HRS Article: Caring for the Newborn Rabbit The following information is provided as a reference source in cases where

either wild or domestic baby bunnies are involved. The Third Edition of HOUSE RABBIT HANDBOOK was used in compiling some of this data. Wild Rabbits In most cases where individuals have found rabbit nests in their backyards, the nest HAS NOT BEEN abandoned by the doe. The mother returns to her nest once every 24 hours, normally in the middle of the night. The doe does not want to call attention to her nest, therefore you should not see her. If you have removed the babies from the nest, please return them. Their best change for survival is to be nursed by their natural mother. A false perception is one involving human scent on baby rabbits that have been handled. The doe will not abandon her babies because of human scent. If the nest is in an open area of the yard and subject to disturbances (by another pet, etc.), cordon off that area with garden fencing -- leaving sufficient space for the doe to go in and out of to feed her young. If it is grass cutting time, you will probably have to forgo cutting that portion for two weeks until the nest is vacated. Baby bunnies that have squirmed away from the nest are probably about 4 weeks of age. The doe will return at night to feed them. You can weigh them on a postal type scale -- if they are gaining weight, they are being fed. Another suggestion is to place a string over the nest at night -- if it has been disturbed the next day, you can be assured that the mother is nursing them. If you are positive the mother is dead, please read the next section. Domestic Rabbits Your female rabbit has become aggressive lately and has started to shred newspapers and pulling out her fur. This is a good indication that she is about to give birth within the next 48 hours. Dont panic. A nestbox will be needed, roughly 12 x 14 inches in diameter. You may use a cardboard box to serve as a nesting box. Punch some holes in the bottom for drainage and cut the front portion of the box to within 4 inches of the bottom. This allows the doe to easily move in and out of the box, and will prevent the newborns from falling out. Line the box with clean hay and/or shredded newspaper. Let the mother-to-be do the rest. If you find that she has had the babies outside the nest, carefully scoop them up in your hands (normally there will be a "well" of papers etc. that they are laying on and simply slip your hand underneath and place them in the "well" depression of hay in the box. Remember to place the fur in the nesting box (under and over them). As the babies may be in more than one location be sure to verify that you have moved all the babies to the nesting box. The mother rabbit should get extra pellets and fresh green vegetables high in vitamin A (kale, broccoli, spinach) to maintain her health and the babies while nursing. Keep the room temperature at 70 degrees. If necessary, attach a heating pad to one side of the nesting box. But remember, this area may overheat quickly, so monitor it closely. The babies normally bunch together for warmth -- either all together or in multiple groups. Within 24-48 hours of birth, you will know if they are being fed by the mother. If no noises are being emitted from the nesting box, mom is doing her job. If, however, you hear constant meowing (something like a kitten meow), the mother probably is not nursing and you must act.

Use a kitten feeding bottle. Slice off the thick rubber portion at the end of the nipple. Enlarge the size of the hole to allow a very fine spray to emerge when the bottle is squeezed (not tiny or big drops). Eye droppers are not recommended as they allow too much liquid for the babies to swallow, which can cause aspiration or pneumonia. Since babies lose their suckling instinct within roughly 48 hours, it is important to get them on a nursing bottle quickly. Canned kitten formula from a pet supply store should be used. Lactobacillus Acidophilus (from a human health food store) can be added to the formula. It will not hurt the babies and may help some of them. Feed daily total quantities in either two larger feedings or several smaller feedings: Newborn - 5 cc KMR formula and cc Acidophilus 1 week - 15 to 25 cc KMR formula and 1 cc Acidophilus 2 weeks - 25 to 27 cc KMR formula and 1 cc Acidophilus 3 to 4 weeks - 30 cc KMR and 2 cc Acidophilus Wash the babies faces and bottoms with warm water and cotton after each feeding to stimulate elimination. Babies can nibble on dry alfalfa or a few pellets as soon as they show an interest. Formula consumption levels off at about 4 weeks, but do not rush weaning. If you used a cardboard container as a nesting box, it will become soggy and soiled. Change the box as it becomes necessary. Frequently the babies start coming out of the nest within 2 - 3 weeks so be prepared for them to roam a little bit. If they are in a metal dog crate, make sure that the sides are blocked so that they do not get out of the crate. This is especially important if you have other pets in the household.

How to Care for Newborn Baby Rabbits WHERE TO PUT THE BABIES Make the babies a soft nest area in a box with clean towels. We like to put one folded towel on the bottom and another bunched on top of that, so the babies can snuggle into it. You can also purchase soft nesting wool from a pet store and put that on top of the towel. Cover the box with a towel so it is dark, making sure that there will be enough air so the babies do not suffocate. Leaving about a one inch gap at the top is usually sufficient. Keep the babies in an out-of-the way, QUIET area, such as an adult's bedroom. If the room temperature is between 68-72 degrees you will not need to provide extra heat, but if it's cooler than that you will need to provide extra warmth. Use a heating pad set on low and slip it under one half only of the bottom towel in the box. We do it this way so that the babies can move to a cooler area if it gets too warm. ALWAYS make sure that the heating pad is covered, as babies can burn themselves very badly on an exposed heating pad. If the babies were with their mamma, but she is not caring for them (and you are sure she is ignoring them) you will need to separate her from them, so they will not get hurt. If she has created a nest, use that material in the box that you have made to hold the babies. Rabbits nurse only ONE TIME a day, so if you think that she is not caring for them based only on the fact you don't see them feed...think again. But if you are sure she is neglecting them, if they are dehydrated, cold, obviously ignored, of course, something must be done!

WHAT TO FEED THE BABIES Baby rabbits should be fed Kitten Milk Replacer (KMR), which you can buy at pet stores, or sometimes even a local veterinarian's office. Because rabbit milk is the most caloric of all mammals, we add in one tablespoon of cream to each can of KMR. Unless you are familiar with and skilled at tube feeding babies, use an eye dropper or sterile oral syringe, which can be purchased at most pharmacies. Feed baby rabbits no more than twice a day. Baby rabbits normally feed only ONCE a day, but you're not mama and the KMR is not as caloric as rabbit milk---so if baby does not take in the total amount quoted below in one feeding, you may split the feedings in half, AM/PM but no more frequently as it can cause severe gastrointestinal distress. Overfeeding is a leading cause of death in infant [domestic] rabbits. If this is a wild rabbit, handle it ONLY during feedings and make sure to keep it in a quiet, safe, out-of-the-way area of your home, as excessive handling and human interaction can be extremely stressful and potentially fatal, and will lessen its chance or survival once released back into the wild. Following is a guideline for the daily amount to feed a domestic OR wild rabbit who will be approximately 5-6 pounds as an adult (average rabbit size). You can increase the amounts as needed for larger breeds. Remember, if the rabbit does not eat the full amount listed, feed the remainder later, but do not feed more than twice a day. For the BEST results, go to your local health food store (GNC has this) and get a bottle of ACIDOPHILUS. Ask for the capsules that have the "grainy stuff" inside (they are easier to mix than the powdery stuff) and add it to the KMR at each feeding. Using acidophilus in addition to KMR will GREATLY increase the baby rabbit's chance of survival, because it helps keep the bacterial balance in a baby's tummy adequate. Age Newborn 1 week 2 weeks 3 AND 4 weeks, until weaned (you may wean at 4 weeks of age) KMR 5 cc 10-15 cc 26-30 cc 30 cc Acidophilus 1 capsule = 1 cc 1/2 cc 1/2 cc 1 cc 1 cc

Baby rabbits feed from their mothers while lying on their backs. You may loosely wrap baby in a soft face cloth or hand towel and lay it on your lap or in the crook of your arm. If bunny will NOT eat this way, of course, do the best you can. It is ABSOLUTELY CRUCIAL to let the baby eat at it's own pace---especially if it is not suckling from you (i.e. if you are using a dropper or syringe to feed it...). If you squirt the liquid in too quickly you can aspirate (get liquid in) the lungs and the rabbit will suffocate. After each feeding it is important to make the bunny defecate and urinate to keep the intestinal tract and urinary system running smoothly. Use a soft cloth or a cotton ball moistened with warm water and gently stroke from between the bunny's front legs all the way down over the anal area until the bunny starts producing stool and urine, and keep stroking until the bunny stops. You are replicating the behavior of the mother rabbit who would lick her young to stimulate them to go to the bathroom (as well as to keep the nest clean). The stool will be soft and may be varying shades of green and yellow. Be sure to clean baby's mouth with a damp cloth or paper towel, so that no milk dries in the hair. Baby rabbit eyes open at about 10 days of age. You may start introducing them to hay and pellets at this point, but no veggies or fruits yet. Just leave some hay and pellets in a corner of the box where the babies can easily get to them. Make sure it the pellets are plain, high fiber and fresh, with no added goodies such as dried banana chips or

seeds. Don't ever leave a deep water dish in which a baby could drown; instead, use something shallow and rinse and fill it frequently. IF THESE ARE WILD RABBIT BABIES: Start giving them small amounts of pesticide-free greens and timothy or oat hay at this point (grass, dandelions, weeds, parsley...), but you do not need to introduce them to pellets, as the goal is to release them back into the wild where the food is not that high in protein. If they are eating pellets and then released into the wild, the change in diet could kill them. Again, it is critical that you handle wild babies only for feeding and cleaning, or for wound care as necessary. Keep them in a quiet area away from family goings-on. The goal is to keep them as wild as possible so that they will have a better chance when re-released. Wild rabbits do not make good pets. The do not become docile like their domesticated cousins and they will be happier in the wild, where they belong. It is illegal and cruel to keep a healthy wild animal as a pet. If you can find a wildlife rehabilitator in your are who will care for and release the babies, this is your best bet. Wild rabbits should be released as soon as they are eating hay and greens, are urinating, defecating and drinking well and are approximately 5 inches in body length. They will be small, but the longer you keep them, the more agitated and difficult to handle they will become and the less likely their chances for survival in the wild. Make sure to release them in a safe place, where no pesticides are used--and where they will not run out into a street! It is best to release them in the early morning so that they have the day to acclimate. Community parks are NOT the place to release ANY rabbit, let alone a wild one. Prior to the release date, try taking drives and/or walks in the dawn & dusk hours (rabbits are crepuscular) in rural and country-ish areas and find out where other wild rabbits live. We choose to release our babies very early in the morning (5AM) or lat in the afternoon (4-5PM) in order that they have some time to acclimate and find a place to hide. We always make sure to leave several days supply of hay and water, so the babies will not starve or dehydrate will acclimating to their surroundings. It is best to leave the hay and water right next to large bushes, so the rabbits will have some place to run into should a predator come along while they are eating/drinking. If you plan to keep this rabbit as a pet (as long as it is domestic), make sure that you have the time and really want a House Rabbit. They are wonderful, affectionate, playful pets than can be litter box trained like cats and live 8-13 years if altered and properly cared for. If you just want to let it live in the back yard or a cage - contact us for more information, and for help placing it. Rabbits should not live outside or in isolated cages. They are very social animals, love peopleCand the outside life is simply too dangerous (heat, cold, predators, bacteria) for a rabbit to live a long happy life.

10 Day Old Rabbit Opening Eyes For First Time

Bottle Feeding A Baby Rabbit

There's a problem, and you have a newborn kit to try and raise. What can and should you do?

Before you start, there are some facts to know. Kits chill very quickly and easily, so must be kept warm and dry. Kits have very little energy reserves and need to cat within an hour or so of birth, especially if they become chilled. The average temperature in the nest of healthy kits is considerably higher than human body temperature, so simply getting them 'body warmed' is not good enough for full recovery. Warmth may be provided in many ways; personally, if I have the time, I will take them and a hot water bottle into bed with me and a good book. The hot water bottle gives steady heat over a larger area than a heating pad; your presence will help encourage them to move about (especially if, like me, you keep poking them to see how they are doing!). Okay, the kit is warm, dry and starving. What next? First of all, you should try and get it nursing from mommy, if mommy is in any shape to do so--in other words, has milk, is not trying actively to kill the kits, and is healthy all round. If she fills the bill in these ways, there are a variety of methods one may use to get the kit's tummy full of good warm milk. Try it the 'natural way' first ... give the doe a good gentle belly rub while she sits on your lap. Massage the mammary tissue, which should feel slightly lumpy and softish, for as long as it takes for the doe to really relax. Make sure you don't stress her in the next step, or your work will be for nothingthat rubbing helps to stimulate native oxytocin production. Oxytocin is a hormone closely linked to kindling as well as to nursing, as after kindling is over, the oxytocin release helps the doe 'let down' her milk so that the kits can nurse. Prostaglandins, released by the doe under stress, counteract the action of oxytocin and prevent milk letdown, which is one reason you do not want to stress the doe who is to nurse the kits. Gently place her in the box after lifting the hair and hay aside from the kits. Block, gently but firmly, her attempts to leave the nest until one of two things occur. Most does will allow the kits to nurse with a lot of patience on your part. If, however, the kits are cold or becoming 'dumb' and not willing to seek a teat, proceed immediately to the next step. Warm the kits well, so that they have some energy, and let's get them eating. Their energy reserves run out very quickly! Some does will become very upset about these squirming, biting, hyperactive things under them and may stomp on and/or injure the kits in her efforts to leave the box. If this is the case, restrain her gently so that she cannot injure the kits with her struggles, and allow the kits access. Be sure to use as minimal restraint as possible, as again, we want to avoid major stress on the doe. If, however, this route is simply not practical and both you and the doe are becoming fed up with the whole process, remove her from the box once more. Allow her a few minutes to relax while you grab a chair for the next step. Two people may be required, one to restrain the doe, and the other to put the kits on and massage the milkbar.

Place the nestbox next to the chair, or next to the person who will be handling them. The person elected to handle the doe should be the most competent handler available to you in order, again, to minimize stress on the doe. Care should be taken to avoid heatstress or heatstroke in the doe during extreme stress or hot weather. The handler will flip the doe over and position her between their knees as for nail clipping or grooming. The head and hind feet should be firmly, thoroughly, but gently restrained to disallow what I call 'punting'...which is when an annoyed doe gives you flying kits instead of suckling kits! The two person version is highly recommended for this reason . Once the doe has relaxed and resigned herself to this new indignity, the kit handler may begin. He/she should take one kit at a time and help it to locate and latch onto a nipple, then gently massage the area around the teat to stimulate milk letdown. As the kits become more energetic and confident in their ability to cain sustenance, the handler may increase the number of kits they place at one time. More than three isn't really recommended, since should momma decide to punt, you only have two hands ..... If even this method, which has saved many kits for me, does not produce filled tummies, it's time to take a more direct hand. You can milk out the doe if you have no formula, but this is tedious and often injurious to the mammary tissue, which may provoke mastitis. Don't hesitate to milk her out, though, if it means the kits will eat sooner! Every little bit and every second counts. All right ... what if the doe died in kindling, has no milk, or something else is wrong that will not allow nursing from even a foster doe? I like to keep powdered milk formula (I use a product called LactoPet) on hand at all times, just in case I need it. If at all possible, I prefer to foster. If the kits have become very chilled, I will feed them before trying to get them to nurse anyone. To feed a newborn kit, you will need a small syringe with no needle and a small opening. A new 1 or 3 cc syringe is ideal. Regardless of the fact that kits 'in the wild' or in the nestbox nurse upside down, the hand fed kit should never ever be held upside down, human baby fashion, to eat! The kit will aspirate, or breathe in, some of the milk formula or fluids you are giving, which can lead to pneumonia and death. Tubefeeding is not recommended for even the experienced raiser--at least not without some lessons from someone very competent at the procedure! Feed the kit very small drops, just touched to the lips. The kit should lick and smack its mouth. Be prepared for the kit to 'pop' when its mouth is touched--sometimes they jump and squirt away like a bar of wet soap. Have also a paper towel or absorbent cloth at hand to mop any extra milk or fluid that runs up into the nostrils. Blot often!

Feed the kit very small amounts until it gets the taste of what you are giving. At this point they will often demand more ... and that's your cue to be mean and nasty ... don't give it to them! Keep the small amounts going as long as the kit will take them ... then give it a break of fifteen minutes to half an hour and do some more. When the belly is tense, they've had enough until they urinate..... or until the tenseness vanishes and they are showing signs of hunger again. Since most nursing formulas are lower in nutrient content than doe milk, it is important to keep the kit full and well-hydrated. The formula may even be cut with more water than recommended, or even with a simple electrolyte solution like Pedialyte. Dehydration in the kit is common and can be very rapid. Skin which has pleats that will not 'snap' back to their normal position is your primary indicator that the kit is losing more fluid than you are getting into it. If you see badly dehydrated kits in the nestbox, remove them, give them a 'booster' of electrolytes--a bellyfull will help--and check your doe. The condition of the kits may be your first indicator of trouble. Kits in very poor condition or on a doe which shows illness may have to be removed and bottlefed. As time goes on, the kit will require larger amounts of formula per feeding. Again, through all of this, it is most important to keep the kits quite warm and toasty, as they cannot maintain their body temperature without help. In the nest, this is done by the combined waste heat of the kits held in by a good insulation of nesting material and fur; once out of the nest, it's up to you. It is true that does normally nurse only once a day, but this varies from doe to doe. When you are bottlefeeding, all bets are off. The feeding clock runs by the kit's demands. Average when I bottlefeed is twice an hour for the first few hours; then every couple of hours for anywhere up to eight to ten days, gradually working up to four times daily as they get older. A handy trick I have found to use when they are old enough to stagger reliably around the cage (on towels, of course) is to fill a small standard water bottle about 1/2 way with diluted formula. At about fourteen to eighteen days they will learn to use this to satisfy their hunger through the day-which is an incredible relief for the nurse! If you do use this route, antibiotics should be put into the milk (usually a sulfa drug, never tetracycline) to minimize bacterial growth and also to help the kit's gut flora gain its adult balance, which may also be aided by putting a few fecal pellets from a healthy doe in the kit's area for them to nibble. Through this whole growing procedure, the formula must be cared for welldo not allow it to become old--change the water bottle three times daily; don't mix more than you will use within 8-12 hours; and bleach or otherwise disinfect all feeding tools..... just as you would a sensitive human baby.

Milk is the best possible breeding ground for bacteria, and the kit is not equipped to repel invaders until much later in life. Using a new syringe each day is an excellent way to minimize contamination. The kits will usually urinate and defecate on their own, especially if they have nest mates. The normal kicking and shoving that goes on is sufficient to stimulate these actions if there is no doe to instigate it. If you raise only one kit, poke, prod, and 'groom' gently with the tip of a finger over the entire body. If a foster doe becomes available during the raising of a bottlefed kit, with a litter of suitable age and size (smaller than the bottle kit is preferable), use her! There is nothing quite like mother's milk in the raising of kits. If you do have a foster doe, it is advisable to bring the kit inside in cold weather and at night or allow it to suckle only under supervision. It's sad to see a kit you have worked so hard on die from hanging onto a nipple too long and being dragged out of the box. At about two to three weeks of age, the kit begins to nibble and use its teeth on anything that catches its fancy. This is the time to begin supplying solid foods.

Acceptable solid foods are fresh parsley, rolled oats, crimped oats, grass or oat hay, rabbit pellets, the formula and nothing more. An overabundance of'feeds may cause major gastrointestinal disturbance which can result in death very rapidly. The kit will pick and choose its own diet from these; a kit which is reluctant to eat the pellets should be given only parsley, hay and pellets until they accept the inevitability of pellethood through their life. Some human soy-based milk replacers, although useful if nothing else is available, will result in the kit going utterly bald and being potbellied from three to about six or eight weeks of age. The use of parsley or avian liquid vitamins in the formula seems to counteract this tendency, but these formulae should be avoided if any other substitute is available. In the sidebar at right is a list of formulae and sources of acceptable formulae, in approximate order of usefulness. I hope this article helps those of you who, for whatever reason, wind up bottlefeeding a rabbit kit! PS ... works for cottontails, too; but remember most are illegal to possess .... PA Formulae for Rabbit Kits In approximate order of acceptability and success rate, the following formulae may be used in the raising of rabbit kits.

Fresh doe's milk--nurse the doe out into a very small container; feed fresh and collect often. Fresh goat's milk--frozen whole milk may be used; must be pasteurized.. Use as a sole formula. Powdered pet milks: (most powders may be frozen until needed) Lacto-Pet: formerly VetALac, an excellent substitute for doe's milk; mix in a bottle with hot water and shake very well. One heaping tablespoon to the ounce. VetALac Puppy or Kitten: either will do, although not as well as the LactoPet. Mix as directed; watch kit hydration closely. Again, hot water and shake very well. Esbilac Pet Formulas: not tried by the author; good results reported with puppy formula. KMR Liquid or Powder: A product with variable reports of success; author has had very poor results. Liquid very perishable and both forms quite expensive. First Born or other puppy and kitten formulas: Again, variable reports of success and failure. Not tried by the author. Soyalac, Liquid or Powder for humans: Good emergency formula since most stores which are open late at night and on weekends will have this or a similar product. Variable results; does not seem to be sufficiently balanced for long term use. Mix as directed. Lacto-Pet was available through BENEPET Pet Care Products, PO. Box 8111 St. Joseph, Missouri 64508; this is really the most successful of the products the author has tried, bar doe's milk. Sadly, this product is no longer available. The VetALac Puppy formula is closest in composition. Introduction
Many people mean well when they contact HRS after discovering an "abandoned" nest of wild rabbits. Often they wish to "rehabilitate" them with some advice from others. The reality is fewer than 10% of orphaned rabbits survive a week, and the care that people attempt to provide can be illegal, unnecessary, and potentially harmful. The best thing you can do is put the bunny right back where you found him, in the general area, as the Mom will only come back at night to call and find him. Leave the area. If injured, please contact a Wildlife Rehabilitator or rabbit vet immediately.

I/My Dog/My Cat Found a Rabbit Nest! What Do I Do?

Rabbits hide their nests in plain view, often putting them in the open; for example, in the middle of the lawn, as well as in brush piles and long grass. If you find a nest that has been disturbed, do all you can to restore and protect it rather than bring the infants inside. If a dog has discovered the nest, keep your dog away from the area and reconstruct the nest with grasses. If need be, you can move the nest a few feet away where safer.

Rabbit mothers nurse their babies for approximately 5 minutes a day. They will be in the nest or nest box early in the morning and then again in the evening. The milk is very rich and the babies "fill up" to capacity within minutes. Mother rabbits do not "sit" on the babies to keep them warm as do some mammals and birds. They build a nest with fur and grasses which helps to keep the babies warm in between feedings. Do not force a mother rabbit to sit in the nest box. You can pick up the babies and see if they are feeding by checking the size of their stomachs (should not be sunken in), the pinkness of their skin and activity level (they should not be blue in color or sluggish in movement) and the amount of time that you hear them crying (baby bunnies should be quiet most of the day....if they are crying constantly then they are not getting fed). If you come across a nest of bunnies in the wild and the mother is no where to be seen, please DO NOT disturb them...this is normal. By removing them from the nest you are greatly reducing their chances of survival. If your dog disturbs a nest or you find a wild bunny with its eyes open, please put him back if not injured. Mom will be coming back at night to call and feed him only once in the middle of the night. Do not take the bunny inside or feed him. That is the mom's job. IT IS A MATTER OF HIS/HER SURVIVAL AND UP TO US AS HUMANS TO LEAVE NATURE BE AND LET THE MOM CARE FOR HER YOUNG. We often hear of mothers moving their babies and their nests, and have seen moms come back every night for up to a week to look for her missing baby. Do not take the baby from the mom or she will be frantic.

I/My Dog/My Cat Destroyed a Rabbit Nest! What Do I Do?

Remake the nest as best you can with grasses, hay, straw in the same place. Nests can be moved to a safer place up to 10' away from the original site and can be reconstructed if necessary. To make a new nest, dig a shallow hole about 3" deep and put into it as much of the original material as you can recover, including the mother's fur. Add dried grass as needed, and put the young back. Mother rabbits return to the nest to nurse only at night, staying away as much as possible so as not to attract predators. To determine if the mother is returning, create a tic-tac-toe pattern over the nest with straw, grasses or tiny twigs. Wait 24 hours to see if the twigs have been disturbed. She may be able to feed them without moving the twigs much, so double check--If the babies look healthy, are warm, then the mother is coming back. If they are cold, dehydrated, get them to a professional; do not care for them yourself. Please contact a Wildlife Rehabilitator or rabbit vet immediately.

How Do I Know If the Baby Bunnies Need Help?

Very young wild baby bunnies with eyes closed and ears back rarely survive in captivity, even given the most expert human care; and so it is very important to determine whether they really need help. Try to assess whether the infants seem warm and healthy or cold, thin, and dehydrated. One test for dehydration is to gently pinch the loose skin at the back of the neck. If it stays in a "tent," or does not spring back in one second, the bunny is SEVERELY dehydrated and needs rehabilitation IMMEDIATELY by a professional rabbit vet or rehabber. Another test is to stroke the genital area to stimulate elimination. If the pee is brown and gritty, the mother rabbit has not been there to help the bunnies urinate. The brown, gritty urine is toxic, and the infant bunny must be cared for by a professional. Please contact a Wildlife Rehabilitator or rabbit vet immediately. Older baby bunnies who are found outside of the nest may not be orphaned or in need of assistance. Baby cottontails are born without fur but develop a full coat in a week. Their eyes open in 10 days, and in three to four weeks they are weaned. At this age, they may explore the world outside of the nest but return there to sleep. They are not ignored by the mother but stay with the family group until four or five weeks of age. To determine whether a bunny of this age needs assistance, perform the dehydration test. Also look for bleeding, convulsing, fly larvae, broken limbs; if any, get to a rabbit vet or emergency vet immediately. If he is just out and about, leave him be. He is discovering his world, waiting for mom to return at night when we humans are asleep.

What If the Baby Bunny Is Injured?

Either call or take him to your local humane society or animal shelter/animal control. Call first as often they will come pick up the baby. If they don't have a wildlife center, they will refer you. If after hours, contact a local emergency rabbit vet or Rabbit Veterinarian. The best thing you can do for an injured wild baby bunny is to get in touch with a skilled rehabilitator. Great info on local rehabilitators can be found here or here

Is there anything I can do to avoid orphaning baby bunnies?

The harsh reality is that many of us who care about wild baby bunnies may be contributing to the suffering and death. House cats who roam outside will kill about every other time they go out. And unlike feral cats who hunt because they are hungry, and kill immediately, house cats maul and torment their prey, sometimes skinning baby bunnies alive. Cat owners need to provide managed outdoor habitats for their cats - such as windowboxes or pens. Providing a bell on your cat will help warn the wildlife if you cannot keep him inside. Lawn chemicals can produce convulsing death in baby rabbits. According to the Poison Control Center for Animals, lawn applications that contain herbicides are not directly toxic to small animals; but they may make toxic plants more palatable to them and may make the animals sick for a few days. Products which contain insecticides, such as Dursban or Diazinion, which are added to many lawn products to control fleas or grubs in the lawn, are toxic.

The Bunny is Wild and Really Orphaned - How do I care for it?
Again, make sure you KNOW for sure the mom was killed and the bunnies are abandoned (not warm, etc). You will not see the mom. The mom will only come back in the middle of the night to feed her babies. If the mom was killed, the best thing you can do for a wild orphaned baby bunny is to get in touch with a skilled rehabilitator. In the

The Bunny is Domestic (NOT WILD) and Really Orphaned - How do I care for it?
Remember the domestic/wild bunny mom only feeds her young usually once in the middle of the night. Don't assume she is not caring for them if you don't see her nurse them. Check their tummies to see if they are round and the babies are warm in the morning--this means she is caring for them. In the rare situation that you have an orphaned domestic bunny, such as when a domestic rabbit mom is sick or refuses to care for her young, you will need to feed the babies. Overfeeding is a leading cause of death in these youngsters which results in fatal intestinal disease. Use Meyenberg Regular Goat milk (found at Safeway in the milk section or Whole Foods) or KMR KITTEN powder formula + follow directions on the can. (KMR better for domestics). It may be easiest to start with a 3 cc/ml syringe or an eyedropper. Some use pet nurser nipples on the end of a luer lock syringe, or a teat cannula on the end of a syringe. Feed only with the bunny sitting UPRIGHT, and point syringe down towards bottom or side of mouth, so if too much comes out, the baby does not aspirate! For those who are slow to learn nursing, SC fluids may be necessary to prevent electrolyte imbalance or dehydration (check with a vet on this only!!). Domestic buns with closed eyes should be fed 2 x a day, and the number of feedings gradually decreased until they are weaned. If their eyes are still closed,

you need to stimulate their bottoms with a warm moist towel after feedings to help them to pee. (Domestics are weaned about 6 weeks; wild bunnies are weaned about 3-4 weeks for cottontails and 9 weeks for jacks). Bloat is commonly associated with too frequent feedings and too much at one time. For WILD rabbits, do not feed at home, but get them to a professional rehabber. This is CRITICAL for their survival as they are not like domestics. See contacts under wild orphans.

Provide a soft nest area in a box with clean towels, and cover the babies so it is dark until their eyes are open. Do NOT provide extra heat if the room temperature is at least 65 to 70 degrees F because excessive heat can be fatal. If the room is cooler, then you may place a heating pad on a low setting under no more than HALF of the nest so the bunny can move to a cooler area if it gets too warm. If this is a wild rabbit, handle it ONLY when during feedings as excessive handling can be extremely stressful and potentially fatal. Wild rabbits usually don't need heat if furred and healthy. You can use Regular Goat Milk found in the carton at your local grocery store.You can also use KMR (Kitten Milk Replacer) available at most pet stores for the handfeeding formula. Avoid ANY regular milk, puppy formulas, etc.

How much formula should I feed?

The following is a guideline for the daily amount to feed a TRULY orphaned bunny (mother was killed, etc.) Remember with wild bunnies, the mom only comes back at night to call and feed him; please put him back for her if just found and healthy. With domestics, the mom only feeds once or twice a day for only 5 minutes. Leave babies with the mom. For wild true orphans, see contacts for wildlife rehabbers under wild orphans. Feeding of True Orphans Age + Amount (This WILL vary depending on type of rabbit. It is impossible over the Internet to see your particular rabbit, so this is only approximate.) Use KMR kitten or KMR kitten plus Goat milk, regular not low fat. Add a pinch of acidophilus (aka Probiotic) to the formula to promote healthy gut flora. Formulas vary depending on region. Avoid Esbilac. FEED TWICE A DAY ONLY. Newborn to One Week: 2 - 2+1/2 cc/ml each feeding (two feedings per day). 1-2 weeks: 5-7 cc/ml each feeding (two feedings per day). (depending on bunny..may be much LESS if smaller rabbit!) Newborn babies (if eyes closed) all need to be stimulated to urinate and defecate prior to or following feeding until their eyes open. (Except Jackrabbits do not). *See how to below. 2-3 weeks: 7-13 cc/ml each feeding (two feedings). Domestic eyes open at about 10 days of age. Start introducing them to timothy and oat hay, pellets and water (always add fresh greens for wild ones). 3-6 weeks: 13-15 cc/ml each feeding (two feedings--again, may be LESS depending on size of rabbit! A cottontail will take so much less!! Half this at most.) Domestics are weaned about 6 weeks. Cottontails wean and release about 3-4 weeks and jackrabbits much later (9+ weeks). Wild rabbits NEED a skilled wildlife rehabber. For domestic rabbits, if you have a healthy adult rabbit at home and you can collect cecotropes (the soft, chain-like droppings that the rabbit usually eats) then these can be mixed with the KMR to give the baby bunny normal bacteria for its intestinal tract. Only one cecotrope per day for 4-5 days is needed. This is particularly important for rabbits under one week of age. Also good is to sprinkle acidophilus powder, also called "Probiotic" from human capsules in the milk a little each time for healthy flora for both wild and domestic bunnies.

*After each feeding it is important to make the bunny defecate and urinate to keep the intestinal tract and urinary system running smoothly (only UNTIL their eyes are open). No need to do this for jackrabbits; they go on their own. Use a cotton ball moistened with warm water and gently stroke the anal area until the bunny starts producing stool and urine and keep stroking until the bunny stops. You are reproducing the behavior of the mother rabbit who would lick her young to stimulate them to go to the bathroom and to keep the nest clean. As soon as their eyes are open, you may introduce the bunnies to plain alfalfa pellets, hay, such as oat hay, timothy, alfalfa, and for wild rabbits, in addition, add dark leafy veggies such as carrot tops, parsley, dandelion greens, etc. Dandelion greens and hay (timothy and oat hay) are extremely important for wild rabbits. You can add whole oats and oat groats from a feed store, and some grated carrots (about a tablespoon). The greens must be fresh, rinsed, and replaced if not eaten in a few hours or they dry out and get stale. You can place them in a cup of cold water with just the tops sticking out to keep them fresher for older rabbits. If this is a wild rabbit, you do not need to introduce pellets. If this is a domestic rabbit baby, then you may introduce plain pellets at 2 weeks of age (please refer to the handout Care of Rabbits for more information on diet). Wild rabbits should be released as soon as they are eating hay and greens and are approximately 5 inches in body length (cottontails) and run from you. They will be small, but the longer you keep them, the more agitated and difficult to handle they will become and the less likely their chances for survival in the wild. Release ONLY at dusk or dawn. Jackrabbits will be much larger and are released after 9 weeks when ready. Make sure they get exercise daily. The exception is the length/age rule is the jackrabbit. They are best released around 9 weeks of age, as they mature much slower than the brush/cottontails and need to develop strength. If they are ready, earlier, they will let you know. WARNING: Jackrabbits really NEED a skilled wildlife rehabber as they can run from you, throw themselves into walls to get away; many have died or severely injured themselves in captivity as they are so very wild. Please DO NOT raise them if you are not a skilled wildlife rehabber. This is vital. Noises and sounds easily frighten the jackrabbit and they are not able to be handled after 9 weeks. Jackrabbits really enjoy being raised together, whereas cottontails/brush bunnies may fight and do fine alone. Give them a carrier as their place of privacy (line with thick towels) with plenty of fresh hay, dandelion greens, carrot tops, parsley, wild grasses, and some whole oats. Brush bunnies/cottontails wean themselves pretty early after a few weeks. Jackrabbits continue on formula much longer, and most are weaned about 9 weeks. Replace the formula with about two teaspoons only of cut-up banana or apple and some whole oats for weaning. Again, wild rabbits need a skilled wildlife rehabber as it is critical to their survival. Sources: Caring for Cricket - What Not To Do When You Find a Wild Baby Bunny by Julie Smith and Handout by Midwest Exotic Animal Hospital, and additional wild bunny info by M. Wilson (HRS educator and rehabber).

Care and Feeding of Orphaned Domestic Rabbits by Dana Krempels, Ph.D. University of Miami Biology Department

The following information is for DOMESTIC RABBITS ONLY. If you are concerned about apparently orphaned wild rabbits, please link to this site on wild baby cottontails, which are completely different in their needs.

Before you take the baby domestic rabbits into your care and attempt to bottle feed them, please consider... Unless the mother rabbit is known to be dead, there is a good chance that she is feeding her babies, even if she seems to be ignoring them. A mother rabbit does not constantly tend to her babies the way a mother carnivore does. Rabbit mamas feed their babies only twice per day, and then leave them alone. This is normal and natural: in the wild, a mother rabbit not in the process of feeding her offpsring stays as far away from the nest as possible to avoid attracting predators to her babies. If mama rabbit seems to be "ignoring" her litter, check their condition before you interfere. If the babies' tummies are round and full-looking (you sometimes can see a whitish patch where the milk-filled stomach shows through the thin skin of the belly), they are warm, their skin is a healthy, dark pink, and not overly wrinkled, and they are sleeping calmly in the nest, then mama is feeding them. If the babies are very wrinkled, cold, bluish in color, have shrunken bellies, and perhaps are even crawling around looking for mama (instead of nest-sleeping, as a well-fed baby should), then you may have to intervene. Before handling the babies, wash your hands well with disinfectant soap and hot water. Your hands are covered with bacteria, no matter how clean they may seem, and these can be dangerous to babies whose immune systems are not yet mature enough to control bacterial growth, should harmful microbes be ingested. Once they're clean, rub your hands in a bit of clean, fresh hay and on mama's fur to scent your hands. If the mama bunny is healthy and active, put the babies in a secure nest box in a place easily accessible to her. The box should be shallow and long enough for mama to jump in without stomping on her babies, but too tall for the babies to accidentally crawl out. Line the bottom of the box with a soft towel (no loose strings or holes! These can tangle around tiny necks or limbs and cause lifethreatening injury or death!). Place a thick (3") layer of soft, grass hay or straw on top of the towel, and make a small "well" in the hay. If the mama has already built a nest of her fur, place the fur in the "well" and gently transfer the babies into the nest. If she did not pluck any fur for a nest, and if she is calm, you may be able to gently clip some away from her chest (Not too much! A handful is fine.) and line the well of the straw nest with it. Before you handle the nest and babies, love and stroke mama rabbit to calm her. She is unlikely to be disturbed by your activities if she is loved, and trusts you. Make sure mama sees the babies in the nest and can easily join them. Place the box and mama in a quiet, private place (a clean, disinfected bathroom with a baby gate in the doorway is a good choice) and let her get acquainted with her surroundings and her family's location. If the mama has been separated from the babies for more than 24 hours, and refuses to feed them, you can try to gently, but firmly hold her over the babies until they can get a meal. Stroke the mama, talk to her gently and love her, making her feel secure. After the first feeding, you probably won't have to do this again. She will take care of the babies on her own.

If the mother rabbit is very ill, dead, or exhibiting aggression towards her babies, you may have to remove them and feed them without her help. Before you take on this formidable task, consider the following:

Did the babies get any mother's milk? If not, you'll have to provide the babies with a special, immunoglobin-rich substance called colostrum. For the first few days of lactation, a mother mammal produces colostrum, which contains antibodies that help destroy foreign bacteria. Without a colostrum "starter", the babies have a lower chance of survival.

If the babies really are orphans or have been abandoned by their mother, here's a protocol that's been successful for us. 1. Keep the babies in a warm (about 75o - 78o Farenheit), quiet place in a nest similar to the one described above. (Bunny fur is the best lining, but clean cotton wadding will do as a substitute. Just be sure the babies do not get tangled in it.) DO NOT use an electric heating pad. Two or more babies usually are able to snuggle and keep each other warm if they have a good, padded nest. If there's only one baby, a warm water bottle wrapped in a soft towel can provide an excellent artificial heat source, but be sure the baby can crawl away from the bottle if it feels too warm. 2. The nest box should be at ground level, in a room where small children and pets are not allowed (at least until the babies are eating solid food and out of the nest). For the first few days, keep the room relatively dimly lit and quiet.
Feeding the Babies

Formula and feeding supplies You will need:

plastic sterilizing steam bag (available at most pharmacies, these are used by women to disinfect breast pumps and other nursing materials) very small nursing nipples There are many different types, and unfortunately few pet supply stores carry the smallest nipples that are best for baby rabbits. If your local pet supply store doesn't carry nipples suitable for baby squirrels and rabbits, then the ones for kittens are the next best thing.

nursing bottle or syringes The type of bottle or syringe you buy will depend on the nipples available in your store. They usually are paired. A variety of feeding supplies are available online from The Squirrel Store. Order them while you use the kitten supplies locally available, and you'll have better nipples and syringes in a few days.

Formula recipe o fresh, whole goat milk - 1/2 cup o KMR (Kitten Milk Replacer by PetAg) - 1/2 cup o lyophilized (freeze dried) colostrum - contents of 10 capsules, or 11.5 Tablespoons This is available at most high-quality health food stores, either in bulk powder form, or in capsules. It's expensive, but will give the babies their best head start.
o

heavy cream - 3 cc (a cc is the same as one ml, or milliliter), equal to about 1/2 teaspoon

Mix ingredients together in a lidded container, and shake very well until colostrum is dissolved. It's best to mix this a few hours in advance so that the colostrum has time to soften and suspend easily. Heat the formula to about 105o Farenheit (you can gauge this with a common, quick-read plastic rectal thermometer (unused, or fully sterilized!) from any pharmacy.) and keep it warm in a water bath while you feed the babies. They are generally more eager to accept warm formula.

Feeding Procedure The most important thing to avoid is aspiration (inhalation) of formula by the babies. The smallest drop of formula in the lungs can cause fatal pneumonia within a few hours.

1. Steam disinfect all syringes, bottles, and nipples as per instructions on the disinfecting bag. 2. Sit or lie on the floor to feed the bunnies, using a towel as a lap cushion for the baby being fed. Baby rabbits are wiggly, and unpredictable. They jump suddenly and unexpectedly, and you must be on the floor so that they don't hurl themselves off a chair or table and injure themselves. A drop of only one or two feet can be fatal, especially if the baby has a stomach full of milk. 3. Hold the baby horizontal in one hand, and the bottle/syringe in the other. If you wrap the bottle in a washcloth or cotton pad, allowing a fold to drape over your hand with the nipple protruding, the baby will be able to "paddle" with his front feet, as he would his own mother's breast. 4. Babies often resist feeding at first, and you must overcome the temptation to force feed. If the baby spits out the nipple, then simply wet the baby's lips with a drop of warm formula so he'll lick it off. Once he's swallowed that, repeat the procedure over and over. Be persistent and gentle. If you can keep him hydrated and fed--even against his will--for a few feedings, more often than not, the baby will start to lap or sip at the

drops you provide, though he may not do this on the first feeding. (If you're lucky, the baby will quickly learn the Turbo Sucktm : this can empty 15 cc's of formula in as little as 9 seconds!) 5. DO NOT SQUEEZE TOO MUCH FORMULA INTO THE BABY'S MOUTH! It's better to err on the side of caution than to have the baby inhale milk! 6. Baby rabbits may lose the suckling reflex in only a day or two. If the baby grabs the nipple and begins suckling, allow him to do so without adding any pressure yourself. DO NOT squeeze the nursing bottle or put pressure on the syringe plunger. The baby should be able to suckle with enough strength to empty the bottle or syringe (as long as the plunger is adequately lubricated in advance with a bit of pediatric simethicone suspension) without any help from you. If you provide extra force, the baby may accidentally aspirate formula that's coming in too fast! 7. If the babies do not suckle, it's not a major problem. Most will learn to lap/sip from the tip of the nipple, and this is actually safer, in terms of reducing the risk of aspiration. Try to hold the nipple sideways or downpointed, relative to the mouth, to further reduce the risk of aspiration. 8. IN CASE OF ACCIDENTAL ASPIRATION. We hope this doesn't happen, but if the baby does aspirate formula, it can completely block the airway and cause the baby to pass out. This does not have to be a death sentence, but the following "Bunny Heimlich" maneuver is the only hope of saving the little one. And it's scary.
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hold the baby very firmly between your palms, one on each side of the rabbit stabilizing the back and neck firmly so they do not move at all, raise the baby above your head, so his nose is pointing skywards. with a firm, downward motion (not too fast!), swing the baby downwards towards your feet, (being very careful not to come too close to the floor!) repeat the procedure two or three times, as necessary. The weight of the baby's internal organs pressing against the diaphragm when you swing downwards ususally provides enough pressure to expel air from the lungs, as well as the drop of milk blocking the airway. Once you feel the baby begin to move, STOP THE MANEUVER IMMEDIATELY. Consult with your veterinarian about whether or not to place the baby on prophylactic antibiotics to prevent aspiration pneumonia.

9. Until they open their eyes (at about the age of 10-12 days), handle the babies as little as possible when you're not feeding/grooming.

How much to feed? The following information on feeding quantities are from the House Rabbit Society FAQ on Feeding Orphaned Baby Rabbits, which is an excellent source of additional information on this topic.

Newborn to One Week: two - two and a half cc/ml each feeding (two feedings per day). NOTE: Many newborn mammals cannot urinate/defecate on their own. The baby bunnies will require the stimulation of the mother's grooming tongue on their bellies and ano-genital region in order to release a stream of urine and those pinhead-sized poops. Fortunately, you do not have to use your tongue. Use a cottonball (or even a very clean and disinfected fingertip) moistened with warm water, and gently tap/rub the urogenital area until you feel the baby's abdominal muscles tense and get that rewarding stream of warm pee! (Now you see why we suggest you use a towel on your lap.) Getting a urination response may take 15-20 seconds of stimulation, or even more. Many sources recommend doing this before feeding, and if it works--fine. However, sometimes the stimulus of a full stomach makes this easier. If the baby will not urinate before feeding, try again after feeding, and you will likely get a good response. Failure to stimulate the babies to urinate/defecate can in the death of the baby (the bladder can actually rupture if it is not stimulated to empty!), so be sure you do this procedure diligently, gently, and patiently! It may take a couple of weeks before the babies are able to urinate and defecate on their own. Watch for signs of redness/irritation around the anus and uretrhal opening, which indicate you are stimulating too vigorously. Back off on the pressure, and apply a bit of soothing calendula ointment (available at health food stores) to heal the irritation. If the feces come out liquid or "smeary", it's a sign of potentially serious trouble. Consult your rabbit-experienced veterinarian at the first sign of diarrhea, as this can be fatal in only a few hours in a baby rabbit. One to two weeks: 5-7 cc/ml each feeding (two feedings per day). The amount will depending on bunny, and may be much LESS if the baby is small. NOTE: Do not allow a baby rabbit overfeed at one sitting! Once a baby learns the Turbo Suck (tm), he can suckle so quickly that it's possible for him to ingest a volume too great for his little tummy. Although it's unlikely for the stomach to rupture, stretching it too taut can cause pain, gas, and make the baby sick. It is better to underfeed slightly than overfeed. If in doubt, let the baby rest for about a minute after feeding, then offer the nipple again. This gives time for the stretch receptors to respond and let the baby know he's really full.

 Two to three weeks: 7-13 cc/ml each feeding (two feedings). Domestic rabbits' eyes open at about 10 days of age. Start introducing them to timothy and oat hay, pellets and water in a shallow dish. Three to six weeks: 13-15 cc/ml each feeding (two feedings) As always, quantity may be LESS depending on the size of the rabbit. NOTE: At the age of about three weeks, babies will begin to experiment with solid food. Not only is it important to continue enriching the formula with colostrum, but at this stage it is time to inoculate them with normal rabbit bacterial flora from a healthy, parasite-free adult rabbit. Start to scout for a potential cecotrope donor when you first take the babies into your care. When they're about 2.5 - 3 weeks old, obtain a fresh cecotrope and mix it into a small quantity of formula. You will probably have to feed this as if it were medicine, as most babies do NOT enjoy this "special" formula. But it will help to establish their normal flora at a time when the stomach pH is likely not to interfere with proper colonization of healthy bacterial flora farther down the intestinal tract. Inoculation for 2-3 days in a row seems to be sufficient for establishment of normal flora.

Weaning

A domestic rabbit feeds her babies for about 8 weeks, gradually decreasing the frequency of feedings until they lose interest. Your baby bunnies will start to nibble on pellets and solid food at about the age of two to three weeks, but this does NOT mean they are ready to be weaned. In fact, it's even more important that you continue feeding colostrum-enhanced formula to help control the growth of potentially harmful pathogens as the babies introduce new bacteria into their systems. If the babies still beg for nursing by the age of six - eight weeks, you can begin to dilute the formula with clean drinking water. Start with 25% water to 75% formula, and gradually decrease the percentage of milk until the babies lose interest. It's less traumatic for you and the babies to gradually wean them this way. (And it's a great little trick taught to me by my own pediatrician father, Geza J. Krempels, M.D.)

Glorious day--your doe has kindled (given birth). The chances of you ever actually watching your rabbits giving birth are very slim. They'll just wait till you leave before giving birth they can do that, you know. Me? At this point Im dying of curiosity.

Are all the kits alive and healthy? How many new kits in the nest box? Is the doe taking care of them? Can I safely check, or handle, the kits?

Amazing events, are rabbits giving birth. Lets answer these questions, because after your rabbit kindles, you need to ensure the doe and the kits are all fine.

Are the baby rabbits all alive and healthy? You need to know, because if theres a dead kit in the nest, and there might be, you'll need to remove them before they start rotting, smelling and attracting flies. There could also be a few stray placentas laying around. The doe usually eats them. This apparently increases the correct hormones that she will need for making milk. But if you find any in the nest, and you might if the litter is large, then just pull them out and throw them away. The doe will have nothing to do with it, once she's finished with giving birth and feeding the babies their first 'meal.' Rabbit kits are born with their eyes and ears sealed shut, and completely furless. Dont be alarmed at how they look - it'll take them a couple weeks for the fur to grow in enough to keep them warm outside the nest box.

Heres a picture of Xena's kits. They are only hours old, and their tummies are nice and round. This was a litter of 9; one was dead in the nest box. How many newborn rabbits are there? Imagine rabbits giving birth to 15 babies! A rabbit litter can number anywhere from 1, all the way to 15. Yes, a couple of our does have kindled 15 kits. No, they didnt all survive, sadly. It's just as difficult, rabbits giving birth to just 1 kit. Chances rise that it freezes to death, even in the nest. But one of my does, who had just one kit, sat in her nest and helped keep the little one warm. Smart doe, I thought.

There are ways to help rabbits giving birth to more kits than she can handle. Your outcomes will improve if you remove a few of the babies from the nest, perhaps fostering them to those rabbits giving birth to just a few kits. This gives the stronger kits a better chance at a good start in life, and the weaker ones a better chance at survival. Heres how I do it: I let nature take its course for a couple days. At the end of, say, 2 days, it becomes evident which of the kits are not strong. The weaker kits will not be getting their fair share of the does milk, and by, say, 2 days, these kits will have thin abdomens.

I will remove the scrawny kits from the nest. In this picture of 4-day-old rabbits, the gray bunny has no tummy. You don't want to see such a waist-line! But I'm happy to report that she still managed to get enough milk to do okay. She is still the runt of the litter, but doing very well. She may even turn out to be nice enough to show, once she discovers the delicious rabbit pellets. Ideally, I reduce the litter size to at most, 10. Sometimes a few more kits become scrawny as well. In this case, the litter might end up numbering around 8. Most does are just fine with 8 kits. That's why I like to have 2 or more rabbits giving birth on the same day. It increases the odds I can foster a few kits to another doe, if necessary. Is the doe taking care of the baby rabbits? After rabbits giving birth comes the feeding of the kits, and the doe will likely take excellent care of her babies. But just to be sure, you can check the bellies of the kits. If they have

nursed, their little bellies will be round, even distended. But even if they dont look full, they might safely go 1 - 2 days before getting a full meal. This is probably built into the rabbit as a protective mechanism, since in the wild, the doe might need to stay away from the nest for a while to avoid leading predators to her kits. Which brings up an important observation for domestic rabbit breeders: Mother rabbits only ever feed their kits once a day, rarely twice, and that for just 5 to 10 minutes. In this short time frame, the kits get their whole days milk supply. So, if you never see the doe go near the nest box, but the little kits have round tummies, everything is fine. You dont need to help nature along. The doe is doing her job while youre in bed asleep.

Can I safely check on the kits? What a crazy lot of conflicting information there is on this point! The answer is: Yes. Heres how it works: The doe has spent her 10 minutes in the nest at 11 pm at night. You come along in the morning and check on the kits. Even if you come along in the evening, you can still follow these steps.

Give the doe a handful of hay or whole oats (or other favorite treat). This distracts the doe. Remove the nest box from the cage and place on a flat surface. Move the mound of fur aside. If you see any dead baby rabbits or placentas, remove them. Reach down into the deeper recesses of the burrow and pull out all the kits, counting each one.
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Place them on top of the shavings in front of the burrow, one by one, where you can see them. Observe that there are no dead kits in the back, down in their little sleeping burrow, and if there is, remove them. Check that each kit has a full tummy and seems healthy. If the litter is large, there may be one or two whose bellies are not as full as the others, however hopefully they will have had at least some milk, and you can make a note to recheck in a day. Replace the kits where you found them. Some may have already crawled back down into their burrow. Mound the fur where you found it, over top of the burrow.

Put the nest box back into the cage. The doe will come check it out. She might hop in the nest and feed her babies, but chances are better that she wont return to her babies until late at night. In the meantime, the kits will pick up the scent of their nest again, and lose your scent. If your doe knows you and your scent, and is comfortable with you, the chance is very great that shell be completely unimpressed by your scent on the nest box. I have NEVER had a doe reject her litter because I checked the nest box.

If you have doubts, for example, if you acquired a pregnant doe who is unfamiliar to your home, if you never handle the doe, or if you know your doe is skittish or highstrung, then put a dab of vanilla extract on her nose. She wont be able to smell anything else for a while, they tell me. You can check the kits safely, and they will lose your scent by the time she goes back into the nest to feed them.