Krakow

Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
KRAKW
April - May 2012
N75
Poland - 5z (w tym 8% VAT)
UK - 5
EU (excl. Poland & UK) - 3
krakow.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1508-2334
Salwator
Go tell it on the mound
Szymborska
A l yrical life
Discover anew
new collections
Seduced by the frst rays of spring, come
to the place that enchants with its variety.
Discover the exceptional shops, the modern
multiplex and the ftness club.
Let yourself be captivated
by Galeria Kazimierz.
Opening hours:
Mon.- Sat.: 10 a.m. - 10 p.m., Sun.: 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.

Galeria Kazimierz, Krakw, 34 Podgrska Street
www.galeriakazimierz.pl
4
Krakw In Your Pocket
CONTENTS
Arrival & Transport 12
The Basics 16
Culture & Events 18
Hotels 24
Restaurants 32
Cafs 64
Nightlife
Bars & Pubs 66
Clubs 71
Kazimierz Nightlife 74
History 76
Sightseeing 78
Old Town 79
Wawel 89
Kazimierz 92
Podgrze 96
Nowa Huta 98
Further Afield
Wieliczka 102
Tyskie 105
Auschwitz 106
Tarnw 108
Local Football 112
Leisure 114
Shopping 117
Directory 122
Maps & Index
Street Register 123
City Centre Map 125
City Map 126
Nowa Huta Map 128
Listings Index 129
Features Index 130
These days you cant get people to car pool or even share
a table at a restaurant, let alone do something together
that requires actual cooperation. In the early 19th century
however, thousands of people from all over Poland came
together to build this enormous earthwork in honour of their
fallen hero Tadeusz Kociuszko (also known as The Greatest
Pole Ever). Oft regarded as something unobtainable in the
distance, Kociuszko Mound is actually only a scenic stroll
away. While this larger-than-life structure looms over the
entire Old Town, this issue were also bringing Salwators
other nearby sites including Krakws largest sacral
complex, its oldest church and most picturesque cemetery -
out of the shadows and into the light on page 8. The perfect
springtime activity, turn to our feature to explore Krakws
most green and peaceful district.
Contents
Long regarded as Polands greatest living writer, Wisawa
Szymborska passed away in Krakw on February 1
st
,
just after our last issue went to press. Thousands -
including President Bronisaw Komorowski, Prime Minister
Donald Tusk, dozens of well-known writers and actors
and a large assembly of the general public - gathered in
Rakowicki Cemetery for her funeral on February 9
th
as
snow silently fell over the mournful procession. A secular
ceremony, Szymborskas ashes were placed in a family
plot as Ella Fitzgerald sang Black Coffee the beloved
poets favourite recording. A gentle ironist known for
her intellectual honesty, who as she herself put it
borrowed weight words, then labored heavily so that they
might seem light, we pay our tribute to this wonderful
lyricist on page 84.
6
Krakw In Your Pocket
FOREWORD
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright WIYP Sp. z o. o.
1999-2012. Maps copyright cartographer.
All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced in any
form, except brief extracts for the purpose
of review, without written permission
from the publisher and copyright owner.
The brand name In Your Pocket is used
under license from UAB In Your Pocket
(Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Maps
Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM
ul. Poselska 20, 31-117 Krakw,
tel./fax 12 421 24 48
agencja@pod-aniolem.com.pl
Few cities emerge from their winter hangover as exuberant
as Krakw, where all over Polands cultural capital at this
very moment the beer garden umbrellas are in full bloom,
the pigeons are cooing and mounting each other, couples
are petting in the Planty and picnicking on the Wisa
riverbanks, while street performers play merry music in
public squares or stand by in silent protest of the clownish
antics of costumed tourists. Krakw has its spring buzz on
in a big way and theres no better time to be here than the
season of rising temperatures and hemlines. The arrival
of spring also brings with it the start of Krakws high
festival season, plus plenty of holidays and special events
including Easter (April 8
th
) and its accompanying market
on the main square, the Emmaus festival in Zwierzyniec
(April 9th) and the Rkawka medieval fair (April 10th) on
Krakus Mound which follow it, national celebrations on
May 1
st
and 3
rd
, the student mayhem of Juwenalia (May
11-12) and the Off Camera Festival (April 12-22)PLs
largest independent cinema showcase. Though most
visitors to Krakw dont get past exploring the highest
density of bars and cafes in the world (actually most of
us who live here havent gotten past them either, in fact
some of us sit around in sunlight beer gardens like its
our job...wait a minute), the city is surrounded by highly
unique and historical places to enjoy the outdoors and
weve highlighted one of the best in our Salwator feature
on page 8.
While the excitement of the new season is palpable, for us
at IYP its still business as usual: another month, another
milestone, and you poor first time readers will probably
simply peruse this landmark 75
th
issue of Krakw In
Your Pocket not realising that it represents over ten
years of refinement and perfection, resulting in the best
Krakw city guide on the market. Weve outdone ourselves
once again, ensuring that within these pages youll find the
most up-to-date, honest information on all the drinking
holes, dance parties and dining establishments within
this densely-packed city, as well as all of the memorable
things to do and see between indulgences. As always, let
us know what you think about the places youve visited by
leaving your comments on our website
krakow.inyourpocket.com and send us some love at
editor_poland@inyourpocket.com. Enjoy Krakw.
Editorial
Writer/Editor Garrett Van Reed
Research Manager Anna Hojan
Researchers Dorota Konkel, Aneta Roszak,
Maria Rulaff
Events Klaudia Mampe, Vaughan Elliott
Design Tom Haman
Photography In Your Pocket, Rentapocket
Cover Komitet Kopca Kociuszki
Sales & Circulation
Director: Magorzata Drzszcz 606 749 676
Krakw/Katowice/Zakopane
Manager: Monika Szymanek 668 876 351
Warszawa/d
Manager: Marta Ciepy 606 749 643
Wrocaw/Pozna
Manager: Agata Trocha 606 749 642
Gdansk/Bydgoszcz
Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 58 555 98 18
Publisher
WIYP Sp. z o.o.
ul. Paderewskiego 1, 81-831 Sopot
Company office & Accounts
Basia Olszewska
58 555 08 31
krakow@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
Printing CGS
Published 20,000 copies,
6 times per year
Milano Restaurant a bit of Italy in the very heart of Krakow
The secret of Milano Restaurant lies in original olive oil, parmesan
cheese, fresh pasta and seasonal vegetables. Fresh sh and seafood
together with dishes straight from the oven complete the menu,
while a rich offer of nest regional wines of Italy, Spain and France
accompany the cuisine.
Have dinner in Milano Ristorante
and get your Ul lala dessert for free!
ul. w. Jana 1, Tel: (+48) 12 374 13 00, www.milanokrakow.pl
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not accept free meals, sexual favours, first-born children or
other bribes in return for favourable reviews and reserve the
right to say whatever the hell they damn well feel like about
the venues listed in this guide, regardless of disagreement
from advertisers, establishment owners or the general public.
The editor has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of
the information in this guide at the time of going to press and
assumes no responsibility for unforeseen changes, errors,
poor service, disappointing food or terrible hangovers.
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8
Krakw In Your Pocket krakow.inyourpocket.com
SALWATOR
Being that Salwator has always been Krakws most green,
ancient and affluent district, its a bit of a wonder why more
people dont visit. Having done the hard but rewarding work
of researching this seldom written about area, however, were
happy to roll out the red carpet. Certainly the areas main at-
traction is the stunning Kociuszko Mound and surrounding
fortifications, but the scenic ascent to the mound is almost
as pleasant as the earthwork itself and makes a perfect
escape from the sometimes frenetic bustle of the city centre.
Essentially comprising one long, virtually traffic-less, tree-lined
avenue flanked by ancient churches, atmospheric cemeter-
ies and grand villas - which begins at the citys largest sacral
complex and summits atop the citys most magnificent over-
look - Salwator should hold plenty of enchantment for visitors.
What to See
A perfect warm-weather expedition, exploring Salwator
is more of a leisure activity than a sightseeing excursion,
with its appeal lying in strolling shady lanes and taking in
scenic views more than studying historical exhibits (though
theres the chance for that too). Picturesquely perched on
the western fringe of the city-centre, well-removed from the
tourist track, the small district of Salwator officially occupies
St. Bronisawas Hill in the district of Zwierzyniec, which rises
above the Old Town between the Wisa River and the Rudawa
- one of its tributaries. As such, a journey to Salwator starts
at their confluence and the majestic Norbertine Monastery
(G/H-4) - Krakws largest sacral complex. Consecrated way
back at the end of the 12th century, the Norbertine Sisters
of this immaculate convent were the first female religious
congregation in Poland and once held much sway and influ-
ence over the area. Until as recently as 1910, when Krakws
mayor snatched and incorporated the territory into the city
proper, the Sisters of St. Norbert owned the whole area of
Salwator and surrounding Zwierzyniec. Before that time the
Norbertine complex extended across ul. Kociuszko and, in
addition to the convents Church of St. Augustine and John
the Baptist, also included the two churches found at the foot
of St. Bronislawas Hill (on the street of the same name). On
the left side of ul. w. Bronisawy (G-3) stands the small and
unique Chapel of Saint Margaret, which is included on the
Maopolska Wooden Architecture Route, while on the right is
the hoary Church of the Holy Saviour.
Continue up ul. w. Bronisawy (as it turns into Al. Waszyn-
gtona) about 500 metres on the left and youll arrive at the
Salwator Cemetery - perhaps Krakws most picturesque
necropolis. However, as youre en route, dont miss taking
a quick look at the villas on ul. Gontyna (G-3) - a small
looping alley off the main lane. Though the name Salwator
has more recently been applied to much of the surrounding
district of Zwierzyniec (for marketing reasons), it originally
referred strictly to this small Garden City of 30 villas built
to much hullaballoo after a 1910 design competition. One
of Krakws most exclusive residential streets, ul. Gondyna
has been home to many local luminaries and celebrities, and
its villas are also no stranger to architecture textbooks. The
highlight of the bunch (for us at least) is the manor on the
right-hand crescent with a large bust of wild-haired Medusa
on the facade. Perhaps those penetrating eyes are the same
that filled Salwator Cemetery (G-3) with an unusually great
number of statues and stone effigies.
Continue up this avenue lined with ancient trees to where
it bears right and youre at the foot of Kociuszko Mound
(F-3), one of Krakws most unique attractions. In addition to
panoramic views of the Old Town to the east and Wolski Forest
to the west, you could easily spend hours exploring the exhibits
tucked inside the 19th century fortifications surrounding it.
Norbertine Monastery G/H-4, ul. Kociuszki 88, tel.
(+48) 12 427 13 18, www.norbertanki.w.krakow.pl.
Founded by the once-powerful Premonstratensian Sisters
of Saint Norberts in 1148, this forti fied monastery has
been destroyed and rebuilt several times throughout the
centuries, seemingly irresistible to the marauding Tartar
hordes whose proficiency at razing architectural marvels
has been well noted by history. The structures seen today
within the monasterys many courtyards and high, crenulated
walls were rebuilt at the turn of the 17th century and the
interiors date to the 18th century. The baroque Church of
St. Augustine and John the Baptist (open during mass
only) can be entered through the 13th century Romanesque
portal beneath the tower or through the outer courtyard.
There have been two sisters canonised from the Cracovian
order of Norbertine Sisters, Saint Emilia Podoska and Saint
Bronisawa - renowned for her righteousness. Some of
Krakws most important traditions are also connected with
the monastery: here and along the banks of the Rudawa the
Emmaus festival has been celebrated every year since the
12th century on the Monday after Easter (April 9th, 2012). It is
also from here that the Lajkonik procession - the foremost
symbol of Krakw - sets off each year in June, due no doubt
to the convents magnetism towards Tartars.
Chapel of St. Margaret (Kaplica w. Magorzaty)
G-3, ul. w. Bronisawy 8, tel. (+48) 12 424 43 60,
www.parafiasalwator.pl. This unique octagonal chapel is
one of only three wooden temples left in Krakw. Originally
built as a cemetery chapel, throughout its long history it was
burned many times (wonder how that happened?) with its
present structure having been built in 1690. In ironic, yet
typical, contrast to the pre-Slavic pagan god of the wind
named Powist who once stood at this site, today youll
find a statue of Pope John Paul II erected in 2008. The
baroque 17th century altar within the charming chapel was
borrowed from the Church of the Holy Saviour just across
the street (G-3). Q Open during mass only. No masses in
April. In May mass is held on the first and third Sundays
of the month only.
Lying just west of the Old Town, Salwator is about a
twenty-five minute walk from the main market square
and can be easily accessed by taking trams 1, 2 or
6 to their terminus at the Salwator roundabout (H-3).
Alternatively, surefooted or cycling sightseers can follow
the recreational path along the Wisa River from Wawel
Castle to the Norbertine Monastery, where it ends at the
Rudawa tributary. Bear in mind that the path up Saint
Bronisawas Hill to Kociuszko Mound is a slight grade
1.6 kilometres in length and may be uncomfortable for
anyone awaiting a hip replacement. It is possible to drive
to the foot of the mound, but making the journey on foot
or by bike is certainly the recommended method for
those with fine weather who are feeling up to the task.
Getting There
10
SALWATOR
Kociuszko Mound (Kopiec Kociuszki) F- 3,
Al. Waszyngtona 1, tel. (+48) 12 425 11 09, www.
kopi eckosci uszki .pl . Hi stor y produces few men
l i ke Tadeusz Koci uszko (1746-1817). Havi ng fought
wi th distinction in the Ameri can War of Independence
before i nspi ri ng a valiant I nsurrecti on agai nst forei gn
rul e i n Pol and, thi s rel entl ess freedom- fi ghter was
descri bed by Thomas Jef ferson as the pure a son
of l i berty that I have ever known. Upon hi s passi ng
Pol i sh authori ti es demanded hi s body be sent from
Swi tzerland to be interred in the Wawel Royal Crypts.
Such was the countr ys l ove of Koci uszko that the
peopl e proposed to honour hi m wi th a monument i n
the tradi ti on of the prehi stori c mounds of Ki ng Krak
and Wanda - and to make i t the grandest i n Krakw.
With the approval of the Norbertine Sisters who granted
the land, city authorities began developing an arti ficial
burial mound to be constructed atop Bronisawa Hill in
Zwierzyniec. When construction began there was no lack
of pomp and ceremony. First mass was held, followed
by speeches; documents, heirlooms and artefacts from
Kociuszkos illustrious li fe were placed - as well as soil
from his many battlefields, including those in America -
before friends, statesmen and foreign dignitaries dumped
the first wheelbarrows of dirt. For the next three years
people of all ages from all over Poland brought soil from
their homes and villages to add to the mound. Though a
committee was formed for its oversight, the work was all
done voluntarily. Officially completed in November 1823,
Kociuszko Mound stands 34 metres high, 326 metres
above sea level. A boulder from the Tatra Mountains, which
on a clear day can be seen on the horizon from the top
of the mound, was placed at the top with the inscription,
Kociuszce (To Kociuszko).
In the 1850s the occupying Austrian military authorities
took over the territory of Zwierzyniec and went to building
a brick fortress encircling the Mound with intent to use
the location as a strategic lookout point. Demolishing
a chapel of St. Bronisawa at the site, the Austrians, in
their gentility, built a new chapel, incorporating it into the
stronghold. Quite contrarily, the Germans later threatened
to demolish the Mound and surrounding forti fications dur-
ing their WWII occupation as they set about destroying
all Polish monuments and national symbols (along with
3 million Polish Jews). Though parts of the fortress were
destroyed, the Mound survived the war better than the
countrys population, 16% of which were casual ties of
Nazi and Soviet bloodshed. Today the fortress has been
rebuil t and signi ficant engineering improvements have
been made to the Mound to ensure its longevity, including
a vital drainage system.
Climbing to the peak is exhausting work, but the pan-
oramic views of Krakw are a worthwhil e reward. The
neo-Gothic Chapel of St. Bronisawa, which contains a
medley of objects connected to Kociuszkos li fe, can also
be visited and the surrounding forti fications also house
two cafes, a radio station, restaurant, wax museum and
five additional historical exhibitions. Admission is included
with the mound to all exhibits and the hours are also the
same, except for two exhibits: Cracovian Mounds, and
Kociuszko - The First Chapter (open 09:30 - 18:00;
from May 09:30 - 19:00). Q Open daily 09:30 to sunset.
Admission 11/9z.
As with most ancient Cracovian landmarks, there are
a fair few legends associated with the Norbertine Mon-
astery (G/H-4, ul. Kociuszki 88). The first is to do with
Saint Bronisawa herself, who after being visited by the
Holy Spirit and warned of an impending Tartar attack
(which back in those days was a bit like having the Lord
tell you that the sun was going to come up tomorrow),
managed to rally the Sisters to safety in the adjacent
hills which now bear her name. The monastery was of
course destroyed and Saint Bronisawa spent the rest
of her days mending the spirits of those sceptical of a
God that would send Tartars to burn their homes every
damn weekend. She died in 1259.
Another legend regards the Norbertine Cathedral bell
and its mournful, murky tone. Story goes that between
attacks by the Tartar hordes, a punishing storm struck
the area destroying a nearby ferry crossing. As the
Good Sisters lay dreaming of the swift new boat they
would soon put in the water, they were awoken by the
Tartar alarm (something like a cat being strangled) to
witness all the merchants of Zwierzyniec hastening to
the ferry crossing to escape the mounted brutes hot on
their heels. Finding no such ferry all the merchants were
skewered or drowned in the Wisa River, except for one
who could swim apparently. To honour his extinct people,
the lonely merchant commissioned a bell for the tower
of the Sisters ravaged monastery. After several failed
attempts to cast the bell, the bell-maker took his own life
ashamed of the crack that kept appearing on its surface.
Sans bell-maker, the Sisters accepted the flawed bell
interpreting it as a symbol of the fractured lives of those
it was meant to remember. Once erected atop the chapel
tower, the Tartars swiftly arrived to toss the bell into the
river (those jerks!). Legend claims that each year on St.
Johns Night (June 23rd) the sunken, beleaguered bell can
be heard tolling its Tartar-cursing chime until midnight
when the clock on the Market Square sounds.
Norbertine Legends
Church of the Holy Saviour
(Koci Najwitszego Sal-
watora) G-3, ul. w. Bronisawy
9, www.paraf iasalwator.pl.
One of Krakws oldest and most
modestly beautiful churches, the
Church of the Holy Savior stands
atop a former early Slavic temple. In
fact, archaeologists have dated this
site as far back as the 10th century
and some have even posited that it
may be the first Catholic site in all
of Poland. First mentioned in writing
back in 1148, you might be familiar with its history since then:
burned, rebuilt, burned, rebuilt, burned, rebuilt in the 17th century
as you see it today. The age of the site can be most felt in the
interior which includes precious frescoes from the early 16th
century. Surrounding the church is a small, scenic cemetery,
including a wall-tomb for the Sisters who maintained it and an
old gravediggers cottage. Q Open during mass only.
Salwator Cemetery (Cmentarz Salwatorski) G-3,
Al. Waszyngtona 1. This intimate, hill-side graveyard was
ordained in 1865 and offers fantastic views of the Wisa.
Perhaps the sanctuarys most famous daisy-pusher is one
of its most recent tenants - popular sci-fi author Stanisaw
Lem, put to earth here in 2006. Q Open from 07:00 till dusk.
12
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
13
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
April - May 2012 krakow.inyourpocket.com
By Train
Krakws main railway station, Dworzec Gwny, is conveniently
situated at the northern edge of the Old Town, making taxis and
trams largely unnecessary for those with accommodation in
the Old Town. Not so convenient are the ongoing renovation
works - part of a plan to turn it into a modern transportation
hub that should be fully functional sometime in the fall of 2012.
With various train platforms closing to undergo renovations
and one of the underground tunnels currently closed, travellers
should anticipate some confusion and inconvenience until all the
work is finished. Upon disembarking your train, youll be herded
underground into a newly modernised tunnel, which slyly leads
straight into the neighbouring Galeria Krakowska shopping
mall; head up the stairs to avoid getting lost in the mall. With no
facilities available in the tunnel, head down the path alongside
the tracks to the main hall where youll find an ATM (bankomat),
currency exchange booth (kantor), and left luggage lockers
(make sure you have change for those).
Stepping out onto the square in front of the train stations
main hall youll see Galeria Krakowska to your right, a bus
and tram stop on the left side of the square and straight
across youll find a taxi rank. It is only about a six minute walk
to Rynek Gwny (the market square) from the train station,
arguably the dreamiest entrance into any city in Europe and
highly recommended for anyone who has just arrived. Cross-
ing the plaza in front of the train station to the Andels Hotel
and following the crowds through the underpass to the other
side puts you officially in the Old Town, home to the majority
of Krakws hostels, hotels and nightlife; bear right, make a
left on Floriaska Street and youre on the path of kings to
the market square. Youve arrived.
Now how to escape: Station departure boards (odjazdy) are
indicated by their yellow timetables; arrivals boards (przy-
jazdy) are the white ones. Trains run from Krakw Gwny to
most major Polish cities, with almost hourly trains to Warsaw
between 06:00 and 20:00. To check the times visit the Polish
railways website at rozklad.pkp.pl which has limited but ef-
fective English language functionality. Tickets for internal trips
can be purchased at any counter in the main station hall, and
can even be bought in advance. Indeed, if you want a seat on
a particular train it is best to book ahead. International tickets
are bought at Kasa Zagraniczna windows 9 and 10. If in a
rush, tickets can also be bought on board the train from the
conductor, but expect a surcharge. Note that tickets for the
shuttle service to Krakw Balice airport, which runs every
30 minutes, can be purchased from machines on platform
1, or on-board the train for no extra fee.
The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run several types of
train. Express InterCity (EIC) trains are the fastest, newest and
most expensive of the lot, with first and second class compart-
ments holding up to six people and seat reservations required.
The Express (EX) trains are less modern than the EIC but still
pricey, and also requires seat reservations. The EuroCity (EC)
trains offer international connections and seat reservations
as well. Cheapskates looking to cut costs should opt for the
markedly cheaper Twoje Linie Kolejowe (TLK), which have
second class seats that require no seat reservation and first
class seats that do; InterREGIO (IR), which are the cheapest
and have second class seats that require reservation; and
REGIOekspres (RE), which have online seat reservations. With
these budget options you will pay almost nothing, but the jour-
ney will take longer and is guaranteed to try your good humour.
Travellers on overnight trains no longer have the concerns of
yesteryear but should still mind their belongings. Also note that
delays are more common at the moment due the nationwide
rail modernisation program underway.
An 9z toll is paid when you enter and again when you exit
the motorway. Still, its one of the best stretches of road
in the country until the bottleneck begins outside Krakw
near Wieliczka. Driving around the city is incredibly frustrat-
ing with constant roadwork being done, one-way streets
and seemingly available streets requiring a permit to drive
down: violate this rule and the chances of getting a fine are
incredibly high, whether youve realized your infraction or not.
Krakws road network is not at all adequate for the volume
of cars on its roads and parking is yet another challenge.
To say nothing of horse-drawn carriages full of tourists and
trams, the lack of bicycle paths in the city centre also means
sharing the street with unwieldy bicycles above the laws of
the road, and the fact that theyre getting from point A to B
twice as fast as you is yet another smack in the face. Put it all
together and we recommend you ditch your vehicle in favour
of public transportation at the first opportunity. Car crime is
not unheard of and youll be safest leaving your ride in one
of the guarded parking lots listed below. Street parking is
available under the large parking signs on the sidewalk and
youll have to buy a pass from the neon-bibbed warden patrol-
ling the area, though parking machines have now replaced
them in many areas. The cost of street parking is 3z for the
first hour, 3.50z for the second, 4.10 for the third, and after
that back to 3z. Areas where parking is available are also
marked on the map in the back of this guide.
Guarded Parking J-1, ul. Kamienna 2-4 (entrance from
Al. Sowackiego), tel. (+48) 12 633 69 81.
Guarded Parking A-5, ul. Powile 1 (Sheraton Krakw
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 662 10 00.
By Plane
Some 17km west of the city centre, John Paul II Krakw Balice
Airport (Port lotniczy w Krakowie Balicach imienia Jana Pawa
II) is small, modern and easy to navigate, though amenities
are limited. Here youll find a 24hr currency exchange and
a clutch of ATMs (bankomat), as well as a helpful tourist
information point and 24hr left luggage office (9z).
The best way to get to and from the airport is by train. From
the airport, a free bus directly outside both the international
and domestic terminals takes passengers the short distance
to the train-stop and can also be used for travelling between
the two terminals. Train tickets are purchased from the
conductor on board the train, and cost 10z. If leaving from
Krakw Gowny train station, departures (odjazdy) to Balice
Airport are frequent from Track 1; buy your ticket from ma-
chines on the platform or on board for no extra fee. Trains
from the airport run frequently between 05:00 and 23:00.
After that there youre left with night bus 902 which departs
at 23:26, 00:56 and 02:26; and then youre down to taxis.
Taxis stand outside the main entrance to the airport and should
charge between 55-75z to make the journey into the city centre.
Note that the price goes up by 50% between 22:00 and 06:00.
City Tourist Information ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1
(Balice Airport), tel. (+48) 12 285 53 41, www.infokra-
kow.pl. The official city tourist office. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
John Paul II Krakow Balice International Airport
(Port Lotniczy Krakw Balice im. Jana Pawa II)
ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, tel. (+48) 12 295 58 00,
www.krakowairport.pl.
Krakow Shuttle K-4, ul. Zabocie 25/5, tel. (+48) 510
56 00 00, www.krakowshuttle.com. Good value Krakw
and Katowice airport transfers, as well as tours of hard to
reach sights in and outside the city (Wieliczka, Auschwitz).
QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:30 - 16:00.
By Bus
International buses arrive and depart from the bus terminal
(Dworzec Autobusowy, ul. Bosacka 18, E-1) behind the train
station. Here youll find a bar, restaurant, exchange bureau
(kantor), ATM (bankomat) and information point (open 09:00-
17:45). Lockers for left luggage cost 6-12z (depending on
size) for 24 hours, however are unavailable when the main hall
is closed between 23:00 and 05:00. During this time there is
a waiting room situated in the nearby tunnel. Tunnels connect
the bus and train stations. Still the best way to get into town,
with or without getting lost, is to make a right from the bus
station into the train station, walk past the platforms and
follow the ascendant ramp back into daylight. Cut through
the main ticket hall of the train station, cross the square in
front of Galeria Krakowska and take the underpass into the
Planty. Congrats, youre in the Old Town.
Bus is your best option for travel to Zakopane and the Tatra
Mountains, with frequent departures for the two hour journey.
These are proper coaches and leave from the upper level
with tickets available from the ticket office inside the bus
station. For exact travel times check www.rda.krakow.
pl which is now in English. Bus is also your best option for
getting to Wieliczka and Auschwitz (Owicim), and we give
more detailed information on how to do so in their respective
sightseeing sections (see Further Afield).
Krakw Bus Station (Dworzec autobusowy) E-1,
ul. Bosacka 18, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 40, www.rda.
krakow.pl. Q Ticket Office open 06:00 - 21:00. From April
9 open 07:00 - 19:45.
By Car
Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road fatalities,
a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road
surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic
and, most of all, frustrated and aggressive driver behaviour
result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the
country. While the road quality issue is being addressed with
EU directives and funding, the size of the countrys road net-
work means that it will still be years before results are seen
in many places. Almost all roads outside of urban areas are
a single lane in each direction, meaning traffic is inevitably
bogged down by the fleet of lorries that traverse Poland as
well as the routine family in a horse-cart. This results in im-
patient drivers overtaking each other at high speed and then
braking sharply to avoid oncoming traffic. Be cautious and
keep a safe distance between you and the vehicle in front.
The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities
(60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban
areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on
motorways. All cars must have their headlights switched on at
all times and carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replace-
ment bulbs, a national identity sticker and proper registration
and insurance documents. Poland also has strict drunk-driving
laws: 0.2 is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget
about having even a single beer. EU citizens may use their home
driving licenses as long as they are valid, however citizens of
countries that didnt ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk
Australia and America) will find their licenses invalid (though that
hasnt stopped anyone we know from driving their girlfriends
car). Carry your license and passport at all times when driving.
With that out of the way, how to get here? For the time be-
ing theres only one major highway leading into Krakow via
Katowice, the A4, and its smooth asphalt doesnt come free.
Mai n Trai n Stati on
(Dwor zec G wny)
E-1, Pl. Jana Nowaka -
Jezi oraski ego 3, tel.
(+48) 42 20 55 007,
www. r ozkl ad. pkp. pl .
The work of architect Peter
Rosenbaum - who woul d
go on to design Wrocaws
station ten years later - the
main hall was built between 1844 and 1846, with neo-
renaissance decorations like turrets and crenulations
whimsically added to the exterior. Over the following
decades it would be extensively re-modelled, with bits
and pieces knocked down and added at the drop of a
hat. A bridge over ul. Lubicz designed by Teodor Talowski
was built in 1898, and a spate of tunnels and platforms
were added in the immediate years before and after. In
spite of extensive modernisation in the 1920s - which
included the creation of a water tower, printing house
and residential estate for railway workers - plans were
drawn up in 1934 to relocate the train station - albeit
by only 300 metres.
Under Nazi occupation the future of the station again fell
under threat, with plans to build a new one in the govern-
ment quarter located across the river in Dbniki. Even
after the Nazis were vanquished the train station could
not breathe easy; in keeping with the decentralisation
policy of communist planning, sketches were drawn up
to build a primary station next to Rondo Mogilska, an
area that the authorities wanted to develop in a bid to
outshine the decadent Old Town. Fortunately cash is
king and the commies had run out of it; the only sign
of their grandiose plan today is the half finished NOT
building, lovingly referred to by locals as Skeletor. The
years since the Soviet-era ended have hardly granted
Krakws train station any peace either, however the
changes have largely been met positively as the area
received a thorough clean-up after years of neglect, and
a new plaza next to the Galeria Krakowska shopping
mall now represent Krakows main gateway into the city.
Presently the Polish rail network is undergoing some
much needed investment nationwide, and while track
improvements are ongoing (and delay inducing), there is
now a massive station modernisation program underway
which will see 40 stations either modernised or entirely
rebuilt at a cost of 980 million zoty over 5 years. Krakw
Gwny is one of three projects receiving financing from
the EU and the 63 million PLN investment will see a brand
new transport hub created. Incorporating an underground
station in the general area of the current platforms the
new station will connect trains, buses, airport shuttles
and local tram services under one roof. A new 12,000m2
ticket hall will be created as well as new waiting areas, a
cafe, restaurants and passenger service points such as
tourist information. Fully accessible to the disabled and
with a hi-tech monitoring system, the project is pencilled in
for completion by summer 2012, but a recent announce-
ment has admitted that goal will not be met. Lovers of the
old train station need not fret. The local government is in
talks to take over the classic Rosenbaum building from the
train company and convert it into a gallery. Q Open 24hrs.
Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations
cannot be made from 00:00 to 01:30.
Krakw Train Station
www.pkp.pl
14
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
15
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Car Rental
All you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid
foreign license or international driving permit. [Be aware,
however, that citizens from countries that didnt ratify the
Vienna Convention (America, Australia) cannot legally drive
on their licenses and run the risk of hassle from the police.]
Enjoy cruising the EU, but dont try leaving it in a rental car;
ie Ukraine is off-limits (sad face).
Acecar C-3, ul. Bracka 8/1a, tel. (+48) 508 13 36
51, www.acecar.pl. Large selection of cars. Competitive
prices. Insurance and unlimited mileage included in rental
price. Friendly, reliable service. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Sat,
Sun open on request.
Dragon-VIP J-4, ul. Rejtana 7, tel. (+48) 509 58 88 60,
www.dragonvip.pl. A wide choice of vehicles from small cars
like the Peugeot 207, through mid-size like the Peugeot 308 to
more exclusive vehicles. It is also possible to hire a car with a
driver. Delivery and collection of cars in Krakw is free. GPS is also
available free of charge with some cars. Q Open 09:00-18:00,
Sat 08:00-14:00. Outside of these hours on request.
Hertz H-3, Al. Focha 1, tel. (+48) 12 429 62 62, www.
hertz.com.pl. Also at Balice Airport, tel. 12 285 50 84.
QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 8 - 12. Closed Sun.
Sixt ul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 12
639 32 16, www.sixt.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
Eu r o p ca r J - 4, u l .
Nadwilaska 6 (Qubus
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 374
56 96, www.europcar.pl. Offering both short and
long term rental options with 9 different categories of
car available for your individual needs. Excellence in
service with benefits tailored to your specific require-
ments. Europcar is present at all Polish airports including
Krakw-Balice, tel. 12 257 79 00. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. Outside of these hours open on request.
J o k a D - 2 , u l .
Zaci s z e 7 (3r d
floor, room 7), tel.
(+48) 601 54 53
68, www.joka.com.pl. A wi de range of cars includ-
ing Opel Astra 3, BMW, Subarus up to the spacious
Mercedes E220 CDi stati on wagon. Al l cars are
equipped wi th power steering. Satelli te navi gati on
systems are also availabl e. Special rates of fered to
those who order through the Joka websi te. Q Open
09: 00-17: 00, Sat 09: 00-12: 00. Outsi de of these
hours on request.
While Krakow has no underground metro system it does
have an integrated bus and tram system which runs from
05:00-23:00, with night buses continuing after that.
Get tickets from the handy ticket machines at major
tram stops or on-board most trams, or from the driver
immediately on boarding if there is no ticket machine.
A 15 minute ticket is available costing 2z. By our es-
timation, this is about the time it should take to go 5
or 6 stops, though its hard to know with heavy traffic
sometimes clogging up the tram lanes. I f going more
than 5 stops we recommend you purchase a 30min
ticket. Sadly, prices are set to rise on April 16th
with 30min tickets going from 2.80z to 3.20z,
and 1-hour tickets rising from 3.60z to 4z. 24-hour,
48-hour, 72-hour, and unlimited weekend family passes
for 12.00z are also options, or consider the Krakw
Tourist Card (see Basics), which includes unlimited
free travel on trams and buses amongst its benefits.
Note that ISIC or other non-Polish student ID is valid
for transport ticket discounts, but you must carry your
ID and be under 26.
Most importantly, you must stamp your ticket immedi-
ately on boarding the tram or bus in the small machines
on-board, even if you bought your ticket on-board. Be-
ware that inspectors regularly travel on the lines handing
out fines to those without valid or proper tickets.
MPK (Krakow City Transport) ul. w. Wawrzyca
13, tel. (+48) 12 191 50, www.mpk.krakow.pl.
Public Transport
Not the dodgy enterprise i t once was, most taxis
are reliable and use their metres without any fiddling
around, but beware of the cowboys sometimes waiting
outside the train station and some clubs. Make sure
you choose a clearly marked cab with a company name
and phone number displayed and a sticker demarcat-
ing prices in the window. Taxis are now legally obliged
to give you a printed receipt at journeys end further
limiting the likelihood of any funny business. There
is a taxi rank across the square from the main train
station on ul. Pawia (D-2) or walk up the stairs from
the platforms to find reliabl e Radio Taxi 19191 on
the rooftop parking lot. Expect to pay 7z plus about
2.30z per kilometre. At night expect to pay up to 50%
more for the pleasure. Whether or not to tip your taxi
driver is a bit of a point of contention. Many Poles do
not consider taxis a service that necessitates a tip
and thereby, i f youre Polish, the driver may not expect
one. But double standards being what they are, its
anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which
case 10% is appropriate, or simply rounding up the
bill. We leave it to you.
Barbakan Taxi tel. (+48) 12 196 61,
www.taxi.barbakan.krakow.pl.
Euro Taxi tel. (+48) 12 196 64,
www.eurotaxi.krakow.pl.
Mega Taxi tel. (+48) 12 196 25,
www.megataxi.eu.
Radio Taxi 919 tel. (+48) 12 191 91,
www.radiotaxi919.pl.
Taxis
Avis J-2, ul. Lubicz 23, tel.
(+48) 601 20 07 02, www.
avis.pl. Internationally trust-
ed service offering a range a
vehicles from the Opel Corsa to luxury mini-vans. Located
here near the train station and also at the airport (ul.
Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, open 08:00 - 22:00). Q Open
09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Sun open on request.
9
8
16
BASICS
17
BASICS
Law & Order
In general Krakw is far safer than most Western cities, and
visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they simply employ
common sense. Petty crime does exist, and travellers should
be on guard against pickpockets; if youre in a bar or restaurant
keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not inside a jacket
casually left lying around. Those travelling by car are advised to
use the guarded car parks we list in Arrival & Transport. Perhaps
the biggest danger in Krakw is posed by groups of drunken
football hooligans who can be easily avoided and heard coming
a mile away. Finally, foreign men should be suspicious of young
women who take an overactive interest in them and suggest
going to some dodgy nightclub not in this guide where they stand
the chance of being intimidated into paying for vastly inflated
drink charges by thuggish bouncers; unfortunately, it happens.
Staying on the right side of the law is significantly easier for
tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket
fuel and drink accordingly. If youre determined to make an
idiot of yourself then make sure its not in front of the law.
In recent years wits, from those in Chewbacca costumes
to complete fools whove thought its perfectly acceptable
to drop your trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain,
have tested the patience of the local law enforcement. Their
tolerance threshold is now decidedly low so dont push your
luck. Those who do may well be treated to a trip to Krakws
premier drunk tank (ul. Rozrywka 1, which literally translates
as Entertainment Street), a chastening experience which will
set you back 250z for a 6-24 hour stay. In return for your cash
expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company
of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Those resisting arrest may
well find themselves strapped down to a bed,One Flew Over
The Cuckoos Nest-style. Refreshment comes in the form
of limitless coffee, though the mug sometimes comes with
a smell of urine for a reason. Credit cards are not accepted.
Another easy way for tourists to cross cops is by jaywalk-
ing. If you are from a country which doesnt have or respect
jaywalking laws, youll be surprised to see crowds of people
standing obediently at a crossing waiting for the lights to
change. The reason for obeying this seemingly silly rule is
the fact that the local city police (Stra Miejska) will quite
freely give you a 50-100z fine for crossing a road at a place
where no crossing is marked or a 100z fine when the walk
light is red. And dont think you are exempt by being a foreign
visitor. You are subject to the law too and your non-residency
means you will need to pay the fine on the spot (the helpful
chaps will even accept foreign currency).
Customs
I f you are travel l i ng wi thi n the EU those over 18 can
now take 10 li tres of spiri ts, 90 li tres of wine and 110
li tres of beer. Most countri es will not all ow more than
800 ci garettes from Poland. I f purchasing art or books,
you need to consi der their age and val ue. In order to
l eave the country, art must be ei ther l ess than 50 years
ol d or under a certain value (vari es depending by type;
photos l ess than 6,000z, other art l ess than 14,000z,
for exampl e); i f one of these condi tions is met, the gal -
l ery curator can then provi de you wi th a zawiadczeni e
(permissi on document) descri bing the artworks pri ce
and when and where i t was created. I f the work exceeds
the permi tted age and value, you must get permission
from the Woj ewdzki Konserwator Zabytkw (Regional
Curators Of fi ce) to take i t out of Poland; bear in mind
that thi s process wi l l l i kel y take 2-3 months. Books
must be l ess than 100 years ol d, or under 6,000z in
value in order to l eave the country; i f nei ther appli es,
permission must be obtained from the National Li brary.
Obviousl y, probl ems arise when purchases are made at
bazaars or fl ea markets where vendors cannot provi de
the necessary documents; i f there is any doubt about the
value or age of your purchase, we suggest you visi t an
Antykwariat (antiques dealer - see Shopping) for advice.
Electricity
Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are
round with two round-pin sockets. Therefore i f you are
coming from the US, UK or Ireland you are definitely going
to need a plug converter. The best place to pick these up
is at home though i f you do arrive without a converter try
your luck with your hotel reception; they should be able
to point you to an electrical store i f they cant provide a
converter themselves.
Health & Emergency
In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or
public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for
an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the
police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded
to the relevant department. English speaking assistance
is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic
capabilities of the operator.
Between June 1st and September 30th however, English,
German and Russian speakers have the option of using
a separate line speci fi call y desi gned for forei gners in
distress: dial 800 200 300 from a land-line or 608 599
999 from a mobile phone for troubles during high-tourist
season.
I f youve woken up to find youve got a raging headache,
a swoll en foot you can t put wei ght on and vague memo-
ri es of some kind of calami ty, we suggest you sort i t out
by calling a private clinic, thus avoi ding the hassl e of
the notoriousl y l ong queues in Polish hospi tals; a list of
pri vate clini cs can be found in the Directory in the back
of this guide. Further help can be provided by embassies
and consulates, a list of whi ch can also be found in the
Directory. I f i ts a financial emergency your hopes will
rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks
and many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out
such transactions, j ust keep an eye out for the Western
Uni on l ogo.
Internet
Internet access is typically free and widely available in
Poland, with practically every caf and restaurant offering
wi-fi to customers with laptops and smartphones. Getting
on the network often requires nothing more than a pass-
word, which you can request of your favourite bartender or
barista with a simple, Poprosz o haso do internetu? I f
you dont have your own gadgets we offer a few Internet
cafe options below.
Czarny Florian D-6, ul. Podbrzezie 2, tel. (+48) 12 397
80 45, www.czarnyflorian.pl. Seven PCs complete with
everything you need to keep in touch. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Nandu B-3, ul. Wilna 4, tel. (+48) 510 85 60 03, www.
nandu.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. 5z
for first hour, 4z per hour thereafter. Printing and cd-burning
available.
Territory
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers
and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders
the Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely
Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany
(467km), Lithuania (103km), the mysterious Russian
exclave of Kaliningrad (210km), Slovakia (539km) and
Ukraine (529km).
Longest River
Krakw is split by the river Vistula (Wisa). At 1,047km
it is Polands longest river, flowing through Warsaw and
into the Bay of Gdask (Zatoka Gdaska).
Highest Point
The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra
Mountains. In comparison Krakws landscape is flat
and the city lies 219m above sea level.
Population (2010)
Poland - 38,200,037
Warsaw - 1,720,398
Krakw - 756,183
d - 737,098
Wrocaw - 632,996
Pozna - 551,627
Gdask - 456,967
Katowice - 306,826
Sopot - 38,141
Local Time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When its 12:00 in Krakw its 6:00 am in New
York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and
19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts
and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.
Facts & Figures
The enterprising tourist should
consider picking up the Krakw
Tourist Card, a superb piece of
plastic that allows you free travel
on trams and buses, day and
night. The best bit is free entry
to over 30 Krakw museums - an impressive savings for
the serious tourist. Two and three day cards are avail-
able, priced at 50z and 65z respectively and they are
valid until midnight on the day indicated on the reverse.
Every venue listed in our guide which accepts the Krakw
Tourist Card has been marked with a Tourist Card symbol.
Available at all tourist information offices, for a full list
of vendors and benefits visit www.krakowcard.com.
Tourist Card
Post
A bureaucratic nightmare buried under paperwork riddled
with illegible stamps and seals, there is no indication that
Polands postal service - Poczta Polska - will be automated
or computerised during our lifetimes. There can be no doubt
that the post office is one of the most frustrating places to be
a foreigner in Poland, as youre guaranteed to not understand a
damn thing happening there. Your best ally is the person in line
next to you; if theres one person in the room who speaks not
a word of English, its the qualified clerk at the service window.
Also, dont expect any signs to feature English translations,
though all paperwork has been mystifyingly translated into
French (and only French). When you get to the head of that
insufferably long queue, dont be surprised to be sent to an-
other or back to the end, paperwork in hand. The declaration
that your nicely wrapped parcel is somehow unacceptable
is another popular reason why you might find yourself ready
to go postal, though there are many others.
If sending something of any monetary or sentimental value,
please, make sure you do so by using priority mail or better;
magic word: Priorytet. Choosing the cheapest overseas option
available will ensure your package is opened before it arrives and
the contents may or may not be removed. Were not exaggerating.
There are many post offices around Krakw, with Poczta
Gowna at the corner of ul. Westerplatte and Wielopole (D-
4) being the largest and most incomprehensible. All post
offices close early on Saturday, if open at all, and all
will be closed Sunday. Good luck, gringo.
Poczta Gwna D-4, ul. Westerplatte 20, tel. (+48)
12 421 03 48, www.poczta-polska.pl. Krakws main
and most central post office. Packages over 2kg can only
be sent from a separate room (Paczki) to the left of the
main entrance. You do not need to take a queue ticket to
buy stamps and if disabled you get a free pass to window
9. QOpen 07:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Toilets
Generally speaking, toilets in Poland come marked with a circle
for women, and a triangle for men. Although the habit is gradually
dying some restaurants and bars still charge a nominal fee for use
of their facilities - no matter how much cash youve already spent
in the establishment. This is a practice also used in train stations
and most public conveniences. Keep small change handy.
Toilet C-5, Wawel Hill.
Toilet D-6, Pl. Nowy.
Toilet C-3, Rynek Gwny 1 (Cloth Hall, entrance from
ul. w. Jana).
April 8, 2012 Easter Sunday
April 9, 2012 Easter Monday
May 1 Labour Day
May 3 Constitution Day (May 3, 1791)
May 27, 2012 Pentecost Sunday
National Holidays
Pri ces i n Poland are still fai rl y competi ti ve despi te
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices.
Market values as of March 21, 2012
based on 1 = 4.13z
Product Price (z) Price ()
McDonald's Big Mac 9.10 z 2.20
Snickers 1.65 z 0.40
0.5ltr vodka (shop) 19.99 z 4.84
0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.94 z 0.71
0.5ltr beer (bar) 9.00 z 2.18
Loaf of white bread 1.99 z 0.48
Pack of Marlboro cigarettes 11.80 z 2.86
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.82 z 1.41
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 3.20 z 0.77
Market Values
18
CULTURE & EVENTS
19
CULTURE & EVENTS
Concerts
14.04 Saturday
All Musicians are Warriors
ania Nowa Theatre, os. Szkolne 25. This concert gathers what
the Polish music scene as the top representatives of what is known
as Good music. We will hear Voo Voo, Lech Janerka and Mitch &
Mitch. QConcert starts at 19:00. Tickets 70/60z. Available at
www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, C-3, Rynek Gwny 5 (09:00 - 22:00).
30.05 Wednesday
UK
G-2, Klub Studio, ul. Budryka 4, tel. (+48) 12 617 45 45,
www.klubstudio.pl. This band was established in the 70s on
the initiative of John Wetton and Bill Bruford after King Crimson
split. In 1980 the band called it a day, due to traditional musical
differences. However, in 2009, after 30 years, the band reformed,
unfortunately only on stage, not to the recording studio. Expect
to hear compositions of both King Crimson and UK tonight. Q
Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 130/120z. Available at www.
ticketpro.pl and Empik, C-3, Rynek Gwny 5 (Open 09:00 - 22:00).
Exhibitions
15.11 Tuesday - 30.04 Monday
Is War Mens Business?
K-4, Schindlers Factory, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 257 10
17, www.mhk.pl. The title comes from a Winston Churchill quote,
but the subject here is the fate of women in occupied Krakw. Come
and explore the lives of women from all backgrounds, ethnic groups
and faiths and see how the war impacted on their daily life. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00. Closed the first Monday of every
month. Last entrance 90 minutes before closing. Admission 5/4z.
Cinemas
Cinema City J-3, ul. Podgrska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz),
tel. (+48) 12 254 54 00, www.cinema-city.pl.QBox of-
fice open 10:00 - 22:45. Tickets 15-29z.
IMAX Krakw L-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12 290
90 90, www.kinoimax.pl.QBox office open 30 minutes
before the first shotime to 15 minutes after last showtime.
Tickets 17-29z.
Kijw.Centrum H-3, Al. Krasiskiego 34, tel. (+48) 12
433 00 33, www.kijowcentrum.pl.QBox office open 30
minutes before the first showtime until the last showtime.
Tickets 6.45-24z.
Kino Pod Baranami C-3, Rynek Gwny 27, tel. (+48)
12 423 07 68, www.kinopodbaranami.pl.QBox office
open 45 minutes before first showtime to 15 minutes after
last showtime. Tickets 12-22z.
Cultural Centres
British Council C-3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel. (+48) 12
428 59 30, www.britishcouncil.pl.QOpen 08:30 - 19:00,
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Jewish Community Centre (Centrum Spoecznoci
ydowskiej w Krakowie) D-6, ul. Miodowa 24, tel.
(+48) 12 370 57 70, www.jcckrakow.org.QOpen 10:00
- 20:30, Fri 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Galleries
Bunkier Sztuki B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 3a, tel. (+48) 12
422 10 52, www.bunkier.art.pl.QOpen 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10/5z.
International Cultural Centre (Midzynarodowe
Centrum Kultury) C-3, Rynek Gwny 25, tel. (+48) 12
424 28 00, www.mck.krakow.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 8/5z.
Pauza Gallery (Galeria Pauza) C-2, ul. Floriaska
18/5 (3rd floor), tel. (+48) 602 60 06 79, www.galeria-
pauza.pl.QOpen 15:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Opera Stages
Krakw Chamber Opera (Krakowska Opera Kam-
eralna) E-5, ul. Miodowa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 66 06,
www.kok.art.pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun
depending on repertoire. Tickets 40-120z.
Krakw Opera (Opera Krakowska) E-2, ul. Lubicz
48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 62, www.opera.krakow.pl.Q
Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun two hours before the
performance. Tickets 15-120z.
Philharmonic
Krakw Philharmonic (Filharmonia Krakowska)
B-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1, tel. (+48) 12 429 13 45, www.
filharmonia.krakow.pl.QBox office open 11:00 - 14:00,
15:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun one hour before performance. Closed
Mon. Tickets 18-40z.
Theatre Stages
Groteska Theatre A-2/3, ul. Skarbowa 2, tel. (+48)
12 633 48 22, www.groteska.pl.QBox office open:
08:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun one hour before
performance. Tickets 14-50z.
Stary Teatr (Narodowy Stary Teatr) C- 3, ul.
Jagielloska 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 40 40, www.stary.
pl.QBox office open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00 and two
hours before the spectacle. Closed Mon. Tickets 15-50z. Y
MAMY TWJ BILET.
N i e z a l e n y S e r w i s M u z y c z n y
31.05 Thursday - 03.06 Sunday
Cracovia Cantans 2012
Event takes place in various location. Check de-
scription for more info., www.krakowchoirfestival.
pl. The rather grand full name here is 3rd International
Krakow Choir Festival - Cracovia Cantans. Definitely the
largest choral event in these parts with 5,000 in atten-
dance as well as 42 choirs involved from as far afield as
Sweden and Singapore and a lot of places in between,
there will also be a competition section with choirs up
against each other in 3 categories;
the jury boasts such luminaries as composer Romuald
Twardowski, Carmen Moreno and Irina Roganova. It all
takes place in venues including Krakw Philharmonic, old
town churches and the music academy. The programme
goes as follows:
31st May, Thursday.
19:00 Light and Choral Concert, St Catherines Church,
ul. Augustiaska 7, D-7.
19:30 Concert at Piarists Church, ul. Pijarska 2, C-2.
1st June, Friday.
15:30 - 17:30 Choral Competition, The church of St
Peter and St Paul, ul. Grodzka 52a, C-4.
19:00 - Light and Choral Concert, St Catherines Church,
ul. Augustiaska 7, D-7.
19:00 - Concert in The church of St Peter and St Paul,
ul. Grodzka 52a, C-4.
19:30 - Concert at Piarist Church, ul. Pijarska 2, C-2.
2nd June, Saturday
10:00 - 20:00 Choral Competition, Karlowicz Music
School, Osiedle Centrum E 2, O-4.
19:00 - Light and Choral Concert, St Catherines Church,
ul. Augustiaska 7, D-7
19:15 - Concert at St Marys of Lourdes Church ul.
Misjonarska 37 (Krowodrza).
19:30 - Concert at Piarist Church, ul. Pijarska 2, C-2
21:00 - Nocturnal Choral Concert, The church of St Peter
and St Paul, ul. Grodzka 52a, C-4
3rd June, Sunday
19:45 - Concert in Piarist Church, ul. Pijarska 2, C-2
Q Admission free.
Cracovia Cantans
20
CULTURE & EVENTS
21
CULTURE & EVENTS
City Tourist Information (Punkt Informacji
Miejskiej) C-3, ul. w. Jana 2, tel. (+48) 12 421 77
87, www.karnet.krakow.pl. Helpful people who can tell
you whats going on and who can sell you tickets as well.
It publishes Karnet (4z), a comprehensive monthly listing
of cultural events in Polish and English, as well as the free
yearly Karnet with an overview of major events in English.
Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. From May open 09:00 - 19:00.
Information & Tickets
03.03 Saturday - 03.06 Sunday
In Pop-Art Circles. Lucjan Mianowski
H-3, National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12
295 55 00, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. One of the most
significant and fascinating Polish graphic artists of the last
50 years, Mianowski was one of the first to experiment with
pop-art.. This exhibition in the Main Building of the National
Museum in Krakow, will cover the whole period and include
around 140 of his works. Mostly coming from the 60s and
70s, the main feature will be his Cathedral, Sunset, Moonlight
Landscape, Steps in the Mist, Nude and Seascape and A
Walk cycles. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10/5z, family ticket 19z, audioguide
5z. Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Festivals
13.04 Friday - 22.04 Sunday
Off Plus Camera 2012
www.offpluscamera.com. This is one of the most im-
portant, certainly loudest, and youngest movie festivals in
Poland and the biggest festival in eastern Europe dedicated
to independent cinema. However, the most important part of
the festival is the Making Way competition where 12 feature
films by young artists compete for the Krakow Film Award of
$100,000, the head of jury will be director Andrzej uawski.
Calling all Brits, there will be a new section of films: BBC
Arena will be presenting new British cinema; documentaries
on art and feature films. Saving the best to last, the big news
is that the star of the show will be the French director Luc
Besson. Q Tickets 15z, festival pass 100z. Available at
www.offcamera.com.pl.
Life Festival Owicim 2012
Owicim, MOSiR Stadium, u. Legionw 15, www.
lifefestival.pl. Owicim, a town about 60km from Krakw,
is associated by most with the Nazi death camp Auschwitz-
Birkenau, but after half a century its a place of peaceful
initiatives and meetings between people of different religions
and nationalities. The programme is still being prepared,
but there will be lots of exhibitions, concerts and movie
marathons. As always the festival will end up with a huge
concert at the Mosir Stadium with a performance from a
world famous star; some gossips say its going to be Peter
Gabriel, but lets wait for final announcement. This the third
edition of the festival has been moved from June to May.
10th Photo Month Festival
www.photomonth.com. An extra special 10th jubilee
edition of the festival this year. Last time round was all
experimental, but this year the organizers have decided
to strap on their boots and get back to their roots, as
the great band once sang. The main part of festival will
comprise exhibitions of world photographic artists while the
Classical and Film Music in St. Peter & Pauls
Church C-4, St. Peter & Pauls Church, ul. Grodzka
54, tel. (+48) 602 63 60 36, www.newculture.
pl. A chance to hear a wonderful series of concerts
in the breathtaking surroundings of St. Peter & Pauls.
At St. Peter & Pauls, the event begins at 20.00 every
Monday, Tuesday and Thursday and one can expect to
hear a mixture of baroque, romance and film music all
performed by the The Orchestra of the City of Cracow.
Q Concerts take place every Mon, Tue, Thu at 20:00.
Tickets 60/40z. Available at City Information Point (ul.
w. Jana 2, C-3, Open 10:00 - 18:00).
Opera & Organ Concerts C-5, St. Giles Church,
ul. Grodzka 65, tel. (+48) 602 63 60 36, www.
newculture.pl. This series of Opera and Organ concerts
includes works by all the greats: Mozart, Handel and Bach
amongst others. The Opera Delights Concerts at St Giles
Church (Grodzka 67, at the foot of The Royal Castle) give
you a true taste of the city as it should be savoured. All
performed by gifted graduates from the Cracow Univer-
sity of Music and soloists from Cracow Opera House
and Philharmonic, this is not only for opera lovers, but
for everyone who likes good music. Q Concerts take
place from May 1 every Wed, Fri, Sat at 19:00. Tickets
60/40z. Available at City Information Point, C-3, ul. w.
Jana 2 (Open 10:00 - 18:00).
Chopin Concerts in the Legendary Wierzynek
C-3, Wierzynek Restaurant, Rynek Gwny 15, tel.
(+48) 602 63 60 36, www.newculture.pl. These spe-
cial events take place in April and May. They are recitals
by gifted members of the Krakw Music Academy, many
of whom are laureates from international piano contests.
The programme is as varied as you like, approaching the
great mans work from a number of perspectives. A must
for all fans. Q Concerts take place every Wed, Fri, Sun at
19:00. Tickets 60/40z. Premium 150z. VIP 200z. Avail-
able at City Information Point, C-3, ul. w. Jana 2 (Open
10:00 - 18:00) as well as at the Wierzynek reception desk.
Cracow Klezmer Music Concerts at the Isaac
Synagogue E-6, Isaac Synagogue, ul. Kupa 18, tel.
(+48) 602 63 60 36, www.newculture.pl. An artistic
attempt to preserve the Jewish heritage of Kazimierz,
these concerts are performed by the Nazzar Trio. Consist-
ing of professional musicians, all graduates of the Cracow
Music University, not only are they skilled at Klezmer and
other Jewish music, they have a modern approach to
chamber music. All taking place at the Isaac Synagogue,
one of the best preserved and largest synagogues in the
country, at present used by Hassidic Chabad Lubavith
Community. Q Concerts take place every Thu and Sun
at 18:00. Tickets 50/30z. Available at City Information
Point, C-3, ul. w. Jana 2 (Open 10:00 - 18:00).
Classical Music Concerts
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Every Thursday,
Sunday
Time: 6. pm
Every Thursday,
Sunday
Time: 6. pm
22
CULTURE & EVENTS
23
CULTURE & EVENTS
01.04 Sunday - 31.05 Thursday
Folk Show
D-2, Jama Michalika, ul. Floriaska 45, tel. (+48)
510 32 29 46, www.cracowconcerts.com. This
famous secessionist cafe is a great place to encounter
Polish folk culture during the 90-minute performances
every Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Enjoy
traditional Polish food while being entertained by a lo-
cal orchestra, folk dancers and the legendary Lajkonik
himself.QEvent starts at 19:00. Tickets 85z. Available
before the event.
Klezmer Music
tel. (+48) 510 32 29 46, www.cracowconcerts.
com. Enjoy Jewish klezmer concerts performed by local
virtuosos every Thursdays evening in Hotel Rubinstein,
E-6, ul. Szeroka 12 - named after the cosmetics queen
who used to live nearby. Located on Kazimierzs most
picturesque street, concerts begin at 19:00 and last an
hour. Other concerts also take take place in the Galicia
Jewish Museum, E-6, ul. Dajwr 18 on every Sunday at
19:00.QConcerts start at 19:00. Tickets 50z. Available
before the concerts.
Chopin Concerts at the Bonerowski Palace
C- 3, Bonerowski Palace, ul. w. Jana 1, tel.
(+48) 510 32 29 46, www.cracowconcerts.
com. Enjoy the music of Polands greatest composer,
Fryderyk Chopi n, as per formed by pianists Wi tol d
Wi l czek, Weroni ka Krwka, Dobrchna Krwka,
Kazuko Tsuj i and others. Come al ong and enj oy a
concert every day in April and May wi th a glass of
wine included in the pri ce. Q Concerts take place
every day at 19:00. Ti ckets 55z. Availabl e at the
reception desk of Bonerowski Palace, open 24hrs,
and before the concert.
Classical, opera, film & tango - The best
concerts in Cracow
C-3, St. Wojciech Church, Rynek Gwny, tel. (+48)
510 32 29 46, www.cracowconcerts.com. The
Royal Chamber Orchestra is made up of outstanding
musicians, many Krakow Academy of Music alumni. St
Adalberts is said to be the oldest church in Krakow and,
thanks to its baroque dome, provides unique acoustics.
Q Concerts take place every day at 19:00. Tickets 65z.
Available before the event.
Cracow Concerts
second section is more avant garde. In Bunkier Sztuki art-
ists will create a joint project and will try to find the answer
to the question of what the social role of photography is.
Come along and see photographic displays in something
called SlideNite and the awards ceremony of the sitcom
competition. In addition there will be numerous meetings,
lectures, panel discussions, workshops, films, readings
and, naturally for such a bash, meetings with the artists
themselves. Q Full schedule available at www.photomonth.
com. Admission free.
Special Events
09.05 Wednesday - 16.05 Wednesday
Cracow University of Economics Juwenalia
J-1, ul. Rakowicka 27, www.juwenaliauek.pl. The
schedul e at the economi cs uni versi ty i s di verse and
quite long compared to other schools. Theres an election
for the nicest student, amateur rock band concerts, a
school run, an open-air film night, extreme sports and
fashion night. It will end up with a final concert starting
at 18:00. You have to pay for entrance, but the prices
havent been announced yet. We will hear Polish stars
Monika Brodka, Juniorstress and the star of ni ght UK
dubsteppers Modestep.
11.05 Friday - 12.05 Saturday
Juwenalia 2012
Polish Aviation Museum, Al. Jana Pawa II 39 (Czyyny).
Juwenalia is a cycle of student events which consists of
concerts, parties organized in May all around Poland; most
of the parties are for free though some require tickets, but in
return you will get a chance to listen to some big stars from
home and abroad. Here there will be two days of concerts;
on the 11th we will get a chance to hear: 230volt, Frontside,
Lipali, Maciej Maleczuk & Psychodancing, Dem and KSU.
On the the 12th theres Grubson, Jelonek, Hey, Illusion, and
Finlands finest Apocalyptica. Q Concerts start at 16:00.
Tickets 60z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik, C-3,
Rynek Gwny 5 (Open 09:00 - 22:00).
18.05 Friday - 19.05 Saturday
9th Night of Museums
www.noc-muzeow.pl. As every year for one night the coun-
trys museums open their doors. Most are for free, and if they
do charge, its a symbolic zloty, but every little helps as the
saying goes. For the occasion they have prepared special
promotions and the museums will try to show themselves
from new perspectives with concerts, lectures, competitions,
performances, city games and more...one event that you
cant miss if you are around.
Sport
22.04 Sunday
XIth Cracovia Marathon
Krakw Bonia, www.cracoviamaraton.pl. The 11th
edition of the Cracovia Marathon will start at 09:30 on Al.
3 Maja (Bonie) near the Wisa Krakw stadium. Last years
winner was Kyeva Cosmas Mutuku in a tidy time of 2:12,20
and this year theres going to be more than 3 000 runners.
You can sign up to start until April 18th on the English ver-
sion of the website. On the day before the main run there
will be a Mini-Marathon for kids under 12 over 4200m and
a Roller-blade marathon. The fee is 25z and this starts at
15:00 over a course once around Bonia. The roller-blading
is over 42000km, with a 50z sign up fee. Start 16:00. Get
those running shoes out - its never too late to start.
11th April
Marcin Wyrostek
14th April
Ania Dbrowska
20th April
9th PKS Festival
L. Stadt, Tymon Tymaski & The Transistors, ki an
www.rotunda.pl
Main Market Square
EVERY DAY 7:00 PM
24
HOTELS
25
HOTELS
comes with sumptuous rooms filled with creature comforts
and bathrooms fitted with Italian marble. A subterranean
pool open to all can be found in the cellars, while perched on
top of the hotel is a recommended albeit seasonal rooftop
bar with views staring onto the main square. The class of
Krakw, its no surprise that the English national football
squad will be headquartering here during Euro 2012. Q53
rooms (8 singles, 34 doubles, 4 suites, 6 apartments,
1 Presidential Suite ). PTJHA6UFLGK
DCW hhhhh
Niebieski Art Hotel & SPA H-3, ul. Flisacka 3, tel.
(+48) 12 297 40 00, www.niebieski.com.pl. A relatively
new five-star hotel and spa on a quiet corner of the Wisa
riverbank, the Niebieski is designed to be environmentally
sustainable and energy efficient, with a harmonious holistic
interior arrangement that extends from the new Vanilla Spa
throughout the entire hotel. The spacious rooms feature wide,
comfortable beds, unique modern furnishings and soothing
colours, and the third floor apartments offer gorgeous views
of the Wisa River and Wawel Castle from their terraces. The
philosophy of well-being also applies to the Vanilla Sky on-site
restaurant which serves light fusion cuisine with only certified
organic ingredients. There is also a 4-star hotel directly next
door owned by the same people if youd rather keep some
of your cash to spend in the spa. Q40 rooms (38 singles,
38 doubles, 2 apartments). PTHA6UFGK
DwW hhhhh
Radisson Blu B- 4, ul. Straszewskiego 17, tel. (+48)
12 618 88 88, www.radissonblu.com. Located next
to the Filharmonia and the Planty, the Radisson is prime
summer location in the heart of Krakow. Few amenities are
spared and you can take advantage of free bike rentals,
breakfast, high-speed internet and even certain suites that
allow smoking. Weekends can be quite busy in the sum-
mertime, so book in advance and take advantage of the
small fitness centre and spa, as well as the various guided
tours that are sponsored by and originate at the Radisson.
Q196 rooms (148 singles, 148 doubles, 19 apartments,
29 Business Class Rooms ). PTJHAR6UFL
GKDwW hhhhh
Sheraton Krakw A-5, ul. Powile 7, tel. (+48) 12
662 10 00, www.sheraton.com/krakow. The choice of
the stars. This is where the Dutch national football team will
set up camp during Euro 2012, though usually its wealthy
tourists and corporate travellers who bustle through the
glass-covered atrium in this sparkling five star venture.
Rooms come decorated wi th chequered scarlet colour
schemes and state-of-the-art amenities. Q232 rooms (224
singles, 224 doubles, 7 suites, 1 Wawel Suite ). PTHA
R6UFLGKDCW hhhhh
The Bonerowski Palace (Paac Bonerowski)
C-3, Rynek Gwny 42/w. Jana 1, tel. (+48) 12 374
13 00, www.palacbonerowski.pl. A masterpiece of a
hotel occupying a historic property dating from the early
16th century - King Jan Sobieski walked these corridors
back in the 17th century. Many of the original details have
been retained and restored, including gothic columns and
medieval masonry and rooms come beauti fully appointed
with voluptuous drapes and elegant furnishings. Features
of note include a sweeping stairwell, chandelier hovering
above, as well as the full range of top-class services.
Best of all rooms come with grandstand views facing the
main square, allowing you to do all your holiday snaps
from the comfort of your room. Q15 rooms (8 singles,
8 doubl es, 7 apartments). PTHA6UFGK
DwW hhhhh
No matter your budget, thanks to Krakws ascent into
elite status as a European destination, there is no lack
of accommodation options in this fabled city. From fancy
5-star affairs to familiar franchises, boutiques to bed and
breakfasts, historic apartments to some 60-odd hostels -
you wont be hard-pressed for a place to stay. With limited
space, we obviously cant list every sleeper in the city in
our print guide, however you can find a comprehensive list
of Krakws myriad accommodation options on both our
website and mobile application.
With the increasing irrelevance of official rack rates these
days due to online booking discounts, special offers and
other price variations, we no longer find it particularly instruc-
tive to list room prices in our guide. Case in point, anyone who
uses the Hotel Calculator function on our website - krakow.
inyourpocket.com - will find a better rate than the official
prices we once printed; as such, we encourage you to do just
that and you can thank us later.
Accommodation is categorised here subjectively based on a
combination of lodging type, location, price and amenities,
and in our print guide we only list those lodgings that we most
recommend to tourists.
Cream of the Crop
Copernicus C-5, ul. Kanonicza 16, tel. (+48) 12
424 34 00, www.hotel.com.pl. Youve chosen well. Few
hotels in Central Europe can match the standard set by
Copernicus, and its a firm favourite of visiting dignitaries,
with former guests including George W. Bush. Tastefully
uncluttered the hotel is decorated with heavy woodwork,
marble, rich fabrics and wall frescoes - some dating from
the 14th century. Enjoy rooftop terrace views of Wawel,
gourmet food or the fitness centre and swimming pool
housed in the medieval cellars. Q29 rooms (4 singles,
17 doubles, 8 suites). PTJHA6UFLGK
DCW hhhhh
Grand C-2, ul. Sawkowska 5/7, tel. (+48) 12 424
08 00, www.grand.pl. Krakws first five-star hotel has
long been established as the citys most luxurious and has
the legendary guest list to prove it. Rooms and private
sui tes wi th ori gi nal mural s, cof fered ceil i ngs, stai ned
gl ass wi ndows, ornamental fi repl aces and ceremoni -
ous service create the imperial ambiance the hotel has
built its reputation on since its 19th century stint as the
Czartoryski Palace, while a business centre and fitness
club add modern conveniences. Q64 rooms (55 singles,
45 doubles, 9 apartments). PTJHAR6UFL
GKD hhhhh
Holiday Inn Krakow City Center D- 4, ul. Wielopole
4, tel. (+48) 12 619 00 00, www.hik.krakow.pl. Noth-
ing short of top-level standards courtesy of the Holiday Inn.
Easy-on-the-eye navy blue colours, staff who fuss over
you and large rooms make this the reliable choice one
expects. For the best price check out their web page which
sports daily special offers. Q154 rooms (114 singles, 114
doubles, 40 suites). PTJHAR6UFLGK
hhhhh
Hotel Stary C-2, ul. Szczepaska 5, tel. (+48) 12 384
08 08, www.hotel.com.pl. A feast of opulence awaits
inside one of Polands top hotels. Gain entry via a huge hard-
wood door that automatically swings open, 007-style. Oc-
cupying a former aristocratic residence many of the original
details have been retained alongside chic touches such as
a glass li ft that zips guests to their rooms. Accommodation
SHERATON KRAKOW HOTEL
ul. Powile 7
31-101 Krakw
t +48 12 662 1000
sheraton.com/krakow
Dreams
come true
Sheraton Krakow Hotel is ideally
located near Wawel Castle, on the
bank of Wisa River with amazing
views to both. It is just a 10-minute
walk from the famous Market Square
at the Old Town.
232 Pccms wilh Sweel Sleeer Bec
3 Peslcurcrls: The live Peslcurcrl,
SomePlace Else with outdoor
Terrace&Garden, Qube Vodka
Bcr&Ccle
Lirk@Sherclcr, Exclusive CluL
Lcurge, Sherclcr Filress wilh
Swimmirg ccl
5 Leelirg Pccms: ccccily u lc
300 delegates
ul. Powile 7
31-101 Krakw
t +48 12 662 1000
sheraton.com/krakow
Dreams
come true
Sheraton Krakow Hotel is ideally
located near Wawel Castle, on the
bank of Wisa River with amazing
views to both. It is just a 10-minute
walk from the famous Market Square
at the Old Town.
232 Pccms wilh Sweel Sleeer Bec
3 Peslcurcrls: The live Peslcurcrl,
SomePlace Else with outdoor
Terrace&Garden, Qube Vodka
Bcr&Ccle
Lirk@Sherclcr, Exclusive CluL
Lcurge, Sherclcr Filress wilh
Swimmirg ccl
5 Leelirg Pccms: ccccily u lc
300 delegates
26
HOTELS
27
HOTELS
more classic design, so its worth selecting exactly where
youll sleep before you get your card out. On hand are also
a bar, restaurant, conference facilities and one of the only
hotel parking lots in the Old Town. Q91 rooms (91 singles,
89 doubles, 19 triples). PTHARUGKW hhh
Francuski C-2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 12 627 37 77,
www.hotel-francuski.com. After being recently purchased
by famous restaurateur and TV personality Adam Gessler,
the Francuski has undergone minor renovations to the inte-
rior that have it looking better than ever. Here gold-braided
doormen and porters go about their business as the ground
floor Gessler restaurant stays packed around the clock. A
grand effort that oozes interwar elegance in a surprisingly
quiet location right near the Czartoryski Museum, Francuski
squeezes classic furniture into the rather tight quarters. Beds
are large and all rooms feature minibars, internet access and
trouser press. Best of all, breakfast and supper come included
in the price of your stay. Q42 rooms (4 singles, 23 doubles,
15 apartments). PTJHAR6FGKW hhhh
Galaxy K-3, ul. Gsia 22a, tel. (+48) 12 342 81 00,
www.galaxyhotel.pl. Officially opened in September 2011,
this enormous, modern hotel on the banks of the Vistula
River offers a variety of rooms, including some specifically
designed for families and others for those with disabilities.
Oddly, the price of a standard room includes access to the
adjoining spas indoor swimming pool, fitness club and hot
tub free of charge, but wifi access is an additional 5 Euros a
day. As youll note from the stylish map in the centre of the
lobby, their location is well-placed for a walking-distance
journey across the river to Schindlers Factory and the
neighbouring Museum of Contemporary Art, and generally
more ideal for exploring Podgrze and Kazimierz than the Old
Town. Q205 rooms (200 singles, 200 doubles, 50 triples, 5
suites). PTHAR6UFGKDCwW hhhh
Hilton Garden Inn Krakw I-4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej
33, tel. (+48) 12 399 90 00, www.hgi.com. This new-
est luxury hotel on the banks of the Wisa has more to offer
than just spectacular views of the river and Wawel. The first
Hilton Garden Inn to open in Poland, the brand is designed
to tame the tension of demanding businesspeople. Rooms
come with large workspaces, a separate living area with a
pull-out sofa, ergonomic chairs designed to relax your back
and fully-adjustable beds. Arguably the most comfortable
hotel room youve ever stayed in, a 24-hour business centre,
fitness centre, conference facilities, bar and 2 restaurants
are also on hand. Q154 rooms (147 singles, 147 doubles,
7 apartments). PTHARUFGKW hhhh
Hotel Unicus C-2, ul. w. Marka 20, tel. (+48) 12 433
71 11, www.hotelunicus.pl. Nice choice. Located a short
walk from the train station and right on a corner of the royal
route its difficult to feel like youre staying anywhere other
than the heart of the city. Modern convenience in an elegant
old building, the dapper rooms include everything youd expect
from a new upmarket hotel and guests can enjoy the use of a
fitness room and sauna, as well as conference facilities and
a stylish restaurant with a lauded chef (Rafa Targosz) calling
shots behind the scenes. Q35 rooms (35 singles, 23 doubles,
1 apartment). PTHARFLGKDW hhhh
Matejko D-1, Pl. Matejki 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 47
37, www.matejkohotel.pl. A grand effort inside a fully
restored tenement building near the Barbican. Swish, spa-
cious rooms come with rich colours and modern trappings
offering a fine balance between past and present: wifi and
satellite TV in each and the doubles even come with proper
beds. The restaurant is full of stained glass, theres a beer
garden in summer and a full set of business facilities to
boot. Q48 rooms (45 singles, 42 doubles, 3 apartments).
PTHAR6UGKDW hhh
Novotel Krakw Bronowice F-2, ul. Armii Krajowej 11,
tel. (+48) 12 622 64 00, www.accorhotels.com. Not the
best location around, nor does it look like Prince Charmings
palace from the outside, however this big functional box hotel
has undergone major renovations to make it more comfortable
than ever. The rooms have changed little as they were already
some of the largest in town and would seem even more spacious
if the beds werent so big; with over 300 of them, this is still one
of Krakws larger hotels, and as such primed for large confer-
ences and tour groups casting a glance at the higher end of the
hotel market. The restaurant has expanded and the lobby has
been turned into a lounge with books and the daily foreign press
to peruse. Start the day with a few lengths in the swimming pool,
and finish it with late night cocktails in their bar. You can also rent
a bike from reception. Q305 rooms (304 singles, 304 doubles,
1 apartment). PTHAR6UGKDCW hhhh
Novotel Krakw Centrum H-3, ul. Kociuszki 5, tel.
(+48) 12 299 29 00, www.novotel.com. Decorated with
pastel colours the Novotel Centrum offers all the comforts
youd associate with a big brand name. The hotel includes air-
conditioning from top-to-bottom, sauna, one of Krakws few
hotel pools and facilities fully geared towards the disabled.
The upper floors feature views overlooking Wawel Castle.
Q198 rooms (192 singles, 192 doubles, 6 apartments).
PTHAR6UFGKDCwW hhhh
Pod R (Under the Rose) C-3, ul. Floriaska 14,
tel. (+48) 12 424 33 00, www.hotel.com.pl. A beautifully
restored historic hotel, and formerly the stamping ground of
Tsar Aleksander I and Franz Liszt. Recent renovations have
done nothing to disturb the character and rooms come
with state-of-the-art facilities, Persian rugs and important
looking antiques. Reputed to be the oldest hotel in Krakw,
the Latin inscription above Pod Ras Renaissance door-
way reads May this building stand until an ant drinks
the ocean, and a tortoise circles the earth. So far, so
good. Q57 rooms (50 singles, 37 doubles, 7 apartments).
PTJHA6UFGKDW hhhh
Qubus Hotel Krakw J-4, ul. Nadwilaska 6, tel.
(+48) 12 374 51 00, www.qubushotel.com. A cool design
includes an eye-catching wall that juts out at an angle from
the hotels faade. Air-conditioned rooms come furnished to
high standards and feature 26 inch televisions, broadband
internet as well as an ironing board to help with keeping
up appearances. Unsurprisingly theres a heavy business
slant to this hotel, with nine conference rooms to pick from,
while for after-work moments take timeout in the fitness
centre - complete with top floor swimming pool with views
stretching over central Krakw. Q194 rooms (183 singles,
170 doubles, 10 suites, 1 apartment). PTHAR
6UFGKDCW hhhh
Rubinstein E-6, ul. Szeroka 12, tel. (+48) 12 384 00
00, www.rubinstein.pl. Its no longer possible to refer to
Kazimierz as Krakws upcoming district. Kazimierz has
well and truly arrived, and this place is the proof. In keeping
with the spirit of the area rooms in the Rubinstein come with
elegant carved wood finishes, luxurious rugs and antique
details. Some feature restored timber ceilings, and all are
treated to modern finishes that include gleaming bathrooms,
air conditioning and digital TV. Situated right in the thick
of the tourist trail, so expect a host of sights right on your
doorstep. Q28 rooms (23 singles, 19 doubles, 5 suites).
PTHARUFGKDW hhhh
Upmarket
Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikoajska 20, tel. (+48) 12 429 60
70, www.hotel-amadeus.pl. A posh effort inspired by the
age of Mozart with antique furnishings paired with state-of-the-
art trimmings. Prince Charles once bedded down here and this
is one place which guarantees the memorable stay that this
historic city requires. Q22 rooms (20 singles, 20 doubles, 2
apartments). PTYJHARUFGKD hhhh
andels Hotel Cracow D-2, ul. Pawia 3, tel. (+48) 12
660 01 00, www.andelscracow.com. One of the first things
youll see when you step off the train is this ultra-modern hotel
designed by Jestico & Whiles, so there can be no doubt about
location. Full of odd curves, recessed floor and wall lighting,
Andels hosts a restaurant, bar, fitness studio, sauna and
massage services. Rooms feature LCD TVs, CD and DVD
players, in-house movies and light, bright colours, while the
rooftop terrace of the Andels apartment is simply unbeat-
able. Q159 rooms (153 singles, 153 doubles, 6 apartments).
PTYHAR6UFGKDW hhhh
Best Western Krakw Old Town C-4, ul. w. Gertrudy
6, tel. (+48) 12 422 76 66, www.bwkrakow.pl. The worlds
biggest hotel chain is late to the party but has finally made it
into Krakws Old Town, modernising this historic townhouse
to meet the Best Western standard. Whether you like the way
they went about it is a matter of taste we suppose, but note
that most of the rooms have a bold, avantgarde jazz theme;
that means piano key design motifs, wall-length close-ups
of drum kits, show posters and multi-coloured (thankfully
adjustable) lighting that all conspire to make the space look
more like a jazz-themed cocktail lounge than hotel. Room sizes
range from cramped to spacious, and some have a much
28
HOTELS
29
HOTELS
Mid-range
Ascot Hotel E- 3, ul. Radziwiowska 3, tel. (+48)
12 384 06 06, www.hotelascot.pl. A modern front
shi el ds a sharpl y desi gned hotel that i ncl udes repri nts
of cl assi c works by Tamara Lempi cka i n the l obby,
and free i nternet access i nsi de each room. Smar tl y
appoi nted rooms come wi t h reddi sh carpet s and
bouncy beds, whi l e the shi ni ng whi te bathrooms al so
i ncl ude hai rdryers - not al ways a gi ven i n Pol and. Q49
rooms (49 si ngl es, 36 doubl es, 7 tri pl es, 2 quads).
PTHA6ULGW hhh
Campanile D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12
424 26 00, www.campanile.com. The bright rooms come
decorated in the Campanile flagship colours of cream and
green, and feature satellite TV and bathtubs. Ask for one of
the top-floor quarters that overlook the surrounding Planty
Park. Q106 rooms (105 singles, 105 doubles, 43 triples, 1
apartment). PTJHA6UGW hh
Chopin Cracow K-2, ul. Przy Rondzie 2, tel. (+48) 12
299 00 00, www.chopinhotel.com. A modern building
offering clean-cut, functional accommodation and a western
attitude to service. Free wireless internet access for guests,
as well as regular promotions to keep an eye out for. Recent
renovations have seen all the rooms upgraded. Q219 rooms
(219 singles, 219 doubles). PTHAR6UFLG
KDW hhh
Classic D- 3, ul. w. Tomasza 32, tel. (+48) 12
424 03 03, www.hotel- classic.pl. The work of a Dan-
ish archi tect, Classi c combi nes cl ean li nes and sl eek
furnishings with an exterior that slots in neatly with the
surrounding Old Town. All rooms come with satellite TV,
internet connection and air-conditioning. Q30 rooms (25
singles, 25 doubles, 3 triples, 5 apartments). PTJA
R6ULGW hhh
Eden E-6, ul. Ciemna 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 65 65,
www.hoteleden.pl. A modern Kazimierz hotel that caters
to all, but keeps Jewish guests in mind, with fragments of the
Torah on the doors, Krakws only truly kosher restaurant,
original paintings of Kazimierz li fe, and the only mikveh
(Jewish ritual bath house) in Poland. On top of that they also
boast a salt cave to regenerate your body and spirit. Q27
rooms (25 singles, 21 doubles, 5 triples, 2 apartments).
THA6UGKDW hhh
Fortuna Bis A-3, ul. Pisudskiego 25, tel. (+48) 12
430 10 25, www.hotel-fortunabis.pl. A welcoming hotel
with a charming green, gated courtyard and wraparound
balcony festooned with flowerpots and shrubs. Rooms have
a comfortable, homey atmosphere and come with free inter-
net, and guests get a 10% discount in the rustic restaurant
serving local specialties. Make use of the guarded parking
and find most of the citys attractions within easy walking
distance. Get in touch to negotiate prices. Q23 rooms (6
singles, 14 doubles, 2 triples, 1 apartment). THAR
6ULGKW hhh
Ibis Krakw Centrum A-5, ul. Syrokomli 2, tel. (+48)
12 299 33 00, www.accorhotels.com. You know what
to expect with the Ibis brand. While not an adventurous
choice the guys behind the French chain show an unflag-
ging commitment to maintaining international standards
and high-grade service. Spotless furnishings and a central
location add to the appeal and rooms have recently been
fully renovated. Q175 rooms (175 singles, 175 doubles).
PTJA6UGKW hh
Karmel E-6, ul. Kupa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 67 00, www.
karmel.com.pl. Smack bang in the middle of the action, this
classic Kazimierz three-star gem may not offer the most spacious
rooms in the city but what it lacks in square metres it more than
makes up for with other things. Friendly and genuinely helpful
staff oversee everything nicely, plonking chocolates on pillows
and providing tea- and coffee-making facilities in all the rooms.
Theres free wireless internet too, and a decentish cold buffet
breakfast served in the downstairs restaurant. Q11 rooms (4
singles, 6 doubles, 1 suite). PTHAR6GKW hhh
Klezmer Hois E-6, ul. Szeroka 6, tel. (+48) 12 411
12 45, www.klezmer.pl. A former mikveh (Jewish ritual
bath house) has been converted into a spacious hotel with
pleasant staff and sometimes very large rooms. The bath-
house in the cellar is now an occasional theatre. Q10 rooms
(7 singles, 7 doubles, 3 apartments). THA6GK
Park Inn by Radisson A-7, ul. Monte Cassino 2, tel.
(+48) 12 375 55 55, www.parkinn.com/hotel-krakow.
One of Europes fastest-growing hotel companies, Rezidor
has plonked a modern colossus across the Wisa from
Kazimierz, which must be eyeing the interlopers simple,
modern curves and colour scheme slightly dubiously. This
mid-ranger in Dbniki features a fitness room and wellness
centre, impressive business facilities, a bar and grill restau-
rant, lots of parking and an additional 152 kitted-out rooms
in Park Inns signature colours: looks a bit like a Twister mat,
but conjures fond memories. Q152 rooms (152 singles, 152
doubles). PTHAR6UFLGKDW hhhh
Pod Wawelem B-5, Pl. Na Groblach 22, tel. (+48) 12 426
26 25, www.hotelpodwawelem.pl. A small hotel with a futuris-
tic look and a location that stands in the shadow of Wawel Castle.
Smart rooms come in pale lemon colours with internet access
and BBC available to veg in front of the television. Find modern
bathrooms attached to each room, and a sharply designed res-
taurant on the ground floor. Q48 rooms (47 singles, 41 doubles,
1 apartment). PTHAR6UGKDW hhh
Pollera D-3, ul. Szpitalna 30, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 44,
www.pollera.com.pl. A beautiful stained-glass window by
Stanisaw Wyspianski over the staircase is the first thing to
catch the eye. The bathrooms and furnishings are old but
functional and the rooms are otherwise fully equipped. You
might not get all new amenities, but you do get 175-year-
old tradition. Q42 rooms (31 singles, 24 doubles, 7 triples,
2 quads, 2 apartments). PTJHA6GW hhh
Polonia D-2, ul. Basztowa 25, tel. (+48) 12 422 12
33, www.hotel-polonia.com.pl. Operating since 1917
this grand corner structure catches the eye the moment you
leave the train station. Guests are greeted with a multi-lingual
welcome and awesome lobby, while suites come decorated in
a mock 19th century style that help evoke Krakws golden
years. Q61 rooms (43 singles, 32 doubles, 15 triples, 3
apartments). TJHA6GKW hhh
Royal C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12 421 35
00, www.royal.com.pl. This utterly charming hotel in an art
nouveau turn of the century building gives you an experience
you could only have in Krakow, and thats a statement many
pricier hotels cant make. Authentic in every way - from the
reception area with a canopied desk, glass phone booth and
wonderful secessionist staircase, to the spacious rooms
fitted with pre-war furnishings, carpets and wallpapers -
as Royals facilities have recently been modernised (now
garnering 3 stars) the style has stayed exactly as it was a
hundred years ago. The unbeatable location directly faces
Wawel castle from the confines of Planty Park, and the ground
As a unique 3-star hotel located in a quiet part of Cracow
just 5km from the Market Square, we ofer silence and
comfort to our many guests. Our hotel restaurant serves
delicious Polish and continental cuisine, while our guests
also have the use of an outdoor barbecue grill. We also
ofer a sauna and tanning bed.
Ul. Ruczaj 44, 30-409 Krakw
tel. +48 12 269 10 00, fax +48 12 269 20 30
e-mail: ruczaj@ruczajhotel.pl
www.ruczajhotel.pl
floor bar/cafe and Pod Wawelem restaurant are just more
reasons to recommend this romantic old world hotel. Its
where we would stay in Krakow if we didnt already live here.
Q99 rooms (33 singles, 32 doubles, 9 triples, 12 quads, 10
suites, 3 apartments). PTJHA6UGKW hhh
Ruczaj G-5, ul. Ruczaj 44, tel. (+48) 12 269 10 00,
www.ruczajhotel.com.pl. Set in a new but classically styl-
ish building in a residential area, the Ruczaj is a lovely hotel
for those willing to taxi into town. Some rooms boast unique
balconies while all rooms come furnished with an individual
touch. Q45 rooms (25 singles, 17 doubles, 12 triples, 4
quads, 4 suites). PTHAR6UKDW hhh
Wawel C-4, ul. Poselska 22, tel. (+48) 12 424 13 00,
www.hotelwawel.pl. Already one of the top mid-range of-
fers in the city centre, Wawel was the beneficiary of a recent
renovation, making it even more of a steal. Set inside a historic
townhouse, some of the 19th century secessionist touches
have survived, including the glass roof of the entrance and iron
balustrade of the stairwell. A magnificent muralled courtyard
will have you wishing it was summer all year round, while the
fabulous mosaicked wellness centre will have you not caring
to step outside at all. Q39 rooms (29 singles, 29 doubles, 1
apartment). PTJHARGKDW hhh
Wyspiaski D-3, ul. Westerplatte 15, tel. (+48) 12
422 95 66, www.hotel-wyspianski.pl. While the blockish
faade doesnt promise much, the Wyspiaski is well worth
every one of its three stars. Rooms have been thoroughly
modernised and feature rather natty patterned duvets,
private bathrooms and televisions. The gleaming coaches
regularly parked outside testify to its popularity amongst tour
groups. Q231 rooms (150 singles, 109 doubles, 81 triples).
OTYHAR6ULGKW hhh
30
HOTELS
31
HOTELS
The Secret Garden Hostel D-7, ul. Skawiska 7, tel.
(+48) 12 430 54 45, www.thesecretgarden.pl. Secret
Garden Hostel is part of a new wave of low-cost options,
and its also one of the best. Certainly the most colourful,
quarters come with names that leave no doubt over what
colours to expect on opening the door, from Clockwork
Orange to Vanilla Sky via Mint Sorbet. Dorms come with
comfortable pine bunks, while private rooms are neat,
simple efforts, with the addition of wrought iron furnishings
and colourful bed spreads. The common room features
low-slung sofas and a DVD library to put to the test, plus
theres laundry services, free internet access and a garden
for barbecues if the season is right. Secret Garden Hostel
also has a fantastic little apartment close to the main hostel
with two more in Kazimierz (ul. Jzefa 6 and ul. Szeroka 29).
Q23 rooms (17 singles, 17 doubles, 4 triples, 1 quad, 14
Dorm beds ). TAR6UGW
Budget
Etap Krakw Bronowice F-2, Al. Armii Krajowej
11a, tel. (+48) 12 626 11 45, www.accorhotels.com.
Some distance from the city centre this place - like all Etap
hotels - offers terrific value for your money. The tiny little
rooms pack a powerful punch and have comfy beds, televi-
sions, enormous windows and impressive bathrooms (with
shower, no bath). For what you pay you get a hell of a lot;
recommended. Q120 rooms (120 singles, 120 doubles,
16 triples). PTA6UGW h
Kadetus A-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 25, tel. (+48) 12 422 36
17, www.kadetus.com. What was a hostel has now morphed
into a smart budget hotel offering new fixtures and fittings
and a slick design. Internet access, laundry and fully stocked
kitchen are all at your mercy and your host, Simon, can organize
everything from pub crawls to paintballing. Q18 rooms (15
singles, 15 doubles, 15 triples, 3 quads). TJA6GW
Tournet D-6, ul. Miodowa 7, tel. (+48) 12 292 00 88,
www.accommodation.krakow.pl. Excell ent pension-
style accommodation in the heart of the Kazimierz quarter.
Rooms come with clean bathrooms, colourful duvets and
effective heating. The more expensive rooms have TVs and
huge double beds, while all have a kettle and alarm clock.
Also find an in-house restaurant - Czarny Kocio (The Black
Cauldron) - downstairs. Q18 rooms (17 singles, 16 doubles,
10 triples). THA6GKW
Apartments
Apartmenthouse Grodzka C-3, ul. Grodzka 4, tel.
(+48) 12 421 48 35, www.grodzka.net.pl. Top-rate ac-
commodation with facilities that include fridge, LAN and cable
TV. The interiors are a tasteful mix of old and new: original
brickwork and timber touches combined with chic designer
furnishings. Q11 rooms (11 apartments). TAR6GW
Apartments Cracow C-2, ul. Floriaska 39, tel. (+48)
12 431 00 26, www.apartmentcracow.com. Several
locations around the historic centre including Floriaska
and Grodzka - with accommodation fitting up to six people.
Take a look at these prices, they are basically unbeatable. All
apartments come with fully fitted kitchens, satellite TV and
internet access, and rooms come with a pleasant modern
aesthetic. Airport pick-up can also be arranged. Q30 rooms
(30 apartments). TJA6ULGKW
B&B La Fontaine C-3, ul. Sawkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12
422 65 64, www.bblafontaine.com. These high standard
apartments right in the heart of the city come furnished in
a chic, modern style decorated with relaxing scarlet and
white colours. All have microwave ovens, air-conditioning,
hairdryers and high-speed internet connection, however the
hike up to the third floor may not suit all guests. Q7 rooms
(7 apartments). PTA6FGKW
Hostels
Flamingo Hostel B-3, ul. Szewska 4, tel. (+48) 12
422 00 00, www.flamingo-hostel.com. Consistently
ranked as one of the best hostels, not only in Krakw but
the world, Flamingo builds its reputation on the friendliness
of the staff and their willingness to give guests personal
tours of the citys seedy nightlife, much of which takes place
directly across the street. Small, colourful and comfortable
with a nice common area, rooms range in size from doubles
to ten bed dormitories and the facilities on offer include free
internet use, laundry and kitchen. Q21 rooms (10 singles,
10 doubles, 47 Dorm beds ). AGKW
Good Bye Lenin Pub & Garden J-3, ul. Joselewicza 23,
tel. (+48) 12 421 20 30, www.goodbyelenin.pl. Socialist
realist posters hang from the walls inside this original commie-
themed hostel, and the common room even touts a vintage
TV from the 50s. Dorms come with wooden bunk beds, and
sleep no more than ten maximum, the free breakfast is more
generous than most, theres an internet room available, and
if you let them, the owners will probably buy you shots all night
in the downstairs bar. If fully booked try their second location
in the Old Town (C-3, ul. Grodzka 34), and consider a visit to
their Zakopane location across from Tatra National Park. Q14
rooms (4 doubles, 62 Dorm beds ). AGW
www.inyourpocket.com
After holding out to be one of the few remaining EU coun-
tries with no prohibitions on smoking, a new law put into
effect on November 15th, 2010 finally limited smoking
in public places. Smoking is now completely banned in
Poland on public transport, transport stops and stations,
schools and universities, workplaces, sports arenas and
other places where the public gather. Owners are obliged
to place a clear and visible No Smoking sign and anyone
caught smoking by either the police or local city guards
(Stra Miejska) is supposedly subject to a 500z fine.
However, in the case of bars, clubs, restaurants and
other public places, the law states that there can be
a separate room for smokers as long as it is properly
ventilated and closed off from the other public areas. In
response to the controversial legislation, many owners
have exercised their right to create a small smoking
room, however others have made the majority of their
establishment smoker-friendly with only a small area set
aside for non-smokers. Due to a lack of enforcement,
some establishments openly flout the law by allowing
smoking wherever they want. As such, while smoking
in public places in Poland has been greatly reduced, it
still continues in many places. To help you find or avoid
places which continue to allow smoking on the premises
we have used the following symbols throughout the guide:
G This place has a complete smoking ban on the
premises
X This place has a smoking section on the premises
Smoking
32
RESTAURANTS
American
Grande Grill C- 3, Rynek Gwny 16, tel. (+48) 12
424 96 21, www.grandegrill.pl. Contrasti ng wi th
the infl exi bl e tradi ti onalism of Wi erzynek, this fresher
ef fort from the same team behi nd Krakws most fa-
mous restaurant balances modern styli ng and cuisi ne
wi th i ts medi eval setting. The seasonal garden packed
wi th plants hanging from timber beams has l ong been
regarded as one of the best in town, and the addi tion of
a stylish indoor dining area has made this an excell ent
year-round venue. The menu i s a si mpl e sel ecti on of
steaks, salads ad burgers, all expertl y made-to-order
wi th the kind of servi ce you woul d expect from the ci tys
most established restaurateurs. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(14-112z). TAEGBSW
Hard Rock Cafe C-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12
429 11 55, www.hardrockcafe.pl. The international Hard
Rock Cafe chain has set up shop on some of the citys most
hallowed ground next to St. Marys Basilica. Inside youll find
an absurdly large number of staff members milling around
amongst rock memorabilia including a pair of Elton Johns
spectacles to an unplayable home-made guitar from Polish
legends T. Love. Featuring a modern interior stacked over
three levels, stop by to enjoy a juicy burger while gazing at a
scarf John Lennon once wore. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (36-
89z). PTAUGBW
Moaburger D-3, ul. Mikoajska 3, tel. (+48) 12 421
21 44, www.moaburger.com. Like most things from
New Zealand, Moaburger is very proud, making it clear
from the kiwi iconography and info all over the interior
that this is an NZ take on the classic American burger and
shake shack. As far as the food goes, theyve certainly
super-sized it: burgers come served on a tray (a plate just
wouldnt do) and you might even consider splitting one with
a friend i f have any other meals planned later in the day.
Piled with the toppings of your choice, in contrast to Love
Krove, Moaburgers arent a mess to eat. In fact theyre
darn enjoyable, though youll discover its not exactly the
cheapest meal out, with a burger, fries and a drink coming
in over 30z. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
(11-28z). TA6GSW
Rooster B-2, ul. Szczepaska 4, tel. (+48) 12 411
36 72, www.rooster.pl. The equi val ent of Americas
tasteless Hooters restaurants, despite this being Poland
the poor girls look just as bad in their tiny orange shorts
which create an almost blinding glare against their arti fi-
cially tanned legs. Luckily theres sports on the box and
good value upmarket burgerfare to tuck into so nobody
notices you leering. Heaven for lads, and especially dads
who can always convince the wi fe and kids thanks to a
well-segregated non-smoking section, kids menu, play
area and even a toy with the meal. In summer the rooftop
terrace is a treat. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 -
01:00. (19-48z). TJABXSW
Sioux Classic C-3, Rynek Gwny 22, tel. (+48) 12
421 34 62, www.sioux.krakow.pl. This franchise does
cowboy and injun kitsch at its finest. Beauti ful squaws and
amateur ranch-hands in ten-gallon hats swagger about
the cattle wrangling decor, serving pseudo-Mexican and
American chow to customers inside stagecoachs. Its all
in good fun, with outrageous ambiance and a hysterical
English menu (featuring dishes like Steak a la Blunt Arrow
in Bisons Rump) making up for the inevitable kraut and
pickles in your burrito. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (19-99z).
PTJA6GSW
With the development of the market in Krakow, the
number of places to eat is now extremely wide, though
diversity seems to have been abandoned in favour of fill-
ing every Old Town locale with a Polish-Italian restaurant.
These are of course the two cuisines that Krakw does
well, while ethnic food is still too often compromised in an
attempt to make it more acceptable to the Polish palate.
As such, Krakws esteemed culinary rep is rated as a
bit generous by some.
While In Your Pocket once listed every venue in the
city, the explosion of the market and sheer redundancy
of many places now makes it impossible for us to list
everything. In this section youll find reviews of what we
feel are the most note-worthy or high-profile establish-
ments in town, in order to help you find a place worthy of
your time and money, as well as avoid those with prime
locations that are not worth visiting. While our print guide
carries a wide selection, there are even more listed at
krakow.inyourpocket.com, where we encourage you
to leave your own review of the places youve visited.
All reviews are updated regularly, completely subjec-
tive and unsolicited. The figures we quote in brackets
represent the cheapest and costliest main courses on
the menu. The opening hours we list are given to us by
the restaurants but are rough guidelines as to when
you can expect the chef to be working. Below is a list of
recommendations depending on what youre looking for.
Splurge
Wierzynek remains the king of Krakw - the citys oldest
and most upscale restaurant, right on the Rynek. Pod
Ra isnt far behind, but if you want fine dining that doesnt
bludgeon you over the head with huge hunks of meat, our
top picks are the French Cyrano de Bergerac and the so-
phisticated wine list and seasonal cuisine of Copernicus.
Cheap
A traditional Polish milk bar is as cheap as youll eat
anywhere with a menu in your life, and the clearly marked
Bar Mleczny at ul. Grodzka 43 is the easiest to find.
For something Polish with a bit of atmosphere try Pola-
kowski. If youre not a fan of Polish food, Bagelmama
is tough to beat or head to Momo for something healthy
and - youll never guess - green.
Lads
Rooster remains the default choice for stag dos thanks
to the visual feast the staff provide and TVs in every
direction, but try Emocja on match day for the ultimate
local sports experience. For local feed theres Pod
Wawelem where huge portions of meat are served with
side dishes of more meat and the bathroom features a
vomitorium for those who over-consume.
Families
Take the nippers to Sioux for wild west dcor and a
special kids menu, or better yet, drag them to Pod
Wawelem where theyll wear themselves out in the ball
pit while you devour hunks of meat and drain steins of
lager. Everybody wins.
Couples
Finding a romantic spot in this city is not difficult. The city
itself is a marvellous backdrop for a romantic weekend
and with cafes and restaurants seemingly on every
corner and in every courtyard you shouldnt have to
search far. Try Marmolada, Trufla or Aqua e Vino, or
for a particularly memorable evening, take a cab out to
enjoy the outstanding views at U Ziyada.
Dining at a Glance
34
RESTAURANTS
35
RESTAURANTS
SomePlace Else A- 5, ul. Powi le 7 (Sheraton
Krakw), tel. (+48) 12 662 16 70, krakow.someplace-
else.pl. Attached to the Sheraton Hotel SPE is more than
a hotel restaurant, for expats this is every bit as good as a
one-way ticket home. The menu is a classic countdown of
Uncle Sams favourite bar food including nachos and some
other Tex-Mex offerings. As the rock memorabilia and diner
dcor suggests, this place doesnt take itself as seriously
as most hotel eateries, and its one of your best bets for
catching the game of your choice, be it NFL or MLB. Loosen
the tie and belt at the same time. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30,
Mon, Sun 12:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 00:30. (40-155z).
PTAUXW
Asian
Horai D-7, Pl. Wolnica 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 03 58,
www.horairestaurant.pl. A veritable veteran of the sushi
scene at this point, Horai had a significant hand in turning
Plac Wolnica over from a culinary no-mans-land to a stable
of respectable restaurants. An enticing menu with broad
appeal covers Japanese and Thai cuisine with an extensive
selection of sushi sets, curries and grill offerings inside an
appealing interior of rice-paper partitions, origami hi-jinks
and enormous illuminated panoramas of Hong Kong in the
back room. One of the most affordable meals of its kind in
town and still one of the best. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (17-
50z). PTAVGBSW
Yellow Dog A-2, ul. Krupnicza 9/1, tel. (+48) 603 11
31 39. Yellow Dog is the Asian-specialty cafe practically
across the street from Karma. In keeping with celebrated
Indian, Chinese and Vietnamese dishes, rice or noodle is your
primary decision of the day, although it is made easier by very
reasonable prices and a good variety of choices, including
several spicy soups (most for under 10z) and vegetarian
options for the food-challenged. As usual youve got wine,
beer, and juice to cool the palette and wash it down, and
they now have a few TVs transmitting sports for those who
need a bit of footie with their food. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00,
Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (16-32z). PTA6GSW
Bagels
Bagelmama E-6, ul. Dajwr 10, tel. (+48) 12 346 16
46, www.bagelmama.com. Long known as Kazimierzs
link with the western world, Bagelmama brings an NYC deli
staple back to the city where its speculated that the doughy
ring may even have been invented all those years ago; and
ironically across from Polands oldest synagogue no less.
Inside this big, bright caf youre likely to meet Nava, its
Yankee owner, as he scurries back and forth filling orders,
refilling coffees and chatting with customers. A variety of
fresh bagels come with the toppings of your choice, with
options including sun-dried tomato cream cheese, humus,
alfalfa sprouts, fresh salmon and more. Burritos are back
on the menu, plus wraps, falafel and the new bagel burger.
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. (7-21z). TA6VGBSW
Czech
Ceska Chodba A-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 30, tel. (+48)
12 421 05 62, www.ceska.chodba.pl. Ceska Chodba
makes no secret that it provides an edible homage to all
things Czech for the good denizens of Krakow. Before you
even get to the food, youre immersed in classic Czech art-
work, photographs, music, and maybe even a waiter or two.
The Czechs take great pride in their beer, dumplings and
goulash (both the entree and the soup) and you would do well
to try all three here. Theyve even got a few Polish dishes on
the menu if you lose your nerve. For those of you who have
been hunting for the surprisingly scarce oases of Bohemia
in the Krakow area, say ahoj to Ceska Chodba. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (14-42z). TAUGSW
Diego & Bohumil C-5, ul. w. Sebastiana 6, tel. (+48)
12 426 01 01. Presumably the Bohumil side of this unique
enterprise, Diego i Bohumil combines Czech and Argentin-
ean cuisine in one locale through the friendship of the two
owners. The menu is split evenly between the two, and the
multi-lingual menu helpfully reveals that almost every Czech
entree seems to be a slight variation on a familiar Polish dish
like goulash, potato pancakes or fried cheese; not that thats
a bad thing. Simple, solid and affordable, DiB is big on friendly,
not fancy, making it a great place for after-work gatherings,
watching a football match or relaxing on the quiet terrace
(in season). Good selection of Argentinean wines and now
more Czech beers than ever before. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00.
(15-60z). TAIGBSW
French
Cyrano de Bergerac C-2, ul. Sawkowska 26, tel.
(+48) 12 411 72 88, www.cyranodebergerac.pl.
Krakws finest French restaurant is a magni ficent white
tablecloth affair, steeped in tradition and famed throughout
the city for scores of dishes including an exceptional foie gras
and the occasional experimental hit. Located in a medieval
cellar against a backdrop of antiques and tapestries, if youre
going to commit splurgery while in town, there are few better
places to do it than here, and thats a fact recognized by none
other than the Michelin Guide. If you dont have the purse
for splurging, the new lunch menu (served 12:00-15:00) has
much lower prices (17-40z). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed
Sun. (49-89z). PTAEBXW
La Fontaine C-3, ul. Sawkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422
65 64, www.lafontaine-restaurant.pl. The courtyard ter-
race is the pick of places to eat at La Fontaine, though the
interior has a pleasing elegance as well when theres a gale
outside. Here delicious French food is served by a well-trained
staff who actually appear to enjoy what they do. So does
the chef, clearly, as he turns out wonderful dishes such as
roasted goose breast with mango, peach and honey-vinegar
juice. The set tasting menus are a good value at 48-68z.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (18-65z). PTA6BXS
Zazie Bistro E-6, ul. Jzefa 34, tel. (+48) 797 29 08
85, www.zaziebistro.pl. While no stranger to fine French
dining, this pleasant Kazimierz eatery is the closest Krakw
has come to a casual Parisian bistro, complete with classic
set meals (including an appetiser, main and dessert) for an
affordable 39z, and all the French culinary hallmarks like es-
cargot, fantastic creme brulee and quiche that you can order
by size from 1/8th to the whole pie. Set over two levels, the
ground floor tries its luck at looking like a Parisian sidewalk
terrace with a wall-length mural of Frances famous phallus
landmark, interior streetlights and even a candy-striped
roll-out canopy over one table; head to the cellar for a more
romantic atmosphere of candlelight and wine racks. Overall
a great way to enjoy French cuisine without indulging any
stereotypes about snobbery. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (26-35z). TAIGW
Fusion
Russian Enso A-1, ul. Karmelicka 52, tel. (+48) 12
633 65 20, www.russianenso.pl. Nevermind the name
and shady outlier location, this ground floor restaurant
above the exclusively remodelled club of the same name
gives you additional incentive to make Russian Enso your
Dynia Resto Bar A-2, ul. Krupnicza 20, tel.
(+48) 12 430 08 38, www.dynia.krakow.pl. Dynia
has an extensive breakfast menu, which weve gladly
gone back to time and again. Most of the offerings
are si mpl e Pol i sh morni ng standards - scrambl ed
eggs with chives, omelettes with jam or fruits - how-
ever, more hearty creations like the sausage-laden
hul tajski set (13z) and fishy sailor set (16z) are
also available as well as English breakfast for 22z.
Q Breakfast served 08:00-13:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 -
13:00. TA6GBW
Europejska C-3, Rynek Gwny 35, tel. (+48) 12
429 34 93, www.europejska.pl. The market square
location and comfortable, yet classy atmosphere of
the interior make Europejska a favourite of tourists and
elder ex-pats. The extensive breakfast menu satisfies
a variety of tastes with its set English, Polish and Vienna
breakfast platters (29-39z), with plenty of omlettes to
choose from. If youre not ready to take on a meal at
this hour, the selection of coffee drinks and tortes will
sweeten anyone up. Q Breakfast served 08:00 - 12:30.
PTAGSW
Irish Pub Nic Nowego D-3, ul. w. Krzya 15, tel.
(+48) 12 421 61 88, www.nicnowego.com. Unlike
the others listed here, Nic Nowego serves great break-
fast all damn day and right up to the next. With perhaps
the only proper Irish breakfast in Krakw, the menu also
includes omelettes and toasted sandwiches. Not only
is the owner a chef, but he also patronises his bar on
a regular basis, creating a welcoming atmosphere. Q
Breakfast served 07:00-03:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-03:00.
(10-25z). TA6GBSW
Metropolitan C-3, ul. Sawkowska 3, tel. (+48)
12 421 98 03, www.metropolitan-krakow.com.
Universally hailed as peerless, breakfast here is conve-
niently served until 15:00 on the weekends. With sound
American and English skillet breakfasts and maple
syrup-smothered pancakes as menu options, you may
not even be tempted to approach the imposing breakfast
buffet - an upscale assortment of meats, cheeses, fruit,
pastries, and eggs made to order. In the end, the quality
of the food and the friendly service make you want to re-
turn as soon as youve walked out the door. Q Breakfast
served 07:30-12:30, Sat 07:30-16:00, Sun 07:30-15:00.
(7-29z). PTAGBSW
Moment Resto D-6, ul. Jzefa 26, tel. (+48) 668
03 40 00, www.momentcafe.pl. If youre the break-
fast for dinner type, head to Moment where its served
until 20:00. Their large breakfast sets (Classic, English,
Polish, French, Vegetarian, Fitness) are one of the best
bargains in town at 11-17z, including free refills of cof-
fee or tea. Q Breakfast served 09:00-20:00. (11-17z).
PTAGBSW
Szara C-3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 66
69, www.szara.pl. Proper breakfasts served on the
Market Square from 08:00. Choose from five set op-
tions including white sausage grilled with cheese and
cucumber, fried eggs and bacon, and a club sandwich
with grilled chicken and curry sauce. All include tea or
coffee and fruit juice. Q Breakfast served 08:00-12:00.
(18-22z). PTAUGSW
Breakfast
La Fontaine
Full Center Old Town
The best of the french cusine
Tel: +48 12 431 09 30 /48 12 422 65 64
www.lafontaine-restaurant.pl
lafontaine@lafontaine.com.pl
36
RESTAURANTS
37
RESTAURANTS
wE INVITE Y0L T0 ENJ0Y 0LR
0RIGINAL INBIAN BISBES.
CATERING SERVICE AVAILABLE
LL. SAwK0wSKA I3I5
PB0NE: uI2 4232282
www.INBLS.PL, INBLSINBLS.PL
0PEN I2:uu23:uu, FRISAT I2:uu24:uu
TBE BEST INBIAN CLISINE IN T0wN
regular weekend rave-up of choice. The kitchen stays open
as late as the club Thursday to Saturday, and this is hardly
the slapdash drunk food youd find yourself eating elsewhere.
The well-prepared menu combines elements of Polish, Italian,
Russian and Asian cuisine, coming up with standouts like the
spicy Malaysian chicken or solyanka soup (tomato-based
with olives, capers, sausage and kidneys; yes, kidneys).
Stop in Mon-Fri between 12:00 and 17:00 and take 50%
off an already affordable meal. A slick modern interior with
enclosed garden and great service are only undermined by
the playlist of every horrible pop song from the last decade.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. (22-49z).
PA6XSW
Hungarian
Balaton C-4, ul. Grodzka 37, tel. (+48) 12 422 04 69,
www.balaton.krakow.pl. A surprise result on the Krakw
dining scene. Sure it looks seedy but the good news is that
the service is excellent and the food represents one of the
best deals youll find. The fish soup acts as an excellent
prelude to your steaming plate of goulash and on weekend
evenings dine to the sounds of live Hungarian music. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (17-39z). PTAEGBS
Indian
Bombaj Tandoori E-6, ul. Szeroka 7-8, tel. (+48) 12
422 37 97, www.restauracjabombaj.pl. All around not
a bad effort, but a bit hit-or-miss: the Dupiaza is excellent,
but the same couldnt be said for the Vindaloo or Chicken
Masala Bhuna Gosht on our visits. And ordering your entree
extra spicy here certainly wont leave your kids orphaned.
If nothing else its a decent diversion from all the menorahs
and prayer shawls on display in neighbouring restaurants.
Find a pleasant interior with patterned tablecloths, pics of
Himalayan mountain scenes and photo albums of the staff
and guests journeys in the homeland. Bollywood dance
performances are also organised in the summer garden.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (17-41z).
PTA6UIVEGBSW
Indus Tandoor C-2, ul. Sawkowska 13-15, tel. (+48)
12 423 22 82, www.indus.pl. Following a freshening-up
the reds, golds, greens and lotus patterns of Induss interior
look sharper than ever, but its the spacious new summer
garden full of colourful draped fabrics that we prefer when
the weathers warm. The near constant line of people filing
in and out speaks to the high quality of the food, and while
spice levels rarely threaten to reach volcanic, Indus is a vast
improvement on the ethnic experience of yesteryear. Try the
business lunch specials for a fantastic value. QOpen 12:00 -
22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (13-40z). PTA6GBS
Roti Roti D-7, ul. Wgowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 395 70
04. With all the Indian restaurants in Krakw these days,
Roti Roti refreshingly keeps it at rickshaw level, ditching the
gold tapestries and icons to deliver authentic Indian stree t
food in a modern cafeteria setting. The primary menu item
is roti - Asian wraps made from fresh-baked unleavened
bread - and customers get the filling of their choice for only
10z. Though this take-away fast food takes a bit too long and
the small portions could use some rice to fill them out, the
results are undeniably delicious and make a great alterna-
tive to low-quality city-wide kebabs. Roti Roti is still finding
its feet and would be well served by expanding the menu to
encourage stays in their colourful interior of photos of India
and elaborate sand mosaics, but we know well be back for
more. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 22:00.
(4-20z). TGBSW
Lunch, or obiad in local parlance, has always been
the primary Polish mealtime in a feeding schedule that
generally bookends small bites for breakfast and dinner
around this laboriously prepared afternoon feast. A typical
Polskie obiad includes soup, meat and salads, followed by
something sweet. However, going out to eat the tradition-
ally home-cooked meal has never been a popular Polish
practice, unless its to a budget cafeteria. As such, youd
usually find all of the citys finest restaurants with empty
dining rooms until the onset of dusk.
Taking their cues from Warsaw, however, the trend of the
budget lunch deal has now reached Krakw and many of
the citys best restaurants are now strategising to fill their
seats by offering multi-course meals in the afternoon at
prices that are a fraction of what you would pay a la carte.
As such, its a great way to enjoy some of the citys most
elegant establishments without breaking the bank or feel-
ing out of place. Youll notice offers for two-or-three course
set meals priced from 15-30z (4-7 Euro) all around the Old
Town, and weve listed some of the best offers below. Bear
in mind that these are not budget restaurants, but special
day-time offers from restaurants that might otherwise be
out of the price range of some, and that the prices rarely
include something to drink. Smacznego.
Aperitif C-3, ul. Sienna 9, tel. (+48) 12 432 33 33,
www.aperitif.com.pl. More than just offering a set
meal every day, Aperitif has its own lunch menu with an
array of options including the daily special, plus a tasty
club sandwich, chicken burger, a variety of hot wraps and
more. A soft drink is included and the prices are 19-25z.
A great choice if youre looking for a deal in an upscale
restaurant and you arent in the mood for Polish food. Q
Lunch served Mon-Sat, 12:00-17:00.
Haweka C-3, Rynek Gwny 34, tel. (+48) 12 422
06 31, www.hawelka.pl. Once patronised by European
royalty, every day this veteran Rynek restaurant offers a
set lunch menu of traditional Polish fare - soup, entree,
dessert and kompot - for only 20z. Take advantage. Q
Lunch served every day 11:00-16:00.
Restauracja Gessler we Francuskim C-2,
ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 12 627 37 49, www.
hotel-francuski.com. Drop in during lunch to get the
Gessler treatment for next to nothing. Though called
the espresso lunch, this is hardly a quick meal as din-
ers enjoy the soup and entree of the day, plus kompot
- stewed fruit tea - and a choice of desserts, over what
can easily become a languid hour spent feeling like youre
spoiling yourself. A great idea for a fun, cheap date and
highly recommended. Q Lunch served Mon-Sat 12:00-
16:00. 20z.
Trezo E-6, ul. Miodowa 33, tel. (+48) 12 374 50 00,
www.trezo.pl. Lunch offers are limited in Kazimierz, but
Trezos is a steal with soup, kompot and your choice of
their two daily dishes for a paltry 15z. Q Lunch served
Mon-Fri, 12:00-17:00.
Winoteka Winoman C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 7, tel.
(+48) 12 422 10 28, www.winoman.com.pl. This
classy wine resto-bar in the Old Town has an offer that
not only saves you money, but also reminds you that
youre on vacation. Choose a soup and main course from
the three daily options of each and wash it down with a
glass of wine for only 17z. Q Lunch served every day
12:00 - 17:00. A6GSW
Lunch
Polish tipping eti quette can be a bi t confusing for
foreigners. While in other civilized countries its normal
to say thanks when a wai ter coll ects the money,
youll be horri fied to learn that in Poland uttering the
word dzi kuj e (thank you), or even thank you i n
English, is an indication that you wont be wanting
any change back. This cultural slip-up can get very
embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress
then typically does their best to play the fool and make
you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or
conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your
change, no matter what the cost of the meal and size
of the note it was paid with. We suggest that you only
say thank you i f you are happy for the waitstaff to
keep all of the change. Otherwise we advise you to
only use the word prosz when handing back the bill
and the payment.
Despi te the fact that the average wai tress in PL onl y
makes a pal try 10-15z/hr, a customary tip is still
onl y around 10% of the meals total (though being
a forei gner may make staf f expectant of a bi t more
generosi ty). As such, we encourage you to reward
good servi ce when you feel i ts deserved. Fi nal l y,
i t is not common to add the tip to your credi t card
payment because wai tstaf f are forced to then pay
tax on the gratui ty; most likel y you will not even be
abl e to l eave a tip on your card. Have some change
handy so you can still l eave a cash tip, or ask your
server for change.
Tipping Tribulations
38
RESTAURANTS
39
RESTAURANTS
International
Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikoajska 20 (Amadeus Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 423 03 40, www.restauracja-amadeus.
pl. Classy staff serve Polish and European classics taken
to new heights in the sumptuous surroundings of frescos
and 17th century furnishings. In other words, a treat. Try the
classic urek soup - we do not think we have ever tasted bet-
ter - before moving on to more notable nosh like the venison
that will have you wondering how such simple flavours can
be so rich. The superior quality of this establishment has
been grandfathered into Krakws restaurant scene, and
offers the rare chance to eat well right off of Mozarts flat-
wared face. Q Open 07:00-11:00, 12:00-23:00. (49-89z).
PTYAUGW
Ancora C-4, ul. Dominikaska 3, tel. (+48) 12 357
33 55, www.ancora-restaurant.com. A crisply designed
restaurant with bedsheet white walls and table settings,
an open kitchen and carefully tended shrubs guarding the
doorway, Ancora puts itsel f forward as a smart alterna-
tive to Krakws antique-stuffed cellars. Serving creative
contemporary cuisine alongside the requisite Polish dishes
and an awe-inducing 400 bottle wine list, Ancora has con-
sistently won the accolades of many (including that Michelin
bloke) and continues to be one of the citys best spots for a
sophisticated dinner date. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (42-74z).
PAGS
Andromeda K-3, ul. Gsia 22a (Galaxy Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 342 81 42, www.galaxyhotel.pl. This large,
modern restaurant is not only spacious but also mildly space-
themed in keeping with the aesthetic of the Galaxy Hotel its
located in. Tables are elegantly dressed, but the best bit of
style youll find in Andromeda will be on your plate, as the
kitchen goes the extra mile in terms of aesthetic presenta-
tion. Try the chef specialty lamb braised in red wine with
fresh garlic and vegetable while enjoying views of the Wisa
and Kotlarski bridge. Q Open 06:30-10:30, 12:00-23:00.
(49-65z). PTAUGW
Aperitif C-3, ul. Sienna 9, tel. (+48) 12 432 33 33,
www.aperitif.com.pl. This city-centre bargain near May
Rynek features a creamy interior livened by bright orange
tablecloths and garden dining in the back during the summer.
While the atmosphere and interior may invoke the Mediter-
ranean, the 19z lunch menu (Mon-Sat 12:00 - 17:00) isnt
above simple favourites like cheeseburgers, and Sundays
brunch (12:00-16:00) features American pancakes with ba-
con, or BBQ ribs. The dinner menu reveals no lack of creative
muscle with dishes like Rabbit leg caramelized in honey,
braised in red wine and plums at affordable prices, and
the wine list is longer than your arm. Aperitif is an all round
delight. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
(22-69z). PTA6UBXSW
Baroque D-6, ul. Plac Nowy 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 15 48,
www.baroque.com.pl. Known as one of Krakws best cock-
tail bars, Baroques second location in Kazimierz moonlights as
more of a restaurant while the same mastery of mixing drinks is
still on display. In a great location right on Plac Nowy, the interior
of the new space suits the district better by dialing down the
posh elements and going modern casual with lots of sunlight
and a more natural colour palette. The menu leans towards the
Mediterranean while allowing space for local specialties, pizza,
pastas and some great morning breakfast options as well. The
hours listed are for the kitchen; the bar stays open until 01:00
weekdays and until 04:00 on weekends. Another location at ul.
w. Jana 16 (C-2). QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00.
(22-46z). PABXSW
A new magical place on the Kazimierz map
delicious breakfast, unique menu for lunch and supper, original
cuisine, delicious wines,the best cocktails, atmospheric interior
KRAKW, PLAC NOWY 8, TEL. 12 422 15 48, INFO@BAROQUE.COM.PL
open from 8am
Sure, it started out as
a joke: In 1990 satirist
Janusz Rewinski formed
the Pol i sh Fri ends of
Beer Party (Polska Par-
ti a Pr z yjaci ol Pi wa
or PPPP i n Pol i sh) to
promote the countrys
second most bel oved
beverage duri ng t he
new shi ft in government. The concept was popular
enough, in fact, to inspire a similar party in Russia as
well. And thanks to some disillusionment with Polands
democratic transition after the end of communism a
number of Poles voted for the prank party, and in the
1991 parliamentary elections 16 seats were nabbed
by the PPPP. What started out as a joke their slogan
regarding the party running Poland: it wouldnt be
better but for sure it would be funnier evolved into
a semi-serious platform thanks to the newly acquired
seats. Of course, the divided cannot conquer, so when
the party split into Large Beer and Small Beer factions
it signalled the end of the jokey era, and eventually
the Large Beer faction transformed into the far less
humorous Pol i sh Economi c Program. Today l i ttl e
remains of the group except for well-earned entries
in top ten lists of most ridiculous political parties and
Facebook groups celebrating the original idea: that
consuming quality beer is a symbol of freedom and a
better standard of living.
Polish Friends of Beer Party
polskapartianarodowa.org
If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed in
this guide, let the two million regular unique visitors to
our website, krakow.inyourpocket.com, know about it.
Every venue on our website has a function for comments,
be they critical, complimentary or comical, so spill it.
Trezo
Trezo was very nice! We were there last weekend!
Friendly staff and lovely place, there was a boy playing
guitar and a girl playing violin. I recommend this place
highly to take a break and enjoy a glass of wine!
-Eeva Heinonen, Helsinki
Nic Nowego
Nic Nowego is one of those rare beasts - an Irish bar
abroad that is actually like a bar in Ireland. I f youre
expecting shamrocks shillelaghs and green beer this is
not the place for you but good food great beer friendly
staff and friendly clientele? Then this is the place for
you. I always visit when Im in Krakow - great place.
-Trish, Dublin
Schindlers Factory
My wife and I visited the museum in September 2011.
We previously had visited the Holocaust exhibit in the War
Museum in London and earlier in September several in the
Baltic states. The Schindler Museum was one of the most
moving poignant experiences on our trip. We later visited
Auschwitz-Birkenau a similar experience but the Schindler
Museum was the peak of our trip. -Ivan Ash
Have Your Say
40
RESTAURANTS
41
RESTAURANTS
soups, chicken and pork cooked up in a variety of ways,
as well as a range of low-cal meals for those whove had
enough of popping out of their buttons. This being Po-
land, you can expect the staff to look rather nice as well.
QOpen 08:00 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:30. (14-49z).
TA6GBSW
NEW
Emocja H-3, ul. Kauy 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 00 71,
www.restauracjaemocja.pl. The main attraction of this
thoroughly modern restaurant/sports bar inside the Cracovia
stadium is the gorgeous mezzanine with fantastic views of
the football pitch. The stadium location creates a great atmo-
sphere even when there isnt a live match being played, and
nine flat-screen TVs offer all the entertainment sports fans
could hope for any day of the week. Simply a great place for
a meal, the competent menu includes plenty of beer snacks,
salads, pastas, meat and fish dishes, and the 25z meal sets
including a beer are a particularly great value. Reservations
for tables in the mezzanine/VIP section are encouraged
during stadium events and highly recommended for anyone
looking for the ultimate local sports experience. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (10-32z). PTAEGBW
Kuchnia i Wino (Cuisine and Wine) D-6, ul. Jzefa
13, tel. (+48) 12 430 67 10, www.kuchniaiwino.eu.
This local favouri te offers a quiet, intimate setting for
a romantic dinner just off the bohemian debauchery of
Kazimierzs main square from which you can try to pluck
a date for one of the best meals in the area, with the open
fireplace the finishing touch. Choose from pork tenderloin
in Fourme dAmbert or truffle sauce, and a host of great
seafood dishes delivered fresh on Fridays. Also on offer -
and recommended - is the sirloin steak with Camembert
sauce or garlic butter. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (27-65z).
TAGBW
Copernicus C-5, ul. Kanonicza 16 (Copernicus Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 424 34 21, www.hotel.com.pl. Inside one
of Krakws most exclusive hotels youll find one of its most
exclusive restaurants. The menu aims high, and gets results
with gourmet choices that change with the seasons in order
to incorporate fresh local produce as much as possible.
As the menu updates itsel f, the quality remains constant,
and here youll find one of the best wine lists youve laid
eyes on. Original frescoes still grace the elegant gothic
interior where the aristocratic cuisine has been enjoyed
by Nobel prize winners (Miosz, Szymborska) and political
dignitaries (Vaclav Havel, Helmut Kohl). At Copernicus you
get what you pay for, making it easy to recommend for
those on a royal budget. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (79-89z).
PTAGBSW
Dominikaska 2 C-4, Pl. Dominikaski 2, tel. (+48)
12 422 07 50, www.restauracja-dominikanska2.pl.
Hung with poster-sized black and whites of interwar Krakw,
this cafe/restaurant aims to present the ancient city in a
modern way. A cafe area with sofa seating is for those who
come for the modestly priced coffee, while a more formal
dining room lures patrons with its Polish and Italian menu.
Kids also get their own menu and play area, and even the
seeing impaired have been considered with Krakws first
braille menu. Unfortunately this guidebook isnt in braille, so
the blind may never find out. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (17-43z).
PTAUGBSW
Dynia Resto Bar A-2, ul. Krupnicza 20, tel. (+48)
12 430 08 38, www.dynia.krakow.pl. Ul tra stylish,
with a design that incorporates lots of shining leather,
bare bricks and circular patterns. But the best bit of all is
the large garden, an absolutely ace spot festooned with
plant li fe and girdled by an ancient red brick wall. The
main menu features decent breakfast options, spaghetti,
Metropolitan C-3, ul. Sawkowska 3, tel. (+48) 12
421 98 03, www.metropolitan-krakow.com. Ten years
on and were still saying it: this is Krakws best breakfast
with a choice of British fry-ups or American-style maple
syrup pancakes to help soak up the liquid indulgences of
the night previous. While the breakfasts are the stuff of
legend, Metropolitan is by no means a one trick pony. As
the hours tick by this cosmopolitan, wood-fitted spot fills
up with an urbane crowd taking their pick from a quasi-
fusion menu. Best of all an open kitchen means theres
no chance of some jester choosing to do obscene things
to your order. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sun 07:30 - 18:00.
(29-64z). PTAGBSW
Pod R (Under the Rose) C-2, ul. Floriaska 14
(Pod R Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.
com.pl. Excellent Polish and European cuisine served under
a glass-covered atrium in the Pod R hotel. A piano sits
on a raised platform, and higher up theres a balcony with
tables overlooking the main floor. The menu features a
veritable list of birds and forest animals, including a rather
tasty dead bambi. Prices are high for Krakow, but then so
are the standards. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-89z). PT
JAUEGSW
Restauracj a Uni cus C- 2, ul . w. Marka 20
(Unicus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 433 71 27, www.
hotel uni cus. pl . Award- wi nni ng Pol i sh chef Rafal
Targosz oversees an enti ci ng range of predomi nantl y
Pol i sh di shes i n thi s recommended, atmospheri c hotel -
based cel l ar restaurant. Among the many i nteresti ng
treats populating the excell ent val ue menu is a spl endi d
candi ed duck l eg wi th gi nger. For those who can t af ford
the ai r fare, the restaurant websi te boasts one of Mr.
Targoszs l egendary reci pes. QOpen 14: 00 - 22: 00.
(35-79z). PTAGW
Scandal e Royal B- 2, Pl . Szczepaski 2, tel .
(+48) 12 422 13 33, www.scandal e.pl. Scandal e
Royal successful l y ski r ts the l i ne bet ween l ounge,
cafe and bi st ro by bei ng one of t he most st yl i sh
pl aces to be al l day and ni ght. I n more shades of
vi ol et than we knew possi bl e, i t nonethel ess stays
wel l - l i t and i nvi ti ng thanks to wal l - l ength wi ndows
and a massi ve chandel i er bi secti ng the t wo fl oors
l i ke a fragi l e f i repol e. On the card you l l f i nd sal ads,
past as, and meat di shes t o t ast e, wi t h pr oper
breakfast i n the morni ngs and an af ter 22: 00 menu
( featuri ng tapas) l ate ni ght, when ever ythi ng i nsi de
f r om t he cushi ons t o t he cl i ent el e l ooks edi bl e.
QOpen 07: 30 - 24: 00, Fri , Sat 07: 30 - 02: 00. (18-
57z ). PTAUBXSW
Studi o Qul i narne E-7, ul . Gazowa 4, tel . (+48)
12 430 69 14, www. studi oqul i narne.pl . Housed
i nsi de an ol d bus hangar on t he si te of t he Ci t y
Engi neeri ng Museum, Studi o Qul i nar ne has t aken
thi s ai r y i ndustri al i nteri or of bri cks and ti mbers and
tur ned i t i nto one of Krakw s most el egant di ni ng
dest i nat i ons. Pot ted pl ant s and i l l umi nated whi te
drapes cl everl y hang bet ween f i ne t abl e set t i ngs
wi t h ref reshi ngl y mi smatched 18t h centur y chai r s
as a pi ani st pl ays i n t he mai n di ni ng area. The ai r
of excl usi vi t y i s di f f used by wal l - l engt h wi ndows
openi ng onto t he st reet i n fai r weat her, and t he
summer garden ful l of greener y and futons i s one of
t he most comfor t abl e pl aces for a cockt ai l i n town.
The menu ranges f rom af fordabl e past a di shes to
pr i cey exot i c game, and we can r ecommend not
onl y t he deer, but t he ent i re experi ence. QOpen
11: 00 - 22: 00, Fri , Sat 11: 00 - 23: 00. (23-75z ).
TA6UEGBSW
20 Krupnicza St., Cracow
Phone: 12 430 08 38
www.dynia.krakow.pl
Open:
Mon-Fri 8:00-22:00
Sat-Sun 9:00-22:00
Something good to start the day - a tasty breakfast.
Yummy salads and pastas for lunch.
Long cool drinks in the evening.
42
RESTAURANTS
Szara C-3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 69,
www.szara.pl. An important looking restaurant which seems
to draw most tourists at least once during their visit. Vaulted
ceilings, crisp linen and an atmosphere of complete elegance
make it a great venue for your special last night meal, and the
food rarely disappoints. Choose from dishes like Planksteak
with Bearnaise sauce in what has come to be known as one
of the cornerstones of Krakws culinary scene. An excellent
breakfast (8:00-12:00) destination as well. QOpen 08:00 -
22:30. (41-83z). PTAUGBSW
Szara Kazimierz E-6, ul. Szeroka 39, tel. (+48) 12 429
12 19, www.szarakazimierz.pl. Opening after its sister
establishment on the Rynek, the second Szara achieved
Krakw legend status just as quickly. What makes it so spe-
cial is not the location on Szeroka, nor the swift and bubbly
staff, but the food: nowhere in the city can you eat so well for
so little. This is top cuisine - try the daily specials chalked up
on the blackboard - yet it comes in at bargain prices. Simple,
affordable and very cheerful. All of Krakw should be like
this. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (27-58z). PTAGBW
The Olive A-5, ul. Powile 7 (Sheraton Krakw Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 662 16 60, www.sheraton.com/krakow.
Top class Mediterranean dishes served inside the imperial
environs of the Sheraton. The glass roof makes it possible to
dine under the stars while the foliage dotted around adds to the
al fresco atmosphere. The best ingredients money can buy are
complemented by graceful service and some superb live piano.
Fine dining at its best. And if Sunday Brunch is your thing come
by between 12:00-17:00, where a buffet (wine included) costs
135z per person with children under-10 free and under-17s half
price. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30, Sat
07:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30, Sun 07:00 - 10:30,
12:00 - 17:00, 18:00 - 22:30. (30-94z). PTAUEGW
The Piano Rouge C-3, Rynek Gwny 46, tel. (+48)
12 431 03 33, www.thepianorouge.com. A sensory
delight with crimson flourishes, feathery boas and gilt picture
frames providing an air of Parisian decadence. A private
members area and a pair of black-suited door police add an
air of exclusivity while the live jazz concerts performed every
evening are worth the visit alone. The high-end, high-quality
European dishes are an added bonus, and brought to you by
a busy team of beautiful waitresses dressed in evening wear.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (28-49z). AEGBS
Trufla C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 16 41. The
Krakow dining scene continues to improve and this cosy place on
Pl. Szczepaski sets itself apart by offering great food at the right
price. A simple, predominantly white decor with wooden furniture
allows you to relax while interpreting the stylistically pleasing yet
difficult to decipher handwritten cursive menu of classic Italian
dishes. The open kitchen lets you in on the creative cooking
process and the year-round garden - with its small Japanese-style
garden and fountain - is one of the most gorgeous youll find. With
limited tables inside and out, plus Truflas loyal band of followers,
reservations might be wise. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 23:00. (16-60z). A6GBSW
Trzy Rybki C-2, ul. Szczepaska 5 (Stary Hotel), tel. (+48)
12 384 08 06, www.lhr.com.pl. Hotel Stary won an interior
design award in 2007 and the interiors of its ace restaurant are no
less awe-inspiring, balancing the modern with finely preserved de-
tails of this ancient building. Serving fine Modern European cuisine
with a Polish twist, the menu changes like the seasons - or with
them, rather, meaning a steady effort from the kitchen to use the
freshest ingredients. Favoured by high-flyers and local business
honchos who have been regulars for years, this is a Krakw gem.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (75-89z). PTA6UGBSW
Asia to Go B-3, ul. Szewska 27, tel. (+48) 12 422
04 16, www.asiatogo.pl. From the same folks as the
admirable Portobello, this chain of fast food stands is not
nearly as authentic, but they have been trying harder lately
by expanding their menu to include samosas, won-tons
and wraps. Their primary dish is two pre-prepared woks
full of chicken and veggies, one with rice and one with
noodles; choose your size of takeaway box, pick between
rice or noodles, select a sauce and then top it with crunchy
onions or sesame seeds. Cheap, fast and filling, if not
particularly ambitious, its also open late. Also at ul. w.
Tomasza 19 (C-3), ul. Grodzka 28 (C-4) and ul. Estery 12
(D-6). QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (7-18z). AUGBSW
Chimera Salad Bar B-3, ul. w. Anny 3, tel. (+48) 12
292 12 12, www.chimera.com.pl. This beautiful court-
yard buffet has been sealed off from the elements and now
overflows with ambience year round. Full of potted plants,
climbing ivy, natural sunlight, and surrealistic murals, Chi-
meras Salad Bar may be the most pleasant budget dining
environment in town; unfortunately it tends to overshadow
the food a bit. Choose a plate for four or six portions, say
prosz and point at your pick of the salads, quiche, stuffed
peppers and more. Its not the best veggie fare in town, but
its fast, easy, cheap and a great place to relax and theyve
now got a lunch set for 20-30z. QOpen 09:30 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 22:00. (14-24z). TA6GS
COCA E-6, ul. Kupa 3, tel. (+48) 791 20 03 03. Little
more than a sidewalk stand tucked one street removed
from Plac Nowy - Krakws fast food focal point - this
small eatery serves fantastic freshly made Sicilian food.
The arancino - breaded rice balls filled with ragu (recom-
mended) or spinach (7z) are delicious and duly popular.
Or try the stuffed Sicilian pancakes, salads or home-made
pastas topped with different sauces every day. Authentic
as possible, the endearing owner speaks Italian only and
frequently hands out freebies. The menu is flexible day to
day, but Thursdays are reserved for arancino and Wednes-
days for cannoli. Get their early or fuggedaboutit. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
Closed Mon. (7-20z). P6GS
Dookoa wiata B-3, ul. Szewska 16, tel. (+48) 12
422 42 51. For foreigners, it doesnt get much easier
than this cheap buffet: ask for a big or small plate and
point to what you want. The food - pierogi, potatoes,
pizza, veggies - is mostly fried and not particularly amaz-
ing, but the portions are liberally packed on. Perhaps
the best route is through the separate and stellar salad
bar; unfortunately you cant mix the two. QOpen 11:00 -
22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (12-30z). P6GS
U Stasi D-3, ul. Mikoajska 16, tel. (+48) 12 421
50 84. If youre looking for a truly authentic local dining
experience, you simply cant do better than U Stasi.
This tiny, inconspicuous cafeteria tucked in a courtyard
(past the pizza place) serves simple home-cooked Pol-
ish food at shockingly cheap prices. Being family-owned
(80 years and counting) with table service and English
menus, eliminates it from contention as a true milk bar,
but those are about the only differences. Impossible for
groups, if you can find a place to sit at all, youll be doing it
in silence at a table of students, pensioners, professors,
and homeless people. The plum pierogi are delicious and
the experience is simply priceless. Arrive before 14:00
to avoid eating the last thing left on the menu. QOpen
12:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (9-18z). PGS
Quick Eats
44
RESTAURANTS
45
RESTAURANTS
Vanilla Sky H- 4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski
& SPA), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 05, www.vanilla-sky.
pl. The flagship restaurant of the 5-blinger Art Hotel Nie-
bieski, Vanilla Sky takes a healthy approach as one of the
citys only restaurants to get all of their ingredients from
certi fied organic sources, and the chef has constructed
a tantalising menu of Italian and Polish influenced fusion
dishes that will make you want to happily commit to the
eco-craze. Choose between options like pumpkin cream
soup with veal meatballs or Argentinian steak served
wi th Paris baguette and Provencal vegetabl es. Set in
the centre of a spacious dining room on the hotels third
floor, the well-dressed tables circle a gorgeous Yamaha
Grand Touch piano on which live concerts are given by a
local maestro Wednesday to Saturday from 19:30-21:30
and Sunday from 14:00-16:00. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(39-69z). PTAUEGSW
Winoteka Winoman C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 7, tel. (+48)
12 422 10 28, www.winoman.com.pl. Winoman is a hid-
den haven in the Old Town for wine enthusiasts. Their wines
from all the most popular wine-countries of the world draw
you in, and the food to go along with them may well bring you
back. By the glass (100ml, 7-24z), the fillette (375ml) or the
bottle (21-180z), the variety is extensive. The lunch menu
features a glass, of course, and the menu is largely Italian
with a little seafood and Polish cuisine as well. From the soft
jazz music to the bottle-laden rustic interior, the ambience is
a wine connoisseurs dream. And on the menu each entree
comes with a couple of accompanying wine recommenda-
tions to help those having trouble making that final choice.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (25-49z). A6GSW
Make a day
of it
Brunch at Sheraton Krakow Hotel gives
you time for the people that really matter.
Savour our sumptuous buffet and listen to
the Live Jazz in the unique atmosphere
of a glass roof Atrium. Bring the whole
family as children can enjoy a Special
Kids corner.
ul. Powile 7
31-101 Krakw
t +48 12 662 1000
sheraton.com/krakow

Summer Break in July and August.
Jazzy Sunday Brunch
at The Olive Restaurant 12 PM to 5 PM
including selection
of beverages
Price
135per person
PLN
Make a day
of it
Brunch at Sheraton Krakow Hotel gives
you time for the people that really matter.
Savour our sumptuous buffet and listen to
the Live Jazz in the unique atmosphere
of a glass roof Atrium. Bring the whole
family as children can enjoy a Special
Kids corner.
ul. Powile 7
31-101 Krakw
t +48 12 662 1000
sheraton.com/krakow
Summer Break in July and August.
Jazzy Sunday Brunch
at The Olive Restaurant 12 PM to 5 PM
including selection
of beverages
Price
135per person
PLN
When it comes to late night street food, Krakw has you
covered. Though youll find kebab stands all over popular
nightlife thoroughfares like ul. Floriaska and ul. Sze-
wska in the Old Town, the best of them is Pod Oson
Nieba at the corner of Plac Wszytkich witych and ul.
Grodzka (C-4); though with the low quality of Cracovian
kebabs, thats not saying much. Your options are actu-
ally better than that, from all night pierogi shops to the
24hr vodka and herring bars that have sprung up all over
town (see Zakski Przekski). Perhaps Polands most
popular street food is the zapiekanka (see Cracovian
Cooking box for more) and the best place to get one is
out of one of the hatches of the Plac Nowy roundhouse
(D-6) which generally stay open until at least 02:00.
Required eating by any visitor, the only late night food
spot more legendary is the Kiebasa z Rona sidewalk
sausage stand. For more on Krakws best late night
eats, see below:
Gospoda Koko B-3, ul. Gobia 8, tel. (+48) 12
430 21 35, www.gospodakoko.pl. The real virtue of
Koko is revealed at 2:00 in the morning when you want
a civilised sit down meal without the company of tzatziki
dribbling drunks. Serving generous portions of stodgy
Polish classics like pierogis and fried cutlets for the same
price as a kebab deep into drinking hours, this is a handy
alternative for anyone looking to fortify their stomach
without making a mess of their shirtfront. Formerly
stuffed into an obscure back corner, Kokos popularity
has brought about the opening of a second street-side
dining room which significantly outclasses the original
space in terms of rustic charm. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00.
TA6GSW
Kiebasa z Rona E- 4, ul. Grzegrzecka (Hala
Targowa). This legendary sidewalk sausage stand
has been a Cracovian street food institution for the last
twenty years. Here two old boys in white smocks set up
shop outside their blue Nyska (a Soviet model van) every
evening except Sundays to grill kiebasa sausages over a
wood fired stove for the hungry, drunken masses. For 8z
you get a delicious sausage, slightly stale roll, ketchup,
mustard and an unforgettable experience. Dont miss it
if youre in the neighbourhood. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00.
Closed Sun.
Scandale Royal B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 2, tel.
(+48) 12 422 13 33, www.scandale.pl. Thi s
sexy lounge and bistro has its own special late night
menu served from 22:00 until close, comprised of
tasty tapas dishes. Choose from exotic and elegant
finger foods like bruschetta, tuna empanadillas, Black
Tiger prawns with garlic, meat balls and a lot more.
QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 02:00. (8-23z).
PAUBXSW
Zapiecek Ekspres C-2, ul. Sawkowska 32,
tel. (+48) 12 422 74 95, www.zapiecek.eu. Join
l egions of happy l ocals tucking into the l egendary
pierogi served with no fuss, no formality by an unsmil-
ing lady from behind a counter. It is a long way from
fine dining but for a quintessential Krakw experience
there are few better places to come. Now open all
night, its cheaper than a kebab and a much better
value when everything else is closed. Q Open 24
hrs. (9-12z). GS
Late Night Eats
In Poland, name days (imieniny) are widely celebrated
and have traditionally been given a greater importance
than birthday celebrations, particularly as one gets on
in years. Printed in every local calendar, these name
days represent the feast days of Catholic saints. Every
day of the year is assigned two saints one male, one
female and chances are if you share a name with a saint
(as almost all Poles do), you too have a name day. Some
names are even repeated more than once in a calendar
year, in which case you celebrate the first of your name
days to fall after your birthday.
Name Day celebrations in Poland are social events,
traditionally involving the gathering of friends and fam-
ily at the celebrants home or in the bar of their choice.
Differing slightly from western birthday celebrations in
which the celebrant is often seen as a guest of honour
and might expect to be bought drinks all night, in name
day gatherings the celebrant traditionally plays the role
of host, buying drinks for friends and ensuring that guests
are taken care of. In return, guests should bring small
gifts (typically chocolate, flowers or vodka) as you would
on someones birthday. The Polish birthday song Sto Lat
(A Hundred Years) is sung, and its mindless simplicity
might be tempting for foreigners to criticise until they
reflect on just how dreadful the English happy birthday
song actually is. Name Days are so important to Polish
culture that in Krakw, they are prominently displayed
in all of the citys trams, thereby ensuring that you know
who you should be buying flowers for that day; information
that youll find less readily available on these same trams
is the name of the line or the destination of its next stop.
Polish Name Days (Imieniny)
46
RESTAURANTS
47
RESTAURANTS
Fabryka Pizzy (Pizza Factory) E-6, ul. Jzefa 34,
tel. (+48) 12 433 80 80, www.fabrykapizzy.pl. Often
rated as Krakws best pizza, Fabryka has expanded to a
commanding four locations throughout the city since starting
as a project of students at the Economic University some
years ago. The secret isnt the pleasant wooden and brick
interiors or the slightly precious prices; clearly its in the
ingredients and the list of premium toppings unheard of
in other pizza joints, including feta, camembert, roquefort,
capers, mussels, crabmeat, beans and Tabasco (!!!) to
name a few. The cherry on this sundae, however, is the ar-
rival of extra marinara sauce with the pie - a mind-blowing
event for anyone now grown accustomed to the unilateral
substitution of cheap, translucent ketchup for red sauce. If
thats not amore, well, we dont know what is... Also in the
centre at (C-2) ul. Sawkowska 3 and (J-2) ul. Lubomirskiego
41. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (15-30z).
PTAGSW
Il Calzone D-4, ul. Starowilna 15a, tel. (+48) 12 429
51 41, www.ilcalzone.pl. Tucked behind the Pugetw
Palace, this veteran trattoria continues to impart the cor-
nerstones of Italian cooking - from pizza and calzones to
gnocchi and fresh tortiglioni - now extending themselves
to new favourites like pork ribs roasted in balsamic coat-
ing (34z). Combining sophisticated service with a casual
atmosphere, dine in an interior of colourful photos of Italy,
stout wooden tables and a timber ceiling, or enjoy the terrace
seating in short-sleeve weather. Reliably recommendable.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (15-46z).
PTAUGBSW
Il Forno C-3, ul. May Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 12 421 64
98, www.shisha.pl. In a city where every other restaurant
seems to serve Italian food, Il Forno has nothing to be
insi de this long-standing favouri te of Krakw foodies.
The cool, open interior of blue li ghts and metallic sheens
creates a twi l i ght atmosphere enhanced by gl owi ng
candl eabras. Romanti cs can retreat i nsi de the hand-
some anti que carriages whi ch twin as dinner booths - a
nod to the buil dings history. The ki ds will di g i t too and
even get thei r own menu, demonstrati ng Cherubi nos
successful bl end of romance and charm enj oyed by
all. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. From
May open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (19-80z).
TJA6GBS
Corleone C- 4, ul. Poselska 19, tel. (+48) 12 429
51 26, www.corleone.krakow.pl. Yell owi ng vaul ted
wal l s cl uttered wi th pi ctures and wi ne bottl es cast a
warm gl ow on this ef fort, making i t a wel come retreat
from the hustl e and bustl e of the nearby tourist trail. The
menu waltzes through the best of Italian cooking, with the
lamb cutlets winning particular praise from this reviewer.
I talian cuisine has exported ef fortl essl y to Krakw, and
this is one of the hi ghli ghts. Look for the two wise guys
standing besi de the door. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (21-
47z). TAGBSW
Da Pi etr o C- 3, Rynek G wny 17, tel . (+48)
12 422 32 79, www.dapietro.pl. A dark network
of candl el i t rooms decorated wi th bl ack and whi te
pi ctures of Romes Col osseum awai t you i nsi de thi s
cel l ar restaurant. Por ti ons are enormous, and the
spaghetti comes heaped wi th garl i c, capers, ol i ves
and anchovi es, accompani ed by a tray of bread and
ol i ve oi l . Note that the seati ng on the market square i s
open from 10: 30, whi l e the i nteri or does not actual l y
open unti l 12: 30. QOpen 10: 30 - 23:45. (18-72z).
PTA6BXSW
ashamed of. Alongside a lengthy and popular list of pizzas are
great pasta dishes, including some spicy numbers, and they
all come topped with fresh parmesan cheese. The interior
is simple, slightly old-fashioned and nothing special really
(which cannot be said about the exotic downstairs Shisha
Club where the restrooms are located), but Il Forno is the
beneficiary of a great location with outdoor seating on May
Rynek that is typically full in fine weather. Take advantage
if you can. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (20-50z). AXSW
NEW
Il Vizio E-6, ul. Szeroka 31, tel. (+48) 698 47 85 00,
www.ilvizio.pl. Opening as we were going to press, this
new Italian restaurant in Kazimierz has people buzzing over
its boast that no dish comes out of the kitchen the same way
twice, due to their highly artistic presentation, and a menu that
changes every week. Italian cuisine at its most modern and in-
dulging, let us know what you think by leaving us a comment on
our website, where a full review from us will be appearing soon.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (20-50z). PTA6EGBW
InVito Pizza & Pasta D-3, ul. w.Tomasza 33, tel.
(+48) 12 421 30 92, www.invitopizza.pl. The concept
here is as simple as the food: a stylish interior with a com-
fortable atmosphere in which to enjoy good company and
affordable food. The decor nicely balances touchstones
of a casual, rustic trattoria with the elegance of numerous
wine racks and classic black and white Belle Epoque pho-
tos, thereby outshining the menu which is little more than a
concise list of budget pizzas and do it at home pasta dishes
that come out of the kitchen quickly. With cute students on
the orders, queens Nina Simone and E. Badu on the stereo
and low totals on the bill at the end, theres really not much to
disagree with. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.
(12-45z). TAUGSW
Italian
Al Dente E- 6, ul. Kupa 12, tel. (+48) 12 430 04
18, www.aldente-krakow.com. A light and airy room
with a cream and modern look. This is where the local
sophisticates have been seen heading, drawn no doubt by
Sardinian cuisine prepared by the imported chef. Authen-
ticity is topped off by the ingredients, most of which come
shipped direct from Italy. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (22-55z).
TAGBSW
Amarone C-2, ul. Floriaska 14 (Pod R Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. This is
upmarket Italian food served to an increasingly discerning
audience, all of whom appear to know exactly what they
are ordering and how it should be cooked. Pressure is on
then, but the Amarone team comes through every time.
This is a superb restaurant, with a setting to match - under
a giant glass skylight. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-69z).
PTJAUGSW
Aqua e Vino B-3, ul. Wilna 5/10, tel. (+48) 12 421
25 67, www.aquaevino.pl. Still as exciting as the day it
opened. Italian owned, this chic cellar space comes deco-
rated in a minimalist style with cream and black colour com-
binations, and an atmosphere redolent of downtown Milan.
Half restaurant, half lounge bar, the beautifully presented
dishes come cooked up by house chef Francesco. Earning
rave reviews from all corners, this merits a place on any
must visit list you may be keeping. QOpen 12:00 - 22:45.
(22-56z). PTAGSW
Cherubino C- 3, ul. w. Tomasza 15, tel. (+48) 12
429 40 07, www.cherubino.pl. Enj oy simple, seasonal
Polish and Tuscan dishes cooked over a beech wood oven
48
RESTAURANTS
49
RESTAURANTS
La Campana Trattoria C- 4, ul. Kanonicza 7, tel.
(+48) 12 430 22 32, www.lacampana.pl. Planted on
picturesque Kanonicza street, La Campana Trattoria is a
completely di fferent restaurant in summertime when its
worth visiting just to relax in the gorgeous ivy-green garden
and cobbled patio: full of sunlight and singing birds, it may be
the best dining environment in Krakw. In winter, retreat to
the romantic cellars and dream of better weather. From the
same tried and true team behind Mid Malina and Wesele
- two of our favourites (and the Michelin Guide agrees) - the
pastas and risottos are as good as youd expect. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (16-52z). TAGBS
Leonardo D-3, ul. Szpitalna 20-22, tel. (+48) 12 432 22
55, www.leonardo.com.pl. An elegant, spiral staircase de-
scends past a glass waterfall to reveal a series of dining rooms,
including one filled with Da Vincis scientific sketches and another
crammed with hams hanging from the ceiling and jars of pickles,
evoking a provincial kitchen atmosphere. Country furniture and
knick knacks set the mood as the Italian and Polish main courses
are being prepared. Using hand-picked ingredients the kitchen
staff create some of the best meals in the region, including a
superb deer with mushroom ravioli and red wine sauce. Serving
fresh fish on Thursday and Friday and a well-priced lunch menu
(12-18z) between 12:00 and 17:00 this serves as a highly
romantic spot for couples on a weekend break, while a private,
cottage-style room may be reserved by larger groups. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (21-79z). PTAUGSW
Mamma Mia B-2, ul. Karmelicka 14, tel. (+48) 12 430
04 92, www.mammamia.net.pl. Find some of Krakws
best pizza dispatched from a traditional wood-fired oven and
the choice of numerous other Italian standards prove Mamma
Mia is more than a one trick pony. The interior - clever lighting
and exposed bricks - makes a cool backdrop for casual din-
ing, and the army of regulars is testament to Mamma Mias
growing reputation, even luring them in for breakfast (served
07:00-12:00, Sat 08:00-12:00, Sun 09:00-12:00) with fresh
panzerotti, eggs, muffins and more. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat
08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (14-43z). PTAUGS
NEW
Marcello C-3, Rynek Gwny 19, tel. (+48) 12 426 30
08, www.restauracjamarcello.com.pl. Magda Gessler is
making her mark on Krakw this spring by taking over and adding
her name to the illustrious Wentzl restaurant and opening this
Italian eatery in the same historic locale, which is based on her
successful venture of the same name in dz. Though the official
opening is March 28th (just after weve gone to print), weve got-
ten a preview of the menu which includes all the hearty Italian
staples in addition to dishes like grilled steak fillet in balsamic
vinegar or rosemary sauce and an expansive selection of Italian
wines. The decor may be considered restrained by her standards,
with a white and blue colour palette, and dozens of provocative
photos of classic Italian screen starlets like Sophia Loren, while
the medieval cellars speak for themselves. Look for a full review
soon. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (18-56z). PTAGBSW
Marmolada C-3, ul. Grodzka 5, tel. (+48) 12 396 49
46, www.marmoladarestauracja.pl. While Krakws super-
saturated restaurant market has seen plenty of tankings of late,
the team behind the ever-popular and duly praised Mid Malina
continues to expand. Marmolada - their latest - follows the tried
and true trend of Polish and Italian dishes, prepared and fired
for a few minutes in a large stone oven before arriving at your
table. Narrow, yet long and cavernous, Marmolada utilises
floral folk patterns, canopied ceilings, big timber tables and
poinsettas to create their unique combination of a comfortable
local atmosphere and low prices with great food and service.
Go elegant on Grodzka, just doors down from the citys most
exclusive restaurant (Wierzynek), and leave with a 30z receipt.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (17-54z). PTAUEGSW
Known as Zakski Przekski (literally Appetisers &
Snacks), or Polish Tapas as its been dubbed by some,
these 24 hour budget snack bars have popped up like
weasels all over Krakw (and the entire country for that
matter), cashing in on communist nostalgia and the appeal
of low prices as everything else is getting more expensive.
The Zakski Przekski formula includes a small selection
of simple, local appetisers typically served cold and priced
at 8z, with drinks (coffee, vodka, beer, wine) at a fixed rate
of 4z. Familiar as the bar snacks of the lean communist
years, the menu reads like a list of correct answers to the
Jeopardy question Foods that follow vodka and typically
includes ledz (pickled herring in oil), galaretka (pig trot-
ters in jelly), kiebasa (sausage), pierogi (you know what
those are), pickles and tartare. Much like a milk bar with
a liquor license, Zakski Przekski offer budget food and
drink late night and are a great place to meet the citys
strangest characters. Having seemingly sprung up on
every square in Krakw, we list the best below:
Ambasada ledzia C-3, ul. Stolarska 8/10, tel.
(+48) 662 56 94 60. Theres a vodka and ledz bar on
almost every square in Krakw all of a sudden, and were
gonna go ahead and blame Ambasada ledzia (The Herring
Embassy) for this fishy fad. They were first, and if were judg-
ing by food, theyre also the best. In case youre wondering,
pickled herring (ledz) is a delicacy in these parts in the
same way that vodka is local parlance for medicine. The
two go great together (draw your own conclusions about
that) and for the uninitiated palate we recommend Am-
basadas ledzie w mietanie as an introduction. For 8z
its a cheap fling with foreign food culture, and you can get
any drink in the place to wash it down for 4z. The pauper-
pleasing prices and dive bar interior of graffiti scribbles
make this a hipster haven, one that stays crammed with
clients long after midnight, and one that is evidently well
worth imitating. QOpen 08:00 - 06:00, Fri 08:00 - 07:00,
Sat 09:00 - 07:00, Sun 09:00 - 06:00. GBSW
BaniaLuka B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 6, tel. (+48) 790
77 06 48. For those nights when you simply refuse to
let the party end, despite powerful objections from your
liver, wallet and better sense, BaniaLuka is there for you.
As such, its proving very popular with the young folks
who dont seem to notice the smaller glasses (.4l of beer,
40ml of vodka), and have decided that eating question-
able 8z soviet-inspired vodka snacks is now the height of
fashion. Though BaniaLuka is on par with the best, youll
find similar establishments on almost every square in
Krakw, so count out your zoty in increments of four and
treat yourself to an early morning vodka crawl. Q Open
24hrs. AUGBSW
Pijalnia Wdki i Piwa C-3, ul. w. Jana 3-5 (entrance
from ul. w. Tomasza), tel. (+48) 12 422 80 75.
Well-positioned for popularity on Doubting Thomas Lane,
Pijalnias around the clock crowds make it hard to miss.
Flooded inside and out with students and street urchins,
Pijalnia seems to be at the forefront of this now familiar
tried and trendy formula: offer quantity-adjusted 4z drinks
and a small 8z menu of traditional vodka and beer snacks
in dingy environs that conjure communist nostalgia while
being a subtle backlash against the increasing cost and
ostentation of the citys nightlife. Did we get that right? Es-
sentially the anti-cocktail lounge, Pijalnias faithful have us
in the fold for being one of the citys most fun destinations
any time of day or night, and for making vodka blindness
cool again. Finally. Q Open 24hrs. GSW
Zakski Przekski
50
RESTAURANTS
51
RESTAURANTS
Sushisquare C-3, Rynek Gwny 15, tel. (+48) 12
424 96 36, www.sushisquare.pl. A little slice of Tokyo,
Sushisquare is a microcosm of Japans fondness for seafood,
sake and compact spaces. The mirrored walls help to make
it feel roomier and the bright red and white colouring gives
the place good energy. The menu covers the most popular
Japanese dishes and gives you plenty of choices for your
preferred toppings and sauces. The chopsticks are fun, but
if youre in a hurry to get out and see more of Krakw, grab a
fork. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (32-55z). TAVGBSW
Zen Restaurant & Sushi Bar D-3, ul. w. Tomasza
29, tel. (+48) 12 426 55 55, www.zensushi.pl. The
sushi boom that seems to have consumed Warsaw is in
full stride here in Krakw as well. Zen outdoes much of the
competition by hitting the authentic Japanese interior dead
on with a first floor sushi canal arrangement where custom-
ers can snare different servings as they float by; dishes are
colour-coded by cost so you can keep vague tabs on your
inflating tab. On the more formal second floor, dine ala carte
on traditional floor mats. The menu makes an ironic effort
not to pander to purists, but rather create an amalgam of
European and Asian ingredients and flavours with dishes
like sake-marinated beef or duck marinated in orange and
cinnamon served with teriyaki sauce. QOpen 12:00 - 23:45.
(30-300z). PTA6VGSW
Jewish
Alef C-6, ul. w. Agnieszki 5 (Alef Hotel), tel. (+48) 12
424 31 31, www.alef.pl. The Alef restaurant have shifted
from their traditional Kazimierz base, opening instead on the
ground floor of their second venture on ul. w. Agnieszki - not
necessarily a bad thing considering the knackered look the
old venue was starting to assume. This one is less claustro-
phobic, a greenish dining room decorated with the requisite
Japanese
Genji Premium Sushi D-5, ul. Dietla 55/1, tel.
(+48) 12 429 59 59, www.genji.pl. Whil e vi rtuall y
unheard of in Krakw a few years ago, Genji is the latest
in a line of raw fish flayers to come to town, and the high
quality food, prepared by Japanese sushi chefs, makes an
instant argument for itsel f as the cream of the local crop.
An upstairs sushi bar leads to an intimate brick downstairs
di ni ng area where each tabl e occupi es i ts own room.
Taking itsel f a bit too seriously to explain some of the
kitschy decor touches, the extensive menu of Korean and
Japanese dishes and expensive sushi sets also includes
condescending directions on how to eat your food. How-
ever all is forgiven when it arrives, with eyebrow-raising
prices justi fied by the spot-on results. Premium indeed.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00
- 21:00. (20-60z). PTAVGSW
Musso Sushi A- 4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 23, tel. (+48)
500 11 79 15, www.mussosushi.pl. The 4-year pro-
gression of an Eastern Europe tourist market seems to
go something like this: Year one the ci ty recei ves the
moni ker The New Prague, year two a j i l l i on hostel s
open, year three a jillion clubs open, and year four - where
Krakw currentl y finds i tsel f - i ts all sushi restaurants.
Musso sushi seems to benefi t from those who came
before by not having to try so hard. The menu is more
simpl e and strai ght-forward and here the chefs (shaved-
head Polish men that they are) are actuall y brave enough
to prepare your food ri ght in front of you on the other
si de of the l ong dark wooden bar whi ch can seat about
30 peopl e on i ts three si des. They do a commendabl e
j ob and we actuall y find eating here to be more of a j oy
than an exercise in pretension. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(25-100z). PTAVGS
Milano Ristorante C- 3, Rynek Gwny 42/ul. w.
Jana 1 (The Bonerowski Palace), tel. (+48) 12 374
13 00, www.milanokrakow.pl. Housed in perhaps the
most magni fi cent buil di ng on the market square, j ust
a stones throw from the Cl oth Hall, Milano is a classy
and smart dining option. A small coll ection of intimate
rooms decorated wi th all manner of oddi ti es including
a rocking horse provi de ampl e opportuni ty to tuck into
a fi ne range of I tal i an and i nternati onal di shes. The
cli entel e is mi xed al bei t mostl y well -heel ed, whilst the
almost inaudibl e music comes as an extremel y pl easant
surprise in whats becoming an increasingl y noisy ci ty.
All in all a great choi ce for pushing the culinary boat out
when youre in town. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (29-119z).
PTA6UEGBSW
Portobello B-3, ul. Szewska 27, tel. (+48) 12 422 04
16. What looks like yet another dodgy destination for drunk
food on ul. Szewska is actually something quite exceptional.
This tiny Italian bistro offers a wide range of authentic eats
made fresh on-site from on-the-go bagel sandwiches, wraps,
pizza by the slice, muffins and croissants to stay awhile mains
like grilled steaks and fresh-made pastas (try their excellent
Bolognese sauce). Delicious Italian coffee and desserts, plus
a large beer selection, means theres never an occasion not
to drop in. That they manage to cram it all in a space with
only five small tables and still have room for exactly half of a
Fiat 500 is a bit of a marvel. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (7-23z).
AUGBSW
Trattoria Ritorno E-6, ul. Dajwr 2a, tel. (+48) 12
422 21 40, www.trattoriaritorno.pl. At this point weve
been to enough Italian restaurants that its almost impos-
sible to get excited about Italian cuisine, however Ritorno
reminds us of how good it can be. Open and spacious while
maintaining an intimacy at each table, the concise menu is
more creative than at first apparent and though dishes are
slow to come out of the kitchen, they are worth the wait - the
liver salad persuaded us that liver might actually be some-
thing we could enjoy eating, and the veal was absolutely
outstanding. Each comes with handy wine recommenda-
tions, or try other Italian drinks youd be hard-pressed to
find elsewhere, including grappa, Aperol spitz and the more
popular limoncello. Theres even a special menu and play
area for kids, but Ritorno is better for leaving the rugrats
with a sitter and having a romantic dinner. Recommended.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (15-
32z). PTA6UGSW
Trattoria Soprano B-3, ul. w. Anny 7, tel. (+48) 12
422 51 95, www.trattoriasoprano.pl. This warm trat-
toria cluttered with potted plants, ceramics and decorative
embellishments would feel busy even i f it wasnt packed
full of hungry patrons every night of the week. The menu of
quality Italian classics and pizzas changes slightly as various
veggies come into season. Comfortable, affordable and reli-
able, Soprano reminds you of the simple pleasures of eating
out. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (19-82z). PTAGSW
Trzy Papryczki C-4, ul. Poselska 17, tel. (+48) 12
292 55 32, www.trzypapryczki.krakow.pl. This delicious
venture is certainly in the running for Krakws best pizza, and
most locals have already made up their minds that it is. Do
your dining in their knockout back garden during the warmer
months, or take to the dusky dining room complete with
log fire and wall frescoes. The pizza here can get seriously
experimental with choices including roast turkey, almonds
and avocado, and the chef also extends his repertoire to
cover numerous Italian dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (17-
29z). TAGBS
ristorante pizzeria caff
Krakw, ul. Starowilna 15A
Paac Pugetw
tel: 12 429 51 41
www.ilcalzone.pl
www.facebook.com/ilcalzone
e-mail: ilcalzone@ilcalzone.pl
HOURS OF OPERATION:
SUNDAY-THURSDAY
12 p.m.-10 p.m.
FRIDAY-SATURDAY
12 p.m.-12 a.m.
52
RESTAURANTS
53
RESTAURANTS
Manzana D-6, ul. Miodowa 11, tel. (+48) 12 422 22
77, www.manzana.com.pl. This time we were happy to eat
our own words for dinner. On a return trip to Manzana, there
was narry a nit to pick: the food was excellent and we can
heartily recommend the salmon, which not only looked, but
tasted exquisite. Manzanas New Latin concept consists
of meat and fish dishes alongside reinvented classics (the
massive burritos can be prepared a number of ways) served
in a chic interior of dark, glossy colours, an open kitchen and
low-level Latin music. Though the prices aim a bit high, the
service and atmosphere are comfortably relaxed, making
Manzana the kind of place youd want to frequent often. Q
Open 07:30 - 10:00, 16:00 - 23:00, Sat 07:30 - 23:00, Sun
07:30 - 22:00. (19-69z). PTAEGBSW
Pimiento E-6, ul. Jzefa 26, tel. (+48) 12 421 25 02,
www.pimiento.pl. Behind the gloss and sheen of Pimiento,
this place is about meat and little more; big unapologetic
hunks of it. Boasting of the best steaks in town, Pimiento
gets all their meat straight from Argentina, so if youve had
one too many Polish cutlets and want a proper steak, head
here. Prices appear steep until you remember how much a
good steak costs wherever you last had one, and a selection
of South American wines wash it down. A second location in
the Old Town at ul. Stolarska 13 (C-3, same hours). QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (49-100z). PTAGSW
Mediterranean
Portofino E- 6, ul. Wska 2, tel. (+48) 12 431 05
37, www.portofino.pl. I talian food at a decent pri ce
served on a quiet, atmospheric side street across from
Kazimierzs High Synagogue. With no pizzas clogging up
the menu you can expect good pasta and some wonderful
tossed salads, however the highlight of our last visit was
gramophones and heirlooms, as well as the usual klezmer
band stalking between tables. The food is standard, noth-
ing better than anything else youd find in Krakw. QOpen
13:00 - 20:00. (18-49z). TA6UGBSW
Ariel E-6, ul. Szeroka 17-18, tel. (+48) 12 421 79 20,
www.ariel-krakow.pl. Youll hear mixed reports emanating
from Ariel, and while our turkey steak was little better than
disappointing weve met more than a number of people extol-
ling the virtues of Ariels varied Jewish cuisine. The setting is
typical of the district, with antiques and heirlooms alluding to
the Kazimierz of yesteryear, and a set of rooms decorated
in a charmingly cluttered style. The live music is a popular
draw, though you may appreciate it less when you learn you
are being charged to listen to it. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (20-
75z). PA6EBXSW
Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (Long Ago in Ka-
zimierz) E-6, ul. Szeroka 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 17,
www.dawnotemu.nakazimierzu.pl. From the outside this
venue is disguised to look like a row of early 20th century
trade shops and is decorated with awnings relating to the
areas Jewish heritage. Things are no less colourful on the
inside with mannequins, sewing machines and carpenters
work surfaces adorning the interiors. A great attempt at
capturing the old Kazimierz spirit, and a must visit for those
tracing the districts past. QOpen 10:00 - 22:30. (21-42z).
TAUEGBS
Klezmer Hois E-6, ul. Szeroka 6, tel. (+48) 12 411
12 45, www.klezmer.pl. Late 19th century dcor and a
jumble of rugs and paintings; the interior of Klezmer Hois
follows the Kazimierz code for interior design but its the
strong menu that keeps the staff busy and the restaurant
packed. We recommend the chicken in honey and ginger.
Each night stirring music recitals keep the crowds amused
and the wine flowing. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (19-55z).
TA6EGBSW
Olive Tree E-6, ul. Kupa 6, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 00,
www.theolivetree.pl. Jewish-owned, with a slick menu in
Polish, English and Yiddish, on first glance the Olive Tree
looks more like an art gallery or lounge than Krakws
only kosher restaurant. With a cool colour palette of grey
and purple theres style to spare, and the extensive menu
of Mediterranean fusion delights and Israeli specialties will
have you planning return visits before youve even ordered:
try entree combos like sea bass and anise or get adventur-
ous with beef tongue and shallots. Q Open 12:30 - 22:00.
From April 16 open 08:00 - 23:00. Note that the restaurant
occasionally closes on Fridays and Saturdays at sunset for
private Shabbat celebrations. (29-59z). PAGSW
Latin American
Diego & Bohumil C-5, ul. w. Sebastiana 6, tel. (+48)
12 426 01 01. Two enterprising friends have consummated
the strange marriage of their strikingly di fferent national
cuisines in the form of Diego i Bohumil - Krakws unique
Argentinean-Czech restaurant. The menu is an even split
of dishes from the two countries and is available in English,
making it all the easier to evaluate ordering Argentinean
highlights (like empanadas or Canelones) other than the
steak - still a reliably fantastic value at 40z. Located on a
quiet street midway between the Old Town and Kazimierz,
enjoy the range of Argentinean wines in the simple interior,
where images of gauchos and tangoing couples adorn the
walls alongside characters from Czech folklore. Great food
and great prices have made DiB a fast favourite. QOpen
11:00 - 22:00. (15-60z). TAGBSW
May Rynek 2
FEATURING:
DELICIOUS HOMEMADE
PIZZA&PASTAS
FULL ITALIAN FARE AT AFFORDABLE
PRICES
HEAVENLY DESSERTS
SPACIOUS INTERIOR: LARGE PARTIES
WELCOME!
EXCELLENT LOCATION IN THE MID-
DLE OF THE KRAKOWS OLD TOWN
MAY RYNEK 2, TEL. 12 421 64 98
FIND MORE AT WWW.ILFORNO.PL
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v. :ivnv 2022
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the paella: certainly the best in Krakw, i f it even has any
competition. Sit on the terrace i f you can; inside things get
a bit more formal. Drop by between 12:00 and 16:00 for a
special lunch menu featuring most of the menus entrees
plus a soup starter for only 20z. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
(20-59z). TA6EGBSW
Warsztat (The Workshop) E- 6, ul. Izaaka 3, tel.
(+48) 12 430 14 51, www.restauracjawarsztat.pl.
This little cafe/restaurant pretty much represents every-
thing we love about Kazimierz: a charmingly kooky, casual
atmosphere of effortless originality created by candlelight
and a clutter of battered musical instruments. The food
- risottos, pasta, salads, pizza and more - is generous
in portioning and rich in flavour without any notion that
your wallet will be, making Warsztat an excellent detour
from the days agenda. Recommended. Also now at (D-
6), ul. Boego Ciaa 1. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (15-43z).
A6GBSW
Mexican
Burrito Buffet J-1, ul. Warszawska 20/3, tel. (+48)
12 633 04 09, www.burritobuffet.com.pl. Great news
for anyone who wasnt aware that theres good Mexican in
Krakw, there most certainly is. Serving quesadillas and
wraps the size of a beer stein, get yours loaded with chicken,
pork, beef, shrimp, or beans and cheese in addition to the
assortment of fresh veggies and sauces standard with
each. No pickles or cabbage in sight, instead enjoy genuine
Mexican fillings like refried beans, jalapeos and hot sauce
thats properly hot. With burritos the way they should be, ie.
made to order, it beats the carrots out of a Krakowian kebab
and for about the same price too. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat
11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (11-20z). AVGS
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RESTAURANTS
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RESTAURANTS
Polish
Bar Smak B-2, ul. Karmelicka 10, tel. (+48) 12 431
21 49. Brilliant. Not at the top of anyones list for a night of
fine dining, that is not the point of Bar Smak. Instead this is
a local place for local people who cram around the wooden
tables to eat huge portions of well-loved standards, from
cheap pierogi to excellent bigos to great big golonka. Order
from the board or ask for an English menu. Set meals of soup,
a side, potatoes and a main go for 16z, meaning you can
eat like a Polish king for peanuts. Open late and we love it.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (8-20z). T6UGSW
Chimera B-3, ul. w. Anny 3, tel. (+48) 12 292 12 12,
www.chimera.com.pl. Once combining budget food with so-
phisticated surroundings, the sumptuous cellars of Chimera have
been given over to the fine dining establishment that once resided
next door, while the budget buffet is now only on the terraced
garden (see Quick Eats). Elegant and ethereal with a surrealist
sense of humour amidst the secessionist decor, this underground
charmer is favoured by local art mavens and academic owls dining
on a range of Polish game options (geese, rabbit, deer) unveiled
from beneath silver serving domes at the table. Splendid. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (30-55z). TA6GSW
Chopskie Jado C-3, ul. w. Jana 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 51
57, www.chlopskiejadlo.pl. A usually reliable romp through
the glories of Polish country cooking. The menu is a labyrinth of
peasant dishes, with a vast choice of what nomrally amounts to
enormous helpings of meat and potatoes, and complimentary
lard to start your meal. Bright blue interiors come decorated
with jars and pickles and strings of sausages, and staff are
kitted out like saucy country wenches. Also at ul. w. Agnieszki
1 (C-6, open 12:00-22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00). QOpen 12:00
- 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (12-59z). PTAUGS
City Lunch Cafe C- 4, ul. Grodzka 51, tel. (+48) 782
72 16 79. A small bistro lazil y decorated wi th photos
of the market square at ni ght and sil ver wallpaper that
cl ashes wi th the hi stori cal ti mber cei l i ng, Ci ty Lunch
Cafe serves breakfast, lunch and dinner from a menu
that seems to be in constant flux, but has a bi t of every-
thing from standard Polish fare wi th fri es to pasta and
sandwi ches. The house special ty is gol onka (tradi tional
Pol i sh pork knuckl e, 39.90z) and we can personal l y
testi fy that i t is enormous, deli cious, and well -worth at-
tempting to finish. Though a bi t overpri ced overall and
seemingl y beneath the standard of the adj oining Hotel
Senacki, this place is neverthel ess packed wi th tourists
throughout the day. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. (18-40z).
PTAUGSW
Galimatias E- 6, ul. Szeroka 3, tel. (+48) 12 422
18 02, www.galimatiasrestauracja.pl. Located on
Kazi mi erzs restaurant row, this unassumi ng establish-
ment i s actual l y a real standout. The name essenti al l y
transl ates to hodge-podge, whi ch i s an apt way of
descri bi ng not onl y the hi ghl y refi ned yet rusti c decor,
but al so the di verse menu of l ocal speci al ti es and
European embel l i shments. Though cl ai mi ng some of
thei r di shes as tradi ti onal Cracovi an food, i ts cl ear
that the chef i s exerci si ng more cul i nary creati vi ty than
that, resul ti ng i n a l i st of del i ci ous l ocal del i caci es you
won t fi nd on other menus i ncl udi ng cumi n-vegetabl e-
buckwheat soup and cherr y-stuf fed si rl oi n among
them. Everythi ng on the menu i s excel l ent and remi nds
us of why we go out to eat i n the fi rst pl ace: to rel ax
i n a comfor tabl e envi ronment and enj oy great food
we coul dn t create oursel ves. Gal i mati as of fers j ust
that. QOpen 10: 00 - 23: 00, Fri , Sat 10: 00 - 24: 00.
(25- 65z). PTAUEBXSW
Haweka C-3, Rynek Gwny 34, tel. (+48) 12 422 06 31,
www.hawelka.pl. Krakws moved on, but Haweka hasnt. If
you want to experience the Krakw of olde, this enduring, achingly
formal holdover is the place to do it, just like Queen Elisabeth II,
the King of Greece and numerous Austro-Hungarian Archdukes
before them did at one time. The menu is an encyclopaedic choice
of traditional Polish game and fish dishes served without interrup-
tion or reinvention since 1876, and the dining room is a very green
(popular colour in those days) trip back to the turn of the 20th
century with a reproduction of Jan Matejkos massive Prussian
Homage looming over the proceedings - perhaps the only inau-
thentic thing about having a meal in this legendary local institution.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (20-69z). PTA6BXSW
Jarema D-1, Pl. Matejki 5, tel. (+48) 12 429 36 69, www.
jarema.pl. Classy Eastern Polish and other dishes from the
region in a slightly ostentatious, 19th-century setting. Wait-
resses in traditional costume serve from a large menu including
steak with quail eggs, a few vegetarian dishes, pheasant and
wild boar. Despite the harking back to the good old days, this
is not your classic tourist trap. Highly recommended. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00. (18-49z). PTA6UVEGBSW
Kawaleria Szara Smaku (Cavalry)B-3, ul. Gobia 4, tel.
(+48) 12 430 24 32, www.kawaleria.com.pl. Three spacious
rooms decorated with an equine motif - paintings of Cossacks
and jockeys hang alongside sabres and hunting trophies - include
a large fireplace and lush seasonal garden. The menu changes
seasonally, but represents a strong review of upmarket Polish
game dishes (including wild boar in prune sauce) with some veg-
etarian dishes included as well. For kids theres not only a special
menu, but an entire fun corner with a toy chest and rocking horse.
Kawalerias excellent food, service and value have been recognised
by many, most recently a tyre company called Michelin. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (17-53z). PTAUGBSW
Taco Mexicano El Pueblo C- 4, ul. Poselska 20,
tel. (+48) 12 421 54 41, www.tacomexicano.pl.
This perpetually packed veteran restaurant is one of the
most popular in Krakw and its a damn shame. Meals
are preceded by complimentary peanuts (not tortilla chips
and salsa), the margaritas are strong but shallow, the
spicy sauce is shockingly mild, theres not a black bean in
sight and meals come buried beneath two sides of pickled
cabbage. The cheer ful Mexi can cantina interior is the
primary highlight and we can only guess that its the novel
and disorienting dissimilarity between Polish and Mexican
cuisine that continues to make El Puebl o the coveted
choice of every local couple out on a cheap date. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00, Thu 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
(20-40z). PTA6GSW
NEW
The Mexican C-2, ul. Floriaska 34, tel. (+48) 500
10 31 00, www.mexican.pl. Further proof of Polands na-
ivete towards Mexican cuisine, this franchise finally arrives
in Krakw after tying its mule to posts in seven other Polish
cities prior (thats the sound of us smacking our foreheads).
Gimmicks include busty Polish senioritas with exposed bel-
lies slinging tequila shots from the bottle holstered to their
belts, light fixtures fashioned from Desperados bottles,
and Wanted posters featuri ng sombreroed patrons
tacked everywhere. As for food and drink, all dishes come
with pickled cabbage and the margaritas are rimmed with
sugar, so forget authenticity. Still, this colourful, over-priced
cantina could be great fun for a group piss-up, and though
the placebo doesnt work on us, all the snogging couples
would suggest its a proven date destination. Ay carumba.
QOpen 11:30 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00. (18-50z).
PTA6EBXS
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RESTAURANTS
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RESTAURANTS
Krakowian Cuisine, P-Z
Pierogi
Doughy dumplings traditionally filled with potato (Ruskie),
sweet cheese, meat, mushrooms and cabbage, strawber-
ries or plums, though you will find plenty of maverick fillings
like broccoli, chocolate or liver as the possibilities are truly
limitless. The standards are served almost everywhere
in the city; head to Zapiecek for an impressive array of
original options or head to U Babci Maliny for an uncon-
ventional fried (not boiled or steamed) Pierogi served with
a wooden fork on a plate made of bread.
Placki
These greasy, fried potato pancakes (placki ziemniac-
zane) are very similar to Jewish latkes (i f that means
anything to you) and ideal for meatless winter days. Served
with sauce, goulash or simply sour cream on top, placki
are a great hangover cure and youll find them on menus
everywhere. U Babci Malinys Placki po Wgiersku
is generally accepted as one of the most delicious and
highly-caloric meals youll ever have anywhere in your life.
Smalec
Vegetarians who broke their vows for a bite of sausage
or a taste of urek generall y draw the line here. An
animal fat spread full of fried lard chunks (the more the
better, we say) and served with hunks of homemade
bread, Smalec is a savoury snack that goes great with
a mug of beer. Any traditional Polish restaurant worth its
salt should give you lashings of this prior to your meal;
weve had the best at Pod Baranem or buy your own
at Krakowskie Kredens.
Soup
Poland has three signature soups: Barszcz, urek and
Flaczki. A nourishing beetroot soup, Barszcz may be served
with potatoes and veggies tossed in, with a crokiet or
Pierogi floating in it, or simply as broth in a mug expressly
for drinking. A recommended alternative to other beverages
with any winter meal, wed be surprised if you can find a bad
cup of Barszcz anywhere in Krakw. It doesnt get any more
Polish than urek a unique sour rye soup with sausage,
potatoes and sometimes egg chucked in. Our vote goes to
Bar Smak but you also cant beat Weseles batch eaten
out of a breadbowl. If youre of strong constitution and
feeling truly adventurous, spring for Flaczki beef tripe
soup enriched with veggies, herbs and spices. A hearty
standby in most kitchens, we personally save the pleasure
for compromising situations involving mother-in-laws, but
you can take your chances at Chopskie Jado.
Zapiekanka
The ultimate Polish drunk food. Order one at any train
station in PL and youll get a stale baguette cut in half,
covered with mushrooms and cheese, thrown in a toaster
oven and squirted with ketchup. Underwhelming to say
the least. However the vendors of Kazimierzs Plac Nowy
(D-6) have made a true art out of the Polish pizza. With
endless embellishments and add-ons (including salami,
spinach, smoked cheese, chicken, pickles, pineapple, feta
you name it), garlic sauce and chives have essentially
become standard procedure at this point. Because of their
popularity youll witness ridiculous lines at the various
windows around the Roundhouse, but the wait is worth it.
Krakowian Cuisine, A-O
Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and almost
uni formly off-white in colour. You simply havent had a
thorough sampling of it until youve tried all the traditional
dishes below. Though most can be found at almost any
Polish restaurant or bar mleczny in town, weve given you
our picks of the litter, making your stomach a happy camper
and keeping its contents intact. Smacznego!
Bigos
Traditionally a winter dish, Bigos is a hearty stew made in
large batches. Though there is no standard recipe, ingre-
dients usually include lots of fresh and pickled cabbage,
leftover meat parts and sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic
and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically Bigos
translates to big mess, confusion or trouble in Polish.
Seasoned with peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and
the kitchen sink, the stew is left to gestate, sometimes
underground, for a few days for full flavour infusion. A Pol-
ish restaurant or prospective wife can be fairly measured
on the strength of their Bigos; weve had the best at Mid
Malina, Bar Smak and Kamils moms house.
Gobki
Translating to little pigeons, this favourite dish consists of
boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice before
being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom sauce. Pol-
ish legend claims King Kazimierz fed his army gobki before
a battle outside Malbork against the Teutonic Order, and their
unlikely subsequent victory has been attributed to the hearty
meal ever since. Bolster your own courage at Pod Baranem
or try the creative veggie versions at Vega Bar.
Golonka
Pork knuckle or hock, as in pigs thigh, boiled, braised, or
generally roasted and put before you on a plate. A true
Polish delicacy, youd be best served to buy it at a roadside
stand as youre driving through the countryside, but there
are a few places in Krakw that have proven peerless when
it comes to pork hocks: City Lunch Cafe, Kawaleria
where its served with pepper sauce, and Pod Wawelem
where the servings slip right off the bone and are so impos-
sibly large wed prefer not to know where they came from.
Kiebasa
Sausages, and in Poland youll find several varieties made
primarily with pork, but sometimes using turkey, horse, lamb
and even bison. There are a few varieties to watch for including
Krakowska, a Krakw specialty seasoned with pepper and
garlic; Kabanosy, a thin, dry sausage flavoured with caraway
seed; and Kaszanka, a blood sausage filled with groats and
pigs blood. These youll find in any delikatesy or butcher shop,
but head to Kiebasa z Rozna at the Hala Targowa market-
place (E-4) between 20:00 and 03:00 to get a taste of Krakws
most famous sausage. Here, two old-timers have been serving
sausage out of a van, cooking it over a wood-stoked grill, since
time immemorial at this hallowed sidewalk stand.
Naleniki
The Polish equivalent of French crepes, these are thin
pancakes wrapped around pretty much any filling you can
dream of, savoury or sweet. Generally the easy way out
in any dodgy Polish dining establishment, Vega Bar has
a unique Ukrainian interpretation which cant be beat.
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RESTAURANTS
59
RESTAURANTS
Mi d Mal i na (Honey Raspber r y) C- 4, ul .
Gr odzka 40, tel . (+48) 12 430 04 11, www.
miodmalina.pl. Consi stentl y excel l ent meal s have
seen Mi d Mal i na establ i sh themsel ves as one of the
top restaurants i n town, so book ahead i f you fancy
taki ng i n the Grodzka vi ews af forded by the rai sed
wi ndow-si de seati ng. Thi s cheer ful l ooki ng restaurant
comes wi th raspberri es pai nted onto the wal l s and a
pl easi ng gl ow that i l l umi nates the darker eveni ngs.
Fl oral touches apl ent y here, l endi ng a stor ybook,
candy cot tage atmosphere, whi l e the menu mi xes
up the best of Pol i sh and I tal i an cooki ng. The pri ces
remai n pegged generousl y l ow maki ng a vi si t here
not j ust recommended (as the Mi chel i n Gui de 2011
di d) but essenti al . QOpen 12: 00 - 23: 00. (26- 60z).
PTAUGBSW
Morel a C- 3, ul . Stol arska 13, tel . (+48) 12 421
08 33. A comfor tabl e, modern pl um and chestnut
col oured i nteri or uses a sl y desi gn ful l of pl anters
and par t i t i ons to make each par t y feel l i ke t hey
have the pl ace to themsel ves, and the l arge tabl es
are i deal for get ti ng some work done or conducti ng
a meeti ng. Wi th the atmosphere and decor abl y ex-
ecuted, the menu i s a mi x of sati sf yi ng Pol i sh food
from pi erogi (14z ) to mai ns l i ke duck wi th apri cot
and orange sauce (39. 50z ). Al l entrees come wi th
gr i l l ed pot atoes or t r adi t i onal gr oat s ( kasza) on
the si de; that the f i rst page of the menu i s devoted
enti rel y to vari ati ons on kasza ( i ncl udi ng a pl um and
bacon opti on), you can bet that thi s ordi nar y Pol i sh
stapl e ri ses above expectati ons, and por ti ons are
so enormous that i ts borderl i ne wasteful . QOpen
11: 00 - 23: 00, Fri , Sat 11: 00 - 24: 00. (14- 55z ).
TAGBSW
Follow POLANDIYP on
NEW
Kogel Mogel C-3, ul. Sienna 12, tel. (+48) 12 426 49
68. Named after a Soviet-era childrens dessert of whipped
eggs and sugar (poor kids), Kogel Mogel is building sus-
pense in the market by revealing almost no details about
itself before its big opening around Easter (even the exact
date is unconfirmed). What we expect (or suspect, rather)
is a PRL-nostalgia bistro that offers gourmet food to the
working class and plays up the lost elegance of Soviet era,
presenting itself as a meeting place for the communist elite.
It all sounds quite intriguing and paradoxical, and with May
Day (May 1st) coming up, well be sure to scope it out. Full
review next issue. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Grand opening
sometime between April 1-10. PAGB
Marchewka z Groszkiem D-7, ul. Mostowa 2, tel.
(+48) 12 430 07 95. This friendly little cafe/restaurant off
Plac Wolnica has Sunday morning stamped all over it. The
decor of antique furnishings and framed curiosities is half
home-sweet-home, half Kazimierz half-light and the menu
of Polish staples, breakfast items, pastas and salads brings
above average results at below average prices. The highlight,
however, has to be the assortment of bottled microbrews and
Ukrainian beers, making Carrots with Peas as ideal for an ear-
ly evening drink as it is for a morning coffee. Recommended.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (9-23z). TA6UGBSW
Media Aetas U Mistrza Jana B-3, Rynek Gwny
26, tel. (+48) 12 427 58 75, www.mediaaetas.pl. It
may come off as the Polish version of Medieval Times, but
this name-challenged restaurant is far better and does not
include an uncomfortably anachronistic performance. Nearly
every detail, from the staffs costumes, to the menu, to the
furniture and even the tapestries are classic recreations
of the ancient era. Apart from the enormous bison in the
doorway, this two-floor restaurant really impresses with
attention to detail and a serious sense of historic style. The
menu is all classic Polish and the meads should help you to
better appreciate a 13th century lifestyle. Dont overlook the
massive chandelier and, boys, be sure to have a look at the
literal throne in the mens bathroom: royalty indeed. QOpen
11:30 - 23:00. (29-165z). TAEGBW
Milk Bar D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 24, tel. (+48) 12 422
17 06. A modernisation of the classic Polish cafeteria, the
mantra of Polish/Irish-owned Milk Bar might be that cheap,
slow-cooked Polish food need not be unappealing, lack
flavour, or served in cramped, unclean surroundings. Hardly
a reinvention of local cuisine, Milk Bar pays proper respect
to its culinary roots (take our milky pickle soup with rice for
example - - only a Polish mind could conceive such a thing),
swapping slippered grannies for a staff of cute students
and institutional interiors for a bit of colour and wall-length
windows. The daily special (18z) includes soup and entree
and gives you two options of each to choose from, or select
from the set chalkboard menu of pierogi, potato pancakes,
crepes, bagels and breakfast options. Comfort, cleanliness
and taste are worth the extra 5z in our opinion. QOpen
09:00 - 23:00. (10-18z). PTAUGSW
Mid i Wino (Honey and Wine) C-2, ul. Sawkowska
32, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 95, www.miodiwino.pl. Cham-
pion dishes of traditional Polish fare in a setting piled as
high as the food with muskets, antlers and suits of armour.
All extras (vegetables, bread) cost extra, and youll need
to explain clearly how you expect your meat to be cooked;
but the flair of the service, quality of the food and fondness
of the folk musicians playing full force nearby create a fun
atmosphere thats completely worth being in. QOpen 11:00
- 23:00. (14-68z). PTAUEXS
Morskie Oko B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 8, tel. (+48) 12 431
24 23, www.morskieoko.krakow.pl. Morskie Oko aims to
capture the mountain spirit of Zakopane so theres plenty of
primitive looking furniture, waitresses with bits bursting out
of tradtional costume and regular live bands making a racket.
The food is caveman in style, delicious hunks of grilled animals.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (18-38z). PTAEGBSW
Nostalgia B-2, ul. Karmelicka 10, tel. (+48) 12 425 42
60, www.nostalgia.krakow.pl. Smashing Polish cuisine
served inside an intriguing interior that features a fireplace, wood
beams and a galaxy of rural decorative touches. Its a light and
warming design with plenty of glass bottles and rusty trappings
to act as visual diversions and the menu proves equally well
thought out. Choose from local classics like the wonderfully fluffy
pierogi or opt for the king-sized duck served with baked apples.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (18-75z). PTAUBXSW
Ogniem i Mieczem (With Fire and Sword) J-5, Pl.
Serkowskiego 7, tel. (+48) 12 656 23 28, www.ogniemi-
mieczem.pl. Crowded with barrels of mead, bear skins and
even a winged Hussar, the timber interior is a masterpiece.
But the history isnt confined to the dcor - the recipes were
researched in the local Jagiellonian Library. Essentially a feast
of meat with roast pig on a spit and 1 litre steins of beer being
the specialties, this medieval theme restaurant is far enough
off the tourist track to feel completely authentic. QOpen 12:00
- 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (25-60z). PAUIBXS
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RESTAURANTS
61
RESTAURANTS
his arrival in Krakw felt by not only naming its new res-
taurant after himsel f, but also making it one of the most
impressive and popular places in town. Dingy, unfinished
walls contrast with the olde-world over-the-top service
of white suit-jacketed gentlemen who serve everything
at your table, even preparing some of it in front of you
from the labourious mincing of the steak tartare to the
firing of the sugar glaze on the creme brulee, all while a
pianist tickles ivories in the corner. The set three-course
Espresso Lunch (served Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00) i s a
fantastic opportunity to experience high society inter-war
elegance for a shocking 20z. As such, this place is packed
and we are totally on board. Q Open 07:00-11:00, 12:00-
24:00. (28-47z). PTAUEXS
Ssiedzi D-6, ul. Miodowa 25, tel. (+48) 500 03 32
18, www.oberza.pl. The menu of classic Polish food boasts
a breakfast like at your neighbours house, whatever that
means, but dont let a baffling outburst of Dada prose put
you off. The staff are refreshingly friendly and the honeycomb
of rooms in the cellar sets the stage for a collection of more
comprehensible tucker such as a classic white borsch and
trout with almonds. Our most recent visit found a giggling
lady student from Guinea waiting tables, possibly a first
for the city. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (11-80z).
TAEBXSW
Trezo E- 6, ul. Miodowa 33, tel. (+48) 12 374 50
00, www.trezo.pl. Wel l -desi gned to stri ke a bal ance
bet ween modern el egance and casual comfor t (as
evi denced by the pol i shed marbl e fl oors and rough
concrete cei l i ng), thi s open, ai r y restaurant set out
over two l evel s creates an atmosphere al most aki n
to a wi ne and tapas bar. The wi ne l i st comes through,
but the smal l menu surpri ses wi th i ts strai ght forward-
ness, af fordabi l i t y and l ack of devi ati on from the
standard Pol i sh cl assi cs. Take advantage of the 15z
dai l y speci al s and enj oy an ai r of excl usi vi ty wi thout
havi ng to pay for i t. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (14-38z).
PTAUEGSW
U Babci Maliny C-2, ul. Sawkowska 17, tel. (+48)
12 422 76 01, www.kuchniaubabcimaliny.pl. Enter-
ing this hi dden cellar through the courtyard of a buil ding
on the corner of Sawkowska and w. Marka streets,
youll descend the stairs and greet a crossword-puzzl ed
babcia who deci des i f you can enter this ki tschy country
cottage of wooden benches sl ung wi th sheep hi des.
Youll be grateful to have garnered her approval once
youve tri ed the soups served in breadbowls and pi erogi
served on breadplates (reall y), to make no mention of the
ci ty-famous placki po wgi ersku - an enormous plate
of potato pancakes smothered in goulash, cheese and
Pod Wawelem C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48)
12 421 23 36, www.podwawelem.eu. The place to visit if
youre looking to hit your daily calorie quota in one meal. Huge
portions of acceptable food helped by enormous amounts
of veg, cascade off the steel pans and wooden boards
theyre served on, while uni formed staff weave between
the bench seating serving frothing steins of lager. Great
for groups and families, kids have their own large rumpus
area, while the grown-ups soak up the beer hall atmosphere
shouting over energetic live folk music. Litre beers are en-
couraged and half-price on Mondays, and theres a handy
vomitorium in the mens room - i.e, two enormous steel
basins for those suffering from over-consumption to hock
their recently imbibed pork hocks. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30,
12:00 - 24:00, Sun 06:30 - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00. (16-60z).
PTAUEGBSW
Polakowski D-6, ul. Miodowa 39, tel. (+48) 12 421
07 76, www.polakowski.com.pl. The definitive local
dining experience. Join the queue and order big plates of
piping hot food dished up from metal containers, before
bussing your dishes to the wash-up window. Choose from
the likes of cutlets with mashed potatoes, spinach or beet
salad sides, soups, pierogi and other timeless classics. Far
better than it looks or sounds, Polakowski is an editorial fave.
Essentially an upmarket milk bar this place has gone the
extra yard (or justified the extra zloty) by adding a toilet and
English language menu. Also on Pl. Wszystkich witych 10
(C-4), ul. Mogilska 35 (K-2) and in M1 (Al. Pokoju 67). QOpen
09:00 - 22:00. (8-20z). TAGS
Restauracja Gessler we Francuskim C-2, ul.
Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 12 627 37 49, www.hotel-
francuski.com. Having recentl y bought the Francuski
Hotel, Polish star restaurateur Adam Gessler has made
Pod Anioami (Under the Angel) C-4, ul. Grodzka
35, tel. (+48) 12 421 39 99, www.podaniolami.pl. For
a taste of Polish medieval cuisine, experience this charm-
ing spot under the angels. As you enter you find yourself
immersed in a cavernous, monastic-like, candle-lit haven
that has a very cosy and engaging atmosphere and an un-
expected warmth in some places two full levels under the old
Royal Route. They have two transparent and open oven-grills
along with displays for the main entree ingredients so you can
watch the creation of your meal from beginning to end. Among
the winding corridors reputedly built in the 13th Century you
will find a year-round open garden and fountain, casks and
medieval style wooden furnishings, and a few hidden bars so
you neednt wait for your drinks to descend to your depths.
The menu includes massive meals for up to 35 people, and
has nearly everything imaginable that is smoked, grilled, or
traditionally Polish. Q Open 13:00 - 24:00. From May 15th,
12:00 - 24:00. (45-72z). PTAGBSW
Pod Baranem C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 21, tel. (+48) 12 429
40 22, www.podbaranem.com. An admirable establishment
near Wawel Castle, the interior of exposed brick and wooden
ceiling beams, a fireplace and skilful mural of Krakw in one of
the rooms, offset by framed photos of family and guests on the
walls, creates a truly comfortable and classy dining environment.
Serving Polish standards including cream of wild mushroom
soup in a bread-bowl, the menu features more meat than youll
find at a livestock market, with deer and wild boar getting into
the menagerie as well. Our shredded pork wrapped in cabbage
leaves with mushroom sauce left us more than satisfied, but
the true standout was the complimentary pre-meal smalec
and bread - maybe the best weve tasted in Krakw. For those
stricken with food allergies, this is one of the only places in town
to offer gluten-free meals, of which their menu dedicates a
page. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (15-67z). PTAIXS
sour cream. Wi th budget pri ces for outlandishl y large
and deli cious servings, this shoul d be a go-to for anyone
being introduced to Polish food...or who hasn t eaten in
three days. Also wi th a l ocation at ul. Szpi talna 38 (D-2).
QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (12-25z).
PTAVEGSW
U Ziyada ul. Jodowa 13 (Przegorzay Castle, Zwi-
erzyniec), tel. (+48) 12 429 71 05, www.uziyada.
pl. The menu is an interesting mix of Polish and Kurdish
cooking, and while it alone doesnt justi fy your taxi fare,
the location absolutely does. Set in a magni ficent hillside
castle once home to a detachment of Luftwaffe officers,
the panoramic views of the Wisa river are outstanding
and with these prices youre basically getting them for free.
Definitely worth the trip. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (19-69z).
TAGBSW
Plac Szczepaski 8
31-011 Krakw
tel. +48 12 43 12 423
www.morskieoko.krakow.pl
morskieoko@morskieoko.krakow.pl
Morskie Oko Restaurant located at Szczepaski Square 8 in a beautiful
Art Noveau house of ers Polish Highland
atmosphere unique to Krakw.
T e delicious Polish regional cuisine, live folk
Polish music and unique wooden highland
interior will make you feel like in the heart
of the Tatra Mountains.
Nostalgia Restaurant
10 Karmelicka street, Krakw
Phone: +48 12 425 42 60
www.nostalgia.krakow.pl
RESTAURACJA
POD BARANEM
Ul. w. Gertrudy 21
31-049 Krakw. tel. +48 12 429 40 22
restauracja@podbaranem.com
Wild boar tenderloins
with forrest sauce
Spare ribs in a cabbage
leave with mushroom sauce
... and many more
Traditional Polish cuisine
62
RESTAURANTS
63
RESTAURANTS
esteemed guest after another, with former diners including De
Gaulle, Bush, Castro and other bods who influence the way
the globe spins, as well as starlets like Sophie Marceau and
Kate Moss. A set of wooden stairs lead to a series of impos-
ing rooms decked out with tapestries and plantlife while a
seriously high-end menu includes pike perch flamed in mead.
QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (52-120z). PTAEBXSW
Russian
Winiowy Sad C-4, ul. Grodzka 33, tel. (+48) 12 430
21 11, www.kuchniarosyjska.com. Winiowy Sad offers
Russian, Ukrainian and Caucasus specialities like caviar blini,
pelmieni dried squid beer snacks and a borscht that would rival
that of the villages best babushka. Part-time chef, classical
guitarist and all around swell guy Yury Beychuk takes turns
with another musician serenading diners on Saturday evenings
at 20:00. The interior is full of festive drapes and tablecloths,
ornate murals, candles and crummy folk paintings, and you can
expect to find some fur on the coat-rack. Thoroughly authentic
and affordable. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 -
23:00. (13-55z). TA6EGBSW
Seafood
Farina C-2, ul. w. Marka 16 (corner of ul. w. Jana),
tel. (+48) 12 422 16 80, www.farina.com.pl. Homemade
pastas and great fish dishes have won Farina a devoted local
following and industry accolades. The aromatic, high-quality
Polish and Mediterranean cuisine is matched by the setting:
three bright, breezy rooms decorated in a comfortable, homey
style fitted with unfinished wood. The best time to visit Farina is
between Thursday and Sunday when the seafood and oysters,
imported from Brittany and Italy, are the most fresh. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (21-89z). PTA6XSW
Ukrainian
Smak Ukraiski C-5, ul. Kanonicza 15, tel. (+48) 12 421
92 94 ext.25, www.ukrainska.pl. This veteran restaurant
has survived the test of time and continues to serve up consis-
tently decent, stodgy food - shashlyks, steaks, pork, pierogi, po-
tatoes and borscht - at suitably Ukranian bargain prices. Small
children running amok all over the gorgeous courtyard garden
further adds to the authenticity, but may have you heading to
their folksy cellar where pleasant peasant-dressed staff keep
the bottles of underappreciated Ukrainian beer coming to your
table. Try all fifteen varieties and wake up feeling like a Chernobyl
victim. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (12-40z). TAGBSW
Vegetarian
Cafe Mynek D-7, Pl. Wolnica 7, tel. (+48) 12 430 62
02, www.cafemlynek.pl. The best caf south of ul. Jzefa
since its inception a decade ago, in addition to a classic Ka-
zimierz art gallery atmosphere, good coffee and square-side
summer seating, Mynek also serves a smattering of yummy
vegan and vegetarian dishes like humus and garlic bread,
quiches and a delicious Spanish tomato soup (like gazpacho,
but served hot). Sunday brunch complete with live classical
music between 11:00 and 13:00. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 08:00 - 01:00. (15-26z). PTA6EGBSW
Ekobistro Papuamu K-4, ul. Romanowicza 15 (en-
trance from ul. Lipowa), tel. (+48) 791 37 17 17, www.
papuamu.pl. Quite an admirable and ambitious establish-
ment, Papuamu goes out of its way like no other place in
Krakw to be health-conscious, environmentally conscious
and community conscious. All-natural, slow food recipes
use only fresh, locally grown, fair-trade ingredients to create
nutritious, healthy meals. The result is not strictly vegetarian
(but the meats are ecological too) and involves lots of grains,
beans and seasonal veggies served in large portions for a
fantastic value. The interior is sparse and simple, and its
unclear whether the unique location - as the only restaurant
currently near the Schindler Factory - will be a help or a
hindrance to such a niche establishment. Heres hoping its
the former. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00.
(10-34z). T6GBSW
Green Way C-3, ul. Mikoajska 14, tel. (+48) 12 431
10 27, www.greenway.pl. Despite the somewhat soul-
less corporate packaging, this is an excellent vegetarian
effort well-favoured by students and travellers. Serving pita
sandwiches, samosas, crepes, quiche, curry, enchilladas,
some delicious spinach dumplings as well as daily specials,
the prices are fair and affordable, though the ambiance
leaves a bit to be desired. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 21:00. (10-24z). P6GSW
TREZO
Restaurant | Cafe | Bar
33 Miodowa street, Krakw
Phone: +48 12 374 50 00
www.trezo.pl
open 10:00 - 23:00
Momo D-6, ul. Dietla 49, tel. (+48) 609 68 57 75. A cheap
and cheerful vegan restaurant (Krakws only) churning out
plates of brown rice, organic vegetable mashes, a good choice of
salads, a few Indian and Asian dishes and even kimchee. Popular
with left-leaning schoolteachers, the wacky backpacker set
and people that refuse to stop smiling, Momos prices remain
ludicrously cheap and the food is both healthy and worth coming
back for. Try the excellent spicey sambar soup and dont forget
to smother your food with their coveted peanut sauce. QOpen
11:00 - 20:00. (10-18z). T6UGS
Vega A-2, ul. Krupnicza 22, tel. (+48) 12 430 08 46,
www.vegarestauracja.pl. A great alternative to Polish meat
and starch menus; though the prices have gone up (get used to
it, people), the food remains some of the best vegetarian fare
in the city and therefore a bargain. All around excellent whether
youre a rabbit or not, with the biggest stand-out being the salad
bar. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. (11-18z). TA6UGBS
NEW
Wentzl Magda Gessler C-3, Rynek Gwny 19, tel. (+48)
12 429 52 99, www.wentzl.pl. In the upstairs of a 15th century
building on Krakws market square (nice view, huh?), the Wentzl
restaurant itself can trace its lineage back to the 18th century and
will be adding a new chapter to its history this spring after being
taken over by Polands culinary first lady, Magda Gessler. With a
grand opening just after we go to print, youll have to wait for our
appraisal until next issue, however Magdas new restaurant will
be open to the public from March 28th. What we already know
is that a complete refreshing of the historic interiors has taken
place and the menu has been reinvented to lean towards Polish
classics. Aside from that you can expect high-quality cuisine, great
views of the market square and a full review next time. QOpen
13:00 - 23:00. (54-69z). PTAUGBSW
Wesele C-3, Rynek Gwny 10, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 60,
www.weselerestauracja.pl. This warm, timber-framed,
two-level eatery is one of the most popular on the market
square thanks to a reputation built on Michelin recommen-
dations, friendly service and a comfortable atmosphere.
If your Polish is about as good as your Chinese, the name
wesele refers to the lengthy celebration of family, food,
love and vodka that takes place after a traditional Polish
wedding service, and if this place werent full of tourists all
the clinking glasses and smiling faces might make you think
youd actually crashed a Polish wedding party. The menu is
classic Polish cooking done exactly the way it was meant,
and the goose breast is fabulous. We recommend it also.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (17-68z). PTAUEGBSW
Wierzynek C-3, Rynek Gwny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424
96 00, www.wierzynek.pl. Quite a launch party this place:
according to legend the opening night back in 1364 was at-
tended by five kings and nine princes. Since then its been one
Any culinary journey through Krakw is likely to start with
the obwarzanek. A chewy dough ring sprinkled (usually
extremely unevenly) with salt, poppy or sesame seeds,
obwarzanki are sold from rolling carts on every other street
corner in Krakw, and are so inescapable theyve become
an unofficial symbol of the city. In fact the obwarzanek is
one of only two Polish foods currently protected by the
EU on its Traditional Foods List. Known as the Krakowian
bagel, the obwarzanek gets its name from the Polish word
for par-boiled and therefore differs slightly from the bagel,
in addition to being its internationally popular counterparts
predecessor. Though the origins of the Jewish bagel are
complex, confusing and hotly-contested, most agree that
it was invented by Krakw Jews after 1496 when King
Jan Sobieski lifted the decree that formerly restricted the
production of baked goods to the Krakw Bakers Guild. First
written mention of the obwarzanek meanwhile dates back
to 1394, meaning that its been a daily sight on Krakws
market square for over 600 years. Though increased tour-
ism in recent years has jacked the price of an obwarzanek
up to around 1.30z, youll still see countless people on the
go munching these pretzel rings. Tasty and filling when fresh,
the art of truly enjoying an obwarzanek leaves a lot up to
chance. Krakowian bakers produce up to 200,000 obwar-
zanki daily in the summer, despite the fact that on leaving
the oven the baked goods have a sell-by date of about three
hours. As such, finding a hot one is essential. Enjoyed by
people of all ages, obwarzanki also feed Krakws entire
pigeon population when in the evenings the citys 170-180
obwarzanki carts essentially become bird-food vendors.
The Obwarzanek
64
65
CAFS CAFS
Krakw is infamous for its cafe culture which easily rivals
that of celebrated capitals like Paris and Vienna, perhaps
even outmatching them pound for pound. The Kazimierz
district is particularly known for its atmospheric cafes, filled
with candlelight, antiques and Old World mystique. Most
Cracovian cafes also serve beer and the line between cafe
and bar can be a blurry one. The venues weve listed here
tend to favour coffee and cakes and when most cafe/bar
establishments are turning up the music for their til last
guest clientele, these are more often closing their doors.
4D Gelato Caffe D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska),
tel. (+48) 12 628 73 22. Delicious gourmet Italian coffee
and ice cream on the first floor of Galeria Krakowska. On offer
are more than 30 gelato flavours and fruit sorbets, including
some creative and utterly adorable sundae creations for kids,
plus pancakes, bruschette, baguettes and other savoury
eats. This modern cafe with watermelon-coloured furnishings
is the ultimate place to recharge and treat yourself when
shopping becomes exhausting. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00. PA6UGSW
Cafe Bistro Guliwer C-3, ul. Bracka 6, tel. (+48)
12 430 24 66, www.guliwer-cafe.pl. Adding entrees
and soups to its pared down menu of paninis, pastries,
cheese plates and other snack samplers, the emphasis of
this Mediterranean cafe and bistro is still on wine, coffee
and wifi with older couples going halves on a caraffe while
perusing the days papers or enjoying the street scene
through the wall length windows. White textured walls, a
timbered ceiling, pleasant atmosphere and soothing music
make Guliwer a worthwhile venue, great for a date, getting
work done, or grousing breakfast. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00.
TA6GSW
Cafe Botanica C-3, ul. Bracka 9, tel. (+48) 12 422
89 80, www.cafebotanica.pl. This one has it all from
beer to coffee and chocolate; breakfast platters to toasted
sandwiches, salads and wraps. As the name implies, Bo-
tanica is full of plants and a recent expansion includes even
more seating in a glorious upstairs glass-ceilinged orangery.
Ladies love it, making this an ideal place for a cheap casual
lunch date, though the playlist of Jack Johnson and Macy
Gray may make the skin crawl of anyone who didnt come to
Krakw to relax in what feels a bit like an American liberal arts
college cafe. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:30 - 24:00.
PA6UXSW
Cafe Sza C-3, Rynek Gwny 1-3, tel. (+48) 695 60
27 74. On the second floor of the renovated Cloth Hall,
Cafe Sza offers great views of St. Marys Basilica and the
market square from its large terrace. In addition to being a
great place for snapping some photos, this Tribeca-owned
cafe serves delicious coffee, cakes, and cocktails. Its
fairly recent opening remains one of the citys lesser known
secrets, making the stage right for a romantic date. If you
arent interested in the cafe, you can pay 2z just to visit the
terrace (or try your luck by sneaking around to the second
terrace in the same location on the other side of the spiral
stairs). QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Note that opening hours will
extend to 24:00 as the weather improves. PAUGBS
Camelot C-3, ul. w. Tomasza 17, tel. (+48) 12 421
01 23. Let a blissful day unravel before you amid a collec-
tion of tiny tables, squeaking floorboards and watercolors
pinned to white walls. Owlish academics mingle with local
stage celebrities and braying tourists inside what is no
less than a city institution. An extensive menu features
all-day breakfast, salads, pastas, desserts and plenty of
warm local liquors, and the elevated seat in the window
may be the most romantic spot in town. Check out the
upstairs gallery, or (beginning in September) descend to
the cellar on Fridays at 20:00 to experience the delightfully
strange, often a tad corny, always endearing Loch Camelot
cabaret. Recommended all around. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
T6EGBSW
Chocoffee B-3, ul. Wilna 8, tel. (+48) 502 36 83
84, www.chocoffee.com. Building on the success of their
excellent Wrocaw location, this half chocolate shop, half cof-
feehouse, offers an assortment of to-die-for filled chocolates,
pralines and truffles, but its the coffee concoctions that keep
us coming back. Try a tantalising array of aromatic spiced
coffee-chocolate compositions and other liquid aphrodisiacs,
hot or cold, to go or to stay in the stylish smoke-free interior
piped with chill-out music. Recommended. QOpen 08:00 -
23:00. PTAGSW
Europejska C-3, Rynek Gwny 35, tel. (+48) 12
429 34 93, www.europejska.pl. Impressive from start
to finish, this legendary veteran cafe exudes style, class
and professionalism. The secessionist interior of artistic
woodwork and green velvet booths under vaulted ceilings is
elaborately enhanced with phonographs, grandfather clocks
and other truly exquisite antiques, while English fox hunting
imagery lines the walls. A perfect place for breakfast, cof-
fee and dessert or something more substantial, you can be
assured of flawless service and an elegant atmosphere at
this historic market square escape. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30.
PTAGBSW
Jama Michalika D-2, ul. Floriaska 45, tel. (+48) 12
422 15 61, www.jamamichalika.pl. Not so much a caf
as a lesson in local history. Established in 1895, it was here
that the Moda Polska movement was founded, with many of
the leading artists of the day choosing to take their libations
inside this grand looking venue. Decorated with stained glass
and artwork from the fin-de-siecle era this caf serves as
a favoured stamping ground for elder tourists in colourful
clothes, though the poker-faced nature of the staff limits
the appeal of return visits. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 23:00. PTAUEBXSW
Karma Organic Coffee A-2, ul. Krupnicza 12, tel.
(+48) 506 06 06 84. Just a couple of minutes up from the
Planty and Teatr Bagatela, Karma is the kind of coffee-shop
that lets you feel like youre getting your body and the planet
healthy at the same time. As part of their focus on organic
foods and a litany of gluten-free treats, many of their baked
goods are made in-house, fresh each morning. Apart from the
usual coffee fare, their collection of international bottled teas,
juices, and exotically-titled refreshments are complimented
nicely by their daily specials of omelettes, baguettes and
soups. There is even a miniature play-area for those of you
who may be bringing along a miniature person or two. QOpen
08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. TA6GSW
Massolit Books & Caf A-4, ul. Felicjanek 4, tel.
(+48) 12 432 41 50, www.massolit.com. A true labour
of love, filled with dusty shelves groaning under the weight
of thousands of titles with broken spines. This is not just
the best English language bookshop youll ever find in East-
ern Europe, but also an atmospheric caf where budding
playwrights convene for muted whisperings and American
cookies, bagels, pies, the best drip coffee in town, and now
wine thanks to the recent opening of a comfy wine room.
Ground zero for ex-pats, the bulletin board is an important
community rallying point. A requisite pilgrimage point for
foreigners; dont miss it. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 21:00. TA6GSW
Nowa Prowincja (The New Province) C-3, ul. Bracka
3-5, tel. (+48) 693 77 00 79, www.nowaprowincja.
krakow.pl. The sad demise of its sister establishment a few
doors up the street only makes Nowa Prowincja all the more
rare for its enduringly Cracovian atmosphere of half smoke and
half candlelight, half laughter and half blather. A favourite staff
respite and rendezvous location with a sparing wooden interior,
this stellar coffee bar is primarily furnished with chatting friends
enjoying delicious coffee and maybe the best hot chocolate
in town - so thick you need a spoon - or getting an early start
on the evenings brew-ha-ha. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri,
Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. A6GBSW
Noworolski C-3, Rynek Gwny 1, tel. (+48) 12 422
47 71, www.noworolski.com.pl. Take a seat in this local
classic inside the Cloth Hall and breathe the history which
reflects the life and times of Krakow during the last century
or so. Opened as a family enterprise in 1910, this place has
witnessed and suffered directly from the rise and fall of the
20th centurys extreme political systems. Famous as the
place where Comrade Lenin would come and read the papers
before going on to achieve greater things, WWII occupation
later saw Noworolski become the top haunt of Nazi nabobs,
before the business was taken away from the family by the
communist authorities before being returned in 1991. Things
have changed little in terms of style and service since then,
making Noworolski a bit of a creaky throwback favoured today
by well-dressed locals in the autumn of their years, but the
exquisite art nouveau interiors are among the most decadent
in town and well worth a look. Youll find cheaper and better
coffee in the city but it wont be served to such an atmospheric
backdrop. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. ABXSW
Royal Art Cafe C-5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29 (Royal
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 618 40 41, www.royal.com.pl.
Located in one of our favourite Krakw hotels, Royal Art Cafe
is much more modern than the regal art nouveau hotel that
houses it, with sharp lighting and design and windows over-
looking the Planty. The latest presses are there to help you
start your day, plus widescreen TVs on which you can catch
some sports or world news in English. But Royal Arts biggest
draw is clearly the long rack of fine whiskeys behind the bar
which are sure to smooth the wrinkles and loosen the collar
at the end of any day. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAGW
NEW
Satori Cafe-Bistro E-6, ul. Jzefa 25, tel. (+48) 660
50 88 40, www.satori-cafe.com. This charming little
hideaway in Kazimierz has all the hallmarks of a great cafe:
good coffee, lots of natural light, modern retro furnishings,
shelves crammed with books, soothing music and a simple
menu (in English even!) of tasty homemade pastas and
delicious desserts, including a decent attempt at carrot
cake. Ideal for work, study and even lunch, Satori has the
feel of a classic local hangout, and though were not from the
neighborhood, its all too easy to feel at home here. Delightful.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. 6GBW
Ul Lala Cukiernia & Lunch Time C-3, Rynek Gwny
42, tel. (+48) 12 374 13 07, www.ullalacafe.pl. This
sweet-tooth magnet on the Rynek offers traditional cakes,
ice cream, muffins, tarts, cookies, pralines and more.
Everything is made in-house and available to take-away so
that your guilty pleasure can extend days and weeks beyond
the actual moment of weakness. Ul Lalas world of edible
indulgence also includes an extensive range of blended
juices, cocktails, daiquiris and margaritas, all of which
can and should be enjoyed in the summer seating on the
market square whenever possible. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
PTA6UIGBSW
ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska)
31-154 Krakw
tel. 12/628-73-22
4D Gelato Caffe
Gelato Caff
66
NIGHTLIFE
67
NIGHTLIFE
Bull Pub D-3, ul. Mikoajska 2, tel. (+48) 12 423 11 68,
www.bullpub.pl. What the Great British Pub once looked
like before the brewing industry was mugged by alcopops,
Wetherspoons and silly smoking laws. Squint and you could
be in the Rovers Return, what with all the glass sconces,
booth seating and pictures of fox hunting toffs. The Brit
associations and centre stage location mean a fair chance
of running into groups of lads freshly dispatched from an
EasyJet, thus disrupting the armchair atmosphere which
would otherwise be ideal for an after-work beer and maybe
a nap. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. ABXW
Bunkier Cafe (Bunker) B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 3a, tel.
(+48) 12 431 05 85. Attached to Krakws best contemporary
art gallery, this enclosed terrace bar/cafe on the Planty re-
sembles a spacious greenhouse wherein the plants have been
replaced with couples, happy hour colleagues and English teach-
ers giving private lessons around wobbly tables and chairs. A
year-round pleasure (thanks to plenty of heaters), Bunkiers
inviting atmosphere is marred only by the slow to completely
negligible table service that cant be circumnavigated. QOpen
09:00 - 03:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 09:00 - 01:00. ABXW
Caf Szaf A-4, ul. Felicjanek 10, tel. (+48) 663 90 56
52, www.cafeszafe.com. Owned by two amiable artists,
Caf Szaf has a warm, inviting atmosphere unique to most
Krakw bars - a trait which has endeared it to locals and
expats alike. With a secluded back room that frequently hosts
concerts, film and photography exhibitions, Szaf gracefully
accommodates barflies and event attendees simultane-
ously. Red stencilled walls and enormous blue cupboards
and wardrobes - some of which can be sat in - adorned with
strange organic sculptures of birds and other creatures
furnish this long-time favourite. Recommended. QOpen
09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. AEBXW
EVERY MOMENT SHOULD HAVE ITS OWN MENU...
Baroque Restaurant & Cocktail Bar & Club
ul. w. Jana 16, Krakw, tel. +48 12 422 01 06, rezerwacje@baroque.com.pl, www.baroque.com.pl
Must be at least 25 years old with ID to enter.
Dym (Smoke) C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 13, tel. (+48)
12 429 66 61. Lost in the sauce somewhere between
cafe and bar, Dym is a long, dark drink-den, the dull design
of which is made up for by the character of the clientele:
primaril y sel f-proclaimed artists and intell ectuals that
blow a lot of smoke. How many advances and grants have
been blown here its hard to know, but spend a few nights
at Dym and youre guaranteed to become a character in
at least two unfinished novels. Yes, we were all so full of
promise back then; back before all our ambition and drive
went into drink, we went broke and ended up scribbling for
this rag... Ah, glory days. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 02:00. PGBW
English Football Club D-3, ul. Mikoajska 5, tel. (+48)
12 421 01 49, www.efckrakow.pl. Apparently the number
of punters coming to town demanded it. Quite literally wall-
to-wall football with team shirts hanging off every available
space, three lions on the floor and Sky Sports beaming
down their banal brand of hype and hyperbole. This is noth-
ing less than stag heaven, and as such expect weekends
to be awash with Brit lads bowling around bragging about
last nights prostitute. Real men will take advantage of the
tables out back that come fitted with their own private beer
taps, though they sadly ruined one of the centres best
courtyards, formerly of Klub Re. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Sat
10:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PBXW
Hard Rock Cafe C-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429
11 55, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Sit back enjoying your cock-
tail or beer overlooking the square and the Cloth Hall from
Hard Rocks split level glass bar. The chaps here know how to
make that drink and the smiling faces can sometimes be all
you need after a day facing stern museum curators. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. PAUEGBW
If you believe urban legend (like we do) Krakw has the high-
est density of bars in the world. Simply hundreds of bars
can be found in cellars and courtyards stretching from the
Old Town to Kazimierz and beyond. Keeping them open, of
course, are the thousands of tourists that flock to Krakw
every year, and with higher tourism comes higher prices:
expect to pay 7-10z (2-3 Euros) for a large beer. The open-
ing hours we list are flexible; basically if people are drinking,
the barman is pouring. Below is a list of recommendations
depending on what youre looking for.
Bars & Pubs
Antycafe C-2, ul. Sawkowska 12, www.antycafe.
pl. As tempting as it would be to call Antycafe a hipster
haven, since mocking hipsters is more hip than being one
these days, we wouldnt want to do this fine establishment
that disservice. Between the two full bars on opposite ends
of this 30m long anti-caf, youll find candlelit nooks, ec-
centric art, great music, and a very cool vibe indeed. True
to its name, the alternative atmosphere belies more of an
edgy bar than a quaint caf, and with a great beer selection
and one of the least ostracising smoking sections in the
Old Town, youve all the more reason to occupy a table.
I f you can find a free one, that is. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00.
PEBXW
Baroque C-2, ul. w. Jana 16, tel. (+48) 12 422 01
06, www.baroque.com.pl. Over several rooms of plush
seating, high fashion photographs, dangling chandeliers
and a spacious garden during the warmer part of the year,
Baroque is a sharp, modern space that mixes the new with
the old. Seductively attractive, its range of cocktails is con-
sistently among the best in the city. Choose from knock-out
creations like the Polski Spring Punch or get your head down
and do your best to rip through the 100-plus vodkas on the
list. While Krakws mojito love-affair continues unabated,
Baroques still looks the best and comes in positively huge
portions. After years of being a premier cocktail bar and
restaurant, theyve gone and jumped into the dance scene,
keeping the signature Baroque style, downstairs (Open
Thu, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 03:00). QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 04:00. PAXW
Bomba B-2, Pl. Szczepaski 2/1, tel. (+48) 782
60 19 99. In almost no time at all, this small bar has
managed to establish i tsel f as a cul t hangout thanks
to a simpl e concept few places foll ow anymore: good
musi c and good peopl e equals good times. Unpreten-
ti ous wi th an i nteri or of unfi ni shed wood, bri ck wal l s
and a small upstairs bal cony l evel wi th a great vi ew of
Pl ac Szczepaski, the sol i d gol d pl ayl i st rotates funk
and soul, el ectro, dub-step, hip-hop and pop. QOpen
10:00 - 02:00. AGBW
Budda Drink & Garden C-3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel.
(+48) 12 421 65 22, www.budda-drink.com.pl. To get
the most out of Budda you need to visit in summer when
adjoining courtyard gardens transform into an al fresco
dance arena. On those chillier evenings make for one of
the two the warmly lit crimson interiors on either end of
the courtyard, the one on the right being the better of the
two. Here, drinkers down potent concoctions under the
conceited gaze of gold buddhas illuminated by hundreds
of flickering candles. Check out the unique mezzanine
level for something a little di fferent, while couples suf-
fering a lull in their relationship shoul d choose a cozy
nook and study the wall paintings of randy Indian figures
entwined in Kama Sutra embraces. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00.
PAUBXW
ELITE: Those who want a touch of class will find them-
selves at home in Stalowe Magnolie - an impressively
dressed music venue with premium drinks, or visit Pa-
parazzi and Baroque to engage in the best cocktails
in Krakw debate. Baccarat and Russian Enso are
music clubs for the jet set, while Taawa gives a more
upscale pulse to Kazimierz.
STUDENTS: Not your most discriminating demographic,
students will go anywhere theres fun music and cheap
drinks - namely Gorczka or Ministerstwo, while those
with intent to impress head to Rdza, Frantic and Cien.
LADS: Pod Papugami and Irish MBassy - where
matches are on and the staff are used to boisterous be-
haviour - welcome stag groups, as does Fashion Time, a
popular four floor clubbing complex with plenty of options
and opportunities for an epic night. Alternatively, keep it
civilised inside Irish Pub Nic Nowego, or head to House
Of Beer for upwards of 150 Polish and foreign beers.
COUPLES: Couples looking for some face time should
snuggle in a cosy corner of wita Krowa, hide out inside
a cabinet in Caf Szafe, soak up the karma sutra ambi-
ence of Budda Drink & Garden, converse by candlelight
in Mleczarnia or stay home and listen to Barry White.
HIPSTERS: Take your tight pants and non-prescription
specs to Miejsce, your unfinished novel to Dym, your
photography portfolio to Pauza and your self-destructive
side to Pikny Pies.
Nightlife at a Glance
Certainly there can be no more Cracovian activity than
sitting in the sun in the late afternoon with a beer in your
hand, recounting the events of the night before, making
half-baked travel plans and dreaming up daft art projects
youll never follow though with. In fact some people seem
to have made a living out of such blissful idleness (theyre
called ex-pats). While all of Krakw may seem like a beer
garden in the warmer months, contrary to the evidence
in front of you, it is not legal to drink in public spaces,
whether its the Planty or the Wisa riverbank. Nor should
you need to. With more bars per capita than anywhere
else in Europe, suddenly every single one has a garden
full of patio furniture the first day the sun comes out. So
which to choose? Most tourists will keep to the Market
Square (C-3), and while the views and vibe are super,
the prices are a bit rich. On the squares south-west side
seek out the courtyard of Buddha Bar (Rynek 6, C-3)
where on weekends DJs spin records under the stars.
Other Old Town notables include Ministerstwo (ul. Szpi-
talna 1, C-3), Baroque (ul. w. Jana 16, C-2), Klub Re (D-3,
ul. w. Krzya 4) and Bunkier Cafe (Pl. Szczepaski 3a,
B-2) - a positively huge terrace on the Planty. Track down
to Kazimierz, however to enjoy alfresco drinking at its
best. The bars around Plac Nowy (D-6) are a no-brainer,
but note that Le Scandale (Pl. Nowy 6) has plenty of
space hidden in its courtyard. For the districts most
scenic garden head to Mleczarnia (D-6, ul. Meiselsa
20), and dont forget ul. Szeroka (E-6) - far less lively
than the rest of Kazimierz, but less grubby as well and
catches sun later into the evening.
Beer Gardens
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House Of Beer D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 35 (entrance ul.
Krzya 13), tel. (+48) 794 22 21 36, www.houseofbeer-
krakow.com. House of Beer may be the best of the bars
improving the beer culture of Polands drinking capital, with
over 200 bottles and eight draught beers on hand in this
high ceilinged pub full of dark wooden furnishings and large
leather sofas. Bottles can be a bit pricey, but the local Dragon
(Smok) on draft for 8z is a steal. QOpen 14:00 - 01:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00. PAGW
Irish Mbassy C-3, ul. Stolarska 3, tel. (+48) 12 431
02 21, www.irishmbassy.com. Cheekily stationed in the
midst of Krakws embassy row, the massive Irish MBassy
is a popular place for weekenders and expats to get their
passports punched and forget where they are. Numerous
TV screens beam down live sports over three stories of
original brick and gothic details, punctuated by sponsorship
signage, sports and Irish memorabilia. Absolute madness
during matches, the doe-eyed staff do well to keep track of
the orders fired at them, while a decent line of pub grub -
burgers and baguettes - makes this a one stop solution for a
long night. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00.
PAEGW
Irish Pub Nic Nowego (Nothing New) D-3, ul. w.
Krzya 15, tel. (+48) 12 421 61 88, www.nicnowego.
com. Similar to a cosmopolitan Dublin Bar, the Irish-owned
Nic Nowego continues to serve as the expat communitys
primary source of hangovers. Black-clad candidates for
Miss Polska serve up a wicked array of drinks from behind
a sleek metallic bar, including the best Guinness in Poland,
while Sky Sports keeps a largely foreign audience capti-
vated. And the food goes beyond the quality youd expect
to find in a bar thanks to the owner Tom being a chef by
trade. Handy serving hours mean food is available as long
as they are open, something which has saved our bacon
once or twice. QOpen 07:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 -
03:00. AGBW
Klub Pikarski Poker D-3, ul. Mikoajska 24, tel.
(+48) 12 423 00 30, www.klubpilkarskipoker.pl.
Though the name has you thinking Hold Em, one step
inside makes it plain that this is a football mecca. Turns
out round about the time Poland was j umping of f the
Soviet train to nowhere, a movie was screening around
the country about a nave man caught in the gritty under-
world of high stakes wagering on rigged football matches.
Pikarski Poker has become a bit of a cult film, hence the
name. No poker, but plenty of live football action and an
amazing collection of Polish and other club memorabilia
nailed to the walls. A foosball table and a pitch painted on
the floor complete the effect. Given the insider name, it
draws a mostly young Polish crowd and serves the usual
national beers. QOpen 14:00 - 01:00, Fri 14:00 - 03:00,
Sat 12:30 - 03:00, Sun 12:30 - 01:00. Note that once the
seasonal garden opens, this place will be open every day
from 12:30. ABXW
Klub Re D-3, ul. w. Krzya 4, tel. (+48) 12 431 08
81, www.klubre.pl. Your standard Cracovian cellar bar
in most respects, Re is a stand-out for two reasons. The
first is its success in bringing touring international acts to
Krakw: some of the citys most exciting and memorable
concerts happen at this small venue, including contemporary
indy bands from home and abroad. The second is its tree-
lined beer garden, which despite encroachment from the
neighbouring English Football Club, still ranks as one of the
best in town in the wamrer months. Check the (Polish-only)
website for information on future events. QOpen 12:00 -
02:00. PEBXW
Opera Cafe Pub Restaurant C-2, ul. w. Jana 10,
tel. (+48) 12 422 02 01, www.operakrakow.pl. Gallons
of purple and futuristic glass booths upstairs make Opera a
refreshing alternative to the tried and stale dcor formulas.
The staff are tremendously friendly to the point that theyll
give you directions to another bar even if you dont buy a
drink. Now thats service. The music is cool and laid-back,
complementing the equally sophisticated back room and its
rather astonishing chandelier. As well as an impressive array
of cocktails, eats are in focus with a short but growing menu
that guided our eye and gilded our sweet tooth with its rich
desserts. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 04:00. PABXW
Paparazzi D-3, ul. Mikoajska 9, tel. (+48) 12 429
45 97, www.paparazzi.com.pl. Krakw cocktail culture
started here. A long, narrow space plastered with candid
pics of celebs practicing their pout, Paparazzis cocktail list
is second to none and this remains first choice for anyone
looking to clinch deals over invigorating concoctions fixed by a
team of specialists. Two TVs playing sports and Murphys on
tap add to the overall appeal of this celebration of celebrity.
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. PAXW
Pauza C-2, ul. Floriaska 18/3, tel. (+48) 12 422 48 66,
www.pauza.pl. One of the trendiest drinking dens in the Old
Town, head to this unmarked first floor bar to feel like youre in
the know. Full of stylish haircuts and sexy dresses, Pauza twins
as a photography gallery with perfectly illuminated high-quality
exhibitions, making the hipsters feel justifiably art-smart.
Furnishings are modern with low loveseats and stools and
some enviable tables in the windows overlooking Floriaska.
Despite an atrocious queue for the toilet and typically trendy
house music, this is one of the best hangout spots in the Old
Town. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. IXW
Let us
invite you
The casual fun style sports bar offers
9 plasma screens featuring the most
exciting sport events. The unique
atmosphere and delicious tex-mex
cuisine, scrummy cocktails, drinks and
professional staff make SomePlace
Else a perfect place to relax and enjoy
time with your family, friends, business
partners and sport fun.
Let us invite you for a Journey through
world stadiums, courses and halls
because life is better when shared.
sheraton.com/krakow
ul. Powile 7
31-101 Krakw
t +48 12 662 1670
Let us
invite you
The casual fun style sports bar offers
9 plasma screens featuring the most
exciting sport events. The unique
atmosphere and delicious tex-mex
cuisine, scrummy cocktails, drinks and
professional staff make SomePlace
Else a perfect place to relax and enjoy
time with your family, friends, business
partners and sport fun.
Let us invite you for a Journey through
world stadiums, courses and halls
because life is better when shared.
sheraton.com/krakow
ul. Powile 7
31-101 Krakw
t +48 12 662 1670
ul. w. Jana 18, Tel. 012 422 61 01, 012 422 82 99, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl
Open: Mon Sun 12.00 Till the last guest
Irish Pub
Certified quality Guinness,
a wide range of whiskey,
live Irish music and live
sports on a big screen in
a great atmosphere in one
of Krakows oldest and
biggest pubs.
f7ZREDUV
f3RROf'DUWV
f6.<z79
(All matches shown)
The Best
Guinness
in Poland!!!
Awarded rst place for quality in
Polands Guinness Competition.
Pod Papugami Irish Pub C-2, ul. w. Jana 18, tel.
(+48) 12 422 61 01, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl.
After a couple of refurbs, Pod Papugami has doubled its
capacity, the upstairs has been beset by some fake brick
finishing and brightened a bit, and though it may have lost
some character, generally it now feels less like youre doing
your drinking inside an ephysemic lung than previously (not
a bad trade-off). Over two levels full of wooden fittings, Irish
bric-a-brac, a billiards table, darts, plasma screens streaming
sports, fresh baked pizza and pints of Murphys, Guinness,
Kilkenny and Stowford Press cider, Pod Papugami has a
friendly sociable atmosphere beloved by lads and gentle-
men alike. A great place to meet people and find out just
what exactly the craic is, PP actually captures everything
we like about being in an Irish bar. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.
PAUX
Poligamia E-4, ul. Dietla 97, tel. (+48) 793 64 04 46,
www.poligamia.com.pl. Liberally packed with a mix of
foreigners and foreign-friendly folks, this modern upstairs
bar is good place to mingle is youre feeling overwhelmed
by your lack of local language skills. Sleek, stylish and full
of steamy photos, Polygamy features the longest bar in
Krakw to prop your elbows on, plus over 40 varieties of beer
including local microbrews and foreign ales. There are also
several TVs if you and the lads are looking for someplace a
bit different to catch the match; consider reserving a table
if its a weekend. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 15:00
- 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. AXW
QUBE A-5, ul. Powile 7 (Sheraton Krakw Hotel),
tel. (+48) 12 662 16 74, www.sheraton.com.pl/
krakow. Located in the Sheratons magni ficent showpiece
atrium, QUBE is as sexy a spot as youll find for a drink
in Krakw, as youll notice from the glass ceiling many
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dance floor packed with fun-loving revelers young enough
to enjoy the irony. I guess you can count us among them,
because we had a great time. QOpen 17:00 - 04:00, Fri,
Sat 17:00 - 05:00. PAXW
Stary Port (The Old Port) B-3, ul. Straszewskiego
27 (entrance from ul. Jabonowskich), tel. (+48) 12
430 09 62, www.staryport.com.pl/krakow. Krakows
only sailor bar could be best described in three words only:
Never-ending drunken singalong. This candlelit ship-in-a-
bottle is packed full of students and seamen on permanent
shore-leave and the selkies, sirens and sea-wenches that
love them. Surrounded by nautical knick-knacks, salty,
sea-creased musicians sing shanties into the wee hours
(particularly Thursday to Saturday) and fellowship is found
at the bottom of every bottle. Our favourite pub/plank to
walk. Fetch aft the rum, Marcin! QOpen 09:00 - 01:00,
Thu, Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 -
01:00. AEXW
wita Krowa (The Holy Cow) C-2, ul. Floriaska
16, tel. (+48) 12 426 01 18, www.swietakrowa.
com. Perhaps the most enchanting and laidback bar in
the Old Town, wita Krowa is an intoxicating alchemic
elixir of alcohol, incense, candlelight, cloves and ambient
eastern grooves. Hidden in a small, soul ful brick cellar
off Floriaska, The Hol y Cow inhabi ts two oriental si t-
ting rooms slung with prayer flags, low cushioned stools
and two lofted lounge areas. Amiable barmen conjure a
range of invigorating alcohol infusions and in winter this
is the perfect hideaway for a hot krupnik (and maybe an
opium nap). We miss the terrarium, but wita Krowa is
still a highly recommended cult hangout. QOpen 12:00
- 03:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. Open hours subject to
change. XW
w w w . n i c n o w e g o . c o m
Irish bar
Nic Nowego
The One and Only 100% Irish
Owned Bar and Restaurant
People ask Why Nic Nowego ... Well, with over 300
bars and restaurants in the Old Town of Krakow we
decided on something a little different the bar with
Irish owner and Polish name that has been serving the
Local Community and Tourists alike for the last 8 years.
Here you find service with a smile, the best pint of
guinness outside of Dublin and all day breakfast
to die for. You are welcome -
modern Irish bar Nic Nowego
ul. w. Krzya 15, 31-028 Krakw
tel.: 12-421-61-88
Mon - Fri 7:00 - 3:00, Sat - Sun 9:00 - 3:00
nicnowego@yahoo.com
Clubs
With roughly 120,000 students and a growing tourist industry
egging it on, Krakws club scene continues to expand beyond
reason, with each successive offing trying to out-swank its
predecessor. The main hedonist high streets are Floriaska
(C-2/3) and Szewska (B-3) where narry a medieval cellar will be
left unthronged by sexed-up students on a Friday or Saturday
night. Dont be surprised to encounter weekend cover charges
ranging anywhere from 5-20z at most venues, and dont
expect to find toilet paper in any of them after 22:00. For the
specifics of whats on daily visit krakow.inyourpocket.com
and check out our Events Calendar - giving you a breakdown
of all the evenings club nights with one click. Clubs in the
Kazimierz district appear in their own section.
Baccarat C-3, ul. Stolarska 13, tel. (+48) 695 11 67 60,
www.baccaratclub.pl. Walk beyond the velvet rope of Baccarat
and you notice one thing immediately: a lot of money has been
spent on making this arguably the most stylish and extravagant
music club in Krakw. Covered in plush upholstery and full of fine
touches including every elegant chandelier and lamp, the giant
mirrorball DJ station, and even a room with a dance-pole and
wall-size mirror that can be coyly curtained off, Baccarat clearly
raises the bar on Krakws nightlife scene. Though theyve since
added a smoking room, this swanky swish tank was the first
to go completely non-smoking in the days of the dingy Krakw
cellar club, which might explain why it still looks as great as ever.
Expect to pay a small cover after 23:00. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PAEX
Baroque C-2, ul. w. Jana 16, tel. (+48) 12 422 01 06,
www.baroque.com.pl. The addition of this upscale cellar
club to one of the Old Towns top pre-party destinations will
save lucky Lotharios the legwork of looking for your dance-floor
larks elsewhere, and the incomparable drinks from the upstairs
cocktail bar send plenty of tipsy vixens spilling straight down into
this sultry spider-web. Covering great food, vodka, cocktails, an
outdoor garden and now DJ parties, Baroque is one of the most
complete venues in town and almost unmissable for anyone who
views modernity as maturity and sexiness as sophistication.
QOpen 21:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PAXW
Cie (Shadow) C-2, ul. w. Jana 15, tel. (+48) 12 422
21 77, www.cienklub.com. One of Krakws best clubs for
several years running, Cie is a wet dream for foreign lads weaned
on commercial house music and enjoying favourable exchange
rates while being fawned over by bombshell blondes who make
a sport of their sex appeal. It may be all smoke, mirrors and false
phone numbers under the interrogation lamp of the morning, but
witness yourself scrambling back for more. More posturing than
truly exclusive, your impatience with the door queue is the most
likely thing to keep you out of Cies dark medieval cellars, as
long as youve made the effort to look the part and can stand up
straight. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PAXW
Coco Music Club D-2, ul. Szpitalna 38, tel. (+48)
12 429 69 83, www.clubcoco.pl. Across from Sowacki
Theatre in the space formerly occupied by Midgard, Coco has
come and glammed the place up a bit with creme-coloured
sofas, plenty of mirrors and Fashion TV, but with half the club
given over to smokers, it doesnt take long for the primary
design features to seem like cig burns and sticky floors.
When the music is more interesting and challenging early on,
the sexy crowd sometimes seems at a loss; however this
popular student club really takes flight after midnight, with
a heady mix of locals and foreigners mingling on the dance-
floor and around the booths until early morning. A solid bet
for a successful night. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon,
Tue, Sun. PAEXW
Aromatic hookahs
Stylish interiors
Oriental music
Air conditioning
Belly Dancing Shows
on Fri&Sat nights
Drink bar
Krakw, May Rynek 2
phone: 12 421 64 98
www.shisha.pl
stories above and the beauti ful waitresses gliding around
dispatching cocktails fixed by the expert barstaff. QUBEs
real claim to fame however is the 200 brands of vodka,
served not on ice, but in special shotglasses made of
ice - a fantastic way to introduce yoursel f to one of PLs
leading exports (after wives, cheap labour, moustaches
and machinery). QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 -
02:00. PAUGW
SomePlace Else A- 5, ul. Powi le 7 (Sheraton
Krakw Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 662 16 70, krakow.
someplace-else.pl. Nine plasma screens for live sports,
friendly staff and a quality menu of bar eats that steers
towards the Tex-Mex end of the spectrum make SPE an
easy place to witness your down time overpower what-
ever itinerary you thought you had in Krakw. The list of
worl d beers goes above and beyond the usual choi ce
of local liquids, and the American interior is a combo of
Yank road signs and pics of rocknroll heroes. Though
not open late, this low-key expat and itinerants bar is still
your best bet for convincing the staff to help you watch
your favourite MLB, NFL or NBA team in action. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 -
01:00. PAUXW
Spoem C-2, ul. w. Tomasza 4, tel. (+48) 12 421
79 79, www.pubspolem.pl. Cheekil y borrowing their
name from a cooperative network of shops proli fic across
Poland during communist times (many of which are still
open), Spoems underground cellars are cluttered with
communist-era appliances and plastered with propaganda
posters and discontinued banknotes. The Soviet-nostalgia
also applies to the smokey atmosphere and the kitsch
Polish pop/disco parties held in the back room where the
DJ station is cleverly tucked into a Soviet-era truck and the
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Diva Music Gallery C-3, ul. w. Tomasza 20, tel. (+48)
12 429 20 66, www.divaclub.pl. A young fashionistas
idea of paradise, Diva unfolds over two levels: the sexy cellar
club full of disco balls and laser beams, leather divans and
scantily-clad sirens beyond the red velvet rope, and the new
ground floor cocktail lounge for those who dont make it past
the pretentious face control. The former makes for a fun place
to mingle with coquettish calendar girls between pretending
to enjoy dancing to soulless electro music, while the latter is
a better daytime destination for being seen with an expensive
cocktail before swanking off to your own self-image in one
of the many mirrors suspended on the walls. On weekends
prepare to dispense some cash to get downstairs. QOpen
11:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. PAUEBXW
Fashion Time A-5, ul. Kociuszki 3, tel. (+48) 725 70
02 15, www.krakow.fashiontime.pl. With four floors of
sleek black walls and plush surfaces, Fashion Time lives up to
the hype of being Krakws largest club by having a full house,
despite the hassle it is to get in. With plenty of fine touches,
including enormous chandeliers, Renaissance reproduction
wallpaper and a cascading water wall behind the ground floor
bar, Fashion Time looks the part and plays it well with the sheer
volume of people diluting any inclinations towards snobbery;
in fact youd be wise to reserve a table. The music is hardly
groundbreaking, but you have three dance-floors with differ-
ent music to choose from; ascend to the top smoking floor to
watch on screen whats happening on each of them. QOpen
21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PAXW
Frantic C-3, ul. Szewska 5, tel. (+48) 12 423 04 83, www.
frantic.pl. Dance alongside hourglass figures in what asserts
itself as one of Krakws best clubs/meat markets. The design
is your typical Cracovian cellar contrast of rough exposed rock,
modern-minimal decor and illuminated boxes, but the sound-
system lures some of the best DJs around to put together a
regular programme of top parties for Polish pussycats and their
savvy suitors. A feast of flesh and fast times for those with well-
rehearsed chat-up lines eager to jump inside the cats pajamas.
QOpen 22:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAXW
Gorczka (Fever) B-3, ul. Szewska 7, tel. (+48) 12
421 92 61. This main line meatmarket is full of eager
students, men with wandering hands, sweaty couples mak-
ing out and an overabundance of dudes with spikey hair. If
you arent keen to dance theres really no place to hide in
this relatively small cellar club where extremely loud music
is managed by quality DJs keeping the flesh in friction with
proven dance hits rather than whatever rubbish they think
is popular in London right now. Its a playful atmosphere and
youre guaranteed to have a drink spilled on you, but none-
theless, youve got every reason to feel bad about yourself
if youre heading home alone. Be prepared to show ID and
dont be surprised to see a streetfight out front. QOpen
17:00 - 02:30, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. PAX
Ministerstwo (The Ministry) C-3, ul. Szpitalna 1,
tel. (+48) 12 421 12 17, www.klubministerstwo.pl.
A well-loved design in this subterranean sinners resort
features lots of tile, gold brick, exposed rock, three bars,
two DJ stations and raised seating areas to retreat from the
dancefloor action where an eclectic range of funk, old school
and break beats are likely to lure you. The smell of Tabasco
from mad dog shots lingers at the bar where bronze ass-
groping barstools give you a free frisking. Always packed with
students and party people, Ministerstwo hosts the citys best
midweek party on otherwise sleepy Tuesday nights and the
laidback ground-floor garden is one of the best kept secrets
in Krakw during the warmer months. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00,
Tue, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. PABXW
Plaa Krakw (Krakw Beach) I-4, ul. Ludwinowska
2, tel. (+48) 530 95 03 03, www.plazakrakow.com.pl.
The citys trendiest new party destination also has one of
its most envied locations: across from Wawel Castle, smack
on the beach. Okay, Ibiza this aint, but artificial or not Plaa
Krakw has been generating buzz since it opened for the
first time last summer. After the sun goes down, the DJs pick
up the party, catering to a different crowd every night with
everything from house to 70s hits in this simple but stylish
open-air club full of low white sofas and bouncing beach bod-
ies. Q Open from April 15, 20:00 - 04:00. AUGBW
Rdza (Rust) C-3, ul. Bracka 3-5, tel. (+48) 600 39 55
41. This cave-like basement with a door queue rates as one
of the best clubs on call in Krakw. Look your best to make
it past face control then take your place on the dance floor
alongside delicious looking party creatures. Imported DJs
and the cream of Polish house music keep the party rocking
into silly oclock. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
PAGBW
Russian Enso A-1, ul. Karmelicka 52, tel. (+48) 12
633 65 20, www.russianenso.pl. After a restyling and
curious renaming, the new Russian Enso has used the
surprise inspiration of Moscow style to make an aesthetic
transition from slightly gaudy, trendy and futuristic-looking to
tastefully luxurious, sensual and organically ornate (scratch
head, shrug shoulders). The brilliant design combines mod-
ern chic with old world couture in a palate of red, black and
gold that features plush satin cushions and leather walls.
The highlight is the circular salon with a twisting golden tree
spreading its roots across a ceiling textured to look like
topsoil - a unique design element also oddly applied above
the dancefloor. Despite being off the beaten path, Russian
Enso has attracted Krakws burgeoning jet set and their
high-heeled arm candy with a top-notch sound system, epic
parties and expert cocktails. Open Thurs to Sat only, a new
restaurant on the ground floor now serves tasty fusion food
as long as the club is kicking off. Recommended. QOpen
21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PABXW
Shisha Club C-3, May Rynek 2, tel. (+48) 12 421 64
98, www.shisha.pl. A Tunisian-owned den of oriental exotica,
Shisha Clubs cup runneth over with draped fabrics, oriental
rugs, stained glass lanterns, colourful cushions and intricate
tiles. Navigate an underground labyrinth of rooms with names
like Sultans Chamber and Shishas Bazaar before settling
down in the plush nook of your choice and selecting from a
long list of aromatic tobaccos, drinks and even some Mediter-
ranean dishes. Ideal for a quiet make out with your significant
other, a sedated evening with friends, or if your crowd turns
up for one of the weekend belly dancing performances, you
might just find the absurdity of the setting to be infectiously
fun. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. PJAX
Stalowe Magnolie (Steel Magnolias) C-2, ul. w.
Jana 15, tel. (+48) 12 422 84 72, www.stalowem-
agnolie.com. Not dissimilar to a 1920s Parisian brothel,
the interior of this legendary venue is an appealing blend
of scarlet fabrics and deep sofas, with jewel-encrusted
pictureframes and strings of red fairy lights hanging from
wrought iron fixtures. Instruments cling to the walls as a team
of young waitresses in evening dress bring premium-priced
drinks to your table. The live music is frequently outstanding,
with velvet-voiced chanteuses crooning into the night to the
appreciative applause of sharply attired couples and Rolexed
businessmen. A club card gets you into the VIP section with
its own DJ station and bar, where plush, silk-canopied beds
forbid bashful behavior. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
19:00 - 04:00. PAEX
Night Club 66 J-1, Al. 29 Listopada 165, tel. (+48)
12 418 16 50, www.nightclub66.pl. While a few night-
clubs around the Old Town have become downright dodgy of
late, this discreet pleasure den north of the centre doesnt
pull any punches. Ogle playful stripteases as multiple vixens
grace the oddly, shall we say, amoeba-shaped stage at the
same time, eager to undress each other; Pole-on-pole ac-
tion at its best. Laid out over two 200m levels, the decor is a
screwy mix of odd lighting and organic shapes and guarded
parking ensures your wife doesnt take a golf club to the
family car. Beer and booze start at 9z and there are a variety
of private dances available; for more of an idea, check out
the film on 66s website: skintillating. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00. PAX
Taboo Gentlemens Club C-2, ul. Floriaska 33
(entrance from ul. w. Marka), tel. (+48) 12 426
26 06, www.tabooclub.pl. There was a time when
Krakows gentlemens clubs were relegated to the outer
limits and the grey areas of its urban grid (you know,
Dietla Street, around the train station). Whether you view
this as a good or bad thing, Taboo has been allowed to
set a new precedent by becoming the most centrally
located strip club in the Old Town. Find leather couches
to lounge on alongside ladies in lingerie, sculptures of
naked women holding up glass tabletops to set your
drink on and six curtained VIP rooms for privacy. Gone,
it would seem, are the days when the kebab stand was
the sauciest stop on a Floriaska pub crawl and honestly,
could it really be Poland without Pole dancing? QOpen
20:00 - 06:00. PAXW
Adult Entertainment
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75
KAZIMIERZ NIGHTLIFE KAZIMIERZ NIGHTLIFE
Kazimierz Bars
Alchemia E-6, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 22 00,
www.alchemia.com.pl. One of Krakws most evocative
bars, aptly-named Alchemia perfectly captures the sepia
candlelight, forgotten photographs and antique intrigues
of the former Jewish district. A dim bohemian cafe by day
with square-side outdoor tables, in the evenings Alchemias
murky mystique metamorphoses blood into beer for the
ruddy regulars and increasing number of tourists queuing
before the indi fferent barstaff. The cellar, when its not
being used as a student disco, plays host to some of the
best concerts in town and is a prime participant in annual
jazz and klezmer festivals. Quintessential Krakw. QOpen
09:00 - 02:00, Mon 10:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00.
AEBXW
BeerGallery - Kazimierz E-6, ul. Warszauera 10, tel.
(+48) 601 40 88 70, www.beergallery.pl. A beguiling
jamboree of reproduction 18th-century furniture and cutting-
edge dcor sets the stage for a friendly affair populated by
chirpy locals and over 100 beers including the fabulous La
Trappe and Kozel to name but a couple of tipples. Upbeat,
and including the addition of a small dance floor towards
the back, this is what Kazimierz was invented for. A splendid
option for lovers of a good night out, especially those who
appreciate their ale. Another location in the Old Town at
ul. Dominikaska 3 (C-4). QOpen 15:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 01:00. PUEGW
Eszeweria D- 6, ul. Jzefa 9, tel. (+48) 517 49 19
27, www.myspace.com/eszeweria. Though seemingly
oxymoronic, Eszeweria actually thrives thanks to the stew-
ardship of ambitious, music-loving bohemians. Perhaps
embodying the spirit of Kazimierz more than any bar not
directly on Plac Nowy, Eszewerias old world antiques, can-
dleabras, frosty mirrors and murky, stencilled walls play host
to some of the citys most novel concerts, having become
the go-to contact for overseas artists slumming around
Europe. Though the stage (or lack thereof) is awkward, the
atmosphere is intimate and friendly, and the restroom may
be the most romantic in town (no wonder theres a queue).
Smoker-friendly and recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. BXW
Kawiarnia Naukowa E-6, ul. Jakuba 29-31, tel. (+48)
602 10 35 26, www.myspace.com/kawiarnianaukowa.
More Kazimierz weirdness dished up inside a blackened
room decorated with flagstones and a tombstone-style
table. The live music and DJ sets are totally bonkers, and
more than compensate for what is otherwise a standard
dive. Everyones welcome, but if you really want to fit in get
your nose pierced, shred your stockings and stagger around
a bit. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00. PUEXW
Krlicze Oczy (Rabbit Eyes) D-6, ul. Estery 14, tel.
(+48) 12 431 10 31. Combining that quintessential Ka-
zimierz aesthetic of tarnished beauty with a strange sense
of sinister absurdity, spending too much time in this veteran
vodka wallow - with its excellent year-round patio - will have
you feeling like you inhaled too much of the Jokers goofy
gas. Sepia portraits of interwar nudes with red eyes line
the walls, strings of glass beads hang over each doorway,
broken-spined books lie on a trolley and, for good measure,
a comedy wig and a pair of rabbit ears dangle next to the
bar. Completely random and removed from reality, this small
standby is as good a rabbit-hole to go down as any; good
luck wiping that smile off your face. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00,
Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.
AGW
Le Scandale D-6, Pl. Nowy 9, tel. (+48) 12 430 68
55, www.lescandale.pl. Some of the best cocktails in
Krakw - test the Bahama Mama - served inside a series
of sleek rooms that throng with Bond girls and people who
look like they may well be minor celebs. Great fusion food,
an enormous garden (heated in winter) and sexy service,
this is modern Krakw at its strongest. You may not want
to leave. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00.
PAUEBXW
Les Couleurs D-6, ul. Estery 10, tel. (+48) 12 429 42
70. The quintessential thinking mans cafe, Les Couleurs
is a special favourite among Krakws aging, dog-faced
bohemians, androgynous hipsters who wear oversized,
non-prescription glasses and anyone with a laptop. Plastered
with classic French posters and photos of Serge Gainsbourg,
Kazimierzs most well-lit bar - and one of its most well-loved
- is an anytime affair where cigarettes, coffee, beer, bile and
blood are as interchangable and easily confused as work,
pleasure and art; as day and night. Recommended. QOpen
07:00 - 01:00, Fri 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun
08:00 - 24:00. UBXW
Miejsce (The Place) D-6, ul. Estery 1, tel. (+48) 608
49 87 37, www.miejsce.com.pl. Opened by the owners
of a retro interior decor store by the same name, Miejsce
instantly established itself as Krakws hipster headquar-
ters. With half the patrons not hesitating to go behind the
bar themselves, here youve put yourself at the centre of a
closely-knit social scene, which a flapper dress or oversized
spectacles and tight pants will ease your integration into, if
thats the goal. Decked out in a rainbow of chairs and lamps
of different shapes and sizes, offset by hastily painted white
walls and fantastic Polish film posters, Miejsce is effortlessly
original with a post-industrial artsy atmosphere that makes
a nice departure from the brooding, gloomy nostalgia of the
districts other offerings. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 02:00. AUBXW
Migawka D-7, ul. Krakowska 27, tel. (+48) 512 33
12 45. With Lokator turning its focus solely to the publish-
ing business, the former managers mother has kept the
old space alive as Migawka, without having lost any of the
creative commitment or community that made the old place
special. A veritable independent culture centre for art, film
and music (check their facebook page for events), this laid-
back smoker-friendly cafe/bar features red walls covered in
silk-screened prints by local artists, an upright piano and an
especially dark and mysterious beer garden (seasonal only).
Recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. BXW
Mleczarnia D-6, ul. Meiselsa 20, tel. (+48) 12 421 85
32, www.mle.pl. The most glorious beer graden in Krakw
(open 10:00-22:30; Fri, Sat 10:00-00:30), and right next to
an easily recognisable film set from Spielbergs Schindlers
List. If that parade gets rained on, take solace in the cross
street interior with an Old World atmosphere of candlelight,
rickety furniture, murky portraits, wooden floors and wide-
open, floor to ceiling street-side windows (not to mention the
enchanting bathroom). A great place for a romantic evening
conversation or afternoon coffee with a book, this is what
the whole of Kazimierz was once about: taking things as
they come. Recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 04:00. AUGBW
Moment Resto E-6, ul. Jzefa 26, tel. (+48) 668 03
40 00, www.momentcafe.pl. From locals to tourists,
laptoppers to hipsters, they take all kinds in Moment and
seem to know how to please them all. The interior has re-
cently swapped high, sturdy tables for low, loungy sofas with
When the steady revitalisation of Krakws former Jewish
district began back in the nineties, much of the investment
came from business owners able to purchase derelict build-
ings, fill them with the curbside detritus pervading the area
that passes for furniture, add a shelf of liquers and presto!
- open a dark, dishevelled bar that perfectly captured the
spirit of the neighbourhood. The district quickly became
synonymous with cafes choked with smoke, candlelight,
antiques and bohemians, where under the stewardship of
alcohol one might be able to commune with a lost, forgotten
world beneath the haze. As the areas clean-up, aided by the
1993 release of Schindlers List, brought more and more
tourists to its historical sights, Kazimierz went through a
renaissance that saw it quickly develop into the citys hip-
pest neighbourhood. Today the area is chock-a-block with
bars, clubs and restaurants, even ousting the Old Town per
square metre, and though a trace of that original charisma
vanishes with each new cocktail bar opening, there is no
better place in Krakw for a night out. Kazimierzs history
makes it a requisite stop for tourists, but it is the districts
nightlife that gives it its true vitality and much of the mystique
it still carries today.
splashy fabrics, and though its not really an improvement (in
fact it now just looks like an extension of Nova next door),
the menu is better than ever with bargain breakfasts, Italian
appetisers, wraps, salads and a range of larger entrees.
Plenty of Plac Nowy seating and evening drink specials are
yet more reasons why Moment has become a popular place
to lose track of time, not to mention the clutch of inaccurate
vintage clocks lining the walls, giving you a handy excuse
for missing your next day rendezvous with last nights club
conquest. Though this would be an ideal place for it. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. PAGBW
Omerta D- 6, ul. Warszauera 3 (entrance from ul.
Kupa), tel. (+48) 501 50 82 27, www.omerta.com.
pl. A cult hangout for local beer connoisseurs, Omerta has
expanded to include more tables, a second bar and even
more delicious drink options, making it harder than ever to
resist this sociable pub. Despite a somewhat tired mafia
theme replete with pics and quotes from The Godfather,
Omerta makes up for the lack of originality with one of the
best beer lists in town. The decisions begin with foreign or
domestic - the answer to which informs which bar to hedge up
to and receive an impressive menu of almost 50+ ales broken
down by category and even ranked for you; discover the joy
of miodowe (honey beer) among others. Well-tempered
locals create an ace atmosphere and repeat visits are
inevitable and encouraged. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
16:00 - 01:00. UGW
Propaganda E- 6, ul. Miodowa 20, tel. (+48) 600
33 19 22. The interior is a dingy museum of curbside
communist scrap, from propaganda posters and slashed
portraits of Lenin to clunky cameras and chunky radios. As
rough around the edges as its clientele, theres no lack of
menace to the mainstays at the bar and you should probably
put your galoshes on before entering the toilets. The Polish
punk, ska and metal on airplay represents the taste of the
sturdy, tattooed barstaff who wont hesitate to throw you
across the room if provoked, yet we cant help but love this
completely unpredictable hole-in-the-head dive bar. QOpen
12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. AXW
Singer D-6, ul. Izaaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 06 22. One
of the first bars in Kazimierz, Singer set the table for all that
was to come essentially inventing the evocative aesthetic
of cracked mirrors, dusky paintings, rickety antiques and
candlelight associated with the district today. Despite its
long tenure, lofty reputation and occassional intrusion of
tourists, today Singer still holds all the magic it did when
it first opened. A charismatic, even chimerical cafe by day,
Singer hits its stride around 3 am when tabletops turn into
dancefloors, the regulars abandon their drinks to dip and
spin each other to an energetic mix of gypsy, klezmer and
other ethnic music, the entire bar begins to feel like a ferris
wheel ready to fly off its axis and the boundaries of time are
obliterated. Yeah, weve had a few good ones here. QOpen
09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. PAUBXW
Zaraz Wracam (Back in a Moment) D-6, ul. Boego
Ciaa 11, tel. (+48) 12 628 75 11, www.zarazwracam.
com. A generally unassuming, pretentionless student bar,
Zaraz Wracam seems to generate plenty of atmosphere
without trying very hard. Despite its short tenure in Kazimierz,
the bar has a very local feel as people who care more about
who theyre with than where they are commiserate around
the wooden furnishings under random photos on red peeling
walls. Oddly refreshing for a district which feels like its start-
ing to lose its sense of self with each passing bar opening.
Also on ul. Miodowa 51a (E-6, open 15:00-02:00). QOpen
15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 02:00. AUG
Literki E-5, ul. Berka Joselewicza 21, www.bar-
literki.pl. Down a strange alleyway (which also leads
to Goodbye Lenin Hostel) youll find this eclectic club
hidden in an old factory workshop. Embracing the nature
of the location, Literki is a huge industrial space over
two floors with a caged in balcony, a small dance-floor/
concert space with a thundering sound system, dark
lighting (indeed the brightest lights in the club illuminate
the drinks case) and some sharp iconic graphic art on the
walls depicting screws, gears and other recognisable in-
dustrial garbage. With great Polish and Czech microbrews
behind the bar, this curious cult venue is definitely worth
the trek, but their events and parties are so diverse we
cant tell you what to expect; check their webpage to find
out the flavour of the day. QOpen 19:00 - 01:00, Thu
19:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. EXW
Pozytywka (The Music Box) D-6, ul. Boego
Ciaa 12, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 82, www.pozytywka.
pl. Completely un-Kazimierz in design, a stark, modern,
industrial motif comes paired with classic dance music
and red, blue and green disco lights. The posh upstairs,
with projections, exhibitions and charisma, is a popular
pre-club spot where you can relax before gaining the
liquid courage to head down to the dancefloor and show
off your moves in the large basement. A fun, friendly and
casual club, smoking is permitted on weekends only,
while on Weds and Sat afternoons a fortune-teller does
tarot readings (in Polish only) upstairs. QOpen 10:00 -
23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. PAW
Taawa D-6, ul. Estery 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 06 00,
www.taawa.pl. Orange-skinned mini-skirted solarium
casualties will feel at home in this modern discotheque
that is clearly bringing a pretentious clubbing vibe into
this most unpretentious of neighborhoods. Carpeting,
illuminated glass tables and purple leather furnishings
round out this refreshingly one room affair where long-
legged lookers dance to disappointingly mainstream
music. Looking to outclass Krakws other clubs, Taawa
succeeds easily, especially in design, with strict face-
check and dress code. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PAX
Kazimierz Clubs
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77
HISTORY HISTORY
One of oldest cities in Poland, archaeo-
logical evidence proves that there
were settlements in the Krakw area
as early as the Palaeolithic period, with
stone tools found on Wawel Hill dating
back - way, way back - to 50,000BC.
Legend attributes the citys founding
to Krakus, the mythical ruler who
vanquished the Wawel Dragon. The
mysterious earthwork Mounds named
after Krakus and his daughter Wanda,
located in the Podgrze and Nowa
Huta distri cts respecti vel y, were
probably built in the 7th century. However, historians date the
settlement of Krakws Old Town slightly later in the 8th century,
when it was the capital of a tribe of pagan Slavs known as the
Vistulans. By 966, the date of the first written record of the
citys name, Krakw had already grown into a busy commercial
centre, thanks in part to the amber trade.
In the late 9th century the region was ruled by the Moravians,
passing shortly thereafter to Bohemian rule before being
incorporated into the principality of the Piast dynasty in the
990s, thus creating the Kingdom of Poland. The city devel-
oped rapidly, acquiring its own bishopric in 1000, and in 1038
Krakw became the capital of Poland, with Wawel Royal Castle
becoming the residence of Polish kings. The 13th century was
marked by incessant Mongol invasions, the first occurring in
1241 when the city was almost entirely destroyed, but it was
dutifully rebuilt in time to be ravaged again in 1259 and 1287.
Following this last embarrassment, the city was surrounded
by 3 kilometres of defensive walls, towers and gates which
would be modernised over the next few centuries.
Krakw particularly flourished under the rule of Kazimierz
the Great (1333-1370), who expanded Wawel Castle and
established two new cities - Kleparz and Kazimierz - which
were closely connected with and would later be incorporated
into Krakw. A huge patron of the arts and sciences, in 1364
he founded the Krakw Academy, now known as Jagiellonian
University - one of the oldest institutions of higher learning in
Europe. Prosperity continued during the joint Polish-Lithuanian
Jagiello dynasty (1386-1572) as Krakw experienced its
golden age. Talented artists, humanists and scientists arrived
from Renaissance Italy and Germany to create impressive new
buildings, sculptures, frescos and other artworks and Wawel
Castle was turned into a pearl of Renaissance architecture.
However, after several centuries of roaring times the citys
fortunes began to turn with the death of King Zygmunt II in
1572, who left no heir. With the throne passing to the Swed-
ish House of Vasa, Krakws importance began to decline,
resulting in Sigismund IIIs decision to move the Polish capital
to Warsaw in 1596; however Krakw maintained its role as
the official site of royal coronations and burials.
The 17th century was marked by the pillaging of the Swedish
Invasion (1655) and a bout with the Black Death that claimed
20,000 residents. In the late 18th century, Poland passed
the worlds second democratic constitution (after the US)
on May 3, 1791, however only days later the countrys more
militarised and expansionist-minded neighbours Russia,
Prussia and Austria invaded and imposed the First Partition of
Poland (1772-73) on the weakened country; a second partition
transpired twenty years later. Krakw developed a reputa-
tion as a bastion of rebellion against foreign invaders and in
1794, Polish freedom-fighter Tadeusz Kociuszko initiated his
famous Insurrection on Krakws market square; it eventually
failed and the Prussians soon stepped into the city to loot the
entire royal treasury. Poland was partitioned a third time (1795)
and Krakw became part of the Austrian province of Galicia.
Thanks to Napoleon, the city flirted with various forms
of semi-independence from 1809 to 1846 before being
absorbed back into Austria. Under Austrian occupation
Krakws fortified city walls were levelled - with the notable
exceptions of the section around the Floriaska Gate and
the Barbican - and the Planty park was created where they
once stood. Austrian rule was more lenient than that imposed
in the Russian and Prussian-ruled partitions and as a result
Krakw became a centre of Polish nationalism, culture and
art during the pre-war fin de siecle era. The city was also
modernised during this time with running water, electricity
and the first electric streetcars (1901) all being installed
ahead of Warsaw in the first decade of the 20th century.
When the First World War broke out, Krakw was besieged
by Russian troops forcing many residents to flee the city.
Krakw became the first Polish city liberated from Austrian
rule on October 31st, 1918 when a planned revolt against
the Austrian garrison in Podgrze freed the city in advance
of the wars end. The Treaty of Versailles would establish the
first sovereign Polish state in over a century, however twenty
years later in September 1939, Nazi German forces entered
Krakw, setting up command of their General Government
(the Nazi term for the occupied Polish lands slated to be purified
and incorporated in to the Rhineland) in Wawel Castle. Over
150 professors from Jagiellonian University were rounded
up and shipped to concentration camps in what is known as
Sonderaktion Krakau. The Jewish population was ejected
from Kazimierz into a ghetto in the Podgrze district, with
the Liban and Paszw work and concentration camps close
by. The Jewish ghetto, whose population fluctuated between
15,000 and 18,000, was liquidated in 1943 with its occupants
shot where they stood, sent to work in Paszw or sent to
their deaths in nearby Auschwitz. Krakw was liberated on
January 18th 1945, with the fabric of the city miraculously
coming through the Soviet offensive almost completely intact.
Following WWII, the dubious process of Sovietisation began,
and the district of Nowa Huta was built around the countrys
largest steel mill in the late 1940s in an attempt to weaken
Krakws intellectual and artistic heritage through industri-
alisation. Almost forty-five years of communism followed,
including a year and a half of martial law, before the Solidarity
independent trade union gathered enough momentum to
force free elections in 1989 in which Lech Wasa became the
first post-communist president of Poland. In 1978 Krakws
Old Town and Kazimierz districts were placed on the first
UNESCO World Heritage List and in the same year Krakws
archbishop Karol Wojtya became the first non-Italian pope
in 455 years. Because of its preservation, today Krakw
is arguably Polands most important historical and cultural
artefact. In 2010 the city was visited by over 8 million people.
966: First written record of the city
990: Incorporated into the Piast dynasty
1000: Krakw bishopric established
1038: Krakw becomes the capital of Poland
1241: The beginning of 50 years of Mongol mayhem
1257: Krakw granted municipal rights
1320: Coronation of King Wadysaw the Short in Wawel
Cathedral, the first royal coronation in Krakw
1335: Kazimierz is founded on the eastern bank of the
Wisa River
1364: Jagiellonian University founded
1386: Krakw wedding of Polish Queen Jadwiga and
Li thuanian grand duke Jagi ell o creates the
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth
1596: Polish capital moved to Warsaw
1655: Swedish army captures and devastates the city
1683: King Jan III Sobieski leads his Polish army from
Krakw to Vienna, defeating the Turks and sav-
ing Christian Europe
1734: Coronation of King August III, the final coronation
in Wawel Cathedral
1791: The May 3rd Constitution is passed; the First
Partition of Poland follows
1794: Prussi an army captures Krakw after the
Kociuzko Uprising; citys regalia stolen and lost
forever
1796: Krakw becomes part of Austrian Galicia after
the Third Partition of Poland
1918: Poland returns to the map of Europe
1939: Nazi occupation begins
1941: The Jewish Ghetto is established in the Podgrze
district
1942: Establishment of the Paszw concentration
camp in Podgrze
1943: Liquidation of the Krakw Ghetto
1945: Krakw liberated by the Soviet Army
1947: Construction begins on Nowa Huta
1978: Krakws Old Town, Wawel and Kazimierz added
to the UNESCO World Heritage List; Karol Wojtya
inaugurated as Pope John Paul II
1981: Martial law declared in Poland
1983: Martial law lifted; Lech Wasa wins the Nobel
Peace Prize
1989: Party-free el ecti ons i n Pol and; Communi st
regime crumbles
1999: Poland joins NATO
2002: 2.5 million people gather on the Bonia to par-
ticipate in a mass by Pope John Paul II
2004: Poland joins the European Union
2005: Pope John Paul II passes away plunging PL into
national mourning
2007: Krakw cel ebrates the 750 anni versary of
obtaining city rights and reaches its zenith as a
tourist destination
2010: President Lech Kaczyski and 95 other Polish
delegates die in a plane crash near Smolensk
Russia; Kaczyski and his wife Maria are con-
troversially buried in the Royal Crypt at Wawel
Krakw Historical Timeline
One of the most fas-
ci nati ng tradi ti ons for
touri sts and Krakow-
ians is the hejna (pro-
nounced haynow) a
short, mel odious bugl e
call played every hour
from the east, west,
north and south si des
of St. Mar y Basi l i cas
l ef t tower (C-3). Ergo
the most fasci nati ng
and envi abl e profes-
si on carri ed out 54m
above the city has to be
that of the trumpeter
who plays i t.
Mi cha Ko ton has been responsi bl e for the tradi -
ti on si nce 2006 when he took over the rol e from
hi s father, Jan Ko ton, Seni or Fi re Marshal l for
the Krakw Fi re Bri gade. Jan hi msel f had been
cl i mbi ng the 239 steps of St. Mar ys tower to
carr y out the tradi ti on si nce 1971, keepi ng the
hejna i n the fami l y af ter hi s own fathers 35-year
sti nt. But the j ob i s more than a source of pri de
and fami l y heri tage. The seven fi remen chosen to
pl ay are on cal l for a 24-hour rotati on then of f for
48 hours. Whi l e on cal l , they must be al er t ever y
hour to ri ng the church bel l and pl ay preci sel y on
the hour. The seven trumpeters carr y out thei r
dut y wi th great di sci pl i ne, as such a l ong-l asti ng
tradi ti on cannot be negl ected. And what a tradi ti on
i t i s. The most commonl y read l egend traci ng the
hejna i s that one morni ng i n 1241 the Tar tars
i nvaded Krakw (as they al ways do). The warni ng
song was bl ared to arouse the sl umberi ng ci t y
to arms. The man pl ayi ng was shot i n the neck,
thus abruptl y cut ti ng of f the song i n mi d-mel ody.
To thi s day, the tune cuts of f i n mi d-recapi tul ati on
symbol i zi ng Krakws vi gi l ance as wel l as com-
memorati ng the l one ni ght guard who aroused the
ci t y to defence, thereby savi ng i t. However, Pol i sh
j ournal i st Leszek Mazan wrote i n Polityka maga-
zi ne that he bel i eves Ameri can j ournal i st John M.
Kel l y fabri cated the l egend i n 1929. Whi l e l i t tl e
to no documentati on regardi ng the ori gi ns of the
song has been found, Mr. Ko ton and the other
pl ayers are cer tai n the songs stor y far precedes
John Kel l ys wri ti ng as a fi re warni ng for the ci t y.
The mel ody came from Hungar y and was appro-
pri atel y used as a warni ng for fi res or i nvasi ons
as the word hejna i n Hungari an means wake up.
Pri or to the 15th centur y when the tower on St.
Mar ys was compl eted, thi s warni ng was sounded
from the ci t y wal l s, whi ch i s most l i kel y where the
l egendar y trumpeter was shot and ki l l ed. Whi l e
the hi stori cal bi r th and devel opment of Krakws
trademark remai ns a myster y, any vi si tor or Kra-
kowi an wi l l surel y at test that the hejna s l i vi ng
tradi ti on defi nes and shapes Krakw. I n addi ti on
to pl easi ng vi si tors abl e to wi tness the bugl e cal l
l i ve from the church tower ever y hour, the tune can
al so be heard al l over Pol and when i t i s broadcast
l i ve ever y day at noon on Jedynka Radi o, number
89. 4 on the radi o di al i n Ma opol ska.
The Hejna
Rynek Gwny and the Cloth Hall, 1870
78
79
most naturally beautiful and mysterious district; the Jewish
heritage trail also naturally leads here where the worst horror
of Krakws Nazi occupation played out and Schindler made
a name for himself.
Within these pages youll also find a section devoted to Nowa
Huta, one of only two planned socialist realist cities ever
built. Designed to be the antithesis of everything Krakws
Old Town represents, both culturally and aesthetically, the
massive steelworks and other commie comforts of Nowa
Huta are only a tram ride away. Those staying in the area
for a week or more should strongly consider daytrips to
Wieliczka, Auschwitz-Birkenau and Tarnw, information
about all of which youll find here by reading on. However long
your stay, the meticulously updated information in this guide
will help you make the most of it. Enjoy exploring Krakw
and Maopolska.
OLD TOWN
Cathedral - one of the most dazzling cathedrals in the
country famed for i ts incredi bl e al tarpi ece and stained
glass. Its from atop the taller of the two cathedral towers
that a bugl er plays an abbreviated tune every hour on
the hour - don t miss i t. On the other si de of the square
youll find the Town Hall Tower, wi th a vi ewing platform
at the top (open in season) and a theatre and bar in the
former basement prison.
Leaving the Rynek foll ow the kings down ul. Grodzka to
pl. Wszystki ch wi tych (C-4). To the ri ght is St. Fran-
cis Basilica (B/C-4) wi th an Art Nouveau interi or by
Stanisaw Wyspiaski that shoul d not be missed, whil e
di rectl y before you are three more i ncredi bl e stai ned
glass windows by Krakws favouri te son in a speciall y-
made modern buil ding. Uli ca Grodzka l eads you past SS
Peter & Pauls Church (C-4) wi th i ts striking sculptures
of the 12 discipl es posed before i t. Cut across the small
square to your ri ght and youll find yoursel f on one of
Krakws most handsome streets, ul. Kanoni cza. The
late Pope John Paul IIs former resi dence is at numbers
19-21, whi ch now house the Archdiocesan Museum
(C-5). Kanoni cza l ets out directl y at the foot of Wawel
Castle (B/C-5), the ci tys defining landmark. A source
of great pri de, patrioti c and spiri tual strength, Wawel is
worth spending hal f a day expl oring, as well as the Wisa
ri verbanks bel ow.
Other Old Town highlights include the famous Czartoryski
Museum (D-2) - lucky enough to claim one of only a hand-
ful of Da Vinci paintings on display in the world within its
collection, but unluckily for you its currently closed for
renovation. Instead give some time to the fabulous 20th
century art collection on the top floor of the National
Museum (H-3).The Old Town is also home to the second
oldest university in Central Europe. Jagielloian Universitys
Collegium Maius (B-3) is the schools oldest building and
was the studying place of Copernicus. Take an hour out to
see the incredible library and lecture hall, as well as the
oldest surviving globe in the world to depict the Americas.
Finally, anyone looking to do some bizarre bargain hunting
should head to one of Krakws catch-all marketplaces, with
Stary Kleparz (C/D-1) and Hala Targowa (E-4) - especially
during the latters Sunday morning flea market - being bona
fide cultural experiences in their own right (see Shopping
for more).
SIGHTSEEING
Rynek Gwny PKO
Peter & Pauls Cathedral soylentgreen23, pl.wikipedia.org
Any expl oration of Krakws Ol d Town shoul d start wi th
the Royal Route - the histori cal coronation path of Pol -
ish kings when Krakw served as the royal capi tal from
the 14th century to the very end of the 16th century.
Most of the Ol d Towns prime si ghts (more information
on whi ch can be found in these pages wi th help from the
index) lay al ong this route from the Fl oriaska Gate to
Wawel Castl e. For many of l ess nobl e lineage, however,
the route begins at Krakws train station (E-1), a walk
from which to the main market square is among the most
regal and awe-inspiring introductions to any ci ty in Eu-
rope. Following the human traffic from the station through
the ul. Basztowa underpass will plant you in the green
space that encircl es the Ol d Town known as the Planty
(D-2). I deal for a fair weather stroll, the Planty was once
a series of medieval forti fications surrounded by a moat.
After Polands Third Parti tion in the late 18th century, the
order came down from Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph I
to dismantle these neglected structures, however thanks
to local effort the northern parts of the wall were spared,
including the magni fi cent Barbi can and Fl oriaska Gate.
Walking the two bl ocks towards the Barbi can, take note
of the Sowacki Theatre (D-2) to the left on ul. Szpitalna.
A marvel l ous Baroque masterpi ece from 1893, whil e
i ts a bi t di f fi cul t to infil trate during the day, buying an
af fordabl e ti cket to the theatre is hi ghl y recommended.
On ahead, the circular fortress of the Barbican (D-2)
was added to the ci tys defences in the late 15th century
whil e, directl y across from i t, the Floriaska Gate (D-2)
that of ficiall y began the Royal Route dates back to 1307.
Pass through i t and youre on one of Krakws main com-
mercial streets. Behind the Gol den Arches, kebab and
souvenir si gns dont fail to noti ce the archi tectural detail
of the facades. On this street youll find the Jan Matejko
House and Museum, as well as the underappreciated
Pharmacy Museum (C-2).
Arri ving upon Krakws main market square or Rynek
(C-3), you are now standing in the heart of Poland wi th
your fi nger on i ts pul se. Hi stori cal l y, cul tural l y and
spiri tuall y the Rynek and Wawel may be the two most
i mportant si ghts i n the country (sorry Warsaw). The
l argest medi eval market square i n Central Europe,
Krakws Rynek is 200 metres square and functions as
the ci tys social gravi tation point. Lined wi th cafes and
restaurants, fill ed wi th peopl e, pi geons, street per form-
ers, musicians and horse-drawn carriages, this is a place
of festi vals, concerts, parades and other events. At i ts
centre lies the impressi ve Cloth Hall or Sukiennice - a
neo-Gothi c structure whi ch has served as a market for
merchants si nce the Mi ddl e Ages, and whose history
you can now l earn in the Rynek Underground museum
housed beneath i t. Directl y before you as youre l eaving
Floriaska is <b style=>St. Marys Basilica or Mariacki
Krakw has always been, in many respects, a charmed
city. With a history that dates back to the 4th century
settlement of Wawel Hill, Krakw has fortuitously avoided
destruction since the pesky Mongels stopped bullying the
area in the 13th century, growing into one of the most
prominent cities in Central Europe. The most important
city in Poland not to come out of World War II looking like
a trampled Lego set, even the Soviets failed to leave their
mark on the enchanted ci ty centre during 45 years of
supervision, forced to erect their gray communist Utopia
in the outlying suburb of Nowa Huta. As a result, Krakw
is today one of the most beauti ful showpieces of Eastern
Europe - a claim validated by its historic centres inclusion
on the first ever UNESCO World Heritage List in 1978,
along with the nearby Wieliczka Salt Mine and only ten
other places in the world. A city of majestic architectural
monuments, cobbled thoroughfares, cultural treasures,
timeless courtyards, priceless artworks and legendary
beer cellars and gardens, Krakws historic centre is the
pride of Poland.
What To See
Krakws centre can be divided into two main sections - the
Old Town and Kazimierz (the former Jewish Quarter), with
Wawel towering between them. These three areas are req-
uisite for anyone visiting the city - even if just for a day - and
have been given their own separate treatment with accom-
panying cultural listings within this guide. Though one could
spend their life wandering in and out of the cobbled streets,
courtyards, cafes, clubs and museums of the Old Town and
Kazimierz (weve attempted to make a life out of it), if you get
the opportunity, dont hesitate to take a trip across the river
into Podgrze. Just beyond Kazimierz, Podgrze is the citys
City Tourist Information C-3, Rynek Gwny
1/3 (Cloth Hall), tel. (+48) 12 433 73 10, www.
infokrakow.pl. The official city tourist office. Also at
ul. w. Jana 2 (C-3, Open 10:00-18:00. From May open
09:00-19:00), ul. Szpitalna 25 (D-2, Open 09:00-17:00.
From May open 09:00-19:00), ul. Powile 11 (B-5, Open
09:00-17:00. From May open 09:00-19:00) and Pl.
Wszystkich witych 2 (C-4, Wyspiaski Pavilion, Open
09:00-17:00). Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. From May open
09:00 - 19:00.
Krakw History Museum Visitor Services
Centre (Centrum Obsugi Zwiedzajcych) C-3,
Rynek Gwny 1/3, tel. (+48) 12 426 50 60, www.
mhk.pl. Tourist info and gift shop for all 15 branches
of the Krakw History Museum. Tickets to the Rynek
Underground museum can currently be purchased here,
with Schindlers Factory tickets also becoming available
during the next two months. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Tourist Service Center (Centrum Obsugi
Ruchu Turystycznego) B-5, ul. Powile 11, tel.
(+48) 513 09 96 88, www.infokrakow.pl. Cunningly
hidden underground at the base of Wawel Hill, this new
facility contains info about the city, Wawel, the region
in general plus everything visitors need to know about
events. Theres also a gift shop and a snack bar. Q Open
09:00 - 17:00. From May open 09:00 - 19:00.
Tourist Information
Szeroka Street, Kazimierz
www.flickr.com, Ana Paula Hirama
St. Marys Basilica
80
OLD TOWN
81
OLD TOWN
in, even for those who could care less for looking at another
church. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 13:15 - 15:30. No visit-
ing during mass please.
St. Marys Basilica (Bazylika Mariacka) C-3, Pl.
Mariacki 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 07 37, www.mariacki.
com. Tartar invasions of the 13th century left the original
church in a heap of ruins and construction began on St. Marys
using the existing foundations. It doesnt matter how many
times you see it, the altarpiece, stained glass windows of the
nave, and the blue, starred ceiling will take your breath away.
The magnificent altarpiece was for 12 painstaking years the
principal work of the 15th century German artist Veit Stoss
(aka Wit Stwosz), and depicts the Virgin Marys Quietus among
the apostles. Surrounding the altar are polychrome paintings
by Matejko, Mehoffer and Wyspiaski. Several local legends
are attached to St. Marys. The architect of the smaller tower
murdered his brother (the architect of the taller), apparently
jealous that his structure was shorter and less elaborate.
Racked with guilt he then committed suicide by throwing him-
self off the roof of the cathedral. Nowadays the taller tower is
home to one of Krakws most enduring traditions. The bugle
call played on the turn of every hour apparently takes its origins
from an event in 1241. Having spotted invading Tartar forces
on the horizon, a lone fireman started playing his trumpet to
alert the habitants of Krakw. He was shot with an arrow in his
neck, abruptly cutting off the tune mid-melody, but the town
was roused from its sleep and defended itself. In honour of
this event, seven local firemen now have task of tooting the
tune every hour. The first written mention of the tradition dates
back to 1392, though a local magazine recently claimed the
whole custom was invented by an American in 1929. QOpen
11:30 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 15 minutes
before closing. Admission 6/3z.
Guided Tours
If an authoritative print guide, website and iPhone app
just arent enough and you need someone to literally
take you by the hand (hey, we kid) there are plenty of
tour companies to choose from in Krakw and we list
the best of them here.
I f youre wondering about the ever-popular antique
horse-drawn carriages that line the market square,
routes and prices are individually determined with the
driver but rides generally cost 250z/hr, 175z/30mins.
Just dont expect them to disseminate any information
about what youre seeing along the way (see, you might
need this guidebook after all); that bright idea hasnt
occurred to anyone yet.
AB City Tours ul. Kociuszki 49, tel. (+48) 12 427
27 57, www.abcitytour.pl. Their large fleet of electron-
ic golf-carts zips tired-footed tourists around all the sights
in town, while informational audio recordings explain
Krakws history in English, Polish, Spanish, German,
French, Italian, Norwegian, Hungarian, Japanese, Dutch,
Russian and Portuguese. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Y
Cracow City Tours D-1, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48)
12 421 13 33, www.cracowcitytours.com. The best
value trip to Auschwitz on offer. Also at ul. Floriaska
44 (D-2, 12 421 13 27, Open 08:00-21:00). QOpen
07:30 - 20:30. Y
Cracow Tours B-2, ul. Krupnicza 3, tel. (+48) 12
430 07 26, www.cracowtours.pl. Variety of tour pack-
ages including city centre tours, Auschwitz, the salt mines
and Zakopane. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Crazy Guides C-2, ul. Floriaska 38, tel. (+48)
500 09 12 00, www.crazyguides.com. Specialising
in communist themed tours of Nowa Huta and the Send-
zimir Steelworks. Experience Stalins gift to Krakow - one
of the worlds only centrally planned cities - in a genuine
Eastern Bloc Trabant 601 automobile. Q Communism
Tour 129z per person.
DiscoverCracow.eu C-3, Rynek Gwny 30, tel.
(+48) 12 346 38 99, www.discovercracow.eu.
Explore Krakw with a DIY audio guide about the history
and legends of 87 points in the city. Pick it up at one of
their tourist points: ul. Grodzka 28-30 (C-4), ul. Grodzka 2
(C-3), ul. Floriaska 28 (C-2) or Rynek Gwny 30 (C-3). A
separate guide specifically for St. Marys Basilica can be
picked at Pl. Mariacki 5 (C-3, open 11:30 - 17:30). Guided
tours in and around the Krakw area with real people are
also available. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Marco der Pole C- 4, ul. Kanonicza 15, tel.
(+48) 12 430 21 17, www.krakow-travel.com. A
well-seasoned travel outfit, Marco der Pole organises
daily walking tours, regional daytrips and tailor-made
programs for adult and school groups. QOpen 09:00
- 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
The Tourist Guide Association (Stowarzysze-
nie Przewodnikw Turystycznych - Krakw)
tel. (+48) 725 72 52 00, www.guide-cracow.pl.
These well-connected linguists can help you find and
book tours of Krakw in English, Czech, French, Spanish,
Portuguese, Italian, Dutch, Swedish, German, Polish,
Russian, Slovak and Serbo-Croatian.
Churches
Theres hardly a resident of Krakw who doesnt have a
church for a neighbour. While the number of churches,
cathedrals and monasteries in the city is almost endless,
weve used a bit of discrimination in only listing the most
remarkable and unavoidable of the bunch here. All of these
places of worship are located in the Old Town and still active
to varying degrees, so please be respectful and try not to
visit during services. Kazimierz, Podgrze and Nowa Huta
churches are listed in their respective sections.
Holy Trinity Basilica (Bazylika w. Trjcy) C-4, ul.
Stolarska 12, tel. (+48) 12 423 16 13, www.krakow.
dominikanie.pl. Built in 1250 by Dominican friars from
Bologna, the church lost many of its treasures when it was
gutted by fire back in 1850. Rebuilt in 1872 this huge struc-
ture is now an important evangelical centre. The image of
Our Lady of the Rosary, found inside the Rosary chapel, is
said to have healing powers. Q Open 09:30 - 11:40, 13:00
- 16:30, Sun 14:30 - 16:30.
SS Peter & Pauls Church (Koci w. Piotra
i Pawa) C-4, ul. Grodzka 52a, tel. (+48) 12 350 63
65, www.apostolowie.pl. Krakws premier Jesuit Church
was built in the early 1600s. The twelve disciples standing
on the gates outside are its most striking feature, although
the interior has been extensively renovated and the airy,
austere grandeur of this late Renaissance building is now
evident. Possessors of a 46.5m Foucault Pendulum - a
device invented by French physicist Leon Foucault in 1851
which proves the earths rotation, shows demonstrating its
use occur on Thursdays at 10:00, 11:00 and 12:00. QOpen
09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:30, Sun 13:30 - 17:30.
St. Adalberts (Koci
w. Woj ci echa) C- 3,
Rynek Gwny, tel. (+48)
12 422 83 52, www.kosci-
olwojciecha.pl. Krakws
oldest church sits not unlike a
lost orphan at the southeast
corner of the Cl oth Hal l, a
mad mix of pre-Roman, Ro-
man, Gothi c, Renai ssance
and Baroque archi tecture,
al l crammed together i n a
higgl edy-piggl edy j umbl e of
religious styles. The earliest
par ts of the bui l di ng date
from at least the 11th century,
pre-dating the Rynek and ex-
plaining its seemingly random position within it. St. Adalbert
had his own cult following at the time, which explains how it
managed to survive. A look inside is well worth it, not least
because the floor sits some two metres below the surface of
the main square. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 13:30 - 19:00.
St. Francis Basilica (Bazylika w. Franciszka)
C- 4, Pl. Wszystkich witych 5, tel. (+48) 12 422
53 76, www.franciszkanska.pl. Our favourite church
in Krakw thanks to the gorgeous interior Art Nouveau
murals by native son Stanisaw Wyspiaski, which nicely
balance the organic and geometric with unique florals pat-
terns that make this the most colourful place of worship
in the city. Wyspiaski also made the eight stained-glass
windows around 1895, including the controversial and
iconic centerpiece, God the Father in the Act of Creation.
Dating back to the 13th century, St. Francis Basilica was
the first brick building in the city and is well worth popping

ul. Floriaska C-2. Marking the
edge of the Old Town is Floriaska
Gate. Completed in 1307 the gate-
way is one of the few surviving parts
of the ancient defences that once
circled the Old Town. Thirty-three
metres tall, and topped with a Ba-
roque roof that was added in 1657,
the gate marks the main entrance
into the old city, and was the original
starting point for what was dubbed
the Royal Road. It was through this
gate that visiting kings, queens
and nobility would enter the city on
their way to Wawel. A painstaking
programme of renovation has left
the gate looking sparkling new, and the immediate environs
play home to dozens of open-air displays by aspiring local
artists. Once considered Krakws principal commerical
street Floriaska comes predictably steeped in history.
Aside from signs advertising kebabs, dance clubs and
currency exchange, many of the townhouses have facades
featuring age-old murals and inscriptions. Keep your eyes
peeled for House of the Negro (Floriaska 1) and House of
the Squirrel (no. 15). Also of note, the Jan Matejko House
(no. 41) and Pharmacy Museum (no. 25, see Museums
for both), and the hotel and restaurant Pod R (no. 14).
Reputed to be the oldest hotel in Krakw, the Latin inscrip-
tion above Pod Ras Renaissance doorway reads May
this building stand until an ant drinks the ocean, and
a tortoise circles the earth.
Floriaska Street
Floriaska Gate
special B
www.flickr.com, Anosmia
82
OLD TOWN
83
OLD TOWN
Monuments
Adam Mickiewicz C-3, Rynek Gwny. One of the
most important statues in Poland, the large likeness of
the romantic poet and national hero Adam Mickiewicz
(1798-1855) was originally unveiled in 1898 to celebrate
the centenary of the great mans birth, and, like so many
other symbols of national pride was destroyed by the oc-
cupying Germans during WWII. The statue that stands in
the Rynek today is a 1955 copy of Teodor Rygiers original,
and is a popular and easily recognisable meeting place.
Lithuanian-born Mickiewicz (whos most famous work, Pan
Tadeusz begins with the words Lithuania, my country!
and who is known and loved by the Lithuanians as Adomas
Mickeviius) never visited Krakw until 35 years after his
death. His body lies at rest in the Cathedral crypts just
down the road at Wawel.
Eros Bendato (Eros Bound) B-3, Rynek Gwny.
Among Krakws most wel l -known l andmarks, thi s
sculpture in the western corner of the market square is
a popular meeting place and at some point serves as
a photographic backdrop for almost every tourist who
visits the city. Affectionately referred to as The Head,
the bronze body parts of fi cial ti tl e i s Eros Bendato
(Eros Bound) and is the work of Polish artist Igor Mitoraj.
A student of Tadeusz Kantors at the Krakw School of
Art, an exhibition of 14 of Mitorajs monumental works
dressed the Rynek from Oct 17, 2003 to Jan 25, 2004,
during which the artist gi fted this work to the city, sparking
controversy over what to do with it. Initially, the sculpture
was designated for Plac Kolejowy (E-2), but the artist was
indignant about having his work in front of a commercial
building (Galeria Krakowska). Despite protest from his-
torians and many locals, the sculpture eventually found
its current place near the Town Hall Tower, where it has
become an unexpected tourist attracti on. In summer,
children can be seen crawling all over the hollow edi fice,
sticking their heads and limbs through the eyeholes for
camera-snapping parents, though winter too often finds
it profaned with trash and foul-smelling liquids. Fans of
Mitorajs work will find another of his large sculptures -
titled Luci di Nara - adorning the charming courtyard of
Collegium Luridicum (C-4, ul. Grodzka 53).
Grunwal d Monument
(Pomni k Grunwal du)
D-1, Pl. Matejki. The Battle
of Grunwald, fought between
the j oi nt armi es of Pol and
and Li thuani a agai nst the
Teutonic Knights on July 15,
1410, i s consi dered to be
one of the greatest battles
ever to take place in medieval
Europe. A defining moment in Polish history, the battle was
immortalised in Krakw with the unveiling of this weighty
monument in front of an estimated 160,000 people on the
500th anniversary of the event in 1910. Antoni Wiwulskis
(1877-1919) original masterpiece was, not surprisingly,
destroyed by the occupying Nazis during WWII and the
copy that now stands in its place dates from 1976, having
been faithfully reproduced using sketches and models of
the original. At the top on his horse is the Lithuanian king of
Poland Wadysaw Jagieo, his sword pointing downwards
in his right hand. At the front is his cousin the Lithuanian
prince Vytautas (Vitold), who is flanked on either side by
victorious soldiers from the joint army. The dead man at
the front is Urlich von Jungingen, the Teutonic Orders Grand
Master, who lost his li fe during the battle.
Museums
Krakw is host to a plethora of museums. Opening hours
and exhibitions that are continually closing for restoration
can strike visitors as will fully eccentric, until one stops
to consider how much patience and care - and how little
capital - is invested to maintain such high standards. It is
for this reason that philanthropic visitors may even see fit
to throw an extra zoty into the collection box. Alternatively,
cheapskates and paupers should note that all branches of
the National Museum are free on Sundays. The museums
listed here are in the Old Town, while Kazimierz and Podgrze
museums are listed in their respective sections of the guide.
19th Century Polish Art Gallery C-3, Cloth Hall,
Rynek Gwny 1-3, tel. (+48) 12 424 46 03, www.
muzeum.krakow.pl. Open again after a lengthy closure, this
magnificent and historic exhibition inside the Cloth Hall covers
Polish art from in and around the 19th century, and its major
trends of portraiture and epic historical painting. Comprising
four rooms, the collection is refreshingly small, giving proper
attention to each piece, some of which are enormous and
all of which are gorgeously framed. Of particular interest
for their status as national treasures are the Italian-born,
Polish-resident Marceli Bacciarellis Portrait of Stanisaw
August Poniatowski in Coronation Dress from around 1790
and, a century on, Wadysaw Podkowiskis famous Frenzy
from 1894. Other painters of note on display whose works
shouldnt be missed include Jan Matejko, Jacek Malczewski,
Jzef Chemoski and Stanisaw Witkiewicz. One of the perks
of a visit is access to the magnificent balcony overlooking the
market square. Recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 12/6z, family ticket 24z, audioguide 5z.
Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Archaeology Museum (Muzeum Archeologic-
zne) B- 4, ul. Poselska 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 71 00,
www.ma.krakow.pl. Fresh from a recent boost of cash,
Krakws one-time lacklustre Archaeology Museum has
been transformed into something actually worth going to
have a look at. As well as some fine examples of li fe from
Maopolska during the Stone Age and a brilliant room dedi-
cated to local clothing from 70,000 BC to the 14th century,
the museum houses a permanent collection of artefacts
from ancient Egypt including some beauti ful shrouds, a
number of intricatel y decorated sarcophagi and some
mummi fied cats. The latter exhibition is best enjoyed with
the aid of an audio guide, available for an extra charge. Q
Open 09:00-15:00, Thu 14:00-18:00, Fri , Sun 10:00-15:00.
Closed Sat. Admission 7/5z, Sun free for permanent exhibi-
tions. Audioguide 5z. Y
Archdiocesan Museum of Cardinal Karol Wojtya
(Muzeum Archidiecezjalne Kardynaa Karola
Wojtyy) C-5, ul. Kanonicza 19-21, tel. (+48) 12 421
89 63, www.muzeumkra.diecezja.pl. John Paul II lived
here - twice. Once as Karol Wojtya, the young priest with
a penchant for skiing (his Head skis are on show) and later
as a bishop, in grander, adjacent rooms. The Archdiocesan
doubles as a small but well-presented showcase of beauti-
ful sacral art, some dating back to the 13th century. Among
the items on display, you will find presents to His Holiness
from heads-of-state. All very nice, but the exhibition will only
hold the attention of true papal enthusiasts, and visitors
can expect to be tailed by over-zealous curators. Personal
guided tours available or for groups up to 30 people in
French, English and Polish. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/3z, family ticket
12z. Guided tours 60z.
fot. Iwona Grabska
Main Market Square
(Rynek) C-3. Krakws main
market square (Rynek) serves
as the citys gravitational cen-
tre, and is the natural start
and finish point for any tour
of the city. Originally designed
i n 1257 - the year Krakw
was awarded its charter - the
gridlike layout of the Old Town
and i ts central square has
changed little in the years that
have followed. Measuring 200
metres square, the Rynek ranks as one of the largest
medieval squares in Europe, and is surrounded by elegant
townhouses, all with their own unique names, histories and
curiosities. Through the centuries it was in Krakws Rynek
that homage to the king was sworn and public executions
held. Most famously it was here that Tadeusz Kociuszko
roused the locals to revolt against foreign rule in 1794.
The Rynek has always been the natural stage for public
celebrations, with everything from parades of sausage
dogs to Christmas crib competitions taking place. Not
all the events have had been happy affairs however, and
back in the 17th century King Jan Sobieski III was privy to
a firework display which ended in bloodshed when some
of the explosives were accidentally fired into the crowd.
Some mistake. More recently the market square was
subjected to a Nazi rally under German occupation which
was attended by Der Fhrer himself and celebrated the
squares name change from Rynek Gwny to Adolf Hitler
Platz. Fortunately the moniker didnt last long and today
the Rynek occupies itself by hosting the yearly Christmas
and Easter markets, as well as numerous festivals and
outdoor concerts.
Taking centre stage in the Rynek is the Cloth Hall
(Sukiennice). Built in the 14th century this huge hall was
effectively the first shopping mall in the world. To this
day it is still crammed with hawkers and stalls selling
amber, lace, woodwork and assorted tourist tat. Recently
a 4,000m2, hi-tech museum tracing its history, and that
of the entire city, has opened underneath the Cloth Hall,
called Rynek Underground (see our box).
Directly next to the Sukiennice stands Polands most
eminent scribe: Adam Mickiewicz. Ironically, the bard
never visited the city until after his death when his
remains were transferred to the Wawel Cathedral crypt,
but this hasnt stopped the statue from becoming one of
Krakws best loved monuments. Across from Mickiewicz
looms the magnificent St. Marys Basilica, its crowning
glory being Veit Stoss altarpiece. The area surrounding
the Basilica was formerly a cemetery, and the bodies
of hundreds of Cracovians still lie beneath the cobbles.
Ghoulish tourists will also appreciate the set of metal
neck restraints displayed on the side door of St Marys,
formerly used to punish philandering women.
On the squares other side is the 70 metre Town Hall
Tower, the only element of the 14th century Town Hall
remaining after many fires, renovations and uncaring
demolitions. Open from April to November only, visi-
tors can ascend up to the 3rd floor through Gothic vaulted
rooms which contain, amongst other things, 1960s
photographs of Krakw and look out on the square below
from the viewing point.
Main Market Square
Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) C-3, Rynek Gwny 1/3.
There is proof that a structure of some sort has existed
on this very spot since the mid 13th century. The original
structures would probably have been two rows of stone
trading stalls forming a street between them right in the
middle of the square. Around 1300 a roof would have
been placed over these stalls with this basic structure
surviving until the mid-14th century when Polish king
Casimir the Great allowed construction of a hall for
trading as part of his policy of improving and enriching
his kingdom. Krakw became an important trading post
between the east and west and although the name Cloth
Hall comes from the trading of textiles that went on, this
area saw many commodities bought and sold such as
wax, spices, leather, silk and more local goods like lead
and salt from the nearby Wieliczka mines.
A fire destroyed the building in the mid-16th century and
the new structure underwent a Renaissance facelift over-
seen by Jan Maria Padovano (1493-1574) featuring bril-
liantly deformed gargoyles by the Italian-Polish sculptor
Santi Gucci on the faade. At this time the Cloth Hall was
probably the most magnificent building in all of Krakw.
By the mid-1870s Poland had been partitioned for nearly
a century and the Cloth Hall was in pretty decrepit state.
According to maps of the day, Krakw was part of Austro-
Hungarian controlled Galicia at this time and during
the period of 1875-79 many of the outbuildings were
torn down and the neo-Gothic colonnades and outside
arcades were added by Tomasz Pryliski, a student of
Jan Matejko. The interior was converted into a series
of wooden stalls and on October 7th, 1879 the Krakw
City Council voted to give half of the upper floor of the
Cloth Hall over to the creation of the first Polish National
Museum. It quickly became the focal point for a huge
celebration of Polish patriotism attracting Poles from
all three partitions as well as those from self-imposed
exiles abroad.
The 20th century saw ongoing development of the build-
ing with the most significant work being carried out in
the late 1950s when much of the 19th century interior
was replaced. By the start of the 21st century, however,
the building, particularly the display areas inside, was
in poor condition and unprepared for the demands of a
21st century museum or shopping area.
Started in August 2006 and lasting over 4 years, the
building was given a complete re-modelling with lifts,
air-conditioning and new natural and arti ficial lighting
installed. Where once were sloped attics, you will now
find lovely terraces overlooking the square below and
St. Marys Basilica opposite. To take advantage of them
and the adjacent Cafe Sza (see Cafes) visit the 19th
Century Polish Art Gallery (see Museums, and keep in
mind you dont need to pay admission to visit the cafe).
Having visited the Gallery or the Rynek Underground
museum take a break by visiting the Noworolski Cafe
for coffee (see Cafes) and round it off by picking up a
souvenir in the arcade within the Cloth Hall. Youll find
all sorts of handicrafts, amber and other j ewellery
at surprisingly reasonable prices. And youll have the
experience of shopping in what is basically a 700-year
old shopping mall.
The Cloth Hall
84
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85
OLD TOWN
Bishop Erazm Cioek Palace (Paac Biskupa
Erazma Cioka) C-5, ul. Kanonicza 17, tel. (+48) 12
424 93 70, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. This early 14th cen-
tury palace holds two permanent exhibitions of the National
Museum, Art of Old Poland from the 12th to 18th Centuries
and Orthodox Art of the Old Polish Republic. As you could
have guessed, both exhibits consist entirely of sacral art from
before the idea of art was applied to non-religious subject
matter (how many centuries did that take?). Most of it came
directly out of Krakws own churches or others in the region,
and most of it is admittedly superb, if thats your thing. If its
not, its a bit of a snoozefest. The highlight is without doubt
the strange 16th century Christ Riding a Donkey, a near life-
size wooden sculpture of everyones favourite model doing
just that with vacant eyes and the mule atop a wagon. Eerily
beautiful. Also of note is the wooden Madonna from Krulowa
which dates from around 1400. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
City Def ensive Walls
(Mury Obronne) D-2, ul.
Pijarska, tel. (+48) 12 619
23 20, www.mhk.pl. This
small museum is in turns unin-
formative and overly informa-
tive, but basically it gives you a
chance to climb around whats
left of Krakws 13th century
defensive walls. Pass a few
silly mannequins in medieval
dress en route to a film with
fantastic virtual recreations of
ancient Krakw (in Polish only),
before walking the length of
wall between two towers and getting a description of the
other 40-odd towers demolished by the Austrians in the
18th century. Enjoy views and great photo opportunities
over Floriaska street, but generally a visit to the Barbican
(see Old Town Places of Interest) is more interesting and
informative. Tickets are valid for 7 days and include entry
to the Barbican as well. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Open from
early April (weather dependent) until end of October. Admis-
sion 6/4z, family ticket 12z. Ticket is valid for 7 days and
includes admission to the nearby Barbican.
Collegium Maius (Jagiellonian University Mu-
seum) B-3, ul. Jagielloska 15, tel. (+48) 12 663 13
07, www.maius.uj.edu.pl. Jagiellonian University is the
third oldest university in Europe, founded by King Kazimierz
the Great in 1364. Its picturesque courtyard ranks as one of
the most beautiful of the city. An amiable English-speaking
guide will take you on a 45-minute tour of the Treasury, As-
sembly Hall, Library and Common Room. Along the way, you
will see the oldest surviving globe to depict the Americas.
It was in 1492 that astronomer Nicolas Copernicus began
his studies at the Jagiellonian, developing his own theories
about which way the world spins. You need to call or visit
in advance to book a place on the English-language tour,
which takes place Monday through Friday at 13:00. More
basic English-language tours (omitting the gallery and sci-
entific instruments exhibit) begin about every 20 minutes
throughout the day, though were informed its wise to arrange
these beforehand as well. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00, Tue, Thu
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Last entrance 40 minutes before
closing. Admission 12/6z for permanent exhibit, 16/12z for
entire museum (including gallery and scientific instruments)
or tour. Admission free on Tuesdays between 15:00 and
18:00 for a self-guided tour.
Hipolit House (Kamienica Hipolitw) C- 3, Pl.
Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 42 19, www.mhk.pl. The
Hipolits were a merchant family who lived in this fine building
around the end of the 16th and beginning of the 17th centu-
ries, although the building dates back considerably further
than that. The inside has been transformed into a series of
recreations of typical Polish bourgeois houses from the 17th
to the early 20th century, and is interesting for the insights it
gives into how the other half lived as well as being a showcase
for some truly remarkable furniture. Highly recommended.
Q Open 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing. Admission 7/5z, Wed free.
History Museum (Muzeum Historyczne) C- 3,
Rynek Gwny 35, tel. (+48) 12 619 23 00, www.mhk.
pl. Established in 1899, Krakws superb History Museum
charts the trade, culture, politics and daily life of the city from
1257 until the end of the Second Republic in 1939. Unfortu-
nately the 17th-century building its housed in continues to
undergo renovation works, meaning the permanent gallery is
closed. Part of the museum remains open, however, playing
host to rotating temporary exhibitions - currently a display
of almost 200 black and white illustrations of Krakw by
Bronisaw Schnborn (1909-1971), juxtaposed with present-
day colour photographs of the city. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30.
Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 6/4z, family ticket 12z. Y
History of Photography Museum (Muzeum
Historii Fotografii im. Walerego Rzewuskiego)
H-1, ul. Jzefitw 16, tel. (+48) 12 634 59 32, www.
mhf.krakow.pl. Allegedly Polands only museum dedicated
exclusively to photography, this recently renovated museum
is a real gem for fans of the art form and features some
interesting exhibits. Laid out in several cupboard-size rooms
that also play host to a series of changing photographic
exhibitions, an old darkroom, heaps of ancient cameras
Czartoryski Museum
(Muzeum Ksi t
Czartoryskich) C-2,
ul. w. Jana 19, tel.
(+48) 12 422 55 66,
www.muzeum.krakow.
pl. Renowned for its pos-
session of Leonardo da
Vincis Lady with an Er-
mine - one of only three
existent Da Vinci oil paint-
i ngs and a senti mental
favourite for Poles, repro-
duced and hung in many a
living room, the Czartorys-
ki is Krakws most famous and most visited museum.
Unfortunately for visitors the museum continues to
be closed during a much-needed renovation, which is
expected to last well into 2012. After an overseas tour,
Lady With an Ermine is reportedly back in Krakw,
though the exact whereabouts of the priceless painting
is a closely guarded secret. Those with an interest in
the Czartoryski collection other than Da Vincis varmint-
holding muse should consider visiting the Gallery Of
Ancient Art - located across the street at ul. Pijarska 8
and reopening April 10th. Or better yet, make the trip out
to Niepoomice where much of the collection is currently
on display in the Royal Castle 25km east of Krakw. Q
Closed for renovation. Y
Lady With a Varmint
Rynek Underground (Podziemia Rynku) C-3,
Rynek Gwny 1, tel. (+48) 12 426 50 60, www.
podziemiarynku.com. Opened in a blaze of publicity in
September 2010, this 38z million hi-tech museum - the
first of its kind in Poland - is subtitled In the Footsteps
of Krakws European Identity and is laid out as a
journey in time in which visitors can not only see the past
but feel it as well thanks to the inclusion of a battalion
of touch-sensitive screens. Approximately four metres
under the market squares surface and occupying a
space that was once a series of underground stalls
predating todays Cloth Hall, the 6,000-square metre mu-
seum follows the path of the citys history from the first
settlers in the region right up to the death of Pope John
Paul II on April 2, 2005 - a few months before the original
archaeological dig began. After negotiating the scrum
thats the combined ticket office and cloakroom, visitors
enter the main exhibition space via a film projected on a
wall of smoke and subsequently follow a clockwise trail
that takes in some truly remarkable exhibits placed in
their original surroundings.
Rel yi ng heavi l y on
screens and hol o-
grams, per manent
exhi bi ti on hi ghl i ghts
i ncl ude di spl ays of
trade in the city, trans-
port and a fascinating
look into life in Krakw
before it received its
charter the very same
year the Main Market Square was laid out. The museum
cl everl y combines modern technol ogy wi th ori ginal
artefacts, among them the remains of an 11th-century
cemetery and an ancient horse skull.
Those used to more traditional museums will be pleased
to know theres still plenty of reality among the virtual
exhibits including the usual array of coins, clothing and
other earthly remains. In addition to the touch-screens,
which proved hugely popular when we went round, are
audio guides in English, German, French, Russian, Ital-
ian and Spanish, and a caf plus two shops selling food
and souvenirs respectively at the end of the circuit.
Before you arrive there make a point of taking a look at
the series of short, subtitled documentaries covering
different ages of Krakows history which can be found
in the passage to the right before you head towards the
exit into the cafe area.
Expecting some 300,000 visi tors annuall y, Rynek
Underground is limited to 300 people at a time and is
proving very popular with sometimes massive queues
of people being admitted in 30-minute intervals. To
avoid disappointment or wai ting, tickets should be
bought in advance online and shown at the door. The
entrance is in the northeast corner of the Cloth Hall
facing St. Marys Basilica, however tickets for those
without them are bought from an information point
on the opposite side of the building. Q Open 10:00 -
22:00, Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Tue 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
every first Tuesday of the month. Last entrance 75
minutes before closing. Admission 17/14z, audioguide
5z (ID must be left in order to take an audioguide).
Tue free.
Rynek Underground
richardschofieldphotography.com
To borrow from the lady herself, they say the first sen-
tenceis always the hardest. Well, that ones behind
me, anyway. So Wisawa Szymborska began the most
important speech of her life when she accepted the Nobel
Prize for Literature in 1996. It was light-hearted moments
like these that perhaps endeared the humble Polish poet to
noted fans like Woody Allen. Though often playful and imagi-
native, Szymborskas poetry is hardly light verse, however.
Recurring themes of her work include war, torture, death
and the passage of time, and though highly contemplative,
she never manoeuvered away from the subject at hand.
Born outside Pozna in 1923, her family soon moved to
Krakw where she would quietly spend the rest of her life.
During Nazi occupation Szymborska secretly attended an
underground secondary school and after the war studied
literature and sociology at Jagiellonian University, dropping
out before getting a degree due to financial problems. It was
during this time that she first began publishing her poetry
and had a short-lived six year marriage with fellow poet
Adam Wodek. Like many of her contemporaries, Szym-
borskas early work adhered to official Soviet ideology and
her first two collections 1952s Dlatego yjemy (Thats
What We Are Living For) and 1954s Pytanie Zadawanie
Sobie (Questions Put to Myself) later become known as
her Stalinist period. By 1957 she had denounced her early
work, and was later involved in the Solidarity movement to
overthrow Polands communist government, writing under a
pseudonym in the underground and foreign presses during
martial law. Throughout her modest career she worked for
various Cracovian literary periodicals, publishing a regular
column of book reviews and a slim volume of poetry every
few years. It was enough to earn her acclaim and recogni-
tion in Poland, however she was virtually unknown abroad
until 1996 when she was unexpectedly pulled from her shy,
solitary life and awarded the Nobel Prize in Literature for
poetry that with ironic precision allows the historical and
biological context to come to light in fragments of human
reality. A perfect example of the inaccessible, esoteric and
ambiguous language that turns the general public away
from poetry, this explanatory commendation from the Nobel
Board stands in contrast to Szymborskas actual writing,
which is known for its simple, straight-forward language. Her
work quickly engages the reader, typically drawing them into
an encounter with familiar, seemingly insignificant objects
and events, but from a new perspective which reveals their
harsh hidden truths or celebrates their unseen miraculous
qualities. With trademark wit, wisdom and irony, her lyrical
joy over lifes astonishing potential is tempered by strong
skepticism in easy answers and an acute awareness of
suffering. After its frivolous start, Szymborskas Nobel
acceptance speech went on to be considered one of the
greats for its humourous description of the poets creative
process and its earnest identification of that processs
responsibility to restlessly render every aspect of the world
around us as nothing less than what Szymborska believed
it to be: extraordinary.
Despite almost universal critical acclaim and a surge in
popularity, Szymborska was disturbed and embarrassed
by her Nobel acknowledgement, and it apparently took her
years to begin writing again. Today her reputation rests on
a surprisingly small body of work comprising less than 250
poems. When asked why she had published so few poems
she once retorted, I have a trash can in my home. A heavy
smoker throughout her life, Wysawa Szymborska died of
lung cancer in that home on February 1st, 2012 at the
age of 88. She is buried in Krakws Rakowicki Cemetery.
Wisawa Szymborska
86
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and a nice collection of historical images of Krakw. Q
Open 11:00-18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-15:30. Closed Mon, Tue,
except for groups (3 person minimum) who arrange at least
7 days in advance. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 8/5z, Sun free. Y
Home Ar my Museum
(Muzeum Armii Krajowej)
J-1, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel.
(+48) 12 410 07 70, www.
muzeum- ak.krakow.pl . A
beautifully restored 3-floor red-
brick railway building has been
adapted (including a beauti ful
glass atrium) to house the Home Army Museum - document-
ing Polands military resistance against foreign invaders over
the last century. The permanent exhibition will not open
until September 2012, however some small temporary ex-
hibits have been on display since the summer. Sadly lacking
in English information, the Home Army Museum currently has
little to offer foreigners, but looks set to be a nice addition
to the citys cultural offerings when it opens in earnest.
QOpen 10:30 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun.
Admission 5/2.50z, family ticket 10z. Y
Jan Matejko House (Dom Jana Matejki) D-3, ul.
Floriaska 41, tel. (+48) 12 422 59 26, www.muzeum.
krakow.pl. Jan Matejko was Polands greatest historical
painter whose work and life is honoured in the house where
he was born, lived and would eventually die in the 1890s.
As well as some wi tty imaginings of Krakw medieval
life, studies for gargoyles and collections of Renaissance
furniture and antique guns and ammo, the minutiae of
Matejkos life is preserved, right down to his eyeglasses in
this recently renovated museum. A fascinating tribute to a
genuine Polish master, and a man of many parts. Those with
a special interest in Matejko may want to visit his workshop
and manor house in Nowa Huta (see Nowa Huta Museums),
and the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery where many of his
greatest works are displayed. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
closing. Admission 8/4z, family ticket 16 z, audioguide 5z.
Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Y
Jzef Mehoffer House (Dom Jzefa Mehoffera)
A-2, ul. Krupnicza 26, tel. (+48) 12 370 81 80, www.
muzeum.krakow.pl. Mehoffer was one of the turn of the
19th centurys artistic elite, a skilled stained-glass artist
collaborating with Wyspaski on the interiors of numerous
Krakw churches and important buildings. This, his house,
was where the artists of the Moda Polska (Young Poland)
movement often met and is a delight to visit, filled with
elegant furnishings, Art Deco to impressionist-era art and
many sketches, designs and finished stained glass pieces
that attest to his important artistic legacy. In warmer months
you wont find a more magical place to relax and read a
book than the hidden garden behind the house, presided
over by the old-fashioned Cafe Waka - one of the citys
best-kept secrets. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Admission 8/4z, family ticket 16z. Sun free for permanent
exhibitions. Y
Manggha B-6, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267
27 03, www.manggha.pl. The Museum of Japanese Art &
Technology houses the National Museums Japanese arte-
facts, consisting primarily of local legend Feliks Jasieskis
fabulous 6,500-piece collection, featuring battlesuits, an-
tiques, porcelain, incredibly beautiful watercolour paintings
and comical woodprints. The modern building was created
by legendary Polish film director Andrzej Wajda, a native of
Krakw who saw the private collection of Feliks Jasieski ex-
hibited during WWII. Upon winning the Kyoto city prize in 1987,
Wajda donated the US$340,000 grant for the construction
of the museum. Q Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon. Last en-
trance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 15/10z, family
ticket 25z, group ticket 60z, Tue free. Guided tours 100z.
National Museum in Krakw (Muzeum Narodowe
w Krakowie) H-3, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 295
55 00, www.muzeum.krakow.pl. Far from being the
shoeless peasants many cynical historians would have us
believe, previous generations of Poles have in actual fact
excelled in the arts. The superb National Museum of Art
in Krakw showcases many such examples of their work.
As well as a number of world-class temporary shows, the
museum also houses fine collections of Polish applied arts
and weaponry and gives its entire top floor over to the
permanent 20th-century Polish Art exhibition, a truly awe-
some collection - showcasing the works of such visionaries
as Kantor, Wyspiaski and Witkacy - that any gallery would
be more than proud of owning. The museum also houses a
small shop and TriBeCa caf. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
Sun free for permanent exhibitions. Y
Pharmacy Museum (Muzeum Farmacji) C-2,
ul. Floriaska 25, tel. (+48) 12 421 92 79, www.
muzeumfarmacji.pl. Located inside a wonderful 15th-
century building, Krakws brilliant Pharmacy Museum is
laid out on several floors and includes all manner of exhibits
from full-scale reproductions of ancient apothecary shops
to some beastly snakes in jars and, on the top floor, a really
good display of traditional herbal medicines. Also of inter-
est is the small exhibit dedicated to the extraordinary and
brave Pole, Tadeusz Pankiewicz. Q Open 10:00 - 14:30,
Tue 12:00 - 18:30. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes
before closing. Admission 9/6z.
Town Hall Tower (Wiea
Rat usz a) C- 3, Rynek
Gwny 1, tel. (+48) 12 619
23 18, www.mhk.pl. The only
el ement of the 14th century
Town Hall remaining after many
fires, renovations and uncaring
demolitions, is this 70m-high
tower, proudly standing next to
the Cloth Hall. You are currently
able to climb through the Gothic
vaulted rooms to the 3rd floor,
whi l e the top fl oor remai ns
closed for renovation work on
the clock. On your way up to the viewing point take a look at
the exhibition of some interesting pictures showing Krakw
during the 1960s. Outside the tower you will also find a
metal model of the old Town Hall as it looked in the 18th
century and which is part of a series made specially by the
local authorities to allow the blind to visualise the city.
QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Open from early April (weather de-
pending) to the end of October. Admission 6/4z, family
ticket 12z. Y
Ulica Pomorska (Former Gestapo Cells) H-1, ul.
Pomorska 2, tel. (+48) 12 613 14 14, www.mhk.pl.
People of Krakow in Times of Terror 1939-1945-1956 is
an exhibit that endeavours to recount the misery and cruelty
of foreign domination and totalitarian injustice in Krakw.
Sponsored by the History Museum, the exhibit can be found
alongside the corollary Former Gestapo Cells which are free
Barbican D-2, ul. Basz-
towa, tel. (+48) 12 619
23 20, www.mhk.pl.
The showpi ece of the
citys medieval defences,
the Barbican was built at
the end of the 15th cen-
tury to protect Krakws
main entrance and was
connected to the Floriaska Gate via a drawbridge over
the moat that surrounded it. 24.4 metres in diameter
with walls 3 metres thick this masterpiece of medieval
military engineering proved impenetrable and today
stands as one of the only surviving structures of its
kind in Europe; certainly the most well-preserved. Built
in Gothic style, the Krakw Barbican is topped by seven
turrets and includes 130 defensive slots used by archers
and ri flemen. Today the Barbican is used for various
special events (medieval pageants, jousting contests)
and can be visited as an outdoor museum between
the months of April and October, where youll learn
the history of Krakws defensive walls. As the bastion
is almost always empty, it makes a fantastic place for
a game of tag or an outpost for spying on passersby,
however beware the gruesome sight of pigeons who
have inadvertently lynched themselves in the netting
meant to keep them out of the turrets. We guarantee
youll see at least three. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Open
from early April, depending on weather. Admission
6/4z, family ticket 12z. Ticket is valid for 7 days and
includes admission to the nearby City Defensive Walls.
Barbican
Polish Aviation Museum (Muzeum Lotnictwa
Polskiego) Al. Jana Pawa II 39 (Czyyny), tel.
(+48) 12 642 87 00, www.muzeumlotnictwa.pl.
Until recently this magnificent museum was little more
than a place of marginal interest to flight enthusiasts,
most of them from Poland. A 46 million zoty investment
has changed all that though. The aforementioned fortune
has been spent on a brand new, propeller-shaped build-
ing on four floors, bursting with hi-tech goodies including a
cinema and an interactive space for children alongside a
library, museum shop and a collection of planes including
a marvellous Blriot XI dating from 1909 and a Polish-
built RWD from the 1930s. Considering some 80% of the
financing came from the EU its a little bit disappointing
to see that most of the displays are in Polish only, but
dont let that put you off too much. The rest of the mu-
seum remains intact, including hangars and buildings
containing some remarkable machines, plus uniforms,
photographs and even a complete Spitfire with Polish
markings. The outdoor section (the museum is located
on an old airfield) is littered with aircraft including several
Russian-built fighter jets from the days of the Warsaw
Pact. All in all, the entire ensemble provides exactly the
kind of entertainment and education a museum should
provide, and can take up most of a day to explore thor-
oughly. Northeast of the Old Town on the way to Nowa
Huta, take tram numbers 4, 5, 9, 10, 15 or 40 -or- bus
numbers124 or 424, getting off at the Wieczysta stop.
A taxi if called in advance should cost around 25z each
way. Highl y recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10/5z, Tue free. Y
Out of Centre
Sowacki
Theatre (Teatr
i m. J ul i us z a
S owacki ego)
D-2, Pl. w. Du-
cha 1, tel. (+48)
12 424 45 00,
www. sl owacki .
krakow.pl. An ar-
chitectural master-
piece. Designed by
Jan Zawiejski, and completed in 1893, the Sowacki
theatre came under fierce criticism when plans for it
were first unveiled - the medieval Church of the Holy
Ghost was demolished to make way for it, much to the
disgust of cultural bigwigs like Jan Matejko. Modelled
on the Paris Opera the Sowacki is distinguished for its
elaborate facade which is decorated with allegorical
figures. Sadly, the interior is usually off limits to the
publi c unl ess there is a production on; a pl eading
look is usually enough to get past this obstacle. The
foyer and marble staircase are supreme examples
of fin-de-siecle thinking, and the stage curtain is in
itsel f worth the James Bond deviousness needed to
sneak in. Designed by Henryk Siemiradzki it features
beauti ful paintings representing drama, comedy, music
and dance. Polands first cinema show was held here
in 1896. Q Open depending on repertoire. Guided
tours can be arranged by phone (+48 12 424 45 25)
for 130z (up to 40 people), but are only available in
Polish at this time.
Sowacki Theatre
pl.wikipedia.org
If youre admiring Wawel Castle, you might notice the
strange, battered sculpture in front of it at Plac Bernardyski
(C-5). Thats a replica of the Zbruch Idol, a rare and coveted
archaeological treasure from the 9th century. Why so rare?
This is one of the most important Slavic artefacts in the
world - the only sculpture in existence believed to depict a
Slavic god. For that reason, youll find replicas of the Zbruch
Idol in many museums, including the Moscow and Kiev
Historical Museums, however, Krakw has the distinction
of housing the original idol in its fine Archaeological Museum
on ulica Poselska (B/C-4). Commonly associated with the
god of war, Svantevit, the deity didnt do a very good job
defending himself when crusaders tossed him into the
Zbruch river during the Christianisation of the East Slav
tribes in todays Ukraine. Discovered during a drought near
the village of Liczkowce in 1848, the narrow, four-sided
limestone pillar 2.7 metres in height, has three tiers of
badly-weathered bas-reliefs etched on it. The bottom tier
shows a kneeling, bearded figure supporting the upper
tiers with his hands. The smaller middle tier shows a figure
with arms extended, while the large top section has a head
on each side, united under a Slavic noblemans hat. Each
figure possesses a different object: a ring, a drinking horn
and tiny child, a sword and horse, and an eroded solar
symbol. While interpretations differ, many believe these
tiers represent the three levels of the world, with the largest
being that of the gods. Other theoreticians have speculated
it is four separate Slavic gods, not one, while some would
claim the fact that it is made out of stone, not wood, makes
it altogether non-Slavic.
The Zbruch Idol
88
OLD TOWN
89
WAWEL
of charge and impressive in their own right. Youll find the
exhibits just across from Plac Inwalidw, ironically housed
in a building which was originally the headquarters for an
organization that celebrated Polish nationalism and sought
to recover territories outside of Poland with native Polish
populations. Both exhibits are accessed through the interior
courtyard behind a tunnel decorated with chilling black and
white mug shots of former prisoners held here during Nazi
occupation. In what may be more than ironic coincidence, the
hostel situated just above the exhibits is entitled Freedom.
Inside is a meticulously documented record of the era of
Nazi and Communist tyranny in the city, replete with audio
recreations of interrogations and mass executions. There is a
small model of an interrogation room and a plethora of short
bios and histories of the most notorious arrests, tortures,
imprisonments and executions, culminating with the last
Communist show trials in the mid-1950s. Quotations from
victims are juxtaposed poignantly with propaganda posters
from both tyrannies.
The Former Gestapo Cells are literally the prison cells that
housed mostly political prisoners during that era. Many writ-
ings and carved inscriptions are still visible on the walls and
even the illegible ones have been transcribed and enlarged
giving a grim first-hand account of lives (and deaths) of po-
litical prisoners in these very rooms. There are no fairy-tale
endings here, so come prepared for an excellent but sobering
and bluntly tragic display of the history through which Krakw
has suffered. It is absolutely worth a visit and is only about
a 15-minute walk up Karmelicka Street from the Planty.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. Admission 6/5z, Tue
free. Admission to Former Gestapo Cells is free.
Wyspiaski Museum (Muzeum Wyspiaskiego)
B-2, ul. Szczepaska 11, tel. (+48) 12 292 81 83, www.
muzeum.krakow.pl. Dedicated to the beautiful works of
Stanisaw Wyspiaski (1869-1907), Krakws foremost Art
Nouveau artist and one of the citys most celebrated sons.
Of particular interest are the sketches and paintings of his
children, the designs for the stained glass windows of the St.
Francis Basilica and the model of Wawel Hill transformed into
a Polish Acropolis. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 8/4z, family ticket 16z, audioguide 5z, Sun free
for permanent exhibitions. Y
The glorious ensemble that is Wawel, perched on top of the
hill of the same name immediately south of the Old Town
(B-5), is by far the most important collection of buildings
in Poland. A symbol of national pride, hope, sel f-rule and
not least of all fierce patriotism, Wawel offers a uniquely
Polish version of the British Buckingham Palace and West-
minster Abbey rolled into one. A gorgeous assortment
of predominantly Romanesque, Renaissance and Gothic
architecture dating from around the 14th century onwards,
visiting Krakw and not seeing Wawel is like playing tennis
without a ball.
Even for those who know or care little about the countrys
past, Polands ancient seat of royalty contains a vast wealth
of treasures inside its heavily forti fied walls that cant fail
to inspire. Made up of the Castle and the Cathedral, of
which the former contains most, but by no means all of
the exhibitions, Wawels must-see highlights include the
Cathedrals mind-boggling interior, a tantalising glimpse
of Polands very own crown jewels inside the Crown Trea-
sury and, weather permitting, a leisurely stroll around its
courtyards and gardens. After the April 2010 Smolensk
disaster, Wawels Royal Crypts became the final resting
place of President Lech Kaczyski and his wi fe Maria; their
tombs are open to the public free of charge. A full tour of
Wawel, which is hard work but comes with its own rewards,
can take an entire day.
Castle
Wawels prominence as a centre of political power pre-
dates the building of the first Cathedral on the si te in
1000AD. Evidence shows that Wawel Hill was being used
as a forti fied castle before Polands first ruler, Miesco I
(circa 965-992) chose Wawel as one of his official resi-
dences. The first Polish king crowned in Wawel Cathedral
was the teenage Wadysaw the Short (1306-1333) on
January 20, 1319, beginning a tradition that would see
a further 35 royal rulers crowned there up until the 17th
century. All of these rulers used the Castle as a residence,
and all of them added their own architectural details to
the building. The moving of the capital to Warsaw in 1596
and Polands subsequent decline and partitioning saw the
Royal Castle fall into a state of disrepair. The occupying
Austrians used it as a military hospital and even went so
far as to demolish several buildings including a number
of churches on the site. The 20th century saw the Castle
change hands on a number of occasions, with the huge
ongoing renovation works that continue to this day being
halted for a number of reasons, most famously when the
Castle was used as the headquarters of the Nazi Governor
General, Hans Frank, during the German occupation of
WWII. Todays Castle complex is a beguiling muddle of
styl es including Medieval, Romanesque, Renaissance,
Gothic and Baroque. The inner courtyard with its delight-
ful colonnades is a true architectural masterpiece, and
the treasures contained within do much to contribute to
Krakws rightful status as a truly world-class city.
Castle (Zamek Krlewski) B-5, Wawel Hill, tel.
(+48) 22 422 51 55 ext.219, www.wawel.krakow.pl.
Crown Treasury & Armoury (Skarbiec Koronny
i Zbrojownia) Containing among many splendid treats
Polands very own equivalent of the Crown Jewels, the
Crown Treasury & Armoury provides a delightful excursion
into the world of the sumptuous, extravagant and the just
plain violent. To the left, the Crown Treasury features several
glass cases of golden and bejewelled goblets, platters, coins
and other wonders, of which the Szczerbiec, the countrys
original coronation sword, is the ultimate highlight. To the
right the Armoury contains a wonderment of weapons includ-
ing some exceedingly swanky crossbows and a frightening
array of spiky pikes, while the cellar holds a collection of
cannons and replicas of the banners captured at the Battle
of Grunwald. Q Open 09:30 - 17:00, Mon 09:30 -13:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Last entrance one hour before closing.
Admission 18/11z, Mon free for individual visitors. Check
ticket office for details and for tickets.
Lost Wawel (Wawel Zaginiony) Thi s smar tl y
conceived and executed exhibit presents the remaining
fragments of medieval Wawel, including remnants of the
Rotunda of the Virgin Mary (Krakws first church). A com-
puter generated model of Wawel gives visitors a peek to the
early 10th century construction. Q Open 09:30 - 17:00, Mon
09:30 - 13:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Last entrance one
hour before closing. Admission 8/5z, Mon free for individual
visitors. Check ticket office for details and for tickets.
Oriental Art (Sztuka Wschodu) This exhibit in the
western wing of the castle comprises art from the Near
East which was highly prized and fashionable amongst the
Polish nobility as it entered the kingdom via military and trade
contact with Turkey, Iran, the Caucasus and Crimea. Here
visitors will see unique collections of Chinese ceramic and
Japanese porcelain, but the part of the exhibit that makes
it essential are the trophies, banners, weapons and other
artefacts captured during King Jan Sobieski IIIs famous
victory over the Turkish army at Vienna in 1683, including
Ottoman commander Kara Mustapha Paras sabre. Q Open
09:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last
entrance one hour before closing. Admission 8/5z.
fot. Stanisaw Michta
pl.wikipedia.org, author KHRoN
Stained glass enthusiasts
will have an absolute field
day in Krakw, which has
many fine examples of the
craft arguabl y some of
the best in Europe thanks
to a proliferation of ancient
churches and bei ng the
home city of resident genius-
es Stanisaw Wyspiaski
and Jzef Mehoffer. Though
there are many fantasti c
examples of intricate medi-
eval window art throughout
the ci ty par ti cul arl y i n
Wawel Cathedral and St.
Marys Basilica the form
really reached its pinnacle
at the turn of the century
during Krakws Art Nou-
veau heyday (Moda Polska)
during which time Mehoffer
and Wyspi aski were at
the height of their creative
powers. After working together under the supervision of
Polish master Jan Matejko to restore the stained glass
windows of St. Marys Basilica (C-3, Pl. Mariacki 5) on
Krakws market square in 1899, both Mehoffer and
Wyspiaski turned their energy to stained glass with
Wyspiaski shortly thereafter producing perhaps his
most defining work the intricate interior wall paintings
of St. Francis Basilica (C-4, Pl. Wszystkich witych 5)
and the imposing, almost violently energetic stained glass
window entitled God in the Act of Creation (pictured) over
its entrance. Argued by some to be the greatest modern
stained glass window in the world, it is certainly a must-
see for all visitors. Followed by a commission to design
a triptych of windows for Wawel Cathedral, Wyspiaskis
incredible portrayals of St. Stanisaw, Kazimierz the Great
and Henryk Pobony were deemed too grotesque and
controversial to install, only recently finding a home over
100 years later in the purpose-built Wyspiaski Pavilion
(C-4, Pl. Wszystkich witich 2). Almost unknown even to
locals, Wyspiaski designed one other large-scale stained
glass masterpiece in Krakw before his premature death
in 1907 at age 38 and the height of his genius. One of
the citys best kept secrets, Apollo: the Copernican Solar
System lies hidden in the Medical Society House at ul.
Radziwiowska 4 (E-3) unseen from the outside on this
obscure street near the train station. Though the building
is not open to the public, name-dropping the artist should
be enough for the guard to let you in to have a brief look
at the majestic window at the top of the stairs.
The bulk of Mehoffers creative output meanwhile was
commissioned outside of Krakw, however enthusiasts
will want to visit his mansion at ul. Krupnicza 26 (A-2)
which has been beautifully preserved as a portal back in
time 100 years. In the Jzef Mehoffer House museum
visitors will see dozens of his sketches, designs and
finished stained glass pieces throughout the rooms of
his family home. Likewise, the Wyspiaski Museum
(B-2, ul. Szczepaska 11) displays evidence of the
monumental output of Krakws most celebrated son,
including the original pastels of his window designs. For
more see Museums.
Stained Glass in Krakw
Wyspiaskis God the
Creator
Lestath
90
91
WAWEL
Sandomierska Tower (Baszta Sandomierska)
One of Wawels two artillery towers, Sandomierska Tower was
built around 1460 to defend the castle against attack from the
south. A small chamber on the third floor would have served
as either a guards lodging or a prison for nobles, whereas
common criminals were held in the dungeons. Recently opened
to tourists, climb the 137 winding steps for great photo oppor-
tunities, particularly of the castle courtyard and Cathedral. Q
Open from May 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 4z. Children under
7 free. Tickets are sold from a machine outside the entrance.
State Rooms & Royal Private Apartments
(Reprezentacyjne Komnaty i Prywatne Aparta-
menty Krlewskie) Two collections in one, of which the
latter is only accessible on a specially conducted guided tour,
these are the rooms in which the royals once lived and did their
entertaining. The spectacular State Rooms seemingly go on
forever, and are full of luscious oil paintings, intricate 16th-
century Flemish tapestries, some truly extraordinary wallpaper
and the breathtaking Bird Room. Highlights include the eerie
Deputies Hall, complete with 30 wooden representations of
former Krakw residents heads on the coffered ceiling and
an original throne that really brings the majesty of Polands
past to life. The Royal Private Apartments are, as one would
expect, stunning. Packed with delightful Gothic and Renais-
sance details, rooms include the wonderful Guest Bedroom,
complete with original Renaissance larch wood ceiling, and
the charmingly named Hens Foot - two small rooms inside
the 14th-century Belvedere Tower. What these rooms were
originally used for is anyones guess, but the view from the
windows is well worth the visit. Q Open 09:30 - 17:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission to State Rooms
18/11z. Royal Private Apartments 25/19z (guide included).
Cathedral
The scene of the crowning of almost every Polish king and
queen throughout history, the current Wawel Cathedral
is the third to be built on the site. The first cathedral was
built of wood, probably around 1020, but certainly after
the founding of the Bishopric of Krakw in 1000AD. De-
stroyed by fire it was replaced by a second cathedral that
subsequently burnt down again. The current building was
consecrated in 1364 and built on the orders of Polands
first king to be crowned at Wawel, Wadysaw the Short
(aka. Wadysaw the Elbow-high, 1306-1333), who was
crowned among the charred rubble of its predecessor in
1319. Considered the most important single building in
Poland, Wawels extraordinary Cathedral contains much
that is original, although many glorious additions have been
made over the centuries. Arguably not as stunning as that
of its cousin St. Marys on the Rynek, the interior of Wawel
Cathedral more than makes up for its visual shortcomings
thanks to the sheer amount of history packed inside. At its
centre is the imposing tomb of the former Bishop of Krakw,
St. Stanisaw (1030-1079), a suitably grand monument
dedicated to the controversial cleric after whom the Cathe-
dral is dedicated. Boasting 18 chapels, all of them about
as ostentatious as youre ever likely to see, of particular
interest is the 15th-century Chapel of the Holy Cross, found
to the right as you enter and featuring some wonderful
Russian murals as well as Veit Stoss 1492 marble sar-
cophagus to Kazimierz IV. The Royal Crypts offer a cold
and atmospheric diversion as the final resting place of
kings and statesmen - most recently fromer president Lech
Kaczyski - while at the top of a gruelling wooden series of
staircases is the vast, 11 tonne Sigismund Bell - so loud
it can supposedly be heard 50km away.
Cathedral (Katedra) B-5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429
33 27, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00,
Sun 12:30 - 17:00.
Cathedral Museum (Muzeum Katerdralne)
B- 5, Wawel 2, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.kat-
edra-wawelska.pl. Opened i n 1978 by Karol Woj tya
j ust before he became Pope John Paul I I, the fabul ous
Cathedral Museum features a weal th of rel i gi ous and
secul ar i tems dati ng from the 13th century onwards,
al l rel ated to the ups and downs of the Cathedral next
door. Among i ts most valuabl e possessions is the sword
del i beratel y snapped i nto three pi eces at the funeral
of the Cal vi ni st ki ng, Zygmunt August (1548-1572) the
l ast of the Jagi ell onian dynasty, as well as all manner of
coronati on robes and royal i nsi gni as too boot. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 - 17:00. Last entrance 30
mi nutes before cl osi ng.
Royal Crypts (Groby Krlewskie) B-5, Wawel 3,
tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.katedra-wawelska.
pl. Whil e al l Pol ands pre-16th ki ngs were buri ed be-
neath or wi thin their hulking sarcophagi still on vi ew in
the Cathedral today, that trend stopped in 1533 when
King Si gismund I had his wi fe interred in a purpose-buil t
underground vaul t. He j oined her in 1548 and the crypts
were expanded in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuri es to
house the remains of nine more Polish kings, their wi ves
and, in some cases, their chil dren thereafter. Upon the
demise of the monarchy (and kingdom i tsel f), the honour
was extended to statesmen wi th Pri nce Jzef Poni -
atowski (1817), Tadeusz Kociuszko (1818), poets Adam
Mi cki ewi cz (1890) and Jul i usz Sowacki (1923), Jzef
Pi sudski (1935) and General Wadysaw Sikorski (1993)
all securing themsel ves a place here. Most recentl y - in
April of 2010 - the late Presi dent Lech Kaczyski and his
wi fe Maria were controversiall y interred here after the
tragedy in Smolesk; admission to their tomb (and that of
Pisudski) is free. Descend the stairs inside the Cathedral
into the remarkabl y chill y chambers, beginning wi th the
11th century St. Leonards Crypt - the best Romanesque
interior in PL; the exi t deposi ts you back outside. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 - 17:00.
Sigismund Bell (Dzwon Zygmunta) B- 5, Wawel
3, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Fol l ow the crowds up
the many gruelli ng fli ghts of Si gismunds Bel fry to reach
the i nfamous Si gi smund Bel l - a resoundi ng symbol of
Pol i sh nati onal i sm al a Phi l adel phi as Li berty Bel l. The
l argest by far of fi ve bel l s hangi ng i n the same tower,
Si gi smunds Bel l wei ghs i n at an astoundi ng 13 tonnes
(9630 kgs), measures 241cm i n hei ght, 242cm across
at the l i p and vari es from 7 to 21cm thi ck. The bronze
beauty was cast i n 1520 on the orders of Ki ng Si gi s-
mund I and i s adorned i n rel i efs of St. Stani sl av and St.
Si gi smund as wel l as the coat of arms of Pol and and
Li thuani a. Rung to thi s day on rel i gi ous and nati onal
hol i days, as wel l as si gni fi cant moments i n hi stor y
(most recentl y the funeral of former Presi dent Lech
Kaczyski and hi s wi fe) the bel ls peal can be heard
50km away and i s qui te an enterpri se to ri ng, requi ri ng
the strength of twel ve strong men; a dangerous j ob,
the bel l -tol l ers are actual l y l i fted from the ground by
the force of the bel l, resul ti ng i n at l east one famous
acci dent when a bel l -tol l er was fl ung from the tower to
hi s death duri ng the i nterwar peri od. The entrance to
Si gi smund Bel l tower i s wi thi n the Cathedral and ti ckets
(good for the Royal Crypts as wel l) are purchased at the
ti cket of fi ce across from the Cathedrals main entrance.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 - 17:00.
WAWEL
Dragons Den (Smocza
Jama) B-5, Western, low
end of Wawel Hill, www.
wawel.krakow.pl. Formed
about 25 million years ago,
the spectacul ar l i mestone
formati on of Wawel Hi l l i s
not the soli d pi ece of rock
i t appears to be, but rather
fi l l ed wi th eeri e caves and
cr awl spaces. As l egend
woul d have i t, the craggy
chambers beneath Wawel
were once home to Smok
Wawel ski , or t he Wawel
Dragon, a parti cularl y nasty
creature who l i ked nothi ng
more than to gorge himsel f
on sheep and l ocal mai dens. Story goes that as the
village ran out of virgins, the King promised the hand
of his onl y daughter to the hero who coul d vanquish the
vil e beast. Wave upon wave of brave kni ghts fell beneath
the dragons fi ery breath before a poor cobbl er named
Krak tri cked Smok i nto eati ng a sheep stuf fed full of
sulphur, whi ch instantl y i gni ted insi de his gull et. Wi th an
unquenchabl e thirst the dragon went and drank hal f the
ri ver before his distended bell y expl oded and the town
was freed of his wrath. The rest, as they say, is history:
Krak marri ed the princess, became king, buil t his castl e
on the dragons lair and the peopl e buil t a ci ty around i t
named Krakw after their king.
Smoks bones were hung tri umphantl y outsi de the
entrance of the Cathedral, where they remain today. His
cave later became a famous tavern and brothel during
medi eval times and is now a tourist trap luring famili es
into i ts dripping, l ess than awe-inspiring confines. Save
this for last as you enter a descending staircase from
insi de the castl e courtyard where i t overl ooks the Wisa
Ri ver, to be l ater deposi ted outsi de the compl ex on
the ri verbank bel ow in front of Smoks sculpted bronze
likeness unveil ed in 1972 to a desi gn by the l ocal artist
Bronisaw Chromy. I t was once possi bl e to send Smok
an SMS whi ch woul d send him into temporary raptures
of fire-breathing bliss, however he now does i t wi thout
checking his phone first, so j ust be pati ent and don t
l ook down his throat. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. From May
10:00 - 18:00. Admissi on 3z. Ti ckets are purchased
from a machine outsi de the entrance.
One of Wawels most well-known, but officially unen-
dorsed legends is that of the fabled chakra stone.
A chakra, fyi, is a natural energy point or centre of
consciousness found in every living being, as believed
in the religious, spiritual and yogic traditions of India,
China, and independent groups in the West. According
to chakra doctrine, there are seven chakra points on the
body corresponding with the seven sacred stones the
Hindu goddess Shiva flung across the earth as a gift to
mankind. Those seven stones just so happened to land
in some of the most important spiritual centres on earth,
namely Rome, Mecca, Delhi, Delphi, Jerusalem, Velehrad
(CZ) and - what do you know? - the northwestern corner
of Wawels immaculate courtyard. At least thats where
believers claim to have felt its cosmic energy the stron-
gest. Most believers simply place their hands against
the supposed energy source, though some have gone
so far as to stand on their heads with back, palms and
heels pressed against it leaving oily smudges on the
wall that reveal its location to the uninitiated (when you
enter the courtyard, turn left and make for the corner).
Doing such today wont earn you much sympathy from
the Castle staff who consider the legend a nuisance and
have done everything they can to deflect attention away
from Wawels famous corner, including putting up a sign
asking people to refrain from touching it (that obviously
didnt work), roping it off, putting museum exhibits over
top of it and having a guard stand nearby as was the case
during our last visit. Wawel tour guides are stricken from
speaking about the chakra stone, as youll quickly learn
if you broach the topic with one. Still dont let that stop
you from getting your chakra on.
The Wawel Chakra
Cathedral Tickets & Tourist Information
B-5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 12 429 95 15, www.
katedra-wawelska.pl. The Cathedral and the Castle
have different ticket offices. Tickets for the Cathedral can
be purchased only in the ticket office directly opposite
the Cathedral entrance. While entrance to the actual
cathedral itsel f is free you will need a ticket to enter
the adjoining Royal Crypts and Sigismund Bell tower.
A single ticket covers these as well as the Cathedral
Museum. Audioguides for the Cathedral and Cathedral
Museum can be rented from the ticket office for 7/5z in
Polish, English, German, Russian, Italian, Spanish, Czech
or French. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30, Sun 12:30 - 16:30.
Tickets covering the Cathedral Museum, Royal Crypts
and Sigismund Bell cost 12/7z.
Cathedral Tickets
Wawel Visitor Centre B-5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48)
12 422 51 55 (ext. 219), www.wawel.krakow.pl.
Wawel visitor numbers are restricted and tickets are
timed in an attempt to prevent overcrowding. To guar-
antee entry as well as avoiding the need to stand in long
queues, call tel. 12 422 16 97 to reserve tickets for
the exhibition you want to see at least one day before
you visit. Tickets should be collected at the Wawel Visitor
Centre Reservation Service Office at least 30mins before
the reserved tour time. All exhibits are self-guided except
for the Royal Apartments, however foreign language
guides can be arranged at extra cost if done in advance.
In addition to ticket sales and pick-up, the Visitor Centre
is also the place to get more info about various theme
tours on offer, pick up free maps or make use of the
small post office, gi ft shop and caf/restaurant. Q
Open 09:00 - 19:00. From May open 09:00 - 20:00.
Ticket office open 09:00 - 16:45; Sat, Sun 09:30 - 16:45.
Wawel Visitor Centre
The Senators Hall fot. Anna Stankiewicz
fot. Anna Stankiewicz
92
93
KAZIMIERZ
were cobbled and walls that once ringed Kazimierz demol-
ished. Kazimierz was finally going places; in 1857 the first
gas lamps lit up the streets, a tram depot added in 1888
and in 1905 a power station. By 1910 the Jewish popula-
tion stood at 32,000, a figure that was to nearly double
during the inter-war years, and a rich cultural li fe arose
around them. But this was to change with the outbreak of
WWII, and the Nazis monstrous ideas of racial superiority.
Approximately three to five thousand of Krakws Jews
survived the horror of the Holocaust, a large proportion
of them saved by Oskar Schindler. Although 5,000 Jews
were registered as living in Krakw in 1950 any hopes of
rekindling the past soon vanished. The anti-Zionist policies
of the post-war communist authorities sparked waves of
emigration to Israel, and by the 1970s signs of Jewish li fe
had all but disappeared. The fall of communism in 1989
sparked new hope. Kazimierz by this time had become a
bandit suburb, the sort of place youd only visit with military
backup. But investment began trickling in and the areas
decline was reversed; 1988 saw the first Jewish Festival
take place, and five years later the Judaica Foundation was
opened. That was also the year Spielberg arrived to film
Schindlers List, a film that would put Kazimierz on the
world map and irrevocably change its fortunes. Today a
visit to Kazimierz ranks just as high on itineraries as a trip
to Wawel, illustrating the historical importance and public
regard the area has.
Kazimierz Churches
Corpus Christi Church (Koci Boego Ciaa)
D/E- 6/7, ul. Boego Ciaa 26, www.bozecialo.net.
This massive brick beauty from the 14th century takes
up two entire blocks in Kazimierz, making it one of the
citys largest holy sites. A three-naver in the Gothic style,
the pulpit features a golden boat (with oars and a mast
even) being held aloft by two mermaids. And though there
are few things we like more than mermaids, the crowning
glory has to be the towering golden altarpiece (removed
for renovation unfortunately). According to legend, a rob-
ber who had stolen a precious relic from another church
repented on this spot, abandoni ng the reli quary. The
priests in pursui t saw a strange li ght emanating from
the ground and discovering their sacred prize, founded a
church here in recognition of the miracle. Q Open 08:30
- 12:00, 13:00 - 19:00, Sun 06:30 - 20:00. Not visiting
during mass please.
KAZIMIERZ
Plac Nowy D-6. While Krakws main square, Rynek
Gwny, makes all the postcards and photographs, it is
Plac Nowy in Kazimierz that has emerged as the spiritual
centre of Krakw sub-culture. Lacking the splendour of
the Old Town, Plac Nowy is, if anything, something of an
eyesore - a collection of unkempt buildings surrounding
a concrete square filled with chipped green market stalls
and rat-like pigeons flapping about. If you want something
completely different from the Old Town, however, here it is.
Plac Nowy started assuming its shape in 1808 having
been incorporated into the Jewish quarter in the late 17th
century, and its Jewish connections are highlighted by an
oft-encountered local insistence on referring to it as Plac
ydowski (Jewish Square). For over 200 years it has served
as a market place with its central landmark, the round mar-
ket building, being added in 1900. The rotunda was leased
to the Jewish community in 1927 serving as a ritual slaugh-
terhouse for poultry right up until Nazi occupation. Following
the war it resumed its role as the centre of the market
around it, a function it still carries today. Apparently its the
only place in Krakw where you can purchase horsemeat,
though savages with unrefined taste will instead be found
lining up outside the dozen or so hole-in-the-wall fast food
hatches that operate from the rotunda. Most legendary of
these is Endzior, a rite-of-passage for any first time visitors
to Kazimierz. Placing their order through the slit-like window
youll find everyone from police blokes ignoring emergency
calls on their walkie-talkies, to stick-thin party girls getting
their weeks worth of calories; Kazimierz without Endzior is
like Rome without a coliseum.
Surrounding the Okrglak (rotunda) are some 310 trad-
ing stalls, and youll find something going on daily from
5:30am till early afternoon. Fresh produce, sweets and
random rubbish are constant guarantees but weekly
highlights include Sundays clothing market, and Tuesday
and Friday mornings bewildering small critter expo/
pigeon fair, the latter of which is a photo essay waiting
to happen. Arrive early to find the answer to the riddle,
How many rabbits fit in a suitcase?
As trade dries up for the day the area takes on a new
guise: Krakws premier pub crawl circuit. Find the aca-
demics with beads, beards and secondhand books in
places like Singer, Alchemia and Les Couleurs, while
the similarly dark and arty Mleczarnia down the road
(ul. Meiselsa) can boast a superb toilet that doubles as
a time portal to the 1920s. Full of shambolic charm, the
square is (sadly?) beginning to diversify to a degree with
glammy pre-club places like Le Scandale, Baroque
and Zbilenia paving the way for more recent openings
like Taawa - the first danceclub to open on Plac Nowy.
Sadly plans are now afoot to renovate this historic square
with the controversial winning design already receiving a
rubber-stamp. Shockingly, the numerous market stalls
which have been a part of Plac Nowy since its beginnings
would disappear, a permanent stage would be installed at
one side and parking on the square would be prevented.
While the city has scored successes with similar revitalisa-
tion projects lately, theres nothing flaccid about the fizz of
Plac Nowy and were encouraged to hear that a lack of funds
has delayed the start of the project indefinitely. Still, soak
up the bohemian atmosphere of the area now before its
all swanky cocktail bars and stupefying street performers.
Plac Nowy
Kazimierz is the district that housed Krakws Jews for over
500 years. Since the 1990s it has been rediscovered, and
its expunged Jewish culture gradually reintroduced. Famous
for its associations with Schindler and Spielberg, theres
more to the historic Jewish quarter than cemeteries and
synagogues. Lying between shops selling buttons and
spanners, youll find the heart of Krakows artsy character.
Peeling faades and wooden shutters hide dozens of cafes,
many effecting an air of pre-war timelessness. Alternative,
edgy and packed with oddities this is an essential point of
interest to any visitor.
The history of Kazimi erz can be traced back to 1335
when i t was of fi ciall y founded as an island town by King
Kazimi erz the Great. Unlike Krakw, whi ch was largel y
popul ated by Germans, Kazi mi erz was domi nated by
Pol es. I t was not until 1495 when Jews were expell ed
from Krakw that they started to arri ve to Kazi mi erz
in force. Awarded i ts Magdeburg Ri ghts, whi ch all owed
markets to be hel d in what is now Pl. Wolni ca, Kazimi erz
prospered and i t is recorded as being one of the most
influential Polish towns during the mi ddl e ages. By the
17th century Jewish li fe was fl ourishing and numerous
synagogues had been constructed. Alas, Kazimi erz was
about to run out of luck. In 1651 the area was hi t by the
plague, then four years later ransacked and ruined by
the Swedish invaders. Famine, fl oods and anti -Jewish
riots foll owed in qui ck succession, and i t wasn t l ong till
a mass mi gration to Warsaw began, l eaving the once
vi brant Kazimi erz a broken shell.
In 1796 Krakw came under Austrian control, and four years
later Kazimierz was incorporated into Krakw. It was to
signal the areas rebirth. The governing Austrians ordered
Krakws Jews to resettle in Kazimierz, and the area was
slowly redeveloped; timber houses were banned, streets
Plac Wolnica D-7. Perhaps Krakws most forgotten
square, its hard to imagine that Plac Wolnica was once
equal in size and stature to Krakws Rynek Gwny.
When laid out as the town square of Kazimierz (Rynek
Kazimierski) upon the towns establishment in 1335,
this space measured 195m by 195m (only 5m shorter
on each side than Rynek Gwny) making it the second
largest market square in Poland, if not Europe. It was
here that all the administrative and judicial authorities
of Kazimierz were established, as well as hundreds of
market stalls selling everything from fur and tobacco to
salt and amber. Hardly the bustling marketplace it once
was, todays Plac Wolnica (named so since the end of
the 18th century when it was granted the privilege of
free trade) covers only a small fragment of the squares
original size. However, the Town Hall has managed to sur-
vive. Falling into ruin after Kazimierzs incorporation into
Krakw in 1802, the Town Hall was taken over by local
Jewish authorities who renovated it into its present neo-
Renaissance style in the late 19th century. Since WWII it
has housed the recommended Ethnographic Museum.
Ironically, it has been the once more predominantly Jew-
ish neighbourhoods around Plac Nowy that have keyed
Kazimierzs revival over the last decade as Plac Wolnica
has become more synonymous with parking, pigeons
and drunken derelicts. That is all beginning to change
however, with more cafs and restaurants opening
around its edges and a new pedestrian bridge connect-
ing Kazimierz with Podgrze over the river to the south.
Plac Wolnica
Kazimierz Town Hall/Ethnographic Museum on Plac Wolnica
fot. Marcin W
ul. Szeroka 31
Krakw
tel. 698 478 500
open: 12:00 - 23:00
94
95
Recommended for families and more fun than it sounds, the
science exhibits will hold kids interest long enough for Dad to
look at car engines, while Mom dreams of escaping on that
motorbike. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission
8/5.5z, family ticket 24z. Y
Ethnographic Museum (Muzeum Etnograficzne)
D-7, Pl. Wolnica 1, tel. (+48) 12 430 55 63, www.etno-
muzeum.eu. Founded in 1911 by the teacher and folklore
enthusiast Seweryn Udziela (1857-1937) and located inside
Kazimierzs former Town Hall, this cultural highlight usu-
ally gets overlooked by tourists - wrongfully so. Theres not
enough space here to wax lyrical about the delights inside,
including beauti ful recreations of 19th-century peasant
houses, folk costumes, some extraordinary examples of the
so-called Nativity Cribs, the breathtaking top floor collection
of folk art and two reproduced folk rooms - Izba Podhalaska
and Izba Krakowska. With many of the exhibits explained in
good English, all we need say is it does a highly commendable
job of promoting and explaining Polish folk culture, and cant
come recommended enough. A separate gallery for changing
exhibits can be found nearby at ul. Krakowska 46. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 9/5z, Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Galicia Jewish Museum (ydowskie Muzeum
Galicja) E-6, ul. Dajwr 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 68 42,
www.galiciajewishmuseum.org. The brainchild of award-
winning photo-journalist Chris Schwarz, The Galicia Jewish
Museum is comprised of some 135 photographs aimed
at keeping alive the memory of Jewish life in the south of
Poland in the aftermath of the Holocaust. Schwarzs images
of forgotten cemeteries, derelict synagogues and death
camps prove haunting and sober viewing, and deserve to
be an essential part of any Kazimierz tour. Though his exhi-
bition serves as the focal point, the converted warehouse
also houses temporary exhibits, a caf, information point
and a bookstore selling a range of titles of Jewish interest.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 15/10z, family ticket 30z.
Children under 7 free. Guided tours for groups of over 10 cost
13.50/8z per person; individual guided tours cost 60-100z
depending on tour time. Tours available in English, French
and German (book in advance for French and German). Y
Isaacs Synagogue (Synagoga Izaaka) E-6, ul. Kupa
18, tel. (+48) 12 430 22 22, www.chabadkrakow.pl.
Isaacs Synagogue, built in the early Judaic-Baroque style, was
opened in 1644, and was a gift to the city from a wealthy Jew,
Izaak Jakubowicz. It is perhaps the most strikingly beautiful
of the Kazimierz synagogues, decoratively endowed with ara-
besques and arches yet retaining a sober linearity, especially
within. There is much to admire, not least the fragments of
original wall scriptures. Rabbi Eliezer Gurary runs the place
with a smile and is usually on hand to provide information to
all comers. A shop inside sells kosher food, wine and sweets,
Jewish calendars and other items. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Fri
09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat. Admission 5/3z.
New Jewish Cemetery E-6, ul. Miodowa 55. This
enormous cemetery was established in 1800 and was the
burial ground for many of Krakws distinguished Jews in the
19th and early 20th centuries. Its story takes on a darker
aspect with the decimation of the Jewish population between
1939 and 1945. Many of the tombstones are actually no
more than memorials to entire families that were killed in
the Holocaust, which now lie in overgrown clusters. The
rejuvenation of Kazimierz has not fully penetrated the walls
of the New Cemetery, but there are many newly-lit candles
burning over the headstones. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Fri
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat.
KAZIMIERZ
Jarden E-6, ul. Szeroka 2, tel. (+48) 12 421 71 66,
www.jarden.pl. Jewish bookshop that also arranges
guided Schindlers List tours and trips to Auschwitz-
Birkenau. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Jewish Community (Gmina Wyznaniowa
ydowska) D-7, ul. Skawiska 2, tel. (+48) 12 429
57 35, www.krakow.jewish.org.pl. It has around 160
members and organises events and gatherings for the Jewish
community in Krakw. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Jewi sh Communi ty Centr e (Centr um
Spoecznoci ydowskiej w Krakowie) D-6, ul.
Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12 370 57 70, www.jcckrakow.
org. The headquarters of Krakws surviving and strength-
ening Jewish community. JCC organises numerous events
(check website for calendar) and exhibits, arranges tours,
and is home to a large library of Jewish related materials.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:30, Fri 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Judaica Foundation D-6, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel.
(+48) 12 430 64 49, www.judaica.pl. This civic and
cultural centre hosts lectures and exhibits reflecting
Jewish life past and present, and includes a cafe with a
great little rooftop terrace - one of Kazimierzs best-kept
secrets. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Tourist Information D-6, ul. Jzefa 7, tel. (+48)
12 422 04 71, www.infokrakow.pl. Information on
what to see and whats going on in Kazimierz. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00.
Useful Contacts
KAZIMIERZ
Old Synagogue (Stara Synagoga) E-6, ul. Szeroka
24, tel. (+48) 12 422 09 62, www.mhk.pl. Built on the
cusp of the 15th and 16th centuries, the Old Synagogue
serves as the oldest surviving example of Jewish religious
architecture in Poland and is home to a fine series of exhibits
that showcase the history and traditions of Polish Judaism. It
is no longer a working synagogue. The English explanations
assume no great depth of knowledge on the readers part
and are therefore a perfect primer on the subject. In the
midst of all the glass cases stands the bimah enclosed in
an elaborate, wrought iron balustrade. There are also tem-
porary exhibitions held from time to time particularly during
the citys Jewish festival held towards the end of June. The
bookshop sells a fine selection of works related to Jewish
Krakw, in a number of languages. Q Open 09:00-17:00,
Mon 10:00-14:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 8/6z, Mon free. Y
Remuh Synagogue & Cemetery (Synagoga Re-
muh z Cmentarzem) E-6, ul. Szeroka 40, tel. (+48)
12 429 57 35. The smallest but most active synagogue in
Kazimierz, dating from 1553. Under normal circumstances,
if you enter quietly, you may even be afforded a glimpse of
a service. Currently however, restoration works mean youll
need to make an appointment to see the interior or stroll
through the cemetery which was in use until 1800. This
holy burial ground was spared by the vandalism of the Nazis
because many of the gravestones had been buried to avoid
desecration during the 19th century occupation of Krakw by
Austrian forces. Most famous is the tomb of the 16th century
Rabbi Moses Isserles, better known as the Remuh. Beside
him lies his wife, Golda Auerbach, in the cemeterys oldest
tomb. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Admission 5/2z.
Temple Synagogue (Syn-
agoga Tempel) D- 6, ul.
Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12
429 57 35. Kazimierzs new-
est synagogue dates back
to 1862, wi th several l ater
expansions, the most recent
of which was in 1924. Under
Nazi occupati on the buil ding
was used as a warehouse and
stables, yet survived the war
and regular services were even
hel d here until 1968, before
stopping completely a decade
later. Since restoration, the gilded woodwork within now
plays host to many concerts and occasional reli gious
ceremonies, particularly during the annual Jewish Festival
of Culture. Currently, however, renovation works have been
taken up again, meaning youll have to make an appoint-
ment to see the interior. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat. Admission 5/2z.
Skaka (Koci Paulinw, Pauline Church) C-7,
West end of ul. Skaeczna, tel. (+48) 12 421 72 44,
www.skalka.paulini.pl. Commonly referred to as Skaka,
this gorgeous riverside sanctuary is one of the most impor-
tant religious sites in Krakw, with a fair share of history. In
1079, King Bolesaw the Bold accused the bishop of Krakw,
Stanisaw Szczepaski, of treason. According to legend, the
bishop was beheaded with the sword seen next to the altar
and then his body was chopped into pieces on a tree stump.
After the murder, the royal family fell under a curse. To ap-
pease the spirit of the wronged bishop, the family built the
Pauline Church and made regular pilgrimages there to atone
for the murder. Szczepaski was canonised in 1253. The
Skaka crypt is packed tight with important Poles including
composer Karol Szymanowski, writer Czesaw Miosz and
painters Stanisaw Wyspiaski and Jacek Malczewski. Q
Church and crypt open Sundays 06:30-18:00. From April
10th, crypt open every day 09:30-18:00, Sun 10:00-15:00;
church open Sunday 06:30-18:00. However, if closed, access
to either can be gained during the day if youre able to flag a
monk down and ask politely. No visiting during mass please.
St. Catherines (Koci w. Katarzyny) D-7, ul.
Augustiaska 7 (entrance from ul. Skaeczna), tel. (+48)
12 430 62 42, www.parafia-kazimierz.augustianie.pl.
Respected as one of the most beautiful Gothic churches in
Krakw. Most of its furnishings were lost in the 19th century
though the Baroque high altar from 1634 survives. The cloister
built in the time of Kazimierz the Great and decorated with
Gothic murals and 17th century paintings is worth seeing, as
is the south porch decorated with stonework and tracery. Q In
April open during mass only. From May 4th open 10:00 - 16:00,
Sat 11:00 - 14:00, Sun during mass only.
Kazimierz Museums & Synagogues
City Engineering Museum (Muzeum Inynierii
Miejskiej) E-7, ul. w. Wawrzyca 15, tel. (+48) 12 421
12 42, www.mimk.com.pl. Evidence that Polish museums
are catching up with the modern world, this charming museum
inside an old tram depot features five separate exhibitions. The
first two deal with the history of public transport in Krakw and
the development of the Polish automotive industry through a
hangar full of old tram cars and trolleys and a large collection
of unique wheeled vehicles, the third explores the history of
printing in Krakw from the 15th to 20th centuries, while the
other two are fun, interactive exhibits aimed at children and
families. Around the Circle teaches kids fundamental scientific
principles via 30 hands-on play stations, and the outdoor
Garden Of New Words (Ogrdek Nowych Swek) is more like
a playground for 3-5 year-olds where theyll learn first-hand the
meaning of words such as gravity (open in nice weather only).
96
97
PODGRZE PODGRZE
When Spielberg came to Krakw to produce his award-
winning film Schindlers List, the result was a fast and
far-reaching revitalisation of Kazimierz, Krakws former
Jewish district. Ironically, however, it didnt reach across
the river to Podgrze, despite the fact most of the films
historic events took place there, as did much of the film-
ing. As Kazimierz became super-saturated with tourists
and bars, predictions were that Podgrze would emerge
as Krakws next hip bohemian district; however aside
from a small stable of rogue cafes, things were slow to
develop and for a long time getting off the beaten path
in Krakw was as easy as crossing the river to Podgrze.
However, that is all beginning to change with the recent
openi ng of Schi ndl ers Factory and a new pedestrian
bridge that will literally create a direct artery of tourist
traffic into the district.
A district rich in natural beauty, tragic history and unusual
attractions, the first signs of settlement in Podgrze date
from over ten thousand years ago, though the Swedish in-
vasion in the 17th century saw much of Podgrze levelled.
Awarded the rights of a free city in 1784 by the Austrian
Emperor Joseph II, the town was eventually incorporated
as Krakws fourth distri ct in 1915, and the foll owing
decades saw its aggressive development; quarries and
bri ckworks were constructed, and a stri ng of mili tary
forts added, of which Fort Benedict (K-5) is the onl y
still standing. An indication of Podgrzes age is Krakus
Mound (K-5), excavations of which have dated it to the Iron
Age. However, the trespasses of more recent history are
what people most associate with the district. WWII saw
the ghetto in Podgrze become the temporary home of
Krakows Jews, the majority of whom were murdered there,
in the nearby Paszw camp or at Auschwitz Birkenau.
The opening of the Schindlers Factory Museum (K-4,
Lipowa 4) has, in addi tion to helping the ci ty bury the
ghosts of the Holocaust, endorsed Podgrzes status as
a bona fide tourist destination.
Churches
St. Benedicts K-5, Lasota Hill. Take any of the dark,
daunting trails off ul. Rkawka into the wooded limestone
cli ffs of Krzemionki to discover one of Krakws oldest,
smallest and most mysterious churches in the clearing
next to the St. Benedict Fort. The date of the present
structure has been hard to determine, but the curious site
certainly dates back to the 11th century and a leading
theory attributes it to the Benedictine monks of Tyniec.
Saved from destruction and dereliction by a local priest
the tiny, cramped interior - consisting of only a small nave
and chancel with a painting of St. Benedict over the pulpit
- has been restored, but can only be accessed once a year:
ironically, during the pagan Rkawka festival held the first
Tuesday after Easter.
St. Josephs J-5, ul. Zamojskiego 2, tel. (+48) 12
656 17 56, www.jozef.diecezja.pl. Presiding over the
heart of historic Podgrze on the south side of the districts
main square, this unmissable neo-gothic juggernaut was
built between 1905-09 on the design of Jan Sas-Zubrzycki.
Dominated by an 80 metre clock tower, elaborate masonry
dressing, gargoyles and sculptures of saints, St. Josephs
slender, yet imposing brick facade rates among the most
beauti ful in Krakw and is gorgeously illuminated at night.
The interior is no less beauti ful and visitors should also
note the abandoned 1832 bel fry that stands on a rocky
outcropping behind the church - all that remains of the
original temple, dismantled due to design flaws. Q Open
during mass only.
Museums
Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK Muzeum
Sztuki Wspczesnej w Krakowie) K-4, ul. Lipowa
4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. Opened on
May 20th 2011, Krakows Museum of Contemporary Art
(MOCAK) does not disappoint, receiving rave reviews from all
who have been thus far. Tucked behind Schindlers Factory,
the building alone will impress with its avant-garde styling
and ultra-modern layout. The museum boasts a large and
fine permanent collection of modern art highlighting both
Polish and international artists, plus the Mieczysaw Porbski
Library and its collection of works on art theory and history.
Several provocative temporary exhibitions are ever-changing:
check their website for details. Despite the relatively late
closing hour (19:00), make sure to leave yourself plenty of
time to enjoy all the museum has to offer. QOpen 11:00 -
19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance one hour before closing.
Admission 10/5z, family ticket 20z. Tue free.
Pharmacy Under the Eagle (Apteka Pod Orem)
J-4, Pl. Bohaterw Getta 18, tel. (+48) 12 656 56 25,
www.mhk.pl. When the Podgrze disctrict became the
new Jewish ghetto under the Nazi occupation, the owner of
this pharmacy, Tadeusz Pankiewicz, decided to stay on in
Podgrze and do all he could for the 15,000 Jews living at
this last stop on the genocide route. The only Poles allowed
to live and work in the Jewish ghetto, Pankiewicz and his
staff risked their lives in many clandestine operations and
he was later recognised as one of the Righteous Among the
Nations. Today, his pharmacy has been converted to a small
museum, which heartrenderingly portrays life in the ghetto.
Q Open 09:30-17:00, Mon 10:00-14:00. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission 6/5z, Mon free. Y
Podgrze Places of Interest
Bednarski Park J-5, Entrances from ul. Parkowa and
ul. Zamojskiego. Opened with great fanfare at the end of
the 19th century, the parks founder Wojciech Bednarski was
reportedly carried around like a winning quarterback while
newspapers from as far away as St. Petersburg applauded
the parks establishment. Though the park itself doesnt offer
much more than a partially paved path to walk on, this is one
of the most beautiful, captivating natural spaces in Krakw
with limestone cliffs, over one hundred different species of
tree and the remains of an 18th century fortification. Covering
eight and half hectares, Bednarski Park is lush and wild with
trails winding everywhere, in turns shadowy and chimerical,
or open with fine overviews of the city from its various ridges.
Fort Benedict K-5, Lasota Hill. The only surviving fortress
of three that were built in Podgrze in the mid-19th century to
protect the Vistula river and the road to Lww, Fort Benedict
is one of only a few citadels of the Maximillion Tower type
left anywhere. An impressive two-storey brick artillery tower
in the shape of a sixteen-sided polygon with a round interior
yard, the fort has a total surface area of 1500 square metres.
Atop the Krzemionki cliffs on Lasota Hill, it takes its name
from nearby St. Benedicts church. The fortress quickly lost
its usefulness in the 1890s and has since been used as
Austrian military barracks and was even converted into apart-
ments in the 1950s, though today it lies in general dereliction,
filled with abandonned furniture and building materials. After
numerous projects involving the fort failed to develop, care of
Fort Benedict has recently been transferred back to the city
of Krakw, with plans for its renovation awaiting approval. At
the moment, however, it remains impenetrable to tourists,
adding to the scenery and mystique of one of Krakws most
surprising and strange corners.
Krakus Mound (Ko-
piec Krakusa) K-5,
above ul. Maryews-
kiego. The oldest struc-
ture in Krakw, Krakus
Mound i s one of two
prehistoric monumental
mounds in the city and
is also its highest point,
providing incredible panoramic views from its worn sum-
mit. Sixteen metres high, sixty metres wide at the base
and eight metres wide at the top, Kopiec Krakusa stands
in scruffy contrast to the manicured modern mounds
elsewhere in the city, with a muddy path winding around
to a bald peak. The site of pagan ritual for centuries,
the mound retains an ancient, evocative atmosphere
amplified by the surroundings of the cliffs of Krzemionki,
the green rolling fields of Paszw, the grim Liban quarry
and the Podgrze cemetery. With incredible views of the
city, Krakus Mound lies at the centre of one of Krakws
least explored and most captivating areas and should be
visited by anyone looking to take a rewarding detour from
the beaten path. It can be approached most easily from
the major intersection of al. Powstacw Wielopolskich
and ul. Wielicka via ul. Robotnicza to the steps of al. Pod
Kopcem (K-5), or by following ul. Dembowskiego (J-5) to
the pedestrian bridge over al. Powstacw Wielopolskich
to the base of the mound.
The result of great human effort and innovative engineer-
ing, Krakus Mound has long been a source of legend and
mystery. Connected with the popular story of Krakws
mythical founder, King Krak or Krakus, the mound is said
to have been constructed in honour of his death when
noblemen and peasants filled their sleeves with sand and
dirt, bringing it to this site in order to create an artificial
mountain that would rule over the rest of the landscape.
In the interwar period, extensive archaeological studies
were undertaken to try to date the mound and verify if
there was truth to the legend that Krak was buried be-
neath it. Though much about the ingenuity of the mounds
prehistoric engineers was revealed, no trace of a grave
was found, however excavations were not completely
comprehensive. A bronze belt was unearthed in the
lower part of the mound and dated to the 8th century,
and there is general agreement today that the mound
was created by a Slavonic colony sometime between the
latter half of the 7th century and the early 10th century,
though other hypotheses credit the structure to the
Celts. Originally there were four smaller mounds around
the base of Kraks mound, however these were levelled
in the mid-19th century during the construction of the
citys first fortress which surrounded the area with a wall
embankment and a moat (later levelled in 1954). The
location of the Krakus Mound and the Wanda Mound in
Mogia (T-4) - the citys other, lesser prehistoric earth-
work - hardly seems accidental. In addition to being an
ideal vantage point over the surrounding valleys, when
standing on the Krakus Mound at dawn on June 20th or
21st the sun can be seen rising directly behind Wandas
Mound; conversely, standing on Wandas Mound at dusk,
the sun sets in a straight line behind Kraks Mound. The
legend of Kraks mound inspired the modern creation
of burial mounds for Kociuszko and Pisudski in Las
Wolski and today they remain one of Polands greatest
archaeological mysteries.
Krakus Mound
Schindlers Factory (Fabryka Schindlera) K-4,
ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 257 10 17, www.mhk.pl.
After years of preparation, the Oskar Schindler Enam-
elled Goods Factory (to give it its full name) has finally
re-opened to the public as a world-class museum. The
story of Oskar Schindler and his employees is one which
has been well-known since the book and film by Thomas
Keneally and Steven Spielberg (whose film Schindlers
List was shot almost entirely in Krakw). The discussions
on whether to open and how to present the story in a
museum lasted many years and it began to look like
the project would never come to fruition. The Historical
Museum of the City of Krakow did eventually manage
to secure the derelict property which once housed
Schindlers factory and the relevant permissions with
the new museum opened on June 10th, 2010.
While the story of Oskar Schindler and his workers is now
covered in detail on the original site, the new museum
casts the city of Krakw in the main role of its perma-
nent exhibition titled, Krakw During Nazi Occupation
1939-1945. Individual histories of Krakws wartime
inhabitants guide visitors through the exhibit which cov-
ers the war of 1939, Krakws role as the seat of the
General Government, everyday life under occupation, the
fate of the Jews and the citys underground resistance
using vast archival documents, photos, radio and film
recordings, period artefacts and dynamic multimedia in-
stallations. A separate section of the factory is reserved
for film screenings, lectures and other cultural events,
while a controversial contemporary art museum under
separate ownership on the same site finally opened in
spring 2011.
The development of the factory into a world-class educa-
tional and cultural site is great news not only for tourists,
but also for Podgrze and the healing process of the city
itself as it reconciles one of the most painful chapters of
its history. A must-visit, this is one of the most fascinating
museums in the entire country and with that in mind we
recommend that you reserve at least two hours if you
want to see everything. Note that visiting groups need
to book in advance using the museum website. Q Open
10:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 16:00. First Monday of every
month open 10:00-14:00. Last entrance 90 minutes
before closing. Admission 17/14z. Guided tours in English
for groups of over 15 people, 16z per person. Mon free
for permanent exhibitions.
Schindlers Factory
Noaa Wikipedia
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NOWA HUTA
The bastard child of a devastated post WWII Poland, the huge
Socialist Realist suburb of Nowa Huta is the direct antithesis
of everything cuddly Krakw is. Gargoyles and tourists? Not
here. The Orwellian settlement of Nowa Huta is one of only
two entirely pre-planned socialist realist cities ever built (the
other being Magnitogorsk in Russias Ural Mountains), and
one of the finest examples of deliberate social engineering
in the world.
Funded by the Soviet Union, Nowa Huta swallowed up a huge
swathe of ideal agricultural land, and the ancient village of
Kocielniki (as well as parts of Mogia and Krzesawice) in
an attempt to create an in-yer-face proletarian opponent
to intellectual, artsy-fartsy, fairytale Krakw. The decision
to build NH was rubber stamped on May 17, 1947 and over
the next few years construction of a model city for 100,000
people sprung up at breakneck speed. One man, Piotr
Oaski, was publicly credited with laying a stupendous
33,000 bricks in one single day. Built to impress, Nowa Huta
featured wide, tree-lined avenues, parks, lakes and the of-
ficially sanctioned architectural style of the time - Socialist
Realism. Nowa Hutas architects strove to construct the ideal
city, with ironic inspiration coming from the neighbourhood
blocks built in 1920s New York (that despicable western
metropolis). Careful planning was key, and the suburb was
designed with efficient mutual control in mind: wide streets
would prevent the spread of fire and the profusion of trees
would easily soak up a nuclear blast, while the layout was
such that the city could quickly be turned into a fortress if it
came under attack.
Somewhat sadly perhaps, the Utopian dream that was Nowa
Huta was never fully realized. However what was completed
is very much worth the trip for intrepid tourists willing to
teleport themselves into a completely different reality far
from the cobbled kitsch of Krakw; its as easy as a tramride.
What To See
Should you take that step, do so onto the platform of Plac
Centralny and find yourself in the central nervous system
of Nowa Huta. Dating from 1949, the Central Square is a
masterpiece of Soviet social planning, and the brainchild of
architect Tadeusz Ptaszycki. In another twist of irony, this
Soviet landmark which once bore Stalins name was officially
redesignated Ronald Reagan Square in 2004, though speak
to any local and youll still find it referred to as Pl. Centralny.
While this square serves as the focal point for visitors, its
the Steelworks that Nowa Huta is known for, not to mention
named after. Poland was in the process of rebuilding itself
from near complete destruction after WWII, and steel was
of vital importance. Work began in April 1950, and by 1954
the first blast furnace was in operation. Employing some
40,000 people in its heyday the Steelworks - named for a
time after Lenin - were capable of producing seven million
tonnes of steel annually, and at one time boasted the largest
blast furnace in Europe. Such was its reputation that Fidel
Castro chose to visit the Steelworks rather than Krakws
Rynek on one state visit to Poland.
Nowa Huta may have been desi gned to be a socialist
showcase city, but the reality was far different. It became a
hotbed of anticommunist activity, with early displays of dis-
sent traced back to the struggle for permission to build the
citys first church, and though it took 28 years, The Lords
Ark (Koci Arka Pana) was finally consecrated in 1977. Not
surprisingly many of Nowa Hutas political protestors could be
found during the day on the factory floor, and the Steelworks
were to play a huge part in the Solidarity strikes of the early
1980s. Identified as an anti-establishment stronghold, the
Steelworks were placed under military control during the pe-
riod of martial law, and today a remembrance room inside the
factory honours those workers who put their lives on the line.
However, while Nowa Huta is the product of the last half cen-
tury, a true tour of the area reveals a number of treasures of
much older historical value. The most epitomising example of a
pre-steel age in the area has to be Wandas Mound - a myste-
rious prehistoric earthwork that proves the areas settlement
predates that of Krakws Old Town. The quiet communities
of Krzesawice and Mogia each hide pristine examples of
ancient Polish sacral architecture in the wooden churches
of St. John the Baptist and St. Bartholomew. Artist Jan
Matejko enjoyed Krzesawice so much he used it as an art-
ist retreat as his preserved period manor house evidences.
Mogia meanwhile harbours one of the most cherished reli-
gious sites in Maopolska in the Cistercian Monastery and
its morbidly miraculous cross. If youve more time to explore,
a walking or cycling tour of Mogias small backroads is akin
to an open-air ethnographic museum, just watch out for the
german shepherds behind every garden fence.
Churches
Church of St. Bartholomew R-5, ul. Klasztorna
11, tel. (+48) 12 644 23 31, www.mogila.cystersi.
pl. Founded by Krakw bishop Iwo Odrow who brought
the Cistercians to Mogia from Silesia in 1222, the pres-
ent structure of this outstanding wooden church dates
from 1466. As the Church of St. Wenceslas across the
street was part of a monastic complex, St. Batholomews
was erected to accommodate the Catholic layman, one of
whom - master carpenter Maciej Mczka - put his name
and completion date on the door after building this enduring
wooden treasure. Exceptional for its three aisles - a rarity
in wooden church architecture - the 18th century bel fry and
beauti ful domed entrance gate have also been preserved.
Mogia is easily accessed from Plac Centralny via trams 15
and 17; get off at the Klasztorna stop and its a short walk
south. Q Please no visiting during mass. Guides can be
arranged in advance.
Chur ch of St . J ohn
t he Bapt i st S - 2, ul .
Wakowicza 21, tel. (+48)
12 642 15 58. Next door to
Matejkos manor house, this is
one of two wooden churches
i n the area. Bui l t bet ween
1633 and 1648 in the village
of Jaworniki in the mountains
on Pol ands eastern border
with Ukraine, when the church
was threatened by demolition
i n the 1980s l ocal authori -
ties surprisingly approved its
transfer to Krzesawice as part of a planned open-air folk
architecture museum which never came to be. A tower
was added and the historic monument took on new li fe
as a place of worship, which continues today with regular
services held in the small, single-aisle interior. Q Open by
prior arrangement.
The Cistercian Monastery R-5, ul. Klasztorna 11,
tel. (+48) 12 644 23 31, www.mogila.cystersi.pl.
Located in what remains of the sl eepy village of Mogi a
that Nowa Huta was pl unked down upon, the anci ent
Cistercian Monastery, wi th i ts two adj oining churches,
was the cl osest place of worship to Plac Centralny until
Arka Pana Church (N-1) was finall y consecrated in 1977.
The vast and spl endi d Church of St. Wenceslas and the
adj oining Cistercian cl oister, whi ch date way, way back
to 1266, are recognised as among the most important
rel i gi ous bui l di ngs i n Maopol ska. Duri ng the Renai s-
sance the monastery was wel l known for i ts master
painters and the huge interior of St. Wenceslas as well
as the monastery li brary feature many fine works from
the peri od. Most i mpor tantl y, St. Wencesl as Church
also stores the famous Cross of Mogi a - the source of
many miracul ous l egends. Said to have been discovered
when a blacksmi ths son j umped i nto the Wisa Ri ver
to save what he thought to be a drowning man fl oating
downstream, the cross was brought to the monastery
and qui ckl y began bui l di ng a reputati on for mi racl es
before cementing them when i t was the onl y part of the
churchs furnishings not destroyed by the fire of 1447,
despi te being made of wood. Christs hair and l oincl oth
were burned however, and ever since that time he has
donned a wrap of true fabri c and a wi g of real human
hair. Weird. The monastery is easil y accessed from Plac
Centralny via trams 15 and 17; get of f at the Klasztorna
stop and i ts a short walk south.
The Lords Ark (Koci Arka Pana) N-1, ul. Obrocw
Krzya 1, tel. (+48) 12 644 54 34, www.arkapana.pl. Built
between 1967 and 1977, Nowa Hutas first house of worship
was designed by Wojciech Pietrzyk and was pieced together
brick by brick by volunteer workers with no assistance from the
communist authorities. The complete opposite of what Nowa
Huta was meant to stand for, The Lords Ark is a remarkable
building, and a true symbol of the Polish belief in Catholicism.
With no outside help it was down to the locals to mix cement with
spades, and find the two million stones needed for the churchs
facade. The first corner stone was laid in 1969 by Cardinal Karol
Wojtyla, who would later assume fame as Pope John Paul II, but
the discovery of a WWII ammunition dump delayed work, and
the precarious removal of some 5,000 mines and shells had
to be completed before work was resumed. Finally, on May 15,
1977, the church was consecrated. Built to resemble Noahs Ark,
with a 70 metre mast-shaped crucifix rising from the middle, the
church houses a mind-boggling array of treasures, including a
stone from the tomb of St. Peter in the Vatican, a tabernacle
containing a fragment of rutile brought back from the moon by
the crew of Apollo 11 and a controversial statue of Christ that
shows him not on a cross, but about to fly to the heavens. And
if you thought it couldnt get weirder then you hadnt gambled
on the statue dedicated to Our Lady the Armoured - get this,
the half metre sculpture is made from ten kilograms of shrapnel
removed from Polish soldiers wounded at the Battle of Monte
Cassino. The church became a focal point during the anti-
communist protests of the early 1980s, not least for the shelter
it afforded the locals from the militia. Protesting during the period
of Martial Law was dangerous business, and thats proved
by the monument dedicated to Bogdan Wosik more or less
opposite the church. Wosik was shot in the chest by security
services, and later died of his injuries. His death outraged the
people, and his funeral was attended by 20,000 mourners. The
monument commemorating the site of his death was erected
in 1992 and is a tribute to all those who died during this period.
Q Lower level open 06:00 - 08:30, 16:30 - 18:30. Upper level
open 09:00 - 17:00. No visiting during mass please.
Museums
Jan Matejko Manor House (Dworek Jana Matejki)
S-1, ul. Wakowicza 25, tel. (+48) 12 644 56 74. Located
in Krzesawice - a charming village just one street behind Nowa
Hutas artificial lake, here youll find the small manor house
with a wood shingle roof once used as a workshop by Polands
greatest 19th century painter, Jan Matejko. Though seemingly
ironic today, this is where the artist went to escape the crude
haste of life in Krakw. First inhabited by Hugo Kotaj - an
eminent Enlightenment political activist who co-penned Po-
lands constitution (the first in Europe), Matejko purchased the
manor in 1876 adding on the porch and the extension which
would house his workshop. Inside guests will see Matejkos
famous Gallery of Polish Kings as well as many illustrations,
everyday items and period furniture. Next door is the wooden
Church of St. John the Baptist - also worth seeing. Q Open
10:00-14:00, Friday only. From mid-April open Mon-Fri 10:00-
14:00, closed Sat & Sun. Admission 7/5z.
Museum of the Armed Act (Muzeum Czynu Zbroj-
nego) O-1, os. Grali 23, tel. (+48) 691 68 82 27, http://
members.chello.pl/s.pietrzyk. An astonishing museum that
doesnt translate into English very well, find inside a series of
dusty rooms several touching exhibits dedicated to those who
fought and died for their nation and who were born in the Nowa
Huta area. In Polish only, most things on display might not mean
much to those lacking a healthy interest in the detritus and para-
phernalia of war, but its well worth popping in if only for a look at
the intriguing and grotesque models of life under the Nazis during
WWII. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Getting to NH is a cinch thanks to a well-designed tram
network. Trams 4 or 15 from Dworzec Gwny (the train
station stop), or tram 22 from Starowilna all go straight
to Plac Centralny.
Getting There
Roses Avenue (Aleja R)
NOWA HUTA
100
101
NOWA HUTA NOWA HUTA
Nowa Huta Museum (Dzieje Nowej Huty) O-2,
os. Soneczne 16 (Nowa Huta), tel. (+48) 12 425 97
75, www.mhk.pl. This small museum features a series
of changing exhibitions relating to the life and culture of the
district. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Note that the museum will be
closed from April 5-17 while the exhibit changes. Admission
5/4z. Wed free.
Places of Interest
The Central Square & Roses Avenue (Plac
Centralny i Aleja R) O-4. The centre of Nowa Hutas
architectural layout, Plac Centralny is the districts primary
landmark and one of social realisms highest architectural
achievements in PL, despite never being completed. The
two main structures of the square were to be the towering
Town Hall (resembling a mini PKiN) at the northern end and
a colonnaded theatre at the southern end, with an obelisk
in between; though the designs were in place, none saw
development. Similarly, the grand promenade linking them -
Roses Avenue (Aleja R, O-3) - was never fully realised, and
terminates after a mere four blocks, making it a fine example
of your typical Stalinist road to nowhere.
While tooling around the six-story arcaded buildings lining
the way, youll find several curiosities worth peeping into.
Perhaps the most timeless shop in Nowa Huta is Cepelix (os.
Centrum B bl.1, O-3; open 10:00-18:00, Sat 10:00-13:00,
Sun closed). Specialising in Polish folk art and design, this
amazing gift shop is like none other thanks to the original
50s interior of stylised furnishings, metal chandeliers and
a coffer ceiling with colourful hand-painted ceramic plates.
The character of this place hasnt changed a bit and as such
its a great place to buy sheepskins, lacework or famous
Bolesawiec pottery at basement prices. Crossing the street
to os. Centrum C, original interiors have also been preserved
in the corner Skarbnica bookshop, but for a true taste of
the district visit the incredible milk bar next door to it. Nowa
Huta is literally chock-a-block with milk bars, but weve never
seen anything as glorious as the midnight blue with a rain-
bow motif interior of this bar mleczny. Topping that, take a
trip to the other end of the block to the legendary Stylowa
Restaurant - one of the only places to eat in NH that isnt
a milk bar. Once one of the most exclusive restaurants in
town, this place carries on in the same spirit as the day it
opened with an interior that hasnt been updated in well over
30 years. Stop in on a Saturday night (from April 10th Fri, Sat
and Sun) to witness pensioned locals strutting their stuff on
the dancefloor to live disco polo sets by a crooning husband
and wife team, and we guarantee you wont be able to leave
before dancing with at least two babcias and having at least
three unwanted conversations. A rare cultural experience,
few places like Stylowa still exist anywhere.
The Sendzimir Steelworks (Huta im. Tadeusza
Sendzimira) T-2, ul. Ujastek 1. While the monumental
Plac Centralny is the face Nowa Huta turns to the public, its
true social realist glorypiece is the Administrative Centre of the
Steelworks - the palatial monstrosities flanking the gate to the
complex. Built between 1952 and 55 to the design of the two
Januszs - Ballenstadt and Ingarten - these twin architectural
monuments crowned with a renaissance comb attic represent
the most exquisite example of the social realism in Poland. If
you could get yourself inside them youd see incredibly well-
preserved examples of 50s decor including black marble
staircases, magnificent candelabras and decorative radiator
shields. Getting inside the Steelworks is indeed a bit of a prob-
lem. Despite plenty of interest, the Steelworks are open only
by special arrangement (or during occassional concerts held
in the former tinning mill) and they dont do English tours (sad
face). Even in that case, you would have to hire an automobile
to begin exploring the immense complex which covers over
1000 hectares with an internal road and rail network dozens
of kilometres long. Some of the Steelworks larger halls could
fit Krakws main market square (the largest in Europe, mind
you) several times over, and the lava-brimming melting ladles
are several stories tall. After communism fell, the patron saint
of the Steelworks was revised from Vladimir Lenin to Polish-
American inventor Tadeusz Sendzimir. In 2005 the complex
was bought by the Indian tycoon Lakshmi Mithal and is now
officially called ArcelorMittal Poland, but you can call it Susan.
Wandas Mound (Kopiec Wandy) T-4, Near inter-
section of ul. Ujastek Mogilski and ul. Bardosa. Though
construction of Nowa Huta began in 1949, Kopiec Wandy is
indisputable evidence that the history of the area goes back
much further. In fact, the village of Mogia, which Kopiec Wandy is
Th e Nowa Hu t a
Cross & Riots O-2,
ul. Ludmierska 2. Con-
ceived as an ideal socialist
ci ty, Nowa Huta was to
be atheist by defi ni ti on
and as such i ts desi gn
didnt designate any ur-
ban plots for troublesome
churchs. As one can imag-
ine, the policy didnt go
over well with the locals
who, backed by Bi shop
Karol Wojtyla - the future
Pope JP2, began fighting
for a permi t to erect a
Catholic place of worship
right from the get-go. Progress finally came with the
political thaw of October 1956: the proper papers and
permissions were granted, a site was chosen and soon
a large wooden cross was erected and consecrated in
the Theatre district. In June 1958, ground was broken
for the foundations, but work was promptly halted as
the leniency of the communist authorities had appar-
ently expired, and the site was designated for a school.
With the intent of removing the consecration cross, the
authorities aptly anticipated a conflict after numerous
protests and special armed forces were rolled in from all
across southern PL. Nowa Huta was officially closed and
a dense column of military trucks, armoured cars, can-
nons and machine guns sealed it off from Krakw, with
the only line of communication between the two cities
being the taxi drivers who announced that the revolution
in Nowa Huta had begun. Tensions broke into an all-out
street war between police and some 4000 defenders of
the cross on April 27, 1960 and lasted for several days
with water cannons, tear gas and dogs unleashed on
the civilian protestors. The number of injured or killed in
the conflict is unknown, but officially distributed reports
(dubious by nature) listed military casualties at 200 and
eyewitnesses suggest the civilian number would have
been three or four times as much. Officially 493 people
were arrested and 87 sentenced to prison stints from 6
months to 5 years in length.
And the cross? It stood, though the planned school was
nonetheless built on the original church site beside it as
armed officers guarded the cross day and night. By the
1970s the Nowa Huta Cross was in sorry shape, and
looking ready to keel over from rot and decay - an idea
which greatly pleased the authorities who assumed
that when it did their troubles would be over. Not so.
A massive new oak cross was secretly prepared and
when the opportunity to install it arose in the late 70s
as the officers were away from their posts for May 1st
celebrations (Communist Labour Day), it was erected
on the site of the original. It would later be replaced by
a metal cross and in 2007 by the bronze cross which
stands today bearing the inscription, To John Paul II,
the Defender of the Cross - the grateful people of Nowa
Huta. The city, meanwhile, would remain without a
church until 1966 when Arka Pana (N-1) was built a half
kilometre away (though it would be prevented from be-
ing officially consecrated until 1977). In 2002, the small
Church of the Sacred Heart was consecrated beside the
Nowa Huta Cross and adjacent school.
The Nowa Huta Cross
The only daughter of Krakus, Krakws mythical founder,
there are many tales chronicling the life of Wanda which
have been the source of numerous literary works and
taken their place in the Polish national consciousness.
First mentioned by a historian of the early 13th century,
Queen Wanda (like all Polish women, mind you) was ap-
parently quite an exceptional lady. Possessed of great
beauty (obviously), grace, wisdom and charm, even the
most ruthless enemies were said to willow at the sight
of her, including a Leman tyrant who - in attempting to
seize a throne he perceived as vacant - laid down his
arms at the sight of her indisputable charms. Not just a
pretty face, Wanda is also credited with military talent,
defeating the Germans in a battle at Skotnickie Lake. As
you can imagine, a lady of such high nobility, endowment
and appeal had her fair share of suitors and apparently
the list of humiliated hopefuls throwing themselves on their
swords was a long one. Valuing virginity as the highest
moral station, Wanda refused all those who asked for her
hand, including a German prince who threatened to take
her and her kingdom by force if she would not submit. In
a revered example of self-sacrifice to her people, rather
than willfully give her kingdom over to a foreigner, Wanda
threw herself into the Wisa River - an act which later, dur-
ing the highly-patriotic periods of Polish annexation and
occupation, earned her the snarky nickname Wanda who
didnt want a German. In order to honour and remember
their great Queen, the nation built her an earthwork tomb
as impressive as her fathers near Mogia, the place of her
birth. Though she died a virgin, those brave enough to visit
Nowa Huta today can easily conquer Wandas mound.
The Legend of Wanda
As an avid cyclist it is distinctly possible Lenin visited what
is now Nowa Huta during his two year sojourn in Krakw. He
made a high-profile comeback in 1954 when the Steelworks
were named after him, and a year later a statue of him was
unveiled in Strzelecki Park. The figure was moved to the Lenin
Museum soon after, and thereafter mysteriously disappeared.
In 1970 the decision was taken to construct a new one on Al.
R, with Marian Konieczny winning the commission.
Strangely, the artist was at that time living in Lenins
former flat. Perhaps inspired by this freaky turn of fate
Konieczny took three years to create a cracker of a statue,
with the seven tonne Lenin seen striding purposefully
foreward down the centre of town with raincoat open and
furrowed brow. The people of Nowa Huta however were
left unimpressed, and the statue soon became the focus
of creative vandals. In one such case a rusty old bicycle,
battered pair of boots and a handwritten note were left
below the statue which read, Take these old boots, get
on the bike and get the heel out of Nowa Huta. In 1979
a bomb was planted at his feet, though the only casualty
proved to be a local man who died of shock after being
awoken by the blast. During the Martial Law era more
attempts to destroy him were thwarted, and he doggedly
survived an effort to pull him down, as well as an arson
attack. Finally, on December 10, 1989, Lenin was picked
up by a giant crane, boxed up and left to rot in a disused
fort. But his story doesnt end there. Years later a Swedish
philanthropist bought him for 100,000 Swedish crowns,
and had him shipped to a museum outside of Stockholm.
Today Nowa Hutas former pet Lenin has been given a
more youthful look by Swedish artists, and is now seen
touting a pierced ear and a handrolled ciggie. But we kid.
Memories of Lenin
near the historical centre of, has been inhabited since 5000 BC
without interruption, while archaeologists date the settlement
of Krakws Old Town much later in the 8th century. Together
with Kopiec Krakusa in Podgrze (K-5) - Krakws other prehis-
toric earthwork - Kopiec Wandy plays a role in one of Polands
greatest archeaological mysteries as the mounds date of
construction, builders and function all remain a subject of great
speculation. Leading theories suggest that both mounds were
erected sometime between the 6th and 10th centuries, by either
the Slavs or the Celts, as burial mounds or pagan cult sites;
perhaps most likely is that they were created as burial mounds
which later became cult sites. Though seemingly random within
the layout of modern Krakw, the location of the two mounds
can hardly be seen as an accident; when standing atop Kopiec
Wandy on the evening of the summer solstice, the sun can be
seen setting in a direct line behind Kopiec Krakusa.
Off a major road behind a handy tramstop (station Kopiec
Wandy), Wandas Mound is a conical earthwork rising 14m
with a winding path to the top, adorned by a small monu-
ment from the 19th century by Jan Matejko who lived in the
Krzesawice Manor nearby. The victim of general neglect
and geographical trespasses, Wandas Mound today lies
just beyond the fence of the fearsomely enormous Sendzimir
steel plant, of which glimpses of a large junkyard can be seen
through the trees. The view to the southwest is an improve-
ment, where Kopiec Krakusa and Podgrze can be seen in
the distance, though Wandas Mound unfortunately doesnt
offer sweeping views of the same caliber as Krakws other
mounds. The parkland surrounding the mound is in need of
the development which is apparently planned, not to men-
tion some proper modern archaeological studies; behind
the mound is a footpath leading to the right towards one
of Krakws hidden 19th century Austrian fortresses, but,
honestly, it just gives us the creeps. The Nowa Huta bar mleczny
Zygmunt Put,
pl.wikipedia.org
102
WIELICZKA
Getting to Wieliczka is a cinch with the E4 road east out
of Krakw (aptly named ul. Wieliczka within city limits)
leading straight to the Wieliczka exit in about 15 minutes.
Alternatively, frequent trains also run for about 4.70z,
but with renovation works going on at the Wieliczka train
station we recommend taking bus 301 from the Dworzec
Gwny Zachd (Galeria) stop outside Galeria Krakowska
near ul. Kurniki (D-1), or one of the Wieliczka-bound mini-
buses leaving from the parking area near there at the
corner of ul. Ogrodowa and ul. Pawia (D-1). Cost 3-4z,
journey time 15-20mins.
Getting There
Archiwum Kopalnia Wieliczka
Archiwum Kopalnia Wieliczka
Krakw is without a doubt one of the most popular tourist
cities in Eastern Europe, and as youve likely heard, one of
its top tourist attractions is a salt mine actually located in
Wieliczkaa small town about 15km to the southeast. An
astounding 1.2 million people visit Wieliczka Salt Mine each
year (thats one out of every seven or eight visitors to Krakw),
and its hardly a recent phenomenonpeople have been visit-
ing the salt mine for centuries with notable guests including
Nicolaus Copernicus, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Fryderyk
Chopin, Ignacy Panderewski, Pope John Paul II and former
US president Bill Clinton. In fact, the first official tourist trail
opened underground here way back in the mid-19th century.
But its not only tourists who come to visit. So deep is the
love of the locals for this place that in a recent survey (see
Local Likes & Dislikes), Cracovians voted Wieliczka Salt Mine
as their number one favourite thing about Krakw; again, not
bad for an attraction in another town 15 kilometres away. Not
only is Wieliczka a World Heritage Site, but it has the distinc-
tion of having been included (along with Krakws Old Town)
on UNESCOs first-ever World Heritage List back in 1978 (you
know, back when being a World Heritage site actually meant
something). Additional accolades aside, this unique industrial
heritage site has been a popular destination for centuries and
if youre visiting Krakw, you should also consider the short
side trip out to Wieliczka, which in addition to the famous salt
mine, also boasts a health resort, castle and museum.
History
About 20 million years ago, Krakw and the surrounding area
apparently lay at the bottom of a shallow, salty sea. Unfortunately
for those of us here today, the beaches are gone, but left behind
were some enormous salt deposits, shifted hundreds of metres
underground by tectonic movements. Though cheap and univer-
sally accessible today, salt was an extremely valuable commodity
centuries ago due to its ability to preserve food, especially meat.
An ancient sign of wealth, salt was used as currency before there
was money; Roman soldiers who ably performed their duties were
said to be worth their salt and the word salary comes from the
Latin word salarium used to describe their wages.
Salt extraction by boiling water from briny surface pools in
the regions surrounding Krakw can be traced back to the
middle Neolithic era (3500 BC), but it was the discovery of
underground rock salt in the 13th century that led to the rapid
development of the area. Underground extraction began in
nearby Bochnia in 1252 and was established on an industrial
scale in Wieliczka by the 1280s; soon both cities had earned
municipal rights and by the end of the 13th century the Cra-
cow Saltworks was established to manage both mines, with
its headquarters in the Wieliczka castle complex. One of the
first companies in Europe, the Cracow Saltworks brought vast
wealth to the Polish crown for the next 500 years until the first
partition of Poland in the 18th century. Its heyday was the 16th
and 17th centuries when it employed some 2,000 people,
production exceeded 30,000 tonnes and the Saltworks
accounted for one third of the revenue of the state treasury.
Under Austrian occupation (1772-1918) production was further
increased by mechanising the mining works with steam and later
electric machinery, and the first tourist route was opened. By the
20th century however, over-exploitation and neglect of necessary
protection works had begun to destabilise the mines condition
and the market value of salt no longer made it a viable enterprise.
In 1964 the extraction of rock salt was halted in Wieliczka and
in 1996 exploitation of the salt deposit was stopped altogether.
Despite the significant hazards of the day (flooding, cave-ins,
explosive gas), over the course of seven centuries 26 access
shafts and 180 fore-shafts connecting individual levels had
been drilled in Wieliczka. 2,350 chambers had been excavated
with over 240km of tunnels reaching a maximum depth of 327m
underground. Due to its unique saline microclimate and innovative
engineering, the mine has been well preserved and is today used
for historical, medicinal and tourist purposes.
104
105
WIELICZKA TYSKIE
Tyskie Brewery (Tyskie Browary Ksice) ul.
Mikoowska 5 (entrance from Katowicka 9), Tychy, tel.
(+48) 32 327 84 30, www.tyskiebrowarium.com.pl.
The Tyskie Browary Ksice, in the town of Tychy (German
Tichau) some 10km south of Katowice has been brewing
beer continuously for nearly 400 years. And because of
its Silesian location it has witnessed a number of historic
events over the years with its own history reflecting that of
the region. The originally German-owned brewery now pro-
duces the famous Tyskie Gronie, Polands best selling beer,
and Tyskie Browary Ksices (or just Tyskie) impressive
ensemble of buildings also includes a superb little museum
which is open to the public for tours. Taking about 2.5 hours
and led by a friendly and informative, English-speaking guide,
the Tyskie tour takes visitors through the entire brewing pro-
cess. Starting in the immaculately preserved Old Brewery, a
masterpiece of original decorative tiles and old copper vats
installed during WWI that have had modern brewing equip-
ment cleverly put inside them, the tour follows the brewing
process from start to finish and also offers a fascinating
insight into the history of the factory. Highlights include the
so-called Bachelors Quarters and the saucy tales that go
with them, a glimpse of the brewerys own railway station
and, across the road, a look inside the fabulously fragrant
bottling plant. Now producing over 8,000,000 hectolitres
of booze annually (or to put it another way, i f you put all that
beer into hal f litre bottles and laid them end to end youd
have a line of beer 80,000km long), the rise of the brewery
is recorded inside the superb Brewery Museum, complete
with interactive displays in English and housed inside a red
brick neo-Gothic church built in 1902. Tours must be booked
in advance, and yes, theres a tasting session at the end.
The tours are conducted in Polish, English, German, Spanish,
French, Italian, Czech, Russian and in the local Silesian dia-
lect (i f you ever wanted to hear what that might sound like).
The museum building also houses the local City Museum,
which is well worth having a look inside if youve got the time,
while the town itsel f is also worth exploring to properly cap
your trip to Tychy. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Last
entrance 2,5 hours before closing. Visitors must be over 18
and should call in advance to book a place on the tour. Be
advised that the brewery will soon undergo a renova-
tion, the details of which are unknown at present time
but info will be made available by phone and on their
website. Admission 12/6z.
What to See
The Saltworks Castle & Museum (Muzeum up
Krakowskich Wieliczka) ul. Zamkowa 8, Wieliczka,
tel. (+48) 12 278 58 49, www.muzeum.wieliczka.pl. From
the Daniowicza Shaft its a short, rather picturesque walk to the
Saltworks Castle, which served as the administrative seat of the
Cracow Saltworks Board. Originally built between the 13th and
16th centuries, the castle was demolished during World War
II before being beautifully reconstructed in 1984. The castle
courtyard features the foundations of the original oval-shaped
defensive walls and a 14th century tower that once housed a
prison and shooting gallery. The main building holds a museum
documenting the history of Wieliczka and the castle itself from
its early beginnings to modern times, local archaeological find-
ings, a model of 19th century Wieliczka, a collection of saltcellars
from all over the world, and other temporary exhibits. With little
to no information in English, the museum is hardly required visit-
ing but interesting enough to warrant the negligible entry fee if
you have time. QOpen 09:00 - 16:30. Closed Mon. Admission
4/3z. Guided tours 35z per person.
Wieliczka Salt Mine ul. Daniowicza 10, Wieliczka,
tel. (+48) 12 278 73 02, www.kopalnia.pl. A visit to the
salt mine begins at the Daniowicza Shaft; buy your ticket
from the adjacent ticket office and check the outside display
for the time of the next guided tour in your language. Your
ticket is valid for two parts of the salt mine: the Tourist
Route, which comprises the first 2 hours, and the Under-
ground Museum which takes an additional hour to visit.
In between theres an opportunity to take a break, use the
restrooms and even get something to eat (or escape if thats
your preference). However, be aware that the tour does
not end at the restaurant as many tour guides suggest it
does to foreign groups; in fact, they are obliged to escort you
to and through the Underground Museum (which you have
already paid for) as well.
Be prepared to do a lot of walking and bear in mind that
the mine is a constant 15˚C. If you want to endear
the guides, memorise the wonderful words Szcz Boe
(shtench boes-yuh); this essential, unpronounceable bit of
miners lingo effectively means God be with you and substi-
tutes for Dzie dobry (hello) when underground.
Your tour begins in earnest by descending 380 wooden stairs
(dont worry, you wont have to climb them) to the first level
64m underground. Of nine levels, the tour only takes you to
the first three (a max depth of 135m), with the 3.5kms cov-
ered during the 3 hour tour (including both parts) comprising
a mere 1% of this underground realm. While wandering the
timber-re-enforced tunnels youll gain insight from your guide
into the history of the site, the techniques used to extract the
salt and the lives of the men who worked there. Theres the
opportunity to not only operate a medieval winch used for
moving massive blocks of salt, but also to lick the walls (bring
some tequila). The tour visits numerous ancient chambers and
chapels in which almost everything around you is made from
rock salt, including the tiled floors, chandeliers, sculptures and
stringy stalactites that hang down. The highlight of the tour
is the magnificent 22,000m St. Kingas Chapel dating from
the 17th century. Known for its amazing acoustics, the chapel
features bas-relief wall carvings from the New Testament
done by miners that display an astonishing amount of depth
and realism. After passing a lake that holds more than 300g
of salt per litre, and a hall high enough to fly a hot-air balloon
in (you can take a lift to the balcony at the top for 10z), the
first part of the tour ends at the underground restaurant and
souvenir stands, at which point you should be instructed on
your two options: how to exit (option A) or where and when to
join the second part of the tour (option B). If this option B is
unmentioned or unclear, inform your guide that you also want
to see the Underground Museum and ask them how to do so.
At your leisure you should be able to find your way past the
restaurant and restrooms, beyond which youll find the queue
for the tiny, nerve-wracking, high-speed lift that shoots you
back up to the surface (option A), and separate area to the right
for those that want to continue on to the Underground Museum
(option B, which we heartily recommend). Your original guide
should admit you into the museum exhibition which comprises
an additional 16 chambers over 1.5kms packed full of artwork,
artefacts and mining equipment which your guide will elaborate
on. Perhaps the most fascinating and informative part of the
Wieliczka experience, the highlights of these beautiful exhibits
include two paintings by famous 19th century Polish artist Jan
Matejko, and an entire room full of sparkling salt crystals. Upon
completion your guide leads you back to the ancient lift which
takes you above ground back to where you started. QOpen
07:30 - 19:00. Admission 68/54z. Taking photos is an ad-
ditional 10z. A shorter handicap accessible route is available
but must be reserved in advance.
The Underground Rehabilitation & Treatment
Centre Park Kingi 1, bldg. I, Wieliczka, tel. (+48)
12 278 73 68, www.sanatorium.kopalnia.pl. With
the market value of table salt no longer being what it was
in medieval times, today the salt mine is most valuable for
its health benefits (and tourist dollars, of course). Given
its perfect isolation from external factors, the specific
microclimate of the subterranean saline chambers is
completely bacteria- and allergen-free and rich in healthy
microelements such as sodium chloride, magnesium
and chloride. Such an environment is brilliant for anyone
suffering from asthma, bronchitis, lung inflammation,
allergies or recurrent nose, sinus or throat conditions.
As such, the salt mine also operates as a health resort,
with the Underground Rehabilitation & Treatment Centre
offering a variety of single and multiple day health treat-
ments in the Jezioro Wessel (Wessel Lake) and Stajnia
Gr Wschodnich (Stable of East Mining Hills) saline
chambers located 135m underground. Here individuals
and groups can participate in a number of organised
breathing exercises and walks, as well as music therapy
(reservations required). The Centre also offers innova-
tive methods for the treatment of serious respiratory
ailments and a broad range of modern medical services
with professional medical staff and equipment. More
info can be found on their website. Q Prices vary by
season, treatment and length of stay. Check the website
for specific quotes.
Salting Your Wounds
The easiest way to get to Tychy from Krakw is by car
and the 85km journey will take about an hour and a half.
Alternatively you can get there from Krakw by train which
involves a change in Katowice and takes about two and
a half hours. The brewery is a short walk southeast from
Tychy train station.
Getting There
106
AUSCHWITZ
107
AUSCHWITZ
Visiting the Museum
Arriving at the Auschwitz Museum can be chaotic and con-
fusing thanks to large crowds, numerous ticket windows
with di fferent designations, and excessive signage that
contradicts itself. This can be avoided by going as part of an
organised group tour, organised by a local tour company. If
you are visiting independently however, or in a small group,
find the queue for the desk marked Individual Guests. During
peak tourist season the museum now makes it obligatory
to buy a ticket and become part of a guided tour, however
when the museum is less crowded it is possible to explore
the museum for free without a guide. If you find yoursel f
forced into a guided tour (which we recommend doing in
any case), you can take heart in knowing that it is excellent,
profound and professional, and afterwards youll find it hard
to imagine getting as much out of your visit had you explored
the grounds on your own. Tours in English depart most
frequently, and there are also regularly scheduled tours in
German, French, Italian, Polish and Spanish. Tour departure
times change frequently; exact times can be seen online
at auschwitz.org.pl and it would be wise to look them up
before visiting. The museum makes a big effort to provide
the tour in the native language of each guest, and tours in
languages other than those just mentioned can be easily
arranged if done in advance.
After purchasing your ticket and headphones, if there are
seats available your experience will begin with a harrowing
20 minute film (seeing the film is not guaranteed during peak
times) of narrated footage captured by the Soviet Army when
they arrived to liberate the camp in January 1945. The film
is not recommended for children under 14 (nor is the entire
museum for that matter). After the film, your tour of the camp
begins with a live guide speaking into a microphone which
you hear through your headphones.
Visiting Auschwitz is a full days excursion so prepare ac-
cordingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of Auschwitz I
takes around 2 hours, so make sure youve eaten breakfast.
After completing the tour of the first camp, there is only a
short break of about 20 minutes before the bus leaves for
Auschwitz-Birkenau II; in order to stay with the same tour
guide, you need to catch that bus, so it would be wise to
pack some food for the day (though there is some limited
food available at the museum). The tour of the second camp
is shorter, lasting 1-1.5 hours, after which you are free to
explore on your own and take some much needed time
for reflection. Buses depart back to Auschwitz I every 30
minutes, or you can walk or catch a cab to the train station
1.5km away. At Auschwitz I there are restrooms (have change
available), gift shops, a fast food bar and restaurant; there are
also restroom facilities at Auschwitz II-Birkenau. If exploring
Auschwitz without a guide, it is highly recommended that you
pick up the official guidebook (5z), whose map of the camp
is crucial to avoid missing any of the key sites; these can be
picked up at any of the numerous bookshops at both sites.
For centuri es the town of
Owicim was a quiet back-
water communi t y, l argel y
bypassed by world events.
That changed with WWII when
Owi ci m, known as Aus-
chwitz under German occupa-
tion, became the chosen site
of the largest death camp in
the Third Reich. Between 1.1
million and 1.5 million people
were exterminated here, etch-
ing the name of Auschwitz
forever into the history books;
countless films, documenta-
ries, books and survivor accounts have since burned it into
the collective consciousness.
Visitors to Poland, particularly to Krakw and Katowice, are
faced with asking themselves whether or not they will make
the effort to visit Auschwitz. It is a difficult question. There
are few who would say they actually want to visit Auschwitz,
though many are compelled to do so for their own reasons.
For those of us who dont feel so compelled, its easy to
give reasons for not going: not having enough time, already
knowing as much as we need or want to know about it, not
feeling personally connected enough to the site or the history
to need to visit, or being uncomfortable about the prospect
of visiting a site of such emotional resonance at the same
time as hundreds of other tourists. Having been there, we can
tell you that all of these explanations for avoiding Auschwitz
are perfectly reasonable until youve actually visited the site;
youll be hard-pressed to find anyone who has made the trip
and recommends against going.
The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most
horrific acts in human history with a level of tact, passion,
poignancy and professionalism that is so profound, it almost
makes as lasting an impression as the site itself. Without
being heavy-handed, the history of the site is presented
in all of its contexts and guests are perhaps spared from
full y surrendering to their emotions onl y by the sheer
relentlessness of the information. No matter how much
you think you know on the subject, the perspective gained
by visiting is incomparable. Whether or not you choose to
go to Auschwitz is up to you to decide. However it should be
understood that Auschwitz is not a site of Jewish concern,
Polish concern, German concern, gypsy concern, historical
concern... It is a site of human concern. As such, everyone
should visit.
Lying 75km west of Krakw, there are several ways to
get to Owicim. The easiest may be signing on for a
tour organised by a multitude of Krakw-based tour
companies (like Cracow City Tours or Cracow Tours) to
ensure everything goes smoothly; providing transporta-
tion, tickets and general guidance, the organisational
help of these outfits can eliminate significant confusion
upon arrival.
For those going the DIY route, frequent buses depart for
Owicim from the main bus station (E-1, ul. Bosacka
18). The journey takes 1.5 hours and costs 13z. Some
buses will stop at the Auschwitz Museum entrance, while
others drop off at the Owicim train station. Frequent,
almost hourly trains run between Krakw and Owicim,
with a journey time of 1.5 hours and a cost of about 14z;
note however that early trains to Owicim can be eerily
crowded, particularly on weekends.
The Owicim train station (ul. Powstacw lskich
22) lies strategically between Auschwitz I and Auschwitz
II-Birkenau, which are 3km apart. Local bus numbers 2,
3, 4, 5, 6, 9 and 10 stop at Auschwitz I; buy a 2.60z fare
from the nearest kiosk. Museum buses shuttle visitors
between the two camps every hour (from Auschwitz I at
:30 past; from Auschwitz II-Birkenau on the hour), or catch
a cab for 15z. Waiting minibus taxis run by Malarek Tour
can take you back to Krakw from either camp - a group
of eight would pay 25-35z/person.
Getting There
ence on January 20, 1942, when Hitler and his henchmen
rubber-stamped the wholesale extermination of European
Jews, it grew to become the biggest and most savage of all
the Nazi death factories, with up to 100,000 prisoners held
there in 1944.
The purpose-built train tracks leading directly into the camp
still remain. Here a grim selection process took place with
70% of those who arrived herded directly into gas chambers.
Those selected as fit for slave labour lived in squalid, un-
heated barracks where starvation, disease and exhaustion
accounted for countless lives. With the Soviets advancing,
the Nazis attempted to hide all traces of their crimes. Today
little remains, with all gas chambers having been dynamited
and living quarters levelled. Climb the tower of the main gate
for a full impression of the complexs size. Directly to the right
lie wooden barracks used as a quarantine area, while across
on the left hand side lie numerous brick barracks which were
home to the penal colony and also the womens camp. At the
far end of the camp lie the mangled remains of the crema-
toria, as well as a bleak monument unveiled in 1967. After a
comparably brief guided tour of the camp, visitors are left to
wander and reflect on their own before catching the return
bus to Auschwitz I. Q Open in March 08:00-16:00, April
08:00-17:00, May 08:00-18:00. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission free.
Auschwitz I (Pastwowe Muzeum Auschwitz -
Birkenau) ul. Winiw Owicimia 20, Owicim,
tel. (+48) 33 844 81 00, www.auschwitz.org.pl. Your
tour of Auschwitz I begins by passing beneath a replica of
the infamous Arbeit Macht Frei (Work Makes You Free) en-
trance gate. The original sign was actually made by inmates
of the camp on Nazi orders and is being restored after it was
stolen in December 2009 and found in pieces in northern
Poland a few days after the theft. From the entrance gate,
the prescribed tour route leads past the kitchens, where the
camp orchestra once played as prisoners marched to work,
before starting in earnest inside Block 4. Here an overview
of the creation and reality behind the worlds most notorious
concentration camp is given, with exhibits including original
architectural sketches for gas chambers, tins of Zyklon B
used for extermination and mugshots of inmates. Most
disturbing is over seven tonnes of human hair once destined
for German factories, which does much to demonstrate the
scale and depravity of the Nazi death machine.
Transported to Auschwitz in cattle trucks, newly arrived
prisoners were stripped of their personal property, some of
which is displayed in Block 5 including mountains of artificial
limbs, glasses, labelled suitcases, shaving kits and, most af-
fectingly, childrens shoes. Block 6 examines the daily life of
prisoners with collections of photographs, artists drawings
and tools used for hard labour while the next set of barracks
recreates the living conditions endured by prisoners: bare
rooms with sackcloth spread out on the floor, and rows of
communal latrines, one decorated with a poignant mural
depicting two playful kittens.
Block 11, otherwise known as The Death Block, is arguably
the most difficult part of the tour. Outside, the Wall of Death -
against which thousands of prisoners were shot by the SS - has
been turned into a memorial festooned with flowers; it was here
that Pope Benedict XVI prayed during his ground-breaking visit
in 2006. Within the terrifying, claustrophobic cellars of Block 11
the Nazis conducted their first experiments with poison gas in
1941 on Soviet prisoners. Here the cell of Father Maximilian
Kolbe, the Polish priest starved to death after offering his life to
save another inmate, is marked with a small memorial, and tiny
standing cells measuring 90 x 90 cm - where up to four prison-
ers were held for indefinite amounts of time - remain intact.
The remaining blocks are dedicated to the specific suffering
of individual nations, including a block dedicated in memory
of the Roma people who perished. The tour concludes with
the gruesome gas chamber and crematoria, whose two
furnaces were capable of burning 350 corpses daily. The
gallows used to hang camp commandant Rudolf Hoss in
1947 stands outside. Q Open in March 08:00-16:00, April
08:00-17:00, May 08:00-18:00. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. An individual ticket for a foreign language
guided tour of both camps costs 40/30z. Tours for groups
up to 10 people, 250z. For larger groups 300z.
The film costs 3.50/2.50z (included in the price of a group
tour). Headphones cost 5z per person (included in the price
of a group tour). Official guidebook 5z.
Auschwitz II - Birkenau (Pastwowe Muzeum
Auschwitz - Birkenau) Owicim, tel. (+48) 33 844
81 00, www.auschwitz.org.pl. Having completed the long
tour of Auschwitz I, some visitors decline the opportunity to
visit Auschwitz II - Birkenau, however its here that the impact
of Auschwitz can be fully felt through the sheer size, scope
and solitude of the second camp. Added in 1942 Birkenau
contained 300 barracks and buildings on a vast site that
covered 175 hectares. Soon after the Wannsee Confer-
1940: In April a Nazi commission decides to open a
concentration camp in Owicim, primarily because of
the excellent transport links it enjoys. Using existing
Polish army barracks as a foundation the construction
of Auschwitz I is completed on May 20th. On June 14th,
728 Polish political prisoners from Tarnw become the
first inmates of Auschwitz I, soon followed by 12,000
Soviet POWs.
1941: The first experiments with Zyklon B gas are con-
ducted on 600 Soviet POWs on September 3rd.
1942: Auschwitz II-Birkenau and Auschwitz III-Monowitz
are established.
1944: Jewish crematoria workers in Birkenau stage an
armed uprising on October 7, blowing up Crematorium
IV. Hundreds escape but are soon captured and put
to death.
1945: Liquidation of Birkenau begins in January with the
burning of documents and destruction of gas chambers,
crematoria and barracks. All prisoners who can walk,
approximately 58,000, are sent on arduous death
marches. About 15,000 die during this evacuation.
On January 27 the Red Army liberates Owicim, where
roughly 7,000 prisoners too weak to move have been
abandoned to their fate. In the months after the war
the Auschwitz barracks are used as an NKVD prison.
Post-war: The Auschwitz-Birkenau State Museum is
established. In 1979 UNESCO includes Auschwitz I and
II on its list of World Heritage sites. In the same year it is
visited by Pope John Paul II. His successor, German Pope
Benedict XVI visits in 2006. On December 18th, 2009
thieves steal the infamous Arbeit Macht Frei sign from
above the main entrance gate; the sign is replaced by a
replica, while the original is found in pieces in the woods
in northern PL. It is now the subject of renovation work.
A Brief History
108
TARNW
Eighty kilometres east of Krakw near the crossroads of
two ancient trade routes lies the charming and hospitable
city of Tarnw. Maopolskas second city by size, Tarnw is
absolutely dwarfed by Krakw but features many of the same
cultural and architectural charms without the crushing crowds,
inflated prices and occasional feelings of herd mentality that
unfortunately come along with a tourist market the size of
Krakws. On the contrary, Tarnw offers tourists the comforts
of a small town with a long history and the cultural intrigue and
activities of a much bigger city. In addition to a well-preserved
medieval Old Town - which includes a glorious cathedral, a
cute market square and Town Hall, and many pedestrian
avenues - in Tarnw visitors will discover several unique and
worthwhile museums, wooden churches, historic cemeteries,
castle ruins and a scenic overlook, as well as dozens of artistic
and historical monuments at every turn. Those with a special
interest in Jewish history should be extra motivated to visit
Tarnw due to its deep Jewish heritage, many traces of which
are still in evidence today in the citys evocative Jewish district
and large Jewish Cemetery. While the towns nightlife may not
have the sizzle of Krakw, there are still plenty of bars, cafes
and restaurants, the best of which we list here, where youll find
it easy to meet friendly local folks who are proud of their city
and eager to present a good impression to foreigners. All told
its enough to easily warrant spending at least one night, if not
more, as in addition to serving as a quiet, even romantic retreat
from Krakw, Tarnw also makes a superb base for exploring
the wealth of other nearby sites in the region, including the
Castle at Dbno, the folk art of Zalipie, and the salt mines of
Bochnia. Youll find more information on Tarnw and all the
surrounding area has to offer on our website, but make sure
you also pay a visit to the fine folks at the Tourist Information
Office when you arrive for more insights.
Getting There
Eighty kilometres east of Krakw at the crossroads of two
ancient trade routes between Germany and Ukraine as well as
Hungary and the Baltic Sea, Tarnw is easily reached by road.
A good network of train and bus services running in and out of
the city centre also link Tarnw with many major destinations
throughout Poland. The nearest airport is Krakw Balice.
By Bus
Buses from Krakw to Tarnw run about once an hour, with
the first leaving as early as 05:10 and the last bus back to
Krakw at 20:00 Tues-Thurs, or 21:45 Fri-Mon. The journey
takes about two hours and should cost around 15-17z.
Everything you need on arrival, with the exception of anyone
who speaks English, can be found inside the main bus station
building. Find toilets (2.50z) downstairs, a number of kiosks
selling snacks and mobile top-up vouchers and a snack bar
upstairs. There are no money changing facilities or ATMs,
so if you need cash youll need to go to the train station next
door. To get into town, find taxis parked outside, who will
take you to the Rynek for 10-12z. Bus N9 can be caught
on ul. Krakowska (buy a 2.40z ticket from one of the nearby
kiosks), and heads east along the same street before peeling
right and skirting around the southern edge of the Old Town.
A walk into the centre takes about 10 minutes.
Main Bus Station A-6, ul. Dworcowa 1, tel. (+48) 703
40 33 23. This bus station doesnt have anything in the
way of services or facilities, in fact you cant even buy a PKS
bus ticket out of town - the ticket offices only sell monthly
passes and local fares. This would go a long way towards
explaining why everyone just buys their tickets from the driver.
First mentioned in a document dated 1124, Tarnw
was granted city rights by King Wadysaw okietek in
1330 - an event celebrated by a fine monument of the
King on ul. Waowa before the stairs leading up to Plac
Katedralny. It was at this time that the medieval layout
the city retains to this day was created, with the market
square and Town Hall at its centre.
A privately owned city until 1787, Tarnws greatest
period of growth came under the illustrious, avant-garde
nobleman Jan Tarnowski during the 16th century when
the Old Town was largely reconstructed in the manner
that today earns it the accolade of being Polands Pearl
of the Renaissance. When the Tarnowski clan expired
without an heir in 1567, the city had already been incor-
porated into the Austrian-Hungarian Empire during the
era of Polish partitions. Tarnws citizens were quick to
join the Polish legions when WWI broke out and the region
saw many battles between the Russian and Austro-
Hungarian armies, resulting in a trail of WWI memorial
sites and cemeteries in the citys vicinity.
In October 1918 Tarnw gained notoriety when it became
the first Polish city to reclaim independence after 146
years of occupation, and again on August 28th, 1939
when German terrorists detonated an explosive in the
citys train station killing 20 people, injuring 32, and leading
some historians to claim that WWII officially started here in
Tarnw. The bombs would start falling from the sky six days
later and by September 7th the Nazis had captured the city.
The first Jews settled in Tarnw in the mid-15th century
and by 1939 their numbers had reached 25,000 - nearly
half the citys total population. On June 14th 1940, 728
Tarnw residents (mostly Poles, in fact) became the
first victims of Auschwitz; of 40,000 Jews crammed into
Tarnws ghetto, over 10,000 were executed and the
rest deported to the Belze death camp. Today Tarnws
Jewish heritage remains through several historical monu-
ments and sites in and around the former ghetto, though
no active Jewish community has survived.
Tarnw was a stronghold of resistance during Nazi oc-
cupation, before eventual liberation into the communist
regime on January 17, 1945. The city developed rapidly
in the postwar period as the monstrous soviet-era resi-
dential blocks in the north-east part of the city became
home to over one-third of its 100,000 population in the
mid-70s. The rise in the prices of meat in July 1980 in-
spired a series of strikes in Tarnw predating the Gdansk
shipyard strikes that would eventually lead to the com-
munist regimes collapse by over a month. Since Polands
ascension to the EU in 2004, Tarnw has enjoyed the
revitalisation of its Old Town and is gaining an increasing
reputation as a noteworthy tourist destination.
History in Brief
Diocesan Museum and Cathedral entrance
110
TARNW
111
TARNW
By Car
Tarnw is close to a number of major road routes in all direc-
tions and is worth considering as a place to stop off for a
few hours or even for the night if youre on a long journey.
Only 80km from Krakw, its an easy hours drive between
the two if you catch it at the right time, however traffic jams
are increasingly common and unpredictable, meaning the
journey could take anywhere between one and two hours.
The main road (the E4 highway) from Krakw leads right to
the market square and the most convenient place to park
is ul. Bernardyska, by making a right on ul. Targowa and
then your next left on Bernardyska. Parking must be paid
Mon-Fri 08:00-18:00, Sat 08:00-15:00 (Sun free), with some
complicated math dictating the price depending how long you
will be there (for example: 1.70z/1hr, 3.70z/2hrs, 6z/3hrs,
12z/24hrs). Buy a ticket from the kiosk, cross off the proper
time and from there the market square and tourist info office
just one block to your north.
By Train
Tarnw is served by some 40 or so trains every day from
Krakw, with a journey time of between 80 and 110 minutes
depending on whether you take a local or express train. Follow-
ing an extensive renovation, Tarnows train station reopened
in November 2010, exactly one hundred years after its original
opening in November 1910. While the original character of
the building was retained - including Edmund Cieszkiewiczs
paintings of the Tatra and Pieniny mountains which were
funded by the early train owners over a century ago - it has
been converted into a modern passenger centre with all the
services a modern station requires. A tourist info point is
open Mon-Fri 09:00-14:00 (however closing times may vary
depending on demand), and the two ticket offices stay open
24/7 with a short break between midnight and 1:30. Find also
a kiosk, shop, cafe, underground restaurant and the BWA
Gallery. Walking to the centre takes about 10mins while a taxi
from outside the station will cost about 10z.
Main Train Station A-6, Pl. Dworcowy 4, tel. (+48)
42 205 50 07, www.rozklad.pkp.pl.
Hotels
Bristol C- 4/5, ul. Krakowska 9, tel. (+48) 880 47
74 77, www.hotelbristol.com.pl. Enjoy a sumptuous
atmosphere of slightly flamboyant grandeur inside Tarnws
most exclusive hotel. Bristols immaculate rooms come with
minibars, cable television, spacious beds and a choice of en
suite facilities with either a shower or bath. Extras include
plenty of elegant chandeliers, Doric columns that dont actu-
ally support anything, a solarium, gym and an outrageously
pink honeymoon apartment featuring a large Jacuzzi. Q15
rooms (3 singles z, 4 doubles z, 2 triples z, 4 suites z, 2
apartments z). PTHA6FGKW hhhh
U Jana D-4, Rynek 14, tel. (+48) 14 626 05 64, www.
hotelujana.pl. An excellent choice, with 10 apartments
boasting views of the market square, all at a great value with
prices varying based on size and standard. Where they get
all these oil paintings is beyond comprehension, but theres
a barrage of them on the ground floor and youll find some
in your quarters as well. Suites are stylised quite tastefully
to represent the Renaissance history of the building, with
large beds in handsome frames, wooden floors and modern
facilities including satellite television and wifi. Unbeatable
location, and the downstairs restaurant is more reliable
than many in the area as well. Q12 rooms (12 apartments
z). THA6GKW
Restaurants
Soprano C-5, ul. Mocickiego 6, tel. (+48) 14 621 09
09, www.soprano-tarnow.pl. Just when wed given up on
having a nice meal out in Tarnw, Soprano saves our appe-
tite. This is bona fide fine dining, from the exceptional Italian
cuisine down to the gold tableclothes. Unfortunately the best
seats in the house are only seasonal - when the outdoor
garden full of plants and flowers is open, and you can watch
the chef at work with the brick, wood-fired pizza oven - but
that shouldnt stop you from making this one of your meals
out when in town. The creme of potato soup with smoked
salmon is absolutely delightful and comes with delicious fresh
olive bread, while our lamb shank with potato puree and red
currant sauce (40 z) was a worthy follow-up. Probably the
most money you can spend on a meal out in Tarnw, and still
a bargain. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun
11:00 - 22:00. (20-40z). PTAUGBSW
Tatrzaska C-4, ul. Krakowska 1, tel. (+48) 14 622
46 36, www.kudelski.pl. A very friendly and relaxed affair,
featuring English-speaking waiters in bow ties and a classy
menu. Among the extravagant-sounding dishes on offer are
the recommended beef tartar, Polish mountain cheese and
scampi in brandy sauce. Theres a fine dessert menu too,
all wrapped up in an elegant ambience of potted palms and
paintings of Old Tarnw. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (18-45z).
PTAUBXSW
Bars & Pubs
Basteja D-4, ul. Kapitulna 8, tel. (+48) 14 656 42 02,
www.pubbasteja.pl. Finding Basteja comes as a relief, as it
validates the hope that there must be at least one cool cafe/
bar hidden somewhere in this city. Hidden indeed it is - in a
passageway between ul. Kapitulna and ul. Waowa - and it
owes a lot to its location which comprises part of Tarnws
ancient city walls. On one side youll find an ethereal red
interior with tasteful lighting and black and white photography
of Old Tarnw on the walls, while across the passage you
cant miss the magnificent summer beer garden inside the
ruins of the bastion it takes its name from. Either way, this is
one of the most laidback locales around and youre likely to
leave with it near the top of your list of trip highlights. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. GBW
Leprikon Irish Pub D-4, ul. Rynek 16, tel. (+48) 696
18 75 22. Fetching a great location on the market square,
this relatively new Irish pub is a welcome addition to Tarnw
- a city suffering from a severe lack of decent watering holes.
Leprikon looks the part with lots of lucky green and dark wood
fittings, the obligatory map of Ireland, 2 TVs beaming live
sports, Guinness on draft and a full Irish breakfast on offer
(14z). In addition to breakfast, this is one of a scarce number
of places on the market square that will feed you a proper
meal, from local specialties to burgers and other pub grub. As
the citys first Irish establishment, it also symbolises a status
shift for the city from one that everyone wants to leave, to
one that foreign punters will now consider invading on holiday.
Congrats, Tarnw. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. AGBW
Churches
Cathedral Pl. Katedralny, tel. (+48) 14 621 58 85,
www.katedra.tarnow.opoka.org.pl. Dating from the 14th
century with major additions and rebuilds in the 15th and 19th
centuries, the Neo-Gothic Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin
Mary, just northwest of the Rynek and one of the oldest brick
buildings in the city, must rate as one of the most impres-
sive parish churches in Poland. Of note is the 16th-century
portal, the impressive several-metre-long monuments to the
Tarnowski and Ostrogski families, a number of extraordinary
paintings and the impressive, 72-metre tower, a handy point of
reference when getting lost in one of Tarnws many rambling
back streets. Some nice recent additions are also evident,
including the fabulously ornate sculpted metal doors on the
southern side of the building. QOpen 06:00 - 18:30, Sun
06:00 - 20:30. No visiting during mass please.
Museums
Diocesan Museum (Muzeum Diecezjalne) D-4, Pl.
Katedralny 6, tel. (+48) 14 621 99 93, www.muzeum.
diecezja.tarnow.pl. To paraphrase the late John Paul II, the
Church needs art to better understand what lies inside the soul
of man, and Tarnws superb Diocesan Museum, established
in 1888, does a very good job at doing just that. An astonish-
ing collection of religious art from the 15th century onwards,
housed inside an equally wonderful ensemble of 16th-century
houses, the museums most precious artefact is the original
alter from St. Leonards church in nearby Lipnica Murowana,
moved here for preservation reasons at the insistence of
UNESCO. Other highlights include some truly breathtaking
Gothic triptychs and sculptures from Maopolska, a collection
of church fabrics from the Middle Ages and a few pieces of
19th-century religious folk art. A marvellous and highly recom-
mended experience. Q Open 10:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:00,
Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 13:00-14:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Ethnographic Museum
(Muzeum Etnograficzne)
C- 5, ul . Krakowska 10,
tel. (+48) 14 622 06 25,
www.muzeum.tarnow.pl.
As well as highlighting local
ethnographic traditions, this
better than average collection
includes a large celebration of
Roma (Gypsy) culture, which is
allegedly the only such collec-
tion in Europe. A truly fascinat-
ing, if slightly dated, exhibition
tracing Roma culture in Poland
from its beginnings in the 15th
century to their fate at the hands of the Nazis and beyond,
the three rooms that make up the exhibition include some
excellent maps, models, costumes and photographs, all of
which are best seen with the aid of a small and very good
booklet, The Gypsies, written by the museums curator Adam
Bartosz and available in English for just 3z. There are still
about 350 Roma living in Tarnw, and their culture is still very
much alive. In the museums back garden youll find several
traditionally painted gypsy caravans. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00,
Wed, Fri 09:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 5/3z. Sun free.
Tarnw District Museum (Gmach Gwny) D-4,
Rynek 20-21, tel. (+48) 14 621 21 49, www.muzeum.
tarnow.pl. This Renaissance building dates back to 1565
and includes beautiful arcades and an extensive wine cellar.
In 1780 it was adapted to be the headquarters of Austrian
General dAltona who took the city in 1772. From the 19th
century the building was in Jewish possession until after
the war when it received a major renovation and has since
been owned by the city. Now the headquarters of the Tarnw
District Museum, the building hosts temporary regional ex-
hibits - currently a cycle displaying the work of local artisits
which changes each month. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Wed, Fri
09:00 - 15:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sat. Admis-
sion 4/2z, Sun free.
Retaining its original medieval layout of latticed streets
and central market square (Rynek) reached by stairways
from a lower, surrounding loop (formerly the city walls
and defensive towers), Tarnws exemplary Old Town
began life in the 14th century, although most of what
now stands dates from later on. Its crowning glory is the
Rynek, a wide-open plaza surrounded on all four sizes
by fine Renaissance merchant houses dating from the
16th to the 18th century.
At the centre of the Rynek stands the Town Hall, a
lovely 15th-century building originally constructed in
the Gothic style and remodelled at the end of the 16th
century in a classic Renaissance manner, topped off with
an idiosyncratic 30m tower from which a bugler plays
Tarnws hejna - a short traditional melody - every day
at 12:00. Small compared to its vast Cracovian cousin,
the Old Town is still interesting enough to warrant a good
investigation, and includes a fairly well preserved Jew-
ish quarter to the east, one remaining defensive tower
and a pleasant pedestrian street, hugging its northern
edge and featuring several interesting buildings as well
as a number of monuments. In the spring and summer
the Rynek comes to life with tables and chairs from the
multitude of cafes and bars (and surprisingly few restau-
rants) lining it and has a warm and welcoming appeal.
Rynek & The Old Town
Tourist Information Centre D-4, Rynek 7, tel.
(+48) 14 688 90 90, www.tarnow.travel. One of
the most helpful offices in all of PL, make this your first
port of call on arrival. Here youll find a wide range of
free information on Tarnw and the surrounding region,
free internet (browse away), a few souvenirs, bicycle
rental and theres even accommodati on availabl e
upstairs. If youre interested in a gadget-led tour, there
are nine different mp3 audio tours of the main sights for
hire, in addition to a GPS guide called Navigo City Tour.
The friendly, knowledgeable and enthusiastic English-
speaking staff, can give you a better idea of what that
is, plus whatever information or advice you cant find in
this guide, so dont be shy. Also at the train station (A-6,
open Mon-Fri 09:00-14:00, though closing time depends
on visitor traffic). Q Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 -
17:00. Closed Sun. From May open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 17:00.
Tourist Information
112
LOCAL FOOTBALL
113
LOCAL FOOTBALL
Poland is a country with a rich football heritage, fanatical sup-
porters and a major European tournament to look forward to
hosting. However there are major problems with corruption,
incompetent administration of the game and a pretty serious
hooligan issue. So while watching a game here is not discour-
aged, do exercise caution when attending a game particularly
the local derby between Krakows two major clubs.
Poland as a national side has finished 3rd in 2 World Cups and
the older fans among you will remember the likes of Grzegorz
Lato (Golden Boot winner at the West German World Cup
of 1974), Kazimierz Deyna and Zbigniew Boniek (one half
of the great Juventus midfield pairing with Michel Platini).
The national side can boast some talented players such as
Arsenals Wojciech Szczesny and Borrusia Dortmunds Jakub
Blaczykowski but the depth of the squad is poor and the trainer,
Franciszek Smuda has tried to remedy this by recruiting foreign
players with Polish ancestry. The lack of competitive matches
and this wholesale rebuilding of the team has Poles thankful
that they qualify for Euro 2012 by way of being hosts but fearful
that this will result in a series of high profile thrashings at the
hands of some of the continents bigger sides.
At club level there are some positive signs for the future. With
the national side typically recruiting players plying their trade
in foreign leagues, Polish clubs are even worse off and this
is reflected in the fact that their last representatives in the
group stage of the Champions League were Widzew d
in 1996. The 2011/12 season did see champions Wisa
Krakw reach the last CL qualifying round before dropping
into the Europa League where they were joined by Legia
Warsaw and this improvement along with a number of new
A massive and inexplicably undeveloped tract of greenery
directly west of the Old Town (G-3), the Bonia is a huge
triangular open space measuring nearly 50 hectares. Tech-
nically a park, although lacking any trees or other defining
characteristics, the Polish name Bonie denotes a meadow
something of an amiable linguistic redressing of the Bonias
true and unchanged historical function: its a cow pasture. The
areas ability to survive to modern times as the largest city
centre open space in Europe can be accredited to a perfect
storm of boggy undesirability, a centuries-long ownership
dispute, and finally a medieval legislative wrinkle. Used by
locals to graze cattle even midway into the 20th century,
when the non-defunct Cracovia Hotel was built next to it
in 1965 the city moved to permanently ban unfashionable
bovines from the Bonia, only to find themselves obstructed
by an apparently still legally binding 14th century decree by
Queen Jadwiga which they would have to sort out with War-
saw. Warsaw not being the most cooperative or expedient
bureaucratic partner in those times, city council decided to
stick with the status quo, making it perfectly acceptable for
you to air old Bessie on the Bonia to this day. Though a great
idea for a city-wide one day annual event (called Bovines on
the Bonia, tell the mayor to get in touch with my agent for
more details), these days youll find the green triangle has
primarily become the favourite leisure space of dogs and their
frisbee chasing, ball playing owners, while the perimetre is a
popular track for cycling, running and rollerblading. Protected
as a National Heritage Site since 2000, the Bonia is ideal
for large-scale outdoor events, hosting numerous concerts,
rallies and most notably historic open air masses by the
Pope during his visits to Krakw.
Football fans will be the next to graze on this green pasture
when in June the Bonia becomes the site of Krakws
Fan Zone during the Euro 2012 football tournament.
Despite provoking unfounded and obnoxious protest from
football-hating environmentalists (theyll ruin the grass!),
the Bonia is the perfect place to become the centre of
Cracovian attention during the football tourney thanks to
its accommodating spaciousness and location directly
between the citys two main football stadiums. Though
Krakw will not be hosting any official matches during Euro
2012 (those honours went to Warsaw, Wrocaw, Pozna,
Gdask and some villages in Ukraine), the city will be host-
ing three of the premier European national sides. The Wisa
stadium on the north side of the Bonia will serve as the
practice facilities for the Dutch squad, while the Italians
will be working out in newly renovated Cracovia stadium
on the south side; meanwhile the English national team
will be concocting their excuses in Nowa Huta.
As such Krakw is unofficially shaping up to be the fifth
Polish host city of the tournament, with thousands of
international football fans expected to invade in June.
Organisers originally plotted the Fan Zone to accom-
modate 15,000 before doubling that number to 30,000
and now theres talk of that number climbing even higher.
Though nothing is yet confirmed, initial plans for the Fan
Zone are generating plenty of excitement. According to
designs live matches will be projected on a 100 x 100m
television screen, while the transfixed thousands will be
flanked by services on both sides of the Bonia, including
restaurants and beer gardens, a VIP section, souvenir
stands, a mini football pitch and childrens playground,
and apparently even a Womens Zone with a spa and
cosmetic salon. Toilets, first aid points and information
booths will also be in place, and you can bet that come
June herd mentality will have us on the pasture too.
Euro 2012 on the Bonia
Cracovia H- 3, ul. Kauy 1, tel.
(+48) 12 427 35 62, www.cracovia.
pl. While most tickets cost as little as
10-37z and there is a big family sector
where women and children under 12
only pay 1z we recommend you head for
blocks E, F, G, H where you can get a ticket for 20-25z.
Cracovia take security very seriously, operating 280
cameras, and to buy a ticket you will need to have a club
ID. Get that by visiting the ticket office with your passport
and they will then create an ID for you.
Another option is to head to Emocja - the restaurant
and sports bar l ocated insi de the stadium. Passion-
ate, but ci vilised, entry is free during matches and
standing room gi ves you a vi ew of the entire pi tch.
Or better yet, reserve a tabl e in the VI P section for
50z, whi ch then goes towards your food and drink.
In terms of being a sports spectator, i t doesn t get
better than this.
Fixtures during the shelf life of this guide are below but
subject to change for television. Date ranges reflect un-
certainty over which day the match will be played; check
the schedule online for the latest info.
April 4th, 18:00 - Podbeskidzie Bielsko-Biaa
April 20-23 - Widzew dz
May 3rd, 18:00 - Ruch Chorzw
QTicket office open from Monday during the week pre-
ceding matches 10:00 - 18:00. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00
or until the match begins.
Cracovia
Wisa Krakow G-2, ul. Reymonta
22, tel. (+48) 12 623 95 95, www.
wisla.krakow.pl. Foreign fans are rec-
ommended to head for the pricey seats
in Sector E of the stand on ul. Reymonta
where you can expect to pay 40-60z.
Ti ckets and compul sory Fan Cards
(Karta Kibica) are available from the Fan
Zone (Strefa Kibica) next to stand D (open 11:00-20:00;
Sat, Sun 10:00-16:00). Note that you will need to have
your passport or driving licence with you to obtain a Fan
Card. Matches during the lifetime of this guide are below,
though subject to change because of TV schedules. Date
ranges reflect uncertainty over which day the match will
be played; check their website for the latest info.
April 7th: Jagiellonia Biaystok
April 14th: KS d
April 21st: Podbeskidzie Bielsko Biaa
April 27-30: Cracovia
May 3rd: Grnik Zabrze
May 6th, 17:00: lsk Wrocaw
Wisa Krakow
Maks Michalczak/www.wisla.krakow.pl
stadia openings has given the Polish supporters something
to be positive about. That said the standard of the Polish
league (Ekstraklasa) is poor, the smell of corruption contin-
ues to hang over the game and attendances are very low in
comparison to western European leagues.
However in Krakw you are able to see 2 of the countrys big-
gest clubs and experience a match day quite unlike anything
you might be used to. Say it quietly but Wisa, formed in 1906,
are Krakows biggest club with twelve league titles, 8 of them
having come since 1999, but European glory has proved elusive.
Wisa play their matches at ul. Reymonta 22 inside a completely
rebuilt 34,000-seater stadium that the Dutch national team
will use as its training facilities for the Euro 2012 tournament.
Cracovia, also founded over 100 years have the distinction
of being Polands longest surviving professional outfit, as
well as the late Popes team of choice. Founded in 1906 the
stripes won four league titles during the interwar period, and
followed it up by scoring another success in 1948. Since
then the trophy cleaner has had nothing to do but clear away
cobwebs. Having moved into a newly built stadium that will be
used by the Italian national side during Euro 2012, Cracovia
tickets are cheaper although security is tighter.
As you can probably imagine, these two local rivals are in no
way fond of each other, with the Krakw Derby carrying the
nickname The Holy War. The animosity between the two
was stoked in early 2011 when a well-known Cracovia fan
was beaten to death in what appeared to be an organised
attack by fans of Wisa. Supporters groups have claimed
that the incident had nothing to do with football or the bulk
of genuine supporters and more to do with hooligans, drugs
and turf wars.
A sensory feast for football fans
The only sports bar and restaurant in Krakow with a view of the stadium
Emocja Restauracja & Lunch Bar
ul. Jzefa Kauy 1, 30-111 Krakw
tel. +48 12 421 00 71
www.restauracjaemocja.pl
Open 11:00 - 22:00
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LEISURE
farthing or modern Dutch Stepper bikes, even bikes for kids:
10z/hr, 40z for 5 hours, or 50z for the whole day. Or go
for the tandem for double the price. 100z and ID deposit
required. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00.
Rent-A-Bike , tel. (+48) 792 48 90 67, www.rent-a-
bike.pl. Call the number and have a stylish new city bicycle
delivered to your location; let them know where you are when
youre finished and theyll pick it up. Locks, lights, fenders
included, helmets and child chair available. You can also pick
up or drop off a bike at Momotown (D-6, ul. Miodowa 28).
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Up to 3 hours, 20z. Each additional
hour, 5z. 24 hour rental, 50z.
Boat Rental & River Cruises
Aqua Fun B- 6, Bulwar Czerwieski Marina (near
Grunwaldzki Bridge), tel. (+48) 604 29 90 00, www.
rejsy.krakow.pl. Regular river cruises between Bielany-
Zwierzyniec and Kazimierz abroad a stylish gondola (30mins,
15/12z; 1hr, 25/20z) or proper boat with refreshments and
an upper deck (1hr, 15/12z). Both gondola and boat rides
run from 10:00 to 20:00 every half hour, however rides dont
leave until a sufficient number of people are on-board. All
are speaker-equipped with an audio tour and can be rented
privately. Four hour journeys to Tyniec and back, night cruises,
and private trips with live folk or klezmer music can also be
arranged in advance. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Water Equipment H-3, SKS Nadwilaska Marina
near ul. Kociuszki 16, tel. (+48) 606 22 55 55, www.
zeglugawkrakowie.pl. Watersports of all persuasions
including canoe rental (20z/hr), 4-person motorboats, 4-per-
son pedalo (30z/hr) and a 12-person catamaran. Kayaking
tours also organized. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Bowling & Billiards
Cue Bar K-2, ul. Mogilska 35, tel. (+48) 12 417 22 10,
www.cuebar.pl. Krakws first proper billiards bar, Cue Bar takes
it seriously. Judging by the prices, maybe a little too seriously.
Eight tables in total: three professional snooker tables (18z/hr),
two eight-foot pool tables and three nine-foot pool tables in the
attic (15-17z/hr). And beer, of course. Call if youre interested in
tournaments or private lessons. QOpen 13:00 - 22:30.
Fantasy Park L-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12 290 95
15, www.fantasypark.pl. The citys best bowling lanes, an
arcade, billiards and rumpus room for the kids. Take trams 1,
14 or 22, getting off at Krakw Plaza. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00, Sun 11:00 - 02:00.
Hotel Wilga I-5, ul. Przedwionie 16, tel. (+48) 12
294 44 29, www.hotel.wilga.krakow.pl. The only hotel
in Krakw with a bowling alley. Located in Podgrze, Wilga
offers two lanes, billiards, foosball and a bar, all ideal for
private parties. Reserve in advance to ensure availability.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Bowling 30-60z/hr. Billiards 10z.
Golf
Krakow Valley Golf & Country Club Pacztowice
328, tel. (+48) 12 258 60 00, www.golf.krakow.pl.
With a club house, driving, chipping and putting ranges, this
magnificent 160ha 18 hole golf course 25km west of Krakw,
is one of the largest and best in Central Europe. Reserve a
tee-time on weekends when the fairway is busy. To reach
them youll either need a car or take a train from Krakw to
Krzeszowice ( journey takes 20 minutes) and then a private
bus to Pacztowice (7 minutes). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
While drinking in cafes and beer gardens is probably the
number one local leisure activity, our Leisure section is geared
more for those looking outdoor activities on a beautiful day,
or how to stay active on an ugly one. Generally, Cracovians
are spoiled with recreation opportunities, if only for the fact
that the Old Town is a joy to stroll around when the sun is out
and features several unique green spaces, particularly the
Planty and Bonia (see Outdoor Attractions), the latter of
which is home to an ice rink in winter. Other highlights include
Las Wolski (Wolski Forest), which is home to Kociuszko and
Pisudski Mounds, as well as the Zoo, and provides plenty
of hiking opportunities. Cracovians also love getting out of
town, whether it be short day-outings to Tyniec (see Further
Afield) and Ojcw (both of which you can expect to be packed
on sunny weekends), or mountains excursions to the Beskidy
and Tatra ranges to the south. Zakopane is an especially
popular destination for skiing in winter and hiking in the sum-
mer. Use the listings below to keep active in every season.
Adrenaline Sports
Krakowski Park Linowy ul. Widakowa (Pychowice),
tel. (+48) 514 25 66 47, www.krakowskiparklinowy.
pl. Give yourself a new high navigating the maze of rope
bridges, nets and ziplines of this exciting ropes park just off
the Wisa bike trail midway between Wawel and Tyniec Abbey
( just beyond F-5 on the IYP map). 200 metres in total, with a
height ranging from 5-9m, the course is of varying difficulty
but a thrilling and safe challenge for everyone thanks to
helmets and harnesses. Walking the entire course takes
between 45 minutes and an hour. They also offer a shorter
and easier route for children over 1.4m in height. For more
info visit their website which has an English option. Q Open
from May. Hours and prices listed here are from last
season, please check their website for the latest info.
Open Sat, Sun only, 10:00-18:00. Closed from November.
30z for adults. 25z for children under 16. 50z for personal
accompaniment by an instructor. 15z for the childrens route.
Laser Arena I- 4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28 (Hotel
Forum), tel. (+48) 604 42 31 74, www.laserarena.
pl. Finally the Hotel Forum (that unsightly behemoth on the
riverfront across from Skaka) has been put to good use.
Run amock in this unfinished and abandoned communist
shipwreck dodging laser beams and zapping adversaries.
Laser Arena uses a computer system to register hits from
the virtual bullets in a safe, simulated gunfight within this
highly unique setting. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00
- 22:00. 15mins - 20z/person; 30mins - 30z; 1hr - 50z. Stu-
dents 15% off. Happy hour discounts, weekdays 16:00-17:00.
Safe War Margaretek 1 (Prdnik Biay), tel. (+48) 505
16 55 63, www.paintball-krakow.pl. Paintball for groups
of at least 8 people. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. 55z per person
(8 person minimum). Prices negotiable for groups of more
than 20. 100 additional pellets 20z.
Bike Rental
Cruising Krakw C-2, ul. Basztowa 17, tel. (+48) 514
55 60 17, www.cruisingkrakow.com. 10-30z for 3 hours;
each additional hour 5-8z - prices depend of the type of bike
rented. Bike tours also arranged daily at 12:00 departing
from the Mickiewicz monument on the market square; no
reservation necessary. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.
Eccentric Bike Rental C-3, ul. Grodzka 2, tel. (+48)
12 430 20 34, www.krakowbiketour.com. The biggest
bike rental in Krakw offers you a range of options, includ-
ing road bikes and beach cruisers, even olde school penny
Royal Krakw Golf & Country Club Ochmanw
124, Pode, tel. (+48) 12 281 91 70, www.krakow-
golf.pl. A nine hole gol fcourse located close to the Royal
Jagi el l onian Hunti ng Grounds (Puszcza Ni epoomi cka)
18km east of Krakw. A clubhouse and restaurant over-
look the double green 9/18 and the course is popular
wi th both beginners and experienced gol fers. Includes
indoor driving ranges, and an indoor simulator when the
outdoor course is not open. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00 and
by prior arrangement.
Indoor Attractions
Krakw Aquarium D-5, ul. w. Sebastiana 9, tel.
(+48) 12 429 10 49, www.aquarium-krakow.com. Oc-
cupying the lower levels of the Natural History Museum, this
2000 square metre marvel features not just fish but dozens
of lizards, monkeys, turtles, tropical frogs,venomous snakes
and most recently a new area with spiders and insects.
Though weve now lost hope of ever witnessing the comple-
tion of the bad-ass 90,000 litre shark tank that should be
occupying the front room, this is still an exciting outing for
kids complete with touch-screen info stations, touch tanks
and educational programs. Go fish. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00,
Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Last entrance 1 hour
before closing. Admission for children ages 4 to 16 is 13.95z,
adults 19.95z, family ticket (2 parents, 2 kids) 59z. Children
3 and under enter for free.
Outdoor Attractions
AeroPlatform (Balon Widokowy) B-7, Bulwar
Woyski, tel. (+48) 511 80 22 02, www.hiflyer.pl. If
you find yourself across from Wawel on the opposite banks
of the Vistula River and fancy a slightly more adrenaline-
pumping way to a panoramic view, take a scenic ride in
this massive balloon. Rising to a height of up to 150 me-
ters, youll have about fifteen minutes to snap photos and
overcome your acrophobia. Possibly in a move to appease
some of the critics who consider it an eyesore, the balloon
has I love Poland and I love Krakow written on opposite
sides of it in enormous Polish writing. Come well before
dusk, bring your student card if youve got one and youll be
hard-pressed to find a better view from above in Krakow.
QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Note that the balloon may not be
able to fly in bad weather. Call in advance if there is any
doubt. 36/18z per flight, students with proper ID (foreign
student cards accepted) 25z, family ticket 80z. Note that
prices may rise in May.
Botanical Garden J-2, ul. Kopernika 27, tel. (+48)
12 663 36 35, www.ogrod.uj.edu.pl. Covering almost
10 hectares, Polands oldest botanical gardens date from
1783 and offer a decidedly relaxing daytime escape from
the city. Extensive flora-filled paths wind between fountains,
herb and rose gardens, lillypadded ponds, and a 250-year-old
oak tree - the last remnant of primeval forests which once
covered the entire region. A humid greenhouse (open 10:00-
18:00; closed Fri) hides all manner of exotic flora, including
a macabre collection of carnivorous plants, while a series of
outdoor classical music concerts takes place in the warmer
months. A great place for romantic rendezvous or finding
some peace and quiet. Q Open from April 15, 09:00 - 19:00.
Admission 6/3z. 12z family ticket available on weekends.
Krakw Beach (Plaa Krakw) I- 4, ul. Ludwin-
owska 2, tel. (+48) 530 95 03 03, www.plazakrakow.
com.pl. Featuring 10,000 metres of sand spread out
across a stretch of the riverbank on the Dbniki side be-
tween Grunwaldzki Bridge (B-7) and the building formerly
known as the Forum Hotel (I-4), Krakow Plaa (beach) has
become party central when the sun is out. Terri fic views
of Wawel Castl e form the backdrop to a mul ti -faceted
venue which offers said beach where you can play beach
football and volleyball, a 25 by 8 metre swimming pool
hollowed into the hull of a boat docked just offshore and
a large childrens playground. Throughout the day pick
up a cocktail or iced coffee from the attached open-air
cafe-bar or a meal at the surprisingly good restaurant,
Plaa Krakw (see Restaurants). After the sun goes down,
Plaa Krakw turns into a club, strewn with low white so-
fas, with various DJ parties playing music from house to
70s, while Thursday nights are reserved for outdoor film
screenings. The easiest way to get there is gather eight
people together and take the free ferry from the foot of
Wawel. Li fes a beach. Q Swimming pool 10-15z/per hour.
Volleyball courts should be booked in advance between
10:00 and 20:00. After 19:00 volleyball courts are free.
Playground is free of charge.
Kryspinw Liszki, tel. (+48) 12 292 75 53, www.
kryspi now.com.pl. Krakowi ans favouri te summer
sun desti nati on i s thi s ar ti fi ci al beach at Kr yspi nw
Lagoon. As such i t can be i ncredi bl y crowded on sunny
weekends. 12 km away and wel l -connected to Krakw,
Kryspi nw features l i feguarded swi mmi ng areas, water
spor ts rental equi pment, water sl i des, pl aygrounds, a
ropes course and beach vol l eybal l . The Hawana Bar
al so makes i t a popul ar par ty desti nati on, organi s-
i ng numerous events throughout the season. To get
there take buses 209 or 269 from the Sal wator tram
roundabout to the Kr yspi nw Zal ew stop. QOpen
08: 00 - 22: 00. Passes 12/6z, fami l y ti ckets 20z.
Car parki ng 10z.
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LEISURE
117
SHOPPING
Vanilla SPA H- 4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski
& SPA), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 04, www.vanillaspa.
pl. This luxurious spa in the centre of the new five star
Niebieski hotel is a palace of pampering for your mind
and body thanks to a variety of holistic treatments in
relaxi ng envi rons. Spoil your ski n through a seri es of
peels and masks using top of line cosmetics and munch
on organic bio snacks courtesy of the Vanilla Sky res-
taurant between trips to the sauna, steam bath, and
massage tables. Walk in for a free consultation to have
the on-hand hands-on experts create your own personal
care programme. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.
Swimming & Diving
Those l ooking to go swimming in Krakw will be best
served by doing so in a hotel (of whi ch the pool in Hotel
Stary - C-2, ul. Szczepaska 5 - is among the best in the
Ol d Town and open to walk-ins). This is due to the fact
that most swimming pools in Krakw are regularl y used
by schools and fi tness clubs making their opening hours
to the rest of the public almost impossible to di vul ge. For
a sure bet head to Krakws Water Park (Park Wodny,
see For Ki ds). Note that in the warm months, the most
popul ar outdoor swi mmi ng l ocati ons for l ocal s are
Kryspinw Lagoon and the new Krakw Beach (see
Outdoor Attractions).
Nurkomania G-5, ul. Kobierzyska 93, tel. (+48)
501 62 78 46, www.nurkomania.pl. Go scuba di ving
in the crystal cl ear and scaril y deep waters of Zakrzwek
quarry (see Outdoor Attractions). Advanced and begin-
ner di vi ng courses are avai l abl e for those who can
somehow get around the fact that the instructors don t
speak English. Q Open by prior agreement. Pri ces vary
dependi ng on course and arrangement. See websi te
for more details.
Park Wodny (Water Park) L- 1, ul . Dobrego
Pasterza 126, tel. (+48) 12 616 31 90, www.
parkwodny.pl. The bi ggest i ndoor pool compl ex i n
Poland i ncl udes 800 metres of water sli des for all ages,
dragon and pirate play areas, massage fountains, climb-
i ng wal l s, wave machi nes, swi ngs and other i n-water
acti vi tes, this i ncredi bl e aquati c playground is the thi ng
your ki d wi l l remember most about Krakw. You won t
have such a bad ti me yoursel f wi th access to saunas,
j acuzzi s, fi tness and wel l ness centres and a pool -si de
cafe from whi ch you can watch your l i ttl e terrors try to
dunk each other. Pri ces to the pool vary but are i n the
range of 13-22z for one hour, and 35-49z for day ac-
cess. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
Alcohol
Nothing says, Ive been to Poland like a suitcase of vodka (and
maybe a dodgy moustache). The Poles have been distilling and
draining vodka since the early Middle Ages, and Poland can
make a legitimate claim as the spirits primordial homeland. As
such, you should put it at the top of your souvenir list, even if
its not to your taste. You cant walk a block in this city without
passing a church and an alcohol shop, so youve your choice
of temples. Belvedere and Chopin are the elite brands youll
find in fancy gift sets, but dont miss ubrwka (bison grass
vodka), Krupnik (herbal honey vodka), odkowa Gorzka
(bitter stomach vodka) and Goldwasser with its signature
gold flakes. Thats quite a shopping list.
Szambelan C-3, ul. Gobia 2 (entrance from ul. Bracka
9), tel. (+48) 12 628 70 93, www.szambelan.pl. Huge
selection of special vodkas, meads and Polish absinths de-
canted from enormous erlenmeyer flasks. The exotic bottles
make for ideal last minute gifts which they can ship for you, or
go ghetto fab by refilling a plastic bottle and stuffing it in your
luggage (or strolling the Planty). Sample first, sample often. Q
Open 11:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00.
Vinoteka 13 C-3, Rynek Gwny 13 (Pasa 13), tel.
(+48) 12 617 02 50, www.lhr.com.pl. An elite and elabo-
rate selection of wines from all over Italy. Attached is Bar 13
(see Wine Bars), where you can sample a vast majority of
them. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Wine Garage C-4, ul. Poselska 20, tel. (+48) 606 74 55
47. A unique and rather exceptional collection of organic and
sustainable wines, hailing from monasteries and independent
vintners. Probably the most exciting wine shop youll ever
visit in Pl. Also at ul. Jzefitw 8 (H-1). QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
Amber & Jewellery
Herbal vodka isnt the only golden nectar popular in Poland.
Poland is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who
handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and
coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without
bringing baby some Baltic Gold and youve booked yourself
a stint in the doghouse. The best place to begin is the Cloth
Hall in the center of the market square, where prices are
surprisingly competitive, or visit any of the many galleries
around the Old Town.
Amber Room B-3, ul. Wilna 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 77
93. This upscale amber jewellery gallery just off the main
square also offers fine gold and diamond jewellery. QOpen
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Red Rubin (Red Ruby) C-4, ul. Grodzka 25, tel. (+48)
12 421 11 34, www.redrubin.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
World of Amber C-4, ul. Grodzka 38, tel. (+48) 12 430
21 14, www.worldofamber.pl. Also at (C-3) ul. Floriaska
13 and ul. Kamieskiego 11 (Bonarka City Center). QOpen
09:00 - 20:00.
Art & Antiques
Art abounds in Krakw, and in addition to the galleries
proliferating the Old Town, local artists shop their work to
tourists right on the market square, and along ul. Pijarska
on either side of the Floriaska Gate (C/D-2). Remember, if
you are taking original art that is more than 50 years old and
of a potentially high value, youll need the proper paperwork
and permissions (see Customs, under Basics). Most proper
CRACOW
25 Grodzka Street,
phone: + 48 (12) 421 11 34
www.redrubin.pl
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Pisudski Mound Al. do Kopca (Wolski Forest). Talk
of building a mound in honour of Polands inter-war hero and
leader Jzef Pisudski were underway even before his death
in 1935, and by 1937 it was complete. Leveling the structure
was on the list of things the Nazis never got around to and
the man-made earthwork was later vandalised when com-
munist tanks pulled down the huge granite cross that once
stood at its peak. Like Polish independence, the mound has
since been restored and is commonly referred to as Inde-
pendence or Freedom Mound today. The view from the top,
which peeks above the trees of surrounding Wolski Forest, is
excellent; on a clear day the Tatras are visible to the south.
To reach it take bus 134 from outside the Cracovia hotel to
the Zoo and follow the red-blazed hiking trail to the mound.
Planty C- 4/5. Once the site of the citys 13th century
defensive fortifications, the moats were filled, the walls razed
and the towers demolished - with the notable exceptions of
the grand Floriaska Gate and impenetrable Barbican - dur-
ing Austrian occupation in the first half of the 19th century.
While today its easy to regret the short-sighted destruction of
Krakws medieval city walls, we can thank the Austrians for
replacing them with this lovely strollway of greenery encircling
the centre of the Old Town. Known as the lungs of the city,
the Planty is one of Krakws most unique and charming
features - three kilometres of public parks and gardens filled
with trees, flowers, benches and historic monuments. Walk-
ing its circuit would take over an hour, but represents a great
way to see the city. A popular place for street musicians to
perform, drunks to drink and teenage couples to make out,
if you havent kissed someone on a park bench in the Planty
before leaving town, well you havent finished your itinerary.
Stani s aw Lem Sci ence Gar den (Ogr d
Dowiadcze) Al. Pokoju 68 (Czyyny), tel. (+48) 12 346
12 85, www.ogroddoswiadczen.pl. A fun, interactive educa-
tional park for kids named after late, local sci-fi author Stanisaw
Lem. The 7 hectare park features different stations engaging
kids in optical illusions and the laws of physics. Explanations
are in English and Polish, and guides (English) are available for
an additional 15z if you call three days in advance. Get there
from the centre via trams 1, 14 or 22 getting off at the M-1/Al.
Pokoju stop. Q Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission 8/5,50z,
children under 7 free. Family ticket 22z. Combined ticket for
the Science Garden and the City Engineering Museum 11/8z.
Zoo ul. Kasy Oszczdnoci Miasta Krakowa 14 (Kro-
wodrza), tel. (+48) 12 425 35 51, www.zoo-krakow.pl.
Take bus number 134 from outside the Hotel Cracovia to make
a visit to Krakws zoo. Entrance costs 18/10z and the zoo
features some 300 species including South American sea lions,
camels, dwarf caimans and a surprisingly impressive array of
brightly-plumed pheasants (our favorite). Most of the exhibits
are outdoors in the natural setting of Las Wolski forest and there
is surprisingly little to get depressed about. Recommended.
Q Open hours extend as the days get longer: In April open
09:00-17:00, in May 09:00-18:00 and possibly later, check the
website for exact hours. Last entrance one hour before closing.
Spa & Beauty
Book-a-balance Mobile Spa tel. (+48) 503 63 39 03,
www.book-a-balance.pl. This mobile spa service brings the
pampering straight to you. Qualified and experienced profes-
sionals arrive at your apartment or hotel room with all the neces-
sary equipment to make you feel like royalty, ensuring that you
literally dont have to lift a finger beyond making the call. Offering
a range of massages (90-180z) and beauty treatments (70-
150z). Q Available 7 days a week between 08:00 and 22:00.
Dharma Spa & Mas-
sage Centre B- 2, ul.
Siemiradzkiego 20A/4,
tel . (+48) 12 423 00
58/(+48) 669 68 98 86,
www.dharmata.pl. Dharma Spa was created for those
seeking a place for the renewal of body and soul, reach-
ing harmony and tranquility through the use of natural
medicine techniques. Highly quali fied therapists from
Bali perform professional procedures and massages
including Bali massage, aromatherapeutic relaxation
massage, classic Thai massage, Swedish massage
with oils, reflexology, Hawaiian lomi lomi massage by
two therapists, and nurturing services for the body
and face with natural products. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
Massages 80-300z.
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House Of Albums A-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 17, tel. (+48)
12 429 13 63, www.houseofalbums.pl. Exclusively selling
handsome (though expensive) coffeetable books, many of
which are in English, this is the best place to buy photography
books which will prove to everyone back home how beautiful
PL is. Also a great place to kill time on a rainy day as everyone
seems to use it more like a library than a bookshop. Do they
even have coffeetables in PL? QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Massolit Books & Caf A-4, ul. Felicjanek 4, tel.
(+48) 12 432 41 50, www.massolit.com. The best
bookstore in Central Europe, owing in large part to its unique
cafe atmosphere. With books on all subjects and specialising
in Polish, East European and Jewish literature in English, here
youll also find recent English language periodicals (store
copies) to peruse over coffee and a slice of pie. Stocked with
remaindered books from the States, the selection is surpris-
ingly good, and the prices are the best youll find anywhere.
This legendary establishment has been long-running but
constantly needs and deserves support. Still if youre on a
budget you can trade the novel you finished on the train for
credit towards a new one. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 21:00.
Fashion & Accessories
Chory Czapki i Kapelusze D-7, ul. Krakowska
35a, tel. (+48) 608 28 26 31, www.czapkichorazy.
prv.pl. Maybe you aren t aware, but Polish ol d man hats
are surprisi ngl y stylish and this famil y shop is where
to get one. Af fectionatel y known as the Hat Guy, gi ve
Jzef the hatmaker a head and hell hand you a hand-
some, per fectl y fi tting hat. Bring in your own fabri c and
hell even custom make one for you. Wi th Jzefs name
and his shops Cracovian address sewn into each one,
these hats make a great gi ft and keepsake; evi dence of
a worl d that is rapi dl y vanishing. And theyre a bargain.
Jzef doesnt speak English, but there shouldnt be much
mystery between the two of you; i ts not like youre trying
to draft l egislation - i ts a hat, hes a hat guy. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Cl osed Sat, Sun.
IDEA FIX streetwear D-5, ul. Jzefa 20, tel. (+48) 12
427 56 43, www.ideafix.pl. The idea here is promoting
contemporary, young, independent Polish artists and design-
ers - and for once were not talking about painted angels or
folk pottery. This shop is straight Soho (NYC) with an alterna-
tive urban chic style and attitude that will hopefully encourage
Krakws hundreds of DJs to pick up their duds somewhere
other than H&M. Championing sustainable consumption,
drop in Idea Fix to check out clothing and accessories by
independent local designers, Polish films and music, Polish
fibre arts, interior design and more. Check out their related
and nearby urban art outlet, Idea Kix (ul. Meiselsa 8, D-6)
if you need spray cans or retro sneaks. Also dont miss the
massive 230m2 IdeaFix Koncept Store just off Plac Wolnica
at ul. Bochenska 7 (D-7). QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 17:00.
So Torbalski C-2, ul. Sawkowska 4, tel. (+48) 12
421 66 26, www.slontorbalski.pl. Makers of unique,
handmade leather handbags since 1997, the name of this
popular local brand is based on wordplay from a beloved
Polish childrens story. Tourists will appreciate not only
the quality, but especially the Folk Collection based on
traditional Maopolska folk art - another reason why Son
Torbalski has represented Krakw at numerous European
fashion fairs. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
dealers can provide this straight-away, but you may want to
check before opening your wallet. Below we list the most
interesting commercial art galleries in town; see the Culture
section for more cultural art gallery listings.
There is no shortage of possibilities for purchasing antiques
in Krakw. Serious shoppers will find that the best items
end up in the antique stores (Antyki, Antykwariat) that
abound all over Kazimierz and the Old Town with one of the
best places to prowl for lost treasure being ulica Jzefa
(D/E-6) in Kazimierz. Knowledgeable dealers offer prices
comparable to those in the rest of Europe, however there
are still bargains aplenty in the citys markets if your inter-
est is more in finding an odd souvenir while having a unique
cultural experience than finding an undervalued 19th century
artefact. Plac Nowy (D-6) is home to daily junk-peddlers, but
the real bounty is revealed during Plac Targowys Sunday
morning flea market (E-4) where every piece of trash has a
price and haggling is compulsory.
Antykwariat Rara Avis C-3, ul. Szpitalna 7/4, tel.
(+48) 12 422 03 90, www.raraavis.krakow.pl. This unique
upstairs antique bookseller is cluttered with all kinds of oddi-
ties in addition to used and rare books: old maps, graphic art,
film and museum posters, engravings, postcards and photo-
graphs. You never know what you might find, but its a joy to
peruse. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Galeria Plakatu (Poster Gallery) C-3, ul. Stolarska
8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 26 40, www.cracowpostergal-
lery.com. Poland has a proud tradition of graphic poster art
for film and theatre. Here you can browse binders of designs
for different plays, various propaganda and alternative film
posters you never knew existed for your favourite flicks.
Many are in stock and many more available to order. They
make fantastic gifts and keepsakes, or go cheap by buying
a stack of unusual postcards. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat
11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Salon Antykw Pasja B-3, ul. Jagielloska 9, tel.
(+48) 12 429 10 96, www.antykwariat-pasja.pl. One
of the best in town, specialising in furniture, porcelain, paint-
ings, jewellery. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
Books, Music & Film
Austeria E-6, ul. Jzefa 38 (High Synagogue), tel. (+48)
12 430 68 89, www.austeria.pl. Situated in the historical
High Synagogue, Austeria is the largest Jewish bookstore in
Krakw, offering literature, history, guide books and more in
a number of languages, plus music CDs and tourist informa-
tion. Upstairs is a gallery space showing revolving historical
exhibits related to Judaica in Krakw. Admission to the
exhibit, 9/6z. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
Empik Megastore C-3, Rynek Gwny 5, tel. (+48)
12 423 81 90, www.empik.com. Right on the market
square, Empik is a veri table one-stop shop for books,
music, films, video games and more. A sizeable collection
of English-language periodicals lives on the ground floor,
though the price mark-ups can be shocking; read them in
the cafe upstairs. On the upper floors youll find guide books,
maps and an English language fiction section, as well as
video game consoles for rainy days. The basement houses
a generally shabby, but also totally unpredictable selection
of overpriced CDs and here you can also buy tickets to major
concerts and festivals in PL. Also at ul. Podgrska 34 (J-3,
Galeria Kazimierz) and ul. Pawia 5 (D-1, Galeria Krakowska).
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
Wittchen D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska), tel.
(+48) 518 02 27 66, www.wittchen.com. One of Polands
top luxury brands, Wittchen creates high-quality hand-made
leather goods, including shoes, jackets, hand bags, gloves,
wallets, luggage and more. Each comes with a hologramed
Certificate of Authenticity proving its the real deal. Carried
at many shops around Krakw, visit one of the shopping
malls to see their company showroom. Also at ul. Podgrska
34 (J-3, Galeria Kazimierz) and ul. Kamieskiego 11 (Bonarka
City Center). QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Food & Sweets
Ciuciu B-3, ul. Gobia 3, tel. (+48) 698 52 15 42,
www.ciuciu.pl. Touting themselves as the worlds small-
est candy factory, this shop is indeed eeny-weeny and
completely charming. Ciuciu specialises in personalised hard
candies and bonbons, adding your small logo, inscription or
pattern to the flavour and colours of your choice. Versatility
is limited, but this is a pretty great gift idea. Or drop in and
see what theyve got prepared already; free sample almost
guaranteed. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
Delikatesy 13 C-3, Rynek Gwny 13 (Pasa 13), tel.
(+48) 12 617 02 27, www.lhr.com.pl. Located in the
basement of Krakws nicest most central shopping mall,
this Italian delicatessen offers a wide range of high-quality
edible goods including over 100 varieties of Italian cheese
and meats, parma ham, truffles, cooking oils and balsamic
vinagrettes, as well as delicious locally-made preservative
free honeys and jams. Pies, pastries and cakes are also
made daily. With the sheer volume of outstanding goods,
Delikatessy 13 is probably one of the most dangerous places
you can take your wallet when youre hungry. QOpen 09:00
- 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.
Delikatesy Wierzynek C-3, Rynek Gwny 16, tel.
(+48) 12 424 96 20, www.wierzynek.pl. Great for
gi fts, here youll find a pl ethora of pri cey, but gourmet,
chocol ates, caramel s, bon-bons, cakes and bi scui ts
al ongsi de tradi ti onal Polish li quors and meads. Some
snazzy gi ft boxes are avai l abl e for the aestheti cal l y-
obsessed; try the edi bl e box made of chocolate i f youre
determined to go ki tsch shopping on the Rynek. QOpen
09:00 - 22:00.
Karmello C-4, Pl. Wszystkich witych 11, tel. (+48)
12 422 03 72, www.karmello.pl. The chocolate shop
to end all chocolate shops, Karmello is Krakws most ex-
quisite spot for indulging the sweet tooth. Several stunning
display cases practically sparkle with over 50 varieties of
exclusively-crafted chocolates, plus truffles, chocolate bars,
candied chocolate-dipped fruit and other specialties. Perfect
for picking up a nice gift in a pinch, or get them personalised
in advance. So amazing it must be...Italian? Belgian? Nope,
Karmello actually hails from Bielsko-Biaa - about 90mins
southwest of Krakw in Silesia. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00, Mon
06:00 - 22:00.
Krakowski Kredens C-3, ul. Grodzka 7, tel. (+48)
696 49 00 12, www.krakowskikredens.pl. An ol d-
fashioned dry goods store of expensi ve, yet exquisi te,
Galician delicacies - including jams, honeys, liquors, cured
meats, candies and pickled things. A warm roll with their
sliced pork and mustard from the streetside window is
a gourmet street food bargain at only 5-9z (depending
on weight), while we can also recommend the black pud-
ding (kaszanka) and the pork hock (golonka). Also at ul.
Kamiskiego 11 (Bonarka City Center) ul. Pawia 5 (D-1,
Galeria Krakowska) and the airport. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,
Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
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ni rs than youl l fi nd al most anywhere el se: weavi ngs,
tapestri es, rugs and embroi dery, Bol esawi ec cerami c,
ol d fashioned toys and trinkets, paper cutouts, posters,
postcards, painted glass, l eather products, chess sets,
folk costumes and more. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
Rock Shop C-3, Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11
55, www.hardrockcafe.pl. You know a city has made
it when it gets a Hard Rock Cafe and is there anything
which says Ive been there more than a Hard Rock Cafe
t-shirt? Ahem. Pick up the Krakw one to add to your
collection at the shop inside the HRC opposite St Marys
Church. Cl assi c whi te costs 99z, bl ack costs 105z.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
Tuban C-2, ul. Szczepaska 7, tel. (+48) 533 66 43
73, www.tuban.pl. This Polish company claims to be the
only in Europe which specialises in bubble manufacture.
Smirk all you want, but their bubble soap is reputed to be
peerless in its quality and the size of the bubbles it has the
potential to create (over 2 metres!?!). In this little shop, youll
find everything imaginable for blowing bubbles of all sizes,
from bubble pistols, swords and saxophones, to cords for
making enormous bubbles. Also at (D-2) ul. Szpitalna 40 and
(B-6) ul. Smocza 10. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Markets
Plac Nowy D-6, , tel. (+48) 12 422 25 59. This historic
square was a Jewish market in the pre-war days, with its
rotunda serving as a kosher slaughterhouse. Today youll
still find butcher shops inside, while fast food windows
line the exterior. In the open trading stalls surrounding the
roundhouse produce and junk are sold daily. Its a di fferent,
often unpredictable scene on the square each morning, but
Saturdays are generally reserved for more junk/antiques
and Sundays for clothing, while Tuesday and Friday morn-
ings its a full-on rabbit swap and pigeon fair - one of the
most bizarre spectacles you can possibly witness i f you
arri ve earl y enough (ends about 9:00). Markets begin
around 5:30 in the morning and generally end by early to
mid-afternoon depending. In the evenings, Plac Nowy turns
into one of the best drinking destinations in town, lined with
atmospheric bars.
Plac Targowy Unitarg (Hala Targowa) E- 4, ul.
Grzegrzecka, tel. (+48) 12 429 61 55, www.unitarg.
krakow.pl. The citys best outdoor market, Hala Targowa is
open everday for everything from fruit, flowers and produce
to pirated DVDs, dodgy underwear and cheap wristwatches.
Sunday is undoubtedly the best day of the week to hit the
stalls, when it becomes a full-blown sprawling flea market
of Old World antiques, Catholic icons, village detritus, vinyl
records, war memorabilia, mismatched shoes, stolen bikes
and pretty much anything you can dream of at bargain prices.
Different vendors set their own hours, but most are there at
dawn and packing up between 14:00 and 15:00. At night on
Plac Targowy youll find a 24 hour alcky shop and the best
grilled kielbasa in town, sold from a van.
Stary Kleparz C/D-1, Rynek Kleparski 20, tel. (+48)
12 634 15 32. A tradition of over 800 years, this large,
covered, open-air marketplace just north of the Barbakan
offers bargain prices and the best selection in the city for
local produce, fruit, meat and cheeses, in addition to spices,
socks, sweaters and whatever oddball commodities are the
order of the day during your visit. They say they are open
until 18:00, but most stalls will have closed up much earlier.
QOpen 06:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.
Produkty Benedyktyskie (Benedictine Prod-
ucts) C-3, Rynek Gwny 6 (entrance from ul. Sienna),
tel. (+48) 12 422 20 15, www.sklepbenedyktynski.pl.
This shop, set up by the Benedictine monks of Tyniec Abbey,
sells such an astounding variety of products - cheese, jam,
wine, beer, honey, tea, herbs, syrups, meats - it raises two
eyebrows over how they find the time. All the products are
completely natural, without pigment, and unilaterally excel-
lent and make excellent gifts and can even be purchased
through their multilingual website. Also at Tyniec Abbey and
(D-6) ul. Krakowska 29.QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 -
18:00. Closed Sun.
Wawel C-3, Rynek Gwny 33, tel. (+48) 12 423 12
47, www.wawel.com.pl. Traditional Krakw chocolate and
confectionary since 1898, producing the local specialties
Mieszanka Krakowska, Kasztanki, Krwka, Malaga and
more. Also at ul. Kalwaryjska 19-21 (I-5) and ul. Wielopole
12 (D-4). QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.
Gifts & Souvenirs
Its only natural to want to bring something back home from
your time in Poland, as well as prove to those who have no
idea where the country is that it does indeed exist. Also, if
you plan on visiting or staying with a Polish family while here
its common courtesy to arrive with a gift. While there are
chintzy souvenir shops all over the Old Town, the Mecca of
them all is the centuries old Cloth Hall (C-3, open 10:00-
19:00) in the middle of the market square. Essentially a huge
souvenir market, in the packed stalls youll find all sorts of
Polish keepsakes including amber jewellery, carved wood,
lace and cloth handicrafts and more. For a tourist market
the quality is surprisingly high and the prices generally fair,
so theres no shame in shopping there. Below weve listed
more unique local or national Polish businesses where you
can find attractive gifts and feel good about how you are
spending your money at the same time.
Bajo C-5, ul. Grodzka 60, tel. (+48) 12 429 14 42,
hwww.bajo.eu. Founded by sculptor, architect, and Jagiel-
lonian University professor Wojciech Bajor, this company
aims to create natural toys for natural play, without any of the
flashing lights or button-pushing that kids of the computer
age are already overly inundated with these days. Ranging
from colourful vehicles and animals to educational blocks, all
of Bajos toys are artistically designed entirely out of wood.
Ideal for infants and young children and entirely Cracovian.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Dekor Art C-2, ul. Sawkowska 11, tel. (+48) 12
284 15 67. The opening of this shop in a passageway
across from Mila makes ul. Sawkowska Krakws official
Bolesawiec shopping corridor. I f youre not familiar with
this well-loved folk ceramic brand, head here straightaway
to get introduced. Crammed full of colourful dishware with
simple, hand-painted and highly-recognisable folk moti fs,
this bargain shop is sure to help you make someone on
your list happy. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun.
Galeria Bukowski C-3, ul. Sienna 1, tel. (+48) 12
433 88 55, www.galeriabukowski.pl. A Polish-owned
worldwide teddy bear kingdom; Polish Paddington needs
a home. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Mon, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Krakuska - Sztuka Ludowa B- 3, ul. Szewska 9,
tel. (+48) 12 430 21 04. This fantasti c folk shop is
onl y a minute from the market square and features a
more di verse range of decentl y-pri ced qual i ty souve-
Below weve tried to identify some uniquely Polish (and/
or Cracovian) gift ideas for everyone on your list:
Girlfriend/Wife:
Two words: jewellery and chocolate. For the first choose
a beautiful pair of amber earrings from World of Amber,
and for the second head to Karmello for some local
sweets that are both artistic and delicious.
Boyfriend/Husband:
If you really want to spoil your man, head to Wittchen and
outfit him in a luxury leather jacket, or perhaps something
more practical and affordable like a hand-made wallet. If
he has a taste for tipples, turn him on to Polish vodka
brands like ubrwka or Goldwasser, or head to Szambe-
lan where you can decant one of their exclusive meads,
absinthes or flavoured vodkas into a handsome gift bottle.
Mother:
Amber always wins with women, so stop at World of
Amber to pick out a pendant mom will be proud to wear.
Or how about a stylish local leather handbag from Son
Torbalski? All moms also love Bolesawiec folk pottery,
so head to Dekor Art.
Father:
As a man matures he needs a good hat, no? The
Chory Czapki i Kapelusze hatmakers workshop
has a surprisingly stylish assortment of hand-made hats
that would look great on Dad. Or try Antykwariat Rara
Avis for something old, odd and aesthetic that might
be more Dads style. If that fails, try what the Poles do
when things arent working out: vodka.
Sister:
The appeal of amber will hold true for any woman on your
list, or try the natural, monk-made lotions and cosmetics
of Produkty Benedyktyskie.
Brother:
For home boy hit Idea Fix and peruse their collection of
locally designed hoodies, t-shirts and other urban gear. If
your brothers more of an intellectual, search for a unique
3-player chess set, or fine-crafted wooden traditional
chessboard in the stalls of the Cloth Hall. If the young
mans an artist, pick out an avant-garde Polish film or the-
atre poster from the vast collection at Galeria Plakatu.
Children:
Childhood hasnt been a historically successful concept
in Poland, which might explain why what few toys there
are for sale in PL are so outrageously expensive. If the
kids are infants, head straight to Bajo for some stylishly
wholesome and locally-made wooden toys, or Galeria
Bukowski for a Cracovian teddy bear. Some cute sweets
from Ciu Ciu are also a good option, or check out the
the bubble-blowing gadgets at Tuban.
Grandparents:
The land of babcias has plenty that will please the old
folks back home, including linen and lacework from the
Cloth Hall, Bolesawiec folk ceramic from Dekor Art,
local jarred foodstuffs from Krakowski Kredens or
Produkty Benedyktyski, a Krakw photo album from
House of Albums, or a special Cracovian Christmas
decoration from Calik.
Gift Shopping At a Glance
Bonarka City Centre ul. Kamieskiego 11
(Podgrze), tel. (+48) 12 298 60 00, www.bonar-
kacitycenter.pl. The superlative western shopping
experience has been delivered to Krakw, making room
for itself directly across the street from a former concen-
tration camp and the nature preserve it shares a name
with ( just beyond the limits of the IYP map: imaginary
coordinates K-6). Bonarka City Centre is home to 91,000
square metres of retail space with 270 shops including
Auchan, Leroy Merlin, Komputronik and 267 others, over
30 restaurants and cafes, the largest cinema complex
in the city and 32,000 free parking spaces. Built on the
site of a former chemical plant - the iconic smokestack
of which remains - the heart of this city within a city
features eight two-storey palm trees flanking a fountain
under a glass ceiling. To reach this commercial Xanadu,
take bus 164 to Puszkarska, or buses 144, 173, 179 or
184 to the Kamieskiego stop. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.
Galeria Kazimierz J-3, ul. Podgrska 34, tel. (+48)
12 433 01 01, www.galeriakazimierz.pl. Opened in
2005, the success of Galeria Kazimierz marked another
step in Krakws economic renaissance and rated as
the areas most prestigious mall before the overblown
opening of Bonarka. Still the most likeable shopping
centre in town, GK boasts over 130 retail units including
media giants EMPiK and Euro RTV AGD, fashion outfitters
H&M and Zara, cosmetic specialists Sephora and Super-
pharm, and revered jewellers W. Kruk and Swarovski. The
Alma supermarket offers Krakws premier selection of
food and beverages, while those preferring a sit down
meal can choose from the American-themed Jeffs or
Pizza Hut. For recreational needs Galeria Kazimierz also
touts a ten screen Cinema City complex with a fitness
club underneath it. Situated next to the Kazimierz district
the mall is easily accessed on foot; those arriving by car
have 1,600 free parking spaces to pick from. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Galeria Krakowska D-1, ul. Pawia 5, tel. (+48)
12 428 99 00, www.galeria-krakowska.pl. Covering
60,000 square metres over three floors, if you arrived
in the centre by train its unlikely you missed this place:
a huge glass and steel shopping Mecca opposite the
old station building, which as malls go makes it one of
the most centrally located in Europe. GK has helped
contribute to the regeneration of an area that once was
home to dodgy dwellings and dealings, and now has a
new square and train platform access. Stores housed
here include H&M, Peek & Cloppenburg, electronics
giant Saturn, an enormous Carrefour supermarket and
over 260 other retail units, 1400 car parking spaces, an
entertainment centre and restaurants. QOpen 09:00 -
22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Pasa 13 C-3, Rynek Gwny 13, tel. (+48) 12
617 02 27, www.lhr.com.pl. This gorgeous old Rynek
townhouse was converted into a snazzy shopping area in
2005 to become the first branch of the trademark Likus
Concept Stores. Not your typical shopping mall, Pasa
13 has 17 designer shops including Dolce&Gabbana,
Vero Moda and Miss Sixty. Youll also find a fine Italian
delikatessen and bar (U Louisa) in the cellar. QOpen
11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. While all other shops
in Pasa 13 open at 11:00, Delikatesy 13 and Bar 13
are open from 09:00.
Shopping Malls
122
DIRECTORY
123
STREET REGISTER
24hr Pharmacies
Apteka I-5, ul. Kalwaryjska 94, tel. (+48) 12 656 18
50, www.doz.pl/apteki/a65770-apteka.
Apteka Galla H-1, ul. Galla 26, tel. (+48) 12 636
73 65.
Apteka Pod Opatrznoci B-2, ul. Karmelicka 23,
tel. (+48) 12 631 19 80.
Business Associations
American Chamber of Commerce in Krakw ul.
Jodowa 13 (Zwierzyniec), tel. (+48) 660 72 77 46,
www.amcham.com.pl.
British Polish Chamber of Commerce B-3, ul. w.
Anny 9, tel. (+48) 12 421 70 30, www.bpcc.org.pl.
Consulates & Embassies
Austria H-2, ul. Krupnicza 42, tel. (+48) 12 424 99
30, www.aussenministerium.at/krakaugk. Consular
Department, ul. Cybulskiego 9 (A-9), tel. (+48) 12 424 99 40.
Denmark B-3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
Finland B-3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
Germany C-3, ul. Stolarska 7, tel. (+48) 12 424 30 00,
www.krakau.diplo.de.
Instytut Francuski C-4, ul. Stolarska 15, tel. (+48)
12 424 53 50, institutfrancais.pl.
Japan I-2, ul. Grabowskiego 5/3, tel. (+48) 12 633 43
59, www.pl.emb-japan.go.jp.
Mexico ul. Wiedeska 72 (Bronowice), tel. (+48) 12
638 05 58.
Norway H-1, ul. Mazowiecka 25, tel. (+48) 12 633 03
76, www.amb-norwegia.pl.
Russia B-1, ul. Biskupia 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 26 47,
www.rusemb.pl.
Slovakia D-3, ul. w. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 425
49 70, www.ambasada-slowacji.pl.
Sweden B-3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
Ukraine K-2, Al. Beliny-Pramowskiego 4, tel. (+48)
12 429 60 66, www.plk.internetdsl.pl.
USA C-3, ul. Stolarska 9, tel. (+48) 12 424 51 00,
krakow.usconsulate.gov.
UK ul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 12 421 70 30,
www.ukinpoland.fco.gov.uk.
Emergency Room
5 Wojskowy Szpital Kliniczny I-1, ul. Wrocawska
1-3, tel. (+48) 12 630 81 40, www.5wszk.com.pl.
Szpital Uniwersytecki J-2, ul. Kopernika 21, tel.
(+48) 12 424 82 77, www.su.krakow.pl.
Language Schools
Accent School of Polish J- 4, ul. Kcik 10, tel.
(+48) 12 656 75 68, www.polishforforeigners.com.
Offering group or individual Polish language classes for
foreigners.
Jagiellonian University School of Polish Lan-
guage and Culture B-2, ul. Garbarska 7a, tel. (+48)
12 421 36 92, www.plschool.uj.edu.pl. Intensive or
non-intensive, individual or group Polish language classes
available for all levels through one of the oldest universities
in Europe.
Private Clinics
Ars Medica D-1, ul. Warszawska 17, tel. (+48) 12 423
38 34, www.ars-medica.pl.
Lux-Med I-5, ul. Wadowicka 6, tel. (+48) 22 33 22
888, www.luxmed.pl.
Medicina A-6, ul. Barska 12, tel. (+48) 12 266 96 65,
www.medicina.pl.
Medicover K-3, ul. Podgrska 36, tel. (+48) 12 629
88 00, www.medicover.pl. Also at Al. Jana Pawa II 190
(Czyyny), ul. Bobrzyskiego 37 (Dbniki).
Religious Services
Christ the King Church (Chrystus Krlem) K-2, ul.
Mogilska 43, tel. (+48) 509 50 16 39, www.chk.org.
pl. English masses are held each Sunday at 10:30 in this
Evangelical church outside the Old Town.
Kupa Synagogue D- 6, Ul. Warszauera 8. Jewish
services held regularly, check www.remuh.j ewish.org.pl
for details.
St. Giles Church (Koci w. Idziego) C-5, ul.
Grodzka 67, www.krakow.dominikanie.pl. Q Holy Mass
in English each Sunday at 10:30.
Translators & Interpreters
Anton Fecica B-2, ul. Dunajewskiego 8/11, tel. (+48)
503 65 29 80, www.fecica.pl. Can translate official docu-
ments. Call in advance.
Lingua Expert C-3, ul. Mikoajska 5/9, tel. (+48) 12
421 06 63, www.linguaexpert.pl. Professional translators
who provide 24 hour services in all languages.
Changing money is increasingly less fretful to do, but
as with most international destinations it is still worth
keeping checking rates particularly at entry points such
as airports or in major tourist areas. We check rates of
a selection of money exchange offices (kantors) every
two months. Here were their buying rates (how many
zloty you would get for one unit of foreign currency) for
the 21.03.12 compared to the following National Bank
of Poland (NBP) published rates for that morning of Euro
1 = 4,1824z, US$1 = 3,1594z, GBP 1 = 5,0098z.
Currency Exchange ul. Medweckiego 1 (Balice
Airport), tel. (+48) 12 639 32 58, www.currency-
express.com. One point in arrivals and another in depar-
tures. 1 Euro = 3.58z, 1 Dollar = 2.65z, 1 Pound = 4.30z,
No commission.
Eurokantor B-3, ul. Szewska 21, tel. (+48) 12
421 55 65. 1 Euro = 4.12z, 1 Dollar = 3.10z, 1 Pound
= 4.90z, No commission.
Kantor D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska), tel.
(+48) 515 12 58 84, www.kantor-exchange.pl. 1
Euro = 4.12z, 1 Dollar = 3.10z, 1 Pound = 4.92z, No
commission.
Kantor C-1, ul. Duga 8, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 55,
www.kantor.krakow.pl. 1 Euro = 4.12z, 1 Dollar =
3.10z, 1 Pound = 4.92z, No commission.
Kantor J-3, ul. Podgrska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz),
tel. (+48) 535 70 08 04. 1 Euro = 4.10z, 1 Dollar =
3.09z, 1 Pound = 4.90z, No commission.
Pekao SA ul. Medweckiego 1 (Balice Airport), tel.
(+48) 12 639 32 46, www.pekao.com.pl. The bank at
the airport also offer currency exchange. 1 Euro = 4.03z,
1 Dollar = 3.04z, 1 Pound = 4.83z, 5% commission.
Currency Exchange
29 Listopada, Al. J-1
3 Maja, Al. G/H-2/3
Akacjowa L-1
Akademicka H-2
Aliny L-1
Altanowa G-1
Ariaska J-2
Armii Krajowej, Al. F/G-1
Asnyka B-1/2
Augustiaska D-6-7
Bajeczna L-3
Bauckiego A-6
Bandtkiego F-1
Bandurskiego K-1/2
Barska A/B-6/7
Bartosza E-6
Basztowa C/D-2
Batorego I-2
Beliny-Pramowskiego, Al.
K-1/2
Berka Joselewicza E-5
Bernardyska B/C-5/6
Biaa Droga H-4
Biernackiego H-1
Biskupia B-1
Blachnickiego, ks. J-3
Blich J-3
Bobrowskiego K-3
Boczna H-4
Bohomolca L-1
Bocheska J-4
Bonerowska E-4
Boni fraterska D-7
Bora-Komorowskiego, gen.
K/L-1
Borowego F-2
Bosacka E-1/2
Boego Ciaa D-6/7
Boznaskiej K-1
Bracka C-3/4
Brzownicza F-2
Brodowicza K-1/2
Bronowicka F/G-1
Brzozowa D-5
Buhaka A-7
Buszka F/G-2
Bydgoska G-1/2
Bytomska H-1
Ceglarska H-5
Celna J-4
Chmielowskiego I/J-4
Chocimska H-1/2
Chodkiewicza J-3
Chodowieckiego G-2
Chopina H-2
Ciemna E-6
Cieszyska I-1
Cicha F-1
wiklowa F-5
Cybulskiego A-3
Cystersw L-2/3
Czapskich A-3
Czarnieckiego J-4
Czarnowiejska H-2
Czarodziejska G/H-4
Czysta A-2
Czywka J-5
Dbrowskiego, gen. K-4
Dbska L-2
Dajwr E-6
Daszyskiego J-3/4
Dbnicka H-4
Dbowa A-7
Dekerta K-4
Dembowskiego J/K-5
Dietla C/E-4/6
Duga C-1
Dugosza J-5
Dobrego Pasterza K/L-1
Dolnych Mynw A-2
Dominikaska C-4
Droga do Zamku B/C-5-6
Dunajewskiego B/C-2
Dworska H-4
Dzielskiego K/L-1
Estery D-6
Fabryczna L-2/3
Faata H-3
Feldmana A-1
Felicjanek A-4
Fenna Sereno I-2
Filarecka H-3
Flisacka H-3/4
Floriaska C/D-2/3
Focha, Al. marsz. G/H-3
Franciszkaska B/C-4
Friedleina I-1
Galla G/H-1
Garbarska B-2
Garczyskiego K-2
Garncarska H-2/3
Gazowa E-7
Gsia K-3
Gowackiego G-1
Goetla G-2
Gobia B-3
Gontyna G-3
Grabowskiego A-1
Gramatyka G-1
Grodzka C-3/5
Gromadzka L-4/5
Grottgera H/I-1
Grunwaldzka K-1/2
Gryfity G-3
Grzegrzecka E-4
Gzymsikw I-1
Halicka J-3/4
Helclw I-1
Herlinga-Grudziskiego K-4
Heweliusza L-5
Hofmana F-3
Humberta H-3
Igrcw G-2
Ingardena H-3
Izaaka D/E-6
Jabonowskich H/I-3
Jadwigi z obzowa F/G-1
Jagielloska B-2/3
Jachowicza L-2
Jakuba E-6
Jaskcza H-3
Joselewicza J-3
Jzefa D/E-6
Jzefitw H-1
Kadecka G-1
Kalwaryjska I/J-5
Kamienna I/J-1
Kamieskiego I/J-5
Kanonicza C-4/5
Kapelanka H-4/5
Kapucyska A/B-3
Karowicza H-2
Karmelicka A/B-1/2
Kasztelaska G/H-3
Kazimierza Odnowiciela K-1
Kazimierza Wielkiego G/H-1
Kielecka K-1/2
Kiekowskiego K/L-4
Kijowska, Al. G/H-1/2
Kiliskiego A-7
Klimeckiego K/L-4
Kmieca H-1
Kobierzyska H-5
Kochanowskiego A-1/2
Koletek C-6
Kotaja E-3
Komandosw I-4/5
Konarskiego H-2
Konfederacka A-7
Konopnickiej A/B-5/7
Konwisarzy F-1/2
Kopernika D/E-3
Kordylewskiego K-2/3
Kociuszki H-3
Kosynierw L-2
Kotlarska K-3
Kolarska L-5
Krakowska D-6/7
Krasickiego I-5
Krasiskiego, Al. H-3
Kraszewskiego H-3
Kredowa F-5
Kremerowska A-1
Krlewska H-1
Krlowej Jadwigi F/G-2/3
Krtka C-1
Krowoderska C-1
Krupnicza A/B-2/3
Krzemionki J-5
Krzesawicka L-1
Krzywa C-1
Krzywda L-4/5
ks. Kordeckiego C-6/7
Ksicia Jzefa F/G-4
Kujawska H-1
Kupa E-6
Kurkowa J-2
Kurniki D-1
Kwartowa L-1
Lanckoroska K-5
Lea F/H-1/2
Legionw Pisudskiego J-4/5
Lenartowicza H/I-1/2
Leszczynowa F-3
Lewkowa E-6
Limanowskiego J/K-4
Lipowa K-4
Litewska H-1
Loretaska A-2/3
Lubelska I-1
Lubicz D/E-2
Lublaska K-1
Lubomirskiego J/K-2
Ludowa K-5
Ludwinowska I-4/5
Lwowska J-K/4
obzowska B-1/2
Madaliskiego A-6
Maa A-4
Malczewskiego F/G-3-4
May Rynek C-3
Masarska K-3
Matejki, Pl. I/J-2
Mazowiecka H/I-1
Meiselsa D-6
Metalowcw E-3/4
Mickiewicza, Al. H-2
Michaowskiego A-1/2
Michaowskiego H/I-2
Mikoajska C/D-3
Miodowa D/E-5/6
Mitery I-5
Mlaskotw H-3
Myska K-1
Mogilska K/L-1/2
Moniuszki K-2
Monte Cassino A-7
Montelupich I-1
Mosinicza K-2
Mostowa D/E-7
Na Grdku D-3
Na Przejciu E-6
Na Szaniec L-3
Na Ustroniu I-4
Na Zjedzie J-4
Nadwislanska J-4
Nawojki G-2
Obona H-1
Odlewnicza F-1/2
Odrowa I-1
Ofiar Dbia L-3
Ogrodowa D-1
Oleandry H-2/3
Olszaska K-1
Orawska I-5
Orzeszkowej C-6/7
Owcy-Orwicza F-3
Paderewskiego C/D-1
Paproci L-4
Parkowa J-5
Patynw G-4
Pauliska C-6/7
Pawia D-1/2
Pawlickiego, ks. H-4/5
Pdzichw I-1/2
Piastowska F/G-1/3
Piekarska C/D-7
Pietrusiskiego G-4/5
Pijarw K/L-1
Pijarska C/D-2
Pisudskiego A/B-3/4
Piwna J-4
Pl. Baw E-6
Pl. Bernardyski C-5
Pl. Biskupi B/C-1
Pl. Bohaterw Getta J-4
Pl. gen. Sikorskiego A-3
Pl. Inwalidw H-2
Pl. Kossaka A-5
Pl. Mariacki C-3
Pl. Matejki D-1/2
Pl. Na Groblach B-4/5
Pl. Nowy D-6
Pl. Sowiaski C-1
Pl. Serkowskiego J-4/5
Pl. Szczepaski B-2
Pl. w. Ducha D-2
Pl. w. Marii Magdaleny C-4
Pl. Wolnica D-7
Pl. Wszytkich witych C-4
Paszowska L-4
Pod Kopcem F-3
Pod Kopcem, Al. K-5
Podbrzezie J-3
Podbrzezie D-5/6
Podgrska E-7
Podchorych G-1
Podskale I/J-5
Podwale B-2/3
Podzamcze B/C-5
Pokoju, Al. K/L-2/3
Pkole L-3
Pomorska H-1
Portowa K/L-4
Poselska B/C-4
Powile A/B-5
Powronicza A-6
Powstacw lskich, Al.
J/K-5
Powstacw Wielkopolskich,
Al. K/L-4/5
Powstania Warszaw. Al.
K-2/3
Prdnicka I-1
Prandoty J/K-1
Praska G/H-4
Prusa H-3
Przedwionie I-4/5
Przemysowa K-4
Przybyszewskiego F-1
Puaskiego A-6/7
Racawicka H-1
Radziwiowska E-2/3
Rajska A-2
Rakowicka J/K-1/2
Reformacka A/B-2
Rkawka J/K-4
Retoryka A-4
Reymana G-2
Reymonta G/H-2
Rodackiego J/K-5
Rana A-6
Ruczaj F/G-5
Rybaki I/J-4
Rybna L-4/5
Rynek Dbnicki A-6
Rynek Gwny C-3
Rynek Kleparski C/D-1
Rynek Podgrski J-4
Rzeszowska E-6
Rzenicza K-3
Sdowa K-2
Salezjaska G/H-5
Salwatorska H-3
Sandomierska A/B-6
Sarego C/D-4/5
Saska L-4/5
Senacka C-4
Senatorska H-3
Siedleckiego E-4/5
Siemieskiego G/H-1
Siemiradzkiego A-1
Sienkiewicza H-1
Sienna C-3/4
Skaeczna C/D-7
Skalica F-5
Skarbiskiego G-1
Skawiska C/D-7
Skodowskiej-Curie D/E-3
Skwerowa A-7
Sawkowska C-2/3
Somiana H-4/5
Soneckiego K-1
Sonecznikowa F-3
Sowackiego, Al. H/I-1
Smocza B-6
Smolesk A/B-4
Smolki I/J-5
Sobieskiego I-2
Sobieskiego Jana III A/B-1
Sotyka E-3/4
Spasowskiego A/B-1
Spiowa F-1/2
Starowilna D/E-4/6
Staszica I-1
Stawarza J-5
Stefana Batorego A/B-1
Stoczniowcw L-4
Stolarska C-3/4
Stradomska C/D-5/6
Straszewskiego I-3
Strzelcw K-1
Strzelecka E-2
Studencka A/B-3
Sukiennicza C-6
Supniewskiego K-1/2
Swoszowicka J-5
Symfoniczna H-2
Syrokomli H-3
Szablowskiego F-1
Szafera K-2/3
Szczepaska B/C-2/3
Szenwalda L-1/2
Szeroka E-6
Szewska B-2/3
Szklarska L-4
Szlachtowskiego G-1
Szlak I/J-1
Szpitalna C/D-2/3
Szwedzka H-4
Szymanowskiego H-2
lska I-1
liska I-5
lusarska K-4
niadeckiego J-3/4
w. Agnieszki C-6
w. Anny B-3
w. Bronisawy G-3
w. Filipa C/D-1
w. Gertrudy C/D-4/5
w. Idziego C-5
w. Jacka H-5
w. Jana C-2/3
w. Katarzyny D-6/7
w. Krzya D-3
w. azarza J-3
w. Marka C/D-2/3
w. Sebastiana C/E-5
w. Stanisawa C-7
w. Teresy I-1
w. Tomasza B/D-2/3
w. Wawrzyca D/E-6/7
witokrzyska I-1
Tenczyska B-4
Tkacka H-2
Topolowa J-2
Toruska G-2
Traugutta K-4
Trynitarska D/E-7
Twardowskiego H-5
Tyniecka F/H-4/5
Urzdnicza H-1/2
Wadowicka I-5
Waowa K-4
Wandy K-3
Warmijska G-1
Warszauera D/E-6
Warszawska D-1
Wasilewskiego A-7
Wska E-6
Waszyngtona G-3
Wglowa D-7
Wenecja A-3
Westerplatte D-2/3
Widok L-3
Wielopole J-3
Wierzbowa I-4
Wietora I-4
Wiolarska G-4
Wilna B-3
Wadysawa okietka I-1
Wociaska F-1
Wodna L-5
Wodocigowa F-4
Wjtowska H-1
Wolnica, Pl. J-4
Worcela D-2
Wrblewskiego I-1/2
Wrocawska H/I-1
Wrzesiska E-4
Wyczkowskiego G/H-3
Wygoda A-4
Wyspiaskiego H-1
Zacisze D-1/2
Zaktek H-1
Zamenhofa D/E-2
Zamkowa A-6
Zarzecze F-1
Zatorska I-4/5
Zauek K-4
Zegadowicza A-4
Zieliskiego, gen. G/H-4
Zwierzyniecka A/B-4/5
Zwycistwa L-2/3
Zyblikiewicza D/E-3/4
Zygmunta Augusta J-2
elazna J-1
kiewskiego K-3
B U L L E T I N O F T H E K O G E L - MO G E L WO R K P L AC E C O M MI T T E E
ul. Sienna 12, 31-041 Krakw, Phone 12 422 23 62
Open 10 a.m. till 11 p.m. Credit cards welcome.
Bon Apptit!
Sais Comrade Chef
(I STORIC RESTAURANT NOW RE
OPENED Cone and savour tle
good old tines wlen lile was black
and wlite and roletarians roaned
tle streets ol Cracow. Only tle best
lor tle working class! ,ONGLIVETHE
REVOLUTION
Etap
Hilton Garden
view point
129
Amadeus 26
andel's Hotel Cracow 26
Apartmenthouse Grodzka
31
Apartments Cracow 31
Ascot Hotel 28
B&B La Fontaine 31
Best Western Krakw Old
Town 26
Campanile 28
Classic 28
Copernicus 24
Eden 28
Etap Krakw Bronowice 30
Flamingo Hostel 31
Fortuna Bis 28
Francuski 26
Galaxy 26
Good Bye Lenin Pub &
Garden 31
Grand 24
Hilton Garden Inn Krakw
26
Holiday Inn Krakow City
Center 24
Hotel Stary 24
Hotel Unicus 26
Chopin Cracow 28
Ibis Krakw Centrum 28
Kadetus 30
Karmel 29
Klezmer Hois 29
Matejko 26
Niebieski Art Hotel & SPA
25
Novotel Krakw Bronowice
27
Novotel Krakw Centrum
27
Park Inn by Radisson 29
Pod R 27
Andersa, al., gen. M/N-1/3
Artystw N-3
Bardosa T-4
Batalionu Parasol M-1
Boruty-Spiechowicza, gen.
M-2/3
Bulwarowa P/R-1/4
Centralny, pl. N/O-3
Cerchw P-4
Daniowskiego R-4
Gajocha O-3/4
Gardy-Godlewskiego, pk.
O-2/3
Jana Pawa II, al. M/R-3/4
Klasztorna R-5
Kleinera T-1
Kocmyrzowska M/N-1
Lehra-Spawiskiego T-1
Ludmierska N-1/2
empickiego S-1
Mierzwy O/R-3/4
Mocickiego O/P-1
Pod Wawelem 29
Pollera 29
Polonia 29
Qubus Hotel Krakw 27
Radisson Blu 25
Royal 29
Rubinstein 27
Ruczaj 29
Sheraton Krakw 25
The Bonerowski Palace 25
The Secret Garden Hostel
31
Tournet 30
Wawel 29
Wyspiaski 29
Al Dente 46
Alef 51
Amadeus 38
Amarone 46
Ambasada ledzia 48
Ancora 38
Andromeda 38
Aperitif 36
Aperitif 39
Aqua e Vino 46
Ariel 52
Asia to Go 42
Bagelmama 34
Balaton 37
BaniaLuka 48
Bar Smak 54
Baroque 39
Bombaj Tandoori 37
Burrito Buffet 53
Cafe Mynek 63
Ceska Chodba 34
City Lunch Cafe 55
COCA 42
Copernicus 40
Obrocw Krzya N-1
Orkana P/R-3
Padniewskiego, bp. M-4
Przyjani, al. N/O-2/3
Ptaszyckiego R/T-4/5
R, al. O-1/2
Rydza-migego, marsz.
M/P-1/2
Sieroszewskiego P/R-5
Solidarnoci, al. O/T-1/3
Stalowa O-1
Struga P-2
Tomickiego, bp. M-3/4
Ujastek T-1
Ujastek Mogilski T-2/4
Wakowicza S-1
Wwozowa S-1
Winiowy Sad M-2
Wojciechowskiego P-1
Zachemskiego P-4/5
Zuchw P-3/4
eromskiego O/P-1/2
Corleone 46
Cyrano de Bergerac 35
Da Pietro 46
Dawno Temu Na
Kazimierzu 52
Diego & Bohumil 35
Diego & Bohumil 52
Dominikaska 2 40
Dookoa wiata 42
Dynia Resto Bar 34
Dynia Resto Bar 40
Ekobistro Papuamu 63
Emocja 40
Europejska 34
Fabryka Pizzy 47
Farina 62
Galimatias 55
Genji Premium Sushi 51
Gospoda Koko 44
Grande Grill 32
Green Way 63
Hard Rock Cafe 32
Haweka 36
Haweka 55
Horai 34
Cherubino 46
Chimera 54
Chimera Salad Bar 42
Chopskie Jado 54
Il Calzone 47
Il Forno 47
Il Vizio 47
Indus Tandoor 37
InVito Pizza & Pasta 47
Irish Pub Nic Nowego 34
Jarema 55
Kawaleria Szara Smaku
55
Kiebasa z Rona 44
Klezmer Hois 52
Kogel Mogel 58
Kuchnia i Wino 40
La Campana Trattoria 49
La Fontaine 35
Leonardo 49
Mamma Mia 49
Manzana 53
Marcello 49
Marchewka z Groszkiem
58
Marmolada 49
Media Aetas U Mistrza
Jana 58
Metropolitan 34
Metropolitan 41
Milano Ristorante 50
Milk Bar 58
Mid i Wino 58
Mid Malina 59
Moaburger 32
Moment Resto 34
Momo 63
Morela 59
Morskie Oko 59
Musso Sushi 51
Nostalgia 59
Ogniem i Mieczem 59
Olive Tree 52
Pijalnia Wdki i Piwa 48
Pimiento 53
Pod Anioami 60
Pod Baranem 60
Pod R 41
Pod Wawelem 60
Polakowski 60
Portobello 50
Portofino 53
Restauracja Gessler we
Francuskim 36
Restauracja Gessler we
Francuskim 60
Restauracja Unicus 41
Rooster 32
Roti Roti 37
Russian Enso 35
Ssiedzi 61
Scandale Royal 41
Scandale Royal 44
Sioux Classic 32
Smak Ukraiski 63
WHERE TO STAY
RESTAURANTS
Nowa Huta Street Register
LISTINGS INDEX
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G No smoking
K Restaurant X Smoking room available
D Sauna C Swimming pool
E Live music W Wi-Fi
6 Animal friendl y S Take away
I Fireplace J Old Town location
Y Tourist Card accepted V Home delivery
Symbol Key
130
SomePlace Else 34
Studio Qulinarne 41
Sushisquare 51
Szara 34
Szara 42
Szara Kazimierz 42
Taco Mexicano El Pueblo
54
The Mexican 54
The Olive 42
The Piano Rouge 42
Trattoria Ritorno 50
Trattoria Soprano 50
Trezo 36
Trezo 61
Trufla 42
Trzy Papryczki 50
Trzy Rybki 42
U Babci Maliny 61
U Stasi 42
U Ziyada 61
Vanilla Sky 45
Vega 63
Warsztat 53
Wentzl Magda Gessler 62
Wesele 62
Wierzynek 62
Winoteka Winoman 36
Winoteka Winoman 45
Winiowy Sad 62
Yellow Dog 34
Zapiecek Ekspres 44
Zazie Bistro 35
Zen Restaurant & Sushi
Bar 51
Cafe Bistro Guliwer 64
Cafe Botanica 64
Cafe Sza 64
Camelot 64
Chocoffee 64
Europejska 64
Jama Michalika 64
Karma Organic Coffee 64
Massolit Books & Caf 64
Nowa Prowincja 65
Noworolski 65
Royal Art Cafe 65
Satori Cafe-Bistro 65
Ul Lala Cukiernia & Lunch
Time 65
Alchemia 74
Antycafe 66
Baccarat 71
Baroque 66
Baroque 71
BeerGallery - Kazimierz 74
Bomba 66
Budda Drink & Garden 66
Bull Pub 67
Bunkier Cafe 67
Caf Szaf 67
Cie 71
Coco Music Club 71
Diva Music Gallery 72
Dym 67
English Football Club 67
Eszeweria 74
Fashion Time 72
Frantic 72
Gorczka 72
Hard Rock Cafe 67
House Of Beer 68
Irish Mbassy 68
Irish Pub Nic Nowego 68
Kawiarnia Naukowa 74
Klub Pikarski Poker 68
Klub Re 68
Krlicze Oczy 74
Le Scandale 75
Les Couleurs 75
Literki 74
Miejsce 75
Migawka 75
Ministerstwo 72
Mleczarnia 75
Moment Resto 75
Night Club 66 73
Omerta 75
Opera Cafe Pub
Restaurant 69
Paparazzi 69
Pauza 69
Plaa Krakw 73
Pod Papugami Irish Pub 69
Poligamia 69
Pozytywka 74
Propaganda 75
QUBE 69
Rdza 73
Russian Enso 73
Shisha Club 73
Singer 75
SomePlace Else 70
Spoem 70
Stalowe Magnolie 73
Stary Port 70
wita Krowa 70
Taawa 74
Taboo Gentlemen's Club
73
Zaraz Wracam 75
Adult Entertainment 73
Barbican 87
Beer Gardens 66
Breakfast 34
Cloth Hall 83
Cracovia 113
Cracovian Cooking A-O 56
Cracovian Cooking P-Z 57
Currency Exchange 122
Dining At A Glance 32
Dragons Bones 91
Euro 2012 on the Bonia 112
Facts & Figures 16
Floriaska Street 81
Gift Shopping At a Glance 120
Guided Tours 80
Have Your Say 39
Krakw Historical Timeline 76
Krakow train station 13
Krakus Mound 97
Late Night Eats 44
Lunch 36
Main Market Square 82
Market Values 17
Memories of Lenin 101
Nightlife At A Glance 66
Out of Centre 86
Plac Nowy 93
Plac Wolnica 92
Polish Friends of Beer Party 38
Polish Name Days 45
Public Transport 15
Quick Eats 42
Rynek Underground 85
Salwator 8
Schindler's Factory 96
Sowacki Theatre 86
Smoking 30
Stained Glass in Krakow 88
The Hejna 77
The Legend of Wanda 101
The Nowa Huta Cross 100
The Obwarzanek 63
The Wawel Chakra 90
Tipping Tribulations 37
Wisa Krakow 112
Wisawa Szymborska 84
Zakski Przekski 48
Zbruch Idol 87
Features Index
LISTINGS INDEX
CAFS
NIGHTLIFE

Krakow

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