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GLAMOROUS. TRADITIONAL. UNIQUE. INNOVATIVE. LOCAL. VARIED. WHAT IS THE BEST ADJECTIVE TO DESCRIBE BRESCIAS LOCAL PRODUCTS? PERHAPS THERE IS NO CORRECT WORD, OR PERHAPS EVERY WORD COULD BE USED TO REPRESENT THIS LAND WITH A THOUSAND DIFFERENT GEOGRAPHICAL FACETS (LAKES, MOUNTAINS, HILLS, PLAINS) WHICH ARE ALSO REFLECTED IN LOCAL PRODUCTS AND CUISINE. IT COMES AS NO SURPRISE THAT THE RESTAURANTS OF BRESCIA ARE ALWAYS HIGHLY PRAISED IN GASTRONOMY GUIDES AND MAGAZINES. ITS EASY TO EXPLAIN: THE RAW MATERIALS ARE CAREFULLY CHOSEN AND THE DISHES PRODUCED ARE ALWAYS UNIQUE AND NEVER BORING. BRESCIAN CUISINE OFFERS AN INFINITE VARIETY OF CHEESES, EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL, JAMS, MEAT AND FISH, EACH OF WHICH IS ASSOCIATE WITH A SPECIFIC LOCAL AREA. FISH COMES FROM LAKES GARDA, ISEO AND IDRO; MEAT IS REARED ON THE PLAINS; GAME AND CHEESES ARE TYPICAL OF THE MOUNTAIN ZONES. THE WINES DESERVE THEIR OWN SPECIAL CHAPTER. BRESCIA PRODUCES EXCEPTIONAL WINES
SUCH AS FRANCIACORTA, (ONE OF ITALYS MOST IMPORTANT SPARKLING WINES), GARDA CLASSICO AND SO MANY OTHERS OF RECOGNISED HIGH QUALITY. THESE ARE ENOUGH REASONS TO ENJOY A TASTY STAY IN BRESCIA. SOME ADVICE FOR EXPLORING THIS BEAUTIFUL REGION? ENJOY MAKING NEW DISCOVERIES; TRAVEL BETWEEN HILLS AND VINEYARDS, MAYBE EVEN IN A CLASSIC CAR TO RELIVE THE SENSATIONS OF THE MILLE MIGLIA RACE; VISIT WINERIES TO TASTE THE MOST INTERESTING WINES, FOLLOWING FRIENDLY AND EXPERT SUGGESTIONS FROM THE PRODUCER; LOOK OUT FOR LOCAL PRODUCTS IN MOUNTAIN FARMS (MALGHE) AND LITTLE VILLAGES; ENJOY INDIVIDUAL ATTENTION IN A GENUINE AND TRADITIONAL TRATTORIA OR TREAT YOURSELF TO FINE DINING IN ONE OF THE MANY PRESTIGIOUS RESTAURANTS WHICH HAVE MADE BRESCIAN CUISINE FAMOUS THROUGHOUT ITALY. SIMPLE GESTURES AND ANCIENT RITUALS WHICH ARE PART OF THE PLEASURE OF A HOLIDAY IN BRESCIA.
Table of Contents
Wine from page 2 Cheese from page 10 Oil from page 16 Fish from page 18 Truffles Meat Chestnut Monococco flour Principal events
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It takes longer to produce vintage Franciacorta. Franciacorta: at least 18 months; Franciacorta Satn and Ros non vintage: at least 24 months; Franciacorta, Satn and Ros vintage: at least 30 months. Even more patience is required to enjoy a Franciacorta Reserve, which is only ready for sale after 60 months of rest in contact with yeast. A long time, but worth the wait. From harvest to your table The harvest is wholly manual. Bunches of grapes are transported to the winery, where each variety is vinified separately. After squeezing the grapes, the cuve is produced in spring time, mixing the basic Franciacorta wines, even from different years, in order to determine the features that each producer will give to their own Franciacorta. Slow, natural fermentation in the bottle begins in the winery and, during these months, the wine takes on its own aromatic complexity. Finally, the bottles are closed with the classic mushroom-shaped cork and the mark of the Franciacorta Consortium is applied. Franciacorta is the worlds strictest method of producing wine through the process of fermentation in the bottle. A winery visit can form part of a relaxing vacation, a parenthesis far from the stress of daily life, together with a visit to the calm shores of Lake Iseo. Ride a bicycle and take in the atmosphere of Franciacorta as you pedal through the countryside, taking time to visit a monastery or a castle, a winery or an olive oil producer, taking a break in a trattoria to taste some of the typical local dishes of the Brescian culinary tradition. Then enjoy a soothing stay in one of the local hotels, offering spas and restaurants which are renowned for the art of gastronomy. www.stradadelfranciacorta.it
the bottle: Cava, Champagne and, of course, Franciacorta. The historical wineries have become modern temple of oenological technology, producing the various types of Franciacorta (Vintage, Ros, Satn, Reserve), as well as the still wines, Curtefranca doc white and red and Sebino Igt.
Franciacorta DOCG is produced with Chardonnay and/or Pinot nero grapes; Pinot bianco can also be used up to 50%.
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The following wines belong to the family of the Valtnesi and Garda Classico denomination of origin: Chiaretto, Garda Classico Rosso e Rosso Superiore, Groppello Riserva, Garda Classico Bianco. Thousands of years of history of the lake and its wines The terroir producing the Garda Classico doc wines is located on the Brescian coast of Lake Garda, from Desenzano to Limone. The heart of production is in Valtenesi, a hilly area from the outskirts of Desenzano to San Felice del Benaco with an historical vocation for wine production. The microclimate here is regulated by the waters of the lake and is well ventilated and particularly mild, ideal conditions for the growth of grapes, as well as olives as citrus fruits. Wine tourism itineraries: visits to wineries, art exhibits and happy hours; dinners in agriturismo farms; shopping for wine, olive pat, olive oil, cured meats and cheeses; travel by car or on horseback along the itineraries proposed by the Wine Route (Strada del Vino) and Garda Flavours (Sapori del Garda). www.stradadeivini.it
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Lugana:
Brescian wine denominations DOCG Franciacorta DOC Botticino Capriano del Colle Cellatica Curtefranca Garda Classico Riviera del Garda Bresciano Lugana San Martino della Battaglia Valtnesi IGT Valcamonica Sebino Ronchi di Brescia Montenetto di Brescia Benaco Bresciano www.entevinibresciani.it
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The Castle varieties The grapes grown in the Brescia vineyard are varieties which have now almost disappeared, but once they were quite widespread in the local area. The grapes are Invernenga, Maiolina, Corva, Uccellina, Brugnera and la Schiava. To give an idea of the historical value of this production, some of the bottles of Pusterla wine are sold in the Brescia museum with the Santa Giulia label.
the tourist to discover the ancient tradition of the quarries. The vineyards along the sunny slopes give character to the countryside and safeguard the excellent heritage of tradition and culture associated with Botticino wine, a full bodies red wine with a strong structure. The warm climate and favourable exposure to the sun make the area ideal of a highly structured red, ideal for average ageing and best served with flavourful dishes such as game and roasts. Monte Nero is a plateau made from clay and chalky terrain, to the south of Brescia, in the towns of Capriano del Colle, Poncarale and Flero. Due to the particular soil and the excellent exposition to the sun, the wines from this area are extremely pleasant and go well with everything, such as Capriano del Colle White and Superior White, Red and the Red Reserve and the Red Marzemino (a local variety), ideal served with roasts, flavourful red meat and the typical Brescian spit roast.
Botticino is obtained from a delicate mixture of Barbera, Marzemino, Sangiovese and Schiava Gentile. Each of these varieties contributes with its specific properties: Barbera is ideal for aging; Marzemino gives colour and body; Sangiovese aromatic elegance and soft taste and Schiava adds freshness. The best Botticino can become a Reserve if it is aged, even in wooden barriques, for at least two years.
The Colli dei Longobardi Wine Route takes its name from the fact that the development of wine growing on the hills around Brescia dates back to the Lombard era in the Middle Ages. One of the most important architectural monuments from this period is the Santa Giulia monastery, which has just been declared a Unesco World Heritage Site. The Wine Route promotes the local area and its natural, historical and cultural attractions, as well as the local food production activities and locally produced hand crafted products. www.stradadelvinocollideilongobardi.it
The Colli dei Longobardi Wine Route symbol is a rooster wind segnavento. The sculpture was commissioned by Bishop Ramperto from a local artist to be installed on the bell tower of the church of San Faustino in Brescia. It dates to the years 820 830 and is kept in the Lombard section of the Santa Giulia museum.
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When? Grana Padano is the basic ingredient for a variety of classic recipes of the Italian culinary tradition. Pasta, risotto, heaty soups, appetisers : Grana Padano is the ideal finishing touch for various dishes, adding something special or making a recipe stand out. www.granapadano.it
GRANA PADANO
From the smallest food market to the largest supermarket, it is easy to find Grana Padano, of various types and qualities (Grana Padano DOP Reserve has been aged more than 20 months). Given its excellent organoleptic qualities, Grana Padano is used in a wide variety of dishes, both grated and sliced, due to its flavour which is always rich and full, never aggressive. The choice of gourmets Grana Padano is a hard chees, cured and slowly matured, thereby maintaining the nutritional principles of milk and taking on a distinct flavour, sweet and savoury at the same time. This special cheese was invented over one thousand years ago by Benedictine monks. As they reclaimed the swamps of northern Italy, they encouraged raising of cattle and soon there was much more milk produced than could be consumed by the population. The monks decided to create a special cheese method in order to conserve the excess milk produced. Grana Padano has become one of the most prestigious Italian cheeses and has graced the tables of royalty and aristocrats. It is produced throughout the Po Valley and there are numerous cheese production centres in and around Brescia which (using a method of rigorous timing, controls and high quality ingredients) transform the milk into a prestigious ingredient.
Identify card Grana Padano is a hard cheese, make from raw cows milk taken from two daily milkings, then left to repose before partial creaming. It is produced throughout the year. The basic ingredients are milk, salt and rennet. The final product is cylindrical, with a diameter from 35 to 45 cm and a height from 18 to 25 cm; weighing from 24 to 40 kg. The colour of the crust is dark or golden natural yellow, whereas the cheese interior is whitish or the colour of straw. Its typical scent is fragrant and delicate. It is produced throughout the Po Valley river in Northern Italy.
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BAGOSS
IN BRESCIAN DIALECT, THE TERM BAGOSS MEANS FROM BAGOLINO, A SMALL TOWN CLOSE TO LAKE IDRO AND THE SAME NAME BAGOSS, IS USED FOR ONE OF THE MOST TYPICAL TRADITIONAL LOCAL CHEESES.
The production of Bagoss is closely associated with the pastures of the Sabbia Valley and the town of Bagolino. In winter, the raw milk from Bruna Alpina cows is prepared in the cheese production sites at the bottom of the valley or in the local cheese making consortium. However, in summer time, seasonal migration takes the herd to higher pastures, where the grass is fresher, and the milk is transformed into cheese in malghe farms, according to traditional methods using ancient instruments made from wood and copper.
Bagoss has a decisive, aromatic but not spicy flavour, which is appreciated by the most discerning palates. Its colour is intense yellow, because of the use of saffron in its production. The cheese is cylindrical with a diameter of approximately 40 cm and a weight of 16 kg; it is matured for 12 to 24 months. Bagoss is an excellent table cheese, served sliced, grated or roasted on the grill.
The link between the product and the terroir is absolute: Bagoss is typical of Bagolino and only produced in these valleys. The best times of the year for a historical and gastronomic visit to Bagolino are summer (for those who like mountain biking, hiking, canyoning and rock climbing) and February, for the historical carnival which dates back to the sixteenth century.
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Where? Two DOP olive oils are produced in the province of Brescia: Garda Bresciano and Lombard lakes - Sebino. The former comes from the coastal areas of Lake Garda which include the Valtenesi hills and the area from Desenzano to Limone, whereas the second is produced in all the towns overlooking Lake Iseo from Iseo to Marone.
EXTRA VIRGIN
Oil yes, but only extra virgin olive oil. Pour a few drops of oil on bread or on boiled potatoes; try it on its own sipping from a teaspoon, without anything else. You will enjoy a new sensation, a velvety perfume, a flavour both intense and decisive, at times bitter and spicy, typical of freshly produced olive oil. One of the most typical Italian agricultural products is produced around Lakes Garda and Iseo: extra virgin olive oil. It is light, easily digestible, tasty, delicately scented, with a very low level of acidity (the distinguishing feature of the most
olive oil
prestigious olive oils) with a greenish-gold colour, making it a unique product with an infinite variety of nutritional virtues, modern and ancient at the same time. Lake Garda is home to the most northerly production of citrus fruit in Italy and olives have been cultivated in this area since antiquity. We cant speak about tourism to Lakes Garda and Iseo without mentioning extra virgin olive oil, the basic product of the local gastronomic tradition, used with meat, fish and vegetables, to enhance their freshness and flavour.
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What? Lombard Lakes Sebino DOP extra virgin olive oil is made from Leccino, Frantoio, Casaliva, Pendolino and Sbresa olives. Garda DOP is made from Casaliva, Frantoio and Leccino olives with typical Mediterranean flavour and fragrance. In order to protect the consumer, two voluntary Consortiums make regular product controls, in order to ensure absolute quality.
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The great culinary tradition of the lakes continues in Montisola where traditional trattorie (some of which are still managed directly by fishermen) offer original local recipes which simply have to be tasted. Lake Idro is another intriguing site both for sports enthusiasts and gourmands. The constant winds attract wind surfing, sailing and kite surfing enthusiasts and the absence of large motorboats makes it an ideal location for relaxing and fishing. It only costs a few euros to purchase a tourist fishing licence (valid for 2 months). Visit one of the many restaurants to enjoy grilled or marinated fish or alla pescatora sauce. Once upon a time, there was a little port Then, over time, the modest trattorie with vaulted ceilings and stone walls became gourmet temples for the most sophisticated palates. The prestigious villas overlooking Lake Garda have hosted illustrious guests such as Winston Churchill, who visited for painting holidays, and D. H. Lawrence, who described the charming atmosphere. These hotels are now internationally famous. The most famous restaurants are located in luxurious art nouveau residences where history, cuisine and Italian style come together in an ideal synthesis.
So many fish There are 23 species of fish found in Lake Iseo, including char, chub, minnow, bleak, eel, pike, whitefish, trout, perch and tench. Lake Garda is home to pike, sardines, bleak, eel, burbot, carp, the rare and prestigious carpione (a fish only found in Lake Garda, which lives in the deepest waters of the lake), whitefish (very widespread and usually prepared grilled, served with just a glug of olive oil), royal perch and three species of trout (lake trout, iridea and fario), beloeved by fishermen and gourmets. Perch, pike, chub, eel, bleak and, naturally, trout can be found swimming in Lake Idro, an alpine lake located on the border between Lombardy and Trentino, half way between Lakes Garda and Iseo. Each of these fish is cooked in a different way in order to respect its individual features, according to local tradition in various areas of the lakes.
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pure gold:
CAVIAR
You might be surprised to learn that Calvisius caviar is produced in Brescia. This is the story of the white sturgeon, a marvellous creature which can live up to 100 years and weigh up to 400 kg, growing as much as 6 metres in length. White sturgeon is a fish with extraordinary health features in line with modern requirements; its flesh is particularly soft, with 18% protein and only 3% fat.
It is said that a Roman nobleman with a fine palate, known as Calvisius, once lived in the Brescian plains, in the town known today as Calvisano. He was passionate about fine dining and built a luxurious home where he began harvesting sturgeon in order to have fresh caviar. He gave his name to the town which inherited his culinary traditions, Calvisano.
TRUFFLES
Truffle gathering has very ancient origins. People of every age and social status enjoy this activity and they are still hunting today. Families who gathered truffles were known throughout the Brescian valleys from the early fifteenth century. By the end of the nineteenth century, there was constant activity of truffle gatherers and dogs on the western shores of Lake Garda and in the Brescia hills. The truffles gathered were divided into summer and winter varieties. We now know that the most commonly gathered winter variety was the Tuber melanosporum , a prestigious black truffle. Nature allows this rare species to grow in very few sites across the globe, so it is a privilege that they develop and mature on the sunny hills of Lake Garda. In the past, this tuber grew abundantly in nature; today deforestation and many other factors have caused many natural growth seasons to regress. In any event, through the Association of Brescian Truffles Gatherers, a selection of the most prestigious truffles has been reinstatement in the countryside and they are now reproducing due to specialised cultivation techniques, which have made it possible to increase production to levels that are more than satisfactory. The fame of truffles as a cooking ingredient derives from their fragrance and their organoleptic properties, and today they are considered to be one of the most exquisite gastronomic delicacies. Whether black or white, truffles are always in demand to enrich and exalt the pleasures of the palate. For the greatest enjoyment, truffles should be used with dishes which intensify their quality and should not be served with food that has a strong or pronounced flavour. www.asstartufaibresciani.it
eggs, up to 3 mm in diameter, second in size only to Russian Beluga caviar. The result is a caviar of the highest quality, delicate dark grey pearls with a substantial size, produced according to the Malossol style (which is to say, with little salt) allowing them to maintain their extraordinary natural fragrance. Their principal feature is the delicate fruity flavour best tasted with a mother of pearl spoon so as not to alter in any way the flavour which is slightly nutty with a delicate aroma, ideal with a Franciacorta ros. www.calvisius.com
The price is also competitive: Calvisius costs less than Beluga. When Czar Peter the Great took the prestigious caviar as a gift to Louis XV, he spat it out on the floor of Versailles, demonstrating his distaste for what is today a synonym for luxury.
The prestige of caviar is due above all to its ability to offer rare and precious pearls, which are a gift for extremely refined palates. The type of sturgeon harvested in Calvisano produces particularly large
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Manzo allolio in Rovato For centuries, Rovato has been famous for its meat market and today it serves a wonderful speciality beef in olive oil, the most tender meat you could imagine. Just one piece of advice: use the priests hat! (The capello di prete is a triangular cut of beef from the outer part of the shoulder.) Whats the best recipe for Manzo allolio? Motorway A4 Milan Venice, exit Rovato!
Brescian spit roast (spiedo) Spit roast is a typical Brescian dish, an art form, bringing people together. Every area of the province of Brescia has its local variety: an ideal spit roast meal begins with a bowl of liver soup, a light broth. The spit roast is prepared with chicken, rabbit, spare ribs, pork shoulder butt and potatoes... The meat is impaled onto steel rods with a sage leaf between each piece of meat to enhance flavour. Thus prepared, the spit roast is inserted in a rotisserie in a sealed space known as tamburo, which contains burning coals to cook the meat over five to six hours. During cooking, the spit roast is basted copiously with locally produced butter and salted according to taste
MEAT
Pay careful attention whenever you see the words municipal denomination product (prodotto a Denominazione Comunale - DeCo). This brand is used by several municipalities in Italy to indicate the most typical and highest quality local products. DeCo is a brand issued by the municipality which indicates a product whose derivation and production are part of local history. DeCo is used as an instrument for marketing local regions in order to increase tourism and involve harvesters, producers and restaurateurs, all of whom have a
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CHESTNUTS
Chestnuts from the Camonica Valley represent a rich and important resource in this area since the 1950s, when their production and consumption began to be widespread. One often finds sweet chestnuts lying open, drying in the warmth of grates over an open fire or on a thin net awaiting peeling and mixing. This dried fruit is known as biline. They can be boiled and prepared for tasty soups, with a cream base or they can be enjoyed fresh, boiled with a laurel leaf, of course. Sometimes they are also ground with water mills, used to obtain the traditional flour used in the Camonica Valley to make cakes and biscuits. As well as their use for sweets and puddings, Camonica Valley chestnuts can also be enjoyed on their own at the end of the meal; they go well with chestnut liqueur or grappa. Several local products are made with chestnuts: Biscuits Pasta and flour Dried chestnuts Honey and chestnut cream Liqueur and grappa Christmas products Cosmetic creams www.consorziocastagna.it
Brescian sweets are especially rich due to the high quality of our locally sourced basic ingredients, their meticulous preparation and their association with local history and events, not to mention the local ingenuity which often compensates the paucity of ingredients. The most typical sweets? Spongada , bossol, persicata, Brescian biscuits, giuggiole broth and scalit.
Products made from monococco: beer biscuits shortbread breadsticks bread www.pianurabresciana.com
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Brescia is strategically located a short distance from Milan and Venice and at the intersection of the great European corridors connecting France to Austria (from west to east) and Germany and Central Europe to Rome (from north to south).
INFORMATION Brescia is a halfway point in a circuit of cities of art such as Verona, Trento, Bergamo, Milan, Mantua and Cremona. Brescia and its lakes are, therefore, the perfect jumping-off spot for visiting these cities, shopping or going to concerts. Its geographic location and scenery, along with its historic, artistic and cultural treasures, food and wine, and events and facilities, make the Province of Brescia a perfect tourist destination.
BY CAR: From Torino and Milan, highway A4, Brescia Centro exit. Alternate route: from Torino, highway A21. From Venice or Verona, highway A4 in the direction of Milan, Brescia Centro exit. From Bologna, Florence or Rome, highway A1 to Modena, highway A22 to Verona, highway A4 to Brescia Centro. From Genoa and Liguria, highway A7 to Tortona, highway A21 to Brescia. www.autobrennero.it www.autostrade.it BY TRAIN: Brennero-Modena Line Milan-Venice Line www.trenitalia.it
BY AIR: Verona Villafranca Valerio Catullo Airport (50 km) www.aeroportoverona.it Montichiari (Province of Brescia) Gabriele DAnnunzio Airport (15 km) wwww.aeroportobrescia.it Bergamo, Orio al Serio Airport (80 km) www.sacbo.it Milan, Linate and Malpensa Airports (100 km) www.sea-aeroportimilano.it Venice, Marco Polo Airport (100 km) www.veniceairport.it
Monaco di Baviera
LINATE
Bologna
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Modena Roma
PHOTOGRAPHY CREDITS: page 2-3 Consorzio Franciacorta, Franciacorta Wine Route page 6-7 Consorzio per la tutela del Lugana Doc page 11 Consorzio Grana Padano page 13 Fonte Maniva Spa www.maniva.it
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