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Because of its inherent rot and abrasion resistance and high tensile strength, the bast fibre long was used in products such as sails and ropes. Its cultivation requires no pesticides, nor irrigation except in drought conditions, and it will grow in a range of geographical areas and climates. In recent years, as interest heightened in organically grown fibres and eco-friendly production processes, hemp found a niche market in organic apparel. Thanks to Naturally Advanced Technologies Inc. (NAT), Vancouver, Canada, who recently developed the CRAiLAR enzymatic technology for processing bast fibres in collaboration with National Research Council of Canada (NRC)
t is a patented process that treats bast fibre stock such as flax and hemp to produce textile-grade fibres so comfortable and fine that they can be turned into yarn suitable for hosiery, denim, knitwear, non-woven fabricsalone, or blended with other natural fibres used to manufacture apparel products and home furnishings.
of hemp's cellulosic structure and increases yield. Every step of this process can be certified organic, making it eco-friendly from beginning to end.
Fibre properties
CRAiLAR technology makes use of bast natural properties, including tensile strength, thermoregulation, and antimicrobial and abrasion resistance. Its organic fibres are stronger than glass and cotton fibres and softer as compare to linen fibre. The organic fibres carry antimicrobial properties as well. Dye uptake The ability of a fibre to absorb dye is critical, from both a cost and an environmental standpoint. These organic fibres can achieve a better depth of colour using 20 per cent less dye than cotton Shrink resistance Fabrics made from these organic fibres shrink 50 per cent less than cotton when laundered. Blended with other natural fibres, these organic fibres act as stabilizers, helping garments retain their shape longer Staple length CRAiLAR organic fibres start out as hemp fibres of upto a metre long, which are cut to 75mm comparable to the finest cotton in the market. The longer the staple length, the softer the yarn and the finer the gauge during knitting Tensile strength Tensile strength refers to the amount of pulling a material can stand before it stretches and breaks, and speaks to the longevity of a fabric. These fibres take on the soft texture of organic cotton, but with a 40 per cent highest tensile strength Thermoregulation Garments made from the fibres retain basts thermo regulation qualities. So, it keep the wearer comfortable in any kind of weather Wicking properties The ability for a textile to disperse moisture along its surface affects its absorbency and comfort. In laboratory tests, CRAiLAR organic fibres was shown to have a wicking capability of 2.5 inches in three minutes, as compared to the average of three inches in three minutes for other textiles materials Fabric produced using CRAiLAR technology resulted in a 50 per cent reduction in shrinkage, 45-per cent increase in tensile strength, and 20 per cent reduction in dye uptake. The fabric also exhibited wicking capabilities.
Flax/Hemp fibre
Requires only regular rainfall Faster growing, high-yielding crop Faster growing, high-yielding crop Flax is widely cultivated around the world. Hemp has restrictions Hardy. Shades out weeds and has fewer natural insect enemies. No or little chemical fertilizer or pesticide input Test fabrics (20 per cent CRAiLAR and 80 % cotton yarns) used conventional cottonspinning equipment and existing infrastructure with the following results: Reduced shrinkage 50 per cent Increase burst strength 45 per cent Reduced dye uptake 20 per cent Demonstrated wicking capabilities
Organic fibre
Needs regular irrigation
Top producing countries (India, Turkey, Syria, Tanzania) located in warm climate Widely cultivated around the world Requires more attentive cultivation. No or little chemical fertilizer or pesticide input
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Hanesbrands Inc. signed a 10-year supply agreement of the fibre Westex Inc., the premier manufacturer of flame resistant and arc rated protective clothing fabrics, is also doing product development with the flax fibre. Westex products used in electrical maintenance, electric and gas utilities, oil, gas, petrochemical, chemical, military, and ferrous metals industries Cintas, leading uniform brand in the US, is also using the fibre for their product categories as CRAiLAR flax fibre can increase durability and longevity of the uniform due to the tensile strength of CRAiLAR. In addition, the fibres ability to wick moisture provides users of Cintas uniforms a more comfortable uniform to wear in hot summer months.
Conclusion
The recent run up in cotton prices has opened up opportunities to promote other natural fibres for various textile and apparel uses. Flax is a cost-effective raw material for fibre production. And new CRAiLAR/cotton-blend alternative has arrived to help textile makers manage the unpredictability of weather-sensitive raw cotton supply and oil price-dependent synthetic fibre costs. These fibres are the foundation of the first truly sustainable yarn in the apparel industry, and are poised to become the revolutionary next step in sustainable fibres, providing an economically sustainable complement to cotton
CRAiLAR flax fibre is cut to staple lengths that can be blended with cotton and spun on traditional cotton spinning systems.
Soft, white CRAiLAR organic fibres can be blended with cotton for numerous apparel applications By Vasant R Kothari, Assistant Professor, NIFT, Bangalore (Author can be contacted @ www.vasantkothari.com)
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