SKYLLA

A knit menstrual cup cozy with a sewn fabric lining, in the shape of a squid. This squid uses double knitting and knitting in the round and is worked in one piece beginning with the tip of the body.
Designed and written and photographs by Dale Hwang. This is a revision of a pattern that originally appeared in Anticraft: Knitting, Beading, and Stitching for the Slightly Sinister, edited by Renee Rigdon and Zabet Stewart, 2007.

Gauge in stockinette over 4in (10cm): 24st/30r. Finished size: 11.75in (30cm) long, including tentacles; 6.5in (16.5cm) exterior circumference at widest point. The bag is 5in (13cm) deep and the interior circumference is 5.5in (14cm) at its widest point. It is pictured with a Divacup. MATERIALS Squid exterior 25g/55yds (50m) of DK to worsted weight yarn for the given size. US#5 (3.75mm) double pointed needles (dpns) or size to get gauge. stitch marker yarn needle that fits through the buttons for finishing 2 white or pearl four-hole buttons; I prefer larger buttons from 1/2-7/8in (12-22mm). a bit of black yarn or embroidery floss held doubled Optional - a 5/8in (16mm) button, or snaps, or hook/loop tape for the feeder tentacle strap and sewing thread that matches the yarn and a sewing needle. Lining 7x14in (18x36cm) piece of fabric two lengths of 1/8in (3mm) cord at least 10in (25cm) long sewing needle thread which matches the fabric pins and a safety pin or bodkin KEY CO = cast on as specified; k = knit; sl = slip; m1 = make one, in this case the lifted bar increase; inc1= increase 1st in any preferred manner that won't leave a hole; ssk = slip, slip, knit; a left leaning decrease; k2tog = knit 2 together; a right leaning decrease; yo = yarn over; psso = pass slipped stitch(es) over the stitch just worked; x# = work the part in parenthesis # times; wyif = with yarn in front; tbl = through the back of the loop, to result in a stitch where the legs are crossed over each other; (sl2 kwise, k1, psso) = centered double decrease; slip 2 stitches at the same time knitwise, then knit 1 stitch, pass the 2 slipped stitches as one over the 1 knit stitch; PM = place marker.

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SQUID - the portion in [brackets] is the double knitting portion of the squid. All the yarn overs are eventually worked tbl to close them up. You can also substitute any k1, m1 or m1, k1 pair with the kfb increase. I prefer the long tail cast-on, but a cable cast-on or knitting on also work. CO 3st row 1) k3 r2) k1, m1, [yo, sl1 wyif], m1, k1. r3) k2, [k1, sl1 wyif], k2. r4) k1, m1, [yo, sl1 wyif, k1 tbl, sl1 wyif, yo, sl1 wyif], m1, k1 r5) k2, [(k1, sl1 wyif)x3], k2 r6) k1, m1, k1, [k1 tbl, sl1 wyif, k1, sl1 wyif, k1 tbl, sl1 wyif], k1, m1, k1 r7) k3, [(k1, sl1 wyif)x3], k3 r8) k1, m1, k1, [yo, sl1 wyif, (k1, sl1 wyif)x3, yo, sl1 wyif], k1, m1, k1 r9) k3, [(k1, sl1)x5], k3 r10) k1, m1, k2, [k1 tbl, sl1 wyif, (k1, sl1 wyif)x3, k1 tbl, sl1 wyif], k2, m1, k1 r11) k4, [(k1, sl1 wyif)x5], k4 r12) k1, m1, k2, [yo, sl1 wyif, (k1, sl1 wyif)x5, yo, sl1 wyif], k2, m1, k1 r13) k4, [(k1, sl1 wyif)x7], k4 r14) k1, m1, k3, [k1 tbl, sl1 wyif, (k1, sl1 wyif)x5, k1 tbl, sl1 wyif], k3, m1, k1 r15) k5, [(k1, sl1 wyif)x7], k5 r16) k1, ssk, k2, [(k1, sl1 wyif)x2, yo, (k1, sl1)x3, yo, (k1, sl1)x2], k2, k2tog, k1 r17) k4, [(k1, sl1 wyif )x2, yo, sl1 wyif, (k1, sl1 wyif)x3, yo, sl1 wyif, (k1, sl1 wyif)x2], k4 r18 & 19) k4, [(k1, sl1 wyif)x2, k1 tbl, sl1 wyif, (k1, sl1 wyif)x3, k1 tbl, sl1 wyif, (k1, sl1 wyif)x2], k4. r20) k1, ssk, k1, [(k1, sl1 wyif)x3, yo, (k1, sl1 wyif)x3, yo, (k1, sl1 wyif)x3], k1, k2tog, k1 r21) k3, [(k1, sl1 wyif)x3, yo, sl1 wyif, (k1, sl1 wyif)x3, yo, sl1 wyif, (k1, sl1 wyif)x3], k3 r22 & 23) k3, [(k1, sl1 wyif)x3, k1 tbl, sl1 wyif, (k1, sl1 wyif)x3, k1 tbl, sl1 wyif, (k1, sl1 wyif)x3], k3. r24) k1, ssk, [(k1, sl1 wyif)x3, yo, (k1, sl1 wyif)x5, yo, (k1, sl1 wyif)x3], k2tog, k1 r25) k2, [(k1, sl1 wyif)x3, yo, sl1 wyif, (k1, sl1 wyif)x5, yo, sl1 wyif, (k1, sl1 wyif)x3], k2 r26 & 27) k2,[(k1, sl1 wyif)x3, k1 tbl, sl1 wyif, (k1, sl1 wyif)x5, k1 tbl, sl1 wyif, (k1, sl1 wyif)x3], k2. r28) ssk, [(k1, sl1 wyif)x3, yo, (k1, sl1 wyif)x7, yo, (k1, sl1 wyif)x3], k2tog r29) k1, [(k1, sl1 wyif)x3, yo, sl1 wyif, (k1, sl1 wyif)x7, yo, sl1 wyif, (k1, sl1 wyif)x3], k1 r30 & 31) k1, [(k1, sl1 wyif)x3, k1 tbl, sl1 wyif, (k1, sl1 wyif)x7, k1 tbl, sl1 wyif, (k1, sl1 wyif)x3], k1. On the next row, place the slipped stitches onto a separate dpn from the knit stitches. This is the transition from working double knitting flat to working circular knitting in the round; those slipped stitches will eventually be worked off of their holding needle. Add in extra needles as needed to be able to work in the round. round 32) sl1 wyif, PM to mark the new start of the round, (k1, sl1 wyif)x15, k1, (begin working in the round), k16. ( The last stitch will be the first stitch slipped at the beginning of the round. Total 32st) r33) knit r34) k3, inc1, k16, inc1, k13 r35) knit r36) k13, inc1, k17, inc1, k4 r37) knit
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Continue to knit until 4.25in (11cm) long (or as long as desired, generally at this point the piece will need to be 0.5in (12mm) longer than whatever needs to fit inside.). Bind off. On the inside edge of the bound off squid (the purl side), count 2 rounds down and pick up and knit 36st around in the purl bar of the stitches in that 2nd round, being sure to place the start of the round in the same place. Work an additional 0.75in (2cm) or until the squid is 5in (13cm) long or 1in (2.5cm) longer than the item it needs to fit. Decrease 6st evenly around: (k4, k2tog)x6 = 30st. Work 1r more. Begin tentacles: There are 10 tentacles; 8 small tentacles which come to a point and are purely decorative and 2 long feeding tentacles which end in a flat portion and can be utilized as carry straps. They are all made from I-cord and all begin with 3 stitches. I-cord is worked by knitting the row and then, instead of turning, the finished row is pushed to the other end of the dpn and the row is knit across again. This forms a small, hollow tube. Periodically tugging on the bottom of the I-cord helps even out its shape. Tug on it a bit before measuring the length. Feeding tentacle 1: Slip the last 2 stitches of the round onto the working needle. Knit the first stitch of the round and then backwards loop CO 2 additional stitches. Work these 5 stitches as I-cord. When the tentacle is 5in (13cm) long begin working flat for the next row (if you make the body of the squid longer, consider lengthening the feeding tentacles to match): Turn row 1) sl1, k4 r2) sl1, m1, k3, m1, k1 r3-7) sl1, k6 r8) sl1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1 r9) sl1, k4 r10) sl1, (sl2 kwise, k1, psso), k1 r11) sl2 kwise, k1, psso Cut yarn and pull end through. Small tentacles 1-4: Slip the next 3st onto a needle, backwards loop CO 1 more stitch, and work 4st I-cord until 2.5in (6.5cm) long. Then, without turning, k2tog twice. Again without turning, k2tog once more. Cut yarn and pull end through. Continue this way for 3 more tentacles. Feeding tentacle 2: Work as given, beginning with the next 3 stitches. An optional buttonhole can be worked on row 5 of the flat end by working row 5: r5) sl1, k2, yo, k2tog, k2 Alternately, the tentacle may be worked identically from the first and hook/loop tape or snaps can be sewn to the tentacles later, or they may simply be sewn together for a permanent strap. Small tentacles 5-8: Work as given. Weave in all the ends. Wash and lightly block the squid if desired.

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Sew the eyes to either side of the head, slightly lower than the mid-line of the feeding tentacles. Sew the desired fastener to the feeding tentacle(s). If using a button, sew it on with the same yarn. LINING Resize the template as necessary to fit the squid; the seam line should be the same size as the body of the squid less the thickness of the knit fabric. If your squid is proportionally longer or shorter, cut where marked to adjust the length of the template to fit your squid. Using the template, bias cut two pieces fabric to match; the diagonal line on the template should be parallel to the selvedge. This allows the fabric to stretch a little during use. Note: if using stretchy material such as jersey (t-shirt material, etc.), cutting on the bias is unnecessary. With the wrong side of the fabric facing out, seam the lining together and baste together the top as marked on the template. Clip the fabric as marked and press the seams back. Remove the basting thread. Fold the top edge down and press flat, and repeat, as indicated on the template (the top quarter inch, and then the next half inch). Stitch through all three layers an eighth of an inch from the first fold, creating a sleeve for the drawstring. Repeat for the other side. Place the lining on the inside of the squid so the seam is centered under the feeding tentacles, and the top corners frame either feeder tentacle's 3 stitches. Line up the top edge to just below where the tentacles begin. Pin securely below the drawstring sleeve seam. Fold the fabric down and blind stitch the lining to the squid through the thin fold of fabric below the seam at the bottom of the sleeve. Stitches should be spaced no more than half an inch apart and should not go all the way through the yarn or be visible anywhere except where the fabric and the yarn touch. Repeat for the other side. Then, unfold the lining and blind stitch the top of the sleeve to the squid, spacing the stitches no more than a quarter inch apart. Again, repeat for the other side. Then, with the safety pin or bodkin, thread a cord through the sleeves so it forms one complete loop around the squid opening and then knot the ends together. Repeat with the other cord so the knot is at the opposite sleeve opening. Make sure the cords are long enough to easily tie closed when the drawstring is tightened and then trim the ends. To close the bag, pull on the knots and then tie. To make a 10-11 long thin cord from yarn: Take a 28-30 long piece of DK to worsted weight yarn. Tie a small loop at either end, big enough for a finger tip. Securing one end, twist the other end (in the same direction as the twist of the yarn) until the strand is very tightly twisted. Bring the two ends together and allow it to spring into a cord. Smooth the twist along the length if it is uneven, and then knot the two ends together. Trim or untie the previous knots, making sure to leave at least a quarter inch of a tail. Make 2.

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