War Saw

N67
Poland - 5z (w tym 8% VAT)

UK - 5
EU (excl. Poland & UK) - 3
warsaw.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1641-5264
Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
WARSAW
Euro 2012
Tournament time
closes in on Warsaw.
Are you ready?
Copernicus
Science Centre
Hands-on fun for the
whole famil y
February - March 2012
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4
Warsaw In Your Pocket
CONTENTS
Arrival & Transport 14
The Basics 19
Culture & Events 22
Where to stay 30
Dining 38
Cafs 72
Nightlife 76
History 90
Sightseeing
What to see 93
Palace of Culture and Science 107
Old Town 108
Praga 110
Warsaw Uprising 112
azienki 116
Wilanw 118
Jewish Warsaw 122
Treblinka 125
Leisure 126
d 128
Directory
Shopping 130
Directory 136
Maps & Index
City centre map 139
City map 140
Country map 142
Street index 144
Listings Index 145
Feature Index 146
Contents
Its almost here! Its almost here! Warsaw has been
preparing, building and planning in anticipation of hosting
Junes Euro 2012 football tournament for the past five
years, and the home stretch has finally arrived. Read about
the new National Stadium and how to create your ideal
footballing experience during the tournament on page 8.
Photo: NCS/ J. Konik
Warsaws Copernicus Science Centre can easily take up
a day of your visit with over 350 hands-on experiments,
a robotic theatre, four laboratories and a 137-seat
planetarium. Tots and teens will find sections of the CSC
dedicated specifically to their interests, making the CSC
the ideal place for families. To get the most out of your
visit see our feature on page 12.
6
Warsaw In Your Pocket
FOREWORD
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright WIYP Sp.
z o.o. 1999-2012. Maps copyright
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name In Your
Pocket is used under license from UAB
In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,
Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
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clearl y marked as such. We welcome all
readers comments and suggestions.
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the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
Arriving in Warsaw during the span of this February/
March guide means youre getting an inside glimpse
of Warsaw in the home stretch before its foray onto
the national stage: The Euro2012 football tournament
kicks off here in June, and every restaurant, bar, hotel
and attraction is scrubbing up for the influx of fans.
And you? You get to be a guinea pig of sorts, testing
the waters well before the crowds arrive.
One area in which Warsaw has needed no assistance
is the nightlife scene. Seemingly overnight the city
has churned out so many must-visit hot spots that
our dance card is filled almost every weekend. Just
when Beirut (page 76) and neighbouring Bar Tektura
(page 76) set the standard for laid back cool, in comes
Znajomi Znajomych (page 83) to steal the title. The
two-level bar has everything you could want in a night
out: late night eats (pizza!), live DJs (playing keytars!)
and a smoking room (no going outside in the wintery
weather for a puff!).
Of course man cannot exist on booze and cigarettes
alone (weve tried), and our culinary wanderings have
brought us to some cant-miss spots that will surely be
packed even in the lead up to the tourist season. One
standout is Sony (page 66), local celebrity chef Magda
Gesslers seemingly billionth contribution to Warsaw
dining. But unlike some of her more staid ventures
Sony breaks new ground by being a snack bar geared
towards adults. Gessler offers up Polish-style canaps
and a boatload of wine choices, and the homemade
white sausage with onion jam is not to be missed.
After youve filled your belly check out our feature, which
takes an in-depth look at one of Warsaws newest and
biggest tourist attraction in the Copernicus Science
Centre (page 12). Were pretty sure we tried every
experiment and contraption in the modern building on
the Vistula, all in the name of research. Put our efforts
to good use by checking out the CSC and the attached
Heavens of Copernicus Planetarium yourself and we
promise you wont find a more enlightening experience
anywhere else in the city.
As always we sincerely hope you enjoy your time
in Warsaw and the guide we have put together,
and we welcome your feedback at editor_poland@
inyourpocket.com
It was a busy 2011 for In Your Pocket, with new
guides published in Bulgaria (Veliko Turnovo),
Netherlands (Tilburg, Utrecht, Amsterdam and
Sittard-Geelen), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (i-
benik), in Switzerland (Zurich), Slovenia (Posavje)
and in Belarus (Minsk); 2012 promises to deliver
many more new Pockets.
The number of cities we cover has now climbed past
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Europe In Your Pocket
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Editor Monica Wright, MGW
Research Manager Anna Hojan
Researchers Dorota Konkel, Aneta Roszak,
Maria Rulaff
Events Klaudia Mampe, ukasz Jankowski,
Vaughan Elliott
Design Tom Haman
Photography In Your Pocket unless
otherwise stated
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Centre
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8
Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com
EURO 2012
The decision to make Poland a co-host of Euro 2012 was
greeted with surprise both inside and outside Poland as well
as by jubilation that Michel Platini and his UEFA committee
had the foresight and courage to bring such a successful
tournament here. Once the hangovers wore off however it
became clear what a huge task the country had taken on.
The country was already trying to repair the damage of 50
years of Communist rule and decades of under-investment.
Progress was being made and EU entry 3 years previously
promised huge inward investment via the EUs Structural
Funds -- Poland was modernising already. The award of
EURO 2012 meant that this process would have to be
accelerated and a few new stadiums would have to be built
while they were at it.
Despite getting off to a potentially disastrous start when
UEFA threatened to suspend Poland and wi thdraw the
tournament after the government of current Prime Minister
Donald Tusk tried to impose change on the Polish FA (PZPN),
disagreements were settled and work began in earnest. The
task has been nothing short of huge. Motorways have had
to be built from scratch; an aged railway network and rolling
stock needed to be modernised; and the small issue of 3
brand new (and 1 updated) stadia had to be addressed.
While much has been achieved rumours continue to circulate
that UEFA is not entirely satisfied with the progress that
has been made so far. While Gdansk and Wroclaws entirely
new and Poznans expanded stadia are complete and have
already hosted competitive matches, the National Stadium
in Warsaw -- where the opening match of the tournament will
be played was only just completed in December with the
first actual game pencilled in for February 2012 (the original
completion date was June 30, 2011).
For fans looking to visit Poland for the tournament there is
plenty to be excited about: the best summertime weather
(temperatures in the 20s Celsius); prices for food and beer
are a competitive steal when compared to western Europe;
and the traditionally hospitable people of Poland are well
prepared to show their hosting capabilities for Europes
biggest football event.
While much of the news coming out of Poland is good at the
moment especially compared with other countries in the
Eurozone -- there are still a number of issues the country has
had to tackle. As you might imagine from a country of over
300,000 square kilometresthat is attempting a complete
overhaul of its dated infrastructure, there are plenty of issues
that fans should be aware of in advance.
Getting here
While getting to Poland will be a far simpler affair than
getting to Ukraine, navigating your travel to the country
requires some forethought. For example, Ryanair does
not fl y to Warsaw from anywhere whi l e unti l recentl y
domestic flights in Poland could only be booked with LOT
Polish Airlines and meant always being routed through
its Warsaw hub. All things considered your best bet is
to book flights to Poland well in advance. While Ryanair
do fly to Wroclaw, Gdansk and Poznan amongst others
you will also find budget carrier Wizzair, who serve all
four Polish host cities from various cities around Europe.
Polands national carrier, the aforementioned LOT, has a
number of direct routes to Poland from major European
cities and is also a member of Star Alliance, which adds
to your potential flight options. We recommend looking at
the game schedules and searching for flights between host
cities for the easiest transport. Eurolot and OLTJetair
now al so fl y some domesti c routes di rect, wi th new
routesbeing introduced all the time. Fans are advised to
look at the various carriers in the coming months to book
flights as a timesaving transport plan for getting between
cities for the games.
Warsaw itself
Football fans who draw Polands capital city are in for a
treat. After a long, cold winter Warsaw comes alive in the
summer, with the Old Town streets filled with restaurant
gardens that keep the food and booze flowing long after
the sun goes down. The city has taken its hosting duties
seriously and is creating the largest Fan Zone in history
(were talking room for 120,000 revellers), which will sit
in the shadow of Warsaws most recognisable landmark
from its Communist past, the gothic Palace of Culture.
When not cheering on your favourite team the city has
plenty of sights to keep you busy, from the spellbinding
Warsaw Uprising Museum (which will explain why the city
had to be reconstructed from ruins after World War II) to
the up-and-coming bohemian distri ct of Praga across
the Vistula River.
With the 16 Euro 2012 finalists now knowing where they
will be playing in Poland and Ukraine, there has never
been a better time to check outIn Your Pockets guides
to the host cities. With over 20 years of experience in
writing guides to the rapidly changing central European
region we have all the most important information you
need to plan your trip.
As the tournament approaches we will continually update
all our information and keep you up to date on whats
happening in each of the host cities Warsaw, Gdansk,
Poznan and Wroclaw in Poland and Kiev, Donetsk,
Kharkiv and Lviv in Ukraine via our colleagues there.
The tournament promises to be a landmark event in the
history of both nations while the visiting fan is promised a
fascinating experience quite different from those you may
have had at previous tournaments. In Your Pocket knows
these countries like no other travel guide publisher. Let
us help to make your visit as simple to organise and as
enjoyable as possible once you are here.
The full Warsaw In Your Pocket guide can be downloaded
in PDF format for freeand there is also an iPhone app
available via the AppStore.
Warsaw In Your Pocket is also active on Twitter (@
WarsawIYP) or find our Warsaw In Your Pocket page on
Facebook. Feel free to ask us any question you like about
the city or the tournament itself.
Euro 2012 In Your Pocket
10
EURO 2012
Speaking of the Vistula, its hard not to notice the most
exciting new addition to Warsaw that sits on its banks: the
new National Stadium. The most important of all the projects
connected to the tournament was the construction of 3 new
stadia and the upgrade of Lech Poznans existing stadium.
While the Wroclaw, Poznan and Gdansk stadiums have
all been completed and hosted major events the 130
million Wroclaw stadium saw the Vitaly Klitschko vs. Tomasz
Adamek fight last September Warsaws National Stadium
fell woefully behind schedule. Despite employing over 1,300
workers around the clock and setting a comfortable June
30, 2011 completion date (nearly a full year before the
tournaments start) little of the stadiums construction has
gone according to plan. Word that fifteen of the eighteen
flights of evacuation stairs from the upper tiers may not
have been properly secured surfaced and was promptly
followed by news that the electrical system installed was
not capable of powering the whole stadium. Additional work
to address these and other issues added time (the stadium
was considered completed in December) and money (to
the tune of 8 million PLN) to the much-anticipated project.
Yet all can be forgiven when you see the final result, which is
easily spotted from across the river in the Old Town: space for
58,000 fans and 860 journalists, with hundreds of 45-metre
support pillars driven into the ground to stabilise the 25
metres of war rubble the stadium finds itself atop. Priced
at 1.2 billion PLN, the stadium is quite impressive, and fans
of commie history will be pleased to learn that the Socialist
era Relay statue at the entrance has been preserved in a
nod to the sites past heritage. The stadiums official opening
took place on January 29 with five hours of local bands and
a fireworks display, with the first official football match the
Polish Supercup between hometown boys Legia Warsaw and
visiting Wisla Krakow taking place in February.
Getting around
Getting around the country to catch games at more than
one of these stadiums during your stay in Poland may cause
some problems. Major road and rail construction is ongoing,
and we can confidently say all the work wont be completed
on time. Add to that the strange composition of the groups,
with Wroclaw/Poznan and Warsaw/Gdansk far more natural
partners in terms of infrastructure available and distances
that will have to be covered than the actual groupings of
Warsaw/Wroclaw and Poznan/Gdansk. Driving in Poland,
while not completely discouraged, is not as straightforward
as it is in most western European countries and travel times
can be outlandish. Visitors are surprised to find there is no
direct motorway between Poznan and Gdansk, for instance,
and the 300km haul will take at minimum 4 hours despite
a stretch of 100km on the new A1 dual carriageway. On
the rails the Intercity train between Warsaw and Wroclaw
currently takes 5-6.5 hours and more trains are expected to
be added during the tournament, hopefully shortening that
journey to a solid 5 hours.
Accommodation
When hoping to ensure a comfortabl e and convenient
ni ghts rest away from home, earl y booking is al ways
recommended, but never more so than in this case. While the
accommodation options available in every Euro 2012 host
city have expanded dramatically since Poland won the right
to host the tournament in 2007, many rooms, and indeed
entire hotels, have already been reserved by UEFA and the
football family for the duration of the tournament, meaning
availability is already limited. While accommodation prices
are generally affordable in comparison to Western Europe,
the high demand around match days will no doubt drive their
value upwards. Rooms will likely become available again in
February, so its worth keeping your eyes peeled for more
accommodations.
Being the capital city Warsaw benefits from having the largest
array of accommodations for fans to choose from, and with
only the Russian and Polish teams from Group A choosing to
stay in the city the Russian team is based at Le Meridien
Bristol and the Polish team at the Hyatt, while the Greeks are
staying outside Warsaw and the Czechs in Wroclaw that frees
up even more space for you. Plenty of the reliable major chains
can be found here, including the Marriott (President Barack
Obama saw fit to stay here during his visit last summer),
InterContinental, Hilton, Radisson, Sheraton, Westin
and Novotel. If you want to dig a little deeper try Mamaison
Hotel Le Regina and Polonia Palace for two cream of the
crop accommodations without the corporate logos. One way
fans win by staying in Warsaw is by taking advantage of the
large number of mid-range hotels that call the city home
Campanile, Gromada, Golden Tulip and the Ibis hotels all
provide comfortable rooms at competitive prices. Sleepwell
Apartments on Nowy Swiat boasts amenities that will come in
handy, including mini-fridges home theatres in rooms that are
decorated in unique styles (think glittery carpeting and murals
of manga assassins) while P&O Apartments can give you all
the comforts of home in modern surroundings. If youre just
looking for a place to rest your weary head then a hostel can
easily fulfil your basic needs. We like Emmas eco-friendly take
on accommodations while Moon hostel has one of the best
locations in the city on busy Foksal street.
Matches to be played in Warsaw (all kickoffs CET)
Group A Fixtures
Poland vs. Greece, Friday June 8, 18:00
Poland vs. Russia, Tuesday June 12, 20:45
Greece vs. Russia, Saturday June 16, 20:45
Quarter final
Winner Grp A vs. Runner up Grp B, Thursday June 21,
20:45
Semi-final
Thursday June 28, 20:45
The Warsaw Fan Zone
We can safely say the Warsaw Fan Zone will be the Fan
Zone to end all Fan Zones. The location is a brilliant
choice: sitting in the shadow of the Palace of Culture,
Defilad Square is centrally located, offers 120,000
square metres of space and is easily accessible by
public transit. By all accounts this will be the largest Fan
Zone in history, with eight screens airing matches and
two stages for hosting concerts and live events. The
7,000 square metre catering zone ensures no one will
go hungry, and 400 bathrooms will hopefully minimise
lines. A commercial and entertainment area will offer
activities outside of matches and the chance to buy
all your Euro2012 gear. The entire Zone itsel f will be
fenced in with 13 entry and exit points, and on match
days you can expect to see over a thousand security
personnel ensuring your safety. The Fan Zone will be open
from 10:00 to 01:00, though on major match days its
expected to bump that time to 04:00. Your first chance to
experience the Zone will be June 7, the day before Poland
and Greece square off in the tournaments first match.
Euro 2012 In Warsaw
Tast e pol i sh t r adi t i on
U Fukiera, Warszawa, Rynek Starego Miasta 27,
tel. 022 831 10 13, tel./fax 022 831 58 08
www.ufukiera.pl
; O L V S K L Z [ Y L Z [ H \ Y H U [ P U > H Y Z H ^
asta 27,
8
an i nvi t at i on f r om
13
February - March 2012 warsaw.inyourpocket.com
12
COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE
While the worlds attention was drawn towards the highly-
visible, round-the-clock construction of Warsaws amazing
new stadium on the left bank of the Wisa, work was also
being carried out on the rivers right bank on a building that
might well outshine the stadium once the Euro 2012 hoopla
has died down. Built on time and on budget (well, just about),
the Copernicus Science Centre (CSC) -- which stands almost
directly opposite the stadium along the river -- looks set to
become Warsaws top tourist attraction for years to come.
Getting there
The centre can be found in the shadow of the Swietokrzyski
Bridge on the banks of the Wisa River. Served by buses
102, 105, 118, 128 and 162, a journey to the CSC from the
centre of Warsaw should take around 10 minutes. Buses
will drop you at the Biblioteka Uniwersytecka stop, requiring
a short walk around the corner to the unmissable building.
Al ternativel y visit the About us section of the English
language website www.kopernik.org.pl, where you can get
directions by car, by bus, or by foot by typing in your address.
Introduction
A rare example of European Union funding being used in a
genuinely visionary way, the CSC is many things, not least
(in the words of Polands Education Minister shortly before
the opening) an attempt to restate the case for science and
research in what can still be an intensely and deeply religious
country. In that sense, giving the centre the name of the man
who did so much to end the churchs monopoly of education
in the first place is little short of a masterstroke.
Not that Copernicus did it all his own way; in the aftermath of
the tragic death of Polish President Lech Kaczynski in April
2010 the presidents political party, PiS (Law & Justice),
lobbied heavily to have the CSC renamed for him. The request
was politely, respectfully, refused.
Given the stunning, futuristic sight all glass and steel -- that
greets visitors at the 93 million (half of which came from the
EU, half of which came from the Polish taxpayer) CSC today, its
a little ironic that the buildings origins are slightly more humble.
The idea of creating the centre first took shape at the informal
Science Picnics -- outdoor science, culture and art events
aimed at the general public that have been held in Warsaws
Rynek Nowego Miasta since 1997. The idea of the picnics
(which were organised by Polskie Radio, strangely enough)
was to bring popular science to the masses through hands-
on experiments. Each year, as the numbers of scientists,
universities, schools and members of the general public
taking part grew, it became clear that there was an expanding
interest in science in Warsaw, while the large numbers of
foreign visitors who came to the events suggested that there
was an untapped market in the region for hands-on scientific
learning. Construction of the CSC was the natural next step,
though it took a number of years to secure the site and funding.
Given the ad hoc Science Picnic origins of the CSC, it is
no surprise that the museum (i f we can call it that) was
opened in a slightly ad hoc, it-will-be-all-right-eventually
fashion. The opening show, Wielki Wybuch (The Big Bang),
directed by Peter Greenaway and Saskia Boddeke, was a
little underwhelming (and at certain points quite bizarre),
while visitors to the centre in the first couple of weeks were
greeted by an annoyingly large number of this exhibit is
temporarily out of order signs. Yet throughout 2011 as
the CSC rolled out sections of the museum to the public it
quickly became clear that this is unquestionably the very
best science centre in Europe, and today visitors can enjoy
a fully completed attraction.
Visiting Today
Arriving at the main doors at the north end of the building,
you will be met by the centres very own Robothespian. A
full y programmable humanoid robot, the Robothespian
was developed in Britain by the Eden Project in Cornwall.
He speaks, interacts, mimics and performs, and visitors
can prompt him to make a number of sounds, speech and
movements by the adjacent control panel. This will keep the
kids busy while you queue at the central ticket desk where
you will be given a set of credit card-style entrance passes.
You should keep hold of these as not only do they allow
you to enter and exit the building throughout the day, but
they will also become your ID card as you move through the
exhibitions, many of which allow you to record your results
(which are stored and then emailed to you afterwards).
Passing through the barriers, the first display you come
to is a huge swinging ball. The ball swings backwards and
forwards, periodically knocking over mallets that strike a
bell as they fall. These bells are lined up around the swinging
ball in a circle and although the ball swings in a straight line
backwards and forwards, the knocking over of the mallets
proves that the earth is constantly, actually rotating.
Having admired this, the interactive exhibitions begin. First
of all, register your card with your name and email address
at one of the terminals so that you will be identi fied as
you progress through the CSC. You currently have over
350 experiments to visit, spread over two floors and six
areas: Roots of Civilisation, Buzz! (for preschool children)
and RE:generation (for young adults) on the ground floor,
and Humans and the Environment, LightZone and On the
Move located upstairs. Each area demonstrates a range
of phenomenon by way of experiments, button pressing,
quizzes and in some cases physical exertion with the aim of
helping you to discover the secrets of the world around us.
Not only will you learn an awful lot, but the place is great fun,
especially if you are (or are with) a child. Theres a genuine
flying carpet, you can pilot a spaceship, take a picture of
your own eye (and then try to recognise it among the others
photographed that day), discover who or what is living next
to us in a major city, get involved in some crime solving or -
and this was our favourite - try to outdo animals at their own
game by out-hanging an Orangutan or beating a hippo in a
race at the arena. Theres plenty to do and you can easily
spend a whole morning or afternoon there trying everything,
particularly if you stumble on a day free of the ever-present
school groups.
Additional hands-on activities geared especially towards
teens can be found in the Re: generation Zone, where
vi si tors over 14 can experi ment wi t h psychol ogy,
soci ol ogy, economi cs or bi otechnol ogy through 80
multimedia exhibits we swear weve never seen teens
more ef fusi ve and exci ted as they tri ed to i denti fy a
monkeys emoti ons, or fi nish l yri cs to popular songs.
Theres also four interactive labs dealing with chemistry,
bi ol ogy, physi cs and roboti cs that of fer super vi sed
experiments for kids over 13 (instructions are in Polish
however) and an outdoor Di scover y Park fi l l ed wi th
installations lining the Wisa.
The at tached Heavens of Coperni cus pl anetari um
adds yet another opti on for vi si ti ng sci ence buf fs as
i t immerses attendees in 20 million stars thanks to a
giant spheri cal screen that surrounds the 137 seats on
al l si des. The seven di f ferent 40-mi nute fil ms (whi ch
requi re headsets for Engl i sh) are geared towards
di fferent age ranges and interests tots will delight in the
Sesame Street show One Worl d, One Sky whil e teens
will prefer the more mysterious Black Hol es: Journey
i nto the Unknown. Before each fi l m i s a 20-mi nute
li ve show (whi ch is unfortunatel y onl y in Polish, though
still interesting due to the impressi ve venue) about the
ski es over Warsaw that changes wi th the seasons.
School groups dominate the Planetariums seats during
daytime hours, and booking ti ckets in advance is hi ghl y
recommended when we dropped in only one of the eight
dail y shows had availabl e space.
I ts easy to declare that the centre is well -worth a few
hours of your time and will impress you with its design and
range of experiments. Factor in the main fl oor cafeteria
and the packed Sci ence Store (potentiall y the best spot
for chil drens gi fts in Warsaw) and i ts a one-stop day of
fun. The staf f is keen, very helpful and English-speaking;
we saw many interacting happil y wi th ki ds and helpfull y
controlling the chaos. I f there is one gripe we have i t
woul d concern the Roboti cs show, whi ch can be found
insi de the Roots of Ci vilisation section. The 20-minute
show we saw tol d an embarrassingl y bad story about
a robot that wants to become human in order to marry
a pri ncess, and used l anguage that seemed sl i ghtl y
out of reach for young chi l dren. The vari ous accents
can also be baf fling (one robot sounds like a drunken
Sean Connery) and the robots themsel ves are like sti f f
mannequins that move back and forth on a small track.
Compl etel y skippabl e.
Considering the size and scope of this operation, one minor
flaw in an otherwise awe-inspiring complex is a feat unseen
in Warsaw. And if truth be told, it would have been very hard
to imagine such a potentially world-class visitor attraction
being built in this city just a few years ago. Yet here it is, which
ought to be worth an exhibit in and of itself about how the
impossible can become possible.
Copernicus Science Centre (Centrum Nauki
Kopernik) G-2, ul. Wybrzee Kociuszkowskie
20, (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.kopernik.org.
pl.QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
Cl osed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before cl osing.
Note that the Planetarium has di fferent opening hours.
Open 09:30 - 20:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 21:30.
Closed Mon. Admission 22/13-16z, family ticket 57z
(2adults+2children). Use of the labs costs an additional
18/14z and are only available to non-school groups
on the weekends. Note that you must buy a separate
ticket for the Planetarium. Admission 18z/11z, fam-
ily ticket 47z.
Getting in
Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre
Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre Courtesy of Copernicus Science Centre
14
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
15
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
While Warsaw is generally well linked with both the outside
world and the rest of Poland, both road and rail networks
are undergoing major regeneration work, in part to ensure
smooth connections in time for the Euro 2012 football
championships. Improvement work also extends to the
airport, For the time being at least, travellers more used
to the streamlined transport links of the west may find both
patience and nerves severely tested.
By Car
Warsaw is located in the heart of the country and has ex-
tensive road links with other major Polish cities. Having said
that the competition on the roads front isnt fierce. Roads
leading into Warsaw tend to be of decent dual carriageway
standard, though once you enter the city limits Warsaw traf-
fic can become a serious problem - particularly during the
week. Most major hotels are located in the central area and
you should be heading in most cases for the Central Train
Station (Dworzec Warszawa Centralna) and its neighbour,
the Palace of Culture (PKiN). Parking in the central area
is generally available on-street where there are standard
parking charges payable at roadside machines. Most major
hotels will offer some form of off-road guarded parking. Be
warned that Polish roads and Polish drivers are not the best
especially if you have driven in western Europe.
Indeed, Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road
fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the
pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor
road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different
traffic and, most of all, drivers who have no consideration
for anybody else result in the common sight of mangled car
wrecks around the country. Police seem unwilling to control
irresponsible driving, and dont be surprised to see cars
shooting through red lights, cutting each other up and staking
a claim for the Formula 1 championship.
The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between
23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/
hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. Seat
belts must be worn at all times and it is illegal for drivers to
use hand-held mobile phones. Following the letter of the
law all cars should be equipped with a first aid kit, warning
triangle, fire extinguisher, rear mud flaps and right and left
hand outside mirrors. Flouting the rules will cost you 200z
(for using a mobile), 100z (not wearing a seat belt) and up to
500z for speeding. The legal limit for drink driving is 0.2
blood/alcohol level. Put simply, if youre driving, dont drink.
EU citizens may use their home driving licenses as long as
they are valid, however citizens of countries that didnt ratify
the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will
find their licenses invalid (though that hasnt stopped any-
one we know from driving their girlfriends car). Carry your
license and passport at all times when driving. For roadside
assistance call tel. 981.
Since April 2007 it has been compulsory for headlights to be
switched on at all times.
Guarded Parking B-3, ul. Krlewska 11 (Sofitel War-
saw Victoria Hotel).
By Bus
Coaches arrive and depart - unless otherwise stated - from
the Warsaw West Bus Station (Dworzec Autobusowy Warsza-
wa Zachodnia). Find a currency exchange in the main hall.
An ATM (bankomat) operated by PEKAO bank can be found
in the main hall to the left of Kasa 1. There is no Tourist Info
point, for the closest youll have to make the journey into the
Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance from ul. Emill Plater).
You can leave any bags you have at left luggage by following
the signs to skrytki bagaowe where youll find lockers (15z
for a large bag for 24hrs, 9z for a small one), as well as multi-
lingual explanations on how to use the contraptions. There
are five payphones located in one of the side corridors though
youll need to buy phone cards to use them. You can do that
by visiting one of the Relay kiosks in the main hall. Youll
also be able to buy SIM cards, prepaid cards and transport
cards from here. HALO taxis stand outside the entrance and
will charge you about 20z to the centre. Refuse a lift from
any of the smiling unlicensed operators who offer you a lift.
The bus running to the centre is found right across a busy
highway and getting there is an adventure in itself seeing
there are no signposts in the subway leading there. Basically
from the main hall duck down under the sign saying Dworzec
PKP, head down the stairs, turn right, follow the corridor to its
conclusion, turn right again - youll see two stairwells leading
to the surface. Take the left one and presto, theres your
bus stop. Confused? Not half as much as we were. Good
work Warsaw. To get to Central Station take bus number
127, 130, 158 or 517. At night youll be needing and N35 or
N85. The journey takes approximately 15 minutes so buy
a 2,60z ticket valid for 20 minutes. Remember to validate
your ticket on boarding.
Main Bus Station (Dworzec Autobusowy Warsza-
wa Zachodnia) D-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 144, tel. (+48)
703 40 33 30, www.pksbilety.pl. Q Ticket Office Open
05:30 - 22:00.
By Plane
Warsaw Frederick Chopin Airport (Port Lotniczy im. Fryderyka
Chopina) has seen numerous changes recently, in particular
the opening of Zone CD, a glass and steel giant that sits
rather awkwardly next to the older Zone AB. Collectively they
are called Terminal A, and the spacious and user friendly CD
now handles almost all incoming and most outgoing traffic.
The hallway connecting the zones houses plenty of ATMs,
exchange offices, tourist info, coffee shops and snack marts.
The taxi rank outside exits 1 and 2 offers three certified
companies: Super Taxi, Sawa Taxi and Ele Taxi. The 15-30
minute ride to the centre costs around 25-40 zoty, though
be on guard for unlicensed sharks theyll charge three or
four times that.
Cheapskates can get bus number 175 to the city centre
(which goes past the main Central Train Station) - find bus
stops in front of arrivals at Zone AB and Zone CD. Tickets
cost 3.60z and you no longer need an extra ticket for bag-
gage. Remember to validate your ticket on boarding in one
of the yellow electronically operated kasowniks. Buses run
frequently between 05:05 and 23:05 with journey time tak-
ing approximately 25 minutes. At night when the 175 stops
running travelers can take the N32 night bus, which runs
every 30 minutes into the city.
Warsaw Frederick Chopin Airport (Port Lotniczy
im. Fryderyka Chopina) ul. wirki i Wigury 1, tel.
(+48) 22 650 42 20, www.lotnisko-chopina.pl.
Warsaw Shuttle tel. (+48) 506 17 54 95, www.war-
sawshuttle.com. The company offers private airport transfer
services at competitive prices from 99PLN per run. Highest
quality for the best possible price. Call in advance to book.
Many of the great things we love about Warsaw are not
immediately obvious, especially to the first time visitor,
though we know at least one local who had also failed
to notice a couple of these titbits we spotted while out
researching this issue of the guide:
Street Signs (1)
Every single street in Warsaw is clearly marked by a
number of well-positioned and highly visible street signs.
It is almost impossible to go more than 100 metres in
Warsaw without knowing what street you are on. Whats
more, the signs are almost always colour coded: each
area of the capital has its own colour. As a visitor you are
most likely to see blue signs (for the south and south-
central part of the city) and brown (for the northern part
of the city centre, and Old Town).
Street Signs (2)
Theres far more helpful information on those street signs
than the mere street name, however. If you look closely,
the vast majority of street signs also include the numbers
of the building in the block to which they are attached.
Whats more, there will often be an arrow showing which
way the numbers climb. As anyone looking for ul. Mars-
zalkowska 135 or such like will know, Warsaws central
boulevards are incredibly long, and knowing which way
to go makes life much, much easier. Whoever it was who
decided to invest in the street signs (and they have been
up for some time now, certainly for more than a decade)
we hope that they became rich and famous. (We should
also point out that there are loads of older style street
signs and building numbers around. Many of these are
gems from the past, often in the form of lamps over old
apartment blocks. One day, we hope a keen photogra-
pher with trainspotting tendencies will collect them all
together in what would be our dream coffee-table book).
Tram Stops at Intersections
Much in the same way that arrows on Warsaws street
signs have prevented us walking kilometres in the wrong
direction, so a similarly cunning little arrow on the tram
system has saved us from getting on the wrong tram
hundreds of times. How? Easy: i f you look closely at
tram stops at intersections (where the tracks go in two
or even three directions), the numbers of the trams which
stop there will be grouped according to the direction they
travel in. Those which go straight on will be listed under
an arrow pointing straight on, those which turn right will
be accompanied by an arrow pointing right, and so on.
Again, hardly complicated stuff, but ingenious, and a
genuine case of travellers friend.
Three useful Warsaw tips
Alina Zienowicz, pl.wikipedia.org
Whats going on in Poland?
Subscribe free to the
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16
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
17
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Car rental
Budget ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650
40 62, www.budget.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Dollar Thrifty Rent a Car ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Air-
port), tel. (+48) 668 66 33 00, www.dollar-rentacar.
com.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Hertz ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650
28 96, www.hertz.com.pl. Also at ul. Nowogrodzka 27
(F-3). QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.
Local Rent A Car B-3, ul. Marszakowska 140, tel.
(+48) 501 21 61 93. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 14:00.
Avis ul. wirki i Wigury 1
(Airport ), tel. (+48) 22 650
48 72, www.avis.pl. Avis pro-
vide short-term and long-term
rentals, chauffeur drive service as well as cargo van
rentals. Theres over 1,000 models available, equipped
with air-conditioning, air bags and ABS for your guaran-
teed comfort and safety. Also possible to exchange and
swap cars. Also at Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (B-4, Marriott
Hotel) and ul. opuszaska 12a, (Wochy) QOpen 07:00
- 23:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00.
Europcar ul. wirki
i Wigury 1 (Airport),
tel. (+48) 22 650 25
64, www.europcar.pl.
One of the worlds biggest car rental companies offers
rental solutions tailor made for travellers (both short and
long term) that will suit all needs (15 different categories
of cars are available; Europcar is present at all Polish
airports and many other convenient locations). Europcar
creates flexible driving solutions to meet your individual
mobility needs. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
Joka D-2, ul. Oko-
powa 47, tel. (+48)
609 18 10 20,
www.joka.com.pl.
A wide range of cars from the baby Fiat Panda to the
spacious Mercedes E200 CDi station wagon. All cars
are equipped with power assisted steering. Satellite
navigation systems are also available. Special rates
offered to those who order through the Joka website,
and go online to find the latest seasonal promotions.
Q Open 09:00-17:00, Sat 09:00-12:00. Sun open
on request.
Sixt ul. wirki i Wigury 1
(Airport), tel. (+48) 22 511
15 55, www.sixt.pl. One of
the worl ds largest and ol dest
car rental compani es of fers a choi ce of sol uti ons
from short and l ong rental periods to holi day cars.
Theres even a fleet of limousines i f youre interested.
Vehi cl es range from Seats to l uxur y Mercedes.
Bonuses i ncl ude GPS and Si xt cards. Al so at ul .
Emilii Plater 49 (A-4, InterContinental Hotel). QOpen
07:00 - 22:00.
Tourist info can be found at the Service Point in the main hall
or across the street at the Palace of Culture - - just look for the
i sign (Open 08:00-18:00). They can provide you with maps,
etc. Tickets for the public transport system can be bought from
most of the newspaper kiosks. Left luggage is located in the
underground corridor that runs below the main hall. Look for
Przechowalnia Bagau, where stewards will look after your bag
in return for 7.10z per day. Coded lockers are also available
- 15z for 24hrs for a big bag, 9z for a small one. Payphones
can be found in the underground tunnels with cards available
from all the kiosks. Connect to a Polish network via mobile by
getting SIM and pre-paid cards from the same newsagents.
Both entrances of the main hall are covered by taxi ranks,
and by passing via tunnels under the main road youll find bus
and tram stops though once you enter the signs are more
of a hinderance than a help and you may never be seen or
heard of again. Officially sanctioned ELE taxis can be found
at the rank on Aleje Jerozolimskie and SAWA taxis can be
found rank on the Zote Tarasy side.
On the ground level there is a travel office run by Polish rail. Find
it on the Zote Tarasy side of the building to the right of the stairs
heading down to the platforms under the Centrum Obslugi Klienta
sign (info line 197 57, www.intercity.pl). Open from 09:00 - 19:00,
the multi-lingual staff (they can even assist the deaf) can search
for the cheapest/easiest connection, sell you international and
domestic tickets, and can help plan your trip for you.
A selection of outlets selling food and drink are available
though quality is questionable. Head to Coffee Heaven for a
range of good coffee, hot and cold snacks which are available
to take-away. McDonalds can also be found by following one
of the many signs. If you have time to kill, Champions in the
Marriott can be reached via the underground passageway
and offers a far better place to sit and wait than the station
itsel f, as does the nearby Zote Tarasy shopping centre.
Dont be alarmed to find Warszawa Centralna used as a
drop-in centre by Warsaws homeless population - while
most are harmless some like to pass their time being drunk
and abusive. Bizarrely, while the Polish rail staff manning the
ticket booths are mono-lingual (try booths number 14 and
16, which now claim English-speaking staff), the tramps in
Centralna seem adept at begging in a multitude of tongues.
Warszawa Wschodnia Train Station H-1, ul. Kij-
owska 16, tel. (+48) 22 473 72 97. Q Open 24hrs. Note
that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot
be made between 00:00 - 01:30.
Warszawa Zachodnia Train Station D- 4, ul.
Tunelowa 1, tel. (+48) 22 474 50 12. Q The train station
and ticket office are closed between 00:00 - 3:30.
By Train
Warsaw Central Station (Warszawa Centralna) is exactly
what it says on the tin: central. What it isnt is easy to navi-
gate, and ongoing renovations can add to your frustration.
Many of the stations shops are still empty, but tenants and
amenities are coming. From alighting the train you should
take one of the two facing escalators (i f theyre working)
in the centre of the platform, which will lead you up into
one of the underground passages that flank the main hall.
Whichever side you come up on you will be one level below
ground level and the ticket hall. Kantors can be found in the
underground passageway between Centralna and the Mar-
riott. Signs for ATMs (bankomats) can be found everywhere,
and they can be found in the main hall, in the underground
passageway between Centralna and the Marriott or over
at the Zlote Tarasy shopping center depending on where
youre heading.
The days when cash
bells would ring when-
ever a cab driver would
hear a foreign accent
might have passed, but
its still always better
to ri ng ahead rather
than just hailing a taxi
in the street. In particular avoid drivers who hawk their
services in the arrivals hall at the airport; weve heard
plenty of horror stories.
All the companies we list will usually have someone on
their switchboard who can speak English. MPT, the state-
run firm, can boast the most reliable reputation. But you
wont find many cheaper than Super Taxi. Find ELE taxis
on the Marriott tower side of the central station; its the
second row of cars. Tipping is not expected, but if your
driver gets you from A to B without a detour through the
countryside then by all means, feel free
Ele Taxi tel. (+48) 22 811 11 11, www.eletaxi.pl.
Halo Taxi OK tel. (+48) 22 196 23,
www.halotaxiok.pl.
Merc Taxi tel. (+48) 22 677 77 77,
www.6777777.pl.
MPT tel. (+48) 22 191 91, www.taximpt.pl.
Sawa Taxi tel. (+48) 22 644 44 44,
www.sawataxi.com.pl.
Super Taxi tel. (+48) 22 196 22, www.supertaxi.pl.
Taxis
18
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
19
BASICS
Public Transport
www.ztm.waw.pl. Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram
system criss-crossing the city as well as a good, but very
limited, metro system running from north to south. Over
1,200 buses operate in and around the city, and most run
from between 05:00 and 23:00. After that night buses run
on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the
letter N, followed by a two digit number. Fast buses (marked
with red digits) skip the smaller stops.
Tickets (all valid for use on metro, bus and tram) can be
bought from some kiosks bearing the green and yellow
RUCH logo, or anywhere with a sign reading Bilety. There
are now also a series of ticket machines with instructions
in English dotted around the city, and English translations
are printed on tickets.To save yoursel f the hassle of work-
ing out which ticket you need or trying to buy to explain it
to the lady in the kiosk.
A standard public transport single ticket costs 3.60z.
If youre travelling to the further reaches of Warsaw youll
be needing a ticket that covers both zones 1 and 2 - these
are priced at 5.60z. Note that the airport is in Zone 1. Still
with us? Good. Tickets are also available for specific time
periods and come valid for 20, 40 and 60 minutes. These
are priced at 2,60z, 3,80z and 5,20z. Tickets valid for 24
hrs are priced at 12 or 19z if travelling through both zones.
Three day tickets cost 24z, or 38z for both zones. Children
up to the age of 7 years travel for free (have proof of age
ID handy). Everyone else pays full fare unless in possession
of an ISIC card. This entitles you to buy a reduced ticket
(ulgowy) which costs approximately 50% of the full fare.
You can buy single tickets from the driver, though you must
have exact change. Once youve got a ticket you will need to
validate it in one of the box-style kasowniks, thus activating
the magnetic strip on the
back. On the metro this must
be done before you get on
board. It is no longer neces-
sary to buy an extra ticket
for animals or large pieces
of l uggage. Pl ai n cl othes
ticket inspectors regularly
stalk the lines, dishing out
180z fines for those without
valid tickets. They often dont
look very official and you are
within your rights to request
identification, or even do as
the locals do, and attempt to
bargain them down.
Electricity
El ectri ci ty i n Pol and i s 230V, 50Hz AC. Pl ug sockets
are round wi th two round-pi n sockets. Therefore i f you
are comi ng from the UK or I rel and you are defi ni tel y
goi ng to need a pl ug convertor. The best pl ace to pi ck
these up i s at home as our resi dents Bri ts wi l l testi fy
al though i f you do arri ve wi thout a covertor you can try
your hotel conci erge or recepti on. I f they don t have
one the best pl ace to pi ck one up i s at one of the bi g
el ectri cal outl ets often si tuated on the edge of town.
Our advi ce i s save yoursel f the hassl e and get one i n
the ai rport as you l eave.
Health & Emergency
I n case of an emergency those di al l i ng from a l and l i ne
or publ i c payphone shoul d use the fol l owi ng numbers:
999 for an ambul ance, 998 for the fi re bri gade and
997 for the pol i ce. Mobi l e phone users shoul d cal l
112 to be for warded to the rel evant depar t ment.
Engl i sh speaki ng assi st ance i s not necessar i l y
guaranteed, and rests on the l i ngui sti c capabi l i ti es
of the cal l operator.
Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates,
of which a comprehensive list can be found in the directory
section. If youve run out of money, however, then silly you.
No embassy will bail you out, and and your hopes will rest
on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks and many
exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such trans-
actions, just keep an eye out for anywhere displaying the
Western Union logo.
For a list of clinics and hospitals check the directory section
at the back of this guide.
Territory
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers
and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders
the Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic
Sea (528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km),
Germany (467km), Li thuania (103km), the Russian
exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and,
Ukraine (529km).
Longest River
Warsaw is split by the river Vistula (Wisa). At 1,047km it
is Polands longest river and flows into the Bay of Gdask
(Zatoka Gdaska).
Highest Point
The highest peak in Poland is Rysy (2,499 metres) found
in the Tatra mountains in the south of Poland.
Population (2010)
Poland - 38.200.037
Warsaw - 1.720.398
Krakw - 756.183
d - 737.098
Wrocaw - 632.996
Pozna - 551.627
Gdask - 456.967
Katowice - 306.826
Sopot - 38.141
Local time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When its 12:00 in Warsaw its 11:00 in
London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo.
Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the
last Sundays of March and October.
Twin Towns
Astana, Berlin, Budapest, Chicago, Dsseldorf, Grozny,
Hague, Hamamatsu, Hanoi, Harbin, Kyiv, Moscow, Ile-de-
France, Istambul, Riga, Rio de Janeiro, Seoul, St. Etienne,
St. Petersburg, Taipei, Tel Aviv, Toronto, Vienna, Vilnius
Facts & Figures
www.warsawcard.pl.
Pl ease note that at
press time the Warsaw
tourist card had been
suspended wi th no
known date for its return.
We wi l l update our
information regarding
the City Card as soon as more information is released.
City Card
Institute of Meteorology and Water Management,
www.imgw.pl
Climate
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Customs
If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take
10 litres of spirits, 90 litres of wine and 110 litres of beer.
Most countries will not allow more than 800 cigarettes from
Poland. If purchasing art or books, you need to consider their
age and value. In order to leave the country, art must be
either less than 50 years old or under a certain value (varies
depending by type; photos <6,000z, other art <14,000z,
for example); if one of these conditions is met, the gallery
curator can then provide you with a zawiadczenie (permis-
sion document) describing the artworks price and when and
where it was created. If the work exceeds the permitted age
and value, you must get permission from the Wojewdzki
Konserwator Zabytkw (Regional Curators Office) to take
it out of Poland; bear in mind that this process will likely take
2-3 months. Books must be less than 100 years old, or under
6,000z in value in order to leave the country; if neither ap-
plies, permission must be obtained from the National Library.
Obviously, problems arise when purchases are made at
bazaars or flea markets where vendors cannot provide the
necessary documents; if there is any doubt about the value
or age of your purchase, we suggest you visit an Antykwariat
(antiques dealer see shopping) for advice.
Warszawa Centralna Train Station A/B- 4,
Al. Jerozolimskie 54, tel. (+48) 197 57. For many
their stay in Warsaw will begin in one of its most brutal
buildings: Central Train Station or Centralna as it is
known locally.
Financed by massive Western loans the monster was
completed on December 5, 1975, officially opened just ten
days before the 7th rally of the Polish Communist Party.
Guest of honour was Soviet leader comrade Brezhnev,
and a special entrance and reception room were built for
him. Built in a rush, primarily by soldiers of the Polish army,
the structure was erected at lightning speed so as to be
completed to coincide with Brezhnevs visit; although the
site of the station was officially picked in 1946, work on the
design would only begin in 1971. It was built at breakneck
pace in under 1,100 days, and as such vital technical
tests were never conducted - the station would be under
constant renovation for the next ten years.
Nonetheless, it was seen as an architectural showpiece
of the time, so much so that it was awarded the groovy
sounding Mr Warsaw prize for architecture in 1975. Over
the next few years coachloads of peasants were bussed
in to marvel at it, and fashion shows frequently held in
the main concourse. Designed by Arseniusz Romanowicz,
Centralna was constructed using 12,500 tons of steel,
8,000m2 of glass and 53,000m2 of concrete. Floor
beams, automatic doors and metal elements used in the
faade were imported from Switzerland, escalators from
Paris and Brussels and the electronic clocks from Italy.
Featuring four 300 metre long underground platforms
Centralna touted the first moving ramp in Poland, as well
as the first escalator not produced in the USSR (it was
in fact built in France to an American design). Its halcyon
days also saw the construction of a now non-existent
Italian marble fountain.
Today it stands somewhat at odds with the gleaming
21st century super structures that surround it. Although
that is changing, with the first stage of the major renova-
tion already completed.
Despite a large number of the local population wanting
to see the whole thing dynamited off the face of Warsaw
(partly because of its communist connections, partly
because they considered it an eyesore) it was decided
to give the old girl a facelift. In addition to the clean up
and fixing of all public areas, the whole building will be
adapted for the needs of the disabled, the passenger
visual and audio communication systems will be
modernised and the whole station will be made
suitable for the millions of passengers who use it each
year with more places to sit, a new modern food court
(over the current ticket offices), adding exhibition space
as well as making the whole complex part of a central
transport hub. While work continues extra staff have
been laid on to help confused tourists as well as to assist
people to the platforms.
Costing 47 million zlotys and pencilled in for completion
before the EURO 2012 championships in June, we have
to say were delighted they decided to keep what is an
astonishing legacy to Polands communist past. Q
Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat
reservations cannot be made between 00:00 - 01:30.
Warszawa Centralna
20
BASICS
21
BASICS
pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. The
brevity and dexterity of Warsaws criminal community has led
to a spate of thefts from unattended coats. Those travelling
by car are advised to use a guarded car park. Robberies on
overnight trains are not unheard of, especially on the routes
connecting Warsaw with Prague and Berlin; book a couchette
or a sleeper cabin. Avoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi
gits by using clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind
around the train station and airport. The officially sanctioned
state company MPT (tel. 22 19191) is possibly the best bet,
and their switchboard features English speaking operators.
The vagrants and pondlife who gather around the train sta-
tion are by in large harmless and easily ignored. Warsaws
right bank has traditionally enjoyed something of a no-go
reputation, though is now fast becoming ever more trendy.
Toilets
Generally speaking toilets in Poland come marked with a
circle for women, and a triangle for men. Although the habit
is gradually dying some restaurants and bars still charge
a nominal fee for use of their facilities - no matter how
much cash youve already spent in the establishment. This
is a practice also used in train stations and most public
conveniences.
Toilet C-4, ul. Krucza 51.
Toilet B-1, ul. Krzywe Koo 22/24.
Many Poles, particularly younger people, have a fairly healthy
command of the English language. Many will also be adept at
other European languages with German being the most commonly
spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have forgotten
the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a
reasonable understanding.
Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal and will often
result in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your
flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth
your time in Poland and may even win you friends and admirers.
On the positive side Polish sounds as it appears. This is a great
help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination
of letters. Many letters represent the same sounds as they do in
English. Below we have listed those particular to Polish.
Basic pronunciation of Polish vowels
sounds like on in the French bon
sounds like en as in the French bien
is an open o sound like oo in boot
Basic pronunciation of consonants
c like the ts in bits
j like the y in yeah
w is pronounced like the English v
like the w in win
like the ny in canyon
cz and like the ch in beach
dz like the ds in beds
rz and like the su in treasure
sz and like the sh in ship
drz like the g in George
r is always rolled and stress is generally always on the last but
one syllable.
Think youve got that? Here are some words and phrases to get
you started.
Civilities
cze (cheshch) hi/bye
dzie dobry ( jen do-bri) good morning/
afternoon
dobry wieczr (do-bri vyeh-choor) good evening
dobranoc (dobrah-nots) good night
tak (tahk) yes
nie (nyeh) no
prosz (prosheh) please
na zdrowie (nah zdrovyeh) cheers
dzikuje ( jen-koo-yeh) thank you
przepraszam (psheh-prasham) sorry
kocham ci (koham tshe) I love you
Mam na imi (mam nah ee-myeh) My name is
Jestem z Anglii (yehstem zanglee) I am from England
Necessities
Gdzie s toalety? (gdjeh song toalety) Where are the toilets?
Czy mwi pan/pani
po angielsku?
(che moovee
pan/panee po
angyelskoo?)
Do you (male/female)
speak English?
Nie mwi po
polsku
(nyeh moovyeh po
polskoo)
I dont speak Polish
Prosz to napisa (prosheh toh
napeesatch)
Please write it down
Czy mona tu pali (che mohzhnah too
paleech?)
Can I smoke here?
Jedno piwo
poprosz
(yedno peevo poh-
prosheh)
One beer please
Numbers
1 jeden yehden
2 dwa dva
3 trzy tshi
10 dziesi jayshench
General
Airport lotnisko
Train station dworzec pkp
Bus station dworzec pks
Right/left prawo/lewo
One ticket to jeden bilet do
First/second class pierwsza/druga klasa
Language smarts
Internet cafes
Arena B-4, Pl. Defilad 1 (Metro Station Center),
tel. (+48) 22 620 80 32, www.arenacafe.pl. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. 6z/hour, 10z/2 hours,
18z/4 hours.
Cyber Cafe ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (in Courtyard by
Marriott), tel. (+48) 22 650 01 72, www.court-
yardwarsawairport.com. Polands best internet cafe.
Seating sixty people the Courtyard Cyber Cafe offers
high-speed wireless access, as well as a menu that puts
most Warsaw cafes to shame. 20z per hour. QOpen
08:00 - 23:00.
Post
Central Post Office (Urzd Pocztowy Warsza-
wa 1) A-3, ul. witokrzyska 31/33, tel. (+48) 22
505 33 16, www.poczta-polska.pl. Q Open 24hrs.
Post Office (Urzd Pocztowy Warszawa 120)
A-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 54 (Central Train Station),
tel. (+48) 22 825 77 18, www.poczta-polska.pl.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Public Phones
With the advent of disposable mobiles even intrepid
tramps walk around with a phone to their ears. Yet pay
phones still exist, though for what purpose were not
sure. Almost all of them require you use a phone card
with an electronic chip, which can be obtained at most
kiosks, but not all, so it may take some perseverance
to track one down. The magic words are Prosz kart
telefoniczn. These cards run down very fast if you are
calling cell phones, so if you plan on making many such
calls, get the biggest one you can find. Ring-a-ling.
Mail & Phones
Jaywalking
A peculiar sight you might come across, particularly if you are
from a country which has no (or doesnt respect) jaywalking
laws, is that of a crowd of people standing obediently at a
crossing waiting for the lights to change. This peculiarity
has extra effect if you are aware of how little Poles respect
the rules of the road in a vehicle, where it often feels like a
survival of the fittest. The reason for the obedience of this
particular rule is the fact that the local city police (Stra
Miejska) will quite freely give you a 100z fine for crossing a
road at a place where no crossing is marked or a 100z fine
when the walk light is red. And dont think you are exempt
by being a foreign visitor. You are subject to the law too and
your non-residency means you will need to pay the fine on
the spot (the helpful chaps will even accept foreign currency).
Money
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100z
notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents,
public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and bar,
will often refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying
as coins can be, do carry small change for such moments.
Notes come in denominations of 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10
zotys, and there are 1, 2 and 5 zoty coins. One zoty equals
100 groszy, and they come divided into 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and
50 groszy coins.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and
anywhere with a sign screaming kantor and you will also
be able to withdraw currency at a bankomat using your ATM
card. A Kantor will often provide better value than the banks in
your home country or the ATM, although for obvious reasons
be very wary of Kantors in the airports, bus stations and
close to tourist sights - the rates in these arent designed
to favour the tourist.
The Polish currency has been exceedingly strong in recent
years and the value of the dollar has nearly halved, while you
will be getting 25-40% less zoty for your euros and sterling
than a couple of years back. Having said that Poland, i f
not Warsaw, remains comparatively cheap to mainstream
Western Europe.
Religion
For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of
Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions
and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national
unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many
turned to the church for solace and during the communist
era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously
held in churches.
The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genu-
ine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more
profound than cynics in the West can understand. Many Poles
genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly started
the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe.
Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholicism
very seriously. Those used to the more easy-going habits of
the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at
first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that
occur from time to time and the droves that flock to mass.
Safety
In general Warsaw is far safer than most Western cities, and
visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does
exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets
working tram and bus routes by the train station. If youre
in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser
Pri ces i n Poland are still fai rl y competi ti ve despi te
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices.
Market values as of 17th January 2012
based on 1 = 4.37z
Product Price (z) Price ()
McDonald's Big Mac 9.10 z 2.08
Snickers 1.49 z 0.34
0.5ltr vodka (shop) 19.99 z 4.57
0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.89 z 0.66
0.5ltr beer (bar) 10.00 z 2.29
Loaf of white bread 1.99 z 0.46
20 Marlboros 11.80 z 2.70
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.93 z 1.36
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 3.60 z 0.82
Market values
April 8, 2012 Easter Sunday
April 9, 2012 Easter Monday
May 1 Labour Day
May 3 Constitution Day (May 3, 1791)
May 27, 2012 Pentecost Sunday
June 7, 2012 Corpus Christi
August 15 Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, also
Polish Army Day
November 1 All Saints Day
November 11 Independence Day (Nov 11, 1918)
December 25 First Day of Christmas
December 26 Second Day of Christmas
January 1 New Years Day
January 6 Three Kings
National Holidays
PLN US$ Euro Pound
3.42z = $1 4.37z = 1 5.26z = 1
1 z $0.29 0.23 0.19
2 z $0.58 0.46 0.38
3 z $0.88 0.69 0.57
4 z $1.17 0.92 0.76
5 z $1.46 1.14 0.95
6 z $1.75 1.37 1.14
7 z $2.05 1.60 1.33
8 z $2.34 1.83 1.52
9 z $2.63 2.06 1.71
10 z $2.92 2.29 1.90
20 z $5.85 4.58 3.80
50 z $14.62 11.44 9.51
100 z $29.24 22.88 19.01
150 z $43.86 34.32 28.52
200 z $58.48 45.77 38.02
250 z $73.10 57.21 47.53
1 000 z $292.40 228.83 190.11
Quick Currency Convertor
Become a fan of Warsaw In Your
Pocket on
22
CULTURE & EVENTS
23
CULTURE & EVENTS
Concerts
05.02 Sunday
Chris Rea
B- 4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1. Chris Rea is one
of the most recognisabl e and, apparentl y, remarkabl e
British singer-songwriters and guitarists. During his 30-
year career he has composed many hits like Fool (If You
Think Its Over), Working On It, Gods Great Banana
Skin, Julia, On The Beach and Josephine, selling over
30 million albums. This time hes here as part of his Eu-
ropean tour promoting the new release Santo Spirito,
but Im still waiting for the Dire Straits collaboration... Q
Concert starts at 18:00. Tickets 176-209z. Available at
Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 15:00) and www.ticketpro.pl.
07.02 Tuesday
Farben Lehre
B- 4, Hard Rock Cafe, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy),
tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.pepsirocks.pl. Thi s
is another Pepsi Rocks concert. Up here are the mel odi c
but hard Farben Lehre. Often on the road si nce 2004
wi th other bands as the Punky Reggae Li ve, they are
one of the busi est bands in Poland: over the last 5 years
they have pl ayed over 500 gi gs. Q Concert starts at
21: 00. Ti ckets 32/22z. Avai l abl e at www.ti cketpro.
pl, Empi k, ul. Zota 59, B-3 (Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00).
10.02 Friday
Halinka Mlynkowa
F- 5, Stodoa, ul. Batorego 10, tel. (+48) 22 825
60 31, www.stodola.pl. Her voi ce coul d be heard
everywhere i n 2001 when she was si ngi ng fol k-pop i n
the band Brathanki. Leavi ng after two years to focus
on her sol o career, i t took her 10 years for her fi rst sol o
rel ease, not much focus then. However, she travel l ed a
l ot and that i nfl uence i s cl ear i n the new material - even
the name of the al bum i s Etnoteka. Q Gates open from
19:00. Ti ckets 35/42z. Avai l abl e at Stodoas box of-
fi ce (Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Cl osed
Sun, Mon).
14.02 Tuesday
IRA Unplugged
F- 5, Stodoa, ul. Batorego 10, tel. (+48) 22 825
60 31, www.stodola.pl. I f a li ght versi on of heavy
metal is not a contradi ction in terms, then IRA play i t.
They have been around since 1987 and are al ways a bi g
draw, having supported the likes of Aerosmi th. After 20
years, they have deci ded to do the Unplugged thing and
ti ck of f another rock group must-do box. Q Gates open
from 19:000. Ti ckets 39/45z. Avai l abl e at Stodoas
box of fi ce (Open 09: 00 - 21: 00, Sat 09: 00 - 14: 00.
Cl osed Sun, Mon).
16.02 Thursday
TSA
F-5, Stodoa, ul. Batorego 10, tel. (+48) 22 825 60
31, www.stodola.pl. Now in their 29th year, TSA have
been playing their own brand of heavy(ish) rock since
they formed i n Opol e al l those moons ago. Ori gi nal l y
influenced by AC/DC and Led Zep, their own expressi ve
styl e soon devel oped as they blazed a trail for metal in
Poland. Q Gates open from 19:000. Ti ckets 35/42z.
Availabl e at Stodoas box of fi ce (Open 09:00 - 21:00,
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Cl osed Sun, Mon).
Art galleries
Kordegarda B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 15/17,
tel. (+48) 22 421 01 25, www.kordegarda.org.QOpen
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Stairs Gallery (Galeria Schody) C-3, ul. Nowy wiat
39, tel. (+48) 22 828 89 43, www.galeriaschody.pl.
Q Open 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Zachta National Gallery of Art (Zachta Nar-
odowa Galeria Sztuki) B-3, Pl. Maachowskiego 3,
tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta.art.pl.QOpen
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10z, Thu free.
Cinemas
Femina A-2, Al. Solidarnoci 115, tel. (+48) 22 654
45 45, www.heliosnet.pl.QBox office open 09:30 - 21:15.
Tickets 15-27z, Tue, Thu 15z.
Kino.Lab G- 4, Ujazdowski Castle (Centrum Sztuki
Wspczesnej), ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71
ext. 135, www.kinolab.art.pl.QTickets 10-12z. Box office
open from 12:00 to 15 minutes after last show. Mon open
30 minutes before the showtime.
Multikino Zote Tarasy A-4, ul. Zota 59, tel. (+48)
22 201 16 10, www.multikino.pl. Also on Al. Ken 60
(Ursynw), Wola Park, ul. Grczewska 124 (Wolo), Centrum
Targwek, ul. Gbocka 15 (Targwek).QBox office open
from 15 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes
after last showtime. Tickets 14-33z.
Orange IMAX ul. Powsiska 31 (Sadyba), tel. (+48)
22 550 33 33, www.kinoimax.pl. Q Box office open from
30 minutes before the first showtime to 15 minutes after
last showtime. Tickets 25-34z.
Cultural Centres
Mazovia Region Centre of Culture and Arts (Mazow-
ieckie Centrum Kultury i Sztuki) A-3, ul. Elektoralna
12, tel. (+48) 22 620 39 62, www.mckis.waw.pl.QOpen
08:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Admission free.
Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/
CSW) (Centrum Sztuki Wspczesnej Zamek
Ujazdowski) G-4, ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 12
71 ext.135, www.csw.art.pl.QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Fri
12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6z, Thu free.
Opera Stages
Great Theatre - National Opera (Teatr Wielki -
Opera Narodowa) B-2, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22
826 50 19, www.teatrwielki.pl.QBox office open 10:00
- 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00- 19:00. Tickets 25-145z.
Philharmonics
National Philharmonic (Filharmonia Narodowa)
B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 10, tel. (+48) 22 551 71 28, www.
filharmonia.pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00 -
19:00, Sun depending on the repertoire. Tickets 20-90z.
Theatre Stages
National Theatre (Teatr Narodowy) B-2, Pl. Teat-
ralny 3, tel. (+48) 22 692 06 04, www.narodowy.pl.Q
Box office open 11:00 - 14:30, 15:00 - 19:00, Sun depending
on repertoire. Closed Mon. Tickets 40-80z.
Theatre On Wola (Teatr Na Woli im. Tadeusza
omnickiego) ul. Kasprzaka 22 (Wola), tel. (+48) 22
632 24 78, www.teatrnawoli.pl.QBox office open 12:00-
19:00, or until show time. Tickets 20-60z.
MAMY TWJ BILET.
THE UMBILICAL
BROTHERS
HEAVEN BY STORM
29
th
March 2012 19:00
Polish Theatre
ul. Karasia 2
24
CULTURE & EVENTS
25
CULTURE & EVENTS
11.03 Sunday
Fisz & Emade
31, www.stodola.pl. Fisz is a hip hop artist using para-
poetic lyrics inspired by the poetry of Miron Biaoszewski. His
brother Emade is a well-known music producer who, besides
samples, plays keyboards and drums. Both are the offspring
of Wojciech Waglewski - one of the most respected guitar-
ists in Poland. Q Gates open from 17:30. Tickets 45/52z.
Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Stodoas box office (Open
09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun, Mon).
15.03 Thursday
Rise Against
31, www.stodola.pl. Formed in 1999 in Chicago out of
the ashes of 88 Fingers Louie, Rise Against are big hitters,
breaking into Americas top ten with their fourth album The
Sufferer and the Witness (2006). They are beloved of
many a video-game geek as their songs have been used on
Need For Speed: Underground 2, FlatOut 2, Tony Hawks
Underground and multiple versions of Guitar Hero. Girls,
go along, but dont expect to meet Mr Right. Their March
visit to Poland is to promote the new album Endgame. Q
Gates open from 19:00. Tickets 115/120z. Available at the
Stodoa box office (Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun, Mon).
18.03 Sunday
Nigel Kennedy - Hendrix
F-5, Stodoa, ul. Batorego 10, tel. (+48) 22 825 60 31,
www.stodola.pl. The world famous spiky-haired, punk,
enfant terrible, Villa supporting violinist has come a long
way from his first performance in the Royal Festival Hall in
1977. He has strong ties with Poland, working for a time as
artistic director at the Krakw Philharmonic.
Come and hear as he and his band plays Purple Haze and
other Hendrix hits, ho hum... Q Gates open from 19:00.
Tickets 55/62z. Available at Stodoas box office (Open
09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun, Mon).
24.03 Saturday
Vader: Blitzkrieg VI
31, www.stodola.pl. Considered pioneers of the metal
sound during commie times Vader have approximately 30
albums to their credit, though their biggest claim to fame is
providing the music to Witcher - the most successful Polish
PC game of all time. Supporting them are a right line-up of
lunatics, and judging by their names youll be lucky to get
out alive. A ticket for this concert also wins you the chance
to check out the talents of Resistance, Eris Is My Homegirl,
The Sixpounder and Calm Hatchery. Q Gates open from
19:00. Tickets 35/39z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and
Stodoas box office (Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun, Mon).
27.03 Tuesday
IRA - Hard Rock Cafe Warsaw 5th Anniversary
B-4, Hard Rock Cafe, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 22 222 07 00, www.pepsirocks.pl. HRC in War-
saw is celebrating its 5th birthday and so have invited the
very well-known Polish band IRA along for the evening. If a
light version of heavy metal is not a contradiction in terms,
then IRA play it. They have been around since 1987 and are
always a big draw, having supported the likes of Aerosmith
in their time. Q Time and ticket prices were undecided at
the moment. Please check our website for more updates.
Warsaw Chamber Opera
(Warszawska Opera Kam-
eralna) A-1, Al. Solidarnoci
76b, tel. (+48) 22 831 22
40, www.operakameralna.
pl. The Warsaw Chamber Opera
was founded in 1961 by Stefan
Sutkowski, who has served as
its Managing and Artistic Direc-
tor ever since. The companys
inaugural production, performed
on the 4th September 1961,
was Pergolesis La Serva Padrona. Since October 1986
the Opera has performed at its own theatre, a listed
building dating from 1775 whose audience contributes
to the acoustic sound created.
The repertoire of the Warsaw Chamber Opera spans a wide
variety of musical styles and genres: from medieval mystery
plays to the operas of the Baroque and Classical periods,
18th century pantomimes, the operas by Rossini and
Donizetti, as well as works by contemporary composers.
The Warsaw Chamber Opera ensembles also give regular
concerts featuring chamber, oratorio and symphonic
music of various epochs. In 1984 the Warsaw Chamber
Opera established the Research and Documentation
Centre of Early Polish Music. It deals with the research,
publ i cati on, per formance and recordi ng of newl y-
discovered works by Polish composers.
The music of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart has long occu-
pied a prominent place in the companys repertoire. The
Warsaw Chamber Opera is the only company in the world
to have Mozarts entire operatic output in its permanent
repertoire and this unprecedented achievement has won
the Warsaw company-wide international recognition. In
addition to this the Warsaw Chamber Opera has also
organized the 4th Claudio Monteverdi Festival, The Cel-
ebrations to mark 400 Years of Opera as a Genre and An
Ode to Europe Festival. Q Box office open 09:00 - 19:00,
Sat, Sun depending on repertoire. Tickets 20-130z.
12.09 Monday - 28.03 Wednesday
Festival of Chamber Operas from the 20th
and 21st Centuries
A-1, Warsaw Chamber Opera, Al. Solidarnoci 76b,
tel. (+48) 22 831 22 40. Its 50 years since Stefan
Sutkowski founded the Warsaw Chamber Opera and
hes still the boss. The opera recently became the proud
owner of an imitation Pleyel piano. Based on Chopins
favourite instrument from 1830, it took Paul McNulty 2
years to build. During this festival the WCO will remind us
of the greatest operas by Stravinsky, Britten and Krauze,
some of which have already proved successful here. The
programme include two other operas:
Viktor Ullmann, The Emperor of Atlantis
February 6, 8, 10 - 19:00
Jzef Koffler, Matrimonio con variazioni
February 20, 22, 24 - 19:00
Zygmunt Krauze, Polyeucte
March 5, 7, 9, 19:00
Bernadetta Matuszczak, Crime and Punishment
March 15, 16, 17 - 19:00
Zygmunt Krauze, Balthazar
March 26, 27, 28 - 19:00
QTi ckets 40-120z. Availabl e at Warsaw Chamber
Operas box of fi ce (Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun
depending on repertoire).
21.02 Tuesday
Enej
B-4, Hard Rock Cafe, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel. (+48)
22 222 07 00, www.pepsirocks.pl. Enej are an alternative
rock band from Olsztyn. A few group members find inspiration in
Ukrainian culture and this explains some of their sound. In 2010
they made it to the semi-finals of the Przystanek Woodstock
festival competition, so near and yet... Q Concert starts at
21:00. Tickets 30/20z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl, Empik,
ul. Zota 59, B-3 (Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
24.02 Friday
Opeth
www.stodola.pl. Swedish prog metal masters visit for the
third time. Lead by Mikael kerfeldt they have been on the
scene since 1990 and arrive with new material. Q Concert
starts at 20:00. Tickets 120/130z. Available at www.tick-
etpro.pl and Stodoas box office (Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun, Mon).
28.02 Tuesday
Vavamuffin
B-4, Hard Rock Cafe, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 22 222 07 00, www.pepsirocks.pl. A clue to the
origins of the band is in the name... no? Well, theyre from
Warsaw. Theyve been plying their particular mixture of raga-
muffin, reggae and old-school dancehall since 2003 and are
one of the most recognisable acts on the Polish scene. Its
a vocal trio supported by a five-piece band and dubmaster.
A splendid night out to be sure. Q Concert starts at 21:00.
Tickets 50/38z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl, Empik, ul.
Zota 59, B-3 (Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00).
02.03 Friday - 03.03 Saturday
Kazik Na ywo
www.stodola.pl. Kazik Na ywo (Kazik Live) was originally the
solo live project of Polish singing legend and all round enfant ter-
rible Kazik Staszewski, but later it snowballed and they started
recording their own material. They are back after a five-year
break and ready to spoil us with their variety of hard rock and
punk. If you are after an authentic Polish musical experience,
look no further, your quest is at an end. Kazik rocks. Q Concert
starts at 20:00. Tickets 55-62z. Available at Stodoas box of-
fice (Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun, Mon).
03.03 Saturday
Zakopower
www.stodola.pl. Lead by Sebastian Karpiel-Buecka, this
lot derive their name from their hometown, Polands winter
capital Zakopane, clever eh? Its a mix of highland music
with a contemporary vibe of bass, drum and electric guitar.
Hmm... Q Gates open from 19:00. Tickets 40/47z. Available
at www.ticketpro.pl and before the concert.
07.03 Wednesday
Selah Sue
www.stodola.pl. Know the Kinder Bueno commercial with
a vampire in Venice? If you do or you dont makes no never
mind - the song used was This World by Selah Sue. Her tracks
bring to mind the neo-funk style of Erykah Badu and Lauryn Hill
and her voice is close to Amy Winehouse. Now shes visiting
Poland for the first time to perform in Warsaw and Wrocaw.
Q Available at Stodoa box office (Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun, Mon). Tickets 110/90z.
MAMY TWJ BILET.
W W W . F A B R Y K A Z E S P O L O W . P L
E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S
WA R S AW C HA MB E R OP E R A
Managing and Artistic Director
Stefan Sutkowski
is financed by
MAZOVIA VOIVODESHIP
GOVERNMENT
MINISTER OF CULTURE
AND NATIONAL HERITAGE
Media patronage
Strategic partner:
www.operakameralna.pl tickets@operakameralna.pl
Sales and reservations: Warsaw Chamber Opera Box Office, Al. Solidarnoci 76b, tel. 22 831-22-40
open MondayFriday 9.00 a.m.7.00 p.m. & SaturdaySunday 4.00 p.m.7.00 p.m.
1961 G. B. PERGOLESI LA SERVA PADRONA 1962 T. BAIRD SONETY MIOSNE I PIENI
TRUWERW 1963 J. HAYDN LO SPEZIALE ANONIM AMFITRYJON POLSKI, CZYLI ODPRAWA
BOGW GRECKICH G. C. MENOTTI TELEFON, CZYLI MIO WE TROJE 1964 K. KURPISKI
SZARLATAN, CZYLI WSKRZESZENIE UMARYCH 1966 G. P. TELEMANN PIMPINONE 1967
W. A. MOZART BASTIEN UND BASTIENNE 1968 D. CIMAROSA IL MAESTRO DI CAPELLA 1969
R. JANUSZKIEWICZ PARNASSUS REFORMOWANY, CZYLI APOLLOPRAWODAWCA 1971 G. PAISIELLO
LA SERVA PADRONA ANONIM MISTERIUM MKI CZOWIECZEJ BERNARDINI-M. DI CAPUA
LE NOZZE DI AMORE E PSICHE 1972 S. MONIUSZKO KARMANIOLA, CZYLI OD SASA DO LASA
M. RIMSKI-KORSAKOW MOZART I SALIERI 1973 J. MAKSYMIUK IN MEDIO VERO OMNIUM
RESIDET SOL G. DONIZETTI DON PASQUALE 1974 ANONIM GRA O HERODZIE 1975 A. BLOCH
Z GWIAZD WCUDOBUDZIE G. M. ORLANDINI GRACZ M. KAMIESKI TRADYCJA DOWCIPEM
ZAATWIONA J. ELSNER ECHO W LESIE A. BLOCH ZWIERCIADO G. B. PERGOLESI
IL MAESTRO DI MUSICA W. A. MOZART COS FAN TUTTE 1976 W. A. MOZART LA FINTA
GIARDINIERA J. MAKSYMIUK POZA SOWAMI J. OFFENBACH DWAJ LEPCY, ZARCZYNY
PRZY LATARNIACH, SALON PANA CHOUFLEURI M. KAMIESKI SOWIK, CZYLI KASIA Z HANI
NA WYDANIU; NDZA USZCZLIWIONA K. KURPISKI KALMORA 1977 F. X. BRIXI LURIDI
SCHOLARES ERAT UNUMCANTOR BONUS G. F. HAENDEL ARIANNA A. BLOCH GOS MILCZENIA
J. HAYDN DIE ERWHLUNG EINES KAPELLMEISTERS 1978 G. PASQUA LA SERVANTE MAITRESSE
G. B. CIMADORO PIGMALION G. PAISIELLO IL BARBIERE DI SIVIGLIA B. MATUSZCZAK
PAMITNIK WARIATA G. B. PERGOLESI IL GELOSO SCHERNITO 1979 G. ROSSINI IL SIGNOR
BRUSCHINO E. SIKORA TWARZ KU NIEBU; ARIADNA J. HAYDN LA CANTERINA D. SCARLATTI
TETIDE IN SCIRO H. STUPPNER TOTENTANZ 1980 D. CIMAROSA LIMPRESARIO IN ANGUSTIE
J. A. HASSE DON TABARANO E SCINTILLA 1981 ANONIM GRA O MCE I ZMARTWYCHWSTANIU
K. KURPISKI MARS I FLORA A. SCARLATTI SCENE BUFFE 1982 J. HAYDN LISOLA
DISABITATA G. PAISIELLO LE DUE CONTESSE 1983 ANONIM O ZORZO ZAWDY JASNA
T. JOHNSON THE FOUR NOTE OPERA M. KAMIESKI KANTATA NA DZIE INAUGURACYI STATUI
KRLA JANA III D. CIMAROSA IL MATRIMONIO SEGRETO 1984 C. DITTERS VON DITTERSDORF
DOCTOR UND APOTHEKER S. PROKOFIEW PIOTRU I WILK C. SAINT-SANS KARNAWA
ZWIERZT W. A. MOZART LE NOZZE DI FIGARO S. MONIUSZKO HALKA 1985 M. BUCCI SWEET
BETSY FROMPIKE A. SERGE OPOWIE OSTRASZLIWYMSMOKUTARASQUE S. LANDI IL SANT
ALESSIO 1986 G. P. TELEMANN DON KICHOT W. A. MOZART PANTALONE E COLOMBINA
B. MATUSZCZAK PROMETEUSZ 1987 ANONIM CANTIGAS DE SANTA MARIA W. A. MOZART
DIE ZAUBERFLTE 1988 K. MAJER TA SZLAFMYCA W. A. MOZART ZAIDE W. A. MOZART
SERENATA NOTTURNA, GALIMATHIAS MUSICUM 1989 J. PERI EURIDICE W. A. MOZART
DIE ENTFHRUNG AUS DEMSERAIL W. A. MOZART BETULIA LIBERATA W. A. MOZART LA FINTA
SEMPLICE 1990 W. A. MOZART APOLLO ET HYACINTHUS W. A. MOZART DIE SCHULDIGKEIT DES
ERSTEN GEBOTS W. A. MOZART LA CLEMENZA DI TITO W. A. MOZART LA FINTA GIARDINIERA
W. A. MOZART LOSPOSODELUSO, DER SCHAUSPIELDIREKTOR, LOCA DEL CAIRO W. A. MOZART
ASCANIO IN ALBA W. A. MOZART IL SOGNO DI SCIPIONE W. A. MOZART IL RE PASTORE 1991
W. A. MOZART MITRIDATE, RE DI PONTO W. A. MOZART IL DISSOLUTO PUNITO OSSIA IL DON
GIOVANNI W. A. MOZART LUCIO SILLA W. A. MOZART THAMOS W. A. MOZART IDOMENEO,
RE DI CRETA W. A. MOZART D. O. M. KYRIE, GRABMUSIK, DAVIDE PENITENTE W. A. MOZART
GALIMATHIAS MUSICUM, LES PETITS RIENS 1992 G. ROSSINI LA SCALA DI SETA 1993
C. MONTEVERDI 3 MADRIGALI, IL COMBATTIMENTO DI TANCREDI E CLORINDA, BALLO DELLE
INGRATE C. MONTEVERDI LORFEO J. BLOW VENUS AND ADONIS 1994 G. F. HAENDEL
MESSIAH C. MONTEVERDI IL RITORNO DULISSE IN PATRIA 1995 B. GALUPPI LAMANTE
DI TUTTE H. PURCELL DIDO AND NEAS T. MERULA SATIRO E CORISCA; CANZONI E BALLI
1996 F. CACCINI LA LIBERAZIONE DI RUGGIERO DALLISOLA DALCINA C. MONTEVERDI
LINCORONAZIONE DI POPPEA C. MONTEVERDI BALLO DELLE INGRATE B. MATUSZCZAK
QUO VADIS 1997 G. ROSSINI LA CENERENTOLA J.-B. LULLY ALCESTE 1998 G. ROSSINI
LA CAMBIALE DI MATRIMONIO G. ROSSINI LITALIANA IN ALGERI G. F. HAENDEL IMENEO
G. ROSSINI ROSSINIADA 1999 C. MONTEVERDI VESPRO DELLA BEATA VERGINE J. A. HASSE
ZENOBIA 2000 O. VECCHI LAMFIPARNASO J. PERI EURIDICE A. CAMPRA TANCRDE
D. SCARLATTI TETIDE IN SCIRO 2001 G. F. HAENDEL RINALDO G. ROSSINI LA GAZZA LADRA
Z. KRAUZE BALTHAZAR Z. RUDZISKI ANTYGONA 2002 P. CZAJKOWSKI EUGENIUSZ ONIEGIN
G. DONIZETTI LELISIR DAMORE 2003 G. VERDI FALSTAFF G. ROSSINI SEMIRAMIDE 2004
L. JANEK JENFA 2005 V. ULLMANN DER KAISER VON ATLANTIS 2006 W. A. MOZART AZIONE
TEATRALE W. A. MOZART BALET DWORSKI 2007 K. KURPISKI HENRYK VI NA OWACH
M. PIGNOLET DE MONTECLAIR JEPHT G. VERDI UN GIORNO DI REGNO C. MARIA VON
WEBER DER FREISCHTZ 2008 B. MATUSZCZAK ZBRODNIA I KARA 2009 B. MATUSZCZAK
PROMETEUSZ J. KOFFLER MATRIMONIO CON VARIAZIONI B. GALUPPI IL FILOSOFO DI
CAMPAGNA 2010 B. BRITTEN THE BURNING FIERY FURNACE I. STRAWISKI THE RAKE'S
PROGRESS Z. KRAUZE POLIEUKT 2011 F. POULENC LA VOIX HUMAINE E. PAASZ JA, KAIN
Stefan Sutkowski
WARSAW CHAMBER OPERA
12 September 1961 12 September 2011
12 September 2011 28 March 2012
Festival of Chamber Operas of
the 20th and 21st Centuries on
the Warsaw Chamber Opera
the 50th Anniversary of
1961 G. B. PERGOLESI LA SERVA PADRONA 1962 T. BAIRD SONETY MIOSNE I PIENI
TRUWERW 1963 J. HAYDN LO SPEZIALE ANONIM AMFITRYJON POLSKI, CZYLI ODPRAWA
BOGW GRECKICH G. C. MENOTTI TELEFON, CZYLI MIO WE TROJE 1964 K. KURPISKI
SZARLATAN, CZYLI WSKRZESZENIE UMARYCH 1966 G. P. TELEMANN PIMPINONE 1967
W. A. MOZART BASTIEN UND BASTIENNE 1968 D. CIMAROSA IL MAESTRO DI CAPELLA 1969
R. JANUSZKIEWICZ PARNASSUS REFORMOWANY, CZYLI APOLLOPRAWODAWCA 1971 G. PAISIELLO
LA SERVA PADRONA ANONIM MISTERIUM MKI CZOWIECZEJ BERNARDINI-M. DI CAPUA
LE NOZZE DI AMORE E PSICHE 1972 S. MONIUSZKO KARMANIOLA, CZYLI OD SASA DO LASA
M. RIMSKI-KORSAKOW MOZART I SALIERI 1973 J. MAKSYMIUK IN MEDIO VERO OMNIUM
RESIDET SOL G. DONIZETTI DON PASQUALE 1974 ANONIM GRA O HERODZIE 1975 A. BLOCH
Z GWIAZD WCUDOBUDZIE G. M. ORLANDINI GRACZ M. KAMIESKI TRADYCJA DOWCIPEM
ZAATWIONA J. ELSNER ECHO W LESIE A. BLOCH ZWIERCIADO G. B. PERGOLESI
IL MAESTRO DI MUSICA W. A. MOZART COS FAN TUTTE 1976 W. A. MOZART LA FINTA
GIARDINIERA J. MAKSYMIUK POZA SOWAMI J. OFFENBACH DWAJ LEPCY, ZARCZYNY
PRZY LATARNIACH, SALON PANA CHOUFLEURI M. KAMIESKI SOWIK, CZYLI KASIA Z HANI
NA WYDANIU; NDZA USZCZLIWIONA K. KURPISKI KALMORA 1977 F. X. BRIXI LURIDI
SCHOLARES ERAT UNUMCANTOR BONUS G. F. HAENDEL ARIANNA A. BLOCH GOS MILCZENIA
J. HAYDN DIE ERWHLUNG EINES KAPELLMEISTERS 1978 G. PASQUA LA SERVANTE MAITRESSE
G. B. CIMADORO PIGMALION G. PAISIELLO IL BARBIERE DI SIVIGLIA B. MATUSZCZAK
PAMITNIK WARIATA G. B. PERGOLESI IL GELOSO SCHERNITO 1979 G. ROSSINI IL SIGNOR
BRUSCHINO E. SIKORA TWARZ KU NIEBU; ARIADNA J. HAYDN LA CANTERINA D. SCARLATTI
TETIDE IN SCIRO H. STUPPNER TOTENTANZ 1980 D. CIMAROSA LIMPRESARIO IN ANGUSTIE
J. A. HASSE DON TABARANO E SCINTILLA 1981 ANONIM GRA O MCE I ZMARTWYCHWSTANIU
K. KURPISKI MARS I FLORA A. SCARLATTI SCENE BUFFE 1982 J. HAYDN LISOLA
DISABITATA G. PAISIELLO LE DUE CONTESSE 1983 ANONIM O ZORZO ZAWDY JASNA
T. JOHNSON THE FOUR NOTE OPERA M. KAMIESKI KANTATA NA DZIE INAUGURACYI STATUI
KRLA JANA III D. CIMAROSA IL MATRIMONIO SEGRETO 1984 C. DITTERS VON DITTERSDORF
DOCTOR UND APOTHEKER S. PROKOFIEW PIOTRU I WILK C. SAINT-SANS KARNAWA
ZWIERZT W. A. MOZART LE NOZZE DI FIGARO S. MONIUSZKO HALKA 1985 M. BUCCI SWEET
BETSY FROMPIKE A. SERGE OPOWIE OSTRASZLIWYMSMOKUTARASQUE S. LANDI IL SANT
ALESSIO 1986 G. P. TELEMANN DON KICHOT W. A. MOZART PANTALONE E COLOMBINA
B. MATUSZCZAK PROMETEUSZ 1987 ANONIM CANTIGAS DE SANTA MARIA W. A. MOZART
DIE ZAUBERFLTE 1988 K. MAJER TA SZLAFMYCA W. A. MOZART ZAIDE W. A. MOZART
SERENATA NOTTURNA, GALIMATHIAS MUSICUM 1989 J. PERI EURIDICE W. A. MOZART
DIE ENTFHRUNG AUS DEMSERAIL W. A. MOZART BETULIA LIBERATA W. A. MOZART LA FINTA
SEMPLICE 1990 W. A. MOZART APOLLO ET HYACINTHUS W. A. MOZART DIE SCHULDIGKEIT DES
ERSTEN GEBOTS W. A. MOZART LA CLEMENZA DI TITO W. A. MOZART LA FINTA GIARDINIERA
W. A. MOZART LOSPOSODELUSO, DER SCHAUSPIELDIREKTOR, LOCA DEL CAIRO W. A. MOZART
ASCANIO IN ALBA W. A. MOZART IL SOGNO DI SCIPIONE W. A. MOZART IL RE PASTORE 1991
W. A. MOZART MITRIDATE, RE DI PONTO W. A. MOZART IL DISSOLUTO PUNITO OSSIA IL DON
GIOVANNI W. A. MOZART LUCIO SILLA W. A. MOZART THAMOS W. A. MOZART IDOMENEO,
RE DI CRETA W. A. MOZART D. O. M. KYRIE, GRABMUSIK, DAVIDE PENITENTE W. A. MOZART
GALIMATHIAS MUSICUM, LES PETITS RIENS 1992 G. ROSSINI LA SCALA DI SETA 1993
C. MONTEVERDI 3 MADRIGALI, IL COMBATTIMENTO DI TANCREDI E CLORINDA, BALLO DELLE
INGRATE C. MONTEVERDI LORFEO J. BLOW VENUS AND ADONIS 1994 G. F. HAENDEL
MESSIAH C. MONTEVERDI IL RITORNO DULISSE IN PATRIA 1995 B. GALUPPI LAMANTE
DI TUTTE H. PURCELL DIDO AND NEAS T. MERULA SATIRO E CORISCA; CANZONI E BALLI
1996 F. CACCINI LA LIBERAZIONE DI RUGGIERO DALLISOLA DALCINA C. MONTEVERDI
LINCORONAZIONE DI POPPEA C. MONTEVERDI BALLO DELLE INGRATE B. MATUSZCZAK
QUO VADIS 1997 G. ROSSINI LA CENERENTOLA J.-B. LULLY ALCESTE 1998 G. ROSSINI
LA CAMBIALE DI MATRIMONIO G. ROSSINI LITALIANA IN ALGERI G. F. HAENDEL IMENEO
G. ROSSINI ROSSINIADA 1999 C. MONTEVERDI VESPRO DELLA BEATA VERGINE J. A. HASSE
ZENOBIA 2000 O. VECCHI LAMFIPARNASO J. PERI EURIDICE A. CAMPRA TANCRDE
D. SCARLATTI TETIDE IN SCIRO 2001 G. F. HAENDEL RINALDO G. ROSSINI LA GAZZA LADRA
Z. KRAUZE BALTHAZAR Z. RUDZISKI ANTYGONA 2002 P. CZAJKOWSKI EUGENIUSZ ONIEGIN
G. DONIZETTI LELISIR DAMORE 2003 G. VERDI FALSTAFF G. ROSSINI SEMIRAMIDE 2004
L. JANEK JENFA 2005 V. ULLMANN DER KAISER VON ATLANTIS 2006 W. A. MOZART AZIONE
TEATRALE W. A. MOZART BALET DWORSKI 2007 K. KURPISKI HENRYK VI NA OWACH
M. PIGNOLET DE MONTECLAIR JEPHT G. VERDI UN GIORNO DI REGNO C. MARIA VON
WEBER DER FREISCHTZ 2008 B. MATUSZCZAK ZBRODNIA I KARA 2009 B. MATUSZCZAK
PROMETEUSZ J. KOFFLER MATRIMONIO CON VARIAZIONI B. GALUPPI IL FILOSOFO DI
CAMPAGNA 2010 B. BRITTEN THE BURNING FIERY FURNACE I. STRAWISKI THE RAKE'S
PROGRESS Z. KRAUZE POLIEUKT 2011 F. POULENC LA VOIX HUMAINE E. PAASZ JA, KAIN
Stefan Sutkowski
WARSAW CHAMBER OPERA
12 September 1961 12 September 2011
PROGRAMME
Composer Ti tl e Perf ormance date
Francis Poulenc La Voix humaine / Human voice Premiere 12 September 2011
Aubade 14 and 16 September 2011
La Dame de Monte-Carlo
Bernadetta Matuszczak Quo vadis 26, 28 and 30 September 2011
Benjamin Britten The Burning Fiery Furnace 10, 12 and 14 October 2011
Bernadetta Matuszczak Prometheus 24, 26 and 28 October 2011
Leo Janek Jenfa 21, 23 and 25 November 2011
Edward Paasz I, Cain World premiere 7 January 2012
9 and 11 January 2012
Igor Stravinsky The Rake's Progress 23, 24, 26 and 27 January 2012
Viktor Ullmann Der Kaiser von Atlantis 6, 8 and 10 February 2012
Jzef Koffler Matrimonio con variazioni 20, 22 and 24 February 2012
Zygmunt Krauze Polieucte 5, 7 and 9 March 2012
Bernadetta Matuszczak Crime and Punishment 15, 16 and 17 March 2012
Zygmunt Krauze Balthazar 26, 27 and 28 March 2012
Honorary Patron President of the Republic of Poland
BRONISAW KOMOROWSKI
Patron
European Parliament
28
CULTURE & EVENTS
29
CULTURE & EVENTS
Despite its 5 century tradition, Valentines Day only really
appeared in Poland in the 90s. There was resistance in
some unromantic traditionalist corners against what
was seen as Western commercialism, but over time it
has gained popularity and restaurants, hotels and clubs
have a wide range of offers for the day. Here are a select
few for you to do some wooing with.
14.02 Tuesday
Its only love - Valentines Day Concert
B-4, Marriott, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. (+48)
22 630 63 06, www.marriott.com/wawpl. These
concerts will feature all the top romantic hits Polish cul-
ture has to offer performed by artists from the Warsaw
Theatre. There will be also a surprise for guests and a
glass of wine, now youre talking. Q Concert starts at
20:00. Tickets 110z. Available at Congress Hall box
office (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
11.02 Saturday
The Beatles & Queen
B-4, Congress Hall (PKiN), Pl. Defilad 1. This Valen-
tines Day event presents the hits of The Beatles and
Queen set to great choreography. The national ballet
from Ostrava will perform dances especially prepared
for this event. Q Event starts at 18:00. Tickets 100-
160z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Congress Hall
box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
12.02 Sunday
Merry Widow
B- 4, Congress Hall (PKiN), Pl. Defilad 1, www.
makroconcert.com/pl. As al ways on Val enti nes
Day classical music journalist Bogusaw Kaczyski has
prepared a special premiere. This time its in a Parisian
style: The Merry Widow, a classical operetta by Franz
Lehar, will be performed by Paris based Maria Sartova
and the Gliwice Musical Theatre. Q Event starts at
17:00. Tickets 100-160z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl
and Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
Valentines Day
links between politics and royal patronage. This patronage
covered other fields and was a strategic device used by
the king at a time when his power was limited by the sur-
rounding events. Q Admission 22/15z. Sun free. Open
10:00-16:00, Sun 11:00-16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance
1 hour before closing.
11.01 Wednesday - 11.03 Sunday
Warsaw Invites
Warsaw Frederick Chopin Airport Gallery, ul. wirki
i Wigury 1, tel. (+48) 22 650 42 20, www.zacheta.
art.pl. This show at the airport has been put together by
the Zachta Gallery and is set by the Departures gates
between the ol d and new sections of Terminal A. The
first exhibition includes photography, films and paintings
presenting the history of Warsaw and its likely future. The
photos by Leonard Sempoliski from the 50s show off the
capitals architecture, Joanna Rajkowskas film focusses on
important sites in the city and there are futuristic photo-
montages by Kobas Laksa as well as paintings by Edward
Dwurnik, Aneta Grzeszykowska and Jan Smaga. This is a
fascinating collection of work and well worth the effort i f
you are passing through and have some time to spare. Q
Open 09:00 - 16:00. Admission free.
13.01 Friday - 18.03 Sunday
Schmitzlers People - niaty Pre-War Habi-
tants
C-2, History Meeting House, ul. Karowa 20, tel. (+48)
22 255 05 05, www.dsh.waw.pl. The subject is niaty.
Currently part of Ukraine, before WWII it was the capital of
the Stanisawowski region and a multicultural town. In 1941
Nazi allies occupied the town, forming a ghetto which was
liquidated a year later with the death of over 5000 people,
half the towns population. When the Soviets took over in
1944 they exiled the Poles. The photographs on show were
taken by Schmitzler, but there are others from multiple family
archives. They show pre-war streets and relations between
the inhabitants: Ukraininans, Jews, Poles, Germans and
Armenians. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.
Closed Moon. Admission free.
04.02 Saturday - 15.04 Sunday
The World Not Represented. Documentation
of Polish Transformation after 1989
G- 4, Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/
CSW), ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 64 08, www.
csw.art.pl. This is the first presentation in a three-year
proj ect call ed Postdocumentati on whi ch will comprise
photography, film and non-fiction literature. The title of the
first exhibition is taken from Kornhauser and Zagajewskis
book The World Not Represented. There are photos by
Polish and foreign contributors showing the country and the
effects of the economic, social and cultural crisis. Crisis!
What crisis? Q Open 12:00-19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00.
Admission 12/6z, Thu free.
17.02 Friday - 08.04 Sunday
City. Area Of Operation
G-4, Ujazdowski Castle (Museum Of Modern Art/CSW),
ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 64 08, www.csw.art.pl.
Come and find out about the history of the group Movement
Academy (Akademi Ruchu). Founded by Wojciech Krukowski,
they have been active in many disciplines including theatre, film,
performance and the visual arts. Since 1974 they have always
presented their work in areas of town not normally associated
with art: on the streets, in private houses and industrial zones. Q
Open 12:00-19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Admission 12/6z, Thu free.
Exhibitions
28.10 Friday - 30.03 Friday
Ryan Gander. Really Shiny Things That Dont
Mean Anything
A- 3, Pl. Defilad, tel. (+48) 22 596 40 10, www.art-
museum.pl. This will be the first installation in a seri es
under the coll ecti ve ti tl e New place (Tri bune) set in the
space in front of Palace Of Cul ture And Sci ence. A j oint
ini tiati ve between Warsaw Ci ty Hall and the Museum of
Modern Art, the organisers want to focus our attention
on the Parade Square - on i ts histori cal baggage, i ts
empti ness and the necessi ty of restori ng i ts former
appearance as a metropoli tan centre.QOpen 24hrs.
Stanislaus Augustus, the last King of Poland
B-2, Royal Castle, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355
51 70, www.zamek-krolewski.pl. Somewhat overlooked
by the historical record, this show aims to right that wrong
and detail the life of a sometimes controversial figure. There
are over 250 works from Poland and abroad exploring the
Rafa Milach: 7 Rooms
B-3, Zachta National Gallery of Art, Pl. Maachowskiego
3, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta.art.pl. A pho-
tographic exhibition examining the lives and experiences of
people born in the Soviet Union, but who have grown up in
the Putin era. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admis-
sion 15/10z, Thu free.
Opera
08.03 Thursday
Womens Day - Carmen
B-4, Congress Hall (PKiN), Pl. Defilad 1. This 4-act opera
in the original language will be performed by 150 artists
from the Silesian Opera. Theres Spanish exotica, energy
and oodles of Latin temperament which keeps the piece as
vibrant as ever, even after 130 years it still has the power
to astonish. Q Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 50-180z.
Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Congress Hall box office
(Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
Sport
11.02 Saturday
Legia Warszawa - Wisa Krakw
H-2, National Stadium, Al. Zieleniecka 1, tel. (+48) 22
517 94 41, www.stadionnarodowy.org.pl. A week before
the the league season resumes after the winter break per-
haps the two best known Polish teams of recent years will try
out the new National Stadium. The Stadium and the Olympic
Stadium in Kiev will be the main arenas for the upcoming
EURO 2012. This is a really big deal, bigger than the actual
match, the Supercup final that was supposed to have been
played last summer.QTicket prices and time were undecided
at the moment. Please check our website for updates.
Theatre
12.02 Sunday
Our Class
Theatre On Wola, ul. Kasprzaka 22 (Wola), tel. (+48)
22 632 24 78, www.teatrnawoli.pl. Highly thought of all
over Europe, Our Class by Tadeusz Sobodzianek is the first
Polish drama to win the Nike literary award. Dealing with
the growing pains of a group of classmates who dream of
becoming a pilot, a doctor or a film star. Come and see how
their lives are affected by the events of the 20th century.
This performance is in Polish with English supertitles. Q
Events start at 19:00. Tickets 50/70z. Available at Theatre
On Wolas box office (12:00 - 19:00) and before the event.
29.02 Wednesday
The Umbilical Brothers
C-3, Polish Theatre, ul. Karasia 2, www.akrat.pl. If youre
waylaid in Poland, this is your chance to catch live what has be-
come a bit of a youtube sensation around the world, not least of
all in Poland where mime and cabaret are a big deal. These two
Australian boys do it a bit differently though. Masters of mime
and improvisational comedy, Shane Dundas and David Collins
use audience participation to constantly create original acts
that combine slapstick comedy, sound effects (beatboxing),
bits of dialogue, occasional puppetry and generally clownish
hijinks. Hilarious and highly recommended, check it out online
and act fast if you want to get tickets. In addition to Warsaw
their act is travelling through Pozna, Krakw, d with their
latest programme Heaven by Storm. Q Event starts at 19:00.
Tickets 140/120z. Available at Polish Theatre box office (Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun).
13.03 Tuesday - 14.03 Wednesday
Forever King of Pop
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, www.kongresowa.pl.
This is a two-hour musical tribute to Michael Jackson produced
by Summum Music under the patronage of and in cooperation
with the Jackson Family Foundation. The arena will ring out to the
sounds of Billie Jean, Beat It, Bad, ABC, I Want You Back, Smooth
Criminal, Human Nature and other hits in a show performed by
40 artists including a live band, vocalists and dancers. Q Event
starts at 20:00 on Tue and at 19:30 on Wed. Tickets 90-350z.
Available at Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00-18:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00-15:00) and www.ticketpro.pl.
18.03 Sunday
Yamato - The Drummers Of Japan
B-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 696 99
00. These famous drummers from Japan visit Poland again
to give a series of concerts, you cant keep them away. This
time they come with a new programme entitled Gamushara
featuring, er, lots of drums with traditional string instruments
like koto, chappa, shino-bue, samisen and kane. Its not just
about rhythm and sound but also energy and the humour of
the musicians. Theres choreography and acrobatics to liven
things up too. Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 90-250z.
Available at Congress Hall box office (Open 11:00-18:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00-15:00) and www.ticketpro.pl.
20.03 Tuesday
Paco Pena Flamenco Dance Company
B- 4, Congress Hall (PKiN), Pl. Defilad 1, www.mak-
roconcert.com/pl. Considered one of the top names
in flamenco gui tar, Paco Pea founded the Paco Pea
Flamenco Dance Company in 1970 and popularised the
Spanish lifestyle, dance and music. Hes visiting Poland to
give four shows, in Warsaw, Gdynia, Krakw and Zabrze. Its
a chance for fans to see his most popular project A Comps!
which should be interesting for both amateurs and experts
of flamenco. Q Event starts at 19:00. Tickets 85 - 255z.
Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Congress Hall box office
(Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00).
23.03 Friday
Igudesman & Joo
E-2, Kamienica Theater, Al. Solidarnoci 93. Classical
musicians Aleksey Igudesman and Richard Hyung-ki Joo
put on a performance that mixes comedy, music and pop
culture into a unique stage experience. The endgame is
to make classical music more accessible to a wider (and
younger) audience. The duo kicked off 2012 by setting a
world record for the most dancing violinists on stage at one
time - evidence of their unique brand of classical entertain-
ment. Q Event starts at 20:30. Tickets 120/100z. Available
at www.biletynakabarety.pl.
30
WHERE TO STAY
31
WHERE TO STAY
Cream of the crop
Hilton Warsaw Hotel & Convention Centre E-3,
ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. (+48) 22 356 55 55, www.
hiltonwarsaw.pl. Although only open since 2007 the Hilton
already feels like an established big shot on Warsaws five
star circuit. And it cant be denied, theres a hefty dose of
wow factor to swallow - from a breathtaking glass lobby to
the best (and biggest) conference facilities in the city. But its
not just about business. The hotel touts a gorgeous looking
25 metre pool, while the top floor executive lounge provides
diversions by way of DVDs, snacks, computer games and pri-
vate check in. As for the rooms, theyre just what youd expect
from a brand like Hilton. Accommodation comes with a stylish
modern look, walk-in showers and flat screen televisions.
Particularly impressive are the corner suites, complete with
floor-to-ceiling views of downtown Warsaw. Q314 rooms (303
singles 270 - 1000z, 303 doubles 270 - 1000z, 10 apart-
ments 910 - 1910z, 1 Presidential Suite 5310 - 9000z). Tax
8%. POTHAR6UFLGKDCW hhhh
Holiday Inn Warszawa A- 4, ul. Zota 48/54, tel.
(+48) 22 697 39 99, www.holidayinn.com/warsawpo-
land. A trademark Holiday Inn with a location hemmed in by
the Palace of Culture and Zote Tarasy shopping centre. Find
immaculate facilities throughout, and a standard just typical
of the HI crest. It might look small and squat compared to its
neighbours but this hotel is deceptively large, with a quick
tour revealing designer boutiques, fitness facilities and a
beauty parlour. Q336 rooms (54 singles 249 - 535z, 272
doubles 249 - 510z, 10 apartments 599 - 765z). Breakfast
65z. Tax 8%. PTHA6UFLGKDW hhhh
Hyatt Regency Warsaw G-5, ul. Belwederska 23, tel.
(+48) 22 558 12 34, www.warsaw.regency.hyatt.com.
Situated right on the doorstep of azienki Park, the Hyatt
not only has all the five star trimmings, but the biggest hotel
swimming pool in Warsaw. By hotel standards the rooms are
enormous, and come with easy-on-the-eye cream colours
and huge showerheads designed for that mock rain experi-
ence. Q250 rooms (90 singles 65 - 230, 132 doubles 65
- 230, 10 suites 130 - 295, 2 Diplomatic Suite 715 - 880,
1 Presidential Suite 1715 - 1880). Breakfast 20. Tax 8%.
POTHAR6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh
InterContinental A-4, ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. (+48) 22
328 88 88, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. A beau-
tiful three-legged structure, the Warsaw InterContinental is
nothing short of an architectural marvel. Accommodation
fits the setting, with spacious rooms using pleasant colour
combinations and including every facility one would expect.
Setting it apart from the competition is a fitness centre
and swimming pool on the 43th floor, and huge residential
suites for long-term guests. Q404 rooms (326 singles 75
- 250, 326 doubles 85 - 260, 76 apartments 95 - 400, 1
Presidential Suite 1500 - 2000). Breakfast 10. Tax 8%.
PTHAR6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh
Le Mridien Bristol C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
42/44, tel. (+48) 22 551 10 00, www.lemeridien.pl. Breathe
in history by booking a night in Warsaws most famous hotel. The
plaque in the marble clad lobby lists dozens of stars and royalty
who have chosen to lodge here, and to countdown the facilities on
offer would require an hour of your time. Art nouveau is the theme
and rooms feature the classy ambiance of yesteryear. But for all the
five star perks and trimmings our favourite touch is the courtyard
garden; an oasis of luxury perfect for evening drinks. Q204 rooms
(173 singles 550 - 1200z, 173 doubles 550 - 1200z, 30 apart-
ments 1610 - 5500z, 1 Paderewski Suite 7500z). Breakfast 110z.
Tax 8%. PTJHAR6UFGKDCW hhhhh
Mamaison Hotel Le Regina Warsaw B-1, ul.
Kocielna 12, tel. (+48) 22 531 60 00, www.mamaison.
com/leregina. Rated by many as the most stylish hotel in
Warsaw, the Regina is the bottom line in elegance and comes
set behind a row of pastel coloured colonnades in Warsaws
New Town area. No expense has been spared in creating this
luxury retreat, with bleached oak and marble mocha used
for flooring, and restored frescoes featuring in many of the
rooms. A monastic quiet prevails throughout this courtyard
centred hotel, with interiors featuring a soothing combo of
whites, creams and caramel colours. Q61 rooms (58 singles
179 - 289, 58 doubles 179 - 289, 1 Penthouse 439 - 459,
1 Le Regina Suite 589 - 609, 1 Presidential Suite 1339
- 1359). Breakfast 23. Tax 8%. PTJHARUF
GKDCW hhhhh
Marriott B- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. (+48) 22
630 63 06, www.marriott.com/wawpl. A hotel with
real pedigree, the Warsaw Marriott has everything from
Warsaws classiest doorman outside to award winning
restaurants inside. The accommodation has been home to
a long line of visiting nabobs, including George W. Bush. An
extensive program of renovation has recently seen all the
rooms upgraded and the beds are so comfortable you may
not wish to leave them. Little details include lemon shampoo
in the bathrooms, mini-bars complete with pipes of Pringles,
and views that stretch right across the city. Q518 rooms
(423 singles 359 - 999z, 423 doubles 359 - 999z, 31
suites 1029 - 1349z, 60 apartments 479 - 1199z, 2 Vice
Presidential Suite 4560z, 1 Presidential Suite 8200z).
Tax 8%. POTHAR6UFLGKDCwW
hhhhh
Novotel Warszawa Centrum B-4, ul. Marszakowska
94/98, tel. (+48) 22 596 00 00, www.accorhotels.
com. A sleek silver skyscraper with grandstand views of the
Warsaw skyline one of the big pluses. Subject to a thorough
rehaul the Novotel Centrum gets points for both location and
size, meaning its not rare to find it overrun with tour groups
and conferences. Upstairs find revamped rooms offering all
the four star extras. Q733 rooms (50 singles 249 - 885z,
661 doubles 249 - 885z, 12 suites 999z, 10 apartments
1340z). Breakfast 65z. Tax 8%. PTHAR6U
FLGKDW hhhh
Polonia Palace Hotel B- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie 45,
tel. (+48) 22 318 28 00, www.poloniapalace.com.
Originally built in 1913 the Polonia Palace has seen it all,
from a victory banquet hosted by Eisenhower, to the Miss
World girls back in 2006. The exterior has benefited from a
full faceli ft, and now dazzles amid its soot clad neighbours.
Slidey doors open onto a grand marble lobby, while upstairs
ampl y porti oned rooms reveal modern fi ttings among
made-to-look-old furniture. Pride of place goes to the
apartment, whose defining feature is a raised lounge area
with an oval-shaped window. Q206 rooms (198 singles
60 - 235, 198 doubles 60 - 235, 7 suites 180 - 415,
1 apartments 510). Breakfast 9-18. PTHAR
6UFGKDw hhhh
Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel A-3, ul. Grzybowska
24, tel. (+48) 22 321 88 88, www.radissonblu.com/
hotel-warsaw. An excellent hotel with top-drawer facilities
and rooms themed on Italian, Scandinavian and maritime
styles. All come with dataports, three telephone lines, safes
and pay-TV, and theres also state-of-the-art conference,
dining and fitness facilities. Q311 rooms (284 singles
320 - 1200z, 284 doubles 320 - 1200z, 26 apartments
570 - 1150z, 1 Presidential Apartment 4000z). Tax 8%.
PTHAR6UFGKDCwW hhhhh
Winter time has finally arrived in Warsaw,
with the snow that we have been expecting
for such a long time. Warsaw has many
winter attractions to offer to its guests so I am pleased
to offer some recommendations on how to spend an
unforgettable time in our city.
On a sunny day why dont
you spend time at one of
the open air ice rinks? The
one next to the Palace of
Culture and Science (en-
trance from witokrzyska
street) is at the very heart
of Warsaw. Open hours are
l ong al ways from 8am
until 8pm weekdays and
unti l 9pm at weekends
and it is also possible to rent skates. You will also find
rinks in Stegny (open until 8pm with skate rental also
available) while the indoor rink at Torwar that is the
biggest in Warsaw.
When planning your stay in Warsaw around the 14th
February do not miss the special events which are
planned for Valentines Day! There is a big Valentines
show at Sala Kongresowa in the Palace of Culture and
Science wi th the LOVE HITS of The Beatles and
Queen (11th February - details and tickets at www.
kongresowa.pl), as well as an unplugged concert by
the Polish rock band IRA at Stodola Music Club (more
concerts and events at www.stodola.pl). You can also
choose from the Revue Valentines Show at Sabat
Musical Theatre (11th, 12th and 14th February - more
at www.teatr-sabat.pl) and the Three Tenors Concert
(Krzysztof Marci niak, Dari usz Stachura and Adam
Zdunikowski) at Roma Musical Theatre (13th February
- more at www.teatrroma.pl).
I nterested i n concer ts and shows? Do not mi ss
those at Sal a Kongresowa at the Pal ace of Cul ture
and Sci ence! Fi rst of al l you have concer ts from
some bi g stars such as the Chris Rea concert
(5th February), Hair Musical (9th February), Sting
concert (15th February) and then bi g shows like the
music of Queen and the Beatles (11th February);
the Yamato- Drummers of Japan (18th March), as
wel l as the Forever King of Pop musical (13th
and 14th March). More i nformati on can be found
at www.konresowa.pl. I f you woul d l i ke assi stance
wi th ti ckets, j ust l et us know at the Conci erge desks
at your hotel s.
There are so many events to attend and places to
enjoy and experience in Warsaw. I f you need any rec-
ommendations to help make your stay in our city as
fruitful and unforgettable as possible please contact
the Warsaw concierges in your hotel. We will be more
than happy to show you around and we will ensure
that your visit to Warsaw is a pleasant one so that
you and your friends come back soon to enj oy the
spirit of the city again.
ukasz Ciemuchowski
Concierge at InterContinental Warszawa hotel
since 2007
Ask your Concierge
Warsaw is a business ci ty first and foremost, and
occupancy rates reflect that. Prices dip the moment
the clock hits Friday, 5pm, and youll find some great
discounts available if you hunt around online. A good
place to start of course is warsaw.inyourpocket.com
where there is a function to check and compare prices.
Called hotelcalculator.com the software scans the web
and finds the lowest rates available for all hotels available
on the dates you request. It then gives you the three best
prices available allowing to book directly with whichever
reservation system has that price at the time.
The Warsaw hotel market reflects the citys image as
the corporate briefcase of Eastern Europe and it comes
well equipped with five star offerings, as well as a new
breed of lower priced options for more thrifty travellers.
Unless mentioned otherwise the options we list include
breakfast in their rates. Hotels will list their prices in
euros, dollars or zloty, though whatever the case your bill
will be calculated in local currency using the exchange
rate of the day. Warsaw now has a group of Golden
Keys concierges and their tips for the coming months
in Warsaw can be found in our Ask the Concierge box.
Here is a list of recommendations depending on what
you are looking for.
Local
Be king of the Castle by booking into Castle Inn, where
rooms custom designed by local artists that a uniquely
local modern angle to the old town setting. For some-
thing more upmarket check into the Polonia Palace, a
restored art nouveau building bang in the centre. Or why
not see what its like to be a (wealthy) local, and rent out
an apartment we vouch for Residence St Andrews,
class apartments in an A1 location.
Cheap
Camera Hostel is ideal if youre looking to meet up with
random travellers from around the globe, while newcomer
Moon Hostel is a little more upscale (flatscreens in the
rooms) and a little less backpackeresque. If hostelling
is below you then check out the centrally located and
budget friendly Gromada or the multiple locations of
Polands Start hotels.
Lads
If youre touring in numbers then go for one of the 5-star
giants, all of whom tend to drop their rates at weekends.
If you want to be central then try the Marriott it comes
with its own sports bar and casino. Cheaper options, but
equally adept at coping with groups, are The Golden
Tulip, Radisson Blu and Campanile.
Couples
MaMaison Le Regina is the perfect honeymoon experi-
ence, and right in the middle of romantic new town. Alterna-
tively, relive the Art Deco years inside the boutique Rialto.
Or request the rose room at the Sleepwell Apartments
on central Nowy Swiat and enjoy crisp white linens and
floor-to-ceiling fake roses in this romantic new spot.
Splurge
The city has seen a number of new hotels in recent years,
many of them at the top end of the market. While we can
vouch for all the major hotels, it might be worth taking a
look at the price comparison service hotel calculator on
the hotel pages of poland.inyourpocket.com.
Lodgings at a glance
32
WHERE TO STAY
33
WHERE TO STAY
Campanile E-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. (+48) 22 582 72
00, www.campanile.com.pl. Decorated with chequered
patterns and green and yellow colour schemes the Cam-
panile accommodation includes satellite TV and pristine
bathrooms. High standards and a central location. Q194
rooms (194 singles 179 - 359z, 194 doubles 179 - 359z).
Breakfast 35z. PTHA6UGKW hh
Castle Inn B-2, ul. witojaska 2 (entrance from Pl.
Zamkowy), tel. (+48) 22 425 01 00, www.castleinn.pl.
When students grow up, grow rich and can no longer stand
hostels, they stay in places like this. A dream of a hotel at the
centre of Old Town you can expect big rooms, all with individual
decor - some classy, some kitsch, all good fun - and - wait for
it - velvet doors. Best of all though are the rooms which have
the massive (and we mean massive) bathrooms. We dare
you to find bigger bathrooms than those on offer here in any
other hotel in Warsaw. Much like their clientele the owners of
this place have also graduated up from hostels (they run the
Oki-Doki). If this is what becomes of hostels when they grow
up, bring it on. Q22 rooms (3 singles 190 - 290z, 10 doubles
190 - 380z, 1 triples 190 - 330z, 8 apartments 270 - 460z).
Breakfast 35z. TYHA6GW
Chmielna St. B&B C-4, ul. Chmielna 13, tel. (+48) 22
828 12 82, www.chmielnabb.pl. Budget priced boutique
accommodation courtesy of the brains behind the New World
Hostel. Theres seven rooms to choose from, including Lon-
don (red, vibrating wall), San Francisco (black/white, modern
metropolitan) and Hoi An (hardwood and a curtained bed). Its
a great concept for those too old for hostels, too young for
Hilton, and the deal here includes a cool looking living room
with a chic style and flatscreen plasma. Find the reception
100m away in the New World St. Hostel at ul. Nowy wiat 27
(C-3). Q7 rooms (7 singles 174 - 227z, 7 doubles 174 - 227z,
1 triples 188 - 227z). Breakfast 15z. AGW
Czarny Kot My Warsaw Residence D-1, ul. Okopowa
65, tel. (+48) 22 530 50 00, www.hotelczarnykot.com.
pl. Heres a candidate for Polands weirdest hotel. Set a short
way from the Arkadia mall this turreted structure is labyrin-
thine in layout, and filled with mirrors, chrome and quirky
diversions. Rooms vary in style and size, with many featuring
a design more associated with a nightclub. Memorable, most
certainly. Q43 rooms (37 singles 200 - 450z, 37 doubles
249 - 400z, 2 triples 450z, 5 apartments 450 - 600z).
PTHAR6GKDW
Dom Literatury B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
87/89, tel. (+48) 22 635 04 04, www.fundacjadl.
com. Commanding views of Warsaws Old Town relieve the
sepia gloom, but lugging your bags to the top floor might
give you a hernia. At reception, oblivious to the hotels latent
menace, awaits a supremely glum and unhelpful desk clerk.
His job necessitates daily contact with foreigners, yet he
remains resolutely, magnificently monolingual. Q13 rooms
(3 singles 180 - 220z, 7 doubles 300 - 370z, 3 triples 330
- 450z, 2 quads 400 - 520z, 1 apartments 400 - 600z).
HAUGKW
Golden Tulip Warsaw Centre E-3, ul. Towarowa 2,
tel. (+48) 22 582 75 00, www.goldentulipwarsawcen-
tre.com. A very favourable price to quality trade-off here,
with plenty of room, heavenly beds and a warm welcome
all part of the deal. However, our favourite detail is the
breakfast, clearly one of the best in the city. What a spread!
A hotel with big ideas that is rightfully putting its sights on
getting a fourth star very soon. Q144 rooms (144 singles
200 - 530z, 144 doubles 200 - 530z). Breakfast 65z.
PTHA6UFGKDW hhh
Upmarket
Mercure Grand C- 4, ul. Krucza 28, tel. (+48)
22 583 21 00, www.mercure.com. A l andmark of
a hotel, housed i n one of those 1950s buil di ngs that
simpl y oozes class and makes you wonder why the rest
of the ci ty coul dn t l ook the same. Hi gh quali ty rooms
come wi th fantasti c showers that make brilliant use of
the availabl e space. Add in comfy beds, a top central
l ocation, good staf f and a brilliant buf fet breakfast, and
you have a winner. Q299 rooms (86 singl es 250 - 820z,
207 doubl es 250 - 820z, 6 apartments 1350 - 1650z).
Breakfast 70z. Tax 8%. PTHAR6UFLG
KDW hhhh
Radisson Blu Sobieski Hotel E- 3, Pl. Zawiszy
1, tel. (+48) 22 579 10 00, www.radissonblu.com/
sobieski -warsaw. The faade has a gari sh rai nbow-
col ored paint j ob, but fortunatel y this newest addi tion
to the Radi sson Bl u chai n (the change from Sobi eski
to Blu takes place in October) has a much more subtl e
interior featuring a marbl e l obby, bi g rooms and fi tness
facili ti es. And we applaud any changes that mean this
hotel isn t going to charge guests for Internet use any-
more. Q435 rooms (60 singles 470 - 740z, 328 doubles
470 - 740z, 40 apartments 740 - 2000z, 1 Royal Sui te
2000 - 3000z). Breakfast 60z. Tax 8%. PTHA
R6UFKD hhhh
Mid-range
Belwederski G- 5, ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. (+48)
22 840 40 11, www.hotelewam.pl. Smar t rooms
found i n t he sl eepy di pl omat i c quar ter. The pi nk
exteri or i s as wacky as i t gets, the rest of the hotel
of fer s conser vat i ve mi d- r ange comfor t compl ete
wi th satel l i te TV and l arge bathrooms. Q53 rooms
(32 si ngl es 230 - 290z, 21 doubl es 280 - 350z,
10 sui tes 304 - 380z, 1 apar tments 400 - 500z).
THA6UGKW hhh
Bouti que Bed & Breakf ast C- 4, ul . Smol na
14/6, tel. (+48) 22 829 48 01, www.bbwarsaw.
com. Qui et and cobbl ed, Smol na i s not a typi cal ci ty
centre street, and nei ther i s thi s your typi cal set of
apar tments. Apar tments sui t al l budgets, though the
Queen - featuri ng j acuzzi and l arge l i vi ng space - i s
wel l wor th the extra outl ay. Accommodati on has been
desi gned to evoke a real atmosphere of home-from-
home and features l ots of fl owers, natural wood and
personal touches cour tesy of Jarek, your host. Q14
rooms (8 si ngl es 220z, 11 doubl es 250z, 2 apar t-
ments 380z). THAGW
Three star Ascot Hotel offers its guests modern,
functional rooms and an intimate, comfortable atmosphere
in the very centre of Krakow.
Your Hotel in the heart of Krakow
31026 Krakw, ul. Radziwiowska 3, Phone +48 12 384 06 06, +48 12 384 06 66, Fax +48 12 384 06 07,
e-mail: rezerwacja@hotelascot.pl, recepcja@hotelascot.pl
www.hotelascot.pl
Rialto F-4, ul. Wilcza 73, tel. (+48) 22 584 87 00, www.
rialto.pl. Relive the days of Lempicka and Lindbergh inside
Polands original boutique hotel, a stunning venue decorated
exclusively in art deco style. Period furnishings have been plucked
from the auction houses and antique stores of Europe, and all
the individually designed rooms come with Italian linen, DVD
players and a host of luxurious extras. If its available then book
into lucky number 13, a colonial pearl which Hercule Poirot would
have loved. He would have thought highly of the excellent in-house
restaurant, too, which has a special menu that offers the cuisine
of pre-war Warsaw for added authenticity. Q44 rooms (6 singles
65 - 140, 27 doubles 65 - 140, 11 apartments 125 - 200).
Breakfast 18. PTHARUFGKDW hhhhh
Sheraton Warsaw C-4, ul. Prusa 2, tel. (+48) 22 450
61 00, www.sheraton.com. Its all a bit Dynasty in the War-
saw Sheraton, with lots of marble and gold plate extras, as
well as a selection of some of Warsaws best eateries on the
ground floor. Rooms are of generous size, though to really feel
like king consider upgrading to executive, where perks include
access to a great lounge featuring complimentary snacks
and beverages. Q350 rooms (326 singles 320 - 1150z, 326
doubles 320 - 1150z, 18 suites 405 - 1235z, 5 apartments
1420 - 2250z, 1 Presidential Suite 6820 - 7650z). Breakfast
99z. Tax 8%. PTHAR6UFLGKD hhhhh
Sofitel Warsaw Victoria B-3, ul. Krlewska 11, tel.
(+48) 22 657 80 11, www.accorhotels.com. For years the
Sofitel was in very real danger of stagnation. Now this revamped
concrete block finds itself in the eye-of-the-storm; revitalised
Krakowskie Przedmiecie on one side, and Saski Park on the
other. And, right in front, Sir Norman Fosters Metropolitan
building, complete with its glass cased offices and designer
boutiques. So what of the Sofitel itself? Rooms are dapper
enough, fully equipped to deal with the steep demands of the
five star traveller. Ask for a business class room if you require an
additional study with fax and copy facilities. Q343 rooms (160
singles 240 - 950z, 170 doubles 240 - 950z, 52 apartments
400 - 1610z, 1 Presidential Suite 5900z). Breakfast 95z. Tax
8%. POTHAR6UFLGKDC hhhhh
The Westin A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 21, tel. (+48) 22 450 80
00, www.westin.com. A top bracket sanctuary situated amid
the skyscrapers of Warsaws business district. The lobby buzzes
at all hours and a glass lift whisks guests to rooms decorated in
warms tones and ultra-modern fittings. Each comes replete with
dressing gowns and slippers, in-room movies and mini-bars that
will take a considerable effort to clear. Splash out on the execu-
tive floor for access to a top floor lounge that features gourmet
finger snacks and champagne on ice. Q361 rooms (345 singles
320 - 950z, 345 doubles 320 - 950z, 15 suites 1370 - 2000z,
1 Presidential Suite 6820 - 7450z). Breakfast 99z. Tax 8%.
PTHAR6UFLGKD hhhhh
Gromada - Dom Chopa B- 3, Pl. Powstacw
Warszawy 2, tel. (+48) 22 582 99 00, www.dom-
chlopa.pl. Its almost a surprise to find such a good deal
in the city centre. As the coaches parked outside testi fy,
Gromada is a hit with package tours and conferences.
First sight is an over-waxed marble lobby, and a curvy
stai rwell spi ri ts guests to modern, sunny rooms. The
older portion of the hotel offers economy class accom-
modation that are not quite as sleek, but the basic rooms
provide everything a weary travel requires. Though theres
no longer an excuse to wear that weariness now that a
newly installed beauty salon has opened and offers a 10
percent discount to guests. Q320 rooms (301 singles
290 - 430z, 265 doubles 330 - 530z, 17 apartments
450 - 700z). POTHAR6ULGKW hhh
Harenda C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 4/6, tel.
(+48) 22 826 00 71, www.hotelharenda.com.pl. A
decent family-style hotel within walking distance of the Old
Town. Rooms are decorated in pink and chocolate brown
colours. Stay at the weekend and get one night thrown in
for free. Q41 rooms (39 singles 310z, 6 doubles 340z, 2
apartments 460z). Breakfast 25z. TJHALGW
hh
Hetman G-1, ul. Kopotowskiego 36, tel. (+48) 22
511 98 00, www.hotelhetman.pl. This is three-star
indentikit accommodation at its finest. The large rooms
come with internet access, hairdryers, cable TV and neutral
beige colour schemes. On the Praga side of the river. Q68
TYHAR6ULGKW hhh
Ibis Ostrobramska ul. Ostrobramska 36 (Praga
Poudnie), tel. (+48) 22 515 78 00, www.accorhotels.
com. Practical, fully functional rooms fully in line with the
standard you expect from the Ibis chain. Q137 rooms (137
singles 139 - 269z, 137 doubles 139 - 269z). Breakfast
32z. PTHA6ULGKW hh
Ibis Stare Miasto A-1, ul. Muranowska 2, tel. (+48)
22 310 10 00, www.accorhotels.com. More of the same
from Ibis: international standards at competitive prices. Best
of all, its location ten minutes from the Old Town means
that your immediate choice is no longer limited to spending
suitcases of cash in the Bristol. Q333 rooms (333 singles
PTHA6UGKW hh
Ibis Warszawa Centrum D-2, Al. Solidarnoci 165,
tel. (+48) 22 520 30 00, www.accorhotels.com. Reliable
international standards, sensibly priced. Rooms come armed
with all expected mod-cons. Q189 rooms (189 singles
189 - 359z, 189 doubles 189 - 359z). Breakfast 32-36z.
PTHA6ULGKW hh
Lord Al. Krakowska 218 (Wochy), tel. (+48) 22 574 20
00, www.hotellord.com.pl. An out-of-centre hotel within
easy distance of the airport. Large rooms are conservatively
decorated with clean cream colours, wood furnishings and
rich green carpets. Q90 rooms (37 singles 290 - 390z,
PTHAR6UFGKDW hhh
Maria D-1, Al. Jana Pawa II 71, tel. (+48) 22 838
40 62, www.hotelmaria.pl. A small, famil y run hotel
offering moderate prices and prim rooms featuring ran-
dom floral designs. Q24 rooms (21 singles 222 - 323z,
PTA6KW hh
34
WHERE TO STAY
35
WHERE TO STAY
Budget
BEST WESTERN Hotel Felix ul. Omulewska 24
(Praga Poudnie), tel. (+48) 22 210 70 00, www.
bwfelix.pl. Located over on the east side of the river
6km from the city centre, the Best Western falls comfort-
ably into the Polish business/conference class of hotels.
Having received a complete makeover and refurb, what
you now have is effectively a very comfortable, brand new
hotel at extremel y competi ti ve pri ces. Handy i f youre
planning on spending your time in the fashionable adja-
cent Praga district. Q227 rooms (96 singles 112 - 279z,
120 doubles 112 - 279z, 5 triples 112 - 279z, 3 suites
179 - 299z). Breakfast 30z. TYHAR6ULG
KDW hhh
BEST WESTERN Hotel Portos H-7, ul. Manga-
lia 3a, tel. (+48) 22 207 60 00, www.bwportos.
pl. What was once a Start Hotel has been overhaul ed
by Best Western, transformi ng thi s concrete bl ock
from outsi de (a stark new pai nt j ob that makes the
bui l di ng stand out next to i ts grubbi er nei ghbours) to
i nsi de (that new carpet smel l!). The chai n seems to be
angl i ng for busi ness travel l ers, and vi si tors wi l l enj oy
new LCD tel evi si ons, l aptop computer rests and even
sl i ppers. Were baf fl ed as to why thi s makeover onl y
i ncl udes Wi -Fi on sel ect fl oors, but cosmeti cal l y i ts
i mpressi ve. An i deal l ocati on for travel ers l ooki ng for
qui ck access to the Warsaw Trade Fai r & Congress
Center. Q230 rooms (230 si ngl es 112 - 299z, 156
doubl es 112 - 299z, 8 sui tes 179 - 249z). Breakfast
30z. TYHAR6ULGKW hhh
Etap Warszawa Centrum H- 3, ul. Zagrna 1,
tel. (+48) 22 745 36 60, www.accorhotels.com.
A super addi ti on to Warsaws budget bracket, and one
of the fi rst Etap hotel s to be l aunched i n Pol and. I ts
a wi nni ng formul a here: bri ght, modern rooms i nsi de a
sparkl i ng whi te bui l di ng i n the qui et Powi l e di stri ct.
The rooms come wi th a si mpl e desi gn but your cash
gets you al l the faci l i ti es the modern travel l er requi res:
wi rel ess net access, en-sui te bathrooms and cabl e
tel evi si on. Q176 rooms (176 si ngl es 145 - 210z, 176
doubl es 145 - 210z, 14 tri pl es 145 - 210z). Breakfast
20z. PA6UGW h
Hit G-1, ul. Kopotowskiego 33, tel. (+48) 22 618 94
70, www.hithotel.pl. Singles and doubles as well as apart-
ments ranging in size from 30 to 60 metres. Shuttered away
in a colourful building close to the zoo section of Praga. Its
brand new and cheap and has two stars to its name. Q102
rooms (12 singles 190 - 220z, 36 doubles 210 - 240z, 6
triples 220 - 250z, 48 apartments 300 - 400z). Breakfast
25z. THA6ULGKW hh
Mazowiecki B- 3, ul. Mazowiecka 10, tel. (+48)
22 827 23 65, www.hotelewam.pl. What used to be
a grubby budget hotel has seen modest refurbishments
and now promises utilitarian comfort at cut prices. The
peep show next door may have closed, but the hotels
proxi mi ty to several of Warsaws top bars make i t a
popular choice for a particular breed of traveller. Q56
YA6UGKW h
Noclegi Okcie - Magnolia Al. Krakowska 236
(Wochy), tel. (+48) 696 07 00 40, www.noclegiokecie.
pl. Magnolia, one of Noclegi Okcies three accommodations
coupled near the airport (the neighbouring two buildings,
Pod Lipami and U Jakuba are hostels) has newly remodelled
single and double en-suite modern rooms that will delight
budget travelers: free Wi-fi, an outdoor space for lounging,
immaculate cleanliness and enough distance from the road
to make sleeping a breeze. Breakfast isnt included, but
the hotels nearby restaurant Totu (Al. Krakowska 236) has
reasonably priced Polish fare. Q46 rooms (25 singles 90 -
155z, 26 doubles 130 - 199z, 8 triples 150 - 185z, 7 quads
180 - 210z). Breakfast 17z. ARGKW
Premiere Classe E-3, ul. Towarowa 2, tel. (+48)
22 624 08 00, www.premiereclasse.com. One of the
best budget options in the city, and as such often fully
booked. Basic, modern rooms come equipped with private
bathrooms and television, and the location is just a tram
stop from the train station. Q126 rooms (126 singles
TA6UGW h
Start Hotel Aramis H-7, ul. Mangalia 3b, tel. (+48)
22 207 80 00, www.puhit.pl. Slightly forbidding at first
glance this one star hotel offers base comfort at even lower
prices. Do go the extra yard and shell out on a renovated room
- perks are minimal but the rooms are clean and come with
television and internet access. Q232 rooms (232 singles
105 - 209z, 92 doubles 105 - 209z, 139 triples 139 - 199z).
Breakfast 25z. TYHAR6ULGK h
Start Hotel Atos H-7, ul. Mangalia 1, tel. (+48) 22 207
70 00, www.puhit.pl. Another hotel where spending the ex-
tra on a premium komfort room is wholly encouraged. Doing
so gains you digs in clean, renovated rooms with functional
furniture and wifi and tv. Cutting costs gets you something
altogether more basic. Q231 rooms (231 singles 105 - 209z,
106 doubles 105 - 209z, 109 triples 139 - 199z). Breakfast
25z. TYHAR6ULGK h
Apartments
Apartamenty Dobranoc ul. Czarnoleska 10 (Wawer),
tel. (+48) 503 06 64 58, www.dobranoc.eu. A variety
of apartments (from small studios to larger family places,
though none are all that big) all in fairly central locations.
Decorated well (all have fully fitted kitchens and bathrooms
with all mod cons) if not luxuriously, for what you get you are
not paying a great deal of money. Q9 rooms (9 apartments
130 - 370z). No breakfast served. AW
InterContinental A-4, ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. (+48) 22
328 88 88, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com. Luxury
apartments aimed at the long stay corporate traveller. Guests
are awarded all the privileges granted to those staying in the
hotel, including 24hr room service and use of the fitness cen-
tre. Q76 rooms (76 apartments 95 - 400). Breakfast 10. Tax
8%. PTHAR6UFLGKDCwW hhhhh
Mamaison Residence Diana Warsaw C-3, ul. Chmiel-
na 13a, tel. (+48) 22 505 91 00, www.mamaison.com/
diana. An outstanding set of serviced apartments filled with
designer furniture and extras such as DVD players, hi-fi and fully
functioning kitchen. Very chic, and absolutely perfect for the trav-
elling CEO. Services include a 24hr English-speaking reception,
laundry and business facilities. Q46 rooms (46 apartments 89
- 369). Breakfast 12. Tax 8%. PTHARLGKW
P&O Apartments B-2, ul. Miodowa 12 lok.22, tel.
(+48) 508 13 59 95, www.pandoapartments.com.pl.
Good looking, modern furnished apartments in locations
across Warsaw - both centre and out. All sizes, and all bud-
gets, though with a distinct slant towards the higher end of
the market. Q60 rooms (60 apartments 240 - 390z). No
breakfast served. PTAR6GW
MDM F- 4, Pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. (+48) 22 339 16
00, www.hotelmdm.com.pl. Occupyi ng a spot at the
top of Marszakowska most rooms i n the MDM feature
grandstand vi ews of Warsaws fi nest pi ece of soci al i st
real i sm: pl . Konstytucj i . Accommodati on comes wi th
pl um col oured carpets and predi ctabl e three star
comfor t. Q134 rooms (21 si ngl es 50 - 130, 108
doubl es 50 - 130, 5 sui tes 105 - 190). Breakfast
8. THA6UGKW hhh
Metr opol F- 3, ul . Mar sza kowska 99a, tel .
(+48) 22 325 31 00, www.hotel metropol.com.
pl. Renovati ons have phased out the Col d War era
rooms, repl aci ng them wi th decent enough di gs i n
the ver y hear t of Warsaw. True, youl l sti l l be l ooki ng
envi ousl y at those stayi ng i n the Novotel opposi te,
but thi s i s no l onger the hal l of horror of yester year.
Q191 rooms (180 si ngl es 50 - 130, 180 doubl es
50 - 130, 11 sui tes 105 - 190). Breakfast 8.
PTA6UGKW hhh
Partner ul. Marywilska 16 (Biaoka), tel. (+48)
22 814 23 00, www. par tnerhotel . pl . A bri ght,
modern hotel wi th a Scandi navi an aestheti c. Rooms
come wi th pi ne furni shi ngs and l arge wi ndows al l owi ng
pl enty of natural l i ght to spi l l i n. I ts a fai r di stance from
the ci ty centre, so possi bl y best sui ted to company
conferences. Sauna and a l ong l i ne of other faci l i ti es
on si te. Q103 rooms (92 si ngl es 235 - 380z, 40
doubl es 255 - 390z, 6 apar tments 300 - 940z ).
THAUGKDW hhh
Puawska Residence ul. Puawska 361 (Ursyn-
w), tel. (+48) 22 241 75 00, www.pul awska-
residence.com.pl. So new i t sti l l has that new-hotel
smel l . Geared towards busi ness travel l ers, Pul awska
Resi dence Hotel has 197 hi ghl y modern rooms that
have ever ythi ng a l ong-term vi si t to Warsaw requi res:
ki tchenet tes wi th refri gerators and burners, l arge
desks and wal l -mounted fl at screen TVs. The dcor
throughout the hotel i s thankful l y muted and tasteful ,
whi ch extends to the l obby bar and l arge restaurant.
Q197 rooms (80 si ngl es 250 - 350z, 85 doubl es 280
- 350z, 27 apar tments 350 - 450z). PTAFL
GKDW hhh
Reytan G- 5, ul. Rejtana 6, tel. (+48) 22 201 64
00, www.reytan.pl. Found down a qui et si de street
the Reytan del i vers a hi gh three star standard. Cri sp
bed sheets, bri ght col ours and new furni ture. Q86
rooms (86 si ngl es 200 - 400z, 74 doubl es 230 - 430z,
2 sui tes 290 - 600z). THA6ULGKW hhh
Sleepwell Apartments C- 3, ul. Nowy wiat 62,
tel. (+48) 600 30 07 49, www.sleepwell - warsaw.
pl. Si t ti ng above Nowy Swi at, Warsaws swanki est
touri st strol l , Sl eepwel l has one of the best l ocati ons
i n the ci ty; i n one di recti on are the cl ubs of Foksal
street, and i n the other the stunni ng Ol d Town. I nsi de
the ni ne rooms al l have home theatres, mi ni -fri dges
and gi ant LCD tel evi si ons, but each one i s decorated
i n a uni que and someti mes j arri ng styl e. One room
features a murderous manga assassi n pai nted on
the wal l , one room has a gl i tter y carpet, and another
has l arge fake roses romanti cal l y cl i mbi ng the cei l i ng.
Recepti on i s i n a separate bui l di ng so guests must
cal l ahead for i ni ti al access, and no common space
means breakfast i s not i ncl uded (though a di scount
i s avai l abl e at Caf Vi ncent downstai rs). Q9 rooms
(9 doubl es 207 - 347z). A6GW
36
WHERE TO STAY
37
WHERE TO STAY
Hostels
Camera B-3, ul. Jasna 22, tel. (+48) 22 828 86 00,
www.camerahostel.com. Weve never seen a more
bustling hostel than Camera, where the average age of the
guests appears to be 22. Graffiti decorates nearly every
bare space, including the shaky elevator, which adds to the
very youthful feel. The large kitchen is painted like a cartoon
saloon, and lanky male travellers feel comfortable enough
to wander the halls in their boxer shorts. A great location
and sense of camaraderie for younger travellers looking
to connect and party. Q15 rooms (2 singles 90 - 100z, 6
doubles 140 - 185z, 1 triples 165 - 175z, 60 Dorm beds
35 - 65z). LGW
Emma C-4, ul. Wilcza 25/4, tel. (+48) 22 629 76 95,
www.emmahostel.pl. Possibly the most eco-friendly hos-
tel in Warsaw, Emma is run by a cooperative of five people
focused on offering green accommodation. What does that
mean? Rubbish is segregated, all the cleaning products used
are bio-degradeable, the furnishings are partly made from
secondhand wood and the tea/coffee is all from Fair Trade
sources. Though this new spot is still in set-up mode, the
rooms are clean and efficient (a socket by every bed for easy
charging) and Emma even offers guests free bikes to roam
the city (though they are unavailable until April due to repairs).
A hostel with an agenda that works. Q11 rooms (5 singles
110 - 150z, 5 doubles 140 - 150z, 2 triples 170 - 190z, 27
Dorm beds 37 - 45z). T6GW
Hostel Suewiec ul. Bokserska 36 (Mokotw), tel.
(+48) 22 207 90 00, www.puhit.pl. A hostel in name
alone, this is actually more of a budget hotel than anything
else. Rooms are clean, bare and tidy, and while the prices
are kind the chances of meeting any fellow backpackers are
virtually non-existent. Q144 rooms (83 singles 70 - 90z, 58
doubles 140 - 180z). Breakfast 15z. AR6K
Hostel To-Tu ul. Krasiczyska 8 (Targwek), tel. (+48)
22 207 92 00, www.puhit.pl. Lacks the atmosphere of
more backpacker focused hostels, and in all truth your fellow
guests are just as likely to be Polish workmen as they are
Ozzie beer monsters. Plus, youre closer to space than you
are to central Warsaw. Q100 rooms (6 singles 75 - 90z, 5
doubles 130z, 10 triples 180z, 144 Dorm beds 45 - 90z).
Breakfast 10z. A6K
Hostel UFO G-5, ul. Grottgera 11, tel. (+48) 603 33 66
43, www.hostelufo.blogspot.com. Hostel UFO feels like
its still a few months away from completion. The 4-, 8- and
10-bed dorms are bare except for beds, the stairs are so
steep your knees hit the subsequent stair (really, its a lad-
der) and theres only one toilet to accommodate 22 visitors.
The kitchen is open and inviting, but everything else about
UFO - including the afterthought of a sign out front that of-
fers the hostel name and an arrow scrawled in marker - feels
incomplete. Q3 rooms (22 Dorm beds 40 - 50z). GW
Kanonia F-1, ul. Jezuicka 2, tel. (+48) 22 635 06 76,
www.kanonia.pl. An atmospheric old town hostel accessed
down a narrow cobbled street straight from the pages of
Hans Christian Andersen. Living quarters are cramped and
sometimes noisy and guests shouldnt be surprised to find
nosey tourists peering through the windows. Expect the
standard hostel trappings including a cheerfully painted
kitchen, round-the-clock reception and a few computers
on standby for your gmail moments. Q12 rooms (5 singles
140 - 170z, 8 doubles 140 - 190z, 2 triples 150 - 210z, 1
quads 160 - 240z, 1 Five-person room 175 - 250z, 16 Dorm
beds 40 - 55z). Breakfast 13z. A6GW
Krokodyl ul. Czapelska 24 (Praga Poudnie), tel.
(+48) 22 810 11 18, www.hostelkrokodyl.com. A
bright, modern hostel located over the river in the Praga
district which maintains the marked improvement in budget
accommodation in the city. On offer is a combination of
clean, colourful and comfortable dorms and private rooms,
some with en-suite bathrooms. The pluses are many and
include free laundry, free wi fi, fully-equipped kitchen, a
common room, pleasant garden and an alcohol licence. One
of the citys best hostels with very friendly staff and while
the location is out of the centre a straight 15 minute ride
on trams 9 or 24 will see you in the shadow of the Palace
of Culture. Q21 rooms (8 doubles 150 - 160z, 100 Dorm
beds 45 - 70z). TAGW
Moon C-3, ul. Foksal 16, tel. (+48) 22 468 00 66,
www.moonhostel.pl. If its all about location then Moon
Hostels new Warsaw hostel is one of the best, with a prime
building in the heart of bustling Foksal. The 26 rooms range
from one to eight beds, some with ensuite bathrooms, and
in-room flatscreen tvs. The combined kitchen/lounge area
is naturally sparklingly new, with cushy leather sofas and a
foosball table ready for action. Ideal for visitors who want
their hostel to feel like a hotel. Q26 rooms (14 doubles 140
- 170z, 5 triples 170 - 200z, 3 quads 200z, 1 Five-person
room 230z, 1 Six-person room 255z, 1 Seven-person room
270z, 1 Eight-person room 280z). Breakfast not served.
A6GW
Nathans Villa F-4, ul. Pikna 24/26, tel. (+48) 22
622 29 46, www.nathansvilla.com. Set inside a city
centre courtyard Nath has been putting backpackers to bed
since 2004, making him something of an old hand on the local
hostel circuit. And thats something of a good thing, years
of experience - not to say parties - mark this out as one of
the best hostels not just in Warsaw, but Poland. Decked in
a user-friendly IKEA style everything here feels new, clean
and modern, with plus points going to the kitchen/common
rooms: a great space to share a crate of lager with other
itinerants. Q19 rooms (6 singles 174 - 204z, 6 doubles
174 - 204z, 1 quads 214z, 95 Dorm beds 42 - 66z). Basic
breakfast served. Y6GW
New World St. Hostel C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 27, tel.
(+48) 22 828 12 82, www.nws-hostel.pl. Bang in the
heart of nightlife Warsaw is this place, a top little hostel that
numbers wifi, DVDs and a Wii amongst its many standout
features. Choose from four, eight and ten bed dorms, or
opt for one of the colourful privates, themselves named
after glamour spots on the backpacking trail. Q6 rooms (3
singles 152 - 187z, 3 doubles 152 - 187z, 24 Dorm beds
39 - 77z). Breakfast 8z. Breakfast in private rooms included
in the price. AGW
Oki Doki B-3, Pl. Dbrowskiego 3, tel. (+48) 22 828
01 22, www.okidoki.pl. A charismatic hostel stuffed with
abstract art, bits and pieces from thrift stores and wacky
colour schemes. Rooms (and the reception area) are cur-
rently getting a small refurb though they still dont have
numbers, just themes, and have been designed by a team
of local artists. Take a look at The Realm of Narnia, like
something straight out of C.S. Lewis, or The Communist
Dorm, filled with commie iconography and scenes from
Socialist Paradise. Kitchen and internet also available for
guests, as well as what the owners promise is the cheapest
beer in Warsaw. For something more upmarket check into
the decidely boutique Castle Inn, a second pet venture from
the same team behind the Okidoki. Q37 rooms (1 singles
120 - 140z, 21 doubles 140 - 210z, 5 triples 160 - 230z,
60 Dorm beds 33 - 65z). Breakfast 15z. TYA6GW
Airport Hotel Okcie ul. 17 Stycznia 24 (Okcie),
tel. (+48) 22 456 80 00, www.airporthotel.pl. Good
value for the business traveller, rooms include dataports,
satellite TV and plenty of natural light. Wins bonus points
for the impressive, top-floor panoramic bar. Q170 rooms
(10 singles 79 - 200, 137 doubles 93 - 200, 16 suites
96 - 230, 7 apartments 128 - 430). PTHA
R6UFLGKDW hhhh
Courtyard by Marriott Warsaw Airport ul.
wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 01 00,
www.courtyardwarsawairport.com. In many senses
this place, almost directly opposite the check in desks, is
an extension of Warsaw Airport. People use the superb
lobby bar as a departure lounge, and for those with an
early morning start the big, comfortable rooms here are
as good a place as any to wait for a flight. Fear not the
noise of the planes: we slept like a baby (as did our baby)
even though our room had a direct view of the runway.
Q236 rooms (113 singles 215 - 720z, 121 doubles
215 - 720z, 2 apartments 1000 - 1350z). Breakfast
64z. Tax 8%. PTHARUFGKW hhhh
Novotel Warszawa Airport D-7, ul. 1 Sierpnia 1,
tel. (+48) 22 575 60 00, www.accorhotels.com.
Comfortably inside the mid-range bracket, Novotel is a
canny choice for those who expect professional standards
at competitive prices. Splashy colours, dataports and
shining bathrooms lend a comfortable, practical tone to
the rooms. Q281 rooms (280 singles 210 - 540z, 280
doubles 210 - 540z, 1 apartments 790z). Breakfast 60z.
Tax 8%. PTHAR6UFLGKDW hhh
Airport Hotels
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Residence 1898 B- 4, ul. Marszakowska 72, tel.
(+48) 22 523 62 78, www.1898.pl. Designer apartments
and studios aimed at the high-flying long-term traveller.
Accommodation comes fitted with state-of-the-art goodies
that include plasma screen TVs, DVD players and high speed
internet access. Sliding doors hide fully-equipped kitchens
and beautiful bathrooms complete with bath oils and dressing
gowns. Q24 rooms (24 apartments 95 - 150). No breakfast
served. PTAR6LG
Residence St. Andrews Palace B-4, ul. Chmielna
30, tel. (+48) 22 826 46 40, www.residencestandrews.
pl. Fantastic apartments in a wonderful, fully renovated build-
ing in the most central location possible: ul. Chmielna. Not a
penny was spared in the decoration and fitting out of these
places, and the nice little touches that are found all over -
from the marble in the bathrooms to the fully fitted kitchens
with washing machines and dishwashers - will convince you
that this was money well spent. Free Wifi and daily cleaning
included. If this were a hotel, it would be in the Cream of the
Crop section, these apartments are that nice. Q24 rooms
(24 apartments 65 - 190). PTARGW
Senator Warsaw D-3, ul. Skierniewicka 12/14, tel.
(+48) 508 89 90 21, www.kategoraplaces.com. Big,
bright modern apartments in a new building close to the
Warsaw Uprising Museum. A range of sizes, they sleep par-
ties of all size, and are flexible given that all the sofas convert
to beds. Bathrooms especially good, and the kitchens lack
not a single utensil we could think of. And we thought of quite
a few. Q8 rooms (8 apartments 37 - 70). No breakfast
served. TA6LGW
38
RESTAURANTS
24hr Eateries
Bar Warszawa B-2, ul. Miodowa 2, tel. (+48) 504 32
04 97, www.barwarszawa.pl. Slightly hipper than your
traditional late-night establishment thanks to its location
off Krakowskie Przedmiecie, Bar Warszawa still has the
ridiculously cheap Polish food and grumpy employees to
make your dining experience authentic. The only menu is
the one posted behind the bar - which is where you order
- - and its not in English, but its easy to mime an order
for a 4z beer and 8z soup for the annoyed bartender
(when she isnt outside smoking). The best part: theyre
open 24 hours, and theres no better hangover cure than
their steaming flaczki and an unpasteurized local beer.
Q Open 24hrs.
African
La MaMa A-2, ul. Andersa 23, tel. (+48) 22 226 35
05, www.lamama.eu. It helps to have an adventurous
appetite at Warsaws newest contribution to African dining,
where no one bats an eye i f you order the baked goat head
or a pile of fried gizzards. Stick to safer fare like the African
risotto with beef and fried plantain and your stomach will
thank you - and be sure to add a Nigerian beer like Star or
Gulder. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (20-60z).
TAGSW
American
Champions Sports Bar & Restaurant B- 4, Al.
Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. (+48) 22
630 51 19, www.champions.pl. The best known sports
bar in town. Autographed shirts, trophies, parping darts
machines and even a boxing ring, theyre all here. Squeezed
between the glitz and dazzle are sports screens of every
size and style, ensuring a largely male audience dont miss
a kick in between pig big portions of cheeseburgers, wings
and potato skins. Find it on the ground floor of Warsaws
most vi si bl e hotel. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (30-95z).
PTAUXSW
Hard Rock Cafe B-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Is there
anything more American than sinking your teeth into a 10oz
burger stacked with cheddar and bacon while staring at the
jacket worn by Jimi Hendrix on the cover of Are You Experi-
enced? The Hard Rock Cafe has based a business around the
concept of unrivalled burgers and impressive memorabilia,
and Warsaws chapter is no different. The two-story venue
features a wall made of 675 guitars and menu items like hefty
nachos and barbecue ribs. The dark basement bar churns
out heaping drinks that look like they require two straws.
Even the bathrooms are painfully cool, labelled Guns for
him and Roses for her. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (29-89z).
PTAUEGSW
Sioux B-4, ul. Chmielna 35, tel. (+48) 22 827 82 55,
www.sioux.com.pl. Sioux interprets the American Wild
West as only a chain of themed restaurants can: cheesely.
Grab a Conestoga wagon booth or a table under a framed
photo of Chief Sitting Bull and peruse a menu that tries to
recreate li fe around the campfire with unimpressive ribs,
cold fries and a random selection of Mexican offerings like
fajitas and burritos. Youll find a Sioux serving up cheap,
completely average food in almost every city of size in Po-
land, and unless youre a diehard wagon wheel fanatic, trot
your spurs on to a more interesting (and flavourful) option.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (20-99z).
PTAUGSW
Warsaws come a long way and fast, and nowhere is the
urban vibrancy more apparent than in the citys progres-
sive culinary scene. The immediate post-communist
obsession with Italian has since given way to fusion,
sushi and - most recently - Indian trends, and dining out
is now a truly international experience.
Disappointments do still exist, however, with gruff, ditzy
or plainly incompetent service being a common lament.
Youd think the opening hours we list are self-explanatory.
Not so. Venues will more often than not close their doors
if business is slow. Other restobars often employ differ-
ent sets of hours for bar and kitchen - the times we list in
such cases are for the kitchen. By and large reservations
are only necessary for large groups, and the prices we
list in brackets denote the cost of the cheapest and
most expensive main course on the menu. As regards
tipping, either round the bill up or leave 10% - but only if
you think the service warrants it. Here is a selection of
recommendations depending what you are looking for.
Business: The renovated Lobby bar at the Marriott is
an ideal unofficial office whose central location makes
it easy to embark to points around Warsaw. Restau-
racja Rozana is an experienced local offering that will
impress the client and give you room to talk shop, while
Butchery and Wine recently won accolades as the
citys top restaurant.
Cheap: The many Bar Mleczny canteens (Milk Bars) are
a legacy to the communist past, and while theyre cheap
you may wish to swerve them unless you really are bone
broke and starving. If you prefer a more upscale form of
cheap check out Sony, an adult snack bar created by
famed Polish chef Magda Gessler - prices range from
6-12zl for small dishes. For straight up pierogis you cant
get cheaper than Podwale 5.
Couples: Sample 21st century cuisine at Atelier Ama-
ro, where courses are called moments and molecular
gastronomy is king thanks to star chef Wojciech Modest
Amaro. Belvederes setting inside Lazienki Park means
it oozes romance and the food is stellar to boot. We also
like Roma Bukieterias cosy interior that echoes the
romance of an authentic Italian trattoria.
Kids: Check out the Sunday Brunches held in hotels
across Warsaw; most come armed with a nanny and
games, giving you carte blanche to eat and be merry.
Hard Rock Cafe is always going to be a favourite and
they do know how to make your special ones feel special.
Lads: The Warsaw Tortilla Factory is the place to
prove your worth to the team by guzzling lager from
private taps while noshing on the citys best burritos.
Bierhalle offer both in-house brewed beers and a menu
of good international food to soak it all up. Or if you like
creative burgers and fries were fans of the Sheratons
Someplace Else.
Polski: Eat Commie style in Oberza Pod Czerwonym
Wieprzem, or for the peasant experience (complete
with lard spread) try Chlopskie Jadlo or Folk Gospoda.
Meanwhile Dekanta give you the chance to experience
food from the time of the partitions with their menu from
Austro-Hapsburg times. And Pierrogeria in the Old Town
will satisfy your craving for meat-packed dough pockets.
Eating at a glance
40
RESTAURANTS
41
RESTAURANTS
SomePl ace El se C- 4, ul . Prusa 2 (Sheraton
Warsaw Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.
warszawa.someplace- else.pl. SPE has been serving
up some of the best burgers in Warsaw for as l ong as
we can remember, and a recent visi t shows li ttl e has
changed: the Orient Express burger is a marriage of lamb
and roast beef doused in hallumi cheese and Medi ter-
ranean veggi es - epi c and creati ve. The large, open bar
is capabl e of mi xing up anything you can think of, includ-
ing a spi cy bl oody Mary to accompany the Sheratons
brunch, whi ch is served here on Sunday. Recommended
particularly i f you are sleeping upstairs so you wont have
far to haul your happil y fed sel f. QOpen 12:00 - 00:30,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (41-160z).
PTAUEGSW
Asian
Yummy C- 4, ul. Krucza 16/22 (entrance from ul.
Wilcza 20), tel. (+48) 797 83 06 39, www.restau-
racjayummy.pl. Not just a clever name, folks. Yummys
expansive menu truly is Asian in that it covers Vietnam
(amazing pho), Thailand (heaps of steaming pad Thai) and
China (dim sum) all with equal success. The decor is an
upmarket chic of paper lanterns and orchids rather than
Maneki Neko cats and fortune cookies, and the Chinese
plum wine is a nice break from the usual vodkas and pale
lagers. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (17-
28z). PTAGS
Balkan
Banja Luka G- 6, ul. Puawska 101, tel. (+48) 22
854 07 82, www.banjaluka.pl. Warsaws best garden?
Quite possibly. As the evenings get longer head here for a
relaxing, laid back meal al fresco. And even if it rains the
interiors have bags of atmosphere as well, and the rough
carpentry and local pottery make a nice backdrop for some
serious feasting. Oh, and bring an appetite, portions here are
immense, and almost certainly enough to give your scales
something to worry about. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (37-79z).
PTAEXSW
Brazilian
Browar de Brasil B- 4, ul. Marszakowska 76/80,
tel. (+48) 534 60 09 90, www.browardebrasil.pl. The
large copper tanks are your first clue that this new two-story
churrascaria is serious about brewing their own high-quality
beer. The attire worn by the waitresses might throw you off
for a minute - yes, they are dressed in tacky, revealing faux
football uniforms - but the four in-house beers are worthy, and
carnivores will swoon at the ten different types of meat that
arrive on a giant sword in all-you-can-eat style for 59z. Sure
to be as popular as the flagship d location. QOpen 12:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (18-59z). PTAXSW
British
Legends British Bar & Restaurant B-4, ul. Emilii
Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legendsbar.
pl. Legends is settling gently into its rhythm as the thinking
(and eating) mans football watching venue of choice. Basi-
cally has two things going for it: good British grub (a steak and
kidney to relish is served), British ales and Sky Sports (if the
waitress can work out which channel is showing what). What
it needs now are a few pints spilt on the floor and a few rowdy
evenings to knock off the new look. Find it a stones throw
south of the Marriott hotel. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 21:00. (25-50z). PTA6XSW
Chinese
Cesarski Paac B-2, ul. Senatorska 27, tel. (+48)
22 827 97 07, www.cesarski-palac.com.pl. The lunch
deal is one of the best value in the city, so expect a bit
of a free-for-all once the clock hits one. The food is a mix
of Chinese flavours, wi th more Szechuan than Beijing,
though its this lack of focus that eventually hamstrings
this locale: theres just too much on offer. I f they stuck
to what they knew best it could easil y become one of
the better Asian eateri es i n Warsaw. QOpen 12:00 -
23:00, Sat 12:30 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 22:00. (29-136z).
PTA6UGSW
China Garden ul. Kazachska 1 (Wilanw), tel. (+48) 22
241 10 10, www.chinagarden.pl. Excellent food served
in an elegant but relaxed atmosphere down in the moneyed
Wilanow district of Warsaw. Unlike many Chinese restaurants
the decoration is tastefully done with tiled floors, lanterns
and lots of reds and blacks with an aquarium and fountain
centrepieces. The food is authentic with a particular focus
on the cuisine of the Jiangsu region and the menu offers a
comprehensive choice of dishes including a beautifully pre-
sented Nanjing duck. Of note if you are visiting the palace at
Wilanow, youll find it a 10 minute walk along Klimczaka, the
start of which is the left of the two streets directly across
the road from the palace entrance. Its definitely worth the
walk and arguably even the cab fare from the centre. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (22-59z). PTAUVGSW
The Oriental C- 3, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw
Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 05, www.theoriental.pl.
Exquisite dishes at premium prices. The menu covers every
kitchen from Japan to Singapore, with the seafood earning
particularly high scores. Q Brunch is only available on
Sunday. Open 17:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:30. (35-140z).
PTAUGSW
Czech
U Szwejka F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. (+48) 22 339
17 10, www.uszwejka.pl. This aging establishment,
equipped with Czech street signs and images of simpleton
Szwejk, is a bit of a Warsaw classic, and while it looks brash
and basic the food is fine and the portions are scary. The
steak is inconsistent, so best stick to ordering standards
like sausages and schnitzel, and visit in summer when a
terrace opens onto Pl. Konstytucji. Patience is a good tactic
to use with the staff, but theres certainly no criticism of the
Pilsner on draught - cut the dismal waiting times by order-
ing in steins. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun
13:00 - 24:00. (18-52z). PTAEXSW
French
Bistro de Paris B-2, Pl. Pisudskiego 9, tel. (+48) 22
826 01 07, www.restaurantbistrodeparis.com. What
was once a haven of voluptuous drapes and vintage bottles
has muted its tone - gone is the froufrou elegance, replaced
instead by a crisp design that hints at Gallic class. Yes, head
chef Michel Moran has created a masterpiece, and the menu
here, particularly the fish, is rightfully regarded as one of the
highlights of foodie Warsaw. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. Closed
Sun. (69-93z). PTAGS
ORIGINAL
CHINESE CUISINE
CESARSKI PALAC
Senatorska 27
tel. 022 827 97 07
www.cesarskipalac.com
Belvedere G-5, ul. Agrykoli 1 (New Orangery in
azienki Park (enter from ul. Parkowa), tel. (+48) 22
558 67 00, www.belvedere.com.pl. Between 12:00-
17:00 guests pay 125z for a welcome drink of Polish vodka,
a mix of buffet and regular dishes, live music and even a des-
sert buffet. Kids 6-12 pay 50%, free under six, and theyre
kept entertained by a babysitter. Q PTAEGW
Dom Polski H-3, ul. Francuska 11, tel. (+48) 22 616
24 32, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. 13:00-16:30.
89z (kids under 6 free) gets you a Polish buffet of hot
and cold dishes and a glass of wine. Q PTAUG
Hiltons Meza E-3, ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. (+48)
22 356 55 76, www.hiltonwarsaw.pl. Warsaws Hilton
has a humdinger of a brunch. From 12:30-16:00 159z
(kids under 6 free, 6-12 pay 70z) gets you premium sea-
food (lobster!), prime rib of Angus beef cut in front of your
eyes, sushi and superb desserts, not to mention Bloody
Marys and sparkling wine. Plus a kids corner keeps your
little treasures happy. Q PTAUG
Hotel Marriotts Lilla Weneda B-4, Al. Jerozolim-
skie 65/79, tel. (+48) 22 630 51 76, www.marriott.
com/wawpl. A Sunday institution. From 12:30-16:00
159z (6-14 hal f price, under six free) gets unlimited
ywiec, cocktails made with White Vodka and Vodka
ubrwka, wine and soft drinks. The buffet includes a
sushi bar, salad bar and international food as well as
something called kcik chopski (Peasants Corner) with
dishes of traditional Old Polish cuisine. In the kids corner
a childminder keeps things lively.QPTAUEG
Hyatt Hotels Venti Tre G-5, ul. Belwederska 23,
tel. (+48) 22 558 12 34, www.warsaw.regency.
hyatt.com. From 12:30 - 16:30. 165z (half price ages
6-12, free under six). Hot and cold meals, sushi, wine, beer
and soft drinks. Kids section comes with TV, toys, baby-
sitter and a separate menu. Q PTAUEGW
Intercontinentals Downtown Restaurant &
Steakhouse A-4, ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. (+48) 22
328 87 45, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com.
The brunch by which all others shall be judged. 165zl
wins you a heaping buffet, beer and wine, and even a
lavish Wedel-created chocolate fountain. Live music
entertains the adults, and the kiddie corner (the buffet
is half price for kids 6-12, free under six) features child
care, a tot menu and a live magician. Q Open Sunday
12:30-16:00. PTAUEGW
Sheraton C-4, ul. Prusa 2, tel. (+48) 22 450 67 05,
www.sheraton.pl/en. Open Sunday 12:30-16:30. One
of the most popular brunches in Warsaw. 169z (children
4-12 half price, under 4 free) gets you unlimited booze
and a choice of Mediterranean and Asian cuisine at all
three Sheraton dining venues (The Oriental, SomePlace
Else and The Olive). Q PTAUEGW
The Westins Fusion A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 21,
tel. (+48) 22 450 86 31, www.restauracjafusion.
pl. Sunday brunch 12:30 - 16:30. 165z (half price ages
5-12, free under five) includes fusion dishes, wine and the
possibility of a Mongolian wok at your table. Kids corner
comes with a babysitter, toys, Playstation and separate
menu. Q PTAUGW
Sunday Brunch
I f you have an opinion about any of the venues listed
in this guide, let the two million regular unique visitors
to our website, www.inyourpocket.com, know about
it. Every venue on our website now has a function for
comments, be they critical, complimentary or comical,
so spill it.
Osteria
In my opinion one of the best restaurants in Europe in
terms of food quality and service. It is not cheap but really
worth visiting this place. I recommend!
Eliza, 12 December 2011

Natara
Simply put: amazing!
Greg, Toronto, 5 January 2012

St. Jacques
A brilliant place. Excellent food. I enjoyed the quail.
However they must learn to make potatoes Dauphinoise.
I ordered it but received mashed potatoes! Never mind!
Kenneth Robinson, Warrington, 9 October 2011

St. Traffo
We ate here twice whilst staying in Warsaw and re-
ally loved this venue. The chevre salad was delicious
as was the goulash and fish mains but the desserts,
particularly the cheesecake which is the best Ive tried,
were to die for!
Maree, Melbourne, 31 October 2011
Have Your Say
42
RESTAURANTS
43
RESTAURANTS
Charlotte chleb i wino F- 4, Al. Wyzwolenia 18
(entrance from Pl. Zbawiciela), tel. (+48) 22 628 44
59, www.bistrocharlotte.com. Sinking your teeth into
Charlottes pain au chocolate you expect to hear La Seine
bubbling past, but instead its your waitress bringing giant
jars of jams, honey and chocolate spread to dig into - this
doesnt look like typical French portion control. This new
French bakery/bistro is already a popular breakfast spot, and
a communal table in the center of the restaurant is a genius
solution for the many solo diners ducking in for a pastry and
a latte. The service at this start-up is still spotty, but consid-
ering the crowds its also understandable. Charlotte is the
ideal place to sip a Perrier and nibble a tart without feeling
like le snob. QOpen 07:00 - 23:45, Sat 09:00 - 23:45, Sun
09:00 - 21:45. (8-16z). TA6GSW
NEW
LArc Varsovie G-6, ul. Puawska 16, tel. (+48) 519 00
00 50, www.larc.pl. Upscale dining options are on the rise
in Warsaw, and LArc Varsovie brings its A game with offerings
of fresh seafood and French staples like chicken roulade.
Lobster is their claim to fame, and its easy to start your meal
with the rich cream of lobster soup if you (and your wallet)
arent prepared to go all in on a full tail. The black and white
interior suggests a smart French brasserie, and the service
is in the running for the most attentive weve experienced on
Polish soil. The only hiccup: no napkins! Puzzling, but we can
overlook it (as they apparently they did). QOpen 09:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (40-100z). PTAUEGSW
La Rotisserie B-1, ul. Kocielna 12 (Mamaison Le
Regina Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 531 60 70, www.leregina.
com. Tucked inside the elegant Mamaison Hotel, this high
impact treasure presided over by chef Pawel Oszczyk will
leave you bowled over. Decorated with calming vanilla and
caramel colours, Rotisserie is a worthy indulgence if youre
looking to impress and have the bank to do it. The chefs tast-
ing menu is the place to splurge, with six courses of Polish/
French cuisine that emphasises seasonal foods, while the
three-course lunch menu lets budget conscious foodies get
their hands on the likes of fennel soup, loin of venison and an
apple trio for dessert. Recommended. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00. (68-118z). PTAGSW
Saint Jacques A-3, ul. witokrzyska 34, tel. (+48)
22 620 25 31, www.saintjacques.pl. Directly across
the road from the Warsaw Financial Centre and a few more
metres from the Intercontinental hotel, this French venture
is adorably quaint and well located. A range of well-prepared
French favourites (including frogs legs and snails) are served
amongst black and white floor-to-ceiling pictures of French
street scenes that make it easy to forget the busy city
speeding by outside. The lamb shank with herbs and truffle
puree and brunoise vegetables is their signature dish for a
reason, but we were equally delighted with the rustic savoury
crepes. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (34-56z). PTAGSW
Fusion
Babalu G-1, ul. Kopotowskiego 33, tel. (+48) 22 424
66 66, www.babalu.pl. The set up is straight forward in
Babalu, simply pay a set fee (30-40zl, depending on the time
and day) and then walk amid canteen-style buffet stations
helping yourself to whatever is on offer. In this case its a
range of international offerings, including Thai, Chinese and
Mediterranean, served inside a kid friendly environment
that can get seriously lively. The results are open to debate,
depending what you have, though we confirm their Thai
experiment as certainly more hit than miss - try the soups.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (30-40z). PTAGW
Fusion A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 21 (The Westin Hotel),
tel. (+48) 22 450 86 31, www.restauracjafusion.pl.
Beautifully presented food in the modern, if regularly quiet,
interiors of the Westin hotel. The food here is very good, if a
tad pricey compared to city restaurants, but you get what you
pay for, with everything being of a superior quality. Regular
seasonal specials based around particular ingredients keep
happy local foodies coming back for more. Great brunch. Q
Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 10:30,
12:30 - 22:30. (45-150z). PTAUGSW
Papaya C-3, ul. Foksal 16, tel. (+48) 22 826 11 99,
www.papaya.waw.pl. Well never tire of recommending
Papaya, an ice white venue rated as one of the best restau-
rants in the city. Oysters come plucked from the aquarium,
while an open kitchen allows the pleasure of watching the
chefs at work; these guys dont miss a beat, and show off
every trick in the book as they create standout dishes like
steamed bass in banana leaf. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (32-
265z). PTAXSW
Sense C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 19, tel. (+48) 22 826 65
70, www.sensecafe.com. Pioneers on the craft cocktail
scene, Sense was once one of the coolest places in town
to eat or drink. Warsaw has moved on and Sense is typically
now a place you come to drink rather than dine. The menus
cheesy labels - soup is simply called wet, while appetiz-
ers are foreplay - are groan-worthy, and the need to label
everything as sensual is slightly creepy (we asked for the
most sensual table in the house upon arrival and were told
they were all equally steamy). The food itself has unfortu-
nately become rather hit or miss, though we still like pretty
much everything that comes from the wok despite one of
our favourite dishes being called wok n roll. Sigh. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 00:30, Sun 13:00 - 20:45.
(25-69z). PTAGBSW
Theatro C-3, ul. Foksal 18, tel. (+48) 22 828 09 32,
www.theatro1811.com. Newcomer Theatro is easily the
most grown-up place on Warsaws busy Foksal Street. The
interiors instantly wow - and make you reflexively smooth
your attire - and show an impressive attention to detail in
everything from the stone walls to the immaculately set
tables. Where Theatro loses steam is its enormous menu;
our waiter had to be sent away twice as we pawed through
pages of just drink choices. Fusion seems to mean ev-
erything but the kitchen sink, and the well-priced entrees
can be hit (mix vegetable salad) and miss (a gluey papardelle
pasta). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (30-75z). PTAXSW
Galician
C.K. Obera B-4, ul. Chmielna 28, tel. (+48) 22 828
45 85, www.ckoberza.pl. Budget priced dinners, pints of
lager and a bubbly atmosphere come presented inside a
basic room decked out in dark woods. The menu is all pork
chops, potato pancakes and plates of animals, and happily
consumed by crowds who recognize a serious bargain. QO-
pen 11:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (25-44z). AGS
Georgian
Bar Gruziski Argo B-2, ul. Piwna 46, tel. (+48) 22
635 06 03. Where once was the smallest curry house in
all Poland now stands a Georgian chop house which serves
brilliant food at cracking prices. The lamb in plum sauce is
top notch, and the chinkali (Georgian dumplings) will give any
pierogi in town a run for their money. Only a handful of tables,
so reserve if you want to eat here at weekends. QOpen
13:00 - 22:00. (24-38z). GS
When it comes to trends, Poland is often late to adopt
what other countries would now consider routine. So it
goes with the green, eco-friendly fad, which has reached
a fevered pitch in many major cities while Warsaw is
just beginning to embrace the idea. A group of new (and
already popular) venues are using their green status as
a major lure for customers in effort we expect will soon
be duplicated all over the city.
Caf 6/12 C-4, ul. urawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22 622
53 33, www.612.pl. A prominent Warsaw caf, and one
popular with ad execs and scenesters. Making good use
of the high ceilings and socialist granite touches 6/12
features trance like music and subdued lighting, adding
a chilled out element to this long-living establishment.
However, this place is so much more than a caf, and
a thumb through the menu confirms so; the smoothies,
and theres millions to choose from, are hands down the
best in the city, while food choices include a range of
light gourmet bites youd imagine a Kate Moss character
stabbing her fork at. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 23:00. (36-67z). PTA6GSW
Green Patio B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 47a, tel. (+48)
22 628 21 04, www.greenpatio.pl. Feeling like all the
heavy Polish food is throwing your colon out of wack? Green
Patios wildly healthy tome of a menu has just the thing for
you. All of their offerings are clearly labelled with hints such
as high in fiber to help right your digestive track, like the
grilled tuna (vitamins and heart) or the chicken breast
with rocket salad (good for pregnant women). All can be
had in the quaint outdoor garden or inside the impressive
modern green interior - yep, theres a tree growing inside.
Sit beneath its shade and enjoy a smoothie designed
specifically to improve your health. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (28-44z). PTAUEGSW
Green Peas Eco bar & coffee B-3, ul. Szpitalna
5, tel. (+48) 228261985, www.greenpeas.pl. If the
mossy paint color didnt tip you off, then the menu at Green
Peas Eco Bar and Coffee will: these folks are seriously green.
Everything is made from organic products free from genetic
modifications and chemicals, theres no microwave on the
premises, nothing is deep-fried and dates are typically sub-
stituted for sugar to maintain their quest for natural cooking.
The menu was designed with the environment in mind,
which can sound boring on paper but is delicious on the
plate. Salads are just 14zl and combine impressively fresh
greens with homemade dressing, and tofu is a word youll
see often. Even the cola is organic! QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. (12-22z). PTA6VGSW
Klubokawiarnia Resort B-2, ul. Bielaska 1, tel. (+48)
507 17 99 35. What looks like a normal caf at first glance
is anything but: old bathtubs have been turned into couches,
metal shopping carts now serve as seats, and the bar is
made from colourful stacks of old books (its worth a visit to
their Facebook page to see how they created this unique bar).
Even cardboard tubes have been reinvented as chairs. While
the dcor is decidedly reused, the food and drinks are true
originals. Cocktails are made with fresh fruit, while stomachs
can be lined with whatver tasty concoctions the chef comes up
with on a regular basis. Fortunately, you can drink your bottled
beer or Argentine cola without any guilt since Resort makes
recycling a part of its mission. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 06:00. (8-15z). PAEXSW
Healthy eating
Sure, it started out as
a joke: In 1990 satirist
Janusz Rewinski formed
the Pol i sh Fri ends of
Beer Party (Polska Par-
ti a Pr z yjaci ol Pi wa
or PPPP i n Pol i sh) to
promote the countrys
second most bel oved
beverage duri ng t he
new shi ft in government. The concept was popular
enough, in fact, to inspire a similar party in Russia as
well. And thanks to some disillusionment with Polands
democratic transition after the end of communism a
number of Poles voted for the prank party, and in the
1991 parliamentary elections 16 seats were nabbed
by the PPPP. What started out as a joke their slogan
regarding the party running Poland: it wouldnt be
better but for sure it would be funnier evolved into
a semi-serious platform thanks to the newly acquired
seats. Of course, the divided cannot conquer, so when
the party split into Large Beer and Small Beer factions
it signalled the end of the jokey era, and eventually
the Large Beer faction transformed into the far less
humorous Pol i sh Economi c Program. Today l i ttl e
remains of the group except for well-earned entries
in top ten lists of most ridiculous political parties and
Facebook groups celebrating the original idea: that
consuming quality beer is a symbol of freedom and a
better standard of living.
Polish Friends of Beer Party
polskapartianarodowa.org
44
RESTAURANTS
45
RESTAURANTS
Maa Gruzja B- 4, ul. Nowogrodzka 40, tel. (+48)
530 91 29 71, www.mala-gruzja.pl. Second Georgian
restaurant to open its doors in the space of a few months,
the more the merrier we say. A slightly sunken establishment
with sturdy tables and boisterously friendly staff who want
you to have a nice time, and who serve up big portions of all
your Georgian faves, such as braised lamb in Georgian white
wine, cooked until its so tender it melts in the mouth. Cheap
as chips, its a winner in our book. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30,
Sun 13:00 - 22:30. (19-49z). AGS
German
Adler C-4, ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48) 22 628 73
84, www.adlerrestauracja.pl. Its been years since Adler
was touted as a top restaurant, but those who do visit will
find just that. Still popular with an over-40 business crowd
this circular haunt comes laden with peasant contraptions,
and serves up classic German recipes presented by girls
dressed as Heidi. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 13:00 -
23:30. (39-65z). PTA6GS
Greek
El Greco A-3, ul. Grzybowska 9, tel. (+48) 22 654 04 58,
www.elgreco-restauracja.pl. On the downside is a location
on the ground floor of a hulking sixties tower block. Fortunately
theyve done a good job on doing it up, and youll only notice now
weve told you. It certainly looks the deal with a light, bright at-
mosphere, while the menu is the complete Grecian experience,
right down to the excellent seafood. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (34-72z). PTAUXSW
Hungarian
Borpince B-4, ul. Zgoda 1, tel. (+48) 22 828 22 44,
www.borpince.pl. Good trout, as well as the signature
Hungarian dish: goulash. If your pleasures are more liquid
then youll be pleased to know theyve also got a bit of a rep
as a wine bar; we counted over 100 on their list, and have
been assured that in reality they stock over 100. QOpen
12:00 - 22:30. (28-82z). PTAGS
Indian
Annapurna A- 4, ul. Twarda 56, tel. (+48) 22 409
44 00, www.annapurnarestauracja.pl. The location is
unpromising, as is the exterior, but they manage to over-
come such trifles and make customers happy by serving
up some very good Asian food. We are usually wary of
places that try to do too much (its mainly an Indian menu,
but its fused with flavours from further east) but we were
impressed here. The garlic duck with chilli was ace. And hot.
Perfect place for groups. QOpen 11:30 - 22:00. (22-40z).
PTAUVGSW
Bollywood Lounge B-3, ul. Przeskok 2, tel. (+48)
22 827 02 83, www.bollywoodlounge.pl. Dark and low-
ceilinged, Bollywood feels like the kind of on-the-mark Indian
restaurant that friends tell friends about. Paging through the
menu to the beat of Bhangra music, diners will find some of
the best Indian food in the city - more chicken dishes than
we can count (from tikka masala to tandoori) and creamy
paneer options to boot. The 18zl lunch specials remain
popular with local businessmen, who arent above throwing
a shisha in to seal the deal. One thing that has seen a major
improvement is the service, with attentive waitresses who
bring both the food and the bill at impressive speeds. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 14:00 - 01:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. (25-36z). PTAUXSW
Bombaj Masala A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 23, tel. (+48)
606 68 87 77, www.bombajmasala.pl. This local favourite
has expanded from its small location in Mokotw to include a
surprisingly upscale spot on Jana Pawla, and the suits are all
the better for it. Our tikka masala actually had a respectable
kick (rare in spice-averse Poland) and the palak paneer was both
creamy and rich. The real gem of this new location, however, is
the service. Our waitress was happy to toss out recommenda-
tions (get lasooni nan over plain nan) and was exceptionally
attentive. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (16-42z). PTAUGS
Ganesh F-4, ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. (+48) 22 623 02 66,
www.ganesh.pl. If you can move past the overwhelming in-
cense that greets you at the door, Ganesh offers hearty helpings
of Indian food set in a well-planned, modern Eastern interior.
Heaps of pillows and Bollywood films on the flatscreens round
out the experience, but rarely did our focus stray from the tikka
masala and chicken madras. Both offer a spiciness that is rare
to find among a populace that fears a burning tongue. QOpen
12:00 - 23:30. (30-50z) PTAVGSW
Saffron Spices F- 4, Plac Konstytucji 3, tel. (+48)
22 622 94 10, www.saffronspices.pl. Open less than
a year and Saffron Spices has already made big changes,
shifting the restaurant from a drab, undecorated space on
Plac Konstytucji to a two-story mammoth with views of the
street and more atmosphere. Fortunately the food remains
consistently good: the restaurants signature lentil dish is
an instant favourite, pairing deliciously with piping hot naan.
The crunchy onion bhaji are also a good pre-meal option,
especially since the speedy staff brings them out ahead
of the main course. An additional Asian menu of dishes like
pad Thai and fried rice is now also available, but were par-
tial to the Indian staples. QOpen 11:00 - 22:30. (15-35z).
PTAUGSW
Warsaws restaurant trends come in tsunami-like waves
that sweep over the city and change the dining landscape
seemingly overnight. The latest culinary fad to dominate
the city will please carnivorous folks: the steakhouse is
king. Talk of prime cuts, grass-fed beef and who has
the best New York strip can be hashed out at this list of
Warsaws steak-centric restaurants.
Butchery & Wine B-4, ul. urawia 22, tel. (+48) 22
502 31 18, www.butcheryandwine.pl. A wonderful addi-
tion to the Warsaw dining scene winning points for originality
and simplicity. Try to put the image of mass slaughter over a
glass of Cabernet Sauvignon out of your mind and instead
visit to be met by a polite and well-drilled staff in pin-striped
butchers aprons inside a bright, modern, relaxed venue with
an open kitchen and enough wine on display to float a battle-
ship. The menu features a range of real steaks prepared
exactly to order and served on wooden boards with additional
sauce and side options. While it doesnt have to be steak
(the rest of menu looked mouth-watering) we cant imagine
ever daring to order anything but such was the enjoyment we
took from eating one. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sun. (28-190z). PTAGW
Downtown Restaurant & Steakhouse A-4, ul.
Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel), tel. (+48)
22 328 87 45, www.downtown.com.pl. Considering
these are the same folks who bust out one of Warsaws
most lavish Sunday buffet each week, its no surprise
that the Intercontinentals Downtown restaurant holds
nothing back on their extravagant steak menu. The
meaty choices are global, with selections ranging from a
cut of U.S. Longhorn from Iowa to a tender hunk of Charo-
lais beef from Frances Burgundy region. Steaks can be
paired with one of five sauces and seven sides, and all
you need to provide is the post-meal belt-loosening. Q
Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sat
06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sun 06:30
- 10:30, 12:30 - 16:00. (39-185z). PTAUEGW
El Toro Steak House C-4, ul. Wiejska 13, tel. (+48)
22 625 76 98, www.eltororestaurant.com.pl. Once
upon a time El Toro was a Tex-Mex restaurant with a
reliable - - if unmemorable - - steak-centric menu. After a
recent overhaul theyve added some sass to the operation
in the form of an updated menu and the shift to a Mexican
Przekski Zakski offering on the weekends (Friday and
Saturday from 18:00-24:00) that include 5zl tequila shots
and competitively priced burritos and quesadillas. They
still have affordable steaks of course and we can vouch for
the picante burger, which was dripping in jalapenos. And
were glad to see the painted desert scene and dangling
sombreros werent nixed. Note that during Carnaval there
will be DJs on Friday nights. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. (30-82z) TA6GSW
Quick Steak & Music B-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote
Tarasy), tel. (+48) 530 96 99 99, www.quicksteak.
pl. Dining trends are easy to spot in Warsaw, and now that
the sushi wave has crested were on to steak-centric res-
taurants popping up around town. Quick Steak in the lower
level of Zote Tarasy is an entry-level option in this category.
Our service came with a sneer, and the steak and salad
both proved to be perfectly average entrees. The dcor
is one that is popular in Poland: glamorous New York, with
large scenes of the skyline and loud crooner tunes pumping
from the speakers. Satisfying but highly forgettable. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00. (24-79z). PTAUXSW
Steak
Sheesha Lounge B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 3, tel. (+48)
22 828 25 25, www.sheesha.pl. Already established
as one of Warsaws most exotic nightspots Sheesha also
does a solid trade in luring the pre-drinks crowd in with a
tantalising menu of eastern delights. Almost every table
appears to order in bulk and share the piles of meaty
kofta and chicken biriyani or the sweet and sour chicken,
then caps the meal off with a fruity sheesha pipe passed
around the table for dessert. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri
12:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. (28-
44z). PTAXSW
Indonesian
Galeria Bali & Buddha Club B-3, ul. Jasna 22, tel.
(+48) 22 828 67 71, www.galeriabali.pl. A lavish and
elaborate effort where staff in ceremonial attire lead diners
to a dining room adorned with imported keepsakes. The
incense filled interior is a riot of statuettes and iconography,
and everything you see is up for sale - including the great big
golden Buddha. The owner is a self-confessed nut when it
comes to Indonesia, and his passion is evident in the millions
of details that become apparent once your eyes finish roving.
That the local Indonesian community profess to dining here
should tell you enough about a menu that involves exotics
such as Bali style squid. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (25-400z).
PTA6GSW
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RESTAURANTS
47
RESTAURANTS
International
12 stolikw F-3, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 22 578
23 88. If the idea of a restaurant not having a menu sounds
pretentious, well, we thought the same thing. Fortunately the
concept turns out to be charming at 12 Stolikw, a small
restaurant that writes the ever-changing offerings on a
chalkboard facing diners. Waitresses are happy to interpret,
and though the transient system means you might not get
the delicious tomato soup with pesto or handmade ravioli
that we did, their quality indicates you cant go wrong. The
high ceilings and stacks of wine crates are all that pass for
dcor, but we couldnt take our eyes off the chef tempering
chocolate on the centre island - call it dinner and show. And
were not the only ones who think so: 12 Stolikow was named
one of the top five restaurants in Warsaw in 2011 by Gazeta
Wyborcza newspaper. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 09:00
- 22:30. (20-70z). PA6UGSW
99 Restaurant & Bar A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 23, tel.
(+48) 22 620 19 99, www.restaurant99.com. A fixture
on the Warsaw dining scene for over ten years and still going
strong in the local corporate lunch trade. An updated design
which is space age white and rather dashing compliments
a highly-recommended, global menu which includes whats
possibly the best steak in Warsaw. Located within a stones
throw of some of the citys finest hotels, this is one of the
most reliable places in town from breakfast through to supper
whether youre socialising, doing business or a bit of both.
QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 15:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (39-85z). PTAUEXSW
Akademia Smaku C-3, ul. Obona 9 lok. 106, tel.
(+48) 22 828 99 01, www.akademia-smaku.com.pl.
Theres no shortage of sex appeal in the Taste Academy, a
swish spot with mirrors fastened to the ceilings and neat rows
of wine bottles standing by the walls. The menu is positively
one dimensional compared to the complicated art you find
served on some Warsaw plates, and while it doesnt do
anything exciting what it does, it does well. A decent spot,
and not far from all the action either. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(19-79z). PTA6UEGSW
Amadera A-4, ul. Chmielna 13a, tel. (+48) 22 505 91
86, www.amadera.pl. A recommended eatery just off one
of the citys main pedestrian thoroughfares. The modern
wooden furnishings give an elegant feel without making the
place snooty and the friendly English-speaking staff do a
good job of making you feel welcome. The menu follows the
tried and tested combination of meats, fish, pasta and salads
with the roasted duck coming in for particular praise. Wed
recommend hitting them at lunch time when their special
menu gives you just the right amount of well-prepared food
at the right price. Set in a courtyard best accessed through
the gate at Chmielna 15. Also now serving breakfast, from
07:00-10:00 (Sat, Sun 08:00-11:00). QOpen 07:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. (36-58z). PTAUXSW
Bagno Food & Wine B-3, ul. Bagno 2, tel. (+48) 22
620 22 77, www.bagno2.pl. Bagno proves to be full of
surprises. A simple order of the tasty goulash and potato
pancakes comes accented unexpectedly (and successfully)
with pesto; the attentive staff manages a bustling lunchtime
trade of nearby office workers smoothly; and what appears
to be an industrial, concrete-and-plywood dcor is accented
with a series of large photos of naked Asian women in bond-
age. Thrown for a loop? You sure are, but its a good one.
The menu is short and to the point, with items like Italian
bruschetta and Asian sesame chicken blending together
seamlessly. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
(33-49z). PTAUGSW
Bezgraniczna B-3, ul. Grzybowska 2 lok. 20 (entrance
from ul. Graniczna), tel. (+48) 22 436 35 35, www.
bezgraniczna.pl. Well in the running for the title of Warsaws
best-hidden restaurant, this venue is in the unpromising
confines of the first floor of an office block/shopping centre.
Amazingly, however, with clever use of some very nice furniture
theyve managed to create a pleasant atmosphere worthy of
far grander locales. Decent food too, and though its far more
popular at lunchtime than in the evening the location should not
put you off: indeed, you can impress people with your knowl-
edge of Warsaw by bringing them here. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Mon, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (19-49z). PTA6UGSW
Bierhalle C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 64, tel. (+48) 609 67 77 65,
www.bierhalle.pl. Bierhalle have 2 locations in the city of which
this is the more central. Located on the equivalent of Warsaws
main street, youll find bench seating, generous portions of
good food and a tasty range of in-house brewed beers. Match a
stein of fresh pils with something from their picture menu which
features local favourites like pierogi, pork knuckle and kaszanka
(a kind of black pudding) as well as dishes more often associ-
ated with Polands beer drinking neighbours; German Wurst,
Austrian Schnitzel and Hungarian Goulash. Simple, accessible
and with regular promotions make this a popular spot. Also at
Al. Jana Pawa II 82 (D-1, Arkadia). QOpen 12:00 - 22:45, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 23:45, Sun 12:00 - 21:45. (18-50z). PTAGSW
Brasserie ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Courtyard by Marriott
Warsaw Hotel, Okcie), tel. (+48) 22 650 01 74, www.
courtyardwarsawairport.com. Situated in the Courtyard
Hotel opposite the airport this place makes its way into
our listings on account of being your best (and only) option
if youve just got off the flight from hell, have had your day
disrupted by strikes or find yourself between flights. Hats
off to him, head chef Tadeusz Cendrowicz has come up
with a belter of a menu, and your one problem will be fitting
through the plane door after. Check out the sirloin steak, or
for something more snacky choices like the club sandwich.
QOpen 06:00 - 22:30. (28-95z). PTAUGSW
BrowArmia B-3, ul. Krlewska 1, tel. (+48) 22 826 54
55, www.browarmia.pl. Warsaws other microbrewery tends
to mysteriously live in the shadow of the more famous Bierhalle,
and though it fails to share the lively atmosphere of its rival,
BrowArmia is by no means second best. The interior has a
dark beer hall vibe with all the requisite pipes, dials and tanks
on display, as well as a good menu that trounces the competi-
tion - the sticky wings pair perfectly with a BrowArmia pils. More
importantly the beer is top standard and best imbibed on the
seasonal terrace looking onto bustling Krakowskie Przedmi-
escie. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (27-66z). PTAEXSW
Deco Kredens C-3, ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. (+48) 22 826 06
60, www.kredens.com.pl. We love this place, a haven of real,
authentic charm just off the tourist beat of Nowy Swiat. Loads
of different rooms - all with an Art Deco bent - create a varied
atmosphere, and there are all sorts of ways to enjoy this place:
in the bar with a beer, with a coffee and cake or sitting down to a
full-on extravaganza of a meal. There is usually a special menu of
daily specials to watch out for: if they have them, we can recom-
mend firsthand the spinach pancakes with ricotta. QOpen 10:00
- 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (35-108z). PTAGSW
DeCoteria H-1, ul. Zbkowska 16, tel. (+48) 603 60
22 52, www.decoteriacafe.pl. A small restaurant with a
pleasant orange interior, DeCoteria is one of the few clutter-free
locations in Praga for a meal. Thanks to that role it has a crowd
that mixes young Praga hipsters with moms toting strollers, all
tucking into a menu that seems to offer dishes from around
the globe (ratatouille to roasted Bavarian beer knuckle). We
stuck to the Polish fare and found the potato pancakes to be a
winner. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (16-45z). TA6UGSW
The tour includes:
English speaking guide
Sightseeing of The Old Town,
Old Praga and Koneser
former Vodka Factory
Transportation to Praga
district
Free tasting of different
brands of Polish Vodka
Traditional Polish appetizers
If you want to know - join
The Connoiseur Tour!
If youhaveanyfurther questionsor youwant to
bookthetripcall:
(toursarefor 4or moreguests)
+q8 6ee z 6z8
48
RESTAURANTS
49
RESTAURANTS
Delikatesy Esencja G-4, ul. Marszakowska 8, tel.
(+48) 22 480 80 18, www.delies.pl. A simple, short
menu comprised of seasonal ingredients is the hallmark of
Delikatesy Esencja, where lunch will barely break 19z and
the service is impeccable (a compliment we rarely give out).
The long, narrow space leads out to a garden, where locals
lounge with fruit-infused teas and wine while hunched over
plates or risotto, goat cheese salads and grilled veggies. A
welcome respite from Polands heavier cuisine, Delikatesy
Esencja is a discovery waiting to be made. QOpen 08:00 -
22:30. (26-45z). PTA6UGSW
Etno A-3, ul. Grzybowska 5a, tel. (+48) 22 564 57 80, www.
etnorestauracja.pl. The first thing that will strike you about visiting
Etno is the number of men dining alone, with ID badges and silk
ties dangling from their necks. Considering its location in the citys
banking hub, it makes sense (and when women discover this, we
expect a corporate meat market to ensue). For now the menu is
upmarket includes a tuna steak on fried veggies in a cream sauce
for 40zl and salads from 25zl. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 -
22:00. (20-65z). PTA6UEGSW
Five A-3, ul. Grzybowska 5, tel. (+48) 793 53 53 53,
www.fiverestaurant.eu. Guaranteed a steady flow of
customers by its designer looks and top location amongst
Warsaws biggest and best hotels, this place doesnt have to
be all that good, but is. In fact, recent visits have made us love
the place all over again, as the menu of simple Italian classics
always delivers a decent meal at a fair price. Look out for
the changing specials, which on our last trip included some
terrific grilled salmon with leek sauce. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:30. (19-49z). PTAVGSW
Flow C-3, ul. Chmielna 2, tel. (+48) 519 30 00 68,
www.flowbar.pl. A light, bright cafe bar on the corner of
Chmielna and Nowy wiat, day time sees coffee and a decent
choice of lunch options served in a modern setting with large
windows offering plenty of people watching opportunities. As
day turns to night, this turns into a decent pre-club option with
guest DJs coming in to entertain the young and fashionable
crowd. One of the few central places with an indoor smoking
area incidentally. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAEXSW
Galeria Freta B-1, ul. Freta 39, tel. (+48) 22 831 02
35, www.galeriafreta.pl. Bar? Restaurant? Caf? A mix of
all to be honest, and a highly impressive addition to an area
more known for its tourist traps. Landmarks here include a
glass topped atrium filled with plants and posters, as well
as a more formal chamber consisting of antiques and gilt.
This place is huge, and well worth poking around, and while
the design suggests dollar signs it actually transpires to be
a very good deal. Salads are a particular forte, though more
voracious appetites should look to the king prawns. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00. (22-75z). PTAGSW
Gastronomia Rozrywkowa B-3, ul. Szpitalna 8 (en-
trance from ul. Grskiego), tel. (+48) 22 828 42 85, www.
gastronomiarozrywkowa.pl. A two-level bistro set on a quiet
street just away from the hustle and bustle in the centre of the
city. A small downstairs area connects to an intimate upstairs
with black and white prints on walls tastefully decorated with
striped wallpaper set above wooden picture rails. The menu is
concise featuring an international selection of well-prepared
and presented dishes including soups, salads, pastas and
meat dishes. Good as a lunch stop, where the daily specials are
well-worth the few euro prices, it is a particularly recommend-
able as a place for an intimate meal away from the crowds of
Chmielna with the food matched by a good selection of wines
and cocktails. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun
11:00 - 23:00. (24-52z). TA6GSW
Grand Kredens A- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel.
(+48) 22 629 80 08, www.kredens.com.pl. Few
pl aces i n Warsaw match thi s for a fi ne, dare we say
splendid dining experience. The decor is tremendously,
enjoyably eclectic, and the menu - with a terri fic variety
of fish (amongst much else) to savour - well up to the
challenge of its rivals. It is not by any means the cheapest
place in town, but we would be fairly certain that however
big the bill, you will leave feeling well satisfied. This has
been around Warsaw longer than we have and its a treat.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (33-100z).
PTA6UIEGSW
Gwiazdeczka Jazz Zone B-2, ul. Piwna 40, tel. (+48)
22 887 87 64, www.jazzzone.pl. A venue of legend, with a
show stealing skylight allowing diners the privilege of dining
under the stars. Can anything be more romantic? Certainly,
like the old town location for a start. Faultlessly presented,
the menu here is global in style and every much the lure as
the jazz thats promised. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (22-45z).
PTAEGSW
Josephs Wine & Food B-2, ul. Duchnicka 3,
tel. (+48) 22 320 29 88, www.josephwinebar.pl.
Celebrated television chef Joseph Seeletso sets the bar
high with his new combination winebar/wine shop that
is a li ttl e further afield for visi tors but worth the haul.
Dishes like red snapper and lamb with sweet potatoes
look like works of art and are perfectly paired with wines
suggested by the knowledgeable staff. The dark hardwood
floors of the loft-like interior suggest a modern take on
romance that is missing in Warsaws stuffier old-school
restaurants. And i f you like what was paired with your meal
you can stop at the wine shop and pick up the same label
for home. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (21-67z).
PTA6UGSW
Marconi C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 42/44 (Le
Meridien Bristol Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 551 18 32, www.
lemeridien.pl. Marconi is the kind of restaurant that is so
upper-crust, you say its name in a whisper. Seeing as it is
situated inside Le Meridien Bristol hotel, that makes sense.
The menu prices (expensive!) and dcor (large busts!) match
its location. Youll pay 115zl for lemon skin marinated rack
of lamb with grilled veggies in a garlic sauce, for example,
but youll be doing it in upscale style beneath twinkling
chandeliers and tinkling classical music. With large windows
offering park views, Marconi is a swank spot to spend your
best night out. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 06:30-10:30, 12:30-16:30, 19:00-23:00. (39-119z).
PTAUGW
Meza E- 3, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton Warsaw Ho-
tel), tel. (+48) 22 356 55 76, www.hiltonwarsaw.
pl. I f youre stayi ng i n the Hi l ton there real l y i sn t much
reason to go beyond the foyer. Thi s pl ace has i t al l, and
that i ncl udes a superb restaurant decorated wi th what
can onl y be descri bed as a psychedel i c magi c carpet.
I ts a l arge area, but the desi gners have been cl ever
enough to i ncorporate l ots of wood pi l l ars to break up
thi s space, whi l e a gl ass wal l al l ows di ners the oppor-
tuni ty to watch al l the comi ngs and goi ngs i n the l obby;
that means anythi ng from the arri val of dayti me TV
crews, to stubbl e clad stags pl odding around in dressing
gowns. Thats eye catchi ng enough, but the real star
of the show i s Sven Thomsen. Hes the head chef, and
hi s menu i s a fantasti c mi x of new Pol i sh and European
cooki ng. And don t mi ss the Sunday Brunch as weve
yet to fi nd better i n Warsaw. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00.
(58-159z). PTAUGS
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Pl enty of upgrades
and new addi ti ons
have come to War-
saw i n ant i c i pa-
ti on of Euro 2012
check out t hat
shi ny new stadi um
ac r os s t h e r i ver
but one of t he
most i nt er est i ng
i mprovements can
be found at Warsaw
Central Station. The
st at i on s r el i abl y
skuzzy communi st-
era bathrooms have
been stunni ngl y re-
pl aced wi th modern toi l ets and uri nal s that i nexpl i -
cabl y of fer wal l s wi th i mages l i ke wri nkl y puppi es or
the Whi te House for the men, and shel ves of books
or sun-soaked terraces for women. There i s al so
an i n-bathroom shop fi l l ed wi th dri nks and snacks
i n case youve worked up an appeti te i n the stal l.
Dutch company 2thel oo created the new restrooms
as part of the 48 milli on zl oty overhaul the stati on is
currentl y undergoi ng, but fortunatel y i t will onl y cost
you 2z for the pl easure to use them. There are large
2thel oo si gns di recti ng you to the three l ocati ons
one of whi ch i s open 24 hours and can be found i n
the South Passage (Pasa Poudni owy) on l evel -1.
A new kind of loo
Aleje Jerozolimskie 111, Warsaw
tel. 22 629 80 08
www.kredens.com.pl
Beautiful places, charming and
extraordinary, can exist only when
the people who create them leave
a part of themselves behind.
Grand Kredens
A 15 year tradition of Polish cuisine
50
RESTAURANTS
51
RESTAURANTS
Mokotowska 22 F-4, ul. Mokotowska 22, tel. (+48)
22 622 06 89, www.mokotowska-22.pl. One of the few
coffee shops that we actually believe wants visitors to sit
for ages with a book sipping coffee concoctions. How do
we know? The chairs are comfortable, the music is tame
and the whipped cream-coated drinks are so decadent that
moving is ill-advised. The menu rotates daily, though the
artistically-named drinks are constant (we liked the Matisse)
and give a nod to the cafs dual role as a gallery for aspir-
ing artists. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.
PAGSW
Na Zielnej B-3, ul. Zielna 37, tel. (+48) 22 338 63
33, www.nazielnej.pl. You may remember this as KOM,
an old favourite housed in Warsaws former telephone
exchange. Re-branded and given a slight makeover, this
has been immediately installed as one of our fave places in
the city. There are in fact now two venues in one: a bistro,
which is open for lunch, and a restaurant both now offering
the same menu of simple yet wonderfully cooked food. A
new feature offers diners a picture of a cow with the option
of choosing which hunk of meat they want. Not cheap but
terrifically good value, it is well worth a visit. Take a moment
to check out the remnants of the exchange on your way to
the lavatory. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (57-79z).
TAUXSW
Pikna Bistro F-4, ul. Pikna 20, tel. (+48) 22 627
41 51, www.jazzzone.pl. A bit of an old-timer, but one that
still looks young and fresh and which always seems to have
a steady flow of custom. That is probably down to the very
reliable mix of pastas, salads, grilled meat and fish dishes,
whose preparation and presentation match the surround-
ings. A recommended venue if you like your meal served to
the backdrop of live jazz. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 24:00. (29-59z). PTAUVEGSW
Podwale - Kompania Piwna B-1, ul. Podwale 25,
tel. (+48) 22 635 63 14, www.podwale25.pl. Enter
via a mock Bavarian courtyard to discover a huge hall filled
with the sound of beery antics and oompah music. The word
here is size, with Warsaws biggest portions coming within
a whisker of sending tables keeling. This is basically meat,
cabbage and potatoes served on huge wooden boards by
waitresses obviously less fragile than they look. Certainly the
best value in Old Town, with beer usually playing a big part
in the evening. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00.
(20-50z). PTAUEGSW
Poezja (Poetry) C- 4, ul. Ksica 6, tel. (+48) 22
622 67 62, www.poezja.waw.pl. A well-designed, urbane
eatery with bags of charm found just downhill from pl. Trzech
Krzyy. The menu is modern European and on the whole
comes highly recommended from both ourselves and all
we know who have eaten here. We love the atmosphere
- which has romance written all over it - and were we the
courting kind we would be wooing potential Mrs. Pockets
here. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (29-64z).
PTA6GSW
Prosta Historia H-3, ul. Francuska 24, tel. (+48) 22
870 13 25, www.prostahistoria.com. Prosta Historia is
almost superhero-like in its ability to hide its true identity.
The swank Saska Kepa location and bistro dcor - butcher
block tables, carnations in mason jars, French music tinkling
from the speakers - make you think a menu of salads and
soups await. But crack the menu and youll see a selection
of creative burgers youd expect to find at a greasy spoon.
The Bollywood burger arrives with curry and chutney, while
the After Party burger will nurse any hangover with its layers
of bacon and eggs. Even the more traditional Royal burger,
which has the more typical cheddar, ketchup, onion and
pickles, is a revelation. Throw in the fact that Prosta makes
their own buns and French fries and its safe to say Warsaw
has a new king of the beef patty QOpen 12:00 - 22:30,
Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (18-49z).
PTAGSW
Restaur acj a Concept C- 3, ul . Kr akowski e
Przedmiecie 16/18, tel. (+48) 22 492 74 09, www.
likusconceptstore.pl. Its hard to do justice to Concept res-
taurant, one of the most impressive dining experiences to be
found in Warsaw. Found inside a former pre-war bathhouse
this place is accessed down a gloomy looking courtyard,
flanked on each side by kebab stands and student dives.
Dont turn back. Instead duck through the entrance to find
yourself in a whole different world. Decorated with glazed
floor tiles, shimmery fabrics and a skylight this place looks
every inch a masterpiece. Keeping up with the surrounds is
the food, with a newly launched menu that includes a near
perfect steak. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (85-320z).
PTAEXSW
Restaur acj a Kul tur a B- 2, ul . Kr akowski e
restauracjakultura.pl. On the ground floor of the Kino
Kultura, and therefore commanding one of the greatest
locations on all Krakowskie, the Kultura makes good use of
the space by serving food that lives up to its surroundings.
Smart waitresses wearing freshly starched aprons will bring
urek to your table, before presenting you with a bill that
should, given quality, be far higher. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(29-49z). PTAGSW
Restauracja Wilanw ul. S. K. Potockiego 27
(Wilanw), tel. (+48) 22 842 18 52, www.restaurac-
jawilanow.com. An extraordinary excursion back to the days
of a planned Polish economy, this much talked about classy
restaurant serves a range of international and Polish food in
a blast to the past atmosphere. Despite what they say about
the place theres no ignoring the service. Breathtakingly
snobby, expect to be treated like something the cat dragged
in if youre not dressed for the opera. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(32-58z). PTAGS
Restaurant @Ferdys A-3, ul. Grzybowska 24 (Radis-
son BLU Centrum Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 321 88 22, www.
ferdys.pl. A class act found on the ground floor of the Radis-
son. Veneered woods, potted plants and huge shutters lend
an atmosphere not dissimilar to the first class deck of a cross
Atlantic liner, while the steaks are reputed to be some of the
best in the city. Not a cheap indulgence, but a worthwhile
one. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (34-133z). PTAUGS
Restro A-4, ul. Paska 57, tel. (+48) 22 620 22 66,
www.restro.pl. As you may have noticed some central
Warsaw streets have a habit of ending abruptly before re-
appearing again sometimes hundreds of metres away on
the other side of a busy road. Bear this in mind when you
hunt down Restro, a cafe restaurant that is a favoured lunch
spot of ours, which can be found to the south-east of the
UN roundabout (Rondo ONZ). The changing menu features
offers a choice of excellently priced set menus and dishes
with a distinct Mediterranean feel. The Black tagiolini with
smoked salmon in a lime-cream sauce is a steal at around
6 euros although we often have a dilemma between that
and one of the salads, the beef and spinach being another
winner. Recommended but mind the opening hours. Q Open
11:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun open by prior arrangement for larger
groups only. (18-39z). PTAUVGS
Not everyone has the pleasure of waking to a five star
breakfast, so its good news that there are early bird eating
options that go beyond foraging in bins. First off, take a look
at urawia - Caf 6/12 is a legend, and their breakfasts
cover all bases from bagels to pancakes to something that
isnt too dissimilar to a British breakfast. Down the road and
You & Me also attempt Brit brekkie as well as numerous
continental options. Not bad, unlike your pl. Trzech Kryy
options. Theres always a crowd in Szpilka but go beyond
a croissant and youll be wishing you hadnt got out of bed.
Subway have a bunch of locations around the city and you
could do a lot worse for something on the run. Speaking
of fast food, the ubiquitous McBreakfast is on sale from
very early at the easiest location to get to, that being the
one in the underground part of Warszawa Centralna railway
station. Irish breakfast is available from in Bradleys though
for a true power breakfast head to 99.
99 Restaurant & Bar A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 23,
tel. (+48) 22 620 19 99, www.restaurant99.com.
Four types of breakfast on offer served from Monday to
Friday - from simple French (pancakes, croissants and
cakes, 17z) to the full works: scrambled eggs with bacon,
beans, sausages and bread (24z). Q Breakfast served
Mon - Fri, 08:00 - 11:00. PTAUXSW
Amadera A-4, ul. Chmielna 13a, tel. (+48) 22 505
91 86, www.amadera.pl. An all-you-can eat buffet for
45z served 7 days a week. Q Breakfast served 07:00-
10:00, Sat, Sun 08:00-11:00. PTA6UXW
Caf 6/12 C-4, ul. urawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22
622 53 33, www.612.pl. Around 40 breakfast options,
including pancakes, bagels, sandwiches and ciabattas
as well as a not bad attempt at English breakfast which
is priced at 29z (eggs, home-made sausages, cocktail
tomatoes, bread). Found close to the centre, the outdoor
terrace on Warsaws main media agency street, is a great
place to sit in warmer months. Q Breakfast served 08:00
- 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PTA6GSW
Hard Rock Cafe B-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy),
tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl.
Special breakfast menu featuring omelettes, pancakes,
eggs, juices, coffee etc. Prices starts from 9z. Q
Breakfast served 09:00 - 12:00. PTAUGSW
Jimmy Bradleys E-3, ul. Sienna 39, tel. (+48) 22
654 66 56, www.jimmybradleys.pl. Irish breakfast
(sausages, bacon, eggs, tomato, mushrooms and baked
beans) in two sizes (medium 25z, and small 18z) or
scrambled eggs with bacon and mushrooms priced at
12z. Thankfully available all day. Between 10:00 and
12:00 you can get the Irish or Polish breakfast, scrambled
eggs or an omlette for only 10z. Q PA6UGSW
McDonalds A-4, Al. Jerozolimskie/ Jana Pawa II,
pawilon 64, WPP (Warszawa Centralna), tel. (+48) 694
49 60 18, www.mcdonalds.pl. When only the Egg McMuf-
fin will do or its really early in the morning. Find it in the tunnels
under Warsaw Central Train Station. Q Breakfast served
05:30 - 10:30, Sat, Sun 05:30 - 11:00. PAGSW
You & Me C-4, ul. urawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22 379 03
79, www.youandmebar.pl. A range of breakfast priced at
21.00z featuring traditional French and English selections
or lighter fare like muesli and yoghurt. Q Breakfast served
08:30 - 11:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. PTAXSW
Breakfast
52
RESTAURANTS
53
RESTAURANTS
Rewers C-2, ul. Dobra 56/66 (Warsaw University
Library), tel. (+48) 507 61 86 18, www.restauracjar-
ewers.pl. A modern canteen style restaurant found in the
Warsaw University Library building close to the river and
Copernicus Science Centre, the opening of which made this
an area of town worth discovering even more. The food is
good, honest, well-priced Polish grub on account of the largely
student customer base and this serves as a perfect place to
feed yourself and the family if youre visiting the aforemen-
tioned Copernicus Centre or the wonderful rooftop garden of
the library. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 22:00.
(12-23z). PTAGSW
Skwer - filia Centrum Artystycznego Fabryka
Trzciny B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 60a,
tel. (+48) 508 36 58 49, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl.
I f location is everything then Skwer is the place to be.
Commanding a prime spot on Krakowskie Przedmiescie
a stones throw from the presidential place it looks like an
architects show-home yet manages to create a decent
atmosphere thanks to the students who flock here for
coffee after lectures. By night the crowd gets trendier as
local arty-types turn up to be seen eating the well-priced
food through the glass walls. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (18-
45z). PTAUEGSW
Sofa Restaurant&Bar B-4, ul. Emilii Plater 28 (en-
trance from ul. Nowogrodzka 56), tel. (+48) 22 626 14
15, www.sofa.waw.pl. Bigger than it looks, we visited on
a wet Monday and were astonished how many people had
also made the trip: it was rocking. Really not bad at all and
giving off smooth, in-crowd-without-overdoing-it - vibes it is
the kind of place everyone is welcome in and - more impor-
tantly - everyone will feel comfortable in, from suited types
staying over at the Marriott to backpackers in dreadlocks.
The roast duck with cranberries in an orange sauce was an
unexpected treat. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00,
Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (25-65z). PTAUGSW
Stacja Rynek B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 15, tel.
(+48) 22 635 76 82, www.stacjarynek.pl. What was a
charismatic but ultimately shabby bar has risen as a respect-
able restaurant occupying a corner of old town square. Set to
vaulted ceilings and chandeliers this dining room looks all the
more fabulous thanks to a muted design that offsets blood
red seats to a largely grey interior. The menu, considering
the squares reputation for rip-off, is fine and its not a bad
winery either, so worth a gander even outside dinner hour.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (26-70z). PTAXSW
St. Traffo C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 36, tel. (+48) 22 826
67 69, www.sttraffo.pl. People watching at its best, with
only hearty helpings of pasta or the goulash soup served in
a loaf of bread to distract you. St. Traffo offers a menu filled
with Italian and Polish options, not all of which are as heavy
as the pork knuckle baked in beer. Lighter fare includes a
tasty chevre salad sprinkled with honey walnuts. A popular
post-work place for imbibing or breakfast spot for strong
coffee. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (19-70z). TA6GSW
Tamka 43 C-3, ul. Tamka 43, tel. (+48) 22 441 62
34, www.tamka43.pl. Location, location, location. You
could probably open a dive serving tripe soup and nothing
else and be successful here (here being opposite the Cho-
pin Museum), but Tamka 43 would be brilliant anywhere.
Modern and bright without overdoing it, by day its coffee
and cakes, mums and kids, (there is a lunch option too)
by night its serious drinks, light meals and well dressed
smoothies. We love it to bits. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (35-
89z). PTA6UGS
The Olive C-4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw Hotel),
tel. (+48) 22 450 67 06, www.sheraton.com. A mix
of faultless Polish and Mediterranean cuisine served in a
curvy glass room attached to the Sheraton. The Sunday
Brunch - featuring unlimited booze and food - is an expat
hi ghli ght. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00; Sat
07:00 - 10:30, Sun 07:00-10:30, 12:30 - 16:30. (49-125z).
PTAUGSW
Trylogia E-4, Pl. Zawiszy 1 (Radisson Blu Sobieski
Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 579 10 08, www.radissonblu.com/
sobieski-warsaw. Found in the Radisson Blu Sobieski Hotel,
this isnt your typical hotel dining spot. With its swirly carpets
and staid design the decor doesnt necessarily tick the styl-
ish box, so its a good job thats theres some serious skill
at work in the background thanks to chef Edward Suchenek.
The menu changes with the season, and our advice is to
let the chef surprise you. QOpen 09:00 - 22:30. (40-80z).
PTAUGSW
Villa Foksal C-3, ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. (+48) 22 827
87 16, www.restauracjavillafoksal.pl. Vill a Foksal
has long had a name for good food and is a smart, mod-
ernish eatery found on one of Warsaws sexiest streets.
Presentation is faultless, the cooking excellent and the
menu an inventive interpretation of standard European
finds. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00.
(32-69z). PAGSW
Vinoteka La Bodega C- 4, ul. Nowy wiat 6/12,
tel. (+48) 22 745 46 10, www.vinoteka.pl. You may
remember the Vinoteka crowd from their old place across
the road or from one of their other premises around Po-
land. I f you do youll recognise this as probably the most
impressive space theyve yet occupied. Not only does it
look great, but theyve buil t on their previous success
with a fantastic collection of wine and a very impressive
menu. And while the food is great, its the wine that has
always bought us back. Find wines from all over the world
in a part of what was once Polands communist party HQ.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (21-70z).
PAGSW
You & Me C-4, ul. urawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22 379
03 79, www.youandmebar.pl. The narrow as hell yet
shaded and glorious terrace is the top draw here in the
warmer months while they also make a hal f-decent stab
at an English breakfast. The lunchtime menu is top value,
although we question their claim to serve the cheapest
beer in Poland (have they been to Lublin). At night You &
Me becomes a rather trendy bar that fills up with no tie,
coloured-shirted types from the media companies whose
offices line this street. Come prepared to do and talk busi-
ness and you will love the place. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00, Fri
08:30 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (39-
65z). PTAXSW
Italian
Bellini B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 21, tel. (+48) 22
831 02 02, www.restauracjabellini.pl. As weve learnt
to expect from Magda Gessler the interiors are genius, all
arching brickwork and chintz style touches, and the menu
doesnt slack either. The pizza, including one named after
the grand dame of Warsaw cuisine, is excellent, but itd be a
waste not to go further afield and try their Tuscan specials.
Surprisingly, considering both location and reputation, this
venue keeps the prices sensible, with dishes well within reach
of even shallow pockets. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (22-60z).
PTAGS
In a city that does not want for tragic, heroic stories,
that of Janusz Korczak and the orphanage of which he
became director in 1912 is one of those that warrants
telling time and again. Warsaw-born Korczak - whose real
name was Henryk Goldszmit - was a pioneering Polish-
Jewish childrens author, paediatrician and pedagogue
of some renown, whose approach to raising orphans
(he believed in offering children as much freedom and
autonomy to express themselves as possible) was at
odds with the prevailing attitude towards children in
general at the time. The orphanage (which still stands
today, at ul. Krochmalna 92 (A-3), and which remains a
childrens home) was specifically designed (by Korczak
himsel f) to offer the children who would live there as
comfortable an existence as possible. Korczak ran the
orphanage as a model of democracy, the orphans having
their own parliament and even their own newspaper, and
were consulted on all major decisions.
Having served as a military doctor in World War I, Korczak
volunteered for the Polish army again at the outbreak of
World War II, but was rejected due to his age. When the
occupying Nazis created the Warsaw Ghetto in 1940,
he was forced to move his orphanage to a much smaller
building at ul. Chlodna 33, and later still to ul. Sienna
16. A poignant sculpture of Korczak leading his children
(one small child clings on his back) stands close by, at
ul. Jaktorowska 6 (D-3).
At this stage, it is likely that anyone with the most rudi-
mentary knowledge of Polish history can probably guess
the rest. On August 5, 1942, the Nazis came to round-up
the 192 orphans in Korczaks care at the time, to take
them to Treblinka. For reasons that remain unknown,
Korczak himself was offered an amnesty by the Nazis,
and passage to the Polish side of the Ghetto walls. He
refused, insisting that he go with the children. Eyewitness
Joshua Perle described the scene:
A miracle occurred. Two hundred children did not cry.
Two hundred pure souls, condemned to death, did not
weep. Not one of them ran away. None tried to hide.
Like stricken swallows they clung to their teacher and
mentor, to their father and brother, Janusz Korczak, so
that he might protect and preserve them. On all sides
the children were surrounded by Germans, Ukrai-
nians, and this time also Jewish policemen. They
whipped and fired shots at them. The very stones of
the street wept at the sight of the procession.
Though rumours ran through the Ghetto for months
afterwards that the children had been saved on route to
Treblinka, there is no evidence of this, and not one child
appears to have survived the war. Korczak himself died
in Treblinka in 1942.
Besides the monument on ul. Jaktorowska, there is a
bust of Korczak in front of his former orphanage at ul.
Krochmalna 92, and a cenotaph in Powzki Cemetery.
A further monument - of Korczak sheltering children,
sculpted by Boris Saktsier - can be found at the Yad
Vashem Holocaust History Museum in Jerusalem.
Composer Adam Silverman wrote an opera based on
the Korczak story, called simply Korczaks Orphans,
which premiered in New York in 2003. Korczaks own
most famous work is probably King Matt the First (Krl
Maciu Pierwszy), a childrens adventure story about
a young king that is a thinly-veiled representation of
historical events in Poland. You can usually find copies
in English in larger branches of Empik
The Korczak Orphanage
54
RESTAURANTS
55
RESTAURANTS
through the massive menu. It may look like a small trattoria,
but the wine list suggests seasoned pros who will ensure a
charming date. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00,
Sun 14:00 - 21:00. (25-63z). PTAGSW
Trattoria Rucola B-2, ul. Miodowa 1, tel. (+48) 888
57 54 57, www.trattoriarucola.pl. Trattoria Rucola has
taught us a simple truth: wed surely eat more salads i f
they all came with smoky bacon. The smell of garlic waft-
ing onto Krakowskie Przedmiescie will undoubtedly lure
you in, the strange leafy dcor will encourage you to grab
a table and the hefty menu of Italian staples will mean a
certain belt-loosening. Thirty pizzas dominate the menu,
but we were i ntri gued by the rare si ghti ng of doughy
calzones. The aforementioned salads are soaked in a
lush balsamic dressing that no one should be ashamed
to lick from their fingers (we did). QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(20-55z). PTAVGSW
Venezia Ristorante F-4, ul. Marszakowska 10/16,
tel. (+48) 22 622 15 37, www.venezia.com.pl. The
name Magda Gessler holds a lot of weight in Poland, and the
celebrity chef (of Polish Hells Kitchen fame) has a mix of hits
and misses here. The quattro formaggi pizza has a delicious
thin and crunchy crust and layers of gooey cheese like brie.
But the small salad consisted of iceberg lettuce and one
quartered tomato drizzled in olive oil - we expect a little more
with Gesslers name on the menu. The enormous size of the
restaurant, which also has a large covered patio, means its
easy to walk in and get a table. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. (20-55z). PTAUGSW
Venti Tre G-5, ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Regency
Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 558 10 94, www.warsaw.regency.
hyatt.com. At the risk of sounding like a broken record well
say once more; some of Warsaws finest meals are to be had
in hotel restaurants, and the Hyatts flagship eatery proves
no different. An open plan kitchen and giant glass windows
allow for a more informal atmosphere than in other five
stars, while the wood-fired oven knocks out pizzas that rise
well above the high street standard. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00.
(48-115z). PTAUGSW
Zielona Oliwka A-3, ul. Twarda 42, tel. (+48) 880
77 78 98, www.greenolive.pl. Pizza, pasta and great
cannelloni (the ricotta and spinach are the tastiest we have
tried so far). A really nice little place - all neat and tidy, with
daily specials chalked up on a blackboard - of the type often
overlooked for not being flashy enough, we recommend it
(keep an eye out for the homemade dumplings too). Just
try and bag seats by the window to get the best out of it.
QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (20-40z).
PTAVGSW
Ciao! pizza & pasta C-3, ul. Chmielna 11, tel. (+48)
22 827 50 16, www.ciaopizzapasta.pl. If you can get past
the aggressive pink and green colour scheme youll find Ciao
as a good intermediate step between fast food and serious
sit-down dining. The menu of pizzas, pastas and salads
rarely climbs above 26z and has all the expected staples
like carbonara and four-cheese pizza. The real discovery is
that house wines are basically the same price as a bottle of
water, so you can quickly class up your meal without blow-
ing out your tab. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
(18-26z). PAGSW
Delizia B- 4, ul. Hoa 58/60 (entrance from ul.
Poznaska), tel. (+48) 22 622 66 65, www.delizia.com.
pl. Warsaws continued alliance with Italian food shows no
sign of slowing, and the latest proof comes with Delizia, an
Italian-owned venue thats comfortably there with the best.
As youd expect when cooked by natives, the food is excel-
lent, with a classically Italian menu that captures the best
of a nation. The experience begins with a warm welcome,
and continues as staff emerge with beautifully presented
authentic dishes. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (28-
59z). PTAGSW
Gar B-3, ul. Jasna 10, tel. (+48) 22 828 26 05, www.
gar.com.pl. Magda Gessler (the host of the Polish version of
Hells Kitchen) delivers everything youd expect from an Italian
restaurant with a celebrity chefs name: attentive service,
perfectly proportioned pastas and over-the-top dcor that
features classic photos of Italian film stars. Gars crispy thin-
crust pizzas and creamy tortellinis are impressively priced
for the quality. And dont let Sophia Lorens smouldering
gaze distract you from ordering the bistecca alla Florentina,
a bone-in steak that appears to be the hottest item in the
restaurant (apologies to Sophia). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. (22-80z). PTAUGSW
La Tomatina F-3, ul. Krucza 47, tel. (+48) 22 625 10
47, www.latomatina.pl. La Tomatinas enormous menu
of Italian dishes can best be described as Bacchanalian;
how else do you describe an orgy of nearly 40 pizzas and
24 pasta choices? The pasta is all freshly made in-house,
which automatically gives every noodle dish a tasty boost. We
doubt theres an item in the kitchen that La Tomatina hasnt
put on their pizzas, and we especially liked the spicy slap of
the diavola, which packs chilli oil, jalapenos, peppers and
spicy salami onto one fiery pie. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (21-139z). PTA6VEGSW
Roma G-5, ul. Belwederska 17 / ul. Grottgera 2, tel.
(+48) 22 841 01 33, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Atten-
tion to detail is apparent at Roma, and every aspect of this
secretive restaurant hints at the neighbourhood locales
youd find in the side alleys of Italy. The interior is intimate,
with silverware resting on cinnamon sticks and piles of
crispy breadsticks on every table. The menu itself is ency-
clopaedic - - were talking three pages of pastas - - enabling
Roma to build a loyal fan base across the years. Were fans
of the Neapolitan soup, especially on rainy days, and if you
like strings of mozzarella dangling from your lips were fairly
certain you will too. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00,
Sun 14:00 - 21:00. (25-63z). PTAUGSW
Roma Bukieteria C-4, ul. Mokotowska 49, tel. (+48)
22 621 03 11, www.restauracjaroma.pl. Pasta might be
the kind of thing youre used to gorging on, but not here. Roma
Bukieteria is all romantic atmosphere - - think candles, ter-
racotta and heavy wood tables - - so bring your best manners
and your latest date. The only place with a larger selection of
pasta has to be Rome itself, so take your time when sorting
Bar Salad Story B-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy),
tel. (+48) 22 222 03 77, www.saladstory.com. Fast
food gets the health treatment in Salad Story, a chain of
outlets serving salads, sandwiches and soups. Also at
(C-4) ul. Krucza 41/43, (C-4) ul. Nowy wiat 18/20 and
(F-4) ul. Polna 46. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 -
21:00. (10-26z). PAUGS
Burger King A-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 713 86 15 88, www.burgerking.com.pl. Also
at Al. Jana Pawa II 82 (D-1, Arkadia). QOpen 09:00 -
22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. (5-20z). PAUGSW
KFC C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19, tel. (+48) 713
86 16 90, www.kfc.pl. Also at (B-4) ul. Widok 26,
(A-4, Zote Tarasy) ul. Zota 59, (F-4) ul. Pikna 28/34
and (A-2) Al. Solidarnoci 68 A. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. (12-18z). PTAUGSW
McDonalds B-3, ul. Marszakowska 126-134, tel.
(+48) 694 49 60 15, www.mcdonalds.pl. Various
locations including ul. Zota 59 (A-4, Zote Tarasy), Al.
Jerozolimskie/ Jana Pawa II, pawilon 64, WPP (Warszawa
Centralna; A-4) and Al. Solidarnoci 117 (A-2). Breakfast
served in selected branches till 10:30 during the week
and 11:00 at weekends. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
07:00 - 03:00. (13-17z). PTAUGSW
MG Eat Magda Gessler C-3, ul. Chmielna 32,
tel. (+48) 22 827 47 13, www.mgeat.pl. Polish
celebrity chef Magda Gessler brings her upscale dishes
to the masses with this fast food establishment that
pushes salads constructed with exacting precision that
would make Gessler proud but can take ages if youre in
a rush. The shops half-sandwiches are criminally small
though evilly delicious. And the brightly-colored modern
restaurant also boasts heaps of desserts, most interest-
ingly frozen yogurt - something weve seen nowhere else
in ice cream-loving Poland. Also at ul. Krlewska 2 (C-3,
entrance from ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie). QOpen
10:00 - 22:00. (5-23z). PTA6UGSW
Pizza Hut B- 4, ul. Widok 26 (entrance from ul.
Chmielna), tel. (+48) 71 386 15 23, www.pizzahut.
pl. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. (15-
50z). PTA6UGSW
Room Service tel. (+48) 22 651 90 03, www.
roomservice.pl.
Royal Menu tel. (+48) 22 244 21 21, www.royal-
menu.pl. A food, wine and flower delivery service with
English-speaking operators and a choice of over 40
restaurant menus to choose from (think Polish food from
Polka to sushi from Rice Field). Place an order over the
phone or online and theyll have the food delivered piping
hot to your door in special containers in no time at all.
Subway C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 24, tel. (+48) 22 828
40 25, www.swiezo.pl. Sandwiches in Poland have
traditionally been sub-standard affairs (green tomatoes,
stray gherkins, you know the drill), but Subway redress
the balance serving a cracking range of sarnies that
vary from pocket size to the length of your arm. Combos
range from teriyaki chicken to meatball, all made using
fresh ingredients and served to a choice of bread. Repeat
customers should ask for a loyalty card. Also at (B-4) Al.
Jerozolimskie 31, (A-4, Zote Tarasy) ul. Zota 59, (F-4) ul.
Polna 54, (A-3) Al. Jana Pawa II 18, (B-2) ul. witojaska
15/17 and ul. Mickiewicza 27/ Pl. Wilsona (oliborz).
QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 -
02:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (7-18z). PAUGSW
Fast Food & Delivery
The energy of the East
for the rest of the day
Al. Jerozolimskie 109, Warsaw, tel. +48 22 625 66 03
www.sushito.pl
Japanese
We could quite easily have a guide with only sushi restau-
rants such has been the explosion of them in recent years.
This is a selection of the places we feel you ought to know
about but you are likely to find somewhere serving sushi in
every major mall these days.
77 Sushi A-4, ul. elazna 41, tel. (+48) 22 890 18 11,
www.sushi77.com. The number 77 might well refer to the
number of sushi stops in town - in fact, it says a lot about the
city that its now easier to find sushi than it is a cabbage. Youre
guaranteed the real deal in Sushi 77, where imaginative sets - try
the California rolls, or even the hot sushi - come chopped and
sliced inside an attractive interior. Some outlets offer local de-
livery. Also at (F-4), ul. Polna 48A, Open 12:00-22:30, Al. KEN 49
(Ursynw), Open 12:00-22:30 and ul. Sawoja-Skadkowskiego
4 (Ursus, CH Skorosze), Open 11:00-22:00, Sun 11:00-21:00.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (29-49z). PTAGSW
u|. Krucza 47, warszawa | www.|atomat|na.p|
Peservat|ons: 48 (22) 626 10 47, 48 6u1 388 18u
Open|ng hours:
Lvery day 11.00 - 23.00, |r|-Sat: 11.00 - 24.00
/D7RPDWLQDLVWKHHVVHQFHRI,WDOLDQIODYRU
56
RESTAURANTS
Besuto C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 28 (pav. 2), tel. (+48)
22 828 00 20, www.besuto.pl. Hi dden among the
prefab cabins and ramshackle pavilions on Nowy wiat
22 is Besuto, a surprising addition to the lines of scabby
student bars and shops selling spanners. From the outside
it looks pretty unimpressive, cold green and black colour
combos doing little to draw the passer-by. The good news
is the sushi, very decent hot and cold cuts prepared in front
of your eyes and despatched on boats that circle the bar.
Definitely worth a visit, and with low prices attached to the
results. Note that Besuto plans to move to Nowy wiat 27
sometime in February, and opening hours may change.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (30-53z).
PA6VGSW
Izumi Sushi F-4, ul. Mokotowska 17 (entrance from Pl.
Zbawiciela), tel. (+48) 22 825 79 50, www.izumisushi.
eu. Marking the final part of Pl. Zbawicielas regeneration is
this work of art, where decorations are limited to sleek metals
and black woods and flavours are fresh and full. Dont just
limit yourself to the raw fish standards; also on the menu
find substantials like duck with mango salsa. Also on ul. Biay
Kamie 4 (E-5), Open 12:00-23:00. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(39-69z). PTAUGS
Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery B-2, ul. Senatorska
17/19, tel. (+48) 22 892 09 01, www.kiku.pl. Our advice
when coming to this typically Japan-in-a-packet decorated
place is simple: forget the sushi and just ask for the noodle
menu. Never before in this city have we eaten such fresh,
spicy and downright tasty noodles as we have at Kiku. At
around 25z a bowl, a portion of noodles here - and the
seafood ones are best - represents terrific value. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (25-95z). PTAU
VGSW
OTO!SUSHI F-3, ul. Nowy wiat 46, tel. (+48) 22
828 00 88, www.oto-sushi.pl. One of our favorite sushi
spots in Warsaw. Sure, the location helps - who can argue
with sitting outside on swanky Nowy wiat? - but the helpful
staff, great tea options and fair prices put it squarely on
top. A vegetarian sushi set for two with 22 pieces ranging
from kappa maki to inari was tops, and the tempura is
crispy rather the soggy we often encounter. Ducking in for
a lunch special will get you heaps of fresh sushi along with
miso soup, a salad and green tea for a reasonable price.
The small storefront means you may have to fight for a
seat, though. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
(20-80z). PTAVGSW
Sushi Teatr B-3, Pl. Pisudskiego 9, tel. (+48) 22
826 47 87, www.chabrowski.eu/of f y/sushiteatr/
index.htm. Shock white colour schemes, soft lighting and
a designer atmosphere inside Warsaws most exclusive
sushi address. In return for a small fortune expect beautifully
presented dishes prepared by a team of master chefs. This is
essential dining. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:30.
(25-100z). PAGS
NEW
Sushi To E-3, Aleje Jerozolimskie 109, tel. (+48) 22
625 66 03, www.sushito.pl. Yes, sushi is right there in
the name, and youll find plenty of creative sets to choose
from and some of the best nigiri weve had, but our favourite
parts of the Sushi To menu dont come in roll form. The salad
with fresh pineapple and fried shrimp is a standout, and the
same can be said for the shrimp tempura. But if sushi is
what youre after hit up the lunch special, where 34zl lands
you a 10-piece set along with tea and miso soup. QOpen
11:00 - 22:00. (19-44z). PAVGSW
TOMO
ul. Krucza 16/22, 00-562 Warszawa
tel. (22) 434-23-44
tel. 508-12-22-12
www.tomo.pl
During June 2011 Polands Gazeta Wyborcza newspa-
per invited 21 journalism students from City University
London to visit the countrys largest cities to assess
whether they are ready to host the upcoming Euro 2012
football tournament. Dubbed Misja 21 (Mission 21), the
project also elicited input from local residents, including
their votes on the top five likes and dislikes in their own
cities. Heres what the locals think.
Top 5 likes:
1. Roof Gardens on the Warsaw University Library
building, ul. Dobra 56/66 (C-2) and Copernicus Science
Centre, ul. Wybrzee Kociuszkowskie 20 (G-2).
An understandable tie! The Warsaw University Library
rooftop gardens offer an entire hectare of bridges,
streams, pathways, sculptures and plant life while the
brand new Copernicus Science Centre is a hands-on
chance to experience learning in a 93 million structure
devoted to science found close by.
2. Lakienki Park, ul. Agrykoli 1 (G-4)
3. Royal Route and Old Town (B-1/2)
4. Old Praga with Zabkowska street (H-1)
Warsaws hip if slightly rundown district across the Vis-
tula is being revitalized by artists and hipsters beginning
with Zabkowska street, where youll find some of the best
(and strangest) pubs and clubs.
5. Saska Kepa and Skaryszewski Park (H-2)
The district of Saska Kepa can best be described as the
exact opposite of Praga: rich, upperclass and packed with
the citys intelligentsia. The districts Skaryszewski Park
features 55 hectares of waterfalls, lakes and flowerbeds
to wander through.
Top 5 dislikes:
1. Central Train station and tunnels under it (A/B-4)
Warszawa Centralna is a bit of a mess as it goes through
upgrades in anticipation of Euro 2012, be lets be honest:
it used to be a lot worse.
2. Building area of Swiatynia Opatrznosci Bozej (ul.
Klimczaka, Wilanow)
Considered one of the most important Catholic struc-
tures in Poland, the National Temple of Divine Providence
(as its known in English) is currently a skeletal pile of
concrete under endless construction in Wilanow an
understandable impetus for dislike.
3. Shopping malls and chain restaurants
Generic chains and imposing malls seem to be consis-
tently popular and universally despised.
4. Plac Defilad, on the ul. Marszalkowska side (B-4)
This square by the Palace of Culture used to be the site
of propaganda parades during communism, while today
it just looks like a sad slab of ignored concrete.
5. National Stadium and surrounding area, Al. Ksicia
Poniatowskiego 1 (H-2)
Sure, the constructi on was a mess (and ran over
deadline) but the stadium is finally complete. The area
around it? Thats still a work in progress, which clearly
rubs Warsaw residents the wrong way.
What the locals like
58
RESTAURANTS
59
RESTAURANTS
Sushi Zushi C-4, ul. urawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22 420
33 73, www.sushizushi.pl. Even in a city now exasperated
with sushi this place is worth a mention. In fact, say it quietly,
this was probably the sushi king of 09. Resembling an itsy
bamboo cave the blond coloured Zushi is much more than
just a stop off for the wage slaves squished into the offices
above, rather a very real contender as the best Jap in town.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 -
22:00. (36-79z). PTAVGSW
Tomo Sushi C-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 22 434
23 44, www.tomo.pl. Many claim you wont find better sushi
in Warsaw, and who are we to argue with the masses. Tomos
reputation is well earned, and as such dont be surprised to
be knocking elbows with sushi snobs showing off deft chop-
stick moves. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (45-95z). PTA6UGSW
Zen Jazz Zone B-3, ul. Jasna 24, tel. (+48) 22 447
25 00, www.jazzone.pl. A modern menu featuring (yes...)
sushi, wok dishes and other Asian fused style offerings
whose number includes a smashing oriental style duck.
All this inside an interior thats always busy, but as the title
alludes, is thoughtfully chilled in atmosphere. White brick
walls and soothing chocolate colours lend a distinctively
cosmopolitan vibe thats not lost on an equally cosmopolitan
crowd. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun.
(24-67z). PTAGSW
Lebanese
Fenicja B-3, ul. witokrzyska 32, tel. (+48) 510 75
97 95, /www.fenicja.com. Poland is awash in kebabs -
you can get one on practically every block - and of course
Fenicja has a service window for those who want to eat and
run. But your best bet is to go for a deeper pull from their
menu, especially when around 20zl will get you plate with
falafel, hummus, pita and stuffed grape leaves. The freshly-
made mango juice is the perfect refreshment at an outdoor
table, while dessert options include a sheesha water pipe
with apple tobacco or a slice of gooey, honey-covered bak-
lava. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (16-28z)
PTAUVXSW
Fresh&chilli F-4, Al. Niepodlegoci 213, tel. (+48) 22
825 37 51, www.freshchili.com.pl. Fresh & Chilli had us
at waitress call button. Each table in this large, airy Leba-
nese restaurant has its own push-button waitress trigger,
a coup in a country where you often have to file a missing
persons report to find your server. Fortunately, the food
is also worthy of attention ( just ignore the menus cheesy
declarations of sophisticated! and mouth-watering!
next to entre descriptions). Vegetarians will be thrilled to
find 20+ options like stuffed grape leaves and manakeesh,
while carnivores can dig into veal and mutton kebabs or
every variety of shoarma you can imagine. And the attached
Lebanese market is impressively stocked with all the fixings
you need to try and attempt these dishes yourself. QOpen
11:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
(23-40z). PTAUXSW
Le Cedre G-1, Al. Solidarnoci 61, tel. (+48) 22 670
11 66, www.lecedre.pl. In the Praga part of town, La Cedre
have been offering the exotic for over a decade - a time when
anything not featuring turnips was seen as truly revolutionary.
This place has long had a reputation for excellence, and the
good news is that still holds true. In fact, a recent reconnais-
sance proves it better than ever, especially when you arrive
group handed; push the tables together, cover them with
bottles and starters, and let battle begin. A fragrant Arabian
Nights prevails, with lots of satin cushions and mysterious
curtains scattered at intervals; as for the food, the grilled
meat is brilliant, but for us its tabbouleh salad all the way. A
Warsaw classic, no doubt. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (32-59z).
PTAVGSW
Samira F- 4, Al. Niepodlegooci 213, tel. (+48) 22
825 09 61, www.samira.pl. Bargain hunters rejoice. Half
grocery store, half restaurant, Samira is a cheapie classic set
down a ropey looking alleyway. Explorers will find their efforts
immediately rewarded by superb Lebanese dishes served at
moderate prices. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
(15-60z). PTAUGS
Mediterranean
La Cantina C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 64, tel. (+48) 22 331
67 98, www.lacantina.pl. La Cantina looks good and
doesnt taste so bad either, with above par pizzas sliding
from a traditional Italian style wood-fired oven. The Marengo,
something lil Napoleon ate before steaming into the Aus-
trians at the battle of the same name, has been taken off
the menu, so go off road instead and try the Tavuk sis, a
tasty skewered chicken dish. Opinion on LC appears divided,
but we can vouch for a decent feed whenever weve been.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (27-95z). PTAUEXSW
NEW
Paros B-3, ul. Jasna 14/16A, tel. (+48) 22 828 10 67,
www.paros-restauracja.pl. Paros is the first and last place
in Warsaw where a waiter pulled out our chair and helped
us with our coat - - colour us charmed by the gallantry. That
attention carried over to the meal, with Greek staples like
hefty salads and bite-sized spanakopitas as well as hybrid
Greek burgers for the carnivores, all imparting the taste of
the Mediterranean. The restaurant itself is so large it can be
half filled with customers and still seem spacious, even with
a packed white wraparound bar in the middle of the room.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. (30-86z).
PTAUEXSW
Mongolian
Cesarski Paac (Tsinghis Chan) B-2, ul. Senator-
ska 27, tel. (+48) 22 827 97 07, www.cesarski-palac.
com.pl. A basement grill where diners line up at food sta-
tions, pile ingredients into a bowl before handing it over for
a Mongolian chef to cook - either in a wok or on a Hibachi
grill. Theres plenty to choose from, and in the best traditions
of East Asian cooking the cuts of meat are lean, mean with
not a slither of fat to be seen. Perhaps thats why its rare
to spot a Polish diner. Fi fty five zloty gets you all you can
eat, which sounds a pretty fair deal to us. QOpen 12:00
- 22:00, Sat 12:30 - 22:00, Sun 12:30 - 21:00. (29-65z).
PTA6GSW
Polish
There are basically three ways you can experience the
Polish dining experience. The cheapest is at one of the
surprisingly large number of surviving communist era Milk
Bars, which you can read about elsewhere. Then there are
the chains of country cottage style places which turn out
Polish staples of rye soup, stuffed dumplings and heaps
of meat and veg in gut-busting portions. The third form is
still a relatively new one and involves a growing number of
young, world-class chefs using their talents to bring Polish
cuisine into the 21st century. We can happily recommend
all three forms depending on the occasion. Take a look at
the places listed here to give you an idea of which is which.
An exceptional restaurant in the
most beautiful park in Warsaw
Belvedere Restaurant
ul. Agrykoli 1
Free car-park from Parkowa street
tel.: +48 22 55 86 700, +48 606 102 002
restauracja@belvedere.com.pl
www.belvedere.com.pl
Fotoplastikon F-3, Al. Jero-
zolimskie 51, tel. (+48) 22
629 60 78, www.f otoplas-
tikonwarszawski.pl. Now, you
may hear some people claiming
this to be the only fotoplastikon
in Europe. This is clearly a lie -
theres one across the road in
the Palace of Culture, for a start.
Nonetheless, dont let that stop
your visit. Hidden away in a darkened pre-war tenement
a visit here really is a trip back in time. So what the devil
is a fotoplastikon? Invented in Germany in the second
half of the 19th century theyre basically a 3D peep show
(no, not the saucy kind) set inside a great big drum-like
contraption. Presenting vivid images from across the
world these groovy machines became an absolute
sensation and at any onetime there were an estimated
250 in Europe. Warsaw apparently got its first in 1901,
and the one on show here is thought to be from 1905.
Although fotoplastikons were made obsolete by improved
camera and film technology this one continued to open
for the public, and during the war apparently served as
a contact point for the Polish underground. Its role as a
meeting point for academics and intellectuals continued
well into communism, and today this family run operation
allows visitors to glimpse Warsaw and other global land-
marks in their pre-war glory. The show lasts 20 minutes
and comes highly recommended.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 4/2z. Sun free.
Fotoplastikon
Dont expect a gastronomic experience. Do expect a rare
insight into Eastern-Bloc Poland. Subsidised by the state,
this was food for the masses back in the day. With the fall
of communism many bar mleczny found themselves forced
out of business although a few of these canteens have
survived and, aside from offering an interesting diversion
for amateur anthropologists, they make it possible to eat
lots in return for a handful of coins. A Polish friend will know
which are the best and it is still interesting to see many
younger Poles still making regular visits to their favourite
one. Value is value wherever you are. Queue up at the
counter, peruse the choice of soups, meat and veg on offer
before placing your order, then watch in awe as matronly
ladies serve up everything from budget excellence to bowls
of slime. Weve seen both ends of the scale being reached
in the same place. One tip is to go earlier as the choice
and quality in some tends to fall as the day progresses. In
Warsaw keep an eye out for ones we list here.
Bar Mleczny Familijny C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 39,
tel. (+48) 22 826 45 79.QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 17:00. (3-13z). PUGS
Leniwa Gospodyni F-4, ul. Nowowiejska 12/18,
tel. (+48) 22 825 44 23.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. (10-25z). AGS
Mleczarnia Jerozolimska C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie
32, tel. (+48) 602 38 17 34.QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. (9-25z). PUGS
Milk bars
60
RESTAURANTS
61
RESTAURANTS
Amber Room G- 4, Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. (+48)
22 523 66 64, www.kprb.pl. Set inside the Sobaski
Palace what was (and indeed still is) the domain of the
Polish Business Round Table Club has now opened its
doors to the paying public. From the outside it looks the
sort of place youd see Prince Charles walking around
shaking hands, though inside, and in spite of the marble
and chandeliers, its a well designed area with more than
a nod to modernist touches.The seasonal menu includes
such must-haves as the fill et of beef wi th homemade
chips, spinach and barnaise sauce. Has Polish cuisine
ever sounded so exci ting? Of course, such pl easures
arent cheap, but then neither are they in the astronomic
zone youd be likely to presume. Q Open 12:00-15:00,
18:00-22:00, Sat 18:00-22:30, Closed Sun. (76-129z).
PTAGSW
Atelier Amaro G- 4, ul. Agrykola 1, tel. (+48) 22 628
57 47, www.atelieramaro.pl. Its not hyperbole to call
Atelier Amaro one of Polands most modern restaurants,
with famed chef Woj ciech Modest Amaro describing the
cuisine as where nature meets science. That science
is molecular gastronomy, which means almost nothing is
as it seems: an amuse-bouche arrives on the table with
a flourish of dry ice fog, revealing caviar atop a surpris-
ingl y citrusy foam. Meals can be 3, 5 or 8 moments
(what us regular folks call courses) and employ traditional
Polish plants like nettl es and beetroot in unexpected,
hi ghl y creati ve dishes - like j uniper ice cream hugging
a mi niature chocol ate cake wi th chestnuts. Count us
as impressed that Amaro himsel f can be seen serving
many of the dishes in this intimate restaurant just inside
Lazienki Park. An absolute must for diehard foodies. Q
Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:30, Sat 18:00 - 22:30.
Closed Sun. (128-240z). PTAUGW
Bazyliszek B-3, Rynek Starego Miasta 1/3, tel. (+48)
22 831 18 41, www.bazyliszek.waw.pl. Bazyliszek is
everything a camera-toting tourist could want in a restau-
rant on the Rynek: costumed staff, kegs used as part of
the dcor and a beer menu with reasonably priced Tyskie.
The meat-heavy menu is a somewhat bland introduction
to Polish cuisine, though the pierogi variety plate (meat,
cabbage, and cheese and potato) is a great way to sample
your way through a staple. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (20-49z).
PTJAIGS
Belvedere G- 5, ul. Agrykoli 1 (New Orangery in
azienki Park (enter from ul. Parkowa), tel. (+48) 22
558 67 00, www.belvedere.com.pl. Nestl ed i nsi de
azienki Park, Belvedere is a romantic orangery filled with
foliage and a smattering of well-dressed tables both inside
and out. Although the landscaping is undergoing renovation,
Belvedere is still a dramatic venue with peacocks wandering
the grounds and multiple waiters offering first class service.
The food lives up to the atmosphere, and diners can choose
between a Polish or international menu that includes tender
beef cheeks (a top recommendation) and exotic desserts
like zabaglione. Few places in Warsaw are this classy or
this expensive, and dare we say women are right to assume
a booking here means something big is in order. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (46-92z). PTAXSW
Biaa G G-5, ul. Belwederska 18 a, tel. (+48) 22 840
50 60, www.bialages.pl. Biaa G recently unseated a
favourite restaurant, Restauracja Polska Tradycja, and used
their name as the subtitle (in large font). We were inclined
to dislike it as a result, but after a visit we couldnt help but
enjoy. The menu is definitely upper-crust - you can get a
coated goose for 460zl if the mood strikes - but the changing
seasonal menu is both more reasonable and creative. The
dumpling with goose and cranberry sauce was rich yet light,
a description that is also apt for the dacquoise meringue with
coffee crme. The over-decorated interior, complete with loud
French music, has to be overlooked for enjoyment. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (39-84z). PTAIGSW
Biay Domek E-5, ul. Andrzeja Boboli 11, tel. (+48)
22 646 02 10, www.restauracjabialydomek.pl. Win-
ning applause from all corners is Biay Domek, an antique
looking effort with an almost floral theme and elegant look.
The guestbook here has been signed by all sorts, including
Doda, a scandal-sheet dream and this editors pin-up, while
the recipes are the work of a grandmother, and handed down
through x number of generations. It looks and feels exclusive,
yet Biay Domek is surprisingly affordable, with a particularly
strong choice of fish that fall just short of the 50z mark.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (34-65z). PTA6UXSW
Bistro Pita wiartka B-2, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48)
22 355 56 85, www.kregliccy.pl/piataCwiartka.php.
Adding a touch of class to the Old Town dining experience
is Pita wiartka, a sublime looking hall with vaulted brick
ceilings and arched glass windows. The castle location just
screams tourist trap, and while it cant be doubted theyre
chasing the museum crowd, it must be said that tourist food
has never tasted this good before. Opt for dishes like the calf
in fig and brandy sauce, but beware of the opening times
- themselves structured around the castle hours. QOpen
12:00 - 21:30. Closed Mon. (32-45z). PTAUGSW
Caf Zamek B-2, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 635
69 72, www.cafe-zamek.pl. Cl assy. Fi nel y-dressed
staff meet and greet you as you make your way to what is
always a grand, banquet-esque table, usually underneath a
The unique atmosphere, cosy decor and wonderful
smell of delicious Polish dishes are unforgettable.
Pl.Konstytucji 1, Warsaw
(entrance from Waryskiego St)
tel. +48 22 339 17 17, warszawa.konstytucji1@chlopskiejadlo.com.pl
reproduction of a famous Polish painting. Indeed, the decor
is worthy of a look even if you do not stop to eat. Not that
you should forego the nosh, including a terrific mushroom
soup and veal cutlets. The separate cafe serves some
exceedingly good cakes. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. (40-65z).
PTJAUGS
Ceprownia B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 7, tel.
(+48) 22 828 28 84, www.ceprownia.pl. Zakopane
arri ves to your doorstep in this thumb-sized mountain
themed karczma. This is l og-cutters heaven, wi th so
much timber incorporated in the design that it comes as
a surprise that theres any trees left in Poland. Diners,
many of them the product of the uni versi ty opposi te,
pack onto benches to sample sizzling treats that leave
absolutely no gap for seconds. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
(14-39z). A6GS
Chopskie Jado F- 4, Pl. Konstytucji 1 (entrance
from ul. Waryskiego), tel. (+48) 22 339 17 17, www.
chlopskiejadlo.pl. If youve been dying to try Polands tra-
ditional lard spread called smalec then this is your place. A
nationwide chain devoted to serving rustic Polish food from
the countryside, Chopskie Jado dishes up heaping portions
of meat and pierogis on wooden slabs, with a dish of smalec
and wedges of bread complimentary. The dcor is country
farm kitsch, with strings of hams and ancient machinery
dangling from the walls. Slide onto a wooden bench (avoiding
the decorative rusty saw) and start with local soups served
inside a loaf of bread before loosening the belt and working
through homemade dumplings and shanks of meat served
by staff that appears as if theyve just finished milking cows.
A winning intro to Polish food.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (15-60z).
PTA6UGS
wi t yni a Opatrznoci
Boej, or the Templ e of
Di vi ne Provi dence, has
been a work in progress
in Poland for more than
200 years. I ts current
incarnation as a building
site in Warsaws Wilanw
distri ct is more discon-
certing than divine, but the
history of the project is a
true example of Polish stick-to-itiveness.
The concept of creating a temple in Poland to honour divine
Providence (the guidance of God over all things) began
shortly after the Constitution of May 3, 1791, was adopted
in the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. That constitution
created more equality between classes and adopted re-
forms in the Sejm, such as eliminating liberum veto or the
power of any one member of the Sejm to nullify legislation.
So pleased were King Stanislaw August Poniatowski and
the members of the Sejm at the adoption of the constitu-
tion that they promised to create a temple devoted to
Providence as thanksgiving. One year to the day that the
constitution was passed a cornerstone was laid to begin
the process of building the promised shrine. Unfortunately,
the Polish-Russian War of 1792 (also known as the War in
Defence of the Constitution) kicked off shortly afterwards
and Poland was effectively eliminated from the map for
most of the next 120 years. The unfinished temple from that
era can still be seen in the Botanical Garden at Agrykola.
Fast forward to 1918 when Poland regained its indepen-
dence, and talk of creating the temple quickly resumed.
By 1921 parliament passed an act to fund construction,
but financial issues meant the project was turned over
to the Committee Commemorating Marshal Pilsudski
(the hero of Miracle at the Vistula and the first Marshal
of Poland), which adopted a skyscraper-like design for
the structure and an unfortunate starting date: 1939.
The invasion of Poland, six years of war and five decades
of Communism further derailed plans for the temple.
When the country returned to independence in 1989
the idea of thanking Providence was just as apt, and
by 1999 Pope John Paul II blessed a cornerstone for
the long-awaited temple. The temples final design, a
concrete and steel structure that will reach 75 metres in
height, was selected in 2002. In addition to the temple
the complex will also house a museum dedicated to the
beloved Cardinal Stefan Wyszyski and Pope John Paul II.
Despite the temples long history in Poland, it is consid-
ered a somewhat controversial project nonetheless. The
temples 40 million Euro budget has been co-financed
by the Polish government, an idea that isnt popular
with people who think the wealthy Catholic Church can
easily afford to foot the bill and that there are plenty
of other issues in Poland that could more effectively
use the money. In addition construction on the temple
has been lethargic, and cranes are a constant blight on
the Wilanw skyline. Throw in the fact that theres no
definitive end in sight and its easy to understand how
Varsovians could vote the temple onto a list of Gazeta
Wyborcza newspapers top five dislikes about the city.
Temple of Divine Providence
Lech i Wojciech
Szymborscy, COB own
materials
62
RESTAURANTS
Dekanta F-4, ul. Marszakowska 55/73, tel. (+48) 22
622 45 94, www.dekanta.pl. The uncluttered interior has
shades of the Austro-Hapsburg era with its vaulted ceilings,
arched windows and staff dressed as promiscuous looking
maidens. Flagstone flooring and a bar with wooden casks
mounted behind it complete your immersion into the days of
Franz Jozef, and the menu is a collection of generous meaty
meals like ribs in mustard and honey sauce with polish style
potatoes. Once youve cast the napkin aside head upstairs
for wine and views of Marszakowska. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (29-64z). PTAEGSW
Delicja Polska F-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
45, tel. (+48) 22 826 47 70, www.delicjapolska.pl.
One of the top eats around, set to a swish country manor
background of chintz, flowers and candles. Enjoy roast goose
with red cabbage and Silesian dumplings while aproned
staff cater to your whim and fancy in what is set to be one
of the premier dining experiences on the royal route. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (39-76z). PTAGSW
Dom Polski H-3, ul. Francuska 11, tel. (+48) 22 616
24 32, www.restauracjadompolski.pl. Much ink has
been spilt over the virtues of Dom Polski, some of it in these
pages, but there is no getting away from the fact that this
is a good restaurant. Found in a discreet villa on Warsaws
millionaires row you can expect Rolls Royce service from
the minute you walk in. The food is equally good, chosen
from a menu which is mercifully short, with just a couple of
starters and several main courses to choose from; how it
should be, in other words. We went for the urek followed by
the potato pancakes with smoked salmon and red caviar,
and couldnt fault a thing. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (35-98z).
PTAUGS
Dyspensa G-4, ul. Mokotowska 39, tel. (+48) 22 629
99 89, www.dyspensa.pl. Towards the southern end of
Mokotowska, Dyspensa specializes in churched-up Polish
fare like pierogis packed with veal and roasted duck. The
newly streamlined interiors give the restaurant a sophisti-
cated look worthy of its location, with beige walls and white
tablecloths benefiting from the pops of colour delivered by
strategically placed artwork. Try and grab one of the tables
by the window to get the best out of the place. QOpen 12:00
- 23:00. (56-89z). PTA6GSW
Feta na Freta B-2, ul. Freta 29/31, tel. (+48) 729 12
02 65, www.fetanafreta.pl. When we think of New Town
we automatically crave a kielbasa and soft serve from the
Market Square, but now cosy Feta na Freta puts a classier
option on the table. The menu sticks mainly to traditional
Polish dishes like homemade dumplings and roast duck, but
just as many visitors were indulging in the hot appetizers like
boletus soup with noodles. The stylish rustic brick interior
screams cosy date night. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (19-64z).
PTA6GSW
Folk Gospoda E-2, ul. Walicw 13, tel. (+48) 22 890
16 05, www.folkgospoda.pl. Far from promising on the
outside, Folk Gospoda unravels on entry as a glorious slice
of traditional Poland. Its inside a rugged interior of stout
furnishings and ceramic pots youll find boys and girls in
peasant attire rushing around carrying plates of fortifying
Polish food. Indeed, the Polish highlands meet the city inside
Gospoda, and thats never more so than when the band
strikes up to hoot and holler over the sound of busy diners.
If youre lucky enough to have a friend, then order the meat
platter for two, a death by eating affair that will have your
shirt buttons pinging off in no time. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(21-59z). PTAUEGSW
Whether you call it Poland is Not
Yet Lost, Song of the Polish Le-
gions of Italy or Dbrowskis Ma-
zurka, they all describe the same
thing: Polands national anthem.
Despite the various sombre titles
the anthem is composed in the
cheerful style of a Polish mazurka,
which is lively Polish folk music
that utilises a triple meter, and is
played at major sporting events and national holidays.
The song was originally penned by Jzef Wybicki in Italy,
where General Jan Henryk Dbrowski and his troops
were helping Napoleon conquer Italy at the end of the
18th century, shortly after the Third Partition of Poland
effectively erased Poland from the map (hence the line
March, March Dbrowski, from Italian lands to Pol-
ish marsz, marsz Dbrowski, z ziemi woskiej do
Polski in Polish). Neighbours Prussia, Russia and Austria
dissolved the once-powerful empire, forcing the Poles to
turn to France as an ally in regaining Polish independence.
General Henryk Dbrowski organised soldiers to fight with
Napoleon against the Austrians, with the hope of pushing
that fight into the homeland for a national uprising.
Wybickis tune was created to boost the morale of those
soldiers and proved to be an instant hit far beyond the
front lines thanks to its uplifting lyrics, which start with
this stanza:
Poland has not perished yet
So long as we still live
What foreign force has taken from us
We shall take back with the sabre.
The anthem contains a reference
to Napoleon with whose armies
the Poles hope to cross the Vistula
and Warta (rivers) .... Bonaparte
has shown us the roads to victory.
Unfortunately, as with most Polish
tales, things did not end well for
Dbrowski and his soldiers. The
French turned out to be less than
useful allies, exploiting the Polish
soldiers and decimating their ranks
via war and disease, effectively kill-
ing any chance of recapturing the homeland. But when
Poland once again became a free nation at the end of
WWI the song was revived and declared the countrys
official anthem in 1926.
One of the most famous performances of Poland is Not
Yet Lost came in 1945, when famed Polish pianist Artur
Rubinstein performed at the opening concert at the inau-
guration of the United Nations. Upset that Poland had no
delegation, Rubinstein played a loud, slow version of the
anthem, repeating the final section loudly. This display of pa-
triotism resulted in Rubinstein receiving a standing ovation.
The composer Jzef Wybicki called Polands Kashubia re-
gion home, and today diehards can visit the manor house
he lived in, which is now home of the rather unusual Na-
tional Anthem Museum. To hear the anthem click on the
link at president.pl/en/about-poland/national-symbols
National Anthem
64
RESTAURANTS
65
RESTAURANTS
Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie B-2, ul. Wski Dunaj 4/6/8,
tel. (+48) 22 887 65 20, www.gospodakwiatypolskie.
pl. Within a heartbeat of the Rynek Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie
serves up cracking Polish country cooking inside an interior
that blossoms with folk art and ceramics. Primary school
paintings of happy sunflowers adorn every available space
and diners seem happy to sacrifice the formality of nearby
restaurants in return for big portions of bargain Polski clas-
sics. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (19-49z). PTAIGS
Halka restauracja po polsku E-3, ul. Paska 85, tel.
(+48) 22 652 81 02, www.restauracjahalka.pl. Named after
one of Polands best loved operas Halka takes its name seriously;
interiors here have been painstakingly designed to mimic a 19th
century country manor, a clear nod to Stanislaw Moniuszkos
popular script. Dripping with elegance and lordly touches this is
upmarket Polish food at its best. And despite what the well-done
interior might suggest, they even have a childrens corner. QOpen
11:00 - 22:00. (16-62z). PTAUGSW
Honoratka B-2, ul. Miodowa 14 (entrance from ul.
Podwale 11), tel. (+48) 22 635 03 97, www.honoratka.
com.pl. Chopin is a big name in this city, so why not follow
the trail and head to his former hangout. Honoratka has been
operating as a restaurant since 1826, and youll find several
bits and pieces celebrating their most famous guest, as well
as the usual medley of hunters trophies stretched out across
the five vaulted cellars. If the weather is good make use of
the garden, an inner city oasis that isnt too different from
dining in a forest. Furthermore the menu is no slouch either,
and reads like something youd find at a Shakespearean
banquet; order mugs of mead alongside dishes like venison
and boar. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (23-45z). PTAXS
NEW
Kaprys C-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 22 578 22 32.
In a word: swank. Dont believe us? You can spot a Bentley
dealership from your table. Kaprys draws a clientele of nearby
businessmen who know the importance of a well-cut suit,
yet the service is universally attentive even if youre, say, a
scruffy writer. Captains of industry cut deals during the lunch
special, which spans three courses but doesnt dent the wal-
let - - you can easily still put in your payment on that Bentley.
The decor is modern sparse which can read as cold, but dive
into the menu and you wont be sorry. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(30-55z). PTA6GSW
Karmnik B-2, ul. Piwna 4a, tel. (+48) 22 468 06 64. Not
exactly inspiring from afar, on closer inspection (in that you
should go inside before deciding whether or not to eat here) this
is a tidy little eaterie in Old Town that does the simple things well
and keeps punters happy with fine service, big portions and a bill
a little smaller than almost all the other places in this over-priced
area. Among the decent dishes on offer youll find roasted half
duck in orange with baked potatoes. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (15-25z). PA6GSW
Obera Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem (Under the Red
Hog) E-2, ul. elazna 68, tel. (+48) 22 850 31 44, www.
czerwonywieprz.pl. The story heres a good un. In 2006
workers uncovered a secret underground eatery frequented
by all the communist bad boys youd ever think of; Mao, Lenin,
Castro and Brezhnev to name a few. Unearthed were a stack
of medals, manuscripts, menus and uniforms. This being
capitalist Poland a plan was hatched to make a mint from
resurrecting the restaurant and opening it to all. Thats the
story anyhow. Its actually claptrap, designed to fool tourists
and the occasional half-witted magazine. Still, this place forms
an intrinsic part of any commie inspired tour you may be doing
of Warsaw, and a jolly good place to dine on Tito Boar, PRL-
Those wanting to take a quick foxtrot through the world
of the Polish kitchen should consider putting the follow-
ing to the test:
Smalec: Fried lard, often served complimentary before
a meal with hunks of homemade bread. It sounds evil,
but it works like a miracle any day, especiall y an arctic
one. Ideally partnered with a mug of local beer. Any Polish
restaurant worth its sal t should give you lashings of this
prior to your meal. You onl y need ask.
Soup: Keep your eyes peeled for Polands two signature
soups; urek (sour rye soup with sausages and potatoes
floating in it) and barszcz (beetroot, occasionally with dump-
lings thrown in). Table manners go out of the window when
eating these two, so feel free to dunk bread rolls in them.
Bigos: Youll either love it or vomit. Bigos, a.k.a hunters
stew, is made using meat, cabbage, onion and sauerkraut
before being left to simmer for a few days. If you have
second helpings then consider yourself a Pole by defaul t.
Gobki: Boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion
and rice before being baked in a tomato sauce. Urban
myth claims Polands King Kazimierz fed his army gobki
before his victory outside Malbork in a battle against the
Teutonic Order. The unlikel y victory was attributed to the
hearty meal his troops had enjoyed before hand.
Kiebasa: Sausages, and in Poland youll find several variet-
ies made primarily with pork, but sometimes using turkey,
horse, lamb and even bison. Few varieties to watch for includ-
ing Krakowska, a Krakw specialty which uses pepper and
garlic, kabanosy which is a thin, dry sausage flavoured with
carraway seed and wiejska; a monster-looking u-shaped
sausage. Kiebasa was also the nickname of one of Polands
most notorious gangland figures of the 90s.
Pierogi: Pockets of dough traditionall y filled with meat,
cabbage or cheese, though you will also occasionall y
find maverick fillings such as chocolate or strawberries.
Placki: Nothing more than potato pancakes, often paired
wi th lashings of sour cream. Again, all your tradi tional
folksy Polish restaurants will have these on the menu, if
not you have every right to raise a few questions in the
direction of the kitchen.
Zapiekanki: Also known as Polish pizza. Take a stale
baguette, pour mel ted cheese on it and then cover it
wi th mushrooms and ketchup from a squeezy bottle.
Best eaten when absolutel y plastered. Where to buy it:
various fast food cabins dotted around the city centre.
Dessert: Few things in life get a Pole more animated than
a good dessert. Sernik (a kind of cheesecake) being a
must if you want to even attempt to convince a Pole you
have visited their country.
Kaszanka: This is the Polish variation of blood sausage,
in this case pigs blood mixed with groats, and is generally
served fried with onions. Unlike in other countries it is not
served in the form of a sausage. A variation on the blood dish
is Czernina, a soup made of ducks blood mixed with poultry
broth. An interesting tale is attached to this dish as it was the
dish served by the parents of young women to her suitors
as a sign that their proposal of marriage was not accepted.
Polish Food
owski Smalec Luksusowy (The Peoples Republic Luxury Lard)
and Fidels Cigars. In the background lots of sashes, portraits
and pretty young girls dressed for a May Day parade. QOpen
12:00 - 23:30. (28-49z). PTAUGSW
Pierrogeria B-1, ul. Krzywe Koo 30, tel. (+48) 604 17
90 02, www.pierrogeria.pl. If too many more top notch, great
value places like this open in Old Town, the area is in serious
danger of losing its tourist trap moniker. This divine little pierogi
stop keeps it simple, keeps it cheap and does so in a gorgeous
setting. The tables all get individual lamps, and if you can bag
one by the window at lunchtime then you should settle in for
a very long afternoon. Also at F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 2. QOpen
11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (20-30z). TAGSW
Platter by Karol Okrasa A- 4, ul. Emili Plater 49
(InterContinental Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 328 87 34,
www.platter.pl. Karol Okrasa is one of Polish cookings
leading lights and Platter is his new project. Completely
original menus change often as Okrasa demonstrates
that there is so much more to Polish food than starch and
stodge. We feasted early in spring and were rewarded with
ravioli with goat cheese and dried tomato sauce and tiger
shrimps in tomato cream and red lentils. The tastes were
superb and although you are paying towards the top end of
Polish restaurant prices here, you are getting to enjoy one
of Polands top young chefs at the price of a London steak
house. Relaxed, friendly staff who know how to make you feel
welcome only add to the experience. Highly recommended.
Q Open 12:00 - 16:00, 17:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 17:30-23:00.
(81-165z). PTAUGW
Podwale 5 B-2, ul. Podwale 5, tel. (+48) 22 828 77
00, www.podwale5.pl. Possibly the cheapest lunch in
Old Town, and with beer at 5.50z a pop, its possibly the
cheapest beer too. Soups, urek, pierogi and students can
all be found here, alongside business types, tourists and
locals: it really is the kind of place where everyone feels at
home and where sharing tables is part of the fun. The dcor
is a confusing mix of grandmas old furniture and posters of
dead celebrities like Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn,
but after your first Ukrainian beer youll be tapping your foot
to Michael Jacksons Billie Jean, embracing the time warp.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (12-29z). PA6UGSW
Pol ka, Magda Gessl er po prostu B- 2, ul .
witojaska 2, tel. (+48) 22 635 35 35, www.res-
tauracjapolka.pl. No other restaurateur dominates the
Warsaw scene like Magda Gessler, and Polka is one of her
Polish offerings to Warsaws growing band of gastronauts.
Like her other ventures Polka has a fairytale design that
makes use of floral prints and country clutter, and the inte-
riors here are a fancy muddle of frou frou chambers. But its
with good food that the name Gessler is most commonly
associated with, and here theres plenty of that to choose
from. Find your usual assortment of Polish delicacies, made
using the finest locally sourced produce. In added boon the
prices are kind on the eye as well. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(20-66z). PTAGS
Przy Zamku B-2, Pl. Zamkowy 15/19, tel. (+48) 22
831 02 59, www.placzamkowy.pl. An Old Town address
does not immediately make a venue a tourist trap, and
though at first glance you could be forgiven for thinking this
was just that, Przy Zamku merits closer inspection. For a
start they have a decent selection of vegetarian dishes,
they serve a cracking roast duck with apples, and the
prices are a bit steep but no more so than other - lesser -
restaurants in the area. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (30-120z).
PTJA6UGW
Feisty, beautiful and busty. Her image has bewitched
millions, and youll find her film star looks printed on
everything from flags to mags. But stop panting at the
back. She turns out to be it, and it turns out to have a
tail. Who is this godless Jezebel you ask? Well, none
other than the Syrenka, the fresh water mermaid whos
been representing Warsaw since before youd remember.
The first known mention of a mermaid as the symbol
of Warsaw can be traced to a royal seal dated from
1390, though this one certainly wasnt much to look
at; depicting a hideous looking bloke with a dragons
tail was as close as youd come to seeing a marketing
blooper in medieval times, so its no surprise that over
the next few centuries this rather grim form was given
a bit of plastic surgery man was turned into woman,
and the dragon became a fish.
The legend has been debated and disputed scores
of times, and its safe to say short of inventing time
travel were not going to become any of the wiser. Until
that time content yourselves instead by familiarizing
yoursel f with the myth. First off is the one youll find
espoused within these humble pages; Prince Kazimierz,
while hunting in the marshlands that are now Warsaw,
lost his bearings and faced a night in the open. Mi-
raculously, a mermaid emerged and guided the prince
to safety by firing burning arrows into the sky. Warsaw
was founded out of gratitude, and the mermaid adopted
as its emblem.
Story B, however, suggests that the Warsaw mermaid
originally hailed from foreign climes. Accompanied by
her twin sister the pair swam across the Baltic Sea,
arriving in Gdask. Here the sisters split, one swimming
to Copenhagen and the other down the Wisa, finally
wriggling out of the bit of water bordering the old town.
Local fishermen soon noticed someone tampering with
their nets, freeing the fish in the process, and teamed
up to catch this pesky vandal once and for all. They
soon changed their minds once they saw her, and her
siren like singing voice soon made her a firm favourite
among the lads. All except for one, a greedy merchant
who decided to trap her and take her on tour, Elephant
Man-style, round the sideshows of Poland. His plan
was soon foiled though after the son of a fisherman
heard her haunting voice wailing from a shed. Alerted
to her kidnap the fisherman hatched a daring plan to
free her, and in thanks to the townspeople who rescued
her the Syrenka swore to make it her li fes mission to
protect Warsaw. Its this defensive stance of hers which
explains why youll see her armed to the teeth with a
sword and shield.
Finally, youve got a third story to believe: back in ancient
times the city was defended by a noble gri ffin who
would frequently accompany fishermen on their forays
to the Baltic. It was during one such journey he met
a mermaid. Love took its course and she returned to
Warsaw where the two lived happily in the company of
the locals. When the Swedes invaded Poland the gri ffin
was mortally wounded during the siege of Warsaw, and
it was left to the Syrenka to pick up his arms and join
the defence of the city. Out of gratitude the people of
Warsaw chose to appoint her as the icon of the town,
placing her image on the city coat of arms.
Syrenka
66
RESTAURANTS
67
RESTAURANTS
7KH2OG7RZQ6TXDUH
LWFRXOGQWEHWDVWLHU
ZZZ]DSLHFHNHX
1 Frcia Si.
Tcl. 22 831 61 90
13 wiiojasla Si.
Tcl. 22 635 61 09
18 Frcia Si.
Tcl. 22 635 79 59
1 Podwalc Si.
Tcl. 22 635 30 61
Radio Caf B- 4, ul. Nowogrodzka 56, tel. (+48) 22
625 27 84, www.radiocafe.pl. Penetrate the curtains
to enter a legend, a venue with shady connections to the
underground broadcasts of Radio Free Europe. Attesting
to this past are photos, cuttings and sketches, as well as
an ageing clientele all too familiar with the bad old days.
You wouldnt define this venue as progressive, yet its an
immensely enjoyable way to glimpse pre-sushi Warsaw
and enjoy lively chat in an almost historic atmosphere.
The foods good as wel l, wi th central European stan-
dards that do far more than just keep the cold at bay.
QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (20-48z).
TA6UGS
Restauracja & Pub Zmysy C-4, ul. Nowogrodzka
20 lok. 2A, tel. (+48) 662 63 55 52, www.restaurac-
jazmysly.pl. Sometimes you want Polish food without the
pretence of country farm dcor and wooden bench seating.
Enter Zmysy, a comfortably uncluttered two-story restaurant
whose dcor begins and ends with basic fresh flowers. The
menu is equally as straightforward, with specials changing
daily (we liked Fridays 9.90zl potato pancake special) and
a Polish trout with boiled vegetables setting you back 35zl.
The bar isnt left out of the specials, and Wednesday beer
is just 6zl. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
(23-49z). TA6VEGSW
Restauracja Rana G-5, ul. Chocimska 7, tel.
(+48) 22 848 12 25, www.restauracjarozana.com.
pl. A two floor pre-war villa full of chichi touches, flowers
and crockery. Very pretty, but youll soon learn they attract
return custom on account of the cooking, not the interiors.
The setting might look high end but the prices are certainly
not, and youll find Rana recognized across the city as
one of the best dinner deals around. The veal liver with
onions and cherry sauce is divine. Plenty claim to open till
the last customer but only these guys are the real deal - i f
theres people dining then the kitchen will stay open, and
that doesnt matter i f its midnight or daybreak. Give a
quick call ahead to check. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (30-70z).
PTAIEXSW
Rozpusta Restauracja Polska A-3, ul. Elektoralna
23, tel. (+48) 22 499 51 78, www.restauracjaroz-
pusta.pl. Restauracja Polska Rozpusta is so proud of their
homemade pickles, sauces and jams that they use the
goodie-packed jars as decoration throughout the restaurant.
Its great advertising for the menu, which makes use of the
stuffed pantry in traditional Polish dishes like roasted leg of
goose with blackberries and a mixed salad packed with figs.
Desserts are also displayed around the bright grey and red
interior, and the meringue. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (25-63z).
PTA6UIGSW
NEW
Sony G-4, ul. Pikna 11 (entrance from ul. Krucza),
tel. (+48) 22 629 03 64, www.slony.pl. Magda Gessler
strikes again, but not with the usual overdecorated sit-down
restaurant weve come to expect; this time the celebrity
restaurateur has created a grown-up snack bar thats a com-
plete knockout. A glass case in the middle of the restaurant
houses a variety of canaps to choose from - wouldnt the
French die to see smalec and pickles on a canap? - and
the menu is populated with small meaty dishes primarily in
the 6-12zl range (can we call it Polish tapas?). The simple
homemade white sausage with onion jam is on our city-wide
best-of list, and with one entire wall utilised for wine storage
you can sip and snack your way to pure bliss. QOpen 08:00
- 23:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 -
23:00. (4-39z). PA6GSW
U Barssa B-1, Rynek Starego Miasta 14, tel. (+48)
22 635 24 76, www.ubarssa.pl. Old Town is packed with
standard places to eat, but has traditionally been something
of a desert when it comes to great places to eat. Times are
a-changing. As you walk into the elegant dining room you
will discover a world of luxury, craft and privilege (oh yes,
best save up before coming). Sole in lemon sauce and the
signature duck a la Barssa (baked with apples and served
with cranberries and plum sauce and accompanied by baked
potatoes and beet konfiture) are just a few of the treats you
can expect, and we have yet to mention the wine list. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00. (70-120z). PTAEGSW
U Chopa B-3, Pl. Powstacw Warszawy 2 (Gromada
- Dom Chopa Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 582 94 47, www.
uchlopa.com.pl. U Chopa is not your typical hotel restau-
rant, which youll notice upon descending into the faux Polish
Inn setting, complete with cabin-like walls at the entrance
and traditional old-school dcor. The interior matches the
menu, which opts for Polish cuisine from the country like veal
with mushroom sauce, pancakes with goulash and of course
plenty of pierogis. If youve always wished for a Polish grand-
mother to make you classics from the homeland, then this is
a pretty good and very central option. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00,
Sat 08:00 - 02:00. (15-45z). PTAUEXSW
U Fukiera B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, tel. (+48) 22
831 10 13, www.ufukiera.pl. The most famous restau-
rant in town with a guestbook that speaks for itself; Naomi
Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Ferguson are a few of
the names whove taken a seat here. The interior is a work
of art, crowded with paintings and antiques, its hard not to
feel a part of history when dining here. The food is the perfect
indulgence with perfectly presented game dishes. Your bill
is a different matter, and may present a double Dutch situ-
ation. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (41-105z). PTJAGS
U Kucharzy B-2, ul. Ossoliskich 7, tel. (+48) 22 826
79 36, www.gessler.pl. Cooking becomes theatre inside U
Kucharzy, a restaurant where chefs toil next to diners inside
what once served as the kitchen of the Europejski Hotel.
Black and white tiles, hams hanging from ceilings and florid-
faced chefs cursing over the din; eating here is like being
on the set of Ramseys Kitchen Nightmares. The food is no
nightmare, however, rather a collection of top priced game
dishes and other posh alternatives. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(39-72z). TAEGS
Zapiecek C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, tel. (+48) 22 826
74 84, www.zapiecek.eu. Packed through all hours this
pierogi kitchen assumes the Grandmothers country cottage
look, with pots and pans hanging from every shelf, and lots
of hard timber touches. Much talked about, their deliciously
light dough pockets come with all the fillings you can imagine.
If you dont fancy a sit down then check their street-level take
away window for lunch-on-the-run. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (19-36z). PTAGS
Portuguese
Portucale G-6, ul. Merliniego 2a, tel. (+48) 22 898
09 25, www.portucale.pl. Portuguese owned and run,
which explains why the few Portuguese natives we know
consider this place their emergency blanket. The journey - out
Mokotow way - is made worthwhile on account of a strong
menu split between delicious seafood choices and hunks of
meat. Now in new premises (next door to the old premises)
and with over 400 wines to choose from, their on-site shop
is just the spot if youre stocking up for a night in. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (35-69z). PTAUGSW
Offers Polish Cooking Classes and Weekly Culinary
Tours in various regions and cities of Poland.
In Warsaw join us on:
"A Three-Day Culinary Adventure Around Warsaw"
or
"A Taste of Poland in Mazovia and Warsaw"
Find out more and register online:
www.PolandCulinaryVacations.com
Email: info@polandculinary.com
We accept VISA, MasterCard, American Express and Discover
The Holocaust and the sub-
sequent destruction of War-
saw in WWII erased virtually
all remnants of the bustling
pre-war Jewish communitys
presence in the city. One
place where you can still get
a sense of the loss are two
rows of dilapidated tene-
ment houses, dating from
1880-1900 on ul. Prna
(B-3) which have a series of posters hung in the windows of
some of the disappeared Jewish community. The street is
now closed from the Pl. Grzybowski end as work has begun
on redeveloping the southern side of the street into office
space within the confines of the original buildings though
the northern side is still untouched. The photos that you will
see come from a project called I cigle widz ich twarze (I
can still see their faces) which was created by Goda Tencer,
a Polish actress with Jewish origins who is the founder and
director of the Shalom Foundation. In 1994 she had the idea
of appealing for people to send in photographs of Polish Jews
so that an exhibition could be created commemorating those
who died. Over 9,000 photographs were sent in, some from
survivors and their families, some from Polish neighbours
or friends of those killed and in 2008 the exhibition was
mounted in ul. Prna as part of the commemorations of the
65th anniversary of the Ghetto Uprising. The effect is quite
stunning particularly when you consider this street was once
bustling with life, full of traders, stores and Jewish families
and well worth a moment of your time.
I can still see their faces
Jacek Barcz, courtesy of
Shalom Foundation
68
RESTAURANTS
69
RESTAURANTS
Spanish
Casa To Tu C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 54/56, tel. (+48) 691
99 14 36, www.casatotu.pl. Theres two parts to choose
from, and while some prefer to stick to the square bar on
ground level most will be sneaking down the stairs. Its here
youll find a lovely set of basement rooms, all scattered with
muskets, hams and coastline paintings. From the menu
we suggest going all out on one of their signature paellas.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (29-59z). PTAXSW
Cuatro Caminos Tapas Bar B-3, ul. Grzybowska
2/16, tel. (+48) 22 403 87 48, www.cuatro-caminos.
pl. We can forgive the chef for giving us stinkeye when
we finally found this well-hidden tapas bar (stuck at the
back of a building, past a long overdue port-o-potty, it
fel t like a scavenger hunt). According to a sign on the
door that read 16-17 siesta, we were clearly about to
ruin his plans, and it was worth it. From the kitschy dcor
to the food, this place is authentic Spanish to the core.
Hefty helpi ngs of seafood paella, summery gazpacho
or snacks of Spanish meats, cheeses and olives will
instantly transport you to the sunny southern coast. Be
sure to order the house wine by the carafe-load. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 23:00.
(35-55z). 6UGS
Tex-Mex
Blue Cactus G- 5, ul. Zajczkowska 11, tel. (+48)
22 851 23 23, www.bluecactus.pl. Warsaw woul d
be a l ot poorer wi thout the Bl ue Cactus, an ol d ti mer
thats every bi t as good as i t was on day one. Burri tos
and burgers are outstandi ng here, and tradi ti onal l y
washed down wi th j ugs of margari tas. Ki ds are wel -
comed here, a negati ve to some a posi ti ve to others,
and the summer terrace i s a Sunday fave. QOpen
08:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
(24-86z). TAGSW
El Popo B- 2, ul. Senatorska 27, tel. (+48) 22
827 23 40, www.kregliccy.pl. Si ngi ng parrots and
serenadi ng Spani ards; El Popo sure know how to add
the dynami te to di ni ng. Havi ng suf fered somethi ng of
an i denti ty cri si s not l ong back El Popo have emerged
stronger for the experi ence, ser vi ng si zzl i ng faj i tas
matched wi th sharp, spi cy peppers. Al ways busy, and
for good reason too. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (29-62z).
PTA6UEGSW
Frida C- 3, ul. Nowy wiat 34, tel. (+48) 22 826
42 18, www.restauracjafrida.pl. Mexi can bal l ads,
sombrero shaped ashtrays and spl ashy pi ctures of
Fri da Kahl o; thi s pl ace has the l ot. Servi ce i s great,
fl i r ty even, whi l e the menu gets gongs for featuri ng
al l the ri ght Mexi can suspects. Theres a di sti nct l ack
of dynami te to the sal sa, but al l i n al l thi s i s a decent
addi ti on to Warsaws Mex of feri ngs, and a defi ni te
al ternati ve to your more tri ed Nowy Swi at venues.
QOpen 11: 00 - 24: 00, Fri , Sat 11: 00 - 02: 00. (22-
69z). PTA6UEGS
La Fiesta Tortilla Restaurant C- 3, ul. Foksal
21, tel. (+48) 22 829 85 60, www.l af i esta.pl.
Thi s i s an unnecessary addi ti on to Warsaws weal th
of good Tex-Mex restaurants, especi al l y consi deri ng
i ts proxi mi ty to Fri da on Nowy wi at. Where the budget
shoul d have gone on getti ng a proper chef i t got bl own
on an extensi ve sombrero col l ecti on, and as a resul t
the food i s Pol i sh fl avours wi th Pol i sh i ngredi ents. They
do, however, have an i mpressi ve tequi l a menu so i ts
worth goi ng for a margari ta or three, but we recom-
mend you head somewhere el se for your tacos. Al so on
Al. Uj azdowski e 22 (G-3). QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (26-47z).
PAGSW
The Mexican C- 3, ul. Foksal 10a, tel. (+48) 22
826 90 21, www.mexican.pl. Uncl og your system and
get your guts gargling by attending The Mexican, a venue
wi th shocki ng burri tos that come served under a sl urry
of cabbage and fl ori d sauce. What a shame - centered
around an adobe courtyard you won t find a finer l ooking
Mexi can restaurant i n town. I f onl y they focused hal f
as much attenti on on the food. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (20-50z).
TAIEXS
Warsaw Tortilla Factory F- 3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel.
(+48) 22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillaf actory.
pl. I n a countr y that consi ders ketchup spi cy were
al ways trepi daci ous when restaurants boast of any
sor t of heat factor. For tunatel y, the Warsaw Tor ti l l a
Factor y i sn t ki ddi ng when they cal l thei r habanero
mango sal sa expl osi ve. The rest of the Tex- Mex
menu al so l i ves up to expectati ons, wi th outsi zed
burri tos few adul ts can fi ni sh and a cheesy Phi l l y taco
thats so wrong i ts ri ght. And don t forget chi cken
wi ngs for 1zl on Tuesdays. Heck wed probabl y l i ck
the guacamol e of f the fl oor and wash i t down wi th a
Corona. We doubt anyone at the WTF woul d bl i nk i f
we di d si nce the mi xed crowd of l ocal s and ex-pats
i s equal l y as focused on thei r sal sa-l aden pl ates.
QOpen 12: 00 - 23: 00, Fri , Sat 12: 00 - 24: 00. (18-
60z). PTA6EXSW
Well-known
and respected Osteria
invites you to enjoy delicious
fish and seafood...
This is the only
such restaurant in Warsaw.
Entrance from Poznanska 2 str.
(Ul. Koszykowa 54),
Tel. 22 621 16 46, Mob. 601 243 466
www.osteria.pl, restauracja@osteria.pl
OPEN: Mon-Sat 12:00 23:00 or last guest,
Sun 14:00 22:00 or last guest
Russian
Babooshka C-3, ul. Obona 9 lok. 102, tel. (+48) 22
406 33 66, www.babooshka.pl. A smart little place, if
youre a peasant, otherwise be prepared for benches, beer
and borscht. Russian cuisine isnt for the faint hearted, and
the Babooshka chain excels at serving large portions of
vein clotting meats and veg in return for a matter of coins.
Also at (C-4) ul. Krucza 41/43 and (E-4) ul. Grjecka 18/20
QOpen 10:00 - 21:30. (15-25z). PTYAUGSW
Seafood
Osteria F-3, ul. Koszykowa 54 (entrance from ul.
Poznaska), tel. (+48) 22 621 16 46, www.osteria.pl.
Some of the best seafood in Warsaw, with a menu featuring fresh
oysters, langoustines, parrotfish (yes, really) and some very good
octopus. The modern interior includes hardwood and porthole fin-
ishes, as well as aquariums from which African fish look on in alarm
as their colleagues meet a sticky end in the open kitchen. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. (69-285z). PTAGSW
NEW
Top Fish C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 54/56, tel. (+48) 22 556 85
60, www.topfish.pl. Top Fishs authenticity smacks you in the
nose as soon as you walk in - - take a nice long whiff of the sea
and then peruse the well-stocked glass cases. Top Fish caters
to people who like their seafood so fresh it still has a face, and
you can select cuts of halibut or sturgeon to take home or have it
sliced, cooked and served to you at one of the waiting tables. Top
Fish also specialises in vegetarian selections - though if the fish
doesnt bother you, youre probably a pescetarian. Were partial
to two of the soups: the potato cream with salmon and the unique
Croatian soup thats packed to the gills with seafood. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. (19-34z). TAGS
Pressing on in our semi-encyclopedic review of Polish
cuisine brings us to pczki (singular = pczek). These
tradi ti onal round deep-fri ed doughnuts have been
known in PL since the Middle Ages, earning the status
of the nations number one pastry. Pczki are typically
filled with confiture (rose jam or other marmalades),
glazed with sugar and sometimes topped with a few
pieces of candied orange peel. Similar to American
j el l y doughnuts, the mai n di f ference i s Ameri can
doughnuts penchant for squi rti ng the eater wi th
disgusting jelly and Polands conservative tendencies
ensuring there is onl y a drop of marmalade in the
centre somewhere, which an elaborate game could
be made around trying to find.
So bel oved are pczki i n Pol and that they have
their own holi day. Known as Fat Thursday (Tusty
Czwartek in Polish), i t is tradi tion to eat pczki on
the last Thursday before Lent (known locally as Wielki
Post). The number of doughnuts made and consumed
in Poland on Fat Thursday is trul y astronomi cal and
visi tors to PL on this day shoul d not be surprised to
see peopl e queuing around the corner (a separate
Pol i sh tradi ti on) from the l ocal bakery i n order to
purchase the bel oved doughballs. The tradi ti on of
this feast day was borne out the need to use up all
of a househol ds lard, sugar, eggs and frui t before
Lent, during whi ch time abi ding Catholi cs shoul d be
fasting. This year Fat Thursday falls on February
16th, but pczki can be purchased i n any bakery
(cuki erna) any day of the year.
Pczki
70
RESTAURANTS
71
RESTAURANTS
Thai
Dziki Ry B-4, ul. Wsplna 35, tel. (+48) 22 628 18 25,
www.dzikiryz.pl. A decent choice of Thai, Korean, Indian
and Chinese dishes served up in a warm wood interior and
decorated with canvas lanterns, empty bird cages and flam-
boyant plant life. A buffet is available for 29.90zl until 18:00
or 34.90zl between 18:00-22:00 and during the weekends.
You can now find Wild Rice at three locations around the city.
Also at ul. Puawska 24b (G-5) and Pl. Inwalidw 10 (oliborz).
QOpen 12:00 - 21:30. (24-52z). PTA6UGS
Maharaja Thai B-1, ul. Szeroki Dunaj 13, tel. (+48)
22 635 25 01, www.maharaja.com.pl. The interior may
be disappointingly drab considering the location - inside a
medieval towerhouse - but the food most certainly isnt, with
a collection of fiery typically Thai dishes. We had the red curry
and our taste buds knew about it immediately. Not gourmet
dining, but a decent stop in an area of town not known for culi-
nary variety. QOpen 12:30 - 22:30. (26-48z). TAVGS
Natara A-2, Al. Solidarnoci 129/131, tel. (+48) 666
10 15 00, www.natara.pl. Natara has one of the strangest
dining spaces weve encountered: five tables are squeezed into
a cramped, low-ceilinged second floor thats so stuffy we saw a
diner apply deodorant mid-meal. But you know what youre going
to do? Put up with it, because the food is excellent. The pad Thai
is the best weve had in Poland, and the stir-fried rice with cocktail
shrimps, pork and pineapple is a steaming pile of excellence.
The menu comes in two giant tomes and has plenty of curries,
vegetarian dishes and noodles to hold you over until your next
trip to Thailand. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (20-48z). PAGS
ToBaYa D-2, ul. Ogrodowa 58, tel. (+48) 22 520 22
22, www.tobaya.pl. Pan-Asian offerings inside an office
building hiding by the backside of the Ibis Hotel. Its not easy
to find by any means, and neither does it look anything more
than your generic modern Asian restaurant that Warsaw has
found a fondness for. Luckily these issues are offset by the
kitchen which does a grand job on bringing to life Thai and
Japanese cuisines. The goreng dishes come recommended.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (23-98z). PTAUVGSW
Turkish
Lokanta B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 47a, tel. (+48) 22 585
10 04, www.lokanta.pl. The new look Lokanta certainly
feels the part. Starting with a glitzy purple entrance these
guys have caught on with Polands new found love affair
with all thing orient, and part of their image makeover sees
the launch of Turkish style dance parties - a right hip-wiggle
fest if ever we saw. Nevertheless, the bread and butter of
Lokanta remains the food, and youll find the full ensemble of
traditional dishes making their way out of wood-fired ovens
and charcoal grills. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:30,
Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (15-42z). PTAUGS
Maho Al. Krakowska 240/242 (Wochy), tel. (+48)
22 609 15 48, www.maho.com.pl. Well out in the sticks,
and probably beyond the investigative talents of all but the
established expat. But thats a great shame, because what
looks like a glorified kebab shop turns out to be so much
more. Set in a low-level modern building - the kind youd
see in a retail park - Maho touts a modern looking design of
dark, sleek woods, as well a menu that really gives a boost
to the flagging reputation of Turkish food; lets face it, the
kebab shops of Warsaw have done no favours to this noble
cuisine. To find such decent skewered meats is a rarity,
and Maho also sideline as an exotic delicatessen. QOpen
11:00 - 22:00. (22-42z). PTAUXSW
Ukrainian
Kamanda Lwowska C-3, ul. Foksal 10, tel. (+48) 22
828 10 31, www.kamandalwowska.pl. Heres a restau-
rant that gets back to basics, offering up a cavalcade of
dishes that have been otherwise deleted from modern War-
saw. Featuring peasant pictures and brick ceilings this isnt
the experiment in vanity you expect of ul. Foksal, choosing
instead to hark to the times when Ukrainian Lviv was actually
Polish Lww. The emphasis is firmly on the good old days
- before moustached dictators started dictating Polands
borders - and the design is a pleasing jumble of craftwork
and clutter. The menu, too, has been painstakingly perfected,
and includes such masterstrokes as cheesecake cooked
to a secret grandparents recipe. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30.
(32-86z). PTAEGSW
Vegetarian
Biosfeera F-6, Al. Niepolegoci 80, tel. (+48) 22 898
01 55, www.biosfeera.blog.pl. An ultra-funky interior full
of hanging canvas lamps, orange dashes and shining wood
finishes generates the hip atmosphere normally lacking in
Polish vegetarian haunts. The Koza Italiana is a fantastic
way to prime yourself for the meatless main courses that
come with names like Szpinakolada and Tortilla Kama
Sutra. Freshly squeezed juices and fruit cocktails come as
refreshment, and expect the thousand-yard stare if you ask
for a beer and an ashtray. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (29-39z).
TA6UGSW
Green Bar B-3, ul. Szpitalna 6, tel. (+48) 22 625 00
55. An oasis of veggie goodness in the meaty heart of
this carnivorous city, Green Cafe keeps it simple - soup,
quiches, light meals and the like - but does so very well
indeed, and keeps prices low, ensuring it a steady stream
of customers - at lunchtime especially. Just about your only
veggie option this close to the city centre, we say get here
while you can. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.
(11-17z). PAGS
NEW
smaczneGO! B-4, ul. Wsplna 54a, tel. (+48) 603
95 35 25. SmaczneGO is disarmingly simple: lots of food
for little money, all of it easily packed to go. Takeout orders
outnumber the sit-down diners and the employees earn their
wages hustling between the kitchen and the front counter
with containers of soup and piles of goulash. Theres more
vegetarian options than your average Warsaw restaurant,
though our veggie burrito stretched the boundaries of what
even the most liberal Mexican would consider legit (were
pretty sure the same tomato sauce used for the lasagne is
doused on top of the burrito). QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (9-16z). PTA6GS
We serve truly the best
Turkish food in Poland
B9KA9BI
Al. Krakowska 240/242, Warsaw
Tel. +48 22 609 15 48
www.maho.com.pl
Open everyday
10:00 - 23:00
Vietnamese
Nam Sajgon C- 4, ul. Bracka 18, tel. (+48) 880
63 39 85. This Vi etnamese gem has upgraded from i ts
ori gins as a stall in the National Stadium to a two-l evel
spot on Bracka, but the lines haven t changed. Thats
because you cant beat the fresh spring rolls or the large
vermi celli salads, whi ch will easil y provi de tomorrows
lunch too. The steaming bowls of Pho are one of the most
popul ar opti ons thanks to the deli ci ous meaty broth,
and the list of teas and Vi etnamese cof fee are equall y
impressi ve. QOpen 10:00 - 21:30, Sun 10:00 - 20:30.
(10-17z). GS
Proven masters of make-do with the potato as their
primary resource, the Poles have been producing and
drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling
their skill into some of the best vodka blends available
in the world, many of which date back centuries. The
two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands
must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which youll
find in any alcohol shop.
While clear vodkas are generally reserved for giving
away at weddings and mixing in cocktails, the real fun
of Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas. Un-
like beer with juice (regarded as highly emasculating),
flavoured vodkas are embraced by both sexes and
imbibed copiously. Most bartenders should be able to
provide you with a couple of these Polish specialities
Krupnik Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik
is a sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of
herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum drinking vodka doesnt
get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a
popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and
mulling spices added. You will often see it set on fire
with coffee beans floating in it. Beware
Mead This drink preceded beers arrival in Poland
and has remained a favouri te since. Distill ed from
honey, the drink comes in three strengths with Poltorak
(the kings preference) being the strongest.
Nalewka Barrel aged vodka flavoured with fruits,
herbs and spices. A national speciality, most Polish
drinkers will push this on you at some point, and it
makes a nice change from downing the straight stuff.
Podpiwek This is the Polish kvass, a light yeasty
drink whi ch is wi del y availabl e though you may be
mocked for ordering it. Best for the lightweights as
its name translates as sub-beer.
Wcieky Pies Translated as Mad Dog, this is a
shot made up of vodka, raspberry syrup, Tabasco
and favoured by students and all those wishing to go
home on all fours.
Winiwka
Undoubtedl y the most common fl avoured vodka,
winiwka is a cheap, dangerously easy to drink, cherry
flavoured variety. Youll see students and pensioners
alike buying trays of it at the bar, as well as toothless
tramps sharing a bottle in corners of tenement court-
yards. A splash of grapefruit juice is often added to
cut the sweetness of this bright red monogamy cure.
odkowa Gorzka
Due to its very name, which translates to something
like Bitter Stomach Vodka, odkowa Gorzka gives
even the most infirm of heal th an excuse to drink
under the guise of its medicinal properties. An aged,
amber-coloured vodka flavoured with herbs and spices,
odkowa has a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste
unlike anything youre likely to have tried before. Incred-
ibly palatable, its best enjoyed when sipped on ice.
Zubrowka One of Polands most popular overseas
vodka expor ts, ubrwka has been produced i n
Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with
a type of grass speci fic to the primeval Biaowiea
Forest that straddles the border (a blade of which ap-
pears in each bottle), ubrwka is faint yellow in colour,
with a mild fragrance of mown hay and a subtle taste
which has been described as floral or having traces
of almond or vanilla. Delightfully smooth as it is on
its own, ubrwka is most commonl y combined with
apple juice a refreshing concoction called a tatanka.
Polish Alcohol
Despi te the strong Cathol i c character of modern
Poland, some pagan traditions have endured. One of
the most blithely bizarre and eyebrow-raising is the
spring equinox celebration known as the Drowning of
Marzanna (Topienie Marzanny). Marzanna is the Polish
incarnation of the old Slavic goddess Morena associated
with winter, plague and death. Fearing her icy grasp, the
best way for superstitious Slavs to protect themselves
from Marzanna, encourage the timely arrival of spring
and ensure a good harvest was to partake in an old-
fashioned witch-burning, followed by a drowningjust to
be sure. (In an ironic incorporation of pagan folk tradition,
Christianity would enthusiastically adopt both of these
techniques centuries later during the witch hunts of the
Inquisition.) In medieval times the rite involved making
a Marzanna effigy out of straw which was then wrapped
in linen and beautified with ribbons and beads. On the
afternoon of March 21st, young children would play
with the idol, gleefully parading it around the village and
torturing it by dunking it in every trough and water barrel
they encountered. At dusk the villagers would gather at
the riverbank, setting the effigy ablaze and tossing it into
the water, cheering as the blazing wretch disappeared
downstream. Today the symbolic folk custom survives,
as every chil d i n ki ndergarten and pri mary school
annually participates in the creation of a Marzanna doll,
which can range in size from small puppets to life-sized
dummies. Under adult supervision, Marzanna is taken
to the nearest riverbank or bridge, set ablaze and thrown
to its watery grave as the children sing springtime and
witch-burning songs. For example: Ju wiosenne sonko
wzbija si po niebie / W tej wezbranej rzece utopimy
ciebie! (Loose IYP translation: As the spring sun rises
in the sky of blue / in this swollen river we are drowning
you!) Happy springtime, kids.
The Drowning of Marzanna
72
73
CAFS CAFS
Batida F-4, ul. Marszakowska 53, tel. (+48) 22 621
53 15, www.batida.com.pl. There are a few Batidas
around the city, but for the full Viennese coffee house
experience you need to get yoursel f to the flagship on
Marszakowska. A winter treat, grab a seat by the huge
windows in the elegant, high-ceiling dining room and feast
on a good, brief menu featuring - amongst other things -
excellent salads (the smoked salmon is a treat). The cake
selection is out of this world, and prices are not as high as
you might think. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 -
20:00. TAGSW
Blikle Caf C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 33, tel. (+48) 22 826
64 50, www.blikle.pl. A part of Warsaw folklore. This is
where Charles De Gaulle used to come for his donuts back in
his Warsaw days, and Blikle still sell a chocolate and marzipan
cake honouring their famous guest. A classy, august venue,
with a menu available until midnight that includes a range
of breakfasts, lunches, ice creams and a dessert selection
that will have you in heaven. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun
10:00 - 24:00. PTAGSW
Caf au Lait A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 19, tel. (+48) 22
256 01 61, www.aulait.pl. Next to the Westin, which
knows a thing or two about coffee and cakes, Au Lait needs to
be good. Fortunately, it is. It is also about ten times cheaper
than its neighbour. A good range of sandwiches - some made
with fresh, tangy goats cheese - brings in lunchtime punters
while early evening sees the after work crowd take over. Very
nice indeed. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.
PA6UGSW
Cafe Prna B-3, ul. Prna 12, tel. (+48) 22 620 32
57, www.cafeprozna.pl. Making a stir with Warsaws intel-
lectuals is Cafe Prna, a cracking cafe set inside a shattered
building that looks ready to keel over. Youll be lucky to find a
seat inside this narrow venue, even more so if theres a lec-
ture or reading going on. Decorated with pre-war photographs
Prna comes with a pile of well-thumbed history books in the
entrance, tiny tea candles and a basement level to soak up
any overflow of custom. The only disappointment here are
the smoothies; nowhere near as good as the venue deserves.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. 6GSW
Caf Vincent C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 64, tel. (+48) 22
828 01 15. This place is a great authentic French bakery
and coffee shop doing a huge range of authentic pastries and
bread. This is rather unfortunate as the large queue and tiny
shop space move quickly while you dither, and you also risk
being smacked by a baguette if you turn around too quickly,
but its worth it as a coffee and croissant will set you back
less than 20zl. Also at ul. Jana Pawa II 82 (D-1, Arkadia).
QOpen 06:30 - 24:00. PAGSW
Caffee Galeria Sztuki H-1, ul. Zbkowska 13, tel.
(+48) 22 619 81 09, www.caffee.stanowski.pl. We see
mismatched furniture and knick-knacks at a lot of cafes, but
rarely is it this well done. We think the fact that they also own
an antique gallery has to help (if you like what you see in the
caf you can visit the gallery at ul. Brzeska 6). The paninis
here are delightfully crisp and the tea selection vast, plus
theres Wi-Fi if youre planning for a longer stay - if thats
the case, order the crme brulee. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00,
Fri 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.
PTA6GW
Cava C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 30, tel. (+48) 22 826 64
27, www.cava.pl. One of those places that takes drinking
coffee to a new level. Sit back on comfy armchairs and take
in the bustle outside (the windows are floor to ceiling) while
enjoying the easy listening sounds. There are light meals too:
a good range of ciabattas and a banana cake the kids will
thank you for months afterwards. Also at (A-4, Zote Tarasy)
ul. Zota 59. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
PAUGSW
Chodna 25 E-2, ul. elazna 75a (entrance from ul.
Chodna), tel. (+48) 22 620 24 13, chlodna25.blog.pl.
The unofficial home of Warsaw counter-culture, and some-
thing of a community centre for wacko art types; theyre all
here, from expat hacks typing up tomorrows copy, to drama
queers committing theatre scripts to memory. Distracting
them from the duty at hand are jazzy tunes, poetry slams
and the occasional dog going woof. Chairs of varying style
and condition, board games, beer-by-the-bottle and batty
artwork all add to the atmosphere, making C25 every bit
as appealing as it is curious. Dont miss it. QOpen 08:00
- 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 -
24:00. P6EGSW
Coffeeheaven C- 4, ul. urawia 1a, tel. (+48) 22
622 51 75, www.coffeeheaven.pl. Polands definitive
coffee chain, and not unlike something youre used to
experiencing back home. Generic surroundings show little
imagination but the coffee, served in paper cups, is ideal
for your first thing in the morning caffeine fix. Made-on-
the-day sandwiches and smoothies are equally impressive
and Cof feeheaven have handy l ocations across town,
including the train station, a must-visit for anyone looking
to stock up before taking their chances on Polands rail
network. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.
PAGSW
Coffee Karma F-4, Pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, tel. (+48) 22
875 87 10, www.coffeekarma.eu. Earnest looking intel-
lectuals read Hesse while taking languid sips of hand-roasted
coffee. Huge windows afford views of Pl. Zbawiciela, and the
staff are also adept at fixing exotic smoothies. Ten out of
ten. QOpen 07:30 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 -
22:00. TA6GSW
Colombia coffee, lunch & cocktail bar F-3, ul.
Krucza 6/14, tel. (+48) 22 627 37 70, www.colom-
biabar.pl. Colombia is an ideal option for schizophrenics
or warring coupl es who can t make a decision: wi th a
coffee-slinging barista on the first level and a full bar on
the second, no one has to compromise when it comes to
coffee vs. cocktails. The two story windows overlooking
ul. Krucza add to the brightness created by multicoloured
furnishings and photographs of everyday li fe in Colombia.
With winters limited sunshine we predict Colombias tables
will be filled with folks in need of a shot of espresso and
daylight. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
PTA6EGSW
Costa Coffee C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 49, tel. (+48) 781
77 11 05, www.costacoffee.pl. Within the space of three
minutes Costa Coffee have invaded Poland and opened in
practically every major urban area - from Katowice to Gdansk.
Their Warsaw venture is precisely the same as all others,
with generic and sterile fittings offset by what is good and
reliable coffee. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00, Thu, Fri 07:30 - 22:00,
Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. PAGSW
Kawiarnia Funky F- 4, Pl. Zbawiciela 2, tel. (+48)
22 629 20 87. The arri val of Funky Gall eria caf at
Pl. Zbawi ci ela cements the l ocation as a certi fi ed caf
ghetto al ongsi de Charl otte and Cof fee Karma. So why
shoul d you choose Funky Gall eria? More attenti ve than
Charlotte and populated wi th fewer slackers than Cof fee
Karma, Funky Gall eria appears popular wi th grown-ups
stealing away for a sli ce of qui che and swimming pool -
sized lattes. Whil e the bri ght first-fl oor l ooks like your
standard modern cof fee shop, the second fl oor features
an enormous open gallery space interspersed with tables
and huge vi ews of Pl. Zbawi ci ela. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.
AGSW
Keks B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 1/3, www.kawiar-
niakeks-staremiasto.ebiznes.fm. Keks is one of the most
popular cakes in Poland (a bit like an Old English fruitcake),
and you can expect to find a very good slice of the stuff
waiting for you here. You should also expect a top Old Town
square location, but one which comes without the usual pre-
miums. No, no rip-off prices here, just a gorgeous, eccentric
little cafe of the old school, the kind of place you want to hug
and take home to your mother. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 23:00. A6GSW
La Vanille C-4, ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. (+48) 22 578 22
33, www.lavanille.pl. If you happily consider frosting as one
of the four major food groups then newcomer La Vanille is
your kind of place. The menu begins and ends with cupcakes
- just cupcakes - in flavours like white chocolate and straw-
berry, tiramisu and red velvet. And though cupcakes are a
comfort food, the Vanille space is much more stark than cosy.
All the better to focus on the frosting, flickering candlelight
and a frothy latte we say. We suspect La Vanille is the reason
so many ties on the surrounding streets are streaked with
icing. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. PA6GSW
Leniviec B-4, ul. Poznaska 7, tel. (+48) 22 350 77
77, www.leniviec.pl. On the surface there isnt much to
distinguish newcomer Leniviec from the scores of other cafes
in town: the walls are covered in large, strange paintings, the
music piped in is of the indie variety and the latte is more
than serviceable. But Leniviec doesnt rest on those staples;
youre just as likely to stumble on a Wednesday night board
game night as a packed out evening of young profession-
als wading through the impressive menu. Plans for future
lectures and cultural events promise to keep the citys intel-
lectuals coming in. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Fri 07:30 - 24:00,
Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PA6GSW
Lobby Bar B- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott
Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 630 50 30, www.marriott.com/
wawpl. The storied Marriott, Warsaws first Western hotel
chain to follow the fall of communism, has recently com-
pleted an impressive overhaul of its reception and Lobby
Bar. This smartened-up lounge appears to be the first (and
sometimes only) stop for business travellers intent on doing
that deal before relaxing in the red leather chairs and tossing
back expertly made cocktails while eyeing the activity on
Al. Jerozolimskie. Smartphone addicts will appreciate the
free Wi-Fi that comes with the purchase of a drink. QOpen
08:00 - 23:00. PAUGW
Magiel Caf H-6, ul. Stpiska 2, tel. (+48) 22 841
00 16, www.magielcafe.pl. Consider this the first (and
only) time well describe laundry as charming. New Magiel
Caf adorns its interior with washboards, vintage soap ads
and lines of clean wash, a charming nod to the spaces for-
mer life as a launderette. The menu is fresh, seasonal and
creative, with the artichoke tart and flat bean salad instant
favourites - vegetarians will swoon. The Magiel tea is also
a hit, an Earl Gray with orange, cinnamon, honey and clove
flavours. If you like to use the word organic as an adjective,
noun and sometimes a verb then Magiel will embrace you.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Mon 11:00 - 16:30, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 21:00. TA6GSW
If ever there was a sign of how far Poland has come then
Plac Trzech Krzyy is it - lined up like diamond ducks are top
bracket boutiques, a five star hotel, and a phalanx of jeeps
parked outside designer bars. This corner of Warsaw has
it all, and standing at the top of it is Dom Dochodowy (the
Incomes House), a glittering example of when old meets
new. Essentially a triangular faced townhouse the original
Dom Dochodowy is thought to have been constructed
back in the 18th century, before being improved on by
Antoni Luciski - the supervisor of King Poniatowskis
private cellar. Essentially comprising of three separate
houses (one facing Ujazdowskie, another Mokotowska,
and the final one staring down Trzech Krzyy), the proper-
ties served countless uses over the years, including that
of distillery, playing card factory and private laboratory
for one budding Harry Potter. The building survived the
Warsaw Uprising, but not in particularly good shape, and
for the following decades was allowed to rot slowly away.
Finally, at the start of this century, work was undertaken
by the Platan Group to restore the structure. The results
are fantastic - decorative plaster mouldings, polychromes
and historic decorations all saw the master touch, while
other details to look for include a floor mosaic making use
of four types of wood, iron balustrades and period-style
lampposts. Check the finer details for yourself by spending
in the Zegna and Burberry boutique inside, the Ale Gloria
restaurant in the cellar, or the stretch of cafes/bars/
restaurants to the side. Look for it on pl. Trzech Krzyy 3.
Ale Gloria C-4, Pl. Trzech Krzyy 3, tel. (+48) 22
584 70 80, www.alegloria.pl. Magnificent, enjoyably
over-the-top restaurant in the finest part of Warsaw
where the strawberry-themed decor appears amazingly
at home and where the food - often featuring strawber-
ries - will leave you determined to come back for more.
Duck breast with strawberry sauce and spicy strawberry
salad? Its on the Polish fusion menu here. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (58-110z). PTAUGSW
Czaji & Beluga C-4, Pl. Trzech Krzyy 3, tel. (+48)
22 584 71 01, www.strefagourmet.pl. There are
actually three places sometimes referred together as
Strefa Gourmet but well refer to them by their individual
names (Czaji, Beluga and Embassy).The phrase bright
and breezy could have been invented for this bar and
restaurant which serves fine food from early in the morn-
ing. There are breakfasts of all types (American with
pancakes, English with eggs, baked beans and a decent
bit of sausage), an impeccable lunch roster (the onion
soup was top notch) and an evening menu of fine, light
meals: the caviar and smoked salmon blinis are impos-
sibly moreish. This venue also serves some of the best
fish dishes we have tried in the city. With no fewer than
17 herbal teas to choose from youll also find the perfect
partner to match your choice from the cake selection.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (27-178z). PTAXSW
Embassy C-4, Pl. Trzech Krzyy 3, tel. (+48) 22 584
71 01, www.embassy.pl. There are cafes and cake
shops and then there is Embassy. And endless selection
of the finest desserts known to man will have your mouth
watering the moment you walk in and catch sight of the
display. Add in other treats, such as home-baked bread,
freshly squeezed fruit juices and plenty of comfy sofas
and you can see why its so popular with Warsaws ladies
who matter. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PTAUXSW
The Incomes House
74
75
RESTAURANTS
CAFS
Pachncy Dom Same Fusy B-1, ul. Nowomiejska 10,
tel. (+48) 22 831 99 36, www.samefusy.pl. An arcane
looking candle lit cellar that induces a zen like spell on all who
enter. The design is very Lord of the Rings, with tree trunks
used as tables and a scattering of artsy oddities hanging off
the walls. Perch yourself on one of the stools, before rolling
the dice and picking from the hundred plus teas on sale.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. TA6IXSW
Saint Honor C- 3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
20/22, tel. (+48) 508 14 39 87, www.saint-honore.pl.
The smell of freshly baked French breads and croissants will
easily lure you into Saint Honore, which features an excep-
tional spread of baked goods - a nice alternative if youve
burned out on Polish doughnuts from the local piekarnia.
Lattes are cheaper than the big chains, and soft leather
chairs and booths allow you to settle in for long sips. Also at
(E-3) ul. Grzybowska 61 and (F-4) ul. Mokotowska 1. QOpen
07:00 - 21:30. PA6GSW
SensNonsensu ul. Wileska 23 (Praga - Pnoc), tel.
(+48) 660 75 76 77, www.sensnonsensu.pl. A weird
name, vintage furnishings, leftfield music acts and people
with DIY haircuts. It almost goes without saying youll find
SensNonsensu in Praga, whats a little more surprising is
the storming choice of beer. Particular credit goes to ywe
(not to be confused with ywiec) and the Ukrainian Obolon
Aksamitne. The design, however much you like it, is exactly
the same as everywhere else in the vicinity - Singer sewing
machines and leaning lampshades. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00.
P6EGW
Sklep z Kanapkami C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
11, tel. (+48) 22 826 20 41. A shabby-chic little bistro
on Krakowskie thats a great place to stop for a smoothie
and snack. It has a young and rather carefree feel, as do
the staff, who are sometimes too busy being young and
carefree amongst themselves to notice you. The food is
healthy Polish (if such a thing exists), and they do interesting
takes on Polish classics - the blueberry pierogi are great - and
the coffee menu is very tempting. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
A6GSW
Sodki Sony G-4, ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. (+48) 22
622 49 34, www.slodkislony.pl. Exceedingl y ornate
interiors announce the arrival of one more Magda Gessler
venture, this one with a heavy emphasis on cakes, pastries
and chocolate. Theres guilty pleasures aplenty in this place,
and all packaged inside a design thats half Martha Stewart
and half English country house. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Mon
11:00 - 24:00. PA6GSW
Specjay Regionalne C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 44, tel.
(+48) 662 25 42 15, www.specjalwiejski.pl. This is a
great little caf and deli serving out meat and potatoes in
all their varying Polish forms, but in small enough portions to
not come away in pain. Think Polish tapas - its a great place
to go and sample the full range of Polish sausage meat and
ham, especially when the prices are so small. As an extra
bonus, if you really like what you have you can order some
more from the deli to take home for later. Furthermore, the
owner is something of a mead fanatic and they have a great
hot and cold selection. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 -
22:00. PAGS
Starbucks Coffee C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 62, tel. (+48)
71 386 19 53, www.starbucks.pl. Anti-globalists weep.
After years of threatening so the agents of Satan, Starbucks,
have opened shop in Warsaw, and in the most obvious loca-
tion of all - bang on Nowy wiat. And its everything youd
NEW
Mi ni sterstwo Kawy F- 4, ul . Marsza kowska
27/35, tel. (+48) 512 09 18 40, www.ministerstwo-
kawy.pl. Another caf at Plac Zbawi ci ela? Just when we
thought i t had reached cri ti cal mass (Charl otte, Cof fee
Karma and Kawiarnia Funky are all mere steps away)
Ministerstwo Kawy throws open i ts doors and proves
that all you trul y need for a successful cof fee shop is
an espresso machine, a few chairs and reliabl e Wi -Fi.
Oh, and bathrooms. Students have claimed this place
as their own, and the tabl es are consistentl y fill ed wi th
backpacks and hal f-eaten bowls of soup. Our favouri te
spot for pulling l ong laptop sessions wi th no hassl e or
hipsters. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.
PA6UGSW
MiTo art.cafe.books F-4, ul. Waryskiego 28, tel.
(+48) 22 629 08 15, www.mito.art.pl. Thi s caf/
bookstore/art gallery hybrid meets multiple needs on busy
Warynskiego. Whether youre a student hiding beyond a pile
of books (but actually reading Vogue) or desperately in need
of a copy of Pilsudskis biography MiTo can accommodate
- and do so in style. The high-ceilings and white walls make
for a bright meeting place, and the gallery adds a welcome
pop of colour (and artsy bizarreness) to your pit stop for
coffee. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00.
PTA6UEGW
MyOMy B- 3, ul. Szpitalna 8 (entrance from ul.
Grskiego), tel. (+48) 22 826 19 16, www.myomy.pl.
Teeny tiny My O My is postage-stamp sized and completely
adorable. Considering its size were not sure how theyre
able to offer so many di fferent kinds of teas and luscious
desserts (cocoa mousse tart? Wi th whi te chocol ate,
blueberries and lemon? Yes, please) but were not going
to question it, were just going to ingest. Their HasBean
coffees are perfectly roasted, though the sangria is equally
tempting. And even though they are itty bitty, they still have
space for a small stack of toys and games to entertain
the kidl ets whil e you sip. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Mon
11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
TA6EGSW
Opasy Tom PIW C-3, ul. Foksal 17, tel. (+48) 22 621
18 81, www.kregliccy.pl. Its odds on this will become your
favourite Warsaw bistro and wine bar in an instant. From
outside it looks more like a bookshop, given the healthy
numbers of volumes on display (all of which you are free to
pick up and read). Serving bistro food, the menu changes
almost daily so food write-ups are pointless, except to
say that whatever we have eaten here as been good and
well priced. Adventurous foodies should go for one of the
tasting menus: not cheap, they are a culinary treat that can
last for hours. The extravagant wine list appears to bring in
as many customers as the food: especially given that they
serve everything by the glass. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PTA6GSW
Osir Cafe C-3, ul. Tamka 40, tel. (+48) 694 48 75 54,
www.osir-cafe.blogspot.com. Associate with tattooed
cycling enthusiasts in Osir, a weird caf where investment
stopped the moment a couple of bikes were attached to the
ceiling. Decorated with white bricks, hal f-collapsed lamp-
shades and the sort of battered plastic furniture youd find in
a school common room, this is not the place if you demand
designer java amid design store interiors. If, however, you
want something with a beaten atmosphere and a friendly
welcome then you cant go far wrong - arrive at night when
Warsaws bicycling fraternity do a good job of living up to their
alternative rep. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. A6UEGSW
expect - big, comfortable, popular, and with very good coffee
combos to keep the people coming over and over again. Also
on (A-2) Al. Solidarnoci 68a, (A-2), Al. Solidarnoci 82, (A-3)
ul. Emilii Plater 53 and (B-4) Al. Jerozolimskie 63. QOpen
07:30 - 21:30, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:30.
PTAUGSW
Szpilka C-3, Pl. Trzech Krzyy 18, tel. (+48) 22 628
91 32. Szpilka once stood on the cutting edge of Warsaws
night scene, offering a modern European menu, round-the-
clock hours and sharp design. Today this white-on-white
caf, bar, meeting place, buzzes long after the rest of
Warsaw sleeps, but thats no reflection of quality. The
food verges on abysmal, though its still a good bet i f youre
looking to greet dawn with a strong drink. Q Open 24hrs.
PTA6GSW
Tel-Aviv Cafe + Deli B- 4, ul. Poznaska 11, tel.
(+48) 22 621 11 28, www.tel-aviv.pl. Jewish cuisine
in Warsaw gets a bad rap - think singing waiters and old
town rip-offs. So Tel Aviv is a refreshing change, a cool
caf/deli which doesnt play to the standard caricature.
On the contrary, find a hip venue that draws everything
from intrigued backpackers to remnants of the local Jewish
community. Weirdness like Sabbath chillout sessions add to
the random, eclectic nature of this place, and its rounded
out nicely by Israeli drinks and nibbles that include fresh
hummus. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 08:30 - 24:00.
TA6GSW
To Lubi B-1, ul. Freta 10, tel. (+48) 22 635 90 23,
www.tolubie.pl. Divine. Coffee, cakes, pies, breakfast, cof-
fee and apple or plum crumble at 12zl a slice (not necessarily
in that order). Opposite the church on a street that is best
known as being tourist-trap central, this is the kind of place
you can get all twee and generally Krakow for a moment.
Old/New Town should be full of places like is. I like this is
what the name means and we do. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
PTA6GS
Tree Some Coffee B-3, ul. witokrzyska 32, tel.
(+48) 603 20 23 55, www.treesomecoffee.pl. Sitting on
the oft-forgotten and sadly overlooked northern side of the
PkiN, this is a glorious little sandwich and coffee bar, all bright
colours and happy staff, which appears popular with a young,
studenty crowd looking for tasty bargains. And that is what
you get here: big sandwiches packed with fillings of all sorts
that cost very little. Also at ul. witokrzyska 16 (B-3) QOpen
07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PA6GSW
Wrzenie wiata C-3, ul. Gaczyskiego 7 (entrance
from ul. Nowy wiat 48), tel. (+48) 22 828 49 98, www.
instytutr.pl. Set back from stylish Nowy Swiat, this combina-
tion bookstore/cafe is so awash in hipster bookishness that
you expect to see James Franco hunched over a copy of 100
Years of Solitude. Morrissey plays from the speakers, Mac
laptops dot the tables, and the shelves are stocked with
epically titled tomes like The History of Photography. Its a
lot of pretense, but it works; we especially dig the well-priced
coffee and fast wi-fi. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 -
22:00. A6GSW
Zielnik G-6, ul. Odyca 15, tel. (+48) 22 844 35 00,
www.zielnikcafe.pl. From the outside it may look like you
are about to enter a florist. A gorgeous interior split into
four dining rooms come bursting with plants, greenery, and
froufrou Laura Ashley touches. This is a caf menu on a par
with some of the best restaurants in town, with dishes like
roast duck with apples and ginger and Bergamo pancakes
to pick from. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30. PTAGSW
If theres one universal
truth about Pol es i ts
that they love their des-
sert. What might be con-
sidered a special treat or
indulgence in your coun-
try is a standard part of
the meal, a staple not
to be left out. A lap past
any ice cream parlour or bakery typically reveals long
lines and hefty purchases (yet still the Poles stay impres-
sively skinny. Unfair). Evidence of this sugary fanaticism
can be found in the long tradition of chocolate lounges,
cafes that are devoted to the cocoa-driven nectar in a
way you thought only Hansel and Gretel could imagine.
Mount Blanc Pijalnia Czekolady i Kawy B-4,
ul. Chmielna 27/31, tel. (+48) 22 826 70 80, www.
mountblanc.pl. The lone interloper among the choco-
late lounges in Warsaw is newcomer Mount Blanc, which
boasts Belgian chocolates (140 to choose from) and
desserts for those who want an international spin on their
addiction. Choosing among the various truffles - some
shaped like a dogs head and corncobs - requires only
the point of a finger before the gloved hand of a Mount
Blanc employee snaps up your selection. An array of
ice cream dishes, hot chocolate and desserts are on
hand, but the go-to choice for regulars are the ganache
truffles. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00,
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. PAGSW
Pijalnia Czekolady Wedel B-3, ul. Szpitalna 8,
tel. (+48) 22 827 29 16, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. The
reason everyone at Czekolady Wedel looks like theyre in a
daze is because this is the mothership of chocolate cafes,
ground zero for all things dark, milk and achingly sweet.
Wedel is the countrys longest established chocolate
manufacturer and one of the best known brands in Poland.
This classy venue, featuring comfortable seating in room
after room of tables, is located in what was once the fac-
tory and cafe of the Wedel business. Youll still be able to
taste the original chocolate creations of its founders which
were so popular that Karol Wedel had to introduce a fac-
tory seal carrying his signature to combat the number of
forged Wedel products that were filling the market in the
1860s. The menu here is impressive in both its size and
scope, covering every variety of chocolate drink, dessert,
truffle and ice cream dish imaginable. Chocolate comas
are inevitable. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00. PTAGSW
Wawel B-3, ul. Krlewska 2, tel. (+48) 22 828 14
99, www.wawel.com.pl. Yes it sounds awfully similar to
Wedel, and their histories are equally alike. Confectioner
Adam Piasecki founded the company in 1898 in Krakow
and, making it through World War II, become a recognizable
Polish brand for sweets. Their Warsaw chocolate lounge is
located on swank Krakowskie Przedmiescie, and though
it is nowhere near as vast as the Wedel lounge nor as
daunting in menu choices, chocoholics can still indulge in a
ridiculous array of truffles and treats. The hot chocolates
impressively diverse for the adventurous, with Cherry
Crush and Cinnamon Islands recommended for those
who like to compliment their chocolate with additional
flavors. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 22:00, Sat
11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PA6GSW
Chocolate Lounges
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Bars & Pubs
+ One Bar A-4, ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental
Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 328 88 88, www.warsaw.intercon-
tinental.com. The menu proclaims their Bloody Mary as the
best in town, and they may well be right. Someone knows
their cocktails here, and theyre made all the better by the
complimentary bowls of heated peanuts that accompany
each order. A classic tone is accomplished with live piano
music, shelves filled with leather-bound tomes and framed
pictures of pootling steam trains. Pretty girls in little black
dresses ensure your drink is never empty and this first floor
hotel bar proves a comforting cocoon from the outside ele-
ments. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAUIEGW
Bar Tektura B-4, ul. Poznaska 12. Bar Tektura appears
to be neighbouring Beiruts more low-key sibling: the space
itself is the same, but the music is more subdued, the lights
are brighter and the decor more architectural. Cardboard is
unexpectedly used as a key design element, and customers
are encouraged to scribble on the scrolls of provided paper.
Theres an array of snacks and a small menu (written on
cardboard of course) and bottles of Polish beers to spill on
your drawings. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00. AUGW
Beirut Hummus & Music Bar B-4, ul. Poznaska
12. Our favorite new addition to Warsaws bar scene, Beirut
is pure atmosphere - the bar itself is made with sandbags,
after all - - and offers traditional Lebanese snacks like olive
oil-soaked hummus and falafel to pair with your beer. While
the weather is nice the front is open to the street, letting
passersby marvel at the sound system and the unique hair-
styles of the hip staff. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. AUGW
Bierhalle C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 64, tel. (+48) 609 67
77 65, www.bierhalle.pl. Warsaws best beer served in
a bi-level space filled with chunky woods, bare bricks and
industrial flourishes. The menu, presented by girls dressed
in countryside apparel, features big photographs of what you
can expect, including life-size pics of the beer - order a big
one here and youll be left getting to grips with clunky two pint
steins that are ideal for showing off your bicep flexes. Also
at Al. Jana Pawa II 82 (D-1, Arkadia). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PAGW
Bojangles Bar & Lounge B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 45
(Polonia Palace Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 318 28 33, www.
bojangles.pl. Back after a brief refit the signature bar of the
Polonia is pretty much exactly how we remember it - sharp,
smooth and rather quite sexy. Set on the ground floor of this
venerable hotel Bojangles comes with muted lighting, dark
colours and a staff more than capable of fixing up off-menu
cocktail creations. QOpen 15:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 -
01:00. PAUEGW
Cafe Bar Lemon B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 6, tel. (+48)
22 829 55 44, www.cafelemon.pl. One of the few spots
in Warsaw that is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week,
Caf Bar Lemon sits above the busy Lemon Club and acts as
a launching point for an evening of fun in busy Sienkiewicza
street (or the place to wrap up your debauchery, since om-
elets and pancakes can be had for hangover prevention). The
bright yellow walls and loungey furniture seem to encourage
long-term cocktail sipping. Q Open 24hrs. PAXW
Cafe Kulturalna (Culture Caf) B-4, Pl. Defilad 1
(PKiN), tel. (+48) 22 656 62 81, www.kulturalna.pl.
Cafe, bar and club, Cafe Kulturalna is an amazing space, and
unmissable if you appreciate a venue with character. Deco-
rated with vinyl armchairs, artwork and tasteless 50s chan-
deliers this is a magnet for the student intelligentsia. DJs, film
screenings, readings and assorted artsy tosh regularly held.
Find it in the Palace of Culture on the Marszakowska side
of the building next to the theatre in the south-east corner.
QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. AUEGW
Caf Szparka C-4, Pl. Trzech Krzyy 16a, tel. (+48) 22
621 03 70, www.cafeszparka.com.pl. Most people cant
wait to tell you how much they hate Szparka, though theyre
probably the same bods youll see rolling out the door come
closing time on Sunday. The multi-level interior has the vapid
appeal of a chain bar back home, the staff live on pause and
the chow is the work of amateurs. Still, theres a secret recipe
that keeps people coming back for more - possibly the ob-
scenely flexible opening hours. Q Open 24hrs. PAXW
Champions Sports Bar & Restaurant B- 4, Al.
Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. (+48) 22
630 51 19, www.champions.pl. A classic sports bar
filled with glittering trophies, signed shirts and other sporting
detritus. Some 30 screens and projectors beam out action
from across the world, while those wishing to exercise more
than their eyes can choose from pool tables, playstations
and dart machines that beep and whir during moments of
particular drama. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAUXW
Column Bar C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 42/44
(Le Mridien Bristol Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 551 18 32,
www.lemeridien.pl. A cavernous art nouveau interior pro-
vides perfect acoustics for the house pianist, while parlour
palms and marble columns top off this seriously impressive
venue which gives you into a Poland long since destroyed.
In summer the courtyard garden provides perfect sanctuary
for high society to take languid sips on Martini concoctions.
QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAUEGW
Confashion Sport Bar B-2, ul. Moliera 6, tel. (+48) 22
203 68 88, www.confashion-sport.pl. We had apparently
(according to some reports) been too harsh on this place first
time out, so we revisited it. Well, its as per, were afraid. A
lovely girl opens the door for you as walk in, but then - job ap-
parently done - fails to tell anyone that customers are waiting
downstairs (the smoking section) for drinks. For while there are
more TV screens showing sports than you can shake a stick
at, there are few customers and even fewer bar staff. Having
waited five minutes in vain for a barman to appear we decided
that either the place is some bizarre living art piece or that the
bar was self-service. We left. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
14:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. PAUXW
Gniazdo Piratw ul. Oglna 5 (Bielany), tel. (+48) 22
633 71 82, www.gniazdopiratow.com.pl. Relive your
pirate dreams of yesteryear while cracking jokes about Sea-
man Stains inside this imperious addition to Warsaw culture.
Jolly Roger flags and lanterns hang from the rigging and live
sea shanties have the crowds singing along in a tuneless
chorus. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00. PAEX
Hard Rock Cafe B-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Sure you
dont need to see Freddie Mercurys red leather pants to
enjoy a night out, but it certainly doesnt hurt. The Hard Rock
Cafes large downstairs bar area is jumping at night even
when live rock shows arent on the agenda. The endless
bar mixes up a long list of colourful cocktails for a heavily
ex-pat crowd taking in paraphernalia like a well-worn Bee
Gees guitar and a black leather outfit that formerly clung to
Madonnas early 90s frame. When music is on tap the crowd
becomes more varied (and youthful) but just as devoted to the
strum of a Fender. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PAUEGW
A thriving capital city it might be, but Warsaw still lags
behind other European hotspots when i t comes to
hedonistic capers. There is no area truly set aside for
nightlife, and hailing taxis to get from Bar A to Club B is
a tediously frequent occurrence. The area around pl.
Pilsudskiego and pl. Teatralny has become a firm favou-
rite with a dressy crowd of new money Poles, somewhat
replacing the more established territories of Nowy Swiat,
pl. Trzech Krzyzy and ul. Sienkiewicza. If dressing to the
nines is firmly out of the question then consider heading
across the river to the artsy bars cropping up in the Praga
district. In a worrying development many clubs have now
assumed the thinking that clothes maketh the man,
and youll find most clubs now operating a velvet rope
door policy to ensure only those kitted in their Saturday
finery make it as far as the dance floor. Open hours
listed should only be treated as rough approximation; in
practice many bars and clubs will open way beyond the
call of duty if the need arises, but by the same benchmark
will happily bolt the doors if business has been slow.
Here are a few recommendations depending on what
you are looking for.
Local
Bierhalle is a large microbrewery on Nowy Swiat that
churns out respectable vats of beer in a central location.
Newcomer Znajomi Znajomych is one of Warsaws
most popular at the moment and features two stories
and a large smoking area for committed drinkers. And
across the river in Praga the strange Po Drugiej Stronie
Lustra has nearly every bottle you can imagine.
Cheap
It has to be the Secret Garden, a ramshackle collection
of dive bars in the courtyard behind Nowy Swiat that
offeres Warsaw drinking in its rawest form. Just before
the Old Town youll find Bar Warszawa, which is open
24 hours and can put beer or vodka in your hand for a
mere 4zl. And on the student trail hit up Plan B for a mix
of cheap drinks and youthful debauchery.
Lads
For Sky Sports and grub then take your pick from
Champions, Warsaw Tortilla Factory, Legends and
Someplace Else. If youve cleaned up and are ready to
impress hit up Foksal street for clubs like Sketch and
Flow. If your requirements are a little more carnal read
up on our adult section and then proceed wisely. New
Orleans seems to be the spot with the most recom-
mendations.
Couples
Wine bars are on the rise in Warsaw, and Josephs
Wine and Food and Vinoteka 13 both offer the chance
to indulge in a classy glass or white or red. And if you
find tanks and sandbags sexy then Beirut is not to be
missed feel free to feed each other the delicious hum-
mus over beers.
Splurge
Paparazzis cocktails are worth the dip into your wallet,
as are the drinks at the Marriotts Panorama bar, which
offers views from the 40th floor that will cost you. If youre
dressed to impress hit up Capitol for the chance to drink
like a champagne-loving oligarch.
Night at a glance
Theres a number of ways to survive winter in Poland,
and weve tried them all; from dressing up like Eskimos to
eating loads of fat and staying home. Of all the methods
none however rewards as much as heading down the
pub. Its in these noble establishments youll find the an-
swer to the ice age, namely a pint of grzane piwo thats
hot beer to you and me. Now it might sound rancid but
give it a try. Youll get a frothing beer served piping hot
with a choice of various flavourings cloves, cinnamon,
honey, ginger and an array of fruit juices. Grzane wino
mulled wine is equally popular at this time of year and
is particularly decent when using a dry red.
Couple of things a veteran will keep their eye out for;
firstly, the distant ping of a microwave is usually a give-
away that they dont know what theyre doing behind the
scenes. You most certainly dont want your drink fried.
Secondly, ask for a mug, not a glass. Drinks lose their
temperature fast so its always best to have a mug,
preferably a sturdy clay chap. Thirdly, and a gentle prod
to any simpletons, remember your drink is going to be
scorching hot when it arrives. Gulping it down in one is
going to seriously hurt. And remember, if youre trying
this at home, never let the drink hit boiling point. Thats
disaster. If youre too scared to get creative yoursel f
then youll find ready-to-heat mulled wine on sale in off
licenses - look for Grzaniec Galicyjski. During the colder
months you will find most restaurants and bars offering
some form of hot alcohol and we cant recommend
them enough.
Hot Beer
78
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NIGHTLIFE
Hutawka Club F-3, ul. Bracka 20a, tel. (+48) 501
865 903. The 70s, New York, served as inspiration for
Hutawka, though theres more than a smidgen of shabby
Berlin chic too. Set through a gloomy courtyard, and oc-
cupying the ground level of a decaying mansion, this place
occupies the curious middle ground between an edgy dive
bar and a fashionable must visit. Featuring dangling glass
baubles and a red backlit bar theres an almost scuzzy
spirit in operation, and things get seriously incoherent
once the vodka gets ordered. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri
12:00 - 04:00, Sat 16:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00.
PAUXW
Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22 (Praga), tel. (+48)
502 07 09 16, www.hydrozagadka.waw.pl. You will not
find a more unkempt bar than Hydrozagadka; this place
looks like its been ransacked by students, and its almost
advisable to check yourself for fleas when leaving. Decora-
tions arent so much limited as virtually non-existent, and
you wont find much more than brick walls and a collection
of seats that appear to have been rescued from the rubbish.
But while it looks scruffy this has emerged as one of the
best places in town, with off-beat performances enjoyed by
a crowd that doesnt get out of bed till way after noon. QOpen
19:00 - 05:00, Thu 19:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
Sun. Open during the week when special events are being
held. PAUEXW
JPs Bar A-3, Al. Jana Pawa II 21 (The Westin Ho-
tel), tel. (+48) 22 450 86 30, www.westin.pl. An airy
hotel bar whose name is actually a reference to the bars
designer, not the wildly popular Pope John Paul II. Light
coloured furnishings come interspersed by a smattering
of house plants which look on as a well-dressed yet casual
crowd enjoys expertly poured premium drinks in the finest
of settings. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00.
PAUGW
Karmnik B-2, ul. Piwna 4a, tel. (+48) 22 468 06 64.
A modern oasis in the heart of Old Town, Karmniks curvy
stark-white space is reminiscent of a hip igloo, complete
with an array of nonsensical stickers on the wall. It stands
in welcome contrast to the neighboring historical spots,
which makes Karmnik a good place for an out-of-the-ordinary
beer while enjoying the ambient grooves pumped from the
speakers. Food like pierogi and steak tartare are perfect
for lining your stomach, making Karmnik a great all-around
night spot. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
PAGSW
Klaps C- 4, ul. Nowy wiat 22/28 (Pavilion 12a).
Peculiarities abound in the drinking maze known as The
Secret Garden, but none come close to matching Klaps in
the weirdness stakes. Theres dildos for beer taps and a wall
of plastic boobs, and like everywhere in this area, you wont
find beer costing more than 9z. Finding it is a challenge in
itself - its close to the passage that connects the courtyard
to Smolna. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00, Mon 15:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 17:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. PAX
Klubokawiarnia Chwila E-2, ul. Ogrodowa 31/35, tel.
(+48) 22 401 17 54, www.chwiladaklub.pl. This former
print shop has been transformed into one of the chillest
spaces in Warsaw - a large, open room filled with overlapping
artwork and haphazard furniture where the music allows for
conversation instead of demanding earplugs. Weve spent
a Friday night watching The Simpsons on their retractable
screen, but you can also find writers, singers or slideshows
dominating the stage. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. PAUEGW
Kwadrat F-4, ul. Poznaska 7 (entrance from ul. Wil-
cza), tel. (+48) 608 64 99 41, www.kwadrat.waw.pl.
One of our favourite finds this year, Kwadrat is a tiny little
place thats not unlike popping round a mates house - pro-
vided your mate had seven tables and a fridge full of beer. And
wow, what a fridge it is. Hiding inside it find some of the great
beers of Poland and Ukraine, including Ciechan and Obolon:
superb brews that do a lot to redress the damage caused by
the megabrand beers. Theres not much more to this place,
just a friendly welcome, cheap prices, chilled out tracks and
a hip 20s crowd usually engrossed in some board game or
other. Highly recommended, even more so if you just want
a good night with select friends. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00, Fri
16:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PAGW
La Casa Del Habano C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 7, tel. (+48)
790 30 05 99, www.lcdh.pl. Display your gentlemanly
credentials by rolling up to La Casa, a coffee coloured cigar
club that just reeks of money - and smoke. Decorated with
padded, leather armchairs and generous wood finishes
this place is the final word in luxury, with Cuban rums and
whiskies as well as a fine line in Port to compliment your
cheroot. And i f youre new to all this, dont worry about
looking like a prat - on hand are expert staff who know this
game inside out. Their suggestions and recommendations
are never less than bulls eye. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. PAXW
Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legendsbar.pl.
British owned and run, not 150 metres from the Marriott, this
is a resto-pub with a bright, clean look, four flatscreen tvs on
which you can watch SKY and Canal +, real dart board and a
cracking menu of British-style grub to soak up the Polish beer
and British ales and rarely seen spirits like Captain Morgan
dark rum. This is also one of the places that has built a new
indoor smoking room. To add that extra sports feel walls
come decorated with pictures depicting all the games the
British have invented for the rest of the world to beat them at.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PAXW
Lokal Uytkowy B-1, ul. Brzozowa 27/29, tel. (+48)
22 831 85 67, www.lokaluzytkowy.org. If you need a
reason to visit old town then Lokal Uytkowy is it. Theres
an air of theatre chic to this bar, a super venue where
stripey scarves and an intellectual scowl are a must to fit
in. Populated by artists and wannabes this is by no means
the second-hand, flea market venue youd assume, rather
a neat looking space decked with framed posters and red,
swivelly seats. But the real clincher is the beer, supplied by
Ciechan, practically the best Polish lager around. Q Open
Wed, Fri, Sat 18:30-23:00, Sun 11:00-16:00 and during
events. Check their website for schedule. AUEGW
Lorelei B-4, ul. Widok 8, tel. (+48) 605 06 67 75, www.
lorelei.pl. Its a hip, happening crowd in Lorelei, a backstreet
caf with dim red lamps, black and white comic book murals
and even some hammocks strung up in the back; good luck
getting on one if youre an ounce over stick thin status. With
nightfall this place takes on a bit more of a bar vibe, with DJs
turning up on Friday and Saturday to play soft electronic to
the citys followers of fashion. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 03:00. PAUGW
Maska C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 4/6, tel.
(+48) 22 828 08 52, www.maska.pl. Long one of our
fave restaurants (the pierogi are legendary) Maska is also
a club of some renown. Keeps things simple by playing a
good mix of music, but as the mood changes from night to
Poland hit world headlines on April 10th 2010 when a
plane carrying President Lech Kaczyski, his wife and
ninety four other passengers crashed by the city of
Smolensk killing all on board. The plane clipped trees as
it came into land, before turning upside down and plung-
ing to the ground. The president and his entourage had
been flying in to mark the 70th anniversary of the Katy
Massacre, a notorious episode in which Stalin ordered
the execution of approximately 22,000 Polish officers.
For decades Russia had denied responsibility, and only
recently had steps been taken to mend bridges.
Strangely, the tragedy served to bring these two ancient
foes closer together and many Poles, at the time, were left
impressed by the sympathetic reaction of Putin & Co. As
with all high profile disasters speculation as to the cause
continues to be rife. The official Russian air authority report
into the incident laid the blame squarely on the pilots who
they claim ignored instructions to land elsewhere because
of the poor weather conditions. They also suggested the
presence and distraction of unauthorized personnel in the
cockpit as the key to the tragedy. At first this had been
thought to have been the president himself a man who
once notoriously insisted his pilots fly against their judge-
ment and land in war torn Tbilisi though black box evidence
now points to the intrusion at members of the entourage.
While Kaczyski had been widely forecast to lose heavily
in elections due for the autumn of 2010, the episode had
wider implications. Also on board were the first lady, the
head of the national bank, leading politicians and the heads
of the army, navy and air force; at a stroke Poland lost its
political, military and economic elite. Despite Kaczyskis
unpopularity the outpouring of grief was unmatched since
the death of Pope John Paul II, and churches packed out
as mourners paid their respects. In the capital thousands
lined the streets when the bodies of Mr and Mrs Kaczyski
were returned, and for the next week the streets outside
the Presidential Palace were turned into a giant shrine as
people converged to lay flowers and light candles on April
17th alone, over 100,000 mourners gathered in Pisudski
Square to listen to a state service.
But even in death Kaczyski remained a divisive and
controversial figure. The decision to bury him in Krakws
Wawel Cathedral, the ancient resting site of monarchs
and saints, split Poles down the middle, with many
protesting the decision with the slogan Warsaw for
Presidents, Krakw for Kings. Held on April 18th 2010
the funeral was marked with a service in Krakws St
Marys Cathedral, before the coffins were transported
with military escort to the crypt of Wawel.
Since then however President Kaczynskis twin brother
and his opposition party have openly accused the current
government of negligence and relations between Poland
and Russia have been strained by what the Poles see
as a total whitewash in the report of any Russian blame.
Disaster at Smolensk
www.prezydent.pl
Born in Lodz in 1946, Daniel Libeskind has gone on to
become one of the worlds best known architects, with
projects like the Imperial War Museum in Manchester
and the Jewish Museum in Berlin to his credit. To many
though he will be familiar as the man who originally won
the contract to create the master plan for the World Trade
Center site following the 9/11 attacks.
Wrangles with other architects and developers saw
him eventuall y squeezed from that proj ect, though
closer to (his original) home Libeskind found himself in
charge of the design of Zlota 44, a landmark 192 metre
skyscraper perched between the InterContinental and
the Palace of Culture.
Looking not unlike a bendy Arab cutlass the daring
glass tower was the envisioned home of 251 luxury
apartments (including a number custom designed by
Libeskind himself), a 25 metre stainless steel swimming
pool and a top floor wooden sundeck. And in spite of an
average price of 7,000 euro per square metre interest
proved phenomenal, with packages allegedly snapped
up by stars such as ski jumping legend Adam Malysz and
former national football captain Jacek Bak.
All very well so far, only no one appeared to have a clue
about the financial crisis which was lying in ambush.
Work on the tower had originally been forecast to finish
in 2009, but construction ground to a halt. The project
became the subject of a long-running court battle over
whether it had the necessary permissions to be built and
its developer, the Orco property group, found itself in
difficult financial waters. It looked like Warsaw was going
to have a half-finished concrete epitaph to the financial
travesties of the noughties right in the heart of the city.
Fortunately all finally seems to have been resolved. After a
court decision in October 2010 allowing Orco to start build-
ing again, construction on the skyscraper has resumed.
Now scheduled to be completed 2 years behind schedule
in 2012, it appears that the financial crisis hasnt stopped
Warsaw from continuing to change beyond recognition.
Which will be welcome news to the city gods whose op-
posite numbers in Krakow saw that citys tallest building
stand half-built and empty for over thirty years with work
abandoned on the 90 metre structure the moment com-
munist Poland was plunged into economic meltdown.
Zlota 44
Courtesy of Orco Property Group
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night, check in advance: it could be Depeche Mode night,
it could be classic house. Looks expensive at first glance,
but purchasing a round of drinks is reassuringly not bank-
balance busting, though some of the ladies might well be.
QOpen 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.
PAEXW
Nowy Wspaniay wiat C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 63, tel.
(+48) 22 505 66 90, www.nowywspanialyswiat.pl. An-
other art house bar, this one with possibly the most enviable
location in the city - right on the crossroads of Nowy wiat and
witokrzyska. Theres a real Berlin swagger to this place,
and its an extravagant collection of hipsters and beatniks
youll find spread leopard-like on the sofas. Featuring lots of
colonnades and a sky blue design this place has atmosphere
by the bucket, not least at night when DJs and film screenings
draw the crowds. Its been open four minutes, but its already
safe to say a legends been born. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PAUEGW
Opium B-2, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. (+48) 609 54
26 37, www.opiumclub.pl. Find it if you can: this place
brings new meaning to the word discretion. As such it is
more for laid-back, relaxed and self-confident types than a
few other bolder and brasher nightlife venues in this city we
could mention. Dress just the right of casual and you will fit
in a treat. Perfect for couples on a night out as opposed to
singles looking for a bit of the other. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAEG
Panorama Bar & Lounge B- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie
65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 630 74 34,
www.panoramabar.pl. Warsaws highest bar - and indeed
Polands - comes whacked on the 40th floor of the Marriott,
and with prices to match the top tier location. The views
of Warsaw glimmering below are outstanding, and theyre
no longer the only reason to visit. Gone is the JR Ewing
glitz and chrome, replaced instead by a tasteful interior
consisting of flock print wallpaper, violet seating and clever
lighting. Theres no better place for Sleepless In Seattle
seduction, or a corporate chinwag. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00.
PAUEX
Paparazzi B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. (+48) 22 828
42 19, www.paparazzi.com.pl/eng. Not everyones cup of
tea perhaps, but every time we come here we always think to
ourselves they get little wrong and a lot right. Serves good
food - and the kitchen is open nearly as late as the bar most
nights (until 01:00) - good cocktails and a decent pint. And,
whisper it, but you can smoke here: in fact, it is business as
usual on the smoking front, as the whole place is a smoking
zone, apart from two small tables at the entrance. Thats why
its full when all around is empty. Top marks. QOpen 18:00 -
01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. PAEXW
Piwiarnia Warka B-4, ul. Wilcza 35/41, tel. (+48) 502
45 01 80, www.piwiarniawilcza.pl. A football shirt and
cropped hair are considered acceptable clothing in Warka,
a laddish pub with a heavy wood finish and some screens
showing sport. Seeing that the Warka brand have supplied
everything from the lager to the mirrors, its not the place to
head if you prefer something else. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00.
PAXW
Plan B F-4, Al. Wyzwolenia 18, tel. (+48) 503 11 61 54,
www.planbe.pl. Walk up a curving stairwell to enter Plan
B, a venue where the ceilings are high and the windows are
low - so low youll have to crouch for views of pl. Zbawiciela.
Plan B has seen minimal investment, with a design that must
have set the owner back the price of a packet of sausages;
decor is limited to little more than tatty posters, white tiles
and sofas with springs practically sticking out of them. But
this place has become astonishingly popular, especially with
students and other sorts who look like theyve just finished
band practice. Dont be surprised to find the party spilling
outside, with gangs of drinkers chucking frisbees and shar-
ing sneaky puffs on Moroccan cigarettes. Drunkenness is
rife and encouraged, and its only fair to note this place has
become a bit of a magnet for expat lads looking to tap up
impressionable Polish girls. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
11:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00. AXW
Pod Baryk C-2, ul. Garbarska 7, tel. (+48) 22 826
62 39, www.barylka.waw.pl. Warsaws oldest bar, alleg-
edly, and a supreme spot i f youre looking to avoid Flash
Harry and his pin-up blonde. Fitted with dark woods and
screechy chairs decorations dont go beyond beer mats
and a Kolska street sign (yep, the same Kolska youll find
the drunk tank on), and while it doesnt do anything new
its a decent enough pub in a nice corner of town. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. PAXW
Polyester Caf B-1, ul. Freta 49/51, tel. (+48) 22
831 46 36, www.polyestercafe.com. Pub, bar and cafe
that gives off the best vibes for hundreds of metres around;
no wonder it is the busiest bar on the Freta strip. Well priced
drinks get served by a top barman, and the comfy armchairs
out back are perfect for a post-anything chill out. Regularly
hosts art exhibitions and the like, and the crowd is typically
bohemian. QOpen 12:00 - 00:30, Fri 12:00 - 01:30, Sat
11:30 - 01:30, Sun 11:30 - 00:30. JAEGW
Pub Przejcie G- 4, Pl. Na Rozdrou (underground
passage under Al. Szucha), tel. (+48) 22 696 85 50,
www.pub-przejscie.pl. A dark and divey tunnel-shaped bar
found festering in the depths of a stinking subway. Hardcore
barflies and other desperados nurse cut-price beers in the
shadows, while local radio stations do their bit to drown out
their rasping ramblings. Wed guess the interior extras have
been salvaged straight from the scrap heap, with an unlikely
collection of trumpets, springy sofas and even a disco ball on
display. For all this its far from a forbidding venue, and with
Warsaw far from embracing the 24hr vibe of neighbouring
capitals any venue that can tout round-the-clock opening
hours merits attention. Q Open 24hrs. PAGW
Rabarbar B-2, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, tel. (+48) 22 828
01 30, www.rabarbar.pl. Formerly the home of celebs
desperately looking like they didnt want to be noticed
Rabarbar remains a popular haunt, only nowadays the traffic
jam at the bar consists of local suits talking shop. One of the
most enviable locations in town keeps business brisk and
this remains one of Warsaws most enduring bars, while
the opening hours keep it packed long after the local clubs
have closed. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 01:00, Sat
15:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. AGW
Saturator ul. 11 listopada 22 (Praga), tel. (+48) 515
46 42 09, www.saturator.art.pl. See your social standing
rocket by confessing knowledge of Saturator, a scruffy triple
floored artsy hangout in the battered buildings of Praga.
Do not come here if your idea of a good time is talking golf
tournaments and embassy junkets. If, however, youre the
sort of person with hangover stubble and a second hand
wardrobe then youll fit right in. Especially if you have a hat.
Nights in this wacky venue are symbolic of Pragas arthouse
renaissance, and last long into the night once DJs enter and
attempt to mix unmixable genres. QOpen 19:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. PAEXW
Jung & Lecker B-4, ul. Emilii Plater 14, tel. (+48) 22
866 67 49, www.jungilecker.pl. We loved the back garden
here, a cool courtyard space festooned with paintings and
plantlife. Good job the rest of it isnt bad either as the garden
is closed out of season. A simple, chic design that doesnt
go overboard, a wine list which is exhaustive, knowledgeable
service and an increasingly trendy location all win it points.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PAGW
Vinoteka 13 & WINE BAR C-3, ul. Krakowskie
likusconceptstore.pl. A beautiful wine bar tucked in
the basement of the Concept Restaurant. Distinctly high
class, the Vinoteka cellar houses wines from all corners
of the globe, with drinking conducted on low leather seats
scattered amid crates and casks. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00,
Sun 11:00 - 17:00. PAGW
Vintage Bistro i Winoteka B-4, ul. Emilii Plater
9/11, tel. (+48) 22 625 41 97, www.vintagewines.pl.
Wine looks the latest fad to hit town, and the retro looking
Vintage is up there with the best. The wine choice is as good
as anywhere, though it appears equally popular for the morn-
ing coffee and croissant thing. The menu too is standout,
with some lovely tapas and a smattering of mains. QOpen
10:30 - 22:00, Sat 14:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PAGW
Wine
We know that sometimes theres a match and you just
have to see it. Where to go? Well most bars with a screen
will subscribe to Canal + Sport, a channel that not only
has intensive coverage of the local sides, but also shows
English Premiership games each Saturday and Sunday.
The only downside is the droll Polish commentary rat-
tling on in the background. If you demand Sky Sports
then Warsaw has a number of decent options. All of
the following also relay the American version of football.
Plater 25, tel. (+48) 22 622 46 40, www.legends-
bar.pl. Found 150 metres from the Marriott is a British
bar, run by a Brit and with Sky and Canal+ available. Add
in a British food and ale menu and you should be sorted.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 12:00 -
02:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PAXW
SomePlace Else C- 4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton
Warsaw Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.
warszawa.someplace-else.pl. Located in the Shera-
ton, SPE has flat screens stationed around an upmarket
industrial space - even during the Sunday brunch televi-
sions did double duty showing ski races and tennis. A
great menu of American classics like burgers and steaks
along with an extravagant selection of drinks. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
PAUEGW
Warsaw Tortilla Factory F-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel.
(+48) 22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl.
With Dubliner Niall in charge WTF have a set of screens
located around the bar, beer taps on tables, a killer
Tex-Mex menu and a separate smoking room. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PAEXW
Sport on TV
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Skwer - filia Centrum Artystycznego Fabryka
Trzciny B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 60a, tel.
(+48) 508 36 58 49, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. An offshoot
of Fabryka Trzciny, though a darn sight easier to get to than
its daddy bar/club. Situated inside a weird concrete bungle
this construction looks more like a car park than bar, but dont
let that stop you from further investigations. Concerts are
frequent, and frequently excellent, while the location splat
in the middle of Krakowskie Przedmiecie means theres no
shortage of lookers to train your eyes on. QOpen 11:00 -
23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. PAUEGW
SomePlace Else C-4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw
Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.warszawa.
someplace-else.pl. Someplace Else is an expat legend,
and the comfortable open-plan space and industrial bar are
a great setting for the mix of live sports and music that can
be found here almost every night of the week. Still boasting
one of the best bar menus in the city - were fans of the Orient
Express burger - its easy to come for dinner and stay into the
night to sample from the long list of extravagant cocktails
(flaming Lamborghini, anyone?). QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEGW
The Pictures art bar cafe B-4, ul. Chmielna 26, tel.
(+48) 22 826 17 83, www.thepicturesbar.pl. Central,
shiny and new it is currently a little bit hit and miss here:
some nights its packed with cocktail-sipping trendies, at
other times it can feel like doing solitary. We like it though,
not least the smart service and crafty cocktail list, simple
but good and well priced food, and the original art on the
walls: no reproductions here. Particularly pleasant as a cafe
during the day. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00.
PAEGSW
Warsaw Tortilla Factory F-3, ul. Wilcza 46, tel. (+48)
22 621 86 22, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl. This long-
established Tex-Mex bar is one of the go-to hangouts for ex-pats,
thanks in part to the Irish owner Niall, though discerning the vari-
ous accents becomes harder with every margarita and Corona
that goes missing. Once youre inside theres something for
everyone: Sky Sports on the TV, live music on weekends, a decent
pint of Murphys and 10zl tacos if youre lucky enough to show up
on a Thursday. The global crowd is easy to mix with and accepting
of outsiders, especially when they buy the tequila shots. Added
bonus: the separate smoking room will save you a trip outside.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PAEXW
Warszawa Powile G-2, ul. Kruczkowskiego 3b, tel.
(+48) 22 474 40 84, www.powisle.blog.pl. Set in a former
ticket hall this PRL-era concrete rotunda proved one of the
hits of last summer, and a bit of a gathering ground for those
enjoying post-Luztro fix-me-ups. Interiors here are all cheap
and chipboard - tables included - and while it looks tatty and
torn its become a HQ of sorts for hardcore clubbers hiding their
horror behind reflective specs. How to find it? Walk down the
platform on Powile Station, then hang a right down the stairs.
QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. PAUGW
W Oparach Absurdu (In The Mists of Absurdity) H-1,
ul. Zbkowska 6, tel. (+48) 660 78 03 19, www.oparyab-
surdu.pl. Practically across the street from fellow Praga bar Po
Drugiej Stronie Lustra, the two distinct locations could have a
weird-off and easily end in a draw. Both favour twinkle lights,
flea market knick-knacks and crap furniture, though Absurdu
has embraced colour, and bright murals, to set it apart. Absurdu
is spread over numerous rickety levels and populated by local
bohemians who crave live music and strong drinks. A small
menu of snacks and Polish staples (yep, pierogis) are available
to line your stomach. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. PAUEXW
ZaktekB-4, ul. Chmielna 5, tel. (+48) 502 22 40 06. Tucked
away in a courtyard set back from the pedestrian thoroughfare of
Chmielna, this atmospheric place is faintly redolent of a Krakw liquor
den with educated whisperings, and a vaguely surreal, gentle quality
attributed to a smattering of antiques, cushions and low-key tunes.
QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00. G
Zielona G (Green Goose) F-5, Al. Niepodlegoci
177, tel. (+48) 22 825 20 26, www.zielonages.pl. Many
profess the Green Goose to be their favourite pub, and its little
surprise. Although a routine-looking Polish bar, with wood cut-
ter furnishings, solid benches and token promotional bumph
supplied by breweries, the atmosphere positively sizzles in the
evenings when crowds of students mob the bar and drink their
memories of the week away. Wednesday, Thursday, Friday
and Saturday are set aside for karaoke, presenting the ideal
opportunity to make a prat of yourself in front of all and sundry.
QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 10:00 - 05:00,
Sun 10:00 - 01:00. PABXW
NEW
Znajomi Znajomych C-4, ul. Wilcza 58a, tel. (+48)
22 628 20 61, www.znajomiznajomych.waw.pl. With two
levels and a strange arrangement of rooms newcomer Zna Zna
can feel as if youre wandering through an M.C. Escher drawing.
Heres a primer: the first floor features a large smoking room and
several adjacent rooms with seating, and the main floor has a
bar with DJ/dance floor - - we saw a keytar being played - - and
more labyrinthine seating areas. The pile of taxis outside should
tell you this is currently one of Warsaws favourite places, with
huddles of hipsters and interpretive dancers sharing space
and spilling drinks together. Theres even a respectable menu
of pasta and pizza thats available into the weekend wee hours
to soak up the booze. Recommended. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00. PAXW
Sense C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 19, tel. (+48) 22 826
65 70, www.sensecafe.com. What was once a classic
Warsaw hotspot is now sliding past its prime, with early-
00s dcor and the inabili ty to draw the gli tterati that
once considered Sense their headquarters. That said,
the suits still clamber for the bars well-made cocktails,
which the friendly bartenders will tailor to your speci fic
tastes with just the suggestion of your favorite flavours.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00
- 21:00. PAGW
Sheesha Lounge B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 3, tel. (+48)
22 828 25 25, www.sheesha.pl. Not your average War-
saw hangout, Sheesha forgoes the mainstream dance hits
favoured by the competition to bring a slice of the orient
to your doorstep. The DJs play jangly rhythms as an oc-
casional belly dancer floats past tables filled with sheesha-
smoking Varsovians. The crowd, which seems to span all age
groups, is reliably fun and relaxed. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00,
Fri 12:00 - 05:00, Sat 16:00 - 05:00, Sun 16:00 - 03:00.
PAEXW
Sketch C-3, ul. Foksal 19, tel. (+48) 602 76 27 64,
www.sketch.pl. Sketch is something of a Warsaw classic.
Set in a hospital white hall the magnet here is the beer,
namely the best selection youll find in the city. There are
about 130 to pick from, and these range from gourmet
Belgian to banana stuff from Ghana. The heavy import duty
has been directly handed down to the customer, with some
bottles selling for a wincing 25z, though youll find these
prices offset by calming lounge sounds and soothing lights
that glow from vertical columns. A smashing night, and one
which doesnt end until youre exactly that. QOpen 12:00 -
01:00. PAEGW
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Enklawa B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 12, tel. (+48) 22 827 31
51, www.enklawa.com. This is where a young, elite crowd
head to the moment the doors close at Paparazzi. Find pin
slim girls and office wizzkids trotting down the red carpet in
the entrance, before opting to drink within an inch of Hades
inside a two level interior of stone cladding and suspended
steel tubing. The musical menu suits the bevvied-up out-of-
sync dance moves practiced by the guests, with music ranging
from 70s, 80s and 90s classics to chart hits getting airplay
throughout the week. Prices are reasonable too: Tuesdays and
Wednesdays entrance is 10zl, while Fridays and Saturdays
are 15z. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PAX
Fabryka Trzciny ul. Otwocka 14 (Praga Pnoc), tel.
(+48) 22 619 05 13, www.fabrykatrzciny.pl. Housed in a
battered factory building this spot has the scummy charisma
of Berlin, mid 90s. Brick wall, dials and pipes have been
left exposed, with leather sofas and red emergency lamps
sprinkled at random intervals. Edgy artwork and experimen-
tal sounds complete the concoction. Not open daily, but youll
usually find special events going off each weekend and this
has emerged as one of the most popular haunts for private
fuctions, catwalk shows and launch parties. Q Open during
events only. PAUEGW
Hunters Club B-3, ul. Jasna 1, tel. (+48) 502 37 98 97,
www.huntersclub.pl. Occupying the central city location
that once housed Warsaws premier (if not best) gay club
Utopia, Hunters take the same subterranean space and adds
a vague hunting theme (see murals of deer holding hunting
rifles) the sub-text being that this is a place to come hunting
for company. The crowd is a mix of the old crowd and new
giving the place a definite gay-friendly feel while the music
comes courtesy of a raised DJ booth playing some top tunes
from the last four decades. Friendly staff work bars set over
a series of connected, dark coloured rooms which pack out
at weekends with a relaxed bunch while a VIP room with a
velvet rope sits out back. The door police here in its previous
incarnation had a reputation for being incredibly strict and not
particularly polite. That doesnt seem to be the case now as
we were hardly dressed to the nines though the presence of
a velvet rope (sitting unused when we were there) suggests
they expect to be popular. Q Open Thr, Fri, Sat only, 22:00-
06:00. PAXW
Klub Karmel B-3, ul. Kredytowa 6, tel. (+48) 728 87
73 00, www.klubkarmel.pl. Bling is king in Karmel, a
champagne club which gathers the beautiful and the damned
inside a gorgeous set of rooms featuring a zebra print bar,
leather seating and clever lighting. The cocktails dont disap-
point, and neither do the electro-inspired dance jiggles pulled
by Warsaws social elite. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Wed, Sun. AXW
Clubs
1500m2 do wynajcia H-3, ul. Solec 18/20, tel.
(+48) 22 628 84 12, www.1500m2.com. Enormous,
as in 1,500 square metres enormous, though stri ctl y
speaking still very much the whispered meeting point of
those In The Know. Theres plenty of abandoned industrial
space in Warsaw, and places like this are finally utilizing it.
Its hard to define 1500m2, and depending on the event
youll find it functioning as either a bar, club, concert venue
or gallery - sometimes all four. The interiors have seen it all,
from a Valentines Fetish Ball to the Prodigy Afterparty; this
warehouse style thing has hosted some of the edgiest
nights in town, so no wonder then some scene people are
touting it as the hippest haunt in the city. QOpen 22:00 -
05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Open during the
week when special events are being held. Check Facebook
for details. AEXW
Bank Club B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 14, tel. (+48) 22 468
85 10, www.bankclub.pl. Oh yes. A hit from day one this is
Warsaws latest bar and club of choice. We are no experts in
running a club (if we were we would own a chain of them) but
we know that whatever that certain something is which clubs
have to posses to be good, then Bank has it in abundance.
Smooth sounds, tastefully elegant decor and refreshingly
little kitsch. It is also a lovely building. With a well-aired smok-
ing section and drinks at a reasonable price its not only for
bankers, either. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. PAUXW
Bollywood Lounge B-3, ul. Przeskok 2, tel. (+48)
22 827 02 83, www.bollywoodlounge.pl. A weird and
horrid location, youll find Bollywood sitting inside a nasty
pre-fab building overlooking kebab shops and potholed
roads but dont be put off because while it promises little
it delivers plenty. Growing in popularity as the night moves
on, its all sequinned eastern drapes, scented water pipes,
low-slung armchairs and projection screens beaming out
Indian cinema hits. The staff with a few exceptions are
Indian, friendly and clearly know how to throw a party and
the mix of crowd sees Sikhs partying away alongside Pol-
ish blondies to the sounds of Bhangra and disco. Poland
is often perceived to be not particularly cosmopolitan and
rather conservative. Bollywood kicks that perception right
out of the park. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:00,
Sat 14:00 - 04:00. PAXW
Club Capitol B-2, ul. Marszakowska 115, tel.
(+48) 608 08 96 71, www.clubcapitol.pl. Gl obal
recession you say? Nobody tol d the chaps at Capi tol, a
jaw dropper of a venue whose opening confirms north
Warsaws status as the of fi cial party part of the ci ty.
Fill ed wi th post-socialist bling this venue is immense,
and has seen the contents of an oli garchs deposi t box
thrown into a zap, pow, you di dn t expect that interior. A
pneumatic set of breasts should be enough to guarantee
girls entry, while boys should consider adding an arrogant
l ope to their step and some desi gner horses to their
clothes. And the promoters havent been slouches either,
having so far secured the appearance of several club
circui t l egends. Theres no set opening hours, though i ts
safe enough to assume that i f i ts a weekend i ts open.
QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Cl osed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.
Admission 10z. PAXW
Club Mirage B-4, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance from ul. Emi-
lii Plater), tel. (+48) 22 620 14 54, www.clubmirage.
pl. A totally unique experience, this is a club like no other
in Warsaw. Not because its anything particularly special,
but because it is set in the bowels of the monstrous Palace
of Science and Culture. Descend the stairs through the
entrance facing the central railway station into a mass of
writhing young bodies getting down around the centrepiece
fountain. Once youve done there, retreat to the long bar
and lounge area to relax before heading back out into the
surprisingly unpretentious party crowd. The coat check
looked after by moustachioed men in their 50s gives a small
hint of the days when this place must have been frequented
by the great and not so good of communist Poland. QOpen
21:00 - 05:00, Wed, Thu 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Sun. PAEX
Dekada E- 4, ul. Grjecka 19/25, tel. (+48) 22
823 55 58, www.dekada.pl. Adventures and amorous
encounters come guaranteed i n thi s sl i ce of Warsaw
fol kl ore, a di rect resul t of the peopl e found i nsi de.
Here i ts al l 007 Barbi e bombshel l s soaki ng up atten-
ti on of f expats twi ce thei r age, an i nteresti ng mi x that
combi nes for col our ful ni ghts. Watch the pantomi me
whi l e si tti ng i nsi de a 1950s tram, or el se take your
chances on a dance fl oor that packs out most ni ghts -
the musi cal menu changes dail y, wi th weekends tending
to err towards di sco and chart sounds. Youl l pay for
the pri vi l ege of course: Fri days and Saturdays women
fork over 20zl and men 25zl , whi l e on Wednesdays
and Thursdays women get i n free whi l e men pay 10zl.
QOpen 20:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Cl osed
Mon, Tue, Sun. PAEXW
de lite club C- 4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6, www.
deliteclub.com. Hot-pink newcomer De Lite already has
a crush of visitors wedging themselves on the dance floor
and around the backlit bar. A giant screen projects images
on the wall of the dance floor as DJs spin, while the elite can
retreat to a plush VIP area filled with couches and pillows
for winding down away from the masses. And yes, thats an
umbrella in your cocktail. The quintessential club experience
in Warsaw. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
Thu, Sun. PAXW
Dobranocka C-3, ul. Smolna 40, tel. (+48) 510 09
04 84. Every so often we come across a venue we like
so much that we consider - just for a moment! - keeping
it a secret. That urge bubbled up as soon as we entered
Dobranocka, a meandering smoky basement bar and club
that has the ideal mix of lounging hipsters and alcohol-
infused, DJ-supported dancing to put a stop to your bar
hopping for the night. Theres no extras here: only a scant
few beers on tap, mismatched seating and hit-or-miss
toilet paper, but it all adds up to great hole-in-the-wall kind
of drunken night out. QOpen 16:00 - 00:30, Thu, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 04:00. AEXW
Gwiazdeczka Jazz Zone B-2, ul. Piwna 40, tel.
(+48) 22 887 87 64, www.jazzzone.pl. Spotless
whitewashed archways and vaulted ceilings are cheered
up by trimmed shrubs and aglass covered atrium. Very
striking. Live performances most evenings. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. PAEGW
Metro Jazz Bar & Bistro F-3, ul. Marszakowska
99a (Metropol Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 325 31 06,
www.hotelmetropol.com.pl. Bathed in a soothing for-
est green glow this is a classic jazz bar where aesthetic
shortcomings are brushed over with a pot of atmosphere.
Take to one of the swivelly barside stools to knock back
the barmans creations while taking in nightly jazz perfor-
mances that fluctuate hugely in both style and volume.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAUEGW
Pikna Bistro G-4, ul. Pikna 20, tel. (+48) 22 627
41 51, www.jazzzone.pl. Bright, modern, airy. Pikna
Bistro is everything you dont expect of a jazz bar, with a
smart-casual set of customers picking at food inside an
attractive interior that could have come from a catalogue.
The live performances are excellent, and better still, never
loud enough to completely sink conversation. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PAUEGW
Tygmont B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 6/8, tel. (+48) 22
828 34 09, www.tygmont.com.pl. Live music venues
are thin on the ground in Warsaw, so the existence of
Tygmont isnt just good news, its great. That it proves a
bit of a revelation is even better. Touting the atmosphere
of a prohibition speakeasy Tygmont has a dark, smoky
look, and a musical menu that extends way beyond just
mainstream jazz. Be aware that disco and pop dance
nights rule the roost when there isnt a scheduled jazz
show, however. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu 14:00
- 01:00, Fri 14:00 - 03:00, Sat 19:00 - 03:00, Sun 19:00
- 01:00. PAEGW
Jazz
Bierhalle D-1, Al. Jana Pawa II 82 (Arkadia), tel.
(+48) 601 67 79 62, www.bierhalle.pl. An industrial
motif prevails in Bierhalle, with giant, tailor-made brewing
vats, brickwork and pipes springing from every corner.
The beer is brewed on-site, and presented in frothy
steins by wenches squeezed into peasant bodices. Our
favourite is the pils, and it tastes even better when you
ask for a dash of caramel to be added to your brew.
Domestic sad cases rejoice, bottles, barrels even, of
beer are available for takeaway. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. PAUGW
BrowArmia B-3, ul. Krlewska 1, tel. (+48) 22
826 54 55, www.browarmia.pl. Warsaws other
microbrewery tends to live in the shadow of the more
famous Bierhalle, and though it fails to share the lively
atmosphere of its rival Browarmia is by no means second
best. Theres a decent design here, with all the requisite
pipes, dials and tanks on display, as well as a good
menu that trounces the competition. More importantly
the beer is top standard and all, and best imbibed on a
seasonal terrace looking onto the revamped Krakowskie
Przedmiescie. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAEXW
Microbreweries
86
NIGHTLIFE
87
NIGHTLIFE
Klub Savoy Hotel C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 58, tel. (+48)
602 26 00 10, www.savoyhotel.pl. Klub Savoy Hotels
latest renovation has unfortunately disposed of the quirky
bathroom features while the main room has succumbed
to the huge trend in brightly coloured sticker wall art. The
place is still quite dark thanks to dim chandeliers and black
furnishings as i f it all came from a club dcor kit. These
clichd touches dont deter patrons, however, as the place
gets busy around happy hour with post-work unwinding
and stays crowded into the night. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
PAXW
Lemon Club B-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 6, tel. (+48) 22 829
55 44, www.cafelemon.pl. Ignore previous dispatches
about grumpy door staff and head to this lively venue that
offers something a bit di fferent every night of the week.
I f its not live music (of all descriptions) or performance
art or an exhibition then its disco night, as a DJ spins the
1980s sounds and men of a certain age come over all
unnecessary. Drinks are well priced, and the ground floor
cafe - open 24hrs as opposed to the set hours of the bar
- is a good kick-off venue. QOpen 20:30 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
20:30 - 05:00. PAXW
Luztro C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 6, www.luztro.pl. Nights
are insane in Luztro, a dark, dirty club which doesnt get go-
ing till at least about three. This is Warsaws premier space
for blippy minimal and electro sounds, and something of a
byword in voluntary brain damage. Nights here are legend,
especially the weekend after party which really kicks off
after all the other clubs have closed - just watch in awe as
every freak in Poland gathers to get up to seriously naughty
mischief. Bacchanal behaviour is encouraged and expected,
just make sure to sketch in ample time for recovery. QOpen
23:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 24:00 - 12:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Sun. PAX
Mono Bar B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 11a, tel. (+48) 22
827 45 57, www.monobar.pl. Decorated with a Clock-
work Orange era design Mono Bar comes dolled up in pea
green and carrot shades, with big circles imprinted on the
walls, and retro sofas that wouldnt be out of place in a
70s council flat. The crowds cool and sure knows how
to party. Disco, funk and house from the decks. QOpen
21:00 - 04:00, Thu 21:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed,
Sun. PAEG
Opera B-2, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22 828 70 75,
www.operaclub.pl. A no-expense spared design master-
piece found in the basement of the National Opera. Descend
the curving stairwell and all youll see is boys with attitude,
dressed in collars up polo shirts, and a heart-stopping spread
of gazelle like girls. If you were wondering where the good
lookers went, youve found the answer. Tread down wood
boards and through vaulted tunnels to reach the main arena,
checking out the numerous side rooms on the way; this place
was formerly known as Bedroom, and thats because of the
alcoves found shooting off in every direction. Each comes
decorated with poufs, loungers and Persian drapes, and
serve as a great spot to enjoy illicit activities. QOpen 22:00
- 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PAEXW
Palladium A-4, ul. Zota 9, tel. (+48) 22 822 87 02,
www.palladium.art.pl. Long regarded as one of the best - if
the not the best - live music venues in the country, Palladium
is a former cinema that continues to attract top local bands
who seem to love the noise and the atmosphere a good
crowd at this place can create. In fact, you might often find
a top international act playing here too. Check their website
for listings. Q Open during events only. AEXW
Centuries of hardcore Catholicism matched with provincial
attitudes have conspired to create an atmosphere where
homosexuality is still regarded as morally incorrect by
much of the population. Warsaw does however offer far
more tolerance and understanding; 2010 saw several
thousand people march in Warsaw in the first EuroPride
event to be held in Central or Eastern Europe. That said
the local government received a petition with over 50,000
signatures demanding the parade itself be cancelled.
In the past both the former prime minister, Jarosaw
Kaczyski, and his late twin, President Lech Kaczynski
stirred discontent; the latter by proclaiming homosexual-
ity as unnatural and the former for stating homosexuals
should be banned from teaching posts. Harsh senti-
ments, but not nearly as malignant as the ones voiced
by LPR politician Wojciech Wierzejski whose memorable
rants reasoned gays should be bludgeoned they are
all paedophiles and members of the mafia.
Yet inroads into bigotry are being made. In 2004 Poland
had its first gay wedding (not officially recognized), and the
following year Warsaws public transport body became
the first company to officially acknowledge homosexual
relationships by giving gay employees and their partners
the right to free transport. Although Warsaw, as yet, offers
no natural centre for the gay community this cant be taken
as a sign of something more sinister - even the straight
scene struggles to boast any area that can be regarded
as a true nightlife hub such as Barcelonas Las Ramblas.
While public demonstrations of affection are at best tol-
erated, at worst dangerous, the city offers numerous gay
friendly venues; whether they be the trendy Midzy Nami
caf (C-4, ul. Bracka 20), the expat Tex-Mex favourite
the Warsaw Tortilla Factory (B-4, ul. Wilcza 46) or full on
techno hangouts like Luztro (C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 6). For
gays in Poland the road ahead remains a long one, but
for a country that still listed homosexuality as a disease
up until 1991 the nation has already started cautiously
edging forward. For further info on gay li fe in Poland
click to the English-language website www.gayguide.net.
Fantom C-4, ul. Bracka 20a (entrance through the
courtyard), tel. (+48) 22 828 54 09, www.fantom-
warsaw.com. The oldest existing gay venue in Warsaw
can be found down a dark courtyard on Bracka occupy-
ing the basement of a pre-war palace. Two separate
entrances here. Ring the buzzer on the right hand side
of the building and descend the stairs to access their
sauna. On entry youll be handed a pair of nasty flip-flops
and a threadbare towel. Inside find a bar area, and a long
corridor that leads to a scummy looking jacuzzi, dark room
and sauna. It might be getting murky, but this is definitely
the choice of sauna for many of the capitals queers. The
left hand entrance leads to a more fully-clothed area with
a popular bar, a couple of cinema screens and a labyrinth.
QOpen 14:00 - 02:00, Fri 14:00 - 05:00, Sat 16:00 -
05:00, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. PADXW
Queer B-1, Rynek Starego Miasta 1/3, tel. (+48)
22 635 57 40, www.queer.com.pl. A high octane gay
club with a glam, 70s style featuring lots of poodle pink
colours, heart shaped cushions and revolving disco balls.
The crowd is predominantly young, male and heavily
scented, displaying a studied commitment to looking like
GQ models. These guys take themselves seriously, so
dont expect beer bellies and karaoke. QOpen 18:00 -
01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. PAXW
Gay Warsaw
Platinium Club B-2, ul. Fredry 6, tel. (+48) 22 596 46
66, www.platiniumclub.pl. Status is everything in Warsaw,
and youll be awarded plenty of it if you can wheedle past
the gatekeepers at Platinium. Door policy is stringent here,
mercilessly culling the beasts from the beautiful, thus ensur-
ing everyone inside is either rich or beautiful - sometimes
both. Regarded as Warsaws finest club this place, set inside
a historic former bank, has seen plenty of money spent, with
a design that includes marble columns, chandeliers and glow-
ing floors. This is champagne living, Warsaw style, meaning
hot sounds from the DJ decks and a riotous party that goes
way, way late. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 08:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAUEX
Powikszenie G-2, ul. Nowy wiat 27, tel. (+48) 22
826 00 69, www.klubpowiekszenie.pl. Run by the same
folks who operate popular Plan B, Powikszenie differentiates
itself by operating as a cafe during the day and mixing in film
screenings, bands and CD release parties to ensure no night
is ever the same. The space recently underwent an overhaul
that involved sprucing up the floors, decluttering the furniture
and painting the walls a stark white on the main floor, while
the basement club is still a smoky black dungeon for gyra-
tion. Note that entrance fees apply when theres a special
event. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00, Sun
17:00 - 03:00. PAEXW
Rich & Pretty Club & Cocktail Bar B-3, ul. Mazow-
iecka 12, tel. (+48) 666 49 86 66. More than just a silly
name, Rich and Pretty hopes the title will draw the described
clientele. Sure theyve got the velvet ropes in place to keep
out the poor and ugly, but getting in is a breeze and were
not sure you need to dress to impress at this split level bar/
club with DJ, dance area and giant bar. Worth a look if the
talent in nearby Paparazzi is waning, but so far wed say its
middle-class and semi-attractive. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PAUX
Space Club D- 3, ul. Kolejowa 37/39, tel. (+48)
600 44 56 56, www.spaceclub.pl. Warsaws fi rst
bona fide super club looks to have taken its inspiration
straight from the Balearics. Here its all dazzly lights, low
banquettes and excellent acoustics to compliment the big
name DJs, while the setting, bang inside a former metal
factory, provides an excellent backdrop for the hands-in-
the-air masses. QOpen 22:30 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue,
Thu, Sun. PAXW
The Eve Music Club B-3, Pl. Pisudskiego 9, tel. (+48)
604 14 54 62, www.theeve.pl. Run by the same team
behind Platinium, so expect a strict door cull to separate
the peasants from the players. Aimed at the rich and mighty
this design masterstroke scores points for a varied music
policy, and looks like flavour of the month among a playboy
set convinced theyre destined for celebrity - the VIP room
is like a scene from Caligula, with gleeful expats shooting
champagne over each other. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Sun. PAUEXW
Underground Music Cafe B-3, ul. Marszakowska
126/134, tel. (+48) 22 826 70 48, www.under.pl. With
Ground Zero history the Underground club has emerged as
the top cattle market in town, and heaves with crowds of
zitty boys, faces stinging from cheap, knockoff aftershave.
The testosterone level goes off the page here, as lads
swagger and sway in drunken competition for the sunbed
fried tart of their dreams. Great for beer monsters and a
good laugh, all complimented by a design that might have
looked futuristic twenty years back. QOpen 13:00 - 05:00,
Sun 18:00 - 05:00. PAG
Whil e Nowy wiat is best known for i ts gli tzy bars
and flashy restaurants more intrepid explorers will
be familiar with it for contradictory reasons; Warsaws
cheapest booze. Step into the courtyard at number
22 and youll find yoursel f summoned into a shadowy
demi monde of dark, divey bars where beer retails
for as little 5z.
Occupyi ng a rat-l i ke maze of l ow-l evel prefab bl ocks
are a seri es of super bars squi rrel ed amongst
crappy stores sel l i ng pet food and second hand
i roni ng boards. Known to some as The Pavi l i ons,
to others as The Secret Garden, thi s col l ecti on
of bi zarre bars represents Warsaw dri nki ng i n i ts
rawest form. Accessed through mesh gri l l door-
ways most remai n namel ess, wi th openi ng hours
general l y l ef t to the di screti on of the owners.
Essenti al l y popul ated by students, ar ti sts and
peopl e who aspi re to work i n musi c al l these bars
come bathed i n darkness wi th dri nkers squeezed
i n l i ke sardi nes on budget furni ture di sgui sed wi th
drapes and darkness.
Coupl e of pl aces to keep an eye out for: Koci arni a,
cl oaked i n a di m-red gl ow wi th al l the atmosphere
of a l ow-rent brothel and Kl aps, a real oddi ty wi th
sex ai ds as beer pumps and pl asti c boobs on the
wal l s are favouri tes. The very anti thesi s of what
Nowy wi at i s about, thi s i s a pi ece of Warsaw not
to be mi ssed. Check thei r websi te at pawi l ony.org
The Secret Garden
Bar Warszawa B-2, ul. Miodowa 2, tel. (+48) 504 32
04 97, www.barwarszawa.pl. Slightly hipper than your
traditional late-night establishment thanks to its location
off Krakowskie Przedmiecie, Bar Warszawa still has the
ridiculously cheap Polish food and grumpy employees to
make your dining experience authentic. The only menu is
the one posted behind the bar - which is where you order
- - and its not in English, but its easy to mime an order for
a 4z beer and 8z soup for the annoyed bartender (when
she isnt outside smoking). The best part: theyre open 24
hours, and theres no better hangover cure than their steam-
ing flaczki and an unpasteurized local beer. Q Open 24hrs.
Fenicja B-3, ul. witokrzyska 32, tel. (+48) 510
75 97 95, www.fenicja.com. Fenicja is the perfect
post-club kebab spot thanks to their 24-hour window,
which serves the same quality the Lebanese sit-down
side offers, but in grab-and-go format. Q Open 24hrs.
TAUVXSW
Meta C-3, ul. Foksal 21, tel. (+48) 22 826 45 13,
www.metanafoksal.pl. Love it - decorated with old
vinyl, newspaper clippings and propaganda posters this
eat-on-the-run venue unites Capitalist Warsaw with the
PRL pig of the past. Its a great concept, though even
better are the prices. Snacks weigh in at nine zoty, and
a shot of voddie at five, and these factors (plus night owl
open hours) make it a favourite with a lubricated crowd
of late night carousers. Put simply this place is Przekski
Zakski taken to the next level, a very high one at that.
QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. PAG
Late Night Eats
88
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
89
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
Adult entertainment
Coyote Bar & Night Club B-3, ul. Mazowiecka 6/8,
tel. (+48) 505 46 90 56, www.coyotebar.eu. On the new
Street of Sin that is ul. Mazowiecka, Coyote Club is an adult
entertainment establishment of the girls in their underwear
which leaves little to the imagination will dance for you vari-
ety. Drinks (the beers at least) are not as outrageously priced
as in other similar places and we have to say that the girls we
bumped into when we popped in for a quick one were sirens.
QOpen 21:00 - 03:00, Sun 21:00 - 01:00. PAUXW
Kokomo B- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie 53 (entrance from
ul.Pankiewicza 4), tel. (+48) 22 356 20 16, www.
kokomo.com.pl. One of the most central strip bars in
Warsaw, though dont let that stop you taking advantage
of the Kokomo limo service. From there on in its your eyes
that will be doing all the work as they pinball around their
sockets focusing on the troupe of pin-up bunnies. Two rooms
to choose from, as well as a well-stocked drink bar serving
all the concoctions necessary to complete your preview of
heaven. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Admission: 50z PAG
New Orleans Gentlemens Club B-3, ul. Zgoda 11,
tel. (+48) 22 826 48 31, www.neworleans.pl. From Mon-
day to Thursday youll find the girls kitted out in evening dress,
with a higher-class of punter choosing the girl of his dreams
before sitting down to a good, intelligent natter. Of course,
this being a strip club, the removal of the aforementioned
evening dress is also an available option. At weekends youll
find New Orleans reverting to the more standard formula,
with girls tottering around in next to nothing, and offering the
usual hip-grinding action. Now added, a night restaurant
with an erotic menu featuring oysters, lobster and Argie
steak. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. PAUXW
Those who vi si ted Warsaw i n the ni neti es and around
the turn of the century may have l i ngeri ng memori es
of a seri ousl y mucky ci ty. Wi th an esti mated 1,500
brothels in operati on the ci ty established a reputati on
as a desti nati on for hai r pal med perverts. Then al ong
came the l ate Lech Kaczynski as Mayor of Warsaw
who became an one man anti -sl eaze machi ne dri ven
by a zeal ous desi re to restore Warsaws l ost i nno-
cence. Whi l e he never ful l y succeeded i n cl eansi ng
Warsaw of the brothel s and the fl yers Kaczynskis
crusade had a stri ki ng i mpact.
One of the resul ts of thi s campai gn i s that Warsaw
now of fers a col l ecti on of seemi ngl y l egi ti mate and
on the whol e, fai rl y presentabl e Gentl emens Cl ubs.
Brothel s sti l l exi st but not i n the huge numbers
that they once di d. Al though there i s no speci fi c
red l i ght di stri ct youl l fi nd a smal l concentrati on of
brothel s around al. Jerozol i mski e, ul. Wi l cza and ul.
Nowogrodzka. Theyre si mpl e enough to fi nd, j ust l ook
for the fl yers pinned to car windscreens or cl ogging up
the gutters. Don t expect Engl i sh to be spoken, and
don t reckon on bei ng greeted by the si rens pi ctured
on the aforementi oned fl yers.
Now, i n the ol d days wed use thi s poi nt to fi re some
recommendati ons your way. Legal factors now make
that a fool hardy path to pursue, so i nstead we advi se
prospecti ve punters to vi si t the Pol i sh forums on
www.i nternati onal sexgui de.com, where the message
boards are al i ve wi th the l atest despatches from the
frontline, as well as pics and maps from the more com-
mi tted posters. For i ndependent gi rl s check websi tes
such as www.odl oty.pl and www.sexatl as.pl, where
youll find a choi ce of li terall y hundreds upon hundreds
of fei sty Pol i sh gi rl s promi si ng a l i vel y ti me. Your thi rd
choi ce i s to si mpl y put your fai th i n a taxi dri ver. More
often than not thi s wi l l i nvol ve bei ng dri ven to the
suburbs and to whi chever brothel i s gi vi ng the cabbi e
a ki ckback. Pri ces i n these hi gh end establ i shments
will tend to start at 200zl, though don t be tri cked i nto
buyi ng champers for the l ady unl ess youre sure you
can af ford i t. Si mil arl y, greenhorns shoul d watch thei r
wal l et i n stri p cl ubs - bi l l s easi l y spi ral, even more so
when the dri nks start bei ng poured.
Scumbag, fl y-by-ni ght brothel s sti l l exi st; STDs are a
fact of the trade, and don t thi nk for one j i f fy youre
beyond reproach. Do not assume ei ther that the
Barbi e of your choi ce i s on the game because she
enj oys rol l i ng around wi th agi ng bal di es. Pol and
has an appal l i ng record where human traf fi cki ng i s
concerned, and i ts safe to assume a fai r few l adi es
staf fi ng such venues have been coerced i nto thei r
career. Fi nal l y, the venues l i sted here are general l y
central and establ i shed but pl ease be warned that i n
recent months weve had a report of 8,000zl bei ng
spent wi l l i ngl y i n one cl ub l i sted here and another of
8,000 sterl i ng bei ng spent unwi l l i ngl y i n one whi ch i s
not l i sted here. I n the second case hal f of the money
was retri eved from the bank because of payment
i rregul ari ti es but be on your guard.
Vice advice Sofia F- 4, ul. Polna 13, tel. (+48) 22 224 25 24,
www.klubsofia.pl. A l egend i n nineti es and noughti es
Warsaw, there was a time no sel f-respecting mal e coul d
l eave Warsaw wi thout having first visi ted Sofia. Those
days may have gone and so i t seemed had Sofia. But i t
appears not wi th the opening of this place, three years
after the ori ginal cl osed, j ust down from Pl. Zbawi ci ela
whi ch boasts a modern spacious club area and a host
of minimall y dressed women. In the wil d days of nine-
ti es Warsaw this was known in l ocal parlance as The
Bul garian Embassy. I tll be interesting to see i f i t li ves
up to the reputation i t buil t then. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00.
Cl osed Sun. PAX
Vegas Gentlemens Club B- 4, ul. Hoa 35, tel.
(+48) 22 696 82 06, www.vegasclub.pl. One of War-
saws newest strip club, and according to some, its best.
Its certainly the most exclusive. Guests tread down a red
carpet before slipping past a face check that isnt keen
on drunken oafs. One armed bandits, Roman pillars, pink
seats and splashes of neon add the Vegas effect, but
the real reason youre here are the girls - ten out of ten,
frankly. Its 50 zoty to get in, then 100z for each dance,
and i f you really want to impress then why not shell out
on their premium champagne: a snip at 28,000z. QOpen
21:00 - 04:00. PAXW
90
91
HISTORY HISTORY
Earl y for ti fi ed settl ements
are believed to have existed
in what is now the district of
Brodo as far back as the 9
th

century, and while historians
st r uggl e t o concl usi vel y
agree as to exactl y when
Warsaw was founded most
appear to accept that the
first recorded mention of the
ci ty can be traced to 1313.
Things started looking up for
the ci ty i n 1413, when the
ruling Dukes decided to shi ft
the capital of Mazovia from Czersk to Warsaw. Over the next
century it gathered importance as a trading point, and was
incorporated into the Kingdom of Poland in 1526. The town
was expanding in both status and stature, though nothing was
to prepare it for the bombshell that arrived in 1569. The Union
of Lublin amalgamated Poland with Lithuania, and as such the
decision was taken to centralize parliament and move it from
Krakw to Warsaw. Twenty seven years later, in 1596, King
Zygmunt III Vasa decided to follow suit and shifted his Royal
Court north as well, thereby making Warsaw capital of this
newly-formed commonwealth. Of course, Warsaw then was
a different creature to the Warsaw of now. The old town area,
secured by its walls, consisted of 169 houses, while another
204 homes stood just outside this protective boundary. In total
just 14,000 people lived in the newborn capital.
Testing times lay ahead. Between 1665 and 1668 Warsaw
was ransacked three times, and if it the natives thought
that was bad you should have seen their faces in 1700; the
Great Northern War kicked off when an anti-Swedish alliance
comprising of Russia, Poland and Denmark launched the
opening attack. The Swedes werent having any of it, and by
1702 their counter-attack had landed them at the gates of
Warsaw. Over the next few years Warsaw was passed back
and forth like a bag of sweets, sustaining heavy economic
and physical damage in the process. The war, a right epic
scrap if ever there was, drew to a close in 1721 and Warsaw
was finally left to pick up the pieces and move forward.
The Collegium Nobilium, a posh boarding school for the
landed classes, was opened in 1740, and this was promptly
followed by Polands first library seven years later. This age
of enlightenment promised much for Poland, a fact not lost
on her three neighbours: Prussia, Russia and Austria. Little
Poland was clearly getting too big for her boots, so the three
acted swiftly by imposing the First Petition of Poland in 1772,
a move which essentially robbed the country of a third of
its territory and population. Nonetheless, her three bullying
neighbours clearly hadnt counted on Stanisaw August
Poniatowski, the countrys last king, and arguably her finest.
It was under his leadership the Constitution of May 3
rd
was
ratified in 1791. This landmark code was the first of its kind
in Europe (and only second in the world after the USA), with
reforms focused on handing more power and freedom to
the general populace. Poniatowski was hailed as almost
visionary in his outlook, however his ideas once more stirred
his neighbours into action. This time round both Prussia and
Russia moved to weaken Poland in The Second Partition of
Poland (1793), snatching away 308,000 sq/km of territory,
and reducing her to just 223,000 sq/m.
Provoked by this latest aggression the Poles fought back
launching The Peasant Uprising of 1794. Led by Tadeusz
Kociuszko the insurgents scored a notable victory at
Racawicka, but eventually superior numbers told and the
rebellion ended in surrender. The following year Russia,
Prussia and Austria joined together to carve what remained
of Poland between them.
Napoleon offered the capital brief respite, and when his
armies marched eastwards in 1807 he created a semi-
independent Duchy of Warsaw. His failings on the battlefields
of Russia led to defeat, and within eight years Russian forces
had pushed the Frenchman back and regained Warsaw as
their own; Poland had effectively been wiped off the map.
Discontent with Russian rule was to come to a boil twice in the
following decades: first in the form of the November Insurrection
of 1831, and then again with the January Uprising of 1863. Both
rebellions were brutally crushed, and saw more patriots packed
off to serve penance in Siberia. Strangely, however, it was these
dark years that saw Warsaw blossom. Under the auspice of
Russian-born Mayor Sokrates Starynkiewicz the city developed
at lightning pace, and by the time of his death in 1902 the town
had acquired a modern sewage system, street-lighting, paved
streets and over 2,500 newly planted trees.
Still, resentment over foreign rule continued to linger, and it
was only the outbreak of World War One that promised hope.
The collapse of the Eastern Front saw the last Russian troops
leave in 1915, though these were immediately replaced
with German uni forms. Only when Germany signed the
armistice in 1918 was Poland finally freed from the shackles
of occupation. Arriving overnight in a sealed wagon, Jsef
Pisudski, a patriot who had been imprisoned in Magdeburg,
reached Warsaw on November 11 to assume leadership of
the nation. By the time of his death in 1935 this national
hero witnessed the introduction of the zoty, a failed coup
and the assassination of President Narutowicz. Even allowing
for these, nothing came close to the defeat of the Red Army
during the Polish-Soviet War of 1919-1921, a triumph which
not just guaranteed Polands short-term future, but Europes.
The twenti es and thirti es saw Warsaw fl ourish i nto a
confident, successful city, alas, we all know what was to come.
September 1 saw Nazi Germany start WWII with their attack
on the Westerplatte Peninsula in north Poland. By morning
Luftwaffe squadrons were firebombing Warsaw, and in spite
of dogged resistance the capital finally fell on September 30
th
.
The fate of the Jewish population, and the Warsaw Uprising, is
documented in detail elsewhere in the guide, so fast forward
instead to January 17, 1945. Liberation of sorts had arrived,
unfortunately for the Poles it meant spending much of the
following five decades under Soviet hegemony. In the wave
of Stalinist terror that followed businesses found themselves
nationalized, and political and religious leaders imprisoned.
Stalin died in 1953, but his legacy didnt. The Warsaw Pact, a
military treaty between eight communist states, was signed
in 1955 the same year Stalins parting gift to the city the
Palace of Culture was completed. A year on Pozan exploded
like a powder keg in what turned out to be the first street
demonstrations against communism. The communists
reacted in time honoured fashion, with their fists, and the
final score stood at 76 dead (unofficial estimates suggest
far, far more) and a city defeated.
In a bid to appease the people several hardliners were
dismissed and Wadysaw Gomuka was appointed as Polands
premier. Limited social reforms and a small-scale lifting of
press censorship followed, and a political thaw set in. This
veneer of social happiness was shattered in 1970 when new
protests broke out, this time in Gdask. Forty four died when
the army suppressed the demonstrations, and for a while
things appeared to settle down. Edward Gierek came in to
replace Gomuka as First Secretary, and he set about turning
the country round. Living standards increased, and for a time
Gierek carried the tag of miracle worker. He wasnt. Gierek had
built a house of cards, propping up the Polish economy with
half-mad policies based on acquiring mountains of foreign
debt. The oil crisis of 1973 saw the creditors come calling and
by 1976 price increases were in the pipeline. A fresh batch of
riots broke out across the nation, and military might was once
more relied upon to bring the people to heel.
The public was starting to get restless, but their protests
needed focus and direction. That came in 1978 when Karol
Wojtya, born in Wadowice close to Krakw, was appointed
Pope in 1978. Wojtya, who had adopted the name John Paul
II, returned to Poland the following year, and his whirlwind tour
of the country is seen by many as the pivotal moment when
the nation gathered courage to defy the system. Do not be
afraid, spoke the pontiff to the masses, change the image
of the land this land. It was a veiled message, but a clear
one, and from there on the fuse was lit.
In the form of Pope John Paul II the Poles had found a spiritual
direction, what was lacking was a physical one. That came
in the surprising shape of Lech Wasa, an unemployed
electrician with an extravagant moustache and a podgy look.
Within the space of a second he went from no-one to someone
and bulldozed Polish politics into the 21
st
century. The year
was 1980 and workers in the Lenin Shipyards in Gdask were
fuming at the dismissal of a female crane operator. Talk and
promise of strike was rife, and the atmosphere heated. On the
spur of the moment Wasa climbed a gate and addressed
those below. Inadvertently he had made himself the public
face of Solidarno (Solidarity), a trade union that would
prove the slingshot that felled communism. This time round
the protestors had learned from their bloody mistakes and
rather than confronting the tanks simply locked themselves
in the shipyards. Leaders representing workers from across
the country joined, and hammered out a list of 21 demands
including the legalisation of trade unions. Days of tension
followed, with tanks and militia standing menacingly outside,
and for a moment Poland stood on a precipice.
Amazingly it was the government that backed down, on
August 31 it signed an agreement meeting the workers
demands. The first peaceful victory over communism had
been won.
This wasnt to last Solidarity continued to press for further
reform, and with the Soviet Union looking likely to invade the
Polish President General Jaruzelski declared Martial Law
on December 13, 1981. Though Solidarity was officially
dissolved, and its leaders imprisoned, it continued to operate
underground. When Father Jerzy Popieluszko, Solidaritys
chaplain, was abducted and murdered by the secret police
over a million people attended his funeral.
Renewed labour strikes and a faltering economy forced
Jaruzelski into initiating talks with opposition figures in 1988,
and the following year Solidarity was once again granted
legal status. Soviet leader Gorbachev had made it clear he
wouldnt intervene in Polish politics, and when Jaruzelski was
pressured into holding partly free elections Solidarity swept
the board with Wasa leading from the front. The regime
collapsed and in 1990 Wasa was elected the first president
of post-communist Poland. Shock capitalist tactics were used
to rotate Poland into a free market economy, and while this
left several losers the nation emerged stronger than before.
Acceptance into the European Union in 2004 was proof of
this, and Polands rise illustrated by the decision to award it
co-responsibility for the Euro 2012 Football Championships.
Today Poland, with Warsaw as its figurehead, stands as
an exemplary member of the EU, and notably was the one
European nation to avoid recession in the recent global crisis.
1313: First written mention of Warsaw
1413: The regional capital of Mazovia is moved from
Czersk to Warsaw
1596: King Zygmunt III Vasa moves the Royal Court from
Krakw to Warsaw
1665-1668: The old town comes repeatedly under
siege, only just about surviving
1700: The Swedes invade Poland, capturing Warsaw
two years later and installing Stanisaw Leszczyski as
a puppet king in 1704.
1764: Stanisaw August Poniatowski is crowned King
1772: Poland is partitioned for the first time
1791: The historic May 3 Constitution is signed, inadvertently
prompting the second partition of Poland two years later
1795: Third Partition of Poland
1807: A semi-independent Duchy of Warsaw is created
by Napoleon. Its dissolved eight years later following
Frances military disasters and Warsaw falls once more
under Russian control.
1830: The November Uprising breaks out
1863: One more anti-Russian rising breaks out, this one
know as the January Uprising
1915: The Russians leave Warsaw in disarray but are
immediately replaced with Germans. Independence
takes another three years
1920: The Red Army is defeated at the gates of Warsaw,
saving post-war Europe from communism
1939: Nazi Germany invades Poland.
1943: Jews remaining in the Ghetto rise against the
Nazis. Their insurgency is crushed
1944: The peopl e of Warsaw launch the Warsaw
Uprising, but are defeated following 63 days of resistance
1945: The Red Army liberates Warsaw but Poland is
forced to kowtow to Moscow for the next few decades
1989: The communist regime crumbles
2004: Poland enters the European Union
2010: Poland is plunged into national mourning after a
plane carrying President Lech Kaczyski and all on board
crashed while on its way to a memorial service in Katy.
Warsaws Historical Timeline
92
93
WHAT TO SEE
ESSENTIAL WARSAW
Sightseeing and Warsaw
dont usually go together,
and the blame for that falls
on her citizens. While some
cities may have been happy
to wait out Nazi occupa-
tion, the Warsaw locals
were having none of that.
The ensuing uprising which
took place in 1944 would
become both the most glo-
rious and tragic episode in
the citys history. Doomed
from the outset the Warsaw
Uprising enraged Hitler, and
his retribution proved swift
and brutal. Warsaw was to
be wiped from the face of the map, and his cronies set about
their orders with a zealous fury. While Red Army tanks stood
stoically stationed across the river the Nazis set about blasting
western Warsaw from the map. Anything deemed of cultural
importance was dynamited, and whole districts were set on
fire. By the time liberation arrived, over 90% of the city lay in
total ruin. I have seen many towns destroyed, but nowhere
have I been faced with such destruction, commented a visibly
moved Eisenhower on a later visit to the city. That the city still
stands at all is tribute enough to the indefatigable spirit of the
Polish capital.
Nowhere bore the brunt of the Nazi malice more than the Old
Town, and its here that most tourists will choose to start
their tour of Warsaw. Using paintings and photographs as an
architectural blueprint the Old Town was painstakingly rebuilt,
the reconstruction of the historic centre only completed as late
as 1962. The areas inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage
List speaks volumes for the effort involved, and nothing is more
striking than the colourful, wonky-looking burgher houses that
frame the Old Town Square (B1/2, Rynek Starego Miasto).
The historic centre is also home to numerous churches, in-
cluding the striking St Johns Cathedral (B-2, ul. wietojaska
8) whose details number the gothic artworks of Wit Stwosz
as well as the tombs of knights, regents and eminent citizens.
Marking the edge of old town is the Royal Castle (B-2, pl.
Zamkowy 4), reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incred-
ible cost between 1971 and 1984. The prescribed tour will
take you through the Kings apartments and chambers,
heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments.
Although youll find plenty of photographic opportunities in
and amongst the tight cobbled alleyways save a few shots for
the viewing platform at the top of St Annes Church (B-2, ul.
Krakowskie Przedmieie), and dont leave the area without
first exploring the lesser known delights of the New Town.
There is far more to Warsaw than i ts ol d town however,
and one museum that demands to be vi si ted i s the
Warsaw Uprising Museum (D-3, ul. Przyokopowa 28). I ts
here, inside Polands best museum, that youll learn about
the ci tys doomed rebellion against the Nazis in 1944.
Packed wi th i nteracti ve di spl ays, photographs, vi deo
footage and miscellaneous exhibi ts this is guaranteed to
l eave a deep mark on all visi tors, and will go a l ong way
in explaining why Warsaw is far from the archi tectural
pearl i t once was.
Al though the Nazis flat-
tened the Jewish Ghetto
af ter a heroi c upri si ng
i n 1943 there are sti l l
traces of Warsaws Jewish
past, including a remain-
ing piece of the Ghetto
wall (E-3, ul. Sienna 55),
a memori al where the
loading ramp to Treblinka
once stood ( E-1, Um-
schl agpl atz) as wel l as
one of the largest Jewish
cemeteries in Europe (D-1,
ul. Okopowa 49/51). Most
recently, a trail marking the Ghetto boundaries has been
unveiled, its course interspersed with 21 dual-language
plaques at sights of specific interest.
The citys defining landmark however has to be the fearsome
Palace of Culture and Science (B-4, pl. Defilad 1). Looking
like something youd see in Ghostbusters the building tow-
ers at just over 231 metres in height - making it the tallest
and largest structure in Poland. Commissioned by Stalin as
a gift from the Soviet people, it was completed in 1955,
and built using an estimated 40 million bricks the crowning
glory is the viewing platform on the 30th floor. While its
the most obvious, its not the only example of the Socialist
Realist style, and visitors have plenty to marvel at from the
everyman residential units of Muranow and pl. Konsytucji,
to the stern looking block that once housed Communist HQ
(ul. Nowy Swiat 6).
Across the river the Praga suburb is undergoing a long due
revival, and its growing reputation as an artistic haven is
evident in the cafes that have sprung up along the pre-war
Zabkowska street. But while the Praga area is breathing
once more, it still looks shabby. For a glimpse of Warsaws
Imperial beauty head instead to her palaces, in particular
azienki Park and Palace (G-4, ul. Agrykola 1) and Wilanw
Palace - dubbed The Polish Versailles - (ul. Stanisawa
Kostki-Potockiego 10/16). Joanna Kortas
Paul Kowalow wikipedia.pl
Churches
Many Poles still see a direct connection between the church
and patriotism, explained much by the fact that during centu-
ries of oppression by neighbouring powers, the church helped
the nation of Poland to survive by giving Poles an identity.
Although on the wane in post-communist Poland, the church
still plays an important role in many peoples lives and the
churches reflect the importance of religion in the history of
the Polish nation.
Holy Cross Church (Koci w. Krzya) C-3, ul.
Krakowskie Przedmiecie 3, tel. (+48) 22 556 88 20,
www.swkrzyz.pl. No Chopinologist can leave Warsaw with-
out first visiting the final resting place of his heart. Added to
the church in 1882 his heart was sealed in an urn and then
placed behind a tablet bearing his likeness specially carved
by Leonardo Marconi.
Although this serves as the churchs key draw theres several
other features of note to tempt the visitor inside this astonish-
ing Baroque creation. The churchs history originally dates
from the 15th century when a small wooden chapel stood
on the site. Destroyed during the Swedish Deluge of the
1650s construction on a church to replace it began in 1682,
the cornerstone being ceremoniously laid by Prince Jakub,
son of King Jan III Sobieski. Designed by the royal architect,
Jakub Bellotti, it was completed in 1696 though through
time would see numerous additions to its shape. The most
notable of these would come in the following century when
Jzef Fontana added two Baroque crowns to the square-cut
twin towers. His son Jakub would later extensively refurbish
the faade with Jan Jerzy Plersch adding elaborate decorative
touches to the interior.
Throughout history the church has played its role in Warsaws
glories and calamities. It was here that the last Polish King forged
the Order of the Knights of St Stanislaus, and it was directly
outside in 1861 that Russian troops brutally suppressed a
patriotic protest. It was this bloodbath that lit the touchpaper
for the January Uprising of that year. Devastated during the
Warsaw Uprising in 1944 the church was painstakingly rebuilt
at the end of the war and is today a feast for the heart, eyes
and soul. The organ (built in Salzburg in 1925) is the largest in
Warsaw, and other points of note include an urn with the remains
of Nobel Prize winning author Wadysaw Reymont, and tablets
honouring various Polish icons including poet Juliusz Sowacki
and WWII hero Wadysaw Sikorski. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun
14:00 - 15:30. No visiting during mass please.
Jesui t Church (Koci Jezui tw) B- 2, ul .
witojaska 10, tel. (+48) 22 831 16 75, www.
laskawa.pl. Built at the behest of King Zygmunt III Wazas
confessor, Pi otr Skarga, this l ovel y li ttl e Renaissance
church was built between 1609 and 1626 for the citys
Jesuit community. Having had something of a varied and
colourful history to say the least, it suffered at the hands
of the Swedes in the latter hal f of the 17th century, who
looted it of its entire contents, and even spent time as a
storehouse during the Partitions. Also known as the Holy
Mother of Grace Church after the citys patron saint, the
church was returned to the Jesuits at the end of WWI only
to be destroyed by the Germans in 1944. Rebuilt between
1948 and 1957, of the few remaining original parts of
the i nteri or, of parti cul ar i nterest i s the 17th-century
picture of the Holy Mother hersel f. The crypt, not open to
visitors, contains the remains of Prince Karol Ferdynand
Waza and Maciej Kazimierz Sarbiewski (1595-1640), the
Jesuit priest, poet and court preacher to King Wadysaw
IV. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 14:00 - 21:00. No visiting
during mass please.
Military Cathedral (Kat-
edra Pol owa Woj ska
Polskiego) B-2, ul. Duga
13/15, tel. (+48) 22 687 77
02, www.katedrapolowa.
pl. Comprising of both the St.
Francis of Assisi Church and
monastery and built between
1662 and 1663 by the Pia-
rist friars, the extraordinary
Military Cathedral, also known
as the Church of Our Lady
Queen of the Polish Crown,
is the capitals main garrison
church. Having spent time as
an Orthodox Church, prison, orphanage and a depot for
German soldiers during WWI, the church was reconstructed
based on original 17th-century drawings after indepen-
dence in 1918 and became the seat of the field bishop of
the Polish Army. Again rebuilt after its destruction during
WWII, the church is now decorated with a peculiar mix of
religious and military artefacts, including a number of large
oil paintings depicting the most well known of Polands
battles and uprisings. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00. No visiting
during mass please.
St. Alexanders Church (Koci w. Aleksandra)
C-4, Pl. Trzech Krzyy, tel. (+48) 22 628 53 35, www.
swaleksander.pl. Modelled on the Roman Pantheon, this
church boasts a sculpture of Christ that dates from the 18th
century. It was here that Allied secret agents met during WWII.
The churchs lower level is used for services for deaf mutes.
Father Jakub Falkowski, parish priest of St. Alexanders,
founded the nearby Institute of Deaf Mutes and the Blind. Q
Open 10:00-16:00, 17:00-18:00. Closed Fri, Sun. No visiting
during mass please.
The tour includes:
English speaking guide
Sightseeing of The Old Town,
Old Praga and Koneser
former Vodka Factory
Transportation to Praga
district
Free tasting of different
brands of Polish Vodka
Traditional Polish appetizers
If you want to know - join
The Connoiseur Tour!
If youhaveanyfurther questionsor youwant to
bookthetripcall:
(toursarefor 4or moreguests)
+q8 6ee z 6z8
94
WHAT TO SEE
95
WHAT TO SEE
St. Annes Church (Koci w. Anny) B-2, ul.
Krakowskie Przedmiecie 68, tel. (+48) 22 826 89
91, www.swanna.waw.pl. St Annes survived the war
with a few token scratches and a collapsed roof, but what
the Nazis failed to destroy was very nearly demolished by a
team of incompetent builders - by 1949 the whole church
threatened to come crashing to the ground. The thoughtless
construction of the nearby Trasa W-Z tunnel had led to several
landslides, resulting in huge cracks appearing in the floor of
the church. It took a team of 400 people two weeks of tireless
work to stabilise the undersoil and shore up the foundations.
Intriguingly, this wasnt the first time St Annes had survived
vicious conflict to find disaster around the corner. It escaped
destruction during the war with Sweden (1650-1655) only
to be gutted by fire two years later, apparently the victim of
an arson attack. The classicist faade dates from 1788 and
is the design of the royal architect, Piot Aigner. The interior
holds even more classicist and rococo details. The view tower
is one of the best in Warsaw and worth the 147-step climb.
One other point of interest concerns a simple wooden cross
you will see there. These two planks of wood became the
focus of a battle that threatened to divide the country in
the summer of 2010. To read the story behind that see our
piece on the presidential cross. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sun
07:30 - 22:00. No visiting during mass.
St. Augustines Church (Koci w. Augustyna)
A-2, ul. Nowolipki 18, tel. (+48) 22 838 30 95, www.
swaugustyn.pl. Completed in 1896 this neo-gothic edifice
will be familiar to anyone with a keen interest in the Holocaust.
Situated in the heart of the ghetto the church was spared
destruction while the streets surrounding it were turned into a
sea of bricks. It was torched after the 1944 Uprising, though
was sufficiently restored to hold its first post-war mass in
1947. Q Open 07:00-10:00, 18:00-19:30 and by prior ar-
rangement. No visiting during mass please.
St. Bennos Church (Koci w. Benona) B-1, ul.
Piesza 1, tel. (+48) 22 578 70 10, www.swbenon.pl.
Bennos has a wacky history. King Sigismund III was devotee
of St. Benno and invited peer priests from Bavaria to Warsaw
in the 17th century. Their main aim was to support Germans
living outside their home country. Ironically, in 1944, the
chapel was blown to smithereens by you-know-who. Rebuilt
by the Poles in 1958, it now has an interesting interior dating
from 1977. Q Open during mass and by prior arrangement.
St. Carlo Borromeo Church (Koci w. Karola
Boromeusza) A-3, ul. Chodna 9, tel. (+48) 22 620
37 47, www.parafiaandrzeja.pl. The splendid form of St.
Charles Borromeo Church dominates Chodna, standing out
as an absolute jewel among the socialist housing units sur-
rounding it. Designed by Henryk Marconi, and built between
1841 and 1849, this glorious structure was modelled on the
Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica in Rome. It survived WWII
virtually intact, with only the presbytery sustaining damage,
and has been subject to restoration work to brush up the
apostles that stand on the wings outside. Note the pre-war
tramlines still embedded in the cobbles outside, as well as
a stone tribute to Jerzy Popieuszko - the Solidarity priest
murdered by the security services in 1984; he lived in the
great big block overlooking the church. Q Open during mass
or by prior arrangement.
St. Casimirs Church (Koci Benedyktynek
- Sakramentek) B-1, Rynek Nowego Miasta 2, tel.
(+48) 22 831 49 62, www.sakramentki.opoka.org.
pl. Founded by Mary Sobieski, wi fe of King Jan III Sobieski,
to commemorate her husbands victory over the Turkish
army at the Gates of Vienna. The baroque-style church
was designed by Tylman van Gameren and was completed
in 1692. In 1944 it served as a Polish field hospital, and
received a direct hit from a German bomb, killing more
than 1,000 civilians, priests, nuns and soldiers who were
sheltering inside. Today it has been fully restored and has
a charred wooden cross as tribute to those who died. Q
Open by prior arrangement.
St. Franics Seraph Church (Koci stygmatw
w. Franciszka Serafickiego) B-1, ul. Zakroc-
zymska 1, tel. (+48) 22 831 20 31, www.warszawa.
franciszkanie.pl. Completed in 1733 this baroque mas-
terpiece holds the remains of St Vitalis; see the glass coffin
for yourself by visiting the chapel to your left. Many of the
religious relics found scattered around were donated by
Pope Benedict XIV in 1754, and this church is also entered
in the history books as holding the first free mass in Warsaw
following the flight of the Nazis. Q Open 06:00-20:00. No
visiting during mass please.
St. Hyacinth Church (Koci w. Jacka) B-1, ul.
Freta 10, tel. (+48) 22 635 47 00, www.freta.domini-
kanie.pl. This nice little Baroque church was built by the Do-
minicans between 1603 and 1639 by the architect Joannes
Italus. Of particular interest inside the predominantly white
interior is the Chapel of St. Dominic. Paid for by the Kotowski
family and designed by Polands greatest late-17th-century
architect, Tylman van Gameren, the chapel was one of the
few parts of the church to survive the war. During the Warsaw
Uprising the church was used as a hospital and was almost
completely destroyed in 1944. Its current form dates from
1959. QOpen 06:45 - 19:00, Sun 07:30 - 21:00. No visiting
during mass please.
St. Johns Cathedral (Katedra w. Jana) B-2, ul.
wietojaska 8, tel. (+48) 22 831 02 89, www.katedra.
mkw.pl. Originally built in the 14th century, St. Johns is
steeped in history. The last king of Poland, Stanisaw August
Poniatowski, was crowned and eventually buried here, and in
1791 he also declared the Constitution of May 3 inside the
building. The crypt holds the bodies of Henryk Sienkiewicz
(writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Polands first president) and
various Mazovian knights. Other interesting details to look
for include the covered walkway that links the Cathedral
with the Royal Castle. It was added in 1620 as a security
measure following a failed assassination attempt on King
Sigismund III. As with most major landmarks, it was the
scene of heavy fighting during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising
and was subsequently left in a heap of ruins before being
rebuilt in pseudo-gothic style. On the external wall by the main
entrance are fragments of a Goliath - a remote-controlled
tank used by the German army. A 17th century bell made
by artisan Daniel Tym (who also made the statue of King
Sigismund III atop the famed column) can now be found in
the centre of ul. Kanonia (B-2). The bell itself never rang at
the cathedral, but it has developed its own legend: touch
the top of the bell and walk its circumference and your wish
will come true. Q Open 10:00-17:30, Sun 15:00-17:30. No
visiting during mass please.
St. Marys Church (Koci Nawiedzenia NMP)
B-1, ul. Przyrynek 2, tel. (+48) 22 831 24 73, www.
przyrynek.pl. Scan the horizon of the new town and the
chances are youll find your eyes settling on the Gothic
shape of the Church of the Visitation of St Mary. Built in
the 15th century on the whim of a Mazovian princess this
brick beauty allegedly stands on the site of an ancient
pagan place of worship. Extensively remodelled over the
centuries it was rebuilt true to its original form after WWII.
Q Open during mass only.
Adventure Warsaw ul. Miska 25 (Praga Poudnie),
tel. (+48) 606 22 55 25, www.adventurewarsaw.com.
Tours of Warsaw showing the country of the Peoples Repub-
lic, Praga and Hidden Warsaw inside a vintage Nysa 522.
NEW
Koneser Tour tel. (+48) 600 97 26 28, www.monopol-
praski.pl. If you consider Warsaw synonymous with vodka,
this is the tour for you. Meet at Sigismunds Column for a
chance to learn about where this nectar comes from and how
its made. The tour includes sightseeing in Old Town, Praga
and at the former Koneser vodka factory as well as samples
of Polish vodka and appetisers. The tour lasts around 3.5
hours and can be organised in German, Italian, Russian or
English at a cost of 140zl per person. Adults only.
Mazurkas Travel B-1, Al. Wojska Polskiego 27,
tel. (+48) 22 389 41 82, www.mazurkas.com.pl.
Tours of Warsaw and further afield, including Chopin
themed excursion, Auschwitz and Wieliczka Salt Mines.
Transport, hotels and restaurant bookings also. QOpen
08:30 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Y
Slow Warsaw tel. (+48) 662 39 08 15, www.slow-
warsaw.com. A 2.5 hour English walking tour starting at
the Tourist Information office at the Palace of Culture (ul.
Emilii Plater side) at 10am and taking you through the history
of Warsaw while crossing the city to the Old Town where
the tour finishes. Book in advance. Q 80z per person.
Trakt B-3, ul. Kredytowa 6, tel. (+48) 22 827
80 69, www.trakt.com.pl. Warsaws only special-
ized tour guide agency. Tours are available in over 20
languages - including sign language - and cover all the
major tourist sights in Warsaw, including azienki and
Wilanw palaces, and the parliament building. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
NEW
Warsaw4u tel. (+48) 602 53 74 95, www.warsaw4u.
com. Well regarded Warsaw4U features four different
walking tours run by professional guides beginning in
February. Historic Warsaw takes place three times a week
(Monday, Wednesday and Saturday at 10:00 beginning
at Sigismunds Column) while Jewish Warsaw, Alternative
Warsaw and Communism in Warsaw take place weekly.
Each tour is just 45zl, and the knowledgeable guides also
offer tailor-made tours upon request. No booking required.
NEW
Warsaw Behind The Scenes tel. (+48) 605 27
82 89, www.warsawscenes.com. Highly unique tours
of Warsaw. Choose from a Behind the Scenes tour via a
classic Polish FSO 125 p car; an Evening Warsaw tour that
takes on the city at night (and includes two beers); even a
Russian-themed tour that hits up Soviet attractions and
tops them with vodka. Visitors can also design their own
tours. Tours, which can be walking or via transport, start
at 99zl and last 3-4 hours depending on the tour.
Warsaw City Tours B-3, ul. Marszakowska 140,
tel. (+48) 501 21 61 93, www.warsawcitytours.
info. Tailor-made city tours taking in Chopin, Jewish
Warsaw and other attractions. Also cover Krakw,
Auschwitz and Wieliczka. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 14:00.
Tours
Look for more info at www.warsaw4u.com
You need professional Private Tour Guide?
No problem! Simply contact us.
One price 45PLN. For groups of 5 and more 10%discount.
No booking required!
tel: +48 602 537 495
HISTORICAL WARSAW
Mon, Wed, Sat - 10:00
Start: Sigismunds Column
JEWISH WARSAW
Mon - 13:30
Start:Tourist Information/
Palace of Culture
ALTERNATIVE WARSAW
(Praga District) Wed - 13:30
Start: Sigismunds Column
COMMUNISM IN WARSAW
Sat - 13:30
Start:Tourist Information/
Palace of Culture
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WHAT TO SEE
97
WHAT TO SEE
Monuments
Adam Mickiewicz Monument (Pomnik Adama
Mickiewicza) B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 5.
Patriot, poet and the man who inspired Romanticism in Poland,
Mickiewicz stands out as Polands greatest literary figure - as
well as a figure of hope during a bleak age of Russian oppres-
sion. His involvement in politics saw him exiled east in 1824 by
the ruling Russians, before finally heading to western Europe in
1829. A bid to return to his homeland in 1830 was thwarted at
the border, and he never saw his native Poland again.
Much mystery surrounds his life; his role as a national cultural
icon meaning that much of the seamier side of his life has
been covered up, including his involvement in strange cults
and alleged womanising. To this day, even his birthplace
remains a hot source of argument. Some say Nowogrdek
(Lithuania), others say the nearby Zaosie. A champion of
freedom, he died during a cholera outbreak in Turkey, 1855,
while recruiting a Polish legion to fight the Russians in the
Crimea. Originally buried in Paris, Mickiewiczs body now lies
in Wawel Cathedral, Krakw.
His defining masterpiece, Pan Tadeusz, is a beauti fully
written epic portraying Polish society in the 19th century.
His statue dominates ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie, and
traces of bullet holes dating from WWII are still visible on
the monument.
Aviator Monument (Pomnik Lotnika) E-4, ul. wirki
i Wigury. Fittingly located on the route from the airport one
of the first sights that will greet visitors as they crawl into the
city centre is the sight of a lone aviator standing at the top of
ul. wirki I Wigury. The statue actually honours two men, Fran-
ciszek wirko and Stanisaw Wigura, Polands most renowned
aviation heroes. To list their achievements would require
an extra page, suffice to say their finest hour came when
they clinched victory in the Challenge 1932 international air
contest. That was also to be the year the pair of aces died,
crashing while on their way to another flying competition in
Prague. The statue is a replica of the one unveiled in 1932
on Pl. Uni Lubelskiej. Blown up by the Nazis a faithful copy
was reconstructed and placed in its current location in 1967.
Char l es de Gaul l e
Monument (Pomni k
Charlesa de Gaullea)
C- 4, Rondo de Gaullea.
Charles de Gaulle is the sub-
ject of one of Warsaws newer
monuments. Striding away
from what was once the
Commie party HQ, the monu-
ment is a gift from the French
government and can be found
on (C-4) Rondo de Gaullea.
A resident of Warsaw in the
1920s, de Gaul l e i s a bi t
of a hero in these parts for
the role he played in The Battle of Warsaw in 1920. With
Europe in turmoil following the aftermath of WWI the Red
Army launched a huge military strike, aimed at enslaving
the rest of Europe. The Bolsheviks expected an easy march
to Paris, but the Poles has other ideas. With the Red Army
just 23km from Warsaw Marshal Pisudski launched a deft
action to split the Bolshevik forces in two and encircle them.
The battle raged from August 13-August 25, 1920, with the
Poles claiming a historic victory in what Woodrow Wilson
went on to describe as the seventh most important battle
in history. The Bolshevik forces were decimated, and Europe
saved. De Gaulle fought with distinction and was awarded the
highest military honour in the country, the Virtuti Militari.
Cross-monument Pl. Pisudskiego. Nine metres high
and made of white granite June 6, 2009 saw the unveiling
of giant cross on pl. Pilsudskiego. It was here that Pope
John Paul II returned to Warsaw for the first time after
being made pope, and it was also on this spot a candlelit
vigil was held when news first broke of his death. The
inscription is taken from his sermon and reads: Let your
spirit come down and renew the face of earth, this earth.
Unvei l ed by Warsaw Mayor Hanna Gronki ewi cz Wal tz
and Archbishop Kazimierz Nycz, the towering monument
was designed by Jerzy Mierzwiaka, Marek Kuciski and
Natalia Wilczak.
Ignacy Paderewski G- 4, Park Ujazdowski. Born
in Kurywka in 1860 Paderewski is fondly remembered
as a politican, patriot and musician. Having entered the
Warsaw Conservatorium at the age of 12 he worked as
a piano tutor after graduation. The death of his wi fe, just
a year after they married, spurred him to commit his li fe
to music and in 1887 he made his public debut in Vienna.
His talent was obvious and his growing popularity saw him
storm both Europe and the States, not just as a pianist,
but a masterful composer as well. He was based in Paris
during WWI and it was during this time he became actively
involved in politics, becoming spokesman for the Polish
National Committee. With the end of the war he sought a
return to his homeland where, having played a key role in
the Wielkopolska Uprising (which saw Pozna merged into
the newly reformed Polish state), he was elected Polands
third ever prime minister. It was he who signed for Polands
part in the 1919 Treaty of Versailles, though his fall from
grace was just around the corner. Many thought he had sold
Poland short and in the face of growing public discontent
he resigned from office in December 1919. A short stint as
Polands representative in the League of Nations followed
before he opted to resume his musical career. Aside from
being a skilled musician, the mop haired Paderewski was
also a popular public speaker, known for his devastating
wit. One anecdote recalls him being introduced to a polo
player with the words: You are both leaders in your spheres,
though the spheres are very di fferent. Not one to miss a
beat Paderewski deadpanned Not so very di fferent, you
are a dear soul who plays polo, and I am a poor Pole who
plays solo. During WWII he became an eminent figure in
the London based exiled Polish Parliament, though died in
1941 with the country of his birth still under occupation.
J an Ki l i ski Monument (Pomni k J ana
Kiliskiego) B-2, ul. Podwale. A huge monument
honouring Jan Kiliski, a Warsaw cobbler who became the
unlikely hero of the 1794 Kociuszko Uprising. Despite
being wounded twice, Kiliski and his troop of peasants
captured the Russian Ambassadors Warsaw residence;
an action that ultimately led to his imprisonment in St. Pe-
tersburg. Said to embody the Polish virtues of bravery and
patriotism, his statue was erected in 1936 and originally
located on pl. Krasiskich. In reprisal for an attack on the
Copernicus Monument, Nazi troops hid Kiliski inside the
vaults of the National Museum. Within days, boy scouts
had daubed the museum with the graffiti People of War-
saw! I am here, Jan Kiliski. After the war the cobbler was
returned to his rightful place, before being finally relocated
to ul. Podwale in 1959.
Visits to Polands most prestigious street, Krakowskie
Przedmiecie, start by the Royal Castle, next to the
sabre rattling statue of King Sigismund. A popular
meeti ng poi nt wi th l overs and buskers al i ke wed
suggest you start your tour by taking the Socialist
Realist era escalator. From there head to St Annes a
neo-classical effort that survived the war but came
wi thi n a whisker of coll apse when work began on
the W-Z tunnel running beneath it. The 1949 tunnel
project caused several landslides and it took a team
of 400 workers two weeks to shore the foundations
and stabilise the soil. But the real hero of the hour
was Romauld Cebertowicz, a professor who invented
a way of solidi fying the soil by way of directing elec-
tric currents into it. The interiors of St Annes house
numerous intricate details, but the real reason for
visiting is the taras widokowy, a viewing platform on
top of the next door tower.
Next, make a beeline for the Mickiewicz monument
that honours Polands best loved bard. This statue was
erected in 1898, the centenary of his birth. Unveiled
at a ti me of I mperial Russian repressi on the very
creation of his likeness was regarded as something of
a bombshell, and over 12,000 patriotic Poles turned
up to cheer the ribbon cutting. Standing just behind
is one of the Warsaws biggest mysteries. Everyone
knows the pi nk buil di ng wi th that great bi g chunk
missing from its facade, but what the devil is it? Built
in 1784 to serve as a travellers inn this mysterious
structure is actually student digs, as well as home
to a branch of the WBK bank and a music shop. The
17th century Camelite Church next door is one of the
original examples of the classicist style to be found
in Poland, and comes topped off with a sea green orb
representing the world.
Next up its the Presidential Palace, that fenced-off
building guarded by stone lions and stern soldiers.
Construction on it started in 1643 at the behest of
Stanislaw Koniecpolski, though was only completed
after his death. It passed into the hands various aris-
tocratic families and in the 18th century became the
famed venue for lavish society banquets. None were
more celebrated than the party held to celebrate the
coronation of Stanislaw II August Poniatowski in 1789;
over two million zloty was spent on entertaining 4,000
guests, a sum which must have been unheard of in
those days. But it was money well spent; Poniatowski
would prove to be one of Polands finest monarchs, and
the constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on these very
grounds, is recognized as Europes first.
When Pol and regai ned i ndependence i n 1918 the
reconstructed building was commandeered to serve
as home to the Pri me Mi nister and his Council of
Ministers. When Herman Goering visited in 1937 he
spent so much time pottering around admiring the
architectural details he was late for his meeting with
the Polish Foreign Minister. It saw more momentous
events in 1955, this time when the Warsaw pact the
Soviet Unions answer to NATO was rati fied within
its walls. In 1989 round table talks between the com-
munists and opposition were held here, paving the way
for political freedom, and in 1994 it was appointed as
the official home of the Polish president.
Krakowskie Przedmiecie...
Next door its the Le Meridien Bristol Hotel, long re-
garded as one of Warsaws most exclusive hotels. Tread
through the marble lobby and youll learn why; etched
in brass by reception youll find the names of dozens
of celebrities whove stayed here, including Picasso,
Nixon and Dietrich. An even more interesting story
can be found opposite, namely inside ul. Krakowskie
Przedmiecie 13. A superb bygone creation the Hotel
Europejski closed its doors in 2006 following nearly 130
years of service. Built on the site of a guesthouse called
the Gerlach the Europejski was funded by publisher
Aleksander Przezdziecki, and inspired by the designs he
had seen on his world travels. Touched up by architects
like Henryk Marconi it came to be known as Warsaws
first modern hotel. The hotel, which once greeted The
Rolling Stones, Robert Kennedy, Marlene Dietrich and
Indira Ghandi might have closed, but its current owners
have big plans. The lower floors are already occupied by
trendy spots like U Kucharzy, and theres plans afoot to
develop the upper floors into luxury apartments, offices
and a prestigious hotel. Heading back on yoursel f dont
miss a quick look in at ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
15. Now home to the Ministry of Culture and Art this is
where Napoleon met his paramour Marie Walewska at
a ball held in his honour.
One thing that wont have escaped your notice at this
stage is the preponderance of young people, some of
them carrying books, others staggering out of bars. Yep,
youve guessed it, the university is here, its main campus
lying behind the grand gateway at number 26/28. Dating
from the 17th century the main building, known as Villa
Regia, was remodelled and renovated several times,
before finally being earmarked as the home of Warsaws
new university. Established in 1819 and opened for class
a couple of years later the uni had a tough time under
Russian rule. Closed in retaliation for the 1830 - 31 Up-
rising the university continued to operate underground,
though by 1859 the Tsar had been placated enough to
the extent he rubber stamped the creation of a School
of Medicine. Today, with some 57,000 students on the
roll call the university stands out as the largest in Poland,
as well as one of the best - a title hotly contested with
Krakws Jagiellonian Uni. Notable alumni include former
Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz,
award-winning hack Ryszard Kapusciski, the late presi-
dent Lech Kaczyski and poet Julian Tuwim.
Having failed in your attempt to get a few phone numbers
from the student body cross the street making a line for
the Church of the Holy Cross. Much has been written
about this place, so we wont add anything other than
make sure you put it on your list of unmissables. Finally,
at the end of KP, its Copernicus himself and his statue
has also played its part in Warsaws recent history.
...Krakowskie Przedmiecie
Urbanlegend
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98
WHAT TO SEE
99
WHAT TO SEE
Jzef Pi sudski Monu-
ment (Pomni k Jzef a
Pi sudski ego) F- 2, Pl .
Pisudskiego. Casting a steely
gaze over the square named in
his honour is a gloomy looking
Field Marshal Pisudski, a man
many Poles hold responsible
for winning the country its in-
dependence in 1918. Regarded
as a political and military hero
this man did more than most to
free Poland from the shackles
of Russian control; his early years saw him imprisoned in
Siberia after being wrongfully convicted of plotting to assas-
sinate the Tsar, though his finest hour undoubtedly came in
1920 when he beat off the Bolshevik hordes at the gates of
Warsaw, inadvertently saving a battered post-war Europe
from being flooded by the rampant Soviets. Unveiled in 1995
this particular monumen is the work of Tadeusz odziany,
and Pisudski fans can view another such monument to the
man on ul. Belweder.
King Sigismunds Col -
umn (Kolumna Krla Zyg-
munta) B-2, Pl. Zamkowy.
Built in honour of the man who
made Warsaw the capi tal of
Poland, the column was erected
back in 1664 and stands twenty
two metres high. During the war
the col umn col l apsed under
bombardment and the original
now lies close to the Royal Cas-
tle (and is considered lucky to
touch). The figure of Sigismund
survived and the new column was proudly re-erected in 1949.
Monte Cassino Monument (Pomnik Monte
Cassino) B-2, ul. Duga 52. The Battle of Monte Cassino
was actually a series of four intense and sometimes con-
troversial battles that took place between January 20 and
May 18, 1944, culminating at a 1,300-year-old Benedictine
monastery on the top of the 1,100 metre Monte Cassino in
southern Italy. After the successful Allied landings in Italy in
September 1943 a route was needed from the Allied position
north of Naples to Rome, and the only way through was via
the Liri Valley. Blocking the valley was a mass of German-
occupied hills around the town of Cassino. Involving British,
US, French, North African, New Zealand, Ghurkha and Polish
troops, fierce battles raged against the Germans on a slow
and brutal advance towards the monastery, whose eventual
capture would give the Allied forces the access they needed
to open the road to Rome. At a cost of over 25,000 lives
including the deaths by heavy allied bombing on February
15 of a number of Italian civilians who were taking refuge in
the monastery, the final battle ended on the morning of May
18 when a reconnaissance group of soldiers from the Polish
12th Podolian Uhlans Regiment finally reached what was by
then an empty and completely devastated monastery. The
Battle of Monte Cassino paved the way for the Allied advance
on Rome, which fell on June 4, 1944, two days before the
Normandy invasion, and is one of Polands proudest military
achievements. On May 18, 1999, exactly 55 years after the
event, an 8.5-metre monument designed by the Polish sculp-
tor Gustaw Zema was unveiled in a small park by just north of
the (A-2) Archaeological Museum. Resembling the outline of
Italy with a number of eerie, battle-related elements built into
it, the monument also features a pair of wings, supposedly
representing Nike and the Polish Hussars.
Ni c h o l a s Co p e r n i -
cus Monument (Pom-
nik Miko aja Koperni -
ka) C- 3, ul . Krakowski e
Przedmiecie. The founder
of modern astronomy. A shel-
tered academic, he made his
observations a century before
the invention of the telescope
and without help or guidance.
His book De Revolutionibus
(1543) posited that the earth
rotated on its axis once a day,
travelled around the sun once
a year, and that mans place in the cosmos was peripheral.
This may seem obvious today, but it was an utterly radical
idea at the time.
Although astronomers who propagated his ideas were burnt
at the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolu-
tionibus on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there
was no turning back progress. The modern cosmological
view - that our galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is
this mans legacy.
The statue itself was built in 1830 and has seen its fair share
of adventure. During WWII the Nazis placed a bronze plaque
insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp - a German.
In 1942, a boy scout called Alek Dawidowski, ducked the
guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the Nazis
removed the statue, hid it in Silesia and dynamited a few other
surrounding monuments for good measure. The statue was
recovered in the years following the war, while Dawidowski
has entered Polish folklore as a result of his bravery. The
plaque at the centre of the storm is unfortunately held in
Warsaws History Museum which is closed for renovation
for the foreseeable future.
Nike B-2, near Pl. Zamkowy (Trasa W-Z scarp). Just
before hitting the WZ tunnel that rumbles below the old town
visitors cant fail but see a giant cast iron statue of Nike: as
in the Greek Goddess of Victory, not the shoe. Standing with
sword raised aloft this noble structure is actually officially
named Monument to the Heroes of Warsaw 1939-1945,
and remembers the thousands of locals who fought and
died against Nazi rule. The statue made its debut in 1964,
originally standing on pl. Teatralny. This was before there
was any official memorial to the Warsaw Uprising, and as
such Nike became the favoured assembly point for Polish
veterans, as well as student agitators in later years. In 1999
Pl. Teatralny underwent a well-deserved faceli ft and the
fearsome Nike found herself forklifted over to her current
spot where she stands with a watchful eye over the cars
and buses that gasp too-and-fro.
Syrena The mermaid is the symbol of Warsaw, and as such
youll find her likeness on everything from buses to beer
cans. The legend dates to the
time of Prince Kazimierz, who
allegedly got lost while on a
hunting expedition in the area
that is now Warsaw. Behold, a
mermaid transpired from the
marshland, and gui ded the
hapless prince to safety by
firing burning arrows. Firmly es-
tablished as an icon of Warsaw
youll find three mermaid stat-
ues in Warsaw, specifically on
(C-1), Old Town Square, (D-2),
Tadeusz Kociuszko Monument A/B-3, Pl. Za
elazn Bram. History produces few men like Tadeusz
Kociuszko (1746-1817). Kociuszkos highest ideal was
freedom, and he used his own to try and secure it for all
those less fortunate. In one country - Poland - he failed
and is remembered as the greatest hero who ever walked
the land. In another country - America - he succeeded,
and yet has been almost completely forgotten. A monu-
ment to the man was unveiled in November 2010 in the
presence of the Polish President and the US Ambassa-
dor. The monument is an exact copy of one in Washington
by sculptor Antoni Popiel given to Americans on behalf
of the Polish nation. At its unveiling outside of the White
House in 1910 the promise was made to erect a copy
in Poland if ever the country regained its independence.
The man himsel f was educated in Warsaw and Paris
during which time Poland was partitioned for the first
time in 1772. Kociuszko found himself attracted to the
American fight for independence and arrived in Phila-
delphia aged 30. Upon arrival he read the Declaration
of Independence and found himself so inspired and in
concert with its ideology that he determined to meet the
man who wrote it, Thomas Jefferson. The two men later
began a lifelong friendship which became so binding that
Kociuszko made Jefferson the executor of his will. Jef-
ferson was to call Kociuszko the purest son of liberty
among you all that I have ever known, and of that liberty
which is to go to all, not to the few or the rich alone.
I t was as a col onel i n the engi neeri ng corps that
Kociuszko distinguished himself and it was his choice
of Bemis Heights as the place to engage the British that
was to become the decisive turning point of the northern
campaign - the Battle of Saratoga in October 1777. The
victory at Saratoga won the northern campaign and the
alliance of the French as Louis XVI officially recognised
America as an independent country. Kosciuszko was
then charged with fortifying West Point, New York, where
he built an impenetrable fortress that would later become
Americas premier military academy. Rewarded with
citizenship, the rank of Brigadier General and land near
Columbus Ohio at the end of hostilities, Kociuszko found
himself instead drawn back to Poland whose aggressive
neighbours continued to threaten its sovereignty.
Having first freed the serfs on his own estate back in
Poland, Kociuszko once again returned to the military.
On May 3, 1791 the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth
created the first constitution in modern Europe (second
in the world after America), which enacted widespread
reforms and four days later the Russian army crossed
the border triggering the Polish-Russian War of 1792.
Kociuszko again distinguished himsel f in battle and
became regarded as Polands leading military strategist
having never been defeated. However the neighbouring
powers further reduced the power and size of Poland
through the Second Partition of Poland (January 21,
1793) leaving Kociuszko to resolve that the Poles were
going to have to drive their oppressors out and to regain
their independence.
What followed came to be known as the Kociuszko Up-
rising. Kociuszko using his experience of the American
war of Independence led his ill-equipped peasant army
to victory over the Russian army at Racawice. The
ultimate defeat of Poland resulted in the Third Partition
of Poland (October 24th, 1795) and Poland disappeared
from the map of Europe for the next 123 years. Read
more about the man in our feature online.
Kociuszko Monument
The wonder full y named
Stanisaw II August Pon-
i atowski ( bor n Count
Stanisaw Antoni Poni -
atowski ) was the l ast
Ki ng and Grand Duke
of t he Pol i sh- Li t hua-
ni an Commonweal t h
(1764-95). Hi s of fi ci al
ti tl e was, memorabl y,
Stanisaw August, by
the grace of God and
the will of the people
King of Poland, Grand
Duke of Lithuania and
Duke of Rutheni a,
Prussia, Masovia, Samogitia, Kiev, Volhynia,
Podolia, Podlasie, Livonia, Smolensk, Severia
and Chernihiv.
Born in Wolcyn (which today is in Belarus) in 1732,
Poniatowski first rose to prominence as an orator in the
nascent Polish parliament, the Sejm. Appointed ambas-
sador of Saxony to the court of Catherine the Great in
St. Petersburg in 1755, the tall, dashing Poniatowski
quickly became a regular lover of the insatiable Russian
Empress. When the Polish King August II died in 1763, it
was with Russian support that Poniatowski was elected
king, at the age of 32.
Opposed from the start by large numbers of the Pol-
ish nobility, on first appearances Poniatowskis three
decades on the throne do not look all that impressive.
He was powerless to prevent the first partition of the
Commonwealth in 1772 and relied heavily for much of
his reign on Russian patronage.
Yet he is remembered most for his championing of the
1791 Polish-Lithuanian Constitution: Europes first and
the worlds second (the United States had enacted the
first, in 1788) codified constitution. It greatly reduced the
power of the nobility, and introduced the idea of equality
amongst all citizens of the Commonwealth: noblemen,
townsfolk and peasants. Alas, the Commonwealth was
about to crumble, and the constitution came far too
late to save it.
Appall ed, the Polish nobili ty, under the flag of the
Targowi ca Federation and allied wi th Russian nobl es
keen to prevent similar i deas of equali ty infil trating
into Russia, launched a full scal e war (known, some-
what incorrectly, as the Polish-Russian War of 1791-2)
on Poniatowski. Betrayed by Prussia (whi ch had until
then been a keen all y), Poniatowski was defeated in
1792 and the consti tution expunged from the statue
book. The status quo ante-bellum was restored, and
Poniatowski managed to cling on as King until 1795
when the final parti tion of the Commonweal th forced
hi m to abdi cate. He fl ed to St. Petersburg, where
he li ved at the grace of Catheri ne until he di ed i n
1798. He was first buri ed at the Catholi c Church of
St. Catherine in St. Petersburg, his remains being
transferred to a church at Woczyn in 1938. In 1995,
in belated recogni tion of his rol e in creating the 1791
consti tution, he was formall y reburi ed at St. Johns
Cathedral in Warsaw.
Stanislaw Poniatowski
100
WHAT TO SEE
101
WHAT TO SEE
witokrzyski Bridge and on (C-2/3), ul. Karowa. The original
mermaid - or syrena in local parlance - stands in the Historical
Museum, and was crafted from bronze by the expert hand of
Ludwika Nitschowa (unfortunately the Historical Museum is
currently closed for renovations). Modelling for her was actress
Krystyna Krahelska, who was mortally injured on the first day
of the Uprising while working as a field nurse.
Tomb of the Unknown
Soldier (Grb Niezna-
nego onierza) B-3, Pl.
Pisudskiego. The only sur-
viving part of the destroyed
Saxon Palace. The palace was
constructed during the 17th
century though the tomb was
not added to the complex until
1925. Eerily, the tomb was the
only part of the structure to
survi ve being dynami ted by
the Nazis. The ashes of unknown soldiers from WWII have
been fittingly added.
To those deported and murdered in the East (Pom-
nik Polegym i Pomordowanym na Wschodzie)
E-1, intersection of Bonifraterska, Andersa and Mura-
nowska. Dating from 1995, and designed by Maksymilian
Biskupski, this monument remembers the victims of Soviet
aggression and all those deported to the wastes of Siberia.
Museums
Warsaw now has an ever more impressive selection of
museums dotted around and even older ones are getting
facelifts to bring the visitor experience into the 21st century.
There are still instances of poor or no English language ex-
planations but these are becoming less common. Without
doubt the big three places on your list should be the Uprising
Museum which charts the defining period in the history of
modern Warsaw; the Copernicus Science Centre which is the
citys most interactive and visitor friendly museum and the
Chopin Museum which is both interesting and Warsaws best
example of a modern museum experience. Most museums
listed present a cycle of temporary exhibitions, details of
which can be found in our culture and events section.
Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature (Muzeum
Literatury im. Adama Mickiewicza) B-1, Rynek
Starego Miasta 20, tel. (+48) 22 831 76 91, www.
muzeumliteratury.pl. Find out about the smart Alec who
inspired Romanticism in Poland. As well as having a number
of manuscripts and historical artefacts connected with
Mickiewicz, the museum also has exhibits connected with
other leading Polish writers. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Wed, Thu
11:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat. Admission
6/5z, Sun free for permanent exhibit only (closed every last
Sun of the month). Y
Car Museum (Muzeum Motoryzacji i Techniki)
ul. Warszawska 21, Otrbusy, tel. (+48) 22 758 50
67, www.muzeum-motoryzacji.com.pl. Heres one for the
car enthusiast. Born in 1995 this out-of-town museum (take
the train from Warszawa rdmiecie to Otrbusy) currently
has 300 motors on show, with a hilarious looking US made
Titan tractor from 1897 constituting the oldest piece of kit
on display. Then theres a Chrysler from 1927, a Merc truck
from 1913 and even cars once used by Monroe and Presley.
Its not just about western decadence though, with more than
a fleeting nod paid to ace communist creations such as the
Volga, Syrena and Skoda. Be sure to spot the parade car of
Josef Stalin and cars belonging to Lech Wasa and Gen.
Wojciech Jaruzelski, which are also on display. But this place
is more than just cars, and the weirdness also includes a
Polish 7TP tank, a Soviet T-34 tank which starred in a long-
running Polish serial called Czterej Pancerni i Pies (Four
tank men and a dog) WWII motorbikes, a curious looking
fighter plane contraption, red London bus and rusting engine
parts that deserve to be buried. Think thats all? Think again.
Theres been some serious hoarding going on here, with
salvaged detritus numbering rifles, lamps, bugles, suitcases
and street signs. Put simply, if you want to make a film, you
could do a lot worse than popping round here and pinching
some gear (precisely what Roman Polaski did when working
on his holocaust pic The Pianist). QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Admission 10/7z, children under 5 free. Y
Ethnographic Museum (Muzeum Etnograficzne)
B-3, ul. Kredytowa 1, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, www.
ethnomuseum.pl. Tragically overlooked by far too many
visitors to Warsaw (who cant see past World War II and
communism) this is a joy of a museum that showcases and
highlights all thats best about Polands cultural heritage.
There are costumes, handicrafts, furniture, Polish inventions,
art, photographs; most of it is beautifully presented in what
is a superb building. There are also exhibitions of African and
Australasian ethnographic art, and the museum is one of the
citys most active, putting on all sorts of temporary exhibitions
and organising hands-on events. Directors of Warsaws other
museums might want to come and take notes. Just brilliant,
and unquestionably essential. Do note that major renovation
is underway - to make the place even better - and so the
museum may be closed into February, and the temporary
exhibits will be suspended and only the permanent exhibi-
tions will be available for viewing. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri
10:00 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 12/6z, Sat free. Groups over 10 people 6z
per person. Children under 5 free. Y
Gallery of Paintings, Sculpture and the Decora-
tive Arts (Galeria Malarstwa, Rzeby i Sztuki
Zdobniczej) B-2, Pl. Zamkowy 4 (Royal Castle), tel.
(+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek-krolewski.pl. The east
wing of the Royal Castles main floor is now home to a per-
manent exhibition of various works of art that had formerly
been spread throughout the property, including two works
by Rembrandt: The Girl in a Picture Frame and The Scholar
at the Lectern. Both paintings were part of a major donation
of 37 works of art given by Countess Karolina Lanckoronska,
a Polish resistance fighter and concentration camp survivor
who, upon Polands return to independence in 1989, be-
queathed her familys art collection to the nation. The Castle
has done an impressive job of staging the artworks, with
muted walls and focused lighting keeping all the attention
on the various portraits of 16th and 17th century royalty like
Marie Antoinette and still life paintings of flower-filled boun-
ties. Theres also a room devoted to porcelain, tapestries
and glassware from the era. The Castles free admission on
Sundays have seen the new gallery overrun with visitors, so
serious art lovers will want to pay for the chance to wander
at a less harried pace. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00
- 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing.
Admission 20/15z, family ticket 10z per person. Sun free.
Presi denti al Pal ace C- 2, ul . Krakowski e
Przedmiecie 46/48. If pre-war Warsaw was considered
the Paris of the East then Krakowskie Przedmieie would
have been its Champs Elysees, its importance recognized
by the number of palaces, institutions, monuments and
churches that line it. Of those none are more important than
the Presidential Palace at number 46/48, that mysterious
fenced-off building guarded by stone lions and stern looking
soldiers. Construction on it started in 1643 at the behest of
Stanislaw Koniecpolski, though was only completed after
his death. It passed into the hands of various aristocratic
families and in the 18th century became famed for its ban-
quets - the most extravagant being held to commemorate
the coronation of Stanisaw II August Poniatowski in 1789;
over two million zoty was spent entertaining the 4,000
guests. Poniatowski was to prove one of the nations finest
monarchs and the Constitution of May 3, 1791, signed on
these very grounds, is recognized as Europes first - and
only the second in the world. A statue of Poniatowskis
brother, himself a military hero, was added to in 1965. Of its
residents none were more eccentric than General Zajczek,
a one legged Duke who was carried around in his armchair
by a team of simpering servants. His wife, an ageless look-
ing maiden, attributed her eternal youth to a strict diet that
banned any hot meals, and a rigorous set of guidelines that
included having pots of ice placed under her bed and freezing
cold baths. After 1818 it became the seat of the Viceroy of
the Polish Kingdom, and its halls entertained many a visiting
Tsar. In 1852 calamity struck and the palace was burned to
the ground. Reconstructed by Alfons Kropiwnicki the rebuilt
structure served as a home to the Agricultural Society, and
in 1879 Jan Matejkos epic painting The Battle of Grunwald
was put on display to an appreciative Warsaw public. Exten-
sively remodelled throughout the course of history one of its
biggest revamps came at the beginning of the 20th century
when one wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel
Bristol. When Poland regained its independence in 1918 it
was commandeered to serve as home of the Prime Minister
and his Council of Ministers. When Herman Goering visited
in 1937 he spent so much time pottering around admiring
the architectural details he was late for his appointment with
the Polish Foreign Minister. Amazingly it survived both the
1939 Siege of Warsaw and the Warsaw Uprising five years
later, though that did little to stop the authorities employing
Antoni Brusche and Antoni Jawornicki to give it a further
facelift. It saw more momentous events in 1955, this time
when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Unions answer to NATO
- was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as
the official home of the Polish president, which is exactly
why youll find streams of limos heading in and out, and
square jawed soldiers pointing their weapons at anyone who
strays too close. Interestingly enough, however, is the fact
that current president Bronisaw Komorowski does not live
there; instead he has chosen to reside at Belweder Palace
next to Lazienki Park.
Presidential Palace
Gestapo HQ (Mauzoleum Walki i Mczestwa)
G- 4, Al. Szucha 25, tel. (+48) 22 629 49 19, www.
muzeumniepodleglosci.art.pl. Every bit as disturbing
as Pawiak is the former Gestapo HQ, found on Al. Szucha
25. Built between 1927 and 1930, the buildings original
purpose was to serve as a centre for religious beliefs.
In 1939 it came under control of the Nazi regime, and
for the next five years became one of the most feared
addresses in Poland operating, among other capacities,
as a brutal interrogation centre. The imposing building,
currently housing the Ministry of Education, was left
untouched by the carnage of war and now also holds
a small but sobering museum within its bowels. Cells,
where prisoners were held prior to interrogation, have
been left largely as they were. Known as trams, Poles
would be sat on wooden benches facing the wall as they
awaited their fate. Forbidden to eat or sleep, they were
compelled to sit motionless in darkness, sometimes
for days on end. Failure to do so would lead to almost
certain death. The bullet marks scarring the walls tell
their own harrowing story. Although the torture cells
have long since been blocked off, the English language
tape that the curator plays paints a vivid and repulsive
picture. Prisoners were subjected to savage beatings,
attacked with dogs and electrocuted. Those who didnt
co-operate would, in some cases, be forced to watch
their own families being tortured. The office where
prisoners would have been checked in also remains,
complete with a faded portrait of Hitler and battered is-
sues of Wehrmacht magazine lying around. Manacles,
bullwhips and other sinister instruments can also be
seen stacked on the bookshel f. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00.
Admission 6/4z, ticket also admits you to Pawiak Prison
(ul. Dzielna 24/26).
Gestapo HQ
The Citadel (Cytadela) F-1, ul. Skazacw 25
(entrance from ul. Wybrzee Gdyskie), tel. (+48)
22 839 12 68, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.art.pl.
First off a tip. The entrance to the Citadel is on Wybrzeze
Gdyskie and is not that easy to find. Once you get there
you discover a complex built in the wake of the 1830 No-
vember Insurrection, and commissioned by Tsar Nicholas
I to serve as a fortress for the occupying Russian gar-
rison - and as a political prison and execution ground.
Housing as many as 16,000 troops, the main purpose
of the citadel was to deter and quash any patriotic
movement within the city. Of the 40,000 prisoners who
have passed through its gates, familiar names include
national hero Jzef Pisudski, communist agitator Red
Rosa Luxembourg and Feliks Dzieryski - the monster
who would progress to become head of the Russian
secret police. As well as being a supreme example of
19th century fortress architecture, the 36 hectare site
has several points of interest. The labyrinth of tunnels
and prison cells have been well preserved and contain
numerous exhibits, including paintings, prison relics and
firearms. Outside find a Nazi bunker dating from 1940, a
symbolic cemetery, and The Gate of Execution. Its here
on the nearby southern hillsides of the Citadel that Polish
heroes like Traugutt were executed in front of a crowd of
30,000 in 1864. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 6/4z, Sun free.
The Citadel
102
WHAT TO SEE
103
WHAT TO SEE
Krlikarnia G-7, ul. Puawska 113a, tel. (+48) 22
843 15 86, www.krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl. Krlikarnia,
which translates as the rabbit house, is a lavish palace in
Mokotw named for its role as King Augustus II the Strongs
rabbit warren for hunting. Built between 1782 and 1786, the
palace has been home to a number of interesting residents
including insurrecti on l eader Tadeusz Kociuszko and
Charles Thomatis, a man many believe acted as a pimp for
King Stanisaw August Poniatowski. Like much of Warsaw,
the palace was obliterated during the war but meticulously
rebuilt in 1964 and now operates as an art museum that
features the works of famed Polish sculptor and Auschwitz
survivor Xawery Dunikowski on the verdant park grounds
(you can keep an eye out for The Soul Escaping the Body,
a sculpture that is replicated on Dunikowskis tombstone).
Visitors can end their museum visit with a meal courtesy
of the caf (run by Lara Gessler, daughter of celebrity chef
Magda Gessler) which prepares picnics and offers blankets
for outdoor dining, a must considering its location on an
escarpment overlooking the Vistula. While the National
Museum is closed Krlikarnia will play host to a new array of
temporary exhibitions as well. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 8/4z, Thu free.
Maria Skodowska- Curie Museum (Muzeum
Marii Skodowskiej-Curie) B-1, ul. Freta 16, tel.
(+48) 22 831 80 92, http://muzeum.if.pw.edu.pl. Born
Maria Skodowska on November 7, 1867, and better known
to the world as Marie Curie, this small museum inside the
building she was born in contains a charming homage to the
life and work of the Nobel Prize-winning physicist. Artifacts on
display include many personal effects, such as original letters
and one of Curies black dresses, as well as a small collection
of scientific instruments. One room has been adapted as a
recreation of Curies laboratory. The lady who gave the world
so much, including the chemical element polonium, named
after the country of her birth, died in Savoy, France, on July 4,
1934, the victim of leukaemia, which she is believed to have
contracted during her many years of dangerous research.
QOpen 09:30 - 16:00, Tue 08:30 - 16:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00,
Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 11/6z. Group
ticket for more than 5 people 16z with film per person.
Mu s e u m o f I n d e p e n d e n c e ( Mu z e u m
Niepodlegoci) B-2, Al. Solidarnoci 62, tel. (+48)
22 826 90 91, www.muzeumniepodleglosci.art.pl.
Rather ironically, the museum that charts Polands struggle
for freedom was home to the Lenin Museum during commu-
nist rule. Celebrating Polish patriotism, the museum covers all
the key dates of Polish history, including the 1794 Kociuszko
Uprising, the 19th century insurrections, Pisudskis return to
Poland, WWII and the rise of Solidarity (though this last exhibit
is currently unavailable). The museum has also added two
new sections, one dedicated to national holidays through the
centuries and another to the countrys emblem and coat of
arms. Among the 48,000 exhibits are objects recovered from
WWII concentration camps, and some wonderful displays of
Socialist Realist artwork. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 6/4z. Sun free. Y
Museum of Poli sh Peoples Movement Al.
Wilanowska 204 (Mokotw), tel. (+48) 22 843 38 76,
www.mhprl.pl. Set in a neo-Renaissance villa designed by
Italian-born Mary Lanci the Museum of the Polish Peoples
Movement is an absolute must for museum diehards - just try
to find any other English-speaker whose been here (though
recently the museum has added some English brochures to
help non-Polish visitors). As the title suggests, everything
here is focused on Polish people/peasants, with the oldest
exhibit being a 17th century manuscript approved by King
Jan III Sobieski granting serfs a tax reduction. Most of these
scrolls, documents and papers will be lost on the foreign
visitor; making more sense are the printed materials, which
include election posters from the interwar years, as well as
decrees, ration cards and purchase vouchers supplied by
the occupying Nazis during WWII. Times under communism
are particularly well represented, and number stirring Soviet
chic posters encouraging hard work and high production. Very
Socialist Paradise indeed.
Patriotism plays a large part in understanding this oddity,
and art fans will be pleased to find a series of paintings
depicting peasants in full battle, including of course Tadeusz
Kosiuszko doing his bit against the Russkies. Stamps,
flags, medals and caricatures, theyre all here, as well as a
great little war-themed section which presents bayonets,
armbands worn by peasant fighters during WWII, first aid
kits and a typewriter and printing contraption used in the
creation of subversive press. Q Open 08:30-15:30, Sat,
Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 2/1z. Thu free. Y
Museum of Priest Jerzy Popieuszko (Muzeum
Bogosawionego Ks. Jerzego Popeuszki) ul.
Kardynaa Stanisawa Hozjusza 2 (oliborz), tel. (+48) 22
561 00 56, www.popieluszko.net.pl. Youd probably think
a museum honouring a priest doesnt sound like much fun,
and indeed this place really isnt. However, it is a very decent
detour if you happen to be in the oliborz area, and thats
because Father Jerzy was no ordinary priest. Popieuszko
came to national attention in the early 80s for his fierce anti-
communist rhetoric, and with close ties to Radio Free Europe
and Solidarity it wasnt long till he fell foul of the internal security
services. In 1984, with Poland in political chaos, they decided
to get rid of him altogether. A car accident was set up for this
purpose, though Popieuszko somehow survived unscathed.
Six days later he was abducted, beaten and murdered, his
corpse dumped in a reservoir. His funeral drew a crowd of
250,000 mourners and made headlines the world over. Today
the basement of his former parish church has been turned into
a museum to remember not just his life, but the whole struggle
for post-war freedom. Newssheets printed by the underground,
banners from the Solidarity strikes and pictures of the funeral
are among the many items on display, as are the clothes he
was wearing when he was kidnapped. Particularly poignant is
a curved wall, its bricks inscribed with the names of martyrs
dealt with by security services between 1981 and 1989.
QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon,
Tue. Donations welcome.
Museum of Sports and Tourism (Muzeum Sportu i
Turystyki) ul. Wybrzee Gdyskie 4 (oliborz), tel. (+48)
22 560 37 80, www.muzeumsportu.waw.pl. Not long back
museums in Poland were largely dusty affairs with stupid hours
and hawk like curators ensuring fingers and noses were kept
well away from the glass. Well heres the new face of sightsee-
ing, a spanking new glass building that could well have been
sent down from space. Cynics might say a seven floor Olympic
Centre is largely wasted on the Poles, a nation which hasnt
exactly dominated the planet in the field of sport. This place is
here to prove the naysayers wrong, with over 47,000 exhibits
testifying to Polands contribution to recreation.
The exhibition starts off with a passing glance to Ancient
Greece, with Greco busts and murals celebrating the early
pioneers of games, before moving off in more patriotic di-
rection and leaning towards the more Polski side of things.
Included are old penny farthing bicycles as well as trophies
and memorabilia from the Warsaw Rowing Association, ap-
parently the oldest sports organization in town.
Split into various zones (inter-war years, 70s glory years, Salt Lake
City etc), this is more than just a thorough look at Polish sport,
azienki Park &
Palace (azienki
Krlewskie) G- 4,
ul. Agrykoli 1, tel.
(+48) 22 506 01
01, www.lazienki -
krolewskie.pl. The
park and palace com-
plex where half of War-
saw descends on a Sunday to take the traditional family
stroll. Notable features amid the landscaped gardens in-
clude the art-deco Chopin monument (1926), the palace
on the water (remodelled in 1792), an old orangery and a
classicist amphitheatre loosely inspired by Herculaneum.
The 74 hectare site originally served as the residence of
Stanisaw August Poniatowski - Polands last monarch.
In spite of sporadic damage, much of the dynamite laid
by Nazi troops failed to destroy the buildings. Q Open
09:00 - 16:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00-18:00. Closed Mon.
Park open from dawn till dusk. Guided tours please
book 3 days in advance. Admission 15/10z, Thu free.
Guides 90z per group up to 20 people. To book call
22 50 60 170.
Mokotowskie Field (Pole Mokotowskie) E-5.
Penned in by the districts of Mokotw, Ochota and
rdmiecie this park represents prime real estate, and
right now much of the land is subject to sky-high bods
from nasty real estate developers. Hands off we say,
and not just because drinking in Pole Mokotowskies
countless bars is one of the highlights of summer. Prior
to WWII it was used as a military parade ground, and
then from 1910, one of Europes first airports. It was here
that the Polish aviators wirko and Wigura began many
of their aerial adventures, and by 1921 passenger flights
linking Warsaw with Paris (via Prague and Strasbourg)
were commonplace. The opening of Okcie Airport in
1933 sounded the death knell for the airport, and today
it serves as a popular summer spot for suburbanites,
as well the venue for public events such as the annual
Earth Festival.
The Saxon Garden (Ogrd Saski) B-2/3, be-
tween ul. Marszakowska and ul. Krlewska. Opened
to the public in 1727 Saski Park ranks as one of the oldest
public parks in the world, and was originally designed in
a French style, before being changed to follow English
aesthetics in the 19th century. Originally part of the Saski
Palace complex highlights include a sundial dating from
1863, and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier; the only
surviving part of the Palace. Although wrecked by Nazi
miscreants in 1944 many of trees in the park survived,
and its possible to find ones dating from a quarter of a
millennium ago. An empire style fountain designed by
Marconi in 1855 stands close to the bottom corner of
the park, and other points of interest include a memo-
rial honouring Warsaw residents killed during WWII, and
a statue of Stefan Starzyski, the citys mayor at the
outbreak of WWII who was later to become another
statistic of Dachau concentration camp.
Ujazdowski Park G-4. Not as grand as the nearby
azienki, its still a pleasant place to walk the dog and
get up to other typical Sunday pastimes. It stands under
the imposing shadow of Ujazdowski Castle which was
rebuilt in the 1970s.
Parks
Augsburg Lutheran Cemetery (Cmentarz
ewangelicko-augsburski) D-2, ul. Mynarska
54/56/58. Designed by Szymon Bogumi Zug in 1792
this treasure contains the elaborate tombs of countless
movers and shakers. Those interred include Samuel
Bogumi Linde - author of Polands first dictionary - and
Polands version of the Willie Wonka family: the Wedels.
Highlights include a cast iron chapel dating from 1821.
Calvinist Reformed Cemetery (Cmentarz
ewangelicko-reformowany) D-2, ul. ytnia 42,
tel. (+48) 22 632 03 30. As well as containing the
remains of writer Stefan eromski, this cemetery is also
the resting place of the youngest victim of Pawiak Prison
and the then Gestapo regime, Kaj Silversjold aged six
months. Be sure to check out the Teutonic style inscrip-
tions on some of the graves. Looming over it all is the
Kronenburg mausoleum, a striking necropolis built for
one of Warsaws most famed industrialists. Q Open from
08:00 till dusk, Sat, Sun from 09:00 till dusk.
Italian Military Cemetery (Cmentarz onierzy
Woskich) ul. Marymoncka (Bielany). Originally es-
tablished in 1926 the Italian cemetery holds the bodies of
868 soldiers killed on Polish territory during WWI, and a
further 1,415 killed during the course of WWII. Maintained
by the Italian Embassy the cemetery features an entry
gate complete with legionnaire shields, and a central
avenue leading to a grandiose monument.
Northern Cemetery (Cmentarz Komunalny
Pnocny) ul. Wycickiego 14 (Bielany), tel. (+48)
22 834 48 08. One of Europes largest cemeteries, and
a relatively new addition to the city. Created in 1973 this
vast graveyard contains over 135,000 graves, including
those of poet Edward Stachura, German WWII casual-
ties, and the bodies of those killed in Polands biggest
air disaster - the 1980 LOT plane crash just outside the
city limits. Q Open from dawn till dusk.
Powzki Catholic Cemetery (Cmentarz
Powzki) D-1, ul. Powzkowska 14, tel. (+48) 22
838 55 25. Warsaws biggest, oldest and most beauti-
ful cemetery. Famous corpses include the poet Leopold
Staff, aviators wirko and Wigura, and Nobel prize
winner Wadysaw Reymont. It also contains the grave
of Stefan Starzyski, the mayor of Warsaw at the time
of the German invasion. His body was never recovered
after he was detained by the Gestapo. Vast areas of
the cemetery are taken up by Home Army soldiers killed
during the Uprising. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00.
Soviet War Cemetery (Cmentarz Mauzoleum
onierzy Radzieckich) E-6, Al. wirki i Wigury
10. Dominated by a huge needle like monument this
is one of the first Warsaw landmarks seen on the way
from the airport. The towering monument features some
interesting socialist reliefs depicting Red Army troops
liberating Polish civilians, and the inscription reads To
the memory of the soldiers lost in the liberation of Poland
1944-1945. Mass graves containing the remains of
20,000 soldiers flank each side of the memorial.
Warsaw Upri si ng Cemetery (Cmentarz
Powstacw Warszawy) ul. Wolska 174/176
(Wola). Approximately 40,000 participants in the 44
Uprising are buried here, their resting places marked with
wood graves and red and white sashes.
Cemeteries
104
WHAT TO SEE
105
WHAT TO SEE
its the final word. Film reels and sound effects compliment
often hilarious pictures (moustached supermen from bygone
times triumphantly lifting dumbbells). However this is no circus
sideshow, and it soon becomes clear that the Poles have a
proud and distinguished history across all fields, something
apparent in the Olympic Hall of Fame which features scores of
medals. Heroes such as ex Man City legend Kazimierz Deyna
and ski champ Adam Maysz are all celebrated, and the vast
collection even has room for a kayak once used by Pope John
Paul II to row around the Mazurian Lakes. QOpen 09:15 - 17:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 10/6z. Sat free.
Polish Army Museum (Muzeum Wojska Pol-
skiego) C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, tel. (+48) 22 629
52 71, www.muzeumwp.pl. The chronological history of
the Polish army is presented in a series of gloomy rooms.
Suits of armour, crossbows, muskets, medals and paintings
pack this museum, though the scarcity of English-language
explanations mean youll need to hire an English-speaking
guide to get the most out of the place. The room at the end
is dedicated to Polands role in WWII, with specific empha-
sis on the Warsaw Uprising. Curiously, the best part of the
museum is actually free of charge: the outdoor collection of
20th century weaponry includes an array of tanks, missiles,
aircraft and rocket launchers. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Wed
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 10/5z, groups over 10 people 4z
per person, Sun free. Tours with audioguide 17/10z.
Tourist Information (Stoeczne Biuro Turysty-
ki) ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 194
31, www.warsawtour.pl. Located in the arrivals hall of
the new part of the airport, the point is small but has all
the necessary guides and maps you might need including
In Your Pockets. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
Tourist Information (Stoeczne Biuro Tu-
rystyki) A/B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 54 (Warszawa
Centralna Train Station), tel. (+48) 22 194 31,
www.warsawtour.pl. Tourism information along with
plenty of brochures and maps to get new arrivals at
Centralna oriented to the city found inside the Service
Point in the main hall. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Tourist Information (Stoeczne Biuro Turysty-
ki) B-4, Palace of Culture, Pl. Defilad 1 (entrance
from ul. Emilii Plater), tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www.
warsawtour.pl. This central tourist information office
is inside the Palace of Culture (if you exit central station
on the Zote Tarasy shopping complex side and cross
over the road youll see it). Inside you can choose from
a series of guides as well as buy some souvenir books
and gifts. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.
Touri st Inf ormati on B- 2, ul . Krakowski e
Przedmiecie 15/17 (Kordegarda), tel. (+48) 22
194 31, www.warsawtour.pl. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon.
Tourist Information (Stoeczne Biuro Tu-
rystyki) B-2, Rynek Starego Miasta 19/21/21a,
tel. (+48) 22 194 31, www.warsawtour.pl. Find
this point on the Market Square of Old Town where you
can pick up maps, guides, book tours and buy gifts and
souvenirs. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Tourist information
Palmiry - The National Memorial Museum
(Muzeum - Miejsce Pamici Palmiry) Palmiry,
tel. (+48) 22 720 81 14, www.palmiry.mhw.pl. This
brand new and highly recommended museum in the
forest outside Warsaw significantly ups the standard
for how a small exhibit can pack a huge punch. A little
history: during World War II the forests of Palmiry and
Kampinos became a refuge for those fleeing the destruc-
tion in Warsaw (many Home Army soldiers regrouped
in the woods). It also became the site for 21 separate
mass executions performed by German soldiers against
1,700 Poles and Jews, many of whom were academic and
cultural figures. Inside this well-organized modern block
visitors will see how the Poles used the forest for train-
ing and hiding weapons, and how the Germans turned
their refuge into a killing field. Information boards clearly
explain what happened in the forest (these are some of
the best English translations weve seen) and displays
include exhumed items like documents and photos, even
sections of trees with ammunition still buried in their
bark. A video re-enacts how German soldiers system-
atically marched civilians to their deaths, and the tour
ends with an endless audio loop that reads the names
of the victims. Outside visitors will see a giant cemetery
of marked and unmarked crosses (the museum also
describes the exhumation process that took place in
the forest) dedicated to the victims. While the museum
is mainly dedicated to what happened in the forests
during World War II it also makes note of the fact that
Poles have taken to these woods during the Kosciuszko
Uprising in 1794, the November Uprising in 1831 and the
January Uprising in 1863. Getting to the museum from
Warsaw normally involves a subway trip that connects
to a slightly stomach-churning 45-minute bus ride, but
in winter there is no bus service so unfortunately a car
is your only option. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00, Thu 10:00 -
15:30. Closed Mon. Admission free. Guided tours please
book in advance.
Palmiry
Railway Museum (Muzeum Kolejnictwa) E-3, ul.
Towarowa 1, tel. (+48) 22 620 04 80, www.muzkol.pl.
Two large rooms full of working and static models of classic
and modern trains, large train sets, a display of uniforms
and a huge collection of old engines in all possible conditions
through the door in the room on the right. Make a point to
head outside where you will find one of the few (if not only)
remaining armoured railway trains in Europe. Heaven if you
like this kind of thing although there was depressingly little
English explanation. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Mon 10:00 -
14:00. Admission 10/6z. Children under 7 free. English/
German guide available to rent for 40z per 1 hr. on Monday
by prior arrangement.
The Armoury - Archeological Muzeum (Arsena-
Pastwowe Muzeum Archeologiczne w Warsza-
wie) A-2, ul. Duga 52, tel. (+48) 22 504 48 00, www.
pma.pl. Housed inside the citys former Royal Arsenal, this
somewhat infuriating museum was opened in 1923 and
looks like it hasnt been touched since. Tracing the history
of the region through the use of some nice recreations of
early dwellings and the usual skeletons and pots, the two
floors that make up the museum do, it must be said, pos-
sess one of two rather good things to see, and better still,
English descriptions have at long last been added to some
(but by no means all) displays. The entrance incidentally is
tucked away conveniently on the far (northern) side of the
building. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Fri. Admission 10/5z, Sun free.
Ujazdowski) G- 4, ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628
64 08, www.csw.art.pl. Completed in a baroque style in
1730, Ujazdowski was gutted by fire during WWII. Though
the original walls and foundations remained structurally
sound the communist authorities decided to tear down the
shell of the building with the intention of building a military
theatre on the site. Common sense prevailed and the 1970s
saw Ujazdowski rebuilt following its original style. Used as
a military hospital in the years leading up to the war, it now
has three large exhibition halls dedicated to showcasing the
very best of contemporary art; find a wild mix of the good,
the bad and the ugly, featuring the work of Polands leading
contemporary artists. Worthy and undoubtedly necessary,
the gallery also houses a very good bookshop and a caf.
QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Last
entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/6z,
Thu free.
Wola Museum F-3, ul. Srebrna 12, tel. (+48) 22
624 37 33, www.muzeumwoli.mhw.pl. Home to nearly
150,000 people Wola is that great big district to the west
of the centre, and this museum is here to document Wolas
history from 1374 till the present. Run as a branch of the
Historical Museum of Warsaw, the museum comes housed
in a grey looking neo-renaissance palace dating from 1880,
with the building indelibly printed in the (mis)fortunes of the
district; its here that the 3rd company of Chrobry II division
of the Home Army (Polands underground military movement)
held their headquarters during the days of the Warsaw Upris-
ing. Operating as a museum since 1974 the collection here
features over 5,000 film, cultural and propaganda posters,
and a huge collection of posh pre-war silverware that includes
a caviar box made by Schiffers and weird looking forks for
scoffing crabs. Life before 1939 is documented well through
a series of black and white photos showing Wola before it
was raped by Dirlewanger (see Warsaw Uprising section),
as well as busts and portraits of the fat cat industrialists
who once lived here.
P a w i a k P r i s o n
(Wi zi eni e Pawi ak)
A- 2, ul. Dzielna 24/26,
tel. (+48) 22 831 92 89,
www. muzeumni epodl e-
glosci.art.pl. Bui l t i n the
1830s to serve as a Tsar-
ist prison, Pawiak came to
the fore during WWII when
i t sl i pped i nto the hands
of the Gestapo. During the
Nazi occupation i t became
the largest political prison in
Poland and saw over 100,000 inmates pass through
its gates. Of this number, over 37,000 were executed
within the grounds, while a further 60,000 were trans-
ported to extermination camps. Subterranean cells
designed to house three people were often crammed
with anything up to 18 prisoners. Dynamited during
the German retreat, Pawiak has been restored as a
memorial to all those who suffered inside, and now
houses haunting photo displays, prisoners belongings
and reconstructed cells. A mangled tree, preserved
after the war, stands outside the gates bedecked with
obi tuary noti ces dating from 1944. QOpen 10:00
- 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 6/4z, ticket
allows you to visit Gestapo HQ (Al. Szucha 25) also.
Pawiak Prison
Royal Castle (Zamek Krlewski) B-2, Pl.
Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek-
krolewski.pl. More a palace than a castle, this building
is the pride of Warsaw, reconstructed from a pile of rubble
at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the
furniture was donated by now deceased commie buddies
such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money for
rebuilding came from generous donations from exiled
Poles. Dating back from the 14th century, the castle has
been the residence of Polish kings, then of the president
and then the seat of parliament. The prescribed tour will
take you through the Kings apartments and chambers,
heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish mo-
ments. Maps on the wall reflect Polands greatest days,
when it stretched from the Baltic to the Black Sea. The
apartments of Jozef Poniatowski have recently been
opened to the public, though unfortunately none of the
accompany descriptions are in English. The rooms are still
a worthwhile part of the tour, if for no other reason than to
see the Princes surprisingly cerulean bedroom and grand
collection of paintings. Some of the halls are reputed to
be intermittently haunted by a white lady. According to
legend her appearance signals imminent disaster. The
nearby chapel boasts an urn containing the heart of Polish
hero and freedom fighter, Tadeusz Kocuiszko. Next on
the tour, the Houses of Parliament. Last but not least, the
opulent Great Assembly Hall has so much gold stuck to the
walls, its hard to resist the temptation to scratch some
off - just a bit, they wouldnt notice. Behave or get accosted
by vigilant wardens and enjoy the views across the river
to the Praga district instead. Q Open 10:00-16:00, Sun
11:00-16:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before
closing. Admission 22/15z, family ticket 14z per person.
Sun free. Poniatowski apartments 14/7zl, family ticket 6zl
per person. Sun free. Y
Royal Castle
106
WHAT TO SEE
107
PKIN
Follow POLANDIYP on
Palace of Culture and Science (PKiN) (Paac
Kultury i Nauki) B-4, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656
76 00, www.pkin.pl. Dont let the name fool you - this is not
the cultural hub of Warsaw. That said, however long youre in
the city for this is a must-see to experience Soviet Warsaw.
For all the aggressive westernisation that has overcome
Warsaw, the four decades of communism have yet to be
completely erased from the face of Warsaw.. You couldnt
miss this hulking giant of a landmark if you tried. Soaring 231
metres into the sky the building remains the tallest in Poland,
in spite of recent competition from its highrise neighbours.
Originally commissioned by Stalin as a gift from the Soviet
people the structure actually takes its inspiration from the
capitalist world, namely the Empire State Building, but, be-
lieve it or not, was specifically designed to include influences
from all of Polands architectural styles. Stalin had sent a
secret delegation to New York to learn both about the building
and American construction methods, though the outbreak
of WWII meant that it wasnt until 1952 that his architects
were able to commence putting their knowledge into prac-
tice. Lev Rudynev, the brains behind the equally monstrous
Lomonosov University in Moscow, was put in the charge of
the design, and set about making the building into one of the
most notorious examples of Socialist Realist architecture in
the world. Over 5,000 workers were ferried in from the Soviet
states and housed in a purpose-built village in Jelonki, west
Warsaw, where they were effectively cut off from the outside
world. Working around the clock, it took them just three years
to complete the Palace. In all 16 died during the construction,
though despite the Olympian efforts of the labourers Stalin
never lived to see his pet project completed.
Built using an estimated 40 million bricks and housing 3,288
rooms the Palaces purpose was to serve as not just party
headquarters but also the peoples castle, with invitations
to the annual New Years Eve Ball issued to the best workers
in socialist Poland. Regardless of this the building became an
object of hatred and a stain on the skyline; like the imperialist
Nevsky Cathedral that once stood on pl. Pisudskiego, the palace
was seen as no more than a symbol of Russian hegemony.
Viewed from a distance - apparently it can be spotted from
30km away - the palace appears a faceless monolith. Viewed
closely several intricate details appear in focus. Under Stalins
orders architects travelled around Polands key cultural sights,
from Wawel to Zamo, observing Polish architectural tradi-
tions, hence the numerous crenulations, courtyards and motifs.
Once inside the ground floor becomes a maze of halls and
corridors, with chambers named after Eastern icons - Yuri
Gagarin, Marie Skodowska-Curie (a famous communist sym-
pathiser) etc. Brass chandeliers hang over clacking parquet
flooring, secret lifts lie hidden around and allegorical socialist
reliefs take inspiration from ancient mythology - its easy to
imagine Bond snooping around planting listening devices.
Several conference rooms still hold original translators
booths, complete with huge dials and buttons. The crowning
glory of the ground floor is the Sala Kongresowa, a decadent
red theatre space apparently inspired by La Scala. Holding
2,880 its original use was to host party conferences, though
through the years it became better known as a concert venue
- hosting acts as diverse as the Rolling Stones in 1967, to
the Chippendales in 2006.
Gi ven that the buil ding boasts over 3300 rooms there is
not a l ot to see, unl ess youre into conference facili ti es,
so visi tors are best directed to the terrace on the 30th
fl oor. To get there youll need to buy a ti cket for 20z,
when you will then be shepherded into an ol d-styl e li ft,
in whi ch you will be escorted by a l ovel y li ft attendant
who has probabl y been doing the j ob since the buil ding
opened. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Admission for the viewing
l evel is 20/15z. Group ti cket for more than 10 peopl e
12z per person.
Museum of Technology (Muzeum Techniki)
B- 4, Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), tel. (+48) 22 656 67 47,
www.muzeum-techniki.waw.pl. A vast collection dedi-
cated to the history of everything technol ogi cal insi de
the equall y enormous Palace of Cul ture & Sci ence, the
onl y thing missing here is a map. Trul y huge, and cl earl y
lai d out by somebody wi th a sadisti c sense of humour,
the scores of rooms scattered will y nill y and organised
wi th what appears to be a contemptuous di sregard
for reason and l ogi c, hi ghli ghts include a caval cade of
impossi bl e-l ooking motorbikes and aeroplanes, a room
packed wi th 19th century musi cal boxes, histori cal cars
li ke a 1936 Lux-Sport li mousi ne chassis and a small
exhi bi tion cel ebrating space expl oration that coul d do
with some serious updating. Decorated with lace curtains
and staf fed by an army of si nister-l ooki ng ol d ladi es,
you won t l earn a thing no matter how hard you try, but
i ts a strangel y rewarding experi ence that reall y has to
be seen to be beli eved. QOpen 08:30 - 16:30, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 17:00. Cl osed Mon. Admission 12/6z. Gui ded
tours for up to 25 peopl e 50z.
exhibition: a pitch-black series of rooms that force you to rely
on your other senses to get by (were not kidding about the
darkness level; be prepared). Youll visit an art gallery, a bar
and take a walk outside while the guides ask questions about
what youre encountering - youll be listening for the swoosh
of cars before crossing the street, or feeling a sculpture to
discern what kind of art it is. If you bring along change the
guide will even serve you a drink in the completely dark bar.
An eye-opening experience that will have you thinking heavily
about what you take for granted. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Last entrance 75 minutes before closing.
Admission 21-25/16-22z, family ticket 57-66z.
The Eastern Wall Reeling from near total annihilation the
post-war years saw Warsaw emerge as Europes biggest
brickyard as it struggled to rebuild itsel f from the ashes.
Initially the buzzword for architects in the region was Social-
ist Realism, a severe style following strict guidelines from
a Soviet masterplan. The death of Stalin in 1953 changed
all that and architects looked to the west for inspiration, a
disastrous move that saw all manner of brutalist monstrosi-
ties rise from the ruins. The competition in Warsaw is fierce,
but probably nastiest of the lot is the development dubbed
the Eastern Wall (ciana Wschodnia), a collection of buildings
and tower block running from Rondo Dmowskiego (B-4) to ul.
witokrzyska (B-3). Architect Zbigniew Karpiski - the guy who
also designed the bunker like US Embassy on ul. Pikna - won
the competition to rebuild the area and set about remodelling
the centre of Warsaw with the zealous glee of a complete
nutter. Construction kicked off in 1962 and was completed
seven years later, the result being four department stores, the
Rotunda bank building, a blockish office building behind it, a
cinema, and even a nightclub. Towering over it all were three
residential blocks situated on Switokrzyska (85 metres),
Zgoda (87 metres) and Chmielna (81 metres). Originally hailed
a work of genius the Eastern Wall soon became a bit of rusty
elephant, crippled and blackened with age and neglect. The
collapse of communism breathed new life into the complex -
Polands first McDonalds was opened at the witokrzyska
end of the complex, while the office block behind the Rotunda
temporarily held the title for having the largest billboard in the
world. More recently steps have been taken to polish up the
area with shining glass frontages added to the department
stores, and granite floored pedestrian walkways and modern
tubular lighting added to the section behind the Jerozolimskie
end. But snoop behind the area around McDs and youll find a
glorious blast to the past, with smashed pavements, useless
bare-lit supermarkets and a couple of cafes selling ersatz
coffee to hunched old men smoking cigarettes by the fistful.
The Palm C-4, Rondo de Gaullea. More observant visitors
are at some stage going to come across a great big palm tree
planted in the middle of a traffic island. So, whats it all about
eh? Standing on the intersection between Nowy wiat and Al.
Jerozolimskie itll come as little surprise that its part of a modern
art project, awarded the title of Greetings from Jersualem. First
off, the tree is not actually a tree, rather a steel column (spe-
cially designed so it can bend in the wind), covered with natural
bark and leaves made from polyethylene. Its the work of artist
Joanna Rajkowska who during a trip to Israel was struck by the
brainwave of sticking a palm tree up in Warsaw to add some
sunny cheer. Manufactured in California the project sent city hall
into a spin, its baffled bureaucrats not knowing what the devil to
do with it; seeing that it wasnt a tree, building nor a monument
there was nothing in their big book of rules directing what to do
with it. Eventually it was unveiled to a curious Warsaw public on
December 12, 2002. The populace liked this surprise Christmas
present so much it became a permanent fixture, as well as the
occasional sleeping habitat of returning clubbers too trollied to
figure they havent stumbled on a desert oasis.
The war changed Wola forever, and these times are remem-
bered by way of photographs of the Ghetto, as well as bits
and pieces donated by veterans of the Warsaw Uprising;
among these personal papers, medals, helmets, radios
and sketches of post-Uprising incarceration. QOpen 11:00
- 18:00, Wed, Fri 10:00 - 15:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 3,50/2,50z, Thu free. Groups over
10 people 3z per person.
Places of interest
NEW
Invisible Exhibition (Niewidzialna Wystawa) A-4,
Al. Jerozolimskie 123a, tel. (+48) 504 32 44 44, www.
niewidzialna.pl. Would you pay good money for an exhibition
you cant see? Thats the idea behind Niedwidzialna Wystawa
(The Invisible Exhibition), which takes visitors into the world
of the sightless. The roughly hour-long tours are helmed by
guides who know of what they speak: all are partially or com-
pletely blind themselves. Tours begin with several stations
that help get you acclimated to the challenges blind people
face daily. Youll get to tap on a Braille typewriter, test out
gadgets that help the sightless do tasks in the kitchen, and
try to solve simple puzzles while wearing a blindfold. Once
youre sufficiently awed by your inability to do even minor
tasks the guide leads the group into the main portion of the
Ronald Reagan Monu-
ment (Pomnik Ron-
alda Reagana) C- 4,
Al. Ujazdowskie. A large
bronze statue of U.S. Presi-
dent Ronald Reagan now
calls Warsaw home after
an unveiling in November
2011 that included former
Polish President and Soli-
darity leader Lech Wasa.
The large 3.5-metre monu-
ment portrays Reagan, who
was the 40th president of
the United States and held
of fi ce from 1981-1989,
when he stood at a podium
at Berlins Brandenburg gate and declared, Mr. Gor-
bachev, tear down this wall, back in 1987.
So why are the Poles using their valuable bronze on the Gip-
per? In Poland Reagan is considered one of the 20th cen-
turys most important leaders thanks to his long-standing
opposition to communism. During Reagans Christmas
address in 1981 he cited the persecution of the Solidarity
trade union by the countrys communist government as
evidence that the regime was waging war against its
own people. That holiday season candles were put in the
windows of the White House to show Reagans support of
the Solidarity movement and the Polish people.
Reagans continued poli cy of vi gorousl y promoting
democracy and condemning communism is credited
as hastening the dissolution of the Soviet Union, and
along with Pope John Paul II he was a strong supporter
of Wasas campaign for presidency in 1990. During the
unveiling ceremony Wasa noted his belief that without
Reagan Poland wouldnt be a free nation today. The
statue, which was created by Polish sculptor Wadysaw
Dudek, can be found across the street from the United
States embassy.
Ronald Reagan Monument
Courtesy of U.S. Embassy
in Warsaw
108
109
Old Town (Stare Miasto) B-1/2. The Old Town is a
labyrinth of winding streets and squares full of olde worlde
charm. While it was entirely rebuilt after the Warsaw upris-
ing of 1944, it is well worth a visit to get lost amongst the
cobbles and tastefully recreated facades. Souvenirs ranging
from the tasteless - baseball hats and fridge magnets, paint-
ings of coquettish horses - to the tasteful - amber, lace and
ceramics - are best found here, though at premium tourist
prices. The best thing about the Old Town, however, is the
tangible sense of Polish pride in their city and if nothing else,
its a great place to relax with a beer and indulge in an hour
or two of nun spotting.
When US General Dwi ght Ei senhower vi si ted Warsaw
immediately after the war he was moved to comment, I
have seen many towns destroyed, but nowhere have I
been faced with such destruction. Buried under twenty
million cubic metres of rubble the city resembled a shat-
tered shell; over hal f the population had been killed, and
85% of the city razed to the ground. The Old Town had
been hit with particular Nazi efficiency, and by the time
the Red Army rolled across the river it was little more than
a smouldering heap of bricks. To their credit the Capital
Reconstruction Bureau chose to rebuild the historic centre,
a painstaking process that would last until 1962. Using
pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs the Ol d
Town was carefully rebuilt, though only at the considerable
expense of Polands recovered territories. Szczecin, for
instance, was coerced into demolishing many of its historic
buildings in order to donate an estimated 27 million bricks
to the Warsaw rebuilding program. So too Wrocaw, which
at one stage was sending a staggering one million bricks
to Warsaw per day; He who loves Wrocaw, loves Warsaw
as well pined a propaganda tune of the era. But forget the
other cities, look at the results in front of you. Although
its barely hal f a century old Warsaws historic quarter is
an architectural miracle, and a breathing tribute to a city
that refused to die.
Most visits to the Old Town begin on plac Zamkowy (B-2),
and i f youre Polish then right under the statue of Zygmunt.
There isnt a more popular meeting spot in the city, and
theres not a minute of the day when the steps to the
statue arent besieged by dating couples or banjo playing
irritants. Erected in 1644 by Zygmunt IIIs son, Wadysaw
IV, the twenty two metre column was originally designed by
Italian architects Augustyn Locci and Constantino Tencalla,
and the figure of Zygmunt ranks as Polands second oldest
monument - beaten into runners up spot by the Neptun
Fountain in Gdask. Local legend asserts that Zygmunt
rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occur-
rence that was first reported during the 1794 Kociuszko
Uprising and again during WWII. One fact that cant be
disputed is his good fortune. With the Warsaw Uprising in
full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and
came crashing down. Amazingly Zygmunt survived, losing
only his sword, and he was returned to a new perch in 1949.
The column he fell off is still knocking around as well, and
you can find it lying on its side within spitting distance of
the Royal Castle.
Moving forward head down witojaska to run a gauntlet of
buskers, ice cream queues and shoe shine boys. Somewhere
amid the melee youll spot the Cathedral (see Churches), well
worth popping into, not least to check out the Baruczkowski
Crucifix - a 16th century cross renowned for its mysterious
powers. Famed in particular for its crypt this neo-Gothic
masterpiece also contains artworks courtesy of Wit Stwosz,
as well as tank tracks on the exterior wall recovered from a
remote-controlled German tank used to attack the cathedral
in 1944. The overall effect is quite something, so its no
surprise many people bypass the Jesuit Church right next
door, a super renaissance building described in detail in our
Churches section.
Its hard to believe that by the end of 1944 all before you
was just a skeletal set of ruins, but thats exactly what it
was. Evidence of this can be viewed on ul. Zapiecka where
some black and white photographs show aerial views of the
war time devastation. The Old Towns subsequent inclusion
on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1980 is remembered
in the form of some cobbled stones set into the ground. As
tempting as it is to make a beeline for the main square, the
Rynek, save yourself for now. Head instead down ul. Piwna,
or Beer Street as it translates. Although theres no evidence
of the 15th century breweries that once thrived here you will
find a couple of half decent hostelries, though the real reason
many visit this street is for a glimpse of St. Martins Church
on ul. Piwna 9/11. This place was utterly annihilated during
the war, and the only fragment to survive was a half-burned
figure of Jesus. Since its inception the church has always
been linked with theological and political dissent, and this
was never more true than in the period of Martial Law, when
Solidarity supporters would convene here for both worship
and secret meetings. As with the rest of Old Town, the real
beauty of Piwna lies in the details - check out the elaborate
paintings and gargoyles that peer from the facades, and
dont miss the portal at number 6. Known locally as Pod
Gobiami (Under the pigeons - and housing a restaurant
called Karmnik, this place acquired its name after the war,
when a batty old woman settled in the ruins and made it her
calling to look after the flocks of pigeons that stalked around
the post-war debris.
OLD TOWN
Back outsi de take stock of one of Polands finest town
squares. In the 15th century this was occupied by a town
hall, though this was pull ed down in 1817 and never re-
placed. Instead, today youll find a couple of water pumps
dating from the 19th century, as well as Warsaws best
l oved monument - Syrenka. Cast in 1855 this mermaids
form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms youll find
in the capi tal. Youre also liabl e to run into a platoon of
street artists. Most famous of the lot is Piotr Bol, a weird,
cl oaked li ttl e man who plays one of Europes last musi c
boxes wi th a parrot al ongsi de him. But for real comedy
gol d check out the mi me arti sts who stand i n frozen
posture - a few years back one such chap, dressed as a
monk, collapsed after a marathon booze binge l eaving
his giant geni tals exposed to the worl d.
Leaving the square head down ul. Kami enne Schodki.
Not onl y is this the l ongest stairwell in Ol d Town, i ts also
where Napol eon stood in 1806, pensi vel y staring east-
ward on the eve of his campai gn on the plains of Russia.
From here walk south down ul. Brzozowa until you reach
the grassy bank that of fers sweeping vi ews of the Ri ver
Wisa. Known as Gnoj na Gra (Compost Hill), this small
knoll once served as the town rubbish dump, and at one
stage was also renowned for i ts healing properties - this
is where the stupi d ri ch woul d come to be buri ed up to
their necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis.
Doesn t work, weve tri ed.
Head back towards the Ol d Town by walking towards ul.
Dawna, whose trademark bl ue archway is one of the
most picturesque sights in the city. Finall y, conclude your
epi c walking tour by swerving onto ul. Kanonia. Once a
graveyard, this small li ttl e square features a cracked
cathedral bell recovered from the war time debris, as
well as what is touted as the worl ds narrowest house
at number 20/22 (though a new narrow home bei ng
constructed in the crack between 22 Chodna St. and
74 elazna St. that measures j ust 72 cm at i ts small est
point may j ust top i t). Cl ose by note the covered walkway
linking the cathedral to the castl e. This was buil t after
a fail ed assassination attempt on Zygmunt III. The King
escaped unmol ested, but the hapl ess hi tman, Mi chal
Pi ekarski, found himsel f skinned ali ve, stretched by four
horses and then chopped into pieces wi th an axe. And on
that happy note, consi der your tour at an end.
OLD TOWN
Stay on the left flank of the Old Town to check out the
area around ul. Piekarska and ul. Rycerska. This area was
formerly home to a small square used primarily for execu-
tions. Nicknamed Piekarka this is where witches and other
neer do wells would be burned at the stake, hung or have
their heads lopped off. Marking the end of Piekarska, just
outside the old city walls, check out the sword waving figure
of Jan Kiliski (see Monuments), a legendary Polish patriot
and a hero of the 1794 Kociuszko Uprising. The man who
gave his name to that Uprising, Tadeusz Kociuszko (the
same lad who would fight with distinction in the American
War of Independence, and would later have Australias high-
est peak named after him), lived at Szeroki Dunaj 5. This
wide street was formerly home to Warsaws fish market,
while the street running at a 90o angle, Wski Dunaj, was
the towns original Jewish Quarter back in medieval times.
Directly behind the wall, and onto Podwale, youll find one of
Warsaws most photographed landmarks; The Monument
to the Little Insurgent. Depicting a boy weighed down by a
machine gun and outsized helmet the monument honours
the memory of the child soldiers who fought and died in
the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, and its not rare to find the
bronze statue surrounded by school groups on their day
out to the capital.
Foll ow Podwal e as i t curves northwards, and i f youre
feeling peckish at this stage search the radar for signs
of Podwale Kompania Piwna at number 25 (see Where to
Eat). Resembling a typical European beer hall this place
is an absolute legend, with servings of meat and cabbage
practically forklifted onto tables. At this stage its fair to say
youll probably be feeling like a python who swallowed a pig,
so waddle with great care and attention to the Barbakan
building, making sure to avoid those annoying street dudes
wholl try and lead you to their executioners block to have
your pic snapped. Crowning the set of defensive walls which
once protected the city is the Barbakan, a fearsome rotund
structure that dates from 1548 and was apparently the work
of a Venetian architect. Today it serves as a bridge between
Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for
teenagers drinking super-strength lager. In summer tours of
the interior are available, and well worth the look if you dont
have an aversion to confined spaces. Interestingly, the moat
that pins the Old Town in is another relatively recent addition
to Warsaw. The original ditch was filled in back in the 18th
century when the defences became obsolete, and the walls
were incorporated into the dense tangle of townhouses
that mushroomed up around. Fragments of these forgotten
defences were unearthed in 1937, and a decade later, with
Warsaw in ruins, architects took the decision to restore and
expose these ancient walls.
Its at this point youll find your nose pointing straight down ul.
Nowomiejska, a street revered for Warsaws best ice cream.
Continue forward to reach the Old Town Square (Rynek). No
matter how often you see it, it cant fail to leave you breath-
less. The burgher houses that line the square are particularly
striking, with many boasting intricate details on the facades.
Measuring 90 metres by 73 this square is Warsaws defin-
ing highlight, and presents unlimited ways to squander your
money - tourist junk stores and crappy restaurants populated
with stuffed animals come to mind. One place that is worth
popping into, even if its just to steal the cutlery, is U Fukiera
at number 27. The culinary tradition here dates from 1810
when the Fukier family turned this place into Warsaws top
winery. Today the restaurant is in the hands of the Gesslers,
and their guest list reads as something of a Whos Who of
stage and screen. Close by the Historical Museum of Warsaw
is unfortunately closed for major renovation work and is
expect to open again in May.
110
111
PRAGA PRAGA
Gritty. Bo-ho. Up-and-coming. There are a lot of terms
being tossed around to describe Praga, the eastern dis-
trict of Warsaw that hugs the Vistula River, and theyre
all fairly apt. Praga has long been regarded as off-limits
to Western visitors thanks to its criminal underclass and
imposing tower blocks, but a revival of sorts now makes
this section of town worthy of emphasising - especially i f
you prefer to see the citys artsy underbelly and get away
from the well-trodden tourist path in Old Town. The area
is still at least five years away from being hipster-soaked
Brooklyn or boho Montmartre, but thats exactly why now
is the time to go: a visit will mean you can say you saw the
evolution in progress.
In practice and geographically Praga has always been set
apart from Warsaw proper. Until 1791 the district was its own
separate town and the inability to build a permanent bridge
between Praga and Warsaw until the mid-18th century surely
proved a factor in the separatism (ferries in the summer
and a stroll across the iced-over Vistula in the winter were
the main option for transit in the pre-bridge days). Finally
in 1791 King Stanislaw August Poniatowski attached the
district officially to Warsaw, dissolving it of its independence
at least on paper.
Praga wasnt given much time to enjoy its new status as part
of Warsaw thanks to the The Battle of Praga in 1794, which
saw an aggressive invasion by the Russian army. Following
the quick but devastating battle the Russians burned the
entire district and massacred the 20,000 Poles living in
there. During World War II Praga wasnt quite as devastated
as Warsaw proper (which isnt really saying much if youve
seen the condition Warsaw was left in). The Russians, again,
arrived in Praga in July 1944 and stopped at the Vistula,
famously leaving the Polish Home Army dangling during the
Warsaw Uprising.
Today working-class Praga is the standard-bearer for cool,
especially among those who find the tourist-heavy Old Town
too Disneyfied and the sterile clubs of Warsaw proper as
distasteful. Folks here prefer their bars dark and their fun
improvised, and visitors can easily spend a day checking
out the sights and an evening enjoying the often impressive
beer selection.
Agnieszka Osiecka Monument (Pomnik Ag-
nieszki Osieckiej) H-2, ul. Francuska. Agnieszka
Osiecka (1936 - 1997) was a Polish poet and journalist, and
the author of over 2,000 songs, many of which were turned
into pop hits. Shes also known for a particularly grisly con-
nection to the Swinging Sixties; her first marriage ended in
tragedy when her husband, Wojciech Frykowski, became one
of those slain by Charles Mansons family of weirdos in what
would turn out to be one of the crimes of the century. The
statue is located in Praga Poudnie, a more modern section
of Praga (note the surrounding embassies) than Stara Praga.
To round out your visit check out Osieckas favourite caf,
Maska, which stands around the corner from her monument.
Bears G-1, Praski Park (from al. Solidarnoci), tel.
(+48) 22 619 40 41. Strangely enough, bears have been
living on the concrete island in Praski Park since 1949; over
400 have been reared here before being packed off to zoos,
safari parks and circuses around the globe. Although the
bears look rather sleepy they can still pack a punch. Several
years ago a drunken idiot was savaged after jumping into
the enclosure. The two current well-rested residents are
called Tatra and Turnia.
Buildings Although in a sorry state of disrepair, much
of Praga survived the war. Nowadays, to walk around the
bullet-scarred tenement houses found by the riverside is
to immerse yourself in pre-war Praga. The oldest surviving
residential building in the district can be found on (H-1) ul.
Targowa 50/52. Built in 1819, it once housed a Jewish el-
ementary school and bears a Hebrew inscription dating from
1934. The Praskie Biuro Przewodnickie (Praski Guide Office)
offers a brochure about the buildings history that is unfortu-
nately only in Polish, however the staff is happy to interpret.
Kapela Podwrkowa Monument G-1, corner of ul.
Floriaska and ul. Kopotowskiego. The tradition of cloth-
capped buskers goes back a long way in Warsaw, and the
best loved of the lot have been commemorated in the heart
of Praga. The pre-war Kapela Podwrkowa (The Courtyard
Band) are a bit of a local legend in these parts, and now the
five piece band have been honoured with a noisy monument
sculpted by Andrzej Renes. Send a text (SMS) message to tel.
7141 with the text KAPELA, then pick a number between 1
and 100 (the list of 100 songs to choose from is on the side
of the brass drum); thats the signal for hidden speakers to
burst forth with pre-war and patriotic classics made famous
by these local heroes. However, recent visits to the statue
have shown the buskers to be temperamental, and texts did
not always result in a song being played.
Koci us z kowcw Monument (Pomni k
Kociuszkowcw) G-1, ul. Wybrzee Szczeciskie,
Near Port Praski. A formidable monument erected in 1985
to act as a memorial for those who fought in the First Polish
Infantry Division. Formed in Russia, the division attempted
to cross the Wisa river several times without success, in a
bid to support the 1944 Uprising.
Orthodox Church of St. Mary Magdalene (Cerkiew
w. Marii Magdaleny) G-1, Al. Solidarnoci 52, tel.
(+48) 22 619 84 67. Constructed between 1867 and 1869
to a design by Mikoaj Syczew, St. Mary Magdalenes was
originally built for the large congregation of Russians living
around Jagielloska as well as people arriving from the
East at the nearby Wileska train station. Now belonging to
the independent Polish Autocephaly Orthodox Church, this
stunning, five-domed building features a breathtaking golden
interior and some unusually cheerful abstract designs.
One of only two Orthodox churches to survive a demolition
campaign in the 1920s, its easily the best-smelling church
in Praga thanks to the heavy burning of rich incense. QOpen
11:00 - 16:00.
Rycki Bazaar (Bazar Ryckiego) H-1, ul.
Targowa 54, tel. (+48) 22 619 44 06, www.bazarro-
zyckiego.pl. Once regarded as Warsaws premier bazaar,
the rambling Bazar Ryckiego has seen its popularity wane
since 1989. Black market trade once thrived under Nazi
and communist governments, but nowadays the historic
102-year-old market is a ghostly image of its former self.
Once considered the place for cardigans, firearms and
spurious goods, its now a mildly depressing look into work-
ing class Warsaw life. Visitors could easily outfit an entire
polyester wedding thanks to the heaps of vendors selling
cheap wedding dresses, tacky kiddie tuxes and chintzy
mother-of-the-bride gowns. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00, Sat
07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Soviet War Memorial (Pomnik Braterstwa Broni)
G-1, Pl. Wileski. Dedicated to the Soviet soldiers who died
during the liberation of Warsaw, this monument has been
removed due to the construction of a new Metro station
and will spend some time being restored before relocating
80 metres down the road on Pl. Wileski (towards ul. Cyryla
i Metodego). Erected in the immediate aftermath of WWII,
the rusting edi fice is the citys least loved memorial and
is often littered with graffiti (though the clean-up should
temporarily take care of this). Its Praga location is quite
apt - this was where the Red Army halted their advance in
1944, while Nazi troops put down the Warsaw Uprising and
then demolished the city.
Sts. Michael & Florian
Cathedral (Katedra w.
Michaa Archanioa i w.
Floriana) G-1, ul. Floriaska
3, tel. (+48) 22 619 09 60,
www.katedra-floriana.wpra-
ga.opoka.org.pl. This giant
gothic cathedral viewable from
across the Vistula in Warsaw
proper was built in reaction
to the building of an Orthodox
Church and a number of other
structures on the Tsars orders
in the latter hal f of the 19th
century. A certain Pole by the
name of Father Ignacy Dutkiewicz decided to hit back with the
construction of a huge new Catholic church, which was conse-
crated in 1901. Unsurprisingly this vast Gothic beast was blown
to pieces by the Germans in September 1944 and is now almost
exclusively the work of ongoing reconstruction between 1947
and 1970. Featuring a pair of steel-tipped 75-metre steeples,
the church, which includes a photograph of what remained of
it after the Nazis dynamited it on the left wall as you enter, has
a rather plain interior though the vaulted ceilings are well worth
a look at if youre in the area. Q Open by prior arrangement.
Zbkowska Nowhere is Pragas revival better illustrated
than ulica Zbkowska, the natural gravitational point for all
the Boho and artistic types who have recently materialized
to upgrade the district. Originally lined with timber frame
houses, Zbkowska experienced a fierce blaze in 1868 that
led to wooden lodgings being replaced with tall tenements, all
but one surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street hard,
with Zbkowska allowed to fall into such disrepair that plans
for wholesale demolition were seriously considered. However
it survived, and today restoration work has seen many of
buildings returned to their former glory, streets repaved and
galleries opened. For some the very name Zbkowska is syn-
onymous with lively bars filled with student revolutionaries.
Zoo G-1, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41,
www.zoo.waw.pl. If the bears piqued your interest in animals
then head to the nearby Warsaw Zoo, which was opened in
1928 and covers an area of 40 hectares. More than 5,000
species call it home and that includes all the biggies youd
expect: lions, gorillas, giraffes and elephants to name a few.
As with every major Warsaw landmark, the zoo has plenty of
war stories. It was bombed at the beginning of the conflict and
by 1945 all the animals had either been killed, deported to
the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo
director, Jan abiski, became something of a hero; wounded
during the 1944 Uprising, abiski helped save countless lives
by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo.
The zoo officially re-opened in 1949. Q Open 09:00-15:30.
Last entrance 1 hour before closing. From March 15 open
09:00-17:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission
17/12z. Children under 3 years free.
Where to drink
Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22. See Nightlife.
Saturator ul. 11 listopada 22. See Nightlife.
W Oparach Absurdu (In The Mists of Absurdity)
H-1, ul. Zbkowska 6. See Nightlife.
Where to eat
Caffee Galeria Sztuki H-1, ul. Zbkowska 13. See
Cafes.
DeCoteria H-1, ul. Zbkowska 16. See Restaurants.
By Public Transport:
From Centralna the 160 bus will take you across the
river and drop you at the Park Praski stop, a great place
to begin your tour of Praga (you can nod at the bears
as you disembark). If youre in the Old Town simply walk
down the steps near the Royal Castle to Al. Solidarnosci
and the Stare Miasto tram stop and every tram heading
over the river (23, 26) stops at Park Praski as well. These
same trams will return you to the Stare Miasto as well.
By taxi:
You can also take a taxi which should cost around
20-30z and should take you from the centre area to
Zbkowska in less than 20 minutes. Please remember
that the price and time depends on the traffic, so your
journey may be longer during rush hours.
Getting there
to tu - Praskie Biuro Przewodnickie H-1, ul.
Zbkowska 36, tel. (+48) 22 670 01 56, www.totu.
travel.pl. Info on the local area, bike hire (season only)
and guided tours in English and Polish. QOpen 10:00 -
16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Tourist information
112
113
the Poles continued the fight on two fronts, with segments of
Chopin aired every 30 seconds by radio to let the outside
world know that Warsaw was still Polish. However the human
cost was starting to mount; the merciless bombardment
had claimed the lives of over 50,000 Varsovians, the Royal
Castle lay in ruins, and supplies of food, power and water had
reached critical levels. With Allied aid not forthcoming, and a
humanitarian disaster looming large, the capital finally raised
the white flag on September 28th. To bring the Polish heroics
into perspective, Paris, defended by the largest standing
army in the world, took just nine days to fall.
Occupation
Hitler arrived in Warsaw for his one and only visit to the
Polish capital on October 5th, inspecting a victory parade
on (C-4) Al. Ujazdowskie before scuttling off for a reception
at the Belvedere Palace. If his pre-war rants hadnt been
ominous enough, the Polish public were about to learn just
what a nutcase this man really was. The Fuhrers verdict on
the Poles is damning, wrote Goebbels shortly after Hitlers
stopover, More like animals than human beings, completely
primitive, stupid and amorphous.
Hitler carved Poland into pieces - parts were annexed into
the Reich, other areas - Warsaw included - found themselves
under the General Government of Hans Frank, an expert
chess player and fanatical Nazi: If I had to put up a poster
for every seven Poles I shot, the forests of Poland would not
be sufficient to manufacture the paper, he is said to have
bragged. His rule was textbook despot, both brutal and
bloody, and it was under his suggestion that Ludwig Fischer
was appointed governor of Warsaw, a post he would hold
right until 1945. Fischer was more bureaucrat than butcher,
yet nonetheless it was under his authority that Warsaw
became a city of blood.
The racial politics of the Reich were pursued with active
intent, with whole swathes of the city set aside for Ger-
mans only. The largest Ghetto the world has ever seen was
constructed to the north, and Warsaw was marginalized in
importance and earmarked as a town whose true purpose
would be to soak up refugees expelled from Aryan territories
to the west. Chopin disappeared from his plinth, Copernicus
and his statue were awarded German identity, and the Polish
community alienated from their own city. Daily rations were
set to 669 calories (184 for Jews), and its estimated that a
quarter of the population were only saved from starvation
by the appearance of emergency soup kitchens. But worse
was to follow; from 1943 the Gestapo were granted carte
blanche to shoot people on mere suspicion of wrongdoing,
and street roundups and public executions became a daily
occurrence. This wasnt so much a city under occupation as
a city under tyranny.
WARSAW UPRISING
August 1, 1944. Warsaw, subject to five years of fascist
hegemony, rose up in popular rebellion in what would go on
to be recorded as the largest ever uprising in the German
occupied territories. With German morale in ribbons, a retreat
from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army already on the
east bank of the Wisa, no time seemed better than the pres-
ent. Following close contact with the Polish government-in-
exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Polands
wartime military movement a.k.a the Armii Krajowy or AK)
launched a military strike with the aim of liberating Warsaw
and installing an independent government.
In the event the Red Army made no concerted attempt to
help the Poles, while promises of Allied support proved largely
empty. As for the Nazi hierarchy, they reacted with blind rage
to this stroke of Polish insolence, and what ensued was an
epic 63 day struggle during which the Home Army faced the
full wrath of Hitler. The most notorious chapter of Warsaws
history was about to be written.
Outbreak of War
At 4.45am, September 1, 1939, shots were fired from Ger-
man gun emplacements positioned inside the lighthouse
at Danzig Neufahrwasser, found in what was then known
as the Free City of Danzig (today Gdansk). Object of the
aggression was the military garrison stationed on the Polish
controlled Westerplatte Peninsula, and within minutes the
German battleship Schleswig Holstein joined the bombard-
ment, inadvertently kicking off a conflict that would last six
years and cost 55 million lives.
Approximately an hour after Westerplatte the capital itself
came under aerial bombardment; waves of Stuka dive bomb-
ers swooped on the capital in what can only be described
as one of the worlds first ever terror bombings - hospitals,
schools and market places were all deemed legitimate
targets, while columns of fleeing refugees were strafed from
the air. Within a week German land forces had reached the
city limits, though any thoughts of a swift lightning victory
were quickly rebuffed. An opening tank assault on Ochota
was fended off, with the Germans losing 80 tanks from an
attacking force of 220. Spurred on by the stirring broadcasts
of Warsaw Mayor Stefan Starzynski the defenders dug in for
siege, fighting street by street and inch for inch. A German
demand for surrender on September 14th was rejected,
and in spite of claims of triumph in the German press the
city fought on, civilians and military alike joining together in
a desperate attempt to ward off the invaders.
Warsaws fate, and indeed Polands, was sealed days later
on the 17th of September when the Soviets invaded from the
east thereby fulfilling their part in the Nazi/Soviet Molotov-
Ribbentrop pact.Even so, with the odds stacked against them
Insurgents charge into battle
Into captivity
WARSAW UPRISING
The Uprising
With such a malignant machine in force its little surprise
Poland gave birth to Europes largest resistance move-
ment. Even still, with the war moving towards its closing
stages it was far from obvious that the resistance would
abandon its partisan tactics and launch a bona fide mili-
tary assault on the Nazis. By July, 1944 the Red Army
led by Marshal Rokossovsky had reached the Wisla, and
on July 22 a panicked Fischer ordered the evacuation of
German civilians from Warsaw; sensitive papers were
torched and destroyed, trains screeched westwards to
Berlin and all the signs suggested liberation was but days
away. German intelligence was aware that an uprising
was possibl e, yet nothing seemed cl ear cut. Fischers
appeal s for 100,000 Pol es to present themsel ves to
work on anti-tank defences were ignored, as were broad-
casts reminding the Poles of their heroic battle against
Bolshevism in 1923. Tensions increased with Red Army
leaflet drops urging Varsovians to arms, and were further
exacerbated on July 30th with a Soviet radio announce-
ment declaring, People of the capital! To arms! Strike at
the Germans! May your million strong population become
a million soldiers, who will drive out the German invaders
and win freedom. Still, like boxers prowling the ring, each
side appeared locked in a waiting game, so much so that
German military despatches on the afternoon of August
1, 1944 concluded with, Warschau ist kalm. Warsaw
was anything but.
On orders from General Tadeusz Bor Komorowski 5pm
si gnall ed W-Hour ( Wybuch standing for outbreak), the
precise time when some 40,000 members of the Home
Army would attack key German positions. Warsaw at the
time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any
numerical supremacy the Poles could count on was offset
by a chronic lack of arms, and a complete dearth of heavy
armour. Nonetheless the element of surprise caught the
Germans off guard, and in spite of heavy losses the Poles
captured a string of strategic targets, including the old town,
Prudential Tower (then the tallest building in Poland), and
the post office. The first day had cost the lives of 2,000
Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag
fluttered once more over the capital.
Yet in spite of these initial successes their remained sev-
eral concerns. Polish battle groups were spread across
the city, and many had failed to link up as planned. More
worryingly, several objectives had been met with disas-
ter - the police district around (G-4) Al. Szucha remained
firmly in German hands, even more importantly, so did
the airport. Hitler, meanwhile, was roused out of his tor-
por, screaming for no prisoners to be taken, and every
inhabitant to be shot.
Within days German reinforcements started pouring in,
and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through
the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men,
women and children in what would become one of the most
savage episodes of the Uprising. Indeed, it was to prove a
mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, behind
the barricades, cultural life thrived - over 130 newspapers
sprang up, religious services were celebrated and a scout
run postal service introduced. Better still, the first allied air
drops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out,
this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under
the command of the Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy
artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks. Even
worse, the practice of using Polish women as human shields
was quickly introduced.
The insurgents were a mixed bag, featuring over 4,000
women in their ranks, a unit of Slovaks, scores of Jews
liberated from Warsaw concentration camp, a platoon
of deaf and dumb volunteers led by an officer called Yo
Yo, and an escaped English prisoner of war called John.
Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on their side was
an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were
almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans,
yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic sel f-assurance.
Air drops were vital i f the rising was to succeed, though
hopes on these were scuppered with Stalins refusal to
allow Allied planes landing rights in Soviet held airports.
Instead the RAF set up a new route running from the Italian
town of Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved
high with over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inac-
curate - one such mission concluding with 960 canisters out
of a 1,000 falling into German hands. All hopes, it seemed,
rested on the Russians.
After six weeks of inaction Rokossovsky finally gave the
go ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross
the river and relieve the insurgents. The operation was a
debacle, and with heavy casualties and no headway made
the assault was called off. For the Russians, this single
attempt at crossing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was
on its own. Already by this time the situation in Warsaws
old town, defended by 8,000 Poles, had become unten-
abl e, and a daring escape route was hatched through
the sewers running under the ci ty. The Germans were
now free to focus on wiping out the remaining outposts
of resistance, a task undertaken with glee and armour.
Six hundred millimetre shells were landing on the centre
every eight minutes, and casualties were rising to alarm-
ing rates. Surrender negotiations were initiated in early
September, though it wasnt till the end of the month - by
which time all hope had been exhausted - that they took
a concrete shape. Abandoned by her allies the Poles were
forced to capitulate once more, some 63 days after they
had taken on the Reich. The battle is finished, wrote a
eulogy in the final edition of the Information Bulletin. From
the blood that has been shed, from the common toil and
misery, from the pains of our bodies and souls, a new
Poland will arise - free.
Luftwaffe v Warsaw
114
115
WARSAW UPRISING
Aftermath
Having deposited their weaponry at pre-designated sites,
11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity, de-
feated but proud. The battle had cost up to 200,000 civilian
lives, while military casualties between Germans and Poles
would add a further 40,000 to the figure. Hitler was ecstatic;
with the Uprising out of the way his plan to raze Warsaw could
finally be realized. Remaining inhabitants were exiled (though
around 2,000 are believed to have seen in liberation by hiding
in the ruins), and the Germans set about obliterating what
was left of the city. No stone can remain standing, warned
Himmler, and what happened next can only be described as
the methodical and calculated murder of a city. Buildings were
numbered according to their importance to Polish culture
before being dynamited by teams of engineers, while less
historic areas were simply burned to the ground. Nothing was
spared the iconoclasm, not even trees. I have seen many
towns destroyed, exclaimed General Eisenhower after the
war, but nowhere have I been faced with such destruction.
Modern studies estimate the cost of damage at around
fifty four billion dollars. In human terms Poland lost much
more. With the Uprising died a golden generation, the very
foundation a new post-war Poland could build on. Those
veterans who survived were treated with suspicion and
disdain by the newl y installed communist government,
others were persecuted for perceived western sympathies.
Post-war Soviet show trials convicted 13 leaders of the
Uprising for anti-Soviet actions, and thereafter the Uprising
condemned as a folly to serve the bourgeois ends of the
Polish government-in-exile. Today, finally, the event that has
come to define the spirit of Warsaw, has been awarded the
recognition it deserves.
Freedom came out against slavery. The flame of the
Uprising remained in peoples hearts and souls. It was
passed on by the baton of the generations. The spirit
proved indestructible and immortal. Soldiers of the
Rising. You did not die in vain.
Lech Walesa, 1994
What to see
Berling Statue H-3, Wa Miedzeszyski. Zygmunt
Berling is best remembered as the commander of the 1st
Polish Army during WWII, a role that saw him honoured with
his own statue in 1985. Designed by Kazimierz Danilewicz
his white marble monument frequentl y falls foul of the
vandals, and its not uncommon to see Berlings hands
daubed with blood red paint. Thats on account of Berlings
associations with the USSR; the 1st Polish Army was little
more than a puppet wing of Stalins forces, and Berlings
perceived inaction during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising still
rankles with a great many Poles.
Bielanski Bank B-2, ul. Bielaska 10.
Few remnants of the Uprising are more conspicuous than
the hulking shell on ul. Bielaska. Its got quite a history.
The site was originally home to a mint, but that found itsel f
demolished to make way for the Warsaw division of the
Imperial Bank of Russia. Designed by Leontij Nikoajewicz
Benois, a rector of the Fine Arts Academy in St Petersburg,
construction began in 1907 and went on for a further four
years. Within another four years the Russians had left, the
collapse of the Empire seeing all Tsarist subjects head back
east with their tails between their legs. The Poles took over
the building, first employing it as the National Treasury,
then establishing it as the headquarters of Bank Polski in
1926. The structure became a key strategic target during
the Warsaw Uprising, and on capture served as a base for
Polish insurgents. Smashed to pieces by German bombs
the building was left to rot in the decades that followed.
Originally slated to house the Warsaw Uprising Museum
legal wrangles saw that idea bite the dust. Now Belgian
property developer Ghelamco plan to redevelop the site as
an office complex, and although the former bank is listed
as a historic building quite how much of it will survive the
whims of the developers remains open to question. In the
meantime the sight of window frames hanging from bullet
battered walls make for particularly haunting viewing.
Execution Sites The fall of communism brought with
it a huge desire to commemorate the Uprising, which had
hitherto been largely erased from Polish history by anti-
nationalist communist censors. Now memorial plaques and
tablets abound around Warsaw and though they tend to be
in Polish only, it doesnt take long to get the hang on them;
on the whole theyll display the date and number of people
executed by the Nazis.
Monument to the Warsaw Uprising (Pomnik
Powstania Warszawskiego) B-2, Pl. Krasiskich. It
was only with the regime close to collapse that this uncon-
ventional, not to say controversial monument was unveiled.
Completed in 1989, and designed by Wincent Kucma, it
depicts a group of insurgents in battle, and another faction
retreating into the sewers.
Warsaw Uprising Museum (Muzeum Powsta-
nia Warszawskiego) D-3, ul. Grzybowska 79, tel.
(+48) 22 539 79 33, www.1944.pl. Opened in 2004,
this remains one of Polands best museums. Packed with
interactive displays, photographs, video footage and
miscellaneous exhibits its a museum thats guaranteed
to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram
power station the 2,000m2 space is split over several
levels, leading visitors through the chronological story
of the Uprising (provided
they dont make any wrong turns, alas, a common mis-
take). Start off by learning about life under Nazi rule, your
tour accompanied by the background rattle of machine
guns, dive bombers and a thumping heartbeat. Different
halls focus on the many aspects of the Uprising; walk
through a replica radio station, or a covert printing press.
The mezzanine level features
film detailing the first month of battle, before which
visitors get to clamber through a mock sewer. The final
sections are devoted to the creation of a Soviet puppet
state, a hall of remembrance, and a particularly poignant
display entitled Death of the City; take time to watch the
black and white before and after
shots of important Warsaw landmarks being systemati-
cally obliterated by the Nazis as punishment. Near the
exit check out the films playing in the 110 seat cinema
which now include a silence inducing 5 minute 6 sec
3-D aerial film which took 2 years to make and used
old pictures and new technology to recreate a picture
of the desolation of liberated Warsaw in March 1945.
There is also an exact replica of a B24 Allied plane once
used to make supply drops over the besieged city. A view-
ing platform and peace garden wrap up this high impact
experience Q Open 08:00-18:00, Thu 08:00-20:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 14/10z
(children under 7 free). Audio guides for 10z per person.
Sun free. Film costs 2z per person. Y
Uprising Museum
Skaryszewski Park H-2. While the allied air lift to aid the
Uprising proved a disaster, the heroism of the Commonwealth
and Polish pilots who flew missions to relieve Warsaw cannot
be called into question. Standing in Skaryszewski Park on War-
saws east bank, is a memorial to commemorate these airmen.
It was here that a Liberator plane crash landed in 1944, killing
all but one of the seven crew on board. The sole survivor, Henry
Lloyd Lyne, unveiled the monument in 1988, and today it is
the sight for British Embassys annual Remembrance service.
In 2000 Lloyd Lyne, a retired farmer, was presented with a
recovered piece of the plane by Queen Elizabeth II.
The Little Insurgent Monument (Pomnik Maego
Powstaca) B-2, ul. Podwale. The communist authori-
ties continually thwarted efforts to commemorate the Up-
rising, though by the early 80s cracks in their resolve were
beginning to show. On October 1, 1983, the most poignant
of all Uprising monuments was unveiled by the walls of the
Barbakan; designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz, and funded by
collections undertaken by scouts, the bronze installation
shows the figure of a boy soldier clutching a Sten gun and
weighed down by an adult-sized helmet. Commemorating the
children who served as messengers and frontline troops, the
figure is inspired by the story of 13 year old corporal Antek,
himself killed in action close to the scene on August 8, 1944.
Wol a Massacre Statue (Pomni k Pami ci
Ludnoci Woli Wymordowanej w Czasie Powsta-
nia 1944) D-2, Pl. Solidarnoci. No other event captures
the brutality of the Uprising better than the Wola Massacre.
Between August 5 and August 6 the Nazis embarked on a
savage bloodletting in an attempt to batter the Poles into
submission. Led by Oskar Dirlewanger, a despicable man with
a history of sex crimes against minors, and Heinz Reinfarth,
German units executed approximately 40,000 civilians in
the Wola area of Warsaw. The massacre only came to halt
when Hitler himself intervened and declared all civilians be
sent to concentration camps instead. While Dirlewanger
was beaten to death by Poles after the war, Reinfarth and
countless others evaded justice. The senseless slaughter
is commemorated by an impressive monument dating from
2006, designed by Ryszard Stryjecki and found practically
opposite the Ibis hotel on Solidarnoci.
WARSAW UPRISING
Pasta B-3, ul. Zielna 37, www.pastadlamiasta.pl. A real
city landmark, and unmistakable thanks to the great big red and
white P attached to its roof. That P was a favoured sign of the in-
surgents, and the buildings importance to the Rising should not be
underestimated. Built between 1904 and 1910 this weird tower
like structure - ramparts et al - operated as a telecommunications
centre, a function it continued to serve under the Nazis. Heavily
defended by bunkers and guard posts it was besieged for twenty
two days by the Kilinski battalion of the Home Army before finally
surrendering on the 22nd. In 2000 Prime Minister Jerzy Buzek
handed stewardship of the building to a combatants association,
and today, among numerous other functions, the ground floors
are home to the recommended Na Zielnej restaurant.
Prudential Tower F-2, ul. witokrzyska. The first build-
ing in Warsaw to surpass fifteen floors. Built using 1,250,000
bricks Warsaws first true skyscraper became a major point
of attack on opening day of the Rising, the symbolic meaning
of a Polish flag on Polands tallest structure not lost on the
insurgents. The Nazis shelled it heavily, and though it was
gutted its prototype steel skeleton refused to topple. After
the war the tower was given a thinner look, and for decades
operated as the Hotel Warszawa. Finally closed in 2003,
this hulk of a building stood derelict for many years before
being taken over by the Likus Group (they of Hotel Monopol
in Wroclawfame) who are redeveloping it into a luxury hotel
with rooftop restaurant in time for 2012.
Ruins of the Rising Between 1939 and 1944 over 84
percent of Warsaw was completely destroyed, with the city
centre bearing the brunt of the damage. In spite of the Herculean
rebuilding work that has since taken place, bullet scarred wall
on pre-war tenements can still be found in relative abundance
round the few parts of the centre that escaped total destruc-
tion. Perhaps most obvious of all is the building on ul. Walicw,
featuring shell-pocked facades and a wall half-tumbling down.
Sapper Monument (Pomnik Chwaa Saperom)
H-3, Park Marszaka Edwarda migego-Rydza. De-
signed by Stanisaw Kulon and unveiled on May 8th, 1975,
the monument to the sappers is a typically formidable
piece of 70s brutalism. Designed to evoke the explosive
blast of a landmine this seventeen metre high monstrosity
commemorates the sappers who died defusing mines and
booby traps in the years after the war. Free Warsaw will
never forget those, who with their pain and blood, started
the work on her reconstruction reads the accompanying
plaque. The names and units of the sappers who died are
listed on the pylons, as well as Polish-language descriptions
of the hazardous work they undertook.
Old Town Square, 1945
Warsaw Uprising: Aug 1 - October 3
116
117
AZIENKI AZIENKI
Anyone who still thinks that Warsaw is a city of concrete and
cement has clearly never been to the citys lung, the incom-
parable azienki Park (G-4). Quite simply, this glorious, 17th
century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of the jewels
in Polands crown, which might explain why half of Warsaw
chooses to spend its summer Sundays here. Fear not though,
for so big is azienki that it never gives the impression of be-
ing crowded, and even on the busiest of days you will always
be able to find a quiet, shady corner somewhere.
azienki Park (Park azienkowski) G-4, ul. Agrykoli
1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienki-krolewskie.
pl. The name azienki means baths and is derived from the
parks centrepiece and best-known attraction, the Palace on
the Island. The palace was riginally built in the 17th century
as a private bathhouse for Stanisaw Herakliusz Lubomirski,
owner of the adjacent Ujazdw Castle and much of the sur-
rounding land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The
bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisaw
August Poniatowski in 1772, and converted into a private
residence (and taking the name Palace on the Island). It
was as this time that the grounds were formally laid out as
a private garden, most of the landscaping being carried out
to the designs of Karol Ludwig Agricola and Karol Schultz.
Today dotted with many palaces (big and small), summer
houses, pavilions, mansions, cafes, restaurants, lakes and
theatres, there is much to see in azienki and to make the
best of it you should plan to spend a full day here.

One word of warning however before you pack a picnic and
the cricket set: azienki, for all its charms, is further evidence
of the fact that many Central Europeans have never quite
grasped the idea of what parks are actually for. With superbly
kept grass at every turn, perfect for picnics, pick up games of
cricket, softball, football or whatever else it is people get up
to in parks in the western world, azienki takes a very stern
look but dont touch attitude when it comes to its lawns. If
you dont believe us, try sitting on a azienki lawn and see
what happens Q Open from dawn till dusk. Admission free.
Botanical Garden (Ogrd Botaniczny) G- 4, Al.
Ujazdowskie 4, tel. (+48) 22 553 05 11, www.ogrod.
uw.edu.pl. Unfortunately the superb Botanical Gardens in,
the entrance of which is on Al. Ujazdowskie, just south of
Plac Na Rozdrou is closed during the off-season. Part of the
University of Warsaw the gardens have the usual collection of
greenhouses with exotic, weird and wonderful species from
all over the world, but what brings in the crowds during the
summer are the stunning rose gardens just behind the main
entrance. A riot of colour when in full bloom the gardens are
the preferred subject matter of the pretty students from the
nearby art college who set up their easel and paints early
doors and stay until the guards kick them out at sunset.
Indeed, given such cracking scenery it is tempting to find a
bench and do the same. Q Closed until the end of March
or early April (depending on the weather). Admission 6/3z.
Chopin Monument & Temple of Sibyl (Pomnik
Chopina i witynia Diany) G-4. On entering the park
proper, make your first port of call the Chopin Monument,
sculpted by Witold Szymanowski and unveiled in 1926. It
depicts Chopin sitting right here in azienki, next to a willow
tree. The original sculpture was destroyed during WWII,
and the one we admire today went up in 1958. During the
summer, impressive concerts take place around the statue
almost every Sunday. Almost hidden in the trees a few meters
from Chopin is the astonishing Temple of the Sibyl (closed
to the public) an 1820s replica Greek Temple, built entirely
in wood. Look out too for a gaggle of other little buildings
around here, such as the Hermitage, the Egyptian Temple
and the Water Tower. None are currently open to the public.
Belvedere Palace (Belweder) G-5, ul. Belwederska
56. Head next for the Belvedere Palace residence of the
Polish President from 1918 to 1995 (Presidents Aleksander
Kwani ewski and Lech Kaczyski opting to li ve in the
Presidential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie) this is
once again the Warsaw residence of the Polish president
(now Bronisaw Komorowski). Built in 1694 but thoroughly
remodelled in 1818, the building is predictably off limits.
For the best views of the palace and some outstanding
photo opportunities, you should look at it face on from Al.
Ujazdowskie: it is a wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete
with tympanium and oversized Corinthian columns
White House & Orangery (Biay Dom i Stara
Pomaraczarnia) G-4, ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22
506 01 01, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Not quite as
grand as the Belvedere but equally impressive is the little
White House a gorgeous summer house built in 1774 for the
kings sisters, and now open to the public (though closed for
the season, reopening in spring), displaying a fine collection
of period furniture and decorations. A few steps away is the
impressive Old Orangery, one of very few surviving court
theatres in the world. It dates from 1774 and is still used
today to host chamber concerts, as well as being a popular
wedding venue for Warsaws wealthy. Part of the building
houses a museum of sculpture. From here head back past
the White House, resist the temptation to head straight for
the Palace on the Island and instead head south, towards the
New Orangery. Built in cast iron and glass it was designed
by Jzef Orowski and opened in 1861. It is home to the
upmarket Belvedere restaurant. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 6/4z. Thu free.
Theatre on the Island (Amfiteatr) G- 4. Crossing
the tail of the serpentine lake, follow the path that leads
along the embankment until you hit the Amphitheatre, also
known as the Theatre on the Island. Built to resemble
the amphi theatre at Hercul aneum, the theatre hosts
productions throughout the summer, though unless you
fancy seeing Henry V in Polish these will hold little inter-
est for foreign visitors. (There are exceptions: ballet and
contemporary dance sometimes get put on here). It is
truly enough just to admire the setting without a produc-
tion in progress.
Palace on the Island (Paac na Wyspie) G- 4, ul.
Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienki-
krolewskie.pl. The Palace on the Island is azienkis rai-
son detre. The palace - completed in 1683 to designs by
Tylman Gamerski - was originally a bathhouse, converted
into a residence in the late 1700s (after being bought by
Stanisaw August Poniatowski). The palace is built on an
arti ficial island that divides the lake into two parts, and
is connected to the surrounding park by two colonnaded
bridges. The faades are uni fied by giant Corinthian pilas-
ters that link its two floors and are crowned by a balustrade
that bears statues of mythological figures. The northern
faade is relieved by a striking central portico, while on
the southern faade deep central recess lies behind a
screen of Corinthian columns. Today a museum, almost all
of the palace can be visited, including the main reception
room, Solomons Hall, decorated in the most extravagant
of Baroque styles with a series of paintings depicting the
History of Solomon. They were executed for King Stanisaw
Augustus in 1791-93 by Marcello Bacciarelli and depicted
the monarch himsel f as the bibli cal king. Many of the
kings personal rooms are also open to the public, set in
their original context. To get the best out of the palace
we recommend taking one of the excellent (though pricey)
guided tours (usually available in English twice a day by
prior arrangement). QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10z. Thu free.
Guides 90z per group up to 20 people. To arrange guide
call 22 50 60 170.
Museum of Hunting and Horsemanship (Muzeum
owiectwa i Jedziectwa) H-4, ul. Szwoleerw 9,
tel. (+48) 22 522 66 30, www.muzeum.warszawa.pl.
North of the Palace on the Water the Museum of Hunting &
Horsemanship is worth a quick visit. Q Open 10:00-15:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 3-8/2-5z. Thu free. Y
Mylewicki Palace (Paac Mylewicki) H-4, ul.
Agrykoli 1, tel. (+48) 22 506 01 01, www.lazienki-
krolewskie.pl. Make sure you have time too for a guided
tour of the magnificent, semi-circular and recently restored
Mylewicki Palace. The residence of the kings nephew, Jzef
Poniatowski, the palace is very much as was complete with
original murals, furniture and art. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 6/4z. Thu free.
Ujazdowski) G- 4, ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 64
08, www.csw.art.pl. A castle of some description has
been on found on this site since the time of the Masovian
Dukes (1300s), but the Ujazdowski Castle we see today was
completed in a baroque style in 1730 for Stanisaw Herak-
liusz Lubomirski (it was his bathhouse that later became
the Palace on the Water and gave azienki park its name).
Ujazdowski survived two centuries and score years before
being gutted by fire during WWII, and was indeed lucky to
escape total destruction: the retreating Nazis actually tried
to blow it to pieces, as they did a number of azienkis fin-
est buildings. But - as is so often the case - what the Nazis
couldnt do the communists could, and though the original
walls and foundations remained structurally sound in the
1950s Polands communist authorities decided to tear
down the shell of the building and place a military theatre
on the site. Common sense prevailed however, and the
1970s saw Ujazdowski rebuilt to its original plans. It today
plays host to three large exhibi tion halls dedi cated to
showcasing the very best of contemporary art inside; find
a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, featuring the
work of Polands leading contemporary artists here. Worthy
and undoubtedly necessary, the gallery also houses a very
good bookshop and the caf, Qchnia Artystyczna, which
has a terrace whose views over the park, Warsaw and what
appears to be hal f of Poland are jaw dropping. One not to
miss. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed
Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
12/6z, Thu free.
Where to eat
Belvedere G- 5, ul. Agrykoli 1 (New Orangery in
azienki Park, enter from ul. Parkowa). See Restaurants.
Any number of buses stop in front of the parks three
main entrances, on Al. Ujazdowskie, including Nos.
116, 166, 180 and 195. From the city centre however
perhaps the easiest way of reaching azienki is to take
a tram from Centrum to Pl. Unii Lubelskiej, and walk 100
metres along Bagatela to the parks southern entrance,
in front of the Belvedere Palace. Orientation around the
park is relatively easy given the prominent placement of
maps and signs - in Polish and English - in key locations.
There is also a very good azienki complex map (again,
in Polish and English) which can be picked up for free from
the Palace on the Water or any of the museums in the
park. If you enter the park via any of the entrances on
Al. Ujazdowskie, chances are you will end up, willingly or
not, via some surprisingly hilly paths set with tall trees,
at the vast artificial lake in the parks centre, straddled
by the magni ficent Palace on the Island. In doing so
however, you risk missing out on a few treasures, so try
to circumnavigate the park instead.
While you can buy tickets for each azienki attraction
individually, you can also purchase a one-day ticket or
two-days combined ticket which offers single-access to
all of the parks palaces and museums. A one-day ticket
20/10z, two-days tickets 25/15z .
Getting there
Mariokol, pl.wikipedia.org
118
119
WILANW WILANW
It is very easy to visit Warsaw and imagine its history
stretches no further back than the communist post-war era
and that of WWII when the city was effectively wiped from
the map of Europe. But that would be to only understand
a small part of this city and countrys history. The nations
capital has been at Warsaw since the late 16th century and
in its time had been the centre of the burgeoning Polish-
Lithuanian Commonwealth a union which lasted over 200
years and whose territory at one point stretched from the
Baltic to the Black Sea incorporating much of modern day
Poland, Ukraine, Belarus and the Baltic States. With so much
of pre-war Warsaw destroyed there are few places to experi-
ence what this must have been like more than at Wilanows
palace and gardens.
The Polish Versailles is just one of the many fitting monikers
applied to this splendid, late 17th-century Palace which can
be found in the Warsaw district of Wilanw, 10 kilometres
south of the city centre. Essential visiting for all who come to
soak up the capitals lavish culture and wish to understand
a little more about ancient Poland, Wilanw is more than
just a Palace - it represents an era from which much has
been lost. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of
buildings represent the height of Polish Baroque and this is
one of Polands greatest national treasures.The sprawling
45-hectare setting is also full of things to do, from visiting
the superb Poster Museum next door to renting a rowing
boat on the Palaces lake. If the weathers good and youve
got time to spare, its easy to spend an entire and thoroughly
rewarding day here.
History
Wilanw gets its name from the Warsaw borough in which
Wilanw Palace is located. First mentioned in the 13th
century as Milanw, the then tiny village changed hands
several times before being bought in the 17th century by
the family of Stanisaw Leszczyski. Leszczyski began
building a Palace here, but the project was halted by the
Deluge and the subsequent capture and plundering of the
region by the Swedes. In 1676 the abandoned Milanw
was bought by King Jan III Sobieski looking for a country
retreat away from Warsaw and he ordered a new Palace
to be built. Originally called Villa Nova (New Village), the
name was soon polonised to the one its known by today.
A brick manor house was built in 1680 expanding in two
stages into a palace during the years 1681-1696 under
the supervision of Agostino Locci to his own design. It is
within the central part of the palace where you will see the
living quarters of King Jan III Sobieski and his French queen
consort, Marie (or Marysieka as she was affectionately
called by Sobieski and still is by Poles today) in what is the
original part of the palace.
After Jan III Sobieskis death in 1696, his widow returned to
France and the palace through their sons became the property
of Elzbieta Sieniawska. She continued to develop the palace
most notably the two wings, which were built in the years
1720-1729. Sieniawska, like many of the subsequent own-
ers, honoured Sobieski by conserving much of the palace in
memory of the victorious king. It was to become a royal resi-
dence again in the early 1730s during the reign of August II the
Strong. Over the next two hundred years the palace became
the property of a succession of the most important Polish
families including the Czartoryskis, Lubomirskis, Potockis
and Branickis and each left their mark as they expanded and
developed the property. One of its most enlightened residents
was Stanislaw Kostka Potocki who in the early 19th century,
at a time when Poland as a country ceased to exist because
of the Russian/Prussian/Austrian partition, made his collec-
tion of art and access to the royal apartments of King Jan III
Sobieski available to the public. Keep an eye out for the words
Cunctis patet ingressus on the palace floor signifying that
the palace and its collection were open to all.
The palace avoided the fate of the city of Warsaw and sur-
vived the war virtually intact although its collections were
seriously looted. Confiscated by Polands post-war Com-
munist government, Wilanw became part of the National
Museum in Warsaw and was painstakingly renovated during
the 1950s and early 1960s opening its doors to the public
again in 1962. Today it is the subject of a 32 million zloty
revitalisation and digitalisation program which is overseeing
conservation work in the royal apartments, archaeological
research of the area and which will result in the creation of
a 3D workshop in the museum, 3D digitalisation of certain
exhibits and a virtual museum called the Historical Royal
Residence.
The Wilanw Palace Museum, author: Magdalena Kulpa
The Palace and Gardens at Wilanow can be reached best
of all by bus or taxi directly from the city centre. The citys
metro system does run to a stop called Wilanowska but
this is about 5km from the palace and will involve taking
a bus from outside of the station.
By bus
From Old Town:
From (B-2) pl. Zamkowy take buses 116 or 180. Journey
takes about 30 minutes.
From Pl. Trzech Krzyy:
From (C-4) Pl. Trzech Krzyy take buses 116, 180 or
E-2. Journey takes about 25 minutes. The bus stops
can be found at the southern end of the square on Al.
Ujazdowskie.
From Warszawa Centralna train station:
Take bus 130 or 700 from the southbound stop on (A-4)
ul. Chaubiskiego. Journey takes about 30 minutes.
All buses stop directly outside the palace gates.
By Taxi
At around 50z with a recommended company such
as Sawa (tel. 22 644 44 44), a taxi ride to Wilanw
is something of a false economy, taking more or less
the same time as the bus to get there. If you prefer the
comfort and privacy of your own car then also look for
ELE taxis parked around the city, including outside the
(A/B-4) main train station.
Getting there
The Wilanw Palace Museum (Paac w
Wilanowie) ul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22
842 81 01, www.wilanow-palac.pl. The first museum at
Wilanw was opened in 1805 by the palaces owner at the
time, Stanisaw Kostka Potocki. His aim was to help educate
society and protect national identity and knowledge at a
time when Poland had ceased to exist. This tradition was
maintained by his son August and over two hundred years
on these values are still key to the museums role.
The current museum, which takes up a substantial portion
of the Palaces interior, comes in two parts. Having bought
your ticket in the ticket office near the gate, enter the wing
on the right and descend the stairs. There you will have to
deposit your coat and place shoe covers on your shoes.
It is recommended that you pick up an audio guide, which
is available in a number of languages as well as English,
as there is very little description throughout the museum
particularly in the Polish portrait gallery. Heading through
a small room containing some old royal coaches, head up
the stairs into the first part of the museum - The Polish
Portrait Gallery - featuring portraits from the 16th to 19th
century. Wander through room after room of portraits of
the rich and the powerful including some fascinating Polish
coffin portraits of important figures. If portraits are your
thing you will find this very interesting although the lack
of description and in some cases even the name of the
people portrayed was rather frustrating.
The tour leads you around the top of the house and then
downstairs once more where you will find yourself in the
residence of the palace. Featuring suits of armour, Etruscan
vases, a room featuring magnificent frescoes uncovered
during restoration work after the war, residential rooms,
an exceedingly rare 18th-century glass grandfather clock
and even a private chapel there is a lot to admire. There
are English language cards available in most rooms which
give you a basic description of what to look for. The central
part of the lower floor is the most impressive. It is here that
you will find the private apartments of King Jan III Sobieski
and his wife while the wings house the apartments of the
subsequent owners of the palace. There are some lavish
touches to be seen throughout the lower level and it may be
of interest that the leadership of communist Poland would
often use the palace to accommodate foreign dignitaries.
Jimmy Carter once stayed here, while one of the beds had
to be especially adapted to sleep the rather tall Charles de
Gaulle when he visited. It is quite easy to spend a couple of
hours wandering around the palace but be warned that it
tends to fill with schoolchildren during the week and tourists
at the weekends so theres not really a best time to visit. Q
Open 09:30 - 16:00, Sun 10:30 - 16:00. Closed Tue. Last
entrance 60 minutes before closing. Admission 20/15z,
Sun free. Audioguide 12z.
The Wilanw Palace Museum
Lake & Island Theres also a natural lake found behind
the Palace, where gondolas complete with gondoliers and
rowing boats can be hired for leisurely trips on the water be-
ginning in May (weather permitting). A trip here will reward you
with a glimpse of Enrico Marconis strange, Gothic-inspired
pump room, and an adventure to the Parks island reveals a
monument to the Polish soldier, Captain Ksawery Burski, who
served in the army of the Duchy of Warsaw and who gave his
life at Wilanw fighting the Austrians at the Battle of Raszyn
in 1809. Q Boat hire open from 10:30-18:00. 6/4 z for a
place in a gondola; 20z per boat per hour.
Park & Gardens The 45 hectares that make up Wilanw
Park grew over the centuries according to the particular
fancies of its owners. The Parks present form dates from
the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during
the 1950s, overseen by the architect and historian Profes-
sor Gerard Cioek (1909-1966). Made up of a series of
individual gardens, the Park includes a two-level Baroque
garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English
landscaped park and the so called English-Chinese land-
scape park. The nearby Orangery and its garden serves as
a splendid venue for outdoor classical music concerts during
the summer season. The park near the Orangery, East, North
and Rose gardens and their associated architecture have
been the subject of a major revitalisation program and during
work on the Baroque garden a series of archaeological digs
have discovered several artefacts including ceramics dating
from the 12th century. The aim of the program, which is being
carried out with assistance from the EU, is to recreate the
gardens from the time of King Jan III Sobieski. Revitalization
to the pathways, roads and gardens is ongoing. Q Park open
09:00 till dusk. Admission free.
Poster Museum (Muzeum Plakatu) ul. S. K.
Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 842 48 48, www.
postermuseum.pl. Housed inside the Palaces former
indoor riding area. Two large halls full of wonderful posters
from all over the world constitute, at over 55,000 pieces,
what is reportedly the largest poster collection anywhere.
The museum focuses on the artistic merits of the posters
rather than their documentary value and plays host to a
cycle of temporary events and exhibitions. As a contrast
to the historic palace and collection of paintings next door,
this makes for interesting additional place to visit while in
Wilanw. You can also find many of the best examples of
the posters reproduced into postcards which can be bought
from the museum shop along with books and catalogues on
the various prints and exhibits. Q Open 10:00-16:00, Mon
12:00-16:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 10/7z, Mon free.
The Wilanw Palace Museum,
author: Zbigniew Reszka
The Wilanw Palace Museum, author: Magdalena Kulpa
120
WILANW
Potocki Mausoleum (Mauzoleum Potockich)
Wilanw Park. A tomb dedi cated to Stanisaw Kostka
Potocki and his wi fe Al eksandra (nee Lubomirska) Po-
tocka by their son - Al eksander. Desi gned in 1834 by
Henryk Marconi and buil t between 1834-1836 by Jakub
Tatarki ewi cz and Konstanty Hegl i n sandstone. The
Mausol eum is l ocated in park l eading to Wilanw Palace
and consists of a Neo-Gothi c canopy wi th lions hol ding
shiel ds bearing the crests of the Potocki and Lubomirski
fami l i es i n each corner. On the sarcophagus are the
fi gures of deceased and around the si des symbols of
their virtues and interests.
SD Gallery (Galeria SD) ul. S. K. Potockiego 22,
tel. (+48) 22 885 71 71, www.galeriasd.pl. This small
collection of modern Polish art close to St. Annes Church
includes paintings and sculptures by many of the countrys
leading contemporary artists. Featuring some truly impres-
sive pieces of art, most of the work on display is available for
sale. QOpen 13:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed
Mon. Admission free.
St. Annes Church (Koci w. Anny) ul. Kolegi-
acka 1, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www.parafiawilanow.
pl. A church on this site dates back to the 14th century when
the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here. This was
replaced by a Gothic wooden construction and graveyard
in the 16th century and it wasnt replaced with a brick one
until well after the time of Jan III Sobieski in 1772. The new
church was called St. Annes and was founded by Prince
August Adam Czartoryski to a design by Jan Kotelnicki.
Czartoryskis grand-daughter, Al eksandra Lubormirska
Potocka decorated the church with art in the period 1799-
1831, the most precious of which is the Annunciation to
the Virgin Mary in the main altar.
Between 1857 and 1870, Aleksandras son - August- and
his wi fe extend the church to a desi gn by Henri Marconi.
The church gets a Neo-Renaissance l ook and the mar-
vell ous dome is added. In the gardens surrounding the
church buil ding you will find terracotta shrines marking
the four teen Stati ons of the Cross whi l e wi thi n the
church, in the crypt under the chapel, are the tombs of
the Potocki famil y.
The church suffered damage during both world wars and was
even used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who also
looted and damaged it. The church bells dating from 1723
and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local people
who hid them and these are now housed in the newly built
Third Millenium Tower.
The church is a particularly beautiful one to visit nowadays
thanks in no small part to the work of the parish priest
Bogusaw Bijak and it is protected as part of a complex of
parks, buildings and original roads running into the centre
of the city as a national Historic Memorial. Q Open during
mass only.
Where to eat
China Garden ul. Kazachska 1. See Restaurants.
Restauracja Wilanw ul. S. K. Potockiego 27. See
Restaurants.
Villa Nuova ul. S. K. Potockiego 23. See Restaurants.
Jan Sobieski was born in
Olesko near Lwow (now
Ukrainian Lvi v) in 1629.
His father was a Polish-
Lithuanian nobleman who
ensured young Jan and
his brother received a first
class education and they
both went onto study at the Jagiellonian University in Krakow
before Jan travelled abroad. He studied military history and
tactics including significantly as it would turn out in Turkey
(as an envoy of King Jan II Casimir) where he learned the
Tartar language in the 1650s. Sobieski also spoke French,
German and Italian and during this time met major European
political figures including Louis II deBourbon, William of
Orange and Charles II, where it is clear that he learnt the
value of diplomacy as well as military might.
Jan Sobieski would have a lifelong love of France thanks
in part to his French wife Marie (or Marysienka as he
fondly named her) whom he married in 1665 and fathered
14 children with (of whom 8 survived).
Having returned to Poland Sobieski went on to serve with
distinction in the Battle of Warsaw (1656), where he led a
Tartar cavalry regiment, and the Polish Swedish wars (1655-
1660) among others. In 1666 he sided with the king Micha
Korybut Winiowiecki during the Lubormirski rebellion and
added another major victory to his list by defeating the Turks
at the Battle of Chocim in 1673. It was this victory allied to
his reputation as a strong leader, astute military tactician
and a canny political knack that would result in him being
elected as Polish King the following year, in 1674.
Sobieski inherited a nation virtually penniless from 50
years of continuous war and set about stabilising the
countrys borders through treaties and strategic battles.
It is for this combination of wisdom and bravery that he
is well remembered today.
Sobieskis greatest moment, however, was to come in
1683. Having marched through most of the Balkans a
vast Turkish army was massed on the outskirts of Vienna
threatening to overwhelm the Christian world. Led by
King Jan III Sobieski a joint Polish/German/Austrian army
scored a magnificent victory in a daylong battle on 12
September 1683 vanquishing the Turks. Sobieski led a
charge of Polish hussars breaking the opposition lines
and sending the Turks into disarray. Sobieski entered
the abandoned tent of the Turkish commander Kara
Mustapha in the early evening signifying victory and parts
of that tent are today on display within Wilanow Palace.
The Turks were to name Sobieski The Lion of Lechistan
(Lechistan being an ancient name of Poland) while
Danzig astronomer Johannes Hevelius would name a
newly discovered constellation Scutum Sobiescianum
(Sobieskis Shield) after him, quite an accolade for a still
living, non-astronomer as was Sobieski.
The victory not only saved Christendom (Sobieski was
described as the saviour of European Christendom by
the Pope) but also made a lasting impact on European
food culture. According to urban legend pastries were cre-
ated baked in a shape designed to resemble Sobieskis
stirrups (beugel in Austrian), which supposedly evolved
to become the bagels we enjoy today.
Jan III Sobieski
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123
JEWISH WARSAW
By the time Hi tl er chose to expand Germanys terri tori es
under the odious excuse of providing living space for the
German peopl e Warsaws Jewish population numbered
350,000, and was expanding at such a rate that, in the
words of hi stori an Norman Davi es, i t seemed to be
heading for an absolute maj ori ty. Nei ther pogroms nor
the occasional boycott on Jewish businesses deterred
Jews from settling in the Polish capi tal and onl y New
York coul d boast a larger Jewish communi ty. Yet wi thin
si x years of occupation Warsaws thri ving Jewish scene
was al l but wi ped from the map, over 90% peri shi ng
ei ther in the Ghetto that woul d imprison them or the gas
chambers of Treblinka.
To trace Warsaws Jewish history one must track back to
the 14th century. Although anti-semitism was by no means
rare Poland was seen as a relative safe haven by many
Jews, and it continued to draw in settlers forced into flight
by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the inter-war
years the Jewish population had made signi ficant contribu-
tions to the social, political and cultural fabric of Poland,
a contribution that would eventually be extinguished by
the monstrous racial policies of the Nazis, and that today
exists only in memory. When Warsaw fell following a brief
yet brutal siege the citys ancient Jewish population were
damned to destruction.
Originally the Nazis had earmarked the eastern suburb
of Grochw to serve as a ghetto, but bureaucratic and
logistical di fficulties meant that by 1940 the easy option
was used, and Jews were forcibly penned into an area that
already housed the majority of the citys Jews. On March
27, 1940, the Judenrat, a Jewish council answerable to the
Nazis whims was ordered to build a wall around the area,
and a resettlement deadline of October 15 was handed
to the citys Jews. Failure to move into the assigned area
was to be punished by death. Spanning 18 kilometres and
enclosing 73 of Warsaws 1,800 streets the area was
carved into a small and big ghetto, the two linked by a
wooden bridge standing over ul. Chodna (D-1). Today a
small memorial wall opposite caf Chodna 25 marks this
spot. From the beginning conditions were harsh; recovered
Nazi files show that while ethnic Germans were granted a
food allowance totalling 2,613 calories per day, Jews and
other groups deemed sub-human were expected to survive
on 184 calories. Unsurprisingly a black market supported
by a smuggling network ran ri fe, some 80% of the food in
the ghetto supplied through illegal means. Still it was not
enough and as the noose tightened starvation became the
principal enemy. In 1941 over 100,000 died in this way, their
bodies often left to rot in the streets and gutters.
Of the 800 ghettos scattered around the Third Rei ch
the Warsaw one was the largest, and also the deadli est.
At i ts zeni th the approximatel y 380,000 peopl e found
themsel ves squashed into the ghetto, wi th an average
of ei ght peopl e to a room. Yet ami d this sea of suf fering
a remarkabl e social scene fl ourished, as proved by the
meti culous ghetto diaries kept by Emanuel Ringel blum.
Al though murdered by the Nazis in 1944 after his hi ding
pl ace was di scovered Ri ngel bl um, an i ntell ectual and
social acti vist, kept volumes of notes documenting the
day-to-day li fe of ghetto inhabi tants. Ten metal boxes of
his archi ves were discovered in the ruins of the ci ty in
1946, and are today regarded as the defini ti ve resource
of this period in Jewish history. I t is from his painstak-
ing notes we l earn of the soup ki tchens and chari ti es
that existed, of the musi cal concerts and cabarets and
the fi fty or so underground newspapers that circulated
amongst the masses.
The illusion of a self-contained cruel but surviving parallel
world was shattered in 1942 when the Germans re-ignited
their interest in the total annihilation of the Jews. The Wansee
Conference of January 1942 rubber stamped plans for the
final solution to the Jewish question and on July 22 the first
deportations to death camps had began. Over the next few
weeks around 265,000 Jews were harried to a waiting area
known as Umschlagplatz, from which they were loaded into
cattle wagons destined for the Treblinka gas chambers. A year
later a new action to thin the ghetto was launched, and by April
1943 a final push to completely liquidate the biggest ghetto
was put into swing. For too long the Jews had been limited
to passive resistance, now with rumours circulating about
death camps a band of ill-equipped insurgents faced up to
the full weight of the Nazi military machine. Led by Mordechaj
Anielewicz the Jewish Fighting Organization (OB) launched
what would be recorded as the Ghetto Uprising on April 19,
1943. Numbering a few hundred the Jewish fighters continued
their dogged resistance against elite German and Ukrainian
forces, but faced with heavy artillery and even Stuka Dive
Bombers it was to be a doomed struggle. Vicious street-to-
street, house-to-house battles ensued, insurgents often burnt
out of their boltholes with flamethrowers and gas. On May 8
German forces surrounded the principal command post of the
rebels on ul. Mia 18. Rather than face capture Anielewicz and
his cabal opted for mass suicide, a fate also chosen by Szmul
Zygielblum, a Jewish member of the Polish Government-in-exile
based in London. Addressing allied leaders in his final note
Zygielblum rounded on their perceived indifference towards
the fate of Polands Jews before taking his own life. By May
16 the Uprising was over, with German commander Jurgen
Stroop moved to announce in his report to his superiors The
former Jewish quarter of Warsaw is no longer in existence.
With the fighting over the rest of the ghetto was levelled, and
its inmates either sent to Treblinka or assigned to Gsiwka
(ul. Gsia), a small concentration camp where their duties
would involve clearing the rubble and ruins that formerly con-
stituted the ghetto. It is estimated that some 15,000 Jews
survived the war hiding out on the Aryan side, but with the
war over and the vitriolic anti-Zionist policies of the post-war
government the majority sought a new life in Israel. Today
Warsaws Jewish population is estimated to stand at 2,000
and efforts are underway to gradually reintroduce the citys
hollowed out Jewish culture.
A. Paginska
JEWISH WARSAW
Heroes in horror
Sometimes it takes a tragedy to create a hero; this is never
truer than with the Holocaust, a black time where Nazi terror
was answered with dignity and courage. Anti-Semitism was
rife in pre-war Poland, age old mistrust and urban legend
combining to instil a them and us divide between Jews and
gentiles in fact, so clear was this divide that the inter-war
years saw seated segregation in such grand institutions as
the local university. Under Nazi occupation collaboration
and cooperation with respect to the Jewish policy was
commonplace denouncing Jews and revealing hiding places
bringing with it considerable financial reward. Worse still, there
were several instances of Poles actively taking part in pogroms
and Jew hunts, the most notorious occurring in the town of
Jedwabne in 1941. It was here, on the tenth of July, a mob of
Poles rounded up anything up to 400 Jews, assembling them
in the square while the Nazis looked on. Forcing them to pluck
grass while singing songs was just a prelude to the horror that
followed, and the Jews found themselves marched to a barn
which was subsequently torched. Its a shameful episode
in Polish history, and one immortalized in Jan Gross book
Neighbours. Even after the war, and with the full story of the
Holocaust exposed, anti-Semitism continued to plague the
country, a fact best illustrated by the Kielce Pogrom a 1946
action in which a band of locals killed 42 Jews.
Nevertheless, such events should be offset by another untold
story, that of those who risked life and limb to help the persecuted.
Poland was at the forefront of Nazi terror, and the punishment for
sheltering Jews was death. The policy was unique in the occupied
territories, and ruthlessly enforced whole families often shot for
harbouring Jews. Even so, it is estimated that over three million
Poles actively helped Jews to survive, and over 6,000 Poles have
been recognized by Yad Vashem as being Righteous among
Nations more than in any other country.
In Rozwadow a doctor called Eugeniusz Lazowski, a graduate
of Warsaw University, is credited with saving approximately
8,000 Jews after putting his medical knowledge to use
having injected the towns Jews with a benign form of typhus,
he then informed the Nazis that an epidemic was at large.
Terri fied that it would spread, the Nazis quarantined the
town and left it to its own devices. Known as the Polish
Schindler, Laskowski saved twelve ghetto communities in
this crafty manner. I was not able to fight with a gun or a
sword, Laskowski spoke later, But I was able to find a way to
scare the Germans. He later emigrated to America and died
in 2006, his actions honoured in both the States and Poland.
In Krakow, a gentile pharmacist called Tadeusz Pankiewicz
was given special dispensation to remain in the ghetto,
and exploited this to lend aid to the Jews. Medicine and
vaccines were distributed for free, and his pharmacy now
a museum came to double as a centre of underground
activity. Regarded a hero, Pankiewiczs role in the Holocaust
is remembered in Thomas Kenneallys epic, Schindlers List.
Another doctor, Irena Sendler, is credited with rescuing over
2,500 Jews from the Warsaw ghetto. Born in 1910, Sendler
had a long history of sympathising with the plight of the Jews,
and was suspended for three years from Warsaw University
following her vociferous opposition to segregated benches.
Her father died after contracting typhus from Jewish patients
in his care, but Sendler continued his mission and was active
in the underground the moment war broke out.
Aided by her colleagues she forged over 3,000 documents to
help Jewish families, and later headed the childrens section
of Zegota a secret organization that was a Council to Aid
Jews. Using the fierce looking court building on Solidarnosci
as her bridge from the ghetto to freedom, she smuggled
countless children inside parcels and boxes. The children were
then sent to live in convents and rectories, but not before she
recorded their real identities in a glass jar she kept buried at
home. Her actions aroused the attention of the Gestapo, and
in 1943 she was arrested, tortured and sentenced to death. A
bribe from Zegota saved her life, but nonetheless she was left
unconscious in a forest, with both her arms and legs broken.
She was officially declared dead by the Germans, and spent
the rest of the war in hiding.
But even peace brought no respite; she was persecuted by the
communist authorities on account of her wartime relations with
the exiled government, and faced constant harassment in the
post-war years. In 2003 Pope John Paul II sent her a letter praising
her for her courage, and later that year she was awarded the
Order of the White Eagle Polands highest civilian decoration.
She died in 2008, though even now remains a target of hate; in
July, 2010, her grave was vandalized with the words Jews Out.
Finally, Jan Karski, is remembered in the history books as
the man who tried to stop the Holocaust. Born in Lodz, 1914,
Karski was the son of a factory owner and the youngest
of eight children. Gifted with a photographic memory and
a fluent command of foreign languages he soon came to
the attention of the Polish diplomatic services, landing
prestigious posts in London and Paris. With Europe gearing
up for war Karski joined the horse artillery, and his unit found
itself shunted across Poland as the nation made a desperate
bid to defend its borders from Nazi and Soviet invasion.
Captured by the Red Army Karski avoided death in the forests of
Katyn when his Soviet captors handed him over to the Germans
in an exchange of prisoners. He escaped from a train transporting
him to a POW camp, and then headed to Warsaw where he made
contact with the Polish underground. Realizing the value of his
remarkable memory his superiors decided to employ him as a
courier, a perilous position that involved crossing frontlines in
order to swap information with other allied nations.
One such foray onto foreign soil saw him captured by the
Gestapo while crossing the Slovakian Tatra mountains. He
slit his wrists following an intense bout of torture, and found
himself sectioned in a closely guarded hospital in Nowy Sacz.
Determined not to lose their star courier a crack team of Polish
troops broke him out and Karski resumed his duties after a
period of recovery. In 1942 he was chosen to undertake a daring
mission to meet Wladyslaw Sikorski Prime Minister of Polands
government-in-exile in London, the purpose being to reveal the
extent of German atrocities taking place in occupied Poland.
To gather information he was smuggled into the Warsaw Ghetto,
and given a graphic tour of the hunger and horror manifesting
behind the walls. The experience proved so powerful that Karski
later found himself questioning his own memory, and decided a
second visit was in order to convince himself that what he had
seen was real. This time, disguised as a Ukrainian guard, he
infiltrated a transit camp in Izbica, and was witness to random
brutalities, as well as cattle wagon transports leading Jews to the
gas chambers. He successfully made it to England via Germany,
France and Spain, and was granted an audience with foreign
secretary Antony Eden, as well as Sikorski and the leader of
the Jewish Bun maddeningly, his testimonies fell on deaf ears.
In the following decades his attempt to stop the holocaust
was allowed to gather dust, and only came to public attention
with the release of the 1978 epic film, Shoah. He died in 2000,
eight years after his Jewish/Polish wife, herself a holocaust
survivor, had committed suicide.
124
125
JEWISH WARSAW TREBLINKA
For the overwhelming majority of Warsaws wartime Jews
their journey was destined to end in one place, a hitherto
unknown village called Treblinka. Set 100 kilometres north
west of Warsaw this small rural community would find itself
unwittingly thrust into the eye of the Holocaust, its name
forever etched in mankinds roll of shame.
Getting There
Treblinka remains a backwater town, and as such travellers
are going struggle to reach it. Put simply, either hire a car
and fire up the GPS, or contact one of the Warsaw-based
tour companies listed who will be happy to tailor a visit for
you. Alternatively, hire a six person minibus for 250z - call
604 89 63 97 for further details.
History
Split into two separate sections, Treblinka I and Treblinka II,
Treblinka I was originally established in the summer of 1941,
and functioned as a Polish slave labour camp. Treblinka II,
the death camp, opened the following year, receiving its first
human cargo on July 22, 1942. It was designed for the sole
purpose of murder, a function it fulfilled well. Measuring 400
by 600 metres, and surrounded with barbed wire fences
and watchtowers, the camp was carefully blended into the
heavily wooded landscape in an effort to mask its existence.
Consisting of a barracks, an armoury and storage areas, the
camp also had a fenced off living area housing 1,000 Jews
employed to clear bodies, hammer out teeth and shave
hair. It was also home to the reception area, where cattle
wagons loaded with Jews would screech to a halt. Built to
resemble a legitimate train station, it was decorated with
clocks, timetables, posters and even an infirmary replete
with a Red Cross banner. In actual fact the infirmary was
no more than a sinister faade to an execution pit, used to
murder prisoners too weak to march to the gas chambers.
Having been stripped naked, arrivals at Treblinka I were then
herded up the tube, a fenced off path leading to the shower
block. It was here that prisoners were ushered into gas cham-
bers disguised as bathhouses. Carbon monoxide would then
be piped through showerheads, taking as long as half an hour
to asphyxiate those locked inside. At the height of the killing
process up to 20 railway carriages could be processed within a
period of one to two hours. At first bodies were simply buried in
mass graves but by 1943, in an attempt to conceal all traces of
genocide, corpses were cremated on massive pyres.
Several escape attempts were launched by the permanent
staff of Jewish prisoners, with the biggest coming on August 2,
1943. Having obtained a key to the armoury, a core of around
70 prisoners aimed to storm the Nazi barricades, liberate the
other prisoners and flee to the forests. The plan was disrupted
when an SS officer, Kurt Kuttner, noticed the rebels raiding the
munitions store. He was killed on the spot, but the shots alerted
the other guards who launched a swift counter-action. In the
brief but fierce gun battle that followed many buildings were
torched, but only a handful of prisoners succeeded in escaping.
Following the uprising, and a similar one at Sobibor, Himmler
took the decision to close down the Aktion Reinhard death
camps. By October 4, 1943 Treblinka was levelled, reforested
and a family of Ukrainian peasants re-settled on the adjacent
farmland. Although it is impossible to place an accurate
figure on the number of people slaughtered, conservative
estimates suggest that anything from 700,000 to 900,000
people were murdered during the camps existence. Of the
number of Jews who passed through its gates it is thought
that fewer than 100 lived to see the end of the war.
Following the war several German and Ukrainian guards
were charged with crimes relating to their time at Treblinka.
Most escaped with light sentences ranging from three to
What to See
Jewish Cemetery (Cmentarz ydowski) D-1,
ul. Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www.
beisolam.jewish.org.pl. In spite of sporadic disrepair
and neglect, this remains a beauti ful and poignant place
to visi t. The cemetery was ori ginall y founded in 1806
and currently houses around 250,000 tombs. Amongst
those buried here are Ludwik Zamenhof, inventor of the
international language Esperanto. Q Open from 10:00
till dusk, Fri 09:00-13:00, Sun 09:00-16:00. Closed Sat.
Admission 8z.
Jewish Historical Institute (ydowski Instytut
Historyczny im. Emanuela Ringelbluma) B-2, ul.
Tomackie 3/5, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl.
A chilling recollection of Polish Jewry and the only institution
in Poland focusing entirely on the study of the history and
culture of the Polish Jews, this amazing building houses
permanent and temporary exhibits relating to secular and
religious Jewish life in the country from its beginnings to the
annihilation of the Jews in Poland during WWII and beyond.
As well as an excellent bookshop, the institutes museum,
opened in 1948, features a large interactive display in the
entrance hall that allows its users to find out about Jewish life
in any part of the country, the extraordinary Warsaw Ghetto
1940-1943 exhibition, religious treasures, an archive and a
small cinema. Particularly poignant is the collection of photo-
graphs taken in the Warsaw Ghetto by Heinz Jost, a German
innkeeper who served in the German army and whose almost
snapshot-style photographs speak volumes about the place
and the time. Essential visiting. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Thu
11:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Last entrance
1 hour before closing. Admission 10/5z. Y
Monument to the
Gh e t t o He r o e s
(Pomnik Bohaterw
Getta) A- 1, ul. Za-
menhofa. Designed by
Natan Rappaport, the
monument pays tri b-
ute to the heroes of the
Ghetto Uprising of 1943.
Found between (E-1) ul.
Anielewicza, Zamenho-
fa, Lewartowskiego and
Karmelicka it here that
the heaviest fighting took
place. In an ironic quirk,
the stone cladding on the
monument was originally
ordered from Sweden by
Hitler for a victory arch.
N o y k S y n a -
gogue (Synagoga
Noykw) E- 3, ul .
Twarda 6, tel. (+48)
502 40 08 49, www.
warszawa.jewish.org.
pl. Built between 1898
and 1902 in a neo-Ro-
manesque st yl e, thi s
was the only Warsaw synagogue to survive the ravages
of war. It was fully restored between 1977 and 1983. Now
open for worship. Q Open 09:00-19:00, Fri 09:00-14:00,
Sun 11:00-19:00. Closed Sat. No visiting during services.
Groups of more than ten should reserve in advance. Ad-
mission 6z.
Traces of the Ghetto Foll owing the Ghetto Uprising
the whol e area was l evell ed so few traces remain. I f you
duck into the courtyard at (E-3) ul. Sienna 55 you will see
a remaining part of the ghetto wall compl ete wi th a com-
memorative plaque. Possibly the only street that survived
the mael strom of 1943 i s the depressi ng ul. Prna
(B-3). The tenement houses were buil t between 1880
and 1900 and were once home to Warsaws thri vi ng
Jewish communi ty. Once a bustling street full of traders
and hardware stores i t now li es forl orn and negl ected; a
haunting epi taph to the past. Somewhat impressi vel y,
however, the l ocal government have deci ded to honour
Warsaws Holocaust history by introducing a ghetto trail.
Developed wi th the help of the Jewish Historical Insti tute
the route has seen the boundary of the former Ghetto
outlined on pavements, as well as the appearance of 21
dual language information boards positioned in places of
parti cular interest - eg, the spot where a wooden bri dge
once connected the small Ghetto wi th the bi g Ghetto.
Umschlagplatz E-1. Found on ul. Stawki (E-1), close to
the intersection wi th ul. Dzika, Umschlagplatz is a bl eak,
slightl y disappointing monument marking the spot where
around 300,000 Jews were l oaded on cattl e wagons
bound for Trebli nka. The Nazi commandant i n charge
of the deportations li ved directl y opposi te on ul. Stawki
5/7. Lying between Umschlagplatz and the Monument to
the Ghetto Heroes lies the legendary monument labelled
Mi a 18 (note: this is not the address where you can find
the monument). Essential l y no more than a symbol i c
grassy knoll, i t marks the spot from where the Ghetto
Uprising was directed.
Willy Brandt Statue A-2, Skwer Willy Brandta.
On December 7, 1970 images were flashed across the
worl d of German Chancellor Will y Brandt knel t in pensi ve
apol ogy in front of Warsaws Monument to the Ghetto
Heroes. Popularl y known as the kni efall the spontane-
ous gesture was to become a symbol of reconciliation
between east and west, wi th Brandt later confessing,
under the wei ght of German history, and carrying the
burden of the millions who were murdered, I di d what
peopl e do when words fai l them. A monument com-
memorati ng hi s l andmark act was unveil ed 30 years
later in the north east corner of the park that houses
the Monument to the Ghetto Heroes. Made of bri ck, and
featuring a brass relief designed by Wiktoria Czechowska
Antoniewska, the monument was unveiled by a delegation
that included Brandts widow, Danzig-born author Gunter
Grass, Chancell or Gerhard Schroeder and Polish Prime
Minister Jerzy Buzek. The square in whi ch i t is l ocated
has also since been named in honour of Brandt.
Decades of apathy and lack of funds have meant
that until now Warsaw has had li ttl e wi th which to
commemorate its Jewish heritage. That looks set to
change with the opening of the Museum of the History
of Polish Jews, a state-of-the-art multimedia exhibit
that will chronicle the 1,000 year presence of Jews in
Poland. Opening was initially planned for 2008, now
after many setbacks it has been announced that the
opening day will be April 19, 2013 to coincide with the
70th anniversary of the start of the Ghetto Uprising.
Take a look at what you can expect when the museum
finally takes root at the English language website found
at www.jewishmuseum.org.pl.
Coming soon?
twelve years. The camp commander, Franz Stangl, fled to
Syria and from there to Brazil, until he was finally extradited
to face justice in 1970. He died in prison the following year,
apparently unrepentant.
What to See
What is there to see? Well, not much. The Nazis did a deft
job of erasing their crimes, and visitors will require a vivid
imagination so as to picture what was. Nevertheless, with
some prior knowledge your bumpy journey will be ultimately
rewarded; what Treblinka lacks in physical sites it makes up
for with sheer skin-prickling menace, and a trip out here is
sure to leave you pondering for some time.
Stock up on literature at the car park hut, before making your
way to the small exhibition house. Set across two rooms visi-
tors will find a series of items recovered from the site - torah
scrolls, cutlery, coins and other keepsakes - as well as a few
period photographs illustrating life at the camp. However,
the real pull here is the scale model, an intricate work which
really brings the grounds to life - details here include a zoo
built for the enjoyment of the SS, a Disney style stone tower
and the neatly trimmed flower beds past which Jews would
have filed on their way to the gas chambers. Its a fascinating
work, and one which provides plenty of pause for thought.
Back outside, a trail of symbolic train tracks show the route
trains from Warsaw would have followed before finally termi-
nating at Treblinka platform. For the Jews crammed inside
the cattle wagons this represented the last stop in their
persecution. Then, directly up ahead, comes the climax of
the camp - marking the execution grounds lie hundreds of
jagged memorial stones, each one inscribed with the name
of a lost community. Its among these - to the left of your
approach - youll find the only stone dedicated to a person.
That man is Janusz Korczak, a pedagogue and author who
famously turned down safe passage from the ghetto in
order to stay with the orphaned children entrusted in his
care. His most famous work is the childrens tale King Matt
the First (Krl Maciu Pierwszy), the adventure story of
a young king. As well as telling the story of how the young
king deals with the challenges of power in a bygone age, it
is also a thinly veiled representation of historical events in
Poland and describes many of the social reforms the young
king introduces, many targeting children and many of which
Korczak himself introduced into his own orphanage. While
some of the language might be considered politically incor-
rect 90 years on it is a fascinating book and one that children
today can still enjoy immensely.
Marking the site of the gas chamber stands an overpowering
monument designed by Franciszek Duszenki, a message in
front of it simply stating: Never Again. Its an eerie experi-
ence, and the sense of evil palpable. However, there is also
more. Unknown to many, a second camp also functioned
at Treblinka, a labour camp primarily populated by Poles.
Continuing through the route cut through the forest, a stony
path leads past a concrete guard bunker before culminating
at the vast gravel pit where up to 2,000 Poles were forced
into back breaking work. In the field further on, concrete
flooring and some foundations mark the outline of former
prisoner barracks, while a number of crosses mark what was
once the execution grounds. Ultimately haunting, Treblinka
is a must see for anyone with a passing interest in modern
history - absent are the endless exhibits of Auschwitz, yet
even without these this place has a high impact factor which
will leave visitors silent.
Museum of Struggle and Martyrdom in Treblinka
(Muzeum Walki i Mczestwa w Treblince) Tre-
blinka, Kosw Lacki, tel. (+48) 25 781 16 58, www.
muzeum-treblinka.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Admission 4z.
126
127
LEISURE
Torwar H-4, ul. azienkowska 6a, www.torwar.pl. Q
Open 11:00 - 12:30, 18:30 - 20:00, Thu 20:00 - 21:30.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Fri. From March open Sat, Sun only
11:00 - 12:30, 18:30 - 20:00. Admission 12/8z. Skate
rental 7z.
Kids fun
Kamelot ul. Grczewska 124 (first floor of Wola Park),
tel. (+48) 22 533 41 09, www.kolorado.com.pl. QOpen
10:00 - 21:00. Admission 22-29z.
Shooting
Shooting Club (ZKS) ul. Marymoncka 42 (Bielany),
tel. (+48) 22 834 41 08, www.zks.waw.pl. A shooting
range in Bielany where you can hire guns (25-50z) and an
English-speaking instructor can be arranged if you contact
them in advance. If you are carrying your own weapon the
price drops to 15-25z. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Mon, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 17:00.
Skiing
CSN Szczliwice ul. Drawska 22 (Ochota), tel.
(+48) 22 622 69 61, www.stok.wosir.waw.pl. Skiing
and snowboarding on an area of 35,000 sq/m. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 12-23z per hour.
Sleigh rides
Stajnia Agmaja ul. Wybrzee Gdyskie 2 (oliberz),
tel. (+48) 722 95 01 86, www.agmaja.pl. One hour
sl ei gh ri des for 6-8 peopl e cost around 200z. For ad-
di ti onal fees guests can add bonfi res wi th food and
mull ed wine.
Wilczeniec Country Club (Klub Wiejski Wilcze-
niec) ul. Kocielna Droga 10, omianki, tel. (+48) 22
751 97 77, www.wilczeniec.pl. Sleigh rides available for
a minimum group of 12 people. The 350z fee includes tea
and sausages during a bonfire. There is also the possibility
of other food and beverages for additional fees. Sleigh rides
typically last about one hour.
Squash
Squash City Al. Jerozolimskie 179 (CH Blue City,
Ochota), tel. (+48) 22 499 64 66, www.squashcity.pl.
Nine air-conditioned courts. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 22:00. Admission 30-65z.
Swimming
Polna F-4, ul. Polna 7a, tel. (+48) 22 825 71 34, www.
osir-polna.pl. Includes a kids pool, sauna, Jacuzzi and water
slide. Length 25m, depth 1.25-1.8m. QOpen 06:30 - 21:30.
Admission 15/10z per hour.
Wodnik ul. Abrahama 10 (Praga Poudnie), tel. (+48)
22 673 82 00, www.wodnik.waw.pl. Includes sauna,
Jacuzzi and slide. Length 25m, depth 1.4-1.8m. Q Open
06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 22:00. Admission 16/11z
per hour. Sauna additional 4zl.
Wodny Park ul. Merliniego 4 (Mokotw), tel. (+48)
22 854 01 30, www.wodnypark.com.pl. Heres the best
pool of the lot with facilities including saunas, steam rooms,
snow cabins, solariums as well as loads of slides and other
Bowling
Arco Bowling Alley D-5, ul. Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920
19, tel. (+48) 22 668 75 91, www.arco-bowling.pl. Two
floors, 32 lanes, restaurant and club. 80-150z per lane per
hour, shoes and instructor included. QOpen 16:00 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
Entertainment centres
Hokus Pokus ul. Powstacw lskich 126A (Cinema
City, Bemowo), tel. (+48) 22 560 42 42, www.hpokus.
pl. Open 10:00-24:00, Admission for bowling is 40-99zl per
hour. Features a bowling alley, a bar with pool tables and
darts and a video games area.
Hulakula Leisure Centre C-3, ul. Dobra 56/66 (Uni-
versity Library), tel. (+48) 22 552 74 00, www.hulakula.
com.pl. Includes a bowling alley, club, restaurant, pool hall,
climbing wall and indoor playground for children. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat
10:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
Fitness Clubs & Gyms
Leisure Club C-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 42/44
(Le Mridien Bristol Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 551 18 05,
www.warsaw.lemeridien.com. Luxury fitness and swimming
facilities in the Bristol Hotel. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00, Fri 06:00 -
22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. Admission 50-70z, children 30z.
Golf
Golf Park Driving Range ul. Vogla 19 (Wilanw),
tel. (+48) 22 424 70 83, www.golfparkspoland.pl. For
25z you get 50 balls for use on the driving range. QOpen
08:00 - 21:00.
Golf Park Jzefw ul. Telimeny 1, Jzefw, tel. (+48)
22 778 30 90, www.holiday.aquila.pl. Opened in 2007 Golf
Swing features a six hole course, flood lit driving range, golf
classes and club rental. The course is open outside of winter
while the driving range is open all year round with 45 balls
costing 20zl. Q Open 10:00-17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00.
From March open 09:00-21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-22:00.
Ice skating
Figlowisko Al. Komisji Edukacji Narodowej (Ursynw),
tel. (+48) 504 24 59 10, www.figlowisko.pl. Round the
clock skating at rink. Q Open 24hrs. Admission 10/7z for
one hour plus a one-off skate hire price of 5z. Every-other
hour is free.
PKiN Ice rink A-3, Pl. Defilad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656 76
00, www.pkin.pl. Skating is free of charge. Skate rental
costs 7z for the first hour and 5z for every subsequent
hour. Opening for the season December 6 (weather permit-
ting). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.
Admission free.
LEISURE
recreational facilities. Prices range from 19-25z/11-19z
per hour. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00.
(Spa open 11:00-22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-22:00. Admission
27-42/20-35z)
Spa & Beauty
Club Oasis G-5, ul. Belwederska 23, tel. (+48) 22 851
05 63, www.cluboasis.pl. Spa, fitness, swimming pool,
wet and dry sauna as well as beauty treatments. One day
pass: 100z. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00.
Le Spa C-4, ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. (+48) 22 622 94
28, www.lespa.pl. This is an authorized Guerlain beauty
parlour. In addition to spa and beauty treatments they have
emergency services: the last minute treatment is a facial
and make up job fixed within an hour, or you can top up your
tan in less than an hour with the before party package.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Mon 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -
17:00. Closed Sun.
Oasis Beauty Day SPA B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79,
tel. (+48) 22 630 64 70, www.oasisbeautydayspa.pl. A
range of beauty and spa treatments, including therapeutic
massage and therapeutic pedicure located underneath the
Marriott in the LIM centre shopping passage. Reach it by
heading into the shopping area of the Marriott/LOT building
and taking the escalator to the -1 level. Q Open 08:30-
20:30, Sat 09:00-15:00, Sun open on request.
RiverView Wellness Centre A- 4, ul. Emilii Plater
49 (InterContinental), tel. (+48) 22 328 86 40, www.
riverview.com.pl. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00
- 21:00. Admission 100-150z.
Tennis
AZS Tennis Club H-2, ul. Zieleniecka 2, tel. (+48)
22 619 15 40. Tennis round the clock. Q Open 24hrs.
50-80z per hour.
City Tennis Club G-6, ul. Merliniego 2, tel. (+48) 695
83 68 80. Located on ul. Merliniego, they offer tennis courts
(50-90z/per hour), lessons with an English-speaking coach
(60-160z/per hour), equipment rental (by prior arrangement)
and social lessons for expats. They also cooperate with
partner courts on: (F-1) ul. Midzyparkowa 4, (H-2) ul. Ziele-
niecka 2 and (H-7) ul. Inspektowa 1. QOpen 06:00 - 21:00.
Zoo
Zoo G-1, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41,
www.zoo.waw.pl. Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers
an area of 40 hectares and attracts some 500,000 visi-
tors each year. Four elephants, a family of seals and a lion
cub were added to the current collection of reptiles, birds
and tigers. Conditions have improved dramatically in recent
years, though a visit here will do little to change any opinions
you have on locking animals in cages. As with every major
Warsaw landmark, the zoo has plenty of war stories. It was
bombed at the beginning of the conflict and by 1945 all the
animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich,
eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan
abiski, became something of a hero; wounded during
the 1944 Uprising, abiski helped save countless lives
by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo.
The zoo officially re-opened in 1949. Q Open 09:00-15:30.
Last entrance 1 hour before closing. From March 15 open
09:00-17:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission
17/12z. Children under 3 years free.
Hulakula Bowling Al-
ley C-3, ul. Dobra 56/66
(University Library), tel.
(+48) 22 552 74 00,
www.hul akul a.com.pl .
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Thu
12:00 - 01:00, Fri 12:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 04:00,
Sun 10:00 - 24:00. 50-120z per hour. Shoes included.
128
d may l ook l i ke i ts pro-
nounced Lodz, but it most cer-
tainly isnt. Think of it as Woodge,
and three hundred years ago a
visit here would have produced
the sight of little more than one
man and his dog. In terms of
age d is one of the young-
est cities in the country, and a
direct product of the Industrial
Revolution. And while d can-
not boast the twee charisma of
Prague and Krakw a scratch
of the surface rewards the intrepid traveller with a city
stuffed with wacky stories, dark history and some of the
countries finest after-dark venues youll find them all
inside our 13th issue of d In Your Pocket; Polands
first comprehensive English-language guide to the city.
d In Your Pocket
Getting there
Lodz lies 140km south west of Warsaw and is easily ac-
cessed by train. When modernization finishes Lodz will be
within an hours reach of Warsaw, but for the time being
journey time is around one hour and forty minutes, while they
continue to work on the new high speed link. If youre travelling
from the capital youll need to book a ticket running to d
Fabryczna train station. The city centre is directly across the
road from the main entrance: take the underpass and carry
on walking west and youll find yourself on the main street,
ulica Piotrkowska, within ten minutes. For longer journeys
taxis stand directly outside the main entrance, though travel-
lers should only use cabs that are clearly marked.
Some basics
d first appeared in written records in 1332 under the
name of odzia and remained little more than a rural back-
water for the following centuries, with a population numbering
just 800 as late as the 16th century.
The birth of modern d as we know it can be traced to 1820,
when statesman, philosopher and writer Stanisaw Staszic be-
gan a campaign to turn the Russian-controlled city into a centre
of manufacturing. The first cotton mill was opened in 1825
and by 1839 the first steam-powered factory in Poland and
Russia was officially christened. A massive influx of workers
from as far afield as Portugal, England and France flooded the
city, though the mainstay of the towns population remained
Poles, Germans and Jews. Within a matter of decades d
had grown into the biggest textile production centre in the
Russian Empire, during which time vast fortunes were made
and lost by the major industrialist families.
By the outbreak of WWI the town stood out as one of the
most densely populated cities on the planet with a popula-
tion of approximately 13,000 people per square kilometre.
But hard times were around the corner; the inter-war years
signaled an end to the towns Golden Age, and the loss of
Russian and German economic markets led to strikes and
civil unrest that were to become a feature of inter-war d.
Things were about to get worse: the outbreak of WWII saw
the city annexed into The Third Reich.
The following six years of occupation left the population
decimated with 120,000 Poles killed, and an estimated
300,000 Jews perishing in what was to become known as
the Litzmannstadt ghetto. Following the war, and with much
of Warsaw in ruins, d was used as Polands temporary
capital until 1948. The wholesale war-time destruction of
Warsaw also saw many of Polands eminent artists and
cultural institutes decamp to the nearest big city; that city
was d, and today the town can boast a rich cultural
heritage, with Polands leading film school, one of the most
important modern art galleries in Europe, and an exciting
underground culture.
Today d is a city slowly rediscovering itself, growing in
confidence and coming to terms with its patchy history.
Overlooked by many visitors to Poland, this is a city full of
hidden charms: from the awesome palaces that belonged to
the hyper-rich industrialists who made the city, to Europes
l ongest pedestrian street (Piotrkowksa) to the largest
municipal park in Europe. Youll find everything you need to
know about the city in our print guide to d, as well as our
full content online at www.inyourpocket.com.
Manufaktura
How many times have you heard a shopping centre call itself
More than a shopping centre? In the case of Manufaktura, for
once the hyperbole is entirely justified. For this is indeed more
than a shopping centre. In fact, we really shouldnt be calling
it a shopping centre at all. Covering a space of 150,000m
2

Manufaktura does of course feature a mall with endless
shopping opportunities, but that would not tell the full story.
Manufaktura today i s the resul t of Pol ands l argest
renovation project since the reconstruction of Warsaws
Old Town in the 1950s. Originally a series of factories that
were constructed in the latter part of the 19th century the
restoration of the old factories quite simply has to be seen to
be believed. Enter through the Poznaski gate, where workers
used to file through everyday on their way to the mills, and
youll arrive at the projects ground zero: the 30,000m
2
Rynek
(main square). Featuring Europes longest fountain the square
is the cultural hub, with restaurants, fitness club and IMAX
cinema crowded around it. A full program of events is planned
to keep things lively, including pop concerts, beer festival and
big screen showings of sports events.
Manufaktura is visited by close on 20 million visitors a year and
has become the new heart of the city. For the more languorous
character two electric tramlines have also been added to ferry
visitors from one end of the complex to the other. And in spite
all of this Manufaktura remains very much a work in progress
with new additions and changes happening all the time. The
complex can boast a state of the art 4-star Andels hotel, a
Museum of Art as well as the History of Lodz museum set in
the palace of the former mill owner Izrael Poznanski.
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130
SHOPPING
131
SHOPPING
Alcohol
Of course you didnt come to Poland just for the booze,
but while youre here itd be rude not to check out what
the country has to offer. Primarily that means vodka, with
the two most highly regarded clear Polish vodkas being
Bel vedere and Chopin. Find them in any alcohol store.
Others to watch for include ubrwka - thats the one with
the blade of bison grass inside - krupnik, a sweet honey
vodka, and winiwka, a sickly sweet cherry drink usually
consumed after meals. Finally, check Goldwasser, a unique
elixir characterized by the 22 karat gold flakes floating in
it. Bottle shops are numerous in Poland, as common as
cabbage, though the ones we list come guaranteed to have
no tramps or underage teens.
Chopin Luxury A-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 22 222 01 03, www.polmos-siedlce.com.pl. More
than an off-license, more like everything youve ever wished
for before embarking on a Leaving Las Vegas session. Expect
cream-of-the-crop alcohols of every name and origin, not just
Polish. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
M&P Alkohole i Wina wiata E-3, ul. Paska 81/83,
tel. (+48) 22 652 85 22, www.wina-mp.pl. Wines and
assorted alcohol from Poland and across the world. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Vinoteka La Bodega C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 6/12, tel.
(+48) 22 745 46 10, www.vinoteka.pl. A smart outlet
located in the building that used to serve as the home to the
Polish Communist party. Alongside a very good restaurant
find a retail outlet offering a wide range of wines from around
the world as well as high-end spirits and wine accessories.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
Amber and jewellery
Vodka isnt the only golden nectar popular in Poland; the
country is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who
handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and
coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without
bringing baby some Baltic Gold and youve booked your-
sel f a stint in the doghouse. The best place to begin your
search is the Old Town, which is filled with purveyors of
amber baubles.
Frey Wille C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 37, tel. (+48) 22 827
55 03, www.frey-wille.com. Fine jewellery and fashion ac-
cessories inspired by masters like Klimt and Mucha. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
W.Kruk C- 4, Al. Jerozolimskie 11/19, tel. (+48) 661
98 05 74, www.wkruk.pl. Polish jewellery, amber and
watches from various international brand names including
Emporio Armani, Rolex, Zenith, IWC, Omega, Tag Heuer,
Maurice Lacroix, Longines, Tissot, Roamer, Anne Klein,
Certina. Watches only available at these locations: (C-4)
Pl. Trzech Krzyy 8, ul. Okopowa 58/72 (D-1, Kli f) and Pl.
Konstytucji 6 (F-4). QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 -
14:00. Closed Sun.
World of Amber B-2, ul. witojaska 11, tel. (+48)
22 831 16 00, www.worldofamber.pl. This is truth in
advertising at its best. World of Amber is, literally, a world
filled with all things amber. Interested in a three-masted
pirate ship made of amber? How about a goblet trimmed
in amber? A glasses case? Beyond these unusual trinkets
World of Amber also has the usual beads, rings, neck-
breaking pendants and bracelets that are a must-have
EMPiK C-4, ul. Nowy wiat 15/17, tel. (+48) 22 627
06 50, www.empik.com. A hefty selection of international
magazines and newspapers as well as music, video games
and movies. Theres also an EMPiK megastore nearby at
ul. Marszakowska 116/122 QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
11:00 - 19:00.
Traffic Club C- 4, ul. Bracka 25, tel. (+48) 22 692
14 50, www.traffic-club.pl. Vast multi-level store selling
English-language books, DVDs, CDs and foreign language
press. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.
Fashion and accessories
The stylish denizens of Warsaws streets are an easy indi-
cator that fashion is important in the capital city. Trot out
anything less than your best and it wont go unnoticed, we
promise you. With the opening of dom mody VITKAC the city
has seen the arrival of major labels like Gucci and Lanvin,
and the Likus Concept Store is a reliable go-to for the latest
designer offerings. But you dont have to stick to the big
fashion houses here. Polish stores like Tatuum and Morka+
offer distinct style at reasonable prices, so kit yourself out
accordingly. For lots of options in one location check out
Warsaws shopping centers like Zlote Tarasy and Arkadia.
Burberry C-4, Pl. Trzech Krzyy 3, tel. (+48) 22 584
70 40, www.burberry.com. British luxury fashion house
known for their classic trench coats and signature tartan
fabric slings apparel for both sexes. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Charms C-3, ul. Chmielna 9, tel. (+48) 695 33 34 47,
www.dedicated-charms.pl. Personalised charm bracelets
for both women and men using all sorts of jewellery including
silver, Swarovski and coloured stones. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
souvenir. The shop has a large number of knowledgeable
staff, which means youre never left lingering over a glass
case waiting in vain for service. Which we like even more
than the chess set made entirely of amber. We swear. Also
at (B-2) ul. witojaska 14, (B-2) ul. Piwna 12/14 and (B-2)
ul. Piwna 26. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
YES A-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22 222
08 38, www.yes.com.pl. Yes jewelry stores can be found
throughout Poland, and will impress with their array of acces-
sible (Pandora) and classic (Polish amber) options. Keep an
eye out for unique Polish designers. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00,
Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
Antiques and Art Galleries
A walk through the streets of old and new town is usually
enough to fulfil antiquarian designs, as will a short mooch
along Mokotowska. However, anybody whose anybody will
tell you the real treasures are found elsewhere, namely the
excellent Bazar Na Kole, an open-air market where haggling
and bargaining are considered de rigeur. For full details on
that check Markets. If youre planning on taking an artwork
out of the country, and it was produced prior to 1945, you
will need authorisation to permit you to do so. Most shops
will be able to provide you with this straight off the bat, but
do check beforehand.
Anytkwariat Lamus B-1, ul. Nowomiejska 7, tel.
(+48) 22 831 63 21, www.lamus.pl. On first glance youll
spot the shelves packed with old books and encyclopaedias
and want to thumb your nose, but a further peek inside
Lamus reveals bins of prints waiting to be sifted through.
Old Warsaw cityscapes, drawings of Polish flora and fauna
and even the off bit of vintage erotica can be found by those
intrepid enough to dig, and the walls are hung with old maps
that are also for sale. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 -
15:00. Closed Sun.
Desa Modern F-4, Pl. Konstytucji 2, tel. (+48) 664 98
14 61, www.desamodern.pl. Modern art courtesy of some
of the biggest names in Polish contemporary art circles.
Dom Aukcyjny Criterion ul. Bokserska 64 (Mo-
kotw), tel. (+48) 22 847 89 77, www.antykiweb.eu.
Oriental, English and European antiques that range from
furniture to artwork. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Books, Music & Films
Good luck finding your morning paper, despite the millions
of flights that land each morning at Okcie most English
language dailys dont hit the shops until the afternoon,
sometimes not till the next day. The most comprehensive
source of foreign press can be found at EMPiK, though Traf-
fic and Relay (main hall of central train station) also stock a
smattering of titles. Try, also, the newsagents found in five
star hotels. On that score we rate the Sheraton and Marriott
as the most likely to stock on-the-day papers. As far as
magazines are concerned, EMPiK blows the competition out
of the water, though you can expect to pay a hefty mark-up
for your mag of choice.
EMPiK also have a small corner reserved for English lan-
guage trash titles and classics, though when it comes to
books most people wont look beyond the pleasures of the
American Bookstore. This place is the final word in expat
book buying, with great, up-to-date stock and discount cards
for repeat customers. Dont dare, whatever you do, overlook
our discovery of the year, second hand bookstore Reddings.
Its not Dubai, its not Hong Kong, its not Milan and its
not London. Warsaw has a long way to go before its
regarded as a shopping Mecca, but the city is seeing
true growth in the array of shops available and the
number big-name labels that are opening storefronts.
Whether its western style malls, designer boutiques,
dusty family stores or antique markets a day spent
shopping can result in both bargains and treasures,
and theres presents to be had for everyone on your
list (including yoursel f).
Wife or girlfriend
When we think of what the ladies would like, one word
comes to mind: amber. Poland is well known as the
best place to find handsomely shaped fossilised resin,
and you can easily nab a piece that will please at the
appropriately named World of Amber or famed Polish
jeweller W. Kruk.
Husband or boyfriend
One word: vodka. Another word: l ard. Take home
Pol ands famous nectar and a contai ner of smal ec
(spreadabl e l ard) and youl l make any man happy.
Krakowski Kredens carri es tubs of the greasy
stuf f, whi l e youl l fi nd popul ar Pol i sh vodka brands
l i ke ubrwka and Bel vedere at Chopin Luxury
and M&P.
Brother
Euro 2012 fever has gripped Poland, and Intersport at
Zlote Tarasy is the official shop for licensed Euro 2012
apparel. Grab your brother an array of t-shirts and sweat-
shirts bearing the colourful Euro 2012 insignia and hell
feel like his sporting best.
Sister
If sis is a stylish gal head to Morka+ in Saska Kepa for
the fashion-forward pieces created by Polish designer
Ewa Morka. For high-end options the new domMody
VITKAC is filled with name brands like Gucci and Alex-
ander McQueen, and the Likus Concept Store is one
of our fashion favourites.
Child
If youre looking for souvenir-y staples like bright red
Polska onesies and dolls dressed in traditional Polish
garb, look no further than Cepelia and Neptunea. For
something on the educational end of the spectrum we
recommend you raid the Science Store at the Coper-
nicus Science Centre; games, experiments and books
for all ages await.
Mom
Gi ve mom some monk-like zen wi th soaps and l o-
tions from Produkty Benedyktyskie, whi ch car-
ri es a vari ety of products created by the brothers
at Tyni ec Abbey i n Krakow. I f she skews towards
sweets then snag a box Polish truf fl es at Pijalnie
Czekolady Wedel.
Dad
If your dad is anything like ours he can lose hours of his
life in interesting vintage bookshops. Warsaw is packed
with them, and Antykwariat Lamus is one of the best
for old postcards, unique prints, old books and yellowing
maps from last century.
Shopping at a Glance
I f youre visiting Poland and plan to pay for any pur-
chases with a credit card whose base currency isnt
Polish zloty (and unless youre Polish, this probably
means you) odds are you may find merchants asking
whether you want to be charged in your home cur-
rency or zlotys. At times (though this is more rare) its
not even a question the merchant will simply take it
upon himsel f to charge your credit card in your home
currency, no questions asked. Dont fall into the trap of
thinking your credit card company wont charge a foreign
transaction fee i f you opt to be charged in your native
currency; crossing the border is what they care about,
not the currency. And thats just one of the reasons why,
when given the choice, its in the best interest of your
wallet to choose zlotys.
Why? Because the companies that process credi t
card transactions typically tack on fees for converting
the money, and then do so at a lousy exchange rate.
Depending on the size and number of your purchases
while in Poland, the cost can really add up. Visitors will
have to be vigilant and monitor receipts when paying
with a credit card, and should you be charged in a di f-
ferent currency put your foot down. Merchants dont
benefit from those additional fees, only the company
that processes the transaction does. So be firm about
asking to have your purchase refunded and done over
again in zlotys.
Credit card charges
132
SHOPPING
133
SHOPPING
Likus Concept Store C-3, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
16/18, tel. (+48) 22 492 74 02, www.likusconcept-
store.pl. The Likus Concept Stores are one of the leading
designer brand retailers in Poland and Warsaws version is
now housed at the high-end dom mody VITKAC shopping
centre, where it rubs shoulders with labels like Balenciaga and
Alexander McQueen. Which should tell you straight away that
Likus is no slouch when it comes to fashion: the new store is
well stocked with all the Lanvin, Jimmy Choo and Yves Saint
Laurent you could ask for. The decor of washed grey walls and
shelves of old books - and dont miss the antler chandelier
near the dressing rooms - make it look like the most stylish
library on earth. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Moliera 2 B-2, ul. Moliera 2, tel. (+48) 22 827 70 99,
www.moliera2.com. Exclusive two level boutique featuring
collections by Valentino, Salvatore Ferragamo and Ralph Lau-
ren. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Morka + ul. Jana Styki 1 (entrance from ul. Zwycizcw,
Saska Kpa), tel. (+48) 505 82 75 50, www.morkaplus.
blogspot.com. This postage stamp-sized Saska Kepa bou-
tique is filled with the simple styles of local Polish designer
Ewa Morka. Designs cover casual and dress attire, and
accessories like handbags and jewelry are also on display.
Browsing in this mini-boutique will take minutes; its decid-
ing how to spread out your budget to cover all your wants
that takes times. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
Pl. Trzech Krzyy 3/4 (F-4), ul. Hoa 1, tel. (+48) 22
622 14 16, www.plactrzechkrzyzy.com. Label-conscious
shoppers will delight in the mix of designers like Ralph
Lauren, Moncler, Salvatore Ferragamo and TODs that are
spread across mens and womens apparel and accessories.
Displays of pristinely-folded sweaters are immaculate, and
the staff is eager to search for any size - and have an ency-
clopaedic knowledge of which celebrities are sporting which
style. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Tatuum C-4, ul. Bracka 22, tel. (+48) 22 826 70 16,
www.tatuum.com. Polish brand that offers simple yet styl-
ish designs for both sexes. Shoppers will find casual and work
attire as well as accessories like scarves and jewelry. Also
at ul. Zota 59 (A-4, Zote Tarasy), Al. Jana Pawa II 82 (D-1,
Arkadia) and ul. Okopowa 58/72 (D-1, Klif). QOpen 10:00 -
20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
TFH Tymczasowy Butik B-4, ul. Bracka 25, tel. (+48)
509 74 17 89. The nature of pop-up shops means you
never know where and when the citys hottest fashions will
appear. TFH plays up that temporality at its new boutique,
created inside Traffic Club, by using discarded materials
like cardboard boxes and cardboard drums to display its
stock of stylish t-shirts, handbags and hoodies. The wares
of over 20 of Polands young fashion designers can be found
inside, including Rozwadowska Bags, Alicja Saar and Odio
Tees, and the stock includes accessories and large pictorial
books about - - what else? - - fashion. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 11:00 - 20:00.
Tru Trussardi C-4, ul. urawia 2, tel. (+48) 22 621 57
74, www.trussardi.it. The modern Italian-led, urban fashion
range is now present in Poland. Elegant but casual clothing
for men and women designed for the modern day where it is
typical to move from business function to private meeting and
back. Note that hours are subject to change in the new year.
Also at ul. Okopowa 58/72 (D-1, Klif), ul. Wooska 12 (E-7,
Galeria Mokotw) and ul. Ostrobramska 75c (Promenada).
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Food and Sweets
Food-wise Poland has plenty of edible delights that will
tempt (or shock) your friends, from delicious sausages and
preserves to jars of smalec (yep, thats spreadable lard for
your bread). Dine in true Polish style long after youve leapt
the border by bringing home traditional staples or any number
of the hearty sweets that end every Polish meal.
Delikatesy Blikle C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 35, tel. (+48)
22 828 63 25, www.blikle.pl. Aside from homemade
cakes and eclairs Polands most famous confectioner can
boast killer donuts, once enjoyed by a certain Charles de
Gaulle. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sun 11:00 - 14:00.
Krakowski Kredens C-3, ul. Nowy wiat 22, tel.
(+48) 696 49 00 11, http://www.krakowskikredens.
pl. Upmarket Polish delicatessen selling jams, compotes,
hams and cheeses. Also on ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy). Open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 14:00.
Le Chocolat B-4, ul. urawia 26, tel. (+48) 22 745 10
71, www.lechocolat.pl. Weep at the choice that presents
itsel f. Possibly the finest source of chocolate in Warsaw,
with wrapped-up personalized gift packs also for purchase.
Pijalnie Czekolady Wedel B-3, ul. Szpitalna 8, tel.
(+48) 22 827 29 16, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. A Polish
legend thats been operating since Karol Wedel first opened
a chocolate factory in 1851. Check the handmade pralines.
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Bolesawiec Pottery A- 4, ul. Prosta 2/14, tel.
(+48) 22 624 84 08, www.ceramicboleslawiec.
com.pl. Brightly patterned hand-finished ceramics and
tabl eware. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
Bombkarnia F- 3, ul. Emilii Plater 47, tel. (+48)
22 624 16 66, www.bombkarnia.com. Cutesy hand-
painted glass ornaments including baubl es, eggs and
novel ty gi fts. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00.
Cl osed Sun.
Cepelia B-4, ul. Marszakowska 99/101, tel. (+48)
22 628 77 57, www.cepelia.pl. Your first stop for tacky
souveniers. Amongst the tat also find traditional Polish handi-
crafts: table cloths, ceramics, glass etc. Also at ul. Krucza
23 (C-4) and ul. Chmielna 8 (C-3). QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Produkty Benedyktyskie F-2, Al. Jana Pawa II
43a/35, tel. (+48) 22 838 21 02, www.benedicite.pl.
This shop, set up by the Benedictine monks of Tyniec Abbey,
sells such an astounding variety of products - cheese, jam,
wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups, meats - it raises two
eyebrows over how they find the time. All the products are
completely natural, without pigment, and unilaterally excel-
lent and make excellent gifts and can even be purchased
through their (Polish only) website. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Sat Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Sodki Sony G-4, ul. Mokotowska 45, tel. (+48) 22
622 49 34, www.slodkislony.pl. Beautiful looking cakes
and sweets courtesy of the Gessler dynasty. QOpen 10:00
- 24:00, Mon 11:00 - 24:00.
Gifts & Souvenirs
Polish glass and amber are highly thought of, though if you
want something clutz-proof then Polish linen, lace and wood-
work all look lovely on someone elses mantle. Folk art is an
easily recognizable symbol of Poland, as is a magnet of the
countrys favorite hero and saint-in-waiting Pope John Paul II.
For the lads, pick up a Polski football shirt or scarf off any of
the stalls that spring up unannounced around central station.
Artis Galeria Sztuki Uytkowej F-3, ul. Emilii Plater
47, tel. (+48) 22 620 59 30, www.artisgaleria.pl. Folkish
souvenirs including religious icons, angels, dolls, tapestries and
carvings. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Art Manus G-4, ul. Mokotowska 41, tel. (+48) 22 627
21 04. Top quality Polish made linen on a street renowned
for its boutique elegance. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00
- 16:00. Closed Sun.
Non-EU residents are entitled to claim
a VAT refund when the purchased
goods are exported in an unused
condition outside the EU in personal
luggage. Shop wherever you see the
Global Blue logo. The minimum total
purchase value with VAT per Tax Free
Form is 200pln. Keep the Tax Free
Form, have it stamped when leaving
the final point of departure from the EU and reclaim
your money. For full details check www.global-blue.com.
TAX FREE SHOPPING - GLOBAL BLUE
2 STAMP IT
3 REFUND
1 GET IT
Once youve found that perfect item, remember to ask the shop
staff for a Tax Refund Cheque when youre paying for it.
Tax Free Shopping

For more details contact:
Global Blue Polska Sp. z o. o.
Phone: +48 22 500 18 51
e-mail: taxfree.pl@global-blue.com
www.global-blue.com
As a traveler residing in a
non-EU country you are entitled
to claim back the VAT on your
purchases when you bring them
home.
You will find Global Blue Tax
Free Shopping service in the
major shops of Poland.
Spend a minimum of 200PLN,
and save up to 12% of the
purchase price.
When youre leaving the country to head home
or to continue your journey, take your
purchases, receipt and passport to the customs
desk to get your Tax Refund Cheque stamped.
If youre travelling on to another EU country,
get the stamp on your Tax Refund Cheque at
your final point of departure from the EU.
Finally, show your stamped Tax Refund
Cheque and passport to our staff at Global Blue
Customer Services or one of our partner refund
points and theyll issue your refund
immediately.
134
SHOPPING
135
SHOPPING
Arkadi a D- 1, Al .
Jana Pawa II 82, tel.
(+48) 22 323 67 67,
www.arkadia.com.
pl. If you cant find it in
Arkadia, you probably
never will. Covering a
total area of 287 000
m2 Arkadia stands out
as the biggest shopping mall in Central Europe. The five
floor leviathan contains everything you need to survive
Warsaw, so its little wonder we know of people who
spend their lives stalking around its corridors; approxi-
mately 45,000 - 70,000 people visit each day. It took
three years of work to complete, and now houses fashion
stores include Lacoste, Peek & Cloppenburg and Tommy
Hilfiger, as well as ubiquitous high street chains like Zara,
Esprit and Kappahl. A giant Saturn store takes care of
all your electronic needs: from DVDs to sound systems.
Carrefour takes a large chunk of the ground floor, though
most expats are making a beeline for the first Mark &
Spencers food department in the country. If you cant find
what youre after in there then head to Kuchnie wiata.
The shop is tiny but is home to everything from Marmite
and Pirri Pirri sauce to Weetabix, Cadburys Chocolate
and Dr Pepper. English language books are available
from American Bookstore, and foreign press from EM-
PiK. Entertainment comes in the form of a 15 screen
multiplex. Alongside some very decent dining options
is the microbrewery Bierhalle. Serving homemade beer
and plates of sausages, this is exactly the place to leave
the other half where he will be delightfully happy for a few
hours. Connected by 10 tram lines, 15 bus routes and
with space for 4,000 vehicles. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Galeria Mokotw E-7,
ul . Wo oska 12, tel .
(+48) 22 541 41 41,
www.galeriamokotow.
pl. At 150,000m2 Galeria
Mokotw has been eclipsed in size by Arkadia and Blue
City, but remains the mall of choice for a large number
of expats. Clothes wise stores include Calvin Klein,
Lacoste, Versace, Trussardi, Peek & Cloppenburg, as well
as several high street chains like Mango, Deni Cler and
River Island. The entertainment center on the top floor
includes bowling, food court and Cinema City multiplex.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
dom mody VITKAC C-4, ul. Bracka 9, tel. (+48)
22 837 77 58. The giant glowing Gucci sign will be your
first hint that this isnt your typical shopping centre, and
the heavy security is the second. After three years of
construction the new dom mody vitkAc building opened
last fall to satiate Warsaws desire for super high-end
shopping. Labels like Givenchy, Balenciaga, Alexander
McQueen and Yves Saint Laurent are spread over three
levels of shopping space, with roughly three employees
available for every browsing customer and that doesnt
include the burly security guards that are seemingly ev-
erywhere. The atmosphere is more museum than mall,
but if youre looking to splurge on designer names then
this is your headquarters. You can also stop for a drink
at the main floor bar if all the selection wears you out.
Easily the citys most premiere shopping spot. QOpen
11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Shopping malls
Z ote Tarasy A- 4, ul .
Zota 59, tel. (+48) 22 222
22 00, www.zlotetarasy.
pl. Warsaws monstrous train
station now has a new neigh-
bour - the sparkl i ng Zote
Tarasy compl ex. Of fi ci al l y
opened on February 7, 2007
by Warsaw mayor, Hanna
Gronkiewicz Waltz, the first
afternoon alone saw 64,000
people file through the doors.
The 250 million Euro project
includes 225,000m2 of office, retail and entertainment
space, with underground parking for 1,600 cars. Draw-
ing more than million visitors each month the complex
signals a bold shi ft away from the out-of-town malls
found in Warsaw, and familiar stores include Marks &
Spencers, Aldo, Polands first Body Shop, Hugo Boss,
Van Graf clothes store and EMPiK. For leisure, visitors
can not only visit Polands first Hard Rock Caf which
is split over 2 levels, but also a multiplex cinema and
more than 20 restaurants and bars spread over 5 levels,
including a Burger King. Designed by Jerde Partnership
International (whose founder, Jon Adams Jerde, designed
the Olympic Village for LA 1984), the central showpiece is
a 10,000m glass dome, fitted with a special mechanism
to both filter sunrays and to stop snow from building up.
Q Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.
Kl i f D- 1, ul . Okopowa
58/72, tel. (+48) 22 531
45 00, www.kli f.pl. The
nati onwi de Kl i f chai n have
long been present in Warsaw,
though if you think youve seen
it all before then think again.
These chaps have rebranded
and re-launched with October
2008 refit resulting in the addi-
tion of new floors, an updated
design and a thorough facelift.
But as with all shopping centres the proof comes in the
pudding, ie the tenants. Now on show are top tags from
MaxMara to PennyBlack, as well outlets for casual faves
like Paul & Shark. For the juniors watch for Casper and
Mothercare. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Forget Me Not Gift (Misiolandia) C-4, ul. Chmielna
16, tel. (+48) 22 827 39 42, www.forgetmenot.
pl. Loads of gi ft ideas here, from boneware to bags - all
produced with a classical touch. But the true reason for
visiting are the childrens bears; find hundreds of the furry
monsters here, of all shape and every size. Not cheap, but
theyll keep the peace. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00
- 16:00. Closed Sun.
Neptunea B-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie 47/51,
tel. (+48) 22 827 97 05, www.neptunea.pl. A weird little
find selling decorative sea shells, minerals, fossils, silver
jewellery, oriental furniture and exotic crafts. An absolute
treasure, and a must visit if youre looking for a something
a little unique. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.
Rock Shop B- 4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel.
(+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl. You know
a city has made it when it gets a Hard Rock Cafe and is
there anything which says Ive been there more than a
Hard Rock Cafe t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the Warsaw one
to add to your collection at the shop inside the HRC in
the Zote Tarasy development opposite the train station.
Classic t-shirts cost 99z, all others run 105z. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00.
Velt Gallery B-3, ul. Prna 12, tel. (+48) 22 620 32
57, www.velt.pl. Chic looking glassware and lamps on a
street dying for a revival. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Mon 15:00
- 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Markets
Cheapskates rejoice, while the closure of The Russian
Market hit bargain hunters hard Warsaw still has a very
decent spread of bazaars. While rumours of pickpockets are
at times exaggerated, do nonetheless exercise a degree of
vigilance while perusing the swag on show.
Bazar Ryckiego H-1, ul. Targowa 54, tel. (+48) 22
619 44 06, www.bazarrozyckiego.pl. Once regarded as
Warsaws premier bazaar, the rambling Bazaar Ryckiego
has seen its popularity wane since 1989. Black market
trade once thrived under Nazi and communist governments,
but nowadays the historic 102-year-old market is a ghostly
image of its former self, offering a mildly depressing look
into working class Warsaw life. Visitors could easily outfit
an entire polyester wedding thanks to the heaps of vendors
selling cheap wedding dresses, tacky kiddie tuxes and
chintzy mother-of-the-bride gowns. Good for a laugh. QOpen
07:00 - 17:00, Sat 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Koo Bazar D-2, ul. Obozowa 99, tel. (+48) 22 836
23 51. Quality flea market held each weekend from dawn
till dusk. Attracting buyers and sellers from across the
country this is exactly the place if youve ever wanted to
own a Prussian helmet or set of palace doors from India
(yours for 16,000z). What else can you find? Weve spotted
pre-war posters advertising Polish toothpaste, early 19th
century postcards, prewar bathroom fixtures and grandfa-
ther clocks. Vinyl records go for as little as 1z. Youll even find
the occasional celeb looking for something wacky to fill their
top-floor penthouse with. The traders themselves are a set
of curious characters, and watching these veterans at work
is one reason alone to visit. While early morning is the best
time to snap up the rare finds, 1pm on the closing Sunday
is the time to hit to try and get the last minute bargains. The
golden rule is to haggle at all times. Paying the asking price
means overpaying. QOpen 06:00 - 18:00.
A seemingly straightforward concept, while standing in an
orderly line is probably as unconsciously ingrained where
you come from as staying to the right while passing in
a narrow corridor, here in Poland, queuing is a cutthroat
game of cunning and sabotage. It appears that decades of
communist rule, which featured endless necessity-induced
queuing to obtain the most basic goods - and then quite
often only to find that they werent available obliterated
any respect the Poles had for the concept of an organized
line operating under an unwritten but widely-accepted code
of etiquette and common courtesy. Such a queue did not
bring about any reward during the cold war era. Sadly, the
most courteous family was the family without toilet paper
in those days. Rudeness and results began an unholy
marriage and queue barging became a common practice
that endures to this day. Simultaneously, Poles were also
being conditioned into complacency over the poor quality of
services rendered, regarding the resultant queues to be as
unavoidable as sleeping. Even the most modern Pole today
seems to accept that, cumulatively, years of his or her life
will be spent standing in line. As a result of this national
apathy, you can anticipate spending part of your trip to PL
in slow-moving lines as well.
In such situations patience is both a blessing and a curse
as everyone and (especially) their mother will attempt to
oust you in line. Tactics include confusing bursts of Polish
dialogue to the effect of Im late for something, I need
to go before you or more commonly Im older than you,
let me go first. Another well-loved strategy occurs when
someone arrives at the queue, tells you they are in front
of you, then leaves only to appear again just as its about
to be your turn. Should you give any space between you
and the person in front of you (a courteous gesture in
most civilised countries) it will be filled by someone who
either completely ignores the fact that you are there,
or spears you with an umbrella and a glare to ensure
theres no protest. Also, if a person feels their needs
can be easily satisfied its agreed that said person
need not stand in line, but march straight to the window,
interrupt whatever is happening there and expect to be
assisted. Sadly, this practice is upheld by clerks who will
stop fulfilling your request for a ticket on the next train
to Warsaw in order to look up all of tomorrows train
times to Berlin for some jackass who suddenly walks
up wearing a wifebeater and a blazer. Similarly, grocery
clerks, summoned to open a second register when the
line has reached critical mass, will alert the person at
the end of the line who then becomes the next person
serviced and the line then proceeds in reverse order until
reaching an equilibrium.
Further complicating matters is the inconsistency about
which queuing is conducted in Poland. For example, lines
at train station ticket windows are often inexplicably
formed horizontally rather than vertically. Therefore, you
must position yourself diagonally close behind the right
shoulder of the person at the window in order to quickly
cut off potential queue barging points both to the left and
right. Queuing at bank machines, meanwhile, employs
a completely different logic where giving as much room
as possible is the common practice. Therefore, you can
be sure that when approaching a cashpoint on the busy
Rynek, everyone within four metres of the ATM will tell
you they are in line ahead of you despite the fact that
there is no line at all. Anywhere. Taking into account all
of the factors, perhaps the only recourse is indeed a
tenacious complacency.
Not a queue
136
DIRECTORY
137
DIRECTORY
Italy F-2, Pl. Dbrowskiego 6, tel. (+48) 22 826 34 71,
www.ambvarsavia.esteri.it.
Lithuania G-3, Al. Ujazdowskie 14, tel. (+48) 22 625
33 68, pl.mfa.lt.
Netherlands H-4, ul. Kawalerii 10, tel. (+48) 22 559
12 00, www.nlembassy.pl.
Norway G-4, ul. Chopina 2a, tel. (+48) 22 696 40 30,
www.amb-norwegia.pl.
Russia G-5, ul. Belwederska 49, tel. (+48) 22 621 34
53, www.rusemb.pl.
Spain G-4, ul. Myliwiecka 4, tel. (+48) 22 583 40 00.
Sweden G-5, ul. Bagatela 3, tel. (+48) 22 640 89 00,
www.swedenabroad.com/warsaw.
United Kingdom G-4, ul. Kawalerii 12, tel. (+48) 22
311 00 00, www.ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk.
USA G-4, Al. Ujazdowskie 29/31, tel. (+48) 22 504 20
00, poland.usembassy.gov.
International schools
American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202,
Konstancin-Jeziorna, tel. (+48) 22 702 85 00, www.
aswarsaw.org.
Ecole Antoine de Saint- Exupry ul. Nobla 16
(Praga Poudnie), tel. (+48) 22 616 14 99, www.
saint-exupery.pl.
German - Polish School of Meeting and Dialogue
Willy - Brandt - Schule in Warsaw ul. Wandy
Rutkiewicz 2 (Wilanw), tel. (+48) 22 642 27 05, www.
wbs.pl. Also at ul. Kolegiacka 1a (Wilanw).
International American School ul. Dembego 18
(Ursynw), tel. (+48) 22 649 14 40, www.ias.edu.pl.
International European School ul. Wiertnicza
140 (Wilanw), tel. (+48) 22 842 44 48, www.ies-
warsaw.pl.
The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15 (Mokotw),
tel. (+48) 22 842 32 81, www.thebritishschool.pl.
Language schools
Akademia PFF F-2, ul. Krakowskie Przedmiecie
67/11, tel. (+48) 501 29 93 38, www.pff-warsaw.com.
Polish courses for foreigners.
Edu&More B- 4, ul. Marszakowska 87 lok.81, tel.
(+48) 22 622 14 41, www.polishonlinenow.com.
Go from seeing Polish as a pile of consonants to fluency
with the fast and effective tutors at Edu & More, the 2011
Entrepreneurship Leader of the Year winners in the field of
innovations in teaching Polish. Individual and group lessons
are tailor made to your capabilities, learn business Polish to
help with your job and busy students can opt for online les-
sons. Bonus: your initial meeting with a tutor is free of charge.
The Centre for Polish Studies B-3, ul. witokrzyska
20, tel. (+48) 22 826 19 04, www.learnpolish.edu.pl.
Laundry & Dry Cleaning
BLANC LYS Laundry Self Service ul. Ks. Janusza 23
(Wola), tel. (+48) 508 16 28 10, www.blanc-lys.com.
A self-service launderette with on-site wifi to pass the time.
LiLi ul. Surowieckiego 12a (Ursynw), tel. (+48) 22 644
93 77, www.pralniasamoobslugowa.com. 5 washing ma-
chines and 5 dryers available. Washing 14z, drying 10z. They
also offer ironing and a washing by phone service where they
collect clothes from you, wash them and deliver them back.
Places of worship
Gospel Baptist Church ul. Grochowska 324/8
(Praga), tel. (+48) 500 27 09 90, www.gbc-ekb.pl.
24-hour pharmacies
Apteka ul. eromskiego 13 (Bielany), tel. (+48) 22
834 58 04.
Apteka Beata E-2, Al. Solidarnoci 149, tel. (+48)
22 620 08 18.
Business associations
American Chamber of Commerce F-3, Warsaw
Financial Centre, ul. Emilii Plater 53, tel. (+48) 22 520
59 99, www.amcham.pl.
British Polish Chamber of Commerce F-3, ul. No-
wogrodzka 12/3, tel. (+48) 22 622 20 56, www.bpcc.org.pl.
Polish-German Chamber of Commerce B-1, ul.
Miodowa 14, tel. (+48) 22 531 05 00, www.ahk.pl.
Consulates & Embassies
Australia B-4, ul. Nowogrodzka 11, tel. (+48) 22 521
34 44, www.australia.pl.
Austria H-5, ul. Gagarina 34, tel. (+48) 22 841 00 81,
www.ambasadaaustrii.pl.
Canada C-4, ul. Matejki 1/5, tel. (+48) 22 584 31
00, www.canada.pl.
France G-4, ul. Pikna 1, tel. (+48) 22 529 30 00,
www.ambafrance-pl.org.
Germany G-4, ul. Jazdw 12, tel. (+48) 22 584 17 00,
www.warszawa.diplo.de.
Ireland C-4, ul. Mysia 5, tel. (+48) 22 849 66 33, www.
embassyofireland.pl.
Israel F-4, ul. Krzywickiego 24, tel. (+48) 22 597 05
00, www.israel.pl.
Services are held in Polish and English languages: Sun.
11:00 (Sunday School) and Thurs. 18:00. For more informa-
tion contact: Pastor Paul Sock, mob. 500-270-990, e-mail:
paulesock@yahoo.com
St Pauls English Speaking Catholic Parish C-3, ul.
Radna 14, tel. (+48) 600 38 49 16, www.warsawcatho-
lics.pl. English-language mass held each Sunday at 11:30.
Private clinics
Damian Hospital G-3, ul. Foksal 3/5, tel. (+48) 22
566 22 22, www.damian.pl. English-speaking doctors
available at Foksal 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00,
closed Sun. Also available at ul. Wabrzyska 46 (Suew)
07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 -20:00, Sun 08:00 - 16:00; at
Al. KEN 85 (Galeria Metro Bis, Ursynw) 08:00 -20:00, Sat
08:00 - 15:00, closed Sun; at Al. Niepodlegoci 107/109
(F-6) 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00, closed Sun.
LIM Medical Center A-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79
(Marriott Hotel), tel. (+48) 22 33 22 888, www.cmlim.
pl. Also on ul. Domaniewska 41a, ul. 17 Stycznia 49, Al. Jana
Pawa II 78 (E-1), ul. Bobrowiecka 1 (H-6) and ul. Wooska 7.
Real estate
Home One ul. Limanowskiego 11 (Mokotw), tel.
(+48) 22 642 11 11, www.homeone.pl.
Knight Frank C-3, ul. Mokotowska 42, tel. (+48) 22
596 50 50, www.knightfrank.com.pl.
Relocation companies
Move One Relocations F-4, ul. Koszykowa 54, tel.
(+48) 22 630 81 69, www.moveoneinc.com.
PRO Relocation B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/69, tel.
(+48) 22 869 04 40, www.prorelo.com.
Translators & Interpreters
Agencja MAart C-3, ul. Kopernika 3, tel. (+48) 22
480 88 00, www.maart.com.
Awangarda B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 33/11, tel. (+48)
22 629 92 44, www.awangarda.pl.
Komputekst ul. Midzyborska 82 (Praga-Poudnie),
tel. (+48) 22 825 40 50, www.komputekst.pl.
Tappenden Translations tel. (+48) 501 21 00 59,
www.tdtranslations.pl.
Useful Organisations
Alcoholics Anonymous B- 4, ul. Radna 14 flat 3,
www.aa-europe.net. Meetings on Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu
18:30, Fri 20:30 and Sat at 11:00.
American Friends in Warsaw info@afw.waw.pl,
www.afw.waw.pl.
Beit Warszawa Foundation ul. Wiertnicza 113
(Wilanw), tel. (+48) 22 885 26 38, www.beit.org.pl.
International Womens Group of Warsaw www.
iwgwarsaw.eu. Meetings are held twice a month on the
second Monday at the Sofitel between 10:30 and 12:30,
and on the fourth Monday of the month at Tapa y Toro in
Zote Tarasy (A-4, ul. Zota 59) between 10:00 and 11:00.
For more information see www.iwgwarsaw.eu or contact
iwgwarsaw@yahoo.com
Mums & Tots postmaster@mumsandtots.com, www.
sites.google.com/site/mumsandtotsofwarsaw.
SWEA www.swea.org. The association of Swedish and
Swedish-speaking women abroad. Cultural, educational and
recreational activities throughout the year. For more info
contact warszawa@swea.org.
Changing money is increasingly less fretful to do, but
as with most international destinations it is still worth
keeping checking rates particularly at entry points such
as airports or in major tourist areas. We check rates of
a selection of money exchange offices (kantors) every
two months. Here were their buying rates (how many
zloty you would get for one unit of foreign currency) for
the 17.01.12 compared to the following National Bank
of Poland (NBP) published rates for that morning of Euro
1 = 4,3536z, US$1 = 3,4353z, GBP 1 = 5,2634z.
Aurex C-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 33, tel. (+48) 22 626
92 60, www.aurex.biz.
1 Euro = 4.39zl,
1 Dollar = 3.39zl,
1 Pound = 5.20zl,
No commission.
Kantor A-4, Zote Tarasy, ul. Zota 59 (first floor),
tel. (+48) 22 222 12 34.
1 Euro = 4.30zl,
1 Dollar = 3.35zl,
1 Pound = 5.14zl,
No commission.
Pekao SA ul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Warsaw Frederick
Chopin Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 45 34, www.
pekao.com.pl.
1 Euro = 4.08z,
1 Dollar = 3.22z,
1 Pound = 4.88z,
No commission.
Currency exchange
ARK^p]QYSXQYX
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I
t took fve seconds to transform Po-
land from a country bustling with
confdence into one wracked with
grief on a scale not seen since the Second
World War.
At some point on a nondescript Saturday
morning on April 10, the aircraf carrying
the president, his wife and 94 others
clipped a tree with its lef wing as it
approached Smolensk airport in western
Russia. Five seconds later, now devoid of
one wing, it barrel rolled anti-clockwise,
before slamming roof frst into the ground.
As news of the accident broke in Poland,
and one by one television channels
interrupted their regular services, news
readers struggled to contain their emotions
as they realised the devastating blow the
Smolensk disaster had dealt the country.
Along with President Kaczynski, and
Maria his wife, the casualty list read like a
whos who of the Polish elite.
Te head of the national bank, the
chief of the armed forces, the heads of the
navy and air force, two ministers, leading
politicians and dozens of others. Many
household names in Poland; now all dead.
Te irony that the Tupolev Tu-154
crashed at it was carrying a delegation
to mark the 70th-anniversary of the
Katyn massacre, when Stalins henchman
slaughtered Polands best, was not lost.
Te Soviets killed Polish elites in Katyn
70 years ago. Today, the Polish elite died
there while getting ready to pay homage to
the Poles killed there, said Lech Walesa.
Aleksander Kwasniewski, another
former president, described Katyn as a
cursed place, and of horrible symbolism.
As Poles absorbed what Donald Tusk
called the most tragic event in Polands
post-war history thousands began to
make their way to the presidential palace
in central Warsaw, which was to become
the focal point of national mourning.
A small patch of fowers and candles
lef by mourners expanded and grew,
carpeting the pavement and the road in
a tribute to those who had died. Political
diferences vanquished by grief, thousands
upon thousands of people made their way
to the palace to pay their respects in quiet
dignity.
The outpouring of sympathy for the
victims spoke volumes for the shock
and sadness that had touched Poles; it
also spoke volumes for the decency of
Poland.
At noon on Sunday across the nation two
minutes silence was observed in memory
of the people that died in the air crash in
Smolensk. Te silence was then pierced by
the claxons and sirens of local authority
warning systems and police vehicles. To
this mournful orchestra of wails, the Pol-
ish nation stood to attention and refected
on their loss in the forests near Katyn.
Te parents of the pilot in charge of fying
the presidential plane have begged the world
not to blame their son for the crash.
Captain Arkadiusz Protasiuka was the
man responsible for landing the Polish
Air Force Tu-154M safely in Russia on
Saturday 10th April, but, for reason still
unknown, he was unable to successfully
carry out his task.
Te tragic death of the head of the
National Bank of Poland Slawomir
Skrzypek in Saturdays plane crash leaves
questions open about who will replace
him, and how his loss will afect monetary
policy and other issues.
Te succession issue is a major one, since
both the parliament and the president
must make the choice jointly.
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Issue 15 ()
Warsaws Presidential Palace has become the focal point of the nations grief
Boutique
1 - ul. Nowomiejska
2 - ul. Piesza
3 - ul. Fandaminskiego
1
2
3
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144
STREET REGISTER
145
1 Sierpnia D-6/7
29 Listopada H-4
Aleje Ujazdowskie C-4, (G-3/5)
Andersa, gen. A-1/2 (E-1/2)
Anielewicza A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Archiwalna D-5
Armii Ludowej, al. F/H-4
Bagatela G-4/5
Bagno B-3
Banachago D/E-5
Bankowy, pl. A-2 (F-2)
Barbary, w. B-4, (F-3)
Barokowa B-2
Barona D-2
Batorego E/F-5
Bednarska B/C-2
Bellottiego D-2
Belwederska G-5/6
Biaa A-3 (E-2)
Biaobrzeska D-4/5
Bielaska B-2 (F-2)
Bitwy Warszawskiej 1920 r. D-4/5
Bobrowskiego D-5
Boduena B-3
Bohaterw Getta A-2 (E/F-1)
Bohdanowicza D-6
Bole B-1
Boni fraterska A/B-1
Bracka C-4
Browarna C-2/3 (G-2)
Brylowska D-3
Brzeska H-1
Brzozowa B-1
Bugaj B-1/2
Bytnara F-6/7
Canaletta B-2
Celna B-1/2
Chaubiskiego A/B-4 (F-3/4)
Chemska H-6
Chodna A-3 (D/E-2)
Chmielna A-4, B/C-3/4, (E-3, F-3)
Chocimska G-5
Chodkiewicza E-5/6
Chopina G-4
Ciasna B-1
Ciepa A-3 (E-2)
Cicha C-3
Corazziego B-2
Czackiego B-3 (F-2)
Czerniakowska G/H-3
Czerska H-5/6
Czeska H-2
Dbrowskiego, pl. B-3 (F/G-6)
Dawna B-1/2
Defilad, pl. B-4 (F-3)
Dickensa D-5
Duga A/B-1/2 (F-1)
Dugosza D-2
Dobra C-2/3 (G-1/2)
Dobrzaskiego A-3
Dolna G-6
Drewniana C-3
Dubois A-1 (E-1)
Dzielna A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Dzika D/E-1
Elektoralna A-2/3 (E-2)
Emilii Plater A/B-3/4 (F-3)
Esperanto E-1/2
Etiudy Rewolucyjnej E-7
Filtrowa E-4
Floriaska G-1
Foksal C-3 (G-3)
Franciszkaska A/B-1
Francuska H-2
Frascati C-4
Fredry B-2 (F-2)
Freta B-1 (F-1)
Furmaska C-2 (F/G-2)
Gagarina G-5
Gaczyskiego C-3
Gamerskiego B-2
Geodetw D-5
Gsta C-2
Gibalskiego D-2
Grnolska H-3
Grska H-5/6
Grskiego B/C-3
Goszczyskiego F/G-6
Goworka G-5
Graniczna B-3
Grodzka C-2
Grjecka D/E-4/6
Grzybowska A-3 (E/F-2/3)
Grzybowski, pl. A/B-3
Grzymay D-4
Hoa B/C-4 (F/G-3)
Hynka D-7
Idzikowskiego G/H-6/7
Inflancka A-1
Iwicka H-5
Jaktorowska D-3
Jana Pawa II, al.
A-2/4, (D/E-1/3)
Jana Sobieskiego G/H-5/6
Jasielska D-6
Jasna B-3, (F-2/3)
Jazdw G-4
Jerozolimskie, Al.
A/C-3/4, (D/G-2/4)
Joliot-Curie F-7
Kacza D-2
Kaliska D-4
Kanonia B-2
Kapitulna B-2
Karasia C-3
Karmelicka A-2 (E-1/2)
Karolkowa D-2/3
Karowa C-2 (F/G-2)
Kasprzaka D-3
Kazimierzowska F-5
Kpna H-1
Kiliskiego B-1/2
Klonowa G-5
Kopotowskiego G-1
Kolberga F-7
Kolejowa D/E-3/4
Konduktorska G-6
Konopnickiej C-4
Konstytucji, pl. F-4
Konwiktorska A/B-1
Kopernika C-3
Kopiska D-4
Korotyskiego D-6
Kocielna B-1 (E/F-1)
Koszykowa E/G-4
Kotlarska D/E-2/3
Kozia B-2
Kola B-1 (F-1)
Krakowskie Przedmiecie
B/C-2/3, (F-2)
Krasickiego F/G-7
Krasiskich, pl. B-2 (F-1)
Krasnocka H-5
Kredytowa B-3 (F-2)
Krochmalna A-3 (E-2)
Krlewska B-3 (F-2)
Krucza C-4 (F/G-3)
Kruczkowskiego C-3 (G-2)
Krywulta C-3
Krzywe Koo B-1
Krzywickiego E-4
Ksica C-4 (G-3)
Kubusia Puchatka C-3
Kusociskiego G/H-4
Kwiatowa F-5
Ldowa G-5
Lenartowicza F/G-6/7
Lennona G-4
Leszczyska C-3
Leszno D-2
Leszowa E/F-4/5
Lewartowskiego A-1/2 (E-1)
Lindleya A-4 (E-3/4)
Lipowa C-2
Litewska G-4
Lubelska H-1
Ludna G/H-3
Ludowa G-6
Lwowska F-4
azienkowska H-4
ucka A-3 (E-3)
Madaliskiego F/G-5/6
Majewskiego D-5
Maachowskiego, pl. B-3
Malczewskiego F/G-6
Mariaska A-3
Mariensztat C-2
Markowska H-1
Marszakowska B-2/4 (F-2/4)
Matejki C-4
Mazowiecka B-3 (F-2)
Miczyska E-6/7
Miedziana A-4 (E-3)
Mia A-1 (D/E-1)
Miobdzka E-6
Miodowa B-2 (F-1)
Mireckiego D-2
Mirowski, pl. A-3 (E-2)
Mynarska D-2
Mokotowska C-4 (G-3/4)
Modawska D-6
Moliera B-2 (F-2)
Moniuszki B-3
Mostowa B-1 (F-1)
Muranowska A-1 (E-1)
Mysia C-4
Myliwiecka G/H-4
Na Rozdrou, pl. G-4
Na Skarpie, al. G-3
Nabielaka G-5
Nalewki A-1/2
Narbutta F/G-5
Narutowicza, pl. D-4
Nehru H-5
Niecaa B-2, (F-2)
Niemcewicza D/E-4
Niepodlegoci, al. F/G-4
Niska A-1, (D/E-1)
Niska D/E-1
Niyskiego Pasa B-3
Nowiniarska B-1
Nowogrodzka A/C-4 (E/F-3)
Nowolipie A-2 (E-2)
Nowolipki A-2 (D/E-1/2)
Nowowiejska E/G-4
Nowy wiat C-3/4 (G-2/3)
Obona C-3
Obozowa D-2
Oczki E/F-3/4
Odolaska F/G-6
Odyca F/G-6
Ogrodowa A-3 (E-2)
Oklnik C-3
Okopowa 1/2-D
Okrg G/H-3
Okrzei G-1
Oleandrw F/G-4
Olimpijska E-6
Olkuska G-6
Olszewska G-5
Olszowa G-1
Ondraszka E-4/5
Opolski, pl. D-2
Ordynacka C-3 (G-2)
Orla A-2/3 (E-2)
Orowicza G-3
Ossoliskich B-2
Padewska G-6
Panieska G-1
Paska A-3/4 (E-3)
Parkowa G-5
Pasteura D-4/5
Paszyna D-1
Pawia A-2 (D/E-2, E-1)
Pawiskiego D-5/6
Pereca A-3 (E-3)
Piaseczyska G-6
Piekarska B-2
Pikna F/G-4
Pisudskiego, marsz. pl. B-3 (F-2)
Piwarskiego G/H-6
Piwna B-2
Patowcowa E-6
Platynowa E-3
Podchorych G/H-5
Podwale B-1/2 (F-1)
Pokorna A-1
Polna F/G-4
Poniatowskiego, ks. Al. H-2
Powzkowska D-1
Powstacw Warszawy, pl. B-3
Poznaska B-4 (F-3)
Promenada G-5/6
Prosta A-4 (D/E-3)
Prna B-3
Prusa C-4
Pruszkowska D-6
Przechodnia A-2/3
Przemyska D-5
Przyokopowa D-3
Przyrynek B-1
Ptasia A/B-3 (F-2)
Puawska G-5/7
Puku Baszta F-7
Pytlasiskiego G-6
Racawicka D/E-6
Radna C-3
Rajcw B-1
Rakowiecka E/G-5
Raszyska E-4
Rejtana G-5
Rokitnicka E-5
Rostafiskich E-5
R, al. G-4
Rana F/G-5/6
Rozbrat G-3
Rycerska B-2
Rynek Nowego Miasta B-1 (F-1)
Rynek Starego Miasta B-1/2
Rysia B-3
Sandomierska G-5
Sanguszki B-1
Sanocka D-5/6
Sapieyska A/B-1
Sasanki D-7
Senatorska B-2 (F-1/2)
Schillera B-2 (F-1)
Siedmiogrodzka D-3
Sielecka H-5/6
Siemieskiego D-5
Sienkiewicza B-3
Sienna A-4 (E-3)
Skaryszewska H-1
Skaryskiego D-5
Skierniewicka D-3
Skorochd D-5/6
Sawiska D-3/4
Soneczna G-5
Supecka D-4
Smocza D/E-1/2
Smolna C-3/4
Sokola G/H-1/2
Solec G/H-2/3
Solidarnoci, al.
A/C-1/3, (D/G-1/2)
Sosnowa A-4
Spacerowa G-5
Spartaska E-7
Spiska D/E-4
Srebrna F-3
Stara B-1
Starociska F/G-5
Starynkiewicza, pl. E-3
Staszica D-2
Stawki A-1 (D/E-1)
Stefana Batorego E/F-5
Stpiska H-5/6
Sulkiewicza G-5
Szara G-3
Szarych Szeregw D-3
Szczliwicka D-4
Szczygla C-3
Szkolna B-3
Szpitalna B-3/4
Szucha, al. G-4
Szwoleerw H-4
liska A-4
witojaska B-2
witojerska A/B-1/2 (E/F-1)
witokrzyska B/C-3 (E/G-2/3)
Tagorea F-6
Tamka C-3 (G-2)
Targowa G/H-1
Teatralny, pl. B-2 (F-2)
Tomackie A/B-2
Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza
B-2/3
Topiel C-3
Towarowa D/E-2/3
Traugutta B/C-3
Trbacka B-2
Trojdena, ks. D/E-5
Trzech Krzyy, pl. C-4 (G-3)
Tuwima C-3
Twarda A-3/4 (E-3)
Tyniecka G-6/7
Unii Lubelskiej, pl. G-4/5
Ursynowska F/G-6
Wa Miedzeszyski H-2/3
Walecznych H-2
Walicw A-3 (E-2/3)
Waowa A-1/2 (E-1)
Warecka B/C-3 (F-2)
Waryskiego F/G-4/5
Wski Dunaj B-2
Wawelska D/F-4
Widok B-4
Wiecha Pasa B-3/4
Wiejska C-4 (G-3)
Wierzbowa B-2 (F-2)
Wiktorska F/G-6
Wilanowska H-3
Wilcza B/C-4 (F/G-3/4)
Wileski pl. G-1
Willowa G-5
Winnicka D-5
Wiolarska H-3
Wilana C-2
Wilicka D-5/6
Winiowa F/G-5, F/G-6
Witosa, al. H-6/7
Wodna B-1
Wjtowska B-1
Wolno D-2
Wooska E/F-6/7
Wolska D-3
Woronicza E/G-7
Wronia E-2/3
Wsplna A/C-4 (F-3)
Wybrzee Gdaskie
B/C-1/2, (F-1)
Wybrzee Helskie C-1 (G-1)
Wybrzee Kociuszkowskie
C-2, (G-1/2)
Wybrzee Szczeciskie
C-1/2, (G-1/2)
Zbkowska H-1
Zajcza C-3 (G-2)
Zakroczymska B-1
Zamenhofa A-1/2 (E-1)
Zamkowy, pl. B-2 (F-1)
Zamoyskiego H-1
Zapiecek B-2
Zawiszy, pl. E-3
Zbawiciela, pl. F-4
Zbierska G/H-5/6
Zgoda B-3/4
Zieleniecka, al. H-1/2
Zielna B-3
Zimna A-3
Zota B-3, A/B-4 (E/F-3)
Zoli G-4
Zwycizcw H-3
elazna A-3/4 (E-2/3)
elaznej Bramy, pl. A/B-3 (F-2)
urawia B/C-4 (F/G-3)
wirki i Wigury D/E-4/7
ytnia D-2
Airport Hotel Okcie 36
Apartamenty Dobranoc 35
Belwederski 32
BEST WESTERN Hotel Felix 34
BEST WESTERN Hotel Portos 34
Boutique Bed & Breakfast 32
Camera 36
Campanile 33
Castle Inn 33
Courtyard by Marriott Warsaw
Airport 36
Czarny Kot My Warsaw
Residence 33
Dom Literatury 33
Emma 36
Etap Warszawa Centrum 34
Golden Tulip Warsaw Centre 33
Gromada - Dom Chopa 33
Harenda 33
Hetman 33
Hilton Warsaw Hotel & Convention
Centre 30
Hit 34
Holiday Inn Warszawa 30
Hostel Suewiec 36
Hostel To-Tu 36
Hostel UFO 36
Hyatt Regency Warsaw 30
Chmielna St. B&B 33
Ibis Ostrobramska 33
Ibis Stare Miasto 33
Ibis Warszawa Centrum 33
InterContinental 30, 35
Kanonia 36
Krokodyl 37
Le Mridien Bristol 30
Lord 33
Mamaison Hotel Le Regina
Warsaw 31
Mamaison Residence Diana
Warsaw 35
Maria 33
Marriott 31
Mazowiecki 34
MDM 34
Mercure Grand 32
Metropol 34
Moon 37
Nathan's Villa 37
New World St. Hostel 37
Noclegi Okcie - Magnolia 34
Novotel Warszawa Airport 36
Novotel Warszawa Centrum 31
Oki Doki 37
P&O Apartments 35
Partner 34
Polonia Palace Hotel 31
Premiere Classe 35
Puawska Residence 34
Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel 31
Radisson Blu Sobieski Hotel 32
Residence 1898 36
Residence St. Andrew's Palace 36
Reytan 34
Rialto 32
Senator Warsaw 36
Sheraton Warsaw 32
Sleepwell Apartments 34
Sofitel Warsaw Victoria 32
Start Hotel Aramis 35
Start Hotel Atos 35
The Westin 32
12 stolikw 46
77 Sushi 55
99 Restaurant & Bar 46, 50
Adler 44
Akademia Smaku 46
Amadera 46, 50
Amber Room 60
Annapurna 44
Atelier Amaro 60
Babalu 42
Babooshka 68
Bagno Food & Wine 46
Banja Luka 40
Bar Gruziski Argo 43
Bar Mleczny Familijny 58
Bar Salad Story 54
Bar Warszawa 38
Bazyliszek 60
Bellini 53
Belvedere 40, 60
Besuto 56
Bezgraniczna 47
Biaa G 60
Biay Domek 61
Bierhalle 47
Biosfeera 71
Bistro de Paris 41
Bistro Pita wiartka 61
Blue Cactus 68
Bollywood Lounge 44
Bombaj Masala 45
Borpince 44
Brasserie 47
Browar de Brasil 40
BrowArmia 47
Burger King 54
Butchery & Wine 44
C.K. Obera 43
Caf 6/12 42, 50
Caf Zamek 61
Casa To Tu 68
Ceprownia 61
Cesarski Paac 41
Cesarski Paac (Tsinghis Chan) 59
Ciao! pizza & pasta 54
Cuatro Caminos Tapas Bar 68
Deco Kredens 47
DeCoteria 47
Dekanta 62
Delicja Polska 62
Delikatesy Esencja 48
Delizia 54
Dom Polski 40, 62
Downtown Restaurant &
Steakhouse 44
Dyspensa 62
Dziki Ry 70
El Greco 44
El Popo 69
El Toro Steak House 44
Etno 48
Fenicja 58
Feta na Freta 62
Five 48
Flow 48
Folk Gospoda 62
Fresh&chilli 58
Frida 69
Fusion 43
Galeria Bali & Buddha Club 45
Galeria Freta 48
Ganesh 45
Gar 54
Gastronomia Rozrywkowa 48
Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie 64
Grand Kredens 49
Green Bar 71
Green Patio 42
Green Peas Eco bar & coffee 42
Gwiazdeczka Jazz Zone 49
Halka restauracja po polsku 64
Hard Rock Cafe 38, 50
Hilton's Meza 40
Honoratka 64
Hotel Marriott's Lilla Weneda 40
Hyatt Hotel's Venti Tre 40
Champions Sports Bar &
Restaurant 38
Charlotte chleb i wino 42
China Garden 41
Chopskie Jado 61
Intercontinental's Downtown
Restaurant & Steakhouse 40
Izumi Sushi 56
Jimmy Bradley's 50
Joseph's Wine & Food 49
Kamanda Lwowska 71
Kaprys 64
Karmnik 64
KFC 54
Kiku Japanese Dining Gallery 56
Klubokawiarnia Resort 42
La Cantina 59
La Fiesta Tortilla Restaurant 69
La MaMa 38
La Rotisserie 42
La Tomatina 54
L'Arc Varsovie 42
Le Cedre 58
Legends British Bar &Restaurant 40
Leniwa Gospodyni 58
Lokanta 70
Maharaja Thai 70
Maho 70
Maa Gruzja 44
Marconi 49
McDonald's 50, 54
Meza 49
MG Eat Magda Gessler 54
Mleczarnia Jerozolimska 58
Mokotowska 22 50
Na Zielnej 50
Nam Sajgon 71
Natara 70
Obera Pod Czerwonym
Wieprzem 64
Osteria 68
OTO!SUSHI 56
Papaya 43
Paros 59
Pikna Bistro 50
Pierrogeria 65
Pizza Hut 54
Platter by Karol Okrasa 65
Podwale - Kompania Piwna 50
Podwale 5 65
Poezja 50
Polka, Magda Gessler po prostu 65
Portucale 67
Prosta Historia 50
Przy Zamku 65
Quick Steak & Music 44
Radio Caf 66
Restauracja & Pub Zmysy 66
Restauracja Concept 51
Restauracja Kultura 51
Restauracja Rana 66
Restauracja Wilanw 51
Restaurant @Ferdy's 51
Restro 51
Rewers 52
Roma 54
Roma Bukieteria 54
Room Service 54
Royal Menu 54
Rozpusta Restauracja Polska 66
Saffron Spices 45
Saint Jacques 42
Samira 59
Sense 43
Sheesha Lounge 45
Sheraton 40
Sioux 38
Skwer - filia Centrum
Artystycznego Fabryka Trzciny 52
Sony 66
smaczneGO! 71
Sofa Restaurant&Bar 52
SomePlace Else 40
St. Traffo 52
Stacja Rynek 52
Subway 54
Sushi Teatr 56
Sushi To 56
Sushi Zushi 58
Tamka 43 52
The Mexican 69
The Olive 53
The Oriental 41
The Westin's Fusion 40
Theatro 43
ToBaYa 70
Tomo Sushi 58
Top Fish 68
Trattoria Rucola 55
Trylogia 53
LISTINGS INDEX
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G No smoking
K Restaurant X Smoking room available
D Sauna C Swimming pool
E Live music W Wi-Fi
6 Animal friendl y S Take away
I Fireplace J Old Town location
Y Tourist Card accepted V Home delivery
Symbol Key
WHERE TO STAY RESTAURANTS
146
LISTINGS INDEX
U Barssa 67
U Fukiera 67
U Chopa 67
U Kucharzy 67
U Szwejka 41
Venezia Ristorante 55
Venti Tre 55
Villa Foksal 53
Vinoteka La Bodega 53
Warsaw Tortilla Factory 69
You & Me 50, 53
Yummy 40
Zapiecek 67
Zen Jazz Zone 58
Zielona Oliwka 55
Ale Gloria 73
Batida 72
Blikle Caf 72
Caf au Lait 72
Cafe Prna 72
Caf Vincent 72
Caffee Galeria Sztuki 72
Cava 72
Coffee Karma 72
Coffeeheaven 72
Colombia coffee, lunch & cocktail
bar 72
Costa Coffee 72
Czaji & Beluga 73
Embassy 73
Chodna 25 72
Kawiarnia Funky 72
Keks 73
La Vanille 73
Leniviec 73
Lobby Bar 73
Magiel Caf 73
Ministerstwo Kawy 74
MiTo art.cafe.books 74
Mount Blanc Pijalnia Czekolady i
Kawy 75
My'O'My 74
Opasy Tom PIW 74
Osir Cafe 74
Pachncy Dom Same Fusy 74
Pijalnia Czekolady Wedel 75
Saint Honor 74
SensNonsensu 74
Sklep z Kanapkami 74
Sodki Sony 74
Specjay Regionalne 74
Starbucks Coffee 74
Szpilka 75
Tel-Aviv Cafe + Deli 75
To Lubi 75
Tree Some Coffee 75
Wawel 75
Wrzenie wiata 75
Zielnik 75
+ One Bar 76
1500m2 do wynajcia 84
Bank Club 84
Bar Tektura 76
Bar Warszawa 87
Beirut Hummus & Music Bar 76
Bierhalle 76, 84
Bojangles Bar & Lounge 76
Bollywood Lounge 84
BrowArmia 84
Cafe Bar Lemon 76
Cafe Kulturalna 76
Caf Szparka 77
Club Capitol 84
Club Mirage 84
Column Bar 77
Confashion Sport Bar 77
Coyote Bar & Night Club 89
de lite club 85
Dekada 85
Dobranocka 85
Enklawa 85
Fabryka Trzciny 85
Fantom 86
Fenicja 87
Gniazdo Piratw 77
Gwiazdeczka Jazz Zone 84
Hard Rock Cafe 77
Hunters Club 85
Hutawka Club 78
Hydrozagadka 78
Champions Sports Bar &
Restaurant 77
JP's Bar 78
Jung & Lecker 80
Karmnik 78
Klaps 78
Klub Karmel 85
Klub Savoy Hotel 86
Klubokawiarnia Chwila 78
Kokomo 89
Kwadrat 79
La Casa Del Habano 79
Legends British Bar & Restaurant
79, 80
Lemon Club 86
Lokal Uytkowy 79
Lorelei 79
Luztro 86
Maska 79
Meta 87
Metro Jazz Bar & Bistro 84
Mono Bar 86
New Orleans Gentlemen's Club 89
Nowy Wspaniay wiat 80
Opera 86
Opium 80
Palladium 86
Panorama Bar & Lounge 80
Paparazzi 80
Pikna Bistro 84
Piwiarnia Warka 80
Plan B 80
Platinium Club 87
Pod Baryk 81
Polyester Caf 81
Powikszenie 87
Pub Przejcie 81
Queer 86
Rabarbar 81
Rich &Pretty Club &Cocktail Bar 87
Saturator 81
Sense 82
Sheesha Lounge 82
Sketch 82
Skwer - filia Centrum
Artystycznego Fabryka Trzciny 82
Sofia 89
SomePlace Else 80, 82
Space Club 87
The Eve Music Club 87
The Pictures art bar cafe 82
Tygmont 84
Underground Music Cafe 87
Vegas Gentlemen's Club 89
Vinoteka 13 & WINE BAR 80
Vintage Bistro i Winoteka 80
W Oparach Absurdu 83
Warsaw Tortilla Factory 80, 83
Warszawa Powile 83
Zaktek 83
Zielona G 83
Znajomi Znajomych 83
A New Kind of Loo 48
Ask your Concierge 32
Breakfast 50
Cemeteries 103
Copernicus Science Centre 12
Credit Card Charges 131
Currency exchange 136
Disaster at Smolensk 78
Eating at a glance 38
EURO2012 8
Fast Food and Delivery 54
Fotoplastikon 58
Gay Warsaw 86
Gestapo HQ 100
Have Your Say 41
Healthy Eating 42
Hot Beer 77
Chocolate Lounges 75
I Can Still See Their Faces 66
Jan III Sobieski 120
Kociuszko Monument 98
Krakowskie Przedmiecie 1 96
Krakowskie Przedmiecie 2 97
Language Smarts 21
Late Night Eats 87
Lodgings at a glance 30
Mail & Phones 20
Microbreweries 84
Milk Bars 58
National Anthem 62
National Holidays 21
Nightlife at a Glance 76
Not a queue 135
Paczki 69
Palmiry 104
Parks 102
Pawiak Prison 105
Polish Alcohol 70
Polish Food 64
Polish Friends of Beer Party 43
Presidential Palace 101
Quick Currency Convertor 21
Ronald Reagan Monument 106
Royal Castle 105
Secret Garden 87
Shopping at a Glance 130
Sport on TV 80
Stanislaw Poniatowski 99
Steak 44
Sunday Brunch 40
Syrenka 65
Temple of Divine Providence 60
The Citadel 100
The Drowning of Marzanna 71
The Incomes House 73
The Korczak Orphanage 52
Three useful Warsaw tips 14
Vice Advice 88
Warsaw Central Station 18
Warsaw Historical Timeline 91
What the locals like 56
Wine 80
Zlota 44 79
Features index
CAFS
NIGHTLIFE
11 Francuska St., Warsaw
Ph. 22 616 24 32, 22 616 24 88
www.restauracjadompolski.pl
Monday to Friday 12:00-16:00,
Dom Polski invites all guests to a special
lunch menu in price 55 pln per person
EVERY SUNDAY,
WE INVITE YOU TO OUR BRUNCH!
From 13:00 to 16:30, it's only
89 pln per person

War Saw

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