MGA Parts Catalogue

MGA 1500 - 1600 & MKII
RESTORATION PARTS & ACCESSORIES EFFECTIVE 4/10/00 MGA-21
MGA Restoration Parts Catalog

Contents
POWER UNIT External Engine Internal Engine Cylinder Head Inlet and Exhaust Manifolds Air Cleaners Exhaust System Radiators, Fan and Pump Accelerator Pedals, Choke Control Carburetors Fuel Pump, Fuel Tank, Fuel Pipes, Sender Units Clutch Cover, Clutch Plate, Bearings, Hydraulics External & Internal Components Suspension Joints, Springs, Shock Absorbers, Stub Axles Steering Wheel, Column, Rack & Pinion Assys, Crown Wheel, Bearings, Axle Shafts, Seals Springs, Shock Absorbers, Rubber Components U Joints, Shaft Components Wheels, Knock-Offs, Wheel Tools Brake Controls, Hydraulics Brake Drums, pads, shoes and Calipers. Brake Pipes Chassis, Chassis Components Bumper, front Grilles Body Fittings, front Body Fittings, rear Body Panels Windscreen and Windscreen Fittings Doors and Door Fittings Special fittings Ignition Components Heater Wipers & Washers Headlamps Lamps, general Electrical Fittings and Components. Battery, Wiring Harnesses Starter and Dynamo Fascia, Gauges and Switches. Parts Unique to Twin Cam & DeLuxe Models Cockpit Fittings Tops and Tonneau Covers Carpet and Trim Kits Seat Kits and Components 6-7 8-9 10-11 12 12 12 13 13 14-17 18 19 20, 21 22 22 23 24 25 25 25 26 27 28 29 30 30 31 32-33 34-35 36 36 37 38 39 39 40 40, 41 42-43 43 43 44-45 46 47 48, 49 50 51 A Accelerator Cable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Air Filters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Air Vent Grille . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Anti Sway Bar Kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 B Badges, front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30-31 Badges, rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Battery Bracket Assembly . . . . . . . .29, 43 Battery Cables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Battery Cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Battery Fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Bearing Set, camshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Bearing Set, con rod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Bearing Set, main . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Bearing, front axle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Bearing, rear axle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Body Panels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34-35 Body Rubber Sets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Brake Adjuster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Brake Caliper Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Brake Caliper Pistons . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Brake Disc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Brake Drum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Brake Hoses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Brake Master Cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Brake Master Cylinder Fittings . . . . . . .26 Brake Master Cylinder Repair Kit . . . . . .26 Brake Pad Set . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Brake Pipes, Sets & Fittings . . . . . . . . .28 Brake Back Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Brake Shoes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Brake Wheel Cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Brake Wheel Cylinder Repair Kit . . . . . .27 Bulb, headlamp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Bulb, instrument . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Bulb, tail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40-41 Bumper, front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 Bumper Fittings, front . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 Bumper, rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Bumper Fittings, rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Bushes, front suspension . . . . . . . . . . .22 Bushes, rear suspension . . . . . . . . . . . .25 C Camshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Camshaft Bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Camshaft Lifter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Carburetor Choke Adjustment . . . . . . . .15 Carburetor Complete Rebuild . . . . . . . .15 Carburetors, pushrod engines . . . . .14-15 Carburetors, Twin Cam . . . . . . . . . .16-17 Carpet Kits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Chassis Condition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 Chassis Numbers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Choke Cable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Clutch Alignment Tool . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Clutch Cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Clutch Kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Clutch Master Cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Clutch Pipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Clutch Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Clutch Problems: Sorting Out . . . . . . . .19 Clutch Release Bearing . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Clutch Slave Cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Clutch Slave Cylinder Repair Kit . . . . . .19 Cockpit Fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47 Cockpit Trim Kits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50-51 Condenser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Connecting Rods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Connectors, electrical . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Cooling System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Coupe Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 Crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Crown Wheel and Pinion . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Cylinder Head Inspection . . . . . . . . . . .10 Cylinder Heads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Cylinder Liners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 D Dash Knob Set . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Dash, under dash pad set . . . . . . . . . . .47 Dashboard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Dashboard Trimming . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Defroster Tubes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Defroster Vents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Differential . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Dipstick, engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Dipstick, gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Distributor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Distributor Cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Distributor Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8, 38 Door Fittings, roadster . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Door Handle, coupe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 Door Hinges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Door Latch, roadster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Door Locks, coupe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 Door Pillars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Door Seal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47 Door Skins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Door Strikers, coupe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 Driveshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
MANIFOLDS & EXHAUST
COOLING SYSTEM ENGINE CONTROL FUEL SYSTEM
CLUTCH GEARBOX FRONT SUSPENSION
STEERING REAR AXLE REAR SUSPENSION PROPSHAFT ROAD WHEELS BRAKES
CHASSIS BODY PANELS & FITTINGS
COUPE ELECTRICAL
FASCIA PANEL TWIN CAM TRIM
MGA Parts Catalog

Copyright Moss Motors, Ltd. October, 1985 Edition #MGA-21, April, 2000 Printed in the USA All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, photocopying, recording, or otherwise without the prior written permission of Moss Motors, Ltd.
LOCAL & OVERSEAS: 805-681-3400 FAX: 805-692-2525 www.mossmotors.com
MGA
Contents
0 E Electrical Trouble Shooting . . . . . . . . . .45 Engine Controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Engine Lock Tab Set . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Engine Mountings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Engine Numbers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Engine Tech Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Exhaust Front Pipe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Exhaust Intermediate Pipe . . . . . . . . . .12 Exhaust Mountings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Exhaust System, stainless . . . . . . . . . . .12 F Fan Belt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Fan Belt, over tightening . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Flasher Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Float Needle & Seats, carb. . . . . . . . . . .14 Floorboards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 Flywheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Fuel Gauge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Fuel Pipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Fuel Pump Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Fuel Pump Mounting Kit . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Fuel Pump Problems . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Fuel Sender Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Fuel Tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Fuse Box . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Fuses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 G Gasket Set, cylinder head . . . . . . . . .7, 11 Gasket Set, engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Gasket, manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11,12 Gear Lever . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Gear Lever Boot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Gear Lever Knob . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Gear, speedo drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Gearbox Components . . . . . . . . . . .20-21 Gearbox Gasket Set . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Gearbox Mountings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Gearbox Technical Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Generator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Generator Components . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Generator Fan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Generator Polarization . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Generator Pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Grille . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 Grille Fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 Grille, air vent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 H Halfshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Handbrake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Handbrake Cable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Handbrake Components . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Headlamp Assemblies . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Headlamp Rim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Headlamp, tripod type . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Headliner Kit, coupe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 Heat Shield, carb. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Heater Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Heater Control Cables . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Heater Hoses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Heater Switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Hinge, hood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Hinge, trunk lid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Horn and Horn Fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Hub Cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Hub, front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Hub, rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 I Identification Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 Ignition Coil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Ignition Coil Reversed Polarity . . . . . . .38 Ignition points . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Installing the Cylinder Head . . . . . . . . .10 J Jack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Jet Assembly, carb. . . . . . . . . . . . . .14,17 K Knock Off Hammer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Knock Offs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 L Lamp Problems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Lamp, Dashboard . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42,44 Lamp, Indicator Assembly . . . . . . . .42,44 Lamp, Number Plate Assembly . . . . . . .41 Lamp, Side Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Lamp, Tail Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Lamps, accessory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Lamps, driving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Lamps, fog . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Logos and Trademarks . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4 Luggage Racks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 M Main Bearing Caps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Main Bearing Clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 Manifold, exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Manifold, inlet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 MGA Painting Sub-Assemblies . . . . . . .33 MGA, Identifying . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 Mirror, dash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Mirrors, fender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Mountings, engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Muffler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 N Needles, carb. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14,17 Number Plate Mount . . . . . . . . . . . .30, 32 O Oil Cooler Kits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Oil Filter Assy. & Components . . . . . . . .7 Oil Filter Conversion Kit . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 Oil Pressure & Water Temp. Gauge . . . .44 Oil Pressure Gauge Pipe . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Oil Pressure Relief Valve . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Oil Pressure Spring/Valve Assembly . . . .9 Oil Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Oil Radiator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Oil Seals, rear axle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Overrider, front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 Overrider, rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 P Paint Color Codes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Paints . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33, 36 Panel Kits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 Pillar, A Post . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Pillar, B Post . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Piston, Brake Caliper . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Piston Ring Sets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Piston Sets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Production Data . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Prop Rod, hood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Prop Rod, trunk lid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Pulley, Crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Pushrod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 R Radiator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Radiator Cap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Radiator Hoses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Radio Blanking Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Rear Axle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Rear Axle Halfshafts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Relay, turn signal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Release Bearing, clutch . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 Ring Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Rocker Arm Components . . . . . . . . . . .11 Rocker Panels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 Rocker Shaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Rotor, ignition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 S Safety Catch, hood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Seat Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Seat Kits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 Sending Unit, fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 Serial Numbers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Shock Absorber, front . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Shock Absorber, rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Side Covers, engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Side Curtain Sets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49 Side Curtain Stowage Bags . . . . . . . . . .49 Sill Assemblies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 Spark Plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Speedometer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Speedometer Cable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Splash Plates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Spoke Wrench . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Spokes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Spring, front, coil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Spring, rear, leaf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Sprocket, camshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Sprocket, crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Starter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Starter Cable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42, 44 Starter Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Starting Handle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Steering Bushes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 Steering Rack Gaiters . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Steering Rack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Steering Spring Cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Steering Wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Sun visors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 Suspension Kits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22,25 Suspension Rebuild: Front . . . . . . . . . .23 Switch Knobs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Switches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Swivel Pin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22 T Tachometer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Tachometer Cable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Tappet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Tappet Cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 Thermostat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11, 13 Thermostat Cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11, 13 Thrust Washer, engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Thrust Washer, rear axle . . . . . . . . . . . .24 Tie Rod Ends . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Timing Chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Timing Chain Tensioner . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 Tonneau Covers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Tonneau Cover Fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Tools, wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Top and Top Fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Tire Cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Twin Cam Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 U U-Joint, driveshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Upholstery Kits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50-51 V Vacuum Advance Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Valance, front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Valve Cotter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Valve Covers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Valve Guide Installation . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Valve Guides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Valve, inlet & exhaust . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Valves, stellite-faced . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 W Washer Bottle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Washer Foot Valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Washer Jet Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Water Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Water Pump Pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Water Temp. & Oil Pressure Gauge . . . .44 Wheel Cover, spare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 Wheel Cylinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 Wheel Cylinder Repair Kit . . . . . . . . . . .27 Wheel Nut, Knock Off type . . . . . . .22, 25 Wheel Spinners (wire wheels) . . . . .22, 25 Wheels, wire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Window Fittings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36-37 Windows, coupe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37 Windshield: Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Windshield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36-37 Wiper Arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Wiper Blade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Wiper Motor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Wiring Harnesses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 Wishbones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
BRITISH MOTOR HERITAGE APPROVED
By special licensing agreement with Rover Cars, P.L.C., (formerly British Leyland) Moss Motors, Ltd., is a fully authorized manufacturer and distributor of British sports car spares. With official support from the original manufacturer, we are able to produce a wide range of reproduction spares which meet or exceed the original factory standard of quality. In conjunction with British Motor Heritage, Ltd. (a division of Rover Cars, P.L.C.), Moss Motors is dedicated to the preservation and restoration of British sports cars. The British Motor Heritage, Ltd., MG and Austin-Healey trademarks, as well as some exploded view artwork included in this publication, are the property of Rover Cars, P.L.C., and are reproduced under licensing agreement by Moss Motors, Ltd.
MOSS MOTORS, LTD. TOLL-FREE ORDERS

4
1-800-667-7872
Production Data
MGA Production Data
Model MGA 1500 Twin Cam MGA 1600 MGA 1600 MKII Production Period August 1955 to May 1959 April 1958 to April 1960 May 1959 to April 1961 April 1961 to June 1962 Special/Number Made First MGA 10,101 First Twin Cam 501 First 1600 68,851 First MKII 100,352 Last MGA 109,070
MGA Engine Serial Number Data

Use the following examples to de-code your engine serial number. Note: Early 1500 engines had numbers prefixed by BP15GB. Example: 15 GB/U/H 123456 Serial Number H-High Compression L-Low Compression U-Center Gearshift B-1500 Series A-1600 Series C-1622 Series 15-1500 cc 16-1600 cc
The above dates are dates of production, not model year dates. Model year production began around October of the previous year for the U.S. market, and in November for the home market. Accurate figures are not available for the 1600 MKII Deluxe, which used the 1622 cc engine in the Twin Cam chassis. They were assembled and numbered along with the regular production. The actual series production number of your MGA can be determined by subtracting 10,101 from your car's chassis number. For example, car number 24,514 is actually number 14,413. Coupe production was: 1500, 6,272; 1600, 2,771; MkII, 521; Twin Cam, 323; for a total of 9,887.
Chassis Numbers-1500
Chassis numbers for MGA 1500s are loaded with coded information about the car. For example, HDA43/10101 (the chassis number of the very first MGA 1500) tells us that the car is an MGA 2-seater, painted in black cellulose, for the North American market, and is MGA #10101. Use the following chart to decode your chassis number. (Acrylic lacquer is the modern equivalent of cellulose.) Not all listed colors and paint types listed were used on the MGA. Paint formula codes can be found on page 34. Example: H MGA D 2 Seats A Black 4 N. America 3 Cellulose 10101 Car Number
1st Letter (Car Type) H-MGA J-MG 1 1/4 litre K-Magnette
2nd Letter (Body Style) A-Saloon 4 door B-Saloon 2 door C-Tourer D-2 seater
3rd Letter (Exterior Paint Color) A-Black J-Dark Grey B-Light Grey K-Light Red C-Dark Red L-Light Blue D-Dark Blue P-Ivory E-Mid Green R-White F-Beige S-Mid-Grey G-Brown T-Light Green H-CKD finish (primer) U-Dark Green
1st Number (Market) 1-RHD Home 2-RHD Export 3-LHD 4-North America 5-CKD/RHD* 6-CKD/LHD*
2nd Number (Paint Type) 1-Synthetic 2-Synobel 3-Cellulose 4-Metallic 5-Primed 6-Cellulosed Body/Synthetic Wings *Note: Car shipped unassembled and unpainted.
Chassis Numbers-1600-1600 MKII

1600 and 1600 MKIIs did not provide as much information in their chassis numbers. For example, GHNL2103779 stands for: G H MGA 1400-1999 cc 1st Letter (Car Type) G-MGA 2nd Letter (Cubic Capacity) H-1400 to 1999 cc N 2 seat tourer L LHD 2 1600 MKII 103779 Car Number
3rd Letter (Body Type) 4th Letter* (Specification) N-2 seat Tourer L-LHD D-Coupe (None for RHD) *For LHD MKII, 4th and 5th positions are reversed from what MG published as theoretically correct.
5th Prefix* (Model Series) 2-1600 MKII (None for 1600)
Location of Serial Numbers

The Engine Number is stamped on a metal plate on the right hand side of the engine block... ...or is stamped on a metal plate on the rear of the engine behind the cylinder block. The Chassis Number (car number) is stamped on the identification plate on the left hand of the firewall shelf.
The Body Number is stamped on a metal plate on the bulkhead between the right hand hood hinge and the fuse block.
The Gearbox Number is stamped on top of the gearbox case next to the dipstick.
The Rear Axle Number is stamped on the front side of the left hand axle tube.
MGA
G-MG
External Engine
0
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 25 26 27 28 29
220-540 328-230 328-160 328-170 328-180 324-626 328-190 328-200 328-200 296-360 328-940 328-950 310-280 324-435 325-080 460-015 324-626 470-240 324-670 451-315 451-350 460-030 460-040 460-050 460-060
$12.50 $0.80 $6.10 NA $5.75 $0.45 $1.70 $3.20 $3.20 $0.95 $4.25 $3.35 $0.95 $0.35 NA $4.95 $0.45 $17.50 $0.50 NA $21.95 $14.50 $2.80 $3.45 NA
ENGINE PAINT, correct MG red A/R CORE PLUG 4 PLUG, oil gallery 4 PLUG, crankcase oil hole 2 PLUG, transverse oil hole 1 WASHER, for plug #5 1 PLUG, below oil relief valve 2 PLUG, oil filter boss 1 PLUG, chain tensioner oil feed 1 CORK SEAL, main bearing cap 2 STUD, cylinder head, long, 61/4" 4 STUD, cylinder head, short, 41/2" 7 NUT, cylinder head 11 WASHER, cylinder head 11 PIN, gearbox plate block 2 UNION, oil gauge pipe 1 WASHER, oil gauge union 1 TAP, water drain 1 WASHER, drain tap 1 DIPSTICK, straight 1500 & 1600 to (e)16GA/H9648 1 DIPSTICK, "bent" from (e)16GA/H9649 1 TUBE, dipstick in block 1 DUST CAP, dipstick 1 COVER, tappet inspection, rear 1 COVER, tappet inspection, front 1
53 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64
324-020 460-380 296-000 322-040 460-170 460-180 413-010 413-030 413-020 460-390 297-500 322-590
$0.15 NA $1.70 $0.50 $15.95 $15.95 $7.95 $16.95 $7.95 NA NA $1.65 $0.50
WASHER, oil pan bolt PLATE, front engine mounting GASKET, front plate BOLT, front plate BRACKET, R/H engine mount BRACKET, L/H engine mount MOUNT, R/H MOUNT, R/H MOUNT, L/H PLATE, gearbox to engine PLATE, gearbox to engine GASKET, gearbox plate BOLT, gearbox plate
19 1 1 qty. reduced at (e)GB259 5/3 1 1 1 Twin Cam & MKII Deluxe 1 all models 1 all 1500 w/ (e)GB prefix 1 from 1500 (e)GD101 1 1 8
68 235-800* NA OIL COOLER KIT, original type 1 69 435-300 $39.95 HOSE factory option thru 2 70 235-925 $99.95 OIL RADIATOR (13-row) 1600 MKII to (c)102736 1 71 435-590 $5.60 UNION (std. equip. thereafter) 1 72 324-800 $0.55 WASHER 1 *After-market oil cooler kit and replacement oil cooler components are shown in the British Accessories Catalog at the front of this publication. 235-920 $127.95 435-580 $20.95 235-925 $99.95 235-995 $119.95 460-310 NA 322-040 $0.50 365-730 $0.20 460-320 $9.95 324-040 $0.15 310-050 $0.45 324-580 $0.10 324-040 $0.15 310-240 $0.60 460-330 $8.55 365-730 $0.20 322-510 $0.20 321-598 $0.50 325-245 $0.40 * NA 460-350 NA 455-380 NA OIL COOLER KIT, accessory type OIL HOSE OIL RADIATOR (13-row) OIL RADIATOR, 16-row heavy-duty BRACKET, generator, mounting BOLT LOCK WASHER PILLAR, adjusting link LOCK WASHER NUT WASHER LOCK WASHER NUT LINK, generator adjusting LOCK WASHER BOLT BOLT AND NUT SET DRIVE RIVET, engine number plate COVER, timing chain to 1500 (e)GB2581 COVER, timing chain from 1500 (e)GB259 to 1622 (e)GC8262 COVER, timing chain from 1622 (e)GC8263 1 2 1 1 1 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1
Note: Some early cars used a straight breather pipe (#451-040) which was used with a different front inspection cover. As these early covers are no longer available, we suggest using cover #460-060 and breather pipe #451-050. 30 31 35 37 296-370 322-440 324-610 451-040 451-050 460-080 460-630 460-155 329-210 460-870 324-650 460-370 296-330 328-280 324-626 322-210 $1.15 $0.85 $0.20 NA $18.95 NA $0.90 $5.95 $1.45 $1.80 $0.30 NA $2.70 $3.80 $0.45 $0.20 GASKET, tappet cover BOLT, tappet cover WASHER, tappet cover bolt BREATHER PIPE, w/ mounting clip to (e)GB35808 BREATHER PIPE, w/ mounting clip from (e)GB35809 PLATE, blanking GASKET, blanking plate VALVE, oil pressure release SPRING, release valve CAP NUT, release valve WASHER, cap nut OIL PAN GASKET, oil pan PLUG, oil pan WASHER, drain plug BOLT, oil pan to block 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 19
38 39 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 52 6
to (e)GB51767
75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 90
1-800-667-7872
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
91
121-500 $1.95 OIL SEAL, felt to 1622 (e)GC8262 120-000 $3.90 OIL SEAL, rubber from 1622 (e)GC8263 92 296-510* $2.85 GASKET to 1500 (e)GB258 296-340 $2.50 GASKET from 1500 (e)GB259 on *Note: These parts fit only the very early engines without timing chain tensioners. 323-568 $5.60 HARDWARE SET, timing cover 93 322-210 $0.20 BOLT, timing cover, upper 94 322-230 $0.30 BOLT, timing cover, lower 95 324-765 $0.35 WASHER, timing cover bolt 96 322-040 $0.50 BOLT, cover & plate to block 97 460-360 $1.10 WASHER
1 1 1 1 1 3 2 5 4 4
External Engine
To install a new felt timing cover seal (#121-500), remove the old seal and any gasket compound from the groove. Wash the cover in solvent. Soak the new seal in oil and carefully push it into the groove. Make sure that it is straight and not caught on the sharp edge of the cover. When seated, push the crank pulley through the cover and give it a turn or two to seat the seal. Prepare the cover gasket with a small amount of sealer and stick it to the cover or end plate. Push the pulley onto the crank and bolt up the cover. This method insures that the pulley is centralized, keeping oil seepage at a minimum. Note: Early and late covers may be interchanged but a late rubber seal cannot be fitted to an early cover.
110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 332-070 460-450 460-460 460-470 460-658 460-660 460-690 460-665 460-680 460-670 $8.40 $87.95 $18.95 $0.95 NA NA $1.65 $56.95 NA $6.95 CABLE, ground engine to frame PULLEY, crankshaft NUT, crank dog WASHER, lock tab TACH. DRIVE ASS'Y. PINION, tach drive GASKET HOUSING, tach drive pinion RING SEAL 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
No.
Gasket Sets
296-420 296-430 $25.95 $22.95 GASKET SET, head set GASKET SET, engine, less head set 1 1
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
Oil Filter Components

125 460-830 NA NA PIPE ASSY., filter to block PIPE ASSY., filter to block 1500 to (e)GB26932 from 1500 (e)GB26933 thru 1622 MKII 1
Head Set, #296-420, includes cylinder head, manifold, carb./heat shield, air filter, rocker cover, heater outlet, water outlet, thermostat gaskets, and valve stem seals. Engine Set, #296-430, includes main bearing cap seals, gaskets for front and rear engine plates, timing cover, oil pump, oil strainer, chain tensioner, oil sump, water pump, oil pipe adaptor, tappet covers, crank case blanking plate, sump drain plug, oil filter and drain tap. (Late 1622 rubber oil seal not included.) The two gasket sets include all gaskets required for the MGA engine.
1 1 1 1 1
126 460-840 127 324-800 127a 324-800 128 460-820
$6.75 $0.55 $0.55 NA $22.95
BANJO BOLT WASHER, copper, inner WASHER, copper, outer ADAPTOR ADAPTOR
1500 to (e)GB11297 from 1500 (e)GB11298 thru 1622 MKII
Main bearing caps are a tight fit and care must be taken when removing them. In lieu of a factory cap puller, insert a bolt in the threaded hole in the cap and pull on it with a slide hammer. Do not use screwdrivers or chisels to separate the caps as these inappropriate tools will damage the mating surfaces. Caps must fit with no clearance. If gouged, oil will pass through the mating surface and the bearing will have too much running clearance. When reinstalling main caps hold the bearing shell against the saddle and tap the cap home gently with a soft-face hammer. Use assembly lube to protect the bearing until oil reaches it. As part of a rebuild, remove the core plugs and have the block hot tanked. If you are not sure that all the oil passages have been rinsed free of scale and casting sand, pressure wash the block with hot water and detergent. Follow with a hot water rinse and spray aerosol carburetor cleaner through the oil ways. Warning: Hot-tanking will dissolve the aluminium engine number plate. MGA engine numbers are back-stamped onto a plain aluminum plate affixed with two steel drive rivets, our #325-245. When rebuilding an engine, carefully remove the plate by untwisting the drive rivets with a pair of vice grip pliers, as the plate would otherwise dissolve in the caustic solution. This extra effort will allow you to easily re-install the plate, preserving the history and originality of your MGA.
1 1 1 1 1
129 324-800 132 * 133 * 134 *
$0.55 NA NA NA
WASHER, copper OIL FILTER ASSY., early Tecalemit 1500 to (e)GB26932 OIL FILTER ASSY., late Tecalemit OIL FILTER ASSY., Purolator
alternatives from 1500 (e)GB26933 thru 1622 MKII *Note: Assemblies interchange, provided the correct pipe (illus. 125) is used. 136 137 138 139 140 142 435-335 $1.50 NA NA NA NA $10.95 $5.75 NA NA NA NA $0.75 $5.65 $0.60 $0.60 SEALING RING SEALING RING, cannister HEAD ASSY. HEAD ASSY. HEAD ASSY. FILTER ELEMENT, felt FILTER ELEMENT, paper CANNISTER ASSY. CANNISTER ASSY. CANNISTER ASSY. SPRING CLIP SPRING CLIP PLATE WASHER, felt WASHER, steel all early Tecalemit early Tecalemit late Tecalemit Purolator all alternative to felt early Tecalemit late Tecalemit Purolator Tecalemit Purolator
460-900 460-850 435-350 435-355
143 144 435-328 145 435-338 146 147 326-200 148 435-150 150 435-560 151 435-570
1/2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
all
153 329-230 $2.05 SPRING Tecalemit 1 154 329-120 $1.85 SPRING Purolator 1 155 NA CANNISTER early Tecalemit 1 156 460-770 NA CANNISTER late Tecalemit 1 157 435-327 NA CANNISTER Purolator 1 158 460-790 $2.30 BOLT Tecalemit 1 159 460-800 NA BOLT Purolator 1 160 460-805 $0.70 SEAL Tecalemit 1 162 460-815 $3.25 SEAL Purolator 1 163 235-940 $31.95 SPIN-ON FILTER ADAPTOR 1 164 235-880 $5.95 ELEMENT, spin-on adaptor 1 These Moss-designed full-pressure die cast adaptors look nearly identical to the factory aluminum filter heads, and, in fact, completely replace the original unit. The factory cannister design is prone to leakage due to failed seals and is always a hassle to clean up when changing filter elements. 7
MGA
0 Internal Engine
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10
451-520 $495.00 451-560 NA 460-410 NA 330-160 $2.75 460-420 $19.95 327-100 $0.95 433-815 $1.90 460-440 $1.20 425-050 425-100 425-150 425-200 425-250 425-300 425-350 425-400 425-450 425-500 $38.95 $38.95 $38.95 $38.95 $38.95 $29.95 $29.95 $29.95 $36.95 $36.95 $7.65 $7.65 $7.65 NA $49.95 NA $47.95 $8.20 $1.95 $2.60 $2.15 $0.20 $28.95 $28.95 $28.95 $28.95 $28.95
CRANKSHAFT, new CRANKSHAFT RESTRICTOR BUSHING, spigot CRANK SPROCKET KEY OIL THROWER, crankshaft SHIM, aligns sprocket heights MAIN BEARING SET, standard MAIN BEARING SET, .010" MAIN BEARING SET, .020" MAIN BEARING SET, .030" MAIN BEARING SET, .040" MAIN BEARING SET, standard MAIN BEARING SET, .010" MAIN BEARING SET, .020" MAIN BEARING SET, .030" MAIN BEARING SET, .040" THRUST WASHER SET, standard THRUST WASHER SET, .005" THRUST WASHER SET, .010" CONNECTING ROD, #1 & 3 CONNECTING ROD, #1 & 3 CONNECTING ROD, #2 & 4 CONNECTING ROD, #2 & 4 BOLT, connecting rod cap LOCK PLATE, (see locktab set #82) BOLT, gudgeon pin BOLT, gudgeon pin LOCK WASHER ROD BEARING SET, standard ROD BEARING SET, .010" ROD BEARING SET, .020" ROD BEARING SET, .030" ROD BEARING SET, .040"
1500-1600 1622
1 1 4 1 1 2 1 A/R 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 8 4 4 4 4 1 1 1 1 1
18
420-418 420-428 420-438 420-448 420-458 420-468 420-518 420-528 420-538 420-548 420-558 420-568 420-618 420-628 420-638 420-648 420-658 420-718 420-748 420-768 420-818 420-848 420-868
$269.95 NA $269.95 $269.95 $269.95 $269.95 $269.95 NA $269.95 $269.95 $269.95 $269.95 $269.95 NA $269.95 $269.95 $269.95 NA NA NA NA NA NA
PISTON SET, standard PISTON SET, .010" PISTON SET, .020" PISTON SET, .030" PISTON SET, .040" PISTON SET, .060" PISTON SET, standard PISTON SET, .010" PISTON SET, .020" PISTON SET, .030" PISTON SET, .040" PISTON SET, .060" PISTON SET, standard PISTON SET, .010" PISTON SET, .020" PISTON SET, .030" PISTON SET, .040" PISTON SET, standard PISTON SET, .030 PISTON SET, .060 PISTON SET, standard PISTON SET, .030 PISTON SET, .060
1500 (8.3:1 CR)
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
1500 - 1600
1600 (8.3:1 CR)
1622
1622 (8.3:1 CR)
11
12
13 14 15 16 17
425-550 425-600 425-650 460-480 460-500 460-490 460-510 322-840 460-520 322-480 322-140 365-730 425-700 425-800 425-850 425-900 425-950
1500 (9:1 CR)
1500 - 1600 1622 1500 - 1600 1622
1600 (9:1 CR)
1500 - 1600 1622
Note: Rings are included with pistons. 9:1 high compression ratio pistons are not recommended due to lower octane rating of available fuels. When installing new pistons and/or rings, always check all ring end gaps by pushing a ring about an inch into the bore and measuring the resulting gap with a feeler gauge. The proper running clearances are listed in your factory manual. Try to build your engine as close as possible to these measurements.
all except Twin Cam

8
1-800-667-7872
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
Internal Engine
No. Part No. Price (each) Description Application Qty. Req.
19
421-240 421-250 421-260 421-270 421-280 421-390 421-395 421-400 421-410 421-415 421-290 421-300 421-310 421-320 421-330 421-340 421-350 421-360 421-370 421-380
$51.50 $51.50 $51.50 $51.50 $51.50 $57.50 $57.50 $57.50 $57.50 $57.50 $44.95 $44.95 $44.95 $44.95 $44.95 $68.95 $68.95 $68.95 $68.95 $68.95
RING SET, standard RING SET, .020" RING SET, .030" RING SET, .040" RING SET, .060" RING SET, standard RING SET, .020" RING SET, .030" RING SET, .040" RING SET, .060" RING SET, standard RING SET, .020" RING SET, .030" RING SET, .040" RING SET, .060" RING SET, standard RING SET, .020" RING SET, .030" RING SET, .040" RING SET, .060" CYLINDER SLEEVE CYLINDER SLEEVE CYLINDER SLEEVE
1500, 4-ring
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 4 4 4
70 75 76 77
460-620 NA 460-720 $149.95 460-725 $1.05 NA
PIPE, drain, in rear bearing cap SPINDLE, oil pump drive GASKET, pump to crankcase OIL PUMP
to (e)GB40104
to (e)GB46341
1 1 1 1
1500, 5-ring
(Note: this early pump and strainer are no longer available. The later pump and strainer, #460-730 & #460-760 listed below, may be used if used together.) 78 79 80 81 82 460-730 460-735 $99.95 $0.70 NA $47.50 $15.95 $1.95 $1.05 $0.65 $2.45 OIL PUMP GASKET, strainer to pump from (e)GB46342 1 1 1 1 1 4 1 1 3
1622, 4-ring
Engine Tech
Running clearances are most important to the success and longevity of your rebuild. Oil pressure problems traceable to improper running clearances are commonly found in the oil pump, main bearings, cam bearings and relief valve assemblies. Check the oil pump...excessive wear and roughness of interior surfaces indicate the need for a new pump. Refer to your workshop manual for specifications and details. Crankshaft main bearing clearances. Never attempt to compensate for excess main bearing journal clearance by installing oversize bearings on a crankshaft that has not been turned to accept them. Double check reground journals with Plastigauge while installing the crank. Bearing running clearances are listed in the factory shop manual. Wash the oil passages in the crank and block with aerosol carburetor cleaner before assembly. Always use a thin smear of an assembly lubricant. This protects the bearings until the oil reaches the journals. Never attempt to start a new or freshly rebuilt engine without first priming the oil system by removing the spark plugs and turning the engine over with the starter until pressure registers on the gauge. Cam Bearings. Worn cam bearings are a prime source of low oil pressure. New bearings should be installed and finished to correct running tolerances by a competent machinist. Cam bearings must be replaced if you have your block hot tanked. Oil Pressure Spring and Valve Assembly. The MGA oil pressure relief spring (#329-210) measures 3 inches in length. If the spring is shorter than this, low oil pressure will result. Do not stretch or shim the spring to adjust oil pressure. Replace the valve plunger if any wear is evident on the seating face. The six flywheel bolts (#322-850) must be set in the crank before the crank is installed in the block. Once the main caps are in place, installing these bolts is practically impossible. Damaged and/or stretched flywheel bolts will result in improper torque and a loose flywheel. Replace any that are not in good condition. Use new nuts and a thread locking compound along with new lock tabs. Check the block deck surface as well as the cylinder head surface for straightness. Use a steel straight edge and a feeler gauge to measure along the length and diagonals of the block. MGA blocks are commonly shallow between cylinders number two and three. Remove as little of the block surface as possible; .005 will usually suffice. Counter sinking the head studs will help make a good gasket seal. The studs typically pull up the topmost thread which holds the gasket away from the block surface. Use a suitably sized drill bit or countersink and just touch the hole to knock off the top thread. Always make sure your pistons do not stand more than .010 above the deck after installation. An often surfaced deck may allow new pistons to hit the head. Mill piston tops to remove excess metal. Flywheel ring gears are prone to considerable wear and can result in starter motor pinion gears becoming jammed. A temporary fix is to rock the car backwards in first gear or use a wrench on the commutator end of early style starter motors. Since a permanent cure involves removing the engine, we recommend careful examination whenever it is removed for other maintenance, such as clutch replacement. Keep in mind that the ring gear wears mostly in two small areas relating to where the pistons come to rest in the cylinder bores. Ring gears are a heat-shrink fit and are best installed by your local automotive machine shop. The cost of replacement is not expensive and offers cheap insurance against a common problem.
20
426-050* $34.95 426-060* $39.95 426-070* $33.95
1500 1600 1622
*Note: These sleeves return worn or damaged cylinder bores to standard diameter. These must be fitted by a competent machine shop. 25 26 27 28 30 31 32 33 34 36 451-320 $224.95 222-270 $259.95 425-000 $19.95 327-050 $0.55 460-530 $21.95 311-500 $6.05 460-540 $24.95 460-590 $9.75 460-560 460-580 322-250 $11.45 $0.25 $0.40 CAMSHAFT CAMSHAFT, high performance CAM BEARING SET KEY PLATE NUT CAM SPROCKET TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER ASSEMBLY GASKET BOLT 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2
from (e)GB259 on
Timing parts are often overlooked during an engine rebuild. Cam and crank gears must not have sharp pointy teeth, and must fit their keys perfectly. Timing chain wear can be determined with the chain held parallel to the floor. It should not sag appreciably. The closer to horizontal, the better the chain. The Reynolds tensioner must not be deeply grooved. It is possible for a worn tensioner pad to fall into the chain, severely damaging the engine. 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 460-640 460-300 460-650 327-010 326-150 323-250 322-230 460-638 460-628 460-600 460-610 $59.95 NA $65.95 $0.50 $0.35 $0.65 $0.30 $89.95 NA $6.95 $5.45 SPINDLE, distributor drive SLEEVE, distributor mounting GEAR, tach drive KEY CLIP, end of camshaft SCREW, sleeve to block BOLT, clamping plate to sleeve TAPPET & PUSHROD SET (8 pr.) TAPPET & PUSHROD, pair TAPPET PUSHROD 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 8 8 8
50 51
Note: Tappets and pushrods changed in length and diameter of the spherical mating surfaces at engine #15 GB5504. The later parts which we supply may be used in earlier engines in pairs only. 55 56 57 460-700 190-040 325-090 NA $59.95 $2.35 FLYWHEEL RING GEAR PIN, pressure plate locating 1 1 2
When separating the engine and transmission for any reason, be sure to check the condition of the ring gear teeth. If they are battered and worn, have the ring gear replaced. Ring gears should be replaced only by experts using professional equipment. 58 60 65 66 67 68 69 310-050 322-850 328-080 328-930 311-000 328-725 328-960 $0.45 $6.50 NA $5.95 $1.00 NA $3.35 NUT, flywheel bolt BOLT, flywheel to crankshaft PLUG, rear main bearing cap STUD, main bearing cap NUT, main bearing stud STUD, oil pump, long STUD, oil pump, short 6 6 1 6 6 1 2/3
to (e)GB40104
1500 (early pump) later 1500 to MKII

9
MGA
1600, 4-ring
460-760 460-005 460-520 460-550 460-570 460-710
STRAINER to (e)GB46341 STRAINER from (e)GB46342 LOCK TAB SET LOCK PLATE, connecting rod bolts LOCK PLATE, cam sprocket nut LOCK PLATE, timing chain tensioner LOCK PLATE, flywheel
0 Cylinder Head Tech
Cylinder Head Inspection

MGA cylinder heads are sturdy and will run acceptably well when far past their prime. In some aspects, this is not advantageous as faults such as bad valve guides, burned valves, and cracked seats are not discovered until they are fatal to the head. Cracking is the most common problem with MGA heads. Improper torque and overheating are the prime cause of cracks found in the seats and the exterior casting between number two and three cylinders. A small crack may be successfully repaired by a machinist using a new seat. Welding is sometimes attempted, but do not expect a lot of success with cracks that appear on the exterior of the head or in the gas passages. Welds can fail unexpectedly regardless of the skill of the welder. Before carrying out any work on the head, clean the combustion chambers and inspect the valves and seats for obvious problems such as burned valves and cracks. An easy (on the bench) leak test can be done with solvent or carburetor cleaner. Pour a small amount of the fluid into the ports and set the head down on its face. After a few seconds lift the head, and observe how much fluid has seeped around the valves; the more fluid, the poorer the seal. Before spending time and money on your head, have it magnafluxed at a machine shop. This is an inexpensive process that will reveal any cracks. Installation, as the saying goes, is the reversal of the above procedure. Wipe the surfaces with a cleaner, and see that they remain clean and dry throughout the operation. Check the new gasket; it's usually marked for top and front. If not, it is an easy matter to line up everything to see that it will be installed correctly. Although instructions in the gasket package and in some of the shop manuals may say that no gasket sealer is required, a light coating of High Tack or Kopper Kote sprayed on the gasket will help prevent leaks. This is especially true with the composition gaskets supplied instead of the copper in many of todays sets. While the gasket is drying, replace the studs and wipe any grit from the surface of the block. Studs only need to be torqued to twenty-five ft./lbs. or so. Check the studs carefully for stretched and damaged threads. Replace any that are damaged (#328-940, #328-950). By now, thirty or so years after manufacture, it is a good idea to replace the old studs and nuts. Place the gasket over the studs carefully. Lower the head into place, install the push rods, rocker assembly and washers and nuts. Now is where all the careful preparation can go wrong.
Since all MGA heads are virtually interchangeable you should know what you have on your car. Look to the rear of the head - there is usually a number cast in the surface between the stud holes. Generally a 15 denotes a 1500 or 1600 head and a 16, we believe, indicates a 1600 MKII head. An 18 is an MGB head. Many heads were unmarked and there are exceptions. Be sure not to order cylinder head parts by external appearances. Measure your valves and order accordingly. The 1600 MKII carried a head with improved casting, greater port volume and larger valves. This was the pattern followed for the MGB 1800 heads. When exchanging cylinder heads keep in mind that although the castings are interchangeable throughout the range, you should go up not down. For example, an 1800 is suitable for a 1500, but it is counterproductive to install a 1500 head on an 1800 engine.
Torquing must be done accurately and in the proper sequence. Go around the head three or four times, increasing the torque each time. Start at twenty-five ft./lbs., go to forty ft./lbs. and finish up at fifty ft./lbs. Studs with a dot or the number 22 on the end will take more torque than the unmarked studs. It is safe to torque these to sixty ft./lbs., but only if all studs are so marked.
Valve Guide Installation

Be sure to check valve stems and valve guides for wear before grinding the valve faces. Worn guides can be driven out toward the combustion chamber side by using a 9/16" diameter steel rod or punch. Press the new valve guides into the head from the top until they are 5/8" from the spring seat as illustrated below. Intake guides are fitted with the widest bevel at the top and exhaust guides are fitted with the counterbored ends at the bottom.
Installing the Cylinder Head

One of the most common complaints about the MGA is its leaky head gaskets. This need not be, and is usually a symptom of poor assembly, rather than a fault of the car. A few simple procedures will produce a leak free installation. The first consideration is the method of removal. The proper sequence should be followed in slackening the head nuts as well as tightening them. Do not use sharp edged tools to pry at the edges of the head. If force is necessary, gently tap the head around its perimeter with a soft-faced hammer. If it is necessary to lever the head, the lug at the back and the thermostat housing may be used to brace the lever. A good seal can be achieved only if the mating surfaces of the head and block are clean and flat. A good, if rather tedious cleaning method is to scrape the surfaces with a single edge razor blade. Solvent or carburetor cleaner is used to help soften the old gasket. If the studs are removed, a sanding block with 80 grit waterproof paper is used to finish the surfaces. Low spots will show up as dark areas when the sandpaper block method is used. This method requires some care that the grit and particles do not enter the interior of the block or cylinders. The threaded holes must be cleaned out too. Cleanliness is a prime importance, although less critical if the assembly is to be hot-tanked and washed before reassembly. Check the head and block surfaces for flatness. If the head is warped it will have to be planed. Unless you are building a modified engine, have as little metal as possible removed. Your block may also have to be planed, and many shops will pass a block over the planer as a matter of course. See our engine section for tips on countersinking the stud holes, which is of primary importance if your block has been planed. 10
1-800-667-7872
Cylinder Head
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
296-420 $25.95 296-400* $24.60 310-280 $0.95 324-725 $0.60 328-900 $0.95 328-910 $1.05 NA 460-100 $10.95 460-145 $13.15 9 296-310* $3.50 10 460-110 $3.10 460-045 $5.85 11 460-120 $0.55 12 460-130 $0.80 460-135 $1.40 13 460-115 $1.50 14 386-745 $7.70 15 296-410* $3.25 17 328-270 $0.45 18 460-940 $29.50 19 296-380* $0.60 20 434-180 $4.95 434-189 $4.95 434-190 $4.95 434-135 $15.95 21 328-605 $0.85 310-140 $0.35 365-730 $0.20 22 296-450 $1.20 23 460-140 $3.55 25 460-258 NA 26 460-260 $2.40 27 310-150 $0.70 28 460-250 $19.95 28a 325-240 NA 29 330-150 $2.75 30 451-340 $22.95 35 328-080 NA 36 328-290 $5.95 37 329-470 $0.90 38 324-400 $0.90 39 329-220 $0.45 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
HEAD GASKET SET, includes all items marked * 1 GASKET, cylinder head 1 NUT, cylinder head stud 11 WASHER, cylinder head stud, hardened 11 STUD, exhaust manifold to head, short 2 STUD, exhaust manifold to head, long 4 VALVE COVER (see accessory section for valve covers) 1 OIL CAP, stock type 1 OIL CAP, chromed (no cable) 1 GASKET, valve cover 1 CAP NUT, valve cover 2 CAP NUT, valve cover, chromed 2 BUSHING, rubber 2 WASHER, cupped, plain 2 WASHER, cupped, chromed 2 DISTANCE PIECE 2 BRACKET, engine lifting 2 GASKET, manifold 1 PLUG, cylinder head oil feed 1 ELBOW, water outlet 1 GASKET 1 THERMOSTAT, 165 hot climates 1 THERMOSTAT, 180 standard conditions 1 THERMOSTAT, 195 cold climates 1 SLEEVE, thermo. bypass blanking (see page 53) 1 STUD, water outlet elbow 3 NUT for stud 3 LOCKWASHER for nut 3 * GASKET, heater valve 1 COVER, heater valve port (when heater is not fitted) 1 ROCKER ASSEMBLY, new (incl. #26 - 42 below) 1 SCREW, rocker arm adjusting 8 NUT, adjusting 8 ROCKER ARM 8 PLUG, oil drilling 8 BUSHING (must be drilled for oil holes and reamed) 8 ROCKER SHAFT 1 PLUG, threaded 1 PLUG, plain 1 WASHER, double coil 2 WASHER, plain 2 SPRING 3
40 41 42 43 44 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 60
460-230 NA 460-240 $13.95 460-270 $2.05 460-280 $2.25 310-140 $0.35 460-210 $7.95 326-120 $0.95 297-108* $1.95 460-205 $3.45 433-020 $6.55 423-430 $24.95 460-220 $0.85 423-130 $7.95 423-140 $8.95 423-110 $7.95 423-115 $22.95 423-150 $8.95 423-155 $22.95
BRACKET, with tapped hole BRACKET, plain SCREW LOCK PLATE NUT, rocker bracket stud VALVE COTTER CLIP VALVE STEM SEAL SET (8) VALVE RETAINER OIL DEFLECTOR SPRING SET, valve COLLAR INTAKE VALVE, 1.500 dia. INTAKE VALVE, 1.563 dia. EXHAUST VALVE, 1.281 dia. STELLITE EXHAUST VALVE EXHAUST VALVE, 1.344 dia. STELLITE EXHAUST VALVE
1500 - 1600 MKII (1622) 1500 - 1600
1 3 1 1 4 16 8 1 8 8 1 8 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
61
MKII (1622)
62 63 64 65
423-240 423-245 423-250 423-255
$2.45 $5.25 $2.45 $5.25
INTAKE GUIDE, stock INTAKE GUIDE, manganese-bronze EXHAUST GUIDE, stock EXHAUST GUIDE, manganese-bronze
To reduce the frequency of valve jobs, we suggest the use of our Stellite-faced exhaust valves and silicon bronze valve guides. Stellite is a very hard wear and erosion resistant alloy which retains these properties at very high temperatures, making it the ideal material for exhaust valves. The low friction and high strength characteristics of silicon bronze produces valve guides which not only show extremely little wear after long service but produce much less valve stem wear than common guides. The combination of our Stellite exhaust valves and silicon bronze valve guides cannot be beaten for reliability and longevity! 67 68 70 71 72 328-970 328-980 408-800 408-810 458-765 $1.10 $1.15 $5.95 $4.95 $0.50 STUD, rocker bracket, short STUD, rocker bracket, long VALVE COVER PLATE, MG crest VALVE COVER PLATE, patent number RIVET, valve cover plates 2 2 1 1 4

11
MGA
Manifolds/Exhaust
0
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
1 2 5 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 16 18 19 20 21 22 23 25 26 27 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 40 41 42 43 44 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58
456-110 326-220 223-200 226-010 372-120 372-130 322-040 372-040 372-045 372-140 294-800 451-000 372-610 328-910 328-900 460-090 311-540 365-730 460-400 470-230 328-990 310-260 324-040 460-190 329-800 310-050 324-040 329-810 310-070 365-730 408-830 408-835 296-410 372-030 294-700 372-050 326-210 470-230 454-870 321-798 470-170 470-160 470-138 321-678 412-080 454-580 470-150 321-678
$17.25 $3.70 $25.95 NA $42.90 $42.90 $0.50 $18.95 $12.95 $15.85 $0.75 $36.95 $2.15 $1.05 $0.95 $2.05 $0.55 $0.20 NA $3.95 $1.45 $0.70 $0.15 NA NA $0.45 $0.15 NA $0.75 $0.20 $5.95 $5.95 $3.25 $4.95 $1.05 $8.95 $1.15 $3.95 $54.55 $0.85 $3.25 $4.50 $15.55 $0.80 $4.95 $49.95 $7.95 $0.80
AIR HOSE, grille to carb., see page 39 for complete set CLAMP, air hose AIR FILTER, chrome, accessory PLUG, valve cover, use with #223-200 filter AIR FILTER ASSY., front, original type AIR FILTER ASSY., rear, original type BOLT, air filter to carb. ELEMENT, for original filter FELT PAD SET, not included w/ air filters BRACKET, accelerator spring anchor GASKET, filter to carb. HEAT SHIELD, w/ asbestos pads OVERFLOW TUBE CLIP, on the side of the block STUD, exhaust manifold to head, long STUD, exhaust manifold to head, short WASHER, exhaust manifold stud NUT, brass, manifold stud LOCK WASHER, exhaust manifold stud EXHAUST MANIFOLD SEALING RING, pipe to manifold STUD, exhaust pipe flange NUT, exhaust pipe flange WASHER, exhaust pipe flange INTAKE MANIFOLD STUD, carburetor mounting NUT, carburetor stud WASHER, carburetor stud STUD, accelerator bracket NUT LOCK WASHER INFORMATION PLATE, intake manifold 1500 INFORMATION PLATE, intake manifold1600 & MKII GASKET, manifold SPACER, carb. to manifold GASKET BREATHER HOSE CLAMP SEALING RING, pipe to manifold FRONT PIPE, one-piece, as original BOLT AND NUT STRAP, short STRAP, long HANGER ASSEMBLY BOLT & NUT SET MOUNT MUFFLER HANGER BOLT & NUT SET, rear hanger
1 1 2 1 1 1 4 2 1 1 2 1 1 4 2 4 6 4 1 1 3 3 3 1 4 4 4 2 2 2 1 1 1 2 6 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
60
451-728
$33.95
61
812-070 $1.40 812-075 $1.70 321-678 $0.80 454-875 $174.95 454-590 $69.95
EXHAUST PIPE HEAT SHIELD (insulated accessory, mounts under floor to keep floorboards from scorching or burning) CLAMP, repl. type CLAMP, original type, w/o bolt BOLT & NUT SET for original clamp STAINLESS STEEL EXHAUST SYSTEM (see Accessories Catalog for details) FREEFLOW SPORTS MUFFLER (see Accessories Catalog for details)
1 1 1 1 1 1
1-800-667-7872
12
Cooling/Engine Controls
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
Cooling
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10 456-050 $264.75 202-020 $6.15 583-004 $4.95 460-020 $18.95 324-670 $0.50 470-030 $2.95 296-110 $4.50 322-040 $0.50 326-408 $8.25 326-430 $1.40 470-278 $14.95 434-487 $4.75 470-270 $5.95 470-275 $24.50 470-040 $25.95 473-080 $9.45 328-040 $8.70 324-660 $0.65 RADIATOR (reproduction, with overflow) RADIATOR CAP, 4 lbs. normal RADIATOR CAP, 7 lbs. raises boiling temp. TAP, radiator drain WASHER, for drain tap DRAIN TUBE PACKING SET, radiator mounting BOLT, radiator mounting CLAMP SET, 6 original wire clamps CLAMP, radiator hose RADIATOR HOSE SET RADIATOR HOSE, pipe to pump RADIATOR HOSE, upper & lower (replacement) RADIATOR HOSE, upper & lower (orig. manufacturer) PIPE, water branch NIPPLE (used when heater is fitted) PLUG (used when heater is not fitted) WASHER 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 6 1 6 1 1 2 2 1 1 1 1
Engine Controls
40 42 43 44 45 46 48 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 280-790 331-350 331-090 372-140 372-160 372-055 329-025 372-060 322-940 378-620 375-108 372-070 329-005 329-015 372-035 372-025 $2.10 $25.95 $7.85 $15.85 $26.95 $8.30 $2.40 $4.75 $0.50 $9.95 $3.25 $1.10 NA $3.50 $2.05 NA PEDAL PAD, accelerator CHOKE CABLE ACCELERATOR CABLE BRACKET, accelerator spring anchor 1 BRACKET, cable CABLE ANCHOR SPRING GUIDE, accelerator cable SCREW, for guide TRUNNION CABLE STOP, w/ nut BRACKET, accelerator spring SPRING, accelerator return 1500 to (c)24593 SPRING, accelerator return from (c)24594 thru MKII DISTANCE TUBE, pedal stop STOP, accelerator pedal (rubbber) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 2 1 1 1 2 1
11 12 13 14 15
Operating the Choke

The manual choke controls two distinct functions of the SU carburetors. The first third of the travel of the choke cable works the fast idle only. The second two-thirds controls the mixture enrichment, as well as the fast idle. The second function is the mixture enrichment. The colder the engine and surrounding air, the greater the need for more gasoline to be mixed with the air at the carburetor. As the engine warms, the need for a richer mixture lessens. When starting from cold, always pull the choke completely out. Once the engine has started, the driver must gradually release the choke as the engine warms. If released too soon, the engine will cough and spit, especially under acceleration. If released too slowly, the engine will run rough, especially while idling. By the time the temperature approaches 160F, the choke can be released completely. If the choke is left out too long, the extra gasoline can mix with the engine oil by washing down the cylinder walls. If your choke does not seem to be operating correctly, consult your workshop manual or our tech tip on mixture adjustment on page 15 of this catalog.
MGA water pumps incorporate a carbon race seal design which must be perfectly lapped against the impeller to insure a leak-free seal. For best results, new pumps should be installed and then run dry for approximately 30 seconds without coolant. Modern antifreeze mixtures are so efficient that they prevent the friction necessary to break in the seal. 17 460-950 460-960 460-965 20 21 22 23 25 28 29 30 31 296-320 460-920 460-930 322-230 321-598 460-990 460-940 296-380 434-180 434-189 434-190 328-605 $39.95 NA $10.95 $1.65 $39.95 $67.95 $0.30 $0.50 $4.95 $29.50 $0.60 $4.95 $4.95 $4.95 $0.85 WATER PUMP, less pulley REPAIR KIT SEAL, rear GASKET, pump to body PULLEY FAN BOLT, fan to pulley BOLT & NUT SET FAN BELT ELBOW, water outlet GASKET THERMOSTAT, 165 THERMOSTAT, 180 THERMOSTAT, 195 STUD, thermostat housing all except Twin Cam 1
single bearing pump only 1 from (e)GB39365 1 1 1 1 4 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 3
hot climates/summer standard cold climates/winter
Fan Shroud
Significantly reduce overheating problems with the missing link of your MGAs cooling system. This sturdy unit attaches to your existing radiator mounts, and greatly increases the efficiency of the fan by forcing air to be pulled through the radiator instead of around it. 459-645 $49.95
32
An overtightened fan belt will ruin the generator and water pump bearings, and will eventually loosen the crank pulley rivets. Refer to workshop manual.

13
MGA
Carburetors
0
Twin Cam carburetors are shown on pages 16-17.

No. Part No. Price (each) Description Application Qty. Req. No. Part No. Price (each) Description Application Qty. Req.
1 2 3 4 5
370-778 $899.95 370-788 $899.95 372-545 $2.95 375-048 $5.05 370-730 $169.95 370-180 $1.55 370-745 370-740 370-765 370-750 $27.45 $19.95 $21.95 $10.95
CARBURETOR PAIR, new 1500 CARBURETOR PAIR. new 1600 & 1622 BUSH, in carb. body PIN ASSEMBLY CHAMBER AND PISTON ASSEMBLY SCREW, jet needle retaining DAMPER, brass cap w/o vent 1500 DAMPER, repl. plastic cap w/o vent DAMPER, brass cap w/vent DAMPER, repl. plastic cap w/vent 1600 & 1622
1 1 4 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 6 6 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 4 4 4 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1
28 29 30 31
370-690 $13.95 LEVER, rear 378-240 $6.95 UNION, vacuum line 370-630 $8.45 LINK 325-110 $1.90 PIN, with hole for cotter pin 325-115 $0.55 PIN, no hole, uses starlock washer #328-270 NOTE: Application and use of these two pins varies. Officially, the pin using the starlock washer was used from engine # 16GA31660. 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 375-078* 370-570 370-450 370-460 370-580 376-030 376-040 370-370 370-090 370-590 370-610 370-620 370-600 365-610 365-630 370-300 370-560 370-190 370-340 370-330 370-110 372-170 372-180 372-190 372-200 372-210 311-230 $0.95 $19.95 $4.95 $0.90 $8.95 $13.95 $13.95 $9.95 $0.65 $10.95 $3.95 $4.80 $10.95 $1.20 $0.55 $18.90 $20.95 $1.35 $1.65 $0.70 $10.45 $0.80 $0.65 $8.95 $0.95 $0.95 $0.65 PIN SET (8 cotter pins) CAM BOLT SPRING LINK THROTTLE SHAFT, standard THROTTLE SHAFT, oversize DISC, throttle SCREW SPRING ANCHOR SPRING, front SPRING, rear END CLIP SCREW NUT STOP LEVER PIN SCREW SPRING LEVER BOLT WASHER BANJO BOLT WASHER, upper WASHER, lower NUT
1 1 2 A/R A/R
6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25
370-650* $0.60 370-520 $2.95 370-360 $1.10 370-290 $0.95 324-110 $0.10 370-760* $9.95 370-395 $29.95 370-240 $2.65 370-210 $1.10 370-400 $3.35 370-220* $2.65 295-000* $1.10 370-410* $1.05 370-390 $7.65 295-200* $1.35 365-420 $0.75 370-230* $1.05 370-070 $2.75 370-380 $8.95 370-250* $1.00 374-120* $8.95 374-040 $13.95 374-160 $13.95 374-170* $9.95 374-150 $12.95 374-010 $8.95
WASHER, damper SPRING WASHER (used with original tapered-end springs only) SCREW LOCK WASHER JET, .090 JET BEARING KIT NUT, jet adjusting SPRING NUT WASHER CORK SEAL COPPER WASHER JET BEARING, bottom JET SEAL, cork O-RING (replacement for #20 cork seal, not in #12) WASHER SPRING JET BEARING, top WASHER NEEDLE, GS standard NEEDLE, CC rich NEEDLE, 4 lean NEEDLE, 6 standard NEEDLE, RO rich NEEDLE, AO lean SPRING, jet lever return LEVER, front
(fit to worn bodies)
1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 4 2 1 1 2 2 2 1 1 2 3 3 1 1 2 2 2 2 2
late type alternative to #75 - 76
1500
1600 & 1622
26 27 14
370-550 370-680
$3.45 $13.95
1-800-667-7872
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
Carburetors
Complete Carburetor Rebuild
Rebushing carburetor bodies and fitting new throttle shafts is a major part of a proper carb rebuild that is often overlooked. Vacuum leaks due to worn bodies and shafts cause rough idle, poor performance and poor fuel economy. Checking the shaft and body clearance is a simple matter of wiggling the shafts up and down. Any appreciable play indicates wear on the bushings and shafts. Some wear is to be expected, but performance is seriously affected when clearances are over .010". Verification is done with the engine running at idle speed. Spray the joints of the shafts with an aerosol carburetor cleaner. If the engine stumbles, there is a leak around the shafts.
58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69
370-480 $89.95 370-470 $89.95 370-150 $4.05 370-130* $0.80 451-250 $14.50 370-160* $0.60 375-068 $78.95 375-058 $78.95 370-060* $0.65 370-170* $5.95 371-030 $2.75 294-900* $0.95 371-060* $9.75 386-390 $5.95 370-010 370-270 370-140 370-350 370-650* 370-080 370-030 $24.95 $3.80 $9.95 $5.50 $0.60 $6.95 $1.05
70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 79a 80 81 82 83 84 85 86
FLOAT CHAMBER, front FLOAT CHAMBER, rear CAP NUT WASHER, aluminum OVERFLOW PIPE WASHER, fiber COVER, front, with lever COVER, rear, with lever PIN LEVER for original lids LEVER for replacement lids GASKET, cover NEEDLE & SEAT GROSE JET, superior replacement for original style needle & seat FLOAT SCREEN BANJO BANJO BOLT, lid WASHER BANJO BOLT, mounting WASHER RUBBER WASHER LINK NUT SPRING WASHER TRUNNION COUPLING KIT SPACER, carb. to manifold WASHER, plain WASHER, starlock (small) WASHER, starlock (large) PIN, link alternative to #53 - 57
1 1 2 2 2 2 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 2 4 2 2 4 1 2 2 1 1 2 1 3 A/R 1
If you can wiggle your throttle shafts an appreciable amount, they probably need to be replaced or the carb body rebushed.
370-020* $1.95 370-660 $5.95 310-040 $0.15 324-185 $0.70 370-670 $4.95 375-028 $36.80 372-030 $4.95 370-640 $1.55 378-265 $0.55 378-270 $0.60 371-090 $7.40
Spray carb cleaner here - if your idle speed increases, your throttle shafts leak. Quite often, the problem can be fixed by simply replacing the throttle shafts. Remove the couplings and springs from the shafts and clean the exposed portions of the shafts. Mark the butterfly plates with a felt-tip pen to record which way they face and which end is installed upwards, then remove the two securing screws. Pull the plates out, and slide the shafts sideways until a clean unworn section of the shaft is in each side of the body. Now wiggle them up and down and back to front to gauge whether any play is present. If none, a new pair of standard shafts should solve the problem. Oversize shafts (if not already fitted) can be purchased to take up a small amount of play. Standard shafts measure .310", while the oversize shafts are appropriately larger. (Not all oversize shafts are exactly the same size.) If the bodies and shafts are both worn, the carb bodies require rebushing. To rebush bodies, the old bushes (or the bodies, if your carbs dont have bushes) must be drilled out, just short of entering the venturi to a diameter just smaller than the bush diameter. Since each side of the carb must be drilled separately, accurate alignment of the two holes is difficult to maintain. We have found that an easy way to do this is to chuck the proper sized drill in a lathe, and run the carb body into the drill with the tailstock center. New bushes (#372-545) are then pressed into the bodies, and reamed to fit the new spindles with the minimum clearance which allows rotation of the spindle. This is best accomplished with a 5/16" adjustable reamer with a pilot long enough to ride in the opposing bush. Sometimes it is necessary to lap the spindle in the bushes. This is done by chucking the spindle in a hand drill and running it dry in the reamed bushes. Do not use any abrasive compound; the dark oxide that is formed will be enough. Add a drop of oil, and continue until the shaft rotates freely in the bushes. Refit the butterfly plates and drill the shaft for the adjusting levers, drill the taper pin holes with the throttle completely closed. The drilling is best done from the underside on a drill press with the parts clamped in a jig. The hole must be drilled exactly on center or the shaft will be spoiled. After reinstallation of the throttle plates and return springs, the rest of the carburetor rebuild is routine. Keep in mind the throttle plates must be centralized before the screws are tightened. If all of this seems rather complex, it is. Rebushing carburetors takes patience, specialized tools, and experience. The easiest alternative for the average enthusiast is to buy a pair of new carburetors from Moss Motors.
early type
(see note under illus. #31)
Rebuild Kits
375-518 $119.90 375-238 $89.95 375-248 $89.95 298-228 $17.95 294-700* $1.05 294-800* $0.75 386-400 $2.85 408-470 $2.50 408-475 $6.45 408-490 $2.50 MASTER REBUILD KIT, includes items marked CARB. REBUILD KIT, 1500, includes items marked * CARB. REBUILD KIT, 1600/MKII, includes items marked * CARB. GASKET SET, includes items marked GASKET, carb. mounting GASKET, air cleaner mounting JET ADJUSTING WRENCH CARB. I.D. TAG (AUC 784) 1500 CARB. I.D. TAG (AUC 943) 1600 & MKII CARB I.D. TAG (AUC877) Twin Cam 1 1 1 1 6 2 1 2 2 2
88 89 90
Master rebuild kit is a genuine S.U. kit which does not include metering needles, as one kit is suitable for several applications. Order appropriate needles separately.
SU Carburetor Choke Adjustment

Mixture adjustment and synchronization of SUs seems to be widely understood. Of equal importance is the adjustment of the choke mechanism. If set too rich, the carb. will fill the cylinders with raw fuel and dilute the engine oil, causing premature bearing, piston ring, and cylinder wear. If set too lean, the car starts hard, which drains the battery and overheats the owner. Of first consideration is the fit of the clevis pins in the choke levers. If these holes are excessively worn, the chokes will not operate through their entire range. New levers (#370680 & #370-690) and clevis pins (#325-110) are the cure for this problem. Once the new parts are fitted, adjust the slack out of the choke linkage at the interconnector link. Slacken the top and bottom so the linkage is relaxed, then tighten the bottom nut so that just a bit of pressure is brought to bear on the lever. Do not overcompensate, as this will preload the chokes and cause over-rich mixtures. Once set to your satisfaction, run the top nut in the bottom as a lock nut. Now, hook up the choke cable. Give it a turn to the right to help the cable lock work, and dont get the cable too tight; leave a little slack. The fast idle cam may be adjusted to suit weather conditions by moving the link rod to the appropriate hole. #1 opens the butterfly a small amount slowly. #3 opens it a large amount quickly. #3 is intended for colder weather, #1 for warmer climates. Yours may be set at #2, where the majority were set to begin with. If so, you may want to leave it alone, as the #2 setting seems to work in just about any climate. The fast idle screw should be set last of all and should be backed off completely when setting the idle, and synchronizing the carburetors. Set the screw so it is about about 1/32 shy of the cam. Smear a dab of light grease on the cam face. If the idle screws do not hold their setting, new springs are in order.

15
MGA
Carburetors - Twin Cam

0

16
1-800-667-7872
Carburetors - Twin Cam

370-798 $799.95 CARBURETOR PAIR, new 372-545 $2.95 BUSH, in carb. body 375-048 $5.05 PIN ASSEMBLY 370-850 NA CHAMBER AND PISTON ASSEMBLY 370-180 $1.55 SCREW, jet needle retaining 370-765 $21.95 DAMPER, brass cap w/vent 370-750 $10.95 DAMPER, repl. plastic cap w/vent 6 370-650* $0.60 WASHER, damper 7 370-520 $2.95 SPRING 8 370-360 $1.10 WASHER (used with older tapered-end springs only) 9 370-290 $0.95 SCREW 10 324-110 $0.10 LOCK WASHER 11 378-350* $11.95 JET, .100 12 370-395 $29.95 JET BEARING KIT 13 370-240 $2.65 NUT, jet adjusting 14 370-210 $1.10 SPRING 15 370-400 $3.35 NUT 16 370-220 $2.65 WASHER 17 295-000* $1.10 CORK SEAL 18 370-410* $1.05 COPPER WASHER 19 370-390 $7.65 JET BEARING, bottom 20 295-200* $1.35 JET SEAL, cork 365-420 $0.75 O-RING (replacement for #20 cork seal, not in #12) 21 370-230* $1.05 WASHER 22 370-070 $2.75 SPRING 23 370-380 $8.95 JET BEARING, top 24 370-250* $1.00 WASHER 25 374-220 $8.95 JET NEEDLE, RH, rich 021-077 $8.95 JET NEEDLE, 0A6, standard 021-076 $8.95 JET NEEDLE, 0A7, lean 26 370-550 $3.45 SPRING, jet lever return 27 370-680 $13.95 LEVER, rear 28 370-690 $13.95 LEVER, front 30 370-630 $8.45 LINK 31 325-110 $1.90 PIN, with hole for cotter pin 32 325-115 $0.55 PIN, no hole, uses starlock washer #328-270 NOTE: Application and use of these two pins varies. 1 2 3 4 5 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 45 46 47 48 49 50 53 54 55 56 57 58 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 375-078* 378-270 370-570 370-450 370-460 370-580 370-640 372-500 372-510 378-220 370-090 370-590 370-610 370-620 370-600 365-610 365-630 365-620 370-300 370-560 370-190 370-340 370-330 370-110 $0.95 $0.60 $19.95 $4.95 $0.90 $8.95 $1.55 $13.95 $13.95 $10.65 $0.65 $10.95 $3.95 $4.80 $10.95 $1.20 $0.55 $0.35 $18.90 $20.95 $1.35 $1.65 $0.70 $10.45 NA NA $0.80 $0.20 $0.10 $0.55 NA $14.95 PIN SET (8 cotter pins) WASHER, starlock (large) CAM, fast idle BOLT SPRING LINK WASHER, plain THROTTLE SHAFT, standard THROTTLE SHAFT, oversize DISC, throttle SCREW SPRING ANCHOR SPRING, rear SPRING, front END CLIP SCREW NUT WASHER THROTTLE STOP, front carb THROTTLE STOP, rear carb PIN SCREW SPRING LEVER, throttle COUPLER LEVER, coupler BOLT NUT LOCKWASHER WASHER, plain ROD, coupling COUPLER
1 4 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 6 6 2 2 2 2 2 2 4 2 2 4 4 4 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 2 A/R A/R
70 71 72 73 74 75 76 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 88 89 90 91 92 94 95 96 97
370-660 310-040 324-185 370-670 371-090 378-265 370-080 370-030
$5.95 $0.15 $0.70 $4.95 $7.40 $0.55 $6.95 $1.05
LINK NUT SPRING WASHER TRUNNION WASHER PIN, link WASHER, starlock (small) BANJO BOLT, mounting WASHER, cupped RUBBER WASHER WASHER BANJO BOLT WASHER, upper WASHER, lower NUT
1 2 2 1 1 4 2 2
alternative to #81-85
372-180 372-190 372-200 372-210 311-230
$0.65 $8.95 $0.95 $0.95 $0.65
alternative to #78-79
2 2 2 2 2 1 1 2 2 2 2 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 2 4
370-480 $89.95 370-470 $89.95 370-150 $4.05 370-130* $0.80 451-250 $14.50 370-160* $0.60 375-068 $78.95 375-058 $78.95 370-060* $0.65 370-170* $5.95 371-030 $2.75 294-900* $0.95 371-060* $9.75 386-390 $5.95 370-010 370-270 370-140 370-350 370-650* $24.95 $3.80 $9.95 $5.50 $0.60
(fit to worn bodies)
372-170 311-030 324-110 373-210 370-517
1 A/R 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 4 2 1 1 2 2 2 1 1 1 2 3 3 1 1 1 3 3 2 2 1 1
98 99 100 101 102
FLOAT CHAMBER, rear FLOAT CHAMBER, front CAP NUT WASHER, aluminum OVERFLOW PIPE WASHER, fiber COVER, rear, with lever COVER, front, with lever PIN LEVER for original lids LEVER for replacement lids GASKET, cover NEEDLE & SEAT GROSE JET, superior replacement for original style needle & seat FLOAT SCREEN BANJO, rear carb. BANJO BOLT, lid WASHER
Rebuild Kits / Gaskets

375-528 $119.90 370-538 NA 698-010 $9.95 696-010* $0.95 696-020* $0.90 386-400 $2.85 408-490 $2.50 MASTER REBUILD KIT, includes items marked REBUILD KIT, includes items marked * GASKET SET, incl. items marked (for 1 carb.) GASKET, carb. mounting GASKET, air cleaner mounting JET ADJUSTING WRENCH CARB. I.D. TAG (AUC877) 1 1 2 2 2 1 2
Master rebuild kit is a genuine S.U. kit which does not include metering needles, as one kit is suitable for several applications. Order appropriate needles separately.

17
MGA
370-020* $1.95
0 Fuel System
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
Pumps
In our many years of experience, weve found that S.U. fuel pumps are normally reliable and give years of trouble-free service. S.U. pumps are still in production and are reasonably priced. More pumps, including SU electronic pumps are listed in our British Accessories Catalog at the front of this publication. 1 377-040 $119.95 FUEL PUMP, new S.U. replacement 1 2 377-120 $6.95 CAP, stepped 1 377-115 $6.95 CAP, flat 1 3 377-110 $9.95 CONDENSER 1 4 377-080 $9.95 POINT SET 1 5 376-995 $22.95 DIAPHRAGM, 2 3/8 stem flat center 1 5a 377-130 $19.95 DIAPHRAGM, 2 3/8 stem stepped center 1 377-140 $19.95 DIAPHRAGM, 3 stem 1 Original pumps varied. S.U. replacements use 377-130. 6 377-100 $0.90 GASKET, body 1 7 377-090 $11.40 SCREEN, filter 1 8 377-150 $7.95 PEDESTAL 1 9 282-015 $8.95 BOOT, fuel pump cover 1 10 375-038 $8.95 ELBOW, 3 - piece assy. 2 11 377-258 $16.95 FUEL PUMP MOUNTING KIT 1 281-148* $2.20 PAD SET, pump mounting 1 15 321-698 $0.50 BOLT AND NUT 2 16 321-688 $0.55 BOLT AND NUT 2 17 321-668 $1.15 BOLT AND NUT 2 18 470-840 $50.90 STRAP, tank mounting 2 19 280-300* $8.95 PACKING, fuel tank straps 1 20 456-800 $284.95 GAS TANK 1 25 470-850 $69.95 EXTENSION, original type 1 26 470-190 $19.95 GAS CAP, original type 1 27 326-730 $3.95 LEVER, gas cap 1 28 470-210 $1.85 SEAL, gas cap (cork) 1 29 280-780* $3.95 FERRULE, extension to body (rubber) 1 30 470-220 $6.55 HOSE, extension to tank 1 31 326-230 $1.75 CLAMP, hose 2 32 282-720* $1.95 SEAL, filler pipe, on trunk floor 1 33 454-090 $21.95 FUEL PIPE, tank to pump 1 * See body rubber sets on pages 32-33. 34 360-280 $76.95 SENDING UNIT, fuel gauge 1 35 293-415 $1.00 GASKET, sending unit 1 36 323-728 $2.15 SCREW SET (six screws) 1 40 454-065 $29.95 FUEL PIPE, pump to flex line 1 41 376-300 $3.45 UNION 1 42 376-350 $18.95 FUEL LINE, pipe to carb. 1 43 370-140 $9.95 BANJO UNION 1 44 376-070 $28.95 FUEL LINE, carb. to carb. 1 Note: These fuel lines are braided stainless steel with a non-aging Teflon interior. 18
45 46
328-280 470-870
$3.80 NA
DRAIN PLUG WASHER, drain plug
1 1
Diagnosing Fuel Pump Problems

Most fuel pump problems are best cured by a direct replacement of the pump. A brief trouble-shooting session will help you determine if a fuel pump is needed, or if you have a problem that can be easily fixed. No click: Check the electrical supply to the pump. Check the ground connection and the fuse. Rap the pump. If the pump starts, the points need replacing or there is a bad electrical connection. Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor. If the pump now works, it is likely that there is a stuck float needle valve. No fuel: If the electrical parts check out okay and the pump either does not click at all, or stops clicking after a brief moment, the delivery line from the tank may be clogged. Check the line and the tank for foreign matter or obstructions. Blow through the delivery lines into the tank. If the pump runs again momentarily, the obstruction is probably in the tank. See that the filter in the pump is clean. Pump wont shut off: If the pump will not shut off, there is an air leak. Air leaks are common at the inlet and outlet elbows. A float needle that is stuck open will also cause the pump to run. This will be immediately evident as fuel will pour out of the overflow. A set of Grose Jets (#386-330, 2 req.) will eliminate this problem. If you choose not to run Grose Jets, see that the overflow tubes are in good condition, as otherwise the fuel will be sprayed over the hot exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe. Occasionally a pump will be able to rid itself of air bubbles. After working on the fuel system, run the pump and loosen the front carburetor connection. Tighten this fitting as the pump runs. This will bleed the fuel system of air.
1-800-667-7872
Clutch
36 37 38 39 40 41 45 46 47 48 49
10 spline 23 spline
Sorting Out Clutch Problems

Clutch problems fall into three categories: a. The clutch does not release properly when the pedal is depressed, resulting in difficult engaging of gears. b. Clutch slip, a condition where the engine speed increases when you give the car gas while in gear, but the car does not speed up accordingly. c. Clutch judder, where the clutch does not take up smoothly as you let the clutch out. Problem a is usually caused by faulty hydraulics. First, check that there is sufficient fluid in the clutch master cylinder. If the level is low, look for leaks at the master cylinder or slave cylinder, and rebuild or replace these cylinders as necessary. If the level is okay and there are no leaks evident, bleed the system to ensure there is no air present. Check that the flexible hose has not deteriorated; watch to see that it does not expand in diameter while a colleague pushes the clutch pedal. If the hydraulics are working properly, the end of the throwout fork arm should travel a minimum of 3/8". If the clutch does not release properly, even though the hydraulics are working correctly, either the throwout bearing is completely worn out (so the pressure plate is not being pushed far enough to release the disc), or the disc itself is hanging up. Either of these problems require that the engine be removed to inspect and remedy the situation. Problems b and c both require that the engine be removed to get at the clutch. Clutch slip results from the disc being worn out or oily, (which also causes judder), or the pressure plate springs being weak. Since getting to the clutch is such a labor-intensive operation, we strongly recommend replacing the disc pressure plate and throwout bearing if you have a mechanical problem with your clutch. Also, check the clutch lever bushing and pivot bolt and replace if worn. Excess play of the lever will cause premature wear on the throwout bearing. A new throwout bearing has 11/64 of carbon thrust face exposed from the metal body; if yours has 1/8 or less, it should be replaced, too. If your disc has worn so far that the rivets are exposed, check the face of the flywheel for grooves. It must be removed and resurfaced if the surface is scored noticeably.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
MASTER CYLINDER, see page 26 1 190-140 $69.95 CLUTCH DISC, new, 10 splines 1500, 1600 & MKII to (e)3928 MKII from (e)3829 1 1 1 1 3
190-250 2 3 190-120 190-530
$49.95 $99.95 NA
CLUTCH DISC, new, 23 splines PRESSURE PLATE, new RETAINER, release plate
all
MGA starters have a habit of chewing up the flywheel ring gear. While replacing a clutch, always check the ring gear for damage to the teeth, and have your machine shop install a new one if significant damage is present. 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 14 15 16 17 18 190-290 190-295 310-070 310-240 190-555 190-550 190-545 190-540 330-290 330-200 190-310 322-540 180-720 180-960 180-390 324-740 180-050 $16.95 $31.95 $0.75 $0.60 NA $8.75 NA NA $2.30 $2.25 $0.95 $0.75 $59.95 $4.30 $7.95 $0.80 $25.95 RELEASE BEARING, stock type (carbon faced) 1 RELEASE BEARING, ball bearing type (heavy duty replacement) 1 NUT 1500 to (e)4524 1 NUT from (e)4525 thru MKII 1 BOLT 1500 to (e)4524 1 BOLT from (e)4525 thru MKII 1 LEVER, clutch release 1500 to (e)4524 1 LEVER, clutch release from (e)4525 thru MKII 1 BUSHING, in lever 1500 to (e)4524 1 BUSHING, in lever from (e)4525 thru MKII 1 RETAINER, release bearing 2 BOLT, plate to flywheel 6 SLAVE CYLINDER 1 REPAIR KIT 1 BANJO BOLT WASHER, large copper BANJO 1 1 1
1500 to (c)11767

19
MGA
19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31
324-720 322-670 324-040 180-080 325-140 180-200 365-720 461-010 180-820 324-720 324-180 311-420 181-210 181-215 180-390 324-740 180-050 324-720 180-400 324-730 325-150 330-180 329-350 280-770 387-250 387-210
$0.95 $0.75 $0.15 $2.15 $0.85 $12.95 $0.25 $5.95 $16.50 $0.95 $0.30 $1.70 $17.95 NA $7.95 $0.80 $25.95 $0.95 $8.95 $0.35 $0.90 $3.35 $2.45 $2.95 $3.95 $3.95
WASHER, small copper BOLT, cylinder to gearbox WASHER BLEEDER CLEVIS PIN PUSH ROD WASHER BOOT, clutch lever HOSE, clutch WASHER, copper LOCK WASHER NUT PIPE, master cylinder to hose PIPE, master cylinder to hose BANJO BOLT WASHER, large copper BANJO FITTING WASHER, small copper ADAPTOR, slave cylinder pipe WASHER, copper CLEVIS PIN PEDAL BUSH SPRING, pedal return PEDAL PAD, brake & clutch CLUTCH ALIGNMENT TOOL CLUTCH ALIGNMENT TOOL
1500 to (c)11767
LHD only RHD only
1 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1
Gearbox
0
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
310-070 $0.75 310-240 $0.60 190-555 NA 190-550 $8.75 190-545 NA 190-540 NA 330-290 $2.30 330-200 $2.25 328-055 $7.95 296-440 $8.60 328-320 NA 324-830 NA 461-010 $5.95 461-020 $22.95 461-000* NA 461-030 120-300 NA $3.25
NUT 1500 to (e)4524 NUT from (e)4525 thru MKII BOLT 1500 to (e)4524 BOLT from (e)4525 thru MKII LEVER, clutch release 1500 to (e)4524 LEVER, clutch release from (e)4525 thru MKII BUSHING, in lever 1500 to (e)4524 BUSHING, in lever from (e)4524 thru MKII PLUG, oil drain GEARBOX GASKET SET (does not include oil seals) PLUG, blanking WASHER, for #328-320 plug BOOT, clutch lever DIPSTICK FRONT COVER to (G)A8010 FRONT COVER OIL SEAL, input shaft from (G)A8011 on
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1
30 32 34 35 36 39 40 41 42 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 56 57 60 61 62 64 66 67 68 69 70 71 72
12
15 18 19 20 21 22
* Early cars had no oil seal, later cover and seal may be retro-fitted. 461-040 NA SIDE PLATE 323-290 NA SCREW, countersunk 461-050 $0.40 WASHER 461-060* NA BUSH, sliding spline mainshaft non-flanged mainshaft * This bush must be honed to size after installation. 121-000 $32.95 SEAL, thick steel/rubber/felt, external 1500 to (c)20752 120-400 $8.95 SEAL, thin steel/rubber, internal 1500 from (c)20753 to end of GB engine
1 3 3 1 1
1 1 1 1 1 1 1
23 24 25 26 27 28 20
121-100 127-800 326-160 461-800 324-100 310-570
$8.95 $23.95 NA NA $0.40 $3.15
SEAL, flanged type mainshaft BEARING, flanged type mainshaft CLIP FLANGE LOCK WASHER NUT
from GD engine on
460-000 322-220 267-040 461-080 461-090 327-030 461-100 461-110 326-170 461-120 461-760 310-080 461-130 329-520 329-240 461-150 461-140 461-160 461-170 461-180 461-190 461-200 461-770 461-210 461-220 461-230 461-240 461-250 461-260 461-270 127-200 326-180 461-280 461-290
NA $0.25 $2.75 NA NA $0.70 NA $2.95 NA NA NA $0.15 $49.95 $0.30 $0.55 $39.95 NA NA $21.95 NA $19.95 NA $1.95 NA NA NA NA NA $11.95 $2.95 $38.55 NA $0.75 $0.80
COVER BOLT BREATHER SHAFT, remote control LEVER, front selector KEY LEVER, rear selector BUSHING, nylon replacement CLIP FORK, 1st & 2nd gear LOCK BOLT NUT, for #461-760 lock bolt SHAFT, 1st & 2nd fork BALL SPRING FORK, 3rd & 4th gear TUBE, spacing (on shaft #53) SHAFT, 3rd & 4th fork FORK, reverse gear SHAFT, reverse gear fork BLOCK, shaft locating SELECTOR, 1st & 2nd gear LOCK BOLT SELECTOR, 3rd & 4th gear SELECTOR, reverse gear ARM ASSEMBLY, interlock SHAFT, input, 10 clutch splines SHAFT, input, 23 clutch splines NUT LOCK WASHER BEARING, input shaft CLIP SHIM, .002 SHIM, .004
1 6 1 1 1 4 1 1 for original brass bushing 1 1 3 3 1 3 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 3 1 1 1 1500, 1600 & early MKII 1 MKII from (e)16GC3929 1 1 1 1 1 A/R A/R
from GD engine on
1-800-667-7872
Gearbox
73 74
442-298 451-365 451-375
$18.50 NA NA
ROLLER SET MAINSHAFT, sliding joint type MAINSHAFT, sliding joint type
1500 to (c)20752
1 1
1500 from (c)20753; (G) A101 to end of GB eng. 1 from GD engine on 1 1 1
451-370 $249.95 74a NA 75 461-300 $0.70
MAINSHAFT, flanged type SPACER, mainshaft RESTRICTOR
The factory manual recommends 30 wt. engine oil for MGA gearboxes. Heavier oil will slow the gear change but its use is acceptable to quiet noisy gears. Use 40 or 50 wt. oil. 76 461-310 461-320 461-330 461-340 461-350 329-250 127-900 461-360 461-370 461-380 461-395 461-405 461-425 461-385 461-365 461-410 310-570 461-355 461-410 461-410 $3.45 NA NA $4.50 NA NA $29.95 $23.20 NA NA NA NA NA NA NA NA $3.15 $0.65 NA NA WASHER, .157 WASHER, .159 WASHER, .161 THRUST WASHER, rear PEG, front thrust washer SPRING BEARING, mainshaft HOUSING PEG SPACER NUT LOCK WASHER GEAR, speedo drive NUT LOCK WASHER GEAR, speedo drive NUT LOCK WASHER GEAR, speedo drive GEAR, speedo drive A/R A/R A/R 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86
1500 to (c)20752
1500 from (c)20753 or (G)A101 to end of GB engine 1500 from (e) GD101
1600 & MKII
115 461-600 461-610 461-620 461-630 116 461-640 117 461-780 118 461-650 119 461-660 120 330-170 121 321-598 125 325-060 127 443-065 128 461-680 129 311-180 130 461-690 131 325-100 132 443-070 133 443-080 134 443-090 135 461-700 136 329-270 137 461-710 139 329-520 140 329-240 143 322-460 145 460-150 146 324-770 147 443-030 148 329-010 149 329-510 150 461-730 151 461-740 152 461-750 156 280-760 157 326-480 158 413-040 159 322-698
$9.95 $9.95 $9.95 $9.95 NA $2.25 $1.20 $39.95 NA $0.50 $0.65 $69.95 $9.95 $2.40 NA $4.00 $7.95 $6.45 $1.95 NA $1.25 NA $0.30 $0.55 $0.50 NA $1.25 $5.25 $1.00 $0.60 NA NA NA $8.95 $3.95 $12.95 $3.85
THRUST WASHER, rear .155 THRUST WASHER, rear .157 THRUST WASHER, rear .160 THRUST WASHER, rear .163 SHAFT, reverse gear LOCK BOLT, reverse shaft TAB WASHER REVERSE GEAR BUSHING BOLT & NUT, gearbox to engine PIN GEARSHIFT LEVER GEARSHIFT KNOB, reproduction of original NUT, chrome plated PLATE PIN SPRING RETAINER CIRCLIP PLUNGER, reverse selector SPRING, plunger PLUG, plunger BALL, plunger SPRING, plunger BOLT, long CAP, remote damper WASHER PLUNGER SPRING BALL SHAFT, remote control LEVER, front LEVER, rear GEARSHIFT BOOT CHROME RING REAR GEARBOX MOUNT BOLT AND NUT, rear mount
A/R A/R A/R A/R 1 1 1 1 1 7 2 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
The MGA rear oil seal changed three times. The first tailpieces were fitted with an internal flush seal made up of steel and rubber. The later, and by far most common 1500s used a flanged seal that mounted over the tailpiece end. The last change incorporated an internal flush fit seal similar to the first. Some care is needed to determine which seal is appropriate for your car, as the parts found in any particular MGA today are not always the same parts with which the car left the factory. 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 96 97 98 327-010 $0.50 461-430 NA 461-440 NA 461-445 $5.95 461-460 NA 324-820 NA 461-470 $229.95 461-480 $44.95 329-550 329-260 461-490 461-495 99 461-500 $1.10 $2.80 $28.95 NA $68.95 KEY PINION, speedo drive PINION HOUSING SEAL, pinion RING WASHER FIRST GEAR ASSY., with hub SECOND GEAR, improved type (use with #461-495 synchro ring only) BALL SPRING SYNCHRO RING, 2nd gear, brass (use with original gear only) SYNCHRO RING, 2nd gear, steel (use with #461-480 gear only) BUSHING, 2nd gear 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Laygear shafts for early gearboxes are subject to excessive wear and can cause expensive problems. If pitted bearing wear causes the laygear to seize. Removal and replacement of the layshaft is not difficult when the transmission is out for a clutch job. Proceed as follows: With the gearbox standing on its end and adequately supported, remove the gearbox front cover plate. This leaves the end of the layshaft exposed, and it can then be pulled straight up and out for inspection. Do not tilt the gearbox until the layshaft has been replaced, or realignment of the laygear and various thrust washers may be very difficult. If, upon inspection, the layshaft is heavily pitted, a complete teardown is recommended, as the laygear roller bearings will also be excessively worn. The ideal situation is to replace the layshaft just before it starts pitting. Its also a good idea to replace the 1st motion shaft seal (Moss #120-300).
6 6 1 1 1
MGA Gearbox Rear Oil Seal Type Identification

Use this diagram to determine the type of rear oil seal you need before ordering. Note that the dimension A is the outside diameter of the tailshaft housing. early 1500 (cup type) A=2 1/2 part #121-000
Another source of lost motion is worn pedal clevises, and the slave cylinder rod and clevis. These should be replaced when wear becomes apparent, as a relatively small amount of movement works the entire system. 100 101 102 103 104 108 109 111 110 113 114 461-510 $99.95 461-520 $29.90 461-530 $41.75 461-540 $10.95 461-550 $69.95 461-560 $25.95 461-570 $269.95 461-580 $6.25 461-878 $46.95 326-190 $0.75 461-590 $9.95 THIRD GEAR SYNCHRO RING, 3rd & 4th gear BUSHING, 3rd gear RING, interlocking SLIDING HUB AND DOG ASSEMBLY 1 SHAFT, laygear LAYGEAR TUBE, bearing spacer BEARING KIT CIRCLIP THRUST WASHER, front 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 3 1
mid 1500 A=2 1/8 part #120-400
late 1500 & all 1600 A=3 1/4 part #121-100

21
MGA
0 Front Suspension
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
264-160 264-170 264-670 264-680
NA NA NA NA
STEERING KNUCKLE, R/H STEERING KNUCKLE, L/H STEERING KNUCKLE, R/H STEERING KNUCKLE, L/H
1500 to (c)54246
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 4 4 1 4 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 8 8 1 1 1 1 12 8 2 2
from (c)54247
2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18
264-220 $112.50 264-230 $112.50 264-180 $104.50 264-190 $104.50 264-200 $104.50 264-210 $104.50 330-140* $6.90 328-210 $0.30 281-388* $12.95 328-550 $1.50 264-570 NA 264-575 NA 264-700 NA 264-560 NA 264-565 NA 264-690 NA 327-060 $0.60 310-400 $0.85 310-500 $1.55 264-120 $8.60 264-080 120-600 125-500 264-090 125-400 264-550 264-745 264-750 264-760 264-770 $24.95 $3.95 $20.40 $20.85 $14.95 NA NA NA $8.95 $2.05
SWIVEL PIN, R/H SWIVEL PIN, L/H LINK, top R/H LINK, top L/H LINK, bottom R/H LINK, bottom L/H BUSHING PLUG SEAL SET, 4 pin seals, 8 link seals GREASE NIPPLE LEVER, L/H 1500 to (c)54246 LEVER, L/H 1500 from (c)54247 LEVER, L/H 1600 & MKII LEVER, R/H 1500 to (c)54246 LEVER, R/H 1500 from (c)54247 LEVER, R/H 1600 & MKII KEY NUT 1500 to (c)54246 NUT from (c)54247 on CAPdisc wheel SPACER OIL SEAL BEARING, inner SPACER BEARING, outer HUB, disc wheel HUB, disc wheel HUB, disc wheel STUD LUGNUT HUB, wire wheel, R/H HUB, wire wheel, L/H HUB, wire wheel, R/H HUB, wire wheel, L/H STUD BOLT, hub to disc RETAINER, grease WHEEL NUT, wire wheel, R/H
33 34 35 37 38 40 41 42
43 44 46 47 49 50 51 52 54 55 56
200-220 $31.95 NA 264-280 $62.95 264-020 $14.95 321-578 $5.60 454-990 NA 280-605 $5.75 324-450 $4.05 311-450 $2.95 311-460 $4.35 264-800 $194.95 264-805 $84.95 $40.00 264-530 $1.15 310-050 $0.45 264-070* $3.95 324-510* $1.15 264-010* $0.85 264-100 $43.95 264-390 $29.95 321-568* $6.95 310-405* $0.95 264-270 $79.95 321-618 $1.00 281-398* $8.95 280-498 $14.95
all except Twin Cam and MKII DeLuxe
19 20 27
1500 1600 to (c)69504 1600 from (c)69505 & MKII all disc wheel
57 58 59 59a 60 61 62
264-510 $0.95 310-410 $1.00 321-558* $5.60 310-405* $0.95 264-290 $15.95 264-060 $5.95 264-358 $119.95 264-348 $114.95 281-768 $59.95
WHEEL NUT, wire wheel, L/H Note: 1 SPRING PAN WISHBONE ARM, lower BOLT & NUT SET (8), wishbone arms to spring pans ANTI-SWAY BAR ASSY. BUSH, swaybar WASHER NUT, R/H (r/h thread) NUT, L/H (l/h thread) SHOCK ABSORBER, front, new SHOCK ABSORBER, rebuilt, exchange CORE CHARGE FOR 264-805 SHOCK ABSORBER STUD NUT STEEL TUBE THRUST WASHER SEAL SUPPORT COIL SPRING all except Twin Cam & MKII De Luxe COIL SPRING Twin Cam & MKII DeLuxe BOLT & NUT, upper NUT, castellated PIVOT BOLT & NUT BUSHING SET (8) as original BUSHING SET, heavy-duty rubber/steel bush set as fitted to MGB V8s, recommended. (Incl. in major suspension kit #264-348.) WASHER NUT BOLT & NUT, lower NUT, castellated REBOUND BUFFER SPACER, rebound buffer MAJOR SUSPENSION KIT includes all * items MAJOR SUSPENSION KIT includes all * items, with heavy-duty MGB V8 lower bushes, instead of stock bushes. SUSPENSION RUBBER KIT includes all items on this page and page 25.
2 2 4 1 1 2 2 1 1 2 2 8 8 4 8 8 2 2 2 2 2 8 1
1 4 4 2 2 2 2 1 1 1
264-300 $149.95 264-310 $149.95 264-740 $149.95 264-735 $149.95
1500
1600 & MKII
28 29 30 22
264-140 264-400 264-410 200-210
$4.95 $2.95 NA $31.95
1500 1600 & MKII
1-800-667-7872
Steering
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 41 42 43 48
263-100 NA 263-140 NA 262-030 $3.45 263-160 NA 262-190 $11.95 263-020 $4.95 262-120 $1.75 262-090 $10.20 263-040 $1.20 263-060 $0.50 324-780 $2.15 263-050 NA 263-150 NA 262-170 $54.95 262-100 NA 262-160 $96.95 262-130 $1.09 262-140 NA 262-150 $1.10 310-490 $1.15 262-110 $5.95 263-170 NA 263-220 NA 262-040 NA 262-230 NA 262-010 $2.40 262-020 $3.25 322-040 $0.50 263-010 $9.50 263-230 $1.40 262-200 $0.75 263-288 $27.95 262-220 $2.85 262-210 $2.00 263-240 NA 324-580 $0.10 310-320 $0.80 328-550 $1.50 328-550 $1.50 263-130 $1.95 321-588 $2.50 263-090 $89.95 263-260 $15.95 321-598 $0.50 263-250 $174.95
RACK & PINION ASSY., left hand drive RACK HOUSING LHD only SEAL, pinion shaft RACK LHD only PAD, rack damper SPRING, rack damper SHIM, .003 CAP, rack damper PAD, secondary rack damper SPRING, secondary rack damper WASHER, secondary rack damper CAP, secondary rack damper TIE ROD BALL HOUSING, male BALL SEAT BALL HOUSING, female SHIM, .003 SHIM, .005 SHIM, .010 LOCK NUT, tie rod LOCK WASHER PINION LHD only THRUST WASHER, upper THRUST WASHER, lower PINION BEARING CAP SHIM, .005 SHIM, .007 BOLT RACK SEAL CLAMP, large CLAMP, small TIE ROD END, pair BOOT CLIP RING WASHER NUT, nyloc GREASE NIPPLE GREASE NIPPLE, rack tube SHIM, steering rack assy. to brackets BOLT SET, 4 nuts & bolts COUPLING JOINT ASSY. U-JOINT BOLT & NUT SET STEERING WHEEL, original type
1 1 1 1 1 1 A/R 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 A/R A/R A/R 2 2 1 1 1 1 A/R A/R 2 2 2 2 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 A/R 1 1 1 2 1
49 50 51 52 53 54 58 59 60
263-110 263-200 263-080 263-120 263-300 321-608 263-310
$27.65 $0.50 $4.65 $13.95 $3.50 $0.85 $3.25 NA $8.20 $5.10 $9.10 NA NA $3.95 $9.95 NA $16.95 $4.25
CENTERPIECE, as original CLIP NUT, wheel to shaft CLAMP DISTANCE PIECE BOLT AND NUT SEAL, column & blanking plate OUTER TUBE FELT BUSH, upper FELT BUSH, upper FELT BUSH, lower SHAFT SHAFT KEY CHROME CLAMP, w/ bolt & nut INNER TUBE CHROME SPRING COVER CAP, for cover adjustable column
1 4 1 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
260-170 260-190 260-160 263-065 263-070 327-080 263-320 262-250 262-240
61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68
non-adjustable column all non-adjustable column
adjustable column
Front End Rebuild

The four trunnion bushes (#330-140) must be pressed into the trunnions and reamed to size. If you are not equipped with a press and reamer, it is advisable to leave this job to a reliable machinist. Hammering the new bush into the trunnion will distort it and may crack the trunnion itself. Never attempt to remove or replace the trunnions with the tubes (#264-070) in place. Damage to swivel pin threads will result if you do. The lower link bolt holes in the wishbone arms (#264-020) must not be worn oval. Extra play introduced by this condition causes premature tire wear and makes it impossible to align the front end. Left long enough, this can be dangerous, as the link bolts will have a groove worn in them. The MGA steering rack is to be lubricated with 90 wt. oil, not front end grease. The small pom-pom gun that is in so much demand by tool collectors is actually an oil gun and is used to fill the rack. (See accessories section for replacement oil gun.) Front end clunks are caused by loose parts such as A-arm pivots, lower trunnion bolts or shock mounting bolts. A sharp cracking noise is sometimes caused by a stone caught under the coil spring in the spring pan.
Moss spring spoke steering wheels are super quality reproductions that are actually better than the factory originals! Our wheels incorporate superior attention to detail and use modern (yet vintage feeling) crack-resistant plastic that is far more durable than the original our centerpiece is also an excellent reproduction! (Centerpiece not included.)

23
MGA
Rear Axle
0
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
267-440* $17.95 267-430* $17.95
NUT, L/H (L/H thread) NUT, R/H (R/H thread)
see note below
1 1/2
22 25
* Note: 1500 to (c)11540 used #267-430 (R/H thread) on both sides. All later cars used one #267-430 on the right side, and one #267-440 on the left side. 2 3 4 267-450 319-060 267-040 $1.50 $2.95 $2.75 TAB WASHER PLUG, oil drain & filler BREATHER 2 2 1
Remember to clean the breather on top of your rear axle housing every so often. (It unscrews from the axle housing.) If it gets clogged, pressure builds up inside the housing, forcing oil past the pinion and hub seals. 5 6 8 9 296-200 267-060 127-700 267-150 267-155 267-160 267-170 267-070 267-080 $0.80 $36.40 $37.50 NA NA NA NA $24.95 NA GASKET DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER BEARING, carrier WASHER, bearing packing, .002 WASHER, bearing packing, .113 WASHER, bearing packing, .004 WASHER, bearing packing, .006 DIFFERENTIAL GEAR 1 1 2 A/R A/R A/R A/R 2
26 27 28 29 30 33 34
35 36
10
1500 (10 spline)
37 38 39
DIFFERENTIAL GEAR 1600 to (c)82892 disc wheel, (26 spline, 1.115 dia.) to (c)82748 wire wheel 2 DIFFERENTIAL GEAR 1600 from (c)82893 disc wheel, (25 spline, 1.075 dia.) from (c)82749 wire wheel THRUST WASHER, differential gear PINION, differential THRUST WASHER, differential pinion AXLE, pinion LOCKING PIN, pinion axle BOLT, crown wheel to carrier TAB WASHER GEAR SET, standard, (4.300:1) GEAR SET, optional, (4.555:1) requires special flange below GEAR SET, optional, (3.909:1) requires special flange below FLANGE for replacement gear sets above only THRUST WASHER, pinion, .126 THRUST WASHER, pinion, .124 THRUST WASHER, pinion, .122 THRUST WASHER, pinion, .120 THRUST WASHER, pinion, .118 THRUST WASHER, pinion, .116 THRUST WASHER, pinion, .114 THRUST WASHER, pinion, .112 PINION BEARING, inner SPACER
267-090
$42.95
2 2 2 2 1 1 8 4 1 1 1 1 A/R A/R A/R A/R A/R A/R A/R A/R 1 1
40 43 44 45 46 47
11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18
19
20 21 24
267-140 $3.00 267-100 $34.95 267-130 $3.10 267-110 $39.95 267-120 NA 320-640 $1.15 267-220 NA 267-180 NA 267-185 $249.95 267-165 $249.95 266-340 $97.50 267-320 NA 267-310 $5.95 267-300 $5.50 267-290 $5.10 267-280 $5.50 267-270 NA 267-260 $5.95 267-250 $5.95 125-600 $39.95 267-230 $7.60
125-805 267-330 267-340 267-345 267-350 267-360 267-370 267-380 120-800 267-240 267-390 324-100 310-570 328-260 453-320 453-340 453-350 267-485 267-480 453-310 453-330 453-360 267-400 267-490 267-410 267-500 264-770 310-300 296-100 121-405 121-400 120-900 127-600 267-420 267-050
$20.55 $1.35 $2.25 $0.95 $0.95 $1.80 $0.70 $1.30 $2.95 NA NA $0.40 $3.15 $0.70 $199.95 $229.95 $186.95 $139.95 $149.95 NA NA $119.95 NA NA $3.45 $8.35 $2.05 $0.75 $0.90 $2.15 $1.95 $3.50 $39.95 $37.95 NA
PINION BEARING, outer SHIM, outer bearing, .004 SHIM, outer bearing, .006 SHIM, outer bearing, .008 SHIM, outer bearing, .010 SHIM, outer bearing, .012 SHIM, outer bearing, .020 SHIM, outer bearing, .030 OIL SEAL, pinion DUST COVER FLANGE WASHER NUT PLUG AXLE, wire wheel AXLE, wire wheel AXLE, wire wheel REAR HUB, R/H wire wheel REAR HUB, L/H wire wheel AXLE, disc wheel-10 spline AXLE, disc wheel-26 spline AXLE, disc wheel-25 spline HUB, disc wheel HUB, wire wheel STUD, disc wheel STUD, wire wheel NUT, disc wheel NUT, brake drum to hub GASKET, rear hub O-RING O-RING OIL SEAL BEARING, hub SPACER HOUSING, differential
1500 1600 to (c)82748 1600 from (c)82749
1500 1600 to (c)82892 1600 from (c)82893
wire wheel 1500 1600
disc wheel
1 A/R A/R A/R A/R A/R A/R A/R 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 8 8 8 8 2 2 2 2 2 2 1
Rear Hub Nut Socket

Your local hardware store or travelling tool salesman wont have this special 8-sided 1 61/64 socket for your rear axle hub nuts. This invaluable tool is a modern and affordable replacement for the hard to find and very expensive Churchill tool #18G152. (Socket has a 3/4 square drive hole, so you will need an adaptor unless you have 3/4 drive tools. 384-905 $27.90
1-800-667-7872
Rear Suspension & Driveshaft
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req. No. Part No. Price (each) Description Application Qty. Req.
Rear Suspension
1 2 2a 3 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 15 16 17 20 454-840 267-510 320-460 321-738 267-520 267-530 310-050 282-858 267-550 267-560 267-570 281-598 267-590 267-600 267-650 267-610 267-620 267-630 267-635 267-625 $67.95 $8.25 $9.05 $2.85 $15.95 $5.30 $0.45 $9.95 $6.95 $8.95 $6.70 $7.75 $28.95 $28.95 $9.45 $8.95 $116.50 $116.50 $84.95 $10.00 $84.95 $10.00 $21.95 $2.00 $59.95 LEAF SPRING SILENTBLOC BUSHING BOLT, spring center BOLT & NUT SHACKLE PIN & PLATE SHACKLE PLATE NUT, shackle & u-bolt BUSHING SET, shackle pins U-BOLT BUFFER PLATE, U-bolt PLATE PAD SET, rubber BRACKET, R/H BRACKET, L/H BUMP RUBBER CHECK STRAP SHOCK, right, original Armstrong SHOCK, left, original Armstrong REBUILT SHOCK, right rebuilt/exchange CORE CHARGE FOR 267-635 REBUILT SHOCK REBUILT SHOCK, left CORE CHARGE FOR 267-625 REBUILT SHOCK SHOCK LINK BOLT WITH NUT, original shock mounting SUSPENSION RUBBER KIT, includes all items marked on this page, and page 22. 2 2 2 2 2 2 20 1 4 2 4 1 1 1 2 2 1 1 1 1
Wheel & Tools

1 2 200-230 $21.95 HUB CAP disc wheel 4 5 5 80 160 240 5 80 160 240 454-610 $159.95 200-328 NA 200-030 $4.75 200-040 $3.95 200-050 $1.20 454-615 $274.95 200-032 $5.85 200-042 $5.85 200-052 $1.35 WIRE WHEEL, painted SPOKE & NIPPLE SET SPOKE, long, outer SPOKE, short, inner NIPPLE 15 x 4, 48 spoke wheels WIRE WHEEL, chrome plated factory option SPOKE, long, outer SPOKE, short, inner NIPPLE
454-620 $159.95 WIRE WHEEL, painted 5 200-070 $4.95 SPOKE, long, outer 100 200-060 $4.95 SPOKE, short, inner 200 200-050 $1.20 NIPPLE 15 x 41/2, 60 spoke wheels 300 454-630 $274.95 WIRE WHEEL, chrome plated optional 5 200-072 $6.05 SPOKE, long, outer 100 200-062 $5.70 SPOKE, short, inner 200 200-052 $1.35 NIPPLE 300 Note: Individual spokes are supplied without nipples, which must be purchased separately. 3 4 5 6 452-750 452-755 200-210 200-220 200-310** 200-320** $10.50 $19.95 $31.95 $31.95 $32.65 $32.65 RIM BAND INNER TUBE wire wheels 155-165/15 tires 5 5 2 2 2 2
21
267-640 322-928 281-768
2 2 1
WHEEL NUT, R/H, eared knock-off WHEEL NUT, L/H, eared knock-off cwire wheels WHEEL NUT, L/H, octagonal knock-off WHEEL NUT, R/H, octagonal knock-off
**Octagonal "safety" knock-offs are required in some countries. Use with spanner #386-030 (illus. #18). 7 9 10 13 14 15 16 17 18 FLANGE 1600 uses 2 BOLT & NUT SET, driveshaft flange U-JOINT GREASE NIPPLE, U-joint YOKE, front 1500 YOKE, front GREASE NIPPLE, yoke SEAL, corks 1600 and MKII WASHER, steel DUST CAP with rubber seal #57 (washer #58 not reqd.) 1/2 1/2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 264-770 $2.05 386-000 $23.95 386-110 $29.95 385-80O $14.95 386-080 $3.90 386-900 $114.95 387-008 $12.00 386-100 $28.95 386-935 $15.95 386-030 $7.95 LUGNUT WHEEL HAMMER, copper-faced, as original, 11/2 lbs. WHEEL HAMMER, copper/rawhide, 2 lbs. SPOKE WRENCH HUB CAP REMOVER JACK, includes 2-piece handle & tommy bar TIRE IRON SET HAND CRANK, faithful repro. of original LUG WRENCH disc wheels SPANNER for octagonal knock-offs 16 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Driveshaft
50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 268-010 $24.95 321-858 $5.25 268-060 $14.95 328-540 $1.60 268-050* NA 268-020 328-530 268-045 268-035 $52.75 $0.85 NA NA $5.25
385-930
$25.15
Jack Bag (not illustrated)
385-940 $7.65 ea.
Tool Roll Strap 2 required.
* Note: Some cars between (c)61037 and 61503 were fitted with the later type yoke and driveshaft. 385-920 $31.45 Tool Roll (tools not included!) 25
MGA
Brake Controls
0
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
MGA brakes are efficient, long-wearing and reliable. However, now that some MGAs are over 40 years old and some cars have been driven hundreds of thousands of miles...dont take the safety of your brakes for granted! Brakes can fail without warning due to an old ruptured brake hose, rusted brake pipe or leaking wheel cylinder. Genuine Lockheed brake components are not very expensive and provide cheap insurance and peace of mind! 1 180-670 $329.95 MASTER CYLINDER, 7/8 bores 1500 1 180-750 $329.95 MASTER CYLINDER, 7/8 bores 1600 & MKII 1 Note: The two master cylinders are identical except for the covers. The 1500 master cylinder, #180-670, includes the correct 1500 cover. Because of Lockheed production changes, the 1600 master cylinder no longer includes the cover, but does come with cover screws and gasket so you can reuse your own. Some cars may be found with Sprite/Midget 3/4 bore master cylinders. Measure your cylinder bores before ordering internal parts! 2 180-970 $11.95 REBUILD KIT 1 3 180-450 $3.45 WASHER, filler cap 1 4 180-210 $2.60 FILLER CAP 1 5 323-500 $1.00 SCREW 7 8 NA COVER 1500 1 9 180-260 NA COVER 1600 & MKII 1 10 180-270 $3.00 GASKET 1 11 180-030 $1.95 SPRING 2 12 NA PISTON 2 13 180-195 NA VALVE, non-return brake side only 1 15 180-020 $1.70 GASKET 1 16 180-010 $39.95 PLATE 1 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 36 37 38 39 40 41 51 26 180-400 324-730 324-720 180-050 324-740 180-390 $8.95 $0.35 $0.95 $25.95 $0.80 $7.95 ADAPTOR, slave cylinder pipe WASHER, copper WASHER, copper, small BANJO WASHER, copper, large BANJO BOLT 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 4 2 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 1 2 1
52 53 54 55 56 57 60 61 62 63
181-250 $2.10 181-260 $6.30 181-270 $14.95 181-470 NA 181-280 $149.95 181-290 $4.95 181-480 NA 181-630 $2.95 322-918 $0.80 181-490 NA
SPRING BUSH ROD ASSEMBLY PAWL HANDLE & SHAFT ASSY. HAND GRIP RATCHET BUSH BOLT WITH NUT LEVER
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1
The master cylinder has a non-return valve in the brake side only. Make sure when rebuilding your cylinder that you double check the placement of this valve. It is common to forget the large rubber washer in the brake side of the cylinder or overlook it completely when disassembling the unit. Avoid this problem by reminding yourself that the clutch is on the left when the cylinder is mounted on the firewall and on the right when looking at the front of the cylinder. 64 65 66 67 68 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 181-540 $4.35 NUT 181-530 $3.95 TRUNNION 324-115 $0.55 WASHER 324-590 $0.25 WASHER 329-130 $1.00 SPRING 331-100 $16.50 HANDBRAKE CABLE 331-130 $15.50 HANDBRAKE CABLE 181-550 $0.55 CLIP, cable to battery carrier 181-620 $9.15 CLIP, cable to axle bracket 596-165 $0.80 CLEVIS PIN 181-500 $3.40 FULCRUM 181-510 $10.20 LEVER, cable equalizing 181-520 $17.75 LEVER, cable equalizing 330-190 $7.35 BUSHING * See body rubber sets on pages 32. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1
disc wheel wire wheel
for clutch pipe
180-040 $9.95 310-150 $0.70 180-300 $11.95 280-710* $9.95 280-715 $24.95 181-640* $2.95 181-650 $6.50 280-770* $2.95 329-350 $2.45 190-625 $4.15 330-180 $3.35 321-648 $1.35 325-150 $0.90 181-350 $8.95
PUSH ROD, does not include fork NUT FORK, push rod to pedal EXCLUDER, fume & dust all with dual master cylinder EXCLUDER, fume & dust Twin Cam & MKII DeLuxe RUBBER BLANKING PLATE, passenger side RETAINING PLATE PEDAL PAD, brake & clutch SPRING, pedal return SPACER BUSHING, pedal BOLT & NUT CLEVIS PIN KNOB
1-800-667-7872
Brakes
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
81 82
264-790 $119.95 264-520 264-525 $4.25 $4.25 $0.65 $0.60 $0.75 $39.95 $5.95 $3.35 $0.45 NA NA $1.75
BRAKE DRUM, rear & 1500 disc wheel, front PLUG, 1/2 PLUG, 3/4 SCREW, front 1/2 SCREW, rear 5/8 NUT, rear SHOE SET, 4 shoes RETURN SPRING BOLT, plate to steering knuckle NUT BRAKE PLATE, R/H front BRAKE PLATE, L/H front TAB WASHER, for #264-790 drum BRAKE DRUM, front NUT SET (12 nuts) TAB WASHER PLUG, 1/2 PLUG, 3/4 RETURN SPRING, thin RETURN SPRING, thick ANTI RATTLE SPRING BOLT BRAKE PLATE, R/H rear BRAKE PLATE, L/H rear WHEEL CYLINDER, R/H front WHEEL CYLINDER, L/H front REPAIR KIT SPRING EXPANDER CUP & RING MASK ADJUSTER BOLT, large BOLT, small BLEEDER, rear 1500 wire wheel (disc wheel uses (uses drum #81)
2/4 A/R A/R
disc wheels
83
323-250 323-255 83a 310-300 84 182-150 85 86 87 88 181-450 322-020 310-050
1500 disc wheels 4 disc wheel 4 1500 & 1600 wire wheel 8 1/2 4 8 8/16 1 1 4/8 2 1 6 A/R A/R 2 2 4 8 1 1 2 2 1 4 4 4 2/6 2/6 4 4
117 118 119 120 121 122 123
180-180 180-190 180-240 180-160 180-130 324-720
$1.45 $1.95 NA NA $39.95 $7.95 $0.95 NA
SPRING EXPANDER LEVER PIN ABUTMENT BANJO BOLT WASHER, large copper BANJO (straight) 1500 to (c)27989 disc wheel or (c)28540 wire wheel from (c)27990 disc wheel (c)28541 wire wheel
2 2 2 2 2 2 2
124 180-425
180-460
$19.95
BANJO (90 angle)
1500
2 2 2 1 1 1 1 4 2 1 2 2 2 4 1 1 2
125 324-730 126 182-180 180-510 180-520 130 180-420 180-410 131 180-740 132 180-980 133 182-210 134 180-290 135 180-280 136 180-285 137 310-140 138 181-305 181-315 139 180-255
$0.35 $72.95 NA NA NA NA $63.95 $9.95 $39.95 $3.60 $2.95 $1.15 $0.35 $15.95 $13.25 $13.15
WASHER, copper (small) BRAKE DISC CALIPER ASSY., R/H CALIPER ASSY., L/H CALIPER BODY, R/H CALIPER BODY, L/H PISTON REBUILD KIT see important notes on page 28 PAD SET 1600, front disc brakes RETAINER PIN O-RING, fluid channel NUT LOCK PLATE, R/H LOCK PLATE, L/H BOLT, caliper mounting
89 90 91 92 93
267-460
264-780 $136.45 311-778 $3.95 264-150 $1.95 328-390 328-400 181-460 181-450 181-340 322-030 $0.45 $0.60 $2.95 $5.95 $3.35 $1.00 NA NA $25.95 $25.95 $24.95 $1.45 $3.15 $4.30 $7.95 $23.95 $0.60 $1.95 $6.95
wire wheels
94 95 96 97 98
all rear
100 180-640 180-650 180-458 102 180-180 103 180-170 104 180-940 105 180-140 106 180-150 108 322-880 109 322-400 110 180-340
1500 front drum brakes
If your brake pedal pulsates or the car shudders under braking, it's likely that your brake rotors are distorted. Accurate measurement of the disc rotor thickness is essential. A dial gauge can be easily set up to check the brake rotor run out with the rotor and hub on the car. Use a micrometer to check the rotor thickness. The MGA rotor must not run out more than .003. The thickness should be parallel within .001". Light scoring of rotors is not detrimental provided it is concentric. If a rotor is to be turned, no more than .040 should be removed. After turning, the rotor must not be less than .330 thick.
1500 to (c)27989 (disc wheel) (c)28540 (wire wheel)
180-100 115 180-630 180-470 116 180-950
$2.60 $42.95 $27.95 $10.70
BLEEDER, front & rear
1500 from above, 1600 & MkII 4/6 WHEEL CYLINDER, rear, less boot 2 REPAIR KIT 1 CUP & BOOT, boot not included w/ complete cylinder 2
Anti-squeal Strips
Sometimes disc brakes just wont shut up. These foil lined self-adhesive strips stick onto the back of the brake pads to dampen the vibrations which cause brake squeal. Set of four. 583-805 $2.95

27
MGA
Brake Pipes
0
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
1 2
220-400 220-410 589-010 589-040
$3.95 $24.95 $62.40 $21.95
BRITISH BRAKE FLUID, 1 pint SILICONE BRAKE FLUID, 1 quart FITTING, 5-way (replacement, includes switch ) FITTING, 3-way 1500 to (c)27988 disc wheel, 28539 wire
A/R A/R 1
20 21
1 22 23 25 26 27
180-090
$10.95
FITTING, 3-way
from 1500 (c)27989 disc wheel, 28540 wire 1 1500 1600 & MKII all 2 2 1 1/3 3 1/3 2 2 2 2
3 4 5 6 7 8 11 12 13 14
180-830 180-890 180-830 324-180 324-730 311-420 310-230 324-045 324-720 180-430 183-008
$19.95 $27.45 $19.95 $0.30 $0.35 $1.70 $0.35 $0.30 $0.95 $5.35 $77.95
HOSE, front brake HOSE, front brake HOSE, rear brake WASHER WASHER, copper NUT NUT LOCK WASHER WASHER, copper BANJO BOLT BRAKE PIPE SET, LHD
181-185 181-170 181-230 181-160 181-240 181-190 181-900 181-660 182-615 182-635 141-700
$11.95 $11.95 $9.40 $8.95 $12.95 $12.95 $2.95 $4.35 NA $1.05 $19.95
PIPE, 3-way to L/R cyl., wire PIPE, 3-way to L/R cyl., wire PIPE, 4-way to R/F hose PIPE, 4-way to R/F hose PIPE, 4-way to L/F hose PIPE, 4-way to L/F hose STRAP, pipe to axle LOCKING PLATE CLIP, pipe to frame CLIP, pipe to differential case BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH
1500 to (c)28539 from 1500 (c)28540 1500 1600 & MKII 1500 1600 & MKII 1600 & MKII
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 4 1 1
Caliper Rebuild Kit Notes Do not confuse the dust seals with the fluid seals in the #180-980 caliper rebuild kit. The larger ring with the V groove is the dust seal. It is virtually impossible to install the piston in the caliper with the seals in the wrong grooves. Warning: The metal seal retainers and seals in rebuild kits are of modified design. The metal retainers must be installed differently than the originals, and differently than shown in the workshop manual. Refer to the drawing below for correct installation. Lockheed made this design improvement years ago. The metal seal retainer is easily damaged. Make sure that it is pressed into place using equal pressure at opposite sides.
1500 uses 3
1600 & MKII
1500 to (c)27988 disc whl. (c)28539 wire whl. 1 1500 from (c)27989 disc, (c)28540 wire whl. 1 1600 & MKII LHD only RHD only 1500 1 1 1 2 1
183-048
$77.95
BRAKE PIPE SET, LHD
15 16 17 18
183-088 181-200 181-215 181-140 181-220 181-155
$77.95 $14.20 NA $7.95 $16.95 $7.95
BRAKE PIPE SET, LHD PIPE, master cyl. to 4-way PIPE, master cyl. to 4-way PIPE, between front wheel cyl. PIPE, 4-way to rear hose PIPE, 3-way to R/R cylinder
1500 to (c)27988 disc wheel (c)28539 wire
181-145
$8.40
PIPE, 3-way to R/R cylinder
from 1500 (c)27989 disc wheel, (c)28540 wire 1 1500 to (c)27988 from 1500 (c)27989 1 1
19 28
181-070 181-180
$12.70 $11.95
PIPE, 3-way to L/R cyl., disc PIPE, 3-way to L/R cyl., disc
1-800-667-7872
Chassis
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
281-778* $69.95 310-050 $0.45 161-800 $2.10 470-800 $37.95 470-810 $37.95 322-040 $0.50 310-290 $0.35 310-380 $0.85 470-820 $1.85 470-830 $0.70 470-260 $79.50 470-250 $79.50 310-390 $0.55 322-720 $1.20 322-730 $1.25 310-300 $0.75 470-880 $11.95 456-945 $179.95 456-955 $179.95 456-960 $124.95 323-968 $49.95 473-200 473-210 $46.95 $46.95
17 18
PACKING SET, body mounting (28 pieces, complete) * See pages 32 for Body Rubber Sets. NUT, rear, rebound strap mounting STRAP, tail lamp cable BRACKET, bumper support, front L/H BRACKET, bumper support, front R/H BOLT NUT NUT, front bumper to frame CLIP, battery cable & harness CLIP, tail lamp harness BRACKET, bumper mounting, rear L/H BRACKET, bumper mounting, rear R/H NUT, bumper mounting brackets BOLT, bracket to frame, forward BOLT, bracket to frame, rearward NUT, for #12 & #13 SEAL, rear ramp COMPLETE FLOORBOARD SET 1500 to (c)61503 COMPLETE FLOORBOARD SET from (c)61504 MAIN FLOORBOARD SET, items marked A only SCREW & WASHER SET, floorboard R/H BATTERY BRACKET ASSY. L/H BATTERY BRACKET ASSY. L/H COVER PLATE R/H COVER PLATE RING, shift boot top SHIFT BOOT GASKET PLUG, dipstick hole BUFFER COVER, starter drive 1500 from (c)61504, 1600 & MKII easily welded to frame
1 2 2 1 1 6 6 4 6 2 1 1 2 2 2 4 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2
27 30 31 32 34 35 36 37 38 39
456-040 $339.95 455-800 $20.95 455-810 $20.95 455-820 $12.95 455-830 $12.95 455-840 $16.85 455-850 $16.85 455-865 $35.95 455-900 $17.95 455-910 $17.95 455-920 $18.60 455-930 $18.60 455-940 $17.75 455-950 $17.75 455-960 $16.65 455-970 $16.65 455-980 $21.85
EXTENSION ASSY., front frame FLOORBOARD RAIL, R/H footwell side FLOORBOARD RAIL, L/H footwell side FLOORBOARD RAIL, R/H toeboard front FLOORBOARD RAIL, L/H toeboard front FLOORBOARD RAIL, R/H footwell rear FLOORBOARD RAIL, L/H footwell real CROSSMEMBER FLOORBOARD RAIL, R/H front FLOORBOARD RAIL, L/H front FLOORBOARD RAIL, R/H side FLOORBOARD RAIL, L/H side REPAIR KIT, R/H rear corner, 3 pcs. REPAIR KIT, L/H rear corner, 3 pcs. FLOORBOARD RAIL, R/H rear FLOORBOARD RAIL, L/H rear REPAIR PANEL, inner sides of frame
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2
19 20 21 22 23 24 25
470-890 $23.95 470-900 $23.95 326-480 $3.95 280-760* $8.95 280-000 $7.65 280-410* $2.45 280-005 $6.95 280-015 $13.95
Frame condition is a determining factor in deciding how far to go with your restoration. Most of the rust damage will occur on the passenger side of the car from the footwell to the rear support tube. A seriously rusted frame will be completely perforated or have large sections completely missing in this area. Moss frame repair sections will enable you to repair most frame problems yourself. Cut away the remaining damaged metal and clamp the repair parts in place. Tack weld and trial fit an entire section before any final welding is carried out. To avoid warping, weld the rails at 2" to 4" intervals working from the center of the piece. An electric welder is best for frame repairs.
1 1
26
361-080
$12.95
BRACKET, starter switch

29
MGA
0 Front Bumper and Grille
No.
1500-1600
1 2 3 5 6 7 9 10 14
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
321-888 454-880 454-940 322-640 400-418 322-900 321-708 470-970 454-930 310-380
$21.15 $87.95 $24.95 $0.85 $4.25 $1.65 $2.00 $5.95 $18.95 $0.85
FASTENER KIT, front bumper (46 pc. hardware kit) BUMPER ASSY., front 3 main sections OVERRIDER BOLT, overrider attaching PACKING SET, overrider to bumper BOLT & NUT, chrome BOLT & NUT, chrome, behind overriders BRACKET, hand crank MAIN SPRING BRACKETS NUT, bumper assy. to frame
1 1 2 2 1 3 2 1 2 4
The MGA front bumper, with its complex arrangement of parts, is difficult to mount on the car without a lot of scratched paint and frustration. This is one of those jobs for which an assistant is needed, if only to make encouraging noises. Make sure that the body brackets and main spring brackets are not bent. If the spring brackets are, it is practical to buy new, (#454-930) as they are extremely hard to bend back. Assemble the parts off the car, test fit and adjust any gaps before the unit is tightened up. A small jack may be needed to help adjust the bumper. Try to get the gap at the top equal across the front of the car, especially at the outer edges where the bumper wraps around the fender. Dont overlook the new rubber grommets and an overrider packing set, #281-578 & #400-418. 16 17 18 19 20 21 470-980 470-990 451-720 453-400 280-690 407-720 407-730 $3.45 $3.45 $11.95 $87.95 $1.85 $44.95 $44.95 BRACKET, L/H license plate BRACKET, R/H license plate SUPPORT, number plate BADGE/GRILLE BAR GROMMET FOG LAMP BRACKET, L/H FOG LAMP BRACKET, R/H 1 1 1 1 4
1600 MKII
factory option
chrome, factory option 1 see page39 for fog lamps 1
Moss sells the only reproduction grille shells available, which are now of much better quality than previously. Trimming and fit have improved, and they are now chrome plated brass (as original), instead of steel. While these grilles are acceptable to most owners, they may not satisfy the most particular concours enthusiast. In this case, we suggest hand-fitting the new grille prior to painting and then have the custom-trimmed grille replated locally. 25 26 990-060 $174.95 SHELL & GRILLE ASSY., flat 1500 - 1600 990-090 $204.95 SHELL & GRILLE ASSY., recessed MKII Note: Shell & grille assemblies include numbers 28 thru 31, plus the correct grille #32 or #33, and grille-to-shell bolts and nuts. 990-070 $129.95 470-110 $29.95 326-530 $0.15 201-035 $15.95 990-080 $99.95 470-100 NA 320-940 $1.95 310-040 $0.15 322-220 $0.25 470-120 $4.95 SHELL, fits both grilles FALSE NOSE SPEED NUT, false nose BADGE GRILLE, flat 1500 & 1600 GRILLE, recessed MKII BOLT, grille to shell NUT BOLT, grille assy. to body GRILLE PIPING, original silver color 1 1
28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36
1 1 1 1 1 1 2 5 6 1

30
1-800-667-7872
Front Body Fittings
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
40
165-300 165-500 165-210 165-400
$17.95 $17.95 $17.95 $17.95 $0.95 $9.95 $3.25 $8.75 $8.75 $21.95 $0.20 $0.65 $9.95 $0.95 $3.45 $21.95 $36.70 $34.50 $8.25 $6.95 $2.45 $20.95 $8.95 $3.95 $14.95 NA $0.25 $4.95 $19.95 $17.95 $4.75 $3.15 $9.95 $2.35 $5.45 $16.20 $54.95 $8.95
FENDER MIRROR, L/H convex FENDER MIRROR, L/H flat FENDER MIRROR, R/H convex FENDER MIRROR, R/H flat
reproduction of round Lucas fender mirrors
1 1 1 1
40a 280-140 41 471-010 326-588 42 408-410 43 408-420 44 165-100 311-030 323-080 45 472-000 46 323-695 47 363-195 48 200-230 281-848 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 70 71 281-808 281-818 281-628 280-410 241-00 280-760 326-480 470-950 329-165 365-720 471-130 470-640 470-930 329-280 470-610 470-620 470-940 329-175 249-738 470-918 472-560
PAD, under mirror base A/R VENT GRILLE 2 SPEED NUT SET, trim mounting (24 speed nuts) 1 1600 EMBLEM, on front deck & trunk lid 3 1600 MKII EMBLEM, on front deck & trunk lid 3 DASH MIRROR 1 NUT, dash mirror mounting 2 SCREW, dash mirror mounting 2 FINISHER, defroster slot 2 SCREW, defroster slot finisher 4 SEAL, felt (between defroster box & underside of dash) 2 HUB CAP disc wheels 4 GROMMET SET, complete Virtually every rubber grommet found on an MGA! (51 pieces) 1 GROMMET SET, firewall, heater box shelf area (41 pieces) 1 GROMMET SET, wiring other than heater shelf (9 pieces) 1 HOOD BUFFER SET, 10 buffers 1 TRANSMISSION COVER PLUG 1 ASHTRAY, as original factory option 1 SHIFT BOOT 1 RING, chrome 1 PROP ROD 1 SPRING 1 WASHER 1 CLIP, prop rod 1 SAFETY CATCH, hood 1 BRACKET, safety catch 1 SPRING 1 CUP 1 PIN 1 GUIDE PLATE 1 SPRING 1 FENDER PIPING, enough for 4 fenders, original silver color 1 HOOD HINGE SET 1 FELT PAD (glues on hood above radiator tank) 1
MGA hoods (bonnets) changed subtly over the production period of the cars. Two lengths were made, 47 7/8 and 48 3/8. This could be the reason that you're having so much trouble fitting the hood on your car. The hood shape was changed to accommodate the Twin Cam cam cover, which was higher than the push rod rocker box. There is a noticeable bump in the middle of these hoods. It is a good idea to make sure that the hood latch is adjusted and working perfectly before the grill is mounted. If the hood sticks, the only way to get it up is to pry at the lip with a screwdriver, or go in through your new grille! Fender mirrors were dealer-installed items, and were supplied in several styles and mounted wherever the owner wished. The Lucas style fender mirrors are most effective when mounted on the top of the fender just above the front axle. Some people have trouble seeing the left mirror if mounted closer to the screen. Try various locations before drilling any holes. Fender welt must be notched to fit around the fender bolts. Do not discard your original fender welt, use it as a pattern to notch the replacement.
Sidecurtain Anti-Rattle Sleeve

This molded rubber sleeve fits over the brackets on the leading edges of the factory-style 1600 and MkII side curtains. 280-965 $2.15 Each

31
MGA
0 Rear Body Fittings
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
321-898 1 2 3 4 5 8 9 10 11 13 14 15 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 32 33 35 37 40 41 42 43 47 48 49 50 51 52 32
$26.20
453-170 $87.95 454-940 $24.95 322-630 $0.65 400-418 $4.25 322-900* $1.65 322-080* $2.25 454-950 280-690 310-380 451-285 451-290 406-600 470-190 326-730 470-210 280-780 282-720 470-195 453-000 453-005 453-015 453-025 329-165 365-720 453-245 280-714 326-588 408-410 408-420 470-698 326-500 249-738 470-747 470-757 471-100 280-680 470-490 $12.95 $1.85 $0.85 $19.75 $22.95 $10.75 $19.95 $3.95 $1.85 $3.95 $1.95 $7.65 $43.95 $7.35 $10.95 $1.40 NA $0.25 $7.25 $10.95 $3.25 $8.75 $8.75 $10.75 $0.15 $16.20 $4.95 $2.25 $14.95 $2.15 $3.25
FASTENER KIT, rear bumper, 1 (58 piece bumper mounting hardware kit) BUMPER FACE BAR 1 OVERRIDER 2 BOLT, overrider attaching 2 PACKING SET, overrider to bumper (does 4 overriders) 1 BOLT & NUT, chrome, ends of bumper 2 BOLT & NUT, chrome, center of bumper 2 *these also include lockwasher MAIN SPRING BRACKET 2 GROMMET 2 NUT 2 BACKING PLATE, license plate 1 MAIN BRACKET, license plate 1 LAMP BRACKET 1 GAS CAP 1 LIFT LEVER, gas cap 1 SEAL, top of filler neck 1 FERRULE, filler pipe to body 1 SEAL, filler neck, on trunk floor 1 CLAMPING PLATE 1 CLAMP, spare tire 1 WING NUT 1 BOLT 1 PIN, pivot 1 SPRING 1 WASHER 1 PACKING, spare tire (felt), pair 1 TRUNK SEAL 1 SPEED NUT SET, trim mounting (24 pieces) 1 1600 EMBLEM, on trunk lid & front deck 3 1600 MKII EMBLEM, on trunk lid & front deck 3 MG EMBLEM SET, 3 pieces w/ speed nuts 1 SPEED NUT for emblem 13 FENDER PIPING, original silver color (does 4 fenders) 1 RETAINER, chrome 2 WASHER, cup 2 CLIP, hand crank 3 DOOR BUFFER coupe uses 2 4/2 TAPPING PLATE, door buffers coupe uses 2 4/2
53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 65 66 70 71 72 73 74
323-080 $0.65 471-110 $1.25 471-120 $2.95 244-700 $209.95 453-900 NA 457-475 $6.75 470-015 NA 470-075 $10.95 470-065 $11.95 470-025 $17.95 470-918 $54.95 470-705 NA 406-170 $0.65 406-190 $1.95 406-180 $1.75 324-655 $0.40 NA
SCREW, tapping plate coupe uses 2 FERRULE, trunk lid release rod CHANNEL, release rod LUGGAGE RACK, repro. of factory option PROP ROD, trunk lid CLIP, prop rod ROD, trunk release PLATE, rod guide LEVER, trunk release ROD, rear TRUNK LID HINGE SET TRUNK LOCK WASHER, bumper bar to bracket SPACER, large SPACER, small WASHER, large WASHER, rubber
4/2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 4 4
Save time and money! The following body rubber sets include virtually every rubber part needed to restore an MGA body, from headlamp seals to tail lamp pads, at considerable savings over total individual prices. Sets include items listed below and on the facing page. 281-708 281-718 281-728 281-738 281-748 281-758 281-108 280-120 280-130 280-540 280-680 280-710 280-714 280-760 280-780 $189.95 $289.95 $199.95 $299.95 $179.95 $274.95 $16.95 $4.75 $5.95 $3.60 $2.15 $9.95 $10.95 $8.95 $3.95 BODY RUBBER SET BODY RUBBER SET BODY RUBBER SET BODY RUBBER SET BODY RUBBER SET BODY RUBBER SET HEADLAMP SEAL SET SEAL, headlamp rim PAD, headlamp to fender PAD, license plate lamp DOOR BUFFER EXCLUDER, pedal TRUNK SEAL GEARSHIFT BOOT FERRULE, around filler neck 1500 roadster 1500 coupe 1600 roadster 1600 coupe MKII roadster MKII coupe 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 1 4/2 1 1 1 1
coupe uses 2
1-800-667-7872
Rear Body Fittings

280-790 280-690 280-770 249-738 470-120 281-628 680-470 280-740 280-940 280-950 281-788 158-700 159-518 280-960 159-100 159-400 280-970 159-600 159-018 164-800 159-718
$2.10 $1.85 $2.95 $16.20 $4.95 $6.95 $11.95 $3.30 $49.50 $49.50 $34.95 $1.90 $4.95 $9.85 $2.95 $2.95 $12.95 $3.60 $4.95 $1.85 $5.95
PAD, gas pedal GROMMET, bumper mounting PEDAL PAD, brake & clutch FENDER PIPING, 4 fenders GRILLE PIPING, shell to body HOOD BUFFER SET, 10 buffers SEAL, windshield to body GROMMET, w/s post WINDSHIELD SEAL, front WINDOW SEAL, rear VENT WINDOW SEAL SET MOUNTING RING, park lamp SEAL SET, parking lamp lens PAD, tail lamp mounting PAD, tail lamp lens PAD, tail lamp socket base PAD, tail lamp mounting BODY, upper tail lamp SEAL SET, parking lamp lens MOUNTING RING, park lamp BOOT SET, park lamp sockets roadster
1 6 2 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 2 1 2 2 2 2 2 1 2 1 2 1 1
Horizontal tail lamps on the 1600 MKII replaced the earlier vertical style tail lamps.
The 1600 MKII grille was very similar to the earlier version but had recessed slats.
coupe
1500
When re-wiring your car, be sure to order the harness that fits your body type, not engine type.
1500 & 1600
Painting MGA Sub-Assemblies

The fact that the MGA was built primarily of sub-assemblies makes it easy to properly detail each component before it is installed on the car. Here is a guide to help you detail your MGA. The Moss Custom Color Spray Paints listed below are specially formulated by us to match the original colors as closely as possible. Component Engine Starter Generator Paint Color Moss MG Maroon (#220-540) Original installation was engine color Replacements from factory and Lucas were black. Natural, aluminum Semi-Gloss Black School Bus Yellow (Rustoleum) or Duplicolor T-211 Moss MG Maroon (#220-540) Black Natural, coat with clear to prevent rusting.
1600
1600 & MKII
281-678 $17.95 PAD SET, tail lamp mounting (pair) MKII Major rubber kits not included in above: 281-778 $69.95 PACKING SET, body to frame (28 pieces) 281-848 $36.70 GROMMET SET, complete (52 pieces) (Just about every rubber grommet found on an MGA)
Transmission Air Cleaners Fan
Identifying The MGA

There are only five variations of the MGA. The 1500, 1600, MKII, Twin Cam and 1600 MKII DeLuxe. The coupes were a variation of the roadster and were not differentiated by the factory numbering system as to body style. The Twin Cam, a major undertaking at the time of its introduction, was identified separately while the DeLuxe, the most elusive of MGA models, was not distinctly identified. There are reliable production figures for all models except the DeLuxe. The three major MGA models may be readily identified by their tail-lamp and grille configurations as well as their engine displacement.
Fan Pulley Radiator, Heater Master Cylinder Casting Chassis, all frame and suspension parts, bumper brackets & brake drums. Floor Boards Transmission Tunnel Convertible Top Frame Wheels, Wire & Disc
The 1500 style tail lamps were common to many British cars of the period.
The 1500 style grille has slats that are set flush with the back of the shell.
Black
Moss Tan Top Frame Paint (#220-520) Moss Wheel Paint (#220-560) Tudor Blue, Krylon 3107
A 1500 will have the familiar single Lucas tail lamp, the flush style grille and no cowl or deck marking. Four-wheel drum brakes were fitted to this model only. Very early 1500s had different style gauge faces, an example of which can be found in the factory service manual and drivers handbook illustrations. The door rails on the first few cars were entirely of wood, as were the cockpit rear corners. There are few of these seen today. The 1500s did not have the starter hump on the passenger toe board or the windscreen mounted top clamp. The turn indicators were switched through a relay. The front grille on 1600 models was identical to the one that was fitted to the 1500s. Front parking lamp lenses became "flat"
and a separate turn signal lamp was added at the rear of 1600s.
Windscreen Washer Bottle Bracket Body Panels Inner Fenders Splash Aprons Upper Dash Bulkhead Battery Cover Inside Trunk Engine Compartment Underside of Hood and Trunk Lid Inside Door
Body Color
A 1600 is differentiated by the dual tail lamp with separate turn lamps, larger round parking lamps with flat lenses and a 1600 marker on the cowl and rear trunk lid. Disc brakes on the front greatly improved stopping power. The starter position was moved with the resulting hump on the passenger toe board.

33
MGA
The 1600 MKII received the closest thing to a face lift an MGA ever got. The famous flat grille was replaced with the pre-crushed version. The Morris Mini tail lamps appeared horizontally below the deck lid and the vinyl covered dash and cowl and 1600 MKII badges were added. The chrome trim and dash escutcheon from the coupe finished off the dash. Seat belt anchors were added to the frame. 1600 MKII DeLuxe cars used the Twin Cam chassis with the push rod 1622 engine. Check all parts carefully, as MGAs have not always enjoyed the respect they do now, and parts have been freely exchanged with little regard for originality.
0 Body Panels
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
1 2 3 4 5 6 8 9 10 12
459-270 $849.95 459-275 $79.95 459-280 $79.95 459-285 NA 459-290 NA 459-485 $33.95 459-490 $33.95 470-720 $1.35 459-495 $149.95 456-280 $64.95 470-710 $2.05 456-140 $199.95 456-160 $199.95 456-145 $199.95 456-165 $199.95
FLOOR ASSEMBLY, trunk REPAIR PANEL, trunk center REPAIR PANEL, trunk rear REPAIR PANEL, L/H center side REPAIR PANEL, R/H center side REPAIR PANEL, L/H front side REPAIR PANEL, R/H front side SPRING, retaining (incl. w/ #5) REAR BULKHEAD PANEL all except 1600 coupe BATTERY COVER FASTENER, battery cover SILL & PILLAR ASSY., R/H SILL & PILLAR ASSY., L/H SILL & PILLAR ASSY., R/H SILL & PILLAR ASSY., L/H roadster
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 1 1
458-150 18 457-875 457-900 459-560 459-565 19 21 22 23
$18.95 $53.95 $53.95 $69.95 $69.95
SILL PLATE, L/H SHUT FACE PANEL, R/H SHUT FACE PANEL, L/H SHUT FACE PANEL, R/H SHUT FACE PANEL, L/H INNER SILL PANEL, R/H INNER SILL PANEL, L/H WHEEL ARCH CLOSING PANEL, R/H WHEEL ARCH CLOSING PANEL, L/H REPAIR PANEL, w/brace, R/H REPAIR PANEL, w/brace, L/H REPAIR PIECE, sill to wheel well, R/H REPAIR PIECE, sill to wheel well, L/H CHANNEL, reinforcing MOUNT, windshield stanchion, R/H MOUNT, windshield stanchion, L/H roadster roadster
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1
coupe
coupe
24 25
456-190 $19.95 456-200 $19.95 459-570 $179.95 459-575 $179.95 458-120 $17.25 458-130 $17.25 457-880 $12.25 457-870 $12.25 457-860 $14.85 459-580 459-585 $19.95 $19.95
13 14 15 16 17 34
457-800 457-810 457-820 457-830 453-098 458-140
$63.95 $63.95 $18.65 $18.45 $25.95 $18.95
SILL, R/H, with end caps SILL, L/H, with end caps REPAIR PIECE, A-post bottom lower 3 REPAIR PIECE, B-post bottom lower 3 FINISHER STRIP, sill bottom (pair) 57 long, as original SILL PLATE, R/H
1-800-667-7872
Body Panels
26 27
459-590 NA 459-595 $419.95 459-110 $6.95 459-115 $6.95 459-120 $339.95 459-125 $339.95 459-130 NA 459-135 $294.95
WHEEL WELL, R/H WHEEL WELL, L/H REINFORCEMENT, R/H wheel well REINFORCEMENT, L/H wheel well INNER FENDER ASSY., R/H rear INNER FENDER ASSY., L/H rear INNER FENDER ASSY., R/H rear INNER FENDER ASSY., L/H rear REPAIR PIECE, L/H rear REPAIR PIECE, R/H rear REPAIR PIECE, L/H front REPAIR PIECE, R/H front REPAIR PIECE, L/H front REPAIR PIECE, R/H front roadster roadster
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1
457-645 457-655 457-795 457-805 70 71 72 456-730 456-720 456-750 456-740 457-760 457-770 457-665 457-675 321-900 324-715 456-965 457-505 457-515 457-555 457-740 457-750 456-100 455-110 321-948 459-250 459-255 459-260 459-265
NA NA NA NA $32.95 $32.95 $1,099.00 $1,099.00 $99.95 $99.95 $399.95 $399.95 $29.95 $0.75 $1.00 NA NA $1,259.95 $1,450.00 $679.95 $469.95 $79.95 $8.95 $39.95 NA NA NA
DOOR SKIN, R/H DOOR SKIN, L/H DOOR SKIN, R/H DOOR SKIN, L/H
LHD coupe
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 6 22 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
RHD coupe
30
coupe
31
32
459-150 459-155 459-160 459-165
$49.95 $49.95 NA $56.95 $18.65 $18.65 $7.95 $46.90 $46.90
coupe
74 75 76 77 78 79 80
33 34 35
458-170 458-160 457-840 456-260 456-250
REPAIR PIECE, L/H lower front REPAIR PIECE, R/H lower front REPAIR KIT, top frame mount roadster SPLASH PLATE, R/H front SPLASH PLATE, L/H front roadster from (c)29935 and all coupes
36
456-290* $31.65 SPLASH PLATE, R/H rear, forward 456-320* $31.65 SPLASH PLATE, L/H rear, forward * These splash plates may be fitted to earlier cars. 280-808 280-800 280-810 280-820 280-830 325-268 $42.95 $10.95 $10.95 $9.95 $9.95 $5.75 SPLASH PLATE SEAL SET SEAL, L/H front SEAL, R/H front SEAL, R/H rear SEAL, L/H rear SPLIT RIVET SET
81
REPAIR SECTION, inner door, R/H REPAIR SECTION, inner door, L/H REPAIR SECTION, inner door, R/H REPAIR SECTION, inner door, L/H
roadster
coupe
37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 51 52 61 62 63 64
roadster from (c)29935 and all coupes
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Mounting Hardware
321-900 321-905 456-965 324-155 313-305 $29.95 $21.95 $1.00 $0.55 $0.35 FENDER BOLT SET, front (bolts & lockwashers for 2 fenders) FENDER BOLT SET, rear (bolts & lockwashers for 2 fenders) FENDER WASHER, large oblong (11/ft fender, 10/rear fender) FENDER WASHER, round (1 per fender) FENDER WASHER, small rectangular 3 per lower ft. fender, 2 per upper ft. of rear fender FRONT VALANCE BOLT & WASHER SET 1 1 42 4
456-995 $46.75 456-990 $46.75 457-850 $13.95 457-855 $27.35 459-180 $99.95 459-185 $99.95 459-190 $69.95 459-195 $299.95 456-240 459-215 459-220 459-225 459-230 459-240 459-245 457-885 282-750 456-000 456-005 457-725 457-715 457-735 457-745 321-905 456-710 456-700 457-485 457-495 457-775 457-785 457-780 457-790 $64.95 $74.85 $13.95 $13.95 $88.90 $7.95 $7.95 $31.95 $3.75 NA NA NA $593.95 $49.95 $49.95 $21.95 $549.95 $549.95 $479.95 NA $349.95 $349.95 $46.95 $46.95
65 66 67 68
SPLASH APRON, rear of R/H rear fender SPLASH APRON, rear of L/H rear fender MOUNT, body to frame, front MOUNT SET, body to frame, rear (pair) BRACKET, radiator support, R/H BRACKET, radiator support, L/H PLATFORM, bonnet locking PANEL ASSY., ft. bulkhead except Twin Cam & MKII DeLuxe PANEL, radiator duct except Twin Cam PANEL, radiator duct Twin Cam MOUNTING BRACKET, rad. duct panel, R/H MOUNTING BRACKET, rad. duct panel, L/H SKIRT PANEL, front valance PILLAR TOP EXTENSION, R/H PILLAR TOP EXTENSION, L/H COVER PLATE, heater aperture when heater not fitted SEAL, heater/cover plate mounting TRUNK LID ASSEMBLY SKIN, trunk lid TONNEAU PANEL roadster VALANCE, rear REPAIR PANEL, R/H rear deck roadster REPAIR PANEL, L/H rear deck FENDER BOLT SET, rear (for 2 fenders) FENDER, R/H rear FENDER, L/H rear REPAIR PANEL, R/H rear REPAIR PANEL, L/H rear REPAIR PANEL, R/H front REPAIR PANEL, L/H front REPAIR PIECE, lower R/H front REPAIR PIECE, lower L/H front COMPLETE DOOR, R/H COMPLETE DOOR, L/H DOOR SKIN, R/H DOOR SKIN, L/H roadster
10 1
321-948
$8.95
About Our Body Panels

Virtually all Moss MGA body panels are produced exclusively on our behalf, mostly in Darlington, County Durham, England. This facility, enthusiastically managed by Adrian Wood, grew out of a small MGA specialist firm which we acquired in 1986. With years of restoration experience on rust prone English MGAs, Adrian saw the need for a truly comprehensive range of MGA sheet metal. With Adrian's determination and Moss backing, an ambitious development program has been taken on under the direct supervision of Plant Foreman, Tom Oysten. With over 20 years experience in limited production sheet metal manufacturing, Tom has successfully tooled, jigged, or templated a totally comprehensive range of quality tried and tested panels. While many of these panels are largely handmade by Tom and his skilled staff, accuracy is assured by a variety of carefully designed gauges. Our fenders are supplied without bolt mounting holes and without holes for mounting parking or tail lamps. This aspect should be entrusted to a qualified body shop. We are very proud of Adrian and Toms accomplishments and are totally confident in the fit and quality of this important range of products.
Sill & Pillar Replacement

Rusted sill and pillar assemblies are easily replaced with new parts. If you are planning a body off restoration, replace the sill and pillar assemblies before you lift the body from the frame. It will be practically impossible to maintain the proper door, fender and rocker panel alignment of the body if this is not done. If the body is to be removed, brace the cockpit opening across the top to ensure a rigid assembly.
69
457-590 $579.95 457-600 NA 457-625 457-635 $94.95 $94.95
roadster

35
MGA
459-140 459-145
$38.95 $38.95
73
ROCKER PANEL, R/H ROCKER PANEL, L/H FENDER, R/H front FENDER, L/H front REPAIR PANEL, lower R/H REPAIR PANEL, lower L/H REPAIR PANEL, R/H front REPAIR PANEL, L/H front FENDER BOLT SET, front (for 2 fenders) FENDER WASHER, lower FENDER WASHER, upper BOX ASSEMBLY, L/H air duct BOX ASSEMBLY, R/H air duct HOOD (BONNET) HOOD SURROUND roadster REPAIR PANEL, hood surround FRONT VALANCE, steel FRONT VALANCE, fiberglass BOLT & WASHER SET, front valance mounting
Windshield & Doors

0
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
Roadster Doors
23 24 25 26
Roadster Windshield
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 14 15 17 18 19 20 21 680-470* 280-155 280-735 470-790 323-958 470-780 470-770 456-070 472-070 472-080 472-090 323-020 323-080 311-010 $11.95 $3.80 $8.95 $6.75 $35.95 $13.95 $13.95 $169.95 $15.95 $15.95 $1.25 $0.65 $0.65 $1.40 SEAL, under windshield PACKING, for windshield ends, 5 long GLAZING RUBBER BRACKET, lower corner SCREW SET, windshield frame, complete BRACKET, R/H BRACKET, L/H WINDSHIELD GLASS GRAB HANDLE, R/H GRAB HANDLE, L/H PACKING, grab handle SCREW, grab handle to frame SCREW, grab handle to body DOME NUT, grab handle 1 2 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 6 4 6 A/R 1 1 1 2 4 2 2
27 28 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 40 41 42 43 44
470-540 $9.95 472-455 $1.20 470-480 $6.75 470-520 $27.95 470-530 $27.95 470-560 $6.95 280-200 $1.15 470-960 $29.95 470-510 $1.20 408-890 $5.95 323-260 $0.50 451-095 $5.95 280-680* $2.15 470-490 323-080 470-570 324-425 310-390 453-260 453-255 472-180 472-170 $3.25 $0.65 $4.85 $1.65 $0.55 $24.95 $24.95 $12.95 $12.95
included in set #5
STRIKER PLATE SHIM TAPPING PLATE DOOR LATCH, R/H DOOR LATCH, L/H CABLE, door pull GROMMET, door pocket DOOR HINGE PACKING SHIM TAPPING PLATE, door hinge SCREW, hinge and striker plate STIFFENER BAR, door panel DOOR BUFFER * Note: Included in body rubber sets listed on pages 32. TAPPING PLATE, securing door buffers SCREW, tapping plate SOCKET, side curtain WASHER NUT for socket DOOR TOP RAIL, R/H wood DOOR TOP RAIL, L/H wood DOOR CORNER RAIL, R/H, aluminum DOOR CORNER RAIL, L/H, aluminum
2 A/R 2 1 1 2 2 4 A/R 4 36 2 4 4 4 2 2 2 1 1 1 1
472-450 $4.65 451-300 $164.95 451-310 $164.95 408-790 $2.95 325-210 $0.25 322-610 $0.50 408-880 $7.95 280-740* $3.30
PACKING, windshield post (pair) WINDSHIELD POST, R/H WINDSHIELD POST, L/H AUSTER, windshield nameplate DRIVE RIVETS, nameplate BOLT, post to body TAPPING PLATE, windshield GROMMET, windshield post * Note: Included in body rubber sets listed on pages 32.
MGA Paint Color Codes

MGA 1500 Body Color Old English White Black MG Red (dark red) Orient Red (light red) Mineral Blue (coupe only) Glacier Blue (roadster only) Island Green (coupe to 48979) Tyrolite Green (rdst. to 48979) Ash Green (from 48980) MGA 1600 Old English White Black Chariot Red 71420 Iris Blue Dove Gray Alamo Beige After Market Codes Interior Color R-M Ditzler Red or Black 6642 8177 Red or Green* 9000 Red or Black BM121R 71993 Red or Black BM119R 71034 Gray or Black 6600 12115 Gray or Black BM049 11825 Gray or Black 6614 42607 Gray or Black BM104 42605 Gray or Black BM077 42642 *Green interior is not available. Red or Black 6642 Red or Tan Red, Beige or Black Black Red Red BM054 6572 9014 8177 9000 9015R 12235 32085 21973
Installing Windscreen and Frame

One of the most familiar characteristics of the MGA is the small diagonal crack at the corner of the windscreen. This can be avoided if, upon installation, the mounting bolts are tightened up a little at a time. Work from side to side so the brackets are drawn up equally. The amount of packing required varies from car to car, especially if any crash repair has been carried out. Plan on replacing the screw set and corner brackets. These screws are BA thread and have usually been replaced with something else which damages the brackets. Rust attacks the lower brackets, while the upper ones are prone to cracking, and should be carefully inspected. (See pg. 52 for factory information on this topic.)

36
1-800-667-7872
Coupe
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
Coupe only
1 2 3 3a 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 280-017 280-027 280-025 456-460 470-725 470-735 470-580 470-590 324-295 325-470 470-575 402-225 472-100 456-470 280-035 282-245 282-255 282-225 $19.95 $19.95 $3.95 NA NA NA $35.60 $35.60 $0.70 $0.80 $33.95 $5.00 $19.95 NA $4.95 $24.50 $24.50 NA SEAL, R/H vent window SEAL, L/H vent window GLAZING RUBBER, vent windows (enough for 2 windows) VENT WINDOW GLASS HINGE, L/H vent window HINGE, R/H vent window HANDLE, vent window, R/H HANDLE, vent window, L/H WASHER, anti-rattle PIN, handle retaining PIVOT, vent window handle GLAZING RUBBER door windows FELT STRIP SET, glass channel for 2 windows DOOR GLASS BRUSH SEAL, door window PAD, R/H A-POST PAD, L/H A-POST SEAL , door pillar 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 1 2 2 1 1 2
14
233-895 233-945
$79.95 $79.95
SUN VISOR, black SUN VISOR, white
superb reproductions of factory options
1/2 1/2
15 16 17 20 21 22 25 26
472-190 $115.95 282-250 470-545 470-555 803-900 472-110 470-600 163-590 451-390 $3.50 NA $54.95 $16.95 $12.10 $6.95 NA $39.95
DOOR HANDLE, exterior, with escutcheon (2 pcs. - must be assemble w/ orig. pivot pin & spring.) 2 BUFFER, door handle 2 DOOR STRIKER, R/H 1 DOOR STRIKER, L/H 1 DOOR HANDLE, interior 2 This is an excellent replacement handle of proper size and shape. HANDLE, window regulator 2 ESCUTCHEON, window & door handles 4 DOOR LOCK ASSY., with 2 keys (drivers door only) 1 TRIM, windshield or rear window (see note below) 2
Note: One length per window. Looks and fits like original when installed, but is a flexible chrome-colored Mylar strip. For authenticity, cut in half and use two #470-700 joiners, as illustrated. Heat with an electric hair dryer to bend around corners. 27 28 29 30 31 34 470-700 456-080 280-940 280-950 456-438 $4.65 $169.95 $49.50 $49.50 $649.00 JOINER, window trim WINDSHIELD WINDSHIELD SEAL WINDOW SEAL, rear REAR WINDOW GLASS SET SPARE WHEEL COVER, grey SPARE WHEEL COVER, black SPARE WHEEL COVER, red SPARE WHEEL COVER, grey SPARE WHEEL COVER, black SPARE WHEEL COVER, red 2 per window 4 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
The sequential assembly of the MGA afforded simplicity and economy of effort in construction. Recalling how the car was assembled at the factory will be of great help when you attempt to take it apart and re-assemble it. The MGA line moved at the rate required to carry out the assembly correctly. There was a minimum of hurry, although the workers were able to assemble several hundred cars a week. MGA components were first built into sub-assemblies in side bays and hung on the frame as complete units. Engines, rear ends and interiors rapidly came together to make an MGA which was driven off the line. Each car was inspected thoroughly before being consigned to a shipment. While working on your MGA, the sequential assembly can cause problems if you attempt to subvert the system. Dont fight it. Remember that one layer of parts removed will reveal another layer, and things have to be disassembled in proper order.
242-935 $104.95 242-465 $104.95 242-475 $104.95 242-945 246-435 246-445 $69.95 $69.95 NA
1500 coupe (for roadster, see pg.50)
35
1600 coupe (for roadster, see pg.50)
Note: Spare wheel covers use the same carpet material as our carpet sets. See page 50 for complete listing.
36
456-970 $195.75 HEADLINER KIT, white 456-980 $195.75 HEADLINER KIT, black Included in body rubber sets listed on pages 32.
1 1 37
MGA
0 Ignition
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
24 25 26 27 28 29
163-620 163-635 153-810 163-625 153-820 371-805
$34.95 $0.55 $3.25 NA $1.00 $2.50
VACUUM PIPE ASSY., pre-bent as original COMPRESSION FITTING NUT, distributor end SCREW FITTING, carburetor end CLIP ADAPTOR to connect vacuum line to replacement vacuum unit with slip-on connector.
1 1 1 1 1 1
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
Distributor
143-180 $226.60 143-100* $349.95 543-000* NA MALLORY DUAL-POINT DISTRIBUTOR DISTRIBUTOR (rebuilt) 1500 & 1600 DISTRIBUTOR (rebuilt) 1622, MKII 1 1 1
* Note: These rebuilt Lucas distributors are fitted with the push-on vacuum connection instead of the original threaded connection. To connect the original or Moss reproduction metal vacuum advance line, remove the nut and compression fitting from the distributor end of the line and make the connection with adaptor #371-805 (purchased separately). 2 3 4 5 6 7 163-805 163-800 151-710 151-800 151-730 154-000 151-720 153-900 323-245 153-600 560-450 152-600 152-700 163-605 163-615 163-730 163-740 163-735 153-100 153-300 539-020 163-760 153-400 $19.95 $14.95 $2.55 $2.85 $3.05 $2.85 $4.10 $3.85 $1.15 $12.95 $6.00 NA NA $59.95 $59.95 $1.95 $2.75 $6.95 $43.95 $11.95 $0.60 $39.95 $19.95 CAP, Lucas CAP, replacement ROTOR, Lucas ROTOR, replacement CONDENSER, Lucas CONDENSER, replacement POINT SET, Lucas POINT SET, replacement SCREW, point set to breaker plate TERMINAL BUSH with lead (screw connector) TERMINAL BUSH with lead (Lucar connector) SPRING SET WEIGHT orig. distributors, #40488A & 40510A, B/D & F 1500-1600 1600 MKII 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Coil/Ignition Wires
30 543-020 143-200 152-400 146-310 215-630 171-628 171-620 171-627 171-550 171-630 152-120 473-120 473-125 470-055 $22.95 $39.95 $1.40 $0.70 $2.20 $29.95 $6.75 $6.95 $1.95 $2.95 $2.25 $19.95 $14.95 $17.95 COIL, ignition, 12 volt LUCAS SPORTS COIL NUT, wire securing WASHER, brass LUCAS COIL DECAL IGNITION WIRE SET, with clips SPARK PLUG CLIP IGNITION WIRE, 5 feet IGNITION WIRE SEPARATOR WIRE LABEL SET SPARK PLUG, Champion PLATE, coil steady BRACKET, coil mounting BRACKET, coil mount screw-in H.T. connection 1 push-in H.T. connection 1 for #543-020 coil only 1 1 1 1 4 1 1 1 4 1 1 1
31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41
8 9 10 11 12 13 14 17 18 20 21
VACUUM UNIT VACUUM UNIT SPRING, adjuster RATCHET, adjuster KNURLED NUT, adjuster BUSHING DRIVING DOG PIN SUNDRIES KIT CLAMPING PLATE, with bolt
1500 1600 & MKII
No spark? The most common tune-up problem results when a set of new points is installed and the car refuses to run. Double check the condenser and terminal wires; they must be insulated from the point set. It's common to place them on top of the insulator, which grounds them to the distributor base plate. The insulator washer must be fitted under the point spring, and the condenser mounted securely to the breaker plate.
Reversed polarity at the coil will cause fouled spark plugs and premature point erosion, as well as high-speed break up, although the car will run. The coil connections to the distributor should match the battery ground. For example, on a positive ground car, the positive side should connect to the distributor. Original Lucas coils for positive ground systems were marked SW for switch and CB for the contact breaker. Modern coils are marked + and -. When working on the electrical system it is advisable to disconnect the coil switch wire. This precaution will keep the coil and points from overheating, and prevent an accidental start-up.

38
1-800-667-7872
Heater & Wipers
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
Heater
1 2 3 4 5 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 362-900 $389.95 HEATER ASSEMBLY (all except Twin Cam) 408-350 $3.40 PLATE, Smiths 408-360 $2.95 PLATE, Caution 360-430 NA BLOWER MOTOR 360-440 NA HEATER CORE 280-190 $0.95 GROMMET 363-025 $2.95 CLIP, side cover 473-010 NA FAN 473-170 $2.85 CLAMP, cable 360-450 $12.95 PANEL, heater control 322-215 $9.10 BOLT & SPACER 360-455 $39.95 LEVER & SWITCH ASSEMBLY 150-810 $3.95 KNOB, heater blower, with letter B 331-330 $27.95 AIR CONTROL CABLE, less knob 331-320 $24.95 DEMIST CONTROL CABLE, less knob 150-880 $3.95 KNOB, control cables Note: Our dash knob set, part #150-888 includes all 11 knobs. See page 45 for details. 473-030 $13.95 TUBE, defroster 456-188* $69.95 AIR HOSE SET, 5 original type hoses1 456-170* $6.45 AIR HOSE, 14, original type 456-185* $12.95 AIR HOSE, 25, original type 456-110* $17.25 AIR HOSE, 4 x 18, original type 456-120* $22.95 AIR HOSE, 4 X 31, original type * Note: These hoses are supplied compressed in length, and must be stretched to correct length for installation. 326-360 $1.95 CLAMP, for 4 air hose 326-220 $3.70 CLAMP, for 4 air hose 363-415 $9.95 SEAL, air valve 360-410 $29.50 VALVE, heater shut off 296-450 $1.20 GASKET 456-238 $4.95 WATER HOSE SET 456-220 $0.70 HOSE, 21/2 473-050 $2.50 HOSE, 121/2 473-060 $2.95 HOSE, 14 473-040 $16.95 PIPE 326-308 $4.95 CLAMP SET, for #27, 28, 29 363-205 $1.30 CLIP 473-070 $2.25 CABLE STOP & SCREW 331-000 $12.50 CABLE, water valve 473-080 $9.45 NIPPLE 324-780 $2.15 WASHER 473-220 $2.95 ADAPTOR 282-750 $3.75 SEAL, heater mounting, rubber 457-885 $31.95 BLANKING PLATE (when heater is not fitted) 1 1 1 1 1 2 4 1 4 1 2 1 1 1 1 2
Wipers
50 51 52 52b 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 64 65 66 67 68 145-538 554-020 554-030 554-035 240-515 145-010 145-020 161-310 145-200 145-290 282-820 311-065 164-990 165-035 164-980 145-640 280-755 471-105 471-115 565-130 NA $71.75 NA $15.95 $2.10 NA NA $25.95 $46.95 $4.95 $2.50 $3.00 $12.95 $14.95 $9.95 $9.95 $3.35 $10.95 $18.95 $2.15 WIPER MOTOR ARMATURE BRUSH & SPRING SET, complete BRUSH PAIR (carbon blocks only) GROMMET CASING, motor to wheelbox CASING, between wheelboxes INNER DRIVE CABLE WHEELBOX ASSY. CHROME BEZEL, wheelbox PAD, wheelbox bezel CHROME NUT, wheelbox WIPER ARM LHD only WIPER ARM RHD only WIPER BLADE WIPER MOTOR MOUNT KIT GROMMET, rubber BRACKET, top BRACKET, bottom CASING, R/H end 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 3 1 1 1
17 18 19 20 21
2 1 1 2 1
22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 36 37 38 42 43 44
4 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 4 1 1 1 2 1 1
Washer
70 71 72 75 75a 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 361-100 361-140 361-145 361-160 150-889 282-640 361-210 361-210 361-220 565-040 361-240 361-255 $12.95 $9.45 $3.40 $24.95 $6.95 $2.05 $1.65 $1.65 $0.75 $1.95 $5.05 $7.95 CONTAINER CAP FOOT VALVE, non-return valve PUMP, replacement type KNOB, orig. pumps GROMMET, washer tube TUBING, container to pump, 1/4 dia. TUBING, pump to connector, 1/4 dia. TUBING, connector to jets, 3/16 dia. CONNECTOR, 3-way JET ASSEMBLY BRACKET, for container 1 1 1 1 1 1 A/R (sold by the foot) A/R A/R 1 2 1

39
MGA
0 Lamps
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
Headlamps
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 168-708 $74.95 168-698 $112.95 164-000 $19.95 147-000 $0.60 280-120 $4.75 144-790 $59.95 144-800 $78.95 157-300 $28.95 156-700 560-215 158-045 171-100 144-797 144-807 147-015 147-010 552-115 171-400 280-130 $12.95 $18.45 $0.40 $4.75 $14.95 $19.95 $6.95 $2.30 $6.25 $8.95 $5.95 HEADLAMP ASSEMBLY (3-adj.) HEADLAMP ASSEMBLY (2-adj.) CHROME RIM, outer SCREW DUST SEAL HEADLAMP ASSY., without rim HEADLAMP ASSY., without rim RING, retaining, 2 piece RING, retaining, outer BUCKET, inner 1500 & 1600 to (c)70221 2 1600 from (c)70222 2 2 2 2 1500 & 1600 to (c)70221 2 1600 from (c)70222 2 1500 & 1600 to (c)70221 2 1600 from (c)70222 2 2 6 2 2 2
Front Lamps
20 21 22 23 24 25 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 143-500 158-900 159-518 170-700 158-700 159-700 143-600 164-200 164-210 159-018 170-800 170-100 164-800 159-718 $36.95 $16.25 $4.95 $0.95 $1.90 $1.90 $39.95 $15.95 NA $4.95 $0.95 $0.80 $1.85 $5.95 FRONT PARKING LAMP LENS, with rim SEAL SET, lens mounting BULB RUBBER PAD RUBBER BOOT FRONT PARKING LAMP LENS, with rim, clear LENS, with rim, amber/clear SEAL SET, lens mounting BULB, turn indicator, large BULB, parking, small RUBBER PAD BOOT SET, 4 boots 1500 2 2 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 2 2 2 1
7a 8 9
SCREW, retaining rings to bucket LIGHT UNIT, sealed beam, U.S. made BUCKET, with adjusters 1500 & 1600 to (c)70221 BUCKET, with adjusters 1600 to (c)70222 ADJUSTER SET SCREW & SPRING
1600 & MKII U.S. spec. U.K. spec.
9a 9b
1500 & 1600 to (c)70221 2 4 2 2 2
10 11
ADJUSTER SET 1600 from (c)70222 PLUG, sealed beam with grommet & pigtail MOUNTING RUBBER
Tripod Headlamps
14 15 16 17 14 15 16 17 156-878* $149.95 156-870 170-600 157-000 156-888* 156-880 170-460 157-000 $62.95 $7.50 $17.95 NA NA $5.95 $17.95 TRIPOD HEADLAMP SET 2 units w/ bulbs & adaptors LIGHT UNIT BULB ADAPTOR TRIPOD HEADLAMP SET 2 units w/ bulbs & adaptors LIGHT UNIT BULB ADAPTOR 1 2 2 2
LHD, & cars driven on right side of road, (dip right)
Tail Lamps
36 37 38 39 40 41 42 45 46 47 48 49 50 143-800 159-200 158-018 159-100 170-700 159-300 159-400 144-000 158-400 164-900 560-275 170-800 159-900 159-600 $34.95 $9.75 $1.85 $2.95 $0.95 $20.95 $2.95 $22.95 $3.95 $7.95 $13.00 $0.95 $11.45 $3.60 TAIL LAMP ASSEMBLY LENS, genuine Lucas SCREW SET, for lenses PAD, lens mounting BULB CHROME BASE ASSY. PAD, rubber FLASHER LAMP ASSY., rear RIM, chrome GLASS LENS, red GLASS LENS, amber BULB SOCKET BODY, rubber 1500 & 1600 2 2 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
RHD, & cars driven on left side of road, (dip left)
1 2 2 2
* Note: The above Tripod headlamps are semi-sealed beam units, and are not legal for street use where D.O.T. approved headlamps are required. Right hand drive cars driven on the right side of the road (e.g. North America) require LHD units for proper dip right (low beam) versus high beam light patterns.
1600 U.S. spec. U.K. spec.

40
1-800-667-7872
Lamps
52 53 54 55
473-140 $104.95 473-150 $104.95 280-960 $9.85 159-180 159-190 280-970 NA NA $12.95
PLINTH, L/H PLINTH, R/H PLINTH PAD PLINTH, L/H PLINTH, R/H PLINTH PAD
1500
1 1 2 1 1 2
1600
Two basic tools are essential for trouble shooting electrical problems - a wiring diagram, and a 12 volt test light. A test light is an inexpensive little tool that looks like a cross between an ice pick and an electric screwdriver. Simple to use, it is connected by its clip to a ground. The sharp probe is poked around the hot leads. If the lamp lights, there is power, at least to that part of the circuit. For example, clip the test light to a bumper bolt or other good ground and touch the probe to a bulb contact on the hot side - the bulb will light (so long as the light is on). Most lamp problems are conveniently in the lamp unit itself. The great majority are caused by bad bulb contacts or corroded grounds. Dont assume that there are major problems until the non-functioning unit is completely inspected. Using the wiring diagram, work your way back through the circuit to the connectors and from there to the source of power such as the fuse box or terminal connector. By this method, you are able to determine whether an entire circuit or the individual unit is at fault. If the circuit is dead, track the problem from the fuse box or battery side of that particular circuit. Proceed through the circuit components one at a time, using the wiring diagram as a guide.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
License Plate Lamp

80 81 82 83 84 85 144-190 144-200 158-100 164-100 170-100 280-540 158-200 $43.90 $28.95 $11.95 $6.25 $0.80 $3.60 $2.75 LICENSE PLATE LAMP, genuine Lucas LICENSE PLATE LAMP, reproduction CHROME COVER GLASS LENS BULB 2 used after 1600 (c)88844 RUBBER SEAL CHROME SCREW 1 1 1 1 1/2 1 1
R/H Lamp shown
60
61
144-300 $114.95 144-400 $114.95 164-208 $50.95 164-400 $12.95 164-500 $12.95 164-600 164-700 164-605 164-705 $14.95 $14.95 $13.95 $13.95
TAIL LAMP ASSY., L/H 1600 MKII & DeLuxe TAIL LAMP ASSY., R/H (US spec w/red lens #62) LENS SET, all 4 lenses below LARGE LENS, L/H stop/tail lamp LARGE LENS, R/H stop/tail lamp SMALL LENS, L/H flasher lamp, red SMALL LENS, R/H flasher lamp, red SMALL LENS, L/H flasher lamp, amber SMALL LENS, R/H flasher lamp, amber BULB, stop/tail, dual filament BULB, flasher, single filament SOCKET, double contact SOCKET, single contact PAD BASE, R/H BASE, L/H PAD SCREW SET SCREW, stop/tail light lens SCREW, long, flasher lens SCREW, short, flasher lens PLINTH, R/H PLINTH, L/H PLINTH PAD SET
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 1
Accessory Lamps
90 162-700 162-800 91 170-500 170-510 92 157-200 157-250 157-100 94 146-300 95 157-137 96 158-000 97 157-127 98 157-087 99 157-200 157-100 100 157-117 101 407-720 407-730 $97.95 $97.95 $3.95 $3.95 $35.95 NA $35.95 $2.05 NA $1.40 NA $4.95 $35.95 $35.95 $4.95 $44.95 $44.95 DRIVING LAMP ASSY., clear FOG LAMP ASSY., clear fluted BULB for 162-700 BULB for 162-800 LENS, clear, plain LENS, amber, fluted LENS, clear, fluted NUT RETAINER SCREW PAD, rubber BULB HOLDER LENS ASSY, clear LENS ASSY, fluted CREST, Lucas BRACKET, acc. lamp, L/H BRACKET, acc. lamp, R/H (illus.) factory option A/R A/R A/R A/R A/R A/R A/R A/R A/R A/R A/R A/R 1 1 A/R 1 1
62
U.S. spec
U.K. spec.
63 64 65 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76
170-700 $0.95 170-800 $0.95 552-080 $8.95 552-070 $4.95 159-410 $2.95 159-420 NA 159-430 NA 159-440 $6.95 323-588 $17.95 158-010 $3.25 158-020 $2.85 158-030 $2.40 159-450 $104.95 159-460 $104.95 281-678 $17.95
driving lamp fog lamp
mount behind overriders
Our Moss-made accessory lamps are outstanding reproductions of the Lucas 576 lamps fitted to many British sports cars of the 50s and 60s. First class quality in all respects, lamps are supplied complete with bulbs. The wiring for one of these lamps is already in your MGA harness. It is the red and yellow wire found behind the grille. If a fog and driving lamp is to be used together, a two position switch (a second MGA headlamp switch is ideal) can be used. Wire the fog lamp to the park or first position and the driving lamp to the second. Mount the driving lamp on the left and the fog lamp on the right for best illumination.

41
MGA
Electrical
0
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 13 14 15 16 17 18 19
DASH KNOB SET, includes all knobs marked below, plus knobs for vent lever, starter or choke and heater cables. 162-100 $25.95 SWITCH, map light 150-800 $3.95 KNOB, map light 162-100* $25.95 SWITCH, wiper 150-840 $3.95 KNOB, wiper switch, with letter W 140-500 $34.95 HEADLIGHT SWITCH 150-830 $3.95 KNOB, headlight switch, with letter L 162-100* $25.95 SWITCH, fog or driving lamp 150-850 $3.95 KNOB, fog light switch, with letter F * Note: These switches are supplied with blank knobs. 146-000 $66.95 SWITCH, panel light 150-820 $3.95 KNOB, panel light switch, with letter P 162-400 $189.95 TURN SIGNAL SWITCH 323-295 $0.95 SCREW for handle 233-780 $4.95 HANDLE, original type, not included with switch 169-108 $39.90 IGNITION SWITCH ASSEMBLY 163-500 $8.95 LOCK & KEYS 140-900 $42.95 SWITCH, headlight dimmer 141-700 $19.95 SWITCH, stop light, hydraulic
150-888 $39.95
42 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 43 45
46 47 48 49
142-000 $49.75 542-100 $49.95 151-700 $29.95 165-708 $109.95 165-700 $74.95 165-800 $74.95 160-200 $15.95 405-800 $11.95 405-900 $11.95 141-750 $19.95 141-400 $159.95
REGULATOR (screw connectors) 1 REGULATOR (Lucar connectors) 1 COVER 1 HORN SET, (1 high, 1 low) repro. of orig. style Windtone horns 1 HORN, L/H high note (reproduction, optional) 1 HORN, R/H low note (reproduction, standard) 1 BRACKET, horn mounting, included with horns A/R HORN BRKT., L/H, on chassis optional 1 HORN BRKT., R/H, on chassis (illus.) standard 1 FLASHER UNIT 1 RELAY, turn signals 1500 1
If there is trouble with the rear lamps on your MGA, check the harness ground at the rightrear of the frame, near the rear spring shackle. Clean up this ground as well as the connector bundle. The wiring is exposed to the elements at this point and it is common to find the ground wire broken off. Trouble in the license lamp is usually corrosion at the bulb holder. Check the wires as they pass through the body and inspect the connector inside the lamp. To polarize a generator - disconnect the wires and run a wire from the control box "A" terminal. Spark the "A" terminal wire against the generator "F" terminal. Do not hook this up, just a brief touch will do, then reconnect the generator.
Dont waste a lot of time chasing down electrical problems until you have first checked the battery connections. If there is no power at all, it is most likely to be the battery connections, especially if you don't service the battery on a regular basis. The next most likely suspect is the starter switch and its connections. The least likely is the key switch. 22 23 25 26 27 28 29 145-600 233-770 145-800 161-900 361-080 331-340 161-500 $39.95 $4.95 $43.95 $1.95 $12.95 $25.95 $5.75 HORN PUSH BRACKET, horn bottom STARTER SWITCH BOOT, rubber BRACKET, starter switch, welds to chassis CABLE, starter COUPLER, starter cable 1 1 1 2 1 1 1
Carburetor cleaner is a great help in cleaning wiring to identify color coding, but do not allow a hot wire such as the horn lead to spark against the chassis while using it. The resultant spark will cause a flash and may set the wiring harness on fire. Dampen a rag with cleaner and use it to clean the wires. 30 31 32 33 34 35 36a 36b 37 38 39 42 144-100 158-510 158-500 171-000 158-520 142-400 151-500 324-745 171-000 162-500 146-700 146-800 $21.50 $12.95 $6.95 $0.95 $1.75 $25.40 $3.65 $0.80 $0.95 $39.50 $0.70 $0.80 MAP LIGHT ASSEMBLY COVER GLASS BULB SEALING RING LAMP, turn indicator JEWEL, green WASHER BULB FUSE BOX FUSE, 35 amp FUSE, 50 amp 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 A/R A/R A/R
1-800-667-7872
Starter & Generator
No. No. Part No. Price (each) Description Application Qty. Req.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
Generator
79 80 140-200 162-900 560-070 147-300 125-100 147-400 147-600 147-200 147-250 $79.95 NA $57.95 NA $9.75 $39.95 $0.90 $3.95 $3.20 GENERATOR, new (includes # 86, 87, 89, 90) ARMATURE all FIELD COIL SET all except #22258 PLATE, drive end #22258 only BALL BEARING, drive end all PLATE, commutator end #22258 only BUSHING, commutator plate BRUSH SET orig. generators marked #22258 BRUSH SET orig. generators marked #22700, #22704 and replacement generator #22715 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Battery
459-410* $122.45 459-415* $101.30 473-178 $79.95 50 473-200 473-210 473-188 473-198 473-180 473-110 215-610 332-010 332-080 332-065 332-035 332-070 332-025 332-205 $46.95 $46.95 $7.95 $8.95 $3.95 $0.50 $5.95 $14.95 $29.95 $14.60 $19.50 $8.40 $23.95 $0.35 BATTERY, 6 volt, tar top (original style) BATTERY, 6 volt, modern Lucas COMPLETE BATTERY BRACKET KIT BATTERY BRKT. ASSEMBLY, R/H weld to frame BATTERY BRKT. ASSEMBLY, L/H BOLT SET, 4 bolts & nuts PAD SET, 4 pads BRACKET, battery hold-down PAD, bracket LUCAS BATTERY DECAL (modern logo) CABLE, battery to frame CABLE, battery to starter switch CABLE, starter switch to starter CABLE, between batteries CABLE, engine to frame replacement type replacement type replacement type 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 A/R
82 83 84
51 52 53 54 55 57 58 59 60 61
85 86 87 88 89 90
147-700 310-310 327-030 473-130 433-670 433-710 324-050 148-120
NA $0.70 $0.70 $60.35 $5.95 $7.95 $0.15 NA
SPRING SET, brush (all) NUT, securing pulley WOODRUFF KEY PULLEY FAN FAN LOCKWASHER SUNDRIES KIT, misc. small parts
1 1 1 1 #22258 1 #22700, #22704, #22715 1 1 1
62
CABLE, battery to starter switch repro of original SCREW, orig. helmet head cables
*Note: Batteries are "dry charged" - electrolyte must be added.
93
Starter Wiring Harnesses

63 356-170 $219.95 357-500 $289.95 356-180 $219.95 162-000 $0.60 161-600 $1.00 161-720 $2.90 162-200 $0.35 161-800 $2.10 470-820 $1.85 470-830 $0.70 161-850 $1.95 WIRING HARNESS, fabric bound, PVC wires 1500 WIRING HARNESS, fabric bound, lacquer braid wires 1500 WIRING HARNESS, fabric binding, PVC wires 1600 & MKII WIRE CONNECTOR, single WIRE CONNECTOR, double WIRE CONNECTOR, 3-way WIRE TIP, for wire end STRAP, tail lamp cable CLIP, battery cable & harness CLIP, tail lamp harness RUBBER STRAP 1 1 1 A/R A/R A/R A/R 2 6 2 1 93 94 541-545 $189.95 541-540 $89.95 $11.70 95 NA 96 148-300 NA 97 148-600 $1.95 98 163-300 NA 99 148-500 $1.45 100 149-000 $5.95 149-010 $5.75 101a 149-100 101b 149-110 103 104 105 106 107 148-800 148-900 148-700 148-200 150-500 150-170 108 322-620 322-455 113 149-800 NA $4.15 $18.95 $49.00 NA $6.95 $18.85 $5.20 $0.65 $1.60 NA STARTER, new, replacement STARTER, rebuilt, exchange CORE CHARGE FOR 541-540 STARTER, REBUILT ARMATURE PLATE, drive end BUSHING, drive end PLATE, commutator end BUSHING, commutator end BRUSH SET, rectangular (original type) BRUSH SET, triangular (some rebuilt starters) SPRING SET, brush SPRING SET, brush PINION SLEEVE & NUT SPRING SPRING, main NUT SUNDRIES KIT, starter BOLT, starter to engine BOLT, starter to engine CAP, shaft end as fitted - note inner loops of springs 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 1 43
64 65 66 67 70 71 72 73
Wiring harnesses include the main harness and three sub-harnesses (some exceptions). These are color coded as original so that your workshop manual wiring diagram can be referred to should any problems arise in the future. Headlamp pigtails #171-400 are not included.
1500 to (c)117330 1500 from (c)117331
MGA
Dash
0
Burl Wood Dashboards

Dress up your dashboard with one of these beautifully handcrafted highly figured walnut burl veneer dashboards. Available unfinished, or with a durable hand rubbed synthetic finish. These replace the original dashboard completely. Installation is reversable, should you become a born-again purist. Complete with speaker screen and all required hardware, these fit roadsters only. 233-610 $394.95 Finished dashboard

44
1-800-667-7872
Dash
249-540 249-550 249-570 249-600 472-028 472-078 472-030 472-040 472-050 472-060 326-520 233-750 233-760 331-340 331-350 150-860 150-870
$1.65 $1.65 $1.65 $1.65 $2.95 $26.95 $8.65 $8.75 $9.65 $1.40 $0.20 $8.45 $5.95 $25.95 $25.95 $3.95 $3.95
DASH PIPING, black DASH PIPING, red DASH PIPING, tan DASH PIPING, white
sold per foot
A/R A/R A/R A/R 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1
45 46 47
140-500 $34.95 150-830 $3.95 146-000 $66.95
HEADLIGHT SWITCH KNOB, headlight switch, with letter L SWITCH, panel light
1 1 1
3 6 7 8 9 10 11 13 14 15 16
CLIP SET, piping to dash RADIO BLANKING PLATE SET PLATE, blanking BEZEL, blanking plate BADGE, on plate CLIP, plate retaining SPEED NUT SCREEN, speaker PLATE, blanking STARTER CABLE, with knob, letter S CHOKE CABLE, with knob, letter C KNOB, choke cable, with letter C KNOB, starter cable, with letter S for original cables must be cemented on
When MGAs were set up for left hand drive, the instrument positions were not changed accordingly. It is a good idea to change the fuel gauge and combination gauge position, as the ignition key switch is located above this important gauge. Your key ring and keys will block your view of the gauge and you may be distracted by having to move things out of the way in order to see what is going on with your engine. Some owners have found it desirable to change tach and speedometer positions also. Remember, when working with the dash wiring for any reason, it is a good idea to disconnect the battery. Failure of the green flasher pilot lamp to light when the indicator is flashing is most often a bad ground at the bulb fitting behind the dash. Reach behind the dash and give the bulb holder a turn or two against the dash to tighten and clean the ground. 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 150-820 $3.95 162-100 $25.95 150-840 $3.95 162-100 $25.95 150-800 $3.95 162-100 $25.95 150-850 $3.95 KNOB, panel light switch, with letter P SWITCH, wiper, with plain unlettered knob KNOB, wiper switch, with letter W SWITCH, map light, with correct knob KNOB, map light SWITCH, fog or driving lamp, w/ plain unlettered knob KNOB, fog light switch, with letter F 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
To cut a wound control cable such as the starter, choke or heater cable, pull the control knob out of the outer sheath. The distance between the knob and the mounting bezel should be equal to the amount of cable needed to reach and operate the control. Hold the cable assembly against an anvil (on your bench vise) and cut with a sharp chisel. Cut with one blow, as repeated blows will spread the inner wire. A large, very sharp side cutter can also be used. It is a good idea to leave a little extra inner cable so the end, which soon frays, may be trimmed from time to time. You can also lightly solder the end to prevent fraying. 17 18 19 20 21 22 360-380* NA 360-350* NA 361-005 $6.45 360-085 $12.65 361-761 $142.95 360-290* NA 361-045 $5.95 360-075 $9.45 SPEEDOMETER, rebuilt, exchange TACHOMETER, rebuilt, exchange GLASS LENS, tach & speedo BEZEL, chromed, tach & speedo OIL/WATER GAUGE, new, replacement FUEL GAUGE, rebuilt, exchange GLASS LENS, oil & fuel gauges BEZEL, chromed, oil & fuel gauges 1 1 2 2 1 1 2 2
Note: Order our dash knob set, part #150-888, and save over individual prices. Set includes all 8 knobs indicated on this page, plus 3 knobs for heater control. 150-888 $39.95 DASH KNOB SET 55 56 57 58 59 59a 60 61 62 63 144-100 158-510 158-500 171-100 158-520 158-320 142-400 151-500 171-000 324-745 $21.50 $12.95 $6.95 $4.75 $1.75 $4.95 $25.40 $3.65 $0.95 $0.80 MAP LIGHT ASSEMBLY COVER GLASS BULB SEALING RING BULB HOLDER, map light LAMP, turn indicator JEWEL, green BULB WASHER, behind jewel
1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1
* Note: These gauges have become impossible for us to obtain. If you need your old gauge rebuilt, inquire to either of the following for rebuilding services: West Valley Instruments (818) 758-9500 MO-MA (505) 766-6661 19314 Van Owen 1321 2nd St. NW Reseda, CA 91335 Albuquerque, NM 87102 23 25 171-000 331-120 021-388 26 331-110 331-115 27 435-548 27a 435-515 28 376-060 29 435-530 30a 233-740 30b 233-745 31 233-775 32 233-710 233-715 233-720 233-725 33 34 35 36 37 38 281-920 280-890 280-870 360-370 233-770 281-808 281-890 281-900 680-630 40 145-600 40a 233-785 41 169-108 42 163-500 43 162-400 43a 323-295 44 233-780 $0.95 $16.50 $16.95 $13.95 NA $19.95 $0.40 $26.45 $12.95 $8.95 $8.95 $21.95 $61.95 NA $69.95 NA $6.95 $2.95 $1.95 $3.05 $4.95 $34.50 $1.20 $1.95 $0.90 $39.95 NA $39.90 $8.95 $189.95 $0.95 $4.95 INSTRUMENT BULB CABLE, tachometer LHD only CABLE, tachometer RHD only CABLE, speedometer LHD only CABLE, speedometer RHD only TUBE, oil gauge to fitting WASHER, leather, oil tube OIL LINE, flexible FITTING, tube to flex line DASH SUPPORT, R/H DASH SUPPORT, L/H BEZEL, speaker coupes & twin cam, 1600 MKII rdst. TRIM, dash bottom (LHD) TRIM, dash bottom (RHD) TRIM, dash bottom (LHD) TRIM, dash bottom (RHD) 4 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 1
Electrical Trouble-Shooting
Listed below is a guide for trouble-shooting electrical problems on your MGA and making sense out of standard Lucas wiring harness color coding. Sorting out electrical problems requires a step-by-step, methodical approach. Identify the problem, examine the wiring diagram, and trace the circuit connection to connection (usually from the hot side), until the problem is found. As a rule: Wires do not fail. The bullet connectors may corrode at the ends of the wires (rarely), or the connections may be loose (common!), but the wires are usually OK. Another rule: Wires begin and end outside of the loom. There is no reason to cut through the harness binding. Warning: Approaching an electrical problem without a test light and wiring diagram is a certain route to insanity. Brown Battery Circuit. Feeds light and ignition switches from control box terminal A1. Feeds horns from control box terminal A to A1 fuse box terminal. Always hot. Accessories are sometimes installed at fuse box terminal A1, but should always be fused separately. Generator Circuit. Generator terminal D (armature) to control box terminal D and ignition warning light. Hot with ignition on. Ignition Circuit. All essential requirements when ignition is switched on but are not fused. Hot with ignition on. Auxiliary Circuits. Fed through the ignition switch and fused. Hot with ignition on. Headlamp Circuit. Fed from terminal on light switch. Unfused. Side and Tail Lamp Circuits. Fed from terminal S1 or T on light switch. Includes fog lamps and panel lamps. Earth or Ground Circuits. Components not internally grounded are grounded to the chassis. Unfused.
1600 MKII & twin cam rdst. 1 1 all coupes 1 1 1 2 2 4 1 1 1
CLIP SET, temp. sender tube RING, rubber, large (4") RING, rubber, small (2") KNURLED NUT, speedo & tach BRACKET, horn button GROMMET SET, firewall (33 pcs.) GROMMET, oil line GROMMET, speedo & tach cables 2 GROMMET, temp. gauge capillary 1 HORN BUTTON GASKET, horn button IGNITION SWITCH ASSY., w/ lock & keys LOCK & 2 KEYS TURN SIGNAL SWITCH SCREW for handle HANDLE, original type, black
Yellow White Green Blue Red Black
1 1 1 1 1 1 1

45
MGA
Twin Cam & MKII DeLuxe

0
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
The Twin Cam MGA was a significant development for MG: The Twin Cam engine has little in common with the push-rod B series engines. The Twin Cam, or Twinkie, was in production from September 1958 until June of 1960. A total of 2111 were produced and numbered separately from the regular production. The 1600 MKII DeLuxe was numbered in the regular series and no reliable figures are available regarding total production. Some sources claim as many as 500 of these cars existed, but recent research shows somewhat less than that. This rarest and most desirable of all MGAs represented the MGA at its highest peak. The parts listed on this page fit only the Twin Cam and MKII Deluxe models, with the exception of the engine parts, which fit the Twin Cam only. Body, frame, electrical, interior, and most suspension parts for these models are the same as standard MGAs. 1 180-770* $229.95 MASTER CYLINDER, brake (Girling replacement) 180-495* $10.95 REPAIR KIT for replacement cylinder 180-780* $63.95 REPAIR KIT for original Dunlop cylinder * Note: Original Dunlop master cylinders are no longer available. The Girling replacement incorporates a round white nylon reservoir. If appearance is important, we suggest you rebuild your original cylinder. 2 181-590 $239.95 PISTON & CYLINDER, front calipers 2 per caliper 181-600 $44.00 REPAIR KIT, front calipers, does both calipers 181-580 $279.95 PISTON & CYLINDER, rear calipers 2 per caliper 181-610 $52.50 REPAIR KIT, rear calipers, does both calipers 3 182-220 $19.95 PAD SET, front & rear 1 set for 2 calipers 4 182-230 $149.95 PAD SET, hand brake 5 280-715 $24.95 EXCLUDER, fume & dust, brake & clutch pedals 7 181-560 $24.95 BRAKE HOSE, front 180-830 $19.95 BRAKE HOSE, rear 183-178 $98.95 BRAKE PIPE SET, LHD 8 182-160 $129.95 BRAKE ROTOR, front 182-165 $119.95 BRAKE ROTOR, rear 331-180 $27.95 CABLE, hand brake 296-460 $129.95 296-395 $48.95 296-465 $53.45 296-330 $2.70 474-010 NA 425-550 $7.65 425-600 $7.65 425-000 $19.95 474-040 $5.95 331-095 $14.95 413-020 413-030 296-330 46 $7.95 $16.95 $2.70 HEAD GASKET SET HEAD GASKET CONVERSION GASKET SET OIL PAN GASKET TIMING CHAIN THRUST WASHER SET, standard THRUST WASHER SET, 0.005" BEARING SET, idler shaft in block FAN BELT ACCELERATOR CABLE ENGINE MOUNT, L/H ENGINE MOUNT, R/H GASKET, oil pan 1 1 1
12 13 14 15 16 17 18
180-790 180-990 200-200 200-205 408-425 513-316 513-127 584-100 360-435
$74.95 $12.15 $59.95 $59.95 $33.10 $89.95 $5.95 $16.95 $32.95
MASTER CYLINDER, clutch REPAIR KIT, clutch master cylinder WHEEL NUT, knock-off, R/H WHEEL NUT, knock-off, L/H TWIN CAM MOTIF CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER REPAIR KIT, slave cylinder HOSE, clutch slave cylinder HEATER VALVE FUEL PUMP, square body RADIATOR HOSE, top RADIATOR HOSE, bottom
1 1 2 2 3 1 1 1 1
377-085 $259.95 474-020 $12.70 474-030 $10.95
Twin Cam only
1 1 1
452-100 $269.95 STAINLESS STEEL EXHAUST SYSTEM Uses stock exhaust manifold. Does not include clamps and hangers. Note : Twin Cam carburetors are on pages 16-17.
4 1 4 1 2 1 1 2 1 1 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
Dunlop four wheel disc brake systems fitted to the Twin Cam and MKII DeLuxe chassis are entirely different from the Lockheed disc/drum combinations fitted to the standard MGAs. The hand brake is independent of the hydraulic system. Two friction pad carriers are fitted to the top of the rear calipers. Adjustment must be carried out at the hand brake caliper units, not the cable relay lever. Release the hand brake. Slacken the brass adjuster nut on the relay lever so that the cable hangs loosely. Tighten each adjuster bolt until the pads just touch the rotor. Take up any slack at the relay lever, making sure that there is no pre-load in the cable. Unscrew each adjuster bolt about one third of a turn. Make sure that the rotors rotate freely. Overheating is deadly to Twin Cams. Correct timing and mixture strength are vital to twin cam operation. Pay strict attention to the timing specifications. Do not let the engine ping, a pre-ignition condition fatal to Twin Cam engines. Use the highest octane fuel you can obtain and make sure that your mixture settings are not too lean. The timing chains, gears, and distributor breaker plate must be in perfect condition. Since many Twin Cam parts are not available, proper maintenance is essential.
10
Twin Cam only
11
Twin Cam & MKII DeLuxe 1 1 1
1-800-667-7872
Cockpit Fittings
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
321-810 $44.35 HARDWARE KIT for all cockpit rails 1 453-718 $71.95 FRONT RAIL, uncovered, w/ rubber, hardware & end caps 1 282-860 $12.95 RUBBER STRIP 1 470-565 $2.75 T BOLT, with washers & nut 6 472-170 $12.95 DOOR CORNER RAIL, L/H, aluminum 1 472-180 $12.95 DOOR CORNER RAIL, R/H, aluminum 1 453-255 $24.95 DOOR TOP RAIL, L/H, wood 1 453-260 $24.95 DOOR TOP RAIL, R/H, wood 1 453-265 $32.95 REAR COCKPIT RAIL, wood 1 321-828 $14.95 HARDWARE SET, rear rail 1 321-808 $7.75 HARDWARE SET, door rails, does not include #20 2 10 472-460 $14.95 REAR CORNER RAIL, L/H, aluminum 1 11 472-470 $14.95 REAR CORNER RAIL, R/H, aluminum 1 472-128 $19.95 DOOR SEAL FINISHER SET, chrome 1 16 472-130* $6.95 FINISHER, R/H, rear 1 472-140* $6.95 FINISHER, L/H, rear 1 17 472-150 $6.95 FINISHER, R/H, front 1 472-160 $6.95 FINISHER, L/H, front 1 * Note: The rear door seal finishers supplied are the type used prior to car number 101292 (i.e. all the last 7800 cars). Although the late finishers are not available, the early ones may be easily trimmed to match them. 19 470-570 $4.85 SOCKET, side curtain 2 20 324-425 $1.65 WASHER 2 21 310-390 $0.55 NUT, for socket 2 22 405-300 $6.95 PLATE, side curtain 2 23 323-115 $0.10 SCREW 6 24 405-100 $5.95 NUT, side curtain 1500 2 25 405-150 $7.95 NUT, side curtain 1600 & MKII 2 26 SIDE CURTAIN STOWAGE BAGS (see page 49) 1 27 226-308 $1.00 FASTENER, Lift the Dot 7 28 226-328 $1.00 STUD & WASHER 1 29 226-630 $2.35 STUD, flanged 4/6 32 SPARE TIRE COVER - see carpet listings on page 50 1 34 241-000 $20.95 ASHTRAY, original factory option 1 35 451-095 $5.95 STIFFENER, door panel 2 Note: These stiffener bars should be painted to match door panels. Theyre often missing, but are necessary to properly support the door panels. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
321-958
$15.95
37 38
323-948
$13.95
HARDWARE KIT, 132 pieces 1 This kit includes all interior chrome Phillips head screws required for panels, end caps, fixing plates, etc. SCREW SET, door & trim panels, included in panel kit 1
Original type 2-part door seal with separate furflex and neoprene seals. Included are 12 securing clips per yard. Sold by the yard. 249-808* $27.95 DOOR SEAL, black 249-818* $27.95 DOOR SEAL, red sold per yard 249-848* NA DOOR SEAL, grey (orig. type) 249-838* $27.95 DOOR SEAL, blue 280-007 $15.20 NEOPRENE SEAL 803-400 $0.25 CLIP 249-607* $12.95 249-637* NA 249-667* $42.95 259-907* $4.05 DOOR SEAL, black velour/rubber DOOR SEAL, red velour/rubber DOOR SEAL, tan velour/rubber
A/R A/R A/R A/R A/R A/R A/R A/R A/R A/R
sold per yard (repl. type)
DOOR SEAL, black plastic/rubber, sold per foot
* Roadsters require 4 yards (12 feet) per car. Coupes require 7 yards (21 feet) per car.
40 241-980 $49.60 UNDER DASH PAD SET coupe, LHD 1 Note: This reproduction of the original coupe sound-deadening pads fits roadsters as well. Not only does it reduce cockpit engine noise, but it helps insulate against excess heat in the footwells. Makes motoring in your MGA much more comfortable. Originally fitted to some early coupes. (These are easily fitted during a full restoration, but are time consuming to install on a fully assembled car.)

47
MGA
0 Top & Tonneau Hardware
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
No.
Part No.
Price (each)
Description
Application
Qty. Req.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 7a 8 9 10
226-308 $1.00 227-408 $0.50 244-200 $15.95 470-747 $4.95 470-757 $2.25 406-890 $219.95 323-260 $0.50 453-250 $44.95 406-200 $8.75 406-920 $5.25
TOPS are listed in detail on page 49. FASTENER, Lift the Dot, top EYELET, top RETAINER, rear of top RETAINER, on body CUP WASHER TOP FRAME SCREW, top frame to body HEADER RAIL, wood WING BOLT SOCKET, header rail
6 2 1 2 2 1 6 1 2 2
11 12 15 16 20 21 22 23 24 25 26
453-225 240-520
$18.95 $4.65
LATCH, header rail CATCH, windshield center
1600 & MKII
1 1
226-308 226-408 226-708 315-168 227-500 226-630 323-600 227-310
$1.00 $1.90 $0.90 $1.45 $1.10 $2.35 $0.15 $0.25
TONNEAU COVERS are listed in detail on page 49. FASTENER, Lift the Dot tonneau STUD, wood screw STUD & NUT, machine screw WASHER SET, clear nylon (set of 10) under studs TURNBUTTON STUD, flanged, alt. for ft. tonneau fixing SCREW for #24 FINISHER
6 A/R A/R A/R 2 A/R A/R 2
Seat Components
"Competition Deluxe" (rare factory option) Coupe Roadster 1 643-875 643-885 454-045* 454-055* 321-878* $154.95 $154.95 $42.95A $42.95 $13.50 SEAT FRAME, roadster, L/H SEAT FRAME, roadster, R/H SEAT SLIDE PAIR, L/H seat SEAT SLIDE PAIR, R/H seat SEAT SLIDE INSTALLATION KIT BASE ASSY., L/H (plywood, w/riser & screen) BASE ASSY., R/H (plywood, w/riser & screen) BASE ASSY., L/H (plywood, w/riser & screen) BASE ASSY., R/H (plywood, w/riser & screen) CUSHION, L/H seat bottom, uncovered CUSHION, R/H seat bottom, uncovered CUSHION, L/H seat bottom, uncovered CUSHION, R/H seat bottom, uncovered roadster 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2
641-905* $103.10 641-915* $103.10 640-400* 640-410* NA NA
coupe
641-925* $49.95 641-935* $49.95 640-420* 640-430* NA NA
roadster
coupe
640-460* $39.50
PAD, seat back (rubberized horsehair) roadster & coupe These pads must be trimmed to fit.
Note: These illustrations and descriptions are for reference only: "Competition-Deluxe" seats are not available. Parts listed do not fit Competition Deluxe seats.
640-470* $12.95 BACKBOARD roadster 640-480* NA BACKBOARD coupe * Note: These items are for standard roadster and coupe seats only. They do not fit the competition deluxe seat.
2 2

48
1-800-667-7872
Tops & Tonneau Covers

Tops and Tonneaus
Moss MGA tops and tonneau covers are in a class by themselves. The rear windows of the cloth and canvas tops* are sewn and double-bound in the very best European manner. We have carefully patterned, designed, and tested our tops and tonneau covers to provide perfect fit and years of satisfaction. In addition to our top-grade vinyl, we are offering tops and tonneau covers in Haartz Stayfast cloth, which is a heavy fabric of American-made, solution-dyed acrylic of 3-ply construction with rubber center. Stayfast resists the effects of sun, weather, and atmospheric pollution better than any other convertible top fabric. It offers the ultimate in long service life and color fastness. Note: Early 1500 and late 1500 - 1600 tops are interchangeable. Tonneau covers listed are for left hand drive cars only. Right hand drive tonneau covers are available. Call for information. (* The vinyl tops are not made by Moss Motors, and have dielectrically welded windows as original for the MKII.)
Black Stayfast Cloth
Black Vinyl
Tan Stayfast Cloth

243-950 $429.95 243-960 $459.95 NA
Grey Vinyl
White Vinyl
Tops
One window, early 1500 Three window, late 1500 - 1600 Three window, MKII 243-955 $429.95 243-965 $459.95 NA 242-330 $249.95 242-310 $249.95 242-950 $249.95 242-335 242-325 NA NA NA 242-340 242-320 242-960 NA $249.95 $249.95
Tonneau Covers
Short style, mounts on rear cockpit rail Long style, mounts behind rear cockpit rail 243-985 $234.95 243-995 $234.95 241-420 $159.95 241-520 $169.95 243-980 243-990 $234.95 $234.95 241-435 241-535 NA NA 241-430 241-530 NA $219.95
MGA 1500 Flip-Up

Side Curtain Sets These are exact reproductions of the flip-up type side curtains originally fitted to all MGA 1500s. While not as practical as our other types of sliding window side curtains, these will satisfy most restoration purists. Black Stayfast canvas flip-up side curtain set 259-645 $550.00 Tan Stayfast canvas flip-up side curtain set 259-635 NA Black Durable canvas flip-up side curtain set 259-268 $549.95 Black Vinyl flip-up side curtain set 259-258 $549.95
MGA 1600 Fabric Covered Side Curtain Sets

We now stock the original style fabric-covered side curtain sets for MGA 1600. We have made these in the same Haartz Stayfast fabric and vinyl to exactly match the tops listed above. Black Stayfast fabric side curtain set 259-615 NA Black Durable canvas side curtain set 259-628 $639.95 Black Vinyl side curtain set 259-618 $524.95 Tan Stayfast fabric side curtain set 259-625 $639.95 Tan Durable canvas side curtain set 259-638 NA Grey Vinyl side curtain set 259-620 NA
MGA Side Curtains (replacement)

We started with the original sliding plexiglass aluminum-framed side curtains as supplied with the factory hardtops, then made a few changes and improvements to ensure a perfect fit for all MGAs with the standard pattern convertible tops. These side curtains are extremely well made and nearly identical in construction to the factory optional side curtains. We firmly believe our new aluminum-framed side curtains are a permanent solution to a difficult problem. A quality product at an affordable price! (Not illustrated.) 259-648 $344.95
Side Curtain Stowage Bags

Completely pre-cut and sewn. Ready for installation behind the seats. 1500 & 1600 to (c)78249 1600 from (c)78250 & MkII Black 243-280 243-285 Tan 243-300 243-305 Red 243-290 243-295 Grey 243-350 243-355 $149.95 $159.95

49
MGA
0 Panel & Carpet Kits
Panel Kits
DeLuxe Panel Kits: Made as original from durable vinyl, the DeLuxe Kit includes 2 front kick panels, 2 front frame covers, 2 door panels, 2 assembled door pockets for the roadsters and 2 rear kick panels. You also receive sufficient leather, vinyl and piping to cover all door and cockpit rails, and 1600 MKII and coupe dashboards, and vinyl to cover MKII and coupe scuttle panels (between dash and windshield). Basic Panel Kits: While not as complete as our DeLuxe Kits, these budget kits, for roadsters only, are made with the same dedication to quality. They include 2 door panels, 2 front kick panels, 2 front frame covers that are fully finished and ready to install. Also included is sufficient vinyl and piping to cover all cockpit rails, late vinyl-covered dashboards and existing door pockets. Original Combination Kit: For those who desire the entire package, this kit is the answer. This concours quality kit combines both the leather seat kit and the deluxe panel kit. (For coupes, seat and panel kits must be ordered separately.) For free samples of our upholstery materials, order sample card #878-110.
Black with White Piping Roadster DeLuxe Vinyl Kit Basic Vinyl Kit Combination Kit Coupe DeLuxe Vinyl Kit 246-330 246-270 246-028
Black with Red Piping 246-320 246-260 246-018
Black with Blue Piping 246-340 246-280 246-038
Black with Black Piping 246-310 246-250 246-008
Red with Red Piping 246-350 246-290 246-048
Tan with Tan Piping 246-360 246-300 246-058
Grey with Grey Piping 246-365 NA 246-068
Blue with Blue Piping 246-355 NA 246-078
Price $289.95 $199.95 $759.95
246-390
246-380
246-400
246-370
246-410
246-420
246-425
246-415
$339.95
Panel Screw Set

A complete set of original type screws and washers for installing door and trim panels (included in all of our panel kits listed above). 323-948 $13.95
Carpet Kits
Carefully patterned and cut for proper fit and ease of installation, these Moss-made carpet kits include the correct rubber heelmat, all necessary studs and snaps, and edge binding where original. The main carpet set covers the seating and foot well areas. The rear carpet set, standard on the coupe and optional on roadsters, adds that finished look to your cars interior. To dress up your trunk, a trunk set and spare tire cover are also available in black and red. For free samples of our carpet material, order sample card #878-310. Black 1 2 MAIN CARPET SET Coupe or Roadster, LHD REAR CARPET SET Roadster Coupe TRUNK CARPET SET Optional on Coupe & Roadster SPARE TIRE COVER All Roadster & 1500 Coupe 1600 & MKII Coupe CARPET, per foot HEELMAT, included in #1 Main Carpet Set (Black only) Red Grey (orig. for coupe) 242-715 242-845 242-985 242-825 242-475 246-445 454-460 Price
242-705 242-835 242-975 242-815 242-465 246-435 456-295 280-990
242-725 $199.95 242-905 242-915 242-925 $72.50 $79.95 $99.95
3 4
242-935 $104.95 242-945 $69.95 456-405 $18.95 $10.95

50
1-800-667-7872
Seat Upholstery
Seat Upholstery Kits
Whether you plan to replace only seats or panels, or fully restore your MGA interior, we have what you need! If youre presently budget-conscious, our basic all-vinyl kits will give you a beautiful original style interior without the higher cost of leather. If the perfect Concours restoration or the luxury of long-wearing supple leather is what youre after, our complete leather and vinyl combination kits will delight you. All are made from the best materials available, and cut and sewn to original design specifications in our own upholstery shop. We guarantee our top quality interior kits are designed to give professional results, even when installed by the novice! Our complete seat kits are a unique combination of Concours quality, practicality and economy. Features include piping in contrasting colors when appropriate, and matching padded center armrests. Our leather seat kits are perfect reproductions of the originals with leather seating surfaces and vinyl non-wearing surfaces. Our leather is tanned and vat-dyed to the highest standards to ensure durability. Proper pleat placement and correct stitching make these the best seat cover replacement kits you can buy. In fact, were so pleased with the quality of our upholstery that we guarantee 100% satisfaction, or your money back upon return of the uninstalled kit! The same careful workmanship and concern for quality also go into our vinyl seat kits. These kits, like our leather kits, offer premium materials and factory original colors. The quality material, the proper colors, the perfect fit - all say this is how an MGA should look. The complete seat sets listed below are ready to install seat pairs with new frames, cushions, covers, and center armrest.
Black with White Piping
Black with Red Piping
Black with Blue Piping
Black with Black Piping
Red with Red Piping
Tan with Tan Piping
Grey with Grey Piping
Blue with Blue Piping
Price
Roadster
Complete Seat Sets Original Combination Leather Seat Kit and DeLuxe Panel Kit Leather Seat Kit Vinyl Seat Kit 246-118 246-028 246-128 246-018 246-148 246-038 246-138 246-008 246-158 246-048 246-168 246-058 246-178 246-068 246-188 246-078 $1,399.00 $759.95
246-030 246-150
246-020 246-140
246-040 246-160
246-010 246-130
246-050 246-170
246-060 246-180
246-065 NA
246-055 NA
$499.95 $299.95
Coupe
Leather Seat Kit Vinyl Seat Kit 246-090 246-210 246-080 246-200 246-100 246-220 246-070 246-190 246-110 246-230 246-120 246-240 246-125 NA 246-115 NA $499.95 $299.95
Note: We strongly advise ordering upholstery items on a Backorder Yes basis. These parts are made to order in our own upholstery shop and stocks are kept to a minimum because of the wide variety of products involved. Upholstery orders can usually be filled within a couple of weeks of the order date. If you order seats and panels on separate occasions, we recommend that you not leave more than 3 - 4 months between purchases. While we make every effort to match colors as closely as possible, dye lots do vary. For a guaranteed close as humanly possible match, its best to order your interior as a complete set. For free samples of our upholstery materials, please request sample card #878-110.

51
MGA
Windshield Installation
0
Note: Our (and possibly some other) replacement MGA windshields are relieved for several inches at the corners to clear the corner brackets, and do not require the rubber packing nor the original wooden packing referred to in paragraph #3 above. Only the glazing rubber should be used with these windshields.
1-800-667-7872
52
Accessories
Wood Rim Steering Wheel

Only for MGAs, this Moss-made reproduction of the light alloy Italian Style optional competition item is the wheel to have on your finely restored car. Centerpiece #263-110 sold separately. 263-255 $499.95
Identification Plates
High quality photo-etched reproductions of the original plates will give your car the finishing just like new touch. A. Heater Number Plate 408-350 $3.40 B. Heater Caution Plate 408-360 $2.95 C. Patent Number Plate 408-750 $3.95 D. MG Valve Cover Plate 408-800 $5.95 E. Valve Cover Patent # Plate 408-810 $4.95 F. Chassis Number ID Plate 408-720 $9.95 (from late 1500 thru MkII) G. Auster Windshield Plate 408-790 $2.95 Rivets for Auster Plate 325-210 $0.25
Factory Style Luggage Rack

This luggage rack mounts to the trunk lid on wide chrome plated straps. 244-700 $209.95
Aluminum Cockpit Trim Sets

Made of polished ribbed aluminum, these attractive and practical cover sets are supplied with mounting screws. Frame Cover Set (shown) - Four piece set covers the exposed frame sections in the interior. 240-500 $33.95 Threshold Plate Set - Covers and protects sills from scuffs. 240-600 $19.950 Scuff Plate Set - Protects the lower front corners of your door panels where your shoe always hits the door. 240-700 $23.95 Throttle Plate - Prevents (or covers up) carpet wear where your throttle foot rubs the carpet. 240-900 $14.85
Thermostat Bypass Blanking Sleeve Vintage Style Seatbelts

Keep yourself and yours in the car by installing a pair of seatbelts today! Belts are black with solid steel chrome plated aircraft type buckles. Sold individually, mounting hardware included. 222-235 $22.95 Fine reproduction of the original works competition part 11G176. For sustained maximum power and speed, such as under racing conditions, it is advantageous to remove the thermostat, but only when this sleeve is fitted. 434-135 $15.95

53
MGA
Tech Tips
Does your car let you down every time you try to start it, or those wipers only work when it is not raining? Perhaps the indicators go dim every time you apply the brakes, and the horn only operates when the lights are off. Before you go out to buy new lights, horns, switch gear, voltage rectifiers and anything else that carries an electrical current, it may be worthwhile spending time checking out the wiring rather than shelling out on new parts. Quite often I have found that electrical components supposedly faulty, are perfectly all right, i.e., blown headlamps which are intact, switches that work when connected to a multi-tester, horns that stop making funny gurgling noises and operate correctly when connected to the battery for a test. Many electrical faults are caused by two frequently overlooked factors, either working separately, or together to produce a variety of interesting visual and sometimes pyrotechnic effects. The first of these factors is simply caused by age and the climate - electrorheumatism if you like. The second is caused by that stalwart of the motoring world, Captain Accessory! I am always surprised by the large number of good quality products on the market (and this does include radios, etc.) which are let down either by the cheap, easy-to-use connectors sold with the kit, or by hash wiring on the part of the installer. Fitting any accessory should be dealt with in the same way that any other task should be undertaken on a vehicle - properly. Connections should be mechanically and electrically sound. The worst electrical problems I have faced have been caused by bodged wiring or faulty connections. Easy-to-use connectors often provide me with hours of entertainment, as does unwrapping electrical insulation tape to find wires that have been just cut, stripped back and twisted together. It always works for a while! And its not bodged wiring - some products are of an appalling quality. For example, I have tried various different HT leads in my car to improve the quality of the spark, reduce resistance, and provide better ignition. Most of these leads have been useless. It doesnt matter two hoots that the PTFE casing and superior quality copper core offers less resistance than the normal standard item - what matters is that if the cap doesnt fit the spark plug, it will just bounce off. One famous make had such appalling connections that it would not fit into the standard Lucas distributor. If you are going to tackle any electrical work for your car, then do it properly and do it once. Throw away those cheap connectors ad get the right tools to do the job properly - because I can guarantee that if you dont, that one day youll wish you had - or even worse, youll get rid of the car because it keeps going wrong. (Ive picked up a few cheap cars like that which sing after two or three hours with a soldering iron!) Get the Right Tools: 1. Soldering Iron - Get one with: 5 to 15 watts output, stay clean tips, decent stand, and PTFE leads (which make the iron easy to handle. 2. You probably already own one of those multi-purpose devices that cuts, strips wires and fits connectors. Throw it in the trash. Buy instead: Long Nose Pliers, Side Cutters, Wire Strippers, Insulation Tape, and Solder (60 - 40 lead/tin mix with flux incorporated). 3. Connectors - Get the type of connectors that are already in use on your car spade connectors and bullet connectors (that can be soldered) and throw the crimp connectors into a bin! Three important safety tips: 1. Disconnect the Battery A fully charged battery can use around 120 amps to turn over a cold car engine. Making a mistake and accidentally connecting the hot lead to the earth can have some interesting affects, i.e.: i. Any wire involved in a direct connection will act like a fuse and melt (this includes HT wire). ii. The battery could explode if an HT wire does not fuse quickly enough. iii. 120 amps is enough to weld your screwdriver to any object very easily. iv. You can receive nasty burns if you use yourself as a suitable earthing point. (Remember DC current differs from AC in that it does not change direction - once
Diagnosing Wiring Troubles! (Words of Wisdom to Live and Drive By)
you get to grips with DC it wont let go!) 2. Holding the soldering iron Never grab the soldering iron if it starts to fall. Sounds obvious, but there are still plenty of electrical engineers around who hold out their left hand when greeting somebody! 3. Suitable wiring Finally, make sure that the wires you are using have the correct current capacity for the power they have to take. Using cable that is too thin is the electrical equivalent of reducing three lanes of motor way into one - total breakdown - if the current is much higher than the wire, the wire will act like a fuse and melt. Making Connections 1. Spade connectors Strip back 1/4 of wire without ripping out half of the strands, (if you have never used wire strippers before, have plenty of practice with some old bits of wire) twist the strands together and solder the bare end. Always heat the wire with the soldering iron and apply the solder to the wire while it is still in contact with the iron. The wire must be hot enough for the solder to flow into the wire strands - but dont keep the iron there for too long, otherwise the outer sleeve of the wire will melt back. It is an art worth learning. Do not apply solder to the iron and then try to blob the solder on to the wire - it never works because the solder dries out as the flux evaporates, and then the resulting joint can become brittle and prone to breaking (aka Dry Joint). Once cool, fit a spade connector sheath over the wire and then crimp the connector to the wire as shown in the diagram The crimping makes a mechanically sound connection, but this is not enough. Returning to the soldering iron, you then need to apply heat to solder the wire to the connector to ensure an enduring connection, just like they do at the factory. 2. Bullet connectors Bullet connectors are needed where (A) two separate lengths of wire are to be joined together or (B) where an extra wire is to be added to a main feed. Many bullet connectors can be crimped on as well as soldered to enhance the quality of their connection, but the stock items used by BL tend to be a bit more tricky and can only be soldered - so you must ensure that the soldered connection is not dry! Strip back 3/8 of cable and solder the strands. Insert in the end of the bullet - it may help to kink the strands slightly to keep the bullet in place - and then re-apply the soldering iron to the top of the bullet. Allow it to heat up and then apply the solder through the hole at the top of the bullet so that it can run inside, attaching the cable to the wall of the connector. The advantage of these connectors is that, if corroded, the connector block can be thrown away and a new one fitted without having to do any more soldering. Also, they can provide multiple outlets for power, but watch out for that current overload on the original feed wire! The disadvantage is that the connector is a mechanical fit and prone to electrical failure when corroded, which is why many cars start going wrong after five years use! An Extra Fuse Box If you are accessory mad, the use of a fuse box with a direct link to the solenoid may provide a safe, efficient answer, rather than connecting countless new wires onto an overburdened wire feed. Again, make sure that the wire, from the feed to the box has sufficient capacity to deal with any load place upon it (an in-line fuse may further protect the entire system). Is it worth the effort you might ask? Yes! A clean job is a good job! 1. If its soldered, then the connections will be better, stopping niggling electrical failures and dangerous burn-outs; the connectors are cheaper too. 2. The proper connectors often allow easier access for repair of equipment. 3. Stops wires from sparking and equipment lasts longer. 4. It looks better, too! Finally, here are some good tricks to play on people wielding a soldering iron on their car. 1. Blow up a paper bag and stand behind them. Burst the bag whenever you see them cutting a wire or poking at something electrical with a screwdriver. 2. Try swapping solder for tinned copper wire. Its better than watching paint dry. (The other version involves merely turning off the soldering iron!) 3. Offer to hold wires while they solder than swap one wire for a cut off length of about 4 long and then wait for sparks to fly when they realize they have just connected a wire that goes nowhere. Grahame Bristow Moss Europe Staff
1-800-667-7872
54
In this article we will examine yet another alternative ignition system for your British sports car, the Mallory Dual-Point Distributor. What makes the Mallory unique among point type ignitions, is, as the name implies, it has two separate sets of points to do the work of one. What are the advantages to using two sets of points? In the Mallory distributor, one set of points opens the primary circuit and the other closes it, giving a longer period of dwell (the period of time that the points are closed, expressed in degrees). The dwell period is the time when the secondary windings in the ignition coil charge the magnetic field up for another high voltage blast when the points open (20,000-40,000 volts!). It can generally be said that the longer the period of dwell, the higher voltage the spark. On most four cylinder engines, the dwell period is about 60, but the Mallory Dual-Point Distributor has a dwell period of 72, so even if you choose to use your stock coil, you will still have a hotter spark, as the coil has more time to charge itself up than with a conventional distributor. This is accomplished in the Mallory unit by the following process. In the four cylinder distributor the point cam has eight lobes, and as it rotates, it opens the primary set of points completely, triggering the coil. Then the lobe rotates another 8 and opens the secondary set of points. Shortly after the secondary set has begun to open, the primary set closes, and the ignition coil starts charging even though the secondary set is still open. After the secondary set has closed the process starts again for the next cylinder. Why not just crank open the points for more dwell in your stock distributor? You could, but this would have an adverse effect on the ignition timing and the points would wear in short order, as they are designed to work at a specified gap, all of which would result in a loss of performance and economy. Another feature of the Mallory Dual-Point Distributor is the fact that it has a full centripetal advance unit, rather than the part-centripetal, part-vacuum advance system used on the stock Lucas distributors. This feature may make it illegal for use on pollution-controlled vehicles (check your local and state laws before using this unit on the street) but makes it perfect for use with high performance engines equipped with sidedraft carburetors that often lack a vacuum port for use with a stock distributor. The Mallory unit is also easily adjustable for total amount of ignition advance, and comes preset at 28 allowing the serious enthusiast the ultimate in tune-ability. The Mallory Dual-Point is supplied without a drivedog or gear, which must be transferred from the old distributor. Mallory has been making high performance ignition systems since 1932, was even a popular modification to MG TCs when they were new! Today there is a Mallory Dual-Point to fit most British cars, so if youre looking for the ultimate in high performance ignition systems, look no further than the Mallory Dual-Point distributor. Ben Travato Santa Barbara, CA
Tech Tips
Adjusting Your MGA Choke
Mixture adjustment and synchronisation of SUs seem to be widely understood. Of equal importance is the adjustment of the choke mechanism. If set too rich, the choke will fill the cylinders with raw fuel and dilute the engine oil causing premature bearing, piston ring and cylinder wear. If set too lean, the car starts hard, which drains the battery and overheats the owner. Of first consideration is the fit of the clevis pins in the choke levers. If these holds are worn larger than the pins, the chokes will not operate through their entire range. New levers and clevis pins are the cure for this problem. Once the new parts are fitted, adjust the slack out of the choke linkage at the interconnector link. Slacken the top and bottom nut so the linkage is relaxed, then tighten the bottom nut so that just a bit of pressure is brought to bear on the lever. Do not overcompensate, as this will pre-load the chokes and cause over-rich mixtures. Once set to your satisfaction, run the top nut down on the fitting to lock the adjustment. You may want to use an extra nut on the bottom as a lock nut. Now, hook up the choke cable. Give it a turn to the right to help the cable lock work, and dont get the cable too tight; leave a little slack. The choke cam may be adjusted to suit weather conditions by moving the link rod to the appropriate hole. #1 opens the butterfly a small amount slowly, #3 opens it a large amount quickly. #3 is intended for colder weather, #1 for warmer climes. Yours may be set at #2 where the majority were set to begin with. If so, you may want to leave it alone, as the #2 setting seems to work in just about any climate. The choke adjusting screws should be set last of all, and should be backed off completely when setting the idle, and synchronizing the carburetors. Set the screws equally so they are just shy of the cam, about 1/32. Smear a dab of light grease on the cam face. If the chokes and idle screws do not hold their settings, new tension springs may be in order.
Balancing SU Carburetors
Damp Starting Problems
If your car is still slow starting, or wont start in wet/damp weather, and you have checked and convinced yourself that your battery is strong, the grounds and hot connections are all good, timing, plugs, and points are all up to specs, it is now time to go to the next step. You should seriously consider replacing your old, probably weak and/or worn out stock 25k coil with a new, high voltage 35k or 40k volt coil. They are available at reasonable prices. If you are a purist, rest assured that the Lucas Sports Coil (Moss #143-200), is still available, although not originally fitted at the factories. Most likely if all the other electrical stuff is working well, you will solve your wet/damp starting problems with a high voltage coil. Try it, and if you are like me, you will wonder why you or Lucas didnt do it 20 years ago. Tom KBurg Salem, NJ
We know that the balancing of SU carburetors requires the removal and replacement of the anchoring nuts and bolts, and washers for the air cleaners. We also know the contortions required to replace the washers and nuts up under the carbs (as well as the kneeling, searching and cursing when we drop them...twice!). I think the following might simplify the problem. The holes in the carb flanges that the 1/4 (.250) air cleaner anchoring bolts go through are .257 plus (at least the ones for H carbs) and this just happens to be the recommended hole size to install 5/16 x 18 t.p.i. helicoils. Run the 5/16 x 18 t.p.i. tap in a helicoil kit into these holes with the wing nut tool. The insert may be a little long for the thickness of the flange but screwing a 1/4 x 18 tpi bolt through will break off the little tang and set them. Now the removal and replacement of the air cleaners is from the outside, and washers and nuts under the carburetor are not required. This method can also be used on other British cars with the same set-up. Donald LaTrobe Huntington Beach, CA
SU Carb Dashpot Oil
The purpose of the SU damper is to retard the rapid upward movement of the piston on the rapid throttle opening associated with acceleration. This delay in piston movement causes a momentary decrease in pressure at the throat, thus achieving a momentary increase in richness much the same as with an accelerator pump. The weight of the oil in the damper determines the amount of dampening. A lot of race mechanics use automatic transmission fluid for some misguided reason obscure to me. I think it is too Fluid Level light for normal use. SU publications recommend 20 weight, which I would follow. (Moss sells the correct SU dashpot oil, under #220-225 for a 125ml. bottle -Ed.) Do not overfill the damper. The proper procedure is to fill below the top of the hollow piston rod, not below the top of the chamber neck. Overfilling just spills over into the suction chamber and makes a mess. One easy check is to remove the damper and then re-insert it. If you feel resistance before you reach the threads on the cap, youve put in enough oil. Jim Taylor Kansas City
55
MGA
Tech Tips
Tire Rotation
Like many others, I grew up with a strong and unwavering belief in the commandment: Thou shalt not cross-rotate radial tires, nor cause reversal of their directional rotation. A friend of mine even carried two used spare tires (couldnt afford new ones in those days) in his Fiat - one which had been run on the left side of the car, and one on the right. He wasnt going to risk having a tire fly apart because he broke the rules! Thus, my initial reaction to Mr. Krafts letter was disbelief, followed by curiosity. Do $500 truck and bus tires live by different rules than our relatively tiny and inexpensive sports car tires? Have two generations of drivers spent their automotive lives believing in tire fables? Coker Tire Co., Firestone, The Kelly-Springfield Tire Co., and Pirelli Armstrong Tire Corp. responded to my plea for authoritative commentary with a unanimous Its OK to cross-rotate radial tires, with the exception of Temporary Use Only spares, and tires with uni-directional tread patterns. Firestone added the recommendation that the vehicle manufacturers Four Wheel Rear & Four Wheel instructions be followed, even Drive Vehicles Drive Vehicles though their tires can be cross-rotated. Our thanks to Front Front these companies for all the information they sent, and special thanks to Mr. Jim Hildebrand of Coker Tire Co. who added: I understand that the original theory (common to the late 60s) was that, particularly on the drive tires, All Vehicles All Vehicles the torque would cause the radial side wall cords to slant, Front Front and if rolling direction was changed that a balance problem might exist. Further research and testing disproved this theory. The basis being that a slanting of the side wall cords did not actually take place. Approved Rotation Patterns (extracted from information supplied by Pirelli Armstrong) The purpose of regularly rotating tires is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on a vehicle. Before rotating tires, individual owners manuals should always be consulted for rotation recommendations for specific vehicles. If no rotation period is specified, tires should be rotated every 6000 to 8000 miles or at any sign of uneven wear. The first rotation is most important. If the tires show uneven wear, ask the service person to check for and correct any misalignment, imbalance, or other mechanical problem before rotation. Car & Light Truck Tire Rotation Patterns Do not include a temporary use only spare tire in any of these rotation patterns. If the vehicle owner has a regular tire as a spare and wishes to include it in the tire rotation process, the proper procedure is as follows: Use one of the four tire rotation patterns, but insert the spare in the right rear position, and place the tire which would have gone to the right rear position in the trunk as the new spare. When tires are rotated, inflation pressures must be adjusted in accordance with the vehicle manufacturers recommendations. Eric Wilhelm Moss Motors Staff
Spring Brake Tune-Up
Freshly tuned carburetors, proper running adjustments, an oil and filter change; these are just the start of a successful driving season. Making sure that your car will stop is probably the most important part of the spring maintenance routine. This year, why not give your car a thorough brake safety check? Excessive pedal travel and/or excessive handbrake movement indicates an overdue adjustment or the need for new pads or shoes. Sticky wheel cylinder pistons or incorrect master cylinder push rod adjustment will result in a dead feeling pedal. Air in the system is the most common cause of spongy pedal. These are the most common of storage-related brake problems. An obvious and serious brake problem is indicated by the abnormal loss of fluid once the car is put in service. Do not just keep on filling the reservoir; clean and tighten the brake fluid connections. Look for fluid seeping out of the cylinder seals. Pay special attention to the master cylinder. If wheel cylinders leak into the brake assembly, the fluid quickly ruins the shoes. Leaky rear oil seals are also a prime source of brake contamination. Often, both leaky wheel cylinders and oil seals rob your stopping safety. Determine the culprit and correct the problem. Shoes that have been soaked with brake fluid and oil may sometimes be reclaimed with a proprietary brake cleaner, but it is usually necessary to replace them, as rear axle oil will soften the friction material, greatly reducing its efficiency and safety. As brake fluid is susceptible to water contamination, it is essential to bleed the brake system once a year. Worn seals will allow air to enter the system without a sign of fluid leak. The need for repeated bleedings is a sure indicator of this fault. Absolute cleanliness is essential when servicing brake systems. Be sure that the master cylinder top is clean before it is opened, so no dirt or grit enters the system. Small rubber caps (Moss 031-300) are available to cover bleed screws, and are an inexpensive and convenient way to keep dirt out of the bleeders. Wash the backplates and any other gritty areas before anything is disassembled for service. Remove the drums and clean the parts with brake cleaner or soap and hot water. Do not use an air blast to clean brake assemblies. The asbestos particles are a proven carcinogen. Do not handle the clean parts with dirty hands. Carefully inspect the cylinder bores. Units having rust pitting, score marks, and rings left by corrosion must be replaced. Internal parts must also be in good order. Disc brake pistons that are rusted or corroded will not hold a seal, nor will plungers and pistons that are scored or worn on one side. Examine the rubber hydraulic hoses. The connections to the metal piping are commonly covered in grease. This area should be kept clean so any indication of cracking or swelling can be observed. An uncommon problem with rubber hydraulic hoses occurs when the inside of the hose swells and cuts off the fluid flow.
1. A damp backing plate or dripping between drum and backing plate indicates trouble.
3. The general method is to turn the adjusters clockwise until the shoe comes up against the drum, clicking back until the wheel turns free.
No problem is apparent on the outside. If you are bleeding the system and no air or fluid passes from the cylinder in question, consider removing the rubber hose for close 2. Check cylinder seals for fluid leaks, oil inspection. seals for gear oil seepage. It is preferable to visually inspect front drum brake systems where two cylinders are used. Back off the adjusters to permit the removal of the drum. Get a helper to push the pedal gently. Observe the action of the cylinders pistons - only one cylinder may be working, while the other may be stuck. That will stop the wheel, but not very well. If the cylinder does not retract fully when pressure is released you can see right away that it will have to be rebuilt. Tech Tip: Stuck pistons can be forced from cylinders by air pressure. Clean the cylinder; remove corrosion in the exposed bore. Use an air nozzle to force air into the cylinder, covering the open end with a rag to prevent damage from flying pistons. R.B. Hart Moss Motors Staff

56
1-800-667-7872
About Wire Wheels
One of the less popular aspects of wire wheels is that they tend to go out-of tune and need occasional straightening (or truing). This is caused by the spokes stretching and by the spoke holes wearing, both of which result in a change in spoke tension. This causes the rim to run out-ofround. Consider that the weight of the car is suspended on the few spokes that are uppermost in each wheel and that they are constantly moving into and out of this weight-bearing position when the car is moving. Add side loads from cornering and you can understand the stresses that cause the spokes to stretch and move around. A wheel which is tuned to run true may be kept this way by a monthly checking of spoke tension. Run a pencil around the spokes and note whether any make a sound which is markedly lower in pitch than the others. Tighten these flat ones with a Moss spoke wrench (#385-800) and you will maintain the wheel in a nice, round condition. Old Wheels If your wheels have not been trued for some time, simply tightening the flat spokes will not necessarily make them run true. You might just tighten them permanently into their buckled condition! An old wheel should be properly trued to eliminate radial and lateral run out before being put on the monthly maintenance program. New Wheels When the wheels are assembled at the factory, they are laced so as to be within factory tolerance for radial and lateral run out. Since the hubs, rims, and spokes are new, this tolerance can be achieved without the spokes necessarily being tensioned evenly! Result? When a new wheel is subjected to a load, it may go slightly out of round. Even when the spoke tension is correct, some settling will occur during the first couple of hundred miles, as the spokes and nipples bed into their seats. A good practice with new wheels, therefore, is: A) Check spoke tension before mounting new tires. Tighten any loose spokes, check for excessive run out and remedy by tightening appropriate spokes. B) Drive gently on new wheels at first, allowing them to settle in without severe stress. C) Re-check spoke tension and run out after new wheels have been used for a couple of hundred miles or so. Following this procedure, and remembering to clean and re-grease the hub splines every 4-6 months, will give you years of trouble-free life from your wire wheels. Lawrie Alexander Moss Motors Staff
Tech Tips
Stuck Wheels
I was no stranger to English cars. I had pleasant early associations with the unique aroma of Wilton wool carpet, mixed with Connolly hides and top-down summer days spent in an older brothers Jaguar. Those childhood memories were, as much as anything else, responsible for my buying a Rover 2000 some years later. I exorcised the ghost of Henry Lucas periodically from that Rover for years. It might have been the memory of quality enamel, faultless chrome, or picnic baskets that made me recall the best qualities of those cars and forget their weaknesses, but I now find myself in a well-cared-for MGB. A feature new to me, and one I gave little thought to before buying the car, were the wire wheels. Then I read in the owners manual that the splined of wire wheels should be greased periodically to prevent binding at the worst possible time: while away from home, and possibly in foul weather. Removal of the first three wheels took a matter of minutes. A wire brush applied to the splines, careful wiping, and application of a thin coat of grease proved a simple, almost pleasant job. I was idly imagining having a flat in traffic and replacing it with the spare in next to no time. Then I tried to remove the fourth wheel. What I thought was a little snug turned out to be frozen tight. Pry bars, then wrecking bars proved no match. Penetrating oil applied through tubes to reach behind made no difference. Hammering with increasing intensity produced only a ringing in the ears. The most amazing aspect of the whole experience was the lack of good advice available. I called numerous mechanics and wheel/tire specialists, only to hear that they had no special tools or equipment to solve this problem. A kind of oneupmanship emerged in the story telling of normally helpful mechanics. I heard about the guy who replaced the whole rear end, the guy who changed the tire right on the car, and the guy who put the car in a broadslide and still couldnt get the wheel off! Finally I told my tale of woe to an industrial mechanic. He was more at ease with heavy machinery than light sports cars, but his answer came without hesitation. Handing me a large gear puller, he said, Heat the wheel. I told him it would ruin the paint and he assured me that was the least of my problems! You can always get it painted, but if you deform it, youve ruined it, he told me. Itll come off hard all the way, he predicted but let the heat do the work for you. The axle will act as a heat sink, keeping the spline cool as the wheel expands. I first confirmed that the penetrating oil I had used was not flammable. Then I carefully positioned the three arms of the gear puller between the spokes. It might be necessary to disassemble the gear puller to avoid bending the spokes; this is a simple matter. Considerable pressure can then be applied very evenly, without distorting the rim, but probably still not enough to loosen the wheel. The torch is the charm. Concentrate heat between the outer spokes, while turning the wheel slowly. I did this for what seemed like far too long a time and was about to give up when a sound very much like a twenty-two caliber rifle scared me to death. I jumped, yelled, and nearly dropped the torch. Even then there was no obvious evidence anything had come free. The only noticeable change was that the gear puller was not quite as tight as before. I gave it a turn or two and began heating again. A minute or two later, Pop, another sixteenth of an inch! That was the way it went all the way off. (To save all this trouble, the owners manual warning to remove the wheels and grease the splines regularly should not be taken lightly. ) Ed. Note: Your gear puller will have to have relatively fine jaws to fit behind the wheel hub. A harness can be made by securing a chain around the hub and attaching the gear puller to the chain. Tom Strauss Lancaster, PA
Wire Wheel Care
The second most frequently asked question about our cars must be how do I take care of my wire wheels? Should the car be off the ground to hammer the knock-off, or should the wheel be on the ground? Well, thats two questions, but the problem remains...Whether you call it a knock-off, a knock-on, a nut or a locknut, BMC felt inclined to issue a Technical Service Bulletin on the matter. In short, you should always hammer the nuts on or off with the wheel off the ground and free to rotate. While they dont say so, many people believe this will decrease the force transmitted into the spokes from each blow. If the wheel is not free to turn, then the spokes take the full brunt of each hammer blow. The rest of the information is definitive! If you do as BMC says, your wheels should last much longer than if you dont. How many of you have had to hacksaw off a wire wheel, as it had become rusted to the hub? A few of you have. So inspect, grease, and check your wheels at least once a year, preferably before the rainy season. As an added precaution, why not use an anti-seize lubricant that comes in a large can with a brush in the lid. One can should last a lifetime and isnt all that expensive at a local auto parts store. One final word, dont forget to use RTV silicone inside the wheel hub on top of the spoke heads - to seal out water and prevent grease or anti-seize lubricant from being spun out onto your spokes and wheels. Several of us have used this technique for years and it works great! What can you do if either the wheel hub or the center of the wire wheel is too worn? It costs at least $25 a wheel to dip (removes rust and paint), true (tighten each spoke uniformly, replacing several that wont turn), and repaint (who wants rusty wheels?). By getting new wheels, you might get by with a worn hub a bit longer. A somewhat temporary trick is to use a couple of pieces of shim stock from .001 to .003 inches thick, spaced around the hub to tighten up the splines. It is even possible to dress up the splines with a small file. But, these fixes just prolong the inevitable; sooner or later the rear hubs will have to be replaced if they have been run with loose wheels. It makes good sense to take care of your wheels and hubs. If you dont, you will cripple your car... As a postscript, an aluminum can will do in a pinch to get you home if you spin a wheel. Use it for shim stock and the contents to soothe your pending expenditure. Ron Phillips La Habra Heights, CA
Dissolving Hardened Wire Wheel Grease
Because servicing them is a dirty job, wire wheels are perhaps the most neglected components on a British car. Many times Ive bought or worked on a car and found it nearly impossible to remove one of the wheels! This is likely due to very hard, dried-up grease which essentially freezes the wheel on. Ive heard about many techniques for removing stuck wheels with torches and chisels, and even trying to drive around without the knock-offs installed to loosen the the wheel. Before resorting to such drastic measures, try using a can of carburetor cleaner to dissolve dried up grease. Jack the car up, remove the knockoffs and spray well up into the cavity between the wheel hub and the splined extension, The carb cleaner will dissolve hardened grease in short order. Be sure to place a pan or tray under the wheel to catch the dissolved grease and carb cleaner. Let the carb cleaner soak in for a few minutes and repeat the process while wiggling the wheel around to help break up hardened grease. Unless the splines have become jammed together on the extension, this will allow you to remove the wheel easily.

57
MGA
Tech Tips
Installing Rust Repair Panels
Before repairing a rusted area on a car, a battle plan must be carefully worked out. If there is any body filler or damage nearby, consider replacing more than just the rusted area. If adjoining panels are also rusted, a logical sequence of operations must be planned. Above all, have your Moss repair panels in hand before cutting rusted/damaged areas out of your car. This not only makes planning the job easier, but it lets you see exactly how the repair panel will fit. Its also a good way to prevent cutting out an area larger than the repair panel, a potentially costly mistake. Careful measurements and marking are essential. Plan with care. Start from the inside out. Floors and sills (always before removing the body from the frame if the car has a separate frame) are followed by inner fender and door pillars, after which come rocker panels and then fender patches. This is, of course, a very general outline. Equipment needed to produce professional quality repairs is generally beyond the tool inventory of the average enthusiasts garage, but it is often cheaper to purchase needed tools and equipment than to take the car to a body shop, especially if only skin repairs are required. The most expensive item required for this is most likely a M.I.G. welder or oxy-acetylene torch set-up to do the actual welding. (If only non-stressed areas are to be repaired, pop-riveting is usually adequate.) A few years back, an inexpensive M.I.G. welder cost just under $1,000. Recently there have been tabletop models available starting under $300, which puts these invaluable devices within the reach of many. For cutting the rust out of your car, I have found a hand-held 4 grinder with a cut-off disc to be quick, clean, and accurate. These have the added advantages of producing virtually no distortion in the metal, and can be used with grinding discs for grinding welds. Chisels, hand shears, and cutting torches should not be used on most external panels, as they produce too much distortion in the surrounding metal. Cutting torches are great for rough or preliminary work. Nibblers may be used, but are generally slow and leave a slightly ragged edge. They are good for cutting small radius curves, however. Spot-welded panels such as rocker panels can usually be removed by carefully drilling the spot welds with a drill of slightly larger diameter then the welds. If the welds are drilled out through the entire assembly, the new panel may be plug welded from the back of the holes. If done carefully, appearance of the original spot-welds can be approximated. In any case, once the spot welds are drilled, the old panel may be separated from the piece it was welded to with a thin sharp chisel and vise-grips. Rocker panels are easy to remove if the main part is cut away from the welded flanges, and the flanges removed separately. Repair panels may be mated to the cuts made in the car by overlapping or with buttjoints. Overlaps are easily made, and may be welded or pop-riveted, but they leave a grossly uneven surface unless the edges of the hole are joggled, so that the surface of the patch and any rivet beads are slightly below the surface of the main panel. The time and effort to do this properly makes this method more difficult than butt-welding. Butt-welding is the joining of two pieces by their edges, and demands careful matching of the edges. Whichever method is used depends on equipment available and what sort of panel is being installed. Floorboards and trunk pans can be installed with lapped edges, while exterior patch panels should be butt-joined if a minimum of body filler and finishing is to be used. Plan for drainage - there was a reason the car rusted where it did. Figure out why, and add inconspicuous improvements such as extra drain holes where required. To install a panel, mark on the body of the car approximately where you think the edge of the repair panel will be. Remove all of the original pieces to be replaced except for an inch or so along where the main joint or weld will be. It should then be possible to scribe an accurate line on the body for the final cut where the two panels will join. Cut this carefully with as little distortion and with as smooth an edge as possible. Hold the repair panel in place, and note any areas which need attention. These could be unfair mating flanges, ragged surfaces (remnants of old welds, barbs left from rough chisel work, or slag from cutting with a torch), or poorly mating edges. Look for imperfections in the repair panel itself. Trim, grind, hammer (gently) or do whatever is required for a perfect fit all over. With the repair panel held or lightly clamped in place, place a small tack weld at the center of the major joint. In the case of a lower fender repair panel, especially when the weld will not be covered by trim and the joint is straight, allow the contraction of this tack to pull the bottom of the panel away from the car slightly - when later tack is made and the bottom of the panel pushed into place, the joint will (usually) be slightly below the correct surface. The idea is to have the finished (ground-off) weld slightly low, so a light coat of body putty or lead is all that is needed to bring the repaired area to smooth perfection. With the first tack in place, wiggle the panel around a bit for perfect alignment, and place more tacks at 2-3 inch intervals from the center outwards in both directions, one on one side of center, the next on the other side, and so on. By leaving a small gap between the two pieces to be butt-welded (about 1/32 is fine), a small thin screwdriver or other object may be used as a lever to pry the two pieces as required to perfectly align the two surfaces at each tack. With the cosmetic joint(s) well tacked, weld the flanges and other edges of the panel, being careful not to allow enough heat to build up to cause any distortion. The best way to do this is by skip-welding, in which short welds are made at long intervals around the work until it is finished. Now go back and put a tack weld between each of the previous ones on the cosmetic or exposed joint, aligning the surfaces as before. Do it again - a tack between the ones just made and the original ones. If the resulting gaps are more than about 1/2 long, do it again. With a hand grinder, carefully grind off the tops of all these little tack welds.
After aligning the surfaces as before, use the skip-welding procedure mentioned earlier, to carefully weld in the gaps, again being careful not to cause adverse heat distortion. Grind off the excess weld carefully, without hitting the body panels. If you find the weld to be in a slight depression, congratulations! If the ground weld is still slightly raised, do not try to grind it and the edges of the now joined panels flat - you will make the metal too thin, and cause the weld to crack. Careful hammer work or heat shrinking is the only cure - consult an experienced body man and/or a good book on bodywork. Common questions about repair panels are: (1) Why not braze them?, (2) Why not sell galvanized panels?, and (3) Why arent all the repair panels supplied in primer? Brazing can be used, but causes paint adhesion problems unless proper preparation and primers are used. Galvanized panels should not be used, as the fumes from welding these are highly toxic. Furthermore, as the zinc is burned off at the welds, protection is lost where it is most needed. All body panels should be stripped to the bare metal before finishing, and properly prepared for paint. It is easier to work with an oil-covered or even slightly rusty panel than one already covered with primer that must be removed, as it must be thoroughly cleaned anyway. The most feared four letter word in a British sports car owners vocabulary must be rust. I once saw a TR250 collapse in the middle when lifted by a tow truck; when set back on all fours, the center portion of the frame was resting on the pavement. Rust, caused by road salt and neglect, was responsible. Even in areas where road salt is not used, rusting agents may be present which literally eat holes in automobiles. Dilute sulfuric acid is present in many areas in the highly publicized form of acid rain. Some crop spraying chemicals are also active rusting agents, while salt spray in coastal areas often turns cars into dangerous hulks of rusty steel lace. Once the rusting process has begun (often by the time the car reaches the dealer), it is too late for protection remedial action must be taken immediately to remove existing rust, no matter how seemingly insignificant. The only way to remove rust which hasnt yet eaten entirely through its host panel is to sand down to clean metal, treat the sanded area with a rust remover (most proprietary solutions containing phosphoric acid work well), wash thoroughly to remove all traces of the rust remover, prime and paint. Its a lot of work, even for a relatively small area. If rust is forming between two pieces of metal spot-welded together, or otherwise lapped over each other, acid treatment is not recommended, as it cant be adequately neutralized. What can be done to de-rust a sealed, boxed-in area? Unless you can get to all rustcontaminated surfaces and de-rust them, theres not much that can be done. Generally, the compounds advertised as rust neutralizers and such, have some rust retardant value, but they dont seem to effect permanent cures. Body cancer is one of the least pleasing pseudonyms of automotive rust, but one of the most accurate. Once rust has eaten through a panel, even in pin-holes, the only cure is to cut out the affected part and weld in a new piece. This can be more trouble and certainly more expensive than prevention or immediate first aid when rust is first noticed, but it is the only way to cure the problem. Body-putty, lead, pop-riveted patches and other commonly used repair methods only hide the problem, they do not cure it. Rust has an even more dangerous cousin, the electrolytic corrosion of aluminum panels where they join steel, as on Big Healeys. In this case, the aluminum and steel, in the presence of moisture, act as an electric battery, especially when the moisture is salt-laden and the temperature is warm. When this occurs, the aluminum crumbles and turns into white powder, leaving the steel rusty, but usually sound. What makes this form of body rot worse than rust is that it is much more difficult to perform cut and weld repairs on aluminum than on steel. Prevention of corrosion is much easier than repair. When washing your car, wash it thoroughly underneath as well. Do whatever you can to dry it - blow with compressed air, mop it dry, or open doors, trunk and hood to allow water to evaporate. Letting it sit out in the hot sun will dry it quickly enough. Above all, do not put a wet car in a heated garage; heat, combined with high humidity is what rust thrives on. Check the car thoroughly underneath for raw or rusty metal areas. Clean and protect them with paint, undercoating, or even grease. Have you ever noticed that the bottoms of your front floors never seem to get rusty, the oil from engine leaks protects them. (This wont prevent floors from rusting from the inside, though.) Do whatever you can to prevent rust from starting. Most commercial undercoatings work very well when properly applied. Checking a car for rust and finding all the rust is not as easy as it sounds. For example, by the time rust bubbles appear under the point at the lower front of MGB rear fenders, it s a good bet that at least the rear portion of the rocker panel (covered by the fender) and the vertical inner sill panel are in much worse condition. The only way to find this dangerous structural rust is to explore. Remove the outer rusted fender section, probe deeply and try not to be horrified by what is found. On most cars, removal of the front bulkhead sealer plates will show if there is any rust inside the lower rear of the front fenders. This is one of rusts favorite spots. While exploring, the traditional ice pick method works, but I prefer to tap suspect areas with a body pick hammer which has the pick ground to a hemisphere about l/8 in diameter. Light tapping with this wont damage sound bodywork, but it will, by sound and feel, if not by penetration, find all rust damaged areas which are not usually apparent. So your cars like mine, well past the prevention stage, and ready for major surgery. Moss helps hundreds of us each year by supplying not only complete fenders, rocker panels, and floor boards, but also repair panels which are designed to replace those areas of your car which are prone to rusting. Check the Moss catalog for the car of your choice and you will likely be surprised by the number of such body repair pieces available. Eric Wilhelm Moss Motors Staff
The Basics of Rust Repair
1-800-667-7872
58

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MGA Parts Catalogue

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MGA 1500 - 1600 & MKII

RESTORATION PARTS & ACCESSORIES EFFECTIVE 4/10/00 MGA-21

MGA Restoration Parts Catalog

MANIFOLDS & EXHAUST

COOLING SYSTEM ENGINE CONTROL FUEL SYSTEM

CLUTCH GEARBOX FRONT SUSPENSION

STEERING REAR AXLE REAR SUSPENSION PROPSHAFT ROAD WHEELS BRAKES

CHASSIS BODY PANELS & FITTINGS

FASCIA PANEL TWIN CAM TRIM

MGA Parts Catalog

LOCAL & OVERSEAS: 805-681-3400 FAX: 805-692-2525 www.mossmotors.com

BRITISH MOTOR HERITAGE APPROVED

MOSS MOTORS, LTD. TOLL-FREE ORDERS

MGA Engine Serial Number Data

1st Letter (Car Type) H-MGA J-MG 1 1/4 litre K-Magnette

Chassis Numbers-1600-1600 MKII

5th Prefix* (Model Series) 2-1600 MKII (None for 1600)

Location of Serial Numbers

MOSS MOTORS, LTD. TOLL-FREE ORDERS

Oil Filter Components

126 460-840 127 324-800 127a 324-800 128 460-820

$6.75 $0.55 $0.55 NA $22.95

1500 to (e)GB11297 from 1500 (e)GB11298 thru 1622 MKII

129 324-800 132 * 133 * 134 *

460-900 460-850 435-350 435-355

LOCAL & OVERSEAS: 805-681-3400 FAX: 805-692-2525 www.mossmotors.com

1500 (8.3:1 CR)

1600 (8.3:1 CR)

1622 (8.3:1 CR)

1500 (9:1 CR)

1500 - 1600 1622 1500 - 1600 1622

1600 (9:1 CR)

1500 - 1600 1622

all except Twin Cam

MOSS MOTORS, LTD. TOLL-FREE ORDERS

460-620 NA 460-720 $149.95 460-725 $1.05 NA

426-050* $34.95 426-060* $39.95 426-070* $33.95

1500 1600 1622

1500 (early pump) later 1500 to MKII

LOCAL & OVERSEAS: 805-681-3400 FAX: 805-692-2525 www.mossmotors.com

460-760 460-005 460-520 460-550 460-570 460-710

0 Cylinder Head Tech

Cylinder Head Inspection

Valve Guide Installation

Installing the Cylinder Head

MOSS MOTORS, LTD. TOLL-FREE ORDERS

1500 - 1600 MKII (1622) 1500 - 1600

423-240 423-245 423-250 423-255

$2.45 $5.25 $2.45 $5.25

LOCAL & OVERSEAS: 805-681-3400 FAX: 805-692-2525 www.mossmotors.com

MOSS MOTORS, LTD. TOLL-FREE ORDERS

Operating the Choke

single bearing pump only 1 from (e)GB39365 1 1 1 1 4 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 3

hot climates/summer standard cold climates/winter

LOCAL & OVERSEAS: 805-681-3400 FAX: 805-692-2525 www.mossmotors.com

Twin Cam carburetors are shown on pages 16-17.

(fit to worn bodies)

late type alternative to #75 - 76

1600 & 1622

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(see note under illus. #31)

SU Carburetor Choke Adjustment

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Carburetors - Twin Cam