Basic Troubleshooting Blower turns on but there is no heat.

Thermostats only control a fan relay, fan center or circuit board to turn on the blower motor. Although these relay's are necessary for cooling to work, they have nothing to do with the heating operation or outdoor cooling section of the equipment. Electric furnaces may or may not use this relay controlled by the fan switch of the thermostat. What is a flame sensor? The flame sensor, is typically located in front of the pilot or one of the burner flames. It is used as a safety device that insures a flame is present. When a flame is present the sensor passes a small electrical current through the flame and tells the circuitry what to do. If the sensor gets dirty the current passing through the flame is to weak for the circuitry to work properly. To clean the flame sensor, disconnect power to the furnace, remove the flame sensor, clean it with some crumpled up aluminum foil or some very fine sandpaper or steel wool. Reinstall it and reconnect the power to the furnace. What is a pressure switch? Pressure switch's are a safety device. They insure the flue pipe and inducer draft blower motor are functioning correctly. If the flue pipe becomes obstructed, or the inducer fails to start, the furnace will not ignite. Also be aware, if the vacuum hose or vacuum ports become obstructed, or fill with water, the furnace will not start. Often furnaces are installed with improper flue pipe sizes and can take a year or two for the problem to surface. Sometimes the pressure switch can simply go bad and need replaced. Where is the diagnostic light? Diagnostic lights are typically found on the circuit board. If the circuit board detects there is a problem the lights will begin to blink a code. ex... 3 blinks and a pause, then 3 blinks-pause again, and so on. The codes are then located on one of the doors, the circuit board or in the blower compartment, describing the problem. Note... on most furnaces when the power is turned off, these codes are lost, you will have to wait untill the furnace malfunctions again to retrieve the diagnostic code.

Where is the fuse? There are several fuses used in most furnaces. Fuses protect wiring and components from receiving to many amps or power. High voltage fuses can be in a breaker box or fuse panel. They can also be located on the side of the furnace by the switch that looks like a light switch, typically called an SSU. Low voltage fuses can be on the circuit board or in what is called a fuse holder. Fuse holders are typically found in the 24 volt wire leading from the transformer. Note... Many digital thermostats also have a fuse in them. When a fuse blows, quite often, there is a reason. Either a wire has short circuited to ground or a component has failed.

What is a transformer? Transformers are devices that typically step down voltage in an appliance. In most furnaces they step 120 volts down to 24 volts. The 24 volts then is used as control voltage to the thermostat, other safety devices and relays in the furnace or air conditioner. What is a main limit? Main limits are safety devices. When they get to hot, they open and turn off the gas. Is my furnace overheating? Furnaces contain overheating protection by means of a limit or main limit. Typical symptoms are... Burner turns off before thermostat temperature is reached. Burners ignite again in only a few minutes after they went out. Diagnostic light says main limit open. Furnace keeps turning off and on when thermostat still should be calling for heat. To correct this problem be sure... Filters are clean Blower motor is running at correct speed Secondary heat exchanger is clean. Cooling evaporator coil is clean. Cold air returns and registers are open. Roll out limit. This is just one example of many. However, all roll out limits must be manually reset. Purpose: Safety device. These limits trip if flames ever roll out of the heat exchanger, or flames burn where they are not supposed to be. If a roll out trips the potential of having a major problem with the burners are high and a service tech should probably be called to diagnose the problem. Should I put the fan switch on "ON" or "AUTO" There are several benefits to continuously running the blower. By continuously running the fan, you can even out the temperature in all the rooms of your home. In conjunction with an air cleaner, you can improve the air quality and reduce dust. Most experts say running the fan constantly does not reduce the life of the motor. Then the nagative side of the issues are. Blower motor can consume 1 dollar a day or more to operate. Flexible ducts, in attics are poorly insulated, moving air continuously is inefficient and I've known it to cause ice damming in some newly built homes. Filtration becomes more critical. Poor filtration, grit and dust will build up faster in the furnace, filter, blower motor, blower wheel, and evaporator coil. Dust in motor bearings cause most premature motor failures. Turn the knob on the gas valve to "pilot" and just wait for 5 minutes. Locate a 1/4" aluminum tube that comes out of the gas valve and follow it down towards the burner. There should be a shrouded device at the end of that tube, also a small copper wire going into it this device 'this is the pilot. Get an extension lighter and turn it on near the shrouded device. Now push the pilot valve down, it should light, now hold this button down for 1 minute. Release the button and the pilot should stay lit. If it doesn't you have a very dirty pilot, a bad thermocouple or gas valve. If the pilot stayed on, you are ready to light the furnace. Be sure the thermostat is "off", turn the gas valve to "on" now you are ready to turn the thermostat back to on. Turn the knob on the gas valve to "pilot" and just wait for 5 minutes. Locate a 1/4" aluminum tube that comes out of the gas valve and follow it down towards the burner. There should be a shrouded device at the end of that tube, also a small copper wire going into it this device 'this is the pilot. Get an extension lighter and turn it on near the shrouded device. Now push the pilot valve down, it should light, now hold this button down for 1 minute. Release the button and the pilot should stay lit. If it doesn't you have a very dirty pilot, a bad thermocouple or gas valve. If the pilot stayed on, you are ready to light the furnace. Be sure the thermostat is "off", turn the gas valve to "on" now you are ready to turn the thermostat

back to on.

Sequence of operation. Natural draft furnace. 24 vollts is always present to the thermostat R terminal. 1. When the thermostat closes its switch to call for heat, 24 volts is sent out of the thermostat on the W terminal. 2. This 24 volts goes back into the furnace, then typically through 1 or 2 safety devices to the gas valve. 3. If the standing pilot is lit. The gas valve opens, and the gas to the burners is then ignited by the pilot light. 4. The heat exchanger is heated untill a device tells the blower to come on, usually a fan and limit control. Also see camstat fan and limit control. 5. When the thermostat is satisfied, the switch in the thermostat opens, the gas valve closes, stopping fuel and the fan continues to blow untill the fan and limit cools, turning off the blower. High efficiency operation. 24 vollts is always present to the thermostat R terminal. 1. Thermostat sends 24 volts through white wire to furnace. 2. Furnace checks pressure switch, and safety switch's for proper positions (open/closed). 3. Draft inducer blower motor, starts to run. 4. If vent and vacuum hoses are clear the pressure switch, closes. (only a few pressure switch's open to prove venting) 5. After inducer plower purges the heat exchanger, either a pilot lights, a hot surface ignitor (HSI), or a spark begins. 6. If the furnace is an intermittant pilot model, once the pilot lights, current is sent through the flame by a flame sensor, if current is present through the flame the main gas valve opens and the burners ignite. 7. If the furnace is direct ignition, The HSI or spark ignites the flame. A flame sensor passes current through the flame, if current is present the main gas valve stays open and heat exchanger begins to warm up. 8. Most high efficiency furnaces then use an electronic timer on the circuit board to start the blower after the burners are proved. 9. Thermostat opens when desired temperature is reached. 10. The gas valve closes, burners extinguish, and the timer starts again to turn off the fan.

The following are some maintenance recommendations for technicians for their annual air conditioning system inspections. Warning: Disconnect the main electrical power to the unit before attempting any maintenance. Some systems may have more than one breaker such as a split air conditioner. Failure to disconnect the electrical power may result in equipment damage, personal injury, or death. Filters 1. Keep the air filters clean. A new home may require more frequent filter attention until dust from construction is removed. 2. Replace glass fiber filters when dirty.

3. Clean semi-permanent plastic impregnated fiber filters by: a. Vacuum cleaning; or b. Washing with detergent and water, air drying thoroughly, and reinstalling. Important: Do not operate any system without filters. Note: If an electronic air cleaner is installed, remove any mechanical filter from the air handler or furnace. Follow the maintenance instructions furnished with the electronic air cleaner. Lubrication In todays products, indoor blower motor bearings and outdoor unit fan motor bearings are pre-lubricated by the motor manufacturer. For motors with oiling ports: Add 10 to 20 drops of electric motor oil or an SE grade, non-detergent, SAE 10- or 20-grade motor oil to each bearing: a. Every year for continuous duty; b. At least every three years for somewhat continuous duty; or c. At least every five years for light duty. To access oiling ports or to relubricate the sealed bearings of the indoor blower motor, remove the blower assembly. For access to the outdoor fan motor, remove the unit top and turn the motor onto its side with the oil ports up. Outdoor Coil Cleaning Remove the top of the unit to clean the outdoor coil, flushing water through the coil from the inside out. Keep the outdoor coil clean for complete airflow and proper operation. Do not allow leaves, grass clippings, or other material to obstruct the coil. Do not allow anything to block the coil. Keep fences, shrubs, or other obstructions at least 24 inches from the coil air inlets. If the coil becomes obstructed, clean it with water from a garden hose. a. First turn off electrical power to the outdoor unit. b. Remove the top with the outdoor fan attached. c. Flush water through the coil from the inside out. Note: Do not get water on any controls or other electrical devices. If any electrical component gets wet, dry it thoroughly before energizing. d. Replace the top and turn on the electrical power. There are commercial coil cleaning solvents. Follow the solvent manufacturers instructions when using. Normally the solvent is sprayed onto the coil. Allow several minutes for the solvent to dissolve any organic matter. Wash away the solvent and any dissolved matter with water from a garden hose. Never use a weather cover over the outdoor unit. The unit is designed to operate outdoors. A cover traps moisture in the unit, which can cause rust and corrosion.

There is the added danger of starting the system with the cover on. This prevents airflow through the outdoor coil causing excessive system pressures. Compressor damage can result.

Indoor Coil Maintenance Inspect the indoor coil at least once a year for cleanliness, and clean as necessary. 1. The coil can be cleaned when dry. If it is coated with lint or dirt, blow compressed air or nitrogen (never use refrigerant) through the supply air side of the coil fins. Place a sheet of metal or cardboard under the return air side of the coil to catch any debris before it gets into the furnace or air handler. 2. If the coil is coated with oil or grease, clean with a mild detergent and water solution. Rinse thoroughly with clear water. Be careful not to get water into the furnace or air handler. 3. After cleaning the coil, inspect the drain pan and condensate line. Remove any debris from the pan and flush with clear water. 4. Use high-pressure water to clear any clog in the condensate line. Important: Do not use caustic household drain cleaners in the condensate pan or near the indoor coil. These drain cleaners can quickly damage the indoor coil.

Inspect Ductwork Check the duct system and seal any noted leaks. Air leakage of only 3 percent in a return duct can cause a 5 percent loss in system capacity. A 3 percent leakage rate on a 3-ton system is only 36 cfm. Two or three unsealed S or drive cleat joints can cause this much leakage. Sealing the return and supply ducts pays dividends in increased system capacity and lower operating costs.

Electrical Checks Inspect the systems electrical wiring and check for loose connections. Inspect the contactor for pitting and replace if pitting is observed. Inspect the conditions of wiring and connections for evidence of overheating. A discolored connection equates to a bad connection. Inspection and/or testing of capacitors should also be done. Any capacitor showing evidence of leakage must be replaced.

Motor And Fan Check the motor bearings. If the motor bearings are showing wear, the motor should be replaced before failure occurs. Inspect the fan blade. If visible cracks or missing balancing weights are detected, replace the fan blade.

Refrigerant Charge Check the systems refrigerant charge. If the system is undercharged, add refrigerant; if overcharged, remove refrigerant. Check system refrigerant charge. Before checking the charge: 1. The indoor conditions must be within 2 degrees F of the desired comfort conditions. 2. Ensure adequate indoor airflow before checking charge.

3. Run the system until the operating conditions stabilize (about 5 minutes). If the system is undercharged, add refrigerant. If overcharged, remove refrigerant.

Other Considerations The technician should also flush the condensate drain and observe any changes to the users lifestyle that may impact system performance (these might include a room that is no longer used where the homeowner has closed the diffuser). Finally, a record should be kept of all maintenance and repairs made to the system. It is always helpful to have a history of the system, especially when a customer has a question.

Determining Airflow Using A Voltmeter And Ammeter on: January 24, 2009, 07:50:36 PM

Measuring airflow has always been one of the more difficult and time consuming tasks a service person does. In fact, it is not generally done because it is too time consuming, requires special tools, and is not always so easy to do. In addition, airflow measurement is not usually taught to service people unless they are going to specialize in air balancing. Nevertheless, knowing the airflow in cfm can be useful to troubleshooters. Most service technicians check the airflow by measuring the temperature drop across the cooling coil or the temperature rise across a heating system. If the air temperature drop or rise falls within an expected range, the assumption is the airflow is acceptable. Here is an easy method of measuring the airflow through a system that uses electric heaters. This method applies wherever electric heat is found. Electric heaters are often utilized for reheat as well as for emergency heat on heat pumps. Assume you have an electric reheat coil that draws 25 amps at 240 volts. You take the temperature rise of the air as it passes through the electric heater and find that the air is heated from 50 degrees to 80 degrees. That is a 30-degree rise in air temperature. Now you multiply the 25 amps by the 240 volts to find that the wattage output of the heater is 6,000 watts. Since there are 3.42 Btu per watt, you multiply the 6,000 watts by 3.42 to find that the electric heater is adding 20,520 Btuh to the air. This amount of heat is increasing the air temperature by 30 degrees. Next you multiply the 30 degrees by the constant 1.08 to get a number, which can be divided into the 20,520 Btuh, to find the airflow in cfm.

Multiplying the 1.08 by 30 degrees of rise gives you a number of 32.4. Divide the 20,520 by this factor of 32.4 and you find that the airflow is 633 cfm. cfm = Btuh/1.08 x Temperature Rise cfm = 20,520 Btuh/1.08 x 30 cfm = 20,520 Btuh/32.4 cfm = 633 The 1.08 multiplier is not some mysterious magic number. This number includes the specific heat of air (0.24 Btu per pound per degree F). It takes 0.24 Btu of heat to change the temperature of one pound of air by 1 degree Fahrenheit. The 1.08 also contains the specific density of air (0.075 pounds per cubic foot). The air is measured in cfm yet the specific heat is per pounds of air. The weight per cubic foot of air (0.075 pounds) is needed to convert between the air volume and weight. Also contained in the 1.08 factor is the number of minutes in an hour (60 minutes per hour). This is required to convert between Btu per hour and cubic feet per minute. The factor of 1.08 is the product of the specific heat (0.24 Btu) times the density (0.075 pounds per cubic foot) times the number of minutes per hour (60 minutes). Factors for different altitudes. The factor 1.08 assumes standard air at 70 degrees F at sea level. For practical purposes on most air conditioning and heating systems, the specific heat of 0.24 will remain a good useable constant. Since there will always be 60 minutes in each hour, this too is a fixed constant. Should we find ourselves at an altitude other than sea level, however, the density of the air may change enough to affect the accuracy of our formula. Table 1 supplies a list of factors for different altitudes, providing the adjusted factor due to the change in the air density for that altitude. Be careful when taking the temperature readings so as not to allow the thermometers to be in the line of sight of the heaters. If the thermometers are placed in sight of the heaters, radiant heat from the heaters will increase the temperature readings and give a false airflow rate. It is the temperature rise of the air that we are looking for, not the temperature of the heaters. Remember, this method of determining the airflow through a heat pump can be used to determine the cfm with the heaters turned on, and the cfm will be the same when the heat pump is in the heating or cooling cycle. Whether the air is being heated or cooled, the airflow rate in cfm is the same. The air density in pounds per cubic foot changes but the cfm does not. The formula used here for determining cfm comes from the sensible heat formula: Btuh = 1.08 x cfm x Temperature Change.

Annual Furnace Tune Up and Maintenance on: January 24, 2009, 08:28:17 PM We've all felt the pinch of the rising cost of heating our homes. In fact, the average American family spent between $1200 and $1500 in 2005 to heat their home, so anything you can do to reduce that number is obviously well worth the effort. One thing that can help minimize your heating costs is ensuring your furnace is working efficiently, by giving it a tune up. A typical home heating (HVAC) system Home heating systems basically consist of three parts. A heat sensor, or thermostat, measures the temperature in your home and determines when it needs to be raised. When the air temperature drops, the thermostat signals the heater and the blower to turn on. The combustion in the heater creates heat, while the blower moves air over the heat exchanger, raising its temperature and distributing it throughout the house by the heating ducts. Cooler room air is returned to the furnace through return ducts where it is warmed. The warm-air-out, cool-air in-cycle continues until the desired temperature is reached and the thermostat signals the furnace to shut down. So, how do you tune up a furnace system? HVAC systems are mechanical, so like all mechanical systems they do need to be maintained. A thorough professional tune up will cost you $100 or more and is definitely something you should do every few years. However, you can do an annual tune up and maintenance process yourself, and save some of that money.

1. First take a look at your furnace. There shouldn't be any black soot or combustion residue on or around the furnace. Next, turn up the thermostat so your furnace comes on. Check the flames in the burner. They should be blue and steady, not yellow or orange and flickering. Soot build-up or yellow flames are an indication of poor combustion, and if you see any signs of either, call a professional technician to fix the problem. 2. Next, turn the thermostat back down and let your furnace cool. For extra safety, turn off the circuit breaker that powers your furnace. When the furnace is cool, remove the sides of your furnace and using a vacuum with a long nozzle, get rid of any dust that may have accumulated. Use a damp rag to clean the blades of the blower fan and any other areas the vacuum couldn't reach. While you've got the sides off, check to see if your blower fan has oil cups at the ends of the central shaft (some are sealed units and don't need oiling). If there are cups there, give them a few drops of oil. 3. An electric motor and a fan belt drive many blower fans, while some are direct drive and don't use a fan belt. If your blower does have a fan belt, check its condition and tension. The underside should be free of cracks, but over time, age and heat will dry out the rubber belt and cause cracks. If there are cracks in the belt, replace it with one of the same size. Checking the tension of the belt is as simple as pushing down on it. There should be about 1/2 inch of play in a properly adjusted belt. If you have more or less movement than that, adjust the tension by loosening the electric motor mounts and moving the motor to create the proper tension. 4. Reattach the furnace panels, and turn the circuit breaker back on. 5. Finally, changing your furnace filter once a month during heating season is a good maintenance practice. So when you're doing your furnace tune up, get ready for the season by installing a fresh filter. Now your furnace is ready for "Old Man Winter." Stay Safe Combustion creates Carbon Monoxide (CO), a colorless, odorless gas that can be deadly. Normally the CO produced by the combustion in your furnace is exhausted up the chimney and out of your home. However, a furnace that is out of adjustment can leave CO in your home. You can help protect yourself from CO poisoning by installing a Carbon Monoxide detector in your furnace room. If the detector indicates any build up of Carbon Monoxide at any time, have your furnace professionally inspected immediately. While doing your own tune up will help keep your furnace running efficiently, a professional inspection and tune up every few years is a good investment. The pros are the people who have the skills and equipment to ensure that any parts that might degrade over time are still functioning properly in your furnace. Homeowners are creatures of comfort, and with colder days ahead, now is the time to ensure your heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) systems are in tip-top shape to provide a comfortable indoor environment all winter long. Ongoing maintenance and simple tune-ups can ensure your system runs properly and efficiently, helping to reduce costly energy and repair bills. American Standard Heating and Air Conditioning offers the following tips for ensuring consistent indoor temperature, humidity and air quality in the winter: Arrange proactive maintenance Schedule regular appointments with a heating and air conditioning dealer to come out and service your system before winter and again before summer. Change the filters Heating and air conditioning system filters should be changed every 30 days, or as often as recommended by the manufacturer. To help save on replacement costs, some manufacturers, such as American Standard, have cleanable filters that can be rinsed and vacuumed. Check for leaks Windows and doors are prime suspects for air leakage. Check around every frame for cracks, gaps and poor-fitting fixtures and seal leaks with caulking or weatherstripping. Use the proper insulation Check to make sure your home is insulated with materials that have the proper "R-value." An R-value is the measurement of how well insulation resists heat flow. The higher the R-value, the better the insulating power. HVAC experts recommend using R-30 insulation in the ceilings and R-13 in the exterior walls. Program the thermostats

Save energy by installing a programmable thermostat that adjusts the temperature during the day. According to the U.S. Department of Energy, by turning your thermostat back 10 to 15 degrees for 8 hours, you can save 5 percent to 15 percent a year on your heating bill -- a savings of as much as 1 percent for each degree if the setback period is eight hours long. Upgrade to two-stage heating Most furnaces have single-stage heating systems, which deliver a blast of warm air followed by an off cycle and then another full blast of warm air, causing very noticeable temperature swings in the winter. Gain efficiency and comfort by upgrading to a two-stage system such as the American Standard's Freedom 80 or 90 Two Stage Furnace -- the first stage runs more than 80 percent of the time, and the second stage switches on only as needed to provide more heat. Control the humidity Static electric shocks, dry nasal passages and parched skin are signs that your home's humidity is too low. A humidifier can be attached to your furnace to add moisture back into the air during the cold winter months. American Standard offers whole-house humidifiers with integral sensors that can be set to automatically control humidity levels within your home. Ensure cleaner air Believe it or not, the air inside your home can sometimes be more unhealthy than what's outside, causing potential problems in your family's health. American Standard's air cleaners can be attached to the furnace and help remove unwanted particles from the air in every room of the house. Energy Usage Lowering Tips Set your thermostat as low as is comfortable. Keep the temperature fairly constant, as frequent changes will utilize more energy by causing unnecessary cycling on and off. Setting back the temperature at night, however, is recommended. Clean or replace furnace filters once a month or as needed. Oil-fired boilers should be professionally cleaned and tuned once a year. Gas-fired equipment needs to be checked every other year. Clean warm-air registers, baseboard heaters, and radiators as needed; make sure they are not blocked by furniture, carpeting, or drapes. Keep draperies and shades on south-facing windows open during the heating season to allow sunlight to enter your home; close them at night to reduce the chill you may feel from cold windows. Close the door to an unoccupied room or area that is isolated from the rest of the house and turn down the thermostat or turn off the heat for that room or area. Use kitchen, bath, and other ventilating fans wisely. Turn these fans off as soon as they are no longer needed. In about 1 hour, these fans can pull out a house-full of warmed or cooled air. They can also pull dangerous furnace combustion gasses into the house in some situations. Check your ducts for air leaks. First look for sections that should be joined but have separated and then look for obvious holes. Do not use duct tape to repair leaky ducts. Standard duct tape has been shown unreliable. Various mastics or non-cloth-backed tapes are preferable.

Handling Central Air Conditioning Condenser Problems

If your central air conditioning condenser problem is that the compressor and condenser fan wont run, first check the thermostat and be sure its turned on to cool, and that the temperature setting is below the room temperature indicated on the thermostat. If the thermostat is correctly set to cool, and the unit wont run, the first things to do to start troubleshooting this condenser problem would be to verify that the refrigerant pressure in the system is equivalent to ambient temperature, check the high- and low-pressure cut-outs, then verify that you have the correct line voltage at the condensing unit and correct control voltage to the thermostat. Check the breaker, fuses, and disconnect. If the breaker is tripped or a fuse is blown, your central air conditioning condenser problem may be a failed motor or compressor, or a shorted or grounded wire in the unit. Turn off the power to the unit, and check the fan motor and compressor terminals for a grounded, shorted, or open winding, and check the wiring in the unit for burned, shorted, or grounded wires or connectors. If the breaker, fuses, and disconnect are OK, open the condensing unit and verify that the main supply voltage to the unit is correct. If it isnt, find out why and correct it. If the main supply voltage is correct, verify that the control voltage to the thermostat is correct. If it isnt, find out why and correct it. Your central air conditioner condenser problem may be a failed transformer, or a blown control voltage fuse. If the control voltage to the thermostat is correct, verify that it is reaching the thermostat. Your central air conditioning condenser problem may be a failed thermostat, or a wire in the thermostat circuit may be broken.

If control voltage is reaching the thermostat, verify that the thermostat contacts are closing when its turned on to cool. If theyre not, youve found your central air conditioning condenser problem. If you verify that the thermostat is working correctly, turn it on to cool, and check the voltage reading at the compressor contactor. If you have control voltage at the compressor contactor coil, but the contactor does not energize, your central air conditioning condenser problem is a failed contactor. If you dont have control voltage at the contactor coil, take a voltage reading across the safeties. When you find a voltage reading across a safety, youve found the open one. If the voltage monitor/phase protection safety is open, there may have been an intermittent problem, or the safety may have failed. If the present voltages are within the range of the safetys settings and the safety is still open, it has failed. Verify whether or not it is a manual reset type safety. If the high-pressure safety is open, check the condenser fan and blade, check the coil to see if its dirty or airflow is impeded some other way, and verify that the standing pressure is correct for the refrigerant in the system. Measure the temperature of the condenser coil. The standing pressure on the high side should be equivalent to the temperature of the condensing coil. If it isnt, your central air conditioning condenser problem may be that the system is contaminated with air and noncondensibles, and possibly even mixed refrigerants. If its contaminated, youll have to correct it. If youre following up on someone elses work, you never know what youll find. If the low-pressure safety is open, check the low side pressure. If it is above 55 psi, an automatic reset safety should have already reset and closed. The safety may have failed, and this might have been your central air conditioning condenser problem. If the oil pressure safety switch is open, check the oil level in the compressor. If its low, top it off to normal, and remember to keep an eye on the oil level when the unit runs again. If the oil stayed in the system for some reason (maybe the unit was running unloaded for a long time), when it starts running at full load, the oil will come back to the compressor, and youll have to remove it to maintain the correct oil level in the compressor. Another safety to check is the compressor protection module. Its usually found next to the compressor terminals. There are several different types, and theyre designed to open the control circuit to protect the compressor from electrical failure. If this safety is open, find out why and correct it. If the contactor pulls it but the compressor doesnt run, verify that you have the correct voltage at the compressor terminals. If you have the correct voltage at the compressor terminals, the external overload hasnt failed, and if the compressor wont run, it has failed. If you dont have the correct voltage at the compressor terminals, find out why and correct it. If your central air conditioning condenser problem is that the condenser fan motor wont run, first, push on the blade and see if the motor will even turn. If it wont turn, its seized and must be replaced. If it isnt seized, check the control voltage on the relay that controls it. If there is control voltage but the relay doesnt energize and close, its failed. If theres no control voltage, check the control circuit. There may be a failed low ambient control that is keeping the fan de-energized. If the relay energizes, check the load side voltages and verify they are correct. Verify correct voltage is reaching the motor terminals. If the correct voltage is reaching the fan motor terminals and it wont run, turn off power and take a resistance reading on the windings. The fan motor may have failed. If theres a run capacitor, replace it and see if the motor will run. If it does, take an amp draw on both leads on the capacitor. You should have an amp draw on both terminals of the run capacitor. If not, the run capacitor is bad, or the start winding has failed. By the time youve checked all these components, if your central air conditioning condenser problem was electrical, you should have found it. Before you run the unit, check the evaporator coil, filter, blower, and ducting, just to verify that the system will run properly

when you power it up. Air Conditioning Repair FAQ: How to Diagnose & Repair Air Conditioners The air conditioning system will not operate at all: power may be off, controls may be improperly set, or the system may be inoperative. (Confirm that the system has electrical power and that all of its control switches and thermostat are set to "on" and "cooling" positions. The air conditioning system operates but does not produce cool air, or not enough cool air. The air conditioning system operates but there is not enough cool air flow at the registers..) The compressor was short-cycling, that is, turning itself on and off rapidly, perhaps every few seconds or minutes rather than producing a normal on-cycle of 10 minutes or longer. The compressor was noisy, during startup, indicating an operating problem. The compressor squealed at startup, indicating that service may be needed promptly to prevent possibly costly damage to the system. This repair/maintenance item should not be deferred. Inside cooling or evaporator coil defects that can be seen by eye: dirty coil, blocked coil, frost on the coil, improperly sized evaporator coil, improper evaporator or cooling coil placement in the system. Air flow across the air conditioning evaporator coil: if airflow is weak for any reason (dirty coil, duct system defects, blower fan defects, dirty blower squirrel cage fan), the air conditioning system will not operate properly. Some experts write that there should be between 350 and 400 cubic feet of air per minute (CFM) moving across the evaporator (cooling) coil for each ton of air conditioner capacity. (One ton = 12,000 BTUH so if your AC unit is a 24,000 BTUH unit it is a "two ton" unit and needs to see 700 to 800 CFM of air across the evaporator coil. Some home inspectors and air conditioning service technicians carry a small airflow meter that can actually measure this number with fair accuracy. (The same tool is nice for comparing air flow and balancing air flow at various building supply ducts and registers. Evaporator coil cleaning often requires cutting refrigerant lines, removal of the coil and other components for cleaning, and re installation, pulling a vacuum on the refrigerant lines, and recharge with refrigerant. Such service and repair may involve significant expense, although there are some "in place" cleaning methods using foams and sprays that are a simpler procedure. Dirty air conditioning filters, - a source of increased operating costs. Very dirty filters can eventually block the fan itself, leading to more costly repairs. The filters should be changed monthly when the system is in use. Failure to properly filter dust from the return air supply can load the fan or evaporator coil with dust and prevent proper system operation. Installing a filter is normally a minor expense. Dirty, blocked evaporator coils can result in improper system operation, very low output temperatures, low air flow (compensated sometimes by increased fan speed), and sometimes frost on the coil and failure of system components. The air conditioner fuse keeps blowing or the circuit breaker trips: could mean a compressor which needs repair or replacement, or it could mean a problem with the unit's electrical wiring, such as use of aluminum wiring combined with bad electrical connections. Have your service technician check the condition of the electrical circuit first (that's cheaper than a new air conditioning compressor) and then check the condition of the compressor.