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Levi Strauss Europe, Middle East and North Africa Dirk Van Kemseke GfK Jaarcongres Fashion 2009
Levi Strauss Europe, Middle East and North Africa
Dirk Van Kemseke
GfK Jaarcongres Fashion 2009 – April 1 2009
Agenda • Levi Strauss EMEA • GfK for the Levi’s® & Dockers® brand • Honesty,
Agenda
• Levi Strauss EMEA
• GfK for the Levi’s® & Dockers® brand
• Honesty, or the modern interpretation of Authenticity…
• Cool Green is the New Black
About Levi Strauss & Co • Privately owned company founded in 1853 • Designs, manufactures
About Levi Strauss & Co
• Privately owned company founded in 1853
• Designs, manufactures and markets jeans and casual wear under three
brands –Levi’s®, Dockers®, and Levi Strauss Signature®
• 4.5 billion pairs of Levi’s® jeans have been sold in over 110 countries
• 11,550 Employees Worldwide
• 3 Divisions:
– Americas (LSA)
– Europe (LSEMA)
– Asia Pacific and Southern Africa (APD)
• Sales in over 110 countries and 55,000 retail outlets
• Global net revenues fiscal year 2007: $ 4.4 billion
• Europe: Divisional headquarters in Brussels
• Europe: 650 Levi’s® stores (The Netehrlands: 15 Levi’s®, 9 Dockers® )
The youth of the mid nineties and today may not remember Levi’s® ‘good old days’…

The youth of the mid nineties and today may not remember Levi’s® ‘good old days’…

Lost Generation 1985-1989 1990-1994 1995-1999 2000-2004 2005+ Levi’s® TV Ads Market Age 17 17 17
Lost Generation
1985-1989
1990-1994
1995-1999
2000-2004
2005+
Levi’s®
TV Ads
Market
Age
17
17
17
17
17
Then
Age
37
32
27
22
18
Now
NeedNeed toto continuallycontinually recruitrecruit youthyouth
[I:\401103\40110370\Pres\Equity Overview S05.ppt 4 ]
Levi’s® gradually puts more focus on Retail Marketing & Digital Marketing [I:\401103\40110370\Pres\Equity Overview

Levi’s® gradually puts more focus on Retail Marketing & Digital Marketing

LeviLeviss®® todaytoday

Levi Levi ’ ’ s s ® ® today today … … VIDEO BOMB [I:\401103\40110370\Pres\Equity Overview
Levi Levi ’ ’ s s ® ® today today … … VIDEO BOMB [I:\401103\40110370\Pres\Equity Overview

VIDEO BOMB

Retail is our Future
Retail is our Future
Retail is our Future – Levi’s® Superpremium
Retail is our Future – Levi’s® Superpremium
FAIRPLAY IN FASHION. HONEST to YOURSELF HONEST TO SOCIETY The modern interpretation of AUTENTICITY CORPORATE
FAIRPLAY IN FASHION.
HONEST to YOURSELF
HONEST TO SOCIETY
The modern interpretation of
AUTENTICITY
CORPORATE CITIZENSHIP
SUSTAINABILITY
•our Brand Values Proposition
•Our Marketing Campaign
‘Authenticity’, nowadays aka as ‘Honesty’… Dirk Van Kemseke Levi Strauss Europe, Middle East & North
‘Authenticity’,
nowadays aka as ‘Honesty’…
Dirk Van Kemseke
Levi Strauss Europe, Middle East & North Africa
AUTHENTICITY • How can an apparel brand turn Authenticity into a USP ? • What
AUTHENTICITY
• How can an apparel brand turn Authenticity into a USP ?
• What definition of Authenticity is the most engaging
amongst youth ?
• What modern interpretations of Authenticity (attitudinal)
are most relevant and can trigger brand consideration ?
Esthetic Authenticity (old school) vs Attitudional authenticity (modern interpretation) EMOTIONAL/ATTITUDIONAL
Esthetic Authenticity (old school) vs Attitudional
authenticity (modern interpretation)
EMOTIONAL/ATTITUDIONAL authenticity
ESTHETIC authenticity
• Integrity
• the oldest (“Levi's® is the youngest oldest brand in the
world”)
• Honesty/approachable: it does not pretend to be what it’s
not
• the original
• Straightforward
• the first and genuine
• always rooted in truth
• ahead of times
• pioneering
• responsible, accountable business practices (corporate
citizenship)
• fresh ans unusual, novel (at the time)
• Remained true to its roots
• the authority
• serving to define or outline
• Revealing your true self (and not worrying about what
other people think)
• the classic
• Off kilter (unconventional)
• iconic
• Being true to yourself
• who invented
• attitude, not clothes
• craftsmanship
• rejection of status through badging
• good quality
• having substance and depth
• old-school 100% American
• signature iconography (leather patch, back pocket arcuate
(‘eagle’) stitching, the red tab)
• the new cultural currency (opposite to material
possessions
• freedom of thinking
• heritage / owning a certain look
• challenging the status quo
• different to other clothing brands
• unpretentious
• naturalness
• rebellious
• unconventional (off kilter)
• Transgression from the established
• freedom of fashion, not tyranny of fashion
• pushing the limits
• fashion with substance
• fearless
• provocative
• courage
• having a point of view

Regarding honesty

“People increasingly see the world in terms of real & fake and want to buy something real from someone genuine, not a fake from some phony

Source: ‘AUTHENTICITY: WHAT CONSUMERS REALLY WANT’ ( James H. Gilmore/B. Joseph Pine II)

Levi’s® is… …a brand that does not pretend to be what it is not (honest
Levi’s® is…
…a brand that does not pretend to be what it is not (honest to itself)
…a brand that is transgressor and a rebel because it believes that
everybody has freedom to express their own individuality / creativity
without being judged by the others
…a brand which focuses on an attitude, more than just on the clothes
…a brand that rejects status and badging (substance and depth),
…a brand of which wearers say that doing your own thing (and not
worrying about what other people think) is really important (true to
oneself)
…a brand that doesn’t take itself too serious
What about competition ? Reply, G-Star and Diesel are fashion transgressors and fashion rebellious too.

What about competition ?

Reply, G-Star and Diesel are fashion transgressors and fashion rebellious too. However, Their values are more superficial and their main concern is to look cool in front of others without having a true personality. Social success is very important to them and also what the others will think about them.

having a true personality. Social success is very important to them and also what the others
having a true personality. Social success is very important to them and also what the others

The ‘Live Unbuttoned’ personal truth

The ‘Live Unbuttoned’ personal truth This is the confidence and courage to be yourself and to

This is the confidence and courage to be yourself and to express yourself privately and publicly.

THE CAMPAIGN IDEA: LIVE UNBUTTONED …What it really means! To live unbuttoned is to be
THE CAMPAIGN IDEA: LIVE UNBUTTONED …What it
really means!
To live unbuttoned is to be completely yourself.
To live unbuttoned is to be uninhibited, unrestrained,
unembarrassed.
It’s about throwing off the restraints of convention and doing
what comes naturally.
Following your heart. Telling people what you really think.
Opening up and letting it all out.
It’s about freedom.
DEMONSTRATE REVELATION THROUGH LOCAL HEROES INVITE THE AUDIENCE TO DO THE SAME LEVERAGE SOCIAL CONNECTIONS
DEMONSTRATE REVELATION THROUGH LOCAL HEROES
INVITE THE AUDIENCE TO DO THE SAME
LEVERAGE SOCIAL CONNECTIONS TO DRIVE HONESTY
The interview launches. The hero answers to 5 questions. He reveals himself.
Live Unbuttoned – Audiovisual Campaign Movie…
Live Unbuttoned – Audiovisual Campaign
Movie…
Cool Green is the New Black Dirk Van Kemseke Levi Strauss Europe, Middle East &
Cool Green is the New Black
Dirk Van Kemseke
Levi Strauss Europe, Middle East & North Africa

“Our sustainability vision is big, broad and aspirational and it is tightly linked to our business objectives (best ROI, innovation) and brand positioning, being the Authentic brand”

“ We need to leverage brand “honesty” – an emerging platform for brand engagement”

John Anderson, CEO Levi Strauss & Co

HONEST BRANDS How should they be? When talking about honest brands we again detect a
HONEST BRANDS How should they be? When talking about honest brands we again detect a

HONEST BRANDS How should they be?

HONEST BRANDS How should they be? When talking about honest brands we again detect a broad

When talking about honest brands we again detect a broad spectrumHONEST BRANDS How should they be? Upfront HONEST BRANDS ARE BRANDS THAT DO NOT LIE However,

Upfront HONEST BRANDS ARE BRANDS THAT DO NOT LIE HONEST BRANDS ARE BRANDS THAT DO NOT LIE

However, honesty is more than thatspectrum Upfront HONEST BRANDS ARE BRANDS THAT DO NOT LIE In the older age groups honesty

In the older age groups honesty is also closely linked to CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY

To them honesty is alsois also closely linked to CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY No child labor No animal tests Being ecologically

No child laborto CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY To them honesty is also No animal tests Being ecologically responsible Being

No animal testsSOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY To them honesty is also No child labor Being ecologically responsible Being involved in

Being ecologically responsibleTo them honesty is also No child labor No animal tests Being involved in charity Admitting

Being involved in charitychild labor No animal tests Being ecologically responsible Admitting mistakes and talking about them “Ik baseer

Admitting mistakes and talking about themBeing ecologically responsible Being involved in charity “Ik baseer me op het feit dat er iets

“Ik baseer me op het feit dat er iets voor een goed doel wordt gedaan”

Being honest as a brand is perceived as a hard job since you need to
Being honest as a brand is perceived as a hard job since you need to
be consistent in everything you do
© InSites Consulting
© InSites Consulting
to be consistent in everything you do © InSites Consulting RESULTS - InSites Consulting ForwaR&D Lab

RESULTS - InSites Consulting ForwaR&D Lab Project - Authenticity

22

In 1985 the Levi Strauss Foundation became the first U.S. corporate foundation to address the

In 1985 the Levi Strauss Foundation became the first U.S. corporate foundation to address the HIV/AIDS epidemic, and has since contributed more than $37 million to HIV/AIDS services organizations in more than 40 countries

million to HIV/AIDS services organizations in more than 40 countries [I:\401103\40110370\Pres\Equity Overview S05.ppt 23 ]

What did we do already ? Consumer Feedback on eco intiatives…

did we do already ? Consumer Feedback on eco intiatives… • Noticed and talked about across
did we do already ? Consumer Feedback on eco intiatives… • Noticed and talked about across
did we do already ? Consumer Feedback on eco intiatives… • Noticed and talked about across
did we do already ? Consumer Feedback on eco intiatives… • Noticed and talked about across

Noticed and talked about across a range of blogs (fashion, trend/design, magazines)…but either very factual or not commented upon very positively

WHY?

It is seen as 'normal' for Levi's®: a mega-brand's obligation and responsibility ?

Done a step too late vs. competitors ?

Too basic an initiative: standard organic product without a strong style cues or a motivating story

Done too seriously/earnestly, not adapting the approach to the world of fashion ?

Levi's® current eco strategy does not appear to have the desired cut through or positive halo affect to date. Worth revisiting the strategy to build a more coherent and engaging programme across the mix

positive halo affect to date. Worth revisiting the strategy to build a more coherent and engaging

Did you know 80% of the energy needed to wash your clothes is used while heating the water ?

Did you know 80% of the energy needed to wash your clothes is used while heating
The Münster eco-store A thirty-five percent (35%) lower energy consumption was achieved compared with a
The Münster eco-store
A thirty-five percent (35%) lower energy consumption was achieved
compared with a regular Levi’s® store.
• Lighting: The biggest retail innovation for us comes from the lighting design .
- Motion sensors in the changing rooms dim the lights when no one is present thereby saving energy.
- Motion sensors in the store dim the ambient lighting in areas where no one is present
• Entrance door: Two (2) pairs of automatic sliding double doors were installed as a solution to leaving
the doors open to attract consumers. It replaces an energy intensive and inefficient air curtain generally
used to keep the temperature of the interior of the store separate from the exterior.
• Flooring in Changing Rooms Area: Cork flooring is used, which is a natural material that does not
require the destruction of trees. The cork is lacquered with water-based lacquer.
• Windows in non-reflective double glass: Non-reflective glass allows a higher percentage of natural
light to enter the store, thereby allowing the use of spots of a lower wattage in the windows. Double-
glazing is effective for saving energy.
• Façade: No aluminum was used in the store. The façade is in wood, painted in black.
• Painting / Hangers / Consumer carrier Bag
When & How to increase the impact ? “Cool Green is the New Black” •

When & How to increase the impact ? “Cool Green is the New Black”

to increase the impact ? “Cool Green is the New Black” • Responsibility & sustainability has

Responsibility & sustainability has reached mass consciousness, but there is still a disconnect between corporate efforts a widespread shift in consumer behaviour

Historically because the trade-offs for consuming greenproducts (price, style, taste, convenience etc.) are generally too big

Deeper Luxury: the Opportunity to be Aspirational

This will change as consumers start to feel the impact of ignorance, ambivalence and denial. Eg. water scarcity in Spain & France, tornadoes, bug infestations, extreme weather variances caused by global warming

A 2008 MLC study states that 84% have changed their consumption behaviour at least a little bit, 92% claim green issues influences their day to day purchase decisions, but only 16% actively seek out environmentally friendly goods

As more & more businesses strive to exploit green opportunities in their categories, consumer cynicism is high

Over 70% believe companies leverage green positioning either to improve public opinions (36%) or simply to sell more (35%)

– High degrees of scepticism and low levels of trust imply that retailers' strategies lack sincerity and credibility, which needs to be overcome by greater consistency, thoroughness and rigour in devising and applying strategies for change

needs to be overcome by greater consistency, thoroughness and rigour in devising and applying strategies for

The luxury brand power to influence consumers

The Opportunity to be aspirational Luxury brands have the power to influence consumer aspiration and behaviour by editing

consumer choices through product design, distribution and marketing

opportunity and the responsibility to promote sustainable consumption.

The New Luxury Consumer Many luxury consumers are part of an affluent, global élite that is increasingly well educated and concerned about social and environmental issues. These consumers use luxury products as a symbol of success. The definition of success – and the way it is perceived by others – is changing.

The Democratisation of luxury Luxury brands have become more accessible, making it harder to appeal to consumers on the grounds of exclusivity. Instead, their added value for consumers could be derived from superior environmental and social performance, expressed through “deeper” brand values and more sustainable business practices.

They have both the

performance, expressed through “deeper” brand values and more sustainable business practices. They have both the

Our Vision

We will build sustainability into everything we do, so that our profitable growth helps restore the environment.

We now have a global framework

Each region will include sustainability in their SBP planning for FY ‘09-’11.

We will reduce the amount of packaging on every garment which will save money and reduce waste

We will reduce air travel, which will lessen our carbon footprint (and do videoconferencing…)

We will change all care labels to read “wash in cold” instead of warm water, which will help consumers reduce the energy and climate impacts associated with the use and care of our products.

Green Week

Dedicated Sustainability intranet site

impacts associated with the use and care of our products. • Green Week • Dedicated Sustainability
impacts associated with the use and care of our products. • Green Week • Dedicated Sustainability

“Ik wil dat mijn klanten onze T-shirts pas kopen als hun oude helemaal versleten zijn” (Gorik Dirix, äleluja )

“Ik wil dat mijn klanten onze T-shirts pas kopen als hun oude helemaal versleten zijn” (Gorik
pas kopen als hun oude helemaal versleten zijn” (Gorik Dirix, äleluja ) The The LS&CO. LS&CO.
Levi Strauss Europe, Middle East and North Africa Dirk Van Kemseke GfK Jaarcongres Fashion 2008
Levi Strauss Europe, Middle East and North Africa
Dirk Van Kemseke
GfK Jaarcongres Fashion 2008 - 26 november 2008