Goa: Fighting the Bane of Tourism Author(s): Frederick Noronha Reviewed work(s): Source: Economic and Political Weekly,

Vol. 32, No. 51 (Dec. 20-26, 1997), pp. 3253-3256 Published by: Economic and Political Weekly Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/4406201 . Accessed: 09/02/2012 12:13
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PERSPECTIVES
Goa: Fighting the Bane of Tourism
otherwise. Concern over adverse effects of tourism is no longer confined to middleclass Catholic Goans. Shigmo, rustic local Hindu religious festival, has been taken to the town with processions and streetdances. Over the list decadeor so, a new conceptof floats- much like those in the controversialcarnival- has developed. Folk art researcherssay this has resulted in a great loss to the originalityof the performanceswhich were earlierbased on folk dances and music. Complaints of commercialisation eroding the Shigmo traditions are being raised (The Navhind Times, March 17, 1997) Elsewhere, residents of Candolim and Calanguteare also voicing their grouse. Its locals say: "Besides facing electricity problems, there is a severe water shortage. The waterpipelinethatwas originallymeant for the villagers is now being utilised by the hotels. The transporttoo is insufficient to both (Gomantak transport locals andtourists" Times, November 7, 1996). In another revealing incident of local attitudes, 10 tourists from Kerala were beaten up by a group of villagers in Nuvem village, after in knockingdowntwo pedestrians anaccident (TheNavhindTimes,January3, 1995). Last May, four tourists received a "sound in thrashing" two differentincidentsfortheir Some "indecent highhandedbehaviour". and were ogling at young girls at a swimming touristallegedlyexposed pool, while another himself indecentlyto girls in Panaji'sCortir locality (Herald, May 10, 1997). Tourism and even official promotional campaigns have reinforcedthe stereotypeaboutGoa as a landof easy virtue,leadingto some strange tourist behaviour here. Citizens, meanwhile,have demandedthat the the governmentmakeits plansregarding Japanese village public. According to the group,theJapanese plansreleasedbycitizens' 'village' will take up 138 hectaresof land, Goa anddisplace519 personsin the northern villages of Harmal, Keri and Palyem (Gomantak Times, March 7, 1995). local daily, reflects Herald, a mainstream the ambivalent position that Goa's establishmenttakes towardstourism.Like others who arenow forcedto face the long-ignored problem, it is arguedthat tourismis now a fait accompli and that "all that we can do is to minimise the damage it can cause" (Herald, October 5, 1997). But, recently, it commented editorially: "Virtually the whole of the beachfront in Anjuna and some other beaches in Goa have been converted into foreign colonies" (Herald, March 10, 1997). One of Goa's former top officials, exchief secretary J A Almeida argues that uncontrolledtourism is a "menaceto Goa" and that the "presentuncontrolledtourism 3253

Frederick Noronha

The ill-effects of tourism in Goa are getting widely debated in the press and among the politicians and the public. Whilepeople's organisations are mobilising to preventfurther degradation of Goa's natural resources, the tourism industry in nexus with politicians is exploring new ways of making more and more of Goa's hinterland available to foreign tourists.
Newspapersin Goa aretoday also willing REPEATEDstatementsby those interested tourism,andtheirbackersin the to discuss other issues: full-moon parties, in promoting media,makeitoutthatGoaislargelydependentdrugs, police negligence, and sex among backnow. foreign tourists (The Navhind Times, on thissectorandthere'sno turning But large sections of the host populationin March7, 1997). Police continued to deny concernedwithtourism, thatthe so-calledbeachparties- wheredrug Goaareincreasingly taking has been repeatedlyconfirmed- are as ground-levelrealities show. In coastalGoa, land values have suddenly an open affair and that the cops shun their due skyrocketed to tourism.Hills whichwere responsibilityof takingaction(TheNavhind earlier green and untouched, have today Times, March 12, 1997). Gross violations of building regulations become closely coveted by realtorsand land speculators. Last March, chief minister continueto be reported(Herald, March30, Rane told the assembly that he 1997). Besides, environmentalgroups like Pratapsing is into an wouldconduct inquiry the 'conversion' thelocalGoaFoundation fightinga number of agricultural in Calangute,which was of courtroom battles against large hotels land being changed for agricultural purposes whichhaveviolatedthebuildingregulations. Local protestshave forcedthe politiciansto (GomantakTimes, March 19, 1997). proposalsfor golfis Calangute one of thebetterknownformer keep on the backburner fishing-villagesof Goa which has hada tryst courses, offshore gambling and also a with tourism since the 1960s. First it was Japaneseholiday village. But now thereare the hippies who were followed by charter hints from the politicians that the same are operators and others. Today it has been being re-opened. Fauz (JGF), or The JagrutGoenkaranchi reducedto a concretejungle, and all the ills of tourism can be seen in this small area. Vigilant Goans Army, a citizens' protest formedas a fallout Its village panchayatand its officials have movementagainsttourism now been the targetof many allegations of of the 1987 protestsin Goa, has chargedthe and misappropriation corruption.Villagers Goa governmentwith panderingto big and too have accused them in the gram-sabha luxury hotels. It demanded that the state Times, governmentmakepublic a 'white paper'on (villagecouncilmeetings)(Gomantak July 28, 1997 ). Much of the change in this the cost- benefit analysis of tourismin Goa sleepy village has been due to the booming (GomantakTimes, March 4, 1997). Experts agree that tourism is being tourismsector,which has led to a real estate promotedmoreto panderto certaininterests boom. are as Calangute, pressreports now willing and hotel groups, ratherthan from a longto concede, has changedfrom being a queen term plannedperspective.Speakingin Goa of Goanbeachesinto a "hellhole"for locals recently, Guido de Brabander, a former (Herald,July 18, 1997). Rapidurbanisation dean of theBusinessSchoolof theUniversity andunplanned developmenthastransformed of Antwerp Belgium said, "From the this coastal village into a veritableconcrete information I have gathered so far, there jungle, conceded the local press, which for seems to be no proper, scientific and duringthe even mildly, economic assessmentundertaken longhasfoughtshy of attacking, tourism here. Age-old storm water drains past 10 years". He found no systematic have been turnedinto a sewer in Calangute. analysison whatGoaenvisagedforthefuture, Even TheNavhindTimes,long considered or what was needed. "There has been no a pro-establishment daily,hasbeenforthright prioritieschalkedout, and much of the data in its criticismof goings-on atCalanguteand is based on opinion", he commented elsewherein the northGoa coastalbelt. 'The (GomantakTimes, August 23, 1997). state of confusion reigns all around, from TOURISM UNITE AGAINST GOANS road.A day's stay the beachto the approach Unlike earlieroccasions, protestsagainst on the beachis enoughto feel the chaos that prevails",said a recentarticle(TheNavhind the impactof tourismarespreadingto wider sections among Goans, geographicallyand Times, March 6, 1997). Economic and Political Weekly December 20, 1997

has backfiredon Goa and its people, who have to shoulderthe burdenof shortagesof food items, transport, water" (Herald, November 7, 1996). In northGoa's Morjimvillage, a Calcuttabased hotel group, Excelsior Hotels, has been chargedof using strong-armed tactics to displace locals at TembaWadda,on land purchasedfrom a landlord.Local gangsters were allegedly hired to oust tenant who had rights over the land, accordingto JGF, which has been closely following this issue (JagrutGoenkaranchi Fauz, May 22, 1996, press release). In Goa's southernmost talukaCanacona, villagers have been resisting the promotionof tourism.American Fullbrightscholar Karin Larsen has done an interesting series of reports highlighting the largely-unnoticedway villagers are respondingto the ingress of tourism in the area (Larsen Karin, The Navhind Times, January22,1997;January4, 1997;January 9, 1997; January 1, January 10, 1997). Media columns have paid scant attention to theseissuesearlier, unlessthereweresome dramatic like protests blockadeof thenational highway.Thisis one areaof Goa wherevillagers have put up campaignsagainst luxury and other resorts for a decade and -more, sometimes halting majorprojectstoo. InDonaPaula,a beachsuburbnot farfrom state-capitalPanaji which has grown as a destination for domestic tourists, local residentsrecently protestedplans to have a zoneinthelocality.Residents hawking voiced fearsabouthawkersdumpingwaste into the sea and using nearby beaches as toilets. Tension mounted in the beach-village of Calangute in August as an upmarket restaurant group attemptedto block access to the beach for one of their projects in Khobravaddo (Herald, August 6, 1997). In another controversial move of the Goa government,a 50 yearlease was signed with the Tata-run group(TheNavhindTimes, Taj June 20, 1997). Under this, the Agauda plateau has been handed over for, what is officially called, a "recreational park of international an stanSards", euphemismfor Disneyland. One festeringsore on the touristfronthas of beentheproliferation 'beachshacks'along the Goa coastline. 'Shacks' are temporary restaurants whichservelocal food to tourists. Oddly,the Goa governmenthas been doing all withinits powerto shutdown the shacks. Because of their lower prices and tasty the preparations, touristspreferpatronising the 'shacks' ratherthan done in expensive hotels. In a strange response, the Goa government attempted to close down the 'shacks' by laying conditions that would makeit almost mpossibleforthemto operate. The Goa government decided in the mid1990s to only allow those shacks to operate which have its approval. Ironically, there was a spurt in the number of shacks, as puttinga shack was no longer an economic 3254

Tourists coming to Goa also have their own problems. Drug related arrests and occasional deaths of tourists have been Goa's battleagainstdrugshasbeen reported. controversial. Kenyan national Stephen CHILD SEX-ABUSE Mwereiriahas complained to the National Childsex-abuseis another issue which has HumanRights Commission that officers of repeatedly made news. Though the other the Goa Police's anti-narcotics cell have fallouts of tourism can be as adverse, it is been trying to extort money from him and an issue like child abuse which strikes a framehimon drugs-related charges(Herald, chord of concern. May 26, 1997). Fasting convict SunderGiri JGF launched its 'bacche bachao' (save charged in May 1997 that he was falsely the child)campaignin April,to highlightthe implicatedin a drug case. Likewise, Italian Confortichargedthatpolice dangersof child sex-abuselinkedto tourism. touristCaterina Goa legislators,acrossthe partylines, united had stolen partof her money, planteddrugs to shoutdownwhatthey sawas a 'sensational andimplicated her(GoaPost, May 1-8,1997). issue'. But NGOs have chargedpoliticians Assaults on women tourists in Goa has of not "takingcognisance"of the problem been on an increase. In May the Calangute Economic and Political Weekly December 20, 1997

decision,buta sortof lotterywhicheveryone would like to win. The politicians also extended favours during election-time. This led to some of Goa's beaches getting excessively crowded in last two years, leaving little open space on the beach. There are other complicationstoo. Some locals chargethe shackownerswith 'racism' as they give shoddy treatmentto locals and fawn over the foreign tourists because of theirhigherspending It capacity. wasreported that shackownersat Morjim in north Goa had blocked access to the beach for locals, reserving it "exclusively for foreigners" (GomantakTimes, March 6, 1997). Of late, workers in tourism sector have also started to fight for the rights amidst repeatedcomplaints that the hotel staff in Goa continuesto be poorly paid despite the high cost of living. In August, workers of Paraiso de Praia hotel in Calangute struck work for non-paymentof salary for three months. Earlier, some 120 workers of the Taj's Fort Aguada Beach Resort went on strikein March-April1995. In March 1995, workersof the Ronil BeachResortalso went on a strike. This was ratherunprecedented since the insecure job conditions and optimismover futuretourismgrowthhadled to few strikes in this sector. Most hotel staff is paid low salary and employedforas littleas seven monthsa year. Profitsarelow, andhoteliersarguethatthey cannot hike wages if they are to survive. In March,hoteliersheld a meet to resolve not to hire out their rooms to charteroperators below certain tariffs (The Navhind Times, March 8, 1997). Due to what was till recently perceived as a major tourism of boom,a number realtors have also enteredthe market,only to further complicatethe situation.They have builtup large apartment-blocks,sold these out to expatriatesand others longing for a 'home' in Goa, and taken these back on rent to be hired out to tourists. This has led to undercuttingand cut-throatcompetition in an alreadydepressed market.Hoteliers are quite upsetby whatthey termas "apartment blocks masqueradingas hotels". Because charteroperators wantcheap accommodation, therehas been a madrushtowardsrent-back apartments.

and planning appropriate strategies to combat it. Instead,thegovernment"isexclusively engaged in a campaign of blanket denials coupled with anti-people measures like the barbaric eviction of prostitutes the in middle of the monsoons", accused the campaign groups (The Navhind Times, August 2, 1997). In a knee-jerkresponse, the Goa government conducted raids on the red-light area of Baina.Reports suggestthatthesex-workers were tipped off. Some 13 'suspectedchildprostitutes'were takeninto custody,buthad to be released once it was realised thatthey wereabove 18. Baina,the state'sonly openly allowedred-lightquarter, a squaliddistrict is along the port town of Vasco. Low-budget domestic tourists visit this place, where ironically,women come fromthe very states men come from, i e, Andhra Pradesh and other parts of south India. Recently, the government announcedits plans to clamp down on Baina, trying to appealto middle-classmoralityandtheGoan sense of a loss of theirbeach. Though it got localsupport fromthelocalshopingto recover theirbeach fromillegalsquatters, manyothers questioned the sudden interest of the government.It is widely suspectedthatport expansion and real-estateplans colfd' have more to do with the clean-up operations.A concern over morality and fears about the spread of AIDS are just a pretext. In a recent case KennethJohn Clarke of Britain,a suspectedpaedophile,was arrested on chargesof sexually abusinga young boy and lateracquitted.Goa has earlierseen one of the most shocking tourism-linked paedophilecase in India,whereFreddyPeat, a foreignerposing as an Indiannational,was convicted aftersexually abusingboys in his 'orphanage'. Official quarters have confirmedthatPeatmay have keptup to t50 boys in his 'orphanage' over the years. Reportshave also surfacedof a new variety of sex-tourism where Goans visit nearby Belgaumcity in Karnataka, shoppingfor sex (Goa Post, August 15-21, 1997). VICTIMISING TOURISTS

police arrestedseven securityguardsof the Ninja Services after they assaulted a party women.InColva,police oftourists,including arrestedfive persons in a rioting case. All the accused were employees of a luxury hotel in Majorda.Last March, a gang-rape of two young Swede tourists sent shockwavesthrough villageof Anjuna,aformer the centre of hippy tourists in the 1960s and 1970s. Subsequently,police announcedthe decision of creatinga new police station in Anjuna. Both the women tourists recently returnedto Goa to testify against the halfdozen migrant workers for raping them. One Britishtourist,identifying herself as A Harriss, has complained of having a time at the handsof a local youth, harrowing who demandedRs 100 for a local festival. "Aftertakingthe cash, they molested me in the most humiliatingmanner.The physical as abusesinflictedupon me areunprintable, severalhandsgrabbedme fromevery region of my body. I was pleadingandcrying,only to be called names", she complained (GomantakTimes, April 8, 1997). One relativeof a formerGoa ministertoo was chargedwith outragingthe modesty of a foreign woman tourist, Estrelamarie Schmidt. Danish woman Annelene Bein Larsenaccused a local of evicting her from her rented premises.
INFRASTRUCrURE? 'INADEQUATE'

On the other hand, businessmen and investorsin thehotelsector,andalso government officials, point to the inadequate for infrastructure tourismin Goa. But, at the same time, hotels are facing low occupancy rates, and those housing charter tourists complainof problemsin receivingpayments and chartercompanies keep bargainingfor lowerprices.Besides,theover-concentration in certainareashave added to the problem. In a 15 kilometreroutebetween Anjunaand Candolim,around650 governmentnotified establishmentswere situated.This worked out to 43 establishments per kilometre (Gomantak Times, November 6, 1996). Reportsfrom coastal areas say a numberof foreignersare setting up shop in the north andsouthGoabeachbelts.Some areinvolved incarpentry, beer running restaurants, shacks, fast food, travel and tours, excursions and adventuretourism (Herald,August22,1997). Tourism industry believes that Goan tourismhas not yet reached its "saturation point".Butothersview it differently.Former Goa chief secretaryJ C Almeida points out that the numberof tourists coming to Goa in a year almost equals the total population of Goa. 'To accommodatesuch an amount of population, we haveenoughprovisions do forwater,food, electricityandtransport? We must only accommodate that number of tourists (who we can manage) without creatinghassles for our own people", says he. Goa has meanwhile been scouting for

a suitable agency to formulate a tourism master plan for the state. Effortsto privatisesome of Goa's old and historic forts also ran into trouble as rival parties(one from Singapore,and the other an Indianluxuryhotel chain) went to court in July alleging favouritism and political interference thedecision (Herald,July31, in 1997). There were also insinuations made in court that officials had been influenced with offers of foreign trips for themselves and their families. This year, new charter flights started coming in to Goa from Holland, with Aquasun International bringing in tourists. Butover the years,the charter-bubble seems to be slowly bursting,even if efforts have been made to revive the same. The German markethas driedout. Later,Goa was charter promotedin England,Scandinavia other and destinations. Business circles have many complaints against foreign chartercompanies - profits are thin, bills are not paid regularly, they drive at hard bargains. But the excessive createdfor mass tourismover infrastructure the yearsmeansthatsome businessmenhere have no options but to continue with the charters. Falling costs are also a realityfor visiting tourists, sometimes to the dismay of businessmenhere. "Sevenyears back I paid 560 poundsfor a holiday.Today, I can come in for 299 pounds", one expatriate Goan confided. Expatriates allowed to use the are cheap charter flights provided they hold foreign passports. Goa's touristarrivalshave been growing upwards.But, since 1993, the rateof growth has been reducing. Tourism department officials dismiss this as a "temporary phenomena" (Sandesh,May 14, 1997). Four domestic (Indian)touristsarrivein Goa for every one foreigner. But, given the global disparity in incomes, the foreign tourists account for the large bulk (80 per cent, by some estimates, though these may be only of recorded of transactions) touristspendings in Goa. This explains the extra-preferential, if notobsequious,treatment theforeigners, to somethingthat has outragedboth domestic tourists and the locals. Reflecting the crisis in Goa tourism, a number of luxury hotels here have been compelled to go in for tie-ups with larger groups,to face up to the competition.Hotel Leela Beach announced plans to retrench some of its staff after its recent tie-up with the international chain,FourSeasons.Royal Goan Beach Club-Monteirohas announced plans to get affiliated with the "internationally-renowned" RCI Group. Averina,one of the few if nottheonly luxury hotels owned by a Goan expatriate,is now selling itself underthe HolidayInnchainand brandname. Duetotheentryof globalplayers such as Hyatt and Hilton, industryquarters

say a price war is imminent.To attractvisitors all year round,Leela Goa is offering4050 per cent off-season discounts (Herald, July 28, 1997).
POLITICSOF TOURISM

Goa's politiciansandofficials havetoured large areas of the globe in their bid to draw more tourists ranging from west Asia to SouthernAfrica. Politicians like long-time tourismministerWilfredde Souza have also pinned theirhopes on the completionof the Konkan railway project, to bring in more tourists. But it is a rnillion dollar question as to whethersuch large projectswill make Goa more attractive,or ruin its charm. De Souza also advocated the idea of "environment-friendly" coursesto attract golf the Japanese and others. To build new attractions tourists,other for options are also being explored. Private partieshave beguntaking"drovesof visitors from abroad"to interior Goa, close to the densely wooded Dudhsagar waterfalls on the boundary with Karnatakastate. This involves a ride throughone of the 'world's richest area in biodiversity (The Navhind Times, August 20, 1997). But occasionally, the politicians are compelled to voice the fearsandresentment. "Goa should not be sold in the name of tourism",says Indianlaw ministerandnorth Goa member of parliament Ramakant Khalap. For long the opposition leader in Goa, Khalap has been extremely slow in voicing concerns over tourism issues (GomantakTimes, May 30, 1997). Khalap has chargedthat 'excessive' developmentof tourism is being undertakenin Goa, and adds, "Misconceptions about Goa have of spreaddueto unplanned propaganda Goan tourism.Foreign companies are purchasing land on a large scale in Goa, and if this continues unchecked, there will not be an inch of land left for Goans. Rich tourists have alreadyturnedtheirbackto Goa.""We have hadenough of tourismdevelopmentin Goa. Hardly 10 percent of Goans have been benefited from tourismdevelopment. NonGoans have eaten the cream in the tourism sector. I am of the opinion that Goa should turnto the developmentof othersectors and professionals", Khalap said in a recent interview.He addedthattherewere"dangers" in over-selling tourism in Goa. 'Tourists visiting Goa have been complaining about insufficientwaterandpowersupply,besides the impropersewage and garbagetreatment systems", he said. Politicians like Churchill Alemao, who themselves have a stake in tourist resorts either on their own behalf or as fronts for other investors, have meanwhile continued to push strongly for tourism to spread to other areas in Goa (Herald, July21, 1997). Alemao has also pressed for Goa' s participation tourismconventionsin places in

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like South-EastAsia. Goa's departmentof tourism, in response to criticism about the fact thatonce pristinebeaches were turning dirty, said it was in fact maintainingsome of the "main"beaches of the state. It was cleaningpocketsalong the Calangute-BagaSinquerimstretch,but not the entire seven kilometre stretch, officials said. Similarly, some pocketsin SouthGoa were being kept clean. But beaches in Goa mostly remain without any facilities of toilets. "If ten thousandtourists spend a morning on this beach,where do they go to meet theirtoilet requirements?" a local shopkeeper asks from the Baga stretch of beach in North Goa. Instead of facing the problems, the Goa Travel and TourismAssociation has urged that a "stronglobby" is needed to counter any "adverse publicity" about Goa (The Navhind Times, February 12, 1997). But neighbouring regionslike Sindhudurg district of Maharashtra already talking about are fromGoa'smistakes" "learning (TheNavhind Times, June 4, 1997). Recently,-with earnings remaining low, the Goa governmenthas begun conceding thatmasstourismbringsin its own problems, As a solution, it suggests moving out of 'cheap charter tourism' and instead try attractinghigh-spendingtourists. This is a debatableproposition.Apart from the fact that Goa is hardly in a position to choose its type of tourist,the question looms large as to whetherthis can be a solutionto Goa's tourist problems. Foreigntourists, meanwhile,complainthat they are "totallysick" of being referredto as 'cheap chartertourists'. They point out thattheirspendinghelps the local economy. On the other hand, the spending of high spendingtouristsgoes backto five-starhotel chains, controlledfrom outside this state. It is the lobby of government officials and policy plannerswho are pressing for 'highspending tourism', it is charged. There are hints of local muscle power entering tourism. Earlier, there have been battles between shacks and luxury hotels, taxi-driversand coach operators,and even between luxury hotels, in north and south Goa. Some have also complainedthat local vigilantegroupshavebeenharassing tourists andcompelling themtoeatatcertain preferred restaurants(Herald, March 5, 1997). To complicate matters, malaria has spread particularly in those areas which happen to be part of the Goa beach belt, and which have seen a great deal of real estate construction. Concerned by having to cope with malaria in its backyard, the Tata-controlled Taj group of hotels recently launched a drive to control the mosquito-spreadailment in the CandolimCalangute belt (The Navhind Timnes, June 18, 1997). Touristsfeel thatthechanges takingplace on the beachbelt havebeenoverwhelmingly

bad - particularlyplaces like CalanguteBaga-Candolim,where concrete structures have been burgeoning. Said one tourist, who preferred writea signed articleunder to thepseudonym 'Concerned of Tourist':'The numberone priorityis to stop all speculative apartmentbuilding along the coastal belt. The concrete jungle spread has got to be halted at once, otherwise the reason for

people travelling over 5,000 miles to enjoy the natural beauty of Goa, will be lost forever"(Herald, June 21, 1997). "We are trying to attract tourists with modern architecture,loud and cacophonous music and roaringtraffic, without realising that a tourist comes to Goa to escape exactly the same things", another tourist said (The Navhind Times, March 4, 1997).

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