Burda "Easy fashion" E 971 Download Patter n Tu n i c D r e s s e s I n s t r u c t i o n s

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 Length from waist: A 59 cm (2314 ins), B, D, E 47 cm (1812 ins), C 41 cm (1614 ins) Materials: A, brown print tunic, on page 12 Silk batiste, 140 cm (55 ins) wide: sizes 34, 36: 1.45 m (134 yds), size 38: 1.50 m (134 yds), size 40: 1.55 m (134 yds), size 42: 1.60 m (134 yds), size 44: 1.70 m (178 yds). 0.25 m (38 yd) Vilene/Pellon G 785, 90 cm (36 ins) wide. 1 invisible zip, 40 cm (16 ins) long and a special presser foot. Elastic, about 7 mm (14 in) wide. Sewing thread. B, dress with large print owers, on page 11 Batiste, 140 cm (55 ins) wide: with large print: sizes 34, 36: 1.30 m (112 yds), size 38: 1.35 m (158 yds), size 40: 1.40 m (158 yds), size 42: 1.50 m (134 yds), size 44: 1.60 m (134 yds), with small print (contrasting fabric): 0.50 m (58 yd), for all sizes. Interfacing and notions, see view A. C, dotted tunic, on page 29 Satin with crosswise stretch, 145 cm (57 ins) wide: size 34, 36: 1.40 m (158 yds), size 38: 1.45 m (134 yds), size 40: 1.50 m (134 yds), size 42: 1.55 m (134 yds), size 44: 1.60 m (134 yds). 0.25 m (38 yd) Vilene/Pellon G 785, 90 cm (36 ins) wide. 1 invisible zip, 40 cm (16 ins) long and a special presser foot. Elastic, 2 cm (34 in) wide: sizes 34, 36: 0.80 m (78 yd), sizes 38, 40: 0.90 m (1 yd), sizes 42, 44: 1.00 m (118 yds). 4 eyelets, inner about 5 mm (316 in). 4 cord end pieces. Sewing thread. D, red owered dress, on page 14 Batiste, 150 cm (59 ins) wide: sizes 34, 36: 1.40 m (158 yds), sizes 38, 40: 1.45 m (134 yds), size 42, 44: 1.50 m (134 yds). Seersucker with lengthwise stripes (contrasting fabric) , 140 cm (55 ins) wide: 0.60 m (34 yd) for all sizes. 0.65 m (78 yd) Vilene/Pellon G 785, 90 cm (36 ins) wide. 1 invisible zip, 40 cm (16 ins) long and a special presser foot. 16 buttons. Sewing thread. Note: To make up the owered dress a l Johanna (page 22), you will also need cotton lace trim, 7 mm (14 in) wide: 1.20 m (138 yds). E, Metallic dress, on page 40 Metallic voile broderie anglaise, 135 cm (53 ins) wide: sizes 34, 36: 1.20 m (138 yds), size 38: 1.25 m
Copyright 2008 by Verlag Aenne Burda

A C

A, B, C Pattern pieces 1 to 5 D Pattern pieces 1 to 4, 6 to11 E Pattern pieces 1 to 4 Size 34 222222 Size 36 333333 Size 38 444444 Size 40 555 Size 42 666666 Size 44 777777

D E

A B

C D

C BDE A

C BDE A

(112 yds), size 40: 1.40 m (158 yds), sizes 42, 44: 1.50 m (134 yds). 1 invisible zip, 40 cm (16 ins) long and a special presser foot. Sewing thread. Recommended fabrics: Lightweight dress fabrics with or without elastane. Preparation: The pattern pieces are printed on 24 sheets of paper each framed by a thin line. Please wait until all sheets have been printed. Arrange the sheets correctly (see the extra sheet with the overview of printed pages). Cut each of the sheets along the thin line at the upper edge and the right edge, beginning with the lower left sheet. Stick the pieces together exactly on the thin lines. Then cut out the pattern pieces. Follow the different lines for the style views A, B, C, D and E. View D only: The tab markings on pieces 2 and 4 are marked for size 34. Remark the lines accordingly for the other sizes. The button markings on piece 7 are for size 34. Remark them accordingly for the other sizes: mark the top pair the same distance from upper edge as for size 34, the bottom pair is in the same place for all sizes, mark the other centred in between.

Important: The pattern pieces do not include seam and hem allowances. Cutting out: The pattern layouts on page 2 show how to arrange the pattern pieces on the fabric. The grain arrow marked on the pattern pieces must run parallel to the selvages of the fabric. Views A, B, C,: 1 front yoke on a fold x2 2 front on a fold x1 3 back yoke x4 4 back x2 5 sleeve x2 View B only, contrasting fabric: a) narrow band for front yoke joining seam cut on bias grain, 45 cm (1734 ins) long, 2 cm (34 in) wide (incl. seam allowances), b) 2 bands for back yoke joining seams cut on bias grain, each 25 cm (10 ins) long, 2 cm (34 in) wide (incl. seam allowances), c) bias piping strip for neckline, 95 cm (3712 ins) long altogether, 4 cm (158 ins) wide (incl. seam allowances), d) 2 bias binding strips for lower sleeve edges, each 55 cm (2134 ins) long, 4 cm (158 ins) wide (incl. seam allowances). View C only: e) 2 tie bands (back), each 70 cm
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Pattern layouts A, Silk batiste, 140 cm wide, sizes 34 to 44 B, Batiste, 140 cm wide, sizes 34 to 44 B, Contrasting fabric, 140 cm wide, sizes 34 to 44 C, Satin with crosswise stretch, 145 cm wide, sizes 34 to 44

D, Batiste, 150 cm wide, sizes 34 to 44 D, Seersucker, striped lengthwise, 140 cm wide, sizes 34 to 44 Fold fabric as shown in the pattern layout, right side facing in. (2734 ins) long, 8 cm (314 ins) wide (incl. seam allowances), f) 2 tie bands (sleeves) each 70 cm (2734 ins) long, 3 cm (114 ins) wide (incl. seam allowances). View D: Batiste: 1 front yoke on a fold x2 2 front on a fold x1 3 back yoke x4 4 back x2 6 sleeve x2 9 pocket x2 Contrasting fabric: 7 front band x2 8 collar x4 9 pocket x2 10 tab (hem) x2 11 tab (sleeve) x2 g) 2 bias binding strips for pockets, each 16 cm (638 ins) long, 4 cm (158 ins) wide (incl. seam allowances). View E: 1 front yoke on a fold x2 2 front on a fold x1 3 back yoke x4 4 back x2 h) 2 bias strips for armholes, each 23 cm (918 ins) long, 4 cm (158 ins) wide (incl. seam allowances). Seam and hem allowances: Use a ruler and tailor's chalk to mark seam and hem allowances on the fabric round the edges of the pattern pieces: for views A, B, D and E 1.5 cm (58 in) at all seams and edges, for view C 3 cm (114 ins) for hems, 2 cm (34 in) for sleeve hems, 1.5 cm 1 (58 in) at all other seams and edges. Cut the fabric pieces on these lines. Interfacing: Cut out all pieces shaded grey on

E, Metallic voile, 135 cm wide, sizes 42 and 44 sizes 34 to 40

the pattern layout also of interfacing on the same grain line as the fabric pieces and with seam allowances. Iron interfacing on the wrong side of the outer yoke pieces. Transfer pattern lines to the fabric: Lay interfaced yoke pieces right sides together with respective noninterfaced pieces, pin on paper pattern pieces again. Transfer pattern piece outlines (seam and hem lines) and all other pattern lines and markings except the grain line to the wrong fabric side with a tracing wheel and Burda tracing paper (see instructions included with the pack). Use basting thread to transfer abutting lines and tab markings to right side of fabric for view D: hand-baste each fabric layer along these lines.

marked yoke joining lines on the front and back pieces from * to * . Hold the bobbin threads and push the edges of the fabric together along the threads until they t the respective yoke edges. Knot threads. Distribute gathering evenly (1). 2. Stitch on outer yoke pieces Pin the front interfaced yoke right sides together with the upper front edge, pin the back interfaced yoke pieces right sides together with the upper edge of the back pieces. Work from the wrong side of the front and the back to stitch exactly be2

right fabric side

wrong fabric side

interfacing

Construction: Place the right fabric sides together to baste and stitch the seams. Secure the start and end of the seams by backstitching.

A, Brown print dress 1. Gathering Stitch lines of machine basting (longest stitch setting) to each side of the

tween the lines of gathering (2). Press the allowances onto the yokes. Remove any gathering threads which are visible on the right fabric side of the garment . 3. Invisible zip and centre back seam Neaten the allowances at the back edges of the dress. Mark the end of the slit by making small clips into the allowances. Open the zip and push the coil back with your thumbnail to reveal the seam between the band and the coil. Place the open zip right side facing down

Copyright 2008 by Verlag Aenne Burda

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Burda Download E 971, Instructions for Tunic Dresses

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the shoulder seams. Stitch (7). Press the seam allowances open. 5. Face edge of neckline Lay the back non-interfaced yoke pieces (= inside yoke pieces) right sides together with the front noninterfaced yoke (= inside yoke piece), pin the shoulder seams.

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6. Side seams: Lay the front right sides together with the back, pin the side seams. Stitch. Press the seam allowances open and neaten. 7. Sleeves To gather tops of sleeves, stitch lines of machine basting (longest stitch setting) to each side of the marked seam line from to . Do not pull the bobbin threads yet. Fold the sleeves lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin the sleeve seams. Stitch (11). Press seam allowances open and neaten. Neaten allowance at lower edges of sleeves and press to inside. Topstitch lower edges of sleeves 1 cm (38 in) wide as marked on the pattern for the elastic casing. Cut two pieces of elastic each 13 cm (514 ins) long and insert at lower edges of sleeves (12), pin ends
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on the right back opening edge. The distance between the band and the fabric edge of the seam allowances is 5 mm (316 in) = seam allowance width minus 1 cm (38 in) band width. Pin the top end of the zip band in place at the edge of the seam allowance. Bottom end of zip will overhang marked end of opening. Place the presser foot on the zip so that the coil is in the notch to the right of the needle (3). Stitch the zip in place from the top to the marked end of the opening. Close the zip. Place the other zip band face down on the left back opening edge and pin in place at the top (4). Open the zip again. Place the presser foot on the top end of the zip so that the coil in in the notch to the left of the needle (5). Sew the zip in place from the top to end of opening, then close the zip. Lay the back pieces right sides together, pin the centre

Stitch (8). Press the seam allowances open. Press the allowance at the joining edge to the inside. Lay the inside yoke right sides together with the outer yoke, pin edges of neckline together. Fold back edges of inside yoke outward 5 mm (316 in) before opening

in place and stitch. Topstitch remainder of lower sleeve edges. 8. Setting in sleeves First pin sleeve just along edge of underarm curve with right sides of fabric facing. Match the sleeve and side seams as well as markings 6 on the sleeves and edges of armholes (13). Then match the shoulder marking at the sleeve caps with the shoulder seams and pin. Hold the bobbin threads of the lines of machine basting and push the fabric of the sleeve cap together until it
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back seam from the lower edges to to the slit mark, turning the loose lower end of the zip back toward the seam allowance. Stitch the seam, end stitching as close as possible to the last stitch of the zip seams (6). Press seam allowances open. 4. Shoulder seams Lay the front piece right sides together with the back pieces. Pin
Copyright 2008 by Verlag Aenne Burda

edges, pin in place on edge of neckline. Fold allowances of dress at opening edges outward and pin in place on edge of neckline over facing (9). Stitch along edge of neckline. Trim seam allowances, clip curves. Turn yoke and allowances at opening edges to inside. Pin yoke in place over joining seams, turn in edge of yoke and sew on along zip band. Baste edges of armholes together (10). Topstitch yoke close to edge of neckline and joining seam. Topstitch yoke again 7 mm (14 in) wide.

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ts the edge of the armhole. Pin the remainder of the sleeve cap in place (14). Baste the sleeve from the sleeve side. Try on the dress to check the t of the sleeves. Stitch the sleeves from the sleeve side, beginning over the side seam. Stitch close to the basting but not over the basting otherwise it will be difficult to remove the basting thread after stitching. Neaten the seam allowances and lay toward the sleeves. 9. Hem Neaten the hem allowance, press to the inside. Topstitch the edge of the hem from the right fabric side 7 mm (14 in) wide. B, Dress with large print owers Construct dress as for view A, steps 1, 2 and 4 . 10. Piping, neckline Fold the bias strip (c) for the piping in half lengthwise, wrong side facing in. Press. Pin bias strip right sides together with edge of neckline so that the open edges lie on the seam allowance. Stitch 5 mm (316 in) next to fold edge (15).

11. Double the yoke Stitch the shoulder seams on the non-interfaced yoke pieces (= inside yoke pieces). Press the seam allowances open. Press the allowance at the joining edges to the inside. Lay the inside yoke right sides together with the outside yoke, pin the edges of the neckline together and stitch exactly in line of bias piping joining seam. Trim the seam allowances (16). Turn the yoke, baste the edges so that the piping overlaps 5 mm (316 in) wide (see illustration 17). Baste the inside yoke over the joining seams, baste the armhole edge
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13. Side seams Lay the front right sides together with the back, pin the side seams. Stitch. Press seam the allowances open and neaten. 14. Sleeves To gather tops of sleeves, stitch lines of machine basting (longest stitch setting) to each side of the marked seam line from to . Do not pull the bobbin threads yet. Cut off the allowances at the lower edges of the sleeves. Pin the bias binding strips (d) right sides together with the lower edges of the sleeves, stitch 1 cm (38 in) wide. Press the seam allowances onto the binding. Press the allowance at the other long edge of the binding to the inside (18). Fold the sleeve lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin sleeve seams, go on the pin ends of binding together, unfolding pressed edges of binding down again. Stitch (19). Press seam allowances open and neaten. Fold the binding half to the inside and pin in place over the joining seam. Work from the right side of the sleeve to stitch close to the edge of the binding between the markings (20). Cut two pieces of elastic each 13 cm (514 ins) long and insert into binding, pin ends of elastic
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19 20

17

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and the back edges together. Topstitch close to edge of neckline. 12. Bands Press the long edges of the bias strips for the bands (a and b) 5 mm (316 in) wide to the wrong side this will be easy if you use a bias strip shaping tool (Prym). Pin the bands over the yoke joining seams. Stitch the bands in place close to the edges, catching the inside yoke (17). Insert invisible zip and stitch centre back seam as for view A, step 3, leaving the top ends of the bands overhanging the edge of the neckline. Finally, fold the top ends of the zip bands to the inside and sew in place.

in place and stitch. Topstitch close to remaining edges of binding. Finish construction of dress as for view A, steps 8 and 9 . C, Dotted dress Construct dress as for view A, steps 1 to 6 but interupt stitching by 2 cm (34 in) in one side seam at the marked hem line to insert the elastic.

Copyright 2008 by Verlag Aenne Burda

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15. Tie bands Fold the fabric strips (e) in half lengthwise with the right side of the fabric facing in. Stitch 3 cm (114 ins) next to the fold edge and across one end each. Trim the seam allowances, trim diagonally at the corners (21). Turn the bands. Press. Baste the open ends of the bands each on the back armhole edges below the yoke joining seam.

the bands. Set in the sleeves as for view A, step 8. 17. Hem, elastic casing Neaten the hem allowance, press to the inside and topstitch 2.5 cm (1 in) wide for the elastic casing. Use a safety pin as a bodkin to insert the elastic through the opening in the side seam into the edges of the hem. Sew the ends of the elastic together. D, Red owered dress Construct dress as for view A, steps 1 and 2 but when gathering the front the leave the edge between the marked band placement lines ungathered. 18. Front band Stitch the band pieces right sides together, leaving the upper edge open. Trim the seam allowances (25). Turn the band. Press. Pin the band on the front and the front yoke at the placement lines. Stitch the band in place 5 mm (316 in) next to edges (26). 19. Pockets Stitch two pocket pieces each (of fabric and contrasting fabric) right sides together, leaving the upper edges open. Trim the seam allowances, clip the allowances along the curves (27). Turn the pockets. Press. Trim
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the edge of the binding in and pin in place over the joining seam. Work from the right fabric side of the pocket to stitch in line of binding joining seam, catching inside half. Pin the pockets on the front at the placement lines and stitch in place 5 mm (316 in) wide. Insert invisible zip and stitch centre back seam as for view A, steps 3 and 4. 20. Collar Lay the interfaced collar pieces (= undercollar pieces) right sides together with the non-interfaced collar pieces. Pin the edges together and stitch, leaving the joining edges open. Trim the seam allowances, clip along the curves (29). Turn the collar pieces. Press. Baste the joining edges of the collar together.

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16. Sleeves To gather tops of sleeves, stitch lines of machine basting (longest stitch setting) to each side of the marked seam line from to . Do not pull the bobbin threads yet. Fold the sleeves lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin the sleeve seams. Stitch. Press the seam allowances open and neaten. Attach the eyelets on the lower edges of the sleeves as marked on the pattern, catching in small bits of interfaced fabric on the wrong side for reinforcement. Neaten the allowance the lower edge of the sleeve and press to inside but do not yet stitch. Fold the bands (f) in half lengthwise, right side facing in. Stitch 7 mm (14 in) next to fold edge. Leave a length of thread hanging. Insert thread into a darning needle and knot securely (22). Push the needle eye rst through the fabric tube (23). Lay bands inside hem allowances, pass the ends out through the eyelets. Topstitch the lower edges of the sleeves 1.5 cm (58 in) wide, catching the hem allowances (24). Slip the cord end pieces over the ends of the bands. Knot the ends of

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For the owered dress a l Johanna, pin lace trim on along the outer edges of the collar pieces (on the top collar piece). Stitch the trim in place close to the edge. Pin the collar pieces to the edge of the neckline with the undercollar underneath. The front edges of the collar meet in centre front, the back edges of the collar meet over the teeth of the zip (30). Face the edges of the neckline and stitch the side seams as for view A, steps 5 and 6. Topstitch the yoke just once close to the joining seams.
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22 23

24

off the allowance at the upper edge. Pin the bias binding strips right sides together with the upper edges of the pockets and stitch 1 cm (38 in) wide. Press the binding strips up. Lay the ends of the binding strips around the edges of the pockets to the inside (28). Now lay the binding around the upper edges, turn

Copyright 2008 by Verlag Aenne Burda

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21. Sleeve and hem tabs Fold the tab pieces each on the fold line, right side facing in. Stitch edges together, leaving a bit of seam open for turning. Trim seam allowances (31). Turn the tabs. Press. Topstitch the tabs close to the edges, sewing up the opening in the seam. Work the buttonholes. Pin the straight end of each tab on the wrong side of the dress and sleeve at the joining lines. Stitch on the ends of the tabs in a square and crisscross. Sew the buttons on the right fabric side of the dress and sleeves centred over the crisscross stitching. Finish construction of dress as for view A, steps 7 to 9. Omit elastic casing on sleeve.
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Attach the outer yoke pieces as for view A, step 2. The allowances at the side yoke edges overhang the edges of the armholes. Insert the invisible zip and stitch the centre back seam as for view A, step 3. 23. Double the yoke, shoulder seams Press the allowance at the joining edges and at the shoulder edges of the inside yoke pieces to the inside. Lay the inside yoke pieces right sides together with the respective outer yoke pieces and pin together at edges of neckline and armholes. Fold the back edges of the inside yoke outward 5 mm (316 in) before the edges of the opening, pin in place on edge of neckline. Fold the allowances of dress at the edges of the opening outward and pin on edge of neckline over facing (see also illus. 9). Stitch along the edges of the arm-

holes and neckline (33). Trim the seam allowances, clip the allowances along the curves. Turn the yokes and the allowances at the edges of the opening to the inside. Pin the yokes in place over the joining seam, sew by hand. Turn in the yokes and sew on at the zip bands . Lay the outer back yokes right sides together with the outer front yoke, pin the shoulder seams. Stitch (34). Spread the seam allowances open and insert between the yoke pieces. Sew the shoulder seam edges of the yokes together by hand (35).
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E, Metallic dress Gather dress as for view A, step 1. 22. Side seams, armholes Lay the back pieces right sides together with the front, pin the side seams. Stitch. Press the seam allowances open and neaten. Fold the bias strips (h) in half, wrong side facing in. Press. Pin the bias strips right sides together with the edges of the armholes so that the fold edge lies 1 cm (38 in) wide on the garment piece and the open edges lie on the seam allowance. Work from the wrong side of the dress to stitch the edges of the armholes onto the bias strips. Trim the seam allowances, clip curves (32). Turn the bias strips to the inside. Press the edges and topstitch close to the edges.

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Neaten hem allowance, press to the inside and then work from the right side of the fabric to stitch the hem 7 mm (14 in) wide.

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Copyright 2008 by Verlag Aenne Burda GmbH & Co. KG, Am Kestendamm 1, D-77652 Offenburg. All styles, pattern pieces and illustrations are copyrighted. Copying for commercial use is prohibited. The publisher cannot be held responsible for damages occuring from improper use of materials, improper use of tips or instructions or use of completed models.