EFI Swap Guide

12/16/11 EF Sap Guide.
1/18 ef-honda.com/ben/EFsapguide.html
EF Swap guide. B Ben Ogle Ogle6@hotmail.com
So you have an EF/ED. Chances are that it is slow as fuck, especially if you ended up with a DX, LX, STD or
some other long-geared, gas-saving, dual point model. So this guide is here to help you decide how you want to
make faster without the aid of forced induction (well, you can go that route too but its not covered). If you are a
newbie read EVERYTHING here. That way you will spend less time asking questions on message boards. Also,
I didn't feel like reiterating everything in every specific motor section so read at least the first few before you
scroll down to the motor you want to get.
B-series. These are by far the most popular swaps. They are fairly easy for the average joe to do and are pretty
fast right out of the box (errrclip). But in doing a b-series swap you WILL need to do some things in order for
this swap to work:
- Get some mounts. I like Hasports as do many others but Place Racing, HCP, and some others make them as
well. NOTE: the B16 JRSC fits with Place Racing mounts in the EF chassis. I have done it. I don't know about
the other mount kits. If you know, please tell me.
- You have to either find EF SiR shift linkage or you can shorten 90-93 integra shift linkage by 2-3/8" . I do the
latter because DA linkage is easy to find and its cheap. I also always shorten it in the straightest portion possible.
The 3rd option is to get some adjustable shift linkage From Hasport or Place Racing.
- You need (maybe not NEED) a tranny that has a Cable actuated clutch. This will be covered on a case by
case basis in the motor portion of this guide.
- If you have a Dual-Point car you will NEED to convert it to Multi-Point. If you are going the VTEC route you
will need to wire the VTEC stuff in all EFs no matter the trim level.
- MPFI wiring article I wrote is here and some links are here and here.
- VTEC wiring; wires to add if using PR3/PW0:
Pin A8 - VTEC solenoid.
Pin B5 - VTEC oil pressure switch (plug with 2 wires, Black is ground)
Pin B19 - Knock sensor.
Pin C8 - Second oxygen sensor
- Get some 90-93 integra axles, JDM EF SiR axles (good luck finding them if they didn't come with your swap)
or get custom ones. You need to have a 90-93 teg intermediate shaft with the teg axles and an SiR int shaft with
the SiR axles. If you get customs ones ask the manufacturer of the axles which intermediate shaft you should use.
- If using 90-93 axles, take out the dust rings on your knuckles. Also take off the dust rings on the axles. It sucks
but you pretty much need the clearance for the axles. Try to stay out of the dirt. ;)
- You need a 90-93 integra throttle cable (except if you are going JRSC, then you can use the stock one).
- You need to make a large dent in the frame rail right below the shock tower (right under the rectangular hole).
This dent clears the alternator pulley. NOTE: if you're putting a JRSC in this dent will NEED to be further
forward and a lot deeper. Trust me. Experience talking. We pulled the motor a few times messing with this.
- Your stock exhaust probably wont bolt up (if it does you are lucky). If you are using a stock exhaust manifold
on the b-series then you can use you stock D-series down pipe on the b-series manifold. But what you really
should do is get rid of the stock manifold, buy a header, and get some 2.25" exhaust made at a muffler shop. Or
you could buy an aftermarket cat-back exhaust and get it modified to fit. Either way you WILL want to get rid of
that 1.5" crush bent stock crap and the stock header/downpipe.
B-series ECU pin outs are here.
I know this sounds like a lot oI stuII but it really isn't when you get down to it.
D-eie.
Your car comes stock with a d-series engine. These bolt right in with out mount kits. You can use your stock
shiIt linkage, axles, mounts, and even the tranny iI you want (you'll want to Iind an Si one).
H-eie.
You are on your own. Few people have done it and IMO its not worth the eIIort unless its going into an 88 CRX
HI (1819lbs stock) and even then it would be a huge pain. II you want an H-series buy an early low-model EG
hatch. Your time will be better spent and the cars aren't all that much heavier than a low model EF. II you are
learning a lot by what you are reading right now this is NOT the swap Ior you.
On with the engines.
B-eie VTEC moo:
Engine: 1988-1991 JDM B16A
Displacement: 1595cc
Compression Ratio: 10.2:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.74
Hp/Torque: 160hp7600rpm/112lb-It7000rpm
Transmission: JDM S1, J1, Y1, A1 (cable)
OBD: 0
ECU: integra motor - PR3, civic motor - PW0. But the motor can be run with a PR4 and an RPM switch or a
PS9 with DaveB's wonderIul one-wire VTEC chip (PM6's can be converted too).
This is one oI the easiest B-series swaps to do (and the most common). You can get Iull swaps Ior $1200-1600
depending on where you get it Irom and iI you get any special stuII with it (like, Ior instance the LSD tranny
which is a GREAT thing to get). II you can, try to get a motor Irom an EF SiR. That way you get the axles and
shiIt linkage that were made Ior your car. It goes in like butta. But iI you get an integra motor those are ok too.
The shiIt linkage will need to be shortened and the axles will work. The car will need to be wired Ior only VTEC
iI you have an Si, HI, or EX. II you have an LX, DX, STD or another dual point car I Iorgot then the car will
have to be wired Ior multipoint as well.
For Multipoint wiring go here. I printed that out and have used it every time I wired a DPFI car. Its invaluable.
For VTEC wiring I just make my own harness Irom other harnesses I have laying around (or Irom the one that
came with the swap). I run a plug Irom the ECU to the passenger side plug holder (there is already a spot Ior it!)
and then run the other side oI the plug to all the VTEC sensors.
The tranny supplied with the motor is great. The only problem with b16 trannies is the 3rd gear grinds. They are
tough to Iind without.
Stock B16 EF's typically run high 14s to low 15s down the drag strip. Pretty damn good Ior a 1.6 liter.
Engine: 1992-p JDM B16A
Hp/Torque: 170hp7800rpm/116lb-It7300
Transmission: Y21, S4C (hydraulic)
OBD: 1
ECU: P30
This is the same motor as above but out oI a 92-95 civic SIR (with higher compression), so the motor will be, oI
course, newer. These go Ior $1500-$2000. The problems are with the OBD1 and the hydraulic clutch trannies
and because oI these problems they really aren't a great choice Ior our generation civics.
The OBD problem:
Your car is OBD0 and this motor is OBD1. Almost all oI the wiring is diIIerent. So you can convert the motor to
obd0 by installing a 1g b16 distributor, getting an OBD0 VTEC ECU, and getting a whole bunch oI OBD0
sensors (or putting OBD1 plugs on your OBD0 harness). You can utilize the OBD 1 injectors iI you don't use an
injector resistor box.
The other option is to convert your whole car to OBD1. There is a lot oI work involved. Heres a link:
http://www.geocities.com/kurtsion/page7.html
The tranny problem:
Your car uses a Cable actuated clutch. The tranny is meant to go in a car with a hydraulic actuated clutch. There
are kits available to use the hydro trannies in cable cars. Hasport has a hydro-tranny-in-an-EF mount kit out now
so you can check out their site www.hasport.com .
The easier path is to sell the hydro tranny (which go Ior quite a bit more than cable trannies) and buy a B16 cable
tranny. Expect to pay around $300 Ior a non LSD one and about $600 iI you can Iind an LSD one.
Engine: 1993-1995 USDM B16A2/3
Transmission: Y21 (hydraulic)
OBD: 1
ECU: P30
This motor came out oI the 94-95 Del Sol VTECs and is the same as above but with lower compression and
weaker Iuel/ignition maps in the ECU.
Engine: 1996-1997 & 1999-2000 USDM B16A
Transmission: S4C (hydraulic)
OBD: 2
ECU: 99-00 - P2T
The 96-97 motors came out oI DelSol VTECs, and the 99-00 motors came Irom Civic Si's. These are going to
be expensive iI you can Iind one. The same stuII Irom the OBD1 motor applies.
The OBD problem:
Your car is OBD0 and this motor is OBD2. All oI the wiring is diIIerent. You can convert the motor to obd0 by
installing a 1g b16 distributor, getting an OBD0 VTEC ECU, and getting a Iew OBD0 sensors (or putting OBD2
plugs on your OBD0 harness). You can use the OBD 2 injectors iI you don't use an injector resistor box.
You're not going to want to convert the car to OBD2. II you really want to convert the car to a diIIerent OBD,
go to OBD1. Then you will still have to convert the motor to OBD 1 but that's not as hard as going Irom OBD1
- 0 or OBD 2 - 0.
The tranny problem:
The other path is to sell the hydro tranny (which go Ior quite a bit more than cable trannies) and buy a B16 cable
Egie: 1992-1993 USDM B17A1
Transmission: YS1 (short geared cable)
OBD: 1
ECU: P61 (pretty much a P30)
This motor came ONLY in 92-93 integra GS-R's. It is essentially a stroked B16 with low compression. The
B17 and B16 blocks are the same in all aspects except the block stamp. The diIIerence is in the crank, rods, and
pistons (lower comp). The b17 cams are also better than the 88-97 b16 cams. These are great motors but are a
tad hard to Iind and the price varies a ton. II you can, try and get one with a stock GS-R tranny. It is one oI the
shortest geared ones out there and it's a cable tranny(!). UnIortunately they only came in OBD1 so again you
have some choices.
The OBD problem:
obd0 by installing a 1g b16 distributor, getting an OBD0 VTEC ECU, and getting a Iew OBD0 sensors (or
putting OBD1 plugs on your OBD0 harness). You can utilize the OBD 1 injectors iI you don't use an injector
resistor box. II you get a PW0 or PR3 I would suggest getting it chipped Ior the displacement increase. This is oI
course not as good as dyno tuning but it helps.
The other option is to convert your whole car to OBD1. There is a lot oI work involved. Here's a link:
Engine: 1994-1995 USDM B18C1
OBD: 1
ECU: P72
This motor is out oI a 94-95 GS-R. It does not share too many components with the B16. It has, among other
things, a diIIerent head (p72 as opposed to pr3), more aggressive cams, and a taller block. It also has a "Dual
Runner" intake maniIold. But like most the others this motor is OBD1 and hydro tranny equipped. Expect to pay
around $3200 Ior the whole swap.
The OBD problem:
obd0 by installing a 1g b16 distributor, getting an OBD0 VTEC ECU, and getting a Iew OBD0 sensors (or
putting OBD1 plugs on your OBD0 harness). II you go this route you will have to get rid oI the dual runner
intake maniIold by buying a skunk2 maniIold. This is because the OBD0 VTEC ECUs don't support the dual
runners. Again, you can utilize the OBD 1 injectors iI you don't use an injector resistor box. II you get a PW0 or
PR3 I would suggest getting it chipped Ior the displacement increase. This is oI course not as good as dyno
tuning but it helps.
The other option is to convert your whole car to OBD1. There is a lot oI work involved. Heres a link:
The tranny problem:
Engine: 1996-p USDM B18C1
OBD: 2
ECU: P72
This is the OBD2 version oI the above motor and it came in 96-01 GS-R's. Other than the wiring it is the same
as above. Expect to pay around $3000-$4000 Ior the whole swap.
The OBD problem:
Your car is OBD0 and this motor is OBD2. All oI the wiring is diIIerent. You can convert the motor to obd0 by
installing a 1g b16 distributor, getting an OBD0 VTEC ECU, and getting a Iew OBD0 sensors (or putting OBD2
plugs on your OBD0 harness). II you go this route you will have to get rid oI the dual runner intake maniIold by
buying a skunk2 maniIold. This is because the OBD0 VTEC ECUs don't support the dual runners. Again, you
can utilize the OBD 2 injectors iI you don't use an injector resistor box. II you get a PW0 or PR3 I would
suggest getting it chipped Ior the displacement increase. This is oI course not as good as dyno tuning but it helps.
- 0 or OBD 2 - 0.
The tranny problem:
are kits available to use the hydro trannies in cable cars. Hasport now makes a mount kit with hydro-cable
conversion pieces and the special hydro tranny mount. Check out their site www.hasport.com .
Engine: 1996-p JDM B18C
Transmission: Y80, S80 (hydraulic/optional LSD)
OBD: 2
ECU: P72
Same motor as the 96 USDM motor but with higher compression and an optional LSD tranny. These motors
are probably easier to Iind than the USDM motors because you can get them Irom one oI the many engine
importers. Expect to pay around $3200 Ior the whole swap. Other than that see the USDM 96 B18C listing
above.
Engine: 1997-p JDM B16B
Transmission: S80 w/ LSD (hydraulic)
OBD: 2
ECU: PCT
The B16B is a one oI a kind Honda 1.6liter. It came Irom the JDM Civic Type R and shares a block with the
Integra Type R B18C5 but has a shorter stoke and longer rods giving it that rev-happy 1.77 rod stroke ratio
(highest oI all the B-series motors). B16B's also have more aggressive cams than even the B18C5/R motors.
These motors are Iairly rare and very rarely swapped into anything. This is probably because they go Ior around
$3800 (whole swap). That's $600 more than the JDM B18C1 which has only 5hp less and 10lb-It more torque
(at lower RPM, too).
The OBD problem:
This motor is OBD2. All oI the wiring is diIIerent. You can convert the motor to obd0 by installing a 1g b16
distributor (OBD0 B18a dist will work with modiIication), getting an OBD0 VTEC ECU, and getting a Iew
OBD0 sensors (or putting OBD2 plugs on your OBD0 harness). You can utilize the OBD 2 injectors iI you
don't use an injector resistor box.
- 0 or OBD 2 - 0.
The tranny problem:
are kits available to use the hydro trannies in cable cars. Hasport now makes a mount kit with hydro-cable
conversion pieces and the special hydro tranny mount. Check out their site www.hasport.com .
Engine: 1997-p USDM B18C5
OBD: 2
ECU: P73
Out oI 97 Integra Type Rs this motor is Honda's king-dingaling 1.8 liter. It Ieatures larger cams/better valve
train than the B18C1, Iactory polished PR3 Head (diIIerent than the B18C1's P72), short/Iat single runner intake
maniIold, 14lb Ilywheel (4 lbs lighter than all the other B-series motors), and a very short geared LSD tranny.
These swaps typically run $4300-$4700 depending on where you get it.
The OBD problem:
This motor is OBD2. All oI the wiring is diIIerent. You can convert the motor to obd0 by installing a 1g b16
distributor (OBD0 B18a dist will work with modiIication), getting an OBD0 VTEC ECU, and getting a Iew
OBD0 sensors (or putting OBD2 plugs on your OBD0 harness). You can utilize the OBD 2 injectors iI you
don't use an injector resistor box. These injectors are no bigger than normal b-series injectors.
You're probably not going to want to convert the car to OBD2. II you really want to convert the car to a
diIIerent OBD, go to OBD1. Then you will still have to convert the motor to OBD 1 but that's not as hard as
going Irom OBD1 - 0 or OBD 2 - 0. This motor does, however, run very well on its native OBD2.
The tranny problem:
Your car uses a Cable actuated clutch. The tranny is meant to go in a car with a hydraulic actuated clutch.
However, there are kits available to use the hydro trannies in cable cars. Hasport now makes a mount kit with
hydro-cable conversion pieces and the special hydro tranny mount (get it; ITR trannies are the best stock b-
series tranny). Check out their site www.hasport.com .
The other path is to sell the hydro tranny (ITR trannies go Ior a LOT) and buy a B16 cable tranny. Expect to pay
around $300 Ior a non LSD one and about $600 iI you can Iind an LSD one (get an LSD one at the very least).
Engine: 1995-up JDM B18C-R
OBD: 2
ECU: P73
This motor is the same as the USDM B18C5 but with higher compression. See above.
Engine: Poorman's Tpe R
Compression Ratio: ?
Hp/Torque: ?
Transmission: ?
OBD: ?
ECU: ?
This motor is a B18C1 block (94 GSR) with a b16 head. Some people buy B16 swaps, drive them Ior a while
then swap the B16 block out Ior a B18C1 one. This is a pretty good alternative to the B18C in EFs because you
can get an LSD equipped B16 Ior $1400 then a B18c block Ior around $700-$1k and then you already have all
the OBD0 stuII. Also, this motor gives you the ability to build/rebuild the block slowly while still driving your
swapped car. UnIortunately B18C short blocks are hard to Iind and go quick when you do Iind them.
It is recommended to get some higher compression pistons and a better valve train/cams. Might as well, right?
Engine: LS/VTEC CR/VTEC
Displacement: 1834cc - 1973cc and up
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.54 (this stas the same)
Hp/Torque: ?
Transmission: ?
OBD: ?
ECU: ?
In these ou essentiall take a non-vtec block like the b18a/b or the b20b/ and put a VTEC head on. The idea
is to take the low end torque of the non-vtec motors and combine it with the high rpm power of the VTEC
motors. People do it and succeed in making a lot of power but a lot of people do it and just end up with a blown
motor. These motors range from "stock" LS/VTECs where someone slaps a stock head on a stock non-vtec
block (this is dumb), to full built monsters.
The main reason a lot of people don't like them (me included) is because of the low rod/stroke ratios inherent in
the non-vtec blocks. This low r/s ratio stresses the bottom end a bunch. If ou'll notice, Honda reduced the
stroke from the B18A/B to the B18C. Now if the B18C is supposed to be a more performance oriented motor
wh didn't the keep the displacement? For the better r/s ratio.
Another reason is that the non-vtec blocks don't come with some of the features that the VTEC blocks. These
include oil squirters, block girdles (on the B18C's), and a ver balanced bottom end.
The upside to this is that the have the potential to make a large amount of power. Its up to ou. I am not going
to sa anmore because there are SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO man threads on message boards all over the
internet.
For info: Search on www.honda-tech.com or www.g2ic.com or one of the man others. Links:
http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=69114
http://www.lsvtec.org/
http://www.g2ic.com/tegtips/engine/6.html
http://www.indsol.com/resource/lsvtec.html
B-Seie NON-VTEC moo:
Engine: 1990-1991 USDM B18A1
Hp/Torque: 130hp@6000rpm/121lb-ft@5000rpm
Transmission: S1, Y1, YS1, A1 (91 onl) (cable)
OBD: 0
ECU: PR4
The B18A1 is out oI 90-91 integras. This is one oI the easiest swaps out there especially iI you have an Si, HI,
or an EX. II you don't, then you need to wire Ior multi-point. That's it.
These motors are readily available as well. People oIten swap motors into their 90-91 integras so they have
these pretty-much-complete swaps just laying around. You cant Iind them at engine importers but quite a Iew
people sell them on www.g2ic.com and you could probably Iind a Iew at junkyards. I picked up a whole swap
minus wiring harness and axles Ior $500. Cant beat that with a stick, eh? The downside to this is mileage on the
motors and the Iact that some people swap motors in their integras because the stock B18A is going out the
door.
PerIormance is good. I had a B18a in my civic Ior a Iew months and it was a good motor. Great Ior daily driving
and just enough torque Ior the tight autocrosses we occasionally have. I took it to the drag strip once and netted
a 15.1 91mph in two runs at 2240It above sea level.
Engine: 1992-1993 USDM B18A1
Transmission: USDM YS1 (cable)
OBD: 1
ECU: OBD1 PR4
This B18A1 is out oI 92-93 non-GSR integras. It is the same motor as the 90-91 B18A but with slightly larger
cams and a (supposedly) better Ilowing intake maniIold. These usually go Ior a Iew bucks more than the 90-91
motors.
This motor is OBD1 so you will have to either rewire your car or convert the motor to OBD0. I would suggest
converting the motor. Its pretty cheap and very easy to do. You will need a 90-91 B18a distributor and ECU.
For the injectors you have to wire them without an injector resistor box. And the only plug Irom the OBD1
harness you cant use with ease is going to be the distributor plug. So you will need to Iind one and may have to
buy an entire engine harness (I get them Ior $35 at the junkyard, not a big deal). Or you could use the OBD1/2
plugs and put them on your OBD0 dist. That's all. Cake.
Engine: 1994-U USDM B18B1
Transmission: USDM S80 (hydraulic, long gears)
OBD: 1 or 2
ECU: P75
The B18B1 comes Irom 94 non-GSR integras. This motor diIIers Irom the 92-93 motor in that it has a diIIerent
head casting (P75 as opposed to PR4), ever so slightly larger cams, a (again, supposedly) better Ilowing intake
maniIold, and a little more aggressive ECU tuning. The motors are also obviously newer than any oI the other
non-VTEC B18s and are most likely in better shape.
For 94-95 this motor was OBD1 and Ior 96 it was OBD2. Either way it is easy to convert them to OBD0 by
getting a 90-91 B18a distributor and ECU. For the injectors you have to wire them without an injector resistor
box. And the only plug Irom the OBD1 harness you cant use with ease is going to be the distributor plug. So you
will need to Iind one and may have to buy an entire engine harness (I get them Ior $35 at the junkyard, not a big
deal). Or you could use the OBD1/2 plugs and put them on your OBD0 dist. Its up to you.
Egie: 1996-1998 USDM B20B
Transmission: ?
OBD: 2
ECU: Don't know/care. You wont use it.
These are Irom 97-98 CRV's. Don't be Iooled by the low hp/tq rating, these motors came with the crappiest
intake maniIolds and exhaust maniIolds known to man. II you do this swap you wont use either as the intake
maniIold wont Iit in your car (its called the giraIIe Ior a reason) and you will get a diIIerent header (even a stock
integra maniIold is WAY better). The USDM B20B is essentially a B18B1 with 84mm sleves/pistons. Everything
else is the same: head, cams, crank, rods, etc. So you can think oI it as a bored, low compression B18a/b.
For this motor you will want to get just a long block because the tranny, wiring, ECU, and even the intake and
exhaust maniIolds are not needed (some long blocks may come with them, though). Because oI this it is wise to
get a whole B18A swap and sell the B18. That way you wont have to search around Ior a whole bunch oI parts
that you didn't anticipate needing. Trust me.
Intake maniIold: You can use them Irom any non-vtec B18, a B20Z, or you can buy a skunk2 mani. I would
suggest a B18B or skunk2 one. The skunk2 IM because it is supposedly the "mod to get" Ior the B20s, and the
B18B IM because it is the best Ilowing oI the B18 bunch. II you get a B18 or B20 IM then try and get it
complete (Iuel rail, injectors, TB and the like). I will cover the B20Z IM in the B20Z section.
Exhaust maniIold: Get a header. II you want to be cheap you can use a stock integra one.
Tranny: Any B-series cable tranny will work. II you really want to use a hydro tranny or have one laying around
get Hasport's mount kit Ior hydro trannies.
Wiring: You will have to convert the motor to OBD0. You do this by getting a 90-91 B18a distributor and ECU
and putting them in your car. For the injectors you have to wire them without an injector resistor box. And the
only plug Irom the OBD1 harness you cant use with ease is going to be the distributor plug. So you will need to
Iind one and may have to buy an entire engine harness (I get them Ior $35 at the junkyard, not a big deal). Or
you could use the OBD1/2 plugs and put them on your OBD0 dist. Its up to you.
Egie: 1999-2000 USDM B20Z
Transmission: ?
OBD: 2
This is the high compression version oI the USDM B20B. It came out oI 99-00 CRV's and is the king oI all the
non-vtec B-series motors. It comes with an intake cam that is .3mm larger in liIt, a shorter/better intake maniIold,
and oI course higher compression.
For this motor you will want to get just a long block because the tranny, wiring, ECU, and exhaust maniIold is
not needed. Because oI this it is wise to get a whole B18A swap and sell the B18. That way you wont have to
search around Ior a whole bunch oI parts that you didn't anticipate needing. Trust me.
Intake maniIold: With this motor you can use the stock one. But you cannot use the chamber on top because it
doesn't clear the hood (I've tried it). Without that chamber there is a big gaping hole in the top oI the IM and
you, quite obviously, don't want that. What I did was make a plug out oI UHMW plastic on the lathe to the same
size as the chamber inlet and then put the chamber inlet rubber seal on my plug. It works well and I haven't had
any vacuum leaks.
II you want to use the B20z throttle body (its 60mm as opposed to the 90-93 TB which is 58mm) then you
either have to use the stock throttle cable bracket and mounting position (its straight up and down, it sucks). The
better alternative (IMO) is to make a bracket that bolts onto the unused threaded holes that look to be in the
same location as the throttle cable bracket on B18 IM's. The holes aren't in the same position and that is why
you need to make a bracket. My bracket is out oI 1/8" steel. It bolts to those holes and a stock B18 bracket
bolts to my bracket. II you go this route you will need to use a throttle plate pulley (the throttle cable pulls on this
to open the throttle) Irom a 90-93 integra.
II you want to use the stock CRV injectors you can. But I didn't know the size oI them and they were
signiIicantly physically smaller than my B18 injectors, so I used the B18 ones. These are taller than the B20
injectors. To make them Iit I put one B18A (d16a6 ones will work too) Iuel rail spacer under each oI the 3 Iuel
rail studs on the B20 mani (between the stud and the IM, they do not Iit between the rail and the stud). I had to
put a drill through the all oI the spacer's holes so they would Iit over the stud's threads.
II you insist on not using the stock IM you can use one Irom any non-vtec B18 or you can buy a skunk2 mani. II
you are going to use a B18 one and you don't already have one, get the B18B IM because it is the best Ilowing
oI the b18 bunch. II you get a B18 IM try and get it complete (Iuel rail, injectors, TB and the like).
Feel Iree to read more about the intake maniIold stuII here.
Exhaust maniIold: Get a header. II you want to be cheap you can use a stock integra one.
Tranny: Any B-series cable tranny will work. II you really want to use a hydro tranny or have one laying around
get hasport's mount kit Ior hydro trannies.
Wiring: You will have to convert the motor to OBD0. You do this by getting a 90-91 B18a distributor and ECU
and putting them in your car. For the injectors you have to wire them without an injector resistor box. And the
only plug Irom the OBD1 harness you cant use with ease is going to be the distributor plug. So you will need to
Iind one and may have to buy an entire engine harness (I get them Ior $35 at the junkyard, not a big deal). Or
you could use the OBD1/2 plugs and put them on your OBD0 dist. Its up to you.
A comparison between the B20B and Z with dyno charts exists and is at http://hybrid2.honda-
perI.org/tech/b20/b20dyno.html
I have this motor in my car now and it rules. It is happy going Iast anywhere above 3k and putts around town
with no problem at 1500-3k. It also kicks major ass at auto-x events. The power is great, even Ior the long
auto-x events we oIten have on the road course (80 mph straights). I went to the drag strip and pulled a
14.4295 on my Iirst oI 3 runs at 2240It on a 100deg F day. I must say that this motor is WAY more Iun than
the B18A ever was. Oh yeah, and I'm getting 34 miles to the gallon on a chipped ECU when I drive sane.
Engine: 1995 o o-2000 JDM B20B
Compression Ratio: 8.8:1, 9.2:1, 9.6:1
Hp/Torque: up to146hp6200rpm/133lb-It4500rpm
Transmission: ?
OBD: 2
These motors are a mixed bag. Who knows what you're going to get when you buy your long block Irom an
importer. There is no real concrete inIormation available that accurately maps out which motor came Irom which
years/cars. So I will attempt you tell you and at the very least tell you how to identiIy your motor (hopeIully
without taking the head oII).
In general the 95 - 98 motors are the 8.8:1 compression motors and are exactly like the USDM B20B. They
have the tall intake maniIold and no knock sensor on the back oI the block. II there is no knock sensor then you
have an 8.8:1 compression motor. II you want to take oII the head you will Iind the letters P3F on the top oI the
slightly dished piston.
Most oI the 99-2000 motors are oI the 9.6:1 compression variety and are just like the USDM B20Z. These
motors have the short intake maniIold with the chamber on top and a knock sensor. II you have a knock sensor
on the back oI the block, the motor is most likely has 9.6:1 compression. The pistons are almost Ilat and have a
PHK designation.
I have read that the 9.2:1 motors exist but I have seen no prooI. I don't know what they are out oI or what the
ideifig a ae. M ge i ha if ge e i i be iae f a 9.6:1 . If hae a if
hi eae e e .
If g a ih he a aifd ee he USDM B20B eci. If cae ih a h aifd ee
he USDM B20Z eci.
Eec a $700-$800 f a g bc.
Engine: Up o 1991 USDM B20A/B21A
Diacee: 1958cc 2056cc
Cei Rai: 9.0:1 9.4:1
Rd/e ai: e ha 1.54
H/Te: 104h@5800/111b-f@4000 140h@5800/135b-f@5000
Taii: ?
OBD: 0
ECU: D' /cae.
Thee cae f 88-91 ede (abe he ). Thee egie ae h aig i ciic.
D' be fed b he ice f he. The ae egaded a he f a he Hda egie ad ae' ee
icded i b20 dici. The ge hei diacee iceae b a e g e (95 a ed
he B18A' aead g 89). Thi ea ha he hae e h d. Tha ea a d/e ai
hich a f e he b ed ce (c a, d, ec.).
D-Seie: Some geneal D16 info hee
Engine: 1988 o 1991 USDM D16A6
Diacee: 1590cc
Cei Rai: 9.1:1
Rd/e ai: 1.52
H/Te: 108h@6000/100b-f@5000
Taii: Si L3
OBD: 0
ECU: PM6 (PS9 if a EX)
Thi egie cae i 88-91 CRX Si', 89-91 Ciic Si', ad 90-91 Ciic EX'. S if ae aig hi
he bab hae a Da-Pi i hee . Thi a i he eaie f a a i he EF
chai. P d , ie f i-i ad ide he e i. Ea. The ea a eed i
a 90-93 iega CRX/Ciic Si he cabe.
Thee ca be had f e chea. A bdd f ie iced e f $75 ih 108K ie i. We
i i a 88 f d DX ad i a high 15'.
Engine: 1986 o 1989 USDM D16A1/3
Diacee: 1590cc
Cei Rai: 9.3:1 9.5:1
Rd/e ai: 1.52
Hp/Torque: up to 118hp6800rpm/103lb-It5700rpm
Transmission: ?
OBD: 0
ECU: PG6
These motors are out oI 86-89 integras. They don't Iit in the EF chassis without mounts and no one makes
mounts Ior them. I have also read that the tranny doesn't bolt up to any other D-Series motors. Also the DOHC
head does not Iit on any oI the other SOHC blocks. So don't get one oI these Ior your EF.
Engine: Up o 1991 ZC
Compression Ratio: 9.3:1 or 9.5:1
Transmission: ?
OBD: 0
ECU: PM7
These motors came Irom a whole bunch oI diIIerent cars in Japan (3g civics/crxs, 4g civics/crxs, 5g civics, and 1
and 2g integras). They came in a Iew diIIerent variations: carbed & pgmIi, SOHC and DOHC. They also came
in a Iew cars in Europe but the motor was called the D16A8/9 and came with a PM2 ECU. Here is a site Ior
identiIying the ZC: http://www.geocities.com/teampimports/zcIiles/wzc.htm II it is down here is the main part I
wanted you to read:
"The engine code will either state zc iI it is a Japanese model or d16a8 iI it is European model.
The second gen dohc zc will have a black valve cover with the bolts on the sides, and the Honda h at the exhaust
side oI the cover. There is a oil to water cooler on the back oI the block. Motor mounts are identical to an 88-
91 civic or crx's."
II you get the right one, these motors bolt in with no problems at all. The swap is just like the D16A6 swap. You
need a 90-93 integra or CRX/Civic Si throttle cable, then you need to wire Ior multi-point. That's all. These
motors can be run with a variety oI ECU's including (but probably not limited to) the PG7, PM7, PM6, PM2
(I've never ever seen one, not even on the internet), and PR4 (OBD0). Expect to pay around $500 Ior a ZC
long block (about the same as a 1g B16A long block, crazy eh?).
II anyone has more ZC inIo please let me know.
Engine: 1992 o 1995 USDM D16Z6
Transmission: Something Hydraulic
OBD: 1
ECU: P28
The SOHC VTEC D16Z6 came from 92-95 civic Si's and EX's. This is a fairl common swap because Z6's can
be had for fairl cheap. I have seen them go for as little as $200 and as much as $500 (trann ma or ma not be
included, but ou don't need it anwa). The onl problems are with the hdro trann (if ou get it) and the
OBD1.
The hdro trann isn't of much use to us 4g swap folks because it is a large pain to make work. The best solution
is to find an EF Si trann and be done with it. An D-series trann will work, like sa the ever so common DX
trann (wanna bu one? I have 3), but the Si trann has a lower final drive (same gears) than the DX one.
Shorter gears are our friend. Just sta awa from the 4 speed at all costs.
As far as the OBD goes ou have 2 options. You can make it eas on ourself and sta OBD0 or ou can
convert the car to OBD1. If ou sta OBD0 its going to be a little ghetto and there is no wa around it. Going
OBD1 at least has the potential to not be ghetto but some people still make it ghetto. Either wa, take our time.
For OBD0 ou first off need a D16A6 distributor. No, ou cant use our D15B2 dual-point one. The A6 dist
fits on the head but ou can onl secure it with 2 of the 3 bolts. One lines right up and the other two don't but
fortunatel one of those two is close enough to use. I suppose ou could cut the mounting ears off and weld them
on in the right location but that is a lot of work and I haven't seen it done et. Then ou need a wa to make
VTEC work. There are a variet of was to do this. MSD makes an RPM activated switch ou can use (shift
lights also contain one of these and I have seen people use them), ou can get a VAFC, ou can run a PR3 or
PW0 ECU (have to add another o2 sensor or get the ECU chipped to remove BOTH o2 sensors), or ou can
find a PS9 ECU and get it chipped with a 1 wire vtec program (one of the best was IMO). Here is a link to a
Z6 swap writeup.
If ou go for the gusto and decide to convert everthing to OBD1 then ou will need to get a P28 ECU and then
do a bunch of wiring. Here is a link to a reall good write-up on the Z6 swap and OBD1 conversion.
Engine: 1996 o 2000 USDM D16Y8
Hp/Torque: 127hp@6600rpm/107lb-ft@5500rpm
Transmission: Something Hdraulic
OBD: 2
ECU: P2P
This motor comes out of 96-2000 civic EXs. The block is essentiall the same as the a6 and 6 blocks, but the
head is a lot different. It has been said that the 6 head flows better than the 8 head at high rpm. This is due to
the port shapes and sies. There have been man threads on man message boards debating which one is better.
Here is a link to one. Also the 8 manifold has shorter, fatter runners and a larger plenum than an of the other d-
series manifolds. It has been called the "ITR manifold for the D-series."
If ou are not going for all out power then the head difference doesn't reall matter. This motor has higher
compression and a slightl larger cam than the Z6 and so even though the Z6 head is "better," stock for stock
they are about the same as far as moving your car. The Y8 head does have 1 advantage over the Z6 head for us
EF OBD0 d00ds. The A6 distributor bolts right up with no modification so there is less ghettoness with this
swap than with the z6. Other than the A6 dist you will need a way to activate VTEC which can be done a few
different ways. MSD makes an RPM activated switch you can use (shift lights also contain one of these and I
have seen people use them), you can get a VAFC, you can run a PR3 or PW0 ECU (have to add another o2
sensor or get the ECU chipped to remove BOTH o2 sensors), or you can find a PS9 ECU and get it chipped
with a 1 wire vtec program (one of the best ways IMO).
If you want to go OBD1 follow the link in the Z6 section. I have read that there are a few OBD1 distributors that
bolt onto the y8 head (like the CX one) so that shouldn't really be a problem.
Then you need to get a D series cable tranny. The hydro tranny isn't of much use to us EF swap folks because it
is a pain to make work. The best solution is to find an EF Si tranny and be done with it. Any D-series tranny will
work, like say the ever so common DX tranny (wanna buy one? I have 3), but the Si tranny has a lower final
drive (same gears) than the DX one. Shorter gears are your friend. Just stay away from the 4 speed at all costs.
Egie: ii-e
Displacement: 1493 - 1590cc
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.52 or 1.59
Hp/Torque: ?
Transmission: ?
OBD: probably 0
ECU: ?
This motor is the "LS/VTEC" for the D family. You take a D15 or D16 block and put a Z6 or Y8 head on there.
There is, however, a whole lot less risk in building these than there is with the LS/VTECs because of the price
and because most of the d16s (the ones you would use) come with essentially the same block (and therefore the
same or even HIGHER rod/stroke ratio). If you use a d16 you will end up with a r/s ratio of 1.52 if you use the
D15 block you end up with a r/s ratio of 1.59.
The usual, normal guy, good running mini-me consists of:
D16 or D15 block
Z6 head
Y8 intake manifold
B18A throttle body (2mm bigger than the Z6 and Y8 manis and 3mm larger than the A6 one)
PM6 and RPM switch (PS9 1 wire vtec is made for the D vtec swaps and is sooooooooooo much better than
any rpm switch)
CR info (not calculated by me):
d16a6 block, d16z6 head: 10.4:1 (Head has 34.6cc combustion chamber volume)
d16a6 block, d16y8 head: 11.2:1 (Head has 32.8cc combustion chamber volume)
d15b2 block, d16z6 head: 10.6:1 (Head has 34.6cc combustion chamber volume)
Here are some mini-me links:
hp://c.honda-pef.og/aicle/6ap/6ap.hml
hp://.geociie.com/chipman_13/mini-me-pa.hml
hp://.geociie.com/c_ebo/minime.hml
Z6 Y8 head compao:
hp://pb143.eboad.com/fhondadeiefm6.hoMeageRange?opicID=672.opic&a=21&op=34
So hee o hae i. I hae inclded all of he popla engine ap choice and hopefll hi help omeone.
Thank a bnch o Dan Pla (G2g on g2ic) fo leing me e hi engine heading and ing ome info fom hi
G2 ap gide.
If o find anhing ong ih hi le me kno. If o an o add o i, le me kno. So b on o iie.
Ben
Home

EFI Swap Guide

Загружено:

Сведения о документе

Исходное описание:

Авторское право

Доступные форматы

Поделиться этим документом

Поделиться или встроить документ

Параметры публикации

Этот документ был вам полезен?

Это неприемлемый материал?

Авторское право:

Доступные форматы

EFI Swap Guide

Загружено:

Авторское право:

Доступные форматы

12/16/11 EF Sap Guide.

Вам также может понравиться