Flyin Miata FM IIa turbo kit installation instructions for 1999-00 Miatas with 2 catalytic converters

Revision 1.1 11-17-04

Contents
Introduction........................................................................ 3 Tool and Equipment Requirements ................................... 4 Disassembly ...................................................................... 5 Reposition Power Steering Fluid Reservoir....................... 7 Oil Return Line .................................................................. 8 Section 3: Intake Manifold and Fuel Lines ....................... 9 Oil Supply ........................................................................ 13 Mount Turbocharger ....................................................... 14 Oil Lines ........................................................................ 17 Water Lines ..................................................................... 18 Signal Source Fitting ....................................................... 18 Mount Intercooler ............................................................ 19 Intercooler Tubes ............................................................ 20 Section 12: Turbo Inlet Piping ........................................ 22 Boost Gauge ................................................................... 24 Miscellaneous.................................................................. 24 Link Piggyback ECU and Boost Control Solenoid ........... 26 General Rules of Operation............................................. 27

Introduction
Thank you for purchasing this Flyin Miata turbo system. We regard the installation as a mutual project and will be pleased to offer help at any time. We remain committed to making this a successful and enjoyable experience for all concerned. These instructions will offer the installer a guide for the installation and operation of the Flyin Miata turbocharger system.

Please read through these directions entirely. Evaluate your own skills honestly and decide whether this installation is something that you are comfortable doing. Realize that you are doubling the horsepower of your car and the consequences of improper installation could destroy your engine. To install this kit safely, you must have a firm grasp of how cars work. Proper tool use is critical. We are more than willing to help anyone install this kit, but you must be honest with yourself with respect to your skill level before you jump into the deep end. The success of this installation will be determined by a variety of factors. These instructions should be adhered to unless reasonable cause for deviation exists. The vehicle must be in excellent condition and in proper tune prior to starting the installation. Do not attempt to install this kit on a car that is not running properly . Before installation, fix any problems. This will help prevent our kit getting blamed for pre-existing conditions. Care and attention to detail by the installer are of extreme importance. The daily operator of the vehicle must observe all operational guidelines. Inventory all the components when the kit arrives. We strive to ensure all the components are included in the kit, but if a part is left out you will want to know it before you are looking for it during the installation. Prior to starting the installation, go through 2 tanks of the highest octane fuel available. Do not dilute with lesser octane fuel already in the tank. If necessary, drain the tank. Using lower octane fuel will result in knock that could damage the engine. All left or right directional references will be from the driver viewpoint. If clarification of these instructions is required, please contact us at 970-242-3800 or via e-mail to tech@flyinmiata.com. Suggestions for improvements of these instructions are welcome. Please make notes on the instruction set and mail to: Flyin Miata, 331 South 13th Street, Grand Junction, CO 81501. These instructions and the operational requirements for this system must be reviewed with the ownerdriver prior to delivery of the vehicle to the end user.

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Tool and Equipment Requirements

Every project on your Miata presents the opportunity to purchase more tools. Below are the tools you will need for the successful installation of this turbo kit. metric open/box wrenches metric socket set standard open/box wrenches assorted slot and Phillips screw drivers metric allen wrenches teflon tape floor jack jack stands x 4 Preliminary 1) Raise the car and support with jack stands. 2) Drain coolant. There is a drain plug in the center of the bottom of the radiator. 3) Drain the motor oil. Install the new filter, temporarily reinstall the drain plug. 4) Disconnect the battery. oil filter and oil change spray can of cleaning solvent clean rags hand drill with 12 chuck silicone sealant (high temp) loctite (blue) factory shop manual or equivalent duct tape one quart of mineral spirits

Disassembly
1) Remove the air box and mass air meter assembly as a unit. Remove the mass air meter from the box. The air flow meter is fragile, treat it with care. 2) Remove the air temperature sensor and its rubber grommet from the air box. Do not touch the sensing element. 3) Remove the cross tube going to the throttle body and the rubber hose going to the breather. Keep the cross tube handy, it will be reused later in the installation. 4) Remove the windscreen washer bottle. Remove the hose from the pump and tie it off. Leave it hang in the corner of the engine bay. It will be reconnected later in the installation process. 5) Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield. Spray penetrating oil on the fasteners on the exhaust system from the manifold to the inlet to the second catalytic converter as all these fasteners will be removed. Also, spray the two O2 sensors. 6) Under the car, un-bolt the pipe from the outlet of the first catalytic converter to the inlet of the second catalytic converter. Disconnect the pipe from the bracket attached to the transmission. 7) Remove the two O2 sensors. Keep track of the positions of each one. The one before the catalytic converter needs to be positioned before the catalytic converter after the turbo is installed. 8) Remove the EGR pipe from the motor. There are three connections. One at the rear of the intake manifold, one at the rear of the #4 runner on the exhaust manifold, and a bracket on the rear of the head. The stock EGR pipe will be replaced later with a new pipe included with the turbo kit. 9) Remove the nuts securing the exhaust manifold to the head. Remove the manifold and the first cat by lifting it up out of the top of the engine bay. Plug the exhaust ports with rags. 10) With the manifold on the floor or a work bench, label the catalytic converter as shown in the photo. This will make aligning the cat on the turbo much easier. Remove the cat from the exhaust manifold and save the metal gasket, it will be used again.

11) Remove the lower splash pan and the black radiator inlet duct. 12) Remove the bracket for the downpipe on bellhousing, see photo on the right. Replace the bellhousing bolts. The bracket will not be reused. 13) Remove the bracket beneath the flow meter/air filter box. This bracket is connected to the black plastic shield that holds two relays. Remove the relays from the plastic and remove the plastic. 14) Remove the horn and its bracket, let the horn hang from its wire for now.

Reposition Power Steering Fluid Reservoir

Bag to use: #16 The power steering fluid reservoir needs to be moved from the original location to the same location on the opposite side of the engine bay. 1) The fluid must be drained from the reservoir but there is no easy and clean way to do it. Position a bucket under the reservoir, pull off the larger hose and get out of the way. 2) Attach the reservoir bracket #30809 to the frame on the right side of the engine bay. One of the 6mm x 20mm bolts can go into a hole already threaded. The second bolt needs a nut and is right on the inboard ledge of the frame rail. 3) Unbolt the reservoir from the body. Mount it on the bracket installed in the previous step. Reuse the original bolts. 4) Pull the original 5/8 line off of the PWS pump and add the new 65 inch line. Route it across the engine down on top of the sway bar and up to the reservoir position. Trim the length as required. Secure both ends with the 15-24mm hose clamps. 5) Pull the smaller PWS line off the frame mounted metal tube. Attach a new 3/8 line and run it over to the PWS reservoir. Trim length as required and secure with the 1320mm clamps. 6) The hose will be close to the downpipe once the turbo is installed. Cover the new 5/8 hose where it makes the U-turn with heat shield material to protect it from the heat of the downpipe.

Oil Return Line

Bags to use: #2C, #5A Drilling and threading a hole in the oil sump is a perfectly safe process when done correctly. In a perfect world we would all the pull the pan to drill the hole, but it is an awful lot of work. Should any shavings slip through, they will find it very difficult to get off the bottom of the sump and into the oil pickup through the fine screen on the pickup tube. The drain hole location is 2 below the upper lip and as far forward on the left side of the sump as possible, directly under the A/C compressor bracket (if so equipped). See picture below. If you have compressed air that you can regulate, set pressure to 5psi and connect a hose to valve cover breather on left side of valve cover. Drill until the bit just breaks through, then up pressure to 10psi. Keep the air blowing while you drill and tap the hole. DO NOT use pressure over 10psi at any time. More pressure will blow the seals out of the engine! If you do not have compressed air that you can regulate, it is recommended to drop the oil pan to drill the hole. 1) Drill the hole with the .578 (37/64) diameter bit. It may be easier to start with a smaller drill, then work up to the larger bit. STOP DRILLING AS SOON AS YOU BREAK THROUGH! It is possible to hit the oil pick-up tube if you continue through. This is not a good thing, as it will cause loss of oil pressure. A good way to stop the bit from going too far is to wrap the bit with masking, electrical or duct tape about 1/4 from its end. 2) Keeping the compressed air running, tap the threads with the 3/8 NPT tap. Grease the tap to help collect the shavings. Clean and re-apply grease regularly. Sink the tap until three threads on the tap remain outside the wall of the sump. 3) Clean the surfaces as thoroughly as possible. 4) Put JB Weld epoxy or silicone sealant on the threads of the 3/8NPT-5/8 hose barb and screw it in tightly. Grease the inside of the 5/8 hose and slide it onto the fitting and route the hose upward so that it can be accessed from the engine compartment. 5) Make sure the oil drain plug is out and there is a clean catch pan under the oil sump. Attach a funnel to the top of the hose and pour the mineral spirits down through the hose. This will clean out any shavings that may have gotten into the oil pan. 6) Allow the solvent to drain for approximately 15 minutes before replacing the sump plug. Remove the hose from the sump and set it aside for later use. If the hose is difficult to remove, cut it at the barb. The length of hose is a few inches longer than necessary.

Section 3: Intake Manifold and Fuel Lines

Bag to use: #15 The turbo kit includes a new lower half of the intake manifold. The old manifold must be taken apart to add the new lower half. You will be working very close to the starter and the power wires going to it. Make sure the battery is disconnected at this point. 1) Remove the fuel filler cap to relieve pressure in the fuel system. 2) Start the removal process by disconnecting the PCV hose and the brake booster hose. Remove the following items shown in the photos.

3) Remove the six bolts that secure the upper half of the intake manifold to the lower half. There are three long ones on the inside and three short ones on the outside. 4) Remove the upper half of the intake manifold, as shown above. The throttle body has water lines attached to it. They can be left connected by tilting the upper half forward as shown in the photo on the right.

5) The lower half of the manifold can now be removed. Nine nuts hold the manifold to the engine, four on the bottom and five on the top. These nuts are difficult to access, but with patience they can be removed. The lower nuts are easiest removed from below using a 3/8 socket with a 6 extension. To access the top nuts, pull back the plastic conduit for the fuel injector wires. Then use an offset wrench to remove the nuts. Be careful when reaching around the manifold. There are many sharp edges on the casting that can cut your skin. 6) Before reinstalling the manifold, jump to the next section, Installing the Oil Source, and do that now. It is much easier with the manifold off the car. 7) Take the old manifold lower half to a bench and move all the components from the old manifold over to the new manifold. Dont forget the vacuum hose on the inside with the check valve in it. This one is very difficult to install after the manifold is mounted to the engine.

8) Instatll the new lower manifold and the upper manifold to the engine. Reinstall all the parts taken off the manifold except the EGR pipe. It will be reinstalled later. 9) Fuel for the auxiliary injectors will be picked up from the factory fuel lines on the passenger side of the engine bay. There you will find a short section of hose, wrapped in soft foam, connecting two forward facing hose barbs. Cut a slice in the thin plastic hose to remove it from both hose barbs. 10) Route two pieces of 3/8 fuel line from the two plastic hose barbs to the brass hose barbs on the auxiliary fuel rail. Use the photo at the right for hose routing. Retain with 3/8 clamps and make sure they are tight. The fuel is under high pressure and leaks can be disastrous. 11) Route two pieces of the 3/8 fuel line from the two plastic hose barbs to the brass hose barbs on the auxiliary fuel rail. The hoses are outlined in green for illustration in the photo below. Flow direction is not important. Retain with 13-20mm clamps and make sure they are tight. The fuel is under high pressure and leaks can be disastrous.

Oil Supply

Bag to use: #4B The oil supply system is the lifeblood of the turbo. When running the oil supply line make sure to stay clear of heat sources and not to sharply bend the line. The oil supply will tap into the oil galley at the oil pressure sensor located under the intake manifold between cylinders #2 & #3. 1) Remove the oil pressure sensor using a 15/16 socket. 2) Put the 1/8NPT T in a vice and attach the oil fitting, #36-50200. The threaded end opposite the groove goes into the T fitting. Next add the oil pressure sender as shown to the right. Do not install the union at this time. Do not use teflon tape here as a small piece of it could find its way into the oil system and plug up an oil passage. Instead, use a small amount of sealant on the threads. 3) Thread this assembly into the engine block, again using sealant on the threads. When tightening the assembly, make sure the hole for the union faces aft. 4) Once the T fitting is installed in the engine, screw the union, #36-50160, into the T fitting. 5) Connect the oil supply line to the union and run it up to the top of the engine. Cover the end with a small bag for now.

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Mount Turbocharger
Bag to use: #8B The turbocharger, exhaust manifold and turbine outlet casting have been pre-assembled at Flyin Miata. This complete assembly will be mounted onto the engine. The assembly will look like the photo below.

1) Wrap the heater hose located aft of the exhaust manifold with insulation. Safety wire the insulation securely in place. A stapler will suffice if no safety wire is available. 2) Wrap insulation around the brake line at the left side frame rail as it turns down to go under the car. Secure with safety wire. Do not use tie wraps, as they will melt.

3) Lubricate the inside of the 5/8 oil drain line with grease. Slide the oil drain hose onto the fitting and secure with a 15-24mm hose clamp. Cover the top 3 of the hose with heat shield material. Secure with safety wire.

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4) Add the water hoses to the turbo. The inboard hose should be 30 long and the outboard hose 36 long. Retain with the 5/16 clamps. The outboard fitting has purposely been left loose. Remove it and add the hose. This fitting will be installed after the turbo is mounted to the engine. 5) Cover the top 3 of the water hoses and the oil drain line with heat shield fabric. Secure with safety wire. 6) Remove the rags from the exhaust ports. 7) Remember labeling the catalytic converter with TOP during the disassembly process? That label will make installation easier by ensuring proper orientation of the cat. Bolt the catalytic converter to the downpipe using the 10mm x 35mm bolts and 10mm nuts. Reuse the original metal gasket. 8) Install the exhaust manifold, turbo, downpipe, and cat into the engine bay. Reuse the original gasket between head and manifold. Once the manifold is on the studs, attach the water bypass tube bracket to the exhaust stud, as it was originally configured. 8) Secure the manifold with the factory nuts. Start with the center nut and move out to the ends in an alternating sequence. 9) Fit the EGR pipe into the rear of the exhaust manifold and then to the rear of the intake manifold. Dont forget the connection at the rear of the head. 10) Install the cat-to-cat pipe, #30808, to the outlet of the catalytic converter. Reuse the original studs and lock nuts.

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11) Install the O2 sensor originally located before the catalytic converter in the hole on the bottom of the exhaust manifold. Be careful not to twist the wires while screwing it in. 12) Install the O2 sensor originally located after the catalytic converter into the hole in the cat-to-cat pipe.

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Oil Lines

Bags to use: #4B, #5A 1) Route the drain hose down outboard of the steering shaft and on to the fitting at the sump. Ensure that the drain hose always travels downhill and does not interfere with the steering shaft. The hose will need to be trimmed for a perfect fit. Secure with a 15-24mm clamp. 2) Route the oil supply line across the rear of the engine on the firewall and around the rear of the turbo. Attach it to the swivel fitting on the turbo. Slit the 18 piece of hose and put it around the hose where it would otherwise contact the brake master cylinder and brake lines. Retain with a single 814mm hose clamp. Tighten the oil line onto the swivel fitting. 3) Tie wrap the oil line in a few places along the fire wall and do not let it touch the turbine housing. Caution: The stainless steel braid will chafe completely through brake lines, hoses and body metal. Ensure that the line is not allowed to rub on anything that would not be damage tolerant. 4) Reinstall the belly pan.

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Water Lines
Bag to use: #3A The Garrett turbo is water cooled and oil cooled. This is the reason it will live well past 100,000 miles with modest care. The water for the turbo will be picked up at the front of the engine. 1) Under the thermostat housing, remove the small water hose that connects the thermostat housing to the small connection about six inches below. 2) Route the inboard turbo water line to the upper hose fitting on the thermostat housing. Secure with a 5/16 clamp 3) Route the outboard turbo water line to the lower water hose connection. Secure with a 5/16 clamp.

Signal Source Fitting

Bag to use: #10A 1) The signal source fitting is placed into the hose at the brake vacuum assist unit directly behind the master cylinder reservoir. Cut a segment out of the hose about 3/4 inboard of the check valve. Install the fitting and point the two small barbs down. Secure with two 13-20mm clamps. This fitting will be used for any boost or vacuum signals that will be needed by the car or the turbo kit. This will include the BOV, boost gauge and cruise control. Be sure to cap any unused ports.

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Mount Intercooler

Bags to use: #6C, #7C, #9B 1) For reasons of airflow, the hose bosses on the intercooler are larger than the connecting steel tubes. This requires some effort to get the hoses in place. The best technique is to cock the hose on the boss, reach inside the hose with two fingers and pull the hose outward onto the boss. Install the 2-1/4 silicone connecting hoses, #3660025, to both ends of the intercooler with the 52-76mm clamps before installing the intercooler.

2) Working space or lack thereof, requires tube #30708 to be installed onto the IC inlet before placing it into position. Use 52-76mm clamps and tighten the clamps with an 8mm socket to get them as tight as possible without stripping the threads. 3) Remove both tiedown hooks in the nose of the car if they are still present. The intercooler mounts in front of the radiator, using the rearmost hole from the tiedown hook on each side. The hardware to mount the intercooler is attached to one of the arms. Note: If the car is fitted with power steering, the fluid cooler will need to be bent forward to clear the intercooler. 4) Reinstall the black plastic radiator inlet duct. Cut the top half of the duct off. Then cut a 17-1/2 x 3-3/4 rectangle out of the lower portion of the duct 4 from the left side. Cut a 2 x 2 piece out of the left side as well. After installing the duct, attach the lower tab on the intercooler to the hole in the nose of the car. Attach with the factory bolt.

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Intercooler Tubes

Bags to use: #6D, #7D, #9B There usually exists some confusion regarding the sequence of the intercooler tubes. The tubes are numbered and are called by the order with which they progress from the turbo. The sequence is as follows: Compressor out tube #1 Compressor out tube #2 Intercooler IC out tube #1 Throttle inlet 30806 30807 30709 30710 30711FM First out of turbo Second tube attaches to IC inlet First tube out of IC Attaches to throttle body

If you choose to remove the tube numbers, lacquer thinner, acetone, or spray carb cleaner will remove the ink without injuring the powder coating. All of the IC pipes have beads around the ends of the pipes. When fitting the pipes make sure the hose clamp gets tightened with the bead to the inside of the clamp and with the silicon fully under the hose clamp. The best situation is to have both pipes touching each other, but this is not always possible. A gap is acceptable as long as the bead is inboard of the clamp. Leave all the connections loose until all the pipes are fitted to allow for some adjustment. 1) Attach the throttle body inlet pipe, #30711FM to the throttle body using the 2-1/2 diameter silicone hose, #36-60030. Secure with the 59-83mm clamps. 2) Install the IC outlet pipe, #30710, from the intercooler to the throttle body pipe. Use a piece of the 2 x 3 silicone hose, #36-60010 and the 5276mm hose clamps. This pipe goes through the opening in the fender liner. 3) On the compressor outlet fit a 2 x 2 silicone hose, #36-60015, and secure with a 52-76mm clamp. 20

4) Put comp. outlet pipe #1, 30806, in this piece of silicone and position it so that the bypass valve fitting and the opposite end point forward. 5) Use a piece of the 1-3/8 silicone hose, 36-6000, and two 33-57mm hose clamps, 36-70000, to attached the bypass valve to comp outlet pipe #1. Position the outlet of the bypass valve up. 6) A small notch will need to be cut out of the lower nose section to clear the second compressor outlet pipe. 7) Fit a 2 x 3 piece of silicone hose, 36-60010, on the other end of comp outlet pipe #1. Fit the larger diameter end of comp outlet pipe #2, 30807, into the inlet of the intercooler. Simultaneously, engage the silicone hose on the end of comp inlet pipe #1. When both pipes are positioned, secure all the joints with 5276mm clamps.

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Section 12: Turbo Inlet Piping

Bags to use: #6D, #7D, #10A, #12C, #13A 1) Attach the 4mm silicone vacuum hose to the barb on the bypass valve. The hose is slightly small for this application, but a small amount of lube will allow it to slide onto the barb easily. Drape the hose over the cam cover for now. 2) Mount the baffle to the left side of the engine bay using two factory 6mm bolts. 3) Take the 4mm vacuum hose from the bypass valve and run in over the left side of the engine bay under the baffle. Run it up to the signal source fitting in the brake booster line. Secure the hose along the way with a few zip ties. 4) Screw the two rubber isolators to the mass air meter. Mount the mass air meter to the baffle by the isolators and two 6mm nuts. 5) Fit the 2-1/4 x 2 piece of silicone hose, 36-60020, to the inlet of the turbo. Secure it with a 52-76mm clamp. 6) Cut about 1 off the old crossover tube where it mounted to the mass air meter. Slip this over the outlet of the mass air meter. This will act as a gasket for the new comp inlet pipe. 7) The small end of the compressor inlet pipe, #30805, fits to the compressor inlet and the large end slip-fits onto the mass air meter with the end of the rubber hose as a gasket. 8) Place the second 1-3/8 silicone hose and two 33-57mm hose clamps onto the outlet port of the bypass valve. 9) Install the 1/8NPT 90-degree 3/8 hose barb , #36-50063, into the compressor inlet pipe. Position this fitting so it points inboard and aft when the pipe is held in position. 10) Mount the compressor inlet pipe, #30805, into the turbo inlet. Simultaneously, engage the bypass outlet to the fitting on the compressor inlet pipe and the outlet of the mass air meter to the inlet of the compressor inlet pipe. 11) Insert the air temperature sensor rubber grommet into the hole in the compressor inlet tube. Plug the factory harness into the mass air meter. Tie off the extra wire to keep it from touching the fan belt. Note: Ensure the compressor inlet pipe dose not touch the radiator. If it does, shorten the 2-1/4 silicone hose at the inlet of the turbo to move the inlet pipe aft.

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11) Tighten down the hose clamps on the compressor inlet and the bypass valve when the compressor inlet pipe is positioned properly. 12) Fit the air filter to the inlet of the mass air meter using the suppled hose clamp.

Boost Gauge

Bags to use: #11A, #12B 1) Mount the boost gauge in the cup. The fit should be tight so no mounting hardware is required. 2) Run the vacuum hose, supplied with the gauge, from the gauge down between the dash and the doorframe. Insert a tube from a can of WD-40 into the end of the hose at the boost gauge. This will keep the hose from being pinched as it goes between the cup and the A pillar. 3) Cut the supplied wire in half and connect each length to one of the wires on the bulb in the boost gauge with the supplied butt connectors. Run these wires to the dimmer in the dashboard. The dimmer switch can be easily popped out of the dash by pressing from behind. 4) Use the quick splices to connect the two wires from the light to the two red wires going to the dimmer control. 5) Fasten the cup to the A pillar with the black sheet metal screws. 6) Connect the vacuum hose to the signal source fitting.

Miscellaneous
Bag to use: #12B 1) Cut the small hose coming out of the perimeter of the carbon canister (round, black, coffee can looking container on the right side fender). Insert one way check valve, oriented so that blue side points to the canister. 2) If the car has cruise control, cut the vacuum hose going to the cruise control actuator and install the second one-way valve in the hose with the blue side toward the cruise unit. 3) Attach the heat shield. 4) Remove the spark plugs and set the gap down to .030. 5) Reinstall coolant drain plug and refill with 50/50 coolant mixture. DO NOT use more than 50% antifreeze, this will cause overheating. Use just enough antifreeze for your particular winter conditions.

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6) Make sure an oil filter is installed. Fill the engine with motor oil. No additional oil needs to be added for the turbo. The factory recommended 3.7 quarts is perfect. We strongly recommend using synthetic oil with the turbo kit in a 10W40 or 20W50 weight.

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Link Piggyback ECU and Boost Control Solenoid

1) Refer to the Flyin Miata piggyback ECU installation manual for instructions on installing these electronic components. 2) Once all electronics are installed and battery reconnected, have a helper start the car while you watch for coolant, oil or fuel leaks. As the car warms up, you will likely have a fair amount of smoke as greasy fingerprints burn off and paint cures.

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General Rules of Operation

Use the best premium fuel at all times. If any sounds of rough combustion occur, cease using boost until the cause is identified and corrected. Engine oil change interval for mineral base oils is 2500 miles. Synthetic base oils may extend the interval to 5000 miles. The synthetic oils are strongly recommended. If you hear knock from the motor, lift off the throttle immediately. The forces from knock are the most damaging to an engine. Keep an eye on the boost gauge. If you see the boost pressure exceeding your target boost level lift off the accelerator pedal. Be kind to your transmission and differential. The stock transmission and differential have proven reliable in high power cars provided mechanical empathy is exercised. This means no smoky burnouts from a standing stop and no speed shifting.

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