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Number 2 | 2009
Colour Chronicle
A Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited Publication for the Textile, Leather, Paper and allied processing industries
30th year of publication
Contents
textile
Resin finish Garment finish
q&a
Textile an essential, rich heritage
10 13 17 20
paper
Surface sizing additives
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textile
Resin finish
High-end Resin finish
Purpose:
Excellent wash and wear properties No ironing or easy to iron Shape memory Washfast softness Washfast smoothness Wearing comfort
textile
10
12
14
500
1000
1500
2000
2500
textile
1 1
2 2
3 4
3.5 6
4 8
5 10
100% Cotton
Arkofix NDF liq c 40 - 60 Catalyst NKS liq 10 - 15 Ceraperm SAP liq 20 Solusoft UP liq 30 Hydroperm RPU liq 20 pad at room temperature pickup 70-80% dry at 130C cure for 3 minutes at 150C g/l g/l g/l g/l g/l
Knitwear recipes
Arkofix NDF liq c g/l Catalyst NKS liq g/l Arkofix NDK liq g/l Ceralube SVN liq g/l Solusoft MW liq or Solusoft UP liq g/l 15 Ceraperm SAP liq g/l 30-40 Hostapal MRN liq c g/l 0.5 0.5 pad at room temperature pickup 70-80% dry at cure 170C; curing time 15 sec. Standard ko-Easy-Finish recommendation 20-45 8-12 25-50 30-45
textile
LT-Cure Finish
The comprehensive low risk finish for highest demands as an alternative to moist crosslinking with almost the same effects (no change of shade) For woven goods of 100 % Cotton. Three stage process Guide recipe for 100 % Co fabric (120g/m2) Stage 1 Resin finish 150-210 g/l Arkofix NDF/NEC Plus liq c* 28-34 g/l Catalyst LT1 liq 10-30 g/l Solusoft MW liq c 30-40 g/l Velustrol P40 liq 0.5 g/l Hostapal MRN liq c pad at room temperature pickup 60-70 % dry at 80C to residual humidity of 5-8%, then cure 3 min at 130C Stage 2 Open width washing : 0.5 g/l Imerol PC liq open width wash at 40C rinse dry Top finish 0.5 g/l acetic acid 60 % 30-40 g/l Solusoft MW liq c 30 g/l Ceralube PHD liq c 0-5 g/l Appretan MB extra 0.5 g/l Hostapal MRN liq c pad at room temperature, pickup 60-80 % dry at 130C sanforize if necessary Stage 1 Resin finish 150-200 g/l Arkofix NDL liq c 20-30 g/l Velustrol ASP liq 5 g/l Hydroperm HV liq 110 g/l Catalyst MC1 liq pad at room temperature pickup 70-80 % dry at 90-100C to 7-9 % residual humidity roll and batch at room temperature for 20-22 h Open width washing, drying 2 g/l soda ash neutralize at 60C rinse, neutralize cold with acetic acid rinse, dry Top finish 10-25 g/l Solusoft MW liq 15-20 g/l Solusoft UP liq 20 g/l Velustrol ASP liq 10-20 g/l Dicofix SW liq c (if necessary) 0.5 ml/l acetic acid 60 % 0.3 g/l Hostapal MRN liq c pad at room temperature, pickup 70-80 % dry at 120-140C sanforize, calander if necessary
Stage 2
Stage 3
Stage 3
Moisture - curing
Complex State of the Art finish with a technically demanding background For woven goods of 100% cotton Three stage process Guide recipe for 100% Co woven fabric
Solusoft MW liq + liq c Micro emulsionAminomodified silicone elastomer nonionic Solusoft UP liq + liq h.c Macro emulsion modified silicone elastomer nonionic Hydroperm RPU liq Hydrophilic multipurpose polyurethane, ideal for moisture management finish, additive for resin finish, nonionic
textile
Garment Finish
Enzymatic and Softening Treatment
Enzymatic treatment : Bactosol CA liq c Sirrix 2 UD Liquor ratio 50 - 70 min. at 60C rinse warm and cold 1% pH 4.5 10 : 1
Super-Soft Finish
Process : Garment - Dip
Recipe : Solusoft UP liq Solusoft MW liq c Hydroperm RPU liq 70 g/l 30 g/l 30 g/l 4.2 % owf 1.8 % owf 1.8 % owf
Dip about 10-20 minutes at about 30C Hydroextract to a wet pick up of 60% Tumble dry at 90-100C to a residual moisture of 8-9% Ironing and pressing of the desired shape Cure in a curing-oven, 4 minutes at 150C
Softening by Exhaust : Ceranine HCS liq or Leomin AFK liq Solusoft MSJ liq Ceralube OEW liq or Ceraperm JET liq or Solusoft HIS liq Liquor ratio 20 min at 30 - 40 C, pH 5 Hydroextract, Tumble dry
2 - 5% 2 - 5% 2.5 % 2.5 % 1-4% 1- 4% 10 : 1 Recipe : Solusoft TOW liq c 30 g/l Hydroperm RPU liq 30 g/l 1.2 % owf 1.8 % owf
Dip about 10-20 minutes at about 30C Hydroextract to a wet pick up of 60% Tumble dry at 90-100C to a residual moisture of 8-9% Ironing and pressing of the desired shape Cure in a curing-oven, 4 minutes at 150C
textile
3. Tumble drying
? ?? ? ?
5. Special curing oven (min temp. 150C)
?? ?
dye
dip finish with resin + softner followed by hydroextraction and tumble drying
*= Ideally tted with a pumping device to pump back spent nishing liquor into the stock chemical holding tank
cure
1. Impregnating the made up garments with a resin nishing formulation by dipping or by spray application 2. Hydroextraction (usually not necessary in case of spray application) 3. Tumble drying 4. Ironing 5. Pressing 6. Curing in a special curing oven
followed by sanforising or compacting treatment (important to avoid shrinkage or puckering during further processes of the textile)
Notice: If a fluorocarbon finish (Water-/Oil repellent, Soil Release) is applied after the garment making we recommend the following recipe for the prefinish:
textile
Dip for about 20 minutes at 30C Hydroextract to a wet pick up of 60% Tumble dry at 90 - 100C to a residual moisture of 10-12% Ironing and pressing of the desired shape Curing in a curing-oven, 6-8 minutes at 150C
Calculation in g/l
Example : Arkofix NDF liq c = 5 % owf
PA = chemical amount which should be onto the fabric LA = liquor pick up after nishing and centrifuging Hydroextract to a wet pick up of 60 %
g/l = 1000 x PA = 1000 x 5 = 83 LA 60% g/l = 83
q&a
1. Do you think the Textile industry today is facing a Global Recession? Yes, Textile Industry is facing today a Global Recession due to the economic conditions ofAmerica and Europe. 2. How do you assess the threat from China? I dont consider China as a threat any more due to lack of quality in their product and changed government policies. 3. What innovations do you plan with reference to branding, retailing new products and new nishes? Regarding Branding we are already having our established brands viz. Monte Carlo, Cotton County, French Republic and Tazo and our Retail Business is already in place. We are trying to strenghten our Brands and Retails Business by creating Brand Loyalty through quality at reasonable price. Regarding new products we are focusing more on Elasten Fibre and increasing our capacity of Elasten Fibre yarn as use of Elasten Fibre is increasing. We are trying to increase our presence in workwear segment. Dobby Design is the strength of Nahar Group. We are trying to exploit our strength. Regarding new nishes we are doing different type of performance nishes too for brands. 4. How do you envisage the growth of brands and its impact on textile business? It will improve the quality standard.
5. What are your plans to expand your International Textiles and Retail business? In Nahar we are doing lot of work for Direct Export and Export through RMG sector. Keeping this segment in view we expanded in 2006. Now we are waiting for International Textile Market to Improve. At right time we will think about expansion. 6. How do you see the role of dyes and chemical manufacturing companies (Clariant) in future to help the textile industry? In the present scenario of Textile Market the role of Dyes Chemical Manufacturing Companies like Clariant has become very crucial and cirtical. On the one hand the performance requirement is being more stringent and on the other hand price of the nished fabric is not increasing. In manufacturing cost dyes and chemicals is the second largest constituent i.e. 13-15% of the total manufacturing cost. So in this context all the dyes and chemicals manufacturers will have to be very innovative, quality conscious, cost competitive and service oriented to help the Textile Industry as well as for themselves. 7. Your message to textile industry Textile is one of the basic needs of human being and India is having a rich heritage in Textile. Sooner or later we would come out of the present recession. We would have to punch in a little creativity along with cost effectiveness to be the world leader.
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paper
Cartacol SA liquid
Surface sizing emulsion polymer - mainly Styrene/ Acrylate type, 25 % AC Nano-polymer particles Excellent electrolyte, shear and thermal stability Used on uncoated paper, in size-press colors together with starch and OBA Designed for optimizing the inkjet printability of multipurpose printing paper (ofce paper), with positive effects on the toner adhesion Matt coated paper
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paper
NETTETE
Bleeding (2 colour mixing)
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paper
Digital printing
Toner adhesion and friction coefficient
Results : Cobb (gH2O/m ): Uncured (AKD sizing) = 24 25g/m; Cured (5 minutes at 130C) = 21 1g/m -same results with both SSA Ink-jet printability (HP printer, standard ink-jet printing form): excellent Good toner adhesion Paper Grade : Offset paper 70 80g/m, 150m/min Pulp: Straw 30 50 / bleached ber 50 70% Wet end conditions : AKD internal sizing 15kg/T Surface treatment Tapioca or corn oxidized starch 6 10%, pH 7.5 CARTACOL SA 3-6kg/T Temperature 35C Coat weight 2.5g/m, Pond size press Advantages Same Dry surface strength (using IGT) than competitor speed = 2,50 / 2,95m/s Top/ Bottom side Same Cobb 60s = 32/33g/m
B.
0.8 0.7 0.6 0.5 0.4 0.3 0.2
Cartacol SA
Cartacol 6411
Office paper
Started with the same dosage as competition but later on decreased to 20% less Paper 80g/m AKD in wet-end Size press formulation : 7% conc starch + SSA Competitor added constantly per dosing pump 2.5 kg as is/ T final Cobb values of 22gH2O/m Cartacol 6411 addition was reduced to 2.0 ks as is/ T final paper No changes regarding Cobb and inkjet printability was detected www.paper.clariant.com
This information is based on our present state of knowledge and is intended to provide general notes on our products and their uses. It should not therefore be construed as guaranteeing specific properties of the products described or their suitability for a particular application. Any existing industrial property rights must be observed. The quality of our products is guaranteed under our General Conditions of Sale. Trademark of Clariant registered in numerous countries. 2008 Clariant International Ltd.
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Bactosol BP liq. c
A specific cellulase enzyme for Biowash treatments.
Improves signicantly soft feel of the garment. Removes fuzziness on surface of the fabric during production Less colour fading after multiple laundering Rapid Kinetic behavior reduces the treatment time of the biowash. Therefore energy cosumption cost are saved and productivity increases. Specic action on surface of the ber, low impact on ber strength compared to traditional cellulases.
scarlet and Blood Red shades. Suitable for exhaust and continuous application process. Good compatibility within Drimaren HF/CL range. Has Good Light fastness in Medium and Dark shades. Good Wet Light and Wet alkali light (M&S C9A) fastness. High xation and Good washing-off properties. Good Acid and Alkaline perspiration fastness.
Afilan GD liq.
Lubricant with antistatic properties for fiber manufacturing and fiber processing.
Alan GD Liq. has got excellent lubricating and wetting properties ,improves bre/bre cohesion and reduces bre /metal friction. Owing to the high degree of dynamic smoothness and good bre- to- bre cohesion Alan GD liq. is suitable as lubricant for bre manufacture and bre processing in the eld of PAN as well as PET and all other bre catagories. Can be applied from aqueous solutions either alone or in combination with other nonionic or anionic bre nishes in the bre manufacturing and textile mills,mainly as spinning lubricant.
Drimaren PS
After several years of having either locally sourced for non competitive products we are happy to offer you now a new global range of own products for reactive printing.
To clearly separate them from former products we call them DRIMAREN PS dyes. These are 12 monochloro triazine dyes. The main targets behind those developments have been: granulated form to be superior to most of competitors dusting powders
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new arrivals
economical products high solubility to enable working even without predissolving low salt content for less negative inuence on synthetic thickener and better washing- off properties (less staining).
Drimagen AB liq.
A liquid alkali system for Reactive dyeing
Controls the xation of reactive dyes in an uniform way. Permits improvement of dyeing reproducibility.
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new arrivals
Compared to conventional alkalies like soda-ash,Drimagen AB has the following advantages 1. Easy handling and dissolution. 2. Better security and reproducibility of dyeings. Exceptional pH stability in use.
Highly concentrated. Dosage required is 25% lower than most of the available leveling agents. No effect on sensitive dyes and shades especially green, turquoise. Product can also be used effectively for Stripping and Shade Correction. Also effective for dyeing of PES in blends. APEO / NPEO free. OkeoTex compliance. Minimal wool ber damage dyeing in the iso-electric region pH 4.5. Very high fastness on wool to in house processing. Metal Free.
Lyogen DP c
Excellent leveling agent for Polyester Dyeing due to its inbuilt properties of Leveling, Migration and Dispersion with ability to cover barriness in uneven texturised PES. Product Performance
Leveling properties based on dual action, migration and retardation. Good dispersion properties. Non foaming.
Trefix SW pa
The new sizing softener for Cotton, P/C, P/V and 100% Polyester and viscose spun yarn. Product Performance
Easy splitting of yarn in split zone and imparts pliability to yarn to overcome abrasion in weaving. Good lubrication property lowers yarn friction on loom. Reduces shedding during weaving by reducing Fibre to Fibre and Fibre to Metal friction. Compatible with all sizing ingredients. Can be added in cooker.
colour chronicle 2 | 2009
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inside views
nder the motto Always one shoe step ahead - Clariants Leather Business has successfully continued to advance its international shoe approach by holding three global development workshops in the main shoe centres of Asia and Americas. In line with the launch of its Global Shoe Concept, the company continues to address the shoe upper market with a strong focus on trend, innovation, performance and ecology. The objective of these local workshops was to generate innovative and fashionable ideas to cater for customers needs in the respective regions and countries. Workshop in Asia and Americas: The workshops took place in Chennai/India, Guangzhou/China and Novo Hamburgo/Brazil. Local teams with the support by the project leader Ralph Schneider from Germany as well as international technicians responsible for the respective countries spent one week together recently to exchange experiences, strengthen teambuilding and establish the strategy to offer our customers the most updated and complete solution and application. The leathers made show a wide variety of shoe uppers from burnishable goat to high performance bovine box and oily types. Specically, the shoe segment will be the focus for our future growth. The results of our workshops clearly demonstrate our leading position in this area of innovative leather chemicals, based on our commitment to provide real solutions for our special customer requirements. Clariant provides application know-how, based on an updated product portfolio for all segments of our industry, states Hubert Kollmar, Head of Leather Business for Latin America.
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inside views
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Tru-Spec brand Tactical Response Combat Shirt featuring Cordura Baselayer fabric. The Tactical Response Combat Shirt is the latest addition to the Tru-Spec brands Tactical Response Uniform (TRU) line for tactical operations. We are excited to work with the TruSpec brand product development team on this new combat shirt for military, tactical, and law enforcement end-users, said Cindy McNaull, Global Cordura brand Manager. In addition to servicing todays war ghters, this collaboration will expand the use of Cordura Baselayer fabric beyond military applications and will affordably equip hometown heroes with the latest proctective garment technology. The comfortable, breathable Cordura Baselayer fabric will be a valuable asset to those wearing the new Tactical Response Combat Shirt. Designed to be worn under protective vests, the Tactical Response Combat Shirt is a next-to-skin garment constructed with No Melt/No Drip Cordura Baselayer fabric, the secret to the shirts protective qualities. The 60/40 cotton-nylon bre blends reduces these verity of burn injuries by chaming instead of melting when exposed to heat. Known for its durability and abrasionresistant characteristics, Cordura Baselayer fabric provides a comfortable, breathable, lightweight solution with exceptional moisture management properties. Cordura Baselayer fabric was the obvious choice for us during the TRU combat shirt design process,said Atlancos Vice President of Marketing. Darrell Jacks. The fabrics proven performance military protective gear further motivated our support of the brands technology. By ustilising Cordura Baselayer fabric in the TRU Combat Shirt, the Tru-Spec brand tear maintains its commitment to making affordable cutting-edge textile technologies available to individual operators, as well as teams and units. Atlancos Tru-Spec brand launched its dynamic, full featured Tactical
Response Uniform in 2006 to address the special needs of tactical ofcers. Since the uniforms introduction, the TRU line has become leading choice of tactical teams everywhere. I addition to exceptional comfort and enhanced safet the Tactical Response Combat Shirt features a modturtleneck designed for style and comfort, gussete sleeves for easy movement, convenient zippere sleeve storage. The Tru-Spec brand Combat shirts fully function sleeves, based on the original TRU design, are made from Cordura NYCO fabric. Available in two high performance fabric options, the Tactical Response Combat Shirt features MultiCam sleeves with a sar colour body and a separate army digital version with a foliage colour body that incorporates 50/50 nylon cotton No Melt, No Drip ripstop sleeves in the AC pattern. The solid colour options _ Black, Olive Dra and Khaki _ are available in 65/35 polyestercotton rip-stop sleeves but do not provide thermal protection qualities.
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the market size for a consecutive year, he said. India that $21 billion exports of textile and clothing in 2007-08 had a domestic market size of $29-30 billion during the period. In the current scal however, there has been a degrowth in the US and the EU markets for Indian exporters and a simultaneous stagnation in the domestic market. Contrary to our expections of 15% growth in exports, our exports are feared to fall by 3% in 2008-09 owing to a drastic fall in demand from the US and the EU markets. Even in the domestic market, against the growth of 10%, we expect to see a mere 2-3% growth in the current scal owing to lack of consumer condence in the current economic crisis, added Prashant Agarwal of Technopak. Confederation of Indian Textile Industrys Secretary General DK Nair indicated that considering these are tough times for the textile sector, it should consider it fortunate to have managed a at growth. It is fortunate that we have been able to hold on to our market size without seeing any signicant dip in these times, he said.
Retail. The rationale is in fact the Tier 2, 3 and 4 cities, the amount of money that is available there and the amount of consumer growth happening there, there is a big shift happening for the consumer, especially in garments, Nitin Kasliwal, managing director of S Kumars, said. S. Kumars, known for premium brands such as Reid and Taylor and Belmonte, is launching a mass brand for the Tier 3 and 4 cities at very reasonable rate, said Kasliwal. Rival Arvind, which already has about 30 per cent of its revenue coming from Tier 2-3 cities, plants to locate a signicant share of 30 outlets to be added this year in Tier 3 cities, said J Suresh, chief executive, brand and retail. Branded apparels and home furnishing maker Alok, owner of the H&A brand, is planning to triple it store count by next March, with a strong focus on the Tier 2 and 3 cities.
community that assists our ongoing effort to ensure that our ongoing efforts to ensure that our products are manufactured in a socially responsible way. Our efforts in this important area will continue.
Feedback ? Send your suggestions/entries to gauri.nadkarni@clariant.com Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited www.clariant.in
Editor: Printed and Published by Prabhat Trivedi, on behalf of Clariant Chemicals (India) Limited Design by Point-n-Pixel Printed by Multiple Images
Editorial Co-ordinator: Gauri Nadkarni Consulting Editor: Philips Abraham Editorial Board: Sanjay Sathe, Pinakin Munshi, Rajinikanth Prasad
colour chronicle 2 | 2009
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