Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

PRISTINA
Spring - Summer 2011

Gazimestan
Battlefield memorials

Unexpected
nightlife
Pristina’s cafés and
bars

N°4 - €4
pristina.inyourpocket.com
Homeowners Association

Homeowners Association is
offering houses for rent.

If you feel like renting in the one

and only organized community
in Pristina, please call

044 12 00 12
The International Village,
located just 5 minutes drive
from downtown Prishtina is an
ideal location for your home.
Tucked away on this beautiful
property are three main types
of houses that offer privacy
without sacrificing a vibrant
community with charm around
every corner. Along with it we
offer a swimming pool, tennis
and basketball court, gym and
running track.

If you enjoy high quality of

life in a private and healthy
environment and want
to provide the best living
conditions for your family we
would be proud to welcome you
as a member of our community.
 CONTENTS 5

Introducing
Contents the new
Arriving 8
In Your Pocket
Basics
iPhone Appp...
9
Visas, streets, money and electricity

Culture & Events 10

Cinemas, theatres, concerts

Where to stay 12
From business hotels to backpacker beds

Restaurants 17
Greasy burek to gourmet dining

Cafés & Nightlife 24

Bars, pubs and clubs

What to see 29
Mosques, museums and a map

Gazimestan 34
Memorials to the Battle of Kosovo

Getting around 35
Planes, taxis and trains

Language 36
Speak shqip

Mail & Phones 38

Shopping 39

Directory 41

Maps & Index

Country map 47
City map 48-49
Index & Street register 50

Pristina, Prizren and soon Download Europe’s best

also Peja In Your Pocket city guides from itunes
In print and online at
kosovo.inyourpocket.com

pristina.inyourpocket.com Spring - Summer 2011

6 FOREWORD
Three years after declaring independence,
Kosovo is experiencing how hard it can be to go
it alone. Youth unemployment is still sky-high due
to a faltering economy, it remains one of a few
countries in the region subject to strict visa rules,
and many of its politicians are as unreliable as
can be expected in the Balkans. Yet for travellers
Kosovo is one of the more interesting, scenic and
affordable destinations in the region. What it lacks
in coastline scenery it makes up for in the mountain
and cultural heritage departments, and every visitor
is pleasantly surprised at Pristina’s friendly café,
food and nightlife scene. So it’s no surprise that
Kosovo made it into the “41 places to go in 2011”
list in the New York Times, where its “mountains,
medieval Slavic and Ottoman architecture and
unexpected night life” were highly recommended.
In this issue of Pristina In Your Pocket we highlight
the two impressive war monuments at Gazimestan,
just north of town, and have reams of new hotel,
café, restaurant and bar reviews. Those of you
toting iPhones will be happy to hear that we’ll
launch a Pristina iPhone app in the coming months
containing the full content of the guide, keep an eye
on our website www.pristina.inyourpocket.com for
more details. As always, comments about the guide
and the venues we review are welcome via the
website or pristina@inyourpocket.com.
Cover story
Located in what remains of Pristina’s
old city centre, the grand Austrian-era
Kosovo Museum building houses the
country’s most important archaeo-
logical artefact, the Hynesha në Fron
(‘Goddess on a throne’) statue. The
museum is well worth a visit, see page
29 for more details.
About this guide
The Pristina In Your Pocket city guide is the only dedi-
cated English-language guidebook to Kosovo’s capital,
and is part of a Europe-wide series of acclaimed city
guides. In Your Pocket guides are written for foreign
travellers and residents, to provide honest, critical infor-
mation that makes visiting the city easier for newcomers.
As a private and commercial initiative, Pristina In Your
Pocket has been written and researched by a team of
local and foreign travel guide experts. The opinions in the
guide are those of the writers, and are not in any way
meant to glorify or denigrate the city, merely to point
out the merits and shortcomings that we think foreign
travellers should know about. Although we realise the
local name for the city is spelled Prishtina, in this guide
we use the official English spelling for the city name,
Pristina, as described in article 13 of the Constitution of
Kosovo. Every guidebook has its faults, so we appreciate
any information that would lead to improving the next
issue. Emails can be sent to pristina@inyourpocket.com.
Lidhur me këtë udhëzues
Udhëzuesi i qytetit Pristina In Your Pocket (‘Prishtina në
xhepin tuaj’) është udhëzuesi i vetëm në gjuhën angleze që i
dedikohet kryeqytetit të Kosovës, dhe është pjesë e një sërë
udhëzuesve të njohur të qyteteve në mbarë Evropën. Udhë-
zuesit in your pocket janë dizajnuar për udhëtarët e huaj dhe
banorët, por thjeshtë që të sigurojnë informata të sinqerta kri-
tike që e bëjnë vizitën në qytet më të lehtë për të sapoardhurit.
Si një iniciative private komerciale, Pristina In Your Pocket
është shkruar dhe hulumtuar nga një ekip i ekspertëve vendor
dhe të huaj të udhëzuesve të udhëtimit. Mendimet në udhë-
zues vijnë nga shkrimtarët, dhe në asnjë mënyrë nuk kanë për
qëllim që të lavdërojnë apo denigrojnë qytetin, por thjeshtë
që të tregojnë meritat dhe mangësitë të cilat ne mendojmë
se udhëtarët e huaj duhet t’i dinë. Ndonëse e kemi vërejtur
që emri i qytetit është shkruar Prishtina, në këtë udhëzues
ne kemi përdorur anglishten zyrtare për emrin e qytetit
Pristina, siç është paraparë në nenin 13 të Kushtetutës së
Kosovës. Çdo udhëzues i ka të metat e veta, prandaj ne do
të çmonim çdo informatë që do të çonte në përmirësimin
e botimit të ardhshëm. E-mailet mund të dërgohen në
pristina@inyourpocket.com.

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Pristina In Your Pocket
© Albania Experience Sh.P.K
c/o Tirana In Your Pocket
Rr. Elbasanit, Nd.10, H.5,
1010 Tirana, Albania
Tel: +355 4 225 56 55
Fax: +355 4 227 19 60
pristina@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1819-2890
Printing Evropa 92, Kocani
Published 10,000 copies,
twice a year
Editorial management
Rentapocket.com: Jeroen van Marle, Sco
Research Kaltrina Hoxha, Rrita Pula
Layout & Design Tomáš Haman
Photos, cover Jeroen van Marle
Photo contributors Ivan Adams
(iabrams3985@gmail.com),
Greta Howard (www.grete-david.co.uk)
Maps Trimaks Kartografia, Skopje
Sales & Distribution
Manager Vullnet Malazogu
vullnet.malazogu@inyourpocket.com,
tel. +377 45 59 50 01
Publishers Gazmend Haxhia,
Jeroen van Marle, Sco
Text and photos copyright Pristina In
Your Pocket 2006-2011. Maps copyright
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name In Your
Pocket is used under license from UAB
In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,
Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
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Pristina In Your Pocket pristina.inyourpocket.com

8 ARRIVING
By plane Public holidays
Pristina’s modern international airport (PRN, www.airport-
pristina.com) is 15km west of the city centre. The arrivals The days when even the people who have jobs stop
hall is separate from the other buildings and not a happy working.
place, but the departures building has ATMs and other 1-2 Jan New Year
services (see Transport). A taxi ride to the centre will cost 7 Jan 2012 Orthodox Christmas
about €25 and takes about 20 minutes. The airport bus 17 Feb Independence Day
from right outside the arrivals terminal to the Grand Hotel in 28 March 2011 Catholic and Orthodox Easter
the city centre theoretically departs daily at 09:00, 11:00, 9 Apr Constitution Day
13:00, 15:00, 17:00 and 18:00; a ticket costs €3 and can 1 May Labour Day
be purchased on the bus. 9 May Europe Day
29 Aug 2011 Eid Al-Fitr (Ramadan)
5 Nov 2011 Eid Al-Adha
By train 28 Nov National flag day
Trains from Skopje and within Kosovo all pass through Fushë 25 Dec Catholic Christmas
Kosovë train station, which is Kosovo’s main railway hub,
seven kilometres west of central Pristina. Hop onto a N°1
kombi minibus outside, which goes to the eastern end of Street smarts
Bul. Bill Clinton every 5-10 minutes for €0.40. Using a taxi will
cost around €9. Some trains, including the one from Skopje, Street Rruga Highway Autostrada
continue to Pristina train station, which is a short walk to Square Sheshi Bridge Ura
the centre along Rruga Garibaldi. Don’t count on any taxis Boulevard Bulevardi
awaiting arrivals here.

By bus Europe In Your Pocket

Penny-pinchers who choose to get to Pristina by bus will be
justly rewarded with a dilapidated bus station with nothing Northern
in the way of facilities beyond a couple of grotty cafés and Estonia
Ireland
kiosks. There’s not even a city bus linking it to the city centre, Russia
two kilometres away. Taxis are parked outside the main exit Ireland Latvia
and a ride into the centre will cost less than €2. Alternatively, Lithuania
it’s a 20-30 minute walk: go directly north until you get to Bul.
Bill Clinton and take a right.
Belarus
Netherlands
By car Poland
Driving around Kosovo in daylight is fairly easy and straight- Germany Ukraine
forward, but we wouldn’t recommend a nighttime trip if it’s Czech
your first time. Check with the rental company if you plan to Republic
drive into Kosovo with a rental car from abroad.
Austria
Switzerland Slovenia Romania
Croatia
Pristina’s districts Bosnia Serbia
Bulgaria
Pristina’s city centre (‘qendra’) is surrounded by low Montenegro Kosovo
hills with several districts draped over them. Velania, FYR Macedonia
to the east between the centre and Germia park has Albania
upmarket housing, the city park, and is best known Greece
as the place where President Rugova used to live,
and where he now lies buried. Just south of Velania
is Bregu i Diellit, better known as Sunny Hill. South
of the centre, Ulpiana is the high-rise modern district
east of Bul. i Deshmoreve, Dardania is west of it. The In Your Pocket has broken much new ground of
narrow roads in Arbëria (also known under its Slavic late, publishing new guides in the Netherlands (Den
name Dragodan), the district on the hillside west of the Bosch, Utrecht), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Brac
centre, are crammed with the 4WDs of the expats and and Senj), in Slovenia (Celje), in Serbia (Nis) and in
embassies based here. To the north of the centre lies Switzerland (Zurich). A new guide to Minsk, Belarus,
Kodra e Trimave. As a foreign visitor, you’ll probably
will be the next In Your Pocket to launch.
only ever need to leave the centre to visit Velania, where
there are several hotels, and perhaps Arbëria which is We have also begun rolling out iPhone apps to all our
home to some good restaurants. A large concentration cities. We will be launching even more In Your Pocket
of cafés, bars and restaurants can be found in ‘Qyteza guides as apps throughout 2011: to find out which ci-
Pejton’ (Peyton city, named after the raunchy 1960s ties we will be covering, and to keep up to date with
drama serial, Peyton Place), the low-rise area south of all In Your Pocket news and events, like In Your
the Grand hotel, between Rr. Garibaldi, Bul. Nënë Teresa Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket)
and Bul. Bill Clinton. or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

Pristina In Your Pocket pristina.inyourpocket.com


Crime & Safety
The well-being of honoured guests (you) is a major source of
concern and pride for the locals, and rather than being mugged,
you’re more likely to be overwhelmed with hospitality. Despite
the locals’ friendly attitude, it’s important to stay alert for
petty crime such as bag-snatching and hotel room or house
burglaries. Lock up your valuables in the safe or leave them at
home, and don’t wander around unlit alleys at night. Pedestrians
should be aware of holes in or bits of metal sticking out of the
pavement, missing sewer lids and surprisingly deep puddles.
Outside Pristina, if you don’t know the area, don’t leave asphalt
or well trodden paths as there still are some mines.
Electricity
Electricity is the ubiquitous energy product that powers the
whole of Europe with the exception of Kosovo, where they’ve
chosen the rather novel approach of switching it off for large
periods of the day and night. When it works, electrical current
is 220 Volts and is distributed by Kosovo’s KEK electricity
company via standard European plugs. There are daily
power cuts, effectively caused by nobody bothering to pay
their electricity bills, and nobody really willing to do anything
about it. Electricity in Kosovo is divided into three categories,
namely A, B and C. Categories are assigned according to
how good individual areas of each municipality are at paying
their electricity bills. Under normal circumstances category A
means an uninterrupted flow of the stuff. Category B is on for
five hours then off for one, and category C entitles you to four
on and two off. Under so-called extraordinary circumstances
category A becomes B, B becomes C, and C has to suffer
power cuts for fifty percent of the time. This makes living (and
socialising) a bit of an adventure to say the least. The daily
ritual of revving up the smelly little home generator outside all
restaurants and shops is the defining and deafening sound of
Pristina. In short, bring a torch. In winter, it’s important to ask
if your room heater runs on electricity, and if the hotel has a
back-up generators. If you’re living here, keep in mind that if
there’s no electricity you’ll probably also lose water pressure,
so it’s a good idea to keep a few buckets of water handy just
in case Pristina goes Stone Age just when you’re shaving.
Money
The euro (€, divided in 100 cents) is the official currency of
Kosovo, though Serbian dinars are also used in some Serb-
majority areas. Euro banknotes come in denominations of €5,
€10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500, and can look pretty
Climate
Pristina has a predominantly continental climate,
meaning warm summers and cold, wet winters.
70
60
50
rainfall (mm)
40
30
20
10
0 -30
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul
rainfall average daily temp. (max)
pristina.inyourpocket.com
BASICS 9
crummy as they’re not replaced as often as in eurozone
countries. The coins, whose design depends on in which
country they were minted in, come in denominations of
€0.01, €0.02, €0.05, €0.10, €0.20, €0.50, €1 and €2. Cash
is king in Kosovo, though an increasing number of shops
and restaurants is getting plugged into the grid. Although
you can change money in banks and exchange offices and
with grinning men in black leather jackets, ATMs are really
the best way to get cash.
Smoking
Smoking is forbidden in all public institutions, educational
institutions and healthcare institutions unless there’s a
designated smoking area. Most bars and cafés have some
kind of non-smoking area. And since early 2011, authorities
are actually enforcing the law.
Visas & Borders
Citizens of the EU, the USA and Canada and can stay in
Kosovo for 90 days without further paperwork. After this
period, extensions can be requested from the Pristina’s
main police office on Rr. Luan Haradinaj. Arrival formalities
at the borders and airport are dealt with by Kosovo police
staff wearing large 1955 NYPD hats. As Serbia does not
acknowledge Kosovo’s independence, it considers it illegal
for anyone to be there without a valid Serbian entry stamp,
but as long as you enter and leave from a third country,
there’s not much they can do about it. When travelling from
Kosovo to Serbia note that you won’t be able to leave Serbia
any other way than back via Kosovo. Entering Serbia from
another country with a Kosovo border stamp in your passport
may result in petty harassment and a cool but otherwise
meaningless ‘annulled’ stamp firmly placed on top of it,
but little else. It’s not a problem to travel through Serbia to
Kosovo and then leave to a third country.
Basic data
Population
Kosovo 2,180,686 (2010 estimate)
Pristina 197,000 (2009 estimate)
Ethnic groups: Albanian 92%, Serb 5,3%, other 2,7%.
Geography
Kosovo is located in southeastern Europe in the central
Balkan Peninsula. Entirely surrounded by high mountains
its terrain is varied, ranging from high plains some 500
metres above sea level to hills and mountains. The
country is 10,908 km2, while Pristina covers 572 km2
and can be found between 535 and 580 metres above
sea level. Kosovo is bordered by four countries, namely
Montenegro (border length 78.6km) to the northwest,
40 Serbia (border 351.6km) to the north and northeast,
Macedonia (border 158.7km) to the south and Albania
30
(border 111.8km) to the west and southwest. The longest
20 river in Kosovo is the Drini i Bardhë (122km) that flows
temperature (°C)
through Albania and out into the Adriatic. The highest
10
mountain is Gjeravica (2,656m), located in the Peja region
0
in the west of the country.
-10 Local time
-20
Kosovo is in the Central European Time zone (CET),
GMT+1 hour. When it’s 12:00 in Pristina it’s 06:00 in
New York, 11:00 in London and 19:00 in Tokyo. Central
Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec European Summer Time (GMT+2 hours) runs from the
average daily temp. (min) last Sunday in March until the last Sunday in October.
Spring - Summer 2011
10 CULTURE & EVENTS
Pristina’s cultural life is slowly improving after several
desolate decades.
Cinemas
Currently there are two small cinemas in town, though
there are longstanding plans for a five-screen multiplex.
Kino ABC B-2, Rr. Rexhep Luci 1, tel. +381 38 24 31
17, www.kinoabc.info. Kino ABC and its sister ABC-1
show Hollywood releases, documentaries and occasionally
have film festivals. Find the English-language programme on
the website. There’s a small bar with old film projectors too.
Kino ABC-1 A-2, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +381 38 22
20 86, www.kinoabc.info. The ABC-1 cinema has a large,
modern hall with cheerful rainbow-coloured seating.
Cultural centres
British Council A - 3, Rr. Perandori Justinian 6, tel.
+381 38 243 29 21 01, Info@ks.britishcouncil.org,
www.britishcouncil.org/kosovo. Travellers are welcome
to visit and read books and newspapers in the library. To take
items including CDs and DVDs home, membership is required
(€20-40 per year). QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Espace Culturel Français (Qendra Kulturore
Franceze) Bul. Nëne Tereza, tel. +377 44 30 90 94,
ecf_pr@yahoo.fr, www.ecf-prishtina.org. The French cul-
tural centre in the French departement of Pristina University
offers language courses, a library (€10 per year) with books,
CDs and DVDs, and organises events. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00,
Mon, Tue 10:00 - 15:00; 17:00-19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Music & Dance
Kosova Ballet (Trupa e Baletit e Kosovës) B-2, Bul.
Nëna Tereza 21, tel. +381 38 22 43 97. The trupa was
established in 1972 within the National Theatre of Pristina,
with the first 27 ballet dancers having graduated in Skopje.
After a ten year break due to the conflict, the first ballet school
was established in 2000. The group occasionally performs
at the National Theatre.
Kosova Philharmony & Opera (Opera e Kosovës)
B-3, Rr. Sylejman Vokshi, tel. +381 38 24 49 39, kosova.
philharmony@gmail.com. Pristina’s orchestra has about
100 members and performs irregulary.
Theatres
Dodona Puppet Theatre C-2, Rr. Xhelal Mitrovica,
tel. +381 38 23 06 23, dodona86@yahoo.com. Putting
on puppet, children’s and youth shows since 1986, the
Dodona Theatre is very popular with the local kids. During
the repressive years of the 1990s, this was the only Albanian
cultural institution that was not completely restricted. In and
after 1999, the theatre did performances for child refugees
across the region, and has also toured Kosovo villages with
a puppet show warning children of the danger of landmines -
which perhaps explains why the puppets all have wooden legs.
National Theatre B-2, Bul. Nëna Tereza 21, tel./fax
+381 38 24 39 30, info@teatrikombetar.eu, www.
teatrikombetar.eu. Founded in 1946 in Prizren, the birth-
place of all cultural things Albanian, the National Theatre
puts on Albanian-language plays and shows. With help from
the authorities and sponsors, the theatre has revived after
a difficult period of censorship, forced management and staff
Pristina In Your Pocket
changes and a dictated repertoire between 1981 and 1999.
In that period some directors and actors went underground
to performed illegal plays, some performed at the Dodona
theatre. Performances start at 20:00.
ODA Theatre (Teatri ODA) A-2/3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj,
Pallati i Rinisë dhe i Sporteve, 111, tel. +381 38 24 65
55, fax +381 (0)38 24 65 55, oda@teatrioda.com, www.
teatrioda.com. A small independent theatre founded in 2002
staging plays, music, film and art exhibitions, and is known
for hosting the Jazz festival every November. There’s a café
with an art book library too. Adjacent to the car park behind
the Pallati i Rinesë complex. Q Tickets €3-7.
Events in Pristina
DAM Fest
The International Festival of Young Musicians brings
classical music to Pristina, with per formances by
hundreds of musicians in various venues during March
and April. Admission is free. Information: tel. +377 44
55 54 04, info@damfest.com, www.damfest.com.
Freedom Fest
A music festival held on 11 and 12 June, organised by
a local radio station. Information: bardhi@radiourban.
fm, www.radiourbanfm.com
SURF Urban Festival
The Summer Urban Festival organises various events
throughout the city from June to August: concerts,
exhibitions, workshops, etc. Information: +386 49 50
75 21, www.summerurbanfestival.com.
9/11 Dedication Festival
The film festival that commemorates the 9/11 attacks
takes place around 11September at Pristina’s National
Theatre. It features short films (5-30 minutes) by
local directors, all provided with English subtitles.
Information: tel. +381 38 50 07 23, info@911fest.
com, www.911fest.com.
PriFilmFest
The Pristina International Film Festival is held at the
Kino ABC cinema in September. The main prize is a
‘Golden Goddess’ award; a stylish golden version of
Pristina’s 6,000-year old Hynesha në Fron statue.
Information: tel. +381 38 22 11 44, info@prifilmfest.
org, www.prifilmfest.org.
Prishtina Jazz Festival
In November Pristina hosts the annual Prishtina Jazz
Festival. Held in the ODA theatre, just behind the Pallati
i Rinise complex, there is a concert every evening at
20:00, with bands from across the region and beyond.
Information: tel+381 38 24 65 55, jazzprishtina@
gmail.com, www.jazzprishtina.com.
Skena Up Film & Theatre Festival
Skena Up, held in December, is a visual arts festival
with a competitive element. It’s dedicated to film
and theatre students and aims to bring new works
to a wide audience and to bring together artists and
audiences from varying cultural backgrounds. As it
involves students, there’s plenty of beer and parties
too. Shows are at the National Theatre and Kino ABC
cinema. Information: tel. +381 38 72 24 63, contact
info@skenaup.com, www.skenaup.com.
pristina.inyourpocket.com
 LORD HOTEL

At Hotel Lord, our goal is to provide our guests with far more than a
tranquil place to rest. That’s precisely why each and every one of our
22 guest rooms is gracefully appointed, boasting thoughtful amenities
enhanced by truly attentive service.
Price from 49 euros per person.

HOTEL LORD
Veternik, Prishtina, Kosova
Tel: +381 38 55 33 91, +377 45 322 522
info@lordroom.com, www.lordroom.com
12 WHERE TO STAY
Pristina’s accommodation scene is improving; there’s
now a good selection of mid-range and (slightly) upmarket Symbol key
hotels, though few rise above three-star standard. No
international chains have dared enter the local market yet. P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled
Upmarket R Dataport L Guarded parking
Ambasador B-3, Rr. Ardian Krasniqi 1, tel. +381 38 24 83 F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms
00/+381 38 24 84 00, fax +381 38 24 85 00, info@hotel-
ambasador.com, www.hotel-ambasador.com. Pristina’s K Restaurant C Swimming pool
best hotel is defined by its elegant central atrium space that W Wi-Fi
is clad with natural stone. The rooms include elegant doubles,
sweet suites and apartments with big Jacuzzi tubs in the open
bathrooms. The fifth-floor restaurant, complete with fireplace,
is for hotel guests only. The best surprise is the sauna area in
the basement. Just east of the city centre, beside the Swiss
Purchasing power
embassy. Q 18 rooms (singles €80-92, doubles €110, suites
€127, apartments €150). PLKDW How far does your euro. pound or dollar go in Pristina?
Exchange rates (15 Mar 2011): €1 = £0.86 = US$1.40
Baci Bul. i Dëshmorëve, tel. +381 38 54 83 56/+381 38 Product Price
35 63 57, fax +381 38 54 83 58, hotel@bacicompany.
Espresso coffee €0.70
com, www.bacicompany.com. Baci is a modern hotel on the Glass of local beer (0.5 litre) €1.50-2
southern end of the city, along the main road into town. Behind Mineral water (1 litre) €0.30
the mirror glass facade, the wooden lobby is a grand affair with Hamburger €1-2.50
a fountain and attentive staff. Rooms are modern, standard Cinema ticket €3-5
but efficient and fitted out with showers - the only problem is Public transport ticket €0.40
the street noise; take a room facing the back for peace. Free Litre of petrol €1.12
laundry service included. Q 22 rooms (singles €76, doubles 100km by bus/train €3-5
€100, apartments €130-180). PHARLKW

Grand A-3, Bul. Nëna Tereza, tel. +381 38 22 02 10/+377
44 72 69 13, fax +381 38 24 81 38, info@grandhotel-pr.
com, www.grandhotel-pr.com. This huge 1977 building that
dominates central Pristina is the main local landmark, the lobby
a quaint relic of 1970s design. The hotel is currently slowly
undergoing much-needed renovations and room upgrades.
The spacious facilities on the lower floors attract large confer-
ences and dinners, and there’s free wifi on the upper floors. Q
369 rooms (184 singles €70, 175 doubles €100, triples €120,
2 suites €180-250, 8 apartments €200). HALKW

Adria Hotel is among the best hotels in Kosovo, close to the embassies and international
offices. Built in 2006, it has 7 floors designed to combine classic and modern.
An elegant hotel with staff that makes your stay in Kosovo special.

Rruga Ahmet Krasniqi, Arbëria, Prishtina, Tel: +381 (0)38 226 222
hoteladria@yahoo.com, info@hoteladria-ks.com, www.hoteladria-ks.com

Pristina In Your Pocket pristina.inyourpocket.com

 In the heart of Prishtina
Located along the pedestrianised main shopping and business street of Prishtina,
the Grand Hotel is an elegant, modern hotel that is perfectly situated for easy
exploration of Prishtina's principal attractions. The hotel offers free minibar and
wifi in the rooms, various bars and restaurants. The Grand Hotel is also the ideal
venue for business events, corporate meetings and receptions.

Grand Hotel Prishtina

Blv. Mother Theresa, 10000 Prishtina, Kosova
Tel:+381 38 220-210 / 220-211 / Ext: 359, Fax: +381 38 248-138
info@grandhotel-pr.com, reception@grandhotel-pr.com
www.grandhotel-pr.com
14 WHERE TO STAY
Prishtina A-3, Rr. Pashko Vasa 20, tel./fax +381
38 22 32 84, reser vations@hotelprishtina.com,
w w w.hotelprishtina.com. Bet ter value than most
others, the Prishtina is perhaps the best city centre
hotel. It has large and modern rooms with soft beds,
big TVs and free minibar. The apar tments are downright
swank y, each with their own sauna booth. Downstairs
there’s a good restaurant. Walking distance to any-
where you’d need to be. Q 43 rooms (20 singles €81,
4 doubles €100, 6 suites €150, 13 apar tments €116).
PHARFLGKCW
Royal A-3, Rr. Robert Doll 3, tel. +381 38 22 09 02,
fax +381 38 22 09 03, info@royalhotel-pr.com, www.
royalhotel-pr.com. A modern hotel on a quiet road in Pej-
ton, close to bars and offices. Apart from elegant rooms, it
boasts a restaurant, bar, an underground indoor pool and
sauna. There are laundry and dry cleaning services and an
airport transfer service. Room 112 is the Nicole Kidman
suite - it was good enough for her, so why not for you? Q 44
rooms (singles €82, doubles €110, apartments €135-150).
PHAFLKDCW
Victory Bul. i Dëshmorëve, tel. +381 38 54 32 77/+381
38 54 32 67, fax +381 38 54 32 86, info@hotel-victory.
com, www.hotel-victory.com. Located between two busy
roads on the southern edge of town, the Victory is popular
with foreigners. rooms are large, and the bathrooms feature
magnificent neo-Rococco toilets that we haven’t seen any-
where else. Victory is easy to spot as you drive into town from
Skopje - look for the building with the statue of Lady Liberty
on the roof. Q 42 rooms (singles €80, doubles €100, suites
€120). PHALKW
Mid-range
The mid-range hotels, with double rooms priced from €60-
100 per night, offer good-value kip.
Adria Rr. Ahmet Krasniqi, Arbëria, tel./fax +381 38
22 62 22, tel. +377 44 355 366, info@hoteladria-ks.
com, www.hoteladria-ks.com. Near to the embassy
district and along the main road west, Adria offers great
views over southern Pristina from some of its well-sized
rooms. The new rooms at the rear of the complex are
away from the traffic noise and are fabulously kitschy,
each with a different design involving plenty of Baroque
frills and doors with a red HAL light scanning the corridor.
Q 17 rooms (singles €44, doubles €62, apar tments
€99). PHKW
Afa B-4, Rr. Ali Kelmendi 15, tel. +381 38 22 77 22, fax
+381 38 24 46 82, office@hotelafa.com, www.hotelafa.
com. One of our favourite hotels in Kosovo, featuring friendly
receptionists and some rather large and well-furnished rooms,
Afa shines brightly above many hotels in Pristina that charge
more. Other bonuses include fast laundry service, chamber-
maids who ask you if you’re happy with their work, discounts
at weekends and a super secluded garden out the back. Q
52 rooms (singles €45-69, doubles €75-92, apartment €92-
112). PHARLKDW
Centro A-3, Rr. Perandori Justinian 56, tel. +386 49 80
98 09/+381 38 60 98 09, fax +381 38 60 98 10, info@
hotelcentro-ks.com, www.hotelcentro-ks.com. A modern
villa along the Pejton district’s main street has neat rooms
arranged around a central atrium. There’s a restaurant and
café/bar with a terrace facing the street so you don’t even
have to leave the hotel to enjoy Pristina’s famed café scene.
Q 9 rooms (doubles €69-99). PALW
Pristina In Your Pocket
Luxor Rr. Nazim Gafurri, tel. +381 38 60 88 88/+381 38
60 87 77, reservation@hotelluxor.net, www.hotelluxor.
net. The best choice for those who appreciate peace, quiet
and jogging, the Luxor is set in the quiet green surroundings of
Gërmia park, two kilometres east of the city centre. The large
rooms have big windows, balconies with views and come with
proper showers. The restaurant is surprisingly good, with a
palm-lined terrace outside. Q 14 rooms (8 singles €50-90,
6 doubles €60-70). PLW
Lyon C-3, Rr. Rrustem Statovci, tel. +381 38 22 09
97/+377 44 24 50 82, hotel_lyon@hotmail.com, www.
hotel-lyon-pr.com. Up on the hill east of the centre, overlook-
ing the park, the Lyon is a decent budget option for those
willing to take taxis or to slog up the hill. Rooms are compact,
modern and equipped with central heating, and some have
big bathtubs. The quiet rooms are at the back. On our first
visit, the bouncy rubber lion on the reception desk suggested
the hotel name was simply an unfortunate misspelling. Q 18
rooms (10 singles €35, 5 doubles €45, 2 triples €70, 1 suite
€50 ). PALKW
Newborn B-3, Rr. Nak Berisha 27, tel. +381 38 22 71 20,
fax +381 38 22 71 35, www.hotel-newborn.com. A small
and quiet retreat that’s named after the fledgling republic and
within walking distance of the city centre. A dozen simple but
adequate rooms in various shades of red overlook the dead-
end street or the garden and come with wifi and satellite TV.
Q 12 rooms (singles €49, doubles €69). PLKW
Ora B-2, Rr. A.Z. Çajupi 4, tel./fax +381 38 23 37 09,
tel. +377 44 15 78 35, ora_hotel@yahoo.com, www.
hotelora.com. An excellent mid-range business hotel on a
quiet street just north of the centre, best reached from the
eastern end of Rruga UÇK. The Ora has good-sized rooms
in bright colours, a restaurant/bar and extremely dedicated,
friendly staff. A short walk from most international organisa-
tion offices. Q 35 rooms (19 singles €60, 4 doubles €80, 12
apartments €80-100). PALGBKXW
Pandora Apartments A-2, Rr. Zagrebi 19, tel. +377 44
18 25 58. Lead the high life in the Pandora Tower’s handful of
top-floor deluxe apartments - each quite large and equipped
with a Jacuzzi, wifi, a free minibar and panorama windows
displaying Pristina in all its dusty glory. A short walk across
the railway tracks to the bars and restaurants on Rruga Fehmi
Agani. Q 5 rooms (apartments €79-109). PKW
Pejton A-3, Rr. Pashko Vasa 14a, tel. +381 38 22 22
04/+377 44 30 80 80, fax + 381 38 22 22 04, info@
hotelpejton.com, www.hotelpejton.com. Next door and
similar to the Real, this small modern hotel has a handful of
nicely-furnished rooms just a short walk from the city centre.
Two of the rooms feature Jacuzzis, and four minibar drinks
are on the house. Q 12 rooms (10 singles €69, 2 doubles
€92). KDW
Pinocchio Apartments Rr. 24 Maji 115, tel. +386
49 60 99 91, pinocchiohotel-ks@hotmail.com. Uphill in
the upscale Arbëria suburb, and right above the excellent
restaurant of the same name, Pinocchio has balconied rooms
affording great views over town. Q 9 rooms (5 singles €55,
4 doubles €85). PKW
Pristina’s best hotel?
See page 44 and tell us
pristina.inyourpocket.com
 20 Vaso Pasha Street
Payton Place
10000 Prishtina, Kosova
tel/fax +381 38 22 32 84
reservations@hotelprishtina.com
www.hotelprishtina.com

Hotel Prishtina is located in the heart of the

city’s most important business district. Our 43
charming guest rooms and suites are reminiscent
of a small hotel in the European tradition. You'll
immediately feel at home in our living room,
sipping a glass of wine in our fine restaurant
surrounded by a gallery of paintings by local artists.
The hotel offers free fast wifi internet,
complimentary breakfast and minibar, conference
room, swimming pool, sauna and laundry service.
Just step out the door and you'll find art galleries,
bars, specialty shops, theaters and restaurants, all
within easy walking distance.

Business & Holidays...

with Hotel Prishtina
16 WHERE TO STAY
Apartments & Rooms
Internationals looking for long-term accommodation
are advised to search carefully to avoid being fleeced.
YREA (Your Real Estate Agent) tel. +381 38
55 36 72/+386 49 55 01 11, yrea@live.com, www.
inpristina.webs.com. Fully furnished apartments in the
city centre and in Dardania, sleeping up to 5 persons at a
flat rate of €20-60 per night depending on the duration.
Also long-term apartment rental (www.acommodation.
webs.com).
Zogu C-4, Rr. Edit Durham, tel./fax +381 38 24 44
19, tel. +377 44 88 80 01, agzogu@hotmail.com,
www.agencyzogu.tk. An agency for budget apartment
housing, both long and short term. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00,
Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Apartments from €10-20
per night, €250-300 per month.
Pllaza A-3, Rr. Pashko Vasa 22, tel. +381 38 22 20
09/+381 38 60 91 22, fax +381 38 22 33 09, info@
hotelpllaza.com, www.hotelpllaza.com. The fourth estab-
lishment on Pristina’s hotel row, Pllaza has comfortable rooms
with rustic landscapes on the walls and balconies. The friendly
staff and a nice ground-floor café/restaurant round off the offer.
Q 12 rooms (10 singles €69, 2 doubles €92). PALKW
Real A-3, Rr. Pashko Vasa 14, tel. +381 38 24 52 70,
fax +381 38 22 50 29, hotel.real@yahoo.com, www.
hotel-real.net. A mirror-image of the attached Pejton Hotel,
the Real is a small central hotel offering small but nice rooms
with Hollywood ceilings and balconies. The renovated rooms
on the fourth floor come in delicate pastel colours. There’s
no satellite TV in the rooms, but a couple of drinks from the
minibar are on the house. Q 12 rooms (singles €69, doubles
€80). PHALKW
Budget
Who said that sleeping in Pristina is expensive? It’s pos-
sible to get a decent and affordable double room in or
near the city centre. here are the hotels with double rooms
priced under €60.
Begolli B-1, Rr. Maliq Pash Gjinolli 8, tel./fax +381 38
24 42 77, tel. +377 44 30 80 93, info@hotelbegolli.
com, www.hotelbegolli.com. Tucked away in the heart of
the bustling bazaar, the Begolli is quite simply a jewel of a find.
With lots of brass and marble in the lobby and a gaggle of
charming receptionists, the rooms are literally full of eastern
promise, with lots of crazy colour schemes, soft, bright drapes
all over the place and DVD players. Some rooms come with a
balcony overlooking the bazaar, whereas others feature huge
baths or, if you’re lucky, massive sauna/Jacuzzi cabins. Q
28 rooms (singles €40, doubles €50, apartments €50-60).
PHALKDW
Guesthouse Velania (Profesor) Rr. Emrush Miftari
4/34, tel. +381 38 53 17 42/+377 44 16 74 55, info@
guesthouse-ks.net, www.guesthouse-ks.net. Also known
as Guesthouse Profesor, Pristina’s cheapest accommoda-
tion is run by an affable former electronics professor. The
rooms in the three-storey house have a hotch-potch of
furniture but are mostly spacious and adequate, each with
satellite TV, electric heaters a private bathroom. Breakfast is
not included, but rooms share well-equipped kitchens, there’s
a free laundry service and a few communal balconies. In the
Pristina In Your Pocket
Velania district, up the hill east of the centre. If the guesthouse
is full, there are an additional 20 similar rooms in a house
nearby. Q (singles €10-15, doubles €15-20. triples €25-30,
apartments €25-35). W
Princi i Arbërit Rr. Vellezerit Fazliu, tel. +381 38 24 42
44, fax +381 38 24 44 42, info@hotel-princiiarberit.com,
www.hotel-princiiarberit.com. A great hotel, unfortunately
stuck on the northeast edge of town. The Princi has elegant,
spacious rooms, good business facilities and a great little
entertainment centre with pool tables, pool and even a bowl-
ing centre. Q 23 rooms (2 singles €40, 16 doubles €50, 5
suites €80-150). PHAFKDCW
Sara B-1, Rr. Maliq Pash Gjinolli, tel. +381 38 23 62
03/+381 38 73 53 22, info@hotelsara-medi.com, www.
hotelsara-medi.com. Very good value accommodation in the
heart of the bazaar, Sara comes with a galaxy of plain choices
from rooms for one to three people to renovated albeit very
simple apartments. Clean and basic, this hotel features lurid
red and green corridors, a handful of satellite television chan-
nels, a few rooms with small Jacuzzis and a garage for two
cars. Q 33 rooms (singles €35, doubles €50, triples €70,
apartments €60-80, suite €99). PHALKW
Xhema B-1, Rr. Malig jash Gjinollli, tel. +377 44 17
76 65, info@hotelxhema.com, www.hotelxhema.com.
Featuring lush oriental rooms with heaps of chintzy wall hang-
ings and a distinctly feminine feel, Xhema is hidden just off
the main road in a peaceful part of the city centre. Facilities
include cable television, the ubiquitous bazaar hotel Jacuzzi
and a DVD player in the studio room. There’s no restaurant,
but the surrounding area features plenty of options for eating
out. Good value for little money. Q 7 rooms (3 doubles €25,
4 apartments €60). LW
Out of town
A short drive from Pristina there are a number of good,
affordable and often brand new hotels.
Emerald Pristina-Skopje highway, tel. +381 38 58 88
88, contact@emeraldhotel.info, www.emeraldhotel.
info. Opened in early 2011, Emerald is a large, top-class
business hotel located a few kilometres out of town on the
Skopje road. Modern rooms have plenty of space and there
are good conference and dining facilities. It’s also one of the
few hotels with an indoor pool complex, with spa and Turkish
baths.Q72 rooms (33 singles €89, 32 doubles €109, 7 suites
€160-395). PHUFLKCW
Gorenje Niti Tiki Veternik, tel./fax +381 38 55 77 00,
info@hotel-gntc.com, www.hotel-gntc.com. Just out of
town, this tall building is instantly visibly along the Skopje
highway, and as you’d expect, the rooms on the top floors offer
great views all round. With several modern conference rooms,
the hotel that’s linked to the Slovenian Gorenje manufacturing
group is firmly geared towards business. The restaurant near
the top of the building has equally good views and lists fresh
fish and frogs legs on the menu. Q 18 rooms (14 doubles
€80, 4 apartments €80). PHARLKW
Lord Veternik, tel. +381 38 55 33 91/+377 45 32 25
22, info@lordroom.com, www.lordroom.com. Near the
Skopje road south of town, Lord hath created a comfortable
five-storey hotel with hypoallergenic sheets, wifi and free
transportation. Deluxe rooms come with a choice of private
jacuzzis or sauna cabins and suites have ample space for
conducting business. Q 22 rooms (singles €49-69, doubles
€74-99, suites €99-139). PHRLW
pristina.inyourpocket.com

First impressions when scouring Pristina for something
to nibble can make you wish you’d brought sandwiches.
However, like so many other things in the city, don’t let
appearances fool you. A largish Balkan city populated
by Albanians and rich foreigners ensures that eating
out in Pristina is deliciously varied, and more than often
excellent. Eating out is cheap too in Prishtina, with main
courses often under €10. You’ll soon be endlessly dazzled
by superb salads, lashings of lamb, fabulous white cheese,
the very best of Turkish food, passable pizza and much
more besides. Ignore the battalions of beleaguered expats
who tell you what a dreadful experience Pristina is, and
simply tuck in. Who cares if the waiter has a cigarette in
his mouth? He really is genuinely pleased to serve you.
Chinese
Chinese Restaurant A-2, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +377
44 38 49 28. Popular with foreigners looking to spice up
their meals (witness the expat trophy badges and flags on
display), this aptly named restaurant is nicely done up with
lanterns and painted masks. The short menu offers Chinese
classics, including dumplings, seafood and pork options, at
around €5; try the sizzler plates or ask the cook (who is from
Harbin) for a recommendation. If you just can’t get enough,
the restaurant also offers foot, head, ear and other mas-
sages, starting at €25 per hour. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. €€ GS
Fast food
For the local take on fast food, see the Burek listings.
Bel Ami A-2, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +377 44 13 38
48/+386 49 13 38 48. The ideal city centre stop for a
quick lunch or take-away snack, Bel Ami unceremoniously
serves the best chicken doner in Pristina in a surprisingly
ungreasy, smoke-free environment. Ask for the komplet to
get the classic doner packed with salad and sauces and
wrapped in tin foil. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun. € GS
Route 66 A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +381 38 22 72
25/+377 44 93 86 66. A fun, bright and brash American
diner right opposite the UN compound. The menu includes
classics such as chicken burgers, buffalo wings, fajitas and
nachos, and takes the Micky out of UNMIK with its Bondsteel
sandwich (named after the largest US military camp), and the
Bill Clinton enchilada (with extra chilli sauce). The platter
for two is €5,50. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 02:00.
€ GBX
Fish
Yes, you can get fresh sea fish in landlocked Kosovo - it’s
trucked in every day from Shëngjin on the Albanian coast.
Restaurant talk
Waiter! Kamarier
A table for two Një tavolinë për dy persona
Non-smoking/smoking Ndalohetduhani/Lejohetduhani
The menu please Menyn ju lutem
I’d like to order Do të doja ta bëja porosinë
Do you have vegetarian food?
A keni ushqim vegjetarian?
Surprise me! Më befaso
The bill, please Faturën ju lutem
pristina.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS 17
Symbol key
P Air conditioning B Outside seating
A Credit cards accepted L Guarded parking
E Occasional live music S Take away
G No smoking I Fireplace
Restaurant prices
As an indication of cost, in each review we’ve indicated
the average price of a main course, without drinks:
€ up to €5
€€ between €5 and €10
€€€ over €10
Hemingway A-4, Rr. Ilaz Kodra 9, tel. +386 49 14 56
37/+377 44 14 56 37, hemingway038@gmail.com.
Hemingway is tucked away in an unappealing end of the city
but worth a trip if you are craving food of the piscine variety.
It’s a pretty basic sort of set-up and relatively expensive for
the setting, but undoubtedly one of the best places in town
for fresh sea fish. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. €€
Vila Corona Rr. Shpëtim Robaj, tel. +381 38 51 70
00/+377 44 50 95 90. The quiet surroundings of Gërmia park,
only disturbed by the restaurant’s fountains and the soft scurrying
of waiters’ feet, are perfect for a relaxed seafood or meat-based
meal finished off with a Sharr cheese platter. Upmarket furnishings,
a fireplace and knowledgeable staff complete the experience.
Near the Luxor hotel. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. €€-€€€ PTIB
Food with a view
Pandora A-2, Rr. Zagrebi 19, tel. +377 44 18 25 58.
Compared to a “twinkling 10-storey imperial destroyer from
Star Wars” by the Financial Times, Pristina’s first skyscraper
has a panorama lift shooting you up to the top floor where
there’s a restaurant (serving pizza, pasta, fish and grilled
meat) and terrace with views. One floor up is the bar where
customers and their drinks are stirred anti-clockwise on the
rotating floor. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€
Indian
Bollywood B-2, Rr. Hajdar Dushi 20, tel. +377 45 46 31
86/+386 49 30 41 53, bollywoodrestaurant@ymail.com.
Bollywood’s dead-end street location and drab and dingy decor
do its decent food a disservice. If you’re desperate for a taste of
the subcontinent, it’s certainly not bad place, with a varied selec-
tion of Indian dishes, but it would improve considerably if they
gave the place a lick of paint. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. €-€€ VS
Mumtaz Mahal Rr. Ahmet Krasniqi, Arbëria, tel. +377
44 11 47 26. Next to the Adria hotel along the Mitrovica road,
and overlooking the city from its high perch, Pristina’s best
Indian restaurant serves up curries that have expats reaching
for the fire extinguishers, a proper tandoor oven churning out
tasty dishes and naan. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €
International
A&A B-4, Rr. Rexhep Mala 39, tel. +381 38 23 95
35/+377 44 16 17 13. A small restaurant on a side street
west of the centre. Smartly dressed waiters pop in and out of
the kitchen to bring well-prepared salads, home made pastas
and dishes such as pan-grilled eggplant with mint and vinegar
or birjani chicken. The terrace features a cool fogging system
for hot days. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. €€ PGBSW
Spring - Summer 2011
18 RESTAURANTS
Amadeus Rr. Ahmet Krasniqi, Arbëria, tel. +381 38 22
35 00/+377 44 18 56 50, admin@restaurantamadeus. Burek
com, www.restaurantamadeus.com. A long-surviving
restaurant at the foot of Arbëria hill, serving up Italian and Burek, known to Albanians as byrek, is a flaky pastry
Kosovar dishes. There’s traditional food like mantia and fli, containing cheese, spinach or meat, and is the universal
but call ahead to order as these take hours to prepare. Q and ubiquitous Balkan snack that simply has to be tried
€€ PBX when you’re in the region. From the Turkish bur, mean-
ing to twist, burek is found in bakeries all over Pristina,
Baron A-3, Rr. Garibaldi, tel. +381 38 72 00 74/+386 the most popular outlet is the Bosna chain, who have
49 12 22 29. Set in the side of the Pallati i Rinisë complex, a number of small shops scattered around the city.
Baron is a large modern restaurant with a huge terrace. Below are two of our favourites. Just ask for byrek me
The house dish, veal steak with prosciutto ham and cheese mish (byrek with meat) or me djath (with cheese). It’s
comes recommended. On Wednesday and Friday evenings best downed with ayran, a salty yoghurt drink; count on
there’s live music. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. paying less than €1 for a set.
€€ PGBW
Bosna 2 A-3, Bul. Dëshmorëve, tel. +377 44 37 54
Chalet Denis Rr. Ahmet Krasniqi, tel. +381 38 22 36. One of this infamous chain’s less salubrious outlets,
58 75/+377 44 79 91 18. This wooden chalet by the the location is at least highly central, and the long, thin
Adria hotel offers good views of town from the terrace and burek they sell here is out of this world. QOpen 07:00 -
has enough seating at its wooden cartwheel chairs and 22:00. Closed Sun. € BS
tables to feed local and international dishes to dozens
of people. Speciality of the house is the omelet, which Bosna 4 A-3, Rr. Perandori Justinian, tel. +381 38
basically contains ever y thing. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00. 24 59 19/+381 38 22 65 11. Great burek amidst
€€ PGBXW extraordinarily quirky décor. Lots of shapes and colours
in an instantly recognisable communist style. QOpen
De Rada A/B-2, Rr. UÇK 50, tel. +381 38 22 26 22. 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. € BS
Named after a romantic Albanian-Italian writer, this upmar-
ket restaurant serves up home made pasta, fillet steaks,
fresh bread, salads, daily specials and more. With the light
music, some poetry and old photos on the walls, it’s a Ex B-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 3/8, tel. +377 44 55 77
decent choice, though the waiters got bad marks from a 00/+377 44 15 70 39. A superb place for spotting Kosovo
few PIYP readers recently. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed politicos and other celebrities wolfing down excellent dishes
Sun. €€ PLBXW like there’s no tomorrow. Attentive staff can advise when
you’re wondering if you should take the Finnish beef or the
Thai noodles with curry, the Malaysian saté or the fresh
Menu decoder mussels, or perhaps the teriyaki... or the Indian barbecue
chicken. Vegetarians are well catered too. Booking ahead
Meat & Fish Mish & Peshk is wise, especially for lunch. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun
beef Mish lope 16:00 - 23:00. €€
chicken pulë
lamb mish qeng ji Gagi Café B-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 12, tel. +386 49 52
pork mish derri 25 11, gagicafe@gmail.com, www.gagicafe.com. A
sausage suxhuk dazzlingly modern three-storey venue with food served on
veal mish viçi all floors, and plenty of terraces to enjoy the sun. The menu
schnitzel shnitcell includes fresh calamari, frogs’ legs and delicious home
fish mish peshku made cheese cake. The piano is tinkled on Thursday and
salmon salmon Saturday. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. €€-€€€
sea food ushqim deti PVEGXW
trout troftë
burger pleskavicë Gizzi Grill Pristina-Skopje highway, Grand Store mall,
kebab qebapa tel. +377 44 65 59 66, www.gizzigroup.com. Perhaps
the best thing to come to Kosovo since the Ottomans, Gizzi
Fruits and vegetables Pemët dhe perimet Grill is a popular restaurant set beside the mall, serving
apple mollë just about anything you’d like. There’s a Mexican and US
banana banane breakfast (with pork bacon), goulash, some excellent lunch
cabbage lakër sandwiches and burgers, steaks, salads, fish dishes and to
carrot karotë top it all off, a selection of local cuisine. Especially popular
eggplant patëllxhan with the after party clubbing crowd. There’s also a Gizzi
mushrooms këpurdha Exclusive in the Kodra e Diellit district. QOpen 07:00 -
orange portokall 02:00. €€ PGBXW
peppers speca
tomatoes domate Hani i 2 Robertëve A/B-3, Bul. Nëna Tereza 3, tel.
pickles turshi +377 44 11 72 19/+377 44 11 26 09, info@hani-
2roberteve.com, www.hani2roberteve.com. The excel-
Drinks pijet lent ‘two Roberts’ restaurant is a popular venue for dinners
beer birrë and receptions. The han (inn) has grilled meat, pasta, and
juice lëng seafood on the menu, as well as a great selection of wines.
wine verë There’s live music every Friday. Located near the Grand,
water ujë behind the Zahir Pajaziti monument. Book ahead. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00. €€-€€€ PEGBX

Pristina In Your Pocket pristina.inyourpocket.com

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U Street
Open Every Day SALA THAI
Massage & Spa
Luan Haradinaj

Q
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from 11.00 till 23.00 First Floor

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Tel: 044 168 521
20 RESTAURANTS
Home A-2, Rr. Mig jeni 1, tel. +381 38 22 40 41/+377
44 33 63 36, home@prishtinanet.com. For many expats
working in Pristina, this is as close to home as it gets - the chef
cook worked in London and conjures up great breakfasts and
divine dinners. Try the Greek chicken, the eggplant tower with
tomatoes, or a local specialities such as llokuma (wedding
doughnuts) or përshutë (dried meat). With two small, dark
rooms and quality music playing, the atmosphere inside is
relaxed and intimate. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00
- 23:00. €€ GBXW
Lounge Food & More A-3, Rr. Perandori Justinian
C12, tel. +381 38 73 74 75/+381 38 22 62 15, www.
lounge-prishtina.com. A bustling, barn-like place that does
a bit of everything - sandwiches and home made pasta for
lunch; Italian and seafood dinners; cocktail, beer and wine
specials at night and lavish brunches and rocking club music
on weekends. Opposite the cathedral entrance. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00. €-€€ PGBXW
Mozaik B-3, Rr. Sylejman Vokshi, tel. +381 38 24 76
34. A classy-looking upmarket restaurant with congenial
staff that’s perfect for a quiet business meal. There’s lamb,
grilled meats and pasta to choose from, but don’t be afraid to
order the house speciality, the spicy Mozaik Burger. QOpen
07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€ PLGXW
Parcae A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani, tel. +377 44 22 27
96. An upmarket restaurant that’s rather obviousl y
owned by an architect; the space is filled with an unusual
combination of gold, brown and red shapes and colours.
The Italian-inspired menu lists Filet Parcae with pershut
meat, and fresh trout. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
€€-€€€ PLGBX
Pjata B-3, Rr. Gazmend Zajmi 1, tel. +381 38 22 07 39,
info@pjata.com, www.pjata.com. With a modern interior
featuring plenty of wood, paintings and shelves of wine, Pjata
is a small but popular restaurant serving pasta, various meat
dishes, salads and some good cakes for dessert. The set
In the park
Gërmia Park, just east of the city centre and easily
reached by taxi, is home to a handful of restaurants
amidst the trees.
Vila Gërmia Gërmia Park, tel. +381 38 51 77
41/+377 44 29 63 95, info@vilagermia.com, www.
vilagermia.com. The most upmarket restaurant in
Gërmia Park - and indeed one of the best in Pristina - set
at the top of the park road with views over the green
fields and forests. The ranch-like building has a large
terrace and holds various stylish dining areas as well as
well-equipped meeting rooms for up to 100 people. The
house specials include steak and mixed grill, but there’s
also fish, pizza and local cuisine. Open from the first jog-
ger to the last round of cocktails. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00.
€€-€€€ LGBXW
Villa Lira Gërmia Park, tel. +377 44 60 09 30/+377
44 27 15 18. The wooden building at the far end of Gër-
mia Park lacks good views but if you’re willing to make do
with the sight of tall trees surrounding the deck terrace,
you can let the cuisine make up for that. The mixed grill
is very good, as are the fresh fish, steaks and wood-
oven pizzas. Try the Kosovo salad, with potatoes, onion,
parsley and egg. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. €€ PLB
Pristina In Your Pocket
lunch is €7,50 though booking ahead is recommended on
weekdays. Find Pjata at the bottom end of the street. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. €€-€€€ B
Princesha Gresa B-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 23, tel. +381
38 24 58 41/+377 44 11 23 91. If you have a horse-size
hole in your stomach to fill, this is the place to come. The
meal starts with some free bread and dips and is followed by
gargantuan portions of salad, meat, fish, or anything else on
the varied menu. The food is sometimes great, sometimes
average but always served in massive portions. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00. €€-€€€ PGBXW
Renaissance II A-3, Rr. George Bush, tel. +377 44 11
87 96. Renaissance offers arguably the best overall dining
experience in Pristina. It’s quite an experience just to find
the place, tucked away off a tiny alleyway, and enter the
homely, stone building through heavy wooden doors. It’s
€15 per head, and for that you will be kept fed, watered and
supplied with booze for at least a three course meal, includ-
ing a wonderful meze starter and a delicious main course
cooked on embers. Behind the Pro Credit Bank HQ. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. €€-€€€
Rings B-2, Bul. Nëna Tereza 16, tel. +377 44 24 79 99,
www.restaurantrings.com. The flagship of the local Rings
chain has a large interior with dining and lounging happening
around a central bar. Like the other Rings outlets, the food
is international, tasty and well-priced; try the beefsteak with
mozzarella. For a bit of privacy you can book one of the smaller
function rooms, some of them with big windows to keep an
eye on the hoi polloi outside. Also on Rr. Luan Haradinaj (tel.
+381 38 24 79 99) and four other locations. QOpen 07:00
- 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. €€ PGBXW
Select Bistro A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 1/1, tel. +377
44 69 48 11, selectbistro@gmail.com. A modest bistro
and café with a touch of Ontario; the owners used to run a
Toronto deli, and proudly serve Canadian breakfasts and
buttermilk pancakes laced with maple syrup. Retreat to the
non-smoking dining section to sample the cinnamon toast
or omelette breakfasts, the beef with orange, or New York
strip steak with garlic potatoes. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun
16:00 - 23:00. €€ PAGBXW
Te Komiteti (Et Itetimok) B-3, Rr. Qamil Hoxha 5/2,
tel. +381 38 24 96 63/+377 44 78 41 47. Though the
name can be spelled in both directions, the food served in
this pleasant restaurant is strictly one-way traffic. The light
lunches, daily specials, steaks, fresh fish and duck will have
you wandering off a happier person. Even if you’re just here
for drinks (the wine selection is pretty good), you can feast
your eyes on the pictures of food on the walls. QOpen 08:00
- 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. €€ PGBXSW
Ultra B-3, Rr. Sylejman Vokshi 9/1, tel. +381 38 225
155. Opposite Mozaik, this is another smart business res-
taurant, with a very snazzy interior that’s half post-modern
and half exposed brick with paintings. The food on the menu
is as varied as the design and caters well to vegetarians.
Deliciously non-smoking. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00
- 23:00. €€€ PGB
Italian
Arte B-2, Rr. Rexhep Luci 1, tel. +381 38 24 97 09.
Ravioli, penne, tagliatelle and more are served at this pleas-
ant Italian bar/restaurant with its large windows and outdoor
seating near the street corner. QOpen 07:00 - 23:30. Closed
Sun. €€ PGBXW
pristina.inyourpocket.com

Il Passatore C-2, Rr. Hilë Mosi 13, tel. +381 38 51
64 73. Run by the lovely Antonella, Il Passatore serves up
excellent Italian dishes, accompanied by live music on sum-
mer Thursdays. Popular with foreign residents, it has a nice
terrace garden. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00; 19:00-23:00. Closed
Sun. €€ PEB
Osteria Basilico A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 29/1, tel. +381
38 22 54 01/+386 49 27 62 76, info@basilico-ks.com,
www.basilico-ks.com. Rustic-style Italian bistro with a
nice deck outside for al fresco dining on balmy evenings.
The menu is delightfully short, helping both the clients
and the cooks to focus on getting the best pasta, meat
and fish dishes. The results are very good indeed. Leave
space for the tiramisu. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
€€ PGBXW
Pinocchio Rr. 24 Maj 115, tel. +377 44 20 29 52.
An excellent Italian restaurant in the western suburb of
Arbëria. The multi-level seating in the spacious wooden
building offers great views over town, and an opportunity
to enjoy salads, pizza, steak, chicken dishes and grilled
fish. Impeccable service. Downstairs, a large wine bar is a
favourite venue for receptions. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. €€
PILGBXW
Proper Pizza B-3, Rr. Agim Ramadani 24, tel. +377
44 13 13 10/+381 38 54 21 82, info@properpizza.
com, www.properpizza.com. Tasty, proper pizzas, feed-
ing 1 to 4 people, delivered steaming to your table in their
modest restaurant, or to your home or hotel. Choose small,
medium or large, and loosen that belt. QOpen 24hrs. €
PVGBXS
XIX A-2, Rr. Luan Haradinaj 2, tel. +377 44 30 00 02,
info@xixonline.com, www.xixonline.com. XIX’s interior
intentions are hard to grasp with the tartan tablecloths and
daily specials blackboard, but the food couldn’t be much
better. The menu includes 18 pizzas, plus there’s good
antipasto, pasta, beef and fish to boot. There’s a decent
wine list too, and the waiters belong to that rare perfect
breed who remain just the right side of attentive without
sitting on your lap. Brilliant stuff. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 07:00 - 02:00. €-€€ BW
Japanese
Tokyo Rr. Lidhja e Pejës, tel. +377 44 98 85 78/+377
44 37 35 37, tokyoinkosovo@yahoo.com. Tokyo’s chef
conjures up a great set of Japanese dishes. Come on Fridays
when the very popular English-language karaoke evenings
have locals and expats warbling along to evergreen hits.
QOpen 10:30 - 14:30; 17:30-22:30. €€ E
A café terrace in spring
pristina.inyourpocket.com
RESTAURANTS 21
Lunch Cafés
If you’ve just read the entire restaurant chapter of this
guidebook and you still haven’t been served, stay calm,
collect your belongings and pop into one of the below,
where food is served fresh and fast.
Amélie A/B-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 10, tel. +377 45 69
16 61/+377 45 58 05 80, amelieespressobar@gmail.
com. This utterly charming chain of espresso bars is not
to be missed. One of the first places with self-service, it
has fantastic coffee, delicious soups, crepes, quiche and
pastas, as well as a dozen freshly made sandwiches to
choose from, including goat cheese and roast beef. Or try
the shakshuka, eggs with tomato-paprika sauce. Come
early to secure a seat at lunchtime, or call the second
number to have your coffee or meal delivered. Also on Rr.
Perandori Justinian E1 (open 07:00-21:30) and Rr. Agim
Ramadani (corner Rr. Karl Gega; open 07:00-24:00, Sun
closed). QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. € PVGBSW
Aroma Bistro A/B-2, Rr. Rexhep Luci 8a, tel.
+381 38 24 41 25. Featuring a fascinating array
of youngsters who gradually get older as the day
progresses, this is an intriguing female-friendly chain
bistro with good music, better than average coffee
and some of the best sandwiches in Kosovo. Wander
over to the buffet to point out the fresh filling, or go for
a pasta or salad. Also on Bul. Nëna Tereza and Rr. Ilaz
Kodra. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. €€
PVGBXSW
Fresko B-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 17, tel. +377 45 59 75
97, info@freskorks.com, www.freskorks.com. Fresko
isn’t a bad place to grab a sandwich, salad or fresh juice.
This place has some healthy food choices, often with
lots of rucola, which make a pleasant change from meat
and pastry. Their lemon and ginger ale drink is a taste
explosion. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 17:00. € PVGBXS
Friends Sandwich Bar A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 23, tel.
+377 44 14 10 50. A neat café decorated with modern
art that churns out sandwiches and salads at high speed
during lunchtime hours. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sun. € PGBXW
Izzy’s Deli B-2, Rr. Andrea Gropa 38, tel. +381 38 71
60 06/+377 44 20 90 90. Fabulous fresh sandwiches,
made with quality Italian ingredients - to go, to deliver, or
to eat in at Izzy’s simple café. There’s a wide choice of
cut meats, cheese and bread. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00,
Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. € PVS
Metro Café A-3, Rr. Garibaldi 3/1, tel. +377 44
85 85 85/+377 44 11 30 00, info@metrocaffe.net,
www.metrocaffe.net. The Metro Café provides a great
buffet - a display case full of fresh salads and sandwich
ingredients for you to pick. Adorned with large windows
both at the front and back, it’s a prime people-watching
spot too. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. € PGBXW
Pristina’s best restaurant?
See page 44 and tell us
Spring - Summer 2011
22 RESTAURANTS
Out of town
A few very good restaurants can be found along the road
to Gracanica, a ten-minute drive from the city centre.
Getting here by taxi costs under €5.
Country House Pristina-Podujevo road, Bërnicë e
Epërme, tel. +381 38 51 52 55/+377 44 65 60 54.
This rustic restaurant is a 15-minute drive outside Pristina
(on a good day) and provides glorious views across roll-
ing, verdant hills and is especially pleasant place in the
summer to watch the sunset. Overall the food quality is
decent, with special notes for the fresh bread, straight
from the wood stove, and speca me maze (pepper in
cream). Find it right after the Muciqi Mercedes-Benz
garage. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €€-€€€
Puro Veternik, tel. +381 38 60 20 99, info@puro.
in, www.puro.in. Pristina’s best-looking restaurant and
lounge, Puro is a gourmet venture serving imaginative,
top quality French, Italian and oriental dishes such as
halibut in potato crust, or rosemary lamb in honey. Puro
has its own pattisserie - try the chocolate pralines. After
dinner, cocktails are served in the stylish lounge. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. €€-€€€ PGBXW
Rron Veternik, tel. +381 38 60 24 50/+377 44 34
77 77, rron_restaurant@yahoo.com, www.rron-ks.
com. One of Pristina’s most popular upmarket restau-
rants, well worth the trek out of town. The high-ceilinged
modern building has a well-stocked bar and a menu
featuring a varied selection of meat and fish dishes.
In summer, use the pleasant garden and let the kids
romp in the playground. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. €€-€€€
PAGBX
Kosovan
Liburnia 1&2 B-2, Rr. Meto Bajraktari, tel. +381 38 22
27 19. There are actually two Liburnias opposite each other,
both very similar in style and food. Housed in a fine Ottoman
abode and surrounded by pleasant walled gardens, Liburnia
oozes atmosphere, whether in summer or winter. The food
is a roll call of decent traditional Albanian food, including the
usual tave (stews) and grilled meat. It’s not the best place
in town to sample local delicacies, but a good choice given
the setting. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. €€
Pishat B-3, Rr. Qamil Hoxha 11, tel. +381 38 24 53
33/+377 44 24 53 33. Arguably the best restaurant in
Pristina. Located half indoors and half on a terrace that gets
covered during the winter, Pishat (‘the fir tree’) is packed with
local bigwigs who visit regularly to dine on food including cala-
mari, veal, traditional Albanian dishes, delicious bread baked
in a brick oven and the local delicacy that is fli. Pishat is also
one of a few places in Pristina serving pork dishes. QOpen
08:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. €€ PIGBXW
Romantika C-1, Rr. Nazim Gafurri, tel. +377 44 26
35 45. An authentic family-run Kosovo restaurant with only
delicious, simple and cheap local cuisine on the menu: qofte,
qebap, paqë (sour soup), tavë (oven dishes) and suxhuk
shtep (chicken). Find Romantika in the small Ottoman-style
shopping area a few hundred metres from the mosques.
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. € B
Tiffany’s A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani, tel. +381 38 24 40 40.
Astonishing. A restaurant any city would give its right arm for,
Tiffany’s is a wonderfully laid-back canteen-like affair, brimming
Pristina In Your Pocket
with well-heeled locals and foreigners who know a good thing
when they see it. The food is prepared in the restaurant ac-
cording to whatever the chef found at the shops that morning.
With no menu, you’re never quite sure what you’ll get, the
waiter will tell you what options you have. Whatever it is, it’s
bound to be superb. Find the unmarked restaurant on the side
road, opposite the Outback bar, across the car park. Highly
recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00.
€-€€ PLGBXW
Mexican
Cantina am/pm B-3, Rr. Qamil Hoxha 7/1, tel. +377 44
71 07 10, info@cantina-pr.com. Cantina does a good job
of getting the Tex-Mex tacos, chimichanga and biftec Cantina
spicy and tasty enough to convince real Latinos. If guacamole
is not your thing, the cooks can divert to Thai specialities too.
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. €-€€ PBW
Cavallero A-3, Rr. Edit Durham, tel. +377 44 23 42 44.
Importing ingredients directly from Mexico, Cavallero is a
convincingly good restaurant. Have some fajitas, tacos, one
of the vegetarian options of the impressive Ultimate Tower
Combo, washed down with one of five types of Mexican beer.
The homely dining room on the first floor has all the required
Mexicana, and there’s live music on weekend nights. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. €€ PGX
Mexicana B-4, Rr. Abdyl Frasheri 22. Good Mexican
dishes with proper ingredients and heat. Some effort has gone
into the kitsching up of the interior with hats and rugs, and
at weekends the place is livened up by the Mexicana band.
Spicy tacos, enchiladas, fajitas and quesadilla con queso are
all available, as are specials like beefsteak in tequila sauce.
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. €€ VEGS
Nepali
Himalayan Gorkha A-2, Rr. UÇK 17, Qafa Centre,
tel. +377 44 40 22 65/+377 44 19 82 98, himalayan-
gorkha@hotmail.com. It’s a bit of a expedition to find the
modestly-sized and furnished restaurant on the first floor of
the evil Qafa shopping centre, but the food is as authentic
as it comes, with lovely Tibetan chicken and mutton momos
(dumplings), some tandoor and other Indian dishes and
Chinese food from across the Himalayas too. Free delivery
to nearby offices, and take-away. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00.
€-€€ PVS
Serbian
Čao Pristina-Skopje road, tel. +386 49 30 54 70. A family-
run Serbian restaurant with a wonderfully cluttered living room
interior, thick clouds of smoke and large portions of fantastic
Serbian cooking. Here’s your chance to catch up on those pork
dishes that are otherwise so elusive in Pristina. They’re used
to foreigners dropping by and will be glad to explain the Cyrillic
menu and ply you with their lethal home-made brandy till you
fall over. Along the road to Skopje. Q €-€€
Thai
Le Siam Thai A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 21/1, tel. +377 45
24 35 88, lesiamthai@gmail.com. Stylishly designed and
smoke-free, Le Siam has become a real hit for the interna-
tional community in Kosovo. If you are acquainted with Thai
food, you’ll find the typical assortment of curries, salads and
deep fried treats, delivered to good standard. Take-away and
home/hotel delivery too. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€-€€€.
JVGBS
pristina.inyourpocket.com
THE UNIQUE TASTE OF THAI CUISINE IN A
WARM AND COZY ATMOSPHERE
Come and enjoy a fine dining experience in a distinguished, friendly, non-smoking
environment where you will be treated as a very special guest. Let your senses
explore the balance and harmony of Thai exquisite cuisine specially prepared for
you at Le Siam.

Outdoor Terrace - Weekly Special Menu

Take Away - Home Delivery

Open
e Every Day from 11.00 till 23.00
3
21/1 Fehmi Agani, Pristina
Tel: 045 243588
lesiamthai@gmail.com
UÇK Street
Luan Haradinaj

Qafa Gallery

Fe
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24 CAFÉS & NIGHTLIFE
There are enough cafés, bars and clubs in Pristina to keep
all but the most demanding snobs satisfied. The influx of
foreigners has brought with it a few excellent choices, but
even the places frequented by the locals are better than
many you’ll find in some of the bigger Balkan cities. The
great thing about Pristina is that it’s so small you can walk
from bar to bar until you find something you like. Nightlife
is concentrated around Rruga Fehmi Agani and the Pejton
area just south of Rruga Garibaldi, with more studenty
places in the Santea area at the eastern end of Bul. Bill
Clinton. Note that several places listed under Cafés are
also good night spots. Just in case you’d forgotten, Kosovo
is a male-dominated society, and many of the cheaper
bars are frequented entirely by chain-smoking men.
Bars
You know you’ve made it when you are allowed (or can
blag yourself) into the Friday evening drinking sessions in
the UNMIK complex, or in OSCE’s ninth-floor restaurant.
Lesser mortals can avail of a good selection of other bars.
Avenue Bar A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 48, tel. +377 44 45 50
10. A slick and trendy establishment popular with Pristina’s
slick and trendy professionals, the suave ground floor bar is
often packed with good-looking locals, finger food, pasta,
Sinatra tunes and cocktails by the lorry load, whilst the more
subdued cellar is a bright red Oriental den of delight. Owned by
a local musical celebrity, expect live piano music from time to
time. Behind Café e Vogel. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PEBW
Baraka A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani, tel. +377 44 37 50 84. A
no-frills, double-decker summer cottage-style bar popular with
students and the usual collection of sinister-looking middle-
aged men hiding from their families. Décor comes courtesy
of candles in paper bags and the toilet is outside, but if you
can live with the basic requirements then Baraka offers a
fairly convivial atmosphere. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PB
Bistro Bar A-3, Rr. Sejdi Kryeziu, tel. +386 49 540 20
95, odysseabb@hotmail.com. Pristina’s prime cocktail bar
is found deep down a dead-end street in the Pejton area. The
space is bisected by the large bar with a lounge area near the
door and a small restaurant section on the far end. After you’ve
had the waiters serve you the daily special, let the black-clad
baristas perform miracles with the bottled spirits. Also quickly
reached from Rr. George Bush, go down the path beside the
Faik Konica school. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. €€ PAGW
Bukka A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani, tel. +377 44 11 22 00.
Set back from the street amidst a cluster of nightlife venues,
this large wooden shack has lounging space at the front,
backed up by a bar and more seating space. In summer
the terrace with fountain is great for hanging out. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. PBW
Click A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +377 44 93 35 22,
clickbar.prishtina@gmail.com. Firmly aiming at expats,
Click is an English-lite bar with a selection of flags on the walls,
screens for watching football and rugby and fresh English news-
papers. There’s UK beer on tap, a menu of hamburgers, pizza
and salads, and English breakfasts. Drop by on Saturday to hear
the ‘Newborn’ band play. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PEBW
Crème de la Crème A-3, Rr. Mujo Ulqinaku, tel. +377
44 25 99 12/+386 49 22 00 08, www.cremeprishtina.
com. Crème is probably the best all-round bar in the city. It’s
run for the amusement of the young, arty owners and not for
profit, which explains the more-than-generous pricing arrange-
ments, especially for the perfectly executed cocktails. Its five
Pristina In Your Pocket
Cafés
For Kosovans, the difference between a café, a bar, the
local disco and indeed their living rooms or workplaces
is extremely fluid. What may be a quiet place for a cap-
pucino now may be a stomping bar in an hour. Some
cafés listed here are equally good as nightlife spots.
Amélie A/B-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 10, tel. +377 45 58
05 80, amelieespressobar@gmail.com. With a dozen
types of coffee to choose from, as well as tea, hot choc
and other drinks, the three Amélie self-service cafés are
a huge hit in Pristina. Serving lunch as well (see Res-
taurants), they are bright, uncluttered, smoke-free and
visited by all kinds of young locals. Also on Rr. Perandori
Justinian E1 (open 07:00-21:30) and Rr. Agim Ramadani
(corner Rr. Karl Gega; open 07:00-24:00, Sun closed).
QOpen 07:00 - 21:30. € PVGBS
Café e Vogel A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 50, tel. +377
44 13 78 24. Run by a friendly local who spent years
in the UK, the ‘small café’ is a very relaxed place for a
coffee, beer and chat. It’s visited by an alternative crowd
of students and foreigners, the two rooms have sofa and
ottoman seating, and even when busy it’s not too smoky.
During daytime, snacks are served, including lokum, fried
batter balls with onion sauce and salad. QOpen 08:30 -
23:30, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. B
Dit’ e Nat’ B-2, Rr. Fazli Grajqevci, tel. +386 49 25
63 62, info@ditenat.com. ‘Day and night’ is Kosovo’s
first book café, and a good one at that. Apart from a
wide variety of English-language books and magazines,
there’s good coffee, wine, snacks and free wifi to keep
the laptop lubricated. Although it’s not open till late
at nat’, the atmosphere is relaxed and may have you
lingering for hours. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 -
18:00. TBW
Elzar A-3, Rr. Perandori Justinian 17, tel. +377
44 47 74 07. One of the nicer lounge cafés along this
well-caffeined street - Elzar is a converted villa with sleek
furnishings and garden seating all around. An international
selection of food is served too. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. €-€€ PBW
Ma Belle A-2, Rr. Luan Haradinaj. This “Coffee and
Cake House” does an excellent job of serving various
delicious types of cake to the masses, along with good
coffee. There’s also a menu including anything from pasta
and salads to Asian dishes. Outlet at the Albi Mall too.
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
ODA A-2/3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, Pallati i Rinisë
111, tel. +381 38 24 65 55, oda@teatrioda.com,
www.teatrioda.com. Hang out with real artists at
the ODA Theatre’s small underground café. There’s
a librar y corner with ar t books, novels and other
materials for visitors to browse, and free wifi too. Find
the entrance behind the Duplex club. QOpen 09:00
- 24:00. LW
Syri i Kaltër B-3, Bul. Nëne Tereza, tel. +377 44 20
92 92. It’s back to the 1950s at the ‘blue eyes’ café.
The large space isn’t exactly intimate, with just some
instruments hung on the walls as decoration, but at the
back there are counters with smiley staff serving coffee
and sweet sticky cakes. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. € B
pristina.inyourpocket.com

tiny floors heave on Fridays and Sundays with Pristina’s cool
to the variety of beats. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Thu, Sun. Open Wed, Fri, Sat 20:00-03:00.
Mollëkuqja A-2, Rr. Mig jeni, tel. +377 44 14 39 90,
fugomollëkuqja@hotmail.com. A distinctively local and not
unpleasant bar frequented by a fairly smart after-work crowd
of young professionals and the occasional local character.
Features include a big stone bar, abstract art on the walls,
ice-cold bottled beer and decent espresso. The Albanian-only
menu isn’t going to win any cookery awards, but they do a
very good thin crust pizza. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. € PAW
Morena A-4, Bul. Bill Clinton 8, tel. +377 44 11 51 16.
Boasting dozens of cocktails including a mintless mojito, wireless
internet, jazz on Sunday evenings plus F1 and Champions League
on the television, Morena is a breath of fresh air indeed. The place
is generally packed out in the evenings with a pleasant, young
professional crowd. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PEGBXW
Publicco A-3, Rr. Garibaldi 7, tel. +377 44 62 69 27/+377
44 14 70 20, www.gizzigroup.com. A stylish and relaxed bar
featuring black and red steel, stone walls and very friendly staff.
Chocaholics can slurp their way through 11 types of hot chocolate;
serious drinkers can focus on the good cocktails and coffee - which
is also available to go. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00.
Strip Depot A/B-2, Rr. Rexhep Luci 6/1, tel. +381 38
22 28 88, www.stripdepot.com. There’s nothing lewd
about the Strip Depot, lads, in fact it’s one of Pristina’s most
pleasant nightlife spots. The classic wallpaper, sofas and
camel seats give the Depot a crash pad atmosphere, and
there’s free wi-fi, relaxed music and comics available for the
30-ish crowd to browse. Yugoslav-era comics in Albanian and
Serbian are for sale too. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30. PBW
The Cuban A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +377 45 62
06 20. Pristina’s latest ‘place to be’ is a decent addition
to the city’s drinking scene, even if the place can be full of
spivs and tarts who aren’t going to a fancy-dress party. The
Cuban-themed décor is decadent Havana, the food is average
and not very Caribbean, but the cocktails are good. Come
on Wednesdays for salsa dancing. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00.
Tingell Tangell A-2/3, Rr. Rexhep Luci, tel. +386 49
88 62 92/+386 49 20 79 97. A bar as you’d find in Berlin’s
grungier districts - filled with mismatched furniture, comfy old
seats and quirky drawings. Join a crowd of students, painters
and other escape artists who come here to smoke and drink.
Wildly imaginative vegetarian lunches are available too. Find it
marooned in the wastelands behind the buildings along Rr. Ha-
radinaj. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. BW
Trafik Galeri A-3, Rr. George Bush, gallerytraffic@hotmail.com.
This place has always been a great late-night drinking den. It’s tiny,
grungy and always busy with a friendly, edgy bunch. After a recent
renovation, Trafik now offers beverages and art, usually produced by
young, talented local artists. Grab a beer, spark up a conversation and
survey some art. Turn down the first steps to the right when walking
south from the Grand Hotel. QOpen 16:00 - 03:00.
Xhoni’s Bar B-4, Rr. Rexhep Mala, tel. +377 44 75
07 20. “Johnny’s” is without doubt a Pristina institution. It’s
small, friendly, smokey, plays excellent soul, disco and classic
rock music from vinyl and is open until the last man or woman
staggers out. Arrive by 23:00 at the weekend to secure a
corner, or even better a seat, if you intend to make a night
of it as it gets incredibly busy. It doesn’t have a name on the
door, but it’s the place with round windows next to the A&A
restaurant. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. I
pristina.inyourpocket.com
CAFÉS & NIGHTLIFE 25
Clubs
Kosovars party like there is no tomorrow, because there
may well not be one. As around or scour Facebook to find
out what’s on. The legendary Spray Club closed in 2010,
but lives on as a party organiser, see www.sprayclub.com
for events.
Cube A-3, Rr. Johan Hahn 2, tel. +377 44 12 45 84. In the
alley off Rruga Garibaldi, you enter the large bar area of Cube.
There’s a terrace on the roof but all the action is downstairs in
the swish club area, where DJs play a mixed styles of music on
Wednesday and weekend nights. Admission for well-dressed,
over-20, non-square people only. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Wed,
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PNBW
Depo A-2, Rr. UÇK, tel. +377 44 24 67 07. A popular club
featuring rap, house and hip-hop music played at combat
volume levels. Find the warehouse door entrance to the club
behind the bars and terraces along Rruga Fehmi Agani. Q
Open Wed, Fri, Sat 22:00-03:00. E
Duplex A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, Pallati i Rinisë 11, tel.
+386 49 54 55 55, www.duplexprishtina.com. You’ll fit
right in with the young and beautiful crowd that descend on
Duplex to enjoy a night of drinking and dancing to DJ music.
The high-ceilinged club has several bars and lounge rooms,
and is especially busy on Wednesday and weekend nights -
call ahead to book a table. Find it behind the American School
of Kosova. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Thu,
Sun. Admission €2-4.
Full House A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, Pallati i Rinisë, tel.
+386 49 38 36 01/+386 49 40 66 66. A large club at
the rear of the Palace of Youth and Sports where local and
international DJs congregate to play house, hip-hop and R&B
to the happy crowds. There’s a good dance floor, modern
laser equipment and wall-sized mirrors in the ladies room.
Q Open Wed, Fri, Sat 23:00-05:00. PEB
Peppermint B-3, Bul. Nëna Tereza, tel. +381 38 55 25
55, info@peppermint-ks.com, www.peppermint-ks.com.
A classy members-only club on the main boulevard. Inside
it’s all smoke, lasers and mirrors, with angels and fish tanks
on the walls. Get invited or contact the club. It’s supposedly
21+ only, though young ‘uns seem to get in too. Sunday is
‘internationals night’, and just a foreign ID card should get you
in. QOpen 23:00 - 04:00.
Bar talk
Where is the nearest bar/club?
Ku ndodhet klubi më i afërt?
I need a... Dua një …
... beer birrë
... wine verë
... cocktail koktel
... cigarette cigare
... lighter shkrepse
... ashtray tabëll duhani
... man burrë
... woman grua
Where can I find a taxi? Ku mund ta gjej një taksi?
You have beautiful eyes. Keni sy të bukur
Your place or mine? Tek ti apo tek unë?
Where I come from, that’s illegal.
Prej nga unë vij kjo është ilegale
Can I have your number? A mund ta kem numrin tënd?
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28 CAFÉS & NIGHTLIFE
Expat activities
New expat arrivals and any other stray foreigners that
find themselves wandering around are welcome to mingle
with Prishtina’s active group of expats.
International Women’s Club
Founded in 2004, the IWC unites expatriate women living
in Kosovo. For 20 euros per year you’re welcome to join
activities such as the Tuesday coffee hour, art classes,
book club, walking group and cultural events. Contact
iwc_pristina@yahoo.com or see http://groups.yahoo.
com/group/iwc_pristina for more information.
Pristina Playgroup International
A free dating service, not for lonely expats but for expat
children, so that the toddlers have somone else to safely
toddle with. More information: http://groups.yahoo.com/
group/pristina_playgroup.
Live music
Hamam Jazz Bar A-2, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +377
44 22 22 89/+381 38 22 22 89, hamampr@gmail.com.
Hamam’s interior decor of stressed concrete, leather and
a mud-slab ceiling would be cutting edge anywhere in the
world . And its nightly jazz performances, well stocked and
tended bar and fine finger food menu - think seafood with
wasabi mayonnaise - makes it the best Pristina has to offer
in terms of upscale venues. Live music starts at 22:00 and
the recently opened venue is promising to stage a wealth
of local and international talent. Next to the XIX restaurant.
QOpen 17:00 - 24:00. Admission €3 after 23:00.
Hard Rockers Club Rr. Ilaz Kodra, tel. +377 44 11 26
46, vraja_fatos@hotmail.com. It’s one of the few places in
Pristina where you can catch regular live acts, and the only place
which caters for those who like their rock served up heavy, or
hard. It’s quite a comfortable place to grab a beer even if you
are not being entertained by long-haired strummers. Q E
Jazz Club 212 A-3/4, Rr. Mbreti Leka Zogu I, 7a, tel.
+377 44 16 72 86, info@212pr.com, www.212pr.com.
A large club hosting a variety of live music events, often Jazz
but on some nights drifting to Latino, R&B or even karaoke.
On weekend nights it’s packed and loud, the way we like it.
The owner likes to take place behind the drums himself now
and then. The small menu of Italian and international dishes
includes peculiar sounding food such as parpadeli with
shpek. Q Open Wed-Sat 22:00-03:00. €-€€ E
Maroon Pub A/B-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 10. A rocking villa-
turned-pub with lots of wood, a large central space for partying
and plenty of seating as well. There’s regular live rock music,
cocktails and whiskeys galore, and pizzas and salads to snack
on. When the rest of Pristina is dead on Wednesday and Thurs-
day nights, Maroon often puts on good live music. QOpen 07:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PEB
Sokoli e Mirusha A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 41, tel. +377 44
78 88 88, sokoliemirusha@hotmail.com. A self-proclaimed
‘gastropub’ on the first floor of a converted house, with a
shabby-chic look attracting the right mix of artists, politicians
and business bobos, and managed by a restaurateur with
experience in London and New York. There’s good food and
drinks, but most importantly there’s daily live music (except
Sunday), with ‘Ballkan Atmosphere’ Mondays and Jazz most
other nights. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00.
€€ PEBW
Pristina In Your Pocket
Zanzibar B-2, Rr. Hajdar Dushi, tel. +377 44 15 21
55, remzimustafa@hotmail.com. An old Pristina expat
favourite, the Zanzibar is a shabby, time-worn basement
bar with a wall of smoke and loud live rock music every
Friday and Saturday. With just one small exit it’s going to
be a Darwinian rush to the doors if anything happens down
there. Find Zanzibar down the steps in the alley. QOpen
19:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. E
Pubs
Filikaqa A-3, Rr. Mujo Ulqinaku 4/1, tel. +381 38 24
42 88/+377 44 78 87 48, info@filikaqa.com, www.
filikaqa.com. Whistle, as it translates from Albanian, offers
a dizzying array of televisions on which to watch your sport of
choice and eat the best burgers in town. Select a booth, ask
the amiable staff to tune into your match and grab a ‘double
decker’ or ‘triple burger’, which look like American fast-food
classics but taste better. Friday night karaoke is a must-see
must-sing event. Q P
Ninety-One A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +381 38 22 19
91, theninetyone@hotmail.com. One of the most popular
pubs in town for the foreign community, with the correct
wooden interior, sports events screened on televisions and
good pub grub. There’s breakfasts, English burgers, rice pud-
ding and the house speciality, beef fajitas. Peja, Fosters and
Guinness can be found on tap, and there are cocktails too,
including mojitos with fresh mint. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 07:00 - 03:00. PBW
Paddy O’Brien’s B-2, Rr. Tring Smajli, tel. +381 38 22
10 70, paddy@paddyobriens.com, www.paddyobriens.
com. Pristina’s only Irish pub serves good Guinness, good
pub grub and plenty of sport on its several big screens placed
around the wood-panelled room. Serving almost as a com-
munity centre for ex-pats, Paddy O’Briens also offers an array
of fun evening and weekend events to entertain its regulars,
including Kosovo’s only pub quiz on Thursdays, as well as
quiet brunches and raucous nights of dancing. Q LW
Wine bars
People’s Bistro & Wine Bar B-3, Rr. Qamil Hoxha
7/1, tel. +381 38 22 44 21/+386 49 30 34 04, bistro.
peoples@gmail.com. A very pleasant wine bar run by people
who know what they’re doing. It serves wines from Kosovo
and abroad together with a limited but quality selection of
international dishes. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun.
PBW
Stock up on smokes at the bazaar
pristina.inyourpocket.com
 WHAT TO SEE 29

Like most Balkan cities, Pristina was a small and dusty mar-
ket town until fairly recently. The city suffered bombing in the City tours
Second World War and again during the 1999 Kosovo crisis,
but unfortunately suffered most damage to its cultural monu- ORTA Rr. Skenderbeu, Deçan, tel. +377 44 39 26
ments due to socialist planning and modern-day neglect. 48/+377 44 65 05 09, ngo.orta@gmail.com. ORTA
In the 1950s, demolition of parts of the old centre took place organises guided Pristina heritage day tours, including a
in the name of building a new socialist city - publications at walk around the mosques, the hamam, the city’s three
the time boasted that “old shop fronts and other shaky old museums and other historical buildings in the centre. A
structures are quickly disappearing to make room for fine drive to Gracanica monastery, the castle at Novo Brdo and
tall, modern-style buildings.” ancient Ulpiana can also be arranged. Ask for price offers.
The lovely little Catholic Church was demolished, as was
the region’s largest covered market, a mosque (which made
way for the Iliria hotel), the synagogue, a hamam bath house 1975. The museum used to have a rich collection of prehis-
and many Ottoman-era houses. The rivers Pristevka and toric objects uncovered in Kosovo - these were all spirited
Vellushka were hidden beneath concrete. This all goes to off to Belgrade just before the troubles started in 1998, and
explain the apparent dearth of charm. hundreds of archeological finds and ethnographic items yet
Despite all this, it’s pleasant to stroll around the former have to be returned. The extensive permanent archaeology
bazaar area, taking in the lively goings-on at the markets or exhibition details life in the region in the Illyrian, Dardanian
watching the mosques fill up at prayer time. and Roman periods with excellent English-language texts, all
accompanied by Philip Glass minimal music. Centre stage is
the 6000 year old Hynesha në Fron (Goddess on a throne)
Museums statue, found at Tjerrtorja in 1956 and returned to Pristina in
Ethnographic Museum (Muzeu Etnolog jik Emin 2002. In front of the building recent history is represented by
Gjiku) B-1, Rr. Iliaz Agushi, museuetnolog jic@gmail. some artillery hardware, while two large Jewish gravestones
com. A lovely traditional 18th century house set in a walled remind of another recent exodus drama. QOpen 09:30 -
complex with several other buildings is the only original build- 17:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
ing left in the old bazaar area. Once owned by Emin Gjiku, a
nickname for Emin Gjinolli, whose family owned the house, Stacion Rr. Zija Prishtina, tel. +381 38 22 25 76, info@
the complex was turned into a museum in 2006. Professional stacion.org, www.stacion.org. The Center for Contem-
guides are at hand to give English-language tours, telling about porary Art Prishtina is the only place in the country with
the traditional architecture typical for the region, and showing regular contemporary art exhibitions and events. QOpen
the separate guest and family parts of the house that are filled 11:00 - 16:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
with exhibits on clothing, birth and burial rituals, handicrafts
and more. The museum sells traditional gifts including white
eggshell plis hats. Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - Ottoman Pristina
17:00. Admission €2.50/0.50. Academy Building B-2, Rr. Nazim Gafurri, tel. +381
38 24 93 03, ashak_pr@hotmail.com, www.ashak.org.
Independence Museum (Kosovo Independence Right next to the clock tower stands another of Pristina’s few
House “Dr. Ibrahim Rugova”) A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani. remaining 19th century Ottoman konak-style private houses.
A small museum about Kosovo’s recent history, set in a It is currently used by the Academy for Sciences and Arts
reconstruction of the two-room house that was used by (Akademia e Shkencave dhe e Arteve, ASHAK) who have
Ibrahim Rugova. Glass cases hold various objects relating to added a rather ugly glass winter garden to the building. If you
the events leading up to Kosovo’s independence, such as ask you can enter to walk around the courtyard.
Rugova’s glasses, typewriter and desk, and the mobile phone
of media advisor Xhemajl Mustafa. The gleaming white marble
floors are slightly incongruous, but the items on display and
especially the grim photos of Pristina in the 1990s get the
message across. Although there are English captions, it’s
best visited with a local who can explain the context and
personalities. There’s a modest bust of the late great Rugova
outside. Find the museum beside the Tiffany’s restaurant.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
Kosova Art Gallery B-3, Rr. Agim Ramadani 60, tel.
+381 38 22 56 27, gak@ipko.org, www.kosovaart.com.
Behind the National Library, this relatively large exhibition
building is made up of two exhibition halls covering almost
500 square metres and showcasing shows of mostly 2D work
by local, and primarily young, artists. Owned and operated
by the Ministry of Culture & Sports, the museum also does
a lot of educational work with young children. In front of the
entrance stands Pristina’s most interesting public artwork - a
constellation of metal beams jutting out over the footpath
like mikado sticks. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00-18:00, Sun
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon.

Kosovo Museum B-2, Sheshi Adam Jashari, tel. +377

44 50 80 55. This pretty ochre-painted villa housing the
Kosovo Museum was built by Austrians for the Turkish army
in 1898, and was used by the Yugoslav national army until Flowers on the main boulevard

pristina.inyourpocket.com Spring - Summer 2011

30 WHAT TO SEE
The clock tower
Bazaar B-1. Pristina’s liveliest area is without doubt the
large bazaar, east of Rruga Ilir Konusheci. Although most of
it was destroyed in the 1950s, it still retains the bustling
atmosphere typical of all Balkan markets. All kinds of goods
are for sale: fruit, vegetables, Albanian flags, cigarettes
(stacked up in walls of cartons), kitchen utensils, car parts,
dodgy mobile phones and more, making for a fascinating
stroll. Many of the friendly traders are returned refugees
and know German, Italian or English, and will be happy to
strike up conversation.
Çarshia Mosque (Xhamia e Çarshisë) B-2, Rr. Meto
Bajraktari. The ‘market mosque’ is Pristina’s oldest building,
constructed in the 15th century by Turkish Sultan Bajazit
to commemorate the 1389 victory. Now no longer part of
the old bazaar complex and no longer in possession of a a
mausoleum, the one-room mosque is marooned in front of
the Kosovo Museum.
Clock Tower (Sahat Kulla) B-2, Rr. Ylfete Humolli.
Every market town in the Ottoman Empire needed a clock
tower so the faithful knew when to pray and shops could all
close and reopen at the same time so that no trader got any
advantage from staying open longer. Pristina’s 19th century,
26-metre high clock tower looks very similar to the one in
Skopje. It was built by Jashar Pasha beside the mosque
bearing his name in the centre of the old bazaar area, and
was made with sandstone and bricks. The original bell, which
originated from Moldova, was stolen in 2001. A new clock was
installed with help of the French KFOR troops, and seeing it
runs on electricity we were quite surprised that it indicated
the correct time on all of its faces when we last checked.
Pristina In Your Pocket
Fatih Mosque (Xhamia e Mbretit) B-1, Rr. Ilir Konu-
shevci. Opposite the clock tower, the Fatih or Imperial Mosque
was built in 1461 under Turkish Sultan Mehmed II Fatih (‘the
conqueror’), as witnessed by the Arabic engraving above the
main door. Inside, painted floral decorations and arabesques
grace the walls and ceiling. Pristina’s grandest building has
a spectacular 15-metre dome resting on support pillars, an
architectural feat at the time of construction. The minaret
is a reconstruction after the original was damaged during
an earthquake in 1955. The mosque was briefly turned into
a church during the Austro-Turkish wars from 1690-1698.
During Friday payers, the congregation spreads out into the
courtyard and even onto the street to pray.
Great Hamam (Hamami i Madh) B-1, Rr. Ilir Konush-
evci. Near the Fatih Mosque, Pristina’s grandest remaining
bath complex was in a sorry state of repair after decades of
neglect. it is currently undergoing much-needed restoration,
but this being Kosovo it’s become another scandal with ac-
cusations of shoddy workmanship. Built in 1470 the public
baths form a symmetrical pair of baths within one complex,
one for men and women each. The complex is graced with
15 domes, with small holes to let light stream in. Ask the
workers if you can have a peek inside.
Jashar Pasha Mosque B-2, Rr. Ylfete Humolli. Beside
the Academy building, this 16th century mosque (completed
much later in the 19th century) is similar to the Carsi Mosque
in architecture and interior decoration. The original portico
was demolished to make way for a wider road.
Kocadishi House (Kosovo Institute for the Protec-
tion of Monuments) B/C-2, Rr. Zenel Salihu. About
150m southeast of the clock tower, this reconstructed
house that once belonged to the Kocadishi family represents
a typical Ottoman 19th century merchant’s home, with an
overhanging first floor, veranda, high walls around the pe-
rimeter and strictly separated areas within the compound
for business and family affairs. The Kosovo Institute for the
Protection of Monuments now uses the building; call ahead
if you are interested in viewing the interior.
Pirinaz Mosque (Xhamia e Pirinazit) C-2, Rr. Ismail
Dunoshi. Built in the second half of the 16th century, the
Pirinaz Mosque was founded by the Ottoman Vizier Piri Nazir.
Legend has it that the ‘Stone of Lazar’ in the garden was used
to behead Prince Lazar during the Battle of Kosovo in 1389, and
that he was buried in this mosque with the Sultan’s permission
before being moved to Ravanici Monastery in central Serbia.
Shadërvani Fountain B-2, Rr. Nazim Gafurri. The
elegant marble shadërvani fountain or water well, just be-
hind the Çarshia Mosque, is one of the last remaining public
watering holes in Pristina. Despite the busy road nearby, it’s
still used as a place for old men to sit and chat.
Pristina heritage map
The Pristina Heritage map on the next page is kindly
provided by IKS (www.iksweb.org), an independent non
profit NGO focusing on socio-economic research in
Kosovo and the region. In partnership with ESI, European
Stability Initiative, IKS has done research into Pristina’s
development and published a discussion paper (available
online) on the city’s threatened cultural heritage, and is
starting a cultural heritage awareness raising campaign
amongst both locals and foreign visitors. The map can
be downloaded on the website.
pristina.inyourpocket.com
32 WHAT TO SEE
Gračanica Monastery
Gračanica Monastery (Manastir Gračanica)
Gračanica. The monastery in the village of Gračanica,
a short drive south of Pristina, is one of Kosovo’s best
religious monuments. Completed in 1321 and built by the
legendary king of Serbia, Milutin Nemanjic, the Serbian
Orthodox monastery church represents the height of
Serbian Byzantine tradition. Its real beauty is hidden
within, where several distinct periods of fresco painting
are extremely well preserved, depicting the early life of
Jesus as well as the representations of the ecclesiasti-
cal calendar and a terrifying Day of Judgement. The
monastery is guarded by police who may require to see
your ID. To get there from Pristina, take the bus to Gjilan,
which passes through the town after 15 minutes. Note
that Gračanica is a Serb enclave that sometimes is the
focus of unrest, and some embassies warn against visit-
ing. QOpen 06:00 - 17:00. Admission free.
Yugoslav Pristina
Christ the Saviour Cathedral B-3, Sheshi Hasan
Prishtina. A folly of Serbian nationalist aspirations, the
Serbian Othodox Cathedral is the unfinished, hulking brick
shell of a church on Sheshi Hasan Prishtina, the field beside
the national library. Started in 1995, it was supposed to
be finished in 1999. During the war and since it has been
the focus of attacks, graffiti and vandalism, yet it remains
standing and protected by the UN’s principles and barbed
wire. Nobody can use or change the Cathedral without the
permission of the Serbian Orthodox Church - who still demand
must be completed.
Monument of Brotherhood and Unity B-2, Rr.
Meto Bajraktari. These three 15-metre high columns
joining near the top symbolise the ‘unity and brotherhood’
(a favourite Yugoslav slogan) of the the three peoples
of Kosovo (Albanians, Serbs and Montenegrins). The
overgrown bottom end of the monument is surrounded
by rusting barbed wire, and you can just about see the
inscription 1961 on the rotting base of the pillars. Nearby,
a more interesting metal statue of a group of faceless
people watches on. The sad square it’s on was once the
bustling heart of the bazaar, which got demolished in the
name of progress.
Pristina In Your Pocket
National Library B-3, Sheshi Hasan Prishtina, tel. +381
38 24 96 50, www.biblioteka-ks.org. Unleashed on a bewil-
dered public in 1982, Pristina’s extraordinary National Library
was designed by the Croatian architect Andrija Mutnjakovic.
The outside of the mammoth 16,500 square metre space-age
building features a total of 99 white glass cupolas of different
sizes and is entirely covered in a metal fishing net. Simultane-
ously gorgeous and absurd, the library was once home to a
huge depository of Albanian literature, much of which, thanks to
the enlightened leadership of Slobodan Milosovic, was turned
into cardboard in the early 1990s. The equally beguiling interior
which has some photos of old Pristina still contains over 5,000
fine examples of old and rare books and manuscripts, dating
back to the 16th century. The library also holds many foreign
titles, and membership is open to anyone.
National Martyr’s Monument (Varrezat e Dësh-
morëve) C-3, Rr. Rrustem Statovci. Topping the Park
of Martyrs at the top of Velania, the Yugoslav-era Martyr’s
Monument honours the partisans that died during the libera-
tion of the region in World War II. The monument consists of
a platform with a metal globe shape on a stick, surrounded
by several concrete shells sticking out of the ground. Ignored
and vandalised, it has a haunting beauty.
Palace of Youth & Sports (Pallati i Rinisë dhe i Sport-
eve) A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +381 38 24 94 24, www.
pallatirinise.com. The massive complex from 1977-1981 is an
unmissable and spikey Pristina landmark, and a nice example of
Yugoslav-era city planning. The youth centre has an assembly
hall, disco, concert and sports halls and a Pioneer’s centre - now
catering to children without any additional brainwashing. The
bearded man depicted on the building is local hero Adem Jashari,
a UÇK commander who was killed in 1998 together with some
50 others, including nearly his entire family.
Parks
Gërmia Park Rr. Nazim Gafurri. In the hills just east of
town, this large park at the end of bus lines N°4,5 and 9 has
a popular open-air swimming pool that’s the size of a lake,
and endless forests to ramble through - though you should
stick to the paths which are landmine-free. Skiing is possible
here in winter too, though there are no special facilities. Q
Admission free, cars €1.
Parku i Qytetit (City Park) C-2/3, Rr. Hmez Jashari.
East the the centre, the city park is a pleasant, cleaned-up
area with concrete paths, trees and places to sit and play
chess in the shade.
Parku i Taukbahqes C-2, Rr. Nazim Gafurri. A pretty
park just a short walk east of the bazaar area. The old, tall
trees create plenty of pleasant shady spots in summer, and
colourful foliage in autumn.
Parku Varrezat e Dëshmorëve (Park of Martyrs)
C-3, Rr. Isa Kastrati. The grassy hilltop in the Velania area is
not much of a park, but still well worth visiting for the Martyr’s
Monument, Rugova’s and several KLA graves and the great
views over the city and the mountains beyond.
Other sights
Archaeological Park Rr. Agim Ramadani. Pristina’s new
archaeological park has exhibits on ancient Kosovo, Roman-
era tombs and parts of the Mosaic of Gllamnik. There’s an
amphitheatre for summertime theatre and film shows. Near
the Kosovo Museum, on the corner of Rruga Haxhi Zeka. Q
Open March-October.
pristina.inyourpocket.com

Catholic Cathedral (Mother Teresa Cathedral) A-4,
Rr. George Bush. Pristina’s new cathedral, unofficially named
after the famous ethnic Albanian nun, is a welcome addition
to city’s skyline. Built in new-renaissance Italianate style, its
two campanile towers will reach 70 metres once completed,
but building work appears to have slowed down since the
venue’s consecration in September 2010. Some €1 million
was raised for the building by the Albanian diaspora. While
the building is open to public, remember it’s still a building
site so say your prayers before entering.
Clinton Billboard & Statue A-4, Bul. Bill Clinton.
Kosovo’s favourite superhero is honoured with a large
billboard overlooking the boulevard named after him. Right
below, a three metre high bronze statue of Bill Clinton was
unveiled in 2009, showing the love affair is still fresh. The
statue, depicting Bill waving and clutching the 1999 agree-
ment that permitted US troops to enter Kosovo, was paid
for by the ‘Friends of the USA’ association who didn’t get
permission to put it anywhere else in the city. It’s a welcome
addition to the grey boulevard.
Jewish Cemetery Tauk Bahqe hill. The 19th century
Jewish Cemetery on top of Velania’s Tauk Bahqe dates from
the time that Pristina’s Jewish community numbered some
1500 souls. It holds about 50 tombstones which are now
overgrown with weeds. After 500 years of presence in Pristina
since their immigration from Spain in 1492, the Jewish com-
munity that remained after the deportations of World War II
was forced to leave in June 1999 and resettled in Belgrade.
Mother Teresa statue B-3, Bul. Nëne Tereza. A small
and humble statue of Mother Teresa, a nun of ethnic Albanian
origin (born in Skopje in what is now Macedonia) who devoted
her life to the poor in India. The fountain around the statue
is sadly crumbling - and rumours have it that a new, bigger
statue of the tiny lady will be erected in front of the new
cathedral to replace this one.
Newborn Monument A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj. Missing
a central rallying point in the heady days of the declaration of
independence in February 2008, some cleverclogs designed
these seven huge yellow steel letters spelling out the word
‘newborn’ that was placed in front of the Palace of Youth and
Sports. The three metre high letters were quickly covered
in autographs and texts, scribbled by thousands of people
starting with the PM and president.
Photos of the missing B-2, Bul. Nëne Tereza. A poignant
reminder of the Kosovo crisis, the gates at the northern end
of the boulevard have dozens of photos of Kosovans who
have been missing since the conflict; nearly 1,900 people
remain unaccounted for.
Rugova’s Grave C-3, Park of Martyrs. Half a million
people turned out for the funeral procession of the former
president of Kosovo, Ibrahim Rugova, who died of lung cancer
on January 21, 2006. The chain-smoking, ‘Gandhi of the Bal-
kans’ was a writer who entered politics in the late 1980s and
helped set up the Democratic League of Kosovo (LDK). Initially
a hero for his passive resistance to Serbian rule, Rugova lost
credibility after the 1995 Dayton Agreement, but made a
comeback and became president in 2002. He lies buried at
the top of the Parku Varrezat e Dëshmorëve (Park of Martyrs).
Skanderbeg statue B-2, Bul. Nëne Tereza. The monu-
ment of Skanderbeg, or Gjerg j Kastrioti Skenderbeu, stands
proudly at the top end ofBul. Nëne Tereza, paying homage to
the Albanian superhero who brilliantly fought off the Ottomans
for decades in the fifteenth century. Brightly lit at night and
pristina.inyourpocket.com
WHAT TO SEE 33
surrounded by a small plaza, the pedestal seems formed by
a plis, the traditional Albanian egg-shell hat. The statue was
designed by Albanian artist Janaq Paco in 2001. Unfortunately,
amateur graffiti artists, vandals and poor maintenance have
done much to damage the statue.
St. Nicholas Church C-1, Rr. Shkodra. The only active
Serbian Orthodox church in Pristina was badly damaged by
fire during the 2004 riots, but was rebuilt and now services
are once more held in the low 17th century building. Q The
church can be visited most days around 17:00.
Union Hotel building B-2, Bul. Nëne Tereza. Built in
1927, the two-storey former Union Hotel next to the National
Theatre is a typical early 20th century eclectic building that’s
admired for its dainty decorations. It’s arguably the pretties
building in the city, yet authorities let it stand derelict and
half empty for years before a homeless man living in it set it
on fire in 2009, causing great damage. In 2011, the dispute
is still ongoing.
Zahir Pajaziti statue A/B-3, Bul. Nëne Tereza. Op-
posite the Grand Hotel, this statue commemorates Zahir
Pajaziti (1962-1997), a UCK fighter based in the Llapi area.
He was killed in action and is now considered one of the
biggest patriots during the Kosovo crisis - you’ll always see
fresh flowers at the statue.
Around town
Novo Brdo tel. +377 44 46 54 71, rural.tourism.nb@
gmail.com, www.tourism-novobrdo.com. 40km east of
Pristina, Novo Brdo (Novobërde in Albanian) has rural charm,
hiking, biking, lavish traditional meals, strawberry picking,
guesthouses and a whopping big castle ruin in lovely hilly
surroundings. Silver mining started here in ancient times,
though decline from the 17th century means the castle and
the original town on a plateau just below it are picturesquely
ruined. Call Fadil Llapashtica at the tourist office in advance
to arrange bike rental, a home-made organic meal at one of
the farmhouses or to stay the night at one of 5 simple rural
guesthouses.
Ulpiana (Fontana Ulpiane) Rr. Imzot Nikprelaj, Ul-
piana. The important Roman city of Ulpiana was built near
the silver and lead mines that made Kosovo so important at
the time. Remains of roads and public and religious buildings
have been found, though you need to apply a lot of imagina-
tion to envisage the way it looked. Apart from a complex of
low walls and foundations, a few restored 4th-6th century
graves can be visited at the city necropolis. Ulpiana’s ruins
lie halfway along the road between Gračanica and Laplje Selo.
Q Admission free.
Out of Pristina
The second edition of the Bradt
Kosovo guidebook was published
in late 2010 and holds a wealth of
information for those venturing out
of Pristina for the day or on longer
trips. The guide is especially valuable
for hiking and other outdoor activities
in Kosovo’s western mountains and
for visiting cultural heritage in his-
torical towns and villages across the
country. Available from the Dukagjini
bookshop or at www.bradt.co.uk.
Spring - Summer 2011
34 GAZIMESTAN
Gazimestan tower © Greta Howard
A short trip from Pristina, two memorials remind the visitor
of a gruesome battle that took place on Kosovo's plains
over 600 years ago.
Gazimestan
"Whoever is a Serb and of Serb birth, and of Serb blood and
heritage, and comes not to fight at the Battle of Kosovo, may
he never have the progeny his heart desires!” starts the 1845
nationalist adaptation of the so-called Kosovo curse. And
while latter-day science may question the site’s birth control
powers, the site of the famous Battle of Kosovo, just 10km
from Pristina, may be architecturally uninspiring but it remains
a must-see for those interested in the history of the region.
The Gazimestan memorial tower stands in the fields where,
in the summer of 1389, the Ottoman Empire clashed with the
Serbian medieval kingdom, involving many tens of thousands
of troops. Almost every aspect of the Battle of Kosovo is
contested. While Serbs mark the clash on June 28, St Vitus
Day, most believe it actually took place on June 15. And while
Serbs often describe the battle as their empire’s defining
defeat at the hands of the Ottomans, it was probably more of
a draw. Less contentious is the fact that both Serbian Prince
Lazar and Sultan Murat, leader of the Ottomans, died in the
battle, along with thousands of others. Both men are thus
commemorated at the site. The battle, to this day, plays an
essential part in Serbian nationalist narrative, reinforcing the
national identity as a bastion against the orient and Islam.
Built to the not-so-dizzying height of 25 metres, Gazimestan
tower nonetheless provides excellent views across the
plain of Kosovo. The tower was erected in 1953 on a raised
platform, surrounded by some bizarre concrete chimneys. At
the front is the inscription of the Kosovo curse, supposedly
written by Prince Lazar, the Serbian leader killed on the
battlefield on 1389, but first put to paper by the nationalist
poet Vuk Karadzic. The tower not only marks the location
of the legendary battle: in 1989, it was also the location for
Slobodan Milosevic’s most notorious speech marking the
battle’s 600th anniversary, which many historians consider
pivotal in the collapse of Yugoslavia.
Take the winding staircase up to the top platform to admire
the view and consult an ornamental map of how the Battle of
Kosovo panned out. You can admire the mountains separating
Kosovo and Serbia, the suburban edges of Pristina and even the
hulking monstrosities that are Kosovo A and B, the country’s
power plants spewing out toxic smoke. It may sound a little
underwhelming, but in the right light it can be spectacular.
Just down the hill from the tower stands the small Bajraktar
Türbe, a monument for Sultan Murat's standard bearer, now
an important place of worship for the Sadije dervish order.
Pristina In Your Pocket
Practicalities
Both sites are along the main road north from Pristina
to Mitrovica, around 10km from the city. As you climb to
the crest of the first hill, you will spot the tower 400m off
the road to the right. At time of research the main road
was a mess as it is being transformed, slowly, into a
highway, and there are no signs pointing to the tower or
tomb. Take the first available to the right after you spot
the tower and follow the dirt track next to an unfinished
warehouse until you reach the parking by the security
gate. You will need some form of identity to show the
disinterested Kosovo Police officers, who recently took
over providing security from Kosovo’s NATO force, KFOR.
Plans are afoot to open an information centre here and
provide a multilingual guide.
Sultan Murat’s Türbe is 1600 metres further north along
the main road. Keep your eyes peeled for the small
domed building, 200m to the left.
It’s an easy trip by car or taxi (visiting both spots should
cost around €12), but you can also grab a bus to Mitrovica
and ask the driver to drop you at the main road close to
either spot. Buses run every 15 minutes all week and
can be picked up at the main bus station, tickets should
cost you €0.50. Simply flag down a passing bus to get
to the next site, or back to town.
Sultan Murat’s Türbe
Across the main road, you will find Sultan Murat's Türbe,
or mausoleum. Through an arched stone gate is a little
complex renovated in recent years with Turkish funds. The
fine stone mausoleum houses a large tomb which doesn’t
actually contain the remains of Sultan Murat – they have
been moved to the imperial museum in Bursa, Turkey. The
building, constructed in the 1850s, is pleasant enough, but
there is little to see inside. Perhaps the most notable sight
is the 700-year-old mulberry tree beside it, one of the few
survivors from the battle. You are likely to encounter the
keepers of the tomb on your trip. A man-and-wife team
has been looking after the building for generations, and the
current incumbents are Sanija and Fahri Türbedari.
Sultan Murat’s tomb © Ivan Abrams
pristina.inyourpocket.com
 GETTING AROUND 35

Kosovo is a tiny country, and getting around is

often surprisingly fast, sometimes agonisingly Flight schedule
slow. Entering from the surrounding countries is From Pristina To Pristina
very simple, even from Serbia - though be careful Days Dep. Arr. City Days Dep. Arr.
to read the travel information in the Glossary. ---4--- 19:00 21:10 BASEL (U2) ---4--- 16:10 18:20
-----6- 20:30 22:40 BASEL (U2) -----6- 17:40 19:50
Airport & Airlines -----6- 13:20
1234567 15:05
15:45 BERLIN (4U) -----6-
16:50 BUDAPEST (MA) 1234567 12:55
10:10 12:35
14:30
Pristina International Airport (PRN) tel. ––––––7 11:00 14:00 COLOGNE (4U) ––––––7 07:20 10:20
+381 38 595 81 23, www.airportpristina. –––––6– 13:10 16:00 COPENHAGEN (SK) –––––6– 09:15 12:10
com. Pristina’s ‘Adem Jashari’ international airport ––3––6– 09:00 11:15 DUESSELDORF (AB) ––3––6– 12:00 14:20
is 18km southwest of the city. Getting there takes --3--6- 19:45 22:40 DUSSELDORF (ST) --3--6- 09:55 12:45
about 30 minutes; a taxi ride will cost about €25. ------7 04:50 07:30 DUSSELDORF (XL) ------7
-----6- 07:45 10:25 DUSSELDORF (XL) -----6- 17:50 20:35
There’s a 24hr airport bus service, theoretically --3---- 17:50 20:35 DUSSELDORF (XL) --3---- 08:05 10:45
departing every two hours from outside the Grand -----6- 10:30 13:00 FRANKFURT (AB) -----6- 07:15 09:45
Hotel; tickets cost €3 and are bought on the bus. --3--6- 09:00 11:20 GENEVA (4T) --3--6- 05:55 08:15
The European flag-carriers are the main players --3---- 08:55 11:10 GENEVA (U2) --3---- 06:00 08:15
here, and can be relied on to depart on time - -----6- 19:35 21:45 GENEVA (U2) -----6- 16:45 18:55
for all other flights it’s a good idea to phone in -----6- 14:55 17:10 GENEVA (WK) -----6- 12:00 14:10
advance to confirm. Inside the main terminal is a -----6- 17:50 20:40 HAMBURG (AB) -----6- 07:40 10:20
post office (open 08:00-15:00) where you can buy -----6- 11:05 13:35 HANNOVER (AB) -----6- 14:30 17:00
SIM cards and make phone calls; some souvenir 1234567 14:35 15:50 ISTANBUL (TK) 1–3–5–– 12:00 13:30
shops and a café with photos of old Kosovo. After 1----5-- 05:25 06:50 ISTANBUL (TK) ---4--7 22:15 23:45
1234567 05:00 06:30 LJUBLJANA (JP) 1234567 00:00 01:20
customs, there’s the Runway duty-free shop (see
1234567 15:45 16:25 LJUBLJANA (JP) 1234567 13:15 15:00
Shopping). 1–3–5–– 17:30 20:30 LONDON (BA) 1–3–5–– 13:15 16:15
–––––6– 19:55 22:55 LONDON (BA) –––––6– 15:50 18:50
Adria (JP) B-3, Rr. Qamil Hoxha 12, tel. -----6- 19:15 21:20 MUNICH (ST) -----6- 16:15 18:30
+381 38 24 67 46, fax +381 38 24 67 47, 1234567 06:45 07:30 PODGORICA (YM) 1234567 19:45 20:30
eticketprn@adria.si, www.adria-airways.com. ------7 08:30 10:45 STUTTGART (4U) ------7 05:35 07:50
Flights to Ljubljana. ––3––6– 13:25 15:35 STUTTGART (4U) ––3––6– 10:30 12:45
Air Berlin (AB) Rr. Vellusha e Poshtme 17, ––3––6– 12:45 14:10 STUTTGART (ST) ––3––6– 09:50 12:00
tel. +381 38 50 20 62, www.airberlin.com. --3---- 11:30 13:55 STUTTGART (XL) --3---- 14:40 17:05
Flights to Duesseldorf, Frankfurt, Hannover, Mu- -----6- 16:55 19:15 STUTTGART (XL) -----6- 20:20 22:40
nich, Geneva, Zurich etc. 1234567 10:30 11;00 TIRANA (LZ) 1234567 19:00 19:30
–2––567 11:40 13:00 VERONA (IG) –2––567 13:45 15:05
Austrian Airlines (OS) A-2, Rr. Luan Hara- 1–3–5–– 07:00 08:40 VIENNA (OS) –2–4––7 19:15 21:45
dinaj 27 (AltaVia Travel), tel. +381 38 54 35 1234567 16:35 17:15 VIENNA (OS) 1234567 13:20 15:45
43, fax +381 38 24 35 17, info@altaviatravel. 1––4–6– 06:30 08:00 ZAGREB (OU) ––3–5––7 21:15 22:45
com, www.austrian.com. Flights to Vienna. –––4––– 17:45 19:15 ZAGREB (OU) –––4––– 15:30 17:00
Belle Air (LZ) A-2, Rr. Luan Haradinaj 4/1, –2––––7 18:15 19:45 ZAGREB (OU) –2––––7 16:00 17:30
tel. +381 38 22 55 70, fax +381 38 22 55 12-45-7 09:45 11:55 ZURICH (4T) 12-45-7 06:15 08:30
72, belleair.kosova@flybelleair.com, www. --3--6- 15:20 17:30 ZURICH (4T) --3--6- 12:25 14:35
belleair.it. Budget flights to Tirana and several 1234567 09:55 12:05 ZURICH (ED) 1234567 08:55 09:05
cities in Italy, Germany and Belgium. 1234567 09:30 11:30 ZURICH (LX) 1234567 06:30 08:30
British Airways (BA) Pristina Airport, tel. Flight schedule correct at time of research, though travellers are
+381 38 54 86 61, www.ba.com. Flights to advised to check all flight times in advance.
London Gatwick. Airline codes: 4R = Hamburg International Airlines, 4T = Belair, 4U =
Croatia Airlines (OU) A-2, Rr. Luan Haradi- Germanwings, AB = AirBerlin, BA = British Airways, IG = Meridiana, JP
naj 27, Alta Via Travel, tel. +381 38 23 38 33, = Adria Airways, LZ = Belle Air, LX = Swiss MA = Malev, OS = Austrian
croatia@altaviatravel.com, www.croatiaair- Airlines, OU = Croatia Airlines, ST = Germania, TK = Turkish Airlines, U2
lines.com. Flights to Zagreb. = EasyJet, YM = Montenegro Airlines
Edelweiss (ED) Bul. Nëna Tereza 23, tel.
+381 38 54 84 33, www.edelweissair.ch. Flights to
Zurich and Geneva. Driving & Car rental
Germanwings (4U) tel. +381 38 24 91 85, www. Kosovo’s main roads are in a good state and not too busy
germanwings.com. Budget flights to Cologne and Stuttgart. outside the towns, but stick to daytime trips unless you’re a
Lufthansa (LH) A-2, Rr. Luan Haradinaj 27 (AltaVia confident driver, as unlit roads in combination with unreliable
Travel), tel. +381 38 54 35 43, fax +381 38 24 35 17, signposting and oncomers’ faulty headlights can be fatal.
www.lufthansa.com. Flights to Duesseldorf. The maximum speeds are 35km/hr in urban areas, 60km/
Malev (MA) A-4, Bul. Bill Clinton 12 (InterTravel Club), hr on main roads and 80km/hr on highways. Drivers must
tel. +381 38 53 55 35, info@itclub.cc, www.malev.com. officially use headlights at all times, have a yellow vest and
Flights to Budapest. first aid kit in the car, and snow chains in winter. Parking in
Montenegro Airlines (YM) A-3, Rr. Robert Doll 41, Pristina is free, but don’t risk parking where it’s not allowed.
tel./fax +381 38 61 01 11, www.montenegroairlines.
com. Flights to Podgorica. Europcar Lag jia e Emshirit, tel./fax +381 38 54 14 01,
SAS Scandinavian Airlines (SK) tel. +45 70 10 20 tel. +381 38 59 41 01 (airport), info@europcar-ks.com,
00, www.flysas.com. Flights to Copenhagen. www.europcar-ks.com. Their city office is located 200m
Swiss (LX) A-3, Bul. Nëna Tereza, tel. +381 38 24 34 south of the bus station, along the road to Skopje.
46, www.swiss.com. Flights to Zurich. Hertz C-4, Bul. Nëna Tereza, tel. +381 38 54 44
Turkish Airlines (TK) A-4, Rr. Mujo Ulqinaku, tel. +381 80/+377 44 11 78 82, fax +381 38 54 44 90, hertz@
38 50 20 52, www.turkishairlines.com. Flights to Istanbul. albaniaonline.net, www.hertz.com. Also at Pristina airport.

pristina.inyourpocket.com Spring - Summer 2011

36 GETTING AROUND

Language Long-distance buses

Buses in Kosovo run frequently, are reasonably fast, clean
Albanian is Kosovo’s main language – though you’ll find English and good value. Pristina’s bus station serves all Kosovo and
and Serbian translations on all official signs in Kosovo. German international destinations.
and sometimes English is widely spoken by the many refugees
who returned to Kosovo after a few years in western Europe. Buses from Pristina to PEJA (€4) depart at 07:30, 08:00
The names of cities in Kosovo as well as all other Albanian and then every 20 minutes until 20:00, taking 1 hour 30
nouns have two different endings. One is definite (Pejë), the minutes. Buses to GJAKOVA (€4) depart every half hour
other indefinite (Peja, or ‘the Peje’). Even when the names between 08:00 and 20:00, taking 1 hour 30 minutes.
appear in English text, translators don’t agree on which version Buses to PRIZREN (€4) depart at 06:50, 07:20, 08:00
to use. Add a dash of Serbian (Peć), and such ordinary pursuits and then every 30 minutes until 20:00, taking 1 hour 30
as driving from a to b all of sudden become confusing to say minutes. Buses to MITROVICA (€1.50) depart evert 15
the least. The word Kosovo incidentally is the English spelling. minutes between 06:30 and 20:00, taking 30 minutes to
Locals use Kosova (and of course Kosovë). get there. Buses to GJILAN (€2) via GRACANICA depart
at 06:30, 07:20 and then every 20 minutes until 20:20,
Pronunciation taking 30 minutes to get there. Buses to FERIZAJ (€2)
a as in father ë as in term nj as in new depart at 06:45, 07:45, 08:00 and then every 15 minutes
c as in pizza gj as in dodge q as check until 20:30, taking 45 minutes.
ç as in church i as in machine r as in rope
dh as in that j as in year rr is a rolled r Pristina Bus Station (Stacioni i autobusave) Rr.
e as in set II as in still xh as in judge Lidja e Pejes, tel. +381 38 55 00 11. The bus station is
a fairly dismal affair, 2km southwest of the city centre, near
Niceties & Necessities the end of Bul. Bill Clinton. To get there you’ll need a taxi as
Yes Po there’s no public transport from the centre, though be sure
No Jo to refuse the €1 car park fee for being dropped off. Left lug-
Good Mirë gage services are provided by the shefi I narimit office (open
Please Ju lutem 06:00-20:00, €1/day).
Thank you Faleminderit
Sorry! Më fal
Good morning Mirëmëngjes
Good day
Hello
Mirdita
Tung
International bus schedule
Good night Natën e mirë
From Pristina
Good luck with your work! Punë e mbarë!
Dep. Arr. City Price Comment
Cheers! Gëzuar!
11:00 17:00 BELGRADE €10-15 Except Sat.
All the best! Gjitha të mirat! 22:00 04:00 BELGRADE €10-15
Excuse me! Më falni! 22:30 05:30 BELGRADE €10-15
How are you? Si jeni? 23:00 05:00 BELGRADE €10-15
17:45 23:00 PODGORICA* €10-15
Practicalities 19:00 00:30 PODGORICA* €10-15
When? Kur? 05:30 07:00 SKOPJE €5
Now Tani 06:00 07:30 SKOPJE €5
Where? Ku? 06:30 08:00 SKOPJE €5
Here Këtu 07:25 09:00 SKOPJE €5 Except Sun.
There Atje 07:55 09:30 SKOPJE €5 Except Sun.
Who? Kush? 09:00 10:30 SKOPJE €5 Except Sun.
Why? Pse? 10:00 11:30 SKOPJE €5 Except Sun.
What? Çfarë? 10:30 11:00 SKOPJE €5
I have... Kam... 11:30 13:00 SKOPJE €5
I am... Jam... 12:30 14:00 SKOPJE €5
What’s your name? Si quheni? 14:30 16:00 SKOPJE €5
My name is... Quhem... 15:00 16:30 SKOPJE €5
I’m from... Une jam nga... 15:30 17:00 SKOPJE €5
...UK ...Anglia 17:00 18:30 SKOPJE €5
...USA ...Amerika 06:30 09:30 TETOVA €5-10
I don’t understand Nuk kuptoj 07:15 10:15 TETOVA €5-10
I don’t speak Albanian Nuk flas shqip 10:00 13:00 TETOVA €5-10
A ticket, please Një biletë, ju lutem 13:00 16:00 TETOVA €5-10
How much does this cost? Sa kushton? 15:00 18:00 TETOVA €5-10
17:00 20:00 TETOVA €5-10
Signs 04:00 10:00 TIRANA** €20-25
Open Hapur 05:00 11:00 TIRANA** €20-25
Closed Mbyllur 06:00 12:00 TIRANA** €20-25
Entrance Hyrje 15:00 21:00 TIRANA** €20-25
Exit Dalje 17:00 23:00 TIRANA** €20-25 On Tue, Thu, Sun.
Push Shtyj * Travels on to Ulcinj
Pull Tërheq ** Via either Kukes or Tetovo (Macedonia)
No smoking Ndalohet pirja e duhanit Schedule correct at time of research in March 2011.
Confirm all times before travelling.

Pristina In Your Pocket pristina.inyourpocket.com

 GETTING AROUND 37

Public transport Train schedule

Pristina is small and taxis are
cheap, so you may never need From Prishtina station To Prishtina station Price
to use public transport (trafiku Dep. Arr. No. City Dep. Arr. No.
urban) in the city. The large 07:50 09:57 TL4201 PEJA 05:32 07:32 IC760 €3
second-hand city buses lum- 16:30 18:26 IC761 PEJA 12:10 14:10 TL4200 €3
bering around town are slow 07:10 09:52 IC891 SKOPJE 16:35 19:35 IC892 €4*
but do get there eventually.
Tickets cost €0,40 and can From Fushë Kosovë station To Fushë Kosovë station Price
be purchased on the buses; Dep. Arr. No. City Dep. Arr. No.
enthusiasts can buy a city bus 08:01 09:46 TL4201 PEJA 05:32 07:21 IC760 €2.80
month card for €10. A useful 16:41 18:26 IC761 PEJA 12:10 13:59 TL4200 €2.80
bus line is city bus N°4, which 07:22 09:52 IC891 SKOPJE 16:35 19:25 IC892 €3.70
rattles from Sunny Hill (in the Schedule valid until December 2011. Confirm times before travelling. All trains from
southeast of Pristina) via Bul. i Pristina station travel via Fushë Kosovë station.
Deshmoreve, Rr. Eqrem Qabej * Price valid till the border; an additional €5 is to be paid on board for the remaining stretch.
and Rr. Luan Haradinaj, through
the centre to Gërmia Park. Kombi minibus N°5 follows the fairly impressive in its day. Now it’s an empty shell, with dusty
same route. Kombi bus N°1 goes from the eastern end of Bul. departure boards and a rather beautiful Tito-era statue outside.
Bill Clinton to the station at Fushë Kosovë for €0,50. Get here by taxi (€7-10) or with the N°1 minibus (€0.40), which
departs every 5-10 minutes from Bul. Bill Clinton (between Rr.
R. Doli and Rr. Perandori Justinian). Fushë Kosovë station has
Taxis trains to and from Pristina, Peja and Skopje.
Starting at €1,50 (€2 after 22:00) plus €0.60 per kilometre,
fares are cheap in Pristina. The jury is out as to the trustwor- Kosovo Railways (Hekurudhat e Kosovës) Sheshi
thiness of your average Pristina cabbie - some reports claim i Lirisë, Fushë Kosovë, tel. +381 38 55 05 50 55, info@
every taxi is driven by a direct descendent of Mother Teresa kosovorailway.com, www.kosovorailway.com. Information
herself, whilst others insist it’s all a Serbian conspiracy. Use about timetables and prices can be found in English on the website.
marked taxis, make sure the meter is running, and if possible
call one in advance (the ones listed here are good). It’s also a
good idea to have your destination written down in Albanian. Travel agents
Our favourite cabbie is Musa (tel. +386 49 85 14 50), a for- Kosovo’s most reliable travel agencies.
mer economics teacher who reads Hegel and Kierkegaard Note to the numerous readers who are eager to go on holiday
and discusses life philosophy in his battered Merc. to Kosovo: please do not use the In Your Pocket comments
feature to contact a travel agent, as we will delete these
London Taxi Service tel. +377 44 30 03 00/+381 messages. Use the agent’s email to contact them directly.
38 70 07 00. A fleet of 15 London black cabs, comfortably
seating 5 people. AltaVia Travel A-2, Rr. Luan Haradinaj 27, tel. +381
Roberti Taxi tel. +381 38 50 00 06/+377 44 11 19 99. 38 54 35 43, fax +381 38 24 35 17, info@altaviatravel.
Titanic Taxi Rr. Shaip Kamberi, tel. +381 38 23 23 com, www.altaviatravel.com. Friendly, professional and
22/+377 44 23 23 24. English-speaking travel agency. QOpen 08:30 - 19:30, Sat
Victory Taxi tel. +381 38 55 53 33/+377 44 11 12 22. 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
VIP Taxi tel. +381 38 50 04 44/+377 44 33 34 44. Be in Kosovo Rr. Jakov Xoxa 2, tel. +377 44 38 51
09/+386 49 38 51 09, info@beinkosovo.com, www.
beinkosovo.com. Foreigner-oriented travel services including
Trains hotel bookings, car rental, guiding, cultural and adventure tourism.
As the national railway company Kosovo Railways (KR) candidly Kosova Airlines A-3, Rr. Garibaldi, tel. +381 38 22 02
admits on its website, it’s in a bad situation. Originally built by 20, fax +381 38 24 91 86, bookingprn@kosovaairlines.
the French (the Skopje-Mitrovica tracks were completed by com, www.flyksa.com. Not an airline but a travel agent
them in 1874) and still known to older locals as the ‘French selling tickets from their office and online by credit card.
road’ (Udha e Frengut), it is now seemingly operated more as Agent for various airlines. Below the Grand Hotel. QOpen
an exercise in ethnic harmony than a useful service. 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
KR operates fast trains (IC) within Kosovo and to Skopje,
Freedom of Movement (F) trains linking the Serb enclaves
and local trains (LT) that stop at every tree. Tickets are
cheap and prices are determined by the number of zones
within Kosovo you travel. A ticket from Pristina to Peja costs
€3, Skopje €4; return tickets are 20% cheaper than two
singles. Tickets on the Freedom of Movement train are €0.50
regardless of destination. A confusing railway timetable can
be found online and if you’re lucky maybe in printed form at
the stations - ask for the orari i trenave brochure.
Pristina effectively has two train stations. West of the centre
near the end of Rruga Garibaldi, Pristina train station is noth-
ing short of disappointing (when In Your Pocket first dropped by
for information the man who worked there had gone for coffee).
The station serves trains to Peja and Skopje via Fushë Kosovë
train station, seven kilometres west of the city centre. This
second station is Kosovo’s railway hub and must have been The Pristina-Skopje express

pristina.inyourpocket.com Spring - Summer 2011

38 MAIL & PHONES
Post and telephone services are increasingly reliable and
better value with the advent of competition. Telephones
Calling Kosovo
To phone to a Pristina landline, dial +381 (still the same as
Express mail Serbia’s code), 38 (for Pristina) and the six-digit subscriber
DHL A/B-3, Bul. Nëne Tereza 29b, tel. +381 38 24 number. To call a mobile phone, dial the operator’s country code
55 45, fax +381 38 24 93 07, pleurat.hoti@dhl.com, (+377 or +386) and the phone number without the initial zero.
www.dhl.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.
Closed Sun. Public telephones
FedEx Rr. Eqrem Qabej 137-145, tel. +381 38 55 08 70, Bright yellow public telephones are scattered around town
fax +381 38 55 08 90, fedexkosovo@gmail.com, www. and are card-operated. Phone cards come in values from
fedex.com. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. €3,50 upwards and can be bought from post offices and
TNT A-3, Rr. Garibaldi, tel. +381 38 22 22 90, tntkoso- kiosks. Instructions are written in English. Phoning to a
va@hotmail.com, www.tnt.com. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, landline in Western Europe costs about €0,25 per minute,
Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. to a mobile number about €0,50 per minute.
UPS (ALD Express) B-3, Rr. UÇK 105/1, tel. +381
38 24 22 22, fax +381 38 24 99 99, www.ups.com. Mobile phones
Express mail within Kosovo with ALD Express, abroad with PTK operates the UN-initiated local mobile phone network
UPS. QOpen 08:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Vala, whose international code is that of Monaco - misdial a
digit and you may get Princess Stephanie on the blower. IPKO
and D3 numbers start with Slovenia’s code +386.
Internet access As you drive around Kosovo you may get ‘Welcome to Germany’
Internet arrived with a bang in Kosovo just a few years ago. text messages as some foreign operators have local mobile
Many businesses now have websites, though many of them networks around military bases - effectively offering the cheapest
are appallingly designed. Now that most cafés offer free wifi, roaming rates in Kosovo. Serbia’s Telenor network illegally cov-
there are no more internet cafés in central Pristina. ers parts of Kosovo, including areas of Pristina, with authorities
regularly pulling down their masts. To avoid high roaming costs on
Takime Bul. i Dëshmorëve 51, tel. +377 44 18 07 22, your home network, buy a local prepaid SIM card at an IPKO or D3
artoni@takime.de, www.takime.de. Internet access from Mobile shop, or at a post office for Vala. New SIM cards cost €5
€1 per hour, CD burning, and ISP services. Check out the and can be used immediately. Top-up cards are widely available.
website for the English-language dating/socialising service.
QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. IPKO A-3, Rr. Perandori Justinian, tel. +386 49 70 07
00/+381 38 70 07 00, info@ipko.net, www.ipko.com.
IPKO also offers fixed-line phones with free installation and
Post cheap calls worldwide. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00.
The mail in Kosovo is run by the PTK (www.postaekosoves. Vala A-4, Rr. Dardania, tel. +381 38 50 05 55, info@
net). Their post offices handle mail, parcels, EMS parcel valamobile.com, www.valamobile.com.
service, and telephone calls to national and international Z Mobile A/B-2, Rr. UÇK 105a, tel. +377 45 50 05
numbers. 00, info@zmobileonline.com, www.zmobileonline.com.
Sending a postcard or letter (under 20g) costs €0,20 within D3 Rr. Dëshmoret e Kombit 78, tel. +381 38 50 03 00,
Kosovo, €0,50 to neighbouring countries, €0,70 to the rest www.d3-mobile.com.
of Europe and €1.50-€2 outside Europe. Sending small
packages (0.5-1kg) costs €1,40 within Kosovo, €8,70 to
neighbouring countries, €10,70 to the rest of Europe and City codes
€10,70-15,50 to elsewhere.
When calling from abroad or roaming, prefix with +381
Central Post Office A-2, Rr. UÇK 66, info@post- and drop any first zero.
aekosoves.net, www.postaekosoves.net. The city centre Gjakova 390 Gjilan 280 Ferizaj 029
post office. Ironically, a listed historical building which was Mitrovica 028 Peja 039 Pristina 038
of importance to the wartime anti-fascist movement was Prizren 029
demolished illegally to make way for this ghastly new building.
Have a think about that while you lick your stamps.
Main Post Office Bul. i Dëshmorëve, tel. +381 38 55 45
54, info@postaekosoves.net, www.postaekosoves.net. Country codes
South of the city centre. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Albania 355 Hungary 36 Romania 40
Australia 61 Ireland 353 Russia 7
Laptop login Austria 43 Israel 972 Serbia 381
Belarus 375 Italy 39 Slovakia 421
Dozens of hotels, bars and cafés provide free wifi con- Belgium 32 Japan 81 Slovenia 386
nections, and it’s easy to find a place to check your email. Bulgaria 359 Kosovo 381 Spain 34
PTK’s wireless internet service (www.ptkonline.com) Croatia 385 Latvia 371 Sweden 46
offers access to all sorts of hotspots throughout the Czech Rep. 420 Lithuania 370 Switzerland 41
country for a monthly fee of €30. If you have a modem, Denmark 45 Moldova 373 Turkey 90
there’s also the DardaNet dialup internet service. Estonia 372 Montenegro 381 UK 44
Have your PC call tel. 90 90 and enter ptk as both the Finland 358 Netherlands 31 Ukraine 380
username and password and away you go. The service France 33 Norway 47 USA 1
is erratic, but better than nothing, and is charged at a Germany 49 Poland 48
reasonable €0.40/hour. Greece 30 Portugal 351

Pristina In Your Pocket pristina.inyourpocket.com


Pristina won’t be a major European shopping destination
anytime soon, but the situation has improved a lot in
the past few years. Now there are several department
stores and hypermarkets on the roads leading east and
south out of the city, and both variety and quality has
increased. In the centre, makeshift stalls are everywhere
selling sunglasses, cigarettes and books. A walk around
the central bazaar can be rewarding, with lots of small
furniture shops, some of which make the goods that they
sell. The bazaar also has a small modern market attached
with fake designer clothes, fruit and vegetables, pirate
CDs and walls of cigarettes.
Books & Press
In addition to the following shops, there are several book-
stands beside the Grand Hotel that have some English-
language books. For English-language local news, look for
the bimonthly Prishtina Insight newspaper.
Buzuku A-3, Rr. Edith Durham, tel. +377 44 23 87 38.
In the alley near the Grand hotel, Buzuku is named after
the first Albanian book and has a small range of imported
novels, art, literature and Balkan-related books. QOpen
09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Dit’ e Nat’ B-2, Rr. Fazli Grajqevci, tel. +386 49 25 63
62, info@ditenat.com. The city’s first book café has a good
selection of English-language books and magazines (including
the regional In Your Pocket city guides) plus a cool café. Any
books you may desire can be ordered from abroad. QOpen
07:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Dukag jini International Bookshop B-3, Bul. Nëna
Tereza 20, tel. +381 38 24 81 43, info@dukag jini-
group.com, www.dukag jinibookshop.com. Pristina’s
largest bookshop has a diverse selection of English-
language books, maps, some magazines (including The
Economist), and several regional In Your Pocket city
guide titles. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00.
Closed Sun.
Jinglebells Rr. Ernest Koliqi 12, tel. +386 49 74
11 70. An oddly-named shop selling English and other-
language books, newspapers, and souvenirs. Opposite
the EULEX HQ.
Monaco A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, Pallati i Rinisë, tel.
+377 44 11 09 81. A restaurant with a reliable supply of
foreign newspapers and magazines on sale. Papers arrive
around 18:00 daily except Sunday. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00,
Sun 10:00 - 23:00.
CDs & DVDs
You’ll understand that most of those CDs and DVDs that are
attractively priced at €2-4 are illegal copies, and customs
officials abroad may impose stiff fines for importing them.
Ironically, the contraband is mainly sold to foreigners who
are here to restore law and order.
DEA Productions A-4, Rr. Ilaz Kodra 4, tel. +377 44
23 28 58. Specialists in Albanian music of all types, find row
upon row of CDs and DVDs of the works of people such as
Sabriu and Adelina, plus a small selection of traditional Alba-
nian instruments including a nice selection of hand-carved
lahutas. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.
Ginger A-3, Rr. Edith Durham 82, Avalla, tel. +381 38
22 71 93/+377 44 12 63 05, gingermaterials@gmail.
com. The knowledgeable owner of this highbrow CD, DVD and
book shop sells ‘music and films that matter’: classic films
and music you don’t see in the other shops, and a good place
to get advice on local music and ask about gigs. Literature,
music and art books too. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.
pristina.inyourpocket.com
SHOPPING 39
The frame shop
Fashion & Shoes
Cool A-2, Rr. UÇK. High heels, dresses and skirts - from
chique to outrageous. Next to De Rada restaurant.
Diesel A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, Pallati i Rinisë shopping
centre, tel. +377 44 11 53 73. Diesel and G-Star clothing
and Camper shoes. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Ervi A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, Pallati i Rinisë shopping
centre, tel. +381 38 22 23 78. Sports clothes and shoes
by Converse and Nike. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Miss Sixty Albi Center, Veternik, tel. +381 38 500 20
21 00. Ladies’ fashion. QOpen 08:30 - 22:30.
OVS Industry Veternik, tel. +381 38 55 66 88, www.
oviesse.com. Italian fashion at reasonable prices. In the
Gorenje building. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Springfield Albi Center, Veternik, tel. +381 38 50 02
02. Modern fashion, and some shoes.
Tom Tailor Albi Center, Veternik, tel. +381 38 500 20
23 15. Fashion for men and women.
Zara Rr. Garibaldi 12, tel. +381 38 23 00 32. Women’s
fashion. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Flowers & Plants
Remember Me B-3, Rr. Qamil Hoxha 3/1, tel. +381
38 24 53 45/+377 44 28 34 44, info@dergonilule.com,
www.dergonilule.com. Beautiful bouquets and tempting
chocolates (€20/kg). Delivers anywhere in Pristina (€3) and
Kosovo (€6), and takes orders online or by phone with credit
card payment. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Gifts & Souvenirs
Antika B-3, Rr. Agim Ramadani, tel. +377 44 20 96 89.
One of the few gift shops in town; it sells Skenderbeg statues,
Indian products and other presents. Near Rruga Qamil Hoxha.
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Silver Gallery A-2, Rr. Rexhep Luci 15, tel. +381 38
24 85 20. A boutique with delicate Prizren filigran jewellery
as well as imported silver items from Turkey. QOpen 10:00
- 19:00. Closed Sun.
Women for Women B-2, Rr. UÇK 42, tel. +381 38 24 84
17, wfwi_knora@hotmail.com, www.womenforwomen.
org. The international organisation promoting women’s rights
and self-sufficiency in former war zones has shops in Pristina
selling hand-made local handicrafts such as rugs, aprons,
placemats and clothing. Also available online. QOpen 08:00
- 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Spring - Summer 2011
40 SHOPPING
What you said
A selection of reader’s comments from the Pristina
In Your Pocket website. You too can add your opinion,
below every review on www.pristina.inyourpocket.
com.
Ambasador
Great service, nice breakfast, and the sauna is good.
Best hotel that I have seen in Pristina.
Vaari, Finland
Sara
I really loved my one-night stay here. My room was spot-
less and quiet, and bed was comfy. Staff were without ex-
ception helpful and friendly. Best of all, really good value.
Philomena O’Brien, Belgrade, Serbia
Kosovo Museum
Had an awesome time today with some fellow US Army
National Guard soldiers while touring the museum.
Levi Biass, Atlanta, USA
Amélie
I love Amelie, such great food and I am SO happy they
have complied with the non-smoking law, Bravo! I’ll be
there all of the time now.
Maggie, Pristina, Kosovo
Mumtaz Mahal
Really really good; never had anything there that I did
not love.
VM, USA
Pjata
Fantastic little place. Great food, great atmosphere,
superb service and friendly prices. Everything we ordered
was just great.
Slobodan Milic, Kraljevo, Serbia
Sokoli e Mirusha
The best place to have an unforgettable night, and
never never boring even if you go every night! The best
jazz music ever.
Arta, Prishtina, Kosovo
Musical instruments
Pr o Music A-4, Rr. Perandori Justinian, tel.
+377 44 50 33 22, inf o@promusic-pr.com, w w w.
promusic-pr.com. A small sh op packe d wi th mostl y
el e c tri c instrum en ts, plus lots of strin gs an d oth er
spare par ts. Q Op en 09:00 - 19:00, Sa t 10:00 -
18:00. Close d Sun.
Office Equipment & Supplies
Albus Rr. Eqr em Çab ej, tel. +381 38 55 55
27/+381 38 53 44 45, inf o@albus-ks.com,
w w w:albus-ks.com. Office supplies, school materials
and compu ter necessi ties. Dealer for Casio, Senator,
Emtec, Targus, OfficePoint and more. Q Open 08:00 -
19:00. Closed Sun.
Comtrade Computers Rr. Eqerem Çabej, tel. +381
38 22 26 95/+377 44 22 26 95, www.comtradecom-
puters.com. Computers, printers and other hardware and
software for in the office and at home. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.
Pristina In Your Pocket
Photography
Foto Gagi A-3, Fehmi Agani 40, tel. +381 38 23 66 66.
QOpen 08:30 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Topfoto A-2, Rr. UÇK 17, Qafa Centre, tel. +381 38 24
30 44. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Speciality shops
Lumi Bakery B-4, Rr. Eqerem Qabej, tel. +381 38 22 97
52/+377 44 11 53 86. Delicious local and foreign-style pastries,
cakes and bread, all served with a smile. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
Natyra C-3/4, Rr. Bregu i Diellit 5, tel. +381 44 20 86
28. Pronounced natura and meaning nature, this lovely little
English-speaking shop is crammed full of huge sacks of beans,
rice, nuts and spices. Also find fresh eggs, Brazilian coffee
beans and some delicious local honey. Up an alley east of the
centre. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 11:00.
Runway Duty Free Pristina Airport, tel. +381 38 59
44 22, www.ari.ie. Beyond customs at the airport, Runway
offers officially imported and guaranteed original perfumery,
jewellery, fashion, tobacco and liquor products, besides of-
fering souvenirs and the best range of Kosovo T-shirts in the
country. QOpen 04:00 - 21:00.
Sports
Megasport B-2, Rr. Agim Ramadani 59, tel. +381 38
22 34 42, www.megasport.org. A good selection of equip-
ment including exercise bikes, running machines, table tennis
equipment, squash, badminton etc. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00,
Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Runners A-3, Rr. Garibaldi, tel. +377 44 13 83 32. Sports
shoes and apparel. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Supermarkets & Malls
Most foreigners do their shopping at one of several malls or
‘hypermarkets’ around town.
Albi Mall Veternik, Skopje road, tel. +381 38 50 02
02, info@albicenter.com, www.albicenter.com. The
recently expanded Albi Mall now has two additional floors,
over 100 shops including a hypermarket, a good electronics
shop and several boutiques with genuine, imported brand
clothing like Tom Tailor, Vero Moda, Springfield and Jack
Jones. There’s also a bowling alley and a kids’ playground.
QOpen 07:30 - 22:30.
Grand Store Veternik, Skopje road, tel. +377 44 48 88
77, info@grandstore-pr.com, www.grandstore-pr.com. A
large mall with a department store and hypermarket (open
08:00-23:00). On the upper floors find Diesel, Levi’s, Gap
Kids and some good electronics shops. For children there’s a
Kid’s Land, for others there’s the Vertigo bar/restaurant. The
excellent Gizzi Grill restaurant is just outside. A free shuttle bus
runs to the mall every hour. QOpen 10:00 - 22.00.
Maxi Hipermarket A/B-2, Rr. Rexhep Luci, tel. +381
38 22 52 30, maxi3@maxiks.com, www.maxiks.com.
Very handy for the city centre, this large basement ‘hipermar-
ket’ is as modern as it gets, and sells the usual goods plus
wine, pork, fresh fish (sometimes live), foreign magazines
and bakery products. Several other outlets across town.
QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
Minimax Arberia, Film City, tel. +381 38 24 72 29,
www.minimax-ks.com. Strategically placed near the exit
of a large NATO base at the edge of town, Minimax has
three floors of casual and sports clothes (including excellent
Goretex coats). The ground floor is crammed with cut-price
CDs and DVDs (under €2) and a collection of porn films that’s
impressive by any standards. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
pristina.inyourpocket.com
 DIRECTORY 41

Find business, health, officials and other useful contact

details here.

Accountants
Deloitte Kosova Rr. Bedri Pejani 3, tel. +381 38 24 55
82, fax +381 38 24 55 84.

Banks
Several commercial banks have ATMs across Kosovo that
can be used with international debit and credit cards.

Banka Ekonomike A-2, Rr. Mig jeni 1, tel. +383 38 22

53 53, fax +381 38 22 54 54, bek@bekonomike.com,
www.bek-bank.com.
BKT A-3, Rr. Pashko Vasa 9, tel. +381 38 22 29 06,
www.bkt.com.al.
BPB (Bank for Private Business) B-2, Rr. UÇK 41,
tel. +381 38 24 46 66, www.bpbbank.com.
Central Bank of Kosovo (BQK) A-3, Rr. Garibaldi 33,
tel. +381 38 222 055, www.bqk-kos.org.
NLB Prishtina A-2, Rr. Rexhep Luci 5, tel. +381 38 24
61 85, info@nlbprishtina-kos.com, www.nlbprishtina-
kos.com.
ProCredit Bank A-3, Rr. George Bush, tel. +381
38 55 55 55, info@procreditbank-kos.com, www.
procreditbank-kos.com.
Raiffeisen Bank B-4, Rr. UÇK 51, tel. +381 38 22 22
22, www.raiffeisen-kosovo.com.
TEB Bank B-2, Rr. Agim Ramadani 15, tel. +381 38
23 00 00, fax +381 38 24 77 99, www.teb-kos.com.
Business connections
American Chamber of Commerce in Kosovo A-2,
Rr. Gustav Majer 6, tel. +381 38 24 60 12, fax +381
38 24 80 12, info@amchamksv.org, www.amchamksv.
org. The American business association, regularly publishing
the Kosovo Business Journal which can be downloaded free
from the website.
Austrian Chamber of Commerce Rr. Ahmet Krasniqi
22, tel. +381 38 54 14 00, austriantrade@ipko.net.
Croatian Chamber of Commerce B-2, Rr. Fehmi
Agani 69B-1a, tel. +381 38 24 33 99, fax +381 38 24
33 98, pkosovo@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr.
Kosovo Chamber of Commerce A-3, Bul. Nëne
Tereza 20, tel. +381 38 22 47 41/+377 44 50 12
09, fax +381 38 22 42 99, info@oek-kcc.org, www.
odaekonomike.org.
Riinvest B-3, Industrial Zone, tel. +381 38 60 13 20,
fax +381 38 60 12 33, riinvest@riinvestinstitute.org,
www.riinvestinstitute.org. The Institute for Development
Research.
Statistical Office of Kosovo (Enti i Statistikës së
Kosovës) B-2, Rr. Zenel Salihu 4, tel. +381 38 23 51
Bowling
Bo Bowling Rr. Shefqet Shkupi, tel. +377 44 24 12
51/+381 38 50 00 60. Pristina’s best bowling centre
with good equipment and a lively cocktail bar and crepe
restaurant. Also at the Albi Mall. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00,
Sat, Sun 14:00 - 01:00.
Princi i Arbërit Bowling Rr. Vellezerit Fazliu,
Kodra e Trimave, tel. +381 38 24 42 44, www.
hotel-princiiarberit.com. Several bowling lanes inside
the Princi i Arbërit hotel.
New architecture in Pristina
11, fax +381 38 23 50 33, eskinfo@ks-gov.net, www.ks-
gov.net/esk. Publishes lots of information online in English.
Cleaning
Divine Cleaning Service Rr. Ismail Qemali 76, Arbëria,
tel. +377 44 54 12 21, info@divinecleaning.eu, www.
divinecleaning.eu. House cleaning from €20-35, laundry/
ironing service, pet- and house sitting, and an After Party
Rescue service.
Pio A-4, Rr. Dardania SU1/5, 32, tel. +381 38 55 82
13/+377 44 17 34 47, pio-malazogu@hotmail.com.
Cleaning of offices, houses and apartments, window and
carpet cleaning, junk removal, and more. QOpen 08:00 -
20:00. Closed Sun.
Dentists
Eurodent B-3, Rr. Qamil Hoxha 12, tel. +381 38 22 07
82. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Petadent B-4, Rr. Ulpiana U3 III/B1, tel. +381 38 55
36 58/+377 44 62 54 60. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Education
American School of Kosova A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj,
Pallati i Rinisë, tel. +381 38 22 72 77, info@askosova.
org, www.askosova.org. The city-centre American school
is an elementary and high school with about 450 pupils.
American University in Kosovo (AUK) Rr. Nazim
Gaffuri 21, tel. +381 38 60 86 08, fax +381 38 60 80
24, info@aukonline.org, www.aukonline.org. Kosovo’s
leading private university works with the Rochester Institute
of Technology in the US. Also operates the Training and
Development Institute offering Microsoft Academy and other
international training courses for business.
University of Prishtina B-3, Rr. George Bush, tel. +381
38 24 41 83, info@uni-pr.edu, www.uni-pr.edu.

pristina.inyourpocket.com Spring - Summer 2011

42 DIRECTORY
Sports
Fitness Gym Prishtina A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj,
Pallati i Rinisë dhe i Sporteve, info@fitness-prishtina.
com, www.fitness-prishtina.com. Pristina’s best gym
has 300 square metres of modern equipment and train-
ers. QOpen 10:00 - 22.00. Closed Sun.
Gërmia Park swimming pool Rr. Nazim Gafurri.
Large open-air swimming pool in the park. Q Admis-
sion €1,5.
Prishtina Golf Llapnasellë, tel. +377 45 34 34
33/+389 49 34 34 33, info@prishtinagolf.com, www.
prishtinagolf.com. Minigolf with a difference; no concrete
here, but 18 grass miniature versions of famous holes
across the world, so you can putt your way from St Andrews
to Ballybunion. There’s also a driving range and a restaurant.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Minigolf €5,
children €3. Driving range clubs €5, 50/100 balls €5/8.
Foreign representations
Many countries now have embassies, consulates or liaison
offices in Pristina. Their use to travellers in need of help
is often quite limited, and you may have to contact or visit
your Belgrade or Skopje embassy. Losing your passport in
Kosovo is a very bad idea; your representation office can
probably only help you with documents for travel to your
Skopje embassy or with an emergency passport that only
allows for travel straight home.
Albania Rr. Mujo Ulqinaku 18, tel. +381 38 24 82 08,
fax +381 38 24 82 09, mission.kosova@mfa.gov.al.
Austria Rr. Ahmet Krasniqi 22, tel. +381 38 24 92 84,
fax +381 38 24 92 85, pristina-ob@bmeia.gv.at.
Belgium Rr. Ilirida 23A, tel. +381 38 73 47 34, fax
+381 38 73 57 35, pristina@diplobel.fed.be, www.
diplomatie.be/pristina.
Bulgaria Rr. Ismail Qemali 12, tel. +381 38 24 55 40, fax
+381 38 24 55 43, dbpristina@abv.bg, www.mfa.bg/en/111.
China Rr. Ismail Qemali 47, tel. +381 38 24 85 08, fax
+381 38 24 91 26.
Croatia A-3, Rr. Mujo Ulqinaku 20, tel. +381 38 22 39
78, fax +381 38 22 39 79, croemb.pristina@mvpei.hr.
Czech Republic Rr. Ismail Qemali 31, tel. +381 38 24
66 76, fax +381 38 24 87 82, pristina@embassy.mzv.cz.
Finland A-3, Rr. Perandori Justinian 19, tel. +381 38
73 70 00, fax +381 38 73 28 63, sanomat.pri@formin.
fi, www.finlandkosovo.org.
France Rr. Ismail Qemali 67, tel. +381 38 22 45 88
00/+381 38 22 45 88 05, fax +381 38 22 45 88 01,
admin-etrangers.pristina-amba@diplomatie.gouv.fr.
Germany Rr. Azem Jashanica 17, tel. +381 38 25 45
00, fax +381 38 25 45 36, info@pristina.diplo.de, www.
pristina.diplo.de.
Greece Rr. Ismail Qemali 68, tel. +381 38 24 30 13,
fax +381 38 24 55 33, grpristina@mfa.gr.
Hungary Rr. 24 Maji, 23, tel. +381 38 24 77 63, fax
+381 38 24 77 64, huoffice.pristina@ipko.net.
Italy Rr. Azem Jashanica 5, tel. +381 38 24 49 25, fax
+381 38 22 49 29, segreteria.pristina@esteri.it.
Japan A-3, Rr. Rexhep Mala 43, tel. +381 38 24 99 95,
fax +381 38 24 54 34, jplopr@yahoo.com.
Luxembourg Rr. Metush Krasniqi 14, tel./fax +381
38 22 67 87.
Macedonia Rr. 24 Maji, tel. +381 38 24 74 62, fax
+381 38 24 74 63, macedonialiaison@mail.net.mk,
www.mfa.gov.mk.
Pristina In Your Pocket
Malaysia A-3, Rr. Bedri Shala 48, Velania, tel. +381 38
24 34 67, fax +381 38 24 34 64.
Netherlands Rr. Xhemajl Berisha 12, tel. +381 38 51
61 01, fax +381 38 51 61 03, pri@minbuza.nl, www.mfa.
nl/en/europe/kosovo/embassy_pristina.
Norway Rr.Sejdiu Kryeziu nr. 6, tel. +381 38 23 21 11
00, fax +381 38 23 21 11 22, emb.prishtina@mfa.no,
www.norway-kosovo.no.
Romania Rr. Azem Jashanica 25, Arbëria, tel. +381 38
24 62 72, office@romanian-office.ipko.org.
Russia Rr. Eduard Lir 20, tel. +381 38 24 71 12, fax
+381 38 24 71 13, ruschanemb@kujtesa.com.
Slovakia Rr. Metush Krasniqi 7, tel. +381 38 24 01
40, fax +381 38 24 94 99, branchemb.pristina@mzv.
sk, www.mzv.sk/pristina.
Slovenia A-3, Rr. Anton Ceta 6, tel. +381 38 24 62 55,
fax +381 38 24 62 56, mpi@gov.si.
Sweden Rr. Perandori Justinian 19, tel. +381 38 24 57
95, fax +381 38 24 57 91, ambassaden.pristina@sida.
se, www.swedenabroad.com.
Switzerland Rr. Adrian Krasniqi 11, tel. +381 38 24
80 88/+381 38 24 80 89, fax +381 38 24 80 78, pri.
vertretung@eda.admin.ch, www.eda.admin.ch/pristina.
Turkey Rr. Ismail Qemali 59, tel. +381 38 22 60 44,
fax +381 38 22 60 31, turkemb.prishtina@mfa.gov.tr.
United Kingdom Rr. Ismail Qemali 6, tel. +381 38 25
47 00, fax +381 38 24 97 99, britishembassy.pristina@
fco.gov.uk, www.ukinkosovo.fco.gov.uk.
USA Rr. Nazim Hikmet 30, tel. +381 38 54 95 16,
fax +381 38 54 98 90, papristina@state.gov, http://
pristina.usembassy.gov.
Hair & Beauty
Menda A-2/3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +381 38 22 78 00.
A good, modern hairdresser in a designer space. Men’s cuts
from €8, women from €18. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Vogue Hair Rr. Agim Ramadani 22/31, tel. +381 38
24 72 96, info@voguehair.net, www.voguehair.net. Join
the local celebrities at the best-known salon in the city, with
several English-speaking hairdressers.
Hospitals & Clinics
Euromed Rr. Nëna Tereza 158, Fushë Kosova, tel.
+381 38 53 40 72, fax +381 38 53 40 73, info@klinika-
euromed.com, www.klinika-euromed.com. Modern,
private general hospital just west of Pristina.
Poliklinika Radiolog jike Medico Rr. Lamella 11-10,
tel. +377 44 16 72 99. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00
- 16:00. Closed Sun.
Rezonanca A-3, Rr. Ahmet Zogu, tel. +381 38 24 38
01/+377 44 12 96 78, fax +381 38 24 56 50, mail@
rezonanca.com, www.rezonanca.com. Q Open 24hrs.
International organisations
Council of Europe Kragujevci 8, UNHCR HQ, tel. +
381 38 24 37 49, fax + 381 38 24 37 52, www.coe.int.
DAI (Development Alternative Inc) Rr. Shaban Pol-
luzha 3, info@dai.com, www.dai.com.
EBRD (European Bank for Reconstruction and
Development) A - 2, Rr. Agim Ramadani, tel. +381 38
24 81 53, fax +381 38 24 81 52, bajramif@ebrd.com,
www.ebrd.com. The EBRD uses investment to help build
the market economy and democracy in Kosovo.
ESI (Kosovar Stability Initiative) A-3, Rr. Garibaldi H11-6,
tel. +381 38 22 23 21, info@iksweb.org, www.iksweb.org. A
non-profit research and policy institute. The website has many inter-
esting articles about everything from energy policy to emigration.
pristina.inyourpocket.com
44 DIRECTORY
The Best of Pristina
The staff at Pristina In Your Pocket have had fun writing
what we thing about the city’s restaurants, bars, clubs
and sights – but now it’s time for the readers to make
themselves heard. What is your favourite place in Pristina
for local food, for a snack, for drinks, or for a conference?
In the next edition we’ll have a questionnaire and an
online poll. Write to us at pristina@inyourpocket.com
to let us know your favourites so we can draw up the
shortlist for voting. The categories are...
Best Kosovan restaurant
Best Italian restaurant
Best international restaurant
Best fast food restaurant
Best burek shop
Best pizza restaurant
Best café/bar
Best club
Best cultural institution
Best Pristina sight
Best daytrip destination
Best daytrip destination
Best shopping centre
Best business hotel
Best leisure hotel
Best hotel outside Pristina
Best conference venue
EULEX Rr. Muharrem Fejza, tel. +386 43 78 20 00, fax
+386 43 78 65 56, info@eulex-kosovo.eu, www.eulex-
kosovo.eu. The European Union Rule of Law Mission, which
supports the Kosovo police, judiciary and customs.
ICS (International Crisis Group) A-2, Rr. Fehmi
Agani 36-1/1, tel./fax +381 38 24 35 61, pristina@cri-
sisgroup.org, www.crisisgroup.org. A think tank ‘working
to prevent conflict worldwide’. Several dozen articles about
Kosovo are online.
IMF (International Monetary Fund) Bul. Nëna Tereza,
tel. +381 38 24 46 55, www.imf.org.
KFOR (Kosovo Force) Arberia, Film City, tel. +381
38 50 36 03 20 70, pao@hq.kfor.nato.int, www.nato.
int/kfor. The NATO-led international force responsible for
establishing and maintaining security in Kosovo.
KFOS (Kosovo Foundation for Open Society) Rr.
Imzot Nikëprelaj, Villa 13, Ulpiana, tel. +381 38 54 21
57, info@kfos.org, www.kfos.org. Active in the fields
of education and youth, human rights, civil society, media,
women programs, etc.
KIPRED (Kosovar Institute for Policy Research
& Development) C-3/4, Rr. Rexhep Mala 5A, tel./fax
+ 381 38 22 77 78, info@kipred.net, www.kipred.net.
Works to promote democracy in Kosovo.
OSCE A-2, Rr. Tirana, tel. +381 38 50 01 62, fax +381
38 24 07 11, www.osce.org/kosovo.
PAK (Privatisation Agency of Kosovo) B-1, Rr. Ilir
Konushevci 8, tel. +381 38 50 04 00, info@pak-ks.org,
www.pak-ks.org.
UNDP (United Nations Development Programme)
A - 3, Rr. Perandori Justinian 16, tel. +381 38 24 90 66,
fax + 381 38 24 90 67, registry.ks@undp.org, www.
ks.undp.org.
UNICEF (United Nations Children’s Fund) B-3, Rr.
Ali Pashë Tepelena 1, tel. +381 38 24 92 30, fax +381
38 24 92 34, prishtina@unicef.org, www.unicef.org.
UNMIK A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +381 38 50 46
04/+377 44 502 017, www.unmikonline.org.
Pristina In Your Pocket
World Bank A-3, Rr. Mujo Ulqinaku 3, tel. +381 38
24 94 59, laliu@worldbank.org, www.worldbank.org.
EC (European Commission Liaison Office) Rr.
Kosovo 1, tel. +381 38 513 13 20 00, fax +381 38 51
31 305, delegation-kosovo@ec.europa.eu, www.delprn.
ec.europa.eu.
Language schools
Britannica ELT Rr. Imzot Nikprelaj, Ulpiana, tel. +381
38 54 46 53, britannica@britannica-elt.com, www.bri-
tannica-elt.com. Albanian language courses for foreigners.
Lawyers
Ekrem Smajli B-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 9/1, tel. +381 38
22 79 24.
Fazli Balaj B-2, Rr. UÇK 47/D, tel. +377 44 11 50 26.
Libraries
Municipality Library Hivzi Sylejmani A-2, Rr. UÇK
10, tel. +381 38 23 29 80. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat
08:00 - 15:30. Closed Sun.
National & University Library of Kosova B-3, Sheshi
Hasan Prishtina, tel./fax +381 38 24 96 50, www.
biblioteka-ks.org. For a description, see the Sightseeing
chapter. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Marketing
AMM Rr. Luan Haradinaj, Kino ABC 1, tel./fax +381 38
24 49 36, inf@ammkosova.com, www.ammkosova.com.
Outdoor advertising, maintenance and office cleaning services.
Ogilvy Kosovo B-1/2, Rr. Ilaz Agushi 4, tel. +381 38 23
23 33, info@ogilvyks.com, www.ogilvyks.com.
Massage
Sala Thai Massage & Spa A-2, Rr. UÇK, Qafa complex,
tel. +377 44 16 85 21. On the first floor of the Qafa complex,
Sala Thai offers traditional Thai massage for €25/hr, Swedish
massage at €35/hr, Thai herbal massage, foot massage,
body scrub, facial treatment, aromatherapy and a sauna.
Media
Kosovalive A - 3, Pallati i Shtypit, Anex 2, tel./fax
+381 38 24 82 76, newsdesk@kosovalive.com, www.
kosovalive.com. Local news in English.
Prishtina Insight tel. +381 38 24 33 58/+381 38 22
44 98, info@prishtinainsight.cm, www.prishtinainsight.
com. Prishtina Insight is a quality biweekly English-language
newspaper published by BIRN, the Balkan Investigative Re-
porting Network. The paper is for sale at €1 at the airport,
hotels and shops, and as a PDF by internet subscription.
Radio 21 A-3, Pallati i Shtypit Anex 2, tel. +381 38 55
00 88, info@rtv21.tv, www.rtv21.tv.
RTK B-2, Rr. Xhemail Prishtina 12, tel. +381 38 23
01 02/+381 38 23 12 11, www.rtklive.com. Kosovo’s
public television.
Ministries
Ministry for Community and Return B-2, Bul. Nëne
Tereza, tel. +381 38 55 20 4716 50 4, sabit.hykolli@
ks-gov.net, hwww.mkk-ks.org.
Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry & Rural Develop-
ment Bul. Nëne Tereza 35, tel. +381 38 21 18 21, jusuf.
salihu@ks-gov.net, www.mbpzhr-ks.net.
pristina.inyourpocket.com
46 DIRECTORY
Ministry of Education, Science & Technology Rr.
Musine Kokalari 18, tel. +381 38 54 09 74, masht@
masht-gov.net, www.masht-gov.net.
Ministry of Environment & Spatial Planning C-1,
Rr. Pashko Vasa, tel. +381 38 51 78 00, fax +381 38
51 78 45, www.ks-gov.net/mmph.
Ministry of Finance & Economy A-3, Bul. Nëne Tereza
21, tel. +381 38 20 03 43 39/+381 38 20 03 41 71,
flumi@mfe-ks.org, www.mef-rks.org.
Ministry of Foreign Affairs Bul. Nëne Tereza, tel. +381
38 21 39 63, fax +381 38 21 39 85, mfa@ks-gov.net,
www.ks-gov.net/mpj.
Ministry of Labour & Social Welfare tel. +381 38
20 02 13, fax +381 38 24 42 29, info_mpms@yahoo.
com, www.ks-gov.net/mpms.
Ministry of Mining and Energy Bul. Nëne Tereza,
tel. +381 38 20 02 15 05, mem.informimi@gmail.com,
www.ks-gov.net/mem.
Ministry of Public Administration Rr. Pashko Vasa,
tel. +381 38 20 03 09 42, info-mshp@ks-gov.net, www.
ks-gov.net/map.
Ministry of Trade amd Industry A-3, Rr. Muharrem
Fejza, tel. + 381 38 51 21 64, fax + 381 38 51 27 98,
www.mti-ks.org.
Ministry of Transport & Communication B-2, Bul.
Nëna Tereza, tel. +381 38 20 02 80 05, info@mtpt.org,
www.mtpt.org.
Prime Minister’s Office B-2, Bul. Nëna Tereza,
tel. +381 38 21 12 02, info_pmo@ks-gov.net, www.
kryeministri-ks.net.
Municipality
Town Hall B-2, Rr. Trepca 2, tel. +381 38 24 53 48,
www.prishtina-komuna.org. Pristina’s mayor is Mr. Isa
Mustafa.
NGOs
Balkan Sunflowers A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, Pallati i
Rinisë, 114, tel. +381 38 24 62 99, www.balkansun-
flowers.org. International volunteers participating in local
community life.
CHwB (Cultural Heritage without Borders) Rr. R.
Zogoviq 8, tel./fax +381 38 24 39 18, kosovo@chwb.
org, www.chwbkosovo.org. Works to preserve and pro-
mote endangered cultural heritage. Also a major contributor
to the Prizren and Peja In Your Pocket guides.
Çohu tel. +381 38 24 85 06/+377 44 11 05 08, www.
cohu.org. Fighting corruption and promoting democracy.
Ombudsperson B-4, Rr. Agim Ramadani, tel. +381
38 50 14 01, fax +381 38 54 53 02, ombudsperson@
ombudspersonkosovo.org, www.ombudspersonkosovo.
org. Sami Kurteshi investigates abuse of authority and
general incompetence by public institutions in Kosovo. A
busy man indeed.
Save the Children Rr. Nazim Hikmet 4, tel. +381 38
23 12 96, www.savethechildren.net.
USAID Rr. Ismail Qemali 1, tel. +381 38 24 36 73, fax
+ 381 38 24 94 93, kosovousaidinfo@usaid.gov, www.
usaid.gov/kosovo. Aims to help the private sector develop,
encourages democratic institutions, and rebuilds community
infrastructure.
Opticians
Oculo Optika B-2, Rr. Agim Ramadani 52, tel. +381
38 22 16 21, shpend_baruti@yahoo.com, www.ocu-
loptika.com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
Pristina In Your Pocket
Emergencies
Police 92 Fire 93 Ambulance 94
Pharmacies
Pharmacies (barnatore) like to close early - we gave up look-
ing for a 24hr pharmacy. Bring all your basic medical supplies
with you, and get good health insurance before you arrive.
AD Pharma B-4, Rr. Dëshmorët e Kombit 64, tel. +381
38 55 06 98. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
Leka Med B-1, Veternik, tel. +381 38 54 88 45, fax
+381 38 54 07 12. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.
Public Utilities
For when the light goes off or the water turns brown.
KEK A-4, Rr. Ilaz Kodra, tel. +381 38 22 78 42, www.
kek-energy.com. The service you’ll love to hate. While you
still have electricity, check the website for an estimate of how
many hours of power you’ll have today.
KRM Pastrimi Bul. Bill Clinton, tel. +381 38 52 51
91, fax +381 38 60 31 51, krm_pastrimi@yahoo.com.
Waste utility.
KUR Prishtina A-4, Bul. Bill Clinton, tel. +381 38 60
30 10, info@kur-prishtina.com, www.kur-prishtina.com.
Pristina’s water utility.
Termokosi A-4, Dardania p.n, tel. +381 38 54 40 15,
info@termokos.org, www.termokos.org. The heating
utility. Ring these chaps when you’re not so warm and kosi.
Real estate
Many ‘internationals’ prefer to live in the Arbëria/Dragodan
district on the hillside west of the centre. Rents vary per
area; apartments in the centre are around €400 per month,
Sunny Hill €500 and Arbëria up to €700; several agencies
can help you find a place to stay, but alternatively just walk
around town and look for ‘apartment for rent’ signs. To avoid
hassle, sign a proper contract, make sure the landlord does
all utility payments, and be clear up front about your privacy
(see www.mtcowgirl.us for more tips). Foreigners rarely buy
houses here, but prices of quality houses are fairly stable
at €1,200-2,000 per square metre.
Eco Impex B-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 9/1, tel. +381 38 24
92 64, fax +381 38 24 92 63, ecoimpex@hotmail.com,
www.ecoimpex-90.com. Property to rent, as well as apart-
ments, houses and land for sale.
Prishtina Property A-2, Rr. Edit Durham, tel. +377 44
13 06 15, fax +381 38 24 48 98, rent@prishtinaproperty.
com, www.prishtinaproperty.com. The first real estate
company in town with detailed photos of their apartments,
houses, offices and land online.
YREA Rr. Lekë Dukagjini 6/6, tel. +377 44 55 01 11,
yrea@live.com, www.acommodation.webs.com. Your
Real Estate Agent has long and short-term apartment rental.
Relocations
Matrix Relocations tel. +381 38 548 265, www.
matrixrelo.com.
Translators & Interpreters
V&R Rr. 28 Nentori BB 1/5, 1/32, tel. +386 49 17 34
47. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
pristina.inyourpocket.com
 KOSOVO MAP 47

Strolling along pedestrianised Bul. Nenë Tereza

pristina.inyourpocket.com Spring - Summer 2011

50 INDEX & STREET REGISTER

Index Hemingway
Himalayan Gorkha
17
22
Novo Brdo
ODA
33
24
Romantika
Route 66
22
17
Home 20 Ora 14 Royal 14
A&A 17 Cathedral 32 Il Passatore 21 ORTA 29 Rron 22
Academy Building 29 Click 24 Independence Museum 29 Osteria Basilico 21 Rugova's Grave 33
Adria 14 Clinton Billboard & Izzy's Deli 21 Paddy O'Brien's 28 Sara 16
Afa 14 Statue 33 Jashar Pasha Mosque 30 Palace of Youth & Sports Select Bistro 20
Amadeus 18 Clock Tower 30 Jazz Club 212 28 32 Shadërvani Fountain 30
Ambasador 12 Country House 22 Jewish Cemetery 33 Pandora 17 Skanderbeg statue 33
Amélie 21, 24 Crème de la Crème 24 Kocadishi House 30 Pandora Apartments 14 Sokoli e Mirusha 28
Archaeological Park 32 Cube 25 Kosova Art Gallery 29 Parcae 20 Stacion 29
Aroma Bistro 21 Depo 25 Kosovo Museum 29 Parku i Qytetit 32 St. Nicholas Church 33
Arte 20 De Rada 18 Le Siam Thai 22 Parku i Taukbahqes 32 Strip Depot 25
Avenue Bar 24 Dit' e Nat' 24 Liburnia 1&2 22 Parku Varrezat e Syri i Kaltër 24
Baci 12 Duplex 25 Lord 16 Dëshmorëve 32 Te Komiteti 20
Baraka 24 Elzar 24 Lounge Food & More 20 Pejton 14 The Cuban 25
Baron 18 Emerald 16 Luxor 14 People's Bistro & Wine Tiffany's 22
Bazaar 30 Ethnographic Museum 29 Lyon 14 Bar 28 Tingell Tangell 25
Begolli 16 Ex 18 Ma Belle 24 Peppermint 25 Tokyo 21
Bel Ami 17 Fatih Mosque 30 Maroon Pub 28 Photos of the missing 33 Trafik Galeri 25
Bistro Bar 24 Filikaqa 28 Metro Café 21 Pinocchio 21 Ulpiana 33
Bollywood 17 Fresko 21 Mexicana 22 Pinocchio Apartments 14 Ultra 20
Bosna 2 18 Friends Sandwich Bar 21 Mollëkuq ja 25 Pirinaz Mosque 30 Union Hotel building 33
Bosna 4 18 Full House 25 Monument of Pishat 22 Victory 14
Bukka 24 Gagi Café 18 Brotherhood and Unity 32 Pjata 20 Vila Corona 17
Café e Vogel 24 Gërmia Park 32 Morena 25 Pllaza 16 Vila Gërmia 20
Cantina am/pm 22 Gizzi Grill 18 Mother Teresa statue 33 Princesha Gresa 20 Villa Lira 20
Čao 22 Gorenje Niti Tiki 16 Mozaik 20 Princi i Arbërit 16 Xhema 16
Çarshia Mosque 30 Gračanica Monastery 32 Mumtaz Mahal 17 Prishtina 14 Xhoni's Bar 25
Catholic Cathedral 33 Grand 12 National Library 32 Proper Pizza 21 XIX 21
Cavallero 22 Great Hamam 30 National Martyr's Publicco 25 YREA 16
Centro 14 Guesthouse Velania 16 Monument 32 Puro 22 Zahir Pajaziti statue 33
Chalet Denis 18 Hamam Jazz Bar 28 Newborn 14 Real 16 Zanzibar 28
Chinese Restaurant 17 Hani i 2 Robertëve 18 Newborn Monument 33 Renaissance II 20 Zogu 16
Christ the Saviour Hard Rockers Club 28 Ninety-One 28 Rings 20

Hajrulla Abdullahu C-4 Luan Haradinaj A-2/3 Sali Mani C-1

Street register Haki Pava. C-1 Maliq P. Gjinolli B-1 Sami Peja B-3
Haki Tahaj C-1 Mark Isak A/B-2 Selman R. C-2
All the street names Bajram Bahtiri A-1/2,B-1 Hakif Zejnullahu B-4 Mbreti Zogu I A-3/4 Sejdi Kryeziu A-3
below refer to the Bedri P. B-2 Halil Alidemaj B-3 Mbreti Bardhyl B-1 Selami Pulaha A-4
Pristina city centre map Bulevardi Bill Clinton A-4 Hamdi Mram. B-2 Mehmet A.V. A-1 Shaban Polluzha B-2
on pages 48-49 and Bulevardi Nëne Tereza Hamzë Jashari B-2/3 Mehmet P.D. A-1 Shaip Spah. C-3
are prefixed with Rruga A-3,B-2/3 Haqif Tetova B-1 Meto Bajraktari B-2 Shefqet K. C-2/3
(Rr.) except for the Bulevardi i Deshmorëve Haxhi Zeka B-1/2,C-1 Migjeni A-2 Shefqet Zeka B-1
squares (sheshi) and A-4 Henrik Baric B-1/2 Mihail Grameno C-1 Sheshi Hasan Prishtina
boulevards (Bulevardi). Butrinti C-1 Henry Dynan A/B-4 Mirko Gashi B-1 B-3
Çajupi B-2 Hilë Mosi C-1/2 Mithat Frashëri A-1 Shkodra C-1
1 Tetori C-3 Dervish Rozhaja C-4 Hilmi Rakovica C-4 Mitrovica B-3/4 Sokol Dobr. A-2
2 Korriku B-3 Dimitrije T. B-3 Hoxhë H.Tahsini C-1/2 Mujë Krasniqi B-4 Sokol Sopi C-3
24 Maji A-1 Eduard Lir A-1 Hoxhë K. B/C-1 Mujo Ulqinaku A-3 Svetozar Markovic B-2
Abdyl Frashëri B-3/4 Emin Duraku B-2 Hysni Curri C-2 Murat Mehmeti A-1 Sylejman Vokshi B-3
Adem Gashi C-1 Enver Berisha C-1 Ibrahim B. C-2 Musine Kokolari A-4 Taip K. B-2
Adem Gllavica B-1 Eqrem Qabej C-2 Ibrahim L. B-2 Mustafë Hoxha C-2 Thimi Mitko C-4
Afrim Loxha C-1/2 Edmond Hoxha C-2 Idriz A. C-1 Mustafa Kruja B/C-2 Tirana A-2
Afrim Vitija B-2/3 Esad Mekuli B-1 Idriz Gjilani A-4 Nak Berisha B-3 UCK A/B-2
Afrim Zhitija B-4 Fan S. Noli C-1 Ilaz Kodra A-4 Nazim Gafurri C-1/2 Vasil Andoni B-2
Agim Ramadani B-2/3/4 Fazli Grajqevci A/B-2 Ilir Konusheci B-1/2 Nikolla Tesla C-1 Vushtrria A/B-1
Ahmet Ka. C-1 Fehmi Agani A/B-2 Ilaz Agushi B-1 Pashko Vasa A-3 Xhafer Deva A-1
Ali Hadri C-2 Ferat Dragaj C-4 Ingrid Cara C-1 Per. Dioklecian A-2 Xheladin Kurbaliu C-1
Ali Kelmendi C-3/4 Feriz Bl. A-1/2 Isa Boletini C-2 Perandori Justinian A-3/4 Xhelal Mitrovica C-2/3
Ali P.Tepelena B-3 Florim Y. B-3/4 Jeronim De Rada C-1 Pjetër Bogdani A-1 Xhemë Gostivari C-2/3
Andrea Gropa B-2 Ganimete Tërbeshi Jonuz Zejnullahu A-3 Prishtina C-1 Xhemajl Mustafa A-4
Antigona Fazliu B/C-1 B-4,C-3/4 Josip Rela A-2 Qamil Bala C-4 Xhemajl Prishtina B-1/2
Anton Ceta B-3/4 Garibaldi A-3 Kacaniku C-3 Qamil Hoxha B-3 Ylfete Humolli B-2
Ardian Krasniqi B/C-3 Gaspër Gjini B-1 Kadri D. B-1 Radovan Z. A-3 Ymer Alushani A-4
Arkitekt Kadri Gega B-3 Gazmend Zajmi Kajtaz Ramadani A-2 Rasim Kicina C-1 Ymer Berisha C-2
Armend Daci C-4 B-3,C-3/4 Korca C-1 Rexhep Luci A/B-2 Zagrebi A-1/2
Asim Luzha C-3 George Bush A-3 Krasni. B-2 Rexhep Mala B-3/4 Zeki Shulem. B-2
Avni Rrustemi C-1 Gjergj Fishta B-1 Lasgush P. A-2 Rifat Burxheviq C-4 Zejnel Salihu B/C-2
Azem Bab. C-1 Gjin Gazulli C-4 Latif Berish. B-3 Robert Doll A-3/4 Zija Prishtina B-1
Azem Bejta C-1 Gustav Majer B-3 Lidhja e Lezhes A-1 Rrustem Statovci B/C-3
Bajram Curri A-2 Hafez A. Korca C-1 Lidhja e Prizrenit A-1/2 Rrustem Hyseni B/C-2
Bajram Kelmendi B-2 Hajdar Dushi A/B-2 Lord Bajroni C-3/4 Sali Butka C-1

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