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Barel Machine
by Gerald R. Hunter
There are several gunshops in this country which can
turn out an excellent rifle barrel or rechoke a shotgun
tube to your preferred percentage, but for many muzzle
loaders this is not enough. It wasn't enough for me, when
I bought bucketful of flintlock parts from Dixie Gun
Works, induding an unrifled barrel blank.
Of course, many a muzzleloader who would give his
eyeteeth to be shooting a rifle barrel he had built himself,
may be well heeled, but there are also many poverty
stricken ones who cannot afford such custom work. The
barrel machine described and pictured here, of my own
design, is versatile, accurate, minimal in cost, and small
enough to fit into the tiniest home workshop.
Among the many operations which can be performed
on the device are rifling, overboring, finish reaming to
land size, chambering, throating and muzzle-relieving of
rifle barrels, as well as choke cutting, chambering, lap
ping and polishing of shotgun bores.
The rifling rig cuts any number of grooves from I to 12
(including the awkward 7 and II) and any pitch from I
turn in I foot to infinity in a straight twist (and with U
arched cam bar, the gain twist).
While the device could be used for deep-hole drlg in
solid blanks, it is intended for overboring shot-out rifle bar
rels, or increasing the bore size of useless calibers to larger
conversions like . 357 and .4 magnum, or muz eloaders.
The same unit that does the borng is utilized also for finish
reaming after the borng, preparator to rifljng. In smooth
bore barrels it can be used to remove pitting when thickness
of barrel walls allows, to ream out choke, and to rechamber.
This same unit is used for all work on rifle barrels except for
lapping and cutting the liOing. Shotgun bore work is done
on the third unit of the device.
A single motor transmits power through a series of V-belts
and pulleys to operate the devices at proper relative speeds.
the rifling head is hand-operated, as is the shotgun barrel
carriage_ The barrel boring carriage may be hand-operated
or powered by cables, pulleys and weights.
Overall size of the composite machine is only 24 I wide
by 42' high by 96" long, but it could be smaUer. The ri
fling platform may be swung out about 450 during the
brief time when actual ri fling is being done, to make it
more comfortable for the operator, and also so the cam
bar (which determines twist) has additional room when
severe rates of twist are being cut.
Expense "f the machine can vary widely. For instance,
the .frame can be made of welded I-beams; expensive
thrust bearings can take the loads; highly tempered rack
and pinion gears can turn the cutter rod, and so on, to a
very staggering figure. To shave costs severely without
sacrificing efficiency, my machine is constructed from
materials you would classify as junk. It cost less than $50,
excluding the motor.
The most important ingredient is the entire operation is
that of proper perspective. You must first understand
just what you are doing, what the parts of the machine
are to do, and how you are going to make the machine do
them. Once you have this' 'big picture" you are in a posi
tion to economize most on construction.
Few of the tolerances are critical. You can vary the di
meions of the parts to fit whatever supply of materials
you can acquire at least cost. If you can find a cam bar of
somewhat different thickness than specified, for in
stance, at a substantially cheaper cost, by all means sub
stitute it. Further savings can be effected by utilizing used
materials. Superficial rust on a rail or bar from a scrap
yard may make that material available for JO per pound
instead of several dollars per pound for some newly al
loyed metals, either of which would do the job. In the
case of rods, use hot or cold rolled steel instead of drill
rod, at vast savings. For the hollow boring rods, use
seamless steel tubing instead of the more expensive air
craft qUality. For chucks, borrow those already on hand
m some of your other appliances or machines.
To begin a[ual construction of the machine, cut the
Act;urau indexing of the r barrd vcm be done by using
a compo
bubble protractor temporaily ci1ped to pipe that w
be the vise,
Compltlld r/ling barrel vlst. insldt Induing head.
4x4's to Ingth for the main frame, then the 2x2's for the
scondary part. Mortise the joints Or half-lap them. and
as you join the parts apply glue, true them with a square,
clamp them, drill pilot holes, and bolt or screw them to
gether. Allow the glue to dry thoroughly before proceed
ing farther. The machine will be subject to vibration,
which will wreck your structure unless it is soundly made.
Do not permanently install th bed for the lapping!
choking device until you have found, by actual xperi
ment, where it must go to align properly with the chuck.
gn with the platform, a 2 7 10 7 96 inch straight,
seasoned plank, and bolt or screw the tracks on one end of
it. Any track that is substantial and reasonably true wldo.
Make up the carriage block; and rabbet, dado, or oth
erwise, make it a clean sliding fit in the channels of the
track. Length must be provided to give room for the pi
nion gear, rack gear bar, bearings and hand grip.
The ball bearings (roIler skate wheels) must be firmly
bolted to the carriage with V-straps, or something simi
lar. Between the bearings, at right angle, bolt the chan
nel iron guide for the rck gear. The rack gear isa bicycle
chain bolted to a flat steel bar that will slide snugly in the
greased guide channel.
Anchor the rack gear to the rack gear bar with a stout
machine screw at either end, for the bicycle chain must be
very taut. The rack should be long enough to all ow two
! more complete revolutions of the pinion gear (a bicycle
rear sprocket) when assembled and meshed.
The largest rod that will pass through the hole in the
sprocket acts as the pinion axle. Turn down ends of the
rod to fit through each bearing (the skate wheels), leaving
shoulders turned on the rod as natural end stops, and
braze the rod true in the sprocket. Before assembling the
ale, adapt the longer end of it to hold the rifling rod. A
common threaded joint, which allows twisting, wiII not
suffice. You can cut a lap-and-hook joint, held together
with a movable sleeve. or a small chuck.
Assemble the sprocket-mounted axle into the bearings,
mesh sprocket with the rack gear, then bolt down the
bearing housings.
The cam bar, by the angle it forms with the spacing bar,
determines the bore distance per revolution of pitch to be
cut, and must be four feet long if you want to cut barrels up
to 42". This proportion may be used for shorter lengths. The
pivot end is attached to the platform with a bolt; the opera
tor's end is anchored to the spacing bar with any movable
device which wlsecurely hold it to the index. Dogleg bends
raise the cam and spacing bars up to the level of the rack gear
guide so they'll operate in the same plane.
The cam end of the rack is drilled to accept two bolts.
A short under bar, 8" long, is drilled and mated to that
end of the cam bar, and a ball bearing skate wheel i s per
manently bolted under the rack bar and inside the cam
bar. The outer holes are elongated to allow adjustment
(fast twists cramp the cam), and a second skate wheel is
mounted on a wing nut adjustment bolt through the
routed holes. The skate wheels must embrace and snugly
roll along the cam bar; the wing nut adjustment is neces
sary because the space between the wheels increases as the
. .. OilLinc


f --_." DrivcPulley
Drive. ______ " .
Mandrel. ______ __
Chuck. ___________ --
Track. ____ ____ ---
Skate Whed ___ _ _

Frame _________ ._
. _ . __ Chuck
_. __ Track
____ , ... Oil Pan
_ _ ___ .. Barre
___ ._Ca

` .



Skate WhcI
Pinion Gear
:, :.
Handle PuIl

Handle "
. lode.ingHead

Cam 83r Pvct
stop collar for

h end which wlkep the small pip from

nd-aft driftlIlg. Bolt the outer QIQc firmly on
the plat
to line up
with 1DCQgaxle and rod. .
smaller pipe,
which is your
barrel vise,
longer than the outer plpe so that you cau have room for
opposed set screws which will hold the gun barrel. Insert
the small pipe into the larger and drill a small hole
through both pipes; this is your first basic index refer
ence. Whh these holes firmly aligned (by a temporary
pin), affix the stop collars. To index the barrel vise, space
the circumference of the vise into the number of divisions
(grooves) you may want to cut. You can set up 0 12-
groove index with just one outer index hole, and with
cut 12, 6, 4, 3 or 2 equally spaced grooves. But you must
drillS additional outer indices to cut 5, 10,7. 8, 9 and J
grooves. Ends of the barrel vise should be drilled and
tapped at right angles for two sets of set screws each to
grip the gun barrel.
Barrel Boring, Reaming
First step i the oil pan. Ol a wooden template, 7' x 8" x
2", clamp the sheet metal over it, and bend the oil pan into
shape. A drain hole for the cutting oil is cut through a lower
corer of the pan. Solder a cup under this hole, with its own
exit hole below, to hold some loose packing a a filter for the
oil. For gravity feed you need a catch pan, and a reseroir
mounted above the machine. A oil line connects the reer
voir to the hollow driveshaft so cutting oil wlbe fed to the
work. Mount the oil pan with self-threading screws, through
neoprene washers, into the oil pan platfonn.
Borng Head
Thread one end of the driveshaft to take a chuck that
will hold the boring rod. True and polish the outer end of
the driveshaft to take the pressure-snug oil line. Install
the shaft in the 1 pulley and through the mou nted
thrust bearings. JD boring track should be as long as the
Rifling rods and
cutter head. Fore and aJt, carriage
udamped In ILre wllh
machine screws. Cutler
in top
center oj
hell ,
woodtn shim In pilce below.
Rifling carriage. Fore and aft, guide rails. Right, wooden o
handle. Background, cam bar. Center, bicycle sprocht is actuated by
bicycle chain mounted on bar which slides in channel iron as carriage
move.I. Note ball bearing skate wheels (bearings) in moun/so Rifling rod
at left ctnter.
longest barrel you will bore plus cnglhof the longest bit
or reamer you will use, fastened firmly through Ihe bot
tom of !bcoil pan to Ihe oil pan plalform.
The boring barrel vise is made from a Z thickwall
pipe, with opposed set screws to grip the barrel. This vise
U firmly mounted to the carriage, which can be made of
either wood or metal. Depending on the scrap available,
make guides that will force the carriage to slide accurately
down the track. Criteria for mating of the carriage and
track is that they be an easy sliding fit, free of wobble, so
the cutter won't chatter. Centerline of the vise must cor
respond to centerline of the drive chuck.
One end of the hollow boring rod is held Ithe chuck. The
other end V brazed or threaded 10 the cuUer, with a bleed
hole through the rod wall at the cutter so cutting oil c
reach the work, 6!the tube and be caught in the oil pan.
Lapping, Choking
The device for rechoking, internal polishing, bore lap
ping and removing rust from barrel chambers is mounted
paraUed to the boring tool, and nearer the operator since
. the carriage is hand-fed.
Begin with 'the track. a simple strip of hardwood 1
long, Z" wide and I deep, nailed to its platform. The
wooden carriage must be wide enough to handle the wid
est double barrel guns and drillings with which you will
work. as well 8 single barrels and barrels having awk
ward integral lumps or mounts. The carriage cover is
clamped to its base with four opposed wing nut machine
bolts, 80when the cover is screwed down tightly on a bar
rel. the barrel is firmly held in the carriage. The carriage
moves on ball bearing roUer skate wheels to allow eas).
consistent carriage movement alan, its track_
Mount the ball bearing mandrel so the shaft aligns with
the track. If barrel-widths of the guns you are working
is extreme, instead of nailing the track to its plat
form, you will have to provide lateral adjustment. On lhe
outer driving end of the mandrel put a b drive pulley
then a 2`pulley that will transfer power \0 Ihe cutting de:
vice. The inside end of the mandrel takes the chuck. ^
lJ motor, with the pulleys specified. will give
proper speeds for most operations. The malar should be
al least k h.p., and a full 1 h.p. wi\\ be less likely to stall
and leave a cutter stuck :La high-priced shotgun tube.
OH Seals
Culling oil is gravity fed to the O0/|n[ drive shaft by a cop
per oil line, bent to shape so it exerts pressurc against the end
oflhe hollow mandrel. The two pasages arc mated against a
hollow neoprene "button" (which you can shape with a little
experiment), and the oil itself provides ample locallubrica
lion as the mandrel turs against it.
To seal the joint wherc cutting oil lcavcs the mandrel and
passes through the centerless chuck to the hollow boring rod,
a simple, flat, flexible neoprene or plastic washer inside the
chuck prevents escape of the oil. Hold the borng rod tightly
againsl this washer while locking the chuck.
The main essentials in rifling are these: (a) make sure
the gun barrel cannot slip in the barrel vise; (b) double
check before starting to make sure the bore is reamed to
land, not groove, diameter; (c) keep a sharp cutter, with
enough relief not to bind; (d) never stop the cutter during
a stroke; (e) never change the relationship of the rifler to
the bore until the job is completed.
To rifle. mount the barrel, muzle toward the cariage.
M]betwen the set screws. Slip the rifling ro through the
barrel and moun
1{1Dthe chuck. 7lthe cutler head ad
adjust the shims for the first cut, which should be ver lht,
lor .Jkthe indexng head. Ancor the O
Son, Gerald, Jr. operates riftr. Below, center, carriage of boring/
rramlng machinr
In oil pan.
Etrrme below, Shotgun barrel In carlolt
of shotgun tool.
` Pulley
On Motor

6" Pulley

on the spacing bar for the required amount of twist.
h0 Cut is made on a pustroke. Make the fIs! cut with a
dry bore. After the cut, inspect the bore to make sure the cut
Gean and consistent. Now remove !h0shims from the {-
ter head, put 8|8!Chwet wilh CuUnoil on the head bulton,
and push the head through 1he bore in reverse, thus cleaning
out the chip ad lubOca!mg for Ihe n0xt Cut.
Shim up the cutter for about a .UJCut (thickness of a
brown paper bag). Pu\l the indexing pin, rolate the barrel
vise to !hcnext hole, and replace the pin. Squirt mOre c|-
ting oil in the bore and take a new cut. When you h
been all the way around the index, add anothcr paper
shim and repeat un!! !h0 d0J0d d0!h of grouve is cut.
About .012isusual.
Choke Cutting
To remove choke, or to cut a recess choke in a cylinder
bore barrel, lock an ordinary brake cylinder hone, avail
able from most auto supply houses, in the shotgun chuck.
Lubricate with cutting O!. h0D Cut!ng recess choke,
provide carriage stops so the cutter will cut only the
cW!h of choke you want. Don't slop the carriage In niid
track; hep a steady back-and-forth motion. Stop the
motor and remove the barrel frequently for inspection.
Lapping, Internal Polishing
As diagrammed, the power shaft of this tool turns at
approximately 800 RPM, ideal for most such work. 1!
this speed it exerts a lot of bulldog power - enough to
the carriage out of your hands if it
from you, possibly severely injuring you. 1!is wise 10pro
'vide 8foot or knee cutoff switch so you can instantly stop
the motor if necessary. Faster speeds build up too much
heat and burnish rather than cut; slower speeds tend t
gal! and may freeze the cutter in the work.
on the driveshaft should be large
up to
V" cutter rods. You wl need Yz /
down to 1/"
cover JO
down to .410 bore tube,
each a little longer
than the longest gun barrel to be worked on. The end of each
rod should be slit with a hacksaw or mlfor 4" to I " depth
depending on rod dianleter, to accept part of a sheet of
emery doth. Coarse grits are best; flne grits may polish a bit
prettier, but have been found not to have enough friction to
control shot well.
You will also need some rubber to shim up the emery as
the cut proceeds and wears the grit down. Use plenty of
cutting oil.
In practice, tear off a piece of emery cloth, slip it into
the slit of the rod, and wind it so it will follow the direc
tion of rotation. Use as much winding as you can force
into the bore as the rod begins rotating. In full-length
bore polishing, keep the carriage moving full-length back
and forth, with no stopping, and with considerable pres
sure being needed to hold the carriage and to make it
move back and forth. When the resistance becomes easy,
slide the carriage off the cutter, stop the motor, and add
shimming or more emery; fe-lube and cut again.
Never let the emery stop in the tube or it may stick and
give you fits removing it without damage. To help pre
vent such a catastrophe, keep drive belts and chuck very
tight, and use a motor you can't stall.
, MuH1H
The eselltia1s Othese operations are to have al\ ade
quate 1OW O cutting oil; to make sure the cutting rod
OOcsD't slip in the chuck; and to have the carriage free of
all undue wobble that would cause the cutter to chatter.
Boring is best done OD a pull stroke, because the entire
!OOW rOO aets as a pilot, and the emire bore behind the
rlht hand, chuck j<hlch hold bo,;n,l"gm( rods; ;1ule!t,
cult/n, oft/ttd lint, In IeJ| hllnd, chuck which holds shottun lapp'''
rod, Nou wooden slide at lowtr 't/I, /0 adjusl b,'t /tns/on, Top, rift'
bil is available !0 take the chips. Keep thc bit going and
the carriage moving or your stopping will show up as a
ripple in thc bore.
Reaming is usually done immediately after the boring,
and can be done on either a pull or a push stroke. 1n the
instant machine, sct up for boring on a pull stroke, ream
ing should bc done likewise. The weight-pulley-cable ap
Dlication will result in much smoothcr reaming than is
,)Ossible by hand.
An dfective rcamer can be made by grinding down
wornou! square file of applicable site, which automati
cally provides a feeding taper and a soft iron end to braze
to the rod. It should be ground so that the first cut is very
shallow. For succecding cuts, place a long wooden shim
between one side of it and thc bore, so the shim will force
the opposite cutting corner to ream. Add paper shims g
necessary. as in rining.
Excellcnt reamers also can be made of lathe tool bilS,
particularly cobalt or tungsten carbide bils. In silver sol
dering or brazing the bits to the rods, use 8 little heat as
possible and a heat sink, to prevent drawing the temper.
Use the automatic gravity oiler if at 8 possible, and
]0n!)of cutting oil. .
Tlengthy volume could be written on the techniques o' f
rifling, choking, boring, reaming, lapping and the other
potentials of this maching. You will enjoy lurnin. these
things you operate your Own homemade machine.
Construction Procedure:
The main frame must be built first. Joinls musl be
bolted and glued to prevent looseness from working vi
brations. Flooring over the bottom is optional, but pro
vides a
place for accessories. Solid boards must be
for the rifling mechanism and the lapping bed. A mid
levelshelfmwt be provided for the molor, its height de
ltndent upon size of the molor and length of the mQ(a
minimum of 1 h.p. motor, because you don', want a lap
to get stuck midway of a bore, which might ruin the
whole job). Above the motor pulley, a sliding mount
must be provided for the lapping arbor and pulley and
behind it, a mandrell on which to mount the chuck and
puUey for the boring and reaming device.
After installation of the above, a track must be made
on which the cradle for the lapped (bore polished barrel)
will run. Recommended size is 2 V2" by Y I depth to
whatever length barrel you expect to process. The cradle,
running on four rolter skate wheels, is made of oak, with
a cover to hold the barrel, of the same material. The
cover is clamped by four wingnut bolts to hold the barrel
tight when being lapped or polished as it is passed to and
fro for application of the rod which is held in the chuck.
Behind the lapping polishing track is the part for bor
ing and reaming.
sheet metal pan is mounted here, with
neoprene washers so it won't leak the cutting oil which is
fed in through the chuck holding the reamer or drill. This
oil is fed from a I-gallon can mounted head-high above
the far end of the machine, as a gravity feed. The oil
flows down through the chuck into the hollow rod to
which the drill Of reamer is attached, and escapes through
a hole drilled in the rod just behind the cutler. A drain
hole is provided for the pan. :
The rifng device could b made separate from the rest of
the machine, but is mounted atop it for practical working usc.
The whole thing is mounted on a 2 x 6 board, pivoted at the
far end Vth a bolt so it Cbe swung to the left to give more
room for working it. Guide ras (of whatever material is
available) are attached to either edge, so the rifing index wl
move in a straight line. A blok of wood is made so it has
flange which follow the guide rails. To this is bolted a half
square steel beam, which seres as a channel for the index
chain to run back and forh. The chain, fastened solid at both
ends, is a common bicycle chain. This chain actuates a com
mon bicycle sprocket (from the same scrap bike, in this case)
which is fastened to a chuck which holds the rifling cutter
rod. The sprocket is mounted i pillow blocks, so it L tum
as the head is slid back and forth. The progession of the tum
(pitch) is regulated by a cam bar. The bar is anchored at the
near end of the guide rails, the far end being able to swing i
and out depnding on the rifling pitch deired. The far right
end of the chain mount has a bracket which s lides along the
L bar, so that as the rig is pulled (this is a pull CUller), the
L makes the chain move rght or left which, in tum, re
volves the sprocket, that tums the culler rod.
The barrel vi se is a hollow steel tube also mounted on
the same board; it has four big headed set screws to hold
the barrel firm for rifling. This tube goes inside the index
tube. The index tube is pre-indexed with 6 holes (more if
you want more than 6 turns to the length). You put a steel
pin through the index into a matching hole in the barrel
vise; make a pass with the cutter; pull the pin, rotate the
vise until the pin drops into the next hole; then make an
oter pa

s with
the cutter, and so on.
In iing, after you cfamp the barrel in the vise, you
damp the cuUer rod in the chuck, run it through the bar
rel so it comes out the far side, screw the cutter head to it
and crosspin the cutter so t won't unscrew. Put a shim
(common brown paper is about .UU3" under the elev, tor,
squirt culting oil in the bore, and pull one pass. Rem' ove
the shim, push the rod back through the bore, rotate the
barrel one hole, and rcpeat. When you have finished all
grooves (or however many you wish to index), add an
other thickness of papcr (or whatever) under the first
shim, and repeat the cutting process. Usually this is done
four times, for a groove depth of .Oll". Push a tight
patch through the finished rined bore; if it i s too rough,
lap it smooth with a poured lead slug and valve grinding
compound, or a grit of your choice.
To operate the lapping/polishing devce, clamp the gun
barrel flT y in the carriage, so the bore lines up with the rod
held in the chuck. Hold the carriagejirmly .. . . ith both hands
or the torque may take I! away from you and make a gand
mes. To leave both hands free, it Vbest to install a motor
s"itth that you can K with a motion o your X=. T Y
diameter longer than the n Dattc should be hacksawed
sptit about thIee inches at the working end to accept a wind
D of emery cloth. T more slender rod may whip and be
dangerous - even fatal -- as it revolves without a center rest.
The emery cloth should be wound to follow the diection of
the turg rod. It should be as tight as you can comfortably
control; a backing of a piece of bicycle inner tube W pro
vide the fit and also allow nexibility. Cutting oil should 0
squirted into the bore and onto the emery cloth, and the
emery slowly fitted to start into the bore. With hand pre
sure, the cloth is passed back and forth slowly through the
bore. Tfiner grit should be used lofinish the job. Never Jet
the turg rod stop with the emery doth in the DCIc.
In using the drilling device, or the reamer, also do not
let the culler stop in the Dutc.hcdrill or reamer is Qf0
Detail of all comer joints. Frame is of finished 2x4's, which of course
actually measure q 0 I, Longitudinal members are through boiled to
upright Unon; cross members extend across tenon and upright and are
into logitudinal member. All joints, before fnal
takeup of
the bolts and screws, are glued with eXlerlor Weldwood glue, available
i small amounts/rom almost any hardware store or craft shop.
All other wooden connections are simple lap joints secured with double
through bolts and glue.
No'e of the dimensions aTe critical. They may be varied, depending
upon materials a'ailabJe to whomever is constructing the machine.
pelled by a gravi!y weight, through a pulley; l it balks
add a DIof propulsion by hand but never force it rapi0ly:
Barrel Machine--Materials required
lineal feet 4 x 4" lumber (mlin frame); 28 lineal feet
2" x 2" lumber (secondary frame); 24 !\Bc t0I Z"Xb"
lumber (main platforms); 1V square feet of flooring; 4
square feel of Zmaterial (for motor mount) I pint glue;
machine bolts, or lagscrews, with washers, to pin joints.
Rifling Rig
8|Otm- WC00XZX (included in frame above);
Tracks - preferably steel, two 5 ' sections of channel iron
(old garage door hanger tracks will do).
Indexing sleeve - iron p;pe "to Ilong, Z Y" , Stop
collars - 2" sections of above piece of pipe; Stop collar set
screws - 1 ar setscrews in each collar; Induing sleeve
mount-wood, l' x 4" x 4"; Barrel vise - iron pipe longer
than sleeve, 2 7 LL, Barrel vise lock screws - two sets
of Out opposed machine screws; Indexing stop - sma!!
tapered eel pin to match index holes.
Cam bar - iron, 54" x I Y" x */t, L3 bar pivot - short'
V`section cut from same stock, plus bolI; Spacing bar -
iron, 42", cuI from same stock; Spacing bar pivot - bolt,
through DatinlO platform.
Rifling rod(s) - slightly under bore size(s); Riins rod
chuck - simple lap CuIjoint plus steel sleeve Jock; Rifling
rod cutter * steel rod, length and diameter to suit; Rifling
"7t" piece of old file, lathe Dit, elc.
Carriage block - wood, 12" x 6" x 2";
Carage gips - wood, 20" x 3" X I";
Thrust bearings - two ball bearing
roller skate wheels; Bearings mounts -
bent iron straps, bolted down; Rack
gear - bicycle chain securely screwed to
rack gear bar; Rack gear ba - iron,
42" x 1 Y" x Y 1; Ca roller bar - 8"
section of same stock; Ca roller
bolts - short bolts to fasten skate
wheel s to ca bar; Rack gear bar
guide - channel iron, slip fit for bar;
Pinion geai - rear sprocket from bicy
cle, matched to chain; Pinion gear
shaft - shaft through pinion and bear
ings, 6" long.
M0IB@~ M88D1D@
Power pulley - standard V, 10 di
ameter, ! II bore; Drive belt - stan
dard V to match, 40 I length; Shaft
hollow seamless steel tube ! NOD,
12" long; Bearings - matches pair
standard mounted ball bearings, YII
bore; Oil tank - I, 3, or 5 gallon can
(for cutting oil); Oil feeder line -
/8" copper tubing 36"
long, with cock; Oil seal - neoprene
or vinyl button between shaft and
line; Oil pan - strip of galvanized
roofing (flashing) 96" X 12 "; Oil
sump - small tin cup, plus filter ma
terial; Track - inverted channel iron
60" x 2"; Track bolts - four anchor
bolts hold track to bed.
Barrel vise - iron pipe 24" X 2" 1,
plus lock machine screws; Carriage
block - wood, 18" X 2 VI" 7, Car
riage guide - iron straps, screwed to
; Boring bars - hollow steel,
length and diameter to suit; Cutters
_ bits, reamers to suit, machine or
handmade; Chuck - stout 3-jaw,
centerless, to accept t" slock; Oil
seal- neoprene or vinyl washer to fit
inside chuck against heel.
pggn_- 1D0XD@
Power pulley - standard V, 6", with
y"D0f8, Transmission pulley - stan
dard V, 2", Ybore; Main drive belt
standard V, , Bearing unit -
standard bal bearing mandrel, DE
V " shaft; Chuck - cheap hand tight
3-jaw to take VI" stock; Track - wood,
84" X2" X 7; Carriage - two wooden
boards 16 I x 4 ; clamp bolts to grp
barrel between boards, 9 skate wheels;
Carrage stops - wooden pegs, spaced
Htrack as work requires; Lapping rod
- steel, maximum diameter to suit bore
and job; Cutters - wound emery cloth,
abrasive coated felt bobs, or automo
tive brake cylinder hone.
. Motor - heavy duty 3/ or 1 h.p., 220
volts, 1750 RPM preferred; Motor
pulley - standard V. 3 ' diameter, to ft
motor shaft; Motor mount - wood (in
cluded in frame materals); Motor
switch - foot or knee switch, for emer
gency cutoff.
Cutting oil - at least 1 @alon; Do not
Uf lubrcating oil to cut; Hardware -
asorment of bolts. Jag screws, D
chine screws as neeed; Pat - vyl,
epoxy or
olyeurethane enamel wil
keep machine easy to clean, and
rotect against oi l rot; Solder - for
an and sump.

`''=9^".i,, Ih. -0'1'''1' f"r r;rIi,, II ,.,,,,,, \,,,,I
., _,,, ,
II". b:..l:."hid"II,,.II
n".r "r,;.", .
i tI. .,,t,..(,(; . ,I . -,.
. i_ 1'"II,oJ ,,
L |. Kuehn, obcve, rifling 0 muule.loodu, borrel with equipment
and tool. of hi. Own de.ign ond moovtoct,, righ', onorher viow
|'he home'mode rifling equipmen'. Skill olld pu'ie"ce o-

o 'equired
on atloching 'he wooden .plin". '0 'he cylinde . It 'qu"e teom
:bio .triPI o( o, oo@ ollaching
wi,h ,crew .
At top, above, two views of rifing heads.
Under the scale is a wedge for adjust
Ing the cutters; second from the bottom
Is a foat used for clearing the barrel of
the old rifing; at bottom is an adjust
ing device. Right, close-up view of the
head of the rifling guide, the index
boards and their method of attachment.
Uniform TwIst Rllllng
Study the diagra on lhe lefl Jfyou want to
make a rifling cyUnder that has one tum
36, you c start with a cylinder that m36
long where lhe grooves a to be cut. A0c-
Ible metal wire Is attachcd to one end of the
wooden cylinder at poInt l. It Is then stretched
Sllnght away from the cylinder to a point tmt
Is equal to the circumference {dIstance around
lhe cylinder!. poim2 From point 2the WIre
Is stretched to i poInt l3mathe other end
of tie cylinder mat Ise.nctly 36from point .
It Is best 1the cyUnder tslying flat on atable
or workbench. Point 2 shouldbe stapled or
lacked to lhe nch so U:utIt do<:s nOI move. Now roll the cylinder toward poInt 2. ^the cyllnder
Is rolled. the wIre from pOUl I Will roll around one ndoIthe cylinder. When you have fnished
rolling the cylinder POints I an(t 2ltouIucome together Now the wire from po:nt2. 3 make one
spiral arou.nd t he cylll1der ii+|ic36"length.
Li us wlk 11iltlc <hcml the Deep HIlle Drill. Sizes. and thl' Grimling
of the orill. What U Deep Hole Drill look like. and "111111 of the
terminology of Ihe rarhitlc drill.
I will nUl
(1 inlt) thcgrimJing ttl much of the Deep 1-1t)1t; Bils. as m{l1
will buy lhe sizes that they need. When you have III huy the 'V' luhe.
am Ihclirililips, plus insHllIlhc tlrilillrivcr, ind tip. il isjll1 a"uul as
cheap to huy the completed drill. Ifyuu want tll griml your tlrililips.
the various makers if Glrhidc lools will he able tll supply ynu wilh Ihe
scvcrotl izcs (If Carhide deep helle drill tips Ihal you \\ill ncell. Te
gnuJc()f t.:;lrhidc u!.ua IlyslIp*
plied ror deep hole lip:. is
Tu set up for grinding the
deep hole tips. all Ihal is
necessary is 1 tur 2 short
pieces of drill rod, ahoul I
inch long, center one end of
Deep Hole Drill Tips
each piece, The drill rod
shuuld be the same size as
the drill tip that you are
planning to grind. Gel a
small V way, or'a piece of
finish angle. Lay the tip and the 2 pieces of drill rod, with the cenlers
out Uclh end of tile lip. Get some low melting silvcrs()ldcr and j()in
the 3 picces.


_ -
20 DEG.
' ` |
' I
--\ :SS
Usc Ihe lowesl name possihlc 10 melt I he silver solder, as 10 much heat
will OGin (ra(k Ihe GHhillc lip. Whcn donc lei (001 in the fixture.
When cool set up hetwccn centers of the lathe. set tail stock over so
NO"rNCL . Tunr or cuN .. .. ,
you wi l l have U I lkgrcc i ndudcu taper per inch rrom the front or
(ulling edge or t i p t o t he hark.
After this. grind the primary land. This will have to he ground U
ahsolutcrcntl'r. AJkr lhi s is done. hcaL Ihedri ll t i p lip and remove the





k 1 1Ubb
ceOiered ends. Grind lhe remainingsilvcr solder from lhecarbidc li
iflheholc>are pl ugged, dri l l lhcm oul. I have found lhal welders chalk
rubbed inlO Ihe holes of I he l i p will help H keep the solder from
plugging i l . The drill can now be moun led O the drill lubing.
The V luhing can he purchase from High Sianoun!. l Donjon.
address arc in the hack of the hook under suppliers. 1 would rCllffi
mend Ihal Y()U huy Ihe firsl (ie from Ihe suppliers. This will save you
some head aches on your first harre!. The urill will last for several
humlrcd harrcls if you have no m.dtlcn(, ami you take (arc of them.
In Ihi. dmp't'rwc \\ i l l cm'(:r I he pron: Suf makin)! lhl' I i l ll: 11;1 1 ' 1: 1 . 1y
II\IWyou kIll 1\\ III 1\\ 1 hI. ' 1< II\: l l l' !'II' lUIIU. 0UU ha\'t' " l'!`ilka of
hnw t he ri l l e har l c! l

lIIadc. I \\ i l l nnw ll'll you "h :p 11\ "'\'P hl l\\' 10 _O

"hOlll rakill,! 01 III1 h;mel.
Firs! I woul d SI I I 1 \\ j I ll :1 ` i urh X 2(, inch IIltl.! ]lic 01 `UI\I
Sfl\"Sprnnf. Thi <,Iccl VIII dri l l . 1""::1111 . ., nll riflc h(' , 1 1 I 1 i l l l l . :IIHI ;,111I111
IICl(,1 .Iiw, al l Y " ! l l l hk. Thv nrq Illill! In th. i I n ] 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 i .. I >: 1 I il 1 l lH:
1:" ll l `

lt1111 01 1 l' .:nd. and (cnlel dri l l l . On Ihl' , . , h, ' , l"lld i . I bl:sl
In lact" i. ni l :thl '
rj akcsl l I t I hal I l i e ' , ' nd I hal \IHI 1 1. 111(' 1 d I i l l ed J1 1 : 1 1 : 1 1 1 0 1 "1 1 1 1 " I I li AI I !f
I I H' 1I:l I l d I I.ItUI . 1 1 . IVii l l':-ll' ndl'll. I rtlJ l l l hl: clwd; : 1 1 ' 1 ' 1 1 1 !
i mhc'i.
If lIlhand i" .1 i{'k i Illl l I (1111 I hl' cnd (l r I hl' 1<11 lie. 111:1 kl a wllar. \\ il

SCi Sl'rl\' . lilt' hanl'l clIl he l'l'!Hl'ICUHI lU I i,!i d. Al lhl' l1ieh ~pccl
1 11;1 1 I iiI. 11;1 I 1 tl I til i lled. I he end ni l he harTl'1 wi l l ... 1 : 1 1 1 1 1 1 r1l1l 1 1 1 1 1 and
The rhi p box i S in' ,Jalled wi r l l r he sr arh :r hll"ihill! ill pla(,l', ;11111 r he
slarlel' hll:hill i ~ H'I
(" ; udul l y nusIil'u lIJl H!ainSI I lll' h:l l i d hl ank.
(:Ol1I1CCI :111 1 (shields
hOUl l ht: C lIH' Pll lhc: t' nd nr , hc
l.l lhe Ihal wi ll rCll1 l l1 l ilt: Clil whel; you ,!o IIHOII!,h th(' haHt'1 \'jlll the
lIrill. 8011 ihe II i 1 l 1lrivcI holder.ccntering it ViI h Ihe renter I I I he lail
stuck. 11 would he 111111(' fll:llr<lIC if II would he dnll<` \\Oh a 5han
dlUdcc ill till: II.!ad tuLk, t hrough t he opening t hat hullis the drill
Sct lhl: lle(p lit Ill' drill ill I he dril l drivlr (11 11) Iilrriage, l(mnel:l the
hylll allli, huse I n I Ill! l i l l illg. IIW\,try c.iHcfully Iafl I he drill I ip illio
the l ul l Il hll!hing. I kI t H'c. yllil 1111"11 1111 Ihe I i l lll Il!sl II (1I I l , lIllUhlc
dld Ihe !et Llew that hilids Ille drill ill, I fYlll l l ur 1I11 1hc oil iIHI
m1 6cw6 1OR
cn1mINu Bumt.
t ur II p r I l l: P 1"(. "'.' U!v, Y It, wi l l llIW Ol l r 1 1 1.: OI i l l ili ld
' 1

ihk chip I hl:

l i p, <lml iIlt g.1 all i l i l hi l i l l
Tur UII I I I ..: oi l . hUI bdl lre \t III \l I l l wk. II I ": I hal l ile vidvl' is ()PI\ al l
I he way..t1 I l lere i" J I ll pl ':"'11 rc i I I I he I i II":.
I cwryl hi ng i U K you ,He
pumping I hL' oil h.II:" 1 l 1 1 he l ank, wi t l i very l i l l lc oil gl l ing t hrough Ihe
drill. N, IW dllc tile valve l( )wly. watching t lie pn; .... urL' (I l l the ,'ilIge.
when i l geb lip I I I l\ I I I liJIJ 111 ..

which is ahout I he righl pressure fu

3D calihtr h'IHeb.
Lei il lUHfor ,I JJl illllle IJIo It H:her" h II' leak .... l .utI" ami l'C IHI\\' much
oil i: cllming OUI {II I Ill: l i p. Theh l1ollld he qui l L a hi t . Thb i ...
iI1lPlll l ; I I I I .. wlhlI yt) I I ;l I cdl i l l i llg l hi: l OIlt wily t hat yl l il watdl to
sec i t your dl i l l b pl l l ggLtl Up. ;l I y l i llll: I he nllw slow: 111 1\,11, I I I ttlP.
Ol pn':","lIfc goe ... II p . .h II 1 (jOWl! Illc kcd fa"' l . Ill' you wi 1 / l ui n I he dri l l .
I wi l l ,IS:lIl11e t l l at Y' I II have :t l h'"dv I' llilllgl'll l l l c qui rk (' !lange gcarssil
you cln get Bslower feetl. A goot , I<lrl i ng poinl woultl he .OO{)X feetl
per revi liul iOIl.
MATERIAL . 1 56 .250 .5fHI
VIS. - I'.S.1. 100 - HOO 100 - HOO 125 - 700
VIS. - 1'.S.1. 1 fI0 - HOO 1 00 - HOO
125 - Hon
I 1 1 GI I
VIS. - I'.S.I. 10f) - HOO
100 - HOO
1 25 - Hilil
VIS - I'.S.I.
1fI0 - HOO
Nowifyuu lre reatly. haveall thcshicltls up. no leaks. tur Dn I he lalhe.
Bcme you tlo t his make sure Ihal Ihe tlrill lip is no\ tllut:hing the
h<fn: 1 . The l athc!'hllUld he funni ng ahnut 4000 rpm. hul you LU\run
it at jts rl:gul <rspcctl. It will take longer hH.lrill the harrel. and the dril l
mi ght tcnll l owlInlier a l i t l l eon the slower RPM. Nowwil h the oil on,
feed the dril l ililO the harrd hlank ver slowly hy hand. The dri l l and
tubing will prob.bly challer. Unless the drill tube starts O buckle,
keep reeding i t i n. an<l after i l goes jn 1/8 in or so it wil l Slt)P chattering.
Once i t SlOpS chaltering engage the reed. I t hhQuld start drilling with
chatter. I wouh.l recommend thai you keep your hand lin t hetl ri l l
IUhi ng ror two re.sons; ( I ) - J ryour hand is on Ihe luhingyou wil
able to nil what is going 011 i n th
e harre!. There is B tertain rill U the
tubing when the dril l is culling right. (2) Your hand will act as a
vibration damper ror the lIrili.
Rememher lu keel' your hand on Ihe drill all the lime to reel Ihe
vihralio,,'s on Ihe drill. Aner " short while you will he able l lell
cxacUy how Ihe drill is (Ioing. Aner a few harrels you will he ahle O
lell when I hedrill is uull, Ol it gels (hipped. Under normal comJitions
the drill should he sharpened ahout every two barrels. To sharpen i t
i s only necessary to just touch the t:utting surf<l:c wilh the silicon
caroilc (green wheel), l diamoml wheel, ralhcnhan grimlingtlll i l ic
'I'll .250 TO .SIHI TO .750
LOW IU'M 6700 4.l1l0 21 1HI
ALLOY 1 . 1'.11. .IHHI. .IHII .IHII
I I I GI I IU'M .1400 Will 15111
ALLOY 1 . 1'. 11. .001 .0111 .IHII
SPEEIJ 1 . 1'.11. .1111114 .IIOO .1I(HI5
STAI NLESS 1 . 1'.11. .11110.\ .IHHI.\ .1HH14
IU'M .l4tHl 2 100 IHIHI
1. 1'. 11 .11110] .IHHI. .IHH1
The angles on [h face of the lIrill is fai rly l:ritit:al, as [hey will change.
There my hcSp(l[S ruhhing thcllrill hccause lack (lfdcarance, may cut
turvcd holes. O m<y [ urn oul rihhon thi ps. These prohlcms LBhe
usual ly he t rLcl H an i mproperly sharpcm:ll dril l. You shouldn't
have ny rrouh1c on the l1rilling if you have followcl1 inst ructions. By
now you will have pn)hahly 1H1Iicell I hat as t he pressure (lfthc ()it goes,
so docs the temperature.
On mall ca/ihcrs the Lril 1 tUhing get rcal warm. This is IltJrJmtl. By
nowVlIushould hC<lhout till thcwCy through the harrel. When thcdrill
coms through lhe end of the harrel. your now of oi l in Ihe rhi p hox
will SlOp ahruptly. Open the valve on the hypass line ttl dmp I he oil
pressure. Let t he drill travel ahoul l tnol hcr 1/4 inrh allLl Llisengagc lhe
rccdlcveranll hack nut thedrill. when it all the wayout ShUL C\,crthing
Well you have done it. You have drilled your rirsl harrel. The rest
should he cCisy now. /l' e\'erythi ng Vd5Llone right the harrel should he
perfectly sl r:i
hl . Leave I he harrel i n the lathe as the 1 1f.xt operation
will he reaming the lIrillc( harrel.
You will nced lathe with hole t hrough the hcalJ I\ld: 01 al least I
114 inLh. Thi is so you can l<ike the 2( inch Itln!cr halTl'i D\0HK
Ihrouh thcspimllc. You wi l l :1Io Ilced to gel a ,carl rai n"o yt\u
rcUU.:c til: Iccl \l r l llL l al hl. ' lIuwl1 l oal llaSI .OO{) L`L`Il PCI Il: \nhlli nn
Alsu ifylIu have rliln llr make lluilC a few tI;'lrn..ls it wtlUlLI he wise Il)
gCl lhe right size pullc)! ltl he utile H:inl:c<l!c t hl. ' spcctJ \l rl hcpinc.lh.!
up lu 300 RPM. Now you mi
ht sa
. <lnu some or the people who
manufacture I he
eri ngs fo Ihe \alhe. lh"l lhe hearings wi\\ ntll l"kc
this kiml of spccll.
My Urllling !uhe was a Hilll:h Clausing. 36 im:h hcl1, whidl I usclJ t-
9 hoursaday. Sumetimes 7 d<lYs a week for almost 5 YCCrs hchHl: I had
lo change the bearings.
The Key 10 this is (;OOD 011. AND PLENlY OF IT. Tere i little
pressure on the bearings when drilling or reaming. just a light push or
pull on Ihe spindle.
Also if you ha\e plHs Hmake quite a few harrels using cut rining. it
would he wise 10 gel Ihe righl Sil pUlleys 10 he ahle O increase the
sped of Ihe spindle up 10 2(XX) RPM to handle the smaller clibers
such d 30 caliber. My drilling lathe for reboring was a older South
BeHd wilh a 6 inch hcd, which I used H9 hOllrs a day. This lalhe ws
excellent for rehuring and liner making. and proved excellent for cut
rining. Somelimes 7 days a week for aimosl 5 years before I had to
change the bearings.
If your lathe doesn't have an oil tray or chip pan underneath, you wll
have to construct one. The tray needs 10 extend a few inches past the
head stock spindle. I f i t does not it won't be to much of a problem to
huild a LYLl thai will faslen ll1the lalhe or lray 10 caldt l ile llil frm
Ihcbarrcl anti return i l lo the tray. This cover needs to he high enough
10cOvcrthespindie hole with a piece of canvas with a hllic in II III keep
Ihe oil from splallering all over everything.
6" 1 2"
1 8" 2
" 36"
3/1 6 - 1/4" 2 3 3 3 3
5/1 6 - 1 /8" 4 4 5 66 6
1 5/32 - 1/2" 5
6 8 1 0 "
1 7/32 - 3/4" 7 8 1 0 1 3 1 7
You will need a tIlVCt thaI wtll gu liver the jaw thutk. o vrl!cI.
there will hC4uilc a hil ofuiJ Ihnlwn 'Iul lhcrc. Thbcl)'crtan h0m8c
urai scstraighl up 8ndthe tn,n! there should hculong \Iu' h. dcar
thctlrill ur rC<lmer luhc. `IIuwill alsu need anuit \untaincr tl al 1c<M
oogallon!. This c<n he the oil drum thaI the oil !Imes in.
Thcrcwillalsu ncell 10 Ilea (unlilincrtJI al lea!>! U;,II'J/t_, h! ';ttth the
oil and t:hips herllrC il reI urns Iu lhe mun:IctmIatntt. Yt uwil] need
some kim.! ul O<rCS whirh (an hc I im:h angle inll1 I"iu 11;11 tnlhc lray
in Ihe J'!hc. Thb. i to help SC
uIJlc [hc (hips frum Ille uil. "nd help
III settle lhc fine (hips. From there il goes 1uu I 1/2 iudl return pipe
un lhc lr<y. down [0 ahoul iJ foot off lhe nullom ul lht: =IlgalJun
cCJntaincr. This is uiIIc l:hClpscparate the chips InUll Ihct.iI. nm
this cunlaincr the oil over now. through a I 1/4 inch pipe luthc 55
gall"n urum, which i laying un rI illc.
In rrunl urlhcovcrllow pipe is a lar!c magnci which wlil lrap lhcvcry
finc melal Thai lliull'\ have lmc Inscille. This will prolong lhl. life "f
yuur pump.
Yuu will ncell a hydwuli( pump that w!l lurnlIut :rI \c,I' 54l l !lf
rrc.urc. and a gtxKl now ralc. You will nced the hi,!h IHC\UrC rur
drilling to gCl lhc rcquircu now lurt'movc the chips. In thl' rC;lming
operation. you wi l l also ncctl il large volume uIUl! Itktpthe nutes
dear. Nol cnuugh oil now anu the I1UIC of Ihe Il'amcr 11111 1 uin Ic
reamer and hiHn:1.
L1u!anIviscl)sily ftnllrillsi1.t 1/ tll.VXinchhtIUld hcX!)/115 Sayl,1t
Secunds al Ddegrees.
PUI a barrel blank i n Ihelalhe Ihal has theendsquared and trued, press
Ihe unhardened Slaner bushing into Ihe bearing. Then very carefully
move Ihe chip box wi l h Ihe slarter bushing and bearing up flush with
Ihe end of the harTel. Make sure that the hushing is Oush with the
barrel, and not canted. Tighten down the chip hox, turn on the
machi ne Umakesurc all is running true. Ifeverthingis running true,
set in the deep hole dril l the size you are making Ihe hushing for, turn
on the uil. SCI for low pressure. The drill point will just be Slaned in
the hushing.
Turn on the lathe, and slowly feed the drill tip into the hushing, and
into Ihch,lrrcl fori dcplhtlfaht)ul a 1/4 inch. Rack(JUI when lhistlcplh
is reached, shut off the oil, and (urn off the machine. This method can
he used ira (orren size reamer cannot he ohtaincd. This mClhno will
not give you the dosesl ft, hul if starting the drill very carefully will
almost always giVe you a straigh hole.
After the hand is drilltc. !size iI can mstamped for size, amI heal
treated. Bring up the temperature in the furnace ttl proper lempcrd.
lun:. UI:llhl.! nushingwilh 8CtlmpuuntJ [hal willsHJpScaling,and put
in the furnace. l have used a surface hardening compound for this
purpt)sc wilhcxcdlcnl results. Hardand Tuffisvcr gOixl. AsStlilfl as
Ihchushing has rClchcd the proper temperature. rcmOVCllnd qllcnl'il
in i gmxl 4ucnchingoil. You will not nced hdraw the \cmpcron [he
hushing uwe need all lhcllinJncss we l<ln get.
Th;shushingwi!l lasl Iuta manyl'tarrds, anuwhcn ilslan, !OWC<.r, you
will kllt)w as yruwill start uigcI cHluked urrccnlCr hl)Ic...
Uimensions for the starter nushin I lule
U"iII Uiametcl'
1 72 . 1 64
224 .2 1 2
244 .2ZX
257 .244
O1meDe1co Ioz tUe 2M .2511
BL1Le1 EuoD1DQ
2711 .2M
284 .2711
.lOX .2Y3
.(). .2Y7
32. .304
3]8 322
350 34.
375 3(1
44 .41 5
457 .443
Normally in lnytlccp hulctlrillingllpcratiun, the h:.rrcJ tur . , IntJ Ihe
urill isstalinnary. The rCaStlO riiT IhisL"an he secn in. YIIU will notic
thai with Ihcsinglc lipgundrill lha\ ilunlyculsun nncctlgc. ^S il tlrills
in thcbarrcl it only cuts nn unccugt.and as it drill it drills in Ihe !lmel
ils makes ilsllwn ,-"nler. Duc \ulhe high RPM urlhe h:.rrcl, it makes
its on (cnler as il drills. This is Ihe rcasun why an ;u:loralc !Harler
hushing is so impunanl.
Thc tlritling Ilfa rilk harrel is actually thcsimptcsi und mlIS\ trlluh!e
frecuperaLion orall. When Ihcdrill is nut Maned waigh! iI will try lu
pick up the center IJf rulatiun. and the hlile is lme !clOg Lurvc.
We nurmally turned out IOUur murcmmplclctJ rille Ilrrcls pcrwcek.
and in lhetlrillingupcralion we L'Ould mlowskill help. Ali lhal was

ry was for Ihe uperalurs WIu8cIup Ihe ma..hine. lurn it on.
They had 10 walch so Ihe drill wouldn'l plug up with chip shul il of
when done, and Ihen reload i t and slarl again. When you gel
everylhing sel up righl. you will be able U turn oul 3-4 compleled
barrels a day with no problem on ONE lalhe. This is a compleled
harrel lhal is drilled. reamed and rilled.
Now aboul lhe laSl lhing lhal will be needed is a special Sleady R1
SUPPOI lhe drill lubing as il drills. This will help CU down tile
vlhrauons thai will some ti mes start in the tlrill.

You CAN NOT allow t hese vihrations to slart. If it uocs it l:an l::use
the carhide drill tip l1chip. and if you do not catch it in time it can also
cause the drill to plug upand twiSi the ti poff. Will give you a good idea
ofwhal " Deep Hole Drill looks like.
I want to point out Ih:l this drilling setup is not li mi lcd lo just barrels.
It ('n he uscll for 4uitc a hit df other imJuslriul opcral ions. where
extremely accurate holes arc neeued. Also with carhide drill tips. ver
hard sleel can he drilled. Fo odd shaped items whereyuu are unohle
MATEIUAL .156 .250
VIS. - I'.S.1. IIH. - HlHl 100 - 800 125 - 7lN'
1111; II
VIS. - 1'.S.1. 1110 - 8lH. 100 - 8lN. 125 - IMHI
VIS. - I'.S.I. 1 110 - 800
11". - 8lH.
125 - IMH'
VIS - I'.S.I. I OO - 8lH'
OrOlale the drill. you can set u
the operation where the drill can l
rotatcd using special tooling.
Thcscwill givc)uu thc prc.sureand Visl;osily ("fYl/urOH Cuolarll !Il
dilferent Iypes of materials. Do nut furget luput the shield liver the
end uf the harrel, so when you tlr[ll lhruugh Ihe harrcl the nil will nul
he sprayed uver the enlire shup.
W. o. MEK oullincs an old mClhod of drilling barrels
.Host readers are familiar with
D-bits, which are used as substitutes
for reamers in many model workshops,
alld hare been referred to in several
}'1E constructional articles. But recent
qlleries suggest that the D-bit is not
as well known as it should be, even to
professional engineers. This article
describes one of the first and most
important applications of D-bits in
deep drilling and boring operations.
Dcc !um $oIder !obl!

<",II" ....
! .
0 W
HILE the Dbit is pr!marily
a gunsmith's 1001. l could
be very useful to model
and general engineers if its mcthod
were more generally known. It is
often confused wi t h the nat bil for
opening out cored holes !H iron
When guns were firsl iDt rOduLed.the
nalUm1 cOlc to build them Wcre the
armourers and sword-l1l;lkcrs. They
had developed a high St0nUurU of skill
in smith's work. but they did not lise
lHc laIht to any extent. 1 was found
possi blC to make serviceable gun
barrel s by hammer-welding bundles of
wrought iron wires and ! \isling them
at the same time. When the barrels
were fnish fled. they had a DC0U1I!U
I8!D, running in spirals like a wire
IO. They were morc resistant to
bursting than an ordinary bnr.
At frst thC bore was rormed by
oIin on B mandrel. By 1 60 , gooU
quality bOIes VcIC |IOUuLcU WH!LH
must have beCn dr!lled. The UD
drill, as we know it. has the advantage
of beiDg able to drill u HOle accurately
without the need lOt an accurate beU.
The drill bit i1selis the accurate part.
!course, moder deephole UIlS are
highly accurate, multi-s
indle, DODt-
0tlV6D,highspemachUlcs-but they
I MRL l96{
are stil l the linear descendants of these
old devices.
Before Hitler alterd th,e 5


there was a quaner I n Bmllllll!ham

where many onelllan businesses l11adc
gun pans

There I saw and sketched

a dCphole gun dri l l reputed to have
been mUde in the 1 8105. The b\d.
about 10 ft long. \\ as said to have
been chipped, filed :\nd scraped by
There \\-as a headstock. \\ hieh had
a hollow mandrel. a tailstock. with a
hollow spindle. and U carriage \\i th a
screw feed and a drill holder mounted
on the saddle. Connected to the drill
holder was a telecopic brass lUbe
running to a high-pressure oil pump.
which drew irs oil from the chip pan.
through U filter. \Vhale oils were
traditionally used, but cutting oils
are also suitUble.
The barrel O be drilled was swung
between hollow centres, with large
cones in each end. The drill was fed
through a bush in the tailstock spindle,
which acted as a guide bush as it was
a good sliding fl.
To the bit proper, which was about
four inches long, was soldered a
length or D-scction tubc. Thc pump
forced oil at several hundred pounds
pressure through the lube and the oi l
hole i n the bi t. Such a force was
enough to wash away the chips.
The point of the bit was made
out-Dr-centre, usually about fivc
eighths or the radius of the hole. It
was, of course. cut only on one side.
The tube was flexible enough to allow
the drill to fnd its own centrc. 1f it
was ground right (there was a mystique
about the grinding) it would produce
perrect ly straight hole. The speed
would be about 800 to 1 ,00 r.p.m.
and the feed about hal f . a thou a
Once started, the drill was not
stopped until the hole was finished;
the operator could tell, by placing his
finger on the dril l tube and feel ing the
vi brations, and by examining the
swarf, how tbe drill was cutting.
Correctly, it would come away in a
crinkled ribbon: not in curls, as these
would tend to jam up the hole.
Of course, that was not thc end:
the fnal beautiful fni sh of the bore
was obtained by spill boring, another
old method now hardly used. [