A textile is any kind of woven, knitted, knotted or tufted cloth, or a nonwoven fabric.

Textile also refers to the yarns, threads and wools that can be spun, woven, tufted, tied and used to manufacture cloth.The range of fibers has increased in the last 100 years. The first synthetics were made in the 1920s and 1930s. Textiles can be made from a variety of materials. The following is a partial list of the materials that can be used to make textiles. Animal origin

Alpacca Angora rabbit hair Camel hair Cashmere Mohair Silk Vicuana hair Wool : divided into woollen and worsted

Vegetable

Bark cloth has various uses, and is used in sheets. Coir: the fibre from coconuts. Cotton Grass, rush and straw Hemp (mostly used in rope making) Jute Kapok Linen, made from flax Nettle: processed in a similar manner to flax. Ramie Seaweed: a water soluble fibre (alginate) is produced. This is used as a holding fibre in the production of certain textiles: when the cloth is finished the alginate is dissolved, leaving an open area. Sisal

Derived from plant products

Paper

Mineral

Asbestos: now has very limited uses. Glass fibers can be used in the manufacture of textiles for insulation and other purposes. Metal fibre, metal wire and metal foil have some uses in textiles, either on their own or with other materials

A vast range of man-made fibers can be used in textile manufacture, including:

Acrylic fiber Lurex Spandex, tactel, lycra and other 'stretch' fabrics Nylon fiber Polyester fiber Polypropylene (comes under various common trade names such as Olefin or Herculon) Rayon fiber

WAYS OF MAKING TEXTILES

Braiding/Plaiting

Crochet (Done usually by hand.) Embroidery (threads which are added to the surface of a finished textile.) Felt (fibres are matted together to produce a cloth.) Knitting (By hand or on knitting machines.) Knotting, including macrame: used in making nets. Lace (again both hand made and machine made.) Pile fabrics

(carpets and some rugs)

Velvet, velveteen, plush fabrics and similar have a secondary set of yarns which provide

a pile. Weaving (the cloth is prepared on a loom, of which there are a number of types. Some weaving is still done by hand, but the vast majority is machine made.)

Weaving Basics The process of producing a fabric by interlacing warp and weft threads is known as weaving. The machine used for weaving is known as weaving machine or loom. Weaving is an art that has been practiced for thousands of years. The earliest application of weaving dates back to the Egyptian civilization. In order to interlace wrap and weft threads to produce a fabric, the basic mechanisms necessary on any type of looms are Primary, Secondary and Auxiliary mechanisms. Weaving is the most basic process in which two different sets of yarns or threads are interlaced with each other to form a fabric or cloth. One of these sets is called warp which is the lengthwise yarn running from the back to the front of the loom. The other set of crosswise yarns are the filling which are called the weft or the woof.Therefore Weaving loom motions can be broadly catagorised as follows: Primary motions to produce woven fabric: 1. Shedding 2. Picking 3. Beating-up Secondary motions 1. Let-off 2. Take-up 3. Weft selection Auxilliary motions 1. Warp stop motions 2. Warp protectors

3. Weft stop motions 4. Weft relenishment Warp protectors are only necessary in looms which use a free flying media to insert the weft, such as a shuttle or a projectline. They stop the loom before beat-up can occur if the media fails to be arrested in the correct position after it has traversed the loom. After preparation, the warp yarn is drawn in through the eyes of the heald mounted on the required shafts (harnesses). Primary Motions Shedding process It is a primary motion in weaving that does separation of warp threads, according to pattern, to allow for weft insertion or picking prior to beating. It is the mechanism that raises certain harnesses above the others. Yarns that pass through the heald eyes in those harnesses are raised above that are not controlled by the raised harnesses. In this way, a sheet of warp yarns is up, and a sheet of yarns is down. The space between two yarn sheets is called shed.

Open shedding

It is a method of forming a shed in which, between the insertion of one weft pick and the next, the only warp threads moved are those that are required to change position from the upper to the lower line of the shed, or vice versa.

Semi open shedding

It is a method of forming a shed in which threads, which are to remain in the top shed line for the next pick, are lowered a short distance and then raised again. The other threads are raised and lowered as in open shedding. Closed shedding

It is a method of forming a shed in which all warp threads are brought to the same level after the insertion of each pick of weft. They are of two types i.e., bottom closed and centre closed sheddings. The difference between them is that the terms bottom and centre indicate the position of the warp threads when at rest.

Picking (weft insertion) Picking is the second operation of the weaving process. After the shed has been formed, the length of weft is inserted through the shed. Beating up Beating-up is the third operation of the weaving cycle. As soon as a weft yarn is inserted, the reed pushes or beats-up the weft to the fell of the cloth. The fell of the cloth is the edge which is nearest

to the reed as the cloth is being woven. In other words,beating-up occurs when the reed pushes the newly inserted weft against the fell of the cloth. Temple is a device used in weaving to hold fabric at the fell as near as possible to the width of the warp in the reed. Secondary Motions Let-off (warpcontrol) motion This is the motion which delivers warp to the weaving area at the required rate and at a suitable constant tension by unwinding it from a flanged tube known as the weavers beam.

Positive let off motion

A mechanism controlling the rotation of the beam on a weaving or other fabric forming machine where the beam is driven mechanically.

Negative let off motion

A mechanism controlling the rotation of the beam on a weaving or other fabric forming machine where the beam is pulled round by warp against a braking force applied to beam. Take Up (cloth control) motion This is the motion that withdraws fabric from the weaving area at a constant rate. It ensures that the required pick spacing is maintained, and then winds it onto the cloth roller.

Positive take up motion

It is the motion in which the take up roller is gear driven, a change wheel or variable-throw pawl and ratchet being provided to allow the required rate to be obtained, so determining the pick spacing.

Negative take up motion

It is the motion in which the take up roller is rotated by means of a weight or spring, this roller only rotates when the force applied by the weight or spring is greater than the warp lay tension in the fabric. The take up rate is controlled by the size of the force applied by the weight or spring and/or the warp tension. Auxilliary Motions To get high productivity and good quality of fabric, additional mechanisms, called auxilliary mechanisms, are added to a plain power loom.The auxilliary mechanisms are useful but not absolutely essential. That is why they are called the auxilliary mechanisms. These are listed below.1. Warp protector mechanism 2. Weft stop motion 3. Temples 4. Brake 5. Warp stop motion (Predominantly found in automatic looms)

1. Warp protector mechanism - The warp protector mechanism will stop the loom if the shuttle get strapped between the top and bottom layers of the shed. It thus prevents excessive damage to the warp threads, reed wires and shuttle 2. Weft stop motion - The object of the weft stop motion is to stop the loom when a weft thread breaks or gets exhausted. This motion helps to avoid cracks in a fabric. 3. Temples - The function of the temples is to grip the cloth and hold it at the same width as the warp in the reed, before it is taken up. 4. Brake - The brake stops the loom immediately whenever required. The weaver uses it to stop the loom to repair broken ends and picks. 5. Warp stop motion - The object of the warp stop motion is to stop the loom immediately when a warp thread breaks during the weaving proce.

Woven Fabric Patterns

In the simplest weaving arrangement, alternate warp yarns are over or under the shuttle as it moves in one direction and the warp yarn positions are reversed for the return stroke of the shuttle. This weave can be made on a loom with only two harnesses. In other arrangements, several warp yarns may be moved upward or downward together, or several filling picks may take place before the warp yarns change position. Classification of Weave Patterns 1. Basic/Simple Weaves a. b. c. Plain Weave Twill Weave Satin Weave 2. Compound/Complex/Novelty Weaves . a. b. c. d. e. Dobby Weave Jacquard Weave Double Cloth & Double Weave Pique Pile Fabrics Surface Figure Weaves

BASIC WEAVES Plain Weave

Plain weave, also called taffeta. Filling yarns pass over and under alternate warp yarns. Other plain weaves are broadcloth, muslin, batiste, percale, seersucker, organdy, voile, and tweed. Simplest weave requiring a 2 harness loom, formed by yarns at right angles whereby each warp yarn interlaces with each weft yarn Properties: least expensive to produce, reversible unless surface design, wrinkles more, firm & wears well, less absorbent, abrasion resistant, used as background for printing/embroidery

Rib Weave fabrics: Rib effect is produced by using heavy yarns in the filling direction or by more warp than filling yarns per inch. Eg Bengaline, ottoman, faille, poplin, broadcloth, taffeta. Basket Weave fabrics: Basket weave is made by treating two or more yarns as one in either the warp or weft or both the directions and interlacing them in plain weave. It is not as firm as plain weave, have more yarn slippage, shrinks easily. Eg 2X1, 2X2, 2X4, 3X2, 4X4. Oxford cloth is 2X1 & monk cloth is 4X4. Flat duck, hopsacking, panama are other examples.

Twill Weave

Twill weave. Filling yarns pass over two warp yarns and under a third, and repeat the sequence for the width of the fabric. The next filling yarn repeats the sequence

but shifts one warp yarn sideways, creating a diagonal pattern. Herringbone, serge, jersey, foulard, gabardine, worsted cheviot, and drill are twill weaves.

Each warp or weft yarn floats across two or more weft or warp yarns with a progression of interlacing by one to the right or to the left, forming a distinct diagonal line or wale. Direction of diagonal may be formed from right to left, from left to right or a combination of both. Soil resistant, softer & pliable, good wrinkle recovery, durable & wears well. The direction of the twill on the back of the cloth is opposite to the twill line on the face. 3 harness are required for twill weave.

Right Hand Twill - diagonals run upwards to the right Left Hand Twill - diagonals run upwards to the left. Balanced Twill same number of warp pass over filling yarns. It is reversible. 2X2, 4X4 Unbalanced Twill have uneven number of warp or filling yarn. It has a right or wrong. Broken Twill combines right or left hand twills Herringbone Twill a series of inverted Vs are formed resembling the backbone of the herringbone fish. Most commonly used in suiting fabrics. Twill Angles according to the angles of the diagonal line, Regular twill - 45 Reclining twill with smaller angles, Steep twill with larger angles. E.g.: denim, herringbone, hounds-tooth

Satin weave

Satin weave. Filler yarns pass over a number of warp yarns, four in this illustration, and under the fifth. Damask, sateen, and crepe satin are satin weaves. Exposed yarns reflect light and give the weave its sheen.

Each warp/ filling yarn floats over 4 filling/ warp yarns & interlaces with 5th filling/ warp yarn, with progression of interlacing by 2 to right or left (warp faced/ weft faced). Luster (long floats),

firm, durable (yarns packed closely together), pliable, wrinkle resistant, yarn slippage. Satin is warp faced. Sateen is weft faced. 5 harness are required for satin weave.

Compound/Complex/Novelty Weaves/ Figure/ Decorative weave Dobby Weave Small figured designs (floral or geometrical) woven repeatedly throughout the fabric, produced by a combination of two or more basic weaves, using a dobby attachment on the loom. Weaving pattern controlled by a plastic tape with punched holes that control the raising & lowering of warp yarns. It uses up to 32 harness. Jacquard Weave Characteristics: highly intricate large designs using coloured yarns and multi-weaves produced on loom with jacquard attachment. Incorporates all 3 basic weaves & their combination. Each warp yarn is controlled separately by punched cards that are laced together in a continuous strip. Are more expensive. Used for home furnishing, apparel, elaborate & decorative fabrics. Eg Brocade, Damask, tapestry, brocatelle, matelasse Surface Figure /Extra Yarn Weaves Extra warp or weft yarn introduced in fabric to produce designs at regular intervals. Between 2 motifs, extra yarn floats across back of fabric.

Clipped / unclipped Spot embroidery like design are achieved through either extra warp or weft yarn. Long floats on the back when cut is called Clipped Spot & when uncut Unclipped Spot. Swivel - contains extra filling yarns. In these weave the extra yarn is interlaced with the background at different places to avoid pulling. These are more stronger than Spot weave. Lappet contains extra warp yarns.

Pique Lightweight to heavyweight cotton fabric with a raised woven design. Lengthwise wales or cords on the face of fabric (formed by extra warp yarns) that are held in place by crosswise weft floats on the back of fabric. Extra warp yarns (stuffer yarns) do not show on face of fabric. They are not interwoven but laid under the cords to emphasize quilted effect. Made on dobby or jacquard loom. Eg waffle, huck toweling, granite, honeycomb, bedcord, pique Double Cloth They are made with 3, 4 or 5 sets of yarn. Two fabrics are woven together on the same loom, one above the other & laced together with an extra set of warp or weft yarns called binder yarns (5 sets

of yarns). Pile fabrics are commonly prepared by this method. Produces a variety of fabrics, reversible, stable, may have different color or design on the two sides. Used for upholstery, drapery and heavy apparels.

Other Special Weaves Crepe Weave Crinkled or pebbly surface. Irregular, indistinct pattern utilizing both plain and satin weave using dobby attachment are made. Few crepe weave fabric are available. Other crepe fabrics are created using crepe yarn which are highly twisted (up to 65 tpi). Textured yarns, bicomponent yarns (uneven shrinkage), embossing, stamping crepe like effect are being used. In all these plain weave, synthetic fibers and thermoplastic property is used. Leno Weave It is the form of weaving in which two adjacent warp yarns cross each other between the picks. The warp yarns are paired. With a special leno or doup attachment warp yarns are crossed/ twisted over each other in pairs around each pick, firmly holding the filling yarn in the figure 8 loops formed. Leno fabrics are open and gauge like. Leno weave is useful in reducing yarn slippage, greater firmness & strength than plain weave. Uses- curtain, gauge, marquisette, grenadine, fruit sacks, rice net, mosquito net, mesh. Colour & Weave Effect Pattern produced in a fabric by using a certain weave and a certain arrangement of differently coloured yarns in both warp and filling. Hounds tooth 2 up, 2 down, 45 left hand twill, and group of 4 yarns of one colour are arranged in both warp & filling followed by the other colour. Lappet weave This is the type of weave in which floating threads are carried on the surface of the fabric and introduced at intervals to form the patterns. The floats are not long and the patterns are usually geometric, i.e. zigzag stripes in white yarn on a coloured plain weave ground. Novelty weave Any weave which varies or combines the basic weaves, plain, satin and twill. Swivel weaving A fabric in which figure is achieved by the introduction of additional weft threads into base fabric to produce small clipped woven-in-spot effects. The figuring yarn is fed from a series of shuttles mounted over the top of the weaving surface.

Tablet weaving It is a method of making woven plain or patterned narrow fabrics, where warp is controlled by tablets made of thin, stiff material, e.g. cardboard, plastic, bone, etc. Tablets are usually about 5 to 10 cm square, although other shapes, e.g. triangles, hexagons, etc. are also used. Each tablet has a hole at each corner through the warp yarns are threaded. Rotating the tablets controls the rise and fall of the warp yarns. Woven Pile Fabrics 3-dimensional fabrics, utilizing 3 sets of yarns, warp & weft to form base fabric & extra set of warp or weft yarns to form pile or loop surface. Extra set of yarns forming the pile may be cut to produce an erect pile on the face of fabric Cut Pile velvet or left uncut to form loops on one or both sides of fabric- Uncut pile terry.

Warp pile fabric - velvet, plushes, terry, velour. Weft pile fabric velveteen, corduroy

Triaxial Fabric Triaxail fabrics have 3 set of yarns, 2 warp & 1 filling. The warp yarns are placed diagonal to each other by special attachments, through which the filling yarn is interlaced. It is an ancient weave used in basket weaving. Stability against stretching in all direction even bias, strong resistance, resistance to shear forces & raveling. Lighter, longer life & less material required than biaxial fabrics. Three major weaves basic triaxial weave, basic basket triaxial weave & biplane weave. Uses aerospace, industrial fabrics, sail cloth, balloon, truck covers, uniforms & outerwear. Terry Fabric A warp pile fabric in which loops are created, without positive assistance, by varying the relative positions of the fell and the reed. A high tension is applied to the ground warp and a very low tension to the pile warp. Narrow Fabric This is the type of any textile fabric made by interlacing fibres or yarns which does not exceed 45 cm ( in the U. K.) and does not exceed 30 cm ( in the U. S. A. and other counries). Narrow fabrics are characterised by the edges, which are the essential feature. s