Buying Cabinet-Quality Lumber

Share

Print Comments (0)

The wood used for furniture and other fine projects differs in many ways from lumberyard 2x4s. The first thing to realize about cabinet-quality lumber is that the rules you probably know about ordering dimension lumber (the type you use for carpentry work) don't apply. Sizing, grading, ordering -- they're all different. Also keep in mind that except for a few white pines, redwood, and cedar, most of the time you'll be working with hardwoods. Understanding Moisture Content All cabinet-grade lumber begins as a "green" board that's been mill-sawed from a freshly felled tree. The moisture content of a green board will be 28 percent or greater, making it unsuitable for woodworking because all wood shrinks, warps, and splits as it dries. Air-drying reduces the moisture content naturally -- workers stack the slabs in such a way that air circulates between the separated layers of boards. Air-drying lowers the moisture level to between 12 and 17 percent. (This is acceptable for outdoor construction, but don't make any interior projects using air-dried material.)

Kiln-drying takes over where air-drying leaves off. Large oven-like kilns with carefully controlled temperatures reduce the moisture content to between 6 and 9 percent, the ideal range for interior projects. With few exceptions, retail hardwood dealers sell only kiln-dried lumber. It's stored and sold indoors under a roof where the elements won't affect it. When you purchase kiln-dried lumber, store it indoors lying flat on dry sticks of scrap or hardboard. Never lay it directly on concrete because it will absorb excess moisture. How Hardwood Lumber Is Sized Unlike dimension lumber, which is milled to industryestablished nominal thicknesses, widths, and lengths, most cabinet-quality stock comes in random widths and lengths to keep waste to an absolute minimum. In addition, because all furniture and other woodworking projects have different dimensions, there's no need for dimensioned stock. Thickness, though, has been standardized, and is expressed in different ways, such as 4/4 (1"), 5/4 (1 1/4"), 6/4 (1 1/2"), and so on. Don't be confused by all this; just remember that the quarter designation and the nominal thickness are the same animal. When you order cabinet-quality lumber, you'll receive a board as long as or longer than and as wide as or wider than the item ordered. The thickness (if surfaced) will be close to that listed in the chart. When you purchase hardwood lumber, you buy it by the board foot. Even if the dealer has the boards already priced, he arrived at those prices by first figuring the number of board feet each contained. A board foot, simply, equals 144 cubic inches of wood. Think of it as a piece 1 inch thick and 12 inches square. Because board footage always is calculated in quarters of an inch thickness, starting at no less than 1 inch (even if you order less than 1 inch, you'll pay for the 1-inch thickness), a 5/4 board 6 inches wide and 72 inches long would be figured like this: 1.25 (thickness) x 6 (width) x 72 (length) = 540. Divide 540 by 144 to determine the number of board feet in the stock. If the board length is stated in feet rather than inches, use the same method but divide your total by 12 instead of 144. How Cabinet-Quality Lumber Is Graded Unlike dimension lumber, which manufacturers grade according to its use in construction as full width and length members, hardwood is graded according to the expected number of clear face cuts a board will yield. And, because most hardwood is expected to be made into furniture, these cuts will be from 2 to 7 feet long. For more information on the hardwood grading system, which was developed by the National Hardwood Lumber Association, see the chart below. This same chart also discusses the grading system for white pine, which was formulated by the Western Wood Products Association. In cabinet lumber there are great differences in quality, just as there are in construction lumber, so use the chart as a guide.

Remember, too, that in building a large project, such as a table or desk top, you'll generally need the higher grades of lumber because they have fewer defects and are available in greater widths and lengths than lower-grade boards of the same species. Many retail hardwood dealers carry only the highest grades possible to avoid customer complaints and discount requests. Estimating Your Needs Before you purchase any lumber for a project, draw or refer to a published cutting diagram, and figure the board footage needed. And, if at all possible, buy from a dealer who will allow you to hand-select your boards. Hand-selecting gives you two distinct advantages. First, you can choose the grain, color, and texture you'd like to have. Second, you'll be able to select your lumber in sizes that accommodate your cutting list and thus reduce waste. If you cannot choose your own lumber, allow about 20 percent for waste, and add it to your needed board footage. Where to Buy Cabinet-Quality Lumber In addition to the cabinet-quality lumber available from lumberyards, home centers, and retail specialty stores, you have the option of mail-order buying. Though you'll be able to order pieces down to 1/4" in thickness, lengths normally wil be limited to about 6', because shipping is done via UPS or parcel post.

Sheet Goods Selector

Do you know what sheet goods work best for shop fixtures? Or which ones excel in furniture construction? Armed with our chart, you'll be an instant expert.

Share

Print Comments (4)

Pages in this Story:

Particleboard, Melamine, and Hardboard Medium-Density Fiberboard, Softwood Plywood, Medium-Density & High Density Overlay Plywood Hardwood Plywood, Baltic and Finnish Birch, Appleply Bendable Plywood

Particleboard, Melamine, and Hardboard

PARTICLEBOARD Description: Wood shredded into tiny chips (essentially sawdust, often from waste wood), combined with adhesives, and then heated and compressed to form sheets. Uses: Widely used as a substrate for flooring and countertops and for building inexpensive knockdown furniture and cabinetry. Also suitable for some shop fixtures. Available Sizes: Sold in 4x8' 1/4", 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", 1", and 1-1/8" thicknesses. Half and quarter sheets are often available. Common Grades: PBU -- for floor underlayment. M-S, M-1, M-2, M-3 industrial grades are best for making shelving and countertops. Pros: PBU grade is readily available and inexpensive. Particleboard cuts easily and is fairly stable. Cons: Low stiffness, heavy, holds fasteners poorly, not moisture resistant. Where to find it: Home centers carry 1/4-3/4" PBU grade. "M" grades (mostly M-2) are found at building-material and millwork suppliers. Price (3/4"x4x8', sheet unless noted): $12+ per sheet for PBU grade. "M" grade prices range about 20 percent higher.

MELAMINE Description: Particleboard faced with paper impregnated with melamine resin, a type of plastic. Paper on low-cost types is simply adhered. Higher-cost sheets are thermally fused (essentially melted together). Uses: Great for making cabinet carcases because it wipes clean easily. Use it, as well, for shop fixtures or to make an economical router-table top. Available Sizes: Sold in 49x97" oversize sheets in 1/4", 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4" thicknesses. Common Grades: There are no standard grades for melamine, but there are "vertical" and "horizontal" types. Higher-priced sheets generally feature thermally fused coatings and are made with thicker paper. Pros: It is inexpensive, readily available in a variety of colors and in wood-grain patterns, and has an easily cleaned surface. Also available with kraft paper or real-wood veneer on one face. Cons: Melamine is not moisture resistant, heavy, edges chip easily when cutting unless you use blade designed for cutting laminates. Where to find it: Home centers carry 1/2" and 3/4" sheets, shelves, and closet parts. Colors other than white and patterned papers are available by special order. Price (3/4"x4x8', sheet unless noted): $25+ for adhered-surface, vertical-grade white sheets common in home centers. Colors and wood-grain patterns cost slightly more. $40+ for thermally fused sheets.

HARDBOARD Description: Ground wood pulp combined with resins and pressed into sheets. May be smooth on one or both faces. Uses: Excellent for shop fixtures and jigs (especially the variety with two smooth faces) and benchtops. Use perforated hardboard for hanging tools. Available Sizes: Available in two thicknesses: 1/8" and 1/4" in 4x8' sheets. Common Grades: Service (2 green stripes), Standard (1 green stripe), Service-tempered (2 red stripes), Tempered (1 red stripe), S1S (smooth one side), S2S (smooth two sides) Pros: Readily available, easy to cut, relatively stable, available with two smooth sides or one, takes paint well. Cons: Standard and Service grades are susceptible to moisture, can't sand faces, flexible, edges easily damaged, holds fasteners poorly. Where to find it: Home centers carry 4x8' sheets plus half and quarter sheets in standard and tempered grades. Look for the edge stripes. Price $10 (1/4" 4'x8', tempered). Perforated sheets are also available at a similar price.

Continued on page 2: Medium-Density Fiberboard, Softwood Plywood, Medium-Density & High Density Overlay Plywood

Medium-Density Fiberboard, Softwood Plywood, Medium-Density & High Density Overlay Plywood

MEDIUM-DENSITY FIBERBOARD (MDF) Description: Cellulose fibers combined with synthetic resin and formed under heat and pressure. Uses: Excellent for shop jigs and fixtures, cabinets, painted projects, molding and millwork, furniture, and as a substrate under veneer and plastic laminate. Available Sizes: 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", and 7/8" thicknesses in both 4x8' and 49x97" sheets. Common Grades: One main grade: Industrial. Lower grades, which aren't commonly available, carry "B" or "shop" grade. Also classified by density: Medium-density (MD) is standard; low-density (LD) is a lightweight version. Pros: Flat, no face or core voids,

consistent thickness, glues easily, has machinable edges. Cons: Heavy [100 lbs. per sheet in MD grade; low-density version (LD) weighs approximately 60 lbs.], standard wood screws hold poorly. Where to find it: Home centers carry medium-density (MD) 3/4" sheets. Low-density (LD) is available through millwork suppliers and some hardwood retailers. Price (3/4"x4x8', sheet unless noted): $20+ for both MD and LD.

SOFTWOOD PLYWOOD Description: Face-glued layers of thin softwood veneer. Uses: Outdoor projects (exterior rated), carpentry and construction, shop cabinets, substrates, underlayment for floors and countertops. Available Sizes: 1/4", 5/16", 11/32", 1/2", 5/8", 2332", and 3/4" thicknesses in 4x8' sheets. Common Grades: Veneer grades: A, B, C, D. Panel grades: include sheathing and "Sturd-I-Floor." Exposure: Exterior, Exposure 1, Exposure 2, Interior. Pros: Cheaper than hardwood plywood, readily available, face veneers can have a nice appearance in higher grades. Cons: Built more for performance than appearance; thick plies reduce stiffness; interior plies may have voids, face veneers often patched. Where to find it: All home centers and building-supply stores carry an array of softwood plywood for construction. Price (3/4"x4x8', sheet unless noted): $25+ for A-C sanded, varies by type and material.

MEDIUM-DENSITY & HIGH-DENSITY OVERLAY PLYWOOD (MDO/HDO) Description: Exterior-rated softwood plywood covered on both faces with resin-impregnated fiber (paper). Uses: Used extensively for highway signs, great for outdoor projects, siding, painted projects, watercraft, cabinets, shop fixtures, and concrete forms. Available Sizes: 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4" thicknesses in 4x8' sheets. Common Grades: Follows softwood plywood grading. Face and back plies (which are covered with paper) rate as B grade or better, inner plies are C grade. Pros: Resistant to weather and water, flat, smooth, surface is easily paintable, machines easily, and is very durable. Cons: Not widely available, heavy. Where to

find it: Some home centers, wood specialty stores, sign shops. Price (3/4"x4x8', sheet unless noted): $35+ for MDO, HDO costs slightly more.

Continued on page 3: Hardwood Plywood, Baltic and Finnish Birch, Appleply

Hardwood Plywood, Baltic and Finnish Birch, Appleply

HARDWOOD PLYWOOD Description: Veneers (softwood or hardwood) glued in layers with alternating grain, and covered with hardwood veneer. Uses: The traditional sheet good of choice for everything from furniture and cabinets to wall paneling and boxes. Available Sizes: 1/4", 1/2", and 3/4" are most common. Occasionally, you'll find 1/8", 3/8", and 5/8" in some species.

Common Grades: Face: AA, A, B, C/D/E, Special. Back: 1, 2, 3, 4. Core: J, K, L, M. Panel types: Technical type, Type I, Type II (Type II most common for interior use.) Pros: More stable and less expensive than solid wood, widely available, made in a variety of species, and with many choices for veneer matching on faces. Cons: Thick sheets are heavy, exposed ply edges may mean you'll have to band with solid wood, thin face veneers (1/32") are easy to sand through and damage. Where to find it: Home centers carry a few species, such as oak, birch, maple. Turn to building suppliers and hardwood retailers for other species. Price (3/4"x4x8', sheet unless noted): $35 to $100+. Prices vary greatly due to species, face and back grades, ply count, and cut of veneer. A/2 or B/2 is reasonably priced and suitable for furniture.

BALTIC AND FINNISH BIRCH Description: Made from ultra-thin (1/16"), void-free birch veneers. Finnish birch is like Baltic, but is made with exterior adhesive for outdoor use. Uses: Use to create shop jigs and fixtures, cabinets, drawer sides, furniture, and as a substrate.

Available Sizes: In millimeters: 4 (1/8"), 6.5 (1/4"), 9 (3/8"), 12 (1/2"), 15 (5/8"), and 18 (3/4") in 60x60" sheets. Common Grades: No standardized grades, but manufactured with void-free plies and face veneers carrying a grade of B or better. Pros: Stiff, stable, consistent thickness, no voids, nice-looking edge, holds screws. Cons: Hard to find, costly, odd (60x60") size sheet, available only with birch face. Where to find it: Woodworking-supply stores, hardwood retailers, mail-order catalogs (small sizes). Price (3/4"x4x8', sheet unless noted): $45+ for standard-size 60x60" sheets.

APPLEPLY Description: American version of Baltic birch with alder and birch core plies and quality veneer faces. Birch face is standard, other woods available. Uses: Same uses as Baltic above, plus applications where a fine-hardwood face veneer is needed. Available Sizes: Available in 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 3/4", 1", and 1-1/4" thicknesses, in 4x8' sheets. Common Grades: No standardized grades, but manufactured with void-free plies and face veneers carrying a grade

of B or better. Pros: Stiff, stable, void-free, nice-looking edge, holds screws, offers a variety of face veneers. Cons: Difficult to find, costly, requires large order to get optional veneers. Where to find it: You'll find distributor information at www.statesind.com. Price (3/4"x4x8', sheet unless noted): $50+.

Continued on page 4: Bendable Plywood Bendable Plywood

BENDABLE PLYWOOD Description: Plywood with a single face veneer and core plies with all grain running perpendicular to face to allow cross-grain bending. Uses: Used mostly as a substrate for building cabinets, etc., with rounded corners. Sheets with clear face veneers are suitable for furniture. Available Sizes: 1/8" and 3/8" are common, though thicker sheets are produced. Sold in 4x8' sheets. Common Grades: Able to conform to tight radii without splitting

or cracking with no need for kerf-bending or steaming. Pros: Flexibility allows radiused corners, decorative shapes. Cons: Not designed for structural use, quality of face veneer varies greatly. Where to find it: Building-supply stores and hardwood retailers. Price (3/4"x4x8', sheet unless noted): $35+ (1/8" 4'x8' sheet).