Kayaking Log Book

Session One Parts of the kayak

Bow - Front end of the kayak Stern - Back end of the kayak Port - Left side of the kayak - facing forward Starboard - Right side of the kayak - facing forward Kayak Rudders: These provides paddlers the ability to control direction (steer) using their feet via a rudder system with cables attached to sliding or pivoting foot peddles Kayak Retractable Skeg (not shown): The skeg is deployed from the hull and can be lowered up, down or anywhere in between using a hand controlled lever or dial for use as a tracking aid Kayak Drop Skeg: (not shown): They can only be dropped completely down or raised out of the water completely by an external deck cord. Kayak Rudder Support: A bracket on the stern deck, which the rudder sits in when not engaged, and provides the paddler with solid bracing as it prevents the foot peddles from moving. A rudder support also provides a safe lock down position when transporting a kayak Rudder Cord: Enables the paddler to easily raise or lower their rudder system by hand as desired, using an internal or external cord Drain Plug: Recreational kayaks provide a drain plug to conveniently relieve water Kayak Back band: Sea Kayaks tend to have a multi-adjustable lowslung back band while recreational models tend to have a higher backed seat, which, may or may not be adjustable Cockpit: The designated area the paddler sits in to best control their kayak. Sea Kayaks tend to have a small opening allowing better bracing and control while, Recreational Kayaks have larger openings for easy entry & exit Kayak Seats: Most modern kayaks have comfortable, multiadjustable seats although some Recreational & Sit-on-Top Kayaks simply use a one piece molded sitting area

Bungee shock Cords (bow): Perfect to store a map, water bottle or attach a low-slung deck bag to house small pack items in an easily accessible area Bungee Cords (stern): Most Sea Kayaks provide a bungee system in the shape of an X providing paddlers the ability to perform selfrescues. Kayak Footbraces: British Style Kayaks (skegs) provide a fixed footpeddle system for solid bracing Kayak Hatches & Storage Compartments: British Style Kayaks tend to use oval or rounded rubber hatch covers providing convenient virtual watertight storage and safety through buoyant airtight chambers Kayak Bulkheads (not shown): composite wall in fibreglass & Kevlar kayaks or a foam wall in polyethylene kayaks to separate the kayaks storage area from the boats cockpit area and to limit water access Grab Handles: Secure handholds to move a kayak Kayak Cockpit Combing or Rim: Refers to the collar around the boats cockpit for which a spray skirt can easily be attached to keep the cockpit area dry Cleat: Most Kayaks offer a starboard side cleat to lock the rudder in a down position for safe transport Hip Pads: Help eliminate sideways movement for paddlers which, in turn provides them with more refined kayak control Thigh Braces: Enable paddlers to lock the inside of their knees under the forward cockpit area which, in turn allows them to "become one" with their kayak for better boat control through body weight transfer Perimeter Lifelines: Enhance paddler safety as bow & stern lifelines best enable paddlers the ability to grab the kayak from an in water position Emptying the kayak 1. Get the Kayak on land The first step to empty a kayak that has got some water in of course is to get the kayak out of the water and onto land. This can be done by swimming with it and pulling it to shore/land. If you have the help of a fellow paddler, they can either push your kayak to shore with the nose of their kayak or they may clip a rope to your kayak and tow it to shore/land, or both of you can grab the two grab handle at either end of the kayak and lift the kayak out of the water. 2. Roll the Kayak on to the Upright Position If the kayak is not upright already, flip it over. Grab the kayak's cockpit from underneath and pull up on it slowly so as to break the suction it has with the water. Once the seal between the

cockpit and the water is broken begin to roll it over while allowing the water to drain out. 3. Two man Job If there are two of you, and the kayak is still on its side, turn it over again so the cockpit is touching the ground, then each get one end and stand up together. Once you are both stood up, if you of you goes down to the floor so the kayak looks like a horizontal shape. By doing this any water that is at the opposite end of the way that you are tipping it should come out. After you have done your end, let your partner do his end. If you do this a couple of times, the water should mostly be out. Getting into the kayak The following will help you to get into a kayak. 1. Place the Kayak in the water near the bank or shore. The water should be deep enough that the boat stays afloat after you get in. Hold the Cockpit to keep it from drifting away from the bank. 2. A Kayak is unstable, especially if you are not in it. Keep it steady as you get in by placing one end of the Kayaking Paddle across the boat, just behind the Cockpit, while the other blade rests on the bank or shore. Do not to let go of the Cockpit as you do this. 3. While holding the back of the Cockpit Coaming and the Paddle, put your leg (the one near the boat) into the Cockpit. Maintain your balance and keep your weight low. Move forward and tuck the other leg beside the first. 4. Straighten your legs and sit comfortably. Release your hold of the Cockpit Coaming and move the Kayak Paddle in front of you. Once you are in the kayak, make sure that your spray deck is tightly secure around your cockpit. Session Two Moving the kayak with hands Moving the Kayaks with two people and with hands is not very hard. At each end of the kayak should be a grab handle. To equally spread the weight of the kayak, if one of you go down to the stern either on the right or left hand side (It is completely up to you), and if the second person goes to the bow on the opposite side two your partner, for example if the person at the stern on the right hand side, the person at the bow will need to go on the left hand side. And if the person at the stern is on the left hand side, then the person at the bow will have to go on the right hand side. Once you are in your places, supply bend with your knees, grab the grab handle and lift

(make sure you use your power in your legs not your back). Once you are both stable and comfortable, you can start to walk.

Lifting Grab handle

Capsizing (No spraydeck- include information on capsize procedures) The easiest way to get out of the kayak after capsizing is to lean forward in the kayak as if you are pointing to your toes and you should slip out, if not then you may need to give your self a little push out. The one thing to remember after you have capsized is not to panic, if you do this then it may lead one into a serious situation, so just relax and you will get your self out. If you follow these procedures nine times out of ten you will come out anyway. Session Three Parts of the paddle A kayak paddle is a tool used by kayakers to steer and move their boats. There are a variety of strokes that paddlers use, including the forward stroke, backward stroke, low brace, and high brace. A kayak paddle is an extension of the kayaker, and learning the proper technique behind each stroke is essential to conquering more difficult kayaking expeditions. The Blade: Kayak blades come in a wide range of shapes and sizes. Many connect to the shaft separately, while others are integrated directly into the shaft. Larger blades sizes are typically used with long and narrow sea kayaks and provide a lot of stroking power. Medium-size blades work well for general touring use. Smaller blades are better for recreational kayaks for light paddling. Some kayak blades are swept back or spoon-shaped toward the end of the blade to provide a better bite in the water when paddling.

The Shaft: The shaft of the kayak paddle connects the two blades of the paddle together and provides a handle by which the kayaker can use the paddle. Shafts are typically made of aluminum or fiberglass, although composite shafts made of carbon fiber are becoming more popular. Shafts can be straight or may have bends in them to provide a more ergonomic grip. Some shafts are round in cross section while others may be oval or egg-shaped to allow for a better grip on the shaft. Grips: Some kayak paddles have separate grips fitted to the shaft. The grips increase the diameter of the shaft, making it easier for kayakers, particularly those with large hands, to hold the paddle comfortably. Grips are usually made of foam rubber or silicone

Connectors: For ease of storage and transportation, some kayak paddles have connectors that allow the paddle to come apart. These connectors can also be used, in some cases, to shorten or lengthen the shaft of the kayak paddle. Twist lock or button-and-hole bayonettype connectors fasten the pieces of the kayak paddle together securely. Paddling technique is all about efficiency. Power for the stroke comes from your forearms and torso. Use your torso to pull the paddle through the water and your forearms to hold the downward pressure. Using too much arm will cause fatigue and undue stress on the elbows. Moving forwards To be able to do the forward sweep stroke you must: Lean forward. With the front side pointed away from the bow, place the Kayaking Paddle blade in the water. Put it as close to the bow as you comfortably can. Rotate your body. With your lower arm straight and your other arm not higher than shoulder level, pull the Paddle blade and sweep it out in the widest arc that you can make, simultaneously pushing forward with your foot on that side. A bigger arc means a more effective turning technique. Make

sure that the blade is completely submerged as you swing the blade away from the bow. Straighten your body up as you sweep past the middle of the arc. When the blade is about 45 degrees to the stern, take it out of the water. Do not let it catch your boat, otherwise, it may capsize. Moving backwards The Backward Paddling Stroke that will enable you to move backward when necessary, for instance, you will run into something or someone. To be able to do the backwards paddling stroke you must: Rotate your shoulders as far as you comfortably can to one side. Submerge the Kayaking Paddle blade in the water as far back as possible. Look over your shoulder and check if the coast is clear when you move backward. Push the lower Kayak Paddle blade forward, extending your lower hand and bending your top hand. The stroke ends when the lower blade reaches your feet. Your lower arm should be straight at this point. Take the blade out of the water. Rotate your body and do the stroke on the other side.

Session Four Capsizing (Using a spraydeck) The purpose of a spraydeck is to keep the operator of a kayak safe and comfortable and help keeps the water out. If too much water enters the kayak, it could potentially capsize, so the spraydeck help prevent the kayak from capsizing, however it does not always work. A spraydeck just supply sits around the edge of the cockpit of the kayak. So when you capsize you must lean forward as if you are trying to touch your toes, as you do this you must also pull a leaver/handle at the front of the spraydeck and what this leaver does is lets you loose from the cockpit so that you can follow the normal capsizing procedures (lean forward and slip out).

Methods of turning (Sweep stroke and low brace turn)

The sweep stroke is an effective technique for a smooth and significant change in course. In order to perform a right-hand turn, place the arms out straight, then rotate the paddle and plant the left blade far forward in the water next to the left side of the hull. Rotate your body left while maintaining your arm rigidity. Trace a half circle around and end with the blade next to the hull again. For smaller turns, the blade can be pulled from the water at any point in the arc once the desired bearing has been reached. For left-hand turns, simply perform the technique on the opposite side. There may be times when you find yourself tilting on one side due to a wave, and your boat is on the verge of turning over. Keep your Kayak upright by making some sort of support. One technique you can do is the Low Brace. In this technique, you will push the blade of the Kayaking Paddle down in the water to prevent your Kayak from capsizing. In order to perform a low brace turn you must: Do the Low Brace on the side that you are tilting toward, with the shaft resting across the Cockpit, place the Paddle blade flat on the water slightly behind you, with the back side to the water surface. Gently push the back side of the blade against the water surface. This action will give you enough time to move your body back in an upright position. Roll your hands upwards and slice the blade back out of the water.

Methods of stopping The forward Sweep: For ease of storage and transportation, some kayak paddles have connectors that allow the paddle to come apart. These connectors can also be used, in some cases, to shorten or lengthen the shaft of the kayak paddle. Twist lock or button-and-hole bayonet-type connectors fasten the pieces of the kayak paddle together securely. The reverse or back Sweep: The reverse or back sweep is the reverse of the forward sweep. Start the stroke by rotating your body and head to the stern, place the blade with the power face toward the hull of the kayak and sweep the blade out and forward in a long arc culminating at the hull of the kayak near your feet. The kayak will turn toward the stroke side. The stern motion is the most effective portion of the back sweep. Session Five

Eskimo Rescue (also known as the T rescue) Eskimo rescue can be used with your friends when they have capsized and need help. When you capsized you must not panic because your partner has got you covered, which is one the thing that the person who has capsized must remember. Once the person has capsized , he is going to hit the side of the kayak three times, you must make sure that you hit the side of the kayak very hard so the your partner can here you. After the three hits, he is going brush his arms against the kayak in a 180 degree motion; you do this because it gives your partner an understanding of where he wants you to put the stern or the bow of the kayak to, so that the person under the water does not have to feel around in a panic. The second person will hear and see that his partner has capsized and will help him. He does this by paddling the kayak straight at the side of his partner kayak with either the bow end or the stern and you do this like you are ramming him (but not to hard), as soon as you have hit your partners kayak, your partner under the water will know where the bow or stern will be because you have told your partner where you want it to be and you would of heard where the kayak has made contact. Then the person under the water will put his hands either on the bow or stern and use his strength to lift his head out of the water. At this stage, the person still in the water can use his strength again to put the kayak the right way up. The other Eskimo rescue is also a very useful way to help partner. You will follow the same procedures, hitting the kayak and brushing your arms against the kayak. However your partner helping you will not ram you, instead he will pull up beside you. Once he has pulled beside you he will place the paddle on the belly of the kayak and place the bow in his partners hands still holding to on to the paddle at his end. Once you are both in this position, the person under the water will use the paddle to turn himself 90 degrees so that his head is out of the water and then grab onto the side of his partners kayak whilst still holding onto the paddle to turn himself the remaining 90 degrees. What you are basically doing is using the paddle for power and support. Another Eskimo rescue is the self-rescue roll. Once you have capsized, you must place your paddle on either side of the kayak ( right or left handed), at this point you must learn forward as if you

are touching your toes with your paddle, but you have to learn more to the side where your paddle is (top left, top right). At this point, move your paddle 90 degrees away from your kayak and hold this position. That was the easy bit, from now on it gets difficult. At this stage it is all about power, you have to use the paddle for power. You have to use the paddle as if you are lifting it over your head. But you must make sure that you use plenty of power in the paddle to be able to get your self out of the water. If you dont use enough power you will not get your self out of the water. Therefore you will have to think of another option, either try it again, or use the eskimo resuce with a friend. If you suscessfully achieve the eskimo self rescue roll, you would have noticed that you are know longer in the water, and are out of the water. You may want to check that your spray deck it still tightly sercure around the cockpit and there may be water lying on the top of the spraydeck which you may want to remove, but not asentual.

Sculling Draw The Sculling Draw Stroke is another technique that you can do if you want to move sideways. This is similar to the Draw Stroke, only this time, you need to place your Kayaking Paddle blade closer to the Kayak, and push and pull the blade to move the boat sideways. It is especially useful when moving laterally in limited spaces. In order to preform a Sculling Draw you must: 1. With the drive face (front side) towards the Kayak, place the Paddle blade in the water, less than one foot from the boat. Make sure that the shaft is vertical and the blade is completely submerged in the water. 2. Rotate your wrists so the drive face points slightly towards the bow. 3. Move your blade as far forward as you can. Keep your body in an upright position and the shaft vertical. Make sure to keep the Paddle at the same distance from the side of the Kayak. 4. Rotate your wrists in such a way that the blade is slightly facing the stern. Quickly

pull the blade as far back as you comfortably can without leaning back. 5. When the blade is behind you, rotate your wrists so the drive face points slightly towards the bow. 6. Move the blade forward. You should have moved sideways at this point.

Sculling for support The sculling stroke is used to give extra support when the kayak is not moving, or when the forces creating a capsize are not momentary. For example, it is used to change position and cool off while waiting for the group to catch up or waiting to cross a boat channel. Or, it can be used when the paddler is being buffeted by powerful winds or has capsized in a standing wave in rapidly moving water. The paddle shaft is held horizontally to the water as possible, power face down. The more horizontal the paddle is held, the more support you gain from the paddle. Keep the off side hand near the kayaks. This ensures maximal blade area contact with the surface. The paddler uses body rotation to move the paddle in wide forward and backward arcs. The blade is almost flat on the water, but the leading edge is raised slightly by wrist action. If the leading edge is not raised, the paddle will sink. If it is raised too high the stroke will turn into a forward or reverse sweep, and support will be lost. The paddle action is there to provide the opportunity to use the lower body to control the boat.