Hair: Biology and Cosmetic Aspects

Protocol of Essay Submitted for Partial Fulfillment of Master Degree in Dermatology, Venereology and Andrology Presented by
Norhan Ali Heider

(M.B., B.Ch.) Faculty of Medicine Ain Shams University Supervised by

Prof. Dr. May Hussein El-Samahy

Professor of Dermatology, Venereology and Andrology Faculty of Medicine, Ain Shams University

Dr. Nermeen Samy Abd Allah

Lecturer of Dermatology, Venereology and Andrology Faculty of Medicine, Ain Shams University

Faculty of Medicine Ain Shams University 20 07

Introduction
The human hair follicle is a unique appendage which results from epithelio-mesenchymal interaction initiated around the 3rd intrauterine month of development. This appendage has a very complex structure, distributed into 6 main compartments, namely the connective tissue sheath, the dermal papilla, the outer root sheath, the inner root sheath, the shaft and the sebaceous gland. The pigmentation unit, responsible for hair colour, is made of fully active melanocytes located on top of the dermal papilla (Bernard, 2005). All mature follicles undergo a growth cycle consisting of (growth) anagen, (regression) catagen and (rest) telogen phases (Barinov and Sulaeva, 2004). Anagen hairs grow for about 3 years (1000 days), with a range between 2 and 6 years. The follicular matrix cells grow, divide, and become keratinized to form growing hairs. As the matrix produces the hair shaft, it incorporates substances that may be useful in medical or forensic analysis. Catagen hairs are in a transitional phase, lasting for around 3 weeks, in which all growth activity ceases, with the eventual formation of the telogen "club" hair. Many apoptotic cells are present in the outer root sheath of the catagen hair as it involutes. Telogen club hairs are resting hairs, which continue in this state for 2 to 5 months (about 100 days) before they are released (Rebora et al., 2002). Human hair is also designated as lanugo, vellus or terminal hair. Lanugo hair is the fine hair present on the body of the fetus. This is replaced by vellus and terminal hairs. Vellus hairs are fine, usually light coloured, and have a narrow hair shaft thinner than the width of the inner root sheath. Terminal hairs are coarse, thick and dark, except in blonds (Rebora et al., 2002).

As early as can be traced, written documents testify endeavors shown by humanity to please by means of the hair. Hair care, colour and style play an important role in people's physical appearance and selfperception. Dermatologists should be knowledgeable about the procedures people follow to look their best and should have the competence to provide patients with information on the benefits and hazards of hair cosmetics and pharmaceuticals (Treb, 2001). Characterization of the cellular structure, chemical and physical properties of hair are essential to develop better cosmetic products and advance the biological and cosmetic sciences, which is done by examining the hair by electron microscopy, transmission electron microscopy and atomic force microscopy (Chen and Bhushan, 2005). Hair cosmetic agents are preparations intended for placing in contact with the hair and scalp, with the purpose of cleansing, promoting attractiveness, altering appearance, and/or protecting them in order to maintain them in good condition. The great amount of variables to be accounted for, some of them contradictory and hard to bring into accord, makes adequate product formulation a challenge and requires continuous research. Recent hair cosmetics developments include topical hair growth stimulants, photoprotectors, and anti-aging compounds (Treb, 2005).

Aim of the Work:

The aim of this study is to review hair biology, hair care cosmetics and pharmaceuticals regarding their chemistry, uses and adverse effects. This study will include: - Introduction and aim of the work. - Review of literature. - Discussion. - Summary and conclusion. - References. - Arabic summary.

References
Chen N and Bhushan B (2005): Morphological, nanomechanical and cellular structural characterization of human hair and conditioner distribution using torsional resonance mode with an atomic force microscope. J. Microsc.; 220(2): 96-112. Barinov EF and Sulaeva ON (2004): Histophysiology of hair follicles: current concept. Usp. Fiziol Nauk; 35(4):65-77. Bernard BA (2005): The biology of hair follicle. J. Soc. Biol.; 199(4):343-8. Treb RM (2005): Dermocosmetic aspects of hair and scalp. J. Investig. Dermatol. Symp. Proc.; 10(3):289-92. Treb RM (2001): The value of hair cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Dermatology; 202(4):275-82.

Rebora A, et al. (2002): A new phase of the hair cycle? Dermatology; 205: 108.