Marks & Spencer Plc

March 2009

GUIDELINES FOR PREVENTION OF 'ELUSIVE YELLOWING' What is 'Elusive Yellowing'?

It is the reversible chemical reaction of Oxides of Nitrogen, an atmospheric pollutant, with anti-oxidants under alkaline conditions on textile materials resulting in a yellow discolouration of white and pastel coloured merchandise. If any one of these factors is absent, then the probability of 'Elusive Yellowing' is significantly reduced.

What Can Be Effected?

Any natural or man-made fibres in any colour but it is only obvious with white and pastel colour merchandise.

When Does It Occur?

'Elusive Yellowing' can occur at any stage up to point of sale. Customer complaints of merchandise becoming yellow are usually due to other agencies, e.g. poor light, wet alkali light fastness or bleach.

How Can It Be Prevented?

Research has shown that if the following are all present, elusive yellowing is very likely:1. Presence of Oxides of Nitrogen in the atmosphere. 2. Certain chemicals (anti-oxidants) present on the fabric. 3. The fabric to be in an alkaline condition.

It is each suppliers' responsibility to ensure all reasonable precautions have been taken to minimise, or preferably, eliminate the causes of Elusive Yellowing both in their own factories and at their suppliers throughout the supply chain including subcontractors and outworkers .

Sub-contractors/Out-workers
Where suppliers sub-contract or use out-workers, it is the suppliers responsibility to ensure these guidelines are adopted. Particular problems include: Oxides of Nitrogen. In domestic environment "Calor Gas" type heaters are additional sources of NOx. Sewing machines may be lubricated with incorrect oils which contain the anti oxidant , BHT. Packaging or wrapping materials may not be the correct quality all polythene must be BHT-free All rubber components used on M&S hangers must be BHT free. This means less than 5ppm (5ppm = 0.0005%). We will carry out random checking and reserve the right to reject any hangers that do not conform to this specification.

RECOMMENDATIONS
1. Oxides of Nitrogen These cannot be eliminated completely as they are naturally occurring gases. At these very low levels (10ppb) there is no problem. Increasing the pollution of the atmosphere can promote yellowing. The following must be avoided: Use of open-flame gas heating, including space heaters, in both production and warehouse areas, even on a temporary basis. Use of diesel/gas engine fork lift trucks in the production or warehouse areas. Reversing lorries into warehouses entrances so that exhaust fumes pollute the warehouse. Once warehouse doors are open, the vehicle engines must NOT be left running. This should become standard procedure. All lorries should be well maintained to ensure exhaust fumes do not contaminate stock.

The levels of Oxides of Nitrogen pollution in the warehouse and factory can easily be checked.

10 - 20 ppb is highly unlikely to give yellowing problems. 40 - 70 ppb is a potential problem is exposure is continuous at this high level. It is important to note that even at 70 ppb Oxides of Nitrogen are unlikely to be a health risk. The following organisation is able to check levels of Oxides of Nitrogen for you by using passive diffusion tubes for NO2 monitoring, BV are UKAS accredited for this analysis. Alan Porteous Bureau Veritas Laboratories 139 Summerlee Street Queenslie Glasgow G33 4DB Tel : 0141 774 6271 (option 2) Fax : 0141 774 9280 Important: Drager Tubes can be used to assess levels of Oxides of Nitrogen. However, this only gives a measure at the time of reading.

Additional Notes - High Risk areas in Storage and Processing Storage areas within a factory should be kept away from areas of potential pollution caused through high concentrates of Oxides of Nitrogen. Examples of these are. i) The Loading Bays Vehicle emissions in a confined space ii) The Boiler House and Stenter Finishing area iii) Poorly maintained or badly ventilated oil and gas fired direct heating systems iv) Ensure Warehouses are not located close to any adjacent heavy traffic locations

2. Chemicals Including (Anti-Oxidants) On Fabric/Yarn

2.1 Ensure that fabric and component suppliers are correctly processing to assure that all loose dyeing and finishing chemicals are efficiently removed and that the fabric is processed so it remains slightly acid (pH levels to be between 56).

Important: Citric Acid is frequently used in the final bath by dyers and finishers to give acid finished fabric. Work has indicated that treatment in high concentrations of Citric Acid followed by high temperature can result in permanent discolouration. It is advisable to carry out trials to establish the optimum Citric Acid concentration to avoid discolouration problems.

2.2 Many machine oils, including sewing machine lubricants, contain antioxidants. Strict control should be made of the types of machine oils used to ensure they are Butyl Hydroxy Toluene (BHT)-free. Here special attention should be paid to service or temporary mechanics who may be unaware of your requirements.

3. Foam Wherever this is used in merchandise, it should be: 3.1 Polyester Polyurethane Foam (not Polyether Polyurethane) Foam. See Marks and Spencer Method of Test C53 identification of ester and Ether Polyurethane Foam 3.2 free of BHT. 3.3 contain no OBA. (Those used by the foam industry have very poor light fastness.)

4. Packaging 4.1 All Polythene used throughout fabric/garment manufacture must be BHTfree. BHT is commonly used as it is a 'food safe' antioxidant used in polythene packaging, (it is a sterically hindered phenol). Important In several instances, Polythene suppliers have claimed their products are BHT free. Frequently, the Polythene contains the anti-oxidant under a Trade Name. 4.2 Fabric and work-in-progress should NOT be left un-packaged longer than absolutely necessary. It should be packaged in BHT-free Polythene to prevent

contamination by Oxides of Nitrogen. 4.3 Tissue paper may be used. However, this is not a barrier to Oxides of Nitrogen. Fold/display boards and boxes, if used, must be Phenol and Sulphur free.

4.4

All rubber components used on M&S hangers must be BHT free. This means less than 5ppm (5ppm = 0.0005%). We will carry out random checking and reserve the right to reject any hangers that do not conform to this specification.

4.5

5. Testing 5.1 Merchandise should be checked for the potential to 'Elusive Yellowing' using the Marks & Spencer Method of Test C20B - Elusive/Reversible Yellowing: Courtaulds Method. Further details are available in the Marks & Spencer Quality Standards website. Test Kits are available from:James H Heal & Co. Ltd. Richmond Works, Lake View, Halifax HX3 6EP Registered in England - No. 414668 Tel: +44 (0) 1422 430669 ; Fax: +44 (0) 01422 352440 Email: peter.goodwin@james-heal.co.uk Web: http://www.james-heal.co.uk

5.2 Polythene packaging can be tested to ensure it is free of BHT and similar Chemicals. Your supplier should be able to give appropriate test results. 6. Stock Rotation Since fabric and garments have a greater chance of yellowing the longer they are stored, then correct stock rotation is important in minimising storage times and hence potential to yellow.

7. Reminder of points which can affect an increase of yellowing instances The use of cheaper polythene sources which contain BHT Poorly maintained lorries which risk exhaust fumes- containing oxides of nitrogen which contaminate the load cheaper sewing machine lubricants being re- introduced which contain BHT fabric being finished alkali