Instructors Guide

Production Management and the Technical Package

Paula J. Myers-McDevitt

Fairchild Books New York

Copyright 2011 Fairchild Books, a Division of Cond Nast Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this book covered by the copyright Hereon may be reproduced or used in any form of by any means Graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information storage and retrieval systems without written permission of the publisher.

ISBN 978-1-56367-881-3 GST R 133004424 Printed in the United States of America ii

Table of Contents Introduction Sample Course Outline Freshmen or Sophomore Sophomore and Junior Sophomore, Junior, and Senior Junior, Senior, and Graduate Chapter 1: Production Management Chapter 2: Costing Chapter 3: Production Planning and Scheduling Chapter 4: Sourcing Production Chapter 5: Assembly and Finishing Chapter 6: Packing and Distribution Chapter 7: The Technical Package Chapter 8: The Design Sheet Chapter 9: The Illustration Sheet Chapter 10: The Fabric Sheet Chapter 11: The Component Sheet Chapter 12: The Label/Packing Sheet Chapter 13: The Detail/Construction Sheet Chapter 14: The Specification Sheet 5 6 8 11 13 17 20 23 26 29 31 33 36 38 41 43 45 48 1

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IG Appendix The Fashion Production Interview Simple Monthly Budget Writing a Business Plan / Elements of a Business Plan Production Planning Tasks Master Production Schedules Cutting Ticket How to Source or Locate Contractors Calculating Production Labor Cost Calculating Costs for United States Piece Rate Workers Packing Slip Finding a Career in Fashion Basic Illustrator Tutorial for Tracing a Photo/Image United States Textile Mills Garment Components Label/Packing Components Sewing Operations for Constructing Jeans Apparel Production: Overview Points of Measure / Sources for Measuring Garments 50 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 68 69 70 71 72

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Introduction Production management, and specifically the technical package, is becoming more important in the industry with increased globalization of garment production and the need to unify product information. Apparel Production Management and the Technical Package is essential for fashion students (and professionals) who wish to understand this exploding trend in production management. They need to gain the skills necessary for this new universe of apparel manufacturing. The text provides an overview of production management in the global marketplace while examining in detail the components of the technical package, or tech-pack, a series of forms that define a garments specifications that is critical to ensuring that a particular style is executed correctly and in the most cost- and time-efficient manner possible. The text is laid out simply: Parts I and II (Chapters 16) provide information on production management, costing, planning, and global production, including sourcing, assembly and finishing, packaging, and distribution. Part III (Chapters 814) is organized as a production workbook. This section contains an overview of the information you will need concerning the technical package (Chapter 7) and features the seven major components of the package, with descriptions, instructions, and examples for each. Also included throughout the text are Industry Insider Profiles, readings about professionals within the industrytheir strengths, their talents, their strategies for success, their business philosophy. The appendices contain important resources, including basic flat-sketch and body form croquis, basic industrial sewing stitches, a button selector gauge, care labeling regulations, and basic measurement points. Who in the production team is given the task of assembling the production package varies by company. Ultimately, however, the production manager is responsible for ensuring the accuracy of the technical package. Companies vary their technical packages based on the needs of the company; however, most companies include the seven components highlighted in this text. As students work through the chapters in Part III, they will be given the opportunity to create their own technical package, using either a garment of their own design or one provided by the instructor. Not every student will have the skills needed to complete every

sheet in the workbook. Students should not be discouraged. In the industry the production manager must collaborate with the merchandising, design, technical, and sales departments to obtain all the information contained within a technical package. Using the Learning Features Apparel Production Management and the Technical Package is organized as a production workbook. It offers many of the theories used in production management, costing, planning, sourcing, scheduling, manufacturing, and distribution. The examples and sample pages of the technical package encourage students to develop the skills used by professionals in the industry. The textbook does not offer design, patternmaking, or technical design lessons. However, an assemblage of these skills is helpful when using this text. Chapter Objectives The objectives at the beginning of each chapter can be used as a preview or guide to the content of that chapter. Return to these objectives after covering the chapter to point out the key features of the material covered. Key Terms Students can use the key terms to review the chapter. Each term can be studied in context; they are shown in bold type when they first appear. The terms are also defined in the glossary. Terms may be used for assessing student comprehension via fill-in-the-blank, matching, and multiple- choice questions. Labs The labs have been designed to reinforce the content of each chapter while allowing students to practice the techniques described and build their production or technical package skills. Some of the lab activities provide mental challenges asking the student to analyze a situation using the knowledge they have just learned, while other activities will require research or a hands-on activity.

Insider Industry Profiles The profile of industry professionals illustrates the various career paths of many; these also offer the student a real-work application of skills needed or used in the industry. The profiles can be used to foster classroom discussions about the individuals featured, the experience they obtained, or the philosophies they hold within their business. Appendixes The texts appendixes provide reference material that can be used for creating technical packages, and to enhance students general production management knowledge. (The Instructors Guide has its own appendix, referred to throughout as IG appendix.) Organization of the Book Production management can be taught at any level within the curriculum. However, more knowledge is generally needed for a student to fully comprehend the technical package. The book has been organized to accommodate classes from the early years of undergraduate study to the graduate level.

General Teaching Notes At the first lecture, students may not have yet purchased the textbook. Regardless of semester system, the majority of the period may be devoted to reviewing the syllabus. Generally speaking, chapters can be covered in one or two 50-minute meetings; it is up to the instructor to decide how much information to present, suiting the needs of the course and students. The chapter labs have been provided to expand the students knowledge, and may be used to foster classroom discussions. A student may be asked to lead the class discussion, or groups can be formed to discuss individual topics. The labs have also been set up to test the students skill level and offer more opportunity for the more advanced student. Field trips and classroom speakers always enhance the students experience. Depending on the school location, this may be easier for some instructors to organize than others. If fashion production is not available, look for production in another field; it will still offer the basic concepts covered in the text. As stated earlier, the text features Industry Insiders Profiles, which may be used as points for discussion. By reading these profiles, students will see that not all of the people

profiled began their working lives in the industry. They will also see what knowledge certain individuals needed to in order to obtain their current position. Short quizzes and exams have been offered for each chapter for Parts I and II. Instructors may decide to grade lab work or final projects. About the Instructors Guide The Instructors Guide for Apparel Production Management and the Technical Package includes concise chapter objectives, teaching notes, answers to production management labs, as well as an IG Appendix of handouts and other useful resources. An additional Excel Appendix and Test Bank are available to download from the texts online resources page. (Instructors should please contact sales to obtain access to the online resources.)

Sample Course Outline Six-week Semester System

(Freshmen or Sophomore)
Week Week 1 Topic Syllabus Review Production Management Chapter Chapter 1 Readings and Assignments Read Chapter 1 and assign 1 or 2 lab questions Read Chapter 2 Week 2 Costing Chapter 2 Assign lab questions Chapter 2 Read Chapter 3 and assign 1 or 2 lab questions Week 3 Production Planning and Scheduling Exam Sourcing Production Assembly and Finishing Chapter 3 Study Chapters 13 for exam Read Chapter 4 and assign 1 or 2 lab questions Chapter 4 Chapter 5 Read Chapter 5 and assign 1 or 2 lab questions Read Chapter 6 and assign 1 or 2 lab questions Week 5 Packing and Distribution Exam The Technical Package Final Exam Chapter 6 Study Chapters 46 for exam Read Chapter 7 and assign both lab questions Study chapters 1-7; Final Exam

Week 4

Week 6

Chapter 7

Sample Course Outline Ten-week Semester System

(Sophomore and Junior )
Week Week 1 Topic Syllabus Review and Production Management Chapter Chapter 1 Readings and Assignments Read Chapter 1 and assign 1 or 2 lab questions Read Chapter 2 and assign 1 or 2 lab questions Week 2 Costing Production Planning and Scheduling Week 3 Exam Sourcing Production Week 4 Assembly and Finishing Packing and Distribution Week 5 Exam The Technical Package Chapter 2 Chapter 3 Part I Chapter 4 Chapter 5 Chapter 6 Part 2 Chapter 7 Read Chapter 3 and assign 1 or 2 lab questions Study Chapters 13 for exam Read Chapter 4 and assign 1 or 2 lab questions Read Chapter 5 and assign 1 or 2 lab questions Read Chapter 6 and assign 1 or 2 lab questions Study Chapters 47 for exam Read Chapter 7 and assign 1 or 2 lab questions Read Chapter 8 and assign 1 or 2 lab questions as student skills warrant Read Chapter 9 and assign 1

Week 6

The Design Sheet

Chapter 8

or 2 lab questions as student skills warrant The Illustration Sheet Chapter 9 Read Chapter 10 and assign 1 or 2 lab questions as student skills warrant Read Chapter 11 and assign 1 or 2 lab questions as student skills warrant Read Chapter 12 and assign 1 or 2 lab questions as student skills warrant Read Chapter 13 and assign 1 or 2 lab questions as student skills warrant Read Chapter 14 and assign 1 or 2 lab questions as student skills warrant Study Chapters 714 for exam Preparation for presentation of Student Final Projects

Week 7

The Fabric Sheet

Chapter 10

The Component Sheet

Chapter 11

Week 8

The Label/Packing Sheet

Chapter 12

The Detail/Construction Sheet

Chapter 13

Week 9

The Specification Sheet Exam

Chapter 14 Part 3

Week 10

Student Final Projects

Sample Course Outline Twelve-week Semester System

(Sophomore, Junior, and Senior)

Week
Week 1

Topic
Syllabus Review Production Management

Chapter

Readings and Assignments

Read Chapter 1 and assign lab questions

Chapter 1 Chapter 2 Chapter 3 Field Trip

Read Chapter 2 and assign lab questions Read Chapter 3 and assign lab questions Preparation of questions for Field Trip/Speaker Study Chapters 13 for exam

Week 2

Costing Production Planning and Scheduling

Week 3

Field Trip to production facility to see management, costing, planning, and/or scheduling Exam on Part I

Read Chapter 4 and assign lab questions Chapter 4 Chapter 5 Read Chapter 5 and assign lab questions Read Chapter 6 and assign

Week 4

Sourcing Production Assembly and Finishing

lab questions Week 5 Packing and Distribution Exam on Part II Week 6 The Technical Package The Design Sheet Week 7 The Illustration Sheet The Fabric Sheet Week 8 The Component Sheet The Label/Packing Sheet Week 9 The Detail/Construction Sheet The Specification Sheet Week 10 Exam on Part III Chapter 7 Chapter 8 Chapter 9 Chapter 10 Chapter 11 Chapter 12 Chapter 13 Chapter 14 Chapter 6 Study Chapters 46 for exam Read Chapter 7 and assign lab questions Read Chapter 8 and assign lab questions Read Chapter 9 and assign lab questions Read Chapter 10 and assign lab questions Read Chapter 11 and assign lab questions Read Chapter 12 and assign lab questions Read Chapter 13 and assign lab questions Read Chapter 14 and assign lab questions Study Chapters 714 for exam Preparation of questions

for Field Trip/Speaker Field Trip/Speaker on Technical Package Week 11 Week 12 In-class lab to work on Student Projects Student Final Projects

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Sample Course Outline Fifteen-week Semester System

(Junior, Senior, and Graduate)

Week
Week 1

Topic
Syllabus Review Production Management, Pop quiz Chapter 1

Chapter

Readings and Assignments

Read Chapter 1 and assign lab questions

Chapter 1 Chapter 2 Chapter 3 Chapter 4 Chapter 5 Chapter 6 Chapter 7

Read Chapter 2 and assign lab questions Read Chapter 3 and assign lab questions Read Chapter 4 and assign lab questions Read Chapter 5 and assign lab questions Read Chapter 6 and assign lab questions Read Chapter 7 and assign lab questions Read Chapter 8 and assign lab questions. Note:

Week 2 Week 3 Week 4 Week 5 Week 6 Week 7

Costing, Pop quiz Chapter 2 Production Planning and Scheduling, Pop quiz Chapter 3 Sourcing Production, Pop quiz Chapter 4 Assembly and Finishing Pop quiz Chapter 5 Packing and Distribution, Pop quiz Chapter 6 The Technical Package

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Advanced students should be creating a technical package Week 8 Week 9 Week 10 Week 11 Week 12 Week 13 Week 14 Week 15 The Design Sheet The Illustration Sheet The Fabric Sheet The Component Sheet The Label/Packing Sheet The Detail/Construction Sheet The Specification Sheet Student Final Projects and/or Exam on Part III Chapter 8 Chapter 9 Chapter 10 Chapter 11 Chapter 12 Chapter 13 Chapter 14 Read Chapter 9 and assign lab questions Read Chapter 10 and assign lab questions Read Chapter 11 and assign lab questions Read Chapter 12 and assign lab questions Read Chapter 13 and assign lab questions Read Chapter 14 and assign lab questions Finish Student Final Projects and study for exam Chapters 714

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CHAPTER 1 PRODUCTION MANAGEMENT Chapter Objectives Understand the organizational structure of a standard production department Understand the basic job skills and requirements of each position within the production department Cite challenges in production management Teaching Notes This chapter introduces: The Production Department (p. 3 4) Example topics a) The three major facets of production work i. What are they and what do they mean? b) The four major roles of the production team i. Discuss each one and have students give examples of how each is accomplished. c) The departments that help develop the technical package i. A mock company could be formed with students assuming each role. ii. How do they interact with one another? Encourage them to consciously try to understand the importance of each others role within the company. d) Box 1.1 Industry Insider Patrizio di Marco i. Have the students read the story on page 4 of the text. Have them discuss why it is important for a CEO to know his or her employees and what is happening within the companys departments. ii. Why shouldnt the CEO just rely on upper management? For further discussion, assign students to collectively research the Gucci Company and/or Di Marco. The Production Team (p. 5 7) Example topics a) The eight positions highlighted in this section i. What are they and how do they differ? b) Figure 1.1 Production Department Division of Labor chart i. Have students review the chart on page 6 of the text. How do production employees relate to other employees within the company? Challenges in Production (p. 7 9) Example topics a) Three major challenges in production i. What are they and why are they so important? b) Box 1.2 Industry Insiders Pepe and Reyes Amat i. Have students look at story on page 9 of the text. Ask students to explain why it is challenging for Pepe and Reyes to work together in design and production.

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Table 1.1 Duties, Strengths, and Skills of the Production Team (p. 10) Example topics a) Production Manager, Production Assistant, Quality Assurance Manager, Strengths and Skills i. Discuss the skills needed for each job and how those skills are obtained. ii. Discuss the skills needed for interviewing and how to interview, using the handout, The Fashion Production Interview (see IG appendix). Answers to Production Management Lab 1. Aisha is a recent college graduate with a BS degree in Fashion and Clothing Technology. She just landed a job as a production assistant for an apparel manufacturer. a. What would her responsibilities as production assistant include? b. Is travel required of Aisha as an assistant production manager? Please support your answer. c. What skills could Aisha develop to further her career in production? What training might she need to prepare her for becoming a production manager? Lab 1.a As a production assistant right out of school, Aishas responsibilities could include anything from confirming quantities, styles, colors, and delivery dates; tracking fabrics and trims; maintaining cost sheets; tracking production of the salespersons samples and swatch cards; coordinating lab dips; and monitoring deliveries. Lab 1.b Travel is generally not required of an assistant production manager; however students might think out of the box and say that assistant production managers may be asked to travel. This is often true in emergency situations when the production manager is busy or simply to give the assistant training. (Make sure students support the position they take in their answer.) Lab 1.c Management skills are the most important. If Aisha has someone, or a small team, to supervise even through seasonal projects, this experience will enhance her management skills. Attending management meetings and asking her manager questions about production will help her become prepared. Additional schooling is always a plus; even those with a fashion degree can benefit from classes tailored specifically to business, engineering, and management. Aisha should inquire about her companys tuition-reimbursement plan. Companies like to invest in their employees. 2. Two years ago, after graduating from design school, Dominique and Patrice started a small swimwear company based in Florida. They have several local seamstresses who sew their line for production. To grow, however, they need to contract with a manufacturer. A friend owns a plant in the Florida area, or they can look for a jobber overseas. What do you recommend for Dominique and Patriceand why? Lab 2. The scenario in this question does not provide enough information for students to respond with a definitive answer. Why? Information about the companys price point is not given. If Dominique and Patrice have an expensive line, one might recommend that they contract with the friends plant in Florida. They are in the Florida area and can check in on the

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plant if there is a problem. They have little risk and can absorb the cost of labor. However, if their swimwear is selling at a lower price point, they should consider finding a jobber overseas. Do they know how to conduct business overseas? They are small and will therefore need to rely on a middleman. This will entail some risk. The cost of labor is low, so they will have more room for profit. Consider using this question for in-class discussion. 3. Choose a position in production other than production manager. Research this position, and write a short paper (two to three pages) about its duties and challenges. Lab 3. Students are asked to choose a position in production other than production manager. Research this position, and write a short paper (two to three pages) about its duties and challenges. Instructions may choose to grade papers accordingly or have students present the papers to the class. The findings will include: Production assistantA challenging entry-level or lower management position due to the amount of paperwork this employee is responsible for; this person reports to the production manager. The production assistant must have good oral and written communication skills and be computer-literate and attentive to detail and organized. Duties may include confirming quantities, styles, colors, and delivery dates; tracking fabrics and trims; maintaining cost sheets; tracking production of the salespersons samples and swatch cards; coordinating lab dips; and monitoring deliveries. A major challenge is keeping all of the work current and up to date. Inventory management clerkThe person responsible for tracking and maintaining records on all merchandise owned by the merchandise wholesaler/manufacturer at any given time. The inventory clerk must be detail-oriented and computer-literate and have good math skills. This position is occasionally part of the production assistants job, depending on the size of the company. A major challenge is keeping all of the work current and up to date. Scheduling clerk/managerThis person does the production scheduling in the manufacturing (sewing) plant. The scheduling manager works closely with senior management and Sales in order to schedule production according to projected sales. The scheduling manager must make sure that all garment components are received and that delivery dates are met. This person must be able to foresee and solve potential production problems. Computer skills and attention to detail are crucial. A major challenge is meeting delivery dates. Purchasing agentThis person is in charge of purchasing fabrics and other garment components. Purchasing agents work closely with the design team, obtaining pertinent fabric and component information. Depending on their level, purchasing agents may write purchase orders and be called upon to negotiate price points with suppliers. Computer and math skills, plus attention to detail, are imperative in this position. A major challenge is procuring the desired fabric for the desired price. Sourcing agentThe person who locates factories for production. The sourcing agent knows the factories capabilities and can recommend the best fit for a particular style. Sourcing agents may work on production price quotes and uncover design or assembly issues. Knowledge of import laws and limitations is required, as is foreign and domestic travel; therefore, this person must be well-groomed and have an understanding of foreign customs.

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The sourcing agent will need to rely on experience and intuition when choosing a factory to produce his or her companys goods. Good oral and written communication skills are needed. A major challenge is keeping all of the currently sourced vendors happy, while delivering goods to their merchants on time; while also finding new vendors. Costing agent A person who pulls together the elements of a garment (material/fabric, trims and other components, plus labor and shipping) to achieve workable costs. Good math skills are key. Experience, training, intuition, and negotiating skills will help the costing agent find a price that is right for the buyer yet profitable for the company. A major challenge is keeping costs down. Quality control/assurance agentThis can be performed by one person or by a separate department working with the production team. The basic role of quality control is to ensure that every garment produced meets the standards of the company. This position requires experience and technical training. The quality control agent must know every component of a garment, from fiber and fabric, to design, to patternmaking, to construction, to labeling, to performance. The agent will have apprenticed for several years and may have an engineering or other Bachelor of Science degree. Attention to detail is important. A major challenge is enforcing quality standards; especially when several venders are used.

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CHAPTER 2 COSTING Chapter Objectives Understand the cost-profit relationship. List the four stages of costing. Understand the differences between direct, absorption, and activity-based costing methods. Explain the breakdown of product costs on a cost sheet. Teaching Notes This chapter introduces: The Cost-Profit Relationship (p.13) Example topics a) Cost b) Define cost: what is it? c) Profit d) Define profit: what is it? c) Expenditures e) Discuss the six major expenditures involved in costing. f) Lead students in a discussion of the cost-profit relationship. The Stages of Costing (p.13 15) Example topics a) The Four Stages of Costing i. What are they and how are they used? b) Preliminary cost i. Have students read this highlighted section on page 15 of the text and discuss why managers use preliminary costs to determine if a designers concept is feasible, producible, commercial, marketable, and profitable. c) Actual cost i. Have students review this highlighted section on page 15 of the text and discuss why companies use actual costs to justify the purchase of new equipment, the hiring of new employees, as well as the expansion of offices and production facilities. d) Box 2.1 Industry Insiders Don Eugene and Bennett Gross i. Have students read the story of page XX of the text, and then begin a discussion of the company Callydus. Do they agree that running a company should be thought of like running a household? ii. Discuss the students household budget. Have students use the Simple Monthly Budget handout (see IG appendix) to create their own home or school budget.

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Costing Methods (p. 16 20) Example topics a) Variable Costing i. Define and discuss variable costing: what is it? ii. Use the variable cost sheet (labeled Direct Cost Sheet) on page 17 of the text. Explain how all material, trim and findings, and labor are included on the sheet, but what is not included is overhead. Overhead costs will be charged against revenue each period. iii. Have students review the sample cost sheet from TechPackCentral on page 23 of the text. Call attention to the fact that again, it does not include overhead costs. b) Absorption Costing i. Define and discuss absorption costing: what is it? ii. Use the absorption cost sheet on page 18 of the text. Explain how all material, trim and findings, and labor and overhead are included on the sheet. However, some costs are estimated because they have been used at an applied rate, which is arbitrary and may escalate. c) Activity-based Costing i. What is activity-based costing? ii. Use the activity-based cost sheet on page 19 of the text. Explain how generally only labor and overhead are shown on this sheet. Emphasize that it is used primarily for focusing on overhead costs and expansion, not costing a garment. Breaking Down Product Costs (p. 20 21) Example topics a) Figure 2.4 i. Have the students review the figure on page 20 of the text. Make sure they understand how fabric, trim, and labor equal total component costs. b) The two components of material costs i. What are they and why are they so important? c) Marker i. What is a marker and why is it important to costing? d) Labor i. What is a labor and why is it important to costing? Answers to Costing Lab 1. Explain the difference between cost and price. Give examples; you may wish to use Internet resources to support your answer. Lab1. Cost is the total dollar value given in expenditure, time, and energy required to receive services and produce goods. Price is the quantity of payment or money exchanged, set as compensation for one party to another, in return for goods or services. The cost of a good shown on page 18 of the text may be $109.14, the suggested retail

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may be $218.00 rounded up to $225.00. The retailer may actually offer the suit at $500.00 so that there is room for markdown while still making a profit. 2. Robert and Tom have started their own T-shirt company out of the back of their truck in Southern California. The shirts are made from vintage tees that are handpainted by Tom and sold by Robert. They cater to the beach and surfing crowd. Their T-shirts are very cool and have caught the eye of many California celebrities. Robert and Tom can now ask any price they like for their shirts, but they cannot keep up with demandvintage shirts are hard to find and the two might have to start producing vintage-style shirts, hiring freelance artists to do the painting. They are writing a business plan to present to the bank in order to borrow money. They need to figure out how much the shirts will cost to produce. a. What steps should Robert and Tom take in determining how to cost their Tshirts? b. Which costing method should they use, and why? Lab 2a. Use this question to initiate group discussion. Students may provide a range of answers, starting with the cost-profit relationship and the stages of costing. Use the Writing a Business Plan handout (see IG appendix) to enhance and further the discussion. Lab 2b. Using this question as a basis for group discussion, explore what information Robert and Tom need in order to cost out a garment. In response, students may choose the easiest and most direct cost sheet for Robert and Tom, the variable cost sheet, even though they may have to estimate labor costs. Students may choose the absorption cost sheet, knowing Robert and Tom may have to estimate not only labor, if it is unknown, but some of their other expenditures as well. This sheet could get Robert and Tom a closer to-the-penny and more accurate cost sheet. However, the bank may want Robert and Tom to complete an activity-based cost sheet for loan purposes. 3. Using the cost sheet provided (Figure 2.8), cost out a school project (a garment made in a construction/patternmaking/draping class). (Your instructor may choose to provide a garment instead.) How much would it cost to manufacture this item? Keep in mind labor in your area. Remember to cost the item by the dozen. Lab 3. The answers to this lab will vary depending upon the garment or garments chosen. The sheet provided on page 24 of the text can be used for direct or absorption costing. 4. Advanced students: Using the cost sheet provided, cost out a mini fashion line with six to eight signature pieces. Be sure to include a dress, skirt, pant, and jacket. Once again, remember to cost the items by the dozen. Lab 4. The answers to this lab will vary depending upon the garment or garments chosen. The sheet provided on page 24 of the text can be used for direct or absorption costing.

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CHAPTER 3 PRODUCTION PLANNING AND SCHEDULING Chapter Objectives Understand the difference between long-term and short-term planning. Understand the difference between preproduction and production planning. Understand the importance of scheduling. Teaching Notes This chapter introduces: Short-Term and Long-Term Planning (p. 27 28) Example topics a) The two types of business planning i. What are they and how long is each? b) The three necessities of planning i. What are they and why are they important? c) Table 3.1 Production Plan i. Guide students in a discussion of the table on page 28 of the text. Do they understand the time frame, type, condition, and repetition of each plan? Preproduction and Production Planning (p. 28 31) Example topics a) Coordinating preproduction tasks i. What are the four major tasks and how is each used? ii. Distribute the Preproduction Planning Task worksheet (see IG appendix); use as either an in-class activity or a mini-quiz. b) Two methods of accomplishing production planning i. What are they and how do they differ? c) Box 3.1 Industry Insiders David Greenburg and Joe Campinell i. In large or small groups, have students discuss why Greenburg and Campinell may have attended the NACDS planning meeting, including what their role was and what they hoped to bring back to the company. d) Five important tasks coordinated by the production department i. What are they and how or why are they implemented? e) Quick Response Manufacturing (QRM) and Quick Response Delivery System (QR) i. What are they, how are they used, and what are their advantages? Scheduling (p. 31 33) Example topics a) Scheduling i. Define scheduling: what is it? b) Six parts of a schedule i. Discuss the six major parts of a schedule. Use the Master Production Schedule Process handout (see IG appendix) for the discussion. Note:

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this covers the process of handling orders and setting up subcontractors/factories for the production of those goods. ii. For further discussion, use the Cutting Ticket handout (see IG appendix). Note: As orders are placed and increase, a cutting ticket becomes one of the tools used as part of the schedule. c) Table 3.2 Womans Market: Planning Schedule for Five Seasons i. Have students review the table on page 32. Discuss the major seasons, and why some retailers are beginning to stray from this system. d) Program Evaluation Review Technique PERT i. Discuss PERT and the three simple principles. Why are they important to the production manager? What might happen if the system is not followed? Answers to Production Planning and Scheduling Lab 1. How does the push-and-pull supply chain (a producer pushes an item onto a customer, while a customer is pulled toward an item) affect the planning process? Provide examples to support your answer. Lab 1. Answers will vary, generally cover the following: Items are pushed through the chain using methods such as television, radio, and the Internet. Commercial and celebrity endorsements are two of the largest forces for pushing a product. Pulling comes from consumer demand. A manufacturer may be caught off-guard regarding the popularity of an item, especially when it has been worn or purchased by a celebrity. In push, manufactures need to make sure they have production plans in place to produce goods before advertising the product; Nintendo with its Wii and Apple with its iPhone have often pushed more product than they were able to deliver, upsetting their customers. Conversely, a manufacturer can be surprised when a product it does not expect to become popular gets red hot in the marketplace, especially during the holidays. In 1983 the Cabbage Patch Doll was the first such item to really exemplify the pull from consumers. Elmo dolls are another example. As a result, manufactures needed to find additional contractors to produce their goods quickly, but consumers still had to wait weeks for delivery of these products. 2. Miriam and Bob Wright own a small chain of department stores in the northeastern part of the country. For them to stock a variety of styles, they have to limit their inventory to one garment per size. They have installed the QR system to make purchasing and stock replenishing quicker and easier. a. Are Miriam and Bob smart in limiting their stock to one garment per size in order to carry more items, or should they carry less variety and more stock of each item? Support your answer. b. If a customer comes into Bob and Miriams store, generally liking what they carry, but finds her size is sold out in a number of items, what would you suggest she do? Why?

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Lab 2a. If this question is used for in-class discussion, students will generally answer from their own experiences. Either a yes or no answer is acceptable; assess to what degree students support their answer. Lab 2b. Students will produce a variety of responses that might reflect any or all of the following: She could ask Miriam or Bob to call one of their other stores to check for her size; she could ask when they receive stock, so that she can arrive early for a better chance to get her size; or she could ask them to custom order some pieces. 3. Research and write a short paper (two to three pages) about the QR system. How has it changed the way retailers do business? Lab 3. Students are asked to research and write a short paper (two to three pages) about the QR system and how has it changed the way retailers do business. Instructions may choose to grade papers accordingly or have students present the papers to the class. They will be many findings. QRM looks at the availability and accessibility of resources through purchasing and supply chain management.

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CHAPTER 4 SOURCING PRODUCTION Chapter Objectives Understand the role of a sourcing agent and global sourcing. Cite the variables influencing production capability. Recognize style assignment and production samples. Teaching Notes This chapter introduces: Global Sourcing and the Sourcing Agent (p. 49 41) Example topics a) The role of the sourcing agent i. What is it? b) The duties of a sourcing agent. i. What are they and why are they important? c) Figure 4.1 New Global Sourcing Structure i. Lead students in a discussion of the structure presented on page 40 of the text. Why do they think sourcing agents now have contact with each branch? d) New areas of focus for sourcing agents i. Discuss the new areas and how they impact sourcing. e) Box 4.1 Industry Insider David Swartz i. Have the students read and discuss the story on page 41 text. How does the information presented here relate to sourcing in risk zones? ii. Have students research countries in risk zones and report on their findings, this could be in oral or written reports. f) Sourcing factors to understand when balancing a business i. What are they and why are they important? g) How to source or locate contractors i. Use the handout provided below to introduce the various ways sourcing agents can find new vendors. Production Capabilities (p. 42 43) Example topics a) Effects on a plants production capabilities i. Name and discuss how the four major effects impact production. b) Global specialization i. Look at the countries highlighted on page 42 of the text and each of their production specializations. c) Product specialization i. Review and discuss the manufacturing facilities (and each of their production specializations) highlighted on page 43 of the text. ii. Have students review Figure 4.2 on page 42 of the text. iii. For further discussion or as small-group project, have students categorize the clothing worn by all their classmates. Assuming that

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everything was made at specialty production facilities, how many would be utilized? Style Assignment and Production Samples (p. 43 45) Example topics a) Style Assignment i. What is it? b) Style Assignment Worksheets i. What are they and why are they used? c) Production Sample i. What is it and why is it used? ii. Have students review Figure 4.4 on page 45 of the text. Do they think the dress prototype photographed fulfills its purpose? Answers to Sourcing Production Lab 1. What are your thoughts on free trade agreements? Have they helped or hurt U.S. manufacturing? Give examples to support your position. Lab 1. Answers will vary, generally reflecting the following: Students may first need to learn and understand that free trade agreements (FTAs) are treaties between two or more countries, generally meant to reduce or completely remove tariffs to trade. They can then offer their opinion on the topic during group discussion. Some students will think FTAs have helped the U.S. position, others may think it has only sent our manufacturing jobs overseas. Some may see a combination. Regardless of their position, they need to offer examples to support their stance. 2. Effie is a freelance sourcing agent who has been working in the Philippines for 15 years. She has a great relationship with several childrens wear manufacturers in the United States and uses vendors that she knows are reliable and stable. One of her clients asked for a ribbed tank top, and agreed to buy 500,000 units, but wanted to pay only $1.00 per shirt. This was a large order for Effie, but none of her vendors would take the order at that price. She found a new plant just outside of Manila and had a sample made. It was shipped to the manufacturer and approved, but at production the quality of the tops was found to be unacceptable. When Effie inquired, the owner of the factory stated, It took us 20 tries to get a sample that goodwhat do you want for a dollar? Cotton is very expensive. The manufacturer in the United States canceled the order, and Effie lost the client. a. What could Effie have done to ensure better quality from her new vendor? b. If none of her other vendors would take the order, why did Effie think this plant could do the job at that price? What should she have done differently? Lab 2a. This is an actual scenario and can serve as launching point for in-class discussion. Effie should have visited the factory when the sample was being produced. This would have shown her its capabilities. She could have asked for several samples; this would have shown her that the factorys production was not consistent. Effie could have made sure the vendor ordered the proper equipment needed for better quality if he wanted the order and future business.

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Lab 2b. Effie should have tried to broker a higher price from the manufacturer. Since none of her existing clients were willing to take the order for $1.00, there must have been a reason the cost was too low. Perhaps a promise of future business or a second order could have made the new vendor purchase better equipment. Perhaps an addition of 10 to 25 cents per item would have made one of her existing clients take the order. 3. Write a short research paper (three to five pages) on counterfeit goods. Do you think production samples add to the ease of piracy? Use information from recent news, journal, or other trade articles to support your answer. Lab 3. Students are asked to research and write a short paper (three to five pages) on counterfeit goods, including if they think production samples add to the ease of piracy. Using recent news, journal, or other trade articles they should support their support your answers. Instructors may choose to grade papers accordingly or have students present the papers to the class. They will be many findings.

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CHAPTER 5 ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING Chapter Objectives Understand garment components and labor. Understand the relationship between components and assembly. List the steps in garment finishing. Teaching Notes This chapter introduces: Garment Components and Labor (p. 49 54) Example topics a) Basic garment components i. What are they? Discuss with students how production components differ from home sewing components. b) Garment assembly i. What is assembly? c) Three methods of garment assembly i. Identify and discuss the three methods. Use Table 5.1, Description of Garment, on page 52 of the text to enhance and further the discussion. ii. Also use the Calculating Costs for United States Piece Rate Workers handout (see IG appendix) to enrich the discussion. d) Labor i. What is it and what does it include? Begin an in-class discussion about how inexpensive labor overseas has affected U.S. markets. Use the Calculating Production Labor Cost handout (see IG appendix) to help enliven the discussion. The Component-Assembly Relationship (p. 54 55) Example topics a) Assembly Progression i. What is it? Discuss the factors on page 55 of the text, also reviewing and discussing Figure 5.6 on the same page. Then refer back to Figure 5.2 on page 50 and discuss why the decision was made to hem the sleeve before it was attached to the garment. Can students provide some examples/reasons? Finishing (p, 56 57) Example topics a) Finishing i. Define finishing: what is it? ii. Two phases of finishing iii. What are they? Discuss their steps and/or elements. b) Box 5.1 Industry Insider Luigi Maramotti

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i. Have students read the boxed material on page 56 of the text. Do they feel fashion and art exist in the same type of climate, the same changes? Ask them to support their position. Answers to Assembly and Finishing Lab 1. Choose a favorite garment from your closet. How many components does the garment have? Remember to include all parts, as well as trims and findings. What do you think was the order (on the assembly line) in which this garment was constructed? Lab 1. Answers will vary, generally reflecting the following: The number of components including trims and findings. The list of all parts (if instructor requests this). The order of garment assembly will vary; some parts may even be produced simultaneously in production. 2. Explain which system of assembly (UPS, PBS, MPS) you think works best in todays world, and why. Use data from recent trade journal or credible Internet articles to support your answer. Lab 2. Because all three systems are used throughout the world, there is no right or wrong answer to this question. Students may have strong opinions about the fairness of the UPS system, they may understand that not all companies can afford the PBS system, and they may question whether the team-assembly method of the MPS really works. Regardless of their stance, they should provide data to support their choice. 3. Sandra owns a midsized childrens wear company in Georgia. The garments are made around the world but the company has always done the final finishing at the Georgia warehouse before shipping to retailers in the United States. As the company grows, Sandra wonders if she should continue to finish her goods at the warehouse or have each vendor finish them and use the warehouse just for distribution. a. What do you think Sandra should do, and why? b. What are the advantages and disadvantages of each method? Lab 3a. Students may choose the option that she keep her finishing in the United States, using points that reflect the following: Sandra is comfortable with doing business this way; she knows her goods will be made to her specifications even though she will need to grow. Or students will choose the option of letting vendors finish goods, using points reflecting the following: Sandra knows finishing could vary with vendors, but she will not have enough space as she grows. She can hire inspectors to spot-check goods, and use the warehouse for distribution. Lab 3b. Answers may reflect the following: Advantage: As most of the worlds labor is cheaper than in the United States, Sandra could save money having her goods finished in each country. Disadvantage: She should hire inspectors to spot-check the goods in America. Advantage: Inspectors would still save her some money. Disadvantage: Is the finishing from different countries consistent? Advantage: If she has her goods finished

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overseas, she does not need to expand. Disadvantage: If she has them finished in the United States, she will need to expand; does she have the resources?

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CHAPTER 6 PACKING AND DISTRIBUTION Chapter Objectives Understand the role of labels, hangtags, and packaging. Understand the distribution process. Teaching Notes This chapter introduces: Labels, Hangtags, and Packaging (p. 61 63) Example topics a) Label i. What is it and why is it used in apparel? Discus the different types of labels. b) Federal care label requirements i. What are the four main requirements? For further exploration of the, have the students visit and discuss the website noted in Figure 6.1 on page 62 of the text. c) Hangtag i. What is it and how is it used? Discuss the information included on a typical hangtag. d) Barcode i. What is it and why is it used? Discuss the new technological advances in barcoding. e) Packaging i. What is it and how can it differ for different retailers? Have the students review Box 6.1 Industry Insider Ann Deal on page 64 of the text. ii. Assign students to research apparel packaging images and report their findings in a written or oral presentation. This activity can be done either as a homework assignment or in small groups. The Distribution Process (p. 64 67) Example topics a) Distribution i. What is it? b) Distribution Center i. What is it, how is it used, and what are its advantages? c) Distribution Center Bypass i. What is it, how is it used, and what are its advantages? d) Cross-Docking i. What is it, how is it used, and what are its advantages? e) Packing Slip i. Use the packing slip handout (see IG appendix) to show one step of warehouse management and initiate an in-class discussion on the topic.

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Answers to Packing and Distribution Lab 1. Select a favorite garment from your closet. How many labels does the garment have? What are the contents of each? Do they comply with federal regulations? Lab 1. Answers will vary, but generally feature the following: Most garments will have two tags: the manufacturers label and the size/fabric/care label. Some garments will have a separate size label. All garments must carry fiber content and care instructions and country of origin, or they do not comply with federal regulations. 2. Design your own hangtag for your garment. Consider what would make it marketable on the retail floor. Lab 2. Hangtags will vary artistically but should all include the following: Company logo, size, and style information. Not required but often offered in a good hangtag is the RN or group number, as well as the company name and address. 3. Aaron and Sabina started a sheepskin boot company on their ranch in Colorado. The company office and manufacturing facility are located in their converted barn, with a small adjoining warehouse. So far they have been able to fill orders using UPS- and FedEx-type shipping methods. They would like to expand the line, offering coats and handbags, but will need the current warehouse space for more offices. The coats and handbags will not be made on-site. Aaron would like to build a new warehouse and distribution center at the ranch. Sabina would like to build a new warehouse but continue using their current carriers at the ranch. She wants the coat and handbag merchandise to ship directly from supplier (factory) to customer. What type of distribution method is Aaron proposing? Is his method best for the company? Why or why not? What type of distribution method is Sabina proposing? Is her method best for the company? Why or why not? Lab 3a. Aaron is proposing the distribution center type method. They own their own manufacturing facility, but would also be receiving goods from other facilities that would need to be repackaged and shipped to their customers. This is a good method for monitoring shipments from their vendors, spot-checking quality, analyzing returned goods from the retailers, and holding warehouse sales. A major disadvantage is that Aaron and Sabinas company may not be large enough, therefore they are not ready for this type of commitment. Lab 3b. Sabina is proposing the distribution center bypass or direct shipping type method. Even though she and Aaron own a manufacturing facility, they are contracting goods from other facilities that need to be shipped to their customers. Each facility could ship directly, which saves time and money in handling and fuel costs. However, inspections are left up to each facility, so continuity is lost. Goods are returned to each vendor so an analysis of defects is difficult as well. The advantage of this method is less risk until the couple is sure they can afford their own warehouse.

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CHAPTER 7 THE TECHNICAL PACKAGE Chapter Objectives Understand the purpose and uses of a technical package (tech-pack). Identify the parts of a basic tech-pack. Understand the variety of methods used to build a tech-pack. Teaching Notes This chapter introduces: The Technical Package: Overview (p. 73 80) Example topics a) Technical Package i. Define it and discuss how it may be used b) Building a tech-pack i. Discuss a basic tech pack and its parts: ii. Design Sheet: Figure 7.2a on page 75 of the text. iii. Illustration Sheet: Figure 7.2b on page 76 of the text. iv. Fabric Sheet: Figure 7.2c on page 76 of the text. v. Component/Trim Sheet: Figure 7.2d on page 77 of the text. vi. Label/Packing Sheet: Figure 7.2e on page 78 of the text. vii. Detail/Construction Sheet: Figure 7.2f on page 79 of the text. viii. Spec Sheet: Figure 7.2g on page 80 of the text. ix. For further discussion, return to Figure 7.1, a one-page tech-pack example, on page 74 of the text. Industry Tech-Packs (p. 81 93) Example topics a) Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) and Product Data Management (PDM) i. What are they, why are they used, and by whom, specifically? Discuss examples of companies using these systems. Have students read and discuss the material in Box 7.1 on Industry Insider Kiyomi Chansamone. ii. Students could further research Gerber Technology Web PDM and the services offered; their findings may be presented written or orally. b) Tech-pack by TechPackCentral i. Discuss the tech-pack illustration in Figures 7.3ag on pages 8288 of the text. ii. How are they the same as the basic tech-pack presented in this chapter and in what ways are they different? c) Tech-pack by Just D-zine i. Discuss the tech-pack illustrated in Figures 7.4al on pages 8893 of the text.

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ii. How are they the same as the basic tech-pack presented in this chapter, and in what ways are they different? Answers to Technical Package Lab 1. A technical package is used in the industry for what five purposes? Lab 1. i. The production department can go into the manufacturing process without needing to refer back to the design team. ii. Merchandisers and sourcing agents can ensure required materials are made available for production in proper quantities and on time. iii. Marketing can use the document in presentations or to sell styles to key customers before line samples are made. iv. Various departments within the company can refer to the tech-pack for points of discussion. v. The tech-pack brings unity and efficiency to a company. 2. Julie and Ren own a two-year-old nightshirt company in New York City. Annual revenue is already near $1 million. Because most of their merchandise is made in Turkey, Ren wonders if they should invest in a PLM or PDM system for the business. They currently use an Excel spreadsheet that Ren designed to track production and sales. i. Do you think they should continue using the spreadsheet Ren designed? Why or why not? ii. Would Julie and Ren benefit from investing in a PLM or a PDM system? Explain your answer. iii. What other systems could Julie and Ren use to track production and sales? Lab 2a. Student answers may vary. Some may feel if the current system is working, they should stay with it. Others may feel it may be time to upgrade in order to access more information. Regardless of the position, students should provide an explanation for their stance. Lab 2b. A PLM or PDM system could offer Julie and Ren the ability to collect, store, and process more information. Errors can be identified quickly, saving time and preventing costly mistakes. However, these systems themselves are costly and may be more than the couple can afford to buy and maintain. Lab 2c. Other industry packages range from simple Microsoft Word to Adobe and Adobe Illustrator.

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CHAPTER 8 THE DESIGN SHEET Chapter Objectives Understand the purpose and uses of a basic design sheet. Identify the parts of a basic design sheet. Recognize industry design sheets created by commonly used software applications. Teaching Notes This chapter introduces: The Design Sheet: Overview (p.97) Example topics a) Design sheet i. Define it and discuss the three different types of images that may be used b) Components of a design sheet i. What are the seven basic components? Preparing a Design Sheet (p. 98 99) Example topics a) Heading i. Discuss and identify using Figure 8.2 Sample design sheet on p. 99 of the text. b) Company information i. Discuss and identify using Figure 8.2 Sample design sheet on p. 99 of the text. c) Garment information i. Discuss and identify using Figure 8.2 Sample design sheet on p. 99 of the text. d) Season i. Discuss and identify using Figure 8.2 Sample design sheet on p. 99 of the text. e) Fabric information i. Discuss and identify using Figure 8.2 Sample design sheet on p. 99 of the text. f) Sketch, digital illustration, or digital photo i. Discuss and identify using Figure 8.2 Sample design sheet on p. 99 of the text. g) Approval boxes i. Discuss and identify using Figure 8.2 Sample design sheet on p. 99 of the text. Industry Design Sheet (p. 100 101) Example topics

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a) Figure 8.3 Gerber Technology used by TeckPackCentral i. Discuss and identify the parts of the pack explored in Preparing a Design Sheet. ii. Which of the seven basic components have been used, and which have not? iii. Has any other information been provided, and why? b) Figure 8.4 Illustrator/Excel used by Jillian Krebsbach i. Discuss and identify the parts of the pack explored in Preparing a Design Sheet. ii. Which of the seven basic components have been used, which have not? iii. Has any other information been provided, and why? c) Box 8.1 Industry Insider Teri Davis i. Have students read the story on page 101 of the text to learn about this sports enthusiast; discuss how she has turned her passion for both sports and design into a successful business. Answers to Design Sheet Lab 1. Using the template provided (Figure 8.5), create a design sheet for a garment design of your own creation (your instructor may provide one for you instead). Fill in the information using this chapters Preparing a Design Sheet section (pp. 98 99). Lab 1. This is a good starting point to use a final project and have students work on throughout the remainder of the course. Students are asked to use the template provided on page 102 of the text (also included in Appendix F) to create/complete a design sheet for a garment of their own design. Most of the information provided will be fictitious, as they will create their own company, address, etc. The garment may or may not accompany the design sheet for verification of fabric information, etc. If the instructor has provided a garment, then the instructor will provide the accompanying information. The textbook author suggests a Levi 501 mens jean. It may be used for class discussion while students work on a project of their own design. See Levis Design Sheet in the IG appendix. (Note: Levi Strauss and Co. declined to be part of this project, while the author has tried to give information as authentic as possible, some embellishment will exist.). 2. Create your own design sheet. What information do you believe should be added? What should be deleted? Lab 2. There are no right or wrong answers. Student design sheets should include the seven basic components listed on page 98 of the text, or explain why they do not. Students may decide include more information than the seven basic components and should explain why they have chosen those items. 3. Check the listings on at least two online job boards. How many ads can you find for tech-pack illustrators?

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Lab 3. Note: The Finding a Career in Fashion handout (below) offers guidance in researching online job opportunities. Tech-pack illustration will not necessarily be in the job heading but instead will be a job description, or part of a job description. Remind students of the value of persistence; its unacceptable to return with I could not find any job listings. At any time there will be jobs available for the following that would do such illustrations: Tech-pack assistant/designer/manager Assistant fashion designer Fashion illustrator Fashion graphic artist Assistant production manager Use the Finding a Career in Fashion in the IG appendix to aid the students in their search.

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CHAPTER 9 THE ILLUSTRATION SHEET Chapter Objectives Understand the purpose and uses of an illustration sheet. Identify the parts of a basic illustration sheet. Recognize industry illustration sheets. Teaching Notes This chapter introduces: The Illustration Sheet: Overview (p. 105) Example topics a) Illustration sheet i. Define it and discuss how it is used. c) Colorways ii. What are they? Why are they important to the illustration sheet? d) Elements of an illustration sheet iii. What are the twelve basic elements? Preparing an Illustration Sheet 106-107 Example topics a) Heading i. Discuss and identify using Figure 9.2 Sample illustration sheet on page 107 of the text. b) Company information i. Discuss and identify using Figure 9.2 Sample illustration sheet on page 107 of the text. c) Garment information i. Discuss and identify using Figure 9.2 Sample illustration sheet on page 107 of the text. d) Sketch box i. Discuss and identify using Figure 9.2 Sample illustration sheet on page 107 of the text. e) Fabric information i. Discuss and identify using Figure 9.2 Sample illustration sheet on page 107 of the text. f) Size ranges i. Discuss and identify using Figure 9.2 Sample illustration sheet on page 107 of the text. g) Delivery dates i. Discuss and identify using Figure 9.2 Sample illustration sheet on page 107 of the text. h) Approval boxes i. Discuss and identify using Figure 9.2 Sample illustration sheet on page 107 of the text.

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Industry Illustration Sheet (p. 108 109) Example topics a) Figure 9.3 Gerber Illustration Sheet by Just D-zine i. Discuss and identify the parts of the sheet explored in Preparing an Illustration Sheet. ii. Which of the basic components have been used, and which have not? Has any other information been provided, and why? b) Box 9.1 Industry Insider Just D-zine i. Have students, read the story on page 108 of the text and discuss how this diverse group created a successful business. Answers to Illustration Sheet Lab 1. Using the template provided (Figure 9.4), create an illustration sheet for a garment design of your own creation (your instructor may provide one for you instead). Fill in the information using this chapters Preparing an Illustration Sheet section (pp. 106 107). Lab 1. Have students continue to work on their final project. Here they are asked to use the template provided on page 111 of the text (also included in Appendix F) to create/complete an illustration sheet for a garment of their own design. Most of the information provided will continue to be fictitious, as they are creating their own company, address, etc. The garment may or may not accompany the illustration sheet for verification of color information, etc. If the instructor has provided a garment, then the instructor will provide the accompanying information. Remember, the author of this text suggests a Levi 501 mens jean. It may be used for class discussion while students work on a project of their own design. Use the following illustration sheet. (Note: Levi Strauss and Co. declined to be part of this project. Supplier names and fabric information have been added for illustrative purposes and do not reflect the actual supplier or color names used by Levi Strauss and Co.) [See Excel Appendix, Levi Illustration Sheet.] 2. Design you own illustration sheet. What information do you believe should be added? What should be deleted? Lab 2. There are no right or wrong answers. Student illustration sheets should include the eight basic components on page 106 of the text, or explain why they do not. Students may decide include more information than the eight basic components and should explain why they have chosen those items. 3. Adobe Illustrator is a very popular program with designers. If you have it, or access to it, sketch a few garments, then change the colors to show a few colorways. Can you add prints to your designs? Change the print colors. Lab 3. This project will be evaluated at the instructors discretion. Students will have various levels of skill and talent. The handout Basic Illustrator Tutorial for Tracing a Photo/Image (below) may be helpful for some students.

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CHAPTER 10 THE FABRIC SHEET Chapter Objectives Understand the purpose and uses of a basic fabric sheet. Identify the parts of a basic fabric sheet. Recognize industry fabric sheets. Teaching Notes This chapter introduces: The Fabric Sheet: Overview (p. 113) Example topics a) Fabric sheet i. Define it and discuss how it is used. b) Elements of a fabric sheet i. What are the eleven basic elements? ii. For further discussion, see Table 10.1 Textile Fibers for the Apparel Industry on page 116 of the text. iii. How many of these fibers do students know? This table also offers a good topic list for assigning short research papers. Preparing an Fabric Sheet (p. 113 115) Example topics a) Heading i. Discuss and identify using Figure 10.1 Sample fabric sheet on p. 115 of the text. b) Page number i. Discuss and identify using Figure 10.1 Sample fabric sheet on p. 115 of the text. c) Garment information i. Discuss and identify using Figure 10.1 Sample fabric sheet on p. 115 of the text. d) Fabric information i. Discuss and identify using Figure 10.1 Sample fabric sheet on p. 115 of the text. e) Sketch, digital illustration, or digital photo i. Discuss and identify using Figure 10.1 Sample fabric sheet on p. 115 of the text. f) Swatch i. Discuss and identify using Figure 10.1 Sample fabric sheet on p. 115 of the text. g) Size ranges i. Discuss and identify using Figure 10.1 Sample fabric sheet on p. 115 of the text. h) Delivery dates i. Discuss and identify using Figure 10.1 Sample fabric sheet on p. 115 of the text.

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i) Approval boxes i. Discuss and identify using Figure 10.1 Sample fabric sheet on p. 115 of the text. Industry Fabric Sheet (p. 116 117) Example topics a) Figure 10.2 Jillian Krebsbachs fabric sheet i. Discuss and identify the parts of the sheet explored in Preparing a Fabric Sheet. ii. Which of the basic components have been used, and which have not? Has any other information been provided, and why? b) Box 10.1 Industry Insider Jillian Krebsbach i. Have students read the story on page 117 of the text, noting and then discussing the skills she possesses and the experience she has accumulated to date. (Note: At the time of the textbooks publication, Jillian had graduated just two years earlier.) Answers to Fabric Sheet Lab a) Using the template provided (Figure 10.3), create a fabric sheet for a design of your own creation (your instructor may provide one for you instead). Fill in the information using this chapters Preparing a Fabric Sheet section (pp. 113115) and add a swatch of fabric or a scan in the swatch section. Create several sheets, using different colors. Lab 1. Have students continue to work on their final project. Here they are asked to use the template provided on page 118 of the text (also included in Appendix F) to create/complete a fabric sheet for a garment of their own design. Most of the information provided will continue to be fictitious, as they are creating their own company, address, etc. The garment may or may not accompany the fabric sheet for verification of fabric information, etc. If the instructor has provided a garment, then the instructor will provide the accompanying information. Remember, the textbook author suggests a Levi 501 mens jean. It may be used for class discussion while students work on a project of their own design. Use the following fabric sheets numbered 3a, 3b, and 3c for illustrative purposes only. (Note: Levi Strauss and Co. declined to be part of this project. Supplier names and fabric information have been added for illustrative purposes and do not reflect the actual supplier or color names used by Levi Strauss and Co.) [See Excel Appendix, Levi Fabric Sheets.] b) Design your own fabric sheet. What information do you believe should be added? What should be deleted? Lab 2. There are no right or wrong answers. Student fabric sheets should include the nine basic components on page 114 of the text, or explain why they do not. Students may decide include more information than the nine basic components and should explain why they have chosen those items.

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c) Visit your local fabric store. From the end of the bolt, record the fabric resource (supplier), fabric content, and color name or number for at least six fabrics. Some fabricsespecially those offered in coordinating prints or stripesmay also have a group name. Record this information as well. How many different suppliers can you find? Lab 3. This project could easily be used as a class field trip and will be evaluated at the instructors discretion. Items to note: Not all fabric will have vendor/supplier information at the end of the bolt. Not all fabric will be wrapped on a bolt. Fabric wrapped on a tube should have fabric information on a ticket/tag inside one end of the tube. Have students determine how many different countries of origin they can find rather than how many different suppliers. To enhance a classroom discussion about textile mills, use the handout United Stated Textile Mills (see IG appendix).

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CHAPTER 11 THE COMPONENT SHEET Chapter Objectives Understand the purpose and uses of a component sheet. Identify the parts of a basic component sheet. Recognize an industry component sheet. Teaching Notes This chapter introduces: Component Sheet: Overview (p. 121) Example topics a) Component sheet i. Define it and discuss how it is used. b) Elements of a component sheet i. What are the ten basic elements? Preparing an Component Sheet (p. 121 124) Example topics a) Heading i. Discuss and identify using Figure 11.1 Sample component sheet on page 123 of the text. b) Page number i. Discuss and identify using Figure 11.1 Sample component sheet on page 123 of the text. c) Component chart i. Discuss and identify using Figure 11.1 Sample component sheet on page 123 of the text. d) Approval boxes i. Discuss and identify using Figure 11.1 Sample component sheet on page 123 of the text. Industry Component Sheet (p. 124 125) Example topics a) Figure 11.2 Component sheet i. Discuss and identify the parts of the sheet explored in Preparing a Component Sheet. ii. Which of the basic components have been used, and which have not? Has any other information been provided, and why? b) Box 11.1 Industry Insider Zo Anderson i. Have students, read the story on page 117 of the text. Lead an in-class discussion focusing on why someone like Zoe is a good choice to create tech-pack trim designs.

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Answers to Component Sheet Lab 1. Continue the process begun in Chapter 7, using the template provided (Figure 11.3) to create a component sheet. Lab 1. Have students continue to work on their final project. Here they are asked to use the template provided on page 126 of the text (also included in Appendix F) to create/complete a component sheet for a garment of their own design. Most of the information provided will continue to be fictitious, as they are creating their own company, address, etc. The garment may or may not accompany the component sheet for verification of fabric and trim information. If the instructor has provided a garment, then the instructor will provide the accompanying information. Remember, the author of this text suggests a Levi 501 mens jean. It may be used for class discussion while students work on a project of their own design. (Note: Levi Strauss and Co. declined to be part of this project. Supplier names and fabric information have been added for illustrative purposes and do not reflect the actual suppliers or yardages used by Levi Strauss and Co. [See Excel Appendix, Levi Component Sheet.] 2. Design your own component sheet. What information do you believe should be added? What should be deleted? Lab 2. There are no right or wrong answers. Student component sheets should include the four basic components on pages 121122 of the text, or explain why they do not. Students may include more information and should explain why. (Note: A comment box has been added to the Levi Strauss and Co. component sheet.) 3. Conduct research using the Internet or trade publications to compile a list of component suppliers. How many can you find? Your instructor may assign a component type to each student or to groups of students for this assignment. Lab 3. This type of project is appropriate for creating student teams to do the activity, which will be evaluated at the instructors discretion. There is an abundance of component supplier information online and in trade publications; to help focus students efforts, the following components are suggested: Buttons Zippers Threads Elastics

For further discussion about different types of components, use the Garment Components handout (see IG appendix).

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CHAPTER 12 THE LABEL/PACKING SHEET Chapter Objectives Understand the purpose and uses of a label/packing sheet. Identify the parts of a basic label/packing sheet. Recognize an industry label/packing sheet. Teaching Notes This chapter introduces: Label/Packing Sheet: Overview (p. 129) Example topics a) Label/Packing sheet i. Define it and discuss how it is used. b) Hangtags and bar codes i. What are they and why are they used? c) Elements of a label/packing sheet i. What are the ten basic elements? Preparing a Label/Packing Sheet 129-131 Example topics a) Heading i. Discuss and identify using Figure 12.1 Sample label/packing sheet on page 130 of the text. b) Page number i. Discuss and identify using Figure 12.1 Sample label/packing sheet on page 130 of the text. c) Label/Packing chart i. Discuss and identify using Figure 12.1 Sample label/packing sheet on page 130 of the text. d) Approval boxes i. Discuss and identify using Figure 12.1 Sample label/packing sheet on page 130 of the text. Industry Label/Packing Sheet (p. 132) Example topics a) Figure 12.2 TechPackCentral i. Discuss and identify the parts of the sheet explored in Preparing a Label/Packing Sheet. ii. Which of the basic components have been used, and which have not? Has any other information been provided, and why? b) Box 12.1 Industry Insider Patrice Robson

43

i. Have students read the story on page 132 of the text. Lead an in-class discussion about why someone like Patrice is a good choice to create tech-pack labels/packing sheets. Answers to Label/Packing Sheet Lab 1. Continue the process of producing a tech-pack, this time creating a label/packing sheet. A template is provided in Figure 12.3. Lab 1. Have students continue to work on their final project. Here they are asked to use the template provided on page 134 of the text (also included in Appendix F) to create/complete a label/packing sheet for a garment of their own design. Most of the information provided will continue to be fictitious, as they are creating their own company, address, etc. The garment may or may not accompany the component sheet for verification of label and packing information. If the instructor has provided a garment, then the instructor will provide the accompanying information. Remember, the author of this text suggests a Levi 501 mens jean. It may be used for class discussion while students work on a project of their own design. (Note: Levi Strauss and Co. declined to be part of this project. Supplier names have been added for illustrative purposes and do not reflect the actual suppliers used by Levi Strauss and Co.) [See Excel Appendix, Levi Label/Packing Sheet.] 2. Design you own label/packing sheet. Do you prefer the chart or illustration type? What information do you believe should be added? What should be deleted? Lab 2. There are no right or wrong answers. Student label/packing sheets should include the four basic components on pages 129131 of the text, or explain why they do not. Students may include more information and should explain why. 3. Conduct research using the Internet or trade publications to compile a list of label and packing suppliers. How many can you find? Your instructor may assign a supplier type to each student or to groups of students for this project. Lab 3. This type of project is suitable for assigning students into teams; the activity can be evaluated at the instructors discretion. There is an abundance of label/packing supply information online and in trade publications; to focus students efforts, the following label/packing suppliers are suggested: Labels Hangtags Hangers Polybags

For further discussion about different types of components, use the Label/Packing Component handout (see IG appendix). Instructors may also wish to have students research the actual label/packing supply companies and submit a short research paper or oral report.

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CHAPTER 13 THE DETAIL/CONSTRUCTION SHEET Chapter Objectives Understand the purpose and uses of a detail/construction sheet. Identify the parts of a basic detail/construction sheet. Recognize an industry detail/construction sheet. Teaching Notes This chapter introduces: Detail/Construction Sheet: Overview (p. 129) Example topics a) Detail/Construction sheet i. Define it and discuss how it is used. b) Elements of a detail/construction sheet i. What are the six basic elements? Preparing a Detail/Construction Sheet (p. 138 139) Example topics a) Heading i. Discuss and identify using Figure 13.1 Sample detail/construction sheet on page 138 of the text. b) Page number i. Discuss and identify using Figure 13.1 Sample detail/construction sheet on page 138 of the text. c) Detail chart i. Discuss and identify using Figure 13.1 Sample detail/construction sheet on page 138 of the text. d) Approval boxes i. Discuss and identify using Figure 13.1 Sample detail/construction sheet on page 138 of the text. Industry Detail/Construction Sheet (p. 141 142) Example topics a) Figure 13.2 Industry Detail/Construction Sheet i. Discuss and identify the parts of the sheet explored in Preparing a Detail/Construction Sheet. Which of the basic components have been used, and which have not? Has any other information been provided, any why? ii. Do the students like this sheet or the sheet in Figure 13.3? Discuss similarities and differences, exploring the advantages and disadvantages. b) Figure 13.3 Detail/Construction Sheet Template

45

i. Discuss and identify the parts of the sheet explored in Preparing a Detail/Construction Sheet. Which of the basic components have been used, and which have not? Has any other information been provided, and why? ii. Do the students like this sheet or the sheet in Figure 13.2? Discuss similarities and differences, exploring the advantages and disadvantages. c) Box 13.1 Industry Insider Laundry Studio i. Have students read the story on page 140 of the text. Discuss with them why a company such as Laundry Studio is hired to create tech-pack detail/construction sheets. Answers to Detail/Construction Sheet Lab 1. Create a detail/construction sheet to add to the tech-pack begun in Chapter 7, using either an illustration (Figure 13.3) or chart (Figure 13.4) format. Lab 1. Have students continue to work on their final project. Here they are asked to use the template provided on page 143 of the text (or either of the templates included in Appendix F) to create/complete a detail/construction sheet for a garment of their own design. Most of the information provided will continue to be fictitious, as they are creating their own company, address, etc. The garment may or may not accompany the detail/construction sheet for verification of details and construction. If the instructor has provided a garment, then the instructor will provide the accompanying information. Remember, the author of this text suggests a Levi 501 mens jean. It may be used for class discussion while students work on a project of their own design. (Note: Levi Strauss and Co. declined to be part of this project. The author has used her industry experience to ascertain production operations.) [See Excel Appendix, Levi Detail/Construction Sheets.] To enhance the discussion, see the Sewing Operations for Constructing Jeans handout (see IG appendix). 2. Design your own detail/construction sheet. Do you prefer the chart or illustration type? What information do you believe should be added? What should be deleted? Lab 2. There are no right or wrong answers. Students detail/construction sheets should include the four basic components listed on page 139 of the text, or explain why they do not. Students may include more information and should explain why. 3. Construction in apparel production is different from that in home sewing. Write a oneto three-page report describing the difference and explaining the results of these differences. Support your findings with references. Lab 3. Students are asked to write a one- to three-page paper; this will be evaluated at the instructors discretion. There is abundant production construction information online and in

46

trade publications. Students should have knowledge of home sewing operations for comparison. To enrich the discussion on apparel production, use the Apparel Production: Overview handout (see IG appendix).

47

CHAPTER 14 THE SPECIFICATION SHEET Chapter Objectives Understand purpose and uses of a specification sheet. Identify the parts of a basic specification sheet. Recognize an industry specification sheet. Teaching Notes This chapter introduces: Specification Sheet: Overview (p. 145) Example topics a) Specification sheet i. Define it and discuss how it is used b) Elements of a specification sheet i. What are the eight basic elements? Preparing a Specification Sheet (p. 145 148) Example topics a) Heading i. Discuss and identify using Figure 14.1 Sample specification sheet on pages 147148 of the text. b) Page number i. Discuss and identify using Figure 14.1 Sample specification sheet on pages 147148 of the text. c) Garment label i. Discuss and identify using Figure 13.1 Sample specification sheet on pages 147148 of the text. d) Measurement table i. Discuss and identify using Figure 13.1 Sample specification sheet on pages 147148 of the text. e) Comments i. Discuss and identify using Figure 13.1 Sample specification sheet on pages 147148 of the text. f) Approval boxes i. Discuss and identify using Figure 13.1 Sample specification sheet on pages 147148 of the text. Industry Specification Sheet (p. 149) Example topics a) Figure 14.2 Style Source i. Discuss and identify the parts of the sheet explored in Preparing a Specification Sheet. Which of the basic components have been used, and which have not? Has any other information been provided, and why? b) Box 14.1 Industry Insiders Heather and Geoffrey Krasnov

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i. Have students read the story on page 150 of the text. As a class or in small groups, review the website of this company, which specializes in manufacturing, sourcing, and private label. ii. Have students report in written or oral presentations their findings on this company, noting the different types of sourcing and manufacturing available. c) Figure 14.3 Fit Measure Sheet i. With the students, review a typical fit measuring session using the sheet provided on page 151 of the text. Answers to Specification Sheet Lab 1. Complete your tech-pack, using the template provided (Figure 14.4) to create a specification sheet. Lab 1. Students will finish their final project with this sheet. Here they are asked to use the template provided on page 153 of the text (or the template included in Appendix F) to create/complete a specification sheet for a garment of their own design. Most of the information provided will continue to be fictitious, as they are creating their own company, address, etc. The garment may or may not accompany the specification sheet for verification of details and sizing. If the instructor has provided a garment, then the instructor will provide the accompanying information. Remember, the textbook author suggests a Levi 501 mens jean. It may be used for class discussion while students work on a project of their own design. (Note: Levi Strauss and Co. declined to be part of this project. The author has used her industry experience to ascertain size specifications.) [See Excel Appendix, Levi Spec Sheet.] The Points of Measure handout (see IG appendix) may be used as a resource to help students in completing this assignment. 2. Design your own specification sheet. Do you prefer the more detailed version or the simpler one? What information do you believe should be added? What should be deleted? Lab 2. There are no right or wrong answers. Student spec sheets should include the six basic components on pages 245246 of the text, or explain why they do not. Students may include more information and should explain why. 3. Many catalogues and online resources offer fit charts. Check at least three, and compare your results. Are the sizes the same? If not, how do they differ? Do the companys size specifications fit your body type? What recommendations, if any, would you make to improve the charts? Lab 3. Students are asked find fit charts to compare body sizing; this activity will be evaluated at the instructors discretion. There is an abundance of charting information online and in home catalogues. Answers will vary depending on the classification chosen, for example, juniors, womens, mens.

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The Fashion Production Interview

The fashion industry carries many of the same rules as interviewing for a position in any other industry. However, since the fashion industry is based on creativity, the job candidate can be more flexible in choosing the ideal interview outfit. While the traditional navy blue suit, nude stockings, navy blue pumps, and a set of pearls, may be too conservative, one should still be dressed in professional attire. Choose a nice dress or basic skirt with a modern blouse or sweater and necklace. Men should wear a nice modern suit or two-piece pant and jacket combination.

Top Ten Interview Tips 1. Be early five to ten minutes, more if there is paperwork to complete. Call if there is the slightest chance that you will be late. 2. Be well groomed First impressions dramatically affect the ultimate decision. 3. Be involved Do your homework so the interview is an active, two-way conversation. Interject inquisitive and probing insight. Do not let the interview turn into a question-and-answer period. 4. Be attentive Maintain good eye contact while sitting forward, but with good posture. 5. Be self-confident You must have confidence in yourself in order for the interviewer to have confidence in your ability to do the job. 6. Be humble Confident, yes; arrogant and overbearing, no! This is a key reason top people dont get offers. 7. Be positive Do not bad mouth previous positions, companies, or employers. No matter how well founded, this implies a negative attitude, one typical of people who do not take personal responsibility for their actions. 8. Be enthusiastic - Your enthusiasm will breed enthusiasm in the interviewer. 9. Be responsible Do not smoke or eat in the waiting room, refuse cigarettes if offered, and eat only during a luncheon interview. 10. Be gracious Use a FIRM handshake for both men and women.

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Top Ten Questions to Ask 1. If I was hired, what would be my top priority? (You will want to know if you have the experience for the job, or if you even want the job.) Give examples of your accomplishments in this area and ask what training the company offers. 2. If I was hired, what would be my first project or production goal? (This will tell you if production goals are realistic and attainable.) 3. Where might the position lead, if I perform well? (You will want to know your future career opportunities.) 4. You could impress them by knowing the characteristics, personal and technical, a person must possess to be successful in this position. As a follow-up, ask if they are looking for any other traits in their employees. 5. What criteria are used performance reviews? 6. What are the most critical aspects of this position? 7. What are the company values; do you have a mission statement? 8. Whats the most important thing I can do to help or learn within the first 90 days of my employment? 9. Are there any areas in which your team could use a little polishing? 10. When top performers leave the company, why do they leave, and what is the average length of employment with your company? Two Questions to Avoid 1. DO NOT ASK about compensation and benefits Especially during the first interview. If you are asked about compensation, simply respond with I am currently earning $$$$$ and would expect a reasonable increase to make a move. 2. DO NOT ASK the hours of business, about lunch breaks or vacation time. All compensation and benefit questions can be addressed if and when an offer is forthcoming.
Adapted from Regina Coopers article, Interviewing for a Career in Fashion - Terms of Interest to the Fashion Industry http://www.apparelsearch.com/Terms/I/Interviewing_For_Career_In_Fashion.htm

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Article I.
Article II. Article III. Article V. Article VII. Article IX. Article XI. Article XIII. insurance) Article XV. Article XVII. etc.) Article XIX. Article XXI. Article XXIII. etc.) Article XXV. Article XXVII. Article XXIX. Article XXXI. 1. YOUR INCOME

Simple Monthly Budget

a. Take-home pay (Wages and tips) b. Additional income (Allowance, interest, etc.) TOTAL INCOME 2. YOUR EXPENSES a. Tuition b. Housing (Dorm, Rent, Mortgage, plus taxes and

Article IV. Article VI. Article VIII. Article X. Article XII. Article XIV.

$ $ $ $ $ $

c. Utilities d. Subscriptions (Cable, Internet, phone, gym, magazines,

Article XVI. Article XVIII.

$ $

e. Groceries and food (Dining hall, eating out, snacks, etc.) f. Medical (Co-pays, prescriptions, etc.) g. Travel and entertainment (Car, bus, expenses, movies,

Article XX. Article XXII. Article XXIV.

$ $ $

h. Discretionary (Personal care, laundry, hobbies) i. Debt payments (Credit cards, current loans, etc.) j. Custom (Clothing and expenses not covered) k. Savings

Article XXVI.

Article XXVIII. $ Article XXX. Article XXXII. $ $

Article XXXIII. TOTAL EXPENSES Article XXXV. 3. YOUR BOTTOM LINE

Article XXXIV. $ Article XXXVI. Article XXXVIII. $

Article XXXVII. INCOME MINUS EXPENSES

Article XXXIX. Adapted from Money Under 30, A Really Simple Budget Worksheet by David Weliver, www.moneyunder30.com/really-simple-budget-worksheet

52

Writing a Business Plan

The body of a business plan can be divided into four distinct sections: 1) Description of the business 2) Marketing 3) Finances 4) Management Elements of a Business Plan
1. Cover sheet 2. Statement of purpose 3. Table of contents I. The Business A. Description of business B. Marketing C. Competition D. Operating procedures F. Personnel G. Business insurance II. Financial Data A. Loan applications B. Capital equipment and supply list C. Balance sheet D. Breakeven analysis E. Pro-forma income projections (profit & loss statements) F. Three-year summary G. Detail by month, first year H. Detail by quarters, second and third years I. Assumptions upon which projections were based J. Pro-forma cash flow III. Supporting Documents A. Principals tax returns for the last three years; personal financial statement (all banks have these forms) B. For franchised businesses, a copy of franchise contract and all supporting documents provided by the franchisor C. Copy of proposed lease or purchase agreement D. Copy of licenses and other legal documents E. Copy of rsums of all principals F. Copies of letters of intent from suppliers, etc. U.S. Small Business Administration, Programs and Services to Help you Start, Grow andSucceed,www.sba.gov/smallbusinessplanner/plan/writeabusinessplan/SERV_WRRITI NGBUSPLAN.html , accessed on 9 July 2010.

53

Answer Key Order Fabric For Duplicate Samples Check Production Samples and Patterns To Ensure Fit Ensure Patterns are Graded To be Completed on Time Tech-Packs and Spec Sheets are Started To update and send with final orders

54

55

CUTTING TICKET
Fashion Design Co. Fashion Avenue, New York, NY 10001 Tel: 212-555-2025 Fax: 212-555-2026
PAGE : 1

CUT NUMBER START DATE IN WAREHOUSE

201001 08/01/2010 09/01/2010

USE THIS AREA FOR NOTES SPECIFIC TO THE CUT

STYLE # 1001 Navy blue Purple

4
10

6
10

8
20

10
20

12
20

14
20

16
10

18
10

TOTAL
120

10

10

10

10

60

TOTAL GARMENTS

15

15

30

30

30

30

15

15

180

Adapted from Francis Harder, Fashion for Profit, 8th Edition, Harder Publications, Rolling Hills Estate, CA, February 2008, Cutting Ticket Appendix, page 300.

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How to Source or Locate Contractors

Sourcing agents may access the following to find new vendors: 1. Obtain recommendations from industry contacts. 2. Join trade groups and associations such as the: a. American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) b. American Apparel Producers Network (AAPN) c. International Association of Clothing Designers and Executives (IACDE) 3. Attend sourcing fairs such as Material World: www.materialworld.com 4. Review publications such as The Apparel Production Sourcebook by Fashiondex. 5. Check classified ads in trade papers such as Daily News Record: www.dnrnews.com or Apparel Magazine: www.apparelmag.com 6. Check the Internet for organizations that will help locate contractor specialties such as the: a. American Apparel Producers Network (AAPN) www.usawear.org and www.usawear.org/pattern b. Garment Industry Development Corporation (GIDC) www.gidc.org c. National Association for the Sewn Products Industry www.seams.org

Adapted from The Cutting Edge Apparel Business Guide, Production 2006, Cornell University http://courses.cit.cornell.edu/cuttingedge/production/08_production.htm, accessed on 12 July 2010.

57

Calculating Production Labor Cost

This incorporates the Standard Allowed Minutes (SAM) system, which works best with the Progressive Bundling System (PBS). A typical SAM is .07 or 120 per operations; the compensation has been set for all operations at $.070 (which is $8.50 120 operations per hour).

1. Add up an employees Total Piece Rate Ticket (a ticket is given or clicked for each operation) to determine their Total Piece Rate Dollars. 2. Calculate the employees Total Hours Worked for the week. 3. Divide the Total Piece Rate Dollars -------------------------------- = RATE Total Hours Worked 4. Multiply any Overtime Hours Worked by RATE to determine Overtime Pay. 5. Add the employees Total Piece Rate Dollars to his or her Overtime Pay to determine a Gross Pay Total Piece Rate Dollars + Overtime Pay = Gross Pay Example: Employee Bill Moyers is a piece goods worker at J. Benson and Sons, Inc. 1. Moyers Total Piece Rate Tickets, when added together, equal $395 Total Piece Rate Dollars. 2. Moyers Total Hours Worked equal 46 hours. 3. Take the Total Piece Rate Dollars Divide by the Total Hours Worked Determine Rate target with $395 46 = $8.58 Moyers was almost exactly on his SAM hours 4. Moyers had 6 Overtime Hours Worked a scheduled 40-hour week. Multiply by his Rate ( rate is .5 x $8.50= $4.29) Determine Overtime Pay 5. Add Total Piece Rate Dollars To Overtime Pay To Determine Gross Pay $395 + $25.74 $ 420.74 6 x 4.29 $25.74

Adapted from Ruth E. Glock and Grace I. Kunz, Apparel Manufacturing; Sewn Product Analysis, PrenticeHall, Inc., 1995, p. 360 and Francis Harder, Fashion for Profit, 8th Edition, pages 138 and 139.

58

Calculating Costs for United States Piece Rate Workers

Example: J. Benson and Sons, Inc. Total Direct Labor Costs include all factory employees involved in cutting, sewing, finishing, and pressing. It is determined by combining the number of operators, hours per week, weeks per year, and average hourly earnings. 1. Number of operators in plant 2. Number of hour worked per week 3. Weeks worked per year (plant is closed two weeks a year) 125 40 48

4. Average hourly earnings $9.00 _______________________________________________________________ Total Annual Direct Labor (1 x 2 x 3 x 4) $2,160,000

Total Standard Labor Costs is compensation for producing the product line. It is determined by a combination of the percent of plant efficiency and the weighted average base rate pay. Note: the number operators, hours, and weeks worked are also included in the equation. 5. Percent efficiency 90%

6. Weighted average base rate pay $8.50 _______________________________________________________________ Total Annual Standard Labor (1 x 2 x 3 x 5 x 6) $1,836,000

Excess Cost Percentage equals the total annual direct labor costs minus the annual standard labor costs divided by the annual standard labor costs. These costs include compensation for time spent attending meetings, as a result of broken machines, taking inventory; in other words, nonprofit situations. Excess costs should be kept to a minimum and should be budgeted as close to zero as possible. 7. Excess cost percentage (4 6 6 ) 17.6%

Adapted from Ruth E. Glock and Grace I. Kunz, Apparel Manufacturing; Sewn Product Analysis, Prentice-Hall, Inc., 1995, pp 294295.

59

Vendor Name: Company Name Address City, State, ZIP Code Phone Number Fax Number E-Mail Address Bill To: Company Name Address City, State, ZIP Code Phone Number Fax Number E-Mail Address Sales Rep Code Order Number

Packing Slip
Date Shipped Order Number

Ship To: Company Name Address City, State, ZIP Code Phone Number Fax Number E-Mail Address Ship Via Tracking Number

Product Number

Quantity Ordered

Quantity Shipped

Quantity Back Ordered

Product/s Description

Shipped By: Number of Packages Total Weight

Received By: Order Complete

Comments:

Adapted from www.FreeBusinessForms.com, Accessed 28 July, 2010

60

Finding a Career in Fashion

The following websites may be good resources for locating position in the fashion industry. They are not all exclusive and may not remain current.

Womans Wear Daily Careers www.wwd.com Style Careers www.stylecareers.com Apparel Search www.apparelsearch.com Yahoo! Hotjobs http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/job-search CareerBuilder www.careerbuilder.com Monster http://jobsearch.monster.com Fashion Jobs http://us.fashionjobs.com/jobs/index.php Fashion Job Central www.creativejobscentral.com/fashion-jobs/ Fashion Jobs Today www.fashionjobstoday.com/ Fashion Job Search www.fashionjobsearch.com Well Threaded www.wellthreaded.com/ The Fashion Tool www.thefashiontool.com/ 24Seven www.24seventalent.com/jobs/ Fashion Career Center www.fashioncareercenter.com/jobboard/ Clothing Industry Jobs www.clothingindustryjobs.com/ Vault Career Intelligence www.vault.com

61

Basic Illustrator Tutorial for Tracing a Photo/Image

1. First place a photo in Layer 1 by File > Place or Copy & Paste from clipboard. Doubleclick on Layer 1 to change the Layer Options. Set Dim Images to: 30% and lock layer. 2. Start tracing by making a new layer (Layer 2). Hold down the Ctrl key and click on the eye icon of Layer 2 to view Layer 2 in Outline mode. Use the Pen Tool and start tracing the basic features of the image. While you are tracing, there are some shortcut keys you should know in order to work faster:

Ctrl+[ = Send Backward (This will send object back 1 step.) Ctrl+] = Bring Forward (This will bring object front 1 step.) Ctrl+Shift+[ = Send to Back (This will send object all the way to the back.) Ctrl+Shift+] = Bring to Front (This will bring object all the way to the front.) Ctrl+F = Paste in Front (This will paste object in front with same position.)

3. Make shadows by drawing a new path as shown (top). Then Copy the base path of the image and Paste in Front. Select the copied base path and the new path; open your Pathfinder, Alt-click on Intersect shape areas. Use the same technique from the previous step and make all shadow paths for the overall illustration. Remember to use Ctrl+C for copy and Ctrl+F to paste the object in front. 4. Fill in the base color for image. 5. To show shadow gradients, fill the shadow path of the image with a Gradient and select Multiply for Blending Mode. Select the other shadow paths and use the Eyedropper Tool to copy the gradient fill of the main shadow path. Continue this technique for other parts of the image.

Adapted from Ndesign Studios, Illustrator Tutorials, www.ndesign-studio.com/tutorials, accessed 27 July 2010

62

United States Textile Mills Avondale Mills Incorporated

PO Box 1109, Monroe, GA 30655-1109, United States Phone: (770)267-2226, Fax: (770)267-5196

Manufacturer of yarn, denim, woven fabrics and specialty textiles, they makes apparel fabrics such as: cotton, cotton blends, dyed denim and dyed woven cotton, dyed and unfinished cotton and specialty fabrics. Briggs Textiles
543 Rockland Rd., P.O. Box 8001 Lake Bluff, IL 60044 Phone: (847)-615-8500, Fax: (847)-615-8501

Manufacturers & converters of cotton & synthetic textiles, they custom developed fabrics for specialized applications: industrial, medical & apparel. Canton flannels: 6-14 oz. Weights, double woven, narrow & wide widths, dobbies, laminated, dyed. Cotton outing flannels: 100 percent cotton soft-filled sheeting, broad range of colors & finishes; various weights and widths. Bottom weight twills: 100 percent cotton, 60 inches, various shades, blended fabrics, upholstery fabrics, cotton drills, duck, marquisettes, ninon, print cloth, sateens, sheeting, greige goods & finished goods. Burlington Industries Group (owned by WL Ross & Co./International Textile Group) Greensborough, NC Manufacturers of wool worsted and worsted-blend fabrics, and waterproof synthetics for the apparel market. Carolina Apparel Group
Highway 52 South Wadesboro, North Carolina 28170-2950 Phone: 704-694-6544 Fax: 704-694-6548

Manufacturer body-size circular knit fabrics and thermal underwear.

Cone Mills Corporation

804 Green Valley Road Greensboro, North Carolina, 27408 Phone: (336) 379-6220

The Corporations principal activity is textile manufacturing. It operates in three business segments: denims, commission finishing and decorative fabrics. The denim segment comprises of denim and piece-dyed bottomweight fabrics, which are also referred to as khaki. The decorative fabrics segment includes the design and distribution of decorative fabrics for the home furnishings industry. The third segment is non fabric.

63

Cranston Mills
2 Worcester Road Webster, MA 01570 Phone: 1-800-876-2756

Makers of a wide variety of distinctive fabrics for sewing, VIP by Cranston; crafting, Quilting Treasures; and decorating needs, Cranston Home. Edley Associates, Inc.
550 West Old Country Rd. Suite 309 Hicksville, NY 11801 Phone: (516) 933-7444, Fax: (516) 933-7555

Manufacturers of silk and cotton tulle, net, and tricot organza and petal fabrics and yarn, and knit dye and finish in their own factories. All of their fabrics are available as piece goods, rolled on tubes, doubled and rolled on boards, slit into spools of varying widths, as ribbons both wired and unwired, as die cut circles and as custom cut sheets. Foss Manufacturing Co., LLC
11 Merrill Industrial Drive P.O. Box 5000 Hampton, NH 03843-5000 USA Tel: (603) 929-6000, Fax: (603) 929-6010

Manufactures of nonwoven fabrics made from Eco-fi, 100 percent post-consumer recycled plastic bottles. The felted fabrics are suitable for home, school, camp, and holiday crafts and come in classic, plush, glitter, and embossed finishes.

Fabric Trends International

55 Lathrop Road Extension Plainfield, CT 06374-1965 Phone: (860) 564-8100

Manufacturers of stock patterned and custom designed air- and heat-embossed, crushed greige and colored flocked fabrics for fashion, automotive, furnishing, and upholstery.

FiberLok, Inc.
811 Stockton Avenue PO Box 1727 Ft Collins, CO 80522-1727 Phone: (970) 221-1200

Manufactures of fiber-coated flocked graphics from custom designed artwork for garment, clothing accessories, carpet, and automotive applications.

Fifield, Inc.
72 Sharp St., Ste. C-4, Hingham, MA 02043

64

Phone: (781) 335-7060

Custom manufactures and developers of standard flock coating of textile fabrics for garments and decoration; also, imitation leathers and velvets. Malden Mills Industries
46 Stafford Street Lawrence, Massachusetts 01841 Phone: (508) 685-6341, Fax: (508) 975-2595

Manufacture high-tech fabrics, some made partially of recycled plastic. The company makes Polartec all-season synthetic fabrics for use primarily in apparel and footwear. Milliken & Company Inc.
920 Milliken Road PO Box 1926 Spartanburg, South Carolina 29304

Milliken makes a variety of fabric, yarn and chemical products for apparel as well as for goods used by goods astronauts, major league baseball players and homes and businesses around the globe. They also produce finished fabrics for rugs and carpets; they are one of the worlds largest textile companies.

National Textile Industries

231 59th Street Brooklyn, NY, 11220 Phone: (718) 439 4800

Manufactures of broadcloth and trimmings they convert poly cotton broadcloth for every imaginable vendor from home furnishings to medical products. They also manufacture poplin and waffle pique fabrics to meet the ever-increasing needs of the manufacturer.

R.B. Pamplin Corporation/Mount Vernon Mills

P. O. Box 100 503 S. Main Street Mauldin, SC 29662 Phone: (864) 688-7100

Manufactures of apparel fabrics such as denim; piece dyed fabrics (including flame retardant fabrics) for career apparel, military uniforms, sportswear and work wear Brentex- pocketing; waistbands and interlinings, greige apparel fabrics; industrial fabrics. They also produce consumer products such as linens and specialty chemicals for personal care and painting needs.

SAFE Denim
By American Cotton Growers P.O. Box 430 Littlefield, TX 79339 Phone: (806) 385-4129

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Manufacture denim that shares their vision of cloth that is Sustainable, American, and Friendly to the Environment. They produce a variety of styles including stretch, ring-spun, slub yarn, and smooth open-end, in indigo, black, and natural. SAFE Denim is a member of the Plains Cotton Cooperative Association. Southern Converters 309 Dividend Drive Peachtree City, GA 30269-1907 Phone: (770) 486-7608 Manufacturers of a broad variety of textile products for use in commercial laundry, filtration, and other industrial applications.

Springs Industries
227 Thorn Ave. Building B, Box B-8 Orchard Park, NY 14127 Phone: (716) 662-8002, Fax: (716) 662-8004

Makers of baby bedding, fabrics, hardware, infant apparel, and window blinds, the company produces private label items for Wal-Mart and Target. Woolrich Woolen Mill
2 Mill Street P.O.Box 138 Woolrich, PA 17779 Fax: 570-769-2483

Manufactures fine woven wools for apparel, blankets, gifts and home furnishings. They are Americas oldest wool mill since 1830.

W.L. Gore & Associates /Gore-tex

295 Blue Ball Road Elkton, MD 21921 Phone: 1 800-GORE-TEX (467-3839)

While best known for their GORE-TEX fabrics, all their products are distinguished in their markets. Their technologies and fluoropolymer expertise are unsurpassed.
Adapted from Apparel Search.com, Fabric Mills in the United States of America (USA) www.apparelsearch.com/world_Clothing_Industry/United_States/Fabric_Mills_USA.htm, Avondale Mills Incorporated, http://goliath.ecnext.com/coms2/product-compint-0000107671-page.html, Briggs Textiles, http://furniture.kellysearch.com/profile/briggs+textile/us/il/lake+bluff/60044/900917344 , Burlington Industries Group, http://www.itg-global.com/, Carolina Apparel Group, http://carolina-apparel-group-inc.sbcontract.com/profile.htm, Cone Mills Corporation, http://www.business.com/directory/retail_and_consumer_services/home_and_garden/fabrics/cone_mills_cor poration/profile/, Cranston Mills, http://www.cranstonvillage.com/fabric/default.aspx, Edley Associates, Inc. http://www.edley.com/, Foss Manufacturing Co., LLC ,

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http://www.fossmfg.com/cu_Inquiryform.cfm, Fabric Trends International http://www.manta.com/c/mmsjzl7/fabric-trends-intl, FiberLok, Inc. http://www.fiberlok.com/, Fifield, Inc. http://www.textilesource.com/textile-fabric-search/fifield-inc-usa.html, Malden Mills Industries http://www.fundinguniverse.com/company-histories/Malden-Mills-Industries-Inc-Company-History.html, Milliken & Company Inc. http://www.milliken.com/hr/wwwmlkn.nsf/WebHomeFrameset?Open, http://www.milliken.com/85256B12004D4A0D/16552FFA2A9E69BF852568D70065B41C/98F8B8B17FA 0748285256EB400583603/$File/Standards_Guide.pdf, National Textile Industries http://furniture.kellysearch.com/profile/national+textile+industries/us/ny/brooklyn/11220/300002898, http://www.cottonusasourcing.com/CompanyDetailEn.cfm?itemnumber=2867, R.B. Pamplin Corporation/Mount Vernon Mills, http://www.cottonusasourcing.com/CompanyDetailEn.cfm?itemnumber=2867, SAFE Denim, http://www.safedenim.com/c-6-smooth-open-end-denim.aspx, Southern Converters, http://www.manta.com/c/mm8yzwj/southern-converters#, Springs Industries, http://favoritefabrics.homestead.com/contact_us.html, Woolrich Woolen Mill, http://www.woolrichfabrics.com/mysql/index.asp, W.L. Gore & Associates /Gore-tex, http://www.gore.com/en_xx/aboutus/ , Accessed on 4 August 2010

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Garment Components
The following list provides resources for researching garment components: Adhesives (garment use) Bows Bra (Brassiere) Components Braids / Tassels / Cords Buckles Buttons - Snaps Elastics Epaulets Fabric Fibers Feather and Down Handbag Components Heat Transfer (garment use) Hot Fix Transfer (garment use) Interlining Lace Lanyards Leather Narrow Fabrics Patches Reflective Tape Rhinestones Ribbon (garment use) Rivets Rosette Satin Tapes Shoe Components Shoulder Pads Shoulder Straps Sleeve Head Rolls Snaps Spaghetti Strapping Tapes Thread Toggles Trimming (multiple types) TPU Elastic Reverie Tape Twill Tape Velcro Yarn Zippers

Adapted from Apparel Search, Clothing Components & Trim for factories producing Clothes and Fashion Accessories, www.apparelsearch.com/components.htm, accessed on 21 July 2010.

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Label/Packing Components
The following list provides resources for researching label/packing components:

Adhesives (packing use) Bag Materials Barcode Labels Care Labels Garment Bags Hangers Hangtags Heat Transfers (packing use) Hook Rider Hot Fix Transfers (packing use) Jet-Clips (packaging clips) Labels Pins Plastic Staple Fasteners Price tickets PVC Labels Ribbon (packing use) Shirt Packing Materials Size Strips Stickers Tags

Adapted from Apparel Search, Clothing Components & Trim for factories producing Clothes and Fashion Accessories, www.apparelsearch.com/components.htm, accessed on 21 July 2010.

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Sewing Operations for Constructing Jeans

Note: According to The History of Blue Jeans by Vaunt Design Group, an Internet consulting company there are 37 separate sewing operations involved in making a pair of Levi's 501 jeans; however, a typical pair of jeans more likely includes the following:

OPERATION
1. 2. 3. 4. Assemble front pockets Assemble coin pocket Attach coin to right front pocket Attach pockets to front body/topstitch

STITCH TYPE
(Lockstitch 301) (Lockstitch 301) (Double Chain Stitch 401) (Lockstitch 301) (Double Chain Stitch 401) (Overlock 516) (Double Chain Stitch 401) (Interlock 406) (Double Chain Stitch 401) (Lockstitch 301) (Lockstitch 301) (Double Chain Stitch 401) (Overlock 516; if serged) (Double Chain Stitch 401; if felled) (Double Chain Stitch 401) (Bartack 301) (Buttonhole 404) (Lockstitch 301) (Bartack 301) (Lockstitch 301)

5. Sew and assemble fly/placket 6. Sew front crotch seams together 7. Assemble belt loops 8. Assemble back pockets/topstitch 9. Attach to back body 10. Attach back yoke pieces to body 11. Sew back body pieces together 12. Join leg seams together f & b* 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. Assemble and attach waistband* *Add size or care label into seam as needed Attach belt loops Sew and cut buttonhole Attach buttons Attach rivets Hem leg openings Add bartacks Add labels

Adapted from Docstoc, A Project on Jeans, www.docstoc.com/docs/22755370/projecton-jeans, and The Fashion Bible, www.beisselneedles.com/downloads/fashionbible.pdf, accessed on 26 July 2010.

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Apparel Production: Overview

Apparel production begins with a designers creation, often the sketch. The sketch is converted into a pattern, a step usually done with the aid of a computer. After a sample pattern is made, a sample garment is made for the designer. Sample garments made for production must be fitted in order to receive approval. Size specifications are written. Once production samples are approved, production patterns are created and markers made. The garment is sent into production with a cutting ticket and the technical package. Once markers are created, the fabric is spread in many layers and cutgenerally with an electric knife or laser. Once cut, the fabric is ready for sewing by machine operators and will follow the PBS, MPS, or UPS operating systems. Garments will go to finishing for trimming and pressing and any other hand- sewing operations. Final tagging will take place. Final inspections will take place, although inspectors work in all stages of production. Bagging, boxing, and any other packaging will take place. Garments are ready for shipping.

Fashion Infomat, Research, Fabrics, Apparel and Textile Production, http://www.infomat.com/research/infre0000249.html, accessed 29, July 2010

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Points of Measure:

Courtesy of Complete Guide to Size Specification and Technical Design, 2nd Edition, Fairchild Books, New York, by Paula J. Myers-McDevitt.

Sources for Measuring Garments

Complete Guide to Size Specification, 2nd Edition by Paula J. Myers-McDevitt Fairchild Books, New York The Apparel Design and Production Handbook (A Technical Reference) The Fashiondex The Spec Manual, 2nd Edition by Michele Wesen Bryant and Diane Demers Fairchild Books, New York Technical Sourcebook for Designers by Jaeil Lee and Camille Steen Fairchild Books, New York
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