Академический Документы
Профессиональный Документы
Культура Документы
PLUMBING
& CENTRAL HEATING
fix it yourself and save money from changing a washer to installing a shower
Published by H a r p e r C o l l m s / V W / i / i m , L o u d o n T h i s e d i t i o n first p u b l i s h e d in 200.1. M o s t of the text and illustrations in this book previously appeared in the Collins Complete DIY Manual, published in 2001. I S B N 0 00 716441 6 C o p y r i g h t 1988,1995, 1999 H a rp e r C o l I i n sPi i blis hers T h e material for this h o o k was treated exclusively for H a r p e r C o l l i n s i ' u W / i / i f r s by Jackson D a y Jennings L t d t r a d i n g as I n k l i n k
Authors
Editorial director
Ben Jennings
P l u m b i n g systems W a t e r regulations D i r e c t a n d indirecr Draining Repairs Emergency Taps Seats a n d glands Cisterns a n d tanks Float valves Drainage Systems Maintenance Pipework Metal Plastic Water closets Replacing Installing Washbasins Selecting Taps Installing Baths Selecting Installing Showers Selecting Mixers Pump-assisted Cubicles Installing Bidets Installing
6 6 7 S 9 9 10 11 12 13 15 16 16 19 19 24 28 28 30 31 31 32 33 35 35 36 37 37 38 39 40 41 43 43
Sinks Selecting Installing Appliances Installing Storage tanks Installing Hot-water cylinders Selecting S o l a r heating H o t water Central heating Systems Boilers Radiators Controls Diagnosis Draining and filling Maintenance Underfloor Electricity Switch equipment Safety Bathrooms Wiring Heaters C o n n e c t i o n units I m m e r s i o n heaters Tools and s k i l l s Plumbing Reference Artificial ventilation Glossary Index
44 44 45 46 46 49 49 50 50 52 52 53 53 54 55 57 58 59 60 66 68 68 69 68 71 71 72 73 74 74 80 80 81 82
Cross-references Since there are few DIY projects that do not require a combination of skills, you might have to refer to more than one section of the book. The list of cross-references at the bottom of each page will help you locate relevant sections or specific information related to the job in hand.
Plumbing systems
T h e u n p r e c e d e n t e d s u p p l y o f t o o l s a n d e a s y - t o - u s e h a r d w a r e has encouraged D I Y enthusiasts to tackle their o w n p l u m b i n g repairs a n d i m p r o v e m e n t s . A l m o s t every a s p e c t is n o w c a t e r e d for w i t h a w i d e range o f m e t a l a n d p l a s t i c p i p e w o r k a n d a t t r a c t i v e f i t t i n g s and appliances, both for new installations and for rcfurbishmcnts.
WATER REGULATIONS
Water bylaws govern the way you can . connect your p l u m b i n g system to the p u b l i c water supply. These laws are intended t o prevent the misuse, waste and c o n t a m i n a t i o n o f water. Y o u r local water supplier w i l l provide you w i t h the relevant i n f o r m a t i o n about inspection requirements and possible certification for new work and for
a
% I
major alterations.
Water systems
Generally, domestic p l u m b i n g incorporates t w o systems. O n e is the supply of fresh water from the ' m a i n s ' , and the other is the waste o r drainage system that disposes o f d i r t y water. B o t h o f the systems c a n be installed in different ways (see opposite). Stored-water system (Indirect) T h e majority o f homes are p l u m b e d w i t h a stored-water supply system. T h e storage tank in the loft and the cold-water tap in the kitchen arc fed directly f r o m the mains; so possibly are your w a s h i n g machine, electric shower(s) and outside tap. B u t water for baths, washbasins, flushing W G s and some types o f shower is d r a w n from the storage t a n k , w h i c h s h o u l d be covered w i t h a purpose-made l i d to protect the water from c o n t a m i n a t i o n . D r i n k i n g water s h o u l d only be taken f r o m the cold-water tap in the kitchen. C o l d water from the storage tank is fed t o a hot-water cylinder, where it is heated by a boiler, indirectly, o r by an i m m e r s i o n heater t o s u p p l y the hot taps. The water pressure at the various taps in the house depends on the height (or 'drop') f r o m the tank t o the tap. A slored-watcr system provides several advantages. There is adequate water to flush sanitary ware d u r i n g
T h e B u i l d i n g Regulations on drainage arc designed to protect health and safety. Before u n d e r t a k i n g work on your soil and waste pipes o r drains (except for emergency unblocking) you need t o contact the b u i l d i n g - c o n t r o l department o f your local authority. Y o u are required t o give five days notice t o your local water supplier a t e m p o r a r y m a i n s failure; rhe major before altering o r i n s t a l l i n g a lavatory part o f the supply is under relativelycistern, bidet, shower p u m p , hosepipe low pressure, so the system is reasonsupply, or any i n s t a l l a t i o n , such as a ably quiet; a n d because there arc fewer garden tap or shower, that c o u l d cause m a i n s outlets, there is less l i k e l i h o o d o f d i r t y water t o be siphoned back into impure water being siphoned back i n t o the supply o f d r i n k i n g water. the mains supply. a , ^
Wiring Regulations When making tepairs or improvements to your plumbing, make sure you don't contravene the electrical Wiring Regulations. All metal plumbing has In be bonded to earth. It you replace e section o! metal plumbing with plastic, it is important to reinstate the earth link. (See far right)
M a i n s - f e d system (Direct) M a n y properties now take a l i their water directly from the mains all the taps are under high pressure, and all o f them provide water that's suitable for d r i n k i n g . T h i s development has c o m e about as a result o f l i m i t e d loft space that precludes a storage tank and the i n t r o d u c t i o n o f n o n - r e t u r n check valves, which prevent d r i n k i n g water being c o n t a m i n a t e d . 1 l o t water is s u p p l i e d by a c o m b i n a t i o n boiler o r a m u l t i p o i n t heater; these i n s t a n t a n eous heaters are unable t o m a i n t a i n a constant flow o f hot water i f too manytaps are r u n n i n g at once. Some systems incorporate a n unvented cylinder, w h i c h stores hot water but is fed from the m a i n s . A mains-fed system is cheaper to install than an indirect one. A n o t h e r advantage is mains pressure at all laps; and you c a n d r i n k from any c o l d tap in the house. W i t h a mains-fed system there's no p l u m b i n g in the loft to freeze.
Reinstate the link If you replace a section o metal plumbing with plastic, you may break the path to earth - so make sure you reinstate the link. Bridge a plastic joint in a metal pipe with an earth wire and two clamps. It ynu are in any doubt, consult a qualified electrician.
Drainage
Waste water is drained in one o f t w o ways. In houses built before the late 1950s, water is d r a i n e d from baths, sinks and basins into a waste pipe that feeds into a trapped gully at g r o u n d level. Toilet waste feeds separately into a large-diameter vertical s o i l pipe that runs directly t o the u n d e r g r o u n d m a i n drainage network. W i t h a single-stack waste system, which is installed in later buildings, all waste water drains into a single soil pipe - the one possible exception being the kitchen sink, which may drain into a gully. R a i n w a t e r usually feeds into a separate d r a i n , so that the house's drainage system w i l l not be flooded in the event of a s t o r m .
QSingle-stack soil pipe WC, handbasin, bath and shower drain into the stack. The stack may befitted with an air-admittance valve terminating inside Ihe house. Q S i n k waste Water from the sink drains into a trapped gully. Trapped gully
* ~ SEE ALSO: Draining rainwater 7, Garden tap 48, Earthing 68-70, Supplementary bonding 69-70,01
PLUMBING SYSTEMS
@ Service pipe From the water company stopcock onwards, the plumbing becomes the responsibility of the householder. (Sj) Household stopcock The water supply to the house itself is shut off at this point. Q Oraincock A draincock here allows you to drain water from the rising main. Q Rising main Mains-pressure water passes to the cold-water storage tank via therisingmain. Q Drinking watet Drinking water is drawn off the rising main to the kitchen sink. Garden tap The water company allows a garden tap to be supplied with mains pressure, provided it is fitted with a check valve. Water meters Instead of paying a II at-rate water charge based upon the size of your home, you can opt to have your water consumption metered so you pay for what you use. For two people living in a large house, the savings can be considerable. Water meters are fitted to the incoming mains, usually outside at the supplier's stopcock, whete they can be read more easily.
Q Float valve This ualve shuts off the supply (rem the rising main when the cistern is full. Q Cold-water storage tank Stores from 230 to 360 litres {50 tn SO gallons) of water. Positioned in Ihe roof, the tank provides sufficient 'head', or pressure, to feed the whole house. Q) Overflow pipe Also known as a warning pipe, it prevents an overflow by draining water to the outside. flj Cold-feed pipes Water is drawn off to the bathroom and to the hot-waler cylinder from the storage tank. ^ Cold-feed valves Valves at these points allow you to drain the cold water in Ihe feed pipe without having to drain the whole tank as well.
Mains-fed system
() HDt-water cylinder Water is heated and stored in this cylinder ij) Hot-feed pipe All hot water is fed from this point Vent pipe Allows for expansion cf heated water and enables air to be vented ftom the system. (Q Waste pipe Surmounted by a hopper head, it collects water from basin and bath. jfjrj Soil pipe Separate pipe takes toilet waste to main drains. Kitchen waste pipe Kitchen sink drains into same gully as waste pipe from upstairs. (JJ Trapped gully
Draining a WG cistern
T o merely empty the W C cistern itself, tie u p its float-valve a r m a n d flush the W C . T o empty the pipe that supplies the cistern, either turn off the m a i n stopcock o n a direct system or, o n an indirect system, close the valve o n the c o l d feed f r o m the storage tank. Alternatively, shut off the supply t o the storage t a n k and empty it t h r o u g h the c o l d taps. Flush the W C until no more water enters its cistern.
Gate valve Frta gate valve to the cold-feed pipes from the storage tank
Miniature valve Fita miniature valve to the supply pipes below a sink or basin.
Closing .1 i i u . i i valve Cut oil the supply nf water to a storage tank hy lying the Hoal arm to a batten
Emergency repairs
Partially drain the p l u m b i n g system if you intend t o leave the house u n occupied for a few days d u r i n g w i n t e r - if possible, leave the central heating on a low setting. F o r longer periods of absence at any time o f the year, you may want to take the precaution of draining the system completely.
It pays t o m a s t e r the s i m p l e t e c h n i q u e s f o r c o p i n g w i t h
emergency
Partial drain-down
Add special antifreeze to the centralheating feed-and-ex pan si on t a n k and set the heating to come o n for a short period twice a day. Turn off the m a i n stopcock. Open all the taps t o d r a i n the house's inter system.
Full drain-down
Switch off and extinguish the water heater and/or boiler. Turn off the m a i n stopcock a n d , if possible, the water c o m p a n y stopcock outside, Open all taps in the house to d r a i n the pipework. Open the d r a i n c o c k at the base of the hot-water cylinder. If there are draincocks in the r i s i n g m a i n and in any other low pipework, d r a i n the water from these too. Flush the W C s . Drain the boiler and r a d i a t o r circuits at the lowest points on the pipe runs. Add salt to the W C pan to prevent the trap water freezing.
Patching a leak
D u r i n g freezing conditions, water w i t h i n a pipe turns to ice, which expands until it eventually splits the walls of the pipe o r forces a joint apart. C o p p e r pipework is more likely to split than lead, which can stretch to accommodate the expansion and thus survive a tew bard winters before reaching breaking point. T e m p o r a r i l y patch copper o r lead pipes as described right but close up a split in lead beforehand by tapping the pipe gently w i t h a hammer. Arrange to replace the o l d lead w i t h copper pipeas soon as you have contained the leak. T h e o n l y other reason for l e a k i n g p l u m b i n g is mechanical failure - eithet t h r o u g h deterioration o f the materials o r because a joint has failed and is no longer completely waterproof. If possible, make a permanent repair, by inserting a new section o f pipe o r replacing a l e a k i n g joint. (If it is a compression joint that has failed, try tightening it first.) F o r the time being, however, you may have t o make an emcrgctv.v repair. D r a i n the pipe first unless it is frozen, in w h i c h case make the repair before it thaws. B i n d i n g a l e a k i n g pipe Fot a t e m p o r a r y repair, cut a length of garden hose t o cover the leak a n d slit it lengthwise, so you can slip it over the pipe. B i n d the hose w i t h t w o o r three hose c l i p s ; or, using pliers, twist wire loops a r o u n d the hose. Alternatively, use a m a l g a m a t i n g tape made for b i n d i n g damaged pipes. 1'atching w i t h epoxy putty E p o x y putty adheres t o most metals and h a r d plastic and w i l l produce a fairly long-term repair, a l t h o u g h it is better to insert a new length o f pipe. T h e putty is s u p p l i e d in t w o parts w h i c h begin to harden as soon as they are m i x e d together, g i v i n g about 20 minutes t o complete the repair. First clean a 25 t o 5 0 m m (] t o 2in) length o f pipe on each side o f the leak, using w i r e w o o l . M i x the putty and press it i n t o the hole o r a r o u n d a joint, b u i l d i n g it t o a thickness o f . t o 6 m m {V t o Win). It w i l l cure t o full strength w i t h i n 24 hours, but you c a n run lowpressure water immediately i f you bind the putty w i t h self-adhesive tape.
Closing a split pipe In an emergency, close a split by tapping Ihe pipe with a hammer before you bind it. This works particularly well with lead pipe.
Binding a split pipe Bind a length of hosepipe around a damaged pipe, using hose clips or wire. Alternatively, use an amalgamating tape
Curing an airlock
Ait trapped i n the system c a n cause a tap to splutter. T h e answer is to force the air out by using mains pressure. Attach a length of hose between the affected tap and any mams-fed c o l d tvatcr tap. Leave both taps open for a short while, and then try the airlocked tap again. Repeat i f necessary, until the water runs freely.
Smoothing epoxy putty When patching a hole with epoxy pulty, smooth it with a damp soapy cloth lo give a neat finish.
REPAIRS
Replacing a washer
To replace the washer in a t r a d i t i o n a l bib o r p i l l a r rap, first d r a i n the supply pipe, then open the valve as far as possible before you begin d i s m a n t l i n g either k i n d o f tap. Removing, a shrouded head from a Tap On most modern taps the head and cover is in one piece. Vou will have to remove it to expose the headgear nut. Often a retaining screw is hidden beneath the coloured hot/cold disc in the centre of the head. Prise out the disc with the point of a knife (1). If there's no retaining screw, simplv pull the head off (2). If the tap is shrouded w i t h a metal cover, unscrew it by h a n d o r use a w r e n c h , t a p i n g the jaws t o protect the chrome finish. L i f t up the cover t o reveal the headgear nut just above the body o f the tap. Slip a n a r r o w spanner o n r o the nut a n d unscrew it (1) until you can lift out the entire headgear assembly. T h e jumper t o which the washer is fixed fits into the b o t t o m of the headgear. In some taps the jumper is removed along w i t h the headgear (2), but in other types it w i l l be lying inside the tap body. T h e washer itself may be pressed over a small button in the centre of the lumper (3) m which case, p r i s t it off with a screwdriver. If the washer is held in place by a nut, it can be difficult to remove. A l l o w penetrating oil to soften any c o r r o s i o n ; then, h o l d i n g the jtimpet stem w i t h pliers, unscrew the nut w i t h a snug-fitting spanner (4), (If the nut won't budge, replace the whole jumper and washer.) Fit a new washer and retaining nut, then reassemble the tap.
Reverse-pressure tap
10
;*r SEE ALSO: Bib lap 2G, Tap mechanisms 32, Spanners and wrenches 77-8
Gland packing Older-style laps are sealed with watertight packing around the spindle.
2 Repair a worn seat with a nylon liner I Remove circlip 2 Roll ring from groove O-ring seal Modern taps are sealed with rubber rings, in place cf gland packing. T h e base o f a mixer's swivel spout is also sealed w i t h a washer o r O - r i n g . If water seeps f r o m that j u n c t i o n , turn off b o t h valves and unscrew the spout, or remove the retaining screw (3) o n one side. N o t e the type o f seal and buy a m a t c h i n g replacement.
^
.il
\ j
| M 1 |
|| A A ,
======
jf
3 Remove the screw to release the mixer spool. You can use a cranked screwdriver (below) if the retaining screw is locered behind ihe swivel spout.
ALSO: Tap mechanisms 32, Gate value 8,20, PTFE tape 22, 81, Reseating tool 79, Stopcock 81
REPAIRS
CISTERNS A N D
Miniature float valve This type ot float valve is designed for installing in WC cisterns only.
T h e s t o r a g e t a n k i n the l o f t is s i m p l y a c o n t a i n e r f o r c o l d water. O t h e r t h a n a l e a k , w h i c h is u n l i k e l y w i t h m o d e r n t a n k s , the o n l y p r o b l e m s t h a t a r i s e are caused by float-valve failure. The v a l v e i n a s t o r a g e t a n k is s i m i l a r to those used f o r W C c i s t e r n s , h u t y o u s h o u l d never replace o n e w i t h a m i n i a t u r e float valve.
Three-pan siphon This type of siphon can be dismantled for replacement of the flap valve without having to shut off the water or drain the cistern
Direct-action WC cisterns
M o s t modern W C s are washed d o w n by means of direct-action cisterns. Water enters the cistern through a valve, which is opened and closed by the action of a hollow float attached to one end of a rigid a r m . A s the water rises in the cistern, it lifts the float until the other end of the a r m closes the valve and shuts off the supply. F l u s h i n g is carried out by depressing a lever, which is linked by wire to a r o d attached t o a perforated plastic o r metal plate at the b o t t o m o f an inverted l l - b c n d tube (siphon). A s the plate rises, the perforations arc scaled by a flexible plastic d i a p h r a g m [flap valve), so the plate can displace a body o f water over the U - b c n d t o promote a s i p h o n i n g a c t i o n . T h e water pressure behind the d i a p h r a g m lifts it, so that the contents o f the cistern flow up t h r o u g h the perforations in the plate, over the U-bend and d o w n the flush pipe. A s the water level in the eistetn drops, so does the float - thus opening the float valve to refill the cistern. Servicing cisterns T h e tew problems associated w i t h this type of cistern are easy to solve. A faulty float valve or poorly adjusted float arm w i l l allow water to leak into the cistern until it drips from the overflow pipe that runs t o the outside o f the house. Slow o r noisy filling can often be rectified by replacing the float valve. If the cistern w i l l not flush until the lever is operated several times, the flap valve probably needs replacing (see left). If the flushing lever feels slack, check that the wire link at the end o f the flushing arm is intact. W h e n water runs continuously into the pan, check the condition o f the washer at the base of the s i p h o n .
SEE ALSO: Adjusting the float arm 14, Spanners and wrenches 77-8
DIAPHRAGM VALVES I
The pivoting e n d o f the float a r m o n a diaphragm valve ( k n o w n i n the trade as a Part 2 valve) presses against the end of a small plastic p i s t o n , w h i c h moves the large rubber d i a p h r a g m to ical the water inlet.
VALVE SEAT
VALVE SEAT
SEAT
clean the piston with fine wire w o o l . Some pistons d o n ' t have a removableend cap, a n d so the washer has to be d u g o u t w i t h a p o i n t e d k n i f e . Since it's a tight fit w i t h i n a groove in the p i s t o n , make sure you don't damage this type o f washer when replacing it. Use wet-and-dry paper wrapped a r o u n d a dowel rod to clean inside the valve body, but take care not to damage the valve scat at the far e n d . Reassemble the p i s t o n a n d smear it lightly w i t h silicone grease. Assemble the valve, then connect the float a r m . Restore the supply o f water a n d adjust the a r m to regulate the water level i n the cistern.
Croydnn-pattem valve Only old-fashioned tanks will be lilted with this valve. The piston travels vertically to close againsl the seat. Replace the washer as described left.
Interchangeable valve seats The plastic seat against which the washer or diaphragm closes has a large inlet for lowpressure water or a small inlet lor mains or high pressure. Seats that are damaged or worn should be replaced.
4 Undo the cap arid pull float aim to find the valve
SEE ALSO: Turning off the wafer 6-9, Adjusting a float arm 14, Slip-joint pliers 79
Renewing a float valve Clamp the velve to the cistern with fixing nuts
Thumb-screw adjustment Some float arms are cranked, and the float is attached with a thumb-screw Clamp To adjust the water level in the cistern, slide the float up ot down the rod.
If the water pressure t h r o u g h the valve is too h i g h , the a r m oscillates as it tries t o close the valve - another cause o f water hammer. T h i s c a n be cured by fitting a n e q u i l i b r i u m valve. A s water flows through the valve, some of it is i n t r o d u c e d behind the p i s t o n Float valves are made to suit different or d i a p h r a g m to equalize the pressure water pressures: low, m e d i u m and high on each side, so that the valve closes (LP, M P and H P ) . It is i m p o r t a n t to s m o o t h l y a n d silently. choose a valve o f the correct pressure, Before s w a p p i n g your present valve, o r the cistern may take a l o n g time check that the pipework is c l i p p e d t o fill. Conversely, if the water pressure securely - as the noise c o u l d be caused _ is too high for rhe valve, it may leak by v i b r a t i n g pipes. continuously. T h o s e fed direct from the mains s h o u l d be H P valves, whereas most domestic W C cisterns require an DIAPHRAGM . L P valve. If the head (the height o f the tank above the float valve) is greater t h a n 13.5m (45ft), fit an M P valve. In those rare cases where the head exceeds . 30m (100ft), fit a n H P valve. In an
apartment w i t h a packaged p l u m b i n g system (a storage tank built on top of the hot-water c y l i n d e r ) , the pressure may be so l o w that y o n w i l l have t o fit
s
EQUILIBRIUM
CHAMBER
a full-way valve ro the W C cistern in order to get it to fill reasonably quickly, If you live in an area where water
9
pressure fluctuates a great deal, fit an e q u i l i b r i u m valve (see left). To alter the pressure of a m o d e m , valve, s i m p l y replace the seat inside it. If the valve is a very o l d pattern, you w i l l have t o swap it for another one of a different pressure.
Drainage systems
A drainage system is d e s i g n e d t o c a r r y d i r t y w a t e r a n d W C waste from the a p p l i a n c e s i n y o u r h o m e t o u n d e r g r o u n d d r a i n s l e a d i n g to the m a i n sewer. T h e v a r i o u s b r a n c h e s o f the w a s t e s y s t e m are protected b y U - b e n d traps f u l l o f w a t e r , t o s t o p d r a i n s m e l l s f o u l i n g the h o u s e . D e p e n d i n g o n the a g e o f y o u r h o u s e , i t w i l l have a t w o pipe system o r a single s t a c k . B e c a u s e the t w o - p i p e s y s t e m has been in use f o r very m u c h l o n g e r , it is s t i l l the m o r e c o m m o n o f the t w o . Use s i m i l a r m e t h o d s t o m a i n t a i n either s y s t e m .
DRAINAGE SYSTEMS
Two-pipe system
The waste pipes of older houses are divided into t w o separate systems. W C waste is fed into a large-diameter vertical soil pipe that leads directly to the underground drains. T o discharge drain gases at a safe height a n d make sure that b a c k - s i p h o n i n g cannot empty the W C traps, the soil pipe is vented to the open air above the guttering. Individual branch pipes leading from upstairs washbasins and baths d r a i n into an open hopper that funnels the water into another vertical waste pipe. Instead o f feeding directly into the underground drains, this pipe t e r m i n ates over a yard gully - another trap covered by a grid. A separate waste pipe from the kitchen sink n o r m a l l y drains into the same gully. The yard gully and soil pipe both discharge into an underground inspection chamber, or manhole. These chambers provide access t o the main drains for clearing blockages, and there w i l l be one wherever your main d r a m changes direction o n its way to the sewer. At the last inspection chamber, just before the drain enters the sewer, there is an interceptor trap, die final barrier to drain gases and sewer rats.
Single-stack system
Since the late 1950s, most houses have been drained using a singlc-srack system. Waste f r o m basins, baths and W C s is fed into the same vertical s o i l pipe o r stack - w h i c h , unlike the t w o pipe system, is often built inside the house. A single-stack system must be designed carefully to prevent a heavy discharge of waste f r o m one appliance s i p h o n i n g the trap of another, a n d t o avoid the possibility o f W C waste b l o c k i n g othet branch pipes. T h e vent pipe o f the stack terminates above the roof a n d is capped w i t h an open cage; or inside the house and is fitted w i t h an air-admittance valve (see far right). T h e kitchen sink can be drained through the same stack, but it is still c o m m o n practice to d r a i n sink waste into a yard gully. N o w a d a y s waste pipes must pass through the g r i d , stopping short o f the water in the gully trap so that even i f blocked w i t h leaves, the waste can discharge unobstructed into the gully. Alternatively, it can be a backinlet gully, w i t h the waste pipe entering below g r o u n d level. A downstairs W C is sometimes drained t h r o u g h its o w n b r a n c h d r a i n to an inspection chamber.
Ventilating pipes and stacks An air-admittance valve seals off the vent pipe, but allows air into the system to prevent watet being siphoned from Ihe trap seals. This type of valve can only be used if the drainage scheme has been approved by the local authority.
Prefabricated chamber On a modern drainage system, ihe inspection chambers may take the form of cylindrical prefabricated units. There may not be an interceptor trap in the last chamber before the sewer.
Turn-pipe system 1 Seil pipe ZHopper 3 Waste pipe 4 Yard gully 5 Inspection chamber
Single-stack system 11nterior soil pipe 2 All branch pipes run to stack 3 Inspection chamber
SEE ALSO: Plumbing systems 6-8, Blocked soil pipe 17, Yard gully 17, Blocked drains 18
15
MAINTENANCE
Using a plunger
Unscrew the access cap on a bottle trap Usee ptungettoforce out a blockage Using a pump Block the sink overflow with a wet cloth. Fill the pump wifh water irom the tap, then hold its nozzle over the nutlet, pressing down firmly. Pump up and down until the obstruction is cleared. Tubular trap If the access cap to the cleaning eye is stiff, use: wrench to remove rt.
t :
J
#
"
a
Bottle trap This type of ttapcan be cleared easily because the whole base ol the trap unscrews by hand.
16
SEE ALSO: Frozen pipes 9, Plungers 16, 74, Drain auger 17,
UNBLOCKING A WC
If the w ater in a W C pan rises w h e n y o u flush it, there's a blockage in the v i c i n i t y o f the trap. A p a r t i a l blockage allows the water level t o fall slowly. H i r e a larger version o f the sink plunger to force the obstruction into the soil pipe. Position the rubber cup of the plunger well d o w n into the U-bend, and p u m p the handle. W h e n the blockage clears, the water level w i l l drop suddenly, accompanied by an audible gurgling. If the trap is blocked solidly, hire a special W C auger. Pass the flexible clearing r o d as far as possible into the trap, then crank the handle t o dislodge the blockage. Wash the auger in hot water and disinfect ir, before returning it to the hire company.
DRAIN/ I JAG
MAI NT ENA*NCI NCI
Clearing a blockage Use a Cooper's plunger (left) to pomp a blocked WC Alternatively, clear it with e special WC auger (below left).
Clearing a blockage with a hydraulic pump Shift a really stubborn blockage with a hired pump, similar to the one used for clearing a blocked sink (see opposite I
SEE ALSO: Inspection chambers 15, Gas torch 21,77, Drain auger 74, WC auger 74
DRAINAGE
MAINTENANCE
:f
'
A septic tank 1 Inspection chamber 2 Dip-pipe 3 Manhole cover 4 Baffle 5 Filter chamber K Outlet
18
Metal pipes
The a b i l i t y t o i n s t a l l a r u n o f pipework, make watertight joints a n d c o n n e c t u p t o f i t t i n g s constitutes the b a s i s o f m o s t p l u m b i n g . W i t h o u t these s k i l l s , a. h o u s e h o l d e r is r e s t r i c t e d t o simple m a i n t e n a n c e . M o d e r n materials a n d t e c h n o l o g y have made i t p o s s i b l e f o r a n y b o d y who is p r e p a r e d t o m a s t e r a few t e c h n i q u e s t o u p g r a d e a n d extend p l u m b i n g w i t h o u t having t o h i r e a p r o f e s s i o n a l .
Copper
H a l f - h a r d - t e m p e r e d copper t u b i n g is by far the most w i d e l y used material l o r p i p e w o r k . T h i s is because tr's lightweight, solders w e l l , and can be bent easily (even by h a n d , w i t h the aid o f a b e n d i n g spring). It is employed for b o t h hot-water and cold-water pipes, as well as for central-heating systems. T h e r e arc three sizes o f pipe that are invariably used for general d o m e s t i c p l u m b i n g : I 5 m m ( t i i n ) , 2 2 m m (?Sil}, and 2 8 m m ( l i n ) .
Stainless steel
Stainless-steel t u b i n g is not its c o m m o n as copper, but is available in the same sizes. You may have to order it f r o m a plumbers' merchant. It's harder rhan copper, so cannot be bent as easily, and is difficult to solder. It pays t o use c o m pression joints ro connect stainless-steel pipes, but tighten them slightly more t h a n y o u w o u l d when j o i n i n g copper. Stainless steel does not react w i t h galvanized steel (iron) - see ELECTROCHEMICAL ACTION (bottom left). Plastic waste pipes Should you need to replece a cast-iron pipe, ask for one of the plastic alternatives.
Lead
L e a d is never used for any f o r m o f new p l u m b i n g but there are thousands of houses that still have a lead r i s i n g m a i n connected t o a m o d e r n i z e d system. Lead p l u m b i n g that's still in use must be ueariug the end of its life, so replace it as soon as an o p p o r t u n i t y arises. When d r i n k i n g water lies in a lead pipe for some time, it absorbs toxins from the metal, i f you have a lead pipe s u p p l y i n g your d r i n k i n g water, always run off a little water before you use any.
Electrochemical action
Joining pipes made from different metals can accelerate corrosion as a result of electrolytic action. If you live in a soft-water area, where this problem tends to be pronounced, use plastic pipe and connectors when you're joining to o!u pipework - but make sine that the metal pipes are still bonded t o earth, as required by the W i r i n g Regulations. Stainless steel Due lo its superior appearance and strength, stainless steel rs sometimes used where pipe runs are exposed. It does not cause electrolytic action with galvanisedsteel pipes. lead This is still foond in older houses. It can introduce toxins into the drinking-water supply, so should be teplaced.
Iron Iron pipes are used for mains watct supply in some older systems. Iron is susceptible to furring-up and decay, which can result in low water pressure and leaks. Cast iron Is used iorwaste pipes in older buildings.
SEE ALSO: Soldered joints 21, Bending springs 23, Push-fit joints 25-G, Plastic waste pipes 26, Soft water 48, Main switch equipment 68, Supplementary bonding G9-70
19
Corrosion resistance Corrosion can take place between brass fittings and copper pipes. Look for Ihe symbol that denotes corrosion-resistant brass fittings. Soldering capillary joints Solder is introduced to each mouth of the assembled end-feed joint Ifar right) and flows by capillary action into the fitting. The rings pressed into the sleeves of an integral-ring fitting (right) contain the exact amount of solder to make perfect joints
Pipe joints
It w o u l d he impossible t o make strong, watertight joints by simply soldering two lengths o f copper pipe end to end. Instead, plumbers use c a p i l l a r y or compression joints.
5 Unequal tee
? ;
I.I.I.. JtlJ
Capillary joints Capillary joints are made to fit snugly over Ihe ends of a pipe.Theverysmallspace between the pipe and joint sleeve is filled with molten solder. When it solidifies on cooling, the solder holds the joint together and makes it watertight. Capillary joints are neat and inexpensive - but because you need to host the metal with a gas torch, there is a slight risk of fire when working in confined spaces under floors CUT PIPE SQUARE PRIOR TO ASSEMBLY S End cap 9 Tap connector
CAP-NUT
OLIVE
OLIVE
Compression joints Compression joints are very easy to use, but are more expensive then capillary joints. They are also mote obtrusive, and you will find it impossible to manoeuvre a wrench where space is restricted. The end ot each pipe is cut square before the joint is assembled. When ihe cap-nut is tightened with a wrench it compresses a ring of soft metal, known as an olive, to fill the joint between fitting and pipe. 11 Bib-tap wall plate
PIPEWORK METAL
Gas torches
To heat the metal sufficiently for a soldered joint, most plumbers use a gas torch. G a s , liquefied under pressure, is contained in a disposable metal canister. When the control valve o f the torch is opened, gas is vaporized to combine with air, m a k i n g a highly combustible mixture. O n c e ignited, the flame is adjusted until it burns steadily w i t h a clear blue colour. M a n y professional plumbers use a propane torch, which is connected by a hose to a metal gas bottle. T h e average householder doesn't need such expensive equipment, but if you happen to own a propane torch, perhaps for car repairs, you can use the same tool for soldering p l u m b i n g joints.
o Joining stai ill ess-steel pipes The techniques lor joining copper and stainless-steel are Similar- but because the sleel is harder, you will find that it's easier to cut it with a hacksaw. Use an active flu>when soldering stainless steel Isee left).
To ensure a perfectly square cut each time, use a tube cutter. A l i g n the cutting wheel w i t h yout m a r k , and adjust the handle o f the tool to c l a m p the tollers against the pipe (1)- Rotate the t o o l around the pipe, adjusting the handle after each revolution 10 make the cutter bite deeper into the metal. A tube cutter makes a clean cut o n the outside o f the pipe, but use the pointed reamer o n the t o o l t o clean the burr from inside the cut end (2). If you use a hacksaw, make sure the cut is square by w r a p p i n g a piece of paper w i t h a straight edge a r o u n d the pipe. A l i g n the wrapped edge a n d use it to guide the saw blade |3). Remove the burr, inside and out, w i t h a file.
Gas torches A gas torch is used for heating soldered joints. A simple torch (above) is available from any DIY outlet. The propane torch [below] is used by professional plumbers.
Heat the joint to melt the captive solder Lead-free solder Use lead-free solder when joining pipes that will supply d tin king water.
* * SEE ALSO: Pipe fittings 19, 24, 26, Plumbing tools 74-9
21
PIPEWORK METAL
Compression joints
U s i n g c o m p r e s s i o n f i t t i n g s is s o s t r a i g h t f o r w a r d that y o u w i l l b e able t o m a k e w a t e r t i g h t j o i n t s w i t h o u t a n y p r e v i o u s e x p e r i e n c e .
STEEL-TO-PLASTIC CONNECTIONS
Calvani/cd-steel pipe is connected by threaded joints, so if you plan to extend o l d p i p e w o r k using the same material you w i l l need a pipe die to cut the threads o n the end of each length o f new pipe. Y o u can hire a pipe die, but a simpler s o l u t i o n is t o continue the run in plastic, using a n adaptor t o connect one system t o another. O n e end of the adaptor has a push-fit sleeve for the plastic pipework; the other end has a male o r female threaded connector for the galvanized steel.
Assembling a joint
C u t the ends o f each pipe square and clean t h e m , a l o n g w i t h the olives, using w i r e w o o l . D i s m a n t l e a new joint and slip a eap-nut over the end o f one pipe, followed by a n olive (1). L o o k carefully to see if the s l o p i n g sides o f the olive ate equal in length. If one is longer than the other, that side s h o u l d face away from the nut. Push the pipe firmly into the joint body (2). t w i s t i n g it slightly t o ensure it is firmly against the integral stop. Slide the olive u p against the joint body, then tighten the nut by h a n d . T h e olive must be compressed by just the right a m o u n t to ensure a watertight joint. A s a guide, make a pencil mark o n one face o f the nut and o n the o p p o s i n g face o n the joint body (3); then, h o l d i n g the joint body steady w i t h a spanner, use another spanner to turn the nut one complete revolution (4). Assemble the other half of the joint in exactly the same manner. Some plumbers like t o wrap a single turn o f P T F E tape over the olive before tightening the nut, t o make absolutely sure the joinr is watertight. However, a properly tightened compression joint should be watertight w i t h o u t it.
Fitting an adaptor
Use t w o Stillson wrenches to unscrew the joint o n the o l d pipework where you intend to connect up to plastic. Grip the joint w i t h one wrench and the pipe w i t h the other, pushing and pulling in the direction the jaws face (1), If the joint is stiff, use penetrating o i l or play the flame o f a gas torch along it. Threaded connections leak unless they're made watertight w i t h plumbers' P T E E tape. W r a p the tape clockwise two o r three times around the pipe to cover the threads (2), then engage and tighten the adaptor.
Slraighl connector Compression joint to join two pipes ot equal diameter, end to end, in a straight line. 1 Slip an olive onto the pipe after the cap-nul 2 Clamp the joint to the pipe with the nut
Elbow joint A90-degree elbow compression joint connects two pipes at an angle
? Wrap plenty of PTFE tape over the threads Saw through a damaged olive
SEE ALSO: Metal joints and fittings 20, Adaptors 20, Wrenches 78
COPPER-TO-LEAD CONNECTIONS
When replacing a i d lead p l u m b i n g w i t h copper, plumbers used t o make the COBDGCfion to the lead rising main w i t h solder and a b l o w l a m p . It is illegal to make such joints nowadays - and it is also much simpler to use a special leadto-copper compression joint. There are joints for c o n n e c t i n g lead pipes to 15 and 2 2 m m [Vi and Nin) copper pipes. Y o u can use s i m i l a r joints for plastic p l u m b i n g , provided you reinforce the plastic pipe w i t h metal inserts. A l t h o u g h the connector* arc specified a c c o r d i n g to the bore of lead p i p e w o r k , measure the outside diameter o f your r i s i n g m a i n and ask a p l u m b e r s ' merchant to provide a sttirablc compression joint.
Bending pipes
Y o u c a n c h a n g e the d i r e c t i o n o f a p i p e r u n by u s i n g a n e l b o w j o i n t , but there are o c c a s i o n s w h e n b e n d i n g the p i p e itself w i l l p r o d u c e a neater o r m o r e a c c u r a t e result. If y o u w a n t t o c a r r y a p i p e over a s m a l l o b s t r u c t i o n (another p i p e , for e x a m p l e ) , a slight k i n k i n the p i p e w i l l be less o f an o b s t r u c t i o n t o the f l o w o f w a t e r a n d w i l l therefore create less noise t h a n t w o e l b o w s w i t h i n a few centimetres o f each other. It is a l s o cheaper. P e r h a p s y o u w a n t t o r u n p i p e s i n t o a w i n d o w a l c o v e w h e r e the w a l l s m e e t a t a n u n u s u a l angle? B e n d i n g the p i p e s a c c u r a t e l y w i l l a l l o w y o u t o fit the p i p e s n e a t l y a g a i n s t the a l c o v e w a l l s .
PIPEWOF
METAL
Annealing pipe When you are working with large-diameter capper pipe, play the llame of a gaslotch around the area of the intended bend until the metal is cherry red, then allow it to cool. The pipe will bend with minimal effort, using a bending spring
Using the spring Bend the pipe against your padded knee. If you anneal the pipe pipe, (see above I be sore to allow it to cool befote bending it.
FRICTION RING
Supporting pipe runs Place a plastic or metal clip at lm(3ft) intervals along a horizontal tun of 15mm ISiin) pipe. Increase the spacing to every l.5m (4ft Gin] on a vertical run, In the case of larger pipes, increase the spacing a little more.
OLIVE
F" SEE ALSO: Connecting plastic to metal plumbing 25, External spring 76, Tube bender 76
'IPEWORK 'LSTIG
Plastic plumbing
P l a s t i c p l u m b i n g is l i g h t w e i g h t a n d e x t r e m e l y s i m p l e t o a s s e m b l e , ft d o e s n ' t b u r s t w h e n f r o z e n , c o r r o d e , o r a d v e r s e l y affect o t h e r m a t e r i a l s ; a n d , d e p e n d i n g o n the type o f p l a s t i c , it c a n b e used b o t h for cold water and hot, i n c l u d i n g central-heating p i p e w o r k . M o s t p l a s t i c s y s t e m s c a n be c o n n e c t e d t o e x i s t i n g m e t a l p i p e s . P l a s t i c j o i n t s a n d fittings are s i m i l a r t o the ones used f o r m e t a l p l u m b i n g , b u t are t y p i c a l l y l a r g e r i n size. J o i n t s a n d p i p e s are f o r the m o s t p a r t m a n u f a c t u r e d f r o m t h e s a m e m a t e r i a l , b u t there are several s p e c i a l i z e d c o n n e c t o r s a v a i l a b l e f o r j o i n i n g p l a s t i c p l u m b i n g t o taps, t a n k s a n d e x i s t i n g m e t a l p l u m b i n g . T o sec the h u g e v a r i e t y o f p l a s t i c joints, y o u need to browse t h r o u g h m a n u f a c t u r e r s ' catalogues, but the s e l e c t i o n b e l o w s h o w s the m a i n c a t e g o r i e s o f j o i n t a n d e x a m p l e s o f the different types o f c o u p l i n g . Straight connectors For joining two pipes end to end. 1 For pipes of equal diameter- push- fit Tees For joining three pipes. 5 Unequal tee for joining 15mm (Kin) btanoh pipe to main pipe run - push-ft Plastic supply pipes are made to the same standard sizes as metal pipework, but there may be a slight variation i n w a l l thickness from one manufacturer's stock to another.
mijii
3 Elbow 90'
- push-tit
Polybutylene (P8)
A tough, flexible plastic pipe used for hor and c o l d supply, and central heating. Available i n standard lengths or c o n t i n u o u s coils, PB resists bursting when frozen. It w i l l sag i f unsupported.
Fittings Manufacturers supply pipe connectors and valves that can be attached to plastic pipes.
6 Tap connectot with threaded nut for connecting supply pipe to tail of tappush-ft
SStopcock-push-rS
26
Push-fit joints
When the pipe is inserted, an O - r i n g seals in the water in the n o r m a l way and (depending on the model) a special plastic grab ring, o r a collet w i t h stainless-steel teeth, grips the tube securely to prevent water under mains pressure forcing the joint apart. J o i n t s fitted w i t h collets can be disconnected easily, but to d i s m a n t l e the
l
other type o f push-fit joint, it's necessary t o remove the retaining Lap and prise open the grab r i n g , using a special t o o l . Push-fit joints are more obtrusive than their solvent-welded equivalents - but the speed a n d s i m p l i c i t y w i t h w h i c h you can assemble them more than compensates.
Grab-ring push-fit joint A grab ring holds the pips, to resist water underpressure.
PLASTIC PIPE Joining plastic pipe with a compression lilting Insert support sleeve before tightening the joint.
Collet-type joints
Coltel-lype push-fit joint A different type of joint incorporates a collet that grips the pipe. Push-fir joints that i n c o r p o r a t e collets are p a r t i c u l a r l y easy to assemble. C u t the end o f the pipe square, push it intu the socket until it comes up against the internal stop, then p u l l on the pipe to check that the j o i n t is secure. If you need to dismantle a joint, hold the collet in w i t h your fingertips (1) and pull the pipe out o f the socket. J o i n metal pipes the same way, but remove burrs and sharp edges to prevent tearing the O - r i n g . Provide extra grip by slipping a collet clip into the grooved collar (2).
Supporting pipe runs Plastic pipework should be supported with clips or saddles similar to those used for metal pipe, but because it is more flexible you will have lo space Ihe clips closer together Check with ihe manufacturers' literature to establish the exact dimensions. If you plan to surfacerun flexible pipes, consider ducting or boxing-in because it's dilficull to make I really neat installation
Dismantling a joint If you need to dismantle a joint to alter a system, unscrew the cap and p u l l out the pipe. Slide off the rubber O ring, then prise off the grab ring, using a special d e m o u n t i n g t o o l (see fight). Never try to reuse a grab ring. To reassemble the j o i n t , insert the O-ring i n t o the f i t t i n g , followed by the grab r i n g - w i t h its slots f a c i n g outwards. Replace the r e t a i n i n g cap tnd h a n d - i i g h t e n it, ready t o insert he pipe. Push the pipe into the joint, using he technique described above. Never ry to assemble the fitting like a oinpression joint, o r it w i l l b l o w out inder pressure. Prise open the grab ring, using a special tool R e p a i r i n g a weeping joint A push-fit joint o n a s u p p l y pipe may leak i f the pipe is not pushed h o m e fully, o r if the O - r i n g is d a m a g e d . Cutting plastic pipe Polybutylene pipe is easy to cut, using special shears.
PIPEWORK PLASTIC
WASTE-PIPE JOINTS
Solvent-weld joints
Lengths o f pipe arc linked by simple socketed connectors. A s they are assembled, solvent is introduced which dissolves the surfaces of the m a t i n g components. A s the solvent evaporates, the joints and pipes ate literally fused together into one piece of plastic. Solvent-weld joints are sometimes used for supply pipes, but the technique is more c o m m o n l y employed for waste systems. Solvent-weld joint Solvent cement fuses the joint and pipe into a solid component
Joints and fittings As well as the usual types of joint, waste systems also include easy-flow swept bends and lees for efficient drainage.
Tees (T-jointsl 2 Swept tee with access plug push fit 3 Branch 48solvent- weld
Compression joints
So that they c a n be d i s m a n t l e d easily, sink, bath a n d washbasin traps are often connected to the pipework by means o f compression joints that incorporate a rubber ring or washer to make the joint watertight. Compression joint A threaded joint pulls the pipe and fitting together.
Types of plastic
P l u m b i n g manufacturers nave a w i d e variety of plasties to d r a w u p o n , each w i t h its o w n special characteristics. M o d i f i e d i m p last ici zed p o l y v i n y l chloride ( M n P V Q A h a r d plastic, used for solvent-weld waste pipe a n d fittings. It is resistant to most domestic chemicals, a n d is n o t affected by ultra-violet light w h e n used o u t d o o r s . It is slightly more flexible than u P V C , w h i c h is used for soil pipes w i t h push-fit a n d solvent-weld joints. Polypropylene (PP) A slightly flexible plastic w i t h a somewhat waxy feel, used for waste systems. It's impossible to glue PP, so it is assembled w i t h push-fit joints. A c r y l o n i t r i l e butadiene styrene (ABS) A very t o u g h plastic that is equally suited t o h o t a n d c o l d waste. It c a n be either sol vent-welded o r compression-jointed. Bends and elbows Elbow 90oustt-tH
Push-fit joints
Because a waste system is never under pressure, a pipe r u n can be constructed by s i m p l y p u s h i n g p l a i n pipes into the sockets of the joints. A captive rubber seal in each socket holds the pipe in place and makes rhe joint watertight.
5 Bend 90solvent-wetd.
PLASTIC WASTE-PIPE SIZES Overflow pipes Washbasin waste pipes Bath/shower and sink waste pipes Soil pipe
2 2 m m (%in) 3 2 m m (l!4in) 4 0 m m l'/n) 1 1 0 m m (4in)
Push-fit joint A rubber ring inside rhe sleevi rips the end of the pipe.
26
Making compression joints to traps Traps with compression joints are made lor connecting directlytoa plain waste pipe (see opposite I Just slip the threaded nut onto the waste pipe, tallowed by the washer and then the rubber ring. Push the pipe into the socket of the trap end tighten the compression nut.
Repairing a weeping push-fit joint A push-fit joint will leak if the rubber seal has been pushed out of position. Dismantle the joint and check the condition oftho seal.
Replacing a WC suite
R e p l a c i n g a n o l d W C w i t h a m o d e r n s u i t e is a r e l a t i v e l y s t r a i g h t f o r w a r d p r o c e d u r e , p r o v i d e d y o u c a n c o n n e c t i t t o the e x i s t i n g b r a n c h o f the s o i l p i p e . H o w e v e r , i f y o u a r e g o i n g t o m o v e a W C , or perhaps install a second one i n another part of your home, you w i l l have to c o n n e c t to the m a i n s o i l p i p e i t s e l f o r r u n the w a s t e d i r e c t l y i n t o the u n d e r g r o u n d d r a i n a g e s y s t e m . In e i t h e r case, i t is w o r t h h i r i n g a p r o f e s s i o n a l p l u m b e r to m a k e these c o n n e c t i o n s .
CHOOSING A WC CISTERN
High-level cislern Antique-style cisterns are popular for authentically restored period homes.
Cisterns
F r o m .unique-style; high-level cisterns to discreet close-coupled o r concealed models, the choice is so wide that you're b o u n d to find one t o suit your requirements. Before buying, make sure the equipment carries the British Standard ' K i t e m a r k ' o r complies w i t h equivalent E C standards. 600mm 600mm I ligb-levcl cistern If you simply want to replace an o l d fashioned high-level cistern w i t h o u t having t o modify the p i p e w o r k , comparable cisterns are still available from p l u m b e r s ' merchants. Standard low-level cistern M a n y people prefer a cistern mounted on the w a l l just above the W C p a n . A short flush pipe f r o m the base of the cistern connects t o the flushing h o r n o n the rear o f the p a n , while inlet and overflow pipes can be fined to either side o f the cistern. M o s t low-level cisterns are manufacrured from the same virreous china as the W C pan. C o m p a c t low-level cistern W h e r e space is l i m i t e d , use a plastic cistern, w h i c h is only I I 4 m m (4'/;in| from front to back. C o n c e a l e d cistern A low-level cistern can be completely concealed behind panelling. T h e supply and overflow connections are identical to those o f other types of cistern, but the flushing lever is mounted o n the face o f the panel. These plastic cisterns are utilitarian in characrer, w i t h no concession t o fashion or style, and are therefore relatively inexpensive. D o n ' t forget that you w i l l need to provide access for servicing. C l o s e - c o u p l e d cisterns A close-coupled cistern is bolted directly to the p a n , forming an integral unit. Both the inlet and overflow connections are made at the base o f the cistern. A n internal standpipe rises vertically from the overflow connection w i t h the pan to protrude above the level o f the water. Low-level cistern This type of cistern is very common. It is made in plastic or glazed ceramic.
Compact cistern Very slim plastic cistern, for use where space is limited.
600mm Space for a WC Vau will need [a allow a space at leasl 600mm (2ftl square in from ot the pan
WC pans
W h e n v i s i t i n g a s h o w r o o m , you are confronted w i t h many apparently different W C pans t o choose f r o m , but in fact there arc t w o basic patterns a w a s h d o w n pan and a s i p h o n i c pan. S i p h o n i c pans S i p h o n i c pans need no heavy fall o f water t o cleanse t h e m , and are m u c h quieter as a result. A single-trap p a n has a narrow outlet immediately after the bend, t o slow d o w n the flow o f water f r o m the p a n . T h e body o f water expels air from the outlet to p r o m o t e rhe s i p h o n i c a c t i o n . A double-trap pan is more sophisticated and exceptionally quiet. A vent pipe connects the space between t w o traps t o the inlet that runs between the cistern and p a n . A s water flows a l o n g the inlet, it sucks air from the trap system t h r o u g h the vent pipe. A v a c u u m is formed between the traps, and a t m o s p h e r i c pressure forces the water in the pan into the soil pipe. W a s h d o w n pans W a s h d o w n pans w o r k by simple displacement o f waste by fresh water falling from the cistern. T h e y are inherently more reliable than siphonic pans, but make considerably more noise when flushed. F l o o r o r w a l l exit? W h e n r e p l a c i n g a W C p a n , check t o see whether the new- one needs t o have a floor-exit o r wall-exit trap. Concealed cistern Plastic cistern for hiding behind panelling. Close-coupled cislern This type of cistern is designed as pert ol the WCpan
Flo Dr-ex it trap S-traps are connected to a soil pipe that is then passed through the floor
Wall-exit trap The outlet from a P-trap connects to e soil-pipe branch located behind the pan
CHOOSING A WC PAN
Removing an old WC
C u t off the w a t e r supply, then flush the c i s t e r n t o e m p t y it. If y o n are m e r e l y r e n e w i n g a c i s t e r n , y o u w i l l have to d i s c o n n e c t the s u p p l y a n d o v e r f l o w pipes w i t h a w r e n c h a n d l o o s e n the large nut c o n n e c t i n g the flush p i p e to the base o f the c i s t e r n . T h e s e c o n n e c t i o n s arc often c o r r o d e d a n d p a i n t e d - s o it is easier t o h a c k s a w t h r o u g h the pipes close to the c o n n e c t i o n s i f y o u i n t e n d t o replace the entire suite.
Waslidowu pan The most common WC pan, with a simple trap tilled with water.
Cutting a soil pipe Use a chain-link cuttet to cute hroken soil pipe square.
Double-trap siphonic pan Air is sucked out from between the two traps to create a vacuum.
Wall-huug pan A waif-mounted pan, connectedlo a concealed cistern, leaves the floor clear tor cleaning. Unless it is built intolhe masonry, the pan is supported by a metal bra cketf stand.
CUT HERE Removing an appliance If linings are corroded, remove the appliance by cutting through the Hush pipe, overflow and pan outlet Lubricating connecters When installing plastic soil-pipe connectots, smear the surfaces lightly with a silicone lubricant OFF-SET ANGLED
SEE ALSO: Turning off the water 6-9, WC cisterns 28, Chain-link cutter 75
WATER CLOSETS
INSTALLING
Tun dish A special funnel known as atundish allows you 10 detect an overflow from a cistern.
Fixing a new WC pan to ttle floor All manufacturers advise against the old-fashioned method of cementing a WC panto a concrete floot. In fact, guarantees are usually invalidated if cement or a strong adhesive is used, ffytiti can't screw The pan in place {see right), just rely on the bed of silicone sealant to bond the pan to the floor.
Installing a new highlevel cistern A three-piece adjustable flush pipe allows you to hang a high-level cistern to one side of the pan. Fit a flow restrictor in the pan inlet if splashing water is a problem.
Small-bore waste system for a WC The shredding unit fits neatly behind a P-trap WC pan. When situated ins bathroom, the unit must be wired to a flex outlet. Othetwise, il can be connected directly to a fused connection unit
30
: ~ SEE ALSO: Adjusting float values 8, Connecting pipes 19-27, Concealing pipework 31, Overflow Tank connector 49, Fused connection units 72, Float values 81
47,
81,
Choosing a washbasin
Whether y o u ' r e m o d i f y i n g e x i s t i n g p l u m b i n g o r r u n n i n g p i p e w o r k to a n e w l o c a t i o n , f i t t i n g a w a s h b a s i n i n a b a t h r o o m o r guest r o o m is likely t o present f e w d i f f i c u l t i e s p r o v i d e d y o u give s o m e t h o u g h t to h o w y o u w i l l r u n the w a s t e t o the v e r t i c a l s t a c k . T h e w a s t e p i p e must have a m i n i m u m fall o r s l o p e o f 6 m m (!4in) f o r every 3 0 0 m m (1ft) o f p i p e r u n a n d s h o u l d not be m o r e t h a n 3 m (10ft) l o n g .
a
CONCEALING PIPEWORK
W i t h carefully designed pipe runs, it s h o u l d be possible to p l u m b your house w i t h o u t a single pipe being visible. In practice, however, there are always situations where y o u have no o p t i o n but to surface-run some pipes.
Y o u can m i n i m i z e the effect by t a k i n g , care to g r o u p pipes together neatly and keeping runs b o t h straight and p a r a l l e l . W h e n painted to match the skirtings o r walls, such pipes are barely visible. Alternatively, using softwood battens and p l y w o o d , you can make your own accessible ducting to bridge the corner o f a r o o m ; o r construct a false skirting , that is deep enough to c o n t a i n the pipes, F o r total accessibility, you can use propnerary d u c t i n g made from P V O T h i s is manufactured in a range of sizes, to contain grouped o r individual pipes.
Selecting a washbasin
Wall-hung and pedestal washbasins are invariably made f r o m vitreous c h i n a , hut basins that are s u p p o r t e d all r o u n d by a counter top are also available in pressed steel and plastic. Select the taps at the same time, to ensure that the basin o f your choice has holes at the required spacing to receive the taps - or no holes at all if the taps are to be w a l l - m o u n t e d .
Space lor a basin Allow extra elbow room lor washing hair-a space 1100mm I3fi Sin) x 700mm (2tt 4in) should be sufficient. To suit most people, positioo the rim of a basin 800mm 12ft 8ln| from the floor.
Pedestal basins
The hollow pedestal provides some support for the basin and it conceals the unsightly supply a n d waste pipes.
Wall-hung basins
Older w a l l - h u n g basins are supported on large screw-fixed brackets, but a modern concealed m o u n t i n g is just as strong provided the w a l l fixings are secure. Check that you c a n screw into the studs of a timber-frame w a l l or hack off the lath-and-plaster and install a m o u n t i n g b o a r d . If you want to hide pipes, consider some form of panelling. Wall-liung, basin '1..i w
J!
Corner basins
Handbasius that fit i n t o the corner o f a room arc space-saving, a n d the pipework can be run conveniently t h r o u g h adjacent walls o r concealed by b o x i n g rliem m across the corner.
Recessed basins
In a c l o a k r o o m o r W C where space is very l i m i t e d , a small h a n d b a s i n can be recessed into one o f the walls. A l s o , you can recess a standard basin to conceal the- p l u m b i n g .
Corner basin
Recessed basin
H/i
IfiS^I
Counter-top basins
In a large bathroom or bedroom, you can fit a washbasin or p a i r o f basins into a counter top as part o f a built-in vanity unit. Cupboards below provide ample storage for towels and toiletries, while also hiding the plumbing. Counter-lop basin
WASHBASINS
TAPS
Selecting taps
T a p s w h i c h are n o w very m u c h a f a s h i o n i t e m c o m e i n different styles a n d c o l o u r s . N o t a l l taps are b u i l t t o last, s o c h e c k the q u a l i t y if y o u are b u y i n g f o r the l o n g t e r m . C h r o m i u m - p l a t e d brass taps are the m o s t d u r a b l e . C h e c k t h a t the taps y o u are c o n s i d e r i n g w i l l fit the l a y o u t o f h o l e s i n the b a s i n f o r w h i c h they're i n t e n d e d .
Rising-spindle tap Traditional taps are Tiadewith a rising spindle.
RISING
Types of tap
The majority o f washbasins are fitted with individual taps for hot and c o l d water. W h i l e capstan-head taps are still manufactured for use in period-style bathrooms, most modern taps have a shrouded head made of metal o r plastic. A lever-head tap turns the water from off to full o n w i t h one quarter turn only. This type is convenient for the elderly or disabled, who may have difficulty in manipulating other taps. In a mixer tap, hot and water c o l d are directed t o a c o m m o n spout. Water is supplied at the desired temperature by adjustment of the two valves. W i t h a single-lever m i x e r tap, flow rate and temperature are controlled by adjusting the one lever. W a s h b a s i n m i x e r taps sometimes incorporate a p o p - u p waste p l u g . A series of interlinked.rods, operated hy a button o r s m a l l k n o b o n the centre of the mixer, open a n d close the waste p l u g in the b a s i n . Single-lever mixer tap Moving the lever up and down turns the water on and off. Swinging it from one side to the other gradually increases the temperature, by mixing more hof water with the cold. N o r m a l l y , the body o f the tap (which connects the valves and spout) rests on the upper surface o f the washbasin. But it is also possible t o m o u n t it in its entirety o n the w a l l above the basin. A n o t h e r alternative is for the valves to be mounted o n the basin and divert hot and c o l d water t o a spout mounted o n the w a l l above.
Tap mechanisms
O v e r recent years there have been some revolutionary changes in the design of taps that have made them easier t o operate and simpler to m a i n t a i n . R i s i n g - s p i n d l e taps This t r a d i t i o n a l tap design has a washet on the end o f a spindle that rises as the tap is turned o n . It is a simple, rugged mechanism that lasts for years. N o n - r i s i n g - s p i n d l e taps Theoretically, these taps s h o u l d e x h i b i t fewer problems rhan rising-spindle taps, because the m e c h a n i s m imposes less wear o n the washer. In p r a c t i c e , however, the spindle's fine thread is prone t o wear, and there is p o t e n t i a l for m i s a l i g n m e n t caused by the circlip that holds the mechanism in place. C e r a m i c - d i s c taps W i t h these taps, precision-ground ceramic discs are used in place o f the t r a d i t i o n a l rubber washer. O n e disc is fixed and the other rotates until the waterways t h r o u g h them align and water flows. There is m i n i m a l wear, as hard-water scale o r other debris is unlikely t o interfere w i t h the close fit of the discs. However, if a p r o b l e m docs develop, the entire inner cartridge and the lower seal can be replaced.
SPINDLE
The right pressure Some taps imported from the Continent have relatively small inlets and are intended for use with mainspressure supply only. Thesetaps will not work efficiently if they are connected to a low-pressure tank-fed supply.
Non-rising-head tap A spindle that doesn't revolve reduces west on the washer. WASHER
Ceramic-disc tap The rubber washer is replaced with rotating ceramic discs. CERAMIC
DISCS
Fitting a washbasin
T u r n o f f the s u p p l y o f w a t e r t o an o l d b a s i n before y o u d i s c o n n e c t it.
Cranked spanners
It is not always possible t o engage the nuts with a standard w r e n c h . Instead, hire a special cranked spanner designed to teach into the confined spaces below a basin o r bath. Y o u can apply extra leverage to the spanner by slipping a stout metal bar or wrench handle into the other end.
Releasing a lap connector Use a special cranked spanner to release the fixing nut of a tap connector.
SEE ALSO: Turning off the water G, Connecting pipes 19-27, Gas torch 21, 77, Hacksaws 74-5, Spanners and wrenches 77-8
^ | Connecting a basin
O n c e y o u have f i t t e d the n e w taps a n d m o u n t e d the b a s i n securely t o the w a l l , c o m p l e t e the i n s t a l l a t i o n b y c o n n e c t i n g the t r a p a n d waste p i p e , f o l l o w e d by the s u p p l y p i p e s for h o t a n d c o l d water. F i t i s o l a t i n g valves t o the s u p p l y p i p e s , t o m a k e s e r v i c i n g e a s i e r i n the f u t u r e . If y o u arc i n s t a l l i n g a p e d e s t a l b a s i n , fit the t r a p before f i x i n g the b a s i n t o the w a l l .
A proprietary pipe boss is used to connect a basin waste pipe to a singlestack plastic soil pipe. There arc various ways o f connecting the boss, one of the simplest being t o c l a m p it w i t h a strap. M a r k where the basin waste meets the soil pipe, and use a hole saw to cut a hole o f the recommended diameter (1). S m o o t h the edge o f the hole with abrasive paper. W i p e b o t h c o n t a c t i n g surfaces with the manufacturer's cleaner, then apply g a p - f i l l i n g solvent cement a r o u n d the hole. Strap the boss over the hole and tighten the bolt |2). Insert the rubber l i n i n g in the boss, in preparation for the waste pipe (3). L u b r i c a t e the end of the pipe and push it f i r m l y into the boss (4), C l i p the pipe t o the w a l l .
Plumbing a washbasin 1 Tap beck-nut andwashar 2 Flexible copper pipe 3 15mm f>4in} supply pipe 4 Isolating valves 5 Waste outlet (slot faces overflow! 6 Waste back-nui and washet 7 Bottle trap B32mmiminl waste pipe
Pressed-mela I basin When you fit taps to a pressed-metal basin, slip built-up 'top-hat washers OHIO the tails to cover the shanks. The basin itself maybe supplied with a rubber strip to seal the joint with the counter top. 1 will need a combined 1 waste and overflow, like a bath. Counter-lop basin Manufacturers supply a template for cutting the hole in the counter top to receive the basin Run mastic around the edge to seel a ceramic basin, and Clamp it with the filings supplied.
Bottle trap it is easy T remove a O blockage from a bottle ttap, because the entire base of the Irap can be unscrewed by hend.
34
* SEE ALSO: Draining the system 8, Connecting pipes 19-27, Cutting soil pipes 29, Fitting taps 33, Mounting a basin 33, Cranked spanner 77
r-88-, D
Access to a bath Allowa1100x7a0mm (3ft Bin x2ft4inl space beside a bath so that it's possible to climb in and out safely, and For bathing younger members of the family.
Selecting a bath
You can purchase reproduction o r even restored V i c t o r i a n baths in cast iron from specialist suppliers, but they are likely to be expensive, i n practical terms, a cast-iron bath is far too heavy for one person t o handle - even t w o people w o u l d have difficulty c a r r y i n g one to an upstairs b a t h r o o m . A l s o , while a cast-iron bath c a n look splendid when left freestanding in a r o o m , it may be virtually impossible t o clean behind it, and panelling-iii the curved and often tapering shape is rarely successful. Nowadays, the majority of baths are made from enamelled pressed steel, acrylic or glass-reinforced plastic. T w o people can handle a steel bath w i t h ease, and you could carry a plastic bath on your o w n . A l t h o u g h m o d e m plastic baths are strong and durable, some are harmed by abrasive cleaners, bleach and especially heat. It is not advisable to use a gas torch near a plastic bath. So far as style and c o l o u r are c o n cerned, there's n o lack o f choice in any material, although the more unusual baths are likely to be made o f plastic. Nearly every bath comes w i t h m a t c h i n g panels, and o p t i o n a l features such as hand grips and dropped sides to make it easier to step in and out. Taps d o not have to be mounted at the foot o f the bath. M a n y manufacturers offer alternative corner- o r s i d e - i n o i u l t i n g facilities, and some w i l l even cut tap holes to your specification. Y o u can order bath tubs that double as a jacuzzi - but the p l u m b i n g is somewhat complicated, so you w i l l need t o have them professionally installed. Rectangular bath A standard rectangular bath is still the most p o p u l a r and economical design. Baths vary in size from 1.5 t o 1.8m (5 to 6ft} in length, w i t h a choice of widths f r o m 700 to 8 0 0 m m (2ft 4 i n to 2ft Sin]. C o r n e r bath A corner bath actually occupies more floor area than a rectangular bath o f the same capacity, but because the tub is turned at an angle to the r o o m it may take up less w a l l space. By virtue o f its design, a corner bath usually provides some shelf space for essential toiletries. R o u n d bath A r o u n d bath is likely to be i m p r a c t i c a l in most b a t h r o o m s - but i f you are converting a spare b e d r o o m , y o u may decide t o make the bath a feature o f the interior design as well as a practical appliance. Restoring an enamel surface Use a two-part paint system to restore the enamel surface of an old bath. 4
Assembling the ciadle Turn a bath onto its rim to fit the cradh
SEE ALSO: Selecting taps 32, Plumbing a bath 36, Shower mixers 38
35
ATHS INSTALLING
Plumbing a ba
O n c e a b a t h is Fitted close to the w a l l , it c a n be difficult t o m a k e the joints a n d c o n n e c t i o n s - so fit the taps, overflow a n d t r a p before y o u p u s h the n e w b a t h i n t o p o s i t i o n {see b o t t o m r i g h t ) . Set the adjustable feet t o raise the r i m o f the b a t h t o the r e q u i r e d h e i g h t , a n d c h e c k it for level a l o n g its length a n d w i d t h . If the b a t h has s m a l l feet, cut t w o b o a r d s to g o u n d e r t h e m to spread the p o i n t l o a d over a w i d e r area.
Plumbing a bath 1 Mixer tap 2 Mixer-tap gasket 3 Mixer hack-nut and washer 4 Flexible copper pipe 5 Overflow unit 6 Waste outlet 7 Waste back-nut and washer I Deep-seal trap to 40mm II Kin I waste pipe 9 Supply pipes 22mm (Wnl
Shallow-seal trap Use this type of trap when space is limited It musl discharge to ayard gully or hopper, not loa soil stack.
* ~ SEE ALSO: Draining the system S, Connecting pipes 19-27, Fitting taps 33, Stack connection 34
Choosing a shower
A l l s h o w e r s , e x c e p t f o r the m o s t p o w e r f u l , use less w a t e r t h a n required f o r f i l l i n g a b a t h . A n d because s h o w e r i n g is g e n e r a l l y quicker than t a k i n g a b a t h , it helps t o a l l e v i a t e the m o r n i n g queue f o r the b a t h r o o m . F o r even greater c o n v e n i e n c e , i n s t a l l a second shower somewhere else i n the h o u s e - this is one o f those i m p r o v e m e n t s t h a t r e a l l y does a d d value t o y o u r h o m e . Improvements in technology have m a d e a v a i l a b l e a v a r i e t y o f powerful, controllable showers. H o w e v e r , m a n y a p p l i a n c e s are superficially similar in appearance, s o it's i m p o r t a n t t o r e a d the m a n u f a c t u r e r s ' l i t e r a t u r e carefully before y o u o p t f o r a particular model.
Pressure and flow When c h o o s i n g a shower, it s h o u l d he borne in m i n d that pressure and flow are not the same thing. F o r example, an instantaneous electric shower delivers water at high mains pressure, hut a relatively low flow rate is necessary to allow the water t o heat up as it passes through die shower unit. A conventional gravity-fed supply system delivers hot water from a storage cylinder under comparatively low pressure, but often has a fairly high flow rate when measured in litres per minute. A d d i n g a p u m p to this type of system can increase the pressure and flow rare. It is then possible to alter the flow and pressure ratio by fitting an adjustable showerhe.td rhat provides a choice o f spray patterns, from needle jets to a gentle cascade (often called 'champagne'].
Gravity-fed showers
In many homes c o l d water is stored in a t a n k , f r o m which it is fed t o a hotwater c y l i n d e r situated at a lower level. B o t h the hot-water a n d c o l d water pressures are d e t e r m i n e d by the height ( k n o w n as the 'head'] o f this c o l d - w a t e r storage tank above the shower. Provided there is at least one metre- (.Jft) between the b o t t o m o f the tank and the showerhead, y o u s h o u l d have reasonable flow rate and pressure. If flow a n d pressure are insufficient for a satisfactory shower, it may be possible t o improve the s i t u a t i o n either by r a i s i n g the tank o r by i n s t a l l i n g a p u m p in the system.
Mains-pressure showers
Y o u c a n supply some types o f shower directly f r o m the mains. In fact, one of the simplest t o install is an instantaneous electric shower, which is designed for use w i t h mains pressure. A n o t h e r alternative is to install a thermal-store cylinder. Mains-pressure water passes through a rapid heat exchanger inside the cylinder {see right]. Yet another o p t i o n is t o store hot water in an unveiucd cylinder - w h i c h w i l l supply high-pressure water to a shower w i t h o u t the need for a booster pump. Nowadays showers are often supplied Iroin c o m b i n a t i o n boilers, though these often need to run at full flow to keep the boiler firing properly. Before buying a shower, check w i t h the manufacturer o f your boiler to ascertain whether there's likely to be a problem. The tma I-store cylinder Mains-fed water pauses through a rapid heat exchanger on its way to the shower. 1 Mains feed 2 To shower 3 Other outlets 4 Boiler connections
Ii
1 1
1
] aF
Shower enclosures If space permits, choose en enclosed shower cubicle (far leftl. However, there are are a number of screens and plumbing options, which make an over-the-bath showct almost as officiant.
Running trap
Drainage
D r a i n i n g the used water away f r o m a shower can be more o f a p r o b l e m than r u n n i n g the supply. If it is not possible t o run the waste pipe between the floor joists or along a w a l l , then you may have t o consider relocating the shower. In some situations it may be necessary t o raise the shower tray on a plinth in order t o gain enough height for the waste pipe to fall (slope) towards the d r a i n . A n o t h e r way to overcome the problem is to install a special p u m p to take the waste water away from the shower. S h o w e r traps W h e n r u n n i n g the waste pipe t o an outside hopper, you c a n fit a convent i o n a l trap - but these are relatively large, which can make for difficulties w h e n i n s t a l l i n g the shower tray. Y o u c o u l d cut a hole in the floor, o r substitute either a smaller, shallow-seal trap or a c o m p a c t trap that includes a removable grid and d i p tube for easy cleaning. A n o t h e r possibility is t o fit a r u n n i n g trap in the waste pipe at .i coo venient l o c a t i o n , or install a self-sealing valve in the pipe. A shower trap that is connected t o a soil stack must have a water seal not less than 5 0 m m (2in) deep. T h e easiest s o l u t i o n is t o fit a c o m p a c t trap, which is s h a l l o w enough to fit under most m o d e r n shower trays, bur is designed to provide the necessary water seal. O r you c o u l d fit either a r u n n i n g trap o r a self-scaling valve, as mentioned above. Section through a compact shower trap
Cleaning compact traps Compact traps for showers have a lift-out dip tube for easy cleaning.
*~ SEE ALSO: Thermal-store cylinders 37, 51, Boostet pumps 39,42, Unuented cylinders 51
Shower mixers
Installing an independent s h o w e r c u b i c l e w i t h its o w n supply and waste systems requires some p r i o r experience o f p l u m b i n g b u t i f y o u use a n e x i s t i n g b a t h as a s h o w e r tray, t h e n f i t t i n g a s h o w e r u n i t can involve little more than r e p l a c i n g the taps.
INSTANTANEOUS SHOWERS
A n i n s t a n t a n e o u s electric shower is designed s p e c i f i c a l l y f o r connection to the m a i n s w a t e r supply, u s i n g a single 1 5 m m (/tin) b r a n c h pipe from the r i s i n g m a i n . A n o n - r e t u r n valve must be fitted close t o the unit. Y o u c a n i n s t a l l a n instantaneous shower p r a c t i c a l l y a n y w h e r e , so long as drainage is feasible. I n c o m i n g water is heated w i t h i n the unit, so there is no separate hot-watet supply to balance. T h e shower is thermostatically c o n t r o l l e d to prevent fluctuations i n pressure affecting the water rcmpcratiire - i n fact, it switches off completely i f there is a serious failure o f pressure. Y o u can even buy an instantaneous shower w i t h a shutd o w n facility: when you switch off, the water continues to flow for a little while t o flush any h o t water out o f the pipework. T h i s ensures that someone stepping i n t o the cubicle immediately after another user isn't subjected to an unexpectedly h o i start to their shower.
Thermostatic mixers
A thermostatic shower m i x e r is s i m i l a r in design to a m a n u a l m i x e r but it has an extra control incorporated, to preset the water temperature. If the flow rate d r o p s o n either the hot o r c o l d supply, a thermostatic valve rapidly compensares by reducing the flow o n the other side. This is p r i m a r i l y a safety measure, to prevent the shower user being scalded s h o u l d someone run a c o l d tap elsewhere i n the house. Consequently, you c a n supply a thermostatic shower by means o f branch pipes from the bathr o o m p l u m b i n g but try to join them as near as possible t o the cold tank and hot cylinder. T h e m i x e r can't raise the pressure o f the supply, so you still need a booster p u m p if the pressure is low. T h e r m o s t a t i c m i x e r mechanisms are usually based o n wax-filled cartridges or bimetallic strips. Brand-new thermostatic valves respond extremely q u i c k l y to changes o f temperature, but you can expect the rate to slow d o w n as scale gradually builds up inside the mixer. Even when new, reaction time w i l l be slower if the m i x e r is expected t o cope with exceptionally hot water (above 65C/149' F). A t such high temperatures the hot-water ports arc almost fully closed and the cold-water ones almost w i d e o p e n , so there is very little margin for further adjustment.
J
Bath/shower mixers
T h i s type o f shower is rhe simplest to install. It is connected to the existing 2 2 m m (Mitt) hot and eold pipes i n the same way as a standard bath mixer, and the bath's waste system takes care of the drainage. O n c e y o u have obtained the right temperature ar the spout by adjusting the h o t and eold valves, yon lift a button o n the m i x e r to divert the water to the spray head v i a a flexible hose. T h e sprayhead c a n be h u n g f r o m a w a l l - m o u n t e d bracket to provide a conventional shower, o r hand-held for w a s h i n g hair. T h e m a i n disadvantage w i t h this type o f shower is that the controls are u n c o m f o r t a b l y low to reach. Since the s u p p l y pipes are already part o f the b a t h r o o m ' s p l u m b i n g netw o r k , it's i m p o s s i b l e t o g u a r d against f l u c t u a t i n g pressure unless the m i x e r is fitted w i t h a t h e r m o s t a t i c valve o r y o u install a p r e s s u r e - e q u a l i z i n g valve in the p i p e w o r k . If the pressure is insufficient, fit a booster p u m p . D o n ' t f i t a bath/shower m i x e r unless b o t h the h o t a n d c o l d water is under the same pressure, cither high o r low.
Surface-mounted or concealed
W i t h most instantaneous showers, all p l u m b i n g and electrical connections are c o n t a i n e d i n a single mixer cabinet that is m o u n t e d in the shower cubicle o r over the b a t h . However, you can buy showers w i t h a slim flush-fitting c o n t r o l panel that is connected to a power pack installed o u t o f sight - for e x a m p l e , under the bath behind a screw-fixed panel. Eir a stopcock o r miniature isolating valve i n the supply pipe to allow the shower to be serviced.
T h e majority of thermostatic mixers can be used w i t h the e x i s t i n g gravityfed h o t and c o l d supply, but it may be necessary t o fir a booster p u m p . C h e c k the manufacturer's literature carefully since some showers perform well at l o w pressures, while others w i l l be less than satisfactory
SPRAYHEADS
High-performance showers have propagated a new generation o f sprayheads, which offer a variety o f spray patterns. If you're t h i n k i n g o f upgrading an existing shower by installing an electric pump, it's worth finding out whether you can also substitute an adjustable spray he ad. In addition to the standard shower spray, a simple adjustment is all that is needed to produce an invigorating jet to wake you up in the m o r n i n g o r a soft bubbly stream that is ideal for small children. Some sprayheads can also be adjusted to deliver a very light spray while you soap yourself or apply shampoo.
ump-assistetl showers
Power showers
T h e pump-assisted 'power' shower is perhaps most people's concept o f the ideal shower. T h e p u m p delivers water at a constant pressure and flow rate, eliminating the need for the m i n i m u m pressure n o r m a l l y required for a gravityfed shower. M o s t power showers need a head o f about 75 to 2 2 5 m m (3 to 9in) to activate the p u m p when the mixer control is turned o n . A p u m p can be used to boost the pressure and flow rate of stored hot and cold water, but not mains-fed water. Ideally, the c o l d supply should be taken directly from the storage tank not from branch pipes that feed other taps and appliances. T h e hot-water supply can be connected to the cylinder by means o f a Surrey o r Essex flange; this helps eliminate the tendency for the p u m p to suck in air from the vent pipe. If the water is heated by an electric i m m e r s i o n heater, make sure the c y l i n d e r is fed by a dedicated c o l d feed and that the cold-feed gate valve is fully o p e n . T h i s is to prevent the top o f the cylinder r u n n i n g dry and perhaps b u r n i n g out the heater. If the c y l i n d e r is heated f r o m a boiler, make sure the water temperature is c o n t r o l l e d by a thermostat. If the water is t o o hot, the shower c o u l d splutter. Power showers are frequently m a n u factured w i t h an electrically driven p u m p built i n t o the m i x e r cabinet that is m o u n t e d in the shower cubicle. However, some p u m p s are designed for remote installation, w i t h hot and c o l d pipes r u n n i n g to the p u m p then out again to the shower mixer. These freestanding p u m p s can also be used to improve the performance of an existing installation. T h e usual location for this type o f p u m p is next t o the hot-water cylinder in an a i r i n g c u p b o a r d - as low as possible, so that the p u m p remains full o f water. However, there are also pumps that are designed to perform satisfactorily when mounted at a high level - even in the loft, if that is the only o p t i o n available. In such situations, a single-impeller p u m p is best.
Cleaning a sprayhead
Gradually a c c u m u l a t i o n o f lime scaleblocks the holes in the sprayhead, a n d eventually this affects the performance of yottr shower. It's therefore essential to clean the sprayhead, the frequency of cleaning depending on the hardness of the water in the area where y o u live. Remove the entire sprayhead f r o m its hose o r unscrew the perforated plate from the showerhead. Leave the sprayhead o r plate to soak in a p r o p r i e t a r y descalant until the scale has dissolved, then rinse t h o r o u g h l y under r u n n i n g cold water. Before you reattach the sprayhead o r plate, turn o n the shower to flush any loose scale deposits f r o m the p i p e w o r k .
Water Regulations It the shower is mounted in such a way that the sprayhead could dangle below the rim of the both or shower tray, you have to fit double-seal no/i-return valves tn the supply pipes to prevent dirty water being siphoned back into the system
All-in-one power shower The cold supply comes from the storage cistern, and the hot supply from the hot-water cylinder.
A separate booster pump A typical installation with hot and cold supplies being fed through a twin-impeller pump.
High- level pump If this is yout only option, it is best to fit a single-impeller pump between the miner and the sprayhead.
Computer-controlled showers
Electrical installations
Llectrical installations in a b a t h r o o m are potentially dangerous - w h i c h is why they must c o n f o r m to the current Wiring Regulations c o m p i l e d by the Institution o f I dec tri cal Engineers. Before you undertake the w o r k , read the electrical section in this book and check the manufacturers' instructions carefully to make sure y o u understand the requirements for w i r i n g in a bathroom. If you are in any doubt as to the procedure, o r have not had previous experience, hire a qualified electrician. C o m p u t e r i z e d showers a l l o w for the precise selection o f temperature and flow rates, using a touch-sensitive c o n t r o l panel. M u s t panels also include a m e m o r y p r o g r a m , so that each member o f a family c a n select their o w n p r e p r o g r a m m e d ideal shower. Far f r o m being simply a g i m m i c k y sales device, a c o m p u t e r i z e d shower has real advantages for the disabled and for elderly people. These showers are exceptionally easy to operate - and the c o n t r o l panel c a n even be m o u n t e d outside the cubicle, so that it's possible to operate the shower on behalf o f someone else.
SEE ALSO: Cylinder flanges 42, Electricity 69, Electric shock treatment 80
SHOWER TRAYS
Shower trays arc made from a variety of materials, but plastic trays arc the most c o m m o n . T h e relatively cheap lightweight trays tend t o flex slightly in use, so it's p a r t i c u l a r l y important to sea! the edges carefully, using a flexible mastic (don't rely on grout). Thicker cast plastic trays are more substantial and r i g i d , as are ceramic trays. T h e majority o f shower rrays are between 750 and 900mm (2ft 6in and 3ft) square. Y o u can also buy trays that have a cut-off or rounded corner to save floor space. Larger rectangular trays provide more e l b o w r o o m . M o s t trays are designed to stand on the floor and have a surround that is about 150mm (6tn) in height. Some have adjustable feet for levelling the tray; or even a metal underframe to raise it off the g r o u n d , providing a fall for the waste pipe; A plinth screwed across the front of the tray hides the underframe and p l u m b i n g , and provides access to the trap for servicing. Some shower trays are intended to be sunk, so that they arc flush w i t h the floor.
Running plumbing through a partition Conceal pipework in a simple timber partition covered with ceramic tiles or panelling.
ravity-fed showers
Use the procedure b e l o w as a g u i d e t o the stage-by-stage i n s t a l l a t i o n of a cubicle and c o n v e n t i o n a l gravity-fed shower. Ideally, y o u s h o u l d run an independent c o l d s u p p l y f r o m the storage t a n k ; a n d f o r the hoi supply, take a b r a n c h p i p e d i r e c t l y f r o m the vent p i p e a b o v e the hot-water cylinder. F i t i s o l a t i n g gate valves i n b o t h s u p p l i e s . U s e the methods described earlier i n this c h a p t e r for f i t t i n g p l a s t i c o r c o p p e r supply pipes a n d d r a i n a g e , i n c o n j u n c t i o n w i t h the m a n u f a c t u r e r ' s recommendations for the s h o w e r y o u are i n s t a l l i n g .
Plumbing n shower 1 Supply pipe 15mm i -: , 2 Connector (push-tit joints ere (airly common! 3 Shower miser fl Waste outlet 5 Back-nut and washer 6 Shallow-seel trap Mora single-stack waste system, use a deep-seal or compact trap or a waste valvel 7 Waste pipe flOmm(lKtn) S Shower tray
n
H STALLING
Self-sealing waste valve The flexible seal opens under wastewater pressure and then closes to form an airtight seal.
Typical pipe runs Red: Hot water Blue: Cold water Plumbing an instantaneous shower 115mm |t;in| pipe 1 Isolating valve 3 No n-re turn valve 4 Tap connector from rising main 5 Hose to sprayhead
Enclosing a shower
A shower in a cubicle o r over a bath needs t o be provided w i t h some means o f preventing water s p r a y i n g out o n t o the floor. H a n g i n g a plastic or n y l o n fabric c u r t a i n across the entrance is the simplest and cheapest m e t h o d , but it is not really suitable for a power shower. F i t a c e i l i n g - m o u n r e d c u r t a i n track o r a t u b u l a r shower r a i l . Even when a c u r t a i n is tucked i n t o the show'er tray, water always seems to escape a r o u n d the sides of the c u r t a i n , or at least drips o n t o the floor when it is d r a w n aside. F o r a more satisfactory enclosure, use a metal-framed glass o r plastic panelled unit. H i n g e d , s l i d i n g o r c o n c e r t i n a d o o r s operate w i t h i n an adjustable frame fixed to the top edge of (he fray .fiW ihrt/de waits, fifd rhe lower track o n t o mastic to make a w a t e r p r o o f joint w i t h the tray a n d , once you have completed the enclosure, r u n a bead o f masric berween the framework and the tiled walls o f the shower cubicle?
fit tire waste outlet in rhe shower tray ami connect a shallow-seal trap, as for a bath. Alternatively, fir a compact trap that has a removable grill for easy cleaning. Install the tray and run a 4l)mm (lV:in) waste pipe ro an outside hopper. Where the trap is ro connect directly to a soil stack, rather than a hopper, you must use a conventional (deep-seal) trap or a sui'r.titArcwfffWfi/Mp A l t e r n atively, you can fit a r u n n i n g trap or a waste valve (see far right). C h e c k w i t h your B u i l d i n g C o n t r o l Officer. To enclose a shower situated in a c o m e r (sec opposite), construct a stud p a r t i t t c t r u i n mc^nii-.a wd, J', the. i n n e r surface w i t h p l y w o o d or w a l l b o a r d .
C u t a hole in the b o a r d for a flushfittiug shower m i x e r ; o r d r i l l holes for the s u p p l y pipes to a s u r f a c e - m o u n t e d m o d e l . T i l e the inside o f the c u b i c l e w i t h c e r a m i c tiles, u s i n g w a t e r p r o o f adhesive a n d grout. Fit the shower m i x e r and sprayhead to the tiled surface. C o n n e c t the pipework and run it back to the p o i n t o f c o n n e c t i o n w i t h the water supplies. Fit an isolating valve t o each of the supply pipes, then turn off the water a n d make the connections. Once the shower has been tested for leaks, cover the outside o f the partition with plasterboard. Seal around the edges of the tray w i t h a flexible silicone mastic. Finally, fit and seal die shower door.
41
SHOWERS INSTALLING
42
** SEE ALSO: Turning off the water G, Connecting pipes 20-5,25-7, Storage tanks 49, Electricity 69, Supplementary bonding 69-70, Fused connection units 72, Electric shock treatment 80
Plumbing a bidet
A l t h o u g h a b i d e t is p r i m a r i l y f o r w a s h i n g the g e n i t a l s a n d l o w e r p a r t s o f the b o d y , i t c a n d o u b l e as a f o o t b a t h f o r the e l d e r l y a n d for s m a i l c h i l d r e n . B e c a u s e o f the s t r i n g e n t r e q u i r e m e n t s o f the Water Regulations, installing a b i d e t c a n be a n e x p e n s i v e a n d time-consuming procedure. However, if you're content w i t h the s i m p l e r v e r s i o n , i t is just l i k e plumbing a washbasin.
W h e n p l u m b i n g an over-rim-supply bidet, use exactly the same procedures, pipes a n d connectors described for p l u m b i n g a w a s h b a s i n . F i t the taps, waste outlet and trap, then use a spirit level t o p o s i t i o n the bidet before f i x i n g it t o the floor w i t h non-corrosive screws a n d rubber washers. S u p p l y the hot and c o l d taps w i t h branch pipes f r o m the e x i s t i n g b a t h r o o m p l u m b i n g , and take the waste pipe to the h o p p e r o r stack. W h e n attaching the bidet set and trap t o a r i m - s u p p l y appliance, follow the manufacturer's instructions. Screw the bidet t o the floor before r u n n i n g l . i i n m (Vim) s u p p l y pipes and a 3 2 m m (l'/tin) waste a c c o r d i n g to the Water Regulations (see left). C o n n e c t the c o l d supply t o the tank at the same level as the existing supply pipe.
Installing a bidet
Over-rim-supply bidet
This type o f bidet is simply a low-level basin. It is fitted w i t h i n d i v i d u a l h o t and c o l d taps o r a basin mixer, and has a built-in overflow r u n n i n g to the waste outlet in the b a s i n . There's one disadvantage w i t h an over-rim bidet: the r i m is c o l d when you sit astride it.
Plumbing an over-rim-supply hi del 1 Tap 2 Tap back-nut and washer 3 Tap connector 4 Supply pipe Emm C^in) 5 Waste outlet 6 Waste back-nut and washer 7 Trap SWaste pipe 32mm (1KI)
Rim-supply bidet
A more sophisticated bidet delivers w a r m water to the basin via a h o l l o w rim. Consequently, the r i m is preheated and comfortable t o sit o n , A special mixer set w i t h a douche spray is fitted to this type o f bidet, lr incorporates the normal hot and c o l d valves, but a control in the centre of the m i x e r diverts water from the r i m to the sprayhead mounted in the b o t t o m of the b a s i n . Because the sprayhead is submerged when the basin is full, the Water Regulations stipulate that a rim-supply bidet must take its c o l d water directly from the storage tank and there must be no other connections to this cold-supply pipe. Similarly, the hot-water supply must be completely independent and connected to the vent pipe immediately above the cylinder. C h e c k w i t h your water supplier before installing a bider, ro make sure you comply w i t h the regulations.
Over-rim-supply bidet Typical pipe runs. Red: Hot water Blue: Cold water
Rim-supply bidet Typical pipe tuns. Red: Hot water Blue: Cold watet
OveI-rini-supply bidet Inghtl This type of bidet is simple to install. Follow the same ptocedure as fot a washbasin. Rim-supply bidet {tat right! The installation of this type of bidet is complicated by the submerged douche spray. Independent plumbing is essential, and you will need a special miier set to comply with the Water Regulations.
* ~ SEE ALSO: Connecting pipes 19-27, Washbasins 31, Taps 32, Bathroom planning 70
SINKS
SELECTING
Kitchen sinks
If y o u r a m b i t i o n is t o re-create a p e r i o d - S t y l e k i t c h e n , y o u m a y w a n t a r e p r o d u c t i o n B u t l e r o r B e l f a s t f i r e - c l a y s i n k w i t h a separate teak d r a i n i n g b o a r d . Alternatively, by way o f complete contrast, y o u c o u l d choose a stainless-steel sink t o p i n c o r p o r a t i n g a b o w l a n d d r a i n e r i n a s i n g l e p r e s s i n g . If the ' h i g h - t e c h ' l o o k is n o t t o y o u r l i k i n g a n d it's c o l o u r t h a t y o u ' r e after, there arc g o o d - q u a l i t y resin (plastic), enamelled and ceramic sinks available in a variety o f d e s i g n s a n d sizes.
i A
Kitchen taps
F.xccpt for being somewhat taller, kitchen taps are comparable in style to those used for washbasins. T h e y also incorporare similar mechanisms and are f i n e d using the same methods. A kitchen m i x e r , however, has an a d d i t i o n a l feature: d r i n k i n g water is s u p p l i e d to it from the r i s i n g m a i n , whereas the hot water usually comes f r o m the same storage c y l i n d e r that supplies a l l the other hot taps in the house. A sink m i x e r s h o u l d have separare waterways t o isolate the one supply f r o m the other until the water emerges from the s p o u t ; o t h e r w i s e , you must have special check valves to prevent possible c o n t a m i n a t i o n o f your d r i n k i n g water. If you are fitting a d o u b l e - b o w l sink, choose a m i x e r w i t h a swivelling spour. Some sink mixers have a hot-rinse spray attachment for removing food scraps from crockery and saucepans. C o n t i n e n t a l m i x e r taps are s u p p l i e d w i t h small-bore malleable copper tail pipes that are screwed i n t o the base of the taps and joined t o the supply pipes by a compression-joint reducer. Pillar tap fever-operated spray Swivel mixers
TRAP
Anti-siphon trap if your trap gurgles as the sink empties, you could replace it with an anti-siphon trap. This type of trap draws in air to break the vacuum in the waste pipe.
Chopping boards
Wire baskets
44
Installing a sink
Installing a k i t c h e n s i n k is m u c h t h e s a m e as f i t t i n g a w a s h b a s i n or v a n i t y u n i t . A l l e x c e p t c e r a m i c s i n k s w i l l r e q u i r e a c o m b i n e d overflow/waste o u t l e t , l i k e a b a t h . It p a y s t o f i t a t u b u l a r t r a p t o a s i n k , because a b o t t l e t r a p b l o c k s t o o easily.
WASTE-DISPOSAL UNITS
A waste-disposal unit provides a hygienic method o f dealing w i t h soft food scraps reserving the kitchen wastebin for dry refuse and bones. T h e unit houses an electric m o t o r that drives steel cutters, which g r i n d up the food scraps into a fine slurry to be washed into the yard gully o r soil stack. A continuous-feed m o d e l is opcrarcd by a m a n u a l switch: scraps are then fed into it while the c o l d tap is r u n n i n g . To prevent the unit being switched on accidentally, a batch-feed m o d e l cannot be operated until a removable p l u g is inserted in the sink waste outlet. Waste-disposal units are generally designed to fit an 8 9 m m (3!^in) outlet in the base o f rhe sink b o w l . A special cutter c a n be hired t o adapt a standard stainless-steel o r plastic sink. W i t h a sink waste outlet and seal in p o s i t i o n , clamp a retaining c o l l a r to the outlet from under the sink. Bolt or clip the unit h o u s i n g to the collar: every unit is s u p p l i e d w i t h i n d i v i d u a l instructions. T h e waste outlet f r o m the unit itself fits a standard sink trap (not a bottle trap] and waste pipe. If the waste pipe runs t o a yard gully, make sure it passes t h r o u g h the covering grid (see left). W i r e the unit t o a switched fused c o n n e c t i o n unit m o u n t e d above the w o r k t o p , p o s i t i o n i n g it so that it is out of the reach o f c h i l d r e n . Identify the switch t o avoid accidental o p e r a t i o n .
SINKS INSTALLING
Cutting a hole for a waste-disposal unit The supplier of the waste-disposal unit Inr possibly a tool-hire company! will rent you a special cutter to convert an existing sink. The cutlet can't be used on a ceramic or enamel sink.
Waste-disposal unit Units differ in detail, but the illustration shuws the components typically used to clamp a waste-disposal unit to a sink. 1 Sink waste outlet 2 Basket 3 Back-up ting 1 Collar 5 Snap ring G Unit housing 7 Cutlets Waste outlet
'W SEE ALSO: Wiring Regulations 6, 81, Connecting pines 19-27, Tap connectors 24, Washbasins 31, Fused connection units 72, Overflow pipe 81
PPLIANCES
INSTALLING
Self-bore valves
w a s t e f r o m the k i t c h e n o r u t i l i t y - r o o m s i n k . A u t o m a t i c m a c h i n e s s h o u l d have p e r m a n e n t s u p p l y a n d w a s t e systems. D i s h w a s h e r s need a c o l d supply only, whereas w a s h i n g m a c h i n e s m a y be h o t - a n d - c o l d f i l l . W a s h i n g m a c h i n e s t h a t are s u p p l i e d w i t h h o t w a t e r p r o v i d e a faster w a s h i n g c y c l e ; a n d t h e y m a y b e m o r e e c o n o m i c a l t o r u n , d e p e n d i n g o n h o w y o u heat y o u r w a t e r . A n y r e t a i l e r w i l l be h a p p y t o a d v i s e y o u .
1
Water pressure
Appliance valves Typical valves used to connect dishwashers and washing machines to the water supply T h e instructions a c c o m p a n y i n g the machine should indicate what water pressure is required. If the machine is installed upstairs, make sure the d r o p from the storage tank t o the machine is big enough t o provide the required pressure. In a downstairs kitchen o r utility room there is rarely any p r o b l e m w i t h pressure, especially if you can take the cold water from the mains supply at the sink. However, check w i t h your water supplier i f you want t o connect more than one machine.
In-line valve
Right-angle valve
T-piece valve Plumbing a washing machine 1 Supply pipe15mm Kin) 2 Appliance valve 3PVC inlet hoses 4 Machine inlets 5 Outlet hose 6 Standpipe 7 Trap 8 Waste pipe - 40mm (tHin) - to gully
46
SEE ALSO: Draining the system 8, Connecting pipes 19-27, Storage tanks 49
SUPPLYING DRAINAGE
The outlet hose from a dishwasher o r washing machine must be connected t o a waste system that wit! discharge the dirty water into either a yard gully o r a single waste stack not into a surfacewater drain, where detergents c o u l d pollute rivers.
Preventing a floo
Overflowing dishwashers and w a s h i n g m a c h i n e s can cause a great d e a l o f d a m a g e i n just a few m i n u t e s p a r t i c u l a r l y i f the a p p l i a n c e is p l u m b e d i n t o a n u p s t a i r s flat a n d the w a t e r is able t o f i n d its w a y t h r o u g h a multi-storey building.
FLOAT VALVE AIRHOLE RUBBER SEAL VALVE BODY
\PPLIANCES INSTALLING
Air-inlet valves
M o s t overflows o c c u r s i m p l y because the water backs u p the waste pipe and spills out over the standpipe o r sink. A sealed waste system succeeds in o v e r c o m i n g this p r o b l e m - since it does away w i t h the air gap that allows the water to overflow. 1'he a n t i - v a c u u m function is formed, instead, by a fitting that incorporates a small air-inlet valve, which stops the waste pipe s i p h o n i n g the machine. T h e discharge hose from the machine is connected to the nozzle of the vent fitting, and a length o f 4 0 m m ( l h i n ) waste pipe is inserted between the fitting and the washing machine trap under the sink.
Preventing an overflow from a standpipe Fit a special vent with an integral air-inlet valve.
Anti-siphon devices
T he standpipe-and-trap m e t h o d o l d r a i n i n g domestic appliances prevents back-siphonage by venting the pipe to the air, but there are other ways t o deal w i t h the p r o b l e m . If an e x i s t i n g 32 o r 4 0 m m ( l ! 4 o r V/iin) waste pipe runs behind the machine, for e x a m p l e , you c a n attach a hose connector that incorporates a n o n - r e t u r n valve t o eliminate reverse flow. C o n n e c t o r s are available w i t h short spigots (1), o r can be attached t o a standpipe. C o n n e c t i n g to the waste pipe C l a m p the saddle over the waste pipe (2), then use the cutter s u p p l i e d w i t h the fitting t o bore a hole in the pipe, w i t h the saddle acting as a guide (3). 1 Short-spigot ami-siphon connector This type of connector is clamped to a waste pipe that runs behind the machine.
APPLIANCES INSTALLING
Water softeners
H a r m f u l i m p u r i t i e s are r e m o v e d f r o m w a t e r b e f o r e i t is s u p p l i e d to o u r homes, but minerals a b s o r b e d f r o m the g r o u n d are s t i l l present a n d it's the c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f these t h a t d e t e r m i n e s w h e t h e r o u r w a t e r is h a r d o r soft. R o c k y t e r r a i n gives rise t o s u r f a c e - r u n water, w h i c h is n a t u r a l l y soft w h e r e a s i n areas o f the c o u n t r y w h e r e w a t e r r u n s t h r o u g h the g r o u n d , r a t h e r t h a n o v e r it, the h i g h e r m i n e r a l c o n t e n t p r o d u c e s h a r d water.
Installing a water softener may appear to be fairly c o m p l i c a t e d since it involves a great deal of joint m a k i n g - b o t h to fit the valves and branch pipes that supply and bypass the softener and to include the fittings that are necessary to comply w i t h the Water Regulations. T h e bypass assembly allows for the unit t o be isolated for servicing while maintaining the supply of water to the rest o f the house. In a d d i t i o n , you must install a branch pipe before the assembly, in order ro supply unsoftened d r i n k i n g water t o the kitchen sink. Supply your garden tap (see top tight) from the same pipe - there's no need to waste softened water on the garden. Install a n o n - r e t u r n valve in the system, t o prevent the reverse flow o f salty water. A pressure-reducing valve may also be required (check w i t h your warcr supplier). Y o u w i l l need a d r a i n cock, in order to empty the r i s i n g m a i n . Some manufacturers supply an installation kit that includes all the necessary equipment. Y o u w i l l have to provide drainage m the f o r m of a standpipe and trap, as for a w a s h i n g machine. Wire the water softener t o a switched fused connection unit that contains a 3 a nip fuse.
Water softener A damestlc unit, which firs neatly beneath the worktop, requires lopping up with salt.
Hard-water scale
M i n e r a l salts are deposited in the form of hard scale on the inside o f pipes, tanks and, especially, hot-water cylinders. If the concentration o f minerals is very high, scale w i l l eventually block pipework and can insulate heating elements to such an extent that their efficiency is reduced by anything from 15 to 70 per cent. T h e more obvious-consequences o f hard water are the d i s c o l o r a t i o n o f baths and basins, blocked sprayheads, blemished srainless-sreel surfaces and furred-up kettles. M o s t people resign themselves to l i v i n g w i t h these effects - but they c a n be reduced, o r even e l i m i n a t e d altogether, by i n s t a l l i n g a water softener.
T u r n off and d r a i n the mains supply. Fit a T - j o i n r (1) to r u n the supply to the tap. R u n a s h o r t length o f pipe to a convenient p o s i t i o n f o r another stopcock (2) o r m i n i a t u r e valve, and for the n o n - r e t u r n valve (3) if the tap doesn't include one, m a k i n g sure that the arrows m a r k e d o n b o t h fittings p o i n t in the d i r e c t i o n o f flow. F i t a d r a i n c o c k (4) after this p o i n t . Run a pipe t h r o u g h the w a l l inside a length of plastic overflow (5), so that any leaks w i l l be detected q u i c k l y and will n o r s o a k the masonry. W r a p P T F E tape a r o u n d the bib-tap thread, then screw it i n t o a w a l l plate attached to the m a s o n r y outside (8).
Typicat pipe runs A domestic system incorpotating a softener. Red: Hot water Blue: Cold water
48
i * - SEE ALSO: Draining the system 8, Connecting pipes 19-27, Washing machines 46-7, Fused connection units 72, PTFE tape HI
Storage tanks
The c o l d - w a t e r storage t a n k , o r cistern, n o r m a l l y situated i n the r o o f space, supplies the h o t water c y l i n d e r a n d a l l the c o l d taps i n the h o u s e , other t h a n the one i n the k i t c h e n that is used for d r i n k i n g water. A n o l d h o u s e may still have a galvanized-steel tank that has been i n service since the h o u s e was b u i l t . B u t eventually this w i l l c o r r o d e a n d , although it's possible t o p a t c h it up t e m p o r a r i l y , it m a k e s sense to replace i t before a serious leak develops. A c i r c u l a r 227 litre (50 gallon) p o l y t h e n e t a n k is a popular replacement, because it can be folded t o pass t h r o u g h a narrow h a t c h t o the loft.
O n c e the new t a n k is in place, you c a n set a b o u t c o n n e c t i n g the numerous pipes and fittings that are required. Fitting the float valve A float valve shuts off the flow o f water f r o m the r i s i n g m a i n when the tank is full. C u t a hole for the float valve 75nitu (3in) below the top o l the tank. S l i p a plastic washer onto the tail of the valve and pass it through the hole. Slide the reinforcing plate o n t o the t a i l , followed by another washer and a f i x i n g nut, then tighten the fitting w i t h the aid of two spanners. Screw a tap connector o n t o the float valve, ready for connecting t o the l . i m n i (H>in) rising m a i n . C o n n e c t i n g the d i s t r i b u t i o n pipes T h e 2 2 m m l?Mn) pipes r u n n i n g t o the c y l i n d e r a n d c o l d taps arc attached by means o f tank connectors - threaded inlets w i t h a c o m p r e s s i o n fitting for the p i p e w o r k . D r i l l a hole for each tank connector, about 5 0 m m (2in) above the b o t t o m o f the t a n k . Push the fittings t h r o u g h each hole, w i t h one polythene washer o n the inside. W r a p a couple o f turns of P T F E tape a r o u n d the threads, then fit the other washer. Screw rhe nut o n , h o l d i n g the tank connector t o stop it t u r n i n g . D o n ' t overtighten the nut o r y o u w i l l damage the washer, c a u s i n g it to leak. Take the o p p o r t u n i t y t o fit a gate valve t o each d i s t r i b u t i o n pipe, so you c a n cut off the s u p p l y o f water w i t h o u t having t o empty the tank. C o n n e c t i n g the overflow D r i l l a hole 2 5 m m (1 in) below the level of the float-valve inlet for ihc threaded connector o f the overflow-pipe assembly Pass the connector through the bole, fit a washer, and tighten its f i x i n g nut on the inside of the tank. Fit the dip pipe and insect filter. A t t a c h a 2 2 m m (Win) plastic overflow pipe to the assembly. R u n the pipe to the floor, then to the outside of the house, m a i n t a i n i n g a c o n t i n u o u s fall. T h e pipe must emerge in a c o n s p i c u o u s p o s i t i o n , so that an overflow can be detected immediately. C l i p the pipe t o the roof timbers. .Modifying existing plumbing M o d i f y the r i s i n g m a i n and d i s t r i b u t i o n pipes to align w i t h their fittings, then connect them w i t h compression fittings. (Don't use soldered joints near a plastic tank.) C l i p all the pipework securely to the joists. O p e n the m a i n stopcock and check for leaks as the tank fills. A d j u s t the float a r m t o m a i n t a i n a water level 2 5 m m ( l i n ) below the overflow outlet. A d a p t the vent pipe f r o m the hotwater c y l i n d e r to pass t h r o u g h the hole in the l i d . F i n a l l y , insulate the tank and p i p e w o r k - but make sure there is no loft i n s u l a t i o n under the c i s t e r n , as this w i l l prevent w a r m t h r i s i n g f r o m below.
ORAGE
Tank cutlers Hire a lank cutler to bore holes in the tank for pipework. Some cutters are adjustable, so you can dtiil holes of different diameters. An alternative isto use a hole saw clamped to a dtill bit
Bylaw 30 kits
Make sure your new l a n k is s u p p l i e d with a Bylaw 30 k i t , to keep the water clean. T h i s is a ret] u item en r o f all water suppliers. T h e kit includes a close-fitting, l i d that excludes light and insects, and is fitted w i t h a screened breather and a sleeved inlet for the vent pipe. In a d d i t i o n , there should be a n overflow-pipe assembly that is screened to prevent insects c r a w l i n g i n t o the tank, 3 reinforcing plate to stiffen the cistern w a l l a r o u n d the float valve, and an insulating jacket.
Hole saw
Adjustable cutter
Plumbing a lank. 1 Roatvalve 2 Reinforcing plate 3 Tap connector fl Rising main 5 Tank connector 6 Gale valve 7 Distribution pipe 22mm (Mint B Pipe clip 9 Overflow-pipe assembly 10 Overflow pipe 11 Vent pipe
SEE ALSO: Bate value 8, Adjusting a float arm 14, Compression joints 20, Tap connectors 24, Hot-water cylinders 5D-1, Float values 81
^^1 ^^
Changing a cylinder
You may w i s h to replace an existing cylinder because it has s p r u n g a leak, or because a larger one w i l l allow yon to take full advantage of cheap nighttime electricity by storing more hot water, A simple replacement can sometimes be achieved without m o d i f y i n g the p l u m b i n g , but y o u ' l l have t o adapt the pipework to fit a larger cylinder. If you p l a n to install central heating at some point in the future, you can p l u m b in an indirect cylinder fined w ith a double-element immersion heater and simply leave the heat-exchanging coil unconnected for the time being. First switch off and disconnect any i m m e r s i o n heaters from the electrical supply, then drain the cylinder and pipew o r k . U s i n g a special spanner (available from a tool-hire outlet), unscrew the i m m e r s i o n heaters. Disconnect all the pipework, springing it out o f the way while you remove the cylinder. Place the new cylinder in position and check the existing pipework for alignment. M o d i f y the pipes as need be, then make the connections, using P T F E tape to ensure that the threaded joints ace watertight. Fit a draincock ro the feed pipe f r o m the tank, if there isn't one already installed. With the fibre sealing washer in place, wrap P T F E tape a r o u n d the thread of the immersion heater and screw it into the cylinder. Connect the immersion heater t o the electrical supply, then fill the system and check for leaks before you attempt t o heat the water. Check for leaks again when the water is up ro temperature.
50
~ S E E A L S O : Draining the system 8, Connecting pipes 19-27, Compression joints 20, Wiring side-entry heaters 73,
Wiring immersion heaters 73, Electric shock treatment 80, PTFE tape 81
THERMAL-STORE CYLINDERS
A thermal-Store cylinder reverses the indirect p r i n c i p l e . Water heated by a central-heating boiler passes through the cylinder a n d transfers heat, via a highly efficient c o i l e d heat exchanger, to mains-fed water s u p p l y i n g hot taps t o d showers. A n integral feed-and cxpansion tank is n o r m a l l y built on top of the cylinder. When the system is w o r k i n g at m a x i mum capacity, the mains-fed water is delivered at such a high temperature that c o l d water must be added via a thermostatic m i x i n g valve p l u m b e d into the outlet s u p p l y i n g taps a n d showers. A s the cylinder is exhausted, less c o l d water is added. The t h e r m a l store system provides mains-pressure hot water t h r o u g h o u t the house, dispenses w i t h the need for a cold-water storage tank in the loft, a n d increases the efficiency o f the boiler. A valve is needed to prevent the beat from the cylinder 'rhermo-siphoning' (gravity circulating) around rhe centralheating system. T h i s can be a motorized valve o r a simple mechanical gravitycheck (non-return) valve that is opened by the force o f the central-heating pump. A s w i t h all open-vented systems, the feed-and-expansion tank determines the head o f water, and radiators must be lower than the tank i n order t o be filled with water. When the tank is c o m b i n e d with the cylinder, it needs to be situated on the top floor of the house i n order to provide central heating throughout the building. If that is impossible, install a tankless thermal-store cylinder and fit a conventional feed-and-expansion tank in the loft. Thermal-store cylinder 1 Integral feed-andexpansion tank 2 Heal-exchanger 1 Supply pipe lo hot taps/shower 4 Thermostatic mixing value
Invented cylinders
A n unvented cylinder supplies mains-pressure hot water througho u t the h o u s e . T h i s is a c h i e v e d b y c o n n e c t i n g t h e c y l i n d e r d i r e c t l y to the r i s i n g m a i n . M o s t m a n u f a c t u r e r s r e c o m m e n d a 2 2 m m (%in) i n c o m i n g p i p e , b u t i n p r a c t i c e a 1 5 m m (|/:in) m a i n at h i g h pressure is n o r m a l l y a d e q u a t e . A n u n v e n t e d c y l i n d e r c a n be h e a t e d d i r e c t l y , using i m m e r s i o n heaters; o r indirectly, p r o v i d e d y o u are n o t using a solid-fuel boiler.
T h e r e are n o storage tanks, feed-ande x p a n s i o n tanks o r open-vent pipes associated w i t h unvented cylinders. Instead, a d i a p h r a g m inside a pressure vessel m o u n t e d o n t o p o f the c y l i n d e r flexes to a c c o m m o d a t e e x p a n d i n g water. If the vessel fails, an e x p a n s i o n relief valve protects the system by releasing water via a discharge pipe. There are several other safety devices associated w i t h unvented cylinders. A n o r m a l thermostat s h o u l d keep the temperature o f the water i n the cylinder below 65C (150 F). If it reaches 90C (195F), then a second thermostat w i l l either switch off the i m m e r s i o n heaters or shut off the water supply from the boiler. Finally, i f it s h o u l d get as hot as 95C (20S 'F), a temperature-relief valve opens a n d discharges water outside.
D 1
B y l a w s a n d regulations T h e installation o f an unvented hotwater cylinder needs to c o m p l y w i t h both the Water Regulations a n d the B u i l d i n g Regulations. It has t o include all the necessary safety devices a n d be installed by a competent fitter, such as those registered w i t h the Institute of P l u m b i n g , the C o n s t r u c t i o n Industry T r a i n i n g B o a r d , o r the A s s o c i a t i o n of Installers o f Unvented H o t Water Systems (Scotland a n d N o r t h e r n Ireland). Have the i n s t a l l a t i o n serviced regularly by a s i m i l a r l y qualified firter, to make sure a l l the equipment remains in g o o d w o r k i n g order. Y o u must notify the water c o m p a n y and your local B u i l d i n g C o n t r o l Office of your i n t e n t i o n to install an unvented hot-water cylinder.
5 Expansion vessel 6 Mains feed 7 Space-heating flow 8 Space-heating return 9 Boiler flow 10 Boiler return
-DJ I -h i
I "
l<JXy
ft 10
c1 -J
Unvented hot-water cylinder 1 Incoming mains watot 2 Stopcock 3 Line strainer 4 Cold water to laps 5 Non-return checkl valve 6 Pressure Iimiter 7 Pressure vessel B Expension-relief valve 9 Cold-water inlet 10 Immersion heater 11 Hot-water outlet 12 Temperature-relief valve 13 Tun dish 14 Discharge pipe
Solar heatin
S a v i n g e n e r g y is a p r i o r i t y for a l l o f us i f w e are t o p r e v e n t f u r t h e r d a m a g e t o o u r e n v i r o n m e n t f r o m the effects o f c a r b o n d i o x i d e . P o i n t - o f - u s e w a t e r heaters h e l p i n a s m a l l way, as t h e y c o n s u m e e n e r g y f o r s h o r t p e r i o d s o n l y . H o w e v e r , the systems t h a t have b e e n d e v e l o p e d t o h a r n e s s s o l a r e n e r g y offer a m o r e effective a l t e r n a t i v e for h e a t i n g d o m e s t i c water. In c o n t r a s t t o the d e m a n d f o r s p a c e h e a t i n g , w h i c h v a r i e s a c c o r d i n g t o the s e a s o n , h o t w a t e r is r e q u i r e d c o n s t a n t l y t h r o u g h o u t t h e year a n d is therefore w e l l s u i t e d to h e a t i n g w i t h s o l a r energy.
space. In order t o trap m a x i m u m heat from the s u n , the collectors s h o u l d be m o u n t e d o n a pitched roof and face in a southerly d i r e c t i o n . Solar collectors can be fitted, w i t h m i n i m a l structural alterations, t o almost any b u i l d i n g ; and p l a n n i n g approval is rarely required. T h e most c o m m o n way o f u t i l i z i n g solar energy to boost an existing waterheating system is to feed the hot watet from the collectors t o a second heat exchanger fitted inside your hot-water cylinder. T h i s usually means replacing the c y l i n d e r w i t h a d u a l - c o i l m o d e l . A n alternative technique is to p l u m b in a second well-insulated cylinder, which w i l l 'preheat' the water before it is passed o n t o the m a i n storage cylinder. T h i s may involve raising the cold-water storage t a n k in order to feed the new preheat cylinder. Controls A p u m p is needed to circulate the water from the collectors to the cylinder c o i l and back t o the collectors. A programmable thermostat, which operates the p u m p , senses when the panels are hotter than ihc water in the cylinder. COLO-WATER STORAGE TANK PREHEAT CYLINDER*
CGtLECTOF
SAFETY VALVE
EXPANSION VESSEL
HEADER TANK
Cupboard-mounted water healer 1 Isolating valve 2 Cold supply to tap 3 Cold leed to healer 4 Hot supply Irom heater
ft
SEE ALSO: Wiring Regulations B, 39, 69, 81, Connecting pipes 19-27, Hot-water cylinders 50-1
Sealed systems
A sealed system is an alternative to the traditional open-vented method. Water is fed into the system via a filling loop, which is temporarily connected t o the mains. The loop incorporates a n o n return valve to prevent contamination of mains d r i n k i n g water. In place o f a feed-and-expansion tank (sec top right,, a pressure vessel containing a flexible diaphragm accommodates the expansion of the water as the temperature rises. Should the system become overpressurized, a safety valve discharges some of the water. A sealed central-heatmg system offers certain advantages over an openvented system. There is less l i k e l i h o o d of corrosion a n d , since the system runs at a relatively high temperature, the radiators can be smaller. A l s o , because the system is supplied w i t h water under mains pressure, there is no necessity for radiators to be below a feed-andexpansion tank installed in the l o f t - s o radiators can be placed anywhere in the house, i n c l u d i n g in the loft itself. O n the negative side, sealed systems must be completely watertight - since there is no automatic top up - and they have to be made w i t h costly highquality components to prevent pressure loss. A boiler w i t h a high-temperature cutout is required, in case the ordinary thermostat fails. A l s o , radiators get very hot.
Sealed he a tiny system 1 Cold mains supply 2 Filling loop with non-return valve 3 Boiler 4 Safety velve 5 Expansion vesse (sometimes within boiler 6 Pressure gauge J Pump 8 Air-retease poini 9 Jnvented hot-waiei cylinder 10 Hot-water expansion vessel 11 Heating flow to radiators 12 Heating return lo boiler 13 Radiators 14 Draincock
One -pipe systems In an outdated onepipe system, heated water is pumped around the perimeter ol the house through a single large-bore pipe thatfotms a loop. Flow and return pipes diven hot water to each radiator by moans of gravily circulation. Larget radiators may be required at the end of the loop in order to compensate for heal loss. A one-pipe system incorporates a feed-and-expansion tank and a hat-water circuit similar to those used for conventional two-pipe systems
Central-heating boilers
Technological improvements
VENTILATING A BOILER
A boiler that takes its combustion air from w i t h i n the house and expels fumes through a conventional open flue (see far left) must have access to a permanent ventilator fitted in an outside wall. T h e ventilator has to be of the correct size as recommended by the boiler manufacturer - and must not contain a fly-screen mesh, which could become blocked. Refer t o B u i l d i n g Regulations F l - 1.8 for specific guidance. A boiler that is starved o f air w i l l ereare carbon m o n o x i d e - a lethal invisible gas that has no smell. A c u p b o a r d that houses a balancedflue room-sealed boiler must be fitted w i t h ventilators at the top and bottom, to prevent the boiler overheating. COWL
Gas-fired boilers
M a n y gas-fired boilers have pilot lights that burn constantly, in order t o ignite O K burners whenever heat is required. T h e burners may be operated m a n u a l l y o r by a timer set t o switch the beating o u a n d off at selected times. It is also possible to link the boiler t o a r o o m thermostat, so that the heating is switched o n and off to keep temperatures at the required level throughout the house. A n o t h e r thermostat, w i t h i n the boiler itself, prevents the water f r o m overheating. A n increasing number o f boilers have electronic i g n i t i o n . W i t h this system, the pilot is not ignited until the r o o m thermostat demands heat - then, once the boiler reaches the required temperature, valves to the burner and pilot light close, shutting off the fuel supply until heat is next called for.
have m a d e i t p o s s i b l e t o p r o d u c e central-heating boilers m u c h smaller than their predecessors, t h o u g h n o less efficient. T o d a y , gas a n d o i l are s t i l l the m o s t p o p u l a r fuels b e c a u s e , despite advances i n s o l i d - f u e l t e c h n o logy, the d i r t a n d i n c o n v e n i e n c e a s s o c i a t e d w i t h s o l i d fuels c a n ' t be i g n o r e d o r o v e r c o m e . W o o d Gas installers Gas boilers must be in stalled by cam fie tern litters registered with CORGI {Council for Registered Gas Installers). Check, also, ihat your installer has the relevant publicliability insurance for working with gas.
b u r n i n g b o i l e r s were p o p u l a r for a w h i l e - b u t , r e a l i s t i c a l l y , w o o d is best s u i t e d t o r o o m h e a t i n g stoves, p e r h a p s w i t h a small back boiler to provide hot water, rather t h a n as a fuel for c e n t r a l h e a t i n g .
Boiler flues All boilers need some means of expelling the combustion gases that result from burning fuel Frequently this is effected by connecting I he boiler to a conuenlionalflueor chimney that takes the gases directly to the outside, Alter natively, some boilers, known as room sealed balanced-flue boilers, are mounted on an external wall and the Hue gases are passed to the outside through a short horizontal duct. Balanced-Hue ducts are divided into two passages-one for the ou(going floe gases, and the other for the incoming air needed for efficient combustion. All boilers can be connected to a conventional flue, but gas and oil-fired boilers are also made for balanced-flue systems. If the boiler is Ian-assisted, it can be mounted at a distance o!upto3m|9ft9in) from the balanced-flue outlet
Heating requirements
T h e capacity- (heat output) o f the boiler needed to satisfy your requirements c a n be calculated by adding up the manufacturer's specified heat output o f all the radiators, plus a 3 k W allowance for a hot-water cylinder. Ten percent is added to allow for exceptionally c o l d weather. T h e overall calculation is affected by the heat lost through the walls and ceiling, and also by the number o f air changes caused by ventilation. Some p l u m b e r s ' merchants w i l l make rhe relevant calculations for you, i f you provide them w i t h the dimensions o f each r o o m . Alternatively, you can calculate your requirements yourself, using a software package produced for use with a home computer. There are also purpose-made calculators k n o w n as M e a r s wheels, which can be hired, c o m plete w i t h instructions, from a supplier of central-heating equipment. Ideal r o o m temperarures A central-heating designer and installer n o r m a l l y aims at providing a system that w i l l heat rooms to the tern pe rat tires shown below, assuming an o u t d o o r temperature o f 1C (30F).
lil-fired boilers
Pressure-jet oil-fired boilers are fitted w i t h controls s i m i l a r t o the ones for g.i. boilers described above, t M boilercan be floor-standing o r w a l l - m o u n t e d . To run oil-fired central heating, you need a large oil-storage tank outside, with easy access for delivery tankers.
Solid-fuel boilers
Solid-fuel boilers are invariably floors t a n d i n g and require a conventional flue. Back boilers are small enough to be built i n t o a fireplace. Instant c o n t r o l o f heat isn't possible w i t h a solid-fuel boiler - the rate at which the fuel is burnt is usually c o n trolled by a thermostatic d a m p e r and sometimes by a fan. T h e system must have some means for the heat to escape in the event o f the circulation p u m p failing (otherwise, the water c o u l d b o i l in the appliance and damage it). T h i s is usually arranged by means of a natural-convection circuit (pipe) that leads from the boiler and the heat exchanger in the domestic hotwater cylinder to a radiator situated in the b a t h r o o m , where the excess hear can be used to dry wet towels. If a solid-fuel boiler is to continue b u r n i n g , it has to be kept stoked - so some models are made w i t h a hopper feed that tops them up automatically. Y o u need a suitable place to store fuel for the b o i l e r ; and the residual ash has to be removed regularly.
ROOM TEMPERATURE Living room Dining room Kitchen Hall/landing Bedroom Bathroom 21 C{70F)
D
2T C(70F)
,
SEE ALSO: Condensing boilers 55, Room heaters 56, 71, Thermostats 57,81
Radiators
Condensing boilers
Condensing boilers extract more hear from rile fuel than other types o f boiler. This is achieved either by passing the water through a highly efficient heat exchanger o r by having a secondary heat exchanger that uses heat from the flue to 'preheat' c o o l water returning from the radiators. W i t h a c o n v e n t i o n a l b o i l e r , the moisture w i t h i n the exhaust gases passes t h r o u g h the flue as s t e a m . Since a c o n d e n s i n g b o i l e r extracts more heat f r o m the gases, m u c h o f the moisture they c o n t a i n condenses w i t h i n the boiler. T h e water thus produced is collected at the b o t t o m of the c o m b u s t i o n c h a m b e r a n d drained t h r o u g h a s m a l l pipe. A n o t h e r by-product o n a cold d a m p day is a light cloud o f water vapour at the flue outlet, where the relatively c o o l exhaust gases meet the outside air. T h i s could be a nuisance if the flue is sited close to a neighbour's window. There are regulations governing d i e siting o f balanced flues - check the requirements with your B u i l d i n g C o n t r o l Officer. HEATING RETURN HEATING PLOW T h e h o t w a t e r f r o m a c e n t r a l - h e a t i n g b o i l e r is p u m p e d a l o n g s m a l l b o r e p i p e s c o n n e c t e d t o r a d i a t o r s (or c o n v e c t o r s ) , m o u n t e d at strategic p o i n t s to heat i n d i v i d u a l r o o m s a n d h a l l w a y s . T h e s t a n d a r d r a d i a t o r is a d o u b l e - s k i n n e d p r e s s c d - m e t a l p a n e l , w h i c h is heated by the h o t w a t e r that flows t h r o u g h it. D e s p i t e its n a m e , a r a d i a t o r e m i t s o n l y a f r a c t i o n o f its o u t p u t as r a d i a n t heat - the rest b e i n g delivered b y n a t u r a l c o n v e c t i o n as t h e s u r r o u n d i n g a i r c o m e s i n t o c o n t a c t w i t h the h o t surfaces o f the r a d i a t o r . A s the w a r m e d a i r rises t o w a r d s the c e i l i n g , c o o l e r a i r flows i n a r o u n d the r a d i a t o r , a n d t h i s a i r i n t u r n is w a r m e d a n d m o v e s u p w a r d s . A s a r e s u l t , a v e r y gentle c i r c u l a t i o n o f a i r t a k e s p l a c e i n the r o o m , a n d the t e m p e r a t u r e g r a d u a l l y rises to the o p t i m u m set o n the r o o m thermostat.
Panel radiators
R a d i a t o r s are available i n a w i d e range of sizes. T h e larger they are, the greater their heat o u t p u t . O u t p u t for a given size c a n be increased further by using 'double r a d i a t o r s ' , w h i c h are made by j o i n i n g t w o panels o n e b e h i n d the other. M o s t types of r a d i a t o r have fins attached to their rear faces to induce convected heat. T h e bandwheel valve at one end o f the radiator turns the flow o f water o n or off; the lockshield valve at the other end is set to balance the system, then left alone. A n ordinary handwheel valvecan be fitted at cither end o f a radiator, regardless of the direction o f flow. H o w ever, thermostatic valves, which regulate the temperature of i n d i v i d u a l radiators, are marked w i t h arrows to indicate rbc direction o f flow a n d must be fitted accordingly. A bleed valve, fitted at one of the t o p corners, is used to release a i r that has g r a d u a l l y built up inside the radiator. A i r trapped inside a radiator prevents the panel from heating properly
Oecorative radiators As a rule, flat-panel radiators are designed to be as innocuous as passible. I you prefer F something more conspicuous, choose from One of the more colourful ranges Some radiators arc chromed.
Condensing boiler
Combination bailers
C o m b i n a t i o n boilers provide both hot water to a sealed heating system and a separate supply of instant hot water directly to taps and showers. T h e advantages are ease of installation (thereare no tanks o r pipes in the loft), spacesaving (there's n o hot-water storage cylinder) and economy (you heat only the water you use). T h e m a i n drawback is a fairly slow flow rate - so it takes longer to fill a b a t h , and it's not usually possible to use t w o hot taps at the same time. C o m b i n a t i o n boilers are therefore best suited to s m a l l households o r flats. However, to overcome these problems, the newer generation o f c o m b i n a t i o n boilers incorporate a s m a l l built-in hot-water storage tank.
Panel radiator 1 A manual handwheel valve turns the flow on or off. 2 A lockshield valve is set to balance the system. 3 A bleed valve disperses airlocks.
a in"
IINIIHHH
BMW
Heat emission As it's heated bv the radiator, convected air Hows upwards and is replaced by cooler air near the base of the radiator. In addition, heat radiates from the surface of the panel
Radiator cabinets
Whereas a standard panel r a d i a t o r may suit a m o d e r n interior, it can l o o k out of place in a period-style r o o m . O n e s o l u t i o n is t o enclose the r a d i a t o r in a cabinet that's more in keeping w i t h the character of the interior. T h e cabinet must be ventilated to a l l o w air i n t o the b o t t o m and for the convected w a r m air to exit f r o m the top. A perforated panel is usually fitted across the front to dissipate the heat and add to the unit's appearance. Cabinets are available in k i t form to fit standard-size radiators. Alternatively, you can cut custom-made panels from M D F board. M a k i n g y o u r o w n cabinet A radiator cabinet can be designed to stand o n the floor o r t o be h u n g o n the wall at s k i r t i n g height. A floor-standing version is described here. C u t the shelf member (1) and t w o end panels (2) from 18mm (%in) M D F . M a k e these components large enough to enclose the radiator and both valves. C u t a notch near the base of each end panel to fit the profile o f the skirtings. G l u e the panels to the shelf w i t h dowels joints, and dowel a 50 x 25mm (2 x fin) tie tail (3) between the sides at s k i r t i n g level. C u t a new skirting m o u l d i n g (4) to fit a l o n g the base of the cabinet, but first cut away the bottom edge of the m o u l d i n g o n the front to form a large vent. C o m p l e t e the box by a p p l y i n g a decorative m o u l d i n g (5) iiround the edge o f the shelf. C u t a f r o m panel (6) from either perforated h a r d b o a r d , M D F , a l u m i n i u m sheet o r b a m b o o lattice, and mount it in a rebated M D F frame (7). M a k e the frame fit the box, leaving a vent along the t o p edge. H o l d the frame in place with magnetic catches. Paint rhe cabinet a n d , when it is dry, attach it to the w a l l w i t h metal corner brackets o r m i r r o r plates. Floor.standing radiator cabinet 1 Shelf Z End panel 3 Tie rail (Skirting S Moulding G Perforated panel 7 Frame
Skirting radiators
A s k i r t i n g r a d i a t o r is a space-saving alternative t o a c o n v e n t i o n a l panel r a d i a t o r a n d is designed for i n s t a l l a t i o n i n place o f a w o o d e n s k i r t i n g b o a r d . T h e t w i n c o p p e r - l i n e d waterways a n d the outer c a s i n g are f o r m e d f r o m a single a l u m i n i u m e x t r u s i o n . M a d e i n 6 m (19ft Sin) lengths and available i n v a r i o u s finishes, s k i r t i n g r a d i a t o r s arc cut to length then joined at the corners o f the r o o m , u s i n g c o n ventional soldered pipe joints. T h e p i p e w o r k a n d valves are hidden from view, but are readily accessible. A n e l e c t r i c a l l y heated version is a l s o available-,
I s
( -"Ira
Thermostats
Bo 1er-energy manager
Room thermostat
ZONE-CONTROL VALVES
There's very little point in heating rooms that aren't being used. I n m o s t * 1 IITierS 3 0 0 p r O g r a i T l l T i e i S households, for example, the bedrooms are unoccupied for the greater part o f You c a n cut fuel bills substantially by the day and to heat them continuously ensuring that the heating is not o n while would be wasteful. you arc out o r asleep. A timer can be set so that the system is switched on to w a r m the house before you get up and One way o f avoiding such waste is t o goes off just before you leave for w o r k , divide your central-heating system i n t o then comes on again shortly before you circuits o r '/ones' (the usual ones being return home and goes off at bedtime. upstairs and downstairs) and t o heat T h e simpler timers provide t w o ' o n ' and the whole house only when necessary. However, i f you divide your house into zones, make sure the tmheated areas are adequately ventilated, in order t o prevent condensation. C o n t r o l is provided by motorized valves linked to a timer o r programmer that directs the heated water through selected pipes at predetermined times of day. Alternatively, zone valves linked to individual thermostats can be used to provide separate temperature control for each zone.
two 'off' settings, which are n o r m a l l y repeated every day. A manual override enables you t o alter the times for weekends and other changes in routine. M o r e sophisticated devices, k n o w n as p r o g r a m m e r s , offer a larger number of on-off programs - even a different one for each day of the week - as well as c o n t r o l o f domestic hot water.
Programmer or timer
Keating controls There area number ot ways to control heating 1 A wiring centre connects the controls in the system. Z A programmer/timer is used in conjunction with a none valve to switch the boiler on or oil at ore-set limes, and run the heaUng and hotwater systems. 3 Optional boiler-energy manager controls the efficiency of the heating system. 4 Room thetmostats are used to conltol the pump or zone valves to regulate the overall temperature. 5 A non-electrical thermostatic radiator valve controls the temperature ol an individual heater.
P u m p thermostat or timer is set incorrectly o r is faulty. \ j I Adjust thermostat or timer setting. If that has no effect, switch off power and check wiring connections. If they are in good order, call in an engineer.
Water leaking from system \ Area at top of radiator stays cool, j though bottom is warm
! A i r l o c k at top o f radiator is preventing water circulating fully. Bleed radiator to release trapped air. Loose pipe unions at joints, p u m p connections, b o i l e r connections, etc. Turn off boiler (or close down solidfuel appliance, raking out coals) and switch off pump, then tighten leaking joints. If this has no effect, drain the system and remake joints completely. Split o r punctured pipe. Wrap rags around the damaged pipe temporarily, then switch off boiler and pump and make a temporary repair with hose or commercial leak sealant. Drain the system and fit new pipe.
\ Cool patch in centre of radiator, I though top and ends are warm
i Deposits of rust at bottom o f radiator i are restricting circulation of water. ! Close both radiator valves, remove i radiator and flush out.
SEE ALSO: Draining the system 8, Repairing leaks 9, Float values 13, Pipework 19-27, Plumbing joints 21-5, Bleed ualve 61, Removing/replacing radiators 61, 63
Draincuck key A special tool, similar in principle to a radiator-valve key, is available for operating draincocks.
Power-llusbing the system After upgrading an older system, perhaps with a new boiler or radiators, you could flush the system yourself I see left), but it's advisable to have it cleansed thoroughly by a heating engineer, using a power-flushing unit When it is connected, the unit pumps chemicallytreated water through the system to flush out impurities.
SEE ALSO: Turning off the water G-9, Gully 17, Rleeding radiators 61, Bleeding a pump 64
59
SERVICING SCHEMES
Tt pays to have your central-heating system serviced regularly. C h e c k the Y e l l o w Pages for a suitable engineer, or ask the o r i g i n a l installer o f the system if he o r she is w i l l i n g to undertake the necessary servicing.
Servicing gas boilers Any maintenance that involves dismantling any part of a gas boiler must be carried out by aCORGI-registered engineer, who should undertake all the necessary gas-safety checks as part of the service. Ihete'sno aoint in attempting to service the boiler yourself if you are not qualified and equipped to do so - it can also be dangerous, and you wilibe breaking the law
Gas installations
C a s suppliers offer a choice o f servicing schemes for boilers. These are primarily provided t o cover the suppliers' own installations, but they w i l l also service systems put in by other installers if a satisfactory inspection of the installation by the supplier is carried out first. T h e simplest o f the schemes provides for an annual check and adjustment of the boiler. If any repairs are found to he necessary', either at the time of the regular check or at other times d u r i n g the year, then the labour and necessary parts are charged separately. Hut for an extra fee it is possible to have both free labour and free parts for boiler repairs at any time of year. T h e gas supplier w i l l also extend the arrangement to include inspection of the whole heating system when rhe boiler is being checked, plus free parts and labour for repairs to the system. Y o u may find that your installer or a local f i r m o f C O R G I heating engineers offers a s i m i l a r choice of servicing and maintenance contracts. T h e best course is t o compare the schemes and decide which gives greatest value for money.
Reducing corrosion
D r a i n about half a litre (I pint) o f water from the boiler o r a radiator. O r a n g e water denotes rusting, and black the presence o f sludge. In either case, treat immediately w i t h corrosion inhibitor. If there are no obvious signs o f c o r r o s i o n , c o m p a r e the sample w i t h tap water. D r o p t w o p l a i n sreel nails into a screw-top glass jar c o n t a i n i n g some o f the sample water, and place t w o s i m i l a r nails in a jar o f clean tap water. A f t e r a couple o f days the nails in the tap water s h o u l d rust; but if your heating system contains sufficient c o r r o s i o n inhibitor, the nails in the sample jar w i l l remain bright. If they show signs o f c o r r o s i o n , your system needs t o p p i n g up w i t h inhibitor. It is i m p o r t a n t to use the same product that is already present in the system i f you don't k n o w what that is, d r a i n and flush the system, then refill w i t h fresh water and inhibitor. If the test proves inconclusive, check the sample jar after a m o n t h o r so: if the nails have begun to rust, then the i n h i b i t o r needs t o p p i n g up. Adding corrosion inhibitor Y o u can slow d o w n corrosion by adding a proprietary corrosion inhibitor t o the water. T h i s is best done when the system is first installed but the inhibitor can be introduced into rhe system at any time, provided the boiler is descaled before d o i n g so. If the system has been r u n n i n g for some time, it is better t o flush tt out firsr bv d r a i n i n g and refilling it repeatedly until the water runs clean. Otherwise, drain off about 20 litres (4 gallons) o f water enough ro empty the feed-and-expansion tank and a small amount of pipework - then pour the inhibitor into the tank and restore the water supply, which w i l l carry the inhibitor into the pipes. A b o u t .5 litres (1 gallon) w i l l be enough for most systems, but check the manufacturer's instructions. Finally, switch on the p u m p to distribute the inhibitor throughout the system.
Oil-fired installations
Both installers o f oil-fired centralheating systems and suppliers o f fuel o i l offer servicing and maintenance contracts s i m i l a r t o those outlined above for gas-fired systems. T h e choice of schemes available ranges from a simple annual check-up to complete cover for parts and l a b o u r whenever repairs are necessary. A s w i t h the schemes for gas, it pays to shop a r o u n d and make a comparison of the various services on offer and the charges that apply
f Dealing gas boilers Modern boilers fit snugly into standard kitchen cupboards
R e d u c i n g scale Y o u can buy low-voltage coils t o create a magnetic Held that w i l l prevent the hear exchanger o f your boiler becoming coated w i t h scale. However, unless you have soft water in your area, rhe only way ro actually avoid hard water in the system is ro install a water softener. Phosphate balls are sometimes used to prevent the f o r m a t i o n o f scale i n an instantaneous boiler. But unless the dispenser is regulated to release just the right a m o u n t , there's a danger of overdosing the system w i t h phosphates. Before fitting any device to reduce scale, it is essential t o seek the b o i l e r manufacturer's advice.
Solid-fuel systems
If y o u have a solid-fuel system, it is i m p o r t a n t to keep the chimney and the flueway swept. T h e job, which should be done twice a year, is very s i m i l a r to sweeping an open-fire chimney, access being either through the front of a r o o m heater that has a back boiler or through a soot d o o r in the flue pipe or chimney breast. W h e n you have swept the chimney, clean out the boiler w i t h a stiff brush and remove the dust and soot w i t h a v a c u u m cleaner. L i f t out any broken fire bars and d r o p new ones in place.
60
REMOVING A RADIATOR
There are a n u m b e r o f reasons w h y 1 may be necessary t o remove a radiator - for example, t o make decorating the wall behind it easier. Y o u can remove individual radiators w i t h o u t having to drain the w h o l e system. Make sure you have plenty o f rag t o hand for m o p p i n g up spilled water, plus a jug and a large b o w l . T h e water in the radiator w i l l be very d i r t y - so, if possible, roll back the floorcovering before you start. Shut off both valves, t u r n i n g the shank o f the i o c k s h i e l d valve clockwise with a key o r an adjustable spanner (1). Note the number of turns needed t o close it, so that later you can reopen it by the same amount. Unscrew the cap-nut that keeps the handwheel valve o r Iockshield valve attached to the adaptor in the end of the radiator (2). H o l d the jug under the joint and open the bleed valve slowly to let the water d r a i n out. Transfer the water from the jug to the b o w l , and continue d o i n g this until no more water can be drained off. Unscrew the cap-nut that keeps the other valve attached to the radiator, lift the radiator free f r o m its w a l l brackets, and drain any r e m a i n i n g water i n t o the bowl (3). If you're going to decorate the w a l l , unscrew the brackets. To replace the radiator, screw the brackets back in place, then rehang the radiator and tighten the cap-nuts o n both valves. C l o s e the bleed valve and reopen both radiator valves (open the Iockshield valve by the same n u m b e r of turns y o u used when closing it). Last of a l l , bleed the air f r o m the radiator.
Bleeding a radiator
F i r s t switch off the c i r c u l a t i o n p u m p and preferably turn off the boiler too, a l t h o u g h that is not v i t a l . E a c h radiator has a bleed valve at one o f its top corners, identifiable by a square-section shank in the centre of the round b l a n k i n g plug. Y o u s h o u l d have been given a key to fir these shanks by the installer; but if not, o r if you have inherited an o l d system, you c a n buy a key for bleeding radiators at any D 1 Y shop o r ironmonger's. Use the key t o turn the valve's shank a n t i c l o c k w i s e about a quarter of a t u r n . It s h o u l d n ' t be necessary to turn it further - but have a small container handy t o catch s p u r t i n g water, in case you open the valve too far. Y o u w i l l probably also need some rags to m o p up water that dribbles f r o m the valve. D o n ' t try t o speed up the process by o p e n i n g the valve further than necessary t o let the air out - that is likely ro produce a deluge o f water. Y o u w i l l hear a hissing sound as the air escapes. Keep the key o n the shank of the valve; then when the hissing stops and the first dribble of water appears, close the valve tightly. B l o c k e d bleetl valve If no water o r air comes out when you attempt to bleed a radiator, check whether the feed-and-expansion tank i n rhe loft is empty. If the t a n k is full o f water, then the bleed valve is probably blocked w i t h paint. C l o s e the inlet and outlet valve at each end o f the radiator, then remove the screw f r o m the centre of the bleed valve. C l e a r the hole w i t h a piece o f wire, and reopen one o f the radiator valves slightly to eject some water f r o m the hole. C l o s e the radiator valve again and refit the screw in the bleed valve. O p e n b o t h r a d i a t o r valves and test the bleed valve again.
2 Unsctew cap-net
VALVE HEAD
Leaking spindle To stop a leek from a radiator-valve spindle, lighten the gland nut with a spanner. If the leak persists, undo the nut and wind a few turns of PTFE tape down into the spindle.
4 Fit new adaptor, then fil the new valve on the pipe
62
SEE ALSO: Draining the system 59, Adjustable spanner 77, Pipe wrench 78, PTFE tape 81
Replacing a radiator
Try to o b t a i n a new r a d i a t o r exactly the s a m e size as the o n e you're p l a n n i n g t o replace. T h i s makes the j o b r e l a t i v e l y easy.
Simple replacement
D r a i n the o l d r a d i a t o r and remove it from the w a l l . T h e n unscrew the t w o valve adaptors at the b o t t o m o f the radiator, u s i n g an adjustable spanner or a hexagonal r a d i a t o r spanner. Next, use a bleed key to unscrew the bleed valve; then remove b o t h o f the b l a n k i n g plugs f r o m the top o f the radiator, using a r a d i a t o r s p a n n e r (1). C l e a n any c o r r o s i o n f r o m the threads o f the a d a p t o r s a n d b l a n k i n g plugs w i t h w i r e w o o l (2), then w i n d four o r five turns o f P T F E tape r o u n d the threads (3), Screw the plugs and adaptors into the new r a d i a t o r ; and then screw the bleed valve i n t o its blanking plug. H a n g the new r a d i a t o r o n the w a l l brackets and connect the valves to their adaptors. O p e n the valves, then fill and bleed the radiator. 1 Removing the plugs Use a radiator spanner to unscrew the two blanking plugsatthe top of the radiator.
I Tianstetting the measurements Measure the positions ol the radiator brackets and transfer these dimensions to the wall.
1 Cleaning the threads Use wire wool to clean any corrosion from the threads of the blanking plugs and valve adaptors.
3 Taping the threads Make the threaded joints watertight by wrapping four r five turns of PTFE tape round the plugs and adaptors before you screw them into the new radiator. Use a hacksaw blade to roughen the threads, in order to encourage the tape to grip.
"
if m
3 Connecting the new pipework. Make sure the vertical section ol pipe aligns with the radiator valve. 2 Securing the brackets Screw the mounting brackets to the wall
SEE ALSO: Connecting pipes 20-3, 25-7, Draining the system 59, Bleeding radiators 61, Removing radiators 61, Adjustable spanner 77, Radiator spanner 77, PTFE tape 81
Servicing a pump
W e t c e n t r a l h e a t i n g d e p e n d s o n a steady cycle o f h o t w a t e r p u m p e d f r o m the b o i l e r t o t h e r a d i a t o r s t h e n b a c k t o the b o i l e r f o r r e h e a t i n g . If the p u m p is n o t w o r k i n g properly, t h e result is p o o r c i r c u l a t i o n o r n o n e at a l l . A d j u s t i n g o r b l e e d i n g the p u m p m a y be the answer; o t h e r w i s e , i t m a y need r e p l a c i n g .
Bridging the gap Modern pumps are sometimes smaller than equivalent older models. If this proves to be the case, buy a converter designed to bridge the gap in the existing pipework.
H a v i n g balanced all the radiators, you can now adjust the p u m p ' s speed by one increment at a rime (2) until the radiators are giving the overall temperatures you require. D e p e n d i n g on the make and m o d e l o f p u m p , you may need t o use a special t o o l , such as an A l l e n key, to make the adjustments. S w i t c h o f f the p u m p before m a k i n g each adjustment.
1 Remove coverplate
SEE ALSO: Draining the system 59, Filling the system 59, Removing a fuse 72
If a motorised valve ceases t o open, its electric motor may have failed, Before replacing the motor, use a mains resrer to check whether it's receiving power. If it is, fit a new motor. There is no need to d r a i n the system. Switch off the electricity supply to the central-heating system {see right) don't merely turn off the programmer, as motorized valves have a permanent live feed. O n c e the power is off, remove the cover and u n d o the single screw that holds the m o t o r in place (1). O p e n the valve, u s i n g the m a n u a l lever, a n d lift out the m o t o r |2). D i s c o n n e c t t h e two m o t o r wires by c u t t i n g off the connectors. Insert a new m o t o r - available from a plumbers' merchant - then let the lever s p r i n g back t o the closed p o s i t i o n . Fit and tighten the retaining screw. Strip the ends and connect the wires, using the new connectors supplied (3). Replace the valve cover, and test the operation by t u r n i n g on the power and tunning the system.
Two-port control valve A two-port valve seals off a section of pipework when the water has reached the reqoired temperature.
1 Removing the valve If you're unable to disconnect the valve, use a hacksaw to cut through the pipe on each side.
Three-port control valve This type of valve can isolate the central heating from the hotwater circuit.
1 Releasing the motor-retaining screw Remove the cover and then the retaining screw.
2 Fining ihe new valve With the new valve connected to short sections of pipe, spring the assembly into the pipe tun.
Soldered coupling 2 Removing the motor Push the lever to open the valve, then lift out motor. 3 Tightening Ihe nuts Having connected the pipes, tighten The valve cap-nuts on each side, using a pan of spanners. Refill the heating system and check that the valve is working properly. Slip couplings It can sometimes be difficult to replace a valve using two con jentional z nts I' you can't spring the new assembly into place (see left), use a slip coupling atone end. This coupling is free to slide along the pipe to btidge the gap.
3 Tilting the new molar Join the wires, using the two connectors supplied
SEE ALSO: Making pipe joints 20, Heating controls 57, Draining the system 59, Removing a fuse 72
Underflow heating
W i t h the a v a i l a b i l i t y o f f l e x i b l e plastic p l u m b i n g , sophisticated c o n t r o l s a n d efficient i n s u l a t i o n , u n d e r f l o o r h e a t i n g has b e c o m e a viable and affordable f o r m o f central heating. Specialist m a n u facturers have d e v e l o p e d a range o f w a r m - w a t e r h e a t i n g systems to suit v i r t u a l l y any s i t u a t i o n . T h e s a m e c o m p a n i e s generally offer a d e s i g n service a i m e d at p r o v i d i n g a heating system that satisfies the c u s t o m e r ' s specific requirements. A n installation m a n u a l is delivered a l o n g w i t h the necessary m a t e r i a l s a n d equipment.
Underfloor heating can be incorporated in any type o f floor construction, including sol id-concrete floors, boarded floating floors and suspended timber floors (see below}. T h e hear emanates from a c o n t i n u o u s length o f plastic rube that snakes across the floor, f o r m i n g parallel loops and covering an area o f one o r more rooms. T h e entire floor area is divided into separate /ones t o provide the most efficient layout. E a c h zone is c o n t r o l l e d by a roomstat and is connected t o a t h e r m o s t a t i c a l l y c o n t r o l l e d multi-valve m a n i f o l d that forms the heart o f the system. T h e m a n i f o l d controls the temperature o f the water and the flow rate t o the various zones. O n c e a room or zone reaches its required temperature, a valve a u t o m a t i c a l l y shuts off that part o f the circuit, A flow meter for each o f the zones allows the circuits to be balanced when setting up the system and subsequently m o n i t o r s its performance. T h e manifold, which is installed abtne floor level, is connected to the boiler via a conventional circulation pump.
Underfloor-heating systems
Maintaining unde til oor heating The heating elements are virtu ally maintenance free. It the flow through the pipework becomes restricted, then the circuit can be flushed through with ma ins-pressure water by attaching a hose to the manifold
66
Basic system 1 Flow and return pipes from existing centra I-heating circuit. 2 Water-temperature mixing value. 3 Pump 4 Manifold with zone valves. 5Zone distributors. 6 Underfloor-heating lube,
WHERETO START
Send the details o f your proposed extension to the underfloor-healing supplier. The company w i l l also need a sealed plan of your house and the basic details of your present central-heating system in order to be able to supply you w i t h a well-planned scheme and q u o t a t i o n . You can expect to receive a complete package, i n c l u d i n g all the components and an installation m a n u a l .
' 4- ...
I ; Vi
Floor construction 1 Blinded hardcore 2 0PM 3 Concrete base 4 Insulation 5 Edge insulation fi Pipe clips and pipe 7 Screed 8 Floor tiles
Your options
T h e simplest type o f system w i l l be c o n nected t o the pipework of your existing radiator circuit. Heat for the extension will only be available when the existing central heating is running, although the temperature in the conservatory can be controlled independently by a roomstat connected to I motorised /one valve and the underfloor-heating pump. bbr full control, the flow and return pipework to the underfloor system must be connected directly to the boiler, and the roomstat must be wired up t o switch the boiler on and off and to control the tcmperamre of the conservatory. If it proves impossible to utilize the existing heating system, o r the boiler has insufficient capacity and cannot he upgraded, then you w o u l d need to have a n independent boiler and p u m p system to heat the conservatory.
SEE ALSO: Pipe joints 20, Heating controls 57, Draining the system 59
'" NTJ
E
T h e main cable terminates at the service head, o r 'cutout', w h i c h contains the service fuse. T h i s fuse prevents the neighbourhood's supply being affected if there s h o u l d be a serious fault in the circuitry of your house. Cables connect the cutout t o the meter, which registers how m u c h electricity you consume. Both the meter and cutout belong to the electricity c o m p a n y and must not be tampered w i t h . T h e meter is sealed in order to disclose interference. If you use cheap night-time power for storage heaters and hot water, a time switch w i l l be mounted between the cutout and the meter.
The main isolating switch Not all main isolating switches operate the same way. Belore you need In use it, check to see whether the main switch on your consumer unit has to be in the up or down position for 'off.
Consumer unit
Electricity is fed t o and f r o m the consumer unit by 'meter leads', thick single-core insutated-and-shcathed cables made up o f several wires twisted together. T h e c o n s u m e r u n i t is a box that contains the fuseways that protect the i n d i v i d u a l circuits in the house. It also incorporates the main i s o l a t i n g switch, which you operate when you need t o cut o f f the supply of power to the whole bouse. In a house where several new circuits have been installed over the years, the number o f circuits may exceed rhe number o f fuseways in the c o n s u m e r unit. If so, a n i n d i v i d u a l switchfuse unit o r more than one - may have been m o u n t e d alongside the m a i n unir. Switchfuse units comprise a single fuseway and an i s o l a t i n g s w i t c h ; they, too, are connected to the meter by means o f meter leads. If your home is heated by off-peak storage heaters, then you w i l l have an E c o n o m y 7 meter and a separate consumer unit for the heater circuits.
68
SEE ALSO: Switchfuse unit 72, Cheaper electricity 73, Electric shock treatment 80, Circuit breakers 81
Bathroom safety
Because water is s u c h a h i g h l y efficient c o n d u c t o r o f electric current, water a n d electricity f o r m a very d a n g e r o u s c o m b i n a t i o n . F o r this r e a s o n , i n terms o f electricity b a t h r o o m s are p o t e n t i a l l y the m o s t d a n g e r o u s areas i n y o u r h o m e . W h e r e there are s o m a n y e x p o s e d m e t a l pipes and fittings, c o m b i n e d w i t h wet conditions, regulations must be s t r i n g e n t l y o b s e r v e d i f fatal accidents are t o be a v o i d e d .
Supplementary bonding
* ** ******************
In any b a t h r o o m there are many n o n electrical metallic c o m p o n e n t s , such as metal baths and basins, supply pipes to bath and basin taps, metal waste pipes, radiators, central-heating p i p e w o r k and so on all o f w h i c h c o u l d cause an accident d u r i n g the time ir w o u l d take for a n electrical fault t o b l o w a fuse or operate a m i n i a t u r e circuit breaker ( M C B ) . T o ensure that n o dangerous voltages are created between metal parts, the W i r i n g Regulations stipulate that all these metal c o m p o n e n t s must be connected one t o another by a c o n d u c t o r which is itself connected to a t e r m i n a l on the e a r t h i n g block in the c o n s u m e r unit. T h i s is k n o w n as supplementary b o n d i n g and is required for all b a t h r o o m s - even when there is no electrical e q u i p m e n t installed i n the r o o m , and even though the water and gas pipes are b o n d e d to the consumer's earth t e r m i n a l near the c o n s u m e r unit. W h e n electrical equipment such as a hearer o r shower is fitred in a b a t h r o o m , rhat t o o must be supplementary-bonded by connecting its metalwork - such as the casing to the nonelectrical metal pipework, even though the appliance is connected t o the earthing c o n d u c t o r in the supply cable.
C o n n e c t i n g to p i p e w o r k A n earth c l a m p (1) is used for m a k i n g connections t o p i p e w o r k . Cleat) the pipe l o c a l l y w i t h wire w o o l to make a g o o d c o n n e c t i o n between the pipe and clamp, a n d scrape o r strip an area of p a i n t w o r k if the pipe has been painted.
Wiling regulations exist to ensure that bathrooms are safe places. However, you should familiarize yourself with what to do if someone does receive an electric shock. See p. SB for further details.
1 Fit an earth ciamp to pipework C o n n e c t i n g t o a bath o r basin M e t a l baths o r basins are made w i t h an earth tag. C o n n e c t the earth cable by trapping the bared end o f the c o n d u c t o r under a nut and bolt w i t h metal washers (2). M a k e sure the tag has not been painted o r enamelled. If an o l d metal bath o r basin has not been provided w i t h an earth tag, drill a hole through the foot o f the bath o r through the rim at the back o f the basin; and connect the cable w i t h a similar nut and bolt, w i t h metal washers.
GENERAL SAFETY
Sockets in L i s t not be fitted in 3 bathroom - except for special shaver sockets that c o n f o r m to BS E N 60742 C h a p t e r 2, Section 1. T h e IEE W i r i n g Regulations stipulate that light switches in bathrooms must be outside zones 0 to 3 (see opposite). T h e best way to c o m p l y w i t h this requirement is to fit only ceilingmounted pull-cord switches. A n y b a t h r o o m heater must c o m p l y with the IEE W i r i n g Regulations. If you have a shower in a b e d r o o m , it must be not less than 3 m (9ft 11 in) f r o m any socket otulet, which must be protected by a 30 m i l l i a m p R C D . Light fittings must be well out of reach and shielded - so fit a close-mounted ceiling light, properly enclosed, raiher than a pendant fitting. Never use a portable fire o r other electrical appliance, such as a hairdryer, in a bathroom even i f it is plugged into a socket outside the r o o m . 2 Connect to hath or basin earth tag C o n n e c t i n g to an appliance S i m p l y connect the earth cable to the terminal provided in the electrical appliance (3) and r u n it t o a c l a m p on a metal supply pipe nearby Supplementary bonding in a bathroom
WARNING
SEE ALSO: Bonding to earth G, Electric shower 38, 41, Switches 70, Batfiroom heaters 71, Shaver sockets 71, Electric shock treatment 80, PME 81
69
having to use a tool - that is, if there is no bath panel or if the panel is attached e l e c t r i c a l a p p l i a n c e s c a n be i n s t a l l e d i n e a c h z o n e , a n d t h e r o u t e s with magnetic catches o r similar devices c a b l e s m u s t t a k e i n o r d e r t o serve t h o s e a p p l i a n c e s . T h e r e a r e that allow the panel to be detached without using a tool o f some k i n d . If, special considerations for extra-low-voltage equipment w i t h however, the panel is screw-fixed - so s e p a r a t e d e a r t h ; t h i s is best left t o a q u a l i f i e d e l e c t r i c i a n . that it can only be removed w i t h the aid of a screwdriver - then the enclosed space beneath the hath is considered to be outside all zones.
A n y r o o m containing a bathtub o r shower is d i v i d e d i n t o four zones. Z o n e 0 is the i n t e r i o r o f the b a t h t u b or shower tray - not i n c l u d i n g the space beneath the t u b , w h i c h is covered by o t h e r r e g u l a t i o n s (see top right). Z o n e s 1 t o 3 are specific areas
above a n d a l l r o u n d the b a t h o r shower, where o n l y specified e l e c t r i c a l a p p l i a n c e s a n d their cables may be i n s t a l l e d . W i r i n g o u t s i d e these areas must c o n f o r m t o the I E E W i r i n g R e g u l a t i o n s , but n o specific ' z o n e ' r e g u l a t i o n s apply.
Supplementary bonding
In bathrooms, n on-electrical metallic c o m p o n e n t s must be bonded to earth (see opposite). In zones 1, 2 and 3, this supplementary b o n d i n g is required to all pipes, any electrical appliances and any exposed metallic structural c o m ponents of the b u i l d i n g . T h i s does not include w i n d o w frames, unless they are themselves connected t o metallic structural components. Supplementary b o n d i n g is not required outside the zones. A n d in the special case of a bedroom c o n t a i n i n g a shower cubicle, supplementary b o n d i n g can also be omitted from zone 3. Cable runs You are not permitted to run electrical cables that are feeding a zone through anothatzone designated with a lower number. This includes cables buried in the plaster or concealed behind other wallcoverings
LOCATION Interior of the bathtub or shower tray. Directly above the bathtub or showettray, up to a height of 2.25m (7ft 5in| from the floor. (See also top right.1 Area within D.Bm (2lt) horizontally from the bathtub or shower tray in any direction, up to a height of 2.25m (7ft 5m) from Ihe go or. The area above zone l , up to a height of 3m (9ft 1'in] from the floor.
PERMITTED No electrical installation. Instantaneous water heater. Instantaneous shower. All-in-one power shower, with a soitably waterproofed integral pump. The wiring that serves appliances within the zone. Appliances permitted in zone 1. Light fittings. Extractor fan. Space heater. Whirlpool unit lor Ihe bathtub. Shaver socket to BS EN 60742 Chapter 2, Section 1, The wiring that serves appliances within the zone and any appliances in zone t. Appliances permitted in zones 1 and 2. Any filed electrical appliance (a heated towel rail, for example) that is protected by a 30 milliamp P.CD The wiring that serves appliances within the zone and any appliances in zones 1 and 2.
Zone 2
Switches
Electrical switches, i n c l u d i n g ceilingm o u n t e d switches operated by a pull c o r d , must be situated outside the zones. T h e only exceptions are those switches a n d controls i n c o r p o r a t e d i n appliances suitable for use in the zones. If the b a t h r o o m c e i l i n g is higher than 3m (9ft 1 [in), ceiling-mounted p u l l - c o r d switches can be mounted anywhere. However, i f the ceiling height is between 2.25 and 3 m (7ft 5in and 9ft 1 l i n ) , pul I-cord Switches must be mounted at least 0.6m (2ft) - measured horizontally - from the bathtub o r shower cubicle. If the c e i l i n g is lower than 2.25m (7ft 5in), switches can only be mounted outside the r o o m . 13amp sockets In the special case of a bedroom containing a shower cubicle, socket outlets are permitted in the room, but only outside the zones, and the circuit that feeds the sockets must be protected by a 30 milliamp BCD
Zone 3
Up to 2 4m (7ft llinl outside zone 2. up to a height of 3.25m (7ft 5inl from the floor. The area above zone 2 neit to the bathtub or shower, up to a height of 3m 19ft U in) ftom the floor.
IP coding
225m Electrical appliances installed in zones 1 and 2 must be manufactured w i t h suitable protection against splashed water. T h i s is designated by the code I P X 4 (the letter X is sometimes replaced with a single digit). A n y number larger than four is also acceptable as this indicates a higher degree of waterproofing, [f in d o u b t , check w i t h your supplier that the appliance is suitable for its intended l o c a t i o n .
IP coding Suitable equipment may be marked with the symbol shown above
70
SEE ALSO: Wiring heaters 71, Wiring a shower unit 71, Electric shock treatment 80
Wiring heaters
W h e n you're i n s t a l l i n g a s k i r t i n g heater o r w a l l - m o u n t e d heater o r an oil-filled radiator, wire the a p p l i ance t o a fused c o n n e c t i o n unit m o u n t e d nearby, at a height o f about 150 t o 3 0 0 m m (6in to 1 ft) from the floor. W h e t h e r the connection to the unit is by flex o r cable w i l l depend o n the type o f appliance. F o l l o w the manufacturer's i n s t r u c t i o n s for w i r i n g , a n d fit the a p p r o p r i a t e fuse i n the c o n n e c t i o n unit. In a b a t h r o o m , a fused connection unit must be mounted outside zones 0 t o 3. A n y heater that is m o u n t e d near the floor of a b a t h r o o m must therefore be wired to a connection unit installed outside the r o o m . If the appliance is fitted w i t h flex, mount a flexible-cord outlet {!) next to the appliance - and then run a cable from the outlet t o the fused connection unit outside the b a t h r o o m and connect it t o the ' L o a d ' terminals in the unit. T h e flexible-cord outlet is m o u n t e d either o n a standard surface-mounted box o r flush o n a metal box. A t the back o f the faceplate are three pairs o f terminals t o take the c o n d u c t o r s f r o m the flex and the cable |2). FLEX
WIRII
HEATE
T h e shower unit itself has its o w n on/off switch, but there must also be a separate isolating switch in the circuit. T h i s must not be accessible t o anyone using the shower, so you need to install a ceiling-mounted 45amp double-pole pull-switch (a 50amp switch is required for a l O . S k W shower). T h e switch has to be fitted w i t h an indicator that tells you when the switch is ' o n ' . F i x the backplate o f the switch to the ceiling a n d , having sheathed the earth wires with a grccn-and-ycllow sleeve, connect them to the F. terminal o n the switch. C o n n e c t the conductors f r o m the consumer unit t o the switch's ' M a i n s ' t e r m i n a l , and those o f the cable to the shower to the ' L o a d ' terminals T h e shower unit and all metal pipes and fittings must be bonded to earth.
T Flexible-cord outlet Wall-heater ciicuil 1 Heater 2 Connection unit 3 Spur cable 4 Socket 5 Power circuit 6Consumer unit with t 30mA RCD CIRCUIT CABLE2 Wiring a flexible-cord outlet
Shower circuit
Include an RCD
Shaver sockets
Special shaver socket outlets are the o n l y k i n d o f electrical socket allowed in b a t h r o o m s . T h e y c o n t a i n a transformer that isolates the user side o f the unit from the mains, r e d u c i n g the risk of an electric shock. T h i s type of socket has to c o n f o r m to the exacting British Standard BS E N 60742. However, there are shaver sockets that d o not have an isolating transformer and therefore don't c o n f o r m t o this standard. These are quite safe to install and use in a b e d r o o m but this type of socket must not be fitted in a bathroom. You can wire a shaver socket f r o m a j u n c t i o n box on an earthed l i g h t i n g circuit o r f r o m a fused c o n n e c t i o n unit, fitted w i t h a 3 a m p fuse, o n a tingcircuit spur. If you're i n s t a l l i n g the shaver socket in a b a t h r o o m , then rhe fused c o n n e c t i o n unit must be p o s i t i o n e d outside the r o o m . R u n 1 m m - two-core-and-earth cable f r o m the connection unit t o the shaver socket; then connect the c o n d u c t o r s ; red to L a n d black to N (1). Sheath the earth w i r e w i t h a green-and-yellow sleeve a n d connect it to E . 1 Wiring a shaver unii
RADIAL-CIRCUIT CABLE
SHOWER CABLE
* SEE ALSO: Switching off power E8, Bathroom safety 69, Zones for bathrooms 70, Switches 70, Electric shock treatment 80
71
HOT WATER
T h e water in a storage cylinder can be heated by an electric i m m e r s i o n heater, p r o v i d i n g a central supply o f hot water for the w hole house. The heating element is rather like a larger version of the one that heals an electric kettle. It is n o r m a l l y sheathed in copper, but more expensive sheathings of incoloy or t i t a n i u m w i l l increase the life o f the clement in hard-water areas. A d j u s t i n g the water temperature T h e thermostat that controls the maxi m u m temperature of the water is set by adjusting a screw inside the plastic cap covering the t e r m i n a l box (1).
Changing a (use With the else trie hy turned oft, re mo HE the retaining screw in the face of the fuse holder. Take the holder from the connection unit; prise out the old fuse and fits new one;then teplace the holder and the retaining screw.
If the appliance is connected by a flex, choose a unit that has a c o r d outlet in the faceplate. Some fused c o n n e c t i o n units arc fitted w i t h a s w i t c h , and some o f these have a neon i n d i c a t o r that shows at a glance whether they are switched o n . A switched connection unit allows you to isolate the appliance f r o m the mains. A l l fused c o n n e c t i o n units ate single (there are no d o u b l e versions available) w i t h square faceplates that fit metal boxes for flush m o u n t i n g o r standard surface-mounted plastic boxes. Fused connection units 1 U"switched connection unit 2 Switched unit with cord outlet and indicator 3 Connection unit and socket outlet in a dual mounting box.
Types o f i m m e r s i o n heater A n i m m e r s i o n heater can be installed either from the top of the cylinder o r from the side, and top-entry units can have single o r d o u b l e elements. W i t h the single-element top-entry type, the element extends d o w n almost to the b o t t o m o f the cylinder, so that all o f the water is heated whenever the heater is switched on (2). For economy, one o f the elements in the double-element type is a short one for daytime top-up heating, while the other is a full-length element that heats the entire contents o f the cylinder, using the cheaper night-rate electricity (3). A double-element heater that has a single thermostat is called a t w i n element heater; one w i t h a thermostat for each element is k n o w n as a d u a l element heater. Side-entry elements are o f identical length. O n e is positioned near t o the b o t t o m o f the cylinder, and the other a little above h a l f way (4).
THERMOSTAT
CIRCUIT CABLE
4 Side-entry elements
72
* SEE ALSO: Switching off power B8, Circuits 79, Electric shock treatment 8D
CIRCUIT CABLE . RCD prelection When instilling any electrical appliance in a bathroom, the circuit should be protected by a 30 milliamp BCD.
0 .
R u n n i n g the cable R u n the circuit cables from the cylinder cupboard to the fuse board; then, w i t h the power switched off, connect the cable from the upper hearer ro a spare luseway in the consumer unit. A l t h o u g h the consumer unit is switched off, the cable between the main switch and the meter w i l l remain live so take special care. Wire the other cable to its own switchfuse unit or to your storageheater consumer unit, if you have one ready for connection to the E c o n o m y 7 time switch. M a k e the connections as described for a cooker circuit.
LIVE
Dual-element heaters
Wire the immersion-heater circuit as described above, but feed the flex from both switches into the cap on the heater. Connect the brown wire f r o m the upper switch to the L 2 terminal on the one thermostat, and the other brown wire to the L I terminal on the second thermostat (4). C o n n e c t the blue wires to their respective neutral terminals (4). Connect both earth wires to the E terminal.
Switching off power 68, Consumer units G8, Zones for bathrooms 70, Circuit lengths 79
73
Plumbing tools
PLUMBER'S AND METALWORKER'S TOOL KIT
Although plastics have been used for drainage for some time, the advent of ones suitable for ma ins-press II rc and hot water has affected tile plumbing trade more radically. However, brass fittings and pipework made from copper and other meials are still extensively used for domestic plumbing, so the plumbers tool kit is still basically for working metal. Spring dividers Spring dividers are similar to a pencil compass, but both legs have steel points. These are adjusted to the required spacing by a knurled nut on a threaded rod thai links the legs. Using spring dividers Use dividers to step-off divisions (i/oHg a line {1} or to scribe circles {2f. liv running one pohn against the edge of a warkpiece you cin scribe a imr parallel with the
t
I ,i
'
Drain auger A flexible coiled-wirc drain auger will pass through smalldi a meter waste pipes to clear blockages. Pass the corkscrewlike head into the waste pipe till it reaches the blockage, clamp the cranked handle onto the other end, and then turn it to rotate the head and engage the blockage. Push and pull the auger till the pipe is clear.
Steel rule You will need a long tape measure for estimating pipe runs and positioning appliances, but use a 300 or 600mm (1 or 2ft) steel rule for marking out components when absolute accuracy is required.
?Aw (31. Try square You can use a woodworker's try square to mark out or check right angles; however, an allmetal engineer's try square is precis ion-made for metalwork. The small notch between blade and stock allows the tool to fir properly against a right-angled workpicce even when the cornet is burred by filing. For generalpurpose work, choose a 1 flhn 'in try square.
JE) Sink plunger This is a simple but effective tool for clearing a blockage from a sink, washbasin or bath trap. A pumping action on the rubber cup forces air and water along the pipe to disperse the blockage When you buy a plunger, make sure the cup is large enough ro cover the waste outlet. It is possible to hire larger plungers for clearing blockages from W C traps. PLUNGER CORKSCREW SCRAPER Drain rods You can hire a complete set of rods and fittings tor clearing main drains and inspection chambers. The cods come in 1 m (3ft 3in) lengths of polypropylene with threaded brass connectors. The clearing heads comprise a double-worm corkscrew fitting, a 100mm (4in) rubber plunger and a hinged scraper for clearing the open channels in inspection chambers. 1 Stepping-otf
METAL-GUTTING TOOLS You can cut solid bar, sheet and tubular metal with an ordinary hacksaw, but there are toots specifically designed for cutting sheet metal and pipes.
MEASURING AND MARKING TOOLS I .-. - for measuring and marking metal are very similar to those used for wood, but ihc> arc made and calibrated for greater accuracy because metal parr* must fit wich precision. Centre punch A centre punch is an inexpensive tool for marking the centres of holes to be drilled. Using a centre punch Willi lis point on dead centre, strike the punch with a hammer. If the mark is not accurate, angle the punch towards the true centre, tap it to extend the mark m that direction, and then murk the centre again.
Essential tools Sink plunger Scribe/ Centre punch Steel rule Try square General-purpose hacksaw
Hydraulic pump A blocked waste pipe can be cleared with a hand-operared hydraulic pump. A downward stroke creates i powerful jet of water that should push the obstruction cleat. If, however, the blockage is lodged firmly, an upward stroke may create enough suction to pull the obstruction out of place.
Genera I-pur pose hacksaw A modern hacksaw has a tubular-steel frame with a light cast-metal handle. The frame is adjustable to accommodate replaceable blades of different lengths, which are tensioned by tightening a wing nut.
W C auger The short coiled-wire W C auger designed for clearing W C and gully traps is rotated by a handle in a rigid, hollow shaft. The auger has a vinyl guard to prevent the W C pan getiing scratched.
Scriber Exjr precise work, use a pointed hardened-steel scriber to mark lines and hole centres on metal. Use a pencil to mark the centre of a bend, as a scored line made with a scriber may open up when the metal is stretched nn [he fnttsicle of the bend.
Plumbing tools
CHOOSING HACKSAW BLADES * * * * * * * * You can buy 200, 250 and 300mm (8, 10 and 12in) hacksaw blades. Try the different lengths till you find ibt one that suits you best. Choose the hardness and size of teeth according to the type of metal yon are planning tu cut. Junior hacksaw Use a junior hacksaw tor cutting small-bore tubing and thin metal rod. The simplest ones hare a solid spring-steel frame that holds the blade under tension. 1 Turn fitst kerf away iiom you Sawing metal bar Hold the work in an engineer's vice, with the marked cutting line as close to the iaws as possible. Start the cut on the waste side of the line with short strokes until the kerf is about I mm (Htinldeep; then turn the bar 90 degrees in the vice, so that the kerf faces awa\ from vou, and cut a similar kerf in the new face IV. Continue in this way until the kerf runs right round the bar, then cut through the bar leitb long steady strokes. Steady the end of the saiv with your free hand, and put a little light oil on the blade if necessary
Using linsnips As WW cut along the marked line, let the waste curl away below the sheet. To cut thick sheet metal, clamp one handle of the snips in a vice, so you can apply vour full iveight to the other one. Try not to close the jaws completely every time, as that can cause a jagged edge on the metal. Wear thick gloves when cutting sheet metal.
2 Wavy set S i l t and set of teeth A coarse hacksaw.' blade has 14 to IS teeth per 25mm (Ihl); a fine one has 24 to .52. The teeth axe set (bent sideways) to make a cut wider than the blade's thickness, lo prevent it jamming in the work. Coarse teeth are 'raker set' (1) - with pairs of teeth hem 10 opposite sides and separated by a tooth left in line with the blade to clear metal waste from the kerf (cut). Fine teeth are too small to be raker set, and the whole row is "wavy set' (2|. Use a coarse blade for tuning soft metals like brass and aluminium, which would clog fine teeth; and a fine blade for thin sheet and the harder metals. Hardness A hacksaw blade must be harder than the metal it is cutting, or its teeth will quickly blunt. A flexible blade with hardened teeth will cut most metals, but there are fullv hardened blades that stay sharp longer and are less prone to losing teeth. However, being rigid and brittle, they break easily. Blades of high-speed steel are expensive and even more hrirtle than the fully hardened ones, but they will em very hard alloys. Fitting a hacksaw blade With t u teeth pointing auay from the handle, slip a new blade onto the puis ill each end of the hacksaw frame. Apply tension with the wing nut. If the new blade lends to wander off line as you cut. lighten the wing nut.
Fitting a new blade To fit a blade, locate it in the slot at the front of the frame and bow the frame against a workbench until the blade fits in the rear slot.
SHARPENING SNIPS
('lamp one handle in a vice and sharpen the cutting edge with a smooth file. File the other edge and finish by removing the burrs from the backs of the blades on an oiled slipstonc.
Sawing rod or pipe As you cut a cylindrical rod or tube, rotate it away from you till the kerf runs right round the rod or tube be fare you sever it.
Kngititer's vice A large engineer's or metalworker's vice has IO be bolted to the M irk hen eh, but smaller ones can be clamped on. Slip soft fibre liners over the jaws of a vice to protect work pieces held in it.
Cold chisel Plumbers use cold chisels for hacking old pipes oui of masonry. They are also useful for chopping the heads off rivets and cutting metal rod. Sharpen the np of the chisel cm a bench grinder.
Sheet-metal cutter Finsnips tend to distort a narrow strip cut from the edge of a metal sheet. However, the strip remains perfectly flat when removed with a sheetmetal cutter. The same tool is also suited to cutting rigid plastic sheet, which cracks if it is distorted by tinsnips. lube cutrer A tube cutter slices the ends off pipe*, at exactly 90 degrees to their length. The pipe is clamped between the cutting wheel and an adjustable slide with two rollers, and is cut as the tool is moved round it. The adjusting screw is tightened between each revolution. A pipe slice, which works like a tube cutrer, can be operated in eon fined spaces. Chain-link cutter Cut large-diameter pipes w u h a chain-link cutter. Wrap the chain round the pipe, locate the end link in the clamp, and tighten rhe adjuster until the cutter on each link bites into the metal. Work the handle back and forth lo score rhe pipe, and continue tightening the adjuster intermittently until the pipe is severed.
Tube cutter
Sawing sheet metal To saw a small piece of sheet metal, sandwich it between two strips of wood clamped in a vice. Adjust the metal to place the cutting line close to the strips, then saw down the waste side with steady strokes and the blade angled to the work. To cut a thin sheet of metal, clamp it between two pieces of plywood and cut through all three layers simultaneously. Sawing a groove To cut a slot or groove wider than a standard hacksaw blade, fit two or more identical blades in the frame at the same time.
Straight snips
Univetsnl snips Finsnips Tins nips are used for cutting sheet metal. Straight snips have wide blades for cutting srraight edges, [f you try to cut curves with them, the waste usually gets caught against the blades; but it is possible to cut a convex curve by progressively removing small straight pieces of waste down to rhe marked line. Universal snips have thick narrow blades that cut a curve in one pass and will also make straight curs.
l urning blade Sometimes its easier to work with the blade at right angles to the frame. To do so. rotate the square-section spigots a quarter turn liefore fitting the blade.
Chain-link cuncr
'LUMBING
Plumbing tools
DRILLS AND PUNCHES Special-quality Red bits are made for drilling holes in metal. Cut 12 to 25mm ('/: to I in) holes in sheet metal with a hole punch. METAL BENDERS Thick or hard metal must be heated before it t a n be bent successfully, but soft copper piping and sheet metal tan he bent while told. PIPE-FHEEZING EQUIPMENT To work on plumbing without having to drain the system, vou tan form temporary ite plugs in me pipework. T he water lias IO be told and not (lowing. Using freezing equipment You can buy a kit containing an aerosol of liquid freezing gas, plus two plastic-foam 'jackets' to wrap round the pipework at the points where ran want the warer to freeze. Pierce a small hole through the wall of each lacker and bind il securely lo the pipe then insert rhe extension tube through the hole (2) and inject the recommended amount of gas. It takes about five minutes for the ice plug n form in a metal pipe, and up to 15 minutes in a plastic one. If the |ob takes more than hall an hour to Complete, vou wilt need to inject more gas.
! FLUX
* * * ^
# v
Twist drills Metal-cutting twist drills are similar ro the ones used for wood but rhey arc made from high-speed steel and their tips are ground to a shallower angle. Use them in a power drill at a slow speed. Mark the metal with a centre punch to locate the drill point, and clamp rhe work in a vice or to the bed of a vertical drill stand. Drill slowly and steadily, and keep the bit oiled. To drill a large hole, make a small pilot hole first to guide the larger drill bit. When drilling sheet metal, the hit can jam and produce a ragged hole as it exits on the far side of the workpiece. As a precaution, clamp the work between pieces of plywood and drill through all three layers.
Internal spring
External spring Bending springs You can bend small-diameter pipes over your knee, but theit walls must be supported with a coiled spring to prevent them buckling. Push an internal spring inside the pipe, or slide an external one over it. Either type of spring must fit the pipe exactly. CURVED FORMERS
*
#
9 t * ^
m
Masonry core drills These are heavy-duty versions of the woodworking hole saw. Masonry care drills cut hales up to 150mm lEin) diameter in brick Or stone walls for running new waste pipes to the outside.
STRAIGHT FORMERS Hole punch Use a hole punch to make large holes in sheet metal. Having first marked out the circumference of the hole on the metal with spring dividers, lay the work on a piece of scrap softwood or plywood. Dace the punch on the marked circle and tap it with a hammer, then cheek the alignment of the punched ring with the scribed circle. Reposition the punch and, wirh one sharp hammer blow, cut through the metal. If the wood etushes and the metal is slightly distorted, tap it Hat again with ihe hammer. Tube bender Willi a tube bender, a pipe is bent over one of two fixed curved formers that are designed lo give the optimum radii for plumbing and support the svalls of the pipe during bending. Hach has a matching straight former, which is placed between the pipe and a steel roller on a movable lever. Operating this lever bends rhe pipe over the curved former.
4 # Alternatively, hire jackets with * '.yhnders ; f carbon i l t w d l or * an electric freezer connected to two blocks that you elamp over * the pipework. An elcctrit freezer will keep the water frozen until m n finish rhe job and switch off. t
^ m
To be soldered successfully, ft joint must be perfectly clean and free of oxides. Even after the metal has been cleaned with wire wool or emery, oxides form immediately, making a positive bond between the solder and metal impossible. Flux is iherefore used to form a chemical barrier against ^ l d a i c m , Corrosive or 'active flux, applied with a brush, dissolves oxides but must be washed from the surface with water as soon as the solder solidifies, or it will go on corroding the mernh A 'passive' flux, in paste form, is used where it is impossible to wash the joint thoroughly. Although it docs not dissolve oxides, it excludes them adequately for soldering topper plumbing joints and electrical connections. Another alternative is to use wire solder containing flux in a hollow core. The flux flows just before the solder melts. To flush flux from a tcntraiheating system, fill it with water and let it heat up, then switch off and drain the system. This should be repeated a couple of times1
Soldering irons For suctessful soldering, the work hits to become hot enough for the solder to melt and flow otherwise it solidifies before it can completely penetrate the joint. A soldering iron is used to apply the necessary heat.
Pencif-point.fon 2 Inject freezing gas inside Ihe jacket Soft mallet Soft mallets have a head made of toiled rawhide, hard rubber or plastic. They are used in bending strip or sheet metal, which would be damaged by a metal hammer. Ta pared-Tip iron TOOLS FOR JOINING METAL ********** You can make permanent water tight | units with colder, a molten i l b v that acts like a glue when n tools and solidifies. Mechanical fixings such as compression joints, rivets, and nuts and bolts are also useo" Tor joining metah Use ft low-powered pencil-point iron for soldering electrical connections. To bring sheeT ineul up ru working temperature, use a larger iron with a tapered tip.
Essential tools High-speed twist drills Power drill Bending springs Soft mallet Soldering iron Gas torch
lank tuttor Use a tank cutter to make holes for pipework in plasiie or mcral cold-water storage tanks.
To bend sheet metal at a nglu angle, elamp it between stout battens along the bending line. Start at one end and bend the metal over one of the battens by tapping it with the mallet. Don't attempt the full bend at once, hui work along the sheer, increasing ; SOLDERS the angle graduallv and keeping it constant along the length until 9 Solders are designed lo melt at the metal lies Hat on the batten. relatively low tempera Hires, but Tap out any kinks. * they will not work in rhe presence * of water. When working on hotwater and cold-water plumbing, i use a lead-free solder, it has a * slightlv higher melting point than the old lead snider and makes stronger joints.
9
L inning a soldering iron The rip of a soldering iron has to be 'tinned' to keep it oxide free* Ctean the cool tip with a file; then heat it to working temperature, dip it in flux, and apply a stick of solder to coat it evenly.
E ALSO:
Soldering pipes 21, Bending pipes 23, Storage tanks 49, Spring
Plumbing tools
the parts together. Place the assembly on a fireproof mat or surround it with firebricks. Bring the joint to red heat with the torch, then dip a stick of the appropriate alloy in flux and apply it to the jointWhen the joint is cool, chip off hardened flux, wash the metal thoroughly in hot water, and finish the joint with a file. Fireproof mat Buy a fireproof mat from a plumber's merchant to pronect flammable surfaces from the heat of a gas torchPush the rivet through a hole in the workpiece and while pressing the loot hard against the metal, squeeze the handles to compress the rivet head on the far side (2). When the rivet is fully expanded, the shank will snap off in the tool.
s
PLUMBIN
Square nut
hexagnnal nut
Using a soldering iron Clean the mating surfaces of the joint to a bright finish and coat them with flux, then clamp the joint tightly between two wooden battens. Apply the hot iron along the joint to beat, the metal thoroughly; and then run its tip along the edge of the joint, following closely with a Hick of solder. The solder flows immediately into a properly heated joint.
SPANNERS AND WRENCHES * * * * * * * * A professional plumber uses a great variety of spanners and wrenches on a wide range of fittings and fixings. However, there is no need to buy them all, since you can hire ones that you oeed only occasionally.
Choosing a ring spanner Choose a 12-point spanner. It is fast to use and will fit both square and hexagonal nuts. You can buy combination spanners with a ring a! one end and an open jaw at the other.
Gas torch Even a large soldering iron can't hear, thick meral fast enough to compensate for heat loss from the joint, and this is very much rhe siruation when you solder pipework. Although rhe copper unions have very thin walls, the pipe on each side dissipates so much heat that a soldering iron cannot get the joint itself hot enough to form a watertight soldered seal. You thercforeneed to use a gas torch with an intensely hot flame to hear, rhe work quickly. The torch runs on liquid gas contained under pressure in a disposable metal canister that screws onto the ga* inlet. Open the control valve and light rhe gas released from the nozzle, then adjust the valve until the flame roars and is bright blue. Use the hottest part of the flame - abour the middle of its length - to hear the joint.
Hot-air gun Some hot-air guns designed for stripping old paintwork can also be used for soft soldering. You can vary the temperature of an electronic gun from about 100 to 600C. A heat shield on the nozzle reflects the heat back onto the work.
Open-ended spanner A set of open-ended spanners is essential for a plumber or metalworker. Pipes generally run inro a fitting or accessory, and the only rool you can use is a spanner wirh open jaws. The spanners are usually double-ended (perhaps in a combination of merric and imperial sizes), and the sizes are duplicated within a set to enable you to manipulate rwo identical nuts simultaneously - on a compression joint, for example.
Box spanner A box spanner is a steel tube with hexagonal ends. The turning force is applied wirh a tommy bat slipped through holes drilled in the tube. Don'i use a very long bar: roo much leverage may strip the thread of the fitting or distort the walls of the spanner.
RiVET Blind riveter Join thin sheet metal with a blind riveter, a hand-operated tool with plier-like handles. It uses special rivets with long shanks that break off, leaving slightly raised heads on both sides of the work.
Adjustable spanner Having a movable jaw, an adjustable spanner is not as strong as an open-ended or ring spanner, hot is often the only rool thai will fit a large nut or one that's coated wirh painr. Make sure the spanner fits the nut snugly by rocking it slightly as you tighten the jaws; and grip rhe nut with rhe roots of the jaws. If yoti use just the rips, they can spring apart slightly under force and the spanner will slip.
Achieving a tight fit A spanner must be a good fit, or it will round the corners of the nut. You can pack out the jaws with a thin 'shim' of metal if a snug fit is otherwise not possible. Basin wrench
2 Squeeze the handles Using a riveter Clamp the two sheets together and drdl holes right through the metal, matching the diameter of the rivets and spaced regularly along the joint. Open the handles of the riveter and insert the rivet shank in the head II).
Ring spanner Being a closed eirele, rhe head of a ring spanner is stronger and fits better than that of an openended one. It is specially handy for loosening a corroded nur, provided you are able to slip rhe spanner over it.
Cranked spanner and basin wrench A cranked spannet is a special double-ended wrench fot use on tap connectors. A basin wrench (for the same job) has a pivoting jaw that can be set for either tightening or loosening a fitting.
Essential teals Blind tiveter Set of open-ended spanners Small and large adjustable spanners
Hard soldering and h razing Use a gas f o r c ^ for brazing and hard soldering. Clean and flux the work if possible with an active flux - then wire or clamp
Radiator spannet Use this simple spanner, made from hexagonal-secrion sreel rod, to remove radiaror blanking plugs. One end is ground to fit plugs rhat have square sockets.
ST I Plumbing tools
LS
FILES Files are used for shaping and smoothing metal components and removing sharp edges. Still son wrench The adjustable toothed jaws of a Still son wrench are for gripping pipework. As force is applied, the jaws tighten on the work.
CLASSIFYING FILES
The working faces of a file are composed of parallel ridges, or teerh, sec ar about 70 degrees t o it; 'jdges. A fill 10 tlaj-iFicd according to the size and spacing o f its Teeth and whether it has one or two sets of teeth.
Smooth-jaw adjustable wren Eh This older-style wrench is ideal for gripping and manipulating chromed fittings because its large smooth jaws will nut damage the surface of [he metal.
Chain wrench A chain wrench does the same job as a Stillson wrench, but can be used on pipework and fittings with a very large diameter. Wrap the chain tightly round the work and engage it with the hook at the end of the wrench, then lever the handle towards the toothed jaw to apply turning force.
Single-cut tile
Dnuble-eut file A single-cut file has one set of teeth virtual Iv covering each of its faces. A double-cut file has a second set of identical teeth crossing the first at a 45-degree angle. Some files are single-cur on one side and double-cut on the other. The spacing of teeth relates directly to their size: the finer the teeth, the more closelv packed they arc. Degrees of coarseness are expressed as number of teeth per 25nun (1 in) - Use progressively finer files to remove marks left by coarser ones. Hie classification: Bastard file - Coarse grade (26 teeth per 25mm), used for initial shaping. Second-cut file - Medium grade [36 teeth per 25mm), used for preliminary smoothing. Smooth file - Fine grade (47 teeth per 25mm), used for final smoothing.
Strap wrench With a strap wrench you can disconnect chromed pipework without damaging its surface. Wrap the smooth leather or canvas strap round the pipe, pass its end through the slot in the head of the tool, and pull it tight. Levering on the handle rotates the pipe.
Flat file M II A flat file tapers from irs pointed tang to its tip, in both width and thickness. Both faces and both edges are toothed. Hand file Hand files are parallel-sided bur tapered in their thickness. Most of them have one smooth edge for filing up to a corner wirhour damaging it. Half-round file /^~'~'"~~**N\ i'his tool has one rounded faee for shaping inside curves. Round file o A round file is for shaping tight curves and enlarging holes. Square file Square files arc used for cutting narrow slots and smoothing the edges of small rectangular holes. Triangular file A Triangular files are designed for accurately shaping and smoothing undercut apertures of less than 90 degrees. Needle files A These are miniature versions of standard files and are all made in eyrra-fine grades. Needle files are used for precise work and to sharpen brace hits.
FILE SAFETY
Always fit a wooden or plastic handle oo the rang of a file before vou use it.
Plier wrench A plier wrench locks onto the work. It grips round stock or damaged nuts, and is often used as a small cramp.
CLEANING A FILE
Soft metal tends to clog file teeth. When a file stops cutting efficiently, brush along the teeth with a fine wire brush, then rub chalk on the file to help reduce clogging in future.
Z Releasing the wrench Using a plier wrench To close the jaws, squeeze the handles whde slowly turning the adjusting screw clockwise (t). Eventually the jaws will snap together, gripping the work securely. To release the tool's grip on the work, pull the release lever {2}.
2 Knock a handle tram the tang If an unprotected file catches on the work, then the tang could he driven inro rhe palm of your hand. Having fitted a handle, tap its end on a bench to tighten its grip (1). To remove a handle, hold rhe blade of the file in one hand and strike the ferrule away from you wirh a block of wood {2}.
Essential tools Plier wrench Second-cut and smooth flat files Second-cut and smooth hall-round files
78
Plumbing tools
FINISHING METAL Before painting or soldering metal, always make sure it is clean and rust-free. Buffing mop Metals can be brought lo a shine by hand, using a liquid metal polish and a soft cloth; but for a really high gloss, use a buffing mop in a bench-mounted power drill or gnndcr.
PLUMBIN
Using a file When using any file, keep il flat on the work and avoid rocking it during forward strokes. Hold it steady, with the fingers of one hand resting on its tip, and make slow firm strokes with the full length of the file. To avoid vibration, hold the work low in the jaws of a vice or clamp it between two battens.
Wire brush Use a steel-wire hand brush to clean rusty or corroded metal.
Reseating tool If the seat of a tap has become so worn that even fitting a new washer won't produce a perfect seal, use a reseating tool to grind the seat fiat. Using a buffing mop After applying a stick of buffing compound (a fine abrasive wilh wax) to the revolving mop, move the work from side to side against I he lower half, keeping any edges facing downwards. Remove the lap's headgear and jumper, then screw the cone of the reseating tool into the body of the tap. Turn rhe knuHcd adjuster to lower the cutter onto the worn scat, and then turn the tommy bar to rcgrind the metal.
Draw Tiling yon can give metal a smooth finish by draw filing. Wlh both hands, hold a smooth file al right angles to the work and slide the tool backwards and forwards along the surface. Finally, polish the workpiece with emery cloth wrapped round the file.
Wire wool Wire woo! is a mass of vety thin steel filaments. It is used 10 remove file marks and lo clean oxides and d i n from metals.
F.mery cloth and paper * A plumber needs a set of basic woodworking lools in order to lift Emery is a natural black gfit which, when backed with paper floorboards, notch joists for pipe runs, and attach pipe clips. or cloth, is ideal for polishing metals- There is a range of grades from coarse to fine. For the best finish, use pn>grcssivcly finer abrasives as the work proceeds.
v
WOODWORKING TOOLS
Essential 1 DO Is and materials Engineer's pliers Wire brush Wire wool Emery cloth and emeiy paper
PLIERS Pliers are for improving your grip on small component and for bending and shaping nieial rod and wire.
MAXIMUM LENGTHS FOR DOMESTIC CIRCUITS Engineer's pliers For genera I-pur pose work, bu> a sturdy pair of engineer's pliers. The toothed jaws have a curved section for gripping round stock and also have side cutters for cropping wire. TYPE OF CIRCUIT RING CIRCUIT RADIAL CIRCUIT Slip-joint or water pump pliers The spci.nl feature of dlp-i-lnt pliers is a movable pivot for enlarging the jaw spacing, t he extra-long handles give a good grip on pipes and other fittings. Use smooth-jaw pliers to grip chromed fittings. COOKER up to 13.5kW COOKER from13.Stol8kW Using emery cloth and paper To avoid rounding the crisp edges of a flat component, glue a sheet of emery paper lo a board and rub the metal mi the abrasive {If. To finish round stock or pipes, loop a strip of emery cloth over the tvark and pull alternately on each end (Zf. IMMERSION HEATER up to 3kW SHOWER tip ta 10.3kW SHOWER ftoml0.3 to lO.okW STORAGE HEATER up to 3.375kW STORAGE FAN HEATER up to GkW FIXED LIGHTING excluding switch drops 100 20 S O 2 Clean a pipe with an emery strip 2.5 2.5 4 4 6 2.5 10 10 2.5 4 1 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 2.5 1.5 4 4 1.5 1.5 1 1 15amp 30a mp 5amp 5amp 34m 32m 83m
126-11
t i
/*
to.
I s a
/If t l u 1 Ii If J'Il
/ ss g o, 1 1 USING MCBs
32B m p
c C / 5 s O S
68m 34m 21m 21m 27m 39m 46m 44m 34m 32m B3m 126m
-lili 32amp 32 amp 40a mp 16amp 45amp 50a m p IGamp 32a mp 6am p Samp
79
Artificial ventilation
Severe e l e c t r i c s h o c k c a n m a k e a p e r s o n s t o p b r e a t h i n g . O n c e y o u have freed t h e m f r o m the e l e c t r i c i t y s u p p l y ( w i t h o u t g r a s p i n g the v i c t i m ' s b o d y d i r e c t l y see r i g h t ) , revive t h e m by m e a n s o f artificial ventilation.
Mouth-to-nose
If injuries ro the face make mouth-tomouth ventilation impossible, follow a similar procedure but keep the victim's m o u t h covered w i t h one hand a m i blow firmly into the nose (2).
2 The mouth-toll ose procedure Clear the mouth of tood or loose dentures. Lay the person on his o r her back anil carefully tilt the head back by raising the chin. This prevents the victim's tongue blocking the airway and may in itself be enough t o restart the person's breathing. If it doesn't succeed in d o i n g so quickly, fry more direct methods o f artificial ventilation.
Reviving a baby
If the victim is a baby o r small child, cover both the nose and the mouth at the same time with your o w n mouth and proceed as for moiith-to-moiith ventilation (see below, left), but breathe every three seconds.
To give artificial ventilation lo a small chilli, cover the nose and mouth.
Isolating the victim If a person sustains an electric shock, turn off the supply of electricity immediately, either at the consumsr unit or at a socket (1). If this is not possible, pull the victim fiee with a dry towel, or knock their hand Iree ol the electrical equipment [21 with a piece ol wood or a broom.
Mouth-to-mouth
Keeping the victim's nostrils closed by p i n c h i n g t h e m between t h u m b a n d forefinger, cover the m o u t h with your o w n , m a k i n g a seal all a r o u n d (1). B l o w firmly and l o o k for signs o f the chest rising. Remove your lips and allow the chest to fall. Repeat this procedure, breathing r h y t h m i c a l l y i n t o the m o u t h every six seconds. After ten breaths, phone the emergency services. T h e n continue w i t h the a r t i f i c i a l ventilation till normal breathing resumes or expert help arrives t o take over.
Recovery position
O n c e breathing has started again, put the victim in the recovery position. Turn him o r her face down with the head turned sideways and tilted tip slightly. T h i s keeps the airway open and w i l l also prevent vomit being inhaled if the person is sick. Lift one leg out from the body and support the head by placing the person's left hand, palm d o w n , under his o r her cheek. Keep rhc casualty w a r m with blankets until help arrives.
Place the victim on his or Her side with the bead turned sideways and one teg out from the body.
Glossary
Adaptor A device that LS used to connect more than one appliance to a socket outlet. Airlock A blockage in a pipe caused by a trapped bubble of air. Appliance A functional piece o f e q u i p m e n t connected to the p l u m b i n g - a basin, sink, bath ere. Back-si p h i mage T h e s i p h o n i n g of part of a p l u m b i n g system caused by the failure of mains pressure. Balanced flue A d u c t i n g system which a l l o w s a heating appliance, such as a boiler, to draw' fresh air f r o m , and discharge gases t o , the outside of a b u i l d i n g . Bore 1 lollow p.ii t of a pipe in-11JJ>,_-_ Burr Rough raised edge left o n a metal workpiece after c u t t i n g or filing. Cap-nut T h e nut used to tighten a fitting onto pipework. Cesspool A covered or buried t a n k for the c o l l e c t i o n and storage of seage. Chase T h e groove cut in masonry to accept a pipe o r cable. Or To cut such grooves. C i r c u i t breaker A special switch installed in a c o n s u m e r unit to protect an i n d i v i d u a l circuit. Should a fault occur, the circuit breaker w i l l switch off automatically. Consumer unit A box, situated near the meter, which contains the fuses of M C B s protecting all the circuits. It also houses the m a i n i s o l a t i n g switch that cuts the power to the whole b u i l d i n g . Fuse A protective device c o n t a i n i n g a thin wire that is designed to melt at a given temperature caused by an excess flow of current o n a circuit. Gully T h e o p e n end of a drainagesystem at g r o u n d level, c o n t a i n i n g a water-filled trap. Head T h e height of the surface of water above a specific p o i n t - used as a measurement of pressure; for e x a m p l e , a head of 2 m . H o p p e r head T h e funnel-shaped end of a drainage pipe that receives the discharge f r o m other waste pi pes. I m m e r s i o n beater A n electrical element designed to heat water in a storage cylinder. O v e r f l o w pipe A drainage pipe designed to discharge water w h i c h has risen above its intended level w i t h i n a cistern. Cistern A water-storage t a n k such as found in the roof of a house. D r a i n cock T a p f r o m which a p l u m b i n g system o r single appliance is d r a i n e d . Economy 7 A n Electricity C o m p a n y Scheme which a l l o w s you to charge storage heaters and heat water at less than h a l f the generalpurpose rate. bloat valve A water inlet which is closed by the action of a floatoperated a r m when the water in a cistern reaches the required level. Earth A c o n n e c t i o n between an electrical c i r c u i t a n d the earth (ground). ITFE Polytetrafluorethylenc - used to make tape for sealing threaded p l u m b i n g fittings. Rising main T h e pipe w h i c h supplies water under m a i n s pressure, usually to a storage cistern in the roof. Septic t a n k A sewage-storage t a n k , s i m i l a r to a cesspool, but the waste is treated to render it harmless before it is discharged u n d e r g r o u n d o r into a local waterway. Shoe T h e c o m p o n e n t f o r m i n g the lower end of a vertical drainage pipe and w h i c h t h r o w s water clear of the w a l l i n t o an o p e n gully. Stopcock Valve w h i c h closes a pipe to present the passage of water. Storage heater A space-heating device that stores heat generated by cheap nightrate electricity, then releases it d u r i n g the f o l l o w i n g day. Supplementary bonding T h e c o n n e c t i n g to earth of exposed metal appliances and pipework within a bathroom or kitchen. T h c r mostat A device w h i c h m a i n t a i n s a heating system at a constant temperature. Trap A bent section of p i p e w o r k , c o n t a i n i n g s t a n d i n g water CO prevent the passage of n o x i o u s sewer gases. Water closet - W C A lavatory flushed by water. Water h a m m e r V i b r a t i o n caused by fluctuating water pressure w i t h i n a p l u m b i n g system. W i r i n g Regulations A code of professional practice laid d o w n by the I n s t i t u t i o n of Electrical F.nginners.
Index
Page numbers in italics refer to photographs and illustrations. buffing mop 79; 79 burr 81 Bylaw 30 kit 49 replacement 13; 3 direct-fired water heaters 52 direct systems (plumbing) 67 dishwasher drainage 47; 47 installing 46; 46 drainage systems 6, 7 drain-cleaning equipment 74; 74 drain cock 20 draining plumbing system S drain rods 18,74; IS, 74 drains responsibility 15 rodding 18.74; IK. 74 drills 76
c 0
gas-fired boilers 54; 4 maintenance 60 servicing schemes 60 gate valve S, 20 maintenance 11 gland nut 62; 62 gland packing II; II gravity-fed shower 41 gully IS, 17,81; 17
ABS (plastic) 26 adaptors metal pipe 20; 20 plastic pipe 24; 24 adjustable cutler 49; 49 air luck caring 9 air separator 61 anti-siphon devices 47 appliance 81 artificial ventilation 80 auger drain 74; 74 use of 17 W C 74; 17, 74 capillary joints 20; 20 cap-nut 20, 81 east-iron pipes 19 central heating boilers see boilers control valves 65; 65 controls 57; 57 corrosion inhibitor 59 draioing and filling 59; one-pipe systems 53 problems 58 pumps 64; 64 system fault finder 58 wet 53 centre punch 74; 74 ceramic-disc tap .12; 2 cesspool 18; 18 chain-link cutter 75; 75 chase 81 circuits 79 circuit breaker 81 circulating pump 64 cisterns 81
H
hacksaw 74-5; 74, 75 head (water) 81 heaters bathroom 71 fan-assisted 56 I oca tiog 56 storage 81 wiring 71 hole saw 49 hopper head 17, 81 hose clips 8 hot-air gun 77; 77 ho I-water cylinder draining 8 replacing 50 hot-water systems 50-3; 51, 53 hydraulic pump 16.74; (6, 7j
B
back-siphonage 47 balanced Sue 81 basin fixing 33-4 removing 33 types 31 bathroom heaters 71 bathrooms, safety in 6 baths access to 35 fittings 36 installing 36 plumbing 16; 36 removing 36 renovating enamel 35 supporting plastic 35 types 3J bath/shower mixer 38; 3fi Belmoot valve 62 bending spring 23, 76; 23 bend' metal 20; 20 plastic 24; 24 bib tap 20 replacing washer 10 bidet installing 43; 43 types 4.1; 43 bleed valve 61 blind riveier 77; 77 boilers maintenance (50 servicing schemes 60 types 54 ventilating 54 bonding, supplementary 69-70 bore 81 bottle trap 16 branch pipe clearing 16 installing 46 bra zing 77
earth bonding 6 Economy 7 scheme 73 elbows metal 20; 20 plastic 24; 24 Electrical Regulations 6 electric-shock treatment 80; no electric shower 41 electro chemical action 19 emergency repairs 9 emery cloth 79 emery paper 79 end-feed joints 21; 21 cpoxy puny (for repairs) 9 expansion, allowing for 27
cold-water srorage 8, 49 installing 49; 49 WC28 cold chisel 75; 75 cold-water cistern, draining 8 compression joints making 22; 22 metal 20; 20 plastic 25; 25 connections, making copper to lead 23; 23 copper to steel 21 plastic to metal Z5; 25 steel to plastic 22; 22 waste to soil pipe 34; 14 connecrors metal 20; 20 plastic 24; 24 consumer unit 68, 81 control valve 65; 6* convectors 56 copper pipes 19 corner basin .11 corrosion inhibitor 59-60 counter-top basio 31; U c l ' V C (plastic) 24 Croydon-parrem valve II cylinder, hot water 50-1; 50, 51
I
IEF. Regulations see Wiring Regulations immersion heater 72-3,81; 72,73 indirect systems (plumbingl 6: 7 inspection chamber 15; 15 integral-ring joints 21; 21 interceptor trap 15 clearing 18; 18 inverted pipe loop 59; 59 iron pipes 19; 19
fault finder, heating system 58 files 78; 78 fittings metal 20; 20 plastic 24; 24 flanges side entry 42; 42 Surrey 42; 42 flap valve, replacing 12; 12 float-arm adjustment 14; 14 float replacement 14 float valve 81; 13 changing 14 closing 8 renovating 13, 14 types 13 flood prevention 47 flux soldering 76 fro7.cn pipes, thawing 9; 9 fuse 81 fused connection units 72; 72
joints
capillary 20; 20 compression 20, 22, 6; 20, 22, 26 dismantling 25 metal 20; 20 plastic 24-6; 24 push-fit 25-6; 25,26 soldered 21; 21
galvanized steel pipes 19; 19 garden tap 48; 4ft gas torch 21,77; 21, 77
M
main switch equipment marking tools 74 measuring tools 74 metal bender) 76 metal-eutiing tools 74, 75 miniature valve 8: X miser laps 11,32; 32 M u P V C (plastic) 26
programmers 57; 57 pump-assisted shower 39 pump servicing 64 push-fit joints 25-7; 26, 27
small-bore waste system 30; 30 snips 75; 75 soil pipe cutting 29; 29 unblocking 17; 17 soil waste 34 solar heating 52; 52 soldering 76-7; 76, 77 joints 21 solid-fuel boilers 54; 54 maintenance 60 tOrrent-weld joints 27; 27 spanners 77; 77 split pipes 9 spraybeads 39 spring dividers 74; 74 stainless-steel pipes 19; l y stopcock 11, 81; 24 storage heaters 68, 81 storage tanks 49 Switched coooection unit 72; 72
V
valves adding extra 8 appliance 46 bleed 61 leaking 62 radiaror 62 self-bore 46 types 8 zone control 57; 57 vented hot-water cylinder 50; SO vice, engineers' 75; 75
R
radiators 55; 55 bleeding filj 61 mounting 63; 63 positioning 56 removing 61; 61 replacing 63 radiator valve 62; 62 recessed basin 31; 31 recovery position 80 repairs, emergency 9 reseating tool 79; 79 re verse-pressure tap 10 rim-supply bidet 43; 43 rising main 81 rising-spindle tap 32; 32 riveter 77; 77 rodding points IS room heaters 56 roomstats see room thermostats room thermostats 57; 57 round baths 35 rule, steel 74; 74
N
nailed pipes 9 noisy cistern, curing 14 non-rising spindle tap 32; 32
w
W C see water closet wall-hung hasin 31; 31 wash basin see basin washdowo pan 28, 79; 79 washer, replacing 10, 13; 10, 13 washing machines 46-7; 46,47 waste-disposal units 45; 45 waste pipes, cleansing 16; 16 plastic 26 waste system 6 small-bore 30; 30 water closet 81 water-closet auger 17, 74; 17, 74 water-closet cistero 8, 12-14; 12, 13,14 water-closet pan 28; 28 unblocking 17; 17 water-closet, replacing 28 water-closet suile 28-30; 2*, 30 installing 30; 30 water hammer 6,14, 81 water heater, instantaneous 52; 52 water heating, night rate 73 Water Regulations 6 water softeners 48 weeping joints, repairing 21, 22, 25, 27; 25,27 sver ceniraI-heating system 53; 53 svire brush 79; 79 wire wool 79 Wiring Regulations 6, 39, 69, 81 woodworking tools 79 wrenches 78; 78
0
oil-fired boilers maintenance 60 servicing schemes 6U types 54 olive 20; 22 O-ring seal 11; U overflow' pipe 81 overflow, preventing 47; 47 over-rim supply bidet 43; 43
T
tanks 49 storage 49 plumbing 49 laok cutter 49; 49 lapconoector 24 taps draining 8 fitting basin 33 fittiog bath 36 kitchen 44; 44 mechanisms 32; 32 repairing 10 replacing 33 types 10, 32; 32 tees metal 20; 20 plastic 24; 24 thawing frozen pipes 9; 9 thermal-norc cylinder 37,51; 37,51 thermostatic mixer 38 thermostatic radiator valve 57; 57 thermostats 57, 81 timer 57 tins nips 77 tool kit 74 traps 81 clearing 16 compression joints 26; 26 shallow 37; 37 types 16; 16 try square 74; 74 tube benders 76; 76 tube cutter 21, 75; 21, 75 tubular trap 16; 16 two-pipe drainage system 15; 15
P
PB (plastic) 24 PP (plastic) 26 PTFE tape 11, 22, 81 PVC (plastic) 21 pan connector 29; 29 pedestal basin 31; 31 pillar tap 10; 10 pipe bender 23, 76; 23 pipe cutting 21; 21 pipe ioints 20; 20 pipe runs concealing 31; 51 pipes bending 23; 23 draining 8 metal 19; 19 plastic 24, 26; 24, 26 sizes 19 plastic pipes bending 24 joining 25, 27 joints and fittings 25-7 plastics, types of 24, 26 pliers 79; 79 plumbing, concealing 31, 40 Plumbing Regulations 6 plumbiog system draining 9 refilling 9 plunger 16, 74; 16, 74 Ports mouth-pat tern valve 13; 13 power showers 39 installing 42; 42
s
safety, bathroom 69 saws 74-7; 74, 75 .scriber 74; 74 septic tank 18,81; 18 service pipe 81 shaver socket 71; 71 sheet-metal cutter 75; 75 shower computer-coo trolled 39; 39 drainage 37 enclosing 40-1; 40, 41 installing 41-2; 41,42 instantaneous 38, 41; 38, 41 selecting 37 types 37 water requirements 37 wiring 71; 71 shower cubicle 40, 41 shower miser decks 32 shower mixers 38; 38 shower trays 40; 41 shrouded-head tap 10; 0 single-stack drainage system 15; /5 sink accessories 44; 44 clearing 16 installing 45; 45 types 44; 44 sink trap 26 siphonic pan 28 skirting coovector 56; 56 slip coupling 65; 65
Y
yard gully 17; 17
u
undcrlluor heating 66 installing 67 unvemed cylinders 51; 5/
contains the most detailed, comprehensive and up-to-date advice available on home plumbing and central heating.
on has been extensively rewritten to include information on all new products, techniques and regulations.
in
Whether you're fixing a leaking tap or installing an entire central heating system, this book contains all the information you need to get the job done safely and with the minimum of fuss.
Contents include: >AIRS TAPS, SINKS AND KITCHEN APPLIANCES TOILETS, BATHS AND SHOWERS BOILERS AND RADIATORS IDENTIFYING FAULTS AND MAINTENANCE SAFETY TIPS TOOLS FOR THE JOB
With over 400 illustrations and photographs, and clear
step-by-step instructions, Collins Complete Plumbing
& Central Heating will help turn your good intentions into a job well done.
UK 8.99"
ISBN
0-00-7161.41-6