATION WILL
YOU NEED ANY VACCINATIONS OR
SPECIAL MEDICATIONS?
GET A GOOD NIGHTS REST BEFORE
THE FLIGHT.
EAT LIGHTLY AND SENSIBLY.
AT THE AI RPORT
ALLOW YOURSELF PLENTY OF TIME
FOR CHECKIN.
AVOID CARRYING HEAVY BAGS
THROUGH THE AIRPORT AND ONTO
THE FLIGHT AS THIS CAN PLACE THE
BODY UNDER CONSIDERABLE STRESS.
ONCE THROUGH TO DEPARTURES TRY
AND RELAX AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE.
DURING THE FLIGHT
CHEWING AND SWALLOWING WILL
HELP EQUALISE YOUR EAR PRESSURE
DURING ASCENT AND DESCENT.
BABIES AND YOUNG PASSENGERS
MAY SUFFER MORE ACUTELY
WITH POPPING EARS, THEREFORE
CONSIDER PROVIDING A DUMMY.
GET AS COMFORTABLE AS
POSSIBLE WHEN RESTING AND
TURN FREQUENTLY.
AVOID SLEEPING FOR LONG PERIODS
IN THE SAME POSITION.
WHEN YOU ARRIVE
TRY SOME LIGHT EXERCISE OR READ
IF YOU CANT SLEEP AFTER ARRIVAL.
DRINK
PLENTY
OF WATER
MAKE
YOURSELF
COMFORTABLE
WEAR
GLASSES
TRAVEL
LIGHTLY
KEEP
MOVING
USE SKIN
MOISTURISER
134
EMI RATES NEWS COMFORT
OS10_134-134_EKComfort.indd 134 11/21/11 4:14:21 PM
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OPEN SKIES with Crop.pdf 10/20/11 1:35:49 PM
136
EMI RATES NEWS CUSTOMS & VISAS
All passengers arriving into the
US need to complete a CUSTOMS
DECLARATION FORM. If you are travelling
as a family this should be completed
by one member only. The form must be
completed in English, in capital letters,
and must be signed where indicated.
The IMMIGRATION FORM I-94 (Arrival
/ Departure Record) should be
completed if you are a non-US
citizen in possession of a valid US visa
and your fnal destination is the US
or if you are in transit to a country
outside the US. A separate form
must be completed for each person,
including children travelling on their
parents passport. The form includes a
Departure Record which must be kept
safe and given to your airline when
you leave the US.
If you hold a US or Canadian
passport, US Alien Resident Visa
(Green Card), US Immigrant Visa or a
valid ESTA (right), you are not required
to complete an immigration form.
TO US CUSTOMS & IMMIGRATION FORMS
CA
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WHETHER YOURE TRAVELLING TO, OR THROUGH, THE UNITED
States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs
and immigration forms will help to ensure that your journey
is as hassle free as possible. The Cabin Crew will ofer you two
forms when you are nearing your destination. We provide
guidelines below, so you can correctly complete the forms.
CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM IMMIGRATION FORM
OS10_136-137_EKVisaGuide.indd 136 11/21/11 4:14:59 PM
FLEET GUI DE EMIRATES NEWS
137
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1,039
80
THE NUMBER OF AIRCRAFT WASHES EACH YEAR:
THE HIGHEST AVERAGE SEAT LOAD PERCENTAGE EVER ACHIEVED IN ONE
FINANCIAL YEAR:
AD
80 mm wide x
224 mm high
ELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR
TRAVEL AUTHORISATION (ESTA)
IF YOU ARE AN INTERNATIONAL
TRAVELLER WISHING TO ENTER
THE UNITED STATES UNDER THE
VISA WAIVER PROGRAMME,
YOU MUST APPLY FOR
ELECTRONIC AUTHORISATION
ESTA UP TO HOURS PRIOR
TO YOUR DEPARTURE.
ESTA FACTS:
CHILDREN AND
INFANTS REQUIRE AN
INDIVIDUAL ESTA.
THE ONLINE ESTA SYSTEM
WILL INFORM YOU WHETHER
YOUR APPLICATION HAS BEEN
AUTHORISED, NOT AUTHORISED
OR IF AUTHORISATION
IS PENDING.
A SUCCESSFUL ESTA
APPLICATION IS VALID
FOR TWO YEARS, HOWEVER
THIS MAY BE REVOKED OR
WILL EXPIRE ALONG WITH
YOUR PASSPORT.
APPLY ONLINE AT WWW.CBP.GOV/ESTA
NATIONALITIES ELIGIBLE
FOR THE VISA WAIVER
*
:
ANDORRA, AUSTRALIA,
AUSTRIA, BELGIUM, BRUNEI,
CZECH REPUBLIC, DENMARK,
ESTONIA, FINLAND, FRANCE,
GERMANY, HUNGARY, ICELAND,
IRELAND, ITALY, JAPAN, LATVIA,
LIECHTENSTEIN, LITHUANIA,
LUXEMBURG, MALTA, MONACO,
THE NETHERLANDS, NEW
ZEALAND, NORWAY, PORTUGAL,
SAN MARINO, SINGAPORE,
SLOVAKIA, SLOVENIA, SOUTH
KOREA, SPAIN, SWEDEN,
SWITZERLAND AND THE
UNITED KINGDOM**.
* SUBJECT TO CHANGE
** ONLY BRITISH CITIZENS QUALIFY
UNDER THE VISA WAIVER PROGRAMME.
OS10_136-137_EKVisaGuide.indd 137 11/21/11 4:14:59 PM
138
EMI RATES NEWS ROUTE MAP
OS10_138-141_EKRouteMap.indd 138 11/21/11 4:15:52 PM
139
ROUTE MAP EMIRATES NEWS
140
EMI RATES NEWS ROUTE MAP
AD
141
ROUTE MAP EMIRATES NEWS
WHERE ARE
YOU GOING?
TELL US OR UPLOAD A PIC AT
FACEBOOK.COM/OPENSKIESMAGAZINE
TWITTER.COM/OPENSKIESMAG
EMIRATES NEWS FLEET GUI DE EMI RATES NEWS FLEET GUI DE
142
Boeing 777-300 Number of Aircraft: 12 Capacity: 364 Range: 11,029km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 60.9m
Boeing 777-200LR Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 266 Range: 17,446km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m
Boeing 777-300ER Number of Aircraft: 64 Capacity: 354-442 Range: 14,594km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 64.8m
Boeing 777-200 Number of Aircraft: 9 Capacity: 274-346 Range: 9,649km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 60.9m
Boeing 777F Number of Aircraft: 3 Range 9,260km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m
TH
E
FLE
E
T

OUR FLEET CONTAINS
168 PLANES. M
ADE
UP OF 160 PASSENGER
PLANES AND 8
CARGO PLAN
ES
FOR MORE INFORMATION: WWW.EMIRATES.COM/OURFLEET
OS10_142-143_EKFleet.indd 142 11/21/11 4:16:34 PM
FLEET GUI DE EMIRATES NEWS
143
Airbus A340-300 Number of Aircraft: 8 Capacity: 267 Range: 13,350km Length: 63.6m Wingspan: 60.3m
Airbus A380-800 Number of Aircraft: 20 Capacity: 489-517 Range: 15,000km Length: 72.7m Wingspan: 79.8m
Airbus A340-500 Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 258 Range: 16,050km Length: 67.9m Wingspan: 63.4m
Airbus A330-200 Number of Aircraft: 27 Capacity: 237-278 Range: 12,200km Length: 58.8m Wingspan: 60.3m
Boeing 747-400F/747-ERF Number of Aircraft: 3/2 Range 8,232km/9,204km Length: 70.6m Wingspan: 64.4m
AI RCRAFT NUMBERS AS OF 3 1/ 1 2 / 2 0 1 1
TH
E
FLE
E
T

OUR FLEET CONTAINS
168 PLANES. M
ADE
UP OF 160 PASSENGER
PLANES AND 8
CARGO PLAN
ES
OS10_142-143_EKFleet.indd 143 11/21/11 4:16:42 PM
W
e are going to the movies next month with
an issue dedicated to flm. The UKs number
one flm reviewer wonders why its been so
long since Robert De Niro has made a decent movie.
We get an insiders account of life as a Bollywood
screenwriter. We track down one of North Africas
coolest cinemas in a rough and ready port town and get
an insiders guide to London with a cinephiles tour of
the English capital. If its on the silver screen, its in our
January issue. Dont forget the popcorn.
AD
80 mm wide x
224 mm high
facebook.com/openskiesmagazine twitter.com/openskiesmag www.openskiesmagazine.com
144
OS10_144-144_NextMonth.indd 144 11/21/11 6:56:30 PM
Feel every
single beat.
HTC Sensation XL smartphone with Beats
Audio
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and Beats
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by Dr. Dre urBeats
TM

in-ear headphones. Plus, with a 4.7-inch
screen its the biggest multi-media
experience youll nd on a smartphone.
Designed to blow your mind.
htc.com
lts 3.5
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More information available at OMEGA Middle East, Emirates Towers, Dubai, UAE. Tel: +971 4 3300455
STARRING
NICOLE KIDMAN

Open Skies December 2011

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