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1/8" = 0,125" = 0,31 cm = 3,1 mm 1/16" = 0,0625" = 0,158 cm = 1,58 mm 4mm/25,4 = 0,157" 3mm/25,4 = 0,118" 3,5mm/25,4 = 0,137" http://www.beadingdaily.com/forums/p/1571/8519.

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You can use any of those, but the toughest clear sealers/finishes for avoiding l ater scratching and cloudiness from humidity would be the polyurethanes (they co me in "indoor" versions, and "outdoor" or spar/marine versions). Some of those w ill also have UV resistance which will keep anything underneath from yellowing . Since you're using an air-dry material for the jewelry (paper), you'll also need to cover all the bits of the finished pieces (including down in holes, etc) tha t could ever come in contact with humidity or water *thoroughly* with the sealan t. There's a big difference though between water-resistance and waterproofness for sealers since many can work okay or brief exposures to water/humidity but not to long exposures or soaking. For example, clear embossing powders and acrylic gel mediums would be less water proof than just water-resistant, and/or also be more likely to crack later with stress and use which would allow humidity or actual water to get inside and soft en the interior. Epoxy resin would be quite waterproof but will also be more rigid so more cracka ble as above, etc., and unless coated with a polyurethane with UV protection wil l yellow over time with sun/etc or heat. Btw, you wouldn't need gloves and a mask for any of those clear coatings, but yo u would if you used a *polyester* resin. That type of resin isn't used for outer "coatings" though. So if by "paper beads" you mean rolled-paper beads, you could use the ModPodge ( or just thinned-down Elmers GlueAll which would create the same thing) as your a dhesive, or you could use anything sticky like a polyurethane** or an acrylic ge l medium, etc., etc. Then you could coat the finished items (thoroughly, and maybe in several coats o r dippings) with any of the above. But again, you'll want the toughest and most waterproof coating on the very top if you want them to last the longest and espe cially if you think they'll be soaked. ** In the polymer clay community, the clear polyurethane preferred by many claye rs is by Varathane (the gloss, indoor, version since it has extra-good propertie s...it's one that's also UV resistant). You can read more about Varathane and al l kinds of other clear sealers on this page at my site too, if you're interested ... my site is primarily about polymer clay, but the sealer possibilities are th e same: http://glassattic.com/polymer/finishes.h Actually though, polymer clay needs no sealing at all because it's a plastic.

Polymer clayers also make "roll-up beads btw, using triangles of thin polymer cl ay (no sealing required to be waterproof) so if you're interested in seeing thos e and lessons/etc, check out this page of my site: http://glassattic.com/polymer/beads.htm (go to the category called *Rolled Up & Croissant* which is just under the Molded & Stamped beads category) ...The long triangles of clay can be made from any color of clay, any pattern of clay, any thickness or size or triangle shape (for fewer or more revolutions, e tc), and perhaps be highlighted or completely covered with mica powders, etc., e tc. ...Then they're rolled up over toothpicks or any other rods just like paper roll up beads, but no adhesive required since raw clay sticks to raw clay, and baked. They're just twisted off of the rods after cooling. Here's one more that shows some solid blue clay roll-up beads that had been impr essed/stamped first, then just "highlighted" (before baking) with gold mica powd er: https://picasaweb.google.com/tiledtextur (...actually these look like they could be metallic wax like Rub N Buff instead, applied after baking, because of the duller color)