DRAPING

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This draping method is from Helen Joseph-Armstrong's text "Draping

for Apparel Design", Fairchild Publications, 2000
Measure Muslin Length

On the form, measure the

length of the muslin from the
shoulder over the bust to the
waist along the selvedge edge.
Add Extra Length

Add about 4" to this

measurement.

Clip through the

selvedge
Tear the muslin

Measure the Width

On the form, measure the

front width across the bust
arc along the cross grain
(top edge of the muslin)
from the center front to the
side seam. Add four
inches, clip, and tear as
before.
Draw a grainline on the front
piece 1" from the longest torn
edge.

Mark the Bust Level

Measure and mark 4" down from the top.

Put a second mark at the bust level.
Measure the form for this distance.
 Draw the Cross grain

Draw a line with the L ruler from the bust point.

Continue muslin preparation

Measure, tear and prepare a piece of muslin for the back.

Measure and mark 2" down from the top edge. Make a
second mark and draw a cross grain line at the shoulder
level.
Fold the front muslin piece along
the grainline you drew and
crease with your finger.

Start the Drape

Pin fold to the form, with

the cross grain line at the
bustline. Place your top pin
pointing down, and your
bottom pin pointing up so
the muslin does not slip.
Place crossed pins at the
bustline level.
Pin the Bust Point

Smooth the muslin keeping the cross

grain parallel to the floor and place
crossed pins at the bust point.

Pin the Shoulder

Smooth muslin
upwards from the
breast to the
middle of the
shoulder and pin.
Clip the Shoulder

Smooth the muslin up to the

shoulder/neck intersection. Slash the
shoulder seam about 1" away from
the neck.
Trim the Neck

Trim muslin at the neck down to about 1"

from the neck seam.
Clip the Neck

Smooth the muslin upwards and clip

the neckline by placing the point of the
scissors on the neck seam.
Clip the Neck

Then fold the fabric above the seam

into the scissors.
Clip the Neck

Then close the scissors. Be careful not

to let the muslin under the point of the
scissors slip.
Continue clipping the neckline at
about 3/4" intervals. Pin the
shoulder at the neck.
Pin the Shoulder Point

Smooth the muslin along the shoulder

from the neck, and pin at the shoulder
point.
Starting at the shoulder tip, smooth
the muslin along the armhole roll line
towards the midshoulder pinhead.
The fabric should bridge the hollow
area between the shoulder and bust.

Trim the
waist
Clip the Waist

Smooth and slash the muslin along the waist

toward the Princess line using the same
clipping technique as at the neck.

Pin the waist at

the princess line
 Front
Markings

Mark the
following:
•bust point
•3/8" below
CF neck
•mid-
neckline
curve
•shoulder/ne
ck
intersection
•shoulder tip
•mid-
armhole
Mark the waist at this mark
location for the dart •CF at
bottom of
waist tape
Pin Ease tuck at Arm eye
Smooth the muslin around the
Lift the muslin at the arm eye. armhole and pin just past the
Direct a 1/4" ease tuck toward side seam
the bust and pin. Cut away
excess fabric at the arm eye.
Pin the Bottom of the Side seam

Place a pin at the bottom of the

armhole plate. Smooth the muslin Pencil rub the side seam
down along the side seam to the
bottom of the waist tape and pin.
 Mark the top of the side seam

At the bottom of the armhole plate,

Remove pin from the ease
draw a short curved line. Draw a line
tuck at the arm eye.
down to the pinhead marking the
armhole depth. Draw a second
horizontal line here.
Measure the Side seam Ease

Measure 1/2" for side seam ease.

Draw the side

seam with a
ruler,
connecting
to the bottom
of the side
seam at the
waist. There
is no ease at
the waist.
Mark the bottom of the side Slash along the waist from the
seam. sides seam to the princess line
Pin a 1/4" ease tuck at waist Mark the Waist dart

Fold the dart excess towards the

center-front. If this excess overlaps the
centerline, trim it to within 1" of the dart
legs. Mark at the princess line.
Fold the Waist dart
. Pin the Waist dart
Bring the first dart mark you
made to this mark. Crease-fold Place the pins perpendicular to the
the excess fabric of the dart fold line of the dart legs.
inward.
 Release and Pin the Seams
Do not pin through to the form
Fold and crease the shoulder seam and
side seam under following the guide
marks. Peel back these seams and pin.
 Pin the Cross grain at the Arm
. Pin the Center-Back
eye
Fold and crease the muslin for the
Smooth the muslin along the cross
back drape and pin to the center
grain from the center of the back to the
back seam of the form at the neck,
pinhead of the mid-armhole (keeping
shoulder level, and waist.
the cross grain line parallel to the form)
and pin.
Clip the Neck
Pin the shoulder at the neck
Smooth the muslin upwards and trim
and slash along the neckline.
Smooth the muslin along the
Mark the dart intake 1/2" toward the
shoulder towards the Princess
shoulder
line, and mark the intersection
of the princess seam and the
shoulder seam
 Slash to the shoulder seam about
Draw a 3" line along the princess
1" from the neck
seam to direct the angle of the dart
Fold the Shoulder Dart Pin the layers of the dart together,
placing pins perpendicular to fold, but
Fold the muslin along the 3" line do not pin the form
down to meet the dart intake mark,
folding the excess toward the
centerline.
Smooth the muslin to the
shoulder tip, then mark and pin
the shoulder point
Test the Smoothness
Run your finger along the roll line of
the armhole to the cross grain pin to
test the smoothness. If loose or tight,
release the pin to adjust.
Mark the arm eye
Trim and clip the waistline to the
princess seam. Mark for dart.
Mark 1.5" (1" for juniors) from
the Princess line for the dart
intake
Fold the waist dart from the cross mark to
the dart intake mark with excess towards
the centerline. Place the pins perpendicular
to the fold line, but do not pin the form.
 Pin a 1/4" ease tuck. Continue to
Smooth, trim, and clip the muslin
smooth and slash the muslin along
along the waist.
the waist. Pin at the side seam.
Pencil rub, measure and draw Mark back waist
side seam as for front, but with
3/4" ease
 The Completed Muslin
Release holding pins. Carefully match
the guide marks of the front shoulder Remove holding pins and check the
seam and side seam over the back arm eye, center front, and center back
seams. Pin the seams perpendicular for any pulling or twisting.
to the fold lines, but do not pin to the
form.
Make Corrections

Mark any corrections needed with a red pen.

What will straighten the center front
seam?

Raise the shoulder - VR movie file

Lower the shoulder - VR movie file

Leave the neck (circle) pinned. This acts as

a pivot point.
Re-mark the center front at neck and waist.
 What will balance the arm eye?

Lower the front and raise the back -

VR movie file

Lower the back and raise the front -

VR movie file

Re-mark the side seam at the arm eye and

at the waist

This draping method is from Helen Joseph-Armstrong's text "Draping for Apparel
Design", Fairchild Publications, 2000