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LIFE
SARAWAK
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MY LIFE IN SARAWAK
BY
PREFACE BY
SIR
GOVERNOR OF THE STRAITS COLONY HIGH COMMISSIONER FOR THE FEDERATED MALAY STATES AND LATE CONSUL-GENERAL FOX BORNEO
METHUEN &
36
CO. LTD.
W.G.
ESSEX STREET
LONDON
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3 1924 021
573 468
The
tine
original of
tiiis
book
is in
restrictions in
text.
http://www.archive.org/details/cu31924021573468
PREFACE
IT
and
is
well
for
the
that
they should find an advocate in their Ranee, for she loves them. To know Ranee
is
Brooke
Life in
those
who
read her
won
only
their confidence
by her sympathy.
way
to get at
and though the native population of this section of Borneo is divided into at least two sections, Malays and Dyaks, differing widely in religion, customs,
still
members
over
of the great
spread
the
Malay
any of
well for
Malay race
tell
writer to
They do
it,
so long
indeed, superficial
how they
it
is
a matter of
viii
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
them whether they are treated well or ill. Those who take the trouble to win his regard know that the Malay is as keenly interested in his own and his country's affairs as are those of other nationalities. He is humble about his own capacity, and that of his fellow-countrymen, to organize and
indifference to
ment and to ensue it. He will, if properly approached and considerately handled by Europeans, be the first
to
that they are more trustworthy in matters of justice and money, and that they have a conception of
duty, of method,
him.
Treat him
remember that he represents the people of the country for whose benefit, as Lord
reasonably, justly,
Curzon of Kedleston
and, though the white
said,
the white
man
retains in his
which
is
Malay
will
tion, gratitude,
and
loyal support,
of jealousy or impatience.
If one bears in mind, as indeed one must, that the growth of the white man's
and the adoption of that advice which we say makes for good government, mean always the
influence,
and the
curtail-
ment or
ful
very often
bad
his
it is
'
PREI^ACE
ix
fate with
The
and
such a good, often even a charming, grace. Malay does not always approve of our methods,
sometimes they are really indefensible, but, though he disapproves, what is he to say? To whom is he to complain, and how ? We sometimes
learn his language, because that
benefit;
is
take trouble to inquire about his customs and other matters concerning him and his
life
;
we even
make
himself
heard
effectively.
He
than almost
any other thing, and therefore, being a fatalist, he accepts what comes because he knows there is no other way. Given his nature, his traditions, his way
of
life
through
all
disabilities,
how (is he
do otherwise
to
When
you
them of breach
or even of
little
wishes or ambitions
.''
Western people,
sometimes
find
in
it
humble or subordinate
difficult to assert
positions,
Malay it is impossible. That being so, one would imagine that every white man who comes into a position of authority amongst such a people, so circumstanced, will be doubly and trebly careful to remember that the greater his power, the more need there is not only to
be their rights
;
to the
SARAWAK AND
it
ITS
PEOPLE
when
if
he knows
be to
his
is
right
against
all
comers, and
need
taking
own detriment. To betray Malays, is like a mean advantage of a blind man who has
is
To
take advantage of
I
am
not writing
is
;
ways of rival powers for in both these cases the means employed are less regarded than the end to be I am only gained, and success justifies all things.
the
man when,
for
to administer
who
That was the case of Sarawak when Sir James Brooke undertook its pacification and development in 1 84 1. This is not the place to describe the
first
moral of an
parallel. James Brooke must have been a man for whom the soft life of cities had no attraction, but he did not approach the problem of enforcing peace in a greatly
and suppressing piracy on its coasts, in the spirit of an adventurer; he described his objects in the following words " It is a grand experiment, which, if
:
it
succeeds, will
people;
and
their
children
shall
bless
PREFACE
me.
If
it
XI
please
God
to permit
me
to give a
stamp
to this country
I
shall
which shall last after I am no more, have lived a life which emperors might envy.
to the
If
by dedicating myself
task
am
able to
shall
indeed
Those were his intentions, and to that end he worked for twenty-six years with a success as
remarkable as his own devotion and abnegation of
James Brooke died in 1868 he left to his nephew and appointed successor, the present Rajah of Sarawak, a peaceful and contented country, the hearts of whose people he had won by
self-interest.
When
and their happiness, and to them he gave his life and energy and everything he possessed. It was a remarkable achievement, and he left to the country of his adoption the " stamp " of his heart's desire. Much more than that, he established a precedent on which his successor has acted with unswerving consistency for the last forty-six years it is the stamp of Brooke rule, and so long as it lasts
peculiarities,
all will
Interesting
and
successful as
by Sir James Brooke and the present Rajah, I cannot go into them. It is sufficient to say that Sarawak has been ruled by the Brookes " for the benefit of the
xii
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
Mr. Alleyne Ireland, who was well qualified to form a sound judgment, wrote in 1905, after spending two months in travelling up and down the coast and in the interior
people of the country," and
"
I
have formed of the administration of the country without a fear that I shall lay myself open to the
charge of exaggeration.
administrative
of
systems
the tropics as
in
may be
Empire except the African Colonies, I can say that in no country which I have ever visited are there to be observed so many signs of a wise and generous rule, such abundant indications of good government, as are to be seen on every hand in Sarawak." Again, in the same book, Far Eastern
Tropics,
Mr.
Ireland
I
wrote
"
The
impression of
is
me
that of a
in
land
full
of contentment
man
has
pushed
something of
his
extreme conviction.
There
has
been here a
of
tacit
good government in the State are the white man and not in the native
control
to
;
be found
in
remains,
therefore, in
is
by
knowledge
PREFACE
of the country and of the
praise from
Xlll
people."
critic,
That
is
high
an experienced
and the
Malays.
striking
last
words of Mr.
Sarawak,
which
is
most
and which must command the admiration of every man, especially of those who have been
associated
intimately
with
the
administration
is
of
that throughout
practically their
modest income. That has been the admirable and unusual " stamp " of Brooke rule to live with the
:
people,
to
make
their
happiness
the
first
con-
sideration,
and to refuse wealth at their expense. Nothing would have been easier certainly for the present Rajah than to live at ease in some pleasant Western land, with perhaps an occasional visit to
Sarawak, and to devote to his own use revenues which he has spent for the benefit of Sarawak and its
people.
The
;
State
to
is
agricultural
many
natural
to
fill
concessions to Europeans
would have meant a large accession of revenue, and no one would have thought it strange had the Ruler
xiv
SARAWAK AND
to
ITS
PEOPLE
seemed
good
him on
himself.
was perfecdy natural, and, had they thought otherwise, it would have made
would have considered that
difference, -for
is
no
it
The Rajahs
all
of
honour to
them for their high purpose. That the tradition they have established by seventy-two years of devotion, of
personal' care of the affairs of Sarawak, should be
all
who
I
love Malays.
make a
:
final
It is this
"
once the strength and the weakness of a despotic form of government than the present condition of
Sarawak,
for if
it
which
of
it
now
enjoys, the
power of an unwise
be
admitted
as
barbarism
must
a
is,
necessary corollary.
The advent
of such a ruler
however,
in the highest
degree improbable."
Every one must hope that a departure from the Brooke tradition is impossible, and as the matter is
wholly within the discretion of the present Rajah,
who
knows
better than
anyone
else
what
is
necessary to
PREFACE
confirmed and secured by his
XV
own
rule,
there
is
no
real
Any
to take
up and help
to per-
When
me
the time
first
Rajah
Brooke stamp to
:
it
please
God
to permit
to give a
I
last after
am no
have lived a life which emperors might envy," and he will begin his rule with the knowledge that his predecessor spent his whole life in making
more,
I
shall
INTRODUCTION
Brooke.
this
is
ruler of Sarawak. one of the largest islands of the world. The Dutch occupy three parts of its territory. The
how he became
North Borneo Company, a group of Englishin the north, and Sarawak, with its five hundred miles of coast-line and its fifty thousand square miles of land, is situated on Until some four hundred years ago, the north-west. at the time of Pigafetta's visit to Brunei, Borneo was
British
Dutch,
Portuguese,
and English
have attempted to gain a footing in the island. Dutch, however, were the most successful, for
a portion of this
The
it
was
much
disputed land.
It
must be
and 1806, the Admiralty issued a warning as to the dangers attendant upon English merchants engaging in commercial ventures with the Sultan of Brunei
and
his people.
About
forty years
went by without
xvHi
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
August 1839,
James Brooke, the future white Rajah of Sarawak, appeared upon the scene, and it was due to his bold but vague designs that peace, prosperity, and just government were subsequently established in a country hitherto torn with dissension and strife. James Brooke had always felt a great interest in those lands of the Malayan Archipelago. As a very young man he had held a commission in the army of the British East India Company, and had seen active service in Burmah. He was seriously wounded during the Burmese war, invalided home, and finally resigned his commission. He then made two voyages to the Strait Settlements and to China, and it is
to
be supposed that
At
his
which
he invested
in
which
he
set
sail
in
1838
the
Eastern
Archipelago.
and
his terri-
what
Rajah.
is
called
Cape Datu,
now belonging
to
the
Whilst staying at
by the Malays of Sarawak against their Sultan, for both the Sultan and his Brunei nobles (many of whom were of Arabic descent), in order to enrich
themselves, had instituted a tyrannous and oppressive
government
against
the
people.
When
Brooke
INTRODUCTION
arrived in Sarawak, he
xix
made
Muda
Hence his title Rajah Muda and Sultan Muda, meaning heir - apparent. They made friends, when the Malay Governor confided in Brooke and besought his help in quelling the
heir to the Sultanate.
rebellion.
rebellion
was
fall
soon at an end.
The
rebels,
determined not to
their
become
and
in
their
Rajah
favour-
and Governor.
Rajah
1841 Brooke
joicing of
Sarawak amidst the repopulation. Rajah Muda Hassim, as representative of the Sultan, signed a document resigning his title and authority to the Englishman, and in 1842 Brooke, being desirous of obtaining
of
its
in
Sarawak, visited
the
potentate
title
Brunei,
when
Sultan
con-
firmed his
On
is
Rajah
who
title
of Rajah,
for
after
all
Rajah
Muda Hassim
but
it
was the people themselves who insisted on Sarawak being independent of the Sultan's and his
XX
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
their
emissaries' authority,
own
When
wak
in
1
James Brooke
84 1, the area of his country known as Sarawak proper comprised some seven thousand
might be as well
in
manner
which the
Datus or
chiefs that
James Brooke's accession to power, and who had been superseded and driven into rebellion by the Brunei nobles, the Sultan's emissaries, were recalled by James Brooke and chosen to help in carrying out When in the course of years these his Government. nobles died, their sons or members of the same aristobefore
cratic families (but
The
and
first
of these chiefs
who
helped to inaugurate
gallant
James Brooke's Government was a Malay gentleman called Datu Patinggi AH, who was a direct descendant of Rajah Jarum, the
establish
founder of
Sarawak,
who
led
his
people
against
and
people's
cause.
His son,
office
the
for
Datu
sixty
Bandar,
years,
Haji
Bua
Hassan, held
in
Kuching, over
He
and
man
intelligent
'
INTRODUCTION
Council,
sons,
xxi
and a true
and of mine.
it
Datu
Isa,
to
have dedicated
wish
this book,
was
his wife,
were
in
my power
to put into
charming,
sympathetic
personality,
and
make
it
life,
she set
conduct
amongst the
Malay
Bandar,
and the Datu Imaum, Haji sons of the late Datu Bandar and of Datu Isa. These four great Malay officials are members of the
Supreme Council and assistant judges of the Supreme The Datu Bandar, premier Datu and Court. Malay magistrate, is president of the Muhammadan Probate Divorce Court. The Datu Imaum is the
religious
head
of
the
Muhammadan community.
title,
signifying that
is
of
no longer
employed in that capacity, but ranks next to the Bandar as peaceful member of the Council,
whilst the
law.
Datu Hakim
is
adviser in
Muhammadan
Now
as to the principal
Malayan
officials in
Sarawak, we
to the year
At
Sarawak were
who, under the leadership of Brunei nobles, devastated The first Rajah, backed by his loyal adjacent lands.
xxil
SARAWAK AND
made
ITS
PEOPLE
against these
subjects,
many
expeditions
In 1849, Her Majesty's ship Dido, commanded by Sir Harry Keppel, came to his aid, when the combined forces of Malays and Dyaks, strengthened by the crew of Her Majesty's ship,
criminal tribes.
hordes,
and
an
end
was
Little
put
to
little
their
by
the
and strength of the white Rajah's government became acknowledged, even by the ci-devant miscreants themselves, and the inhabitants of the more northern rivers, realizing that after all honesty is the best policy, willingly laid down their arms and
clamoured to be enrolled
white chief
in the territory of the great
Being monarch of
tradition,
all
he surveyed, unfettered by
to the red-tapeism
of Europe, Rajah Brooke laid the foundations of one of the most original and, so far as justice goes, successful
Governments that perhaps has ever been known, its most salient feature being that from its very beginning the natives of the place were represented by their own people, and had the right to vote for and against any law that was made by their Government.
Brooke established
principal rivers,
stations
in
in
and
represent
Billian or iron
wood
forts
were
built
INTRODUCTION
xxiii
laws of the
in its
new Government and to inspire confidence supporters. The duty of these officials, called
to protect the people
The co-operation of local chiefs and was elicited to help in this good work, and headmen one cannot repeat too often that such native coadjutors have been the mainstay of the Rajah's Government, and so they must always remain. The present Rajah and his uncle have strictly adhered
disorder.
to
this
excellent
policy
of associating the
natives
began
his
law codes
in
laws
and customs as he found them. Instead of imposing European made laws upon the people, Muhammadan law and custom has been maintained whenever
is
it
affects
Muhammadanism.
No
favouritism
and any white man infringing the laws of the country would be treated in exactly the same way as would be the natives of the soil. In the Sarawak Gazette of 1872, the present Rajah at the "A beginning of his reign wrote these words Government such as that of Sarawak may start from things as we find them, putting its veto on what is dangerous or unjust, and supporting what
allowed,
:
is
fair
and equitable
in
the
and
letting
system and
legislation
xxiv
casion.
SARAWAK AND
When new
ITS
PEOPLE
provides for
wants are felt, it examines and them by measures rather made on the
;
is
The
made
little of,
and the
rulers of
government
majority
who
The Supreme
officials,
Council consists
of
four
Malay
de-
European
all its
liberations.
decisions.
at
Kuching,
members
and
of the
Supreme
native
all
Council,
the
European
districts,
some seventy
in
At
this
discussed
the
members
and are
told of the
meeting.
Each member
is
ment.
It
is
INTRODUCTION
as interested as
to give
I
xxv
am
more
work
is
made should
it
suffice
to say that
endeavours
to
promote
in
the people.
to
which
I
have
my
whom
it
many volumes
subject.
It
on the
The White Rajahs of Sarawak, by Messrs. Bampfylde and Baring-Gould, and The Pagan Tribes of Borneo, by those two well-known English scientists It must be reDr. Hose and Mr. McDougall. membered that Mr. Bampfylde and Dr. Hose
Government, and on that account their experience of the people and the country must be invaluable.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
H.H. The Rajah of Sarawak
The Author
From a
.......
.
.
Frontispiece
FACING PAGE
Painting by Mrs.
Alfred Sotheby
The
Europe
8
14
A Room
Datu
in
the Astana
.....
....
. . .
23
Isa
26
34
58
Sea-Dyaks in
War Dress
Sea-Dyak
Woman weaving
a Cotton Petticoat
Mail Steamers' Wharf and Trading Vessels at Anchor near Embankment in Kuching Bazaar
.....
62
Muda
of Sarawak
..... ......
102
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
xxvii
FACING PAGE
Author
Verandah
.......
Daiang Sahada's House at Kuching
.
.
158
in
164 166
174
200
254
.... ....
of Sick
260 282
288
Map
..... ........
Front Cover
MY
LIFE IN
SARAWAK
I
CHAPTER
WHEN
rulers,
I
remember Sarawak, its remoteness, the dreamy loveliness of its landscape, the
I
have
in their
first
ship back to
it,
never
to leave
again.
How
it
English
girl
people of
came into intimate contact with the I Sarawak is as follows: In 1868, on the
first
death of the
nephew and successor came to England and visited my mother, who was his cousin. On his return to Borneo in the early seventies, I accompanied him as
his wife.
Looking over the diaries I kept in those days, they throw little light upon the new surroundings in which I found myself. I had received the limited
education given to girls in that mid- Victorian period
I
;
had been taught music, dancing, and could speak two or three European languages but as regards the
;
important things in
of consequence to
I
life,
my
education.
2
seilles to
SARAWAK AND
Singapore, so that
ports
etc.
I
ITS
PEOPLE
at the
when we stayed
various
on
I
our
way out
ill
Penang,
in
Aden,
Ceylon,
interest
to take
any
remember that in Singapore we received invitations from the Governor and from the residents of the place to stay with them on our way to Sarawak but I felt ill, and the Rajah and I thought it However, we best to take up our quarters at an hotel. dined with the Governor and his wife. Sir Harry and Lady Ord, and I do not think I had ever met kinder people. The Chief Justice and his wife. Sir Benson and Lady Maxwell, were also charming to us, asking us to spend a day with them at their country house This we did, and it was all delightnear Singapore. ful and lovely, barring the fact that I met none of
them.
;
was
at
Singapore that
first
tasted tropical
fruits
mangoes, mangosteens, a
;
fruit called
the sour-
and sugar also many other kinds all of which, under the distempered state of my mind, owing to the
journey,
As
I
to the
delights of
I
must say
the
damp clammy
I
feel
and
in
such countries.
After a few days spent in Singapore,
we embarked
wooden gunboat
of 250 tons,
THE AUTHOR
FROM A PAINTING BY MRS. ALFKED SOTHEBY
SARAWAK AND
told
ITS
PEOPLE
me
me
had
my
first
and
only
rats,
a perpetual state of
like black beetles,
in colour.
terror at night.
Cockroaches are
much
At
and as
great
offensive to
human
beings.
alight
They
on
fly
or spring from
victims.
I
distances,
and
their
remember how they startled me by jumping on to my face, arms and hands, as I lay in my bunk trying
to get to sleep.
The
legs
rats
more or
less
were discon-
certingly friendly.
floor of
my
cabin,
my
comfort.
third
morning
after
leaving
I suddenly felt the ship moving in smooth waters. This encouraged me to absolutely crawl up on deck, and look around me at the scenery. The tide It was the most beautiful I had ever seen. was on the turn, and the morning mist was still
hanging about the watery forests on the banks arrd about the high mountains of the interior, and as it
swept across
th,e river it
brought with
it
that curious.
SARAWAK AND
indefinable
smell,
ITS
PEOPLE
and
half-
sweet,
sickly,
I
I
half-aromatic
making one think unaccountably of malaria. remember that I felt very cold, for everything I could see the touched was dripping with dew.
mountain of Santubong, a great green
thousand
covered
to
cliff
high
a height of about
its
summit with At the foot of the mountain was luxuriant forests. a great expanse of sand, over which enormous brown boulders were scattered, as though giants had been
three
feet,
disturbed at a
the sandy shore
game
of ninepins.
At
the back of
grew groves of Casuarina trees (the natives call them "talking trees," from the sound they make when a breeze stirs their lace-like
branches), looking as though the slightest puff might
blow them
built
away in clouds of dark green smoke. Brown huts, made of dried palm leaves and
all
on
brown naked
Women
folded
were
washing clothes on
clothed in one
long,
the river-banks.
clinging garment,
They were
and
saw as
in
a vision
the
me
tide
to distinguish their
was carrying us up
Here and
standing in
on our way up, we met Chinamen the stern of swift, small, narrow canoes,
SARAWAK AND
of fish for the
all
ITS
PEOPLE
Kuching market.
sizes,
We passed
its
boats of
sorts
and
with
women and
children.
These
wisre roofed in to
and were
the
usually propelled
by old men
sitting
in
bows and
the folds of turbans to be seen, these showing that the wearers had been to Mecca.
My
attention
I
was
saw, sitting
in
amidships, an old
scarf.
woman huddled up
perfectly
a cotton
tiny
boy,
naked,
was bravely
was on
this
morning
also,
that
made
the
Like
first
thought the
but whether
looked
alike.
elicited
that
aged eighteen or
them
at
all.
They
all
had the same almost bridgeless thick lips, dark restless eyes, and
tried to
make up
to
them
in
a feeble
to
way
looked
at
and
fro,
but they
SARAWAK AND
my
friendly
ITS
PEOPLE
attention to
my
cane
I
chair.
They were
;
things
was told that they were as efficient as any ordinary European crew. The Rajah was accompanied on the occasion by one of his officers who had come to meet us at
Singapore.
As we
to
thought they
across.
silent pair
wanted
know about
no
I
the
asked be
to
questions,
but
satisfactory
answer
could
obtained,
1
and
to understand that
I
had
wanted
in
know about
and which at high tide stand "knee-deep I wanted to know about those great flood."
the river-banks, and from which
forests
in
most
I
useful
wanted
know
saw great things like logs of wood lying on the mud, and when these moved, and went with a sickening flop into the
I
Then
water,
first
had
crocodiles of faces
my
of
acquaintance.
and mobile
between
monkeys peering
overhanging
from
water
the
branches
the
SARAWAK AND
grimacing like angry old
their solitude,
ITS
PEOPLE
men
and
to
my
monkeys they were, the usual indifferent answer was given. I remember trying to make friends with the
English
eliciting
officer
my
should have
make my own
and
Although here and there we met a few boats coming up the river, some of the reaches were deserted and silent as the grave. I was exceedingly lonely, and felt as though I had fallen into a phantom land, in the midst of a lost and silent world. But even in such out-of-the-way places pfeople have to be fed, and I remember my first meal in Sarawak, brought to me by the Chinese steward. There were captain's biscuits, lumps of tinned butter slipping about the plate like oil, one boiled egg which had seen its best days, and the cup of Chinese tea, innocent of milk, which the Rajah and his friend seemed to enjoy, but which I thought extremely
nasty.
The
quiet, matter-of-fact
way
in
which they
in time look
but
I,
too,
might
trifles.
in silence for
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
I
the
Rajah on
last
his
England
and
rounding the
I
reach
hill
also
saw the
was flying the Sarawak flag. On the opposite bank to where the Fort was situated stood a bungalow, rather a homely looking house, with gables and green-and-white blinds, the sight of which comforted me. I was told that this was the house of the agent of the Borneo Company, Ltd. This gives me an
opportunity of acknowledging, at the outset of
my
book, the
loyal,
civilizing
Sarawak and
sight,
its
people.
we steamed on
farther on, the
little
same
saw
wooden
shingles, built
on brick
pillars
On
many
officials,
come
to
chiefs,
was
ft.
Pi
<
<!
H < J
>
2 Pi <
ffi
<!
vi
SARAWAK AND
Rajah's Government.
in great folds
ITS
PEOPLE
They wore
turbans twisted
round
Their
feet
were shod
with sandals, and they carried long staves tipped with great golden knobs.
Then
saw Chinamen,
all
shaped eyes,
fat,
comfortable-looking faces,
smiles,
Dyak
chiefs of neighbouring
arms,
with beads and bangles on their legs and and gaily coloured waistcloths of red and
I saw about eight or ten and white. Europeans in white uniforms and helmets, and two ladies, also dressed in white, the only European
yellow
As
Dyaks
paddles
black,
in
white
their
painted
the
and red
came
I
us on shore.
made
by
to the landing-stage.
came forward and shook hands with It took about Rajah, who presented them to me. to fifteen minutes to shake hands with them all.
the people
^
in 1851.
lo
SARAWAK AND
Then a
ITS
PEOPLE
I
was
not prepared.
taller
than
the
a jacket
ear,
came
forward with
large
yellow
which he opened
I
:
learned, he occupied
Bearer to
At
IT back
I
to
ITS home
with the principal European and the other people who had met us came after us, up the path, and on to the verandah of the Astana. There we seated ourselves on cane
followed
officer
present,
chairs
the
Rajah and
For some
:
minutes we
all
expression,
?).
:
(Rajah well
more
silence
jumped up and
SARAWAK AND
one took the
hint,
ITS
PEOPLE
ii
Every
down
the steps
convey them
the
"
Rajah
standing
by me.
said.
turned
"
to
him.
Where
are the
he
answered.
in the place
came
meet you,"
the chiefs' wives and the Malay women, why have they not come to meet me?" "Malay women," replied the Rajah, "never accompany the men on public occasions. It is not " But," I said, " you are their Rajah. their custom." What is the use of my coming here if I am not to see
place,
mean
the
women
of the
the
women
of the place.''"
with a
smile, "
we
shall see
things
may be
different
by and by."
In the evening the
fortable boat for a turn
Rajah took
me
in his
comthey
on the
;
river.
Three Malay
as
boat-boys
sent
us
along
their
paddles
Malay portion of the town with its brown houses made of palm leaves, their roofs and walls so frail that " you might anywhere break Moving westwards them open with your finger "
floated past the
!
We
we
bars
wooded
sides
and
ravines
12
SARAWAK AND
or
ITS
PEOPLE
brilliant
passing
clouds.
The
sunset behind
in
Kuching was Matang^on that first evening I spent a memorable one. The dark purple mass seemed
palpitating
with
mystery, standing
out
as
it
did
against a
yellow.
background of crimson
and
rose
and
CHAPTER
II
SARAWAK
rivers of
is
a land of mountains, of
trees,
and of water.
your way to
The most
important
Sarawak flow into this bay. At its southern end stands Tanjong Datu, rising to a height of 700 feet and across sixty miles of sea in a northerly direction, almost opposite to this green cliff, is Tanjong Sirik, from whence the low and sandy coast runs
;
in
an almost straight
Harbour-
less
and unprotected,
by the surf
end of March.
which blows
weather
for prevails,
fairer
making easier communication mouths and the rest of the world. If you approach Sarawak in the early morning, you can see from the deck of a steamer, cobalt blue
between these
river
wooded
later in
first
and return by
daily
showers
the afternoon.
rains,
Cascades born
tear
down
13
their
wooded
ravines,
SARAWAK AND
horizon, looking as though
ITS
it
PEOPLE
lifted
15
were
high up
in
the
air,
line of
sea,
appeared a space of
light as
The
Bay
rivers
Lupar, Saribas,
of Sarawak,
The
rivers
(from
is
and Baram, are situated in the more northern portion of the territory. Owing to
the perpetual strife between land and water, these
rivers
have bars
is
the
Baram
of the country.
their settlements
on
or near the coast, within reach of the tide. are expert fishermen, and excel
in
Malays
boat building.
They
are
Muhammadans, and
and are the sago workers of the country. Though mosdy Muhammadans, they have a curious superstitious
Land Dyaks
dwell
south of Kuching
Batang Lupar, Saribas, Sea Dyaks frequent Kalaka, and the Rejang Rivers Kayans live more inland, and their tribes are supposed to have settle;
ments right across from west to east of the northern nor must we forget the Chinese portion of Borneo
;
immigrants
who have
settlements
all
SARAWAK AND
and who invade
it
ITS
PEOPLE
numbers with
it
pality,
in increasing
filled
mankind and flinging it out haphazard by handfuls, some by the sea, and some by the inland rivers and forests, it might give an idea of the manner in which the population of Sarawak is scattered over the
country.
The
different
tribes
;
hold
themselves
entirely aloof
with
Dyaks
residing in
Malay settlements, or
versa, nor
alien race.
must be remembered that there are very few roads in Sarawak, and as yet no railways for it can well be understood that road-making or laying
It
;
down
is
by marshes,
hills,
Com-
merce and
trade,
Borneo
its
is
known
an easy passage down the numberless canals and rivers which nature has provided through this watery land. Indeed,
duce of
its
jungles and
forests find
it
seems
to
me
that
there
are three
:
things one
these being
of water
is
mounheard
and water.
;
The sound
everywhere
SARAWAK AND
it
ITS
PEOPLE
tide,
17
as
is
heard by day
and night daily showers drip on to one's habitation, and the noise of paddles for the people use the river as Europeans use their streets is never lacking.
Even
the
first
in their
little
morning and evening cries. For instance, monkeys, called wah-wahs, give vent, at the
I
whenever
trees in
It
me
an
important
It is
there
mostly hidden
purple
The
golden
blossoms
of
the
lagerstremia,
the
yellow,
more inland
ing
in the
parasites
hidden
branches of forest
delicate,
everything
to
lovely,
be
be made.
One
in
These
unknown blossoms
SARAWAK AND
rare
ITS
PEOPLE
These
and exquisite
visitations
always reminded
me
Now
to
my mind
the people of
Sarawak match
and beautiful surroundings. They love sweet scents and flowers, and, above all, they love the
their strange
fact,
they live
Every man, woman, and child swims about the streams near their homes in the same way as we take our walks in our gardens. Men and women alike manage boats with wonderful skill, and women are often seen alone in canoes,
paddling themselves in search of
to be found
fruits or
vegetables
on the banks of streams sometimes a If you happen to great distance from their village. throw in your lot with these people, you insensibly
become,
in the course of years, as
that,
as they are, so
like
perpetually
any exertion have recourse to a bath, much as they plunge into the
bathing,
river to cool themselves.
and
Moreover, they are perpetually washing their clothesrl have often thought
I
CHAPTER
III
Rajah and I had only been a few weeks Kuching when he had to leave me and go on an expedition to the interior, and I was left alone in the Astana with a maid whom I had brought from England. She was an ordinary sort of woman, with no capacity for enjoying anything that was not European, She left me soon after, for, as
in
THE
With
no one
time,
Astana with
whom
could speak,
as
There was, however, the Rajah's butler, a Sarawak Malay, who had been with At the Rajah's the first Rajah Brooke for some years. death, my husband took this man into his service.
I
did not
know Malay.
He
was
called Talip (a
name
signifying light).
I
Talip
became
He
was good-looking,
taller
than most
and an abundant crop of hair forming a short curly fringe under his head-handkerchief, which he folded round his head with consummate skill. He was a bit
of a dandy, and very neat in appearance.
He
wore
a white jacket, under which appeared the folds of his yellow-and black sarong, white trousers, and he walked
about with bare
feet.
He
all
20
classes in
SARAWAK AND
Kuching, for his
ITS
PEOPLE
years in the
first
many
I
gol^
a great deal of
make
wonderful.
One day I said to him, " I want to see the Malay women of Kuching. Ask them to come here."
I
bring
my two
wives
"
and
chiefs'
wives and
After
I
daughters might be
and
settled that
should
hold a reception
my
first
reception in
Sarawak
and
my
women
now began to be interesting, for Talip and I had a great many preparations to make and plans The dining-room of the Astana was to talk over.
life
My
and could accommodate about two hundred and I kept impressing on Talip that none of fifty guests. the ministers' and chiefs' lady relations should be forgotten, as it would never do to create jealousy on
large,
this
I
my
first
introduction to the
women
of the country.
the
wives,
"
Datu Temanggong, and the other chiefs sons, daughters, and grandchildren
;
all
had
galore.
They must all be invited," I said " for them and make friends with them."
initiated
by Talip
manner of giving
parties in Malayland.
SARAWAK AND
First of
all,
ITS
PEOPLE
21
be. considered.
cannot
remember the bewildering quantity of cocoa-nuts and of various other ingredients he deemed necessary for making Malay cakes. These he judiciously parcelled out to the houses of the people I was going to invite, so that they could make the cakes with which I was to present them when they came to call. Talip also borrowed from them cups, saucers, plates, and many
other things wanted for such an important occasion.
Some days
sitting-room
my
landing-plade and
I
to our door,
saw a
number of little boys staggering under the weight of numerous round, red lacquer boxes. These were very large, and I sent for Talip and asked him what they
were.
He
informed
me
and
the
same way
as
we
we
should
on the
floor
chiefs' wives,
also
my guests.^ A
fortnight
was occupied in the preparations, and at last the day came to which I had been looking forward so
1 There is no greater pleasure one can give Malays than that of borrowing their things. Women, however, ungrudgingly lend their golden ornaments to each other, and the same may be said of their
22
SARAWAK AND
I
ITS
PEOPLE
Malay
table
much,
ing,
ladies
very
at
much
prettier
than the
in
arrangements
our
dinner-parties
England.
sides of
Great
the
strips of
down both
room with
cross pieces at
each end.
The
red
at equal distances
on these
strips,
fruits
The
all
made
beautiful
notes of colour
The
tea-party
I
was supposed
to begin at
so accordingly,
dressed myself in
my
and
my
:
guests.
going on outside
afternoon
my
the rustle of
and down the verandah, and, becoming curious, I looked over the partitions and saw women in silken But Talip was on guard, draperies flitting about. time I came out, or even looked over the and every
partitions,
he said to
me,
"You must
at
out,
not
However,
with
4 o'clock
flaming
show I was
sword
and
like
determined to go
the of
when Talip
back.
to
again,
at
angel
the
the
gate
Paradise,
that
I
waved me
ought not
He
made me understand
show my-
self before 5.30 on account of Malay etiquette, and went on to explain that the Rajah's subjects should
SARAWAK AND
await
ITS
PEOPLE
23
my
pleasure.
my
impatience
he would
allow
!
me
to
enter
the
dining-hall
at half-past five
I
my
I
guests,
felt
Malay
etiquette.
a
I
little
did not
know a word
punctually,
of Malay, so
made my entrance
was
me
as
The rows
floor
of
women
and young
on the
reminded
me
noticed what
most of these
eyes
women
long
had, of
Their
dark
and
eyelashes,
,
were to
me
quite entrancing.
As
came
like
into the
room, Talip told them to get up, and the sound of their
rustling silks, all
moving
together,
was
a gentle
forest.
and Datu Siti, came forward one on each side of me, and, each placing one hand under my elbows and the other under my finger-tips, led me to the seat preIsa
chiefs,
Datu Malay
pared for
me
24
of women.
high, so
I
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
was uncomfortably could not have two
"
My
pile of cushions
I
:
Rajah Ranee must have three cushions more than the chiefs' wives." Therefore, once again I gave
way
of
lukewarm
coffee,
made sweet
It
taste of
my
guests.
as the Malays of
Sarawak are unaccustomed to the use of that liquid.^ It took some time to help us all, but when each guest's cup was full, Talip stood in " Makan the middle of the room and shouted out Minum la. la. Jangan malu!" (Eat.
: . . .
!
Drink.
Don't be ashamed).
Talip told
me
to say
something to
my guests, and
have sent
I
that
he would translate
Daiangs,
my
" Datus,
for
my
I
friends,"
said, "
you
have
I
because
live here
feel lonely
without you.
friends with
have come to
all.
I
and
to
make
you
know we shall love one another, and I feel sure if women are friends to one another they can never feel
lonely in any country."
at great length,
Talip translated
my
speech
and when he had finished, Datu Isa, Datu Bandar the chief minister, bent the forward, her eyes cast down, her hands palm downwife
of
confided in
me
that they
it,
SARAWAK AND
wards on her knees, and
are our father, our
ITS
PEOPLE
25
replied,
mother, and
our grandmother.
We
know
nothing, so
the Rajah
will
is
we
When
here,
I
away, as
am
the oldest
is
woman
There
must not do
the
Rajah Ranee, you must not do that, are sad you must come to me, and
lighten your heart."
I
help to
smiled in response.
But
all
the
women
kept that
are shy
when they
I
thought
account.
would
on
my own
meant to inquire of Datu Isa how many sons she had. This remark thawed the ice, for a ripple of laughter went over the room. Instead of saying " sons " I had used the words " baby boys " the old lady being After that, we seventy, no explanation is required became very friendly. I consulted Marsden for the rest of the afternoon, and got on beautifully with my
guests.
It is strange,
remember
that
party
that
it
might
From
eventful
day
my
home-sickness
completely
vanished, for
I felt I
had found
my
friends.
CHAPTER
IV
THEN
began a very agreeable time, such as usually comes with a new and interesting I think the Malay women as well friendship.
and I encouraged the frequent morning visits that one or another of the chieftains' lady relations paid to
me.
I
somehow managed
to
although
them.
my Malay must
I
stand what
expression
flit
across their
or smile, or
Little
by little matters mended, and in a few weeks I became more fluent. That mighty question of "chiffons," which is
usually thought to belong only to
European women-
kind,
seemed
to
in the
minds of
the care of
in
me
me
DATU
ISA
SARAWAK AND
"
ITS
PEOPLE
27
You
at
once
Lengthy discussions then took place as to what colours I should choose, and where the things should be made. Finally, the matter resolved itself
and insisting on providing me with the whole dress, and I must say it was a beautiful one. The garment called "kain
into the ladies joining together,
Malay
tape
woman's skirt) consists of a narrow sheath this was folded and tucked under my armpits, and made to cover my feet. It was woven in red-and-gold brocade. My jacket was of dark blue satin, and had gold rosettes sewn over The collar of the jacket was edged with plaques it.
(the
for a
;
"
Malay name
All
down
jacket,
gauzy scarf
my
was flung over the left shoulder ready to cover my head and face when wearing the dress in my walks According to Datu Isa, my right eye alone abroad. should peep forth from the golden wrap on such
occasions.
Datu
Isa
to say as to
"You
are
my
child.
have thought a good deal as to whether, being a married woman, you ought to wear golden ornaments, because it is the custom in
Rajah Ranee," she
said,
I
"and
28
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
Malay dress should be as splendid as all agree that it will suit you well."
in this opinion.
I
and we
of
its
beauty, but
if
tall
English-
woman
sun.
They are all very small indeed, and the noiseless way they move about lends additional beauty to the
European woman, accustomed as she is to freedom, exercise, and somewhat abrupt movements, can possibly imitate with any degree of success the way in which they glide about and manipulate their silken and gauzy draperies. It is interesting, to know the ideas Malay women entertain about the wearing of these clothes. I was somewhat embarrassed with the length of my sarong, ordered by Datu Isa, and arranged by her so that it " Never should fall in folds draggling on the ground. mind, Rajah Ranee," she would say, "you will get accustomed to it by and by, and you must remember " But that the Rajah's wife never shows her feet." " I said to Datu Isa. " Because," she answered, why ?
dress.
is never supposed to walk about. She must have servants and subjects at her call every moment Now, if you wear that dress properly, you of the day. would not fasten it in very securely anywhere, but you
No
" she
would
sit
slightest
on cushions almost motionless, because movement your clothes would fall off.
at the
The
SARAWAK AND
tapes."
ITS
PEOPLE
29
This was
that
all
very well
Isa
moreover,
it
must be
remembered
Datu
was
strictly conservative.
Her
in
Sarawak were as
were those of
aristocratic
Isa's
But Datu
is
who
a
about
my
own
to
age, reassured
I
me when
I felt
little
anxious as
whether
could play
my
was
not
always striving to
put
me
in.
"We
Isa
;
understand,
Rajah
say.
"You must
she
is
we
kind
her.
Little
if
by you
you
to
walk a
But talking of these sarongs and the wonderful cloths manufactured by the women of Sarawak, it
always surprises
that
me when
Sarawak was such an uncivilized country when the first Rajah went there, and that its people were sunk in a state of barbarism, how it was possible that the womenkind of the Malay population living in the place evolved the marvellous embroideries and brocades l;hat nearly all the women of Sarawak are
capable of weaving.
The
patterns on
similar, for
Sarawak women
30
stuff,
SARAWAK AND
powdered
all
ITS
PEOPLE
silk
over
its
ground of red
is
with
divided by a
in
gold thread
Vandyck-shaped
lines,
reminding one of
is
design
is
all
over Malaya.
all
Nor
matter.
time,
the
making
of these cloths at
an easy
the
To
help to amuse
me and
to while
away
Datu Isa and her maidens brought to the Astana a great loom prepared with golden and silk threads, The loom to teach me how to weave these brocades. was so large that one could sit inside it. A sort of pad made of wood supported one's back and acted as
a lever with planks at one's feet to keep the thread
taut.
A shuttle
in
effort
back and
I
feet
must confess
never achieved
interested
it
many inches of these cloths, although me much to learn the Malay methods of
friend,
weaving them.
Datu Isa sometimes brought with her a whom I got to know well. This lady was a
that
self.
is
Seripa,
to say,
over the
the
Archipelago.
how
many
their
met
Sherif
in
Sarawak traced
Arabic
and Sheripa.
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
31
countrymen and women accepted their great position, it must have been unassailable, and I never attempted
to solve the mystery.
also
may
may
marry
whom
they please.
Datu
and
As
woman, Datu
come sq work for me and to the Astana to to teach me her craft. Most Malay women, as I have said before, are able to embroider, and their methods My first lesson was conducted greatly interested me. in this fashion. The Seripa was seated in the middle of the floor of my sitting-room, and the lady Datus, their friends, and I, were seated round her to watch
Isa suggested that she should
the proceedings.
foolscap,
The
Seripa asked
for
pieces
of
which she cut into broad bands of about nine or ten inches wide and about a yard and a half in length. She then folded them into about five layers,
and with a sharp penknife began punching out the design through the top layer. The penknife went in
and
rounding
it.
circles there,
In
fact,
!
the
had
ments of
her
my
guests.
sirih box,
32
SARAWAK AND
me
it
ITS
PEOPLE
She took a
lime,
delicacy for
store.
little
leaf
of betel-vine, smeared
with a
shell-lime, stuck
wrapped
and presented it to me. Bagus sekali " (very nice), she said, and watched the effect on me as I began munching at this Malay
leaf
into
bundle,
delicacy.
I I
it,
but did
my
we
best to appear
as though
When
sat
chewing
in
a silence only
"
She is working in earnest," said Datu Isa. We all nodded assent, whilst giving vent to little grunts of approval. The punching went on, and the little scraps of paper lay like snow around the Seripa, who suddenly gave a louder sigh than usual and a more lengthy invocation to Allah, and shaking the pattern free from the cuttings of paper, we saw a delicate and flowing pattern of conventional leaves, of birds and of fishes, rustling itself free from her fingers This improvised work over, she laid to the floor.
Allah. layers of foolscap together, laid
one over the other, stuck them her prepared pattern on the top, and the
When the
over green
was
laid
on a long, wooden frame, about a yard We had chosen green, as it is the colour of
the Prophet.
The
and the Seripa worked gold thread backwards and forwards over
the
satin,
here and
there on
SARAWAK AND
satin
ITS
PEOPLE
33
recalling
to
I
my mind
knew
teenth century.
CHAPTER
THE
Dyak
into the
he had to
parts of his
remote
In
Sarawak, epidemics of
the plague has
of late years
One
in
70 miles
size,
has
On
in
height, Dyaks,
who
and to
take
feel
skirmishes
(to
on
their
own
retire
account,
build
houses
temporarily for
lofty peaks,,
soar.
;
to
and These
monkeys their activity and when one of these tribes ensconces wonderful,
SEA DYAKS IN
WAR DRESS
SARAWAK AND
itself
ITS
PEOPLE
it
35
is
in
such
inaccessible
it
places
into
difficult
to
dislodge
and coerce
moving
to
lower
and more civilized portions of the territory. At the time of which I am writing, one of these tribes had
been
particularly^ tiresome.
Dyak
chief,
named
head of
managed
the
to build a fleet of
At
head of
his fleet,
he
in-
Mr.
officers
my
first
fleet
of boats,
manned by
some three thousand men, and attacked Mr. Skelton's Fort just before daybreak. It was nearly taken by surprise, for Dyaks have a way of muffling the sound of their paddles, and although the Fort was built about twenty yards from the river, and the fleet came within earshot of it, no sound was heard by the sentries, notwithstanding that they were on the look out for any
'
or the
His now. de guerre^ by which he was usually known, was Mua-ari, Face of Day.
36
SARAWAK AND
"
ITS
"
PEOPLE
his
emergency.
Face of Day
and
men
landed,
yells
and threw
bamboo
all built
square
made
is
of planks of iron-wood,
The
stockade
roof, to
made
an
overhanging
from the
made detachable
made of wooden wooden walls. The shingles are to prevent fire when the enemy
roof.
These Sikhs were ci-devant Indian Sepoys, who had been exiled to Sarawak as punishment for the share they had These men, although taken in the Indian Mutiny. rebels, were amongst the lesser offenders in the Mutiny, and subsequently proved themselves to be Sarawak Government. valuable servants to the
They were
tall,
fierce,
magnificent-looking beings,
great
very
turbans
twisted
heads,
tended, and
ends.
moustaches with
There were
two or
chiefs and a recently joined English Low, son of Sir Hugh Low, who was then cadet, Mr. Colonial /Secretary in Labuan. A few poisoned
three
Dyak
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
37
missiles.
The
and
party
in
the
made a brave
resistance,
in a short
time
their
flying to
walls, Lin-
amongst the slain. The account which Mr. Skelton gave me when saw him afterwards of the manner in which the
during the skirmish
did nothing but peer
insults
very
the
most of whom they knew They made unpleasant remarks about enemy's mothers, and inquired whether the men
belonged to the female sex, as their
feeble, etc.
It
themselves
efforts
terrific,
were so
and
was
this
had called the Rajah away from Kuching a few days after my arrival in Sarawak. He gathered round
him
other
some
seven
thousand
Dyaks belonging
to
friendly tribes,
and with Mr. Skelton and one or two English officers led an expedition up the
into the interior of the
Rejang River
country,
He
and deemed it
in
some weeks
order
and order
38
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
were hiding
in the
;
his people
and he and
all
his tribe
became outcasts
in the land.
The
confess
of their ways,
peace,
vanquished,
make
on the main
river
under
The
Rajah's policy on
:
many
similar occasions
when
he had
succeeded
in
head-hunting
ambitions of these
tribes, the thing theji to be done was to turn these people into decent subjects by making them understand that the benefits to be derived from trade and commerce were more satisfactory to their well-being than their methods of murdering and cutting off the heads of their often
harmless neighbours.
About a month or
the
six
Rajah's
departure
from
Rajah, telling
three days.
me
that he
would be back
to
in
He
wanted
me
return with
two or him to
He
it
because he thought
would
interest
me
to
see
him and
make
his
acquaintance.
I
I
well
return.
was
interested in hearing
the
details
of the
SARAWAK AND
expedition, whilst
I
ITS
PEOPLE
tell
39
had much
I
to
him about
I
my
new women
course of
friends.
my my
story, at
Malay expressions
let fall
At
and
must say
talked a
good deal I was rewarded by his saying, "Why, " real Malay That evening, after dinner, he sent for Apai Minggat, the chief who had accompanied him to
!
Kuching.
this
We
were
sitting in the
dining-room when
individual
entered,
middle-aged Sea
Dyak
by
chieftain,
who had
his side
for
and saved his life on more than one occasion, he was a famous warrior, with a considerable
He
seemed
to
be tread-
body
bent.
his head,
he had retained,
courtesy, in
Sea Dyaks,
in
spirit of
true
case
his
enemy, when
this lock
them
cloth,
to carry his
head by.
plertd
and a dirty
He
to hear
a war
yell,
and
asked the
to give vent to
of gratification heard
Dyaks without
loss to themselves.
A curious
40
SARAWAK AND
his
ITS
It
PEOPLE
went higher and
lips.
and then
three
it
died
down
into
this
Two
or
times
he repeated
It
performance,
which
had imagined
that
all
it
must
be,
when heard
victory
it
in a chorus of
yelling at once, as he
after
of
successful skirmishes
terrifying
pirates,
was a most
and
Mr.
got
this over,
up
his
custom
demands, and
claret
left
the
;
Rajah
and
friend at their
and cigars
but, not
wishing
chief
to sit by myself, I made signs to the and took him with me into the drawing-room. There I sat in one of the arm-chairs, with the old Dyak at my feet. He removed his headhandkerchief, rubbed his head, and gave vent to
he was
ill.
"He
say
he bad head
gin." I was rather shocked and thought he was maligning the old man. When Talip had left the room, happening to have a scent bottle in my hand filled
he wants
with eau-de-Cologne,
poured some on
my
fingers
and rubbed
on poor Minggat's head. This he seemed to enjoy, and made signs to me as though he
it
SARAWAK AND
found
to
it
ITS
PEOPLE
I
41
soothing.
to
The moment
again, so
left off,
he signed
his
it
me
go on
on
I I
went rubbing
remember
that
I
oil.
Busily engaged as
was,
Skelton
sorry
the
room.
am
at all pleased at
chief,
my
and forthwith
"
bad head.
Why should
The
Rajah,
not rub
it
with eau-de-Cologne?"
them them
but
in this
in
way,
how
me
to
keep
of
order?"
told
he
me
a
such
tokens
sympathy from
tactful
Rajah's
way
CHAPTER
VI
THE
me.
I I
next day
for Sibu.
different
from
my
voyage
to
Kuching two
now
I
interested
across.
came
wanted to
we
passed.
My
Malay was not brilliant even then, but still I could manage to make myself understood. We steamed past the Santubong Mountain, out to sea, and,
of course, the
down
went by
and took
laid
my
usual position on
floor,
such occasions
a mattress
on the
a bucket
champagne to ward off the sea-sickness. The heat was terrific. For five hours, until we got to the other side of the mouth of the Rejang, I was helpless, and the natives and
side,
my
and a
bottle of
my
it
mind.
Sea-sickness
discomfort
much laughed
it.
at,
but
know
came
of no
to
that equals
However,
an end, and
soon put
was surprised
to see
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
43
Mr. Harry
He
gave
his
up
his
rooms
I it
to us,
hospitality.
well
remember the
first
morning of
my
was all so different from the way things were managed on board the Heartsease. My breakfast tray was brought in by my Malay maid, who had accompanied me from Kuching. Mr. Skelton had arranged the tray himself the captain's biscuits were there, but the tea was delicious somehow he had managed to get some cows, for there was milk. The boiled ^^^ was new laid, and even the tinned butter was washed and pretended to be fresh. Then, in the middle of the tray, was a little bunch of flowers from his garden, jasmine, plumbago, and gardenia, tied in a ravishing effect of blue and white. I stayed in the Fort about six weeks, and
stay
: : ;
me
with
my
But what interested me more than anyThere was a Bazaar thing were our evening walks. where the Chinese had, even in those days, a considerable settlement. As the sun set and the air
became
sent
for
cooler,
the Rajah,
set
Skelton had
to
Sikhs
who
were
guard us
We
would
sally forth
in the
middle
some bad
at the turn
44
affairs
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
certain
had taken, and Mr. Skelton was not very that in the long grass near by there might
who,
in
fit
of insanity,
lives.
On
the
other
hand,
the
idea.
One
felt
oneself important
I
being guarded by
men
must say
did not
probably, to
my
Two
we went up
the
some of the tribes, for, as I have said before, the Rejang is a long river, with villages Another dotted here and there along its banks. surprise was in store for me when I went on board, I found that wire-netting had been stretched fore and aft the vessel, so as to secure it from any attack. When we were inside, and the wire-netting securely fastened all round us, we must have looked like
river to visit
:
animals
in
a cage
We
Our speed
In a very short
lift,
was
bitterly cold,
my
shoulders, over
I
my
was
for the
Cocoa-nut
SARAWAK AND
for the water here
ITS
PEOPLE
4$
was brackish, but there were no Near the Fort the river is about twelve hundred yards wide. There were signs
other signs of cultivation.
of jungle everywhere, the
rice lands,
ancient
trees,
sites
of
cleared
grass covering
forests
There were no
In
on
the
these
banks.
were
Dyaks' farm
grounds,
people
had long since removed up the river to plant their paddy in its tributary streams. Farther up, the banana and sago plants were replaced by the shrub called rengas, resembling, in the distance, a hedge of clipped holly but on closer examination, although its leaves are dark and shiny, they are more like laurels in shape with young shoots of brilliant red. The wood of this shrub is valuable, and is used a good deal for making furniture by the carpenters in the Straits. It has peculiar and disagreeable effects on
;
certain
persons.
Some
its
natives
can
lop
off
its
branches without
whilst others,
swollen,
if
made uncomfortable
even
if
ways
its
for hours,
branches.
its illit
On
effects
young
which make an excellent dish when boiled as a vegetable. After a time we could see nothing but low, green hills on the edge of the water,
46
SARAWAK AND
to the sea.
ITS
PEOPLE
when
and we saw here and there bright vermilion patches about the green grass near the water. These
were made by clerodendron blossoms, a flower of predilection amongst the Sea Dyaks. They have a
kind of reverence regarding
it
:
in
battle
spiky
They
plant
its
it
No one is
for
in
any way,
is
saw the flowers they were growing amongst the lalang grass, and looked like great coral chandeliers set in a background of malachite. They are called by the Dyaks " Pemula Sumpah." Then, we passed several tributary streams famous in Sarawak history for the many expeditions the Rajah and his officers have led there, for this district was formally the haunt of the most redoubtable head-hunters. Like all the rivers of Borneo the
feasts.
I
When
first
Rejang forms a succession of cataracts near its source, and behind these it was easy for the Dyaks to imagine
themselves safe to indulge in their favourite pastime of head-hunting. We had been stean>ing for hours,
SARAWAK AND
when
late in the afternoon
ITS
PEOPLE
47
the
we passed Kanowit on
It
left-hand
bank of the
officers,
river.
was
at this spot, in
Fox and
Steele,
two of the
first
white
Rajah's
disaffection of a
Sarawak
at
hills
history.
This
Singapore.
shelving
hills
is
We
into
man ended his days in exile now came to a series of little The formation of the water.
peculiar
:
these
in
somewhat
all
outline and,
wooded
forest
with
jungle
at
trees
their
line
summit,
would
all
seem
as
though a straight
tops,
might be drawn
its
along their
each
hill
highest point.
They
of
rise to
a height of 750
brushwood growing on the hills had been of recent date, and groves of wild bananas
grew here and there. I think the long fronds of the banana plant are amongst the loveliest growing things
one can
position,
see.
When
the
plants
find
a sheltered
most wonderful
colours,
and sapphires had been melted together and poured over them moreover, a certain bloom rests on them, like that seen on grapes and
as though emeralds
;
plums.
light in
which the plants are growing, for I have noticed the same bloom spread over ferns growing It might in dells and shady nooks of virgin forests.
48
SARAWAK AND
wounds
ITS
PEOPLE
and purity possessing healing properties absent from ordinary poultices. These wild bananas thrive luxuriantly on recently abandoned paddy lands, until masses
of other weeds
The
plant
possesses an excellent
green, small,
fruit
being bright
and
hard.
The
farms
is
Here and
partially
turned
to
tinder,
their
charred
trunks
Sometimes they become draped with I remember one such charred parasites and creepers. skeleton, over whose shrivelled remains the bright
yellow blossoms of the allamanda flung a curtain of
As we proceeded up the river, I remember noticing men in boats fishing inside little creeks, who, I was
told,
These little creeks were barred across from bank to bank with
bamboo
the main
over Borneo.
This root
is
pounded with
into the river
stupefied,
at low tide,
rise
when
the fishes
to
the
surface,
so
and no
difficulty in netting or
spearing them.
These people
SARAWAK AND
were drawing up nets
as
is
ITS
PEOPLE
we
49
full
of fish as
passed, but,
their wont,
when apparently
suddenly appeared
with the Rajah.
of
from
full
out
of
nowhere
boat
of
a few words
Skelton (both
could dis-
whom knew
district),
When
ladder
friends, the
let
The
chieftains'
followers re-
Before
we
along a
warriors.
little
flotilla
of
canoes
filled
with
dusky
where
was our
destination,
built
hill
on the top of a
for
river,
hill.
We
anchored
beneath the
Our journey up
ten hours
sufficed to float us
Then
for
another
fortnight
4
bunches of flowers,
so
SARAWAK AND
at sunset
ITS
PEOPLE
when
he
On
this occasion
left
me
Mr. Skelton
and Mr.
Low
to look after
me
in the Fort.
fired
got out of
my
warn
to
me
that
in
semi-darkness preceding
seemed
river.
be two long
Dyak
boats floating
to
down
the
They had
not answered
fresh'
the challenge
My
room had
be given up to two
to
in the sitting-room.
was an exciting time, for we all thought that at any moment we should hear the yell of the Dyaks rushing up to attack us. I recollect so well Mr. Skelton, fussy and excited, fearing I should be but I was really rather enjoying all frightened
:
this
it
strange that
we
I
should be
know
how
to
manage a musket,
that
should
sit
behind the
SARAWAK AND
cottage piano
as
it
I
ITS
PEOPLE
51
me
way
from Kuching,
into the Fort.
would serve
my
We
were
all
on the look
Daybreak
nothing happened.
Every five minutes, Mr. some ham which he had just procured from England, and some sodawater, evidently thinking that these would have a soothing effect on my nerves We waited and waited, and at last I thought I might just as well Then a most delightful incident go back to bed. occurred. Our Chinese cook, whom we had brought from Kuching, anxious to show his zeal and valour,
was rather disappointed.
Skelton invited
me
to partake of
my
door with
Skelton
I
large
carving knife.
so, and,
Of
course
Mr.
allowed him to do
into
I
thus guarded,
sleep.
turned
my mosquito net
When
awakened the sun was shining, and all fear of the It is a well-known thing that attack had passed. Dyaks always choose the hour just before dawn to I think Mr. Skelton was rather r^id any settlement.
annoyed
vexed
it
at his mistake.
When
at
trip,
he was
Dyaks up
52
SARAWAK AND
Moreover,
to
it
ITS
PEOPLE
them
have done
as
his
gunboat
Rejang River. I fancy the real truth of the matter was, that Mr. Skelton and his fortmen had become over-anxious, and I imagine my presence on the occasion also had something to do with it. It was whispered afterwards that two enormous tree trunks, borne down past the Fort by the current (in the semi-darkness just before
stationed in the higher reaches of the
dawn when
distance),
it
is
difficult to
distinguish objects at a
this
scare.
Nevertheless,
at the
must again
in
repeat,
was disappointed
tame manner
fizzed out.
CHAPTER
VII
THE
hood are
explanation.
a magnificent roadway to
commerce
in the interior,
neighbour-
large
number of Kayans
and Kenyahs are to be found in its tributaries. These people are, next to the Sea Dyaks, the most
important and advanced of the tribes of Sarawak,
and are scattered about the country in various rivers. They have attained a fairly high degree of civilization,
whilst other tribes consist of primitive people called
but
rely
in use
we
call
amongst so many Bornean tribes that thing the blow-pipe.^ The Punans make their
shelters, in limestone
or
in
the buttresses of
huge
trees,
live in
called
houses
1 Nowadays Punans, Bukitans, and most of the Ukits and do some farming.
54
SARAWAK AND
afford
ITS
PEOPLE
to
Tapangs, which
shelter
whole
families.
When
spot,
some other
mats
where
Notwithstanding
beautiful
weave
and baskets from palms gathered in the vicinity. They ornament such articles with patterns which must have been handed down to them from time immemorial
another
is
A favourite pattern
pattern.
fear,
the
Greek
"
key
"
They
are
from
kill
ments.
After remaining some weeks in the Rejang, and when peace had been restored amongst the disturbed people, who began to resume work on their
farms,
hosts,
the
Rajah and
left
to the
Batang Lupar.
We
down the
left-hand branch of
we
due south, passing the mouths of the Kalakah and Saribas Rivers. We had, alas for me, about four hours of sea to negotiate before we found
steered
much
of
The
me
to the cabin.
went on deck
the
Lupar.
to
be a river
SARAWAK AND
shores were so far
off,
ITS
PEOPLE
55
down
Lingga was a desolate place. Its Fort was built on a mud-bank. A small Malay village, its houses built on stilts, lined the banks, and were surrounded by cocoa-nut palms, which palms are said
to flourish in
brackish water.
The
present
Rajah
made
home
for
thence in 1854.
district
He
for
Rentap,
murdered so
settling
on the
in
creant tribe
who
finally
harmless by his
many
defeats.
It
Dyaks,
sometimes
numbering twelve
many
attacks against
is
have
on account of the
neighbourhood.
not land at Lingga on this occasion, but
We did
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
went on
Gospel
of Christians,
work of
civilization as a missionary.
He
many
men,
in their different
good of the natives. This missionary settlement is about fifteen miles by river from Lingga, and it was here that I had my first experience of travelling
for the
in a
Dyak
war-boat.
vessels
These
in length.
are
comfortable
enough,
being
A crew, A roofed
furnished with
off
;
daytime
As the crew shipped their paddles, I saw a long Dyak house, propped on stilts about forty feet high, planted some yards from the river-bank. As this place was situated within reach of the tide and we arrived at low water, a vast expanse of mud stretched
between us and dry land.
I
way
way
to the house,
SARAWAK AND
across the mud, supported
ITS
PEOPLE
57
by
trestles.
wondered
how
is
was
to
make
;
inquiries of
an unpleasant nature,
said nothing
it
better in
any emergency
when our
cleverly
kept
silent,
remember noticing
in their efforts,
how
our
the time.
The Rajah
six or
village.
I
the
way and
Dyak
during the
When my
of the
came,
four
boat.
My
progress
I
found
them to be as slippery as glass. My four supporters, two on each side of me, must have suffered severely, as I slid first on one side and then on the other. However, their kindly efforts prevented me from taking headers into the mud. But my troubles were
not yet over.
I
the
way up
saw the
Rajah hopping up
No
me
that
had
It
to do was only
will
it
be
S8
realized
SARAWAK AND
that
this
ITS
PEOPLE
sight to
was a disconcerting
feats.
it
as a
tried to
of turning
was very trying at clasped the pole with great fervour as I went
up,
ankles, placing
and one of the Dyaks behind me took hold of my my feet on each notch with great care.
in front of
hand and with my right I clutched the bamboo pole, and thus, with a good deal of slipping and a great deal of fright, I managed to reach the verandah of the house. An extraordinary thing happened on this visit. In every Dyak house of note and this was the
held
left
A Dyak
me
my
residence of a great
Dyak
is
chief,
called
Banting
women
which
I
of the tribe.
I
On
women
room,
should
them
in their
was
simply crammed.
little
calico and a fine Dyak mat were prepared for me, and the women and children squatted all round me
on the
the
floor.
of
my
hands and
pushed up
my
my
way up. I had with me one of the Mission all people, who acted as interpreter. He told me that the women wanted me to give them medicine to make
their noses stand out
make
me to
touch,
and
promised to
O O H H K o H H O U
2;
<1
SARAWAK AND
send them
pills for their
ITS
PEOPLE
59
The women gave me a basket they had made for me, and then showed me their mats which they make
so cleverly, their hats, and their paddles
the
much
in
same way English women would show their collection of fans. The conversation went on merrily, when suddenly we heard some ominous cracks underneath our feet, and before I knew where I was, the flooring had given way and the women and children, the interpreter, and I, were plunged about four feet through the floor. We hung
in bags, as
it
and these
The Dyak
into
safety.
me
The women
in all
screamed,
life.
and
never
my
The
Rajah, in the
there
support
When
so,
the
dignity
of
the
situation
allowed him to do
had taken place and said to me, " It is all right, You had better come the room was overcrowded. into the verandah and then everything will be quite safe." He was pleased with the manner in which I
had taken
this catastrophe,
I
chiefs told
him
it
knew how
to
behave
in
emergencies.
We then
To make
a long
6o
story short,
SARAWAK AND
I
ITS
PEOPLE
wonderful
We
to Kuching,
CHAPTER
first
VIII
since the
day of
my
it
and,
as
it
may seem,
in
Europe and
memory.
all
its
my
The charm
enchanted me.
by little I lost some of my European ideas, and became more of a mixture between a Dyak and a Malay. The extraordinary idea which English people enterI
and
am
not ashamed to
little
tain as
between the
my
me
Here were these people, with hardly any ideas of the ways of Europeans, who came to me as though they
were
my own
brothers and
sisters.
thought some of
in everything.
my ways
me
was
how ready
members
to care for
family,
little
as
of
my
familiar to me,
62
plates,
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
trait in their
acter
I
char-
wish
home
I
in
Kuching
it
as
appeared to
I
me
then and as
think of
now.
How
delighted in those
many hours
spent
on the broad verandah of our house, watching the life going on in the little town the other side of the river.
have said before that at high tide the breadth of the river where it runs under the banks of our garden is as broad as the Thames at Westminster
I
think
town looked so neat and fresh and prosperous under the careful jurisdiction of the Rajah and his officers, that it reminded me of a box of
Bridge.
little
The
The
and this quarter of the town is inhabited almost by Chinese traders, with the exception of one The Chinese shops look very or two Hindoo shops. much like those in small towns on the Italian Lakes.
entirely
from
India, sarongs from Java, tea from China, and tiles and porcelain from all parts of the world, laid out in
protect
all
SARAWAK AND
picturesque in the extreme.
ITS
PEOPLE
63
The Chinese junks were always a delight to me, with their orange and tawny sails drying in the sun, and the large "eyes" painted
in the
bows
way
and red are to be seen, and English, French, and Siamese flags also fluttered amongst the many masts carrying the Sarazontally striped flag of blue, white,
wak
colours.
The most
grotesque attitudes,
are of red
rest
all
along their
The
roofs
tiles, some of these being higher than the and having the curious Chinese termination at
line
and making
rise
it
more
sur-
a succession of
and fruit. The houses with their white walls and green and white painted blinds make a charming accessory to the background of forest trees. Churches of the different
denominations stand out prominently
for all Faiths enjoy the
in the landscape,
same privileges and freedom One sees at the hands of the Sarawak Government. the Roman Catholic and Protestant churches, Chinese temples marvellously decorated, Hindoo shrines, and
Muhammadan
mosques.
64
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
The
entrance.
Malay town lies towards the west, along the banks of the river, and beyond the town stretch miles and
miles of
flat forest land.
I
When
was
life
in
Kuching,
it
seemed
to
me
that the
machinery of
man
alive.
At
five o'clock in
rememdiffer-
is
scarcely
any
jumped out of
bed.
One had
At
to dress
and bathe by lamplight, and just as drink one's morning tea, the sun rose.
Kuching was fairly astir, and the Rajah and I used to go across in our boat (for there is no bridge anywhere over the river) to the landing-place below the court-house, where our horses were awaiting us. Mounting our animals was occasionally fraught with Our Syces (grooms) in Sarawak weremostly difficulty. recruited from the Buyan people of an island off Java,
who are
in
of animals.
For
instance,
my pony
in properly, according to
SARAWAK AND
I
ITS
PEOPLE
65
thirteen
and a
half
and round. I would say to the Syce, " Try and keep him still," whereupon the Syce would reply, "He doesn't want to keep still " Therefore so long as it suited the pony to turn round and round, the Syce It generally took some turned round and round too.
!
when
would
to his
back as best
could.
morning before
my
ride.
In those days,
a mile and a half into the country. Up and down this road, the Rajah and I pounded on our horses for the necessary exercise which every one must
for about
take,
tropics.
On
Palace
into the
sorts of people
and Chinese
Malays,
Dyaks,
The Rajah
of advice.
them kindly with a few words The motley morning crowd always reof pictures in the Bible stories of
minded
me
my
in
their
flowing robes,
women
from head to
little
foot, youths,
jumping
down
the
women
of a lower
66
class,
SARAWAK AND
there
ITS
PEOPLE
to
these people
common
so.
or vulgar
do
him by the redoubtable Subu. Four Malay chiefs, dressed in flowing robes and holding their goldenknobbed sticks, accompanied him to the Court, where five days in the week the Rajah dispensed justice from 8 to 10.30, a.m. A retinue of young men and boys, who had paddled the chiefs to the Palace,
followed the procession.
I
when Subu
when Subu,
the umbrella,
his
miiiisters,
disappeared from
my
building.
I
then went to
my
rooms, where
some Malay women waiting to see me. On one I was sitting with two or three Malay friends having coffee in the morning, when a young Chinese girl, in a cotton sarong and Malay jacket, dashed into the room, followed by one of the Guards. Her face was covered with scratches, her arms were one mass of bruises, and round her neck was a red mark as though she had been iialf strangled. She rushed up
occasion,
to me, caught hold of both
my
knees,
and
said
"
hope
place
in
I
wife.
The
am
in is
a wicked one.
am
a servant to a
SARAWAK AND
Chinese
ITS
PEOPLE
6l
woman who is jealous of her husband. When her husband goes out, she locks me in a room and beats, scratches, and tortures me in every possible way, because she thinks her husband looks upon me with
favour,
I
will stay
I
will
not leave
go back to those people the woman will kill me." The girl was very pretty, with a pale yellow skin and beautiful eyes, and I could quite understand that any woman might feel jealous of such an adjunct I sent the Guard away, and told the to her household. girl she might remain in a corner of my room until the
you, for
if
Rajah came back from the Court. Meanwhile, her employers, finding she had run away from their house, had straightway gone to the Court, where the Rajah
and an application was made for an The Rajah, order compelling the runaway to return. being told that the girl had gone to the Palace and
was then
sitting,
water.
girl
When
was
took hold of
my
had
gown, and said that if she was to go across courthouse, I was to go too to protect her.
with
to the
I
me
what was
to
be done.
and urged me not to let the girl accompany the I must say I felt rather police sent by the Rajah. " if our husbands " Never mind," they said nervous, make any difficulty, when they come home they shall know it. You do the same with the Rajah, and let us
:
68 save the
SARAWAK AND
girl if
ITS
PEOPLE
Moreover, when the
see
we
possibly can.
how
dreadful the girl looks, they too will not wish to send
When
the Rajah
details of
the Palace.
money
my
a,
servants,
me some
time, until
into
jealousy found
Chinese
living in
husband, and
still
Kuching under comfortable circumstances. A day or two after this incident, a war-boat full of Dyaks, headed by their chief, arrived in Kuching and came to the Astana to see the Rajah. If I remember rightly, these Dyaks had been, until recently, enemies of the Sarawak Government, owing to the usual failing their love of head-taking. They had come to lay their submission before their ruler, and to
behave better
in the future.
to
hear what
the chief
had
to say,
The
were
left
me
to
SARAWAK AND
keep
ITS
PEOPLE
69
them amused and occupied whilst he was engaged with the chief. As the Rajah and the chief
disappeared
I
down
made
me
new
into our
drawing-room, thinking
so
to them,
in
might prove of
interest.
I
knowing
their language)
a note or two.
them, and
whilst
I
These sounds apparently delighted made signs to them to sit on the floor
Grunts of satisfaction and
my per-
As
went
on,
They reminded me
strings attached
invisible
of a
number
of marionettes with
legs,
to their
arms and
moV^ed by
hands
Their bodies,
I
quite
all
sprang to their
and bounded about the room, yelling and waving I their arms in the throes of an animated war-dance.
did not
know how
;
to stop them,
and
felt
apprehensive
As
grew
louder, the
and I myself playing louder and louder, I wondered what would happen, when, in the midst of all this turmoil, the Rajah and the chief appeared in
higher,
70
SARAWAK AND
The
ITS
PEOPLE
suddenly and
the doorway.
warriors stopped
;
flopped
down
in squatting positions
little
on the
floor.
went on
playing for a
The
We all touched
filed
room and disappeared down the verandah. Rajah was amused and interested at the idea
feet, whilst I
The
of
my
my
and although
I
realizing that
my
that
morning
CHAPTER
IX
my
rats.
DESPITE
One knows
moisture
stitutions.
is
my
and
where the
transi-
When
tions from
beat
down on
vegetation,
the
exhalation
perfumes or
evil
odours into
the
atmosphere,
all
teeming
is
earth,
air,
and water.
the
malaria,
is
For
instance,
disease
capable of so
of
my
arch-enemy,
the
striped
mosquito.
I first
now
do not wonder
I
at
my
feelings of repulsion
whenever
saw these
on me.
72
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
I
my
was seized with a somewhat unusual form of malaria. Now the ordinary malaria is known by almost all Europeans who live in the tropics. The Rajah,
for
instance,
suffers
from
this
ordinary
but
very
the
way
me was
of a kind not
often
My
Its
kind
was symptoms
bad tempered.
The palms
feeling of
and
hold
dry,
and a
you.
of
all
:
These
preliminaries
Then,
of a sudden,
more
feel sick
it
and
are
fingers
retire
of steel
to
twisting
you up
in
You
bed,
propped by
pillows, for
up nor move
last half
it
may
an hour, or continue
when
same hour
the
Your
is
and on
for
becomes unbearable.
You
and get reduced to a shadow. Our English doctor in Sarawak, who was clever and intelligent, never
SARAWAK
understood
the
cupping-glasses,
73
leeches,
disease.
poultices,
He
and
prescribed
fed
me up
with
result
worse.
became
home,
me
in order to recover
my
health.
One morning,
in
during the
first
years of
I
Sarawak,
my Malay
me
maid,
my residence my
room and
owing
well
told
could
such emergencies,
I
could do to help
pills,
ma's friend.
juice,
took with
me
a box of
a bottle of meat
some milk and arrowroot, and, accompanied by I ma, sallied forth to the sick woman's house. I climbed up
the ladder that hencoop fashion led into her room, and pushing open the dried palm-leaf door saw a woman rolling about on the floor in paroxysms of agony. Here were the symptoms I knew so well the bright yellow complexion and rash all over the face. The woman was so weak she could hardly move. I ma went up to her, and lifting her up in " Rajah Ranee, who knows of her arms said medicines that will make you well, has come to see you." The woman looked at me, and shook her had brought some marvellous head. I told her I remedies, known only to Europeans, and made her
:
74
take two
SARAWAK AND
pills
ITS
PEOPLE
and a spoonful of Liebig. When her husband came in, I told him to give her a little milk
every hour, and forbade her to touch or eat anything
besides what
carried
inside
I
had prescribed
for
I
for
her.
She was
double
next
her mosquito
curtains,
bent
as
she
was,
and gasping
I
breath.
The
morning, when
for
visited her,
was delighted with the result of my doctoring, and for about a fortnight went She was very to see this woman nearly every day. poor, the wife of a man who earned his living by
the previous day.
selling
fish
which he netted
ih
in
The woman
well whilst
I
finally
stayed in Kuching.
sitting
As
house
to
was
writing
inside
my
I
mosquito
in
my
heard a fuss
going on outside.
Our
visitor
sentry
keep back a
I
who wished
in,
told
ma
whoever he might
be,
and wizened personage, without a jacket, and with garments dripping with mud and water, came in, carrying a net bag in which were a number
old
when an
of crawling things.
He
my
"
These
SARAWAK AND
into
ITS
PEOPLE
75
curry."
The
cannot
therefore got
I
my
grateful friend as
left,
soon as
(I
could, and,
it
directly
he had
told
ma
could not do
and her husband, Dul, enjoyed shrimp curry that evening. However, I asked no questions "What the eye does not see
rather think that she
"
!
woman
illness,
one of
my
absences from
"If Rajah
Ranee were here, with her medicines, her visits, and incantations, I should get over it, but I hope no more now, and I know I must die." Until the day of her death, she never wearied extolling my medical skill, and this cure of mine led to some embarrassing situations, for whenever there were
serious
cases
I
of
illness,
the
people
I
sent
for
me,
begging that
man's
wife.
On
woman
in the
hare-lips.
The morning
of their arrival.
76
I
SARAWAK AND
to
ITS
PEOPLE
ma came
me
father of the
to their house
I
twins,
me
but
babies'
go mouths
to
directly
straight.
was sorry
to
refuse,
many
medical
unlike
I
a good
realized
my
Nothing one can say or write can give any idea of the tortures one undergoes by the actual biting of mosquitoes. A great many
for mosquitoes.
Now
one at sunset.
This
is
a mistaken idea.
striped
A
it
certain
is
with
white,
most pernicious
pest.
if
I
By day and
the
shelter
night
harassed
all,
me
I
so
much
that
wanted to do anything at
did
had
to retire behind
of a mosquito
house.
My
Malay
friends
not
seem
;
to
care
indeed, they
seemed to enjoy the heavy slaps they administered on their faces, hands, or legs, in their attempts to kill the foe. Their methods, however, required a certain amount of skill. The results of their slaps were not pleasant to witness, and when imitating their methods of slaughter, I always had, close by,
a basin containing a
weak
and a
towel.
After a
bite,
the spot
would rub
chiefs.
My
paraphernalia
of
basin,
sponge,
and
SARAWAK AND
towel
elicited
ITS
PEOPLE
grunts.
TJ
from
them
various
They
made funny
Allah at
my
precautions.
I
now come
to rats,
which were a
far
more
serious
business.
told
me
she had
watched a detachment of
trying to get at
some fowls' eggs she had laid by for cake-making. She was inside her house (Malay houses are often rather dark), and in the dim light she saw
these swift-gliding creatures hovering near the place
where the eggs were stored. She waited to see what would happen, and saw a large rat large as are
Norwegian
6ggr>
its
rats
somehow
^^^ its
1^
ov^'"
"
&^^
firmly
on
stomach with
when
took hold of
its tail,
and by a
it
series of
backward jerks
A great many
these animals
stories
might be related of
I
rats,
but
was a migration which took place one I was just evening at dusk through my bedroom. from a severe attack of malaria, and getting better
was lying on the bed inside my mosquito house half awake and half asleep, with my Malay Ayah
sitting
corner of
my
room.
Suddenly,
78
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
My
room opened on
one who
houses
is
to
verandahs from
all
will
was easy
for
any
At
first I
thought
it
was the
result of malaria,
making
the rats
me
when
in
numbers of
tens, of twenties,
must have been hundreds, for the was one mass of moving objects, I called to the
sat motionless the other side of the room.
;
Ayah, who
was
Rajah, who I knew was in the room next to mine. As he came in, the rats ran up one side of him,
and
remember the
dull
jumped
hearing
my
still
me
to
make
noise as possible, so
had
to
remain
whilst thousands
passed through
my
room.
when
the rats
began
It
to diminish in
left to
number,
until there
were only a
few stragglers
follow the
main body.
known all
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
79
by the natives
that
if
kill
one
torn to pieces.
Looking deeper
one
wonders why these creatures should so migrate, and where they go but this no one seems to know.
;
is
it
my bedroom was my
the
human
I
By
and
come.
room,
began
had
wick
My
room was
by the dim
light of a
oil,
enclosed in a
lantern of glass.
The Ayah
force
unknown
life is
some
of creatures, one
inclined to forget
any repul-
sion one
may
feel
towards them.
I
rats visiting
me
on
differ-
don't
will
to
make
friends,
one
I
me
dreadfully.
8o
tures
all
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
killed,
when
after
world, just as
we
do.
I
On
another occasion,
was
fast
asleep
when
I opened my on my arm. I shook it Being in my mosquito off, and it fell to the ground. house, I was curious to discover how the rat had got
woke up
eyes
in,
and lighting a
for
it
had gnawed a
on a table
me
As
when
was
so perhaps
it
magnified
the disgust
felt
But think-
many
times since,
I
have largely
got over
my
I
do not think
nowadays,
my
room, because
CHAPTER X
THERE
little
mentioned by
with which
we
lizards
dojjvn the
houses in
in
They
colour,
make a funny
natives call
little noise, and on this account the them chik-chak. They have the peculiar
and rather disagreeable property of shedding their once or twice they have dropped these appendtails ages on to my head as they ran to and fro on the
;
ceiling.
It
if
a picture or a
is
moved,
an ordinary chik-chak,
shelters.
I
will
same
chak."
species
are
called
One might
I
also
make remarks
know very
when
little
if
getting up from
my
usual siesta,
saw on
82
SARAWAK AND
my
ITS
PEOPLE
called the
Rajah,
who
at once recognized
it
as an
enormous
effects
scorpion.
He
I
the wall, so as to
well
of
its
sting.
difficult
thing
it
to kill
it
Its shell is
its
death-blow.
hate seeing
it
anything killed
As
for
snakes,
am
and
against them.
They
see,
are the
in
my
in
Sarawak
is
the
Its
dangerous character
very virtues.
Whenever a hamadryad
and resents the presence of any human being within yards of where she has her nest. One afternoon, one of our Malay servants came screaming up the steps leading from the garden to our verandah, closely followed by one of these hamadryads, and had not a Guard seen her danger and killed the snake, she must have been dead in three or four seconds.
Although beasts of prey, such as
etc.,
tigers, panthers,
are
unknown
in
reptile in the
country
SARAWAK AND
I
ITS
PEOPLE
83
statistics
the loss to
human
life
or has
witnessed, the
I
powers of these
at dinner
creatures.
one
evening,
we heard
little
one of the
the
women
folk
we sent to inquire the cause. We the man had gone to bathe in the creek
laid hold of the log
which served as
He was taken to his house, tear off one of his legs. and although our English doctor did all he could for him, he died the next morning. I have often, in my excursions up and down the
in our small river boat by these and generally the boat boys were the first to see the tiny conical roofs above their eyes the only portion to be seen above the water and as
river,
been followed
reptiles,
these
that
move
you conclude
crocodile.
The
it
experience
not
a pleasant
one,
although
is
reptile is powerful
enough
to upset
The danger
to the inhabitants of
Sarawak
lies in
the
to another
on
84
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
Sometimes the canoe is so small you can hardly see its wooden sides, and its solitary occupant appears as though he were sitting on the water, Both men and women are paddling himself along. very skilful in the management of any craft on the
one person.
waters of these
rivers,
knock the boats in the air, and seize the occupants as they fall back into the river, paddle in hand, the people seem quite
diles often with a
swish of their
A great
on the
in
river,
many
it is
as civilized as
it
an enormous
crocodile,
some twenty
feet
length,
was the
terror of the
neighbourhood
for
months during the north-east monsoon of the country. Our Malay quartermaster on board the Heartsease was seized by this monster as he was leaving the Rajah's yacht
three or four
the
rainy season
to
his
go
to his house, a
in
little
canoe.
It
was
morning.
the calamity,
Although no one had actually witnessed it was certain the poor man had been
This was his
first
victim, but
The
crocodile
it is
very
At length
handsome
issued a proclamation
offering a
in catching
SARAWAK AND
the as
crocodile.
ITS
PEOPLE
85
much importance
The
executioner,
manned by twenty
colours,
paddles,
Sarawak
reading
the
Malay houses. Looking from my window one morning, I saw the boat gaily decorated and looking very important on the river, with the yellow umbrella of office folded inside and the proclamation from the Rajah being read. A few yards behind the boat I
imagined
I
my
The
or
natives
had
noticed
this
too,
and
it
was
if
down
it,
as
in
As
of
it
was being
the
towed a captive
first
to
the
place
execution,
it it
should be
brought to
-the
was
safely
made to it: "You are a Rajah"; You must come and see your brother " " You are the light of the day'' " You are the sun and moon
ary speeches were
"
;
etc.
These
flattering
remarks
were made by the captors as they dragged the huge scaly thing to its doom, but once it was safely in the
presence of the Rajah,
it
for the
most
86
insulting
SARAWAK AND
language.
I
ITS
PEOPLE
it
lay
helpless
with
its
paws
over
its
back
in
the
Rajah's garden.
careful to
keep
tail,
as one blow
from
it
went too
its
passed sentence,
head cut
off.
when human
were found,
a:s
to
his
death to be
Full of excitement
place, the
and zeal after what had taken Malays who had captured the crocodile
set
in
which was
thumb and
I
speeches, brought
to
me
for
my
acceptance.
feelings
was so
sorry,
I was grateful for such kindness, but thought the ring ought to belong to the victim's
wife or daughter.
sent
my
thought,
and was very glad when Talip and the ring disappeared from view. So ended the history of the great crocodile, whose doings are even now spoken of in Sarawak.
As we
we must not
SARAWAK AND
the monkeys,
ITS
PEOPLE
87
exists
;
in
the
wah-wah
it is
morning.
quickly take to
one of these
little
its
grey fur
wig of a clown,
soft
almost as that of
its
black
arms and legs, made it a beautiful little creature. Datu Isa placed the animal in my arms, when it
clung to
me
as children do.
The
care of this
full
little
of a want of
I
made me
it
quite miserable.
I
tried to
it
give
it
the food
liked,
and
kept
but
it
it
always with
me when
was
in the house,
sensitive
animals
human
kind in captivity,
wah-wah developed pneumonia a few had been given to me, and died. It grief to me, and I begged my Malay friends, as kindly as I could, not to give me any more such charming and yet such sorrowful presents. The wah-wah cannot live in captivity, for it is the lack
the poor
it
of their
creatures,
own
natural
food that
will eat
kills
these delicate
though they
cocoa-nut, which
is fatal
to them.
88
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
living in the
friend of mine, a
Malay woman
Malay town near our house, possessed an Albino wah-wah. It was considered a powerful " mascotte," and it lived with her people some time. It must have died during one of my visits to England, for I never heard of it again after I left Sarawak for the
first
time.
On my
return,
asked
my
native
women
what had happened to it, but they were very reticent in giving me news of the little creature. At " It went to another world, and we last they said would rather not talk about it any more." Another interesting animal in Sarawak is the buffalo. These animals are tiresome when they come into contact with Europeans. In fact, they
friends
:
by
like
natives.
with them.
talk to
They never
ill-treat
the animals,
but
this
them as though they were human, treatment making the beasts tame and easy
In
to
manage.
near
where buffaloes were required to drag trucks of coal to and from the mines to the landingcoal-mine,
was shipped to Kuching and Singapore, the animals were housed In stables made of palm leaves, and their keepers, who were Boyans, stayed
stage,
it
whence
with them.
man
or beast.
The
Rajah therefore ordered new stables to be built for the buffaloes and their keepers. When the new stables were finished and ready for their reception, it was
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
89
made any use of them. The Rajah, hearing this, made inquiries, when the overseer of the coal-mine, a native
who wrote
ing
him
new
In course
Rajah being of a
difficulties
tactful nature,
usually surmounts
his subjects,
that
may
arise with
any of
men
or buffaloes.
CHAPTER
XI
DURING Sarawak,
affection
those
first
four years of
my
stay in
the advent of a
still
little girl
and twin
Looking back
way
in
;
my
jingling
toys they
;
amuse them when they were quite babies the solicitude they showed for their health the many times they invited them to their houses, when I felt that they were even safer in their keeping
made
to
than in
my
own.
feel
my
mind,
more of a Malay than and makes me One sad incident I must mention,
contradict the
all
ever.
if
only to
are
common
of
idea that
Muhammadans
are outside
fanatics
religious
feelings
who
their
creed.
the Rajah,
fell
down
in
one of
my
this
son,
being
born
dead.
When
some of the
was very
ill,
far-off rivers of
the interior.
chiefs
SARAWAK AND
of the Rajah's
ITS
PEOPLE
91
Council were anxious to show their sympathy with me. When they heard that the child had never lived, they went to the doctor and asked him where it was to be buried. The doctor naturally
referred
them
to the Bishop,
it
who had no
other alter-
consecrated ground.
They came
them a
coffin
and
the
little
body
to
the
some of the Rajah's relatives are laid. These chiefs dug the grave themselves, and covered it over with a grass mound. I was much too ill at the time to know what was going on, but I was told afterwards that Datu Isa insisted on a tree of frangipani being
planted over the spot.
I
am
sympathy can never fade from my memory. The Rajah returned to Kuching immediately he heard the news, and in a few weeks I began to mend. When I was well enough, Datu Isa sat with me daily, and she said the event of my recovery must be
marked by a thanksgiving ceremony, for which an "You must lie quiet afternoon had to be set apart. morning, Rajah Ranee," she said, "and think all the I kind thoughts, so that your mind may be serene. I did will appear at three o'clock with my women." At not in the least know what she was going to do. three o'clock, according to her promise, Datu Isa headed a long procession of my friends, who came to
92
the door of
SARAWAK AND
my
room.
I
ITS
PEOPLE
and
was
we were
all
Datu
Isa
opened
the door of
my
mosquito house
hand a piece of something that looked like dried shark's skin, and in her other she held a ring of pure gold. One of her daughters had a basket containing grains of rice dyed with saffron. Datu Isa rubbed " something " two or three times, the ring against the and then traced signs over my forehead with the ring. She scattered a tiny pinch of gold dust on my hair, and threw a handful of the yellow rice over me. " Thanks be to Allah, Rajah Ranee, for you are well again." I was just going to speak, but she motioned me to be quite silent, and she and her women departed. Being somewhat given to superstition, I feel
sure that this quaint rite hastened
my
recovery.
Before
first
years of
my
I
I
stay in Sarawak,
would be ungrateful of
me
did
of
to live in
Kuching
since
my
first
Mrs.
;
Resident of Sarawak
all
We
he approved
SARAWAK AND
of
ITS
PEOPLE
93
my methods
them most completely. Owing to his desire to make more agreeable to me, he appointed my brother, Harry de Windt, his private secretary. This was a great joy to me, my brother and I being devoted
the place
to
one another.
like
to
in Sarawak, and the many expeditions on which he accompanied the Rajah, first inspired the
he took
travelling
passion
in
him and
is
led
to
his
future
achievements in the
for
many world-wide
explorations,
which (though he
my
brother)
It
think
may
rightly say
his stay in
was
also during
Sarawak
first
first
book and
began
his career as
an author.
So my
Sarawak
was
realized that
made
it
impossible for
me
to
remain
change to England.
made up
his
mind
to
go home
for the
for
a year or
so, for
he himself, with
expeditions,
good
As we
my women
to say
friends congregated
good-bye to me.
No
they
There they were, the best friends I ever^had, or ever hope to possess. I felt inclined to cry as I said goodbye to them all, and had it not been for ill-health, I
94
SARAWAK AND
to me.
this
ITS
PEOPLE
been hateful
It
was during
first
great
sorrow since
my
arrival in
Sarawak occurred.
The
three children
we were
home with
us died
Red
Sea,
CHAPTER
XII
IT
first
might be interesting
to explain, as briefly as
we now know
When
the
ing that the British Government would in time take the country under
British
its
protection.
Apparently the
to increase its
responsibilities
the
first
One
important fact to be
remembered
is
Empire been required to help the two Rajahs and their Government against their
the forces of the British
ejfternal enemies,
was only
in expeditions against
who swept
If
white Rajahs.
and, shall
we view
we
say,
man
in
difficult
and
for the
96
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
Most of us are aware that vast lands of tropical countries many of them ill-governed by native princes who are only anxious to amass
Rajahs themselves.
money
of the welfare of
their subjects
down
to these days,
have on
swooped
countries,
like
vultures
finding
its
way
into
princes
and in this way the unfortunate inhabitants, the real owners of the land, have been enslaved and forced by nefarious, cruel, and tyrannical methods to give their very life's blood so that these land-grabbing aliens might become rich. Being so intimately associated with the Rajah and
who
claimed the
his people,
it
is
natural
the opinions
of that portion
but
cannot help
thinking
that
and even now, the white Rajahs of Sarawak are classed with such adventurers, and on this account
they found
it
Here was a country come suddenly into existence, with all the paraphernalia of a good Government,
with
its
Ministers,
its
Courts of Justice,
all
its
safety
for life
and commerce,
in
SARAWAK AND
owned by
and
ITS
PEOPLE
97
private individuals.
Communication was
was only known to very few and inquiring minds amongst the ^lite of English-speaking
their people
people.
The Rajahs
an old and very much respected English family, they had few friends at the English Court to push forward
their interests.
Sarawak as an independent State by England occurred in 1863, whilst Lord Palmerston was Premier and Lord John Russell It was then that the Secretary for Foreign Affairs. first English Consul was appointed to Sarawak as a formal acknowledgment of its independence. Warships calling at Kuching saluted the Rajah's flag with
of
Rajah was acknowledged by the British Government The first Rajah died five as an independent ruler.
years after the appointment of the Consul, for
it
will
his
On
our
first visit
to
England
the Rajah was anxious to pay homage to Her Majesty, which was only an ordinary act of courtesy on
his part, considering his position as ruler in a portion of
Her
in
view
98
of
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
Sarawak having been recognized as an independent State. The Rajah was informed that Her Majesty's Government did not see their way to present him to the Queen as Rajah of Sarawak, but that he could
attend a levee in the private capacity of an English
The
difficulties
when one remembers that the Rajah was governing Sarawak for the benefit of his people, the British Government
having recognized the country over which he ruled.
Owing
in his
to
the
to
exigencies of his
Government, the
to
assist
him work these gentlemen, being nominated by him and paid out of the Sarawak treasury, owed no allegiance to the Foreign or Colonial Offices at
;
Rajah had
employ Englishmen
home.
To
their
chief,
was
to
the
British
recognize
the
England as
After
ruler of his
own country
Rajah,
Her
Majesty's,
being presented to
officials
Her Majesty
as though
as Mr. Brooke.
The
insisted that
placed in brackets,
Rajah's position
!
<
O
<
<
Pi
w X X
X H
O
c
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
and
it is
99
difficult
own
personality.
No
and
Government.
Although
had nothing
I
to
do with
the politics of
my
adopted country,
shared in
my
be protected, and
its
ruler's
position
acknowledged
people.
by the Queen,
stability to
its
in order to
Government and
Howshown
many
an
obvious
and statesmanlike
political
methods.
preoccupa-
the time
I
we spent
quickly
life
in
delightful.
regained
moment
did
forget
my
I
amongst
my
Dyaks.
The
visit
present Rajah
Muda was
his
this
to
England, and
elicited
letters.
arrival
telegraphed to
Sarawak,
delightful
When
the time
came
for
our
100
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
six
months old, and owing to the sorrowful experience we had had of the dangers of a sea-voyage for young children, we left him in charge of our good friends, Bishop and Mrs. MacDougall. Our baby was to stay with them in England until he had completed his first year, when
return to our country, our son
was
he was to rejoin us
in
Sarawak.
CHAPTER
XIII
I
WHEN
were,
we
returned to Sarawak,
felt,
as
it
a giant refreshed.
of malaria
could see
friends
on
its
broad verandahs
my Malay women
possessor
We
had
Datu
Isa
Vas
the proud
of four
more
grandchildren,
and these
were
duly presented to
me, wrapped
in the tight
I
was told that Datu Isa and the other chiefs' wives were delighted with the behaviour of their lords and masters during my absence, who had not so much as hinted at the possibility of
Malayan
babies.
Talip
was
as usual, in
his
do not know
just
how
know Subu better than I ever did before. /-He was an old man then, nearing the end of his career, for he was one of those who had been with the first Rajah Brooke when he was made Rajah of Sarawak. Such stories the old
came
about, that
I
got to
I02
SARAWAK AND
to
tell
ITS
PEOPLE
man had
as
it
sad
embarked on three, one less than the number allowed to good Muhammadans by the great Prophet himself. The youngest wife he had married not so long ago gave
may seem
to
relate,
he
had
trouble,
"She
will
not listen to
tell
my
me.
is
"This
it
troubles
my
heart
it
makes me
sick.
She
is
She
pretty,
true,
my
eldest
wife's
not the
way young
the
who
old wives
unknowing."
at
me
in
their
precedence.
to say that
No.
2,
and No.
and
am bound
No. 3 wives always asked permission of the No. i These wife before they ventured on a remark.
brilliant
specimens of the
truthful,
womanhood
I
of
Malaya,
so,
to be quite
unaccompanied by these
floor of
dames.
He
used to
sit
on the
tell
my
room, on a mat
events, fights,
me
of
many
and hairbreadth escapes he had encountered in his His most interesting stories, howchequered career.
o
P5
<!
D
w
O
Tl
Is
w K O
<!
O <
P
H
S H
SARAWAK AND
ever, related to the victims
ITS
PEOPLE
103
whom
he had dispatched
all
into
the
next world.
They almost
belonged to
the
same order of criminals. There were a few Chinese murderers, who had killed people through
;
avarice
Malays,
who had
slain
;
people on account of
on
as
their
own
As
far
Dyak and Malay malefactors went, it appears the same scene was nearly always enacted, but I had
better say at once that no
in
man
Sarawak without the Rajah's sanction, he alone having power over life and death throughout the country. Very often the trial of more serious crimes lasted some days, so thorough were the inquiries set on foot by the Rajah and his ministers. The trial for murder in Kuching is hedged around by the same precautions when a human life is at
stake as
it
is
in the
Courts of
Law
in
England.
A
is
own countrymen
sentence
has to be passed,
it
is
only after
other resources
usually led
have
failed,
out to his
passed.
doom the morning after the sentence is The criminals are executed by the kris,
I04
SARAWAK AND
is
ITS
PEOPLE
flat,
A kris
sharp point.
It
is
inserted
in
cavity
of the
condemned man's right shoulder, and thrust diagonally across the body through the heart, causing instan" Do they never tremble ? " I would taneous death. ask Subu. "No," he said; "they do not tremble. They smoke cigarettes while their grave is being dug, and sometimes they eat betel-nut and sirih. Then, when I tell them, they sit on the brink of their grave
as though they were sitting on the edge of their bed,
We
always
"and very
often
we
all the way to the place of execution," The condemned men never quite knew when their last moment had come, for they sat placidly
smoking until Subu approached from behind them, and with one blow of the kris sent them into
eternity.
trifles,
"
You
white people
fret
too
would
lives.
"
We take
it
just as
it
moment
I
end our
to their
Many
I
sent
"I
am
an old
now, but
to kris ten
man permit me
into
His
paradise.
I
more. Rajah
is
shall consider
my work
done."
tender heart.
He
SARAWAK AND
and animals, indeed,
ofjpressed.
ITS
PEOPLE
105
to all
who were
desolate and
The
capital
the
in
point.
of
drilled
men,
from
number,
of
recruited
Sarawak,
together
with
few
Sikhs,
who
voluntarily
come forward to join this paid force. The Commandant in charge of this battalioncalled the Sarawak Rangers is nearly always a retired
officer
from
the
British
army,
and
the
Rajah
men
They
the
use of guns.
The men
drill,
and are as
all
management
drill
of field pieces.
;
Their uniform
is
of
white
Whenever
the
his
men form
his bodyguard.
They
also act as
build-
ings in Kuching.
One
gang of
excursion to
Kuching.
orchard,
full
io6
SARAWAK AND
etc.,
ITS
PEOPLE
apples, pine-apples,
dear to
The
demolished the palings, entered the garden, and began eating the fruit. The noise they made hacking
at the trees
built
in
man
the
He
thieves,
he raised his voice in order to elicit the help of passers-by on the road. This so exasperated the youths, who were
notice, so
fruit,
who took no
that
of anger the
and
killed the
done,
friends,
his
heels,
fol-
leaving the
Chinaman
efficient
in
an
body of
officer.
The
home
to the Ranger,
who
On
Rajah
the
morning of the
arranged
to
I
had
go
visit
to
the
was to go with him, accompany him happened include the brother of the man who was to
to
The
Instructor
in
charge
men informed
sword.
SARAWAK AND
barracks.
I
ITS
PEOPLE
107
ready to take vengeance on the Government which had condemned his brother to death. The Instructor
it
have
this
man
the
included
his
personal
bodyguard.
" for
"On
very
contrary,"
let
said
the
Rajah,
him come with us." man did accompany us and behaved himself perfectly, and by the time we returned to Kuching he had proved himself to be one of the most exemplary members of the
that
reason
Rajah's bodyguard.
Now
It
a matter of wonder to
me how efficient this body of Malays and Dyaks becomes under the charge of young Englishmen. The Sarawak officers are chosen in a very original way. Many of them fresh from some university have somehow heard of the methods of the Rajah and his Government, and very likely feeling an admiration
for the romantic story
called
it,
upon
it
to under-
as
were.
The
of the
are,
heads of the
officers
the person
whom
I
may
be,
io8
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
if
they had
Thanks
and unceasing vigilance of these officers, such calamities have been averted. This efiiciency says a good deal
for the loyalty
men who,
climate,
in spite
lack of amusement, upon no English society to fall back upon in moments of depression, and despite of their very modest salaries, have entered so whole-
of frequent illnesses,
dullness consequent
If
English
heroes,
officers
would stand
to the little
affairs,
in
the
first
rank
of
Owing
its
given to
deeds
public,
will
their
to
the
British
and
themselves
will
not
the
Sarawak has borne fruit in the growing and contentment of its people.
CHAPTER XIV
WE
down to our ordinary at Kuching, when the news came of a tribe of Dyaks giving trouble in the
had hardly
settled
life
Batang Lupar
Simanggang.
district.
got
my own
way.
We
started at midday,
and had
I
to
spend the
first
if
more trying than mosThey attack one in swarms, and are almost invisible, so that the meshes of a mosquito
these insects are
quitoes.
and hands.
The
stifling,
the ternpera-
no
face
SARAWAK AND
and hands included
ITS
I
PEOPLE
wrapped myself up
in the boat.
good deal of discomfort was obviated by my wearing need not say that my beautiful Malay dress. I garments, made by the chiefs' wives, were discarded on this occasion. Over a shift of white silk, I folded a cotton sarong, and wore a long Malay cotton
jacket over that.
In countries hot as
is
Sarawak,
I
took
with
me
dozens
silk
of scarf
cotton sarongs,
(not forgetting
right
cotton
jackets,
Isa's
and one
Datu
should
injunctions
that
only
conical
the
eye
be
visible).
large
straw
hat effectually
shaded
my
face
an
umbrella.
morning
had
to think
ma,
my
on
my journey. Our
thirty,
and knew of several pools of fresh water not far from the place where we had anchored. Our boat,
River,
being of great
size,
which
ma and
established ourselves.
to the shore.
I
ma
we wobbled
held
and
luckily only
ma
brought
my
SARAWAK AND
me
to
ITS
It
PEOPLE
in
place, screened in
by trees, morning dip. I had brought with me a piece of soap, and tying a sarong under my armpits stepped into the pool, and with the help of a dipper made of palm leaves poured the water over my head repeatedly, and in this manner managed to obtain a
fairly
enjoyable bath,
pool to
bathe
We
from the Batang Lupar River, and slept the next night at Lingga Fort. Our paraphernalia when
travelling
the
mattresses, which
for the
Rajah's and
carried
my
comfort
were
in
on
the
shore
and
on
the
floor
the
Fort,
mosquito curtains were then hung up, and thus we were provided with a comfortable shelter for the
night.
The
arrived
next day,
at
after
Fort
Alice,
Simanggang immediately on receipt of his dispatch, he had not expected to see me as well. There, however, as elsewhere, I met with nothing but kindness. Mr. Maxwell cheerfully gave me his rooms, and disappeared goodness knows where in some dim portion of the Fort. He would
his
make
way
to
112
SARAWAK AND
none
it
ITS
PEOPLE
and
pretended
have
of
my
apologies,
he
thought
my
over
company.
The
to
all
the place.
The
loyal
and
friendly tribes,
in
who were
had
accompany the
various
Rajah
his
expedition,
bearing
calling-out
spears,
together
Each morning a
of
the tribe to
off
knot
is
taken out
by the
are
chief
whom
marking
the the
number of days
elapse
before
Rajah requires his trusty subjects to follow him. It might be as well to mention that, with the exception of the Rangers (the drilled force from
which the
Rajah
chooses
his
fort-men,
sentries,
and bodyguard), the remainder of the force might be compared to the English Reserves, for although
the taxes of the people are very light Dyaks pay-
annum
for their
whole family
does not exempt them from military service. Those Malays who pay an exemption tax of two dollars per annum per family are exempted from As a matter of fact, whenever the military service. of Malays or Dyaks were required on exservices peditions, the Rajah usually found himself at the head of a far too numerous body of men, every man and boy being always eager for a fight, and whenever the fight was a lawful one, engaged under the leadership of the Rajah himself, hardly any of the Dyak male
SARAWAK AND
homes.
ITS
PEOPLE
to
113
in
remain
their
A large number of
hall of the Fort,
chiefs
assembled
in the great
rifles
and
arms.
When
any
matter required to be
or sixty
I
floor.
have
chiefs
been present
at
such meetings.
The Rajah
and the
sat
on cane
chairs,
fluent speeches.
it
do
for
know
the
Dyak
language, and
is
impossible
Their
disconcerting
way
knowing Malay,
they said, but
there.
I
supposed
councils
fixed
perfectly
motionless, their
eyes
man
are
Dyaks
born
orators,
They
is
men
in eulogistic
terms
is
"He
good,"
I
"He
is
brave,"
"His mouth
beautiful,"
etc.
114
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
amongst primitive people seems to change the temper, and make patience an ordinary accompaniment to life in those
his officers, but living
Rajah and
regions.
I
well
this particular
conclave.
Maxwell, the
and
I,
went
where
Many
be found in nearly
blunderbusses in
a hundred years
expeditions
old,
in punitive
Dyak
Dyak
"and
in
crowd holding his head. The "Medicine gone from that gun," he
head-handkerchief."
man
said,
smiled,
hit
my
off
He
and held
off.
it
up,
when we could
had been
gone
and
By
in
wounded
the
that had so unexpectedly happy chance no person was crowded room. I felt disturbed
looked at
"
the
moustache as he does
takes place.
Rajah, who was pulling his when anything out of the way
"
!
Strange
he
said,
looking at the
"
man
Why
tell
do you
you not
grunt.
.*
"
he said
"
always
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
115
happened.
When
Maxwell, and
met and
was discussed
that
at length,
the powder
many
solved, but
the incident
to
bring
out sharply a
In a few
mand
of the Rajah.
in their
Dyaks
cloths
war
of bright
colours,
their
swords
them proudly to the landingA regular place and stacked them in their boats. flotilla of large war canoes followed the Rajah's boat, the paddles making a thundering and rhythmic noise It was as they churned up the waters of the river. very splendid, exhilarating, and picturesque. All the able-bodied Malay men in the place followed the Rajah, so that the Malay village of Simanggang, lying beyond the Chinese Bazaar, was almost deserted.
rattling as they carried
of
its
male population.
who once had been a subject of the Sultan of that country but who had become a Sarawak subject, a chief called Abang Aing, and
Pangiran Matali,
chiefs
from neighbouring
rivers,
ii6
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
names and curious personalities reminded me of Tweedledum and Tweedledee, for they seemed inseparable
friends),
also
accompanied
the
Rajah.
him.
their courage,
in helping
him with advice in political matters referSarawak Government. Daiang Kota, Abang Aing's wife, was a famous woman, a worthy helpmeet to her husband and a loyal subject of the Rajah's. I knew all these people well, and their
ring to
the
fade from
my
heart.
A
to
Tunku
Ismael,
was
left
He
was
g,
Serip,
taller
than
most Malays, and had beautiful ascetic features, dark He was always piercing eyes, and a hooked nose. and wore the white skull cap that dressed in white,
followers of the Prophet often wear, instead of the
more cumbrous turban. This charming old gentleman and I were friends, for I always met him during my many visits to Simanggang, Mr.
Maxwell's
little
dog,
called
Fury,
half-breed old
Yorkshire
toothless,
terrier,
a valiant
little
creature,
and
was
called
my
SARAWAK AND
bodyguard.
ITS
PEOPLE
117
He
slept at
my
me
in
my
daily walks
orchards
I
Of
course,
ma was
with me, and she sent to the village for an old lady
of her acquaintance, whose name was Dalima (meaning pomegranate), to come and help her wait
on me.
work.
outside
I
My
the
got up at
on the terrace
Then
came
in
to
have a cup of
of the place.
tea,
After this I had my solitary by one of our Malay servants, who had been left behind to attend on me. From 12 to 2 I had my siesta, then more visits from the natives until 5, when it was cool enough to go out
women
breakfast,
served
the
made
hour of sunset
after a hasty
fell
more or
in
year round.
Then,
meal spent
inside
pests.
in
fighting
clouds on to
my
food,
a hurried ex\t
my
They
my
oil.
night-light
They
ran
away with
side,
my
bed-
and were
be seen
in
companies scurrying in
in the port-holes of
my
ii8
SARAWAK AND
would
sit
ITS
PEOPLE
their
heads on
one
side,
and brush
their whiskers, as
taking stock of
Fury used to lie at my feet, and it required all my persuasion to prevent him from sallying forth on the warpath against the rats, some of which were almost as big
my toilet.
as himself.
little
animal meeting
some
able visitors.
by the candles and cocoa-nut oil, came in such numbers after a few days, that I asked I ma and Dalima to put their
rats,
The
attracted
mattresses in
the night.
my room and keep me company during When first this measure was broached
"
I
enemy might
and take us unawares during the night " to which remark I replied what was really very true that
me much more
in
Dyaks
lonely,
in the country.
Although
I
my
stay
Simanggang was
I
rather
had
certain compensations
entirely
women
the
Sarawak people
call
From
a
used to watch,
little
migration of these birds to and from their roostingplaces to the fishing grounds on the coast.
Simang
SARAWAK AND
gang
is
ITS
PEOPLE
119
company
The
and rose made symphonies of colour as they formed and re-formed with the movements
of
orange
of the birds.
wings over
Another wonderful sight on the shores of that Batang Lupar River was the Bore, a fortnightly phenomenon. Now the Batang Lupar, as I have said before, is four miles in breadth at its
mouth.
when
forced, as
it
were, into a
through which
it
shallow river,
hurling
itself
against
such
walls of white
it
foam
it
rounded the
last
reach before
boats,
in
passed Simanggang.
Sometimes
tiny
I20
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
swiftly-moving backs of
flies
the
waves, the
little
The
children
seem
to
on such
Bore
often
As
it
pounded up the banks, tossed itself against snags, and fell back in huge cataracts of water, the spray, touched by the sunlight, looked like a rain of precious stones. Then on it went in its furious course, shaking the boats moored to the banks near the Bazaar, tossing them hither and thither, sometimes tearing one or
two away from
their moorings, until growling, fighting,
it
and
of
wrestling,
was
lost to sight.
For the
my
As
was seated at breakfast one morning, a perspiring Dyak, frightened and incoherent, found his way to my room and fell at my feet. I ma and Dalima were with me, and Dalima, understanding
I
the
Dyak language, translated the man's words to me. "The Rajah is killed," he said. "All are dead, and I go home." I looked at the man and saw his
complexion was of a pale greenish brown, like that of
some people when terrified or ill, and I imagined he must be of an hysterical nature. I sent for Tunku Ismael, who was then having his breakfast at his
home
in the village.
The
floor,
SARAWAK AND
to
ITS
PEOPLE
I
121
move, when he gave vent to remained speechless. When Tunku Ismael arrived, he shook hands with me, and took his seat crosslegged on a sofa opposite
me
He
did
his
down and
?
his knees.
"Tell me,
Tunku,"
said, "
what
is
This
man
is
killed.
He
liar),
he not?"
replied.
"
Bohong benar"
is
(truly
the
Tunku
are a
"It
could
"You
have
the
too,
said
Tunku
"You
Another
man on
"All
" Dead,
all
will
be here to-morrow."
lies,"
Tunku Ismael assured me, and once more turning to the man, he said, " Get out of this, and never
let
me
With
of.
I
that the
man
slowly
departed,
my
knowledge was
story.
terrified
why the man should have told this Tunku thought he must have become
run away from the
added, " a
force.
The
" Let
him go
in
and peace," he
to this
coward
like that is
bala"
(force).
No more
about
it.
attention
was paid
rumour than
soon forgot
and we
all
122
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
Ismael came to
Tunku
me one morning
walks
you go out for long and seem to have no all round the settlement, idea of danger, or that there might be bad spirits about. Sunok is exceedingly old, and if anything should happen to you during your long walks, what could I do to protect you ? " I inquired what danger
Ranee, you are under
care,
my
knew
of none.
"Oh
yes,"
he
said,
many dangers. There are people we call Peniamuns who dress in black, cover their faces with
black cloth, and
passers-by.
sit
in
trees waiting to
pounce on
Now, Rajah Ranee, should one of these Peniamuns get hold of you, we could never get you back again, so will you kindly walk up and down the terrace of the Fort, and not go any farther, for the Peniamuns are a real danger." I listened politely to
Tunku
my
customary
thrown over a
Chinese Bazaar
women and
on the look-out
for
home by
more feared by
the
of
up the
river,
not quite
make them
out,
SARAWAK AND
looked like war;boats.
ITS
PEOPLE
123
We
we
stepped outside
saw a group of Kayans from the boats, carrying spears and swords, rushing up to the Fort, headed by a small man
what was happening.
recognized by
We
Tama
in the
Paran,
Tunku Ismael as being a chief named who did not bear a very good character
district.
Rejang
he
had made
me.
asked him
"We
Paran.
path,
accompany him,"
:
said
Tama
know
said
;
replied
" the
this last
he
"we
we wish
was a
serious
state of things.
If
go
or
after the Rajah, with no responsible European Malay leader to keep it in check, the Kayans might attack some unprotected village up the higher reaches of the Batang Lupar River, take some heads, and pretend it was done on the Rajah's behalf. I said to the chief, "You must not move from here until the Rajah comes back, unless you return to
your
village."
The man
He
124
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
Tunku Ismael
and
war.
I,
We
agreed
it
Kayans
frighten
inhabitants.
We could
Tunku
men.
He owned
it
would be somewhat
if
difficult to
keep them
best.
in order
same
we intended
to
do our
might be disagreeable.
as to
also felt a
little
apprehensive
what
my
came
if
my
women and
children
was
Kayans would do me any harm, for the consequences when the Rajah returned. I
fear of
there-
accompanied by the trembling octogenarian, Sunok, and the small dog Fury. I went along the Bazaar, and
found the Chinamen standing outside their shops, who told me, in Malay, as I passed, that they wished very
much
those
men would go
rice,
away.
at
cooking their
SARAWAK AND
made no attempt
"
to
ITS
PEOPLE
125
my humble
procession.
When
reached
narrow plank of wood leading to the Malay settlement, I saw a big burly Kayan standing the other side of the
plank with his legs straddled, almost daring
me
to pass.
were ornahis
hung over
little
straw
crown and a waist-cloth of bark. I got within two feet of the man, who gave a not very pleasant smile as
Fury barked
loudly.
turned to Sunok.
"
Remove
:
that man,"
is
said,
I
but
Sunok weakly
replied
"
He
too strong,
can't!"
The
in
situation
was
ludicrous.
Had I turned back, it my part, so I asked the man, of my way, but he remained as
There was nothing left for me but to press forward. I walked slowly across the plank until my chin (I was taller than the Kayan) nearly touched his forehead. Still he did not move, After a so I stood as immovable as he, and waited. few seconds the man skulked off, and I went on my way. The Malay women had witnessed this incident from their gardens, and they rushed jap to me saying " Do take care, Rajah Ranee, and do not go out by
:
yourself like
this.
The Kayans
126
SARAWAK AND
I
ITS
PEOPLE
we are."
upset,
and
for
my
evening walk.
The
asked
a sum of
Kayan chiefs came and money which they knew was kept
might buy
should
I
not give them any money. Every day the chiefs came on the same errand, requesting money and permission Personally, I was surprised they did not to move.
Tunku Ismael said they feared me, and he was the course we were taking was the only one to
These Kayans were a great nuisance in Simanggang. flourishing their spears and swords, frightening the shop-keepers and agriculturists into providing them with food. Indeed, the situation was daily becoming more alarming, and the interviews between the intruders and myself became more and more stormy, until one afternoon, when they had been
in the
neighbourhood
for ten or
became almost
money," they
unmanageable.
We
must
have
"and we must follow the Rajah, and we do not care what anyone says." Tunku Ismael and I hardly knew what to do, when a bright I knew these people liked thought struck me.
said,
and so putting on a
etc.,
said,
"
Tama
SARAWAK AND
all
ITS
PEOPLE
127
who
my words.
it.
You
I
are
But as
see
a strong will
among you
I
to
rate, stay
for to-
morrow
having
is
a particular date
have
will
last
To-morrow
I tell
will tell
*
what
will
you do
"
inquired
I
And Tama
the
Paran.
with,
hope, a magorders,
nificent gesture.
my
I
swamp every
boat of
got up and
hear
my
remarked
guns."
think
"
But we do not
I
"No,"
they
"
!
we know, and
That evening I went for my walk unmolested, and I I felt anxious. retired to bed earlier than usual. should have been so disgusted had the Kayans gone
away, in spite of
my orders
with the
to the contrary.
should
have
lost prestige
the chil-
think had
I
seen any
should somemidst.
was wondering
make
my
arguments.
128
SARAWAK AND
The
I
ITS
PEOPLE
itself.
The
very
in
next morning
heard the
yells of victorious
I
Dyaks
knew all would be safe because the Rajah was returning. The Rajah soon sent the Kayans back to their homes, and, when
all
experience.
CHAPTER XV
THE
to
The enemy's
so
farther
and
river
rice
farms were
the
destroyed
as
to
compel
people
settle-
move
down
the
and form
above
about
fifty
miles
Simang-
Two or
we took
boat to return to
at Lingga,
Kuching.
off
We
and started
Sibuyow.
We arrived
late in the
evening at
Sibuyow village, where a messenger, sent by the Rajah the day before, had informed the people that
we wished
It
to
when we
dead with
was almost
all
of musical
9
instruments,
I30
SARAWAK AND
lining
ITS
PEOPLE
risen
rhythmic noise.
and mangroves
against
all
the
pale,
The
trees
mangroves
of
fire-flies,
down
the
river
reminding
illuminated.
me
of
Christmas
shore
magnificently
My
passage
not
on
at
all
was
ladder,
made
laid
with
across
the
customary
difficulty.
The
the
mud, was
for
easy for
me
to
negotiate,
the
feet
apart.
to
help
me by
the
hand and led me into a room, at one end of which was a large raised platform, on which were laid mats and embroidered cloths for the Rajah and myself to This audience-room, similar to those built in sit on. almost all Malay chiefs' houses, was filled with the village people, who had come to see the Rajah and I was very tired and listen to what he had to say. longed for rest, but did not Hke to say anything for
fear of disappointing the people
who had so kindly The Rajah and I sat whilst the chiefs made
tired,
1
:
interminable speeches.
and
Rajah
must go away;
to try
am
tired."
and
SARAWAK AND
keep up a
little
ITS
PEOPLE
131
At
length, however,
it
people or no people,
could
stand
no
longer,
and going behind the Rajah full length on the floor, and
to the conversation ceasing,
fast asleep,
and found the chief's wife bending over me. She told me she would lead me to a room where a bed was prepared for me, and taking my right hand, followed by her daughter, a young girl, dressed in silks, satins, and gold ornaments, together with four of the most aged females it has ever been my lot to see alive, she led me into the women's apartment,
where, occupying about a quarter of the room, was a
of red-and-gold embroidery.
up a corner of
it,
Seven
pillows, like
hard bolsters,
stiff
and
these
being the
couches,
all
Muhammadan
hard,
and
below
them
was a
knobbly gold-em-
me
to rest
who grunted
deal,
of
them holding
I
fans, in
order that
night.
When
them
I
daybreak came,
to
tell
132
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
All
over
it
is
ma was
not permitted
my
accompany me
my
morning bath.
The
chief's
the four old cronies with their sirih boxes and paper
fans,
came with me
I
a pool of water.
stepped into
this,
mony
this
filled
Dressed, as
was, in
a sarong,
After
his
my
and poured over my head. Malay costume, and bathing in change of clothes was easily effected.
I
my
bath
tea.
We
limes,
eggs, ancient
things, too
numerous
by
these people.
On
this occasion
if
I
we were without
remember
rightly,
either guards
or police, and
the
Rajah's
As
was
my way
to the boat,
believe,
a very shabby and not overclean old lady, who, I was one of the chief's servants, rushed up
SARAWAK AND
to
I
ITS
PEOPLE
133
me and
carried
fear
deposited in
my hand
little
a solitary egg.
to
this
touching
trembling,
present
it
the
boat
or
in
fall
and
of
lest
should
break
out
my
hand,
and
the
thus
disappoint
the
old dame.
Our journey
incident.
across
sea was
not without
We
were
in a shallow canoe,
manned by
(it
some
thirty
would not have been safe to go very far out to sea) a storm came on, and the boat began to rock badly. It was lucky that at critical moments our crew could
jump
I
Curiously enough,
am
The danger on
this
Sarawak River we had to cross the mouths of the Sadong and Samarahan Rivers, and although I was perfectly unaware of the danger, the Rajah was a
little
to
we were
drenched.
It
was
difficult to
in the boat, as
we were exposed
best of
it.
we had
to
make
the
It is
one
cold,
and
suppose
must be
of our wetting
we were none
I
the experience.
ma was
that
if
whispering to
me
134
SARAWAK AND
the
to
ITS
PEOPLE
but as he did not
it
make
seem
sea worry,
I
behave
better,
she supposed
did
not
matter
was very glad when we arrived at our comfortable Astana, and could sleep between linen
very much.
sheets once more.
CHAPTER XVI
A
and
I I
WEEK
coming
after
I
our
return
to
Kuching, the
Rajah and
to
Sarawak
our
eldest
son.
An
out,
remember so well the mail-boat arriving late in the afternoon, when from the verandah I saw through my glasses a short European lady, in white, carrying in her arms a baby in a blue sash.
am
and
it
we
honours.
The
next day,
all
and nearly
the
women
He was
very good
a real happiness to
me
to
know
showed
these people at
life
has lasted
all
through these
to
of
work
in
schemes
the advancement of
his
country.
136
SARAWAK AND
requests
ITS
PEOPLE
chiefs
Many
came
to
him from
of rivers
beyond our
territory,
of his Government.
just
first
It
now
to refer to the
map
When
the
Rajah began
to reign,
territory stretching
River.
The
maladministration
Sultan
of
Muka, and
government.
Sarawak Governso
that
ment,
at
the
request
of
the
first
inhabitants,
when
extended as
to the
Turning again
map,
will
of which
Baram River
still
belonged to the
possesses a considerable
Kayan
and these people were anxious the Rajah should visit them in order to establish commerce and
trade
with
Sarawak.
The
Sultan of
all
Brunei was
he could to prevent
At
Her
sentative in the
o c
o
g
6:
<
SARAWAK AND
of Borneo.
ITS
PEOPLE
137
it
advisable to take
me
We
up the
late
Muka
Muka was
Mr. Claude Champion de Crespigny, a man whose name must be beloved for all time in Sarawak. He was sympathetic, wide-minded, intelligent, and
the
Muka
this
The
people of
Muka
are Milanoes
in
and forms a very important article of commerce in Sarawak. Some one told me that more than one-half of the whole of the sago exported to England comes from Muka and its neighbourhood.
district
I
do not know
if
it
is
certain that a
this place
way from
Ltd.,
at Muka. remember our tour in a boat round the Muka township it was like most Malay settlements the houses are built on the river-banks on piles. I thought a sago manufactory the most evil-smelling thing in existence. Here I observed how my rings, chains, etc., made of almost unalloyed Sarawak gold,
138
SARAWAK AND
it
ITS
PEOPLE
to restore
I
was impossible
them
in
colour so long as
remained
town.
flocked to
'
the
Fort to see
had no
experi-
ence of Englishwomen.
and they have the slanting eyes, the squat and thick lips of the Mongolian race, but
complexion
Sarawak.
is fairer
They
heads when
amongst the American Indians inhabiting the Mosquito River. I have been told that the religion of the Milanoes resembles that of the Cochin Chinese, and this fact reminds me of the opinion expressed by Mr. Wallace as to these people originally coming to Borneo from the north. Milanoes are
not so refined in their diet as are the Sea Dyaks.
For
instance,
oysters as
we
them
living things.
Milanoes prefer to eat uncooked fish cut up very fine, and are very fond of grubs they also eat monkeys, sharks, snakes, and other reptiles. A great delicacy
;
with them
is
They soak a
its
large raft
made
it is
of soft
wood
to
supposed
have
SARAWAK AND
After leaving Muka,
ITS
PEOPLE
139
River,
its
is
and about
mouth.
thirty-six hours'
steaming brought us to
reputation
its
;
This
river
has
it
mouth
The
we embarked
trip.
in the
Borneo Company's
is
vessel, called
The
scenery
very different in
this
more
we saw
great plains of
was ticklish work proceeding up this river, there being no chart, for we were the only white people who had as yet entered its inhospitable borders in a vessel of any size. Mr. de Crespigny, who had been an officer in the English Navy, undertook to make a chart, and sat on the bridge the whole day, paper and pencil in hand, as we steamed carefully by snags and sandbanks, under the direction of a Kayan, who had been induced to leave his canoe at the mouth of the river to pilot our vessel to a
It
As we
was very
and we
all
at the people to
we were
peaceful visitors.
did
not like to
I40
SARAWAK AND
ITS
it
PEOPLE
did occur to
me
at
did.
think
it
Gading (meaning rock of ivory, so called from a white rock embedded in the bank, shining like a beacon up one of the reaches of the river). Batu Gading was then the most populous Kayan settlement up this waterway, and it was here that the
settlement of Batu
Rajah intended
longest
to land.
I
We anchored
had yet come
in front of the
Kayan house
across, but
we
life
in the village.
The Rajah
Abang
a ban,
(under
and that the people of the village could not allow us to land because, under the circumstances, it was impossible for them to
receive visitors.
The
came
to the conclusion
were
in the village
sent
day, the
Rajah made
it
understood that
SARAWAK AND
last
ITS
PEOPLE
also,
141
that he
and
all
chief in spite of
pamales.
futility
At
of
and one morning Abang Nipa's son, accompanied by four or five stalwart Kayans, was seen on his way to our steamer. They brought with them an invitation
to the
chief,
visit,
afternoon.
I
not.
The
Rajah and Mr. de Crespigny, who knew the working of primitive people's minds better perhaps than any
Europeans
if I
alive,
thought
it
went
I
also.
remember the visit as though it were yesterday. A dinghy was prepared, and the Rajah, Mr. de Crespigny, the Borneo Company's agent, the English officers who had escorted the Rajah (my brother being amongst them), and I, entered the boat and were rowed to shore. The Rajah was followed by
four or five of his guard, carrying muskets, but as
Kayans' backs up, and perhaps make them dangerous." As the guards disappeared, I wondered how it would
be, but
I
was not
seriously apprehensive.
this
142
house.
SARAWAK AND
As
usual, the
ITS
PEOPLE
built
house was
on
stilts,
I
but
had
an angle of one
in ten for
about forty
was no use worrying up this ladder I had The Rajah hopped up it like a bird. The to go. chiefs son and two or three other Kayans, seeing my hesitation, came forward and helped me up the must say, my helpers were most perilous way. I gentle and charming, and they took me up as though The other Europeans I were as brittle as egg shells. found it quite easy to mount this interminable present pole. I dare say it was my petticoats that made my ascent difficult, for women's clothes are much in the The entrance into the way on such occasions. broad verandah was a wonderful sight. All the way down, as far as I could see, it was lined with
It
their
war
dress, tattooed
from head to
We
walked as far as the centre of the house, where the chiefs apartments were situated. There we found two
stools,
calico,
and
fine
mats
laid
on the
interior
The
to
was divided by
stuffs
made
of mats or
of
Kayan
of wonderful
designs,, similar
Celtic
red.
SARAWAK AND
little
ITS
PEOPLE
143
Englishmen took their places on the floor. We were quite silent, and the presence of two of the Sultan's emissaries moving in and out of the crowd, whispering to the people, did
stools, whilst the other
not look
mission.
very promising
for
the
success
of our
The Rajah pulled his moustache, but said nothing, and we sat on, all silent, looking at one another. At last Mr. de Crespigny said to me "There are no women or children here. We must
get them in."
I
believe
it
is
women
and children is one of the signs of intended treachery. Mr. de Crespigny suggested I should ask the chief if I might make the acquaintance of his wife and the I turned to the chief and other women of the tribe. Malay, which our interpreter asked the question in
translated into
Kayan.
The
made a sign to one of the men standing near him, who at once disappeared behind the curtains. In a few moments the man came back and held the
curtains aside, when, through the opening,
came a
procession of
chief's
wife,
women.
It
was a pretty
sight.
The
Her
of
straw.
Her garment
fillet
in folds
from the waist to her right ankle, leaving her left side bare, excepting at the hips, where it was
144
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
Her
left
arm and
leg
were encased
in sheaths of
All the
women
following her,
young and
costume.
selves in a group at
my
feet.
The
and
followed as to the
number of
their children,
I
how
their
etc.,
then asked to
some
After
these
quite friendly.
My
became up to see
whether
my
the
I
way
up.
From
cannot be certain
had round
my
was suspended a red coral charm, much amongst Neapolitans to ward against the
Mr. de Crespigny suggested
the chiefs wife, and
off
I
vogue
evil eye.
at
my
it
round
remember how
it
the
little
lay against
appeared
as
it
extraordinarily
yet
picturesque,
hung amongst the folds of her white cotton She was delighted with the ornament, and when we parted the Rajah and the people I had become good friends. said good-bye to the
garment.
chief's
wife,
and experienced
strange
pang of
SARAWAK AND
regret,
ITS
PEOPLE
parting,
145
as
always
a
did
when
perhaps
after a
made
member
of a tribe
whom
might
these
far-off countries.
good
Baram
for
good
over a
tribe
of
some
thirty
acknowledged her as
the
their
Queen. whole
She
tribe,
undertook
management
of
the
and
until the
To make
to
Rajah's visit
the
great results.
The
will of the
Forts and
by magic
Mr. de
along
its
banks, and
it
is
now one
of the richest
rivers of the
first
country.
of the
Rajah's officers to
district,
Hose
de
later,
at Mr.
most
unselfishly
at his
146
post,
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
and by so doing gave additional impetus to the trade and commerce of Sarawak, and security Dr. Hose became his to the life of its inhabitants. worthy successor, and by his zeal, hard work, and sympathy with the natives has managed to crown Mr. de Crespigny's work by the magnificent
true
.
results
he has achieved
people.
in the
true civilization of
the
Baram
On
for
we
stayed
The
dress of the
women
Kuching Malays, as regards the texture of their sarongs and jackets, and as regards their gold ornaments. These people appear to prefer sombre tints to the bright colours worn by their Kuching sisters. A sarong much favoured by the Bintulu
women
the
is
made
of cotton
over
in Javanese,
This
is
cotton material
costly to
so
fine
in texture that
it
as
silken brocades.
The
Bintulu
women manage
it
to obtain a
gloss on
the material
making
One
has to
Over
women wear
imported
satin,
with three huge knobs of gold, and small gold knobs are sewn all up the slashed sleeves. Large round ear-rings, someIt
from China.
fastens
in
front
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
shaped
like
147
open
Their
devoid of
Some-
much
two women can walk near one another. They are made of straw, conical in shape, and are ornamented with huge pointed rays of red, black, and yellow,
meeting towards
the
centre.
Mr.
de
Crespigny,
who knew
told
me
wound
and
their
it
way up
the
Fort,
was indeed a curious sight to see two or three hundred of these discs, one after the other, apparently unsupported, winding slowly up the steep ascent.
When
hats
the
women
I
left
their
somewhere
before
They
of Bintulu, with their square, pale faces and quantities of jet-black hair.
They belong
of
to the
same
tribe as the
sago workers
Muka,
but,
owing
is
to their
their
complexion
paler.
well have
their
many
superstitions
and
incantations,
when
148
SARAWAK AND
On
ITS
PEOPLE
few
Kayans from
we
were promised some new and original performances. A large space was cleared in the middle of the
reception-room,
dividual, a
when a
small,
rather
cat,
plump
inin,
Kayan, active as a
was ushered
bounded from one side of the space to the other, jumping with the most wonderful agility, spinning round on one leg, and screaming out his war-cry. His parang, in his rapid movements, became multiplied and appeared like flashes of lightning. Once or twice he came so near to where we were
sitting
that
fancied
I
a draught
over
but,
my
head.
said nothing
and
sat
on unmoved,
three
feet, hall.
it ?
Kayans squatting on the floor sprang to their and taking hold of the man, led him out of the
The Rajah
he
said.
"
What
?
is
"
"
taken away
"
We
become so excited in his dancing, that he had actually swept the head off one of his interested spectators. The three Kayans who had taken hold of the dancer had witnessed the gruesome scene, and they realized that on this
SARAWAK AND
occasion
ITS
PEOPLE
149
he
was
becoming
over-excited.
Other
dances
frenzied
followed,
some sedate and slow, others and untamed. The evening ended very
and
at a
pleasantly,
somewhat late hour the Rajah dismissed his guests and we retired to bed. I thought a good deal about the little dancing man, and came to the conclusion that he must have been
an
artist in his
way
CHAPTER
XVII
arrival of
ONE
I
morning, as
my verandah at Kuching,
after,
standing on deck.
few moments
from
brought
me
to
letter
Singapore
Governor's
traveller
wife,
Lady
Jervois,
introducing
North.
had heard so much, but had not had the Miss North's arrival in pleasure of meeting.
whom
Sarawak
is
my
life.
Many
and
I
of
my
with me.
was delighted at the idea of her coming to stay I watched our small river-boat fetching
She
was not
delightful.
young
then,
but
thought
she
looked
We shook
:
first
words she
me were " How do you know if you will like me well enough to ask me to stay with From that moment began a friendship you?" which lasted until her death. Many people know
said to
the great
work
of her
life,
'J
o
<
o
W H O g w
o g H H H
2;
SARAWAK AND
gallery
ITS
PEOPLE
she gave to
151
of her
pictures
which
Kew
Gardens.
Many
first
Sarawak,
The
went
for a
row on the
said,
perfumed
air
and miles of
sat
forest
by the night
in the
an
Sometimes as we
forest
on our verandah
sweet,
strange perfume
wafted from
river, floated
The
scent of
unknown
flowers,"
say.
many
morning
had never seen or even heard of. In the would take my work into Miss North's
sit
room and
loved
her companionship.
stern
it was who first made me and delight found in trees, and flowers. But sometimes she was very She would she thought me young and stupid.
She
look at
me
must say. " Why, you know nothing," she said, "although you are so late from school! " She once asked me where pitcher-plants were to be found.
52
SARAWAK AND
I
ITS
I
PEOPLE
" Pitcher-plants,"
said
"
them.
"
But
replied,
"and
I
if
you
like
we
will try
and
I
together."
them remember
find
She
me how I could describe pitcher-plants to the faithful Kong Kong, one of our boat-boys, a Sarawak
Malay, an odd and uncouth individual, with long
hair flowing over his shoulders.
Kong,
I
"
marshy.
One> morning
as our
Kong Kong
the
went
for
in
We
walked
little
way along
where the
the ground.
delighted me.
That curse
I
of
agriculturists
always
felt
with
We
two
after our
call
it
passage
it
resumed
plant.
its
normal shape.
Malays
laid tg
Kong Kong
then led
keep passers-by
off
Our progress
was not an
SARAWAK AND
easy matter.
ITS
PEOPLE
trees,
153
We
suddenly, in a clearing,
we came
to the spot.
and I do
growing
in the
who has only seen pitcher-plants sedate way they do at Kew can have
beautiful
when
madness of their growth Here they were, cups long, round, wide, and narrow, some shaped like Etruscan
in a wild state.
vases,
others
like
small earthenware
cooking-pots,
Their colour,
green
yellow,
too,
was
perfectly
exquisite
rose,
pale
ground,
splashed
over
with
carmine,
and brown, the little" lids to the cups daintily poised just above each pitcher. I suppose there must have been thousands of these plants, twisting, creeping, and flinging themselves over dead trunks
of trees,
falling
in
cascades of
colour
above our
stood
still,
We
length
all
at
them.
"
!
At
Miss North
remarked
"
And you
no
six weeks,
and when
felt
for she
new and delightful had come into my had not only introduced me to pitcherto orchids,
plants,
but
palms,
I
ferns,
and
many
realize
me
and
kind,
She was noble, intelligent, and her friendship and the time we spent
"
154
SARAWAK AND
my
to
ITS
PEOPLE
used
for her,
She paint all day, and, thinking this must be bad I sometimes tried to get her away early in
happiest memories.
never
paint-
made
me.
She
sat
on a
palrfts
The
world grew
and the
in
black against the sky as she put her last stroke into
the picture.
me
to the
when
quite
cannot
with
she
said.
"
am drunk
She did not approve of the view I took of our Dyak and Kayan people. She liked to meet Malay ladies, because, as we all know,
they have better manners than most Europeans, but
Dyaks
or
Kayans.
idea that
they
were savages.
Don't
me
"I hate
SARAWAK AND
them."
" "
ITS
PEOPLE
I
iSS
reply.
would
circumstances have
take heads
:
"
They
that
is
would add severely, and would no defence for that curious custom of theirs,
I
for
which
could find so
many
excuses.
Missing Page
iS8
SARAWAK AND
our best silks and
ITS
in
PEOPLE
the evening.
Clad
satins,
and
stiff
with gold
brocade,
we
sat together in
my
private
room with
in
flowers, perfumes,
and such-like
things.
could not
follow
ladies
these
stories
Sometimes the voice was low, sometimes very shrill, and when embarrassed for a word, they trilled and quavered, remaining on a very high note until they remembered how the story went, when they gleefully descended the scale, began again, and poured forth further torrents of words.
sang every word.
Sometimes they paused, walked rapidly across the " She is full room, and spat through the window. of understanding," Datu Isa would say after one of " She knows her these journeys to the window. work!" "Her words come from ancient times!"
" It
is
beautiful
exceedingly
"
Meanwhile,
the
left
reciter,
when
all.
the
same
Isa
ejaculatioi>s of
Datu
and her
room,
I
satellites
were
sitting*^
talking to
all
me
in
my
suggested that
we should
is
learn to read
written in Arabic
SARAWAK AND
characters.
I I
ITS
PEOPLE
159
set
to work,
for
would be good
for
the
Malay women and myself to be able to read and " No," said Datu Isa write Malay for ourselves. " that would never do. Writing amongst women is a bad habit, a pernicious custom. Malay girls would be writing love letters to clandestine lovers, and undesirable men might come into contact with the
daughters of our house.
I I
hope
will
never come
was a tremendous force in our social life in I was not altogether dismayed, and being anxious for this additional pleasure to come
Isa
Kuching, but
into
my
friends' lives,
good many months went by before I could Meanwhile I put my suggestion into execution. began to study on my own account, and sent for Inchi Sawal, a celebrity in the Kuching circles of
those days.
arts).
He was
called a
"Guru"
(master of
scholar,
He knew
Malay
arid
had taught a great many of the Rajah's ofificers Formerly he had in the intricacies of the language. been Malay writer to the late Rajah. Malay is easy enough to talk ungrammatically, and one can make oneself understood by stringing together nouns and
adjectives, regardless of verbs, prepositions, etc.
The
by
in
ear,
it
was deplorable,
those' days,
i6o
SARAWAK AND
in
is
ITS
PEOPLE
The
Rajah,
in
Kuching.
best
however,
one
it
of the
Malay
scholars
Malaya, and
is
was a great stickler for grammar. He was a Sumatran Malay, and his face was rounder, his features rather thicker and his complexion darker
Inchi Sawal
He
was, of course, a
Malay chiefs of Kuching, by whom he was looked upon as a cultured man in fact, they considered him the arbiter of Malay literature. He was a butcher, and knew exactly what was required in the killing of bullocks for Muhammadan consumption. He was a wonderful confectioner, and made delicious preserves with little half-ripe oranges growing in orchards round Malay houses in the town. He sent me some of this preserve as a present for New Year's Day, and as I liked it so much, I wanted to know how Accordingly, Inchi Sawal came to the it was made. Astana to give me a lesson. It would take too long to tell of the methods he employed in the preparation of the fruit, but it seemed to me that a good deal of religion was mixed up with the cooking of those small, bobbing green balls, as they simmered in the A number of invocations to Allah boiling syrup. secured a good result to his labours. Inchi Sawal had
a different appearance during each of his occupations.
SARAWAK AND
When
seemed de rigueur as he
ITS
PEOPLE
religious
i6i
aspect
When
sanguinary
foe.
At
lessons he
became urbane,
Sawal brought
courtier-like,
and mild.
When
made from
not
Malaya,
pupil.
am
did
prove
very apt
I
My
tutor
I
said
after him.
found
in
giving
(aing),
an
adequate
letter
Europeans to pronounce.
characters with him, and
it
whenever
properly.
"
is
let
"The
to look at a
word
to its
sound.
it
when you
have mastered
comfort."
will
One morning
usual.
"
I
Inchi Sawal
our lessons," he
will
many
cloths, and, if
you do not
its
object,
we
will
leaves.
We
62
of the
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
Koran before we begin our Malay lessons, which will put us in the proper frame of mind for the things we have to learn. The Datu Imaum also
little
approves of
write,
as
he thinks
it
women
hearts."
to
improve
their
Very gravely he unfolded the wrappings in which the Koran lay, and reverently handled the pages of this marvellous book of wisdom, as we read together
the
first
chapter
" Praise
all
creatures
the
most
day of judgment.
Thee
assistance.
way of
those to
whom whom
astray.
..."
time went on and Datu Isa found
could read
As
and write Malay, she relented so far as to allow her married daughters and daughters-in-law to join me
in
my
studies.
We
lessons,
Isa's
and, after
some
time,
She commenced
to
the
first
me
in
my efforts
SARAWAK AND
ing a school for
ITS
PEOPLE
boys.
163
In a short
time the pupils were too numerous for the size of her
house, and the Rajah, being interested in this
new
women of Kuching,
where Malay reading and writing were taught, and installed Inchi Sawal as master.^
had
considerable proportions,
immense
Dyak
As the country developed, the Muhammadans (Malays) also longed for educational facilities on their own
lines,
was taught.
Writing of these educational matters
recalls
many
/
happy hours
and buried
Muhammadan
cemetery
little
procession
of
boats,
in
which
place,
1
his
where
This school became known as Abang Kasim's school, and now has
a large attendance.
64
Faith
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
three
feet
the
deep,
that
to
shallow
followers
grave about
of
allotted
the
Faithful,
from
at the
bidding of the
Angel
in
Azrail,
bosom
of
Allah
the
Merciful,
Com-
passionate.
river,
Another Malay school, on the opposite side of the was founded by Inchi Bakar, the son of old
Sumatran Malay.
Inchi
them
He
is,
perhaps,
Inchi
Sawal.
The
profession
I
of butcher
fell
into
is
an
little
oranges of which
was so
He
is,
house
is
Malays of Kuching.
culture,
for
he reads and writes English as well as most He was partial to Chinese society, for Englishmen.
amongst the Chinese merchants of Kuching are to be Many a found enlightened and cultured gentlemen.
time
I
have
sat
of cymbals.
o
o
P
H
<
O w
p <
o
2;
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
165
was no scenery beyond curtains of scarlet and gold, on which were embroidered rampant dragons, we could
understand the intricacies of the drama
better, perhaps,
from the
fact that so
much was
left to
our imagination.
Chinese players often came to Sarawak, and are now permanently established in the Chinese Bazaar, but
as
it
is
women
to mingle
were acted
am happy
I
Bakar
is still living,
I
and
Although he and
as strong as
may
was
in the
lad visiting
me
at the
Astana with
mother and
does
grandmother.
Malays
from that
fact,
sort of home-sickness
feel as
though
I
She was a relation of Datu Isa, and she and Daiang Sahada were friends. to draw special attejition to the part I should like played by these two Malay ladies in the education of the women in Kuching, who were much impressed by their kind interest and sympathy. Those were
in
all,
letters
66
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
calli-
graphic perfection.
After what
we
considered our
recreation
hours of hard
work,
necessary, so that
was on most days, as it got cooler and sink behind Matang, we would go
in order to " eat the air," as in
we thought
Astana garden
they said.
Those walks
the
delight to them.
They loved
which grew
the
honeysuckle,
tuberoses^
in
and
many
other
tropical plants
mown
They
often asked
methods of picking the flowers were so refined, gentle, and economical, that they might pick as many as
they liked without any devastation being noticeable
in the
with water.
They used
water
in
to
our drawing-room.
They
are
so high
up,"
Besides
I
it
destroys
So
that in
my
rooms
my
friends.
ideas,
we could we must
in
it
free ourselves
realize
it
is
imagine that
order to
make a room
beautiful
we
must dec6rate
SARAWAK AND
I
ITS
PEOPLE
taste
in
167
think
Malays have
much
better
such
matters, because
last just as
as
sweet and
Our evening
strolls
Here we
just
Beyond
and miles of forest land stretching to the north between Kuching and the sea, the mountain of Santubong could be seen from our garden towering on the horizon. Viewed from Kuching, the outline
the miles
of the mountain as
it
lies
appearance of a human
profile,
first
Sarawak.
the
The Malays
and
women have
frequently said to
"
me
Another source of joy on these occasions was the presence of a peahen we kept roaming about at
liberty in our garden.
pattering
the
for
women
some
stand.
more than the bird could The appearance of my Malay friends was the
mysterious reason,
for
it
signal
to single
68
SARAWAK AND
it
ITS
PEOPLE
and follow
victim,
member, when
would rush
at her toes
The
move
quicker than
is
customary amongst
Malay
Sometimes the bird got so violent in its attacks, that I had to call the sentry on guard at the door of the Astana. The sentry (either a Malay or
aristocrats.
musket
until
in hand,
first
to protect the
woman from
whereupon
thither in his
much merriment.
and
my Malay
"
!
friends called
I
peahen
think
I
was glad
wore shoes,
do not
much
as they did.
Sometimes the party stayed until 6 p.m., when, on fine evenings, more punctual than any
clock,
we heard a
shrill
believe
this
came from a kind of cricket. "It is the fly telling us to go home," they said, and,
sound of
to their
this musical alarum,
six o'clock
at the
first
my
friends
bade
me
homes.
often watched
SARAWAK AND
tinted
ITS
PEOPLE
how absurd
it is
169
that
by the
be a bar to friendship
between white and dark people, seeing that kindness and sympathy are not confined to any region of
the earth, or to any race of men.
CHAPTER XIX
MALAY
age,
and Datu
many
more
years apparently
to
endeared her
generation at Kuching.
the younger
and
I,
were delighted
about her early life, and also about the superstitions and legends of her country. Her conversation was
always
interesting,
and
wish
could
give an
when
When
Malay women of Kuching, had been liberated from captivity by the menacing guns of James Brooke's yacht, turned on to the Palace of her captor. Rajah Muda Hassim, who had intended to carry her off
to
This personal
The
was the one which perhaps thrilled us most. Malays almost sing as they talk, and their voices quaver, become loud or soft, or die off in a whisper, the words being interspersed with funny
nasal noises, together with frowns, sighs, or smiles.
little
When
became
SARAWAK AND
she on her story.
ITS
PEOPLE
us,
171
so intent
was
a
This
is
Pontianak.
the
father
When
a
baby under
is
about
be
of
born,
his
walking
the
flooring
house
hears
low
He
woman
looking at him.
Her
face
is is
like
like
is
white,
She
wears
sarong
round her
and other
ingredients,
smoke of which keeps evil spirits away, the woman stands there for some moments without
sound.
uttering a
husband
spell
is
so frightened
to
he can think of no
After
by which
flies
combat her
evil intentions.
rise
and as she
behind her
when he
sees between
her shoulder blades the large gaping wound, signifying that she
there
is is
a Pontianak.
for the
no hope
woman
Pontianak
houses.
As Datu
all
Isa finished
the
Pontianak
story,
we
The
"
172
SARAWAK AND
interest,
:
ITS
PEOPLE
our
superstitions
and went on telling us many other Unless you cover the heads of sleep-
come
close to
You
and when walking out with them you must take these instruments with you, until your babies can walk alone. Then turning to me, Datu Isa would say "I hope you will never see the sun set under the fragment
:
of a rainbow.
Rajah Ranee,
for
that
is
a certain
although
rainbows
if
When my children
garden, and a rainthe heads off the
bow
more
we pluck
: '
children's heads,
and say
out
to
King
in
of the Sky,
we have come
clothes.'
It
is
meet you
lie
our
finest
on
its
face
and
kick up
mother
will
fall
sick.
When
woman
expects a
must her husband cut his hair or his nails. During this time a guest must not be entertained for one they must stay two. When a woman night only
;
dies in
childbirth,
alim
"
(a
SARAWAK AND
good
spirit),
ITS
PEOPLE
173
and
all
Datu
Isa
had great
kind of
faith in
possessed,
made
of a
on the
Sarawak
coast,
should take
in this
It
was given me
way
some
During the
first
years of
my
way misbehaved
afterwards,
I
himself, was dismissed. Shortly met the old man in a state of great
felt
asked
him another
The Rajah
in
garden
in his
the Astana
often
used to
;
he
would
sit
on
and take
some minutes'
soul,
after
his reinstalment
amongst
brought
It
me
a bangle
made
I
had
over
my
man
put
make
more
elastic,
and, after
some
little
trouble,
it
my
hand,
harm
174
SARAWAK AND
wrist, but should
!
ITS
it
PEOPLE
ever break,
is
it
round your
now, and
would
wrist
it,
"
The
bangle
on
my
dread
it
lest
for should
should
feel just as
my Malay
Sarawak use somewhat disconcerting methods to frighten away evil spirits on the occasion of very bad storms. After a frightful gale, accompanied by incessant lightning and thunder, that occurred in Kuching, two or three owners of plantations in the suburbs of the town came to the Rajah and complained that some of their Malay neighbours had cut down all their fruit trees during the hurricane,
in
Nowa-
own
believe
they are
I
now a
must
tell
one
more
curious
I
belief
existing
amongst Malays.
Just before
left for
England, a
out-stations brought
me
fruit
a cocoa-nut, very
much
I
of the Archipelago,
believe these
huge cocoa-
The woman
brought
its
possessor; at the
SARAWAK AND
same time assuring me
asked her to
that, as
is
tell
it
ITS
PEOPLE
175
me
its
a place called
"The
spot,
a tree
as
on which
Pau Jinggeh. The dragons feed on the fruit, and when they have partaken too freely of it, have fits of indigestion, causing them to be sea-sick thus the fruit finds its way into the ocean, and is borne by the current into These enormous nuts are all parts of the world. occasionally met with by passing vessels, and in this manner some are brought to the different settlements in the Malayan Archipelago. The fruit brought for my acceptance had been given to the woman by a captain of a Malay schooner, who had rescued it as it was bobbing up and down in the water under the keel of " I thought you would like to have it, his boat.
these large cocoa-nuts grow,
;
known
Rajah
bought
Ranee," she
for love
said,
" because
it
cannot be
occupies
nor money."
The
fruit
now
and
is
With our
we
many
of us, do not
magpie,
we
ladder, or
;
a room where
and how about people one meets who assure us they have heard the scream
three candles are burning
i;6
SARAWAK AND
Putting
all
ITS
PEOPLE
human
do not
being?
think either
superstition
superior culture
CHAPTER XX
DURING
to
my
residence
ia
Sarawak,
advent
is
any who have nervous temperaments, its alarming. On one of its visitations, some
Chinese residing
in
Kuching.
much
rife
as possible, the
Rajah and
atmosphere was impregnated with the smell of incense and joss-sticks, set burning by the Chinese in order
to mitigate the plague.
Many
to
their dollars
and cents
a sop
make
The junk
was placed on wheels and dragged for three miles down a bad road to a place called Finding, where it was launched on the waters of the river, to be borne by the tide it was hoped to the sea. The procession accompanying this vessel was extremely Great banners, scarlet, green, and blue. picturesque.
178
SARAWAK AND
carried
ITS
PEOPLE
etc.,
by Chinamen, and
the
clashing of
frightful noise.
Nor was
I
height.
One
morning, after
off
my
I
pony
at the
river,
saw
the
in the distance
along
road,
shouting,
aloft.
cymbals,
and
bearing
something
This
"something," on
coming
man
seated on a
formed entirely
His
head
from side to
thought
mad or in a ^t, but one of our Syces told me the man was trying to allay the cholera. The mob following him was screeching, yelling, boundhe must be
ing about, beating gongs, and making a
terrific noise.
As
it
stood,
no one
thing in
crowd took notice of anybody or anytheir way. The procession went round the
man Our
in the chair
was apparently immune from wounds. English doctor subsequently examined the chair,
for himself the sharpness of its
man
could
pieces.
SARAWAK AND
evening during the
effect of increasing
first
ITS
PEOPLE
179
was
more
intelligent
The Rajah
Rajah and
there-
be suppressed.
I
The
were
day
still
nothing at
Chinamen than hitherto. The Rajah said the time, but when we reached the Palace
he sent a force of police under an English officer to arrest the sword-chair man and imprison him. The
following morning, before daylight, a band of China-
men
somehow managed to
liber-
The
if
and\
the
man was
and them down over their heads. It was an excitng time. I remember seeing the Aline heave anchor and slowly take its position immediately in front of
batter
the Bazaar.
of
At
evening a deputation
Chinamen asked
"The man
is
i8o
SARAWAK AND
in gaol,"
ITS
will
PEOPLE
not trouble the town
back
they said
"
he
any more."
The Rajah
and
realized again, as in so
many
The man
who was
was subsequently
to
in
any
straits or
when about
enterprise,
is
commercial
to -lay
down
burning
two or three
barefooted.
scathed, which
walk
am
given to understand
enterprise
is
is
nearly
always the
result,
the
considered a
favourable one.
in
down
the
fiery
path unscathed.
The
it
pepper and
that these
fire
One
how
is
people's bare
and
to sharp instruments.
The outbreak
entirely to the
itself
Chinese quarter.
began picking
of
Kampong
also
my
Datu
Isa
and her
relations,
suffered
SARAWAK AND
severely.
ITS
PEOPLE
i8i
Every morning, notwithstanding, my Malay friends found their way to the Astana, and during one of these visits, whilst we were talking quite happily and
trying to keep our minds free from the all-absorbing
topic of the sickness that
mourning to so many houses in saw the Datu Tumanggong's wife, a buxom lady of forty years, fat and jolly in appear-
and
bringing
I
Kuching,
" Wallahi,
I is
vexy
ill.
"
Good heavens
Datu
"
!
thought, she
had recourse
to
heroic
some hot
and chlorodyne.
spirit
dose of the
Muhamfilled
mixed with
it
and
and she
She was trembling and demur for one instant, and frightened, but did not swallowed the draught, making an extraordinary gulp She gave me back the tumbler, and in her throat. immediately sank back on the floor and lay inanimate on the rugs in my room. For one moment I thought killed her, and looked at Datu Isa and my I had
would
feel
all
right.
how
it.
"
You
will
I
have cured her, Rajah Ranee," they said. go home and leave her to finish her
"
We
sleep."
82
SARAWAK AND
feel
ITS
PEOPLE
I
pretended to
no anxiety, although
must say
to
we two stayed in the room await developments. The lady lay like a log, and
I
fast.
saw
sat
again.
"
You do
understand.
You
white
people
have
I
know."
Personally,
was not so sure, but I was delighted when I realized she was none the worse, and saw her escorted down the path to her boat by Ima and the boat-boys. Her attack and my remedy did not appear to do her any harm, for, from that day, she always came to me for help in any ailment. The Rajah was called away from Kuching during the epidemic, and I was alone with the children at
the Astana.
very
well,
knew
and
sat
of
life
as on that
About eleven
o'clock
we shook
That same
was
getting up after
my
afternoon nap,
Talip came to
my room and
I
Mohammed's
garden.
some
I
" Certainly,"
" tell
them
"
to
pick
But
did not
know Datu
Mohammed was
He is
not,"
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
183
for
Malays, whenever
suppose, to
mask
their
feelings.
The
ings,
elicit
sighs
and
relations.
Some
to
in
combat the
Kampong
life,
Grisek, called
her rigorous
all,
and above
her
achieved
Mecca.
brought with
rosary,
from
Mecca
Muhammadan
was made great use of in cases of The rosary was placed in a illness in Kuching. tumbler of cold water over night, and the liquid
and
this
Daiang Kho informed me that the cures performed by the rosary were wonderful, but, as we all know, in some cases mind triumphs over the body, and I was not therefore surprised at hearing that this innocuous drink had sometimes been successful in curing sufferers when attacked by the first symptoms of disease.
used as medicine,
CHAPTER XXI
my one DURING son Harry was youngest
of
visits to
England our
born.
He
is
called
Tuan Bungsu
title
Sarawak.
As
it
growing up,
became incumbent on me, for obvious reasons, to spend more time away from our country. I had to make my home in England, on account of the education of our sons, but, whenever possible, I hurried over to pay visits to what is, after all, my
own
of
land.
life
think
my
me
to Sarawak.
We
Bertram and
Malay friends, and it did not take us long to pick up again the threads of our life in Sarawak. I
should like to give an account of some journeys
took
I
to
some
of the
out-
For
instance,
district
the
Rejang
was anxious we should together, and the Rajah, gave us his yacht for our
184
SARAWAK AND
*
ITS
PEOPLE
185
by our great
Government in the Rajah's absence, and Dr. Langmore, who had come with us from Europe, for a round of visits to our Dyak and Kayan friends.
ministering the
We
built
requiring
change of
is
to the sea.
The
a kindly, well-educated
is
by Europeans and
settlements in
Ahmad
may
occupy the
office
into,
and
As
and
think
have remarked
Kuching.
before, the
more
of the
serious
Rajah
When we
Heidji
we found
female
Ahmad's
aunts,
and
us.
Hadji
Ahmad
stay,
show us a good
day's sport.
He
offered to erect
a fishing-shed for
us,
86
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
bank of sand which at low tide lies uncovered for When the hut was miles on the Santubong shore.
built,
shore,
Hadji
Ahmad
long,
in the expedition.
We
narrow canoe,
ladies
The Malay
and as
us
I
had taken
the
overboard
in
their
tender
attempts
to
settle
me down
the
Hadji
Ahmad's wife was a buxom dame of thirty years. She and her five companions talked incessantly, and one of the elder women kept us amused and the Malay women in a perpetual giggle, at the manner in which she chaffed her brother, who was She was most personal in her our helmsman.
remarks, drawing attention to his swarthy complexion,
his
men
witticisms good-humouredly.
The
It
standing on
in
risen tide.
beautiful blossom
all
kinds of
draperies
village)
We
some
SARAWAK AND
and glistened
in the
ITS
PEOPLE
187
salvo
we
entered the
my
female escort,
who
The
number, took
it
The construction of these sheds was very ingenious. They were erected upon a series
over the
sea.
the
shape of a boat's
keel.
number
levers,
swung
twenty feet
came in, the excitement of the party grew intense, and the fishermen sang a dirge-like melody, inviting the fish into the net, telling them the Rajah's wife and son were expecting their arrival, and that, therefore, it would only be good manners and loyalty on their part to pay their respects by being caught and eaten by them When sufficient time had elapsed, according to Hadji Ahmad's idea, for the net to be full of fish, the fishermen hung on to the poles
the tide
[
As
at the
back of the
hut,
their
fish
were
two
or
three
88
SARAWAK AND
;
ITS
PEOPLE
their poisonous
stings
these,
when
we went back
to
the
house for
tea,
and started
off again
in the cool of
where
lies
the figure of a
woman
is
carved.
On
this occasion,
we
travelled
in
make
their
in
way through
abounds
Bertram took
his
in
so.
Langmore and
I,
way
when Hadji Ahmad we were drifting in quite the wrong direction. " But why did you not say so ? " "We could not set the I said to Hadji Ahmad.
we were on
the right track,
that
informed
us
we not inquired the way, I suppose we might even now be wandering about the maze of water, with Bertram at the helm. The
replied.
Therefore, had
and Bertram was as amused as we were at the extreme politeness of our Malay entourage. At length the stone was reached, and it was indeed a curious object. One
Hadji
soon
put us right,
had
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
189
down by
pottery have
been
found
mud,
rolled
down from
the mountain.
Experts who
have visited
number of people once lived here, and, owing to some unknown cause, deserted the spot. Amongst some
of the debris, the
com-
of
Santubong.
The
sandstone
boulder
with
its
was only discovered during quite late years by a gardener who was clearing the soil in preparaeffigy
We
mud and
on
It
fallen trees.
raised
figure.
trestles,
led us
rests
under a
weather.
The
carved figure
is
about
life-size,
and
apparently represents a
stone
is
Lower down, on
and
I
dis-
I90
position.
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
on
its
A
is
upper
bar,
The
Hadji
Ahmad
told
me
to to
that the
figure to
The
I
people of Sarawak,
in contact,
whom
have come
laughing at animals
is liable
to
be
all
met with
race,
in
the beds of
They
call
Kudi
(the stones
of curses),
but
how
root
and
became so
minds of Sarawak
me
greatly.
There
is
no one nowadays
in
Kuching capable of fashioning such a thing. over, the tops of carved pillars, and other
beds, so that
I
Morefretted
When
SARAWAK AND
hands lay buried
leaves,
literated
ITS
PEOPLE
under
its
191
for centuries,
shroud of
the works of humanity for a long while, one can almost be certain that Santubong and its
only wish
it.
Musing over
the
of in-
numerable generations of
altars
trees,
Then
"
happens,
when
and the trace of their existence is blotted out by leaves. Those great forests of the tropics must hold many secrets, and when stay*
sion of their deserted homes,
its
mystery weighed
on me, and I longed to know the fate of those who had gone before. For reasons such as these, it is a pity
that
into
touch
with
should
do
all
on the
Hadji
yarns
I
they
them.
Ahmad was
methods
was anxious to know what was thought by the Santubong people about this stone. The Hadji said some obvious things, but when I
affected him.
192
SARAWAK AND
afraid
ITS
PEOPLE
was
Englishmen
;
in
of telHng Hes
therefore
me not to do so, for he Sarawak might accuse him he preferred to keep what he
I
cannot repeat
such criticisms
made by Europeans
amongst
whom
they
must recount a
my
Santubong
to
the
It
evening before
departure
the
Rejang.
was a
The murmur
sound
to
branches
night.
on the verandah,
my Malay
friend said
"If you
like
go out by
yourself,
you
will
hear
voices
of
unknown people telling you the secrets of the earth." I wish now I had gone out and listened, for I am foolish enough to believe that the secrets told by
those
musical
branches
might
have
been worth
and,
above
I
all,
of the criticisms of
I
friends,
refrained.
I
clusion that
have
lost
experience which
"
I
may never
SARAWAK AND
Would Rajah Ranee as we stood looking
replied
;
ITS
hear
PEOPLE
it ?
193
like to
" said
my
friend,
at the mountain.
"
"
was Hassan,
mountain.
lived
in
He
was a
Haji, for he
had been
to
Mecca,
and wore a green turban and long flowing robes. He read the Koran day and night, his prayers were
incessant,
his lips.
His soul was white and exceedingly clean, and whenever he cut himself with his parang whilst hewing
down
the trees to
make
He
occasionally
Kuching,
the
home by
He
of
the
Spirit
Santubong
its
and the
from thence had watched him admiringly on account One day she flew down into of his blameless life.
the valley, entered his house, and
made
friends with
him.
love, they
were
Haji
husband to
her
that
^
it
An
those
lives is
194
to
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
mar their happiness. But as time went on, the good man grew weary of this unalloyed happiness, and sighed for a change. From his home on the mountain-top he could see the roof of his little palmthatched house, where he had lived alone for so many years, and he could see the lights of the village near
it
He
thought
came
if
Delight of
for
what
while.'
to see
my
great
sickness
;
of
him go, pledging him to return to her when a month had gone by. She called her servants and ordered them to prepare a boat to carry her husband to Kuching. So the Haji departed, and the days seemed long to the daughter of the moon. At length the Haji's time had expired, but week after week went by and his wife sat alone on her mountain peak, longing for his
daughter of the
nevertheless, she let
return.
moon
guest,
to
SARAWAK AND
admonish
lionized
his friends
ITS
PEOPLE
in
195
good
he was so
wife
amongst the clouds at the top of Santubong. " Some months had elapsed, when one morning, as the Haji was returning from the river-bank where he had bathed and prayed before beginning the day, he looked towards the north and saw a great black cloud forming over the peak of the mountain then he suddenly remembered his wife. He hastily summoned his servants, and, when the boat was made ready, the tide and strenuous paddling of his crew bore him
;
He
clambered
to find
its
it
home
only
empty and desolate, for the daughter of the moon had flown. At this the Haji's heart grew sick and he shed bitter tears. He went back to his relations at Kuching, and there became gloomy and silent, constantly sighing for the presence of his wife.
"
One
Haji's
at
evening,
man
'
in
a canoe passed by
the
landing-place,
where
he
was
sitting,
staring
the river.
Eh, Tuan
Haji,' the
man
called out,
Mount
loosed
of
Sipang,'
off.
The Haji
Mount Sipang.
He
rushed up to
its
highest peak,
Subsequently he heard
news of her on Mount Serapi, the highest peak of the Matang range, but on reaching the mountain-top
196'
SARAWAK AND
to
ITS
PEOPLE
peak
the
mountain peak
all
the
husband
for ever.
He
after died of
a broken
story, but
my
friend
went
on
to explain that
is
mountain
moon
is
home.
was almost midnight. " I ask your leave to " I go. Rajah Ranee," my Malay companion said. hope you will sleep well." She walked away in the
moonlight to her
went
to
home
CHAPTER XXII
ONE
is
of
my places of predilection
Lundu.
It differs
in the
country
called
and that the country is flat near the Government Bungalow, We embarked for this place in the Aline, and although the water is shallow on
bourhood,
the bar
we managed
feet
when
river,
the nine
necessary to
float
our yacht
at the
mouth.
Groves of talking
grew
soil
and
As
the
we proceeded
nipa
farther
palm
forests
appeared.
We
could
feet
in
see
height,
the Dutch country and Sarawak, so that the Rajah and the Dutch Government each possess half of this
mountain.
It is
not so precipitous as
is
Santubong,
and has
the top.
forest trees
of the sandbanks
soul
was
to be seen
on the sea-shore.
We steamed
198
SARAWAK AND
streams travelling
ITS
PEOPLE
by
little
down
to the
main
river.
Farther on
we
No
I
one could
tell
me what
unknown to science. It would have taken our sailors many hours to hew their way to it, so we contented ourselves with looking through opera
glasses, across a jungle of vegetation, at the
gorgeous
what the
tree was.^
little
farther
on were huts
sitting
on
When we
arrived
at
Mr.
Government bungalow situated a few yards from the river, came to meet us at the wharf, accompanied by a number of Dyaks. A Dyak chief styled the Orang Kaya Stia Rajah, with his wife and relations, came on board with Mr. Douglas
in the comfortable
^ This tree, which no one could tell me the name of at the time, was the only one of its kind I had seen ; therefore, it was not strange I formed the idea it might be unknown to science. Its leafy image persisted in my mind, and the thought of it haunted me. I have now been informed that it is not unknown, and is a creeper, called Bauhinea, and not a tree
at
all.
Seen
it
at
it
blossom, for
a distance, its appearance is like that of a tree in completely covers and perhaps smothers the tree
upon which
fastens
itself.
SARAWAK AND
to take us
ITS
PEOPLE
199
on shore.
made
of the finest
piece of light
wood
delicately carved to
My
at
affectionate
sniffed
;
and
it,
They
laid
it
my hand, by my side
and
some
of the
Dyak men
European
kiss in
reverence.
two
little
my
hand.
On
it was fearfully hot. Our shadows were very short as we moved along, and the people
overhead and
lined the
way
right
up
We
hands
had
to touch
along, even
when
at
last
we reached Mr.
The enough to leave unpainted and unpapered. walls were made of the brown wood of the country, and were decorated with hanging baskets of orchids
in full flower, vandalowis, philaenopsis, etc.
a mass
mauve blooms,
hanging
pots
in
fragile
and
of ferns
were
placed
200
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
and chimpakas
the settle-
In the evening
ment.
The many plantations of Liberian coffee trees looked beautiful weighed down with green and scarlet
berries,
some branches
still
retaining their
snowy
blossoms.
The
contrast of berries
and
flowers, with
made them a
charming picture
fields
in the landscape.
We went through
latter are grace-
These
trained
up
green bunches
of green and
hanging down
red grapes.
we
met
until
little
groups of
They
we came up
to them,
out,
rushed at
retired once
the backs of our hands, and more to the ditches without saying a word. During the night I heard the Argus pheasant
us, sniffed at
These
which
roam about the hill of Gading, by the bungalow and thickly covered with virgin forest. The sound they make is uncanny
beautiful birds
close
is
and
wandering
trees,
in
seeking
an implacable world.
Any
calls
falling or the
birds.
SARAWAK AND
The
ITS
PEOPLE
201
was a
fine
starlight
and we walked there after dinner. The house was built much in the same way as are other Sea
Dyak
able poles
we had to climb a slender pole with notches all the way up, leaning at a steep angle against the verandah. The chief, with an air of pomp and majesty, helped me up the narrow way as though it were the stairway
of a palace.
magnificent.
his
costume
with gold,
his
waist
was
Dyaks who had Chinamen resident in the Malays from over the Dutch border, and even a
of people
:
and
near.
The
chief
embroideries and
stiff
brocades.
Branches of sugargreat
many
lighted
roof,
Langmore, and
sat
on
girls sat
202
the
latter,
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
dark cotton
was narrow and hardly reached her knees, and over this she wore a dark blue cotton
neck with gold buttons as big Her eyes were dark, beautiful and
as small saucers.
keenly
intelligent,
little
The high
cheek-bones,
gave
lips
what
Her
hair
was pulled
it
and as she carried her head very high, the great mass looked as though it dragged it backwards. Her hair, however, had one peculiarity
for her,
(a peculiarity
in
Sarawak before)
it
was streaked with red, and this made Madu unhappy, for Malays and Dyaks do not like the slightest appearance of red hair, some of the tribes shaving
their children's
are seven years old, in order to avoid the possibility of such an occurrence.
The
little
creature looked
around
like
whose
old,
wrist
was
tied
a black wooden
rattle,
small cannon-ball.
and appeared
part
removed a piece of calico, its only article of clothing, when I saw that the child's stomach had
on
its
it
from
SARAWAK AND
being seized by the
his
ITS
PEOPLE
The
it
203
chief told
demon
of disease.
its
nurse,
when a
away.
We had
of
cakes
made
grated
There
in quarters, together
Glasses of
to the
much
handed
male
guests,
right
and
was cleared
down
on mats on the
The
It consisted of
seven or eight
number, decreasing
in size, fixed in
scale, in fact.
individual,
and when
running water.
drums beaten at both ends with the musician's fingers. These instruments played in concert and with remarkable rhythm were pleasant to listen to. When the band had finished the overture, two young men got up after an immense amount of persuasion, and walked shyly to the middle of the cleared space. trousers, They were dressed in Malay clothes jackets, and sarongs and smoking-caps, ornamented with tassels, were placed on one side of their heads.
also
They
fell
down suddenly
hands
204
SARAWAK AND
above their heads,
the
ITS
PEOPLE
till
cksped
and bowed
their
foreheads touched
slowly, looked at
floor.
away.
The master
was evidently the thing to do, for several other At last couples went through this same pantomime. couple were induced to come back, when the first their shyness vanished, and the performance began. One of the dancers held two flat pieces of wood in each hand, clicking them together like castanets.
The
other
man danced
He
was as
skilful as
any juggler
had
them
in
wonderful accuracy.
a second.
The
on one knee with the other leg outstretched before them, then on the
to
swayed
other,
and
fro,
they knelt
first
sometimes bending
the floor-
the
it
and
at every
a delightful
for them to be ungracenew pose they managed to fall into arrangement of lines. The dances were
was impossible
evidently inspired by
Malay
all
artists,
full
although per-
of restraint.
interesting
and
pretty.
SARAWAK AND
Sometimes empty cocoa-nut
placed in patterns on the
ITS
PEOPLE
The
205
were
floor.
dancers picked
up one
in
mouse-deer dance,"
made by
After the
men had
stiff
finished,
came.
These wore
floor,
hanging from
almost to the
under
their
armpits and
reaching
The
girls,
pretty
Madu,
hair,
headed a procession of
women and
who emerged
They
from the
wrists.
With
their
were
and wafted
left
down
us,
hall.
When
they approached
and
with their
stood
could
only see
Madu
It
would
I
2o6
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
all. if
imagine the
How
with
women
in tights
and short
artistic, if
stiff
skirts,
art
and its execrable taste. Each time a movement more graceful than the last was accomplished by these young women, the men evinced their approbation by
yelling,
for
some
boys of
When
We
we
all
it
was
late
when
his
left this
The
chief
and
cakes,
One
old
my hand
and put
it
into
whom
he particularly vvished
friends,"
I
he
said,
"for
"You make
your friends."
hope
we managed to drag ourselves away. Our hosts escorted us back to Mr. Douglas's
SARAWAK AND
bungalow.
I
ITS
PEOPLE
in
207
hand with the chief, and Bertram followed, hand in hand with the chiefs son, who kept assuring Bertram that he felt very happy, because they had become brothers, for was not Rajah Ranee, his mother, walking home hand in hand with his father, and as he was doing the same with her son, that quite settled the relationship.
led the way,
hand
The
The
as
me
"
manah
" (beautiful),
words were
recent shower
as
had
left
air cool,
by the
rain
fragrance crushed by so
little
many
We
crossed a
windows
to
When we
or
was
in
bloom
later,
I
all
over the
Half an hour
as
leaned
my
bedroom,
could
still
hear
way back
full
to the village.
fireflies
The
trees in the
garden were
the
of
looking
We
left
Lundu
We
Mr.
2o8
SARAWAK AND
I felt
ITS
PEOPLE
we
steamed away
I
Although
I
may be
am my
not ashamed to
own
any of the
Sarawak settlements
heart behind.
always
left
a piece of
CHAPTER
XXIII
I
WHEN
all
Bertram and
way up
the
Rejang
in
the things
had
life
The
I
early days of
my
to
was delighted
in
smallest details of
my
so
first
and most
years
interesting stay
these
later
regions
visit,
many
before.
During
this
Mr.
Bampfylde
told
me
of
Haji
who had
As
from the
own
lips,
Mr.
him the next morning. Haji Matahim was a typical Malay from Sambas. He
Sibu with his
schooner
to the
relations.
He
possessed a
small
of about 200 tons, and Dutch Settlements, to Rhio, and to Singapore. His face was round and short he had a receding chin and a protruding upper lip, shaded by a black and bristly moustache. He was flat between the eyes, and his complexion was rather darker than most Malays, being tanned by exposure
trading
made voyages
and sea
air.
He
14
told
me
that
210
SARAWAK AND
I
ITS
PEOPLE
was
sailing
write he
from
Singapore.
an island
One day he was becalmed not far from called Rhio, when his ship was suddenly
by an extraordinary shoal of fishes. As the fish swarmed round the ship, the crew managed to haul them up with buckets and baskets, capturing them in enormous quantities. Having no
surrounded
salt
fish,
the
crew,
number,
cleaned them
there
and
offal into
in the
bows
when suddenly
mended with a
piece of wire.
his
crew
He
whereupon the Haji ordered the lead to be thrown over which this unlooked-for object
lying.
The lead gave only six fathoms, whereas that particular region the it is well known that in Then the Haji saw sea is about fifty fathoms deep.
was
a
flat,
The head was bows floating between its eyes. Hke that of a fish, and, according to the Haji's
SARAWAK AND
at the
ITS
PEOPLE
211
end of
for
spikes,
the
time
observation
was
for
sufficient,
as
the
his
move
or
but after a
hung over
from the Haji how much the water was troubled when
the monstrous head plunged back again into the sea, for
if
it
to their vessel,
how-
ever slowly
went under.
not very
the time
and continued his trading excursions schooner for some years afterwards.
Personally
I
the
same
am
whatever
Haji, but
lips.
it
took
it
from his
own
me
trouble to question
separately,
some
theirs.
of the
members
of the crew
and the
struck
tale told
I
because
it
me
as interesting, but
am
not pre-
pared
whether
212
SARAWAK AND
scientists are
ITS
It
PEOPLE
has been said that
even the
the question.
It
is
Well,
am
some Malays,
that the
and
make
Lucille,
the
As we
forced our
way round
somewhat
difficult point,
through a mass
of driftwood borne
down by a
freshet, after
heavy
bumped
against and
and eddied round the ship at this spot, and the Malay at the wheel changed from one leg to the other,
cleared his throat perpetually, frowned, and stared
over.
Although the steersman handled the ropes very gently, as though fearful of breaking them, he got
over
with
the
little
difficulties
with
the
greatest
ease
and
waste
of
energy.
After
this
trifling
incident,
we went on our
solitary
launch the only living thing in this wilderness of wood and water. Farther up the river the years that
my
first
visit
to
the district
trade,
and commerce
SARAWAK AND
to
ITS
or
to
PEOPLE
two
213
settle-
the
river-side,
It
and
one
new
at
ments.
was
interesting
efforts
notice
Kanowit
Catholic
of our
Roman
fruit.
The
mis-
handsome church
is
remarkable
scholars.
set
by,
being well
good
The
Roman
describe
them in full, but the blameless lives of these men and women, who have cast away all thoughts of comfort in the world and elected to throw in their lots for ever amongst the aborigines, cannot fail to impress the people amongst whom they live. Spiritually and materially their beneficent influence
is felt
we
are gathered
to our
told,
I
will
wak
is
missionaries.
Farther up the
river,
we passed another
small
Along the
made
of
poles,
was
214
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
The banks were
for houses,
are usually
made
of rattans.
The
Tanjong people are about the best basket-makers of the country, and the wild Punans make the best mats. At this spot, where the trade in rattans is active, we saw up-river Dyaks hurrying up the steep banks with loads of rattan and gutta-percha, on their way to sell them to Chinamen, A great many boats,
full
their turn to
be unloaded.
The
little
Bazaar was
they only
with their
for
wore
waistcloths.
Even
the Chinamen,
pigtails twisted
No women
like
in
were
to
be seen,
men looked
Having passed
we met
company but that of hawks flying rather low overhead, of brown moths so large that I mistook them for birds, and of butterflies, blue, yellow, and white, appearing here and there over the mud-banks in clusters of delicate colours. About six in the evening we reached Kapit. The Fort stands on a hill, and steps cut out in the sharp, steep banks lead up to its front door. It stands some
with no other
forty feet
above the
rainy season,
when heavier
SARAWAK AND
fine
ITS
PEOPLE
215
season collect up
the anchor
river,
known
was dropped near the wooden wharf, a crowd of Chinamen, Dyaks, Tanjongs, and Kayans, rushed from the Bazaar and helped to carry our luggage. We had brought our Chinese cook with us, and he struggled up the bank with cages full of cocks and hens which he had brought from Sibu. Some of the people carried my dressing-bag and rugs, Mr. Bampfylde's, Dr. Langmore's, and Bertram's portmanteaux were seized and borne to the Fort by Kayans with their hair streaming over their
shoulders.
As
most good-humoured and merry fashion. Suddenly the crowd fell back, as a rather
middle-aged
us.
stout,
dark,
meet
"
Mingo "
man came down the path to This was F. Domingo de Rosario (called by his friends), Commandant of Kapit Fort.
a Portuguese from Malacca, and
to
Sarawak during the reign of the first Rajah Brooke, to whom he was butler. Mingo was born in Sarawak, and was educated at the Protestant Mission at Kuching, and when old enough to join the Rajah's service he was sent to the Rejang district, where he has remained ever since. Mingo is well acquainted with the wild
inhabitants in his
district,
and
is
much beloved by
above
all,
them.
With
216
for the
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
the
way he has of looking at life as a huge joke, Dyaks often compare him to " Simpurei," one of
Mingo has been through strange adventures, fought many battles, and on one occasion, many years ago, was attacked in a place called Ngmah, where a Fort
had been erected, but which has long since l?een pulled down and dismantled. In these quieter days, when life on the banks of the Rejang is comparatively
free
is
when
his time
was spent
in per-
He
is
who
(meaning honey), to
whom
he
is
much
in
attached.
We
settled
down comfortably
constant stream of
Dyaks and Kayans came from the countryside to see us, for Mr. Bampfylde had made them aware of our intention to visit Bdaga, a place some three
weeks' journey by boat, situated at the head-waters
of the
Rejang
visit
Belaga
river.
Knowing my
I
intense
wish to
all
the places
possibly
could,
Mr.
Bampfylde had suggested this trip to Bertram and myself. The great charm of the undertaking
lay
in
the
fact
that
to
get to
Belaga innumer-
we had
to
go through an
interesting
SARAWAK AND
between Kapit and
ally the land of
ITS
PEOPLE
it is
217
essenti-
Kayan
people,
those
higher reaches of
Rejang are
to
monuments of Kayan industry, in the shape of tombs carved by the people containing the remains of their
most
famous
chiefs.
On
such
expeditions,
it
is
make
excursions
cataracts,
up these
difficult
Many
of the
to
craze
in
the
neighbourhood, and
chiefs,
came to greet us on this occasion, had been attacked by the Government, his house burned down, and his possessions taken from him, owing to members
of his tribe taking heads of innocent people living
in the
remote
well, for
Rawieng took his punishment he bore no malice, and stretched his hand
interior.
all
out to us
and the reason came out before long. Having been summoned by Mr. Bampfylde to paddle my boat and accompany me to Belaga, they imagined I intended going on the warpath.
friendly than usual,
2i8
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
This idea pleased them much, and great was their disappointment when Mr. Bampfylde informed them
that
my
When
all
voyage,
the
weather
behaved
year
;
in
an unexpected
manner
July, at
for
we were then
in
which period,
in the
heavy storms of
after our arrival
and
and the water of the river almost flooded the banks on which it stood. Tree-trunks, leafy branches, fruits, berries, and even blossoms, were torn from the banks
and swept along in the angry stream, and it seemed as though the bad weather would never come to an end. The rapids in the neighbourhood were insurmountable, and day after day the chiefs, Mr. Bampfylde, and ourselves discussed the situation, Mingo, wondering whether or no it would be safe to face such The Sea Dyaks, who thickly populate this torrents. <iistrict, were present at these discussions and gave
vent to their opinions in endless streams of words.
The
with
their chief
were
on the banks
opposite the
were
annoyed
at the
rivers laying
down
owing
themselves
more competent
give
an
opinion,
SARAWAK AND
Therefore,
in
ITS
PEOPLE
219
these discussions,
to
frequently been
Belaga, thought he
Tubam's appearance was not prepossessing. He was old, shrunken, and wrinkled. His black hair, untouched with white, hung in oily corkscrew ringlets from under his little Kayan crown of plaited straw. Three lines of tattoo simulated a beard round
his chin.
He
and
pink
his
eyebrows and
eyelashes,
two
little
slits
framed
in
speech.
He
said
he
felt
Only that morning he had seen on its surface flecks of foam from the great cataracts miles away, borne past his house just above the Fort. "It would not matter much to Rajah Ranee, or to Tuan Muda, if either of them was drowned," he " Think of the said, but it mattered much to him. shame," he went on, " which would fall on me and my tribe if such a thing were to happen in our river." Then he got excited, clenched his fists, his thumbs
pointing in the direction of the river.
"
And
forbid
you
you not
of his
my
grandmother, and as
These words
argument with
his
own
and murmurs of approbation from Salleh and other members of his tribe. Salleh was second in importance in the village, and had offered to steer our
"
220
SARAWAK AND
was the most
skilful
ITS
PEOPLE
He
steersman in the
district,
that
he did not
like the
job
But
on
in
Dyaks were
last
persistent.
They
insisted
having the
Hawk
(a title
He
squatted
himself by
me,
sniffed,
cleared
his
and whispered, " Don't mind what Tubam says he knows nothing about it. He talks too much, his mouth is very large, and he is a
throat once or twice,
;
bumptious fellow
asked Hovering
Hawk news
of
his wife
and
family,
imagining he had got the best of the argument, unfastened a small basket hanging at his side and
emptied
its
of tobacco,
little
brass
box one
filled
fell
out
He
smeared the
wrapped
them in the leaf, and, with this large pill swelling one side of his face, sat contentedly at my feet for
the remainder of the interview.
As day
after
still
the rain
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
221
showed no signs of abatement, we realized that it would be impossible for us to undertake the journey
in the
my
be to stay on at Kapit
when we could
fapid, called
Pelagus, the
cataract of a series
up the Rejang River. This comforted us somewhat, and we thought of ways and means of diverting ourselves and our company whilst being kept prisoners in the Fort by the flood.
Many
all
Dyaks from
in
parts
of the
Tubam,
Salleh,
women
close
by,
Mr.
Bampfylde and
arranged
an
the
Some
of the
Tanjong
arts,
women and
having expressed
occasion,
willingness
to
give
us
we were
and delay
CHAPTER XXIV
ON
intricate
raging
making
conversation impossible.
room
we
could see
little bits
entanglement
exuberant in
of creepers
and
parasites,
rain,
blazing
view,
detail,
like
over-exposed
veil
photographic plates.
thick
grey
of water
was succeeded by terrific peals of thunder almost oveAead. It was a weird scene. The walls and
flash
ceiling of our
rooms were of wood, the mats on the were dark, a lighted lamp hung frdm the centre floor of the ceiling, and here and there were placed
tumblers of cocoa-nut
oil
in
Tubam had come at the head of the men and women of his village. Kayans from the far interior
were
easily recognizable
by
a fringe
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
223
and two great fangs from some wild beast's jaw were thrust through their elongated ears. The Sea Dyaks were very picturesque their young warriors wore a mass of fringes and beads, of silver bangles, of waving plumes, of ivory and brass armlets, and of
;
silver waistbands.
in
Their
women shone
resplendent
armpits,
movement.
seem to love the ceremony of touching hands. Dyaks and Kayans turn the palms of their hands upwards, and bend their fingers in the shape of claws into these cavities you dip your fingertips, when the slightest touch on your part appears
All natives
;
to
give satisfaction.
It is
extraordinary
how
cool
at night,
when a storm
is in
progress.
I
On
this
felt
tempestuous
either
touched
warm
Our
The Tanjong
;
women were
draperies
the
first
to
come forward
armlets
their silken
rustled,
their
tinkled,
but their
floor
;
naked
feet
moved
matted
draped ghosts.
noisier
Dyak women,
their
with
Amazon-like
cuirasses,
very short
224
petticoats.
SARAWAK AND
When
the
ITS
PEOPLE
passed,
Kayan
of
the
long
procession
with
thin,
the
flower
glorified titles
won
in
exploits
days
Bald-Headed
of swaggef,
Hawk, Torrent of Blood, Face of Day, the Cobra, and many other titles, equally terrifying and appropriate.
full
own
importance.
The
we
called for
On
ment of the programme is a matter of difficulty, as none of the performers appear to like figuring in a lever de rideau. I inquired in Malay who should begin the performance, Mingo translating my remarks in a loud voice, so that all should hear but
;
the
women
sat
sullenly
in
their
comer, the
men
We
began
to despair.
for
it
Mingo must
Tanjong
come
to the rescue.
told
him
to ask the
ladies to
open the
nodded his head, and then marched up to one of the corners of the room, where the girls were sitting in a group. He
laid
of the ceiling.
lamp swinging from the centre For a minute or two the girls re-
SARAWAK AND
their shoulders,
ITS
PEOPLE
giggling,
225 shrugging
their jackets
mouths.
They pretended
to
be shy,
and out of their trailing petticoats, and suddenly rushed back to their former places and
flopped
as
of
down in the midst of their friends. Quick lightning; Mingo was after them. He got hold
their hair, their arms, their draperies,
anything that
came
lamp.
to
hand,
A
in
clear space
in the girls
were
sitting
there
They were a
their eyes cast
down and
Two
of
strings of
bamboo
little
guitars,
tinkles
damsel beat the ends of a bamboo drum, thus bending her fingers back almost
third
The
to her elbows.
The music
pantomime of refusal, the musicians taking no notice of what was going on. We began to think we should not see any dancing that night, and even Mingo seemed about to lose
his
temper.
He
storming at the
commenced
to
much
on them,
15
for
2 26
SARAWAK AND
But by and by,
for
ITS
PEOPLE
their
able.
no apparent reason,
fro,
and we understood
girls
had begun.
The change
wonderful.
was
to
an end,
faces, their
heavy
eyelids
were
like
over
their
eyes.
in-
They looked
scrutable, as
tiny
ancient and
though moving
from
an occult power.
desses, torn
practising
strange
in the
mortals.
They were
slim,
ing, with pale yellow skins, made yellower by a liberal amount of turmeric rubbed over their faces, necks, and arms. Their mouths were large, their noses flat and broad, but we scarcely noticed their departure from our European standards of beauty, so charm-
fit
We
down
lead.
We
tell you this ear fashion is a sign of amongst Buddhist believers. princely descent The girls stood and moved so well, a straight line might
have been drawn from the crown of Their costumes were their heels.
black satin jackets,
their
heads to
their
bells,
pretty,
little
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
227
reaching half-way to their knees, and their long petticoats of fine dark red and blue tints sweeping over
their feet.
far
ias
their
shoulder-blades, from
up
in
crowns
straw,
all
brightened with
beads,
manner
of glistening things.
Knobs
arms
is
thought
this
The dance
difficult to describe.
was slow,
As
toes,
from
slowly
their
chins
to
their
their
feet
being
they
hidden
When
their
arms,
an
undulation
wrinkled
sigh,
lost
up the
itself
beginning
in
at
their
heels,
Then
putting
they
slid
along the
floor, their
peeping
in
Sometimes the
height,
were drawn up
their
full
when
in the regal
pose of their
Sometimes they hung their heads, stretched out their arms and flapped their hands, like the wings of a bird, when, in the sudden transition from an appearance of haughtiness to one of humility.
228
SARAWAK AND
head to
I
ITS
PEOPLE
I
turned
my
listen
to
remark
Bertram
made,
and when
had reappeared.
their- friends,
They moved
fury^
was followed by a
rain through
to
terrific crash,
Mingo rushed
them
to,
am
we were
not becoming a
little
bored.
for refreshmerits
Although these were of the simpkst description, our guests were mightily pleased when Mingo reappeared
with a great black bottle of gin under his arm,
followed by a satellite bearing some water and two
was measured out in the tumblers by Mingo with the most punctilious care, and diluted with a fair amount of water, when the tumblers went the round of the hall, each warrior drinking his share and passing the tumblers back to
tumblers.
spirit
The
Mingo, who, bottle in hand, refilled them. There were cocoa-nut cakes, cocoa-nut milk, coffee, biscuits made of sago, and other delicacies for the ladies,
some
of
whom
SARAWAK AND
entirely for the men.
life
ITS
PEOPLE
229
spirit
should be kept
heard
over the
hall.
At
this
juncture,
and very
left
me
held tightly across his bony shoulders. had already greeted one another in the general " shake-
We
hands" earlier in the evening, but it all had to be gone over again. "Long I have not seen you," he said, as his hand shaped itself into the customary
claw in which
I
dipped ray
fingers.
He fairly beamed
friendly,
on
me
his smile
I I
and
although
tnew
name.
straight
turned to Mingo,
at
my
was glad to see that Rawieng, who only the year before had kept the district in a state of terror owing to the head-hunting propensities of his tribe, had mended his ways his presence at the
between
us.
I
;
was
interesting to notice
how
between Rawieng
and
Mr.
Bampfylde.
Only
previously,
owing
to
whom
Mr.
Bampfylde
(then
Governor
of
the
Rejang)
2 30
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
Rawieng's
was compelled
and burn
his paddy.
Nor
was and
this result obtained without a good deal of risk difficulty to the attacking party, for owing to Rawieng's conservative ideas he had pitched his
house on a precipitous
able
way
inland.
only to be reached after and marching a considerRawieng was a rich old man, and
hill,
was heavily fined for the atrocious murders his tribe had committed. The long line of jars ranged along
the walls of his house (the chief glory of the village,
as they were supposed to have been
made by
spirits
and given by them to Rawieng's ancestors) were taken by Mr. Bampfylde and stored in the Fort as pledges and hostages for Rawieng's future good
behaviour.
There we were, that evening, the recent enemy I, sitting over the spot where the precious jars were stored. Rawieng's conduct at our party showed
and
that he did not bear malice, though
it
his people
had tendered
His
in
the
wild
many
was
warriors present
who had
lent
it
expedition
and
tribe,
Rawieng's
man
SARAWAK AND
completeness of his defeat.
ITS
PEOPLE
231
(for so
"Tuan Bampy
He
and punish evil-doers, and, above all, he knew not what fear was." Imbued as all these people are
with a veneration for courage, Rawieng expatiated
at length as to
how thoroughly he and his people had been vanquished. Then, The Bald-Headed Hawk, The Cobra, The Torrent of Blood, and other
Rawieng and I were holding an animated conversation, and disliking being left out in the cold, joined us, and thus turned the channel of
old chiefs seeing that
The
refreshments
having
again
been handed
Mingo decided
entertain us.
that
some
of the
into
man
on a
of bamboos
gourd,
different
and
sizes,
fixed
and in sound resembling bagpipes, although softer and more musical. To the tune of
the keluri these
men danced
monkey
up with the head dance, this being considered the "clou" of the evening. Two performers wore their war dress for the occasion. Their arms were thrust
232
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
upon rows
In
movement of the
dancers.
shields,
two round
and a
hair.
painted in red
and
black, over
a great part
in
such performances.
plot.
;
Two men
are supposed to
From
the
first
moment
tion,
first
jump about
then
to
like frogs,
looking
one
to
side
and
the
other,
from
behind their
springs
shields.
One
his
is
full
height,
and
rushes
at
his
opponent,
begins,
who
struggle
and they appear to be in deadly earnest. They wave their swords with such rapidity that it looks as though a number of steel Catherine wheels were flying about the room. They hack at one another,
but never thrust.
After this sort of thing has been
time,
going on
for
some
one
of
the
performers
becomes exhausted, and falls to the ground, when his opponent seizes the advantage, grips him by the throat, kneels on his fallen body, and pretends to
SARAWAK AND
saw
at
ITS
PEOPLE
233
it is
the body.
somewhat
dis-
from the warriors present, who made a noise as though a number of dogs were baying at the moon.
The
head,
to
to
represent
off.
the
real
head he
is
supposed
have cut
He
is
As he
by the lock of hair left for the purpose, he looks at the dead face and discovers the head to belong to his brother. Another dance is gone
waist-belt
through, but
now
The
to return
But
A
in
friendly spirit
passes
by and whispers
the
bereaved
brother's ear.
murderer
fits
its
when
in
a short time
it
is
The
brothers
sabres,
dance
is
ended.
is
Through
it all,
dancers
extraordinary, for
may
be,
these
Dyak
as
dancers
panthers.
are
invariably
graceful
and
noiseless
34
SARAWAK AND
By
this
ITS
PEOPLE
late,
time
hot,
it
was getting
I
stuffy
and
so
left
the
party as quietly as
possible
and went
my
private room.
in
its
I
The
rain
last
quarter was
Only a
I
night-light
was burning
in
my
room, and
when
I
a nervous
cough behind
me made me
start.
I
and when they were brought, sitting on the floor against the
saw a row of people wall. I was surprised, for natives are usually very tactful. Salleh was the culprit on this occasion he had come with his wife Penus, and his daughters Remi and Remit, to ask me if I could see an Ukit woman, who had been too shy to come forward and speak to me before so many Having heard that morning that people at the party.
;
her to me one day when I should be alone, so I suppose he did not see why he should not effect the
introduction there and then.
to
After
all, I
was anxious
see and talk to an Ukit woman, and as Penus was present and understood her language, this was a
good opportunity.
Judging from what I had heard about the wild habits of the Ukit people, I was surprised to find my
visitor
an engaging
little
person.
SARAWAK AND
looking, but not quite ugly.
lay
ITS
PEOPLE
235
was
slight,
degree.
and her wrists and ankles delicate to a She usually wore a short petticoat of bark,
with a
it
over her
feet.
Her
hung down to her knees, and she wore a little crown of black and yellow beads, a head-dress usually
worn by these people. The little thing soon lost her shyness, and talked away quite unreservedly. Her language sounded soft and guttural. She had a pretty voice, and very nice manners. Her weird, fantastic appearance attracted me, and I took a great interest in this creature of the woods. She addressed some remarks to me, and was evidently asking for something.
me
she
(1
had brought
;
it
was
into
off.
wrapped
in
mauve
paper,
made
I
how
She followed my instructions with great care, folded up its mauve wrapper with its tissue lining, and stuffed both in her hair inside her crown. She sniffed at the
soap and handled
it
as though
it
were
brittle.
"
Now
2 36
I
SARAWAK AND
sweeten the
air for
ITS
PEOPLE
I
shall
a great space as
off to
walk
moved
of
my room,
But she had a husband, and he had been looking for her. Mingo ushered him into my room. He looked
more like her grandfather than her husband, for he was very old, and she almost a child. He was a dirty old man too, and belonged to another branch of this Ukit tribe. He came up to me grumbling,
and as
fingers.
I
put out
my
my
He
then showed
me
his wrist,
round which
was
his sickness, as
down
away.
He
come
did not remain long with us, but told his wife to
She obeyed meekly, and he followed her, scowling, and chewing betel-nut. We wondered whether he were jealous of his attractive wife, and little creature, whose soft and felt sorry for the charming manners had, even in so short a time, won
our hearts.
I
his
party good-night,
but
Penus stayed behind, as she wanted to have a parting Moreover, she had brought a basket she had word. made for me, thinking it would be useful in packing
some of my things on my boat journeys. The basket was a large cylinder, made of palm-straw, and woven in intricate patterns of black and white, with a domeshaped cover fitting into its top. These kind of baskets are quite impervious to rain, and the Tanjong
SARAWAK AND
people exdel above
facture.
is
I
ITS
PEOPLE
237
all
thanked Penus
kind present.
"It
good
to see
I
you
are glad,
year,
only wish
my
daughter,
who
died last
Penus was very sad about daughter. She had never spoken
too."
I
about her to
me
before, but
the hour, the night, and our parting of the next day,
made her more expansive than usual. " Do you think the dead come back. Rajah Ranee ? " I could not answer her, for I don't suppose I knew more
about the matter than she
she believed in Antus
did.
But
or
if
asked her
if
(spirits),
;
seen one.
to our
comes
and
darkness."
"
"
Do
? "
asked.
beings.
Oh
I
no
human
I
If
which
her."
my
We
friends.
left
me
to join her
As
I fell
asleep,
anchored
in the river.
CHAPTER XXV
THE
We
started from
normal aspect.
to
company
of
ma,
my
Mr.
when
I,
lived in Sarawak.
canoes, and Bertram and Dr Langmore another. Our boat was called Bujang Naga (Bachelor
Dyak
dlite
Our
crew,
amongst
whom
were the
numbered
about
forty.
Salleh
his
The
Museum,
vessel,
for
they are
instead of being
on the
stern.
and
sat
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
239
arms paddling as though for dear life. Those seated nearest to us were Unggat, Merum and Grasi, all renowned warriors. Our journey being a peaceful one, the chiefs had discarded their beautiful war accoutrements, and their appearance was homely, not Hovering Hawk was wrapped in an to say dowdy. old tartan petticoat or sarong. The Cobra had a loincloth as his only covering, and their companions followed suit. But the younger warriors were very smart they had stuck alamanda and hibiscus blossoms in their head-handkerchiefs, and their waist;
cloths
were bewilderingly
bright.
it
We
paddled on,
hour
these
after hour,
and
thought
extraordinary that
men
fatiguing labour.
They appeared as though they enjoyed themselves, and when the rhythmic stroke of the paddles flagged, a shrill scream from the man sitting in the bows, and who directed the speed of the
boat, instilled
renewed vigour
when
and shouting,
Do
" Ah-a-a," he would Sometimes our crew raced Bertram's boat, and when his boat shot on ahead. Hovering Hawk and Flying Snake gave vent to ejaculations of
scream again.
remember
240
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
out to
boat.
Hovering Hawk pointed it me, and the man in the bows stopped the My rifle lay loaded by my side I cannot
explain
was there I suppose I thought it Mr. Bampfylde sporting to carry a gun about. suggested I should try and shoot the crocodile, which I did, whereupon the beast rose in a mighty cataract of water and flopped down again into the stream. This feat of mine was much approved by the crew, who with grunts and ejaculations congratulated me on my exploit I do not know whether I killed the beast. I do not think a bullet from my rifle could really have ended its life, for crocodiles are difficult
it
;
!
why
to destroy
if
a bullet penetrates
the open
wound becoming
kill
animals,
or since,
in time. Being a lover of must explain that I have never, before willingly killed any living creature, but a
I
them
wounding,
people
I
made
am
not sure
was
right in
doing
so,
although
dangerous
pest.
to lunch,
rest.
The
Dyaks had
erected a
little
SARAWAK AND
shade of scattered rocks,
ITS
PEOPLE
241
hanging from tripods made from branches of cut down in neighbouring forests. Very soon
fires
trees
little
began
to spring
up
all
think
are
this
bird's
soft,
song most
ravishing
its
trills
velvety,
and yet so
down
naturalist.
Dr. Hose,
who
with
is
an expert
sounds of
note
shrill
birds, disagrees
me
he thinks
I
and sometimes
from such
alligator
disagreeable.
beg
respectfully to differ
an authority, and
bird (the
of the country)
still
maintain
that
the
name given to the bul-bul by the natives is among the sweetest songsters of
the world.
By
ready to proceed.
Great
water,
trees,
growing on
it
rocks,
overshadowed the
where
live.
was
difficult to
understand
how they
could
The
river
I
became
I
wish
knew what
those pebbles
amethysts,
tourmalines,
Dr.
Hose
told
me
up these
of sapphires.
rosy, white,
16
An
242
water.
for
SARAWAK AND
One
I
ITS
PEOPLE
it
of our
Dyaks
me, but
prevented him.
preferred to think
than see
it
fading in
my
hot hand.
The
great stairway of rock was before us, and of gravel under our boat's keel warned
it
the crunch
no longer. Some of the crew jumped overboard and made secure long
barriers
many
that
lay
in
our
way.
The men
bounded over these impediments, and we bumped and creaked as the rattan ropes dragged us up these enormous boulders, the water pouring over them in Sometimes the torrent was so imall directions.
petuous,
height,
that
our
their
might.
lodged on
rock,
and bathed
in the
between the stones. They might have been bronze tritons escaped from fountains, endowed with life, and
disporting themselves in these waters.
The
agility
of an old Bukitan, who must have been at least His crown of sixty-five years old, amused me much. plaited straw lay over snow-white bristles, and a fine
He
was
SARAWAK AND
his arduous work,
ITS
PEOPLE
243
in
continually.
towel
round
his waist
was
The
old
man
;
he
we found
ledge of rocks
We
clambered up
Rhododendrons,
hibiscus,
and convolvuli of
colours,
ing us of violets,
as
made a mauve
and
in so
we stepped
along,
We
At our
island,
were divided by a
in
small, rocky
on which grew,
leafy
this
scrappy
bits
of
soil,
lofty
trees with
branches.
The water
many
frothed and
foamed round
informed
me that at
boats are
swamped
is
and
Rejang
are reached.
Belaga
is
As I stood looking at the whirlpool, Hovering Hawk, who was standing near me, pointed with his
thumb
to'
all
244
"
SARAWAK AND
there,"
ITS
PEQPLE
eyes
See
he
said, "
lie
Beyond
this
then,
and
sprinkled
by the spray.
like,
The
mystery, the
unlike,
and yet so
European
about,
waterfalls
the groups of
silent,
Dyaks
scattered
grave
and
perhaps
remembering
comrades of
whirlpool
;
theirs
the perfumes of moss, damp earth and and the sound of running water, made us thoughtful, until Face of Day, with a pompous air, pulled his sword from out its wooden sheath, cut
flowers,
and handed
its
it
to me.
and
he
I
berries
flaming
gift
hearts
manah
(beautiful),"
said.
His
somewhat impeded
my
progress as
struggled
down
managed
its
and one of
leaves
now
rests
of Assisi's Floweret
We
rapids.
then embarked
the
return-
looking
eagerly for a
new
It was very great fun. Salleh stood in the bows with a long pole, and two or three of the crew
Dyaks
in
no doubt rejoicing
SARAWAK AND
having nothing to do.
the crest of the waves
ITS
PEOPLE
like corks
245
We
;
bounded
over
we were
from
whence
we emerged by
moment
clever
strokes
of
and rounded
appeared as
before,
was shady,
cool,
and peaceful
;
and mosses smelt sweet pale blue butterflies hovered over the banks, and a hawk hung motionless in the air above our heads. When we
had passed
in safety the
cataract, our
sort of dirge
chant.
me
it
was a thanksgiving
As
write,
it
all
comes back
to
me
as though
it
down
think
at the
end of
too
my
life, I
had
to give
spent,
an account
it
have ever
would be
foaming
of those
brief
down
those
CHAPTER XXVI
AFTERon
night
a short journey,
we encamped
still
for the
a gravel bank,
within sound of
On
our way,
we paddled
it
by a jagged
to
rock, about
me
that
Kling (a hero of
Dyak
On
It
me
to
and bathe
in.
bamboo
me
to sleep on.
ferns, flowers,
and
leafy branjches
on
its
meal of
It
moon
and moved the sedges in the river with a musical Some palms in the neighbourhood rustled sound.
as
falling,
and the
perfumed
and
valleys,
air in
SARAWAK AND
day.
ITS
PEOPLE
247
Our
friends, the
and
the trees
mists began to
and
in the forest
near
and white owl crying for the moon. The Sarawak people call it Pung-Gok, and the sound of its two notes, musical and tender, made us feel happy and yet sad. This was the
Httle black
by we heard the
moment
some
fylde
said Mr.
for our
friends to
tell
us
of their legends.
"How
Bampfylde
to Salleh.
think Mr.
Bampa true
knew what was to come.) Salleh, " I know all about the
I
"Oh
flood.
yes," replied
It is
story and
will tell
it
you.
"When
in heaven.
very wicked, the heart of the great god Patara grew sick
He
in
man and
wife, to
their
all
heads to the
so that
after
They many
up the paddy
and
were
doing
into
heaven by
their tails.
At
seven Rajahs
in the world,
Rajahs Sinddit,
all
Niuka,
Rajah
'We
must
these years
248
SARAWAK AND
I
ITS
PEOPLE
how
have
been so hungry.'
The
said,
brothers inquired
'
he suggested
making preparations so as
visit.
to
saw from
their hiding-place
their
the brothers sent showers of poisoned arrows, hitting the dragons every time.
sick,
The dragons
effect,
felt
rather
:
over and
to earth.
Then
came
forward, followed
respective countries,
Some
portions in
bamboos, others
earthenware
boil,
saucepans.
When
The
the
fat
rise,
As
which lasted
for
earth,
and
all
the people in
woman,
in the
named
Suki,
who
survived in a boat.
After a long
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
had
249
also
a pig, and a
her
peril,
cat.
but
when
ran
on
her,
made her
sister
his wife.
They had
a son,
named Sinpang
After
many
new
population,
whose name was Gading,' collected an army and went to fight to the edge of the sky. He led his army through forests and valleys, up and down great mountains, until he arrived at a land of fields, where the army slept for the night. The next morning the people saw an enormous mushroom, called Kulat Liman it was so big that it took seven days to walk round it. The Rajah's army, who had finished their provisions during their march, waxed hungry at the sight and hacked at the mushroom, cooking and
;
fill,
began to speak
in different languages.
The Hindoos
black, the
directions,
Kayans pierced
their every hair,
their
the
off
2 so
SARAWAK AND
Then
Kling,
at
ITS
the
to
PEOPLE
god of war, came confuse them, and
speak
in
themselves.
down
all
Patara's
the
people
command commenced
to
strange
led further,
and they
all
now."
We
lit
all
Merum
told us that he
knew a good
cigarettes
we
fresh
and
cleared his
"
listen.
He
The
giant
Goa
is
He
lived
up the
Pelagus Sukat
his
rapid,
tribe
by
killing
daughter
all
and a
of animals
up
together.
When
tribe
^gan
a big
as he walked
his
man that the water only came up to his knees. "Goa had a son-in-law, named Bessiong, and as rice farm was much troubled with pigs, he gave
kill
the
away with
to
tell
the spear-head
still
sticking in
its
neck,
home
Goa was
exceedingly wroth
SARAWAK AND
to track the pig
ITS
PEOPLE
251
and managed
some way by the spots of blood. came to an end he looked up and found he had wandered into an unknown country. He roamed about, and at last came to a great village inhabited by a strange people, living in very large houses. Looking into one of the houses, he saw
When
these
of the inmates.
house,
When
saw the
him and
Bessiong told
asked
permission
if
to
he could doctor, as
Bessiong, agreeing
save her.
well again,
told,
the
patient,
who, he was
On
he
must
first
go outside
cloth.
to obtain remedies
in a short
accordingly
bamboo and a
and slipped
it
He
covered the
head and
in the
bamboo.
He
girl
then instructed
recovered.
"The
his
Rajah,
grateful
to
Bessiong,
gave him
daughter
in marriage.
They
252
SARAWAK AND
to
ITS
PEOPLE
wells,
down
She
bathe.
and
him that
wells,
to their
She asked him to dip his leg into the pig well, and when Bessiong did so, it was changed into a pig's leg. He then dipped it into the other well, when his leg was immediately restored to its original shape. After a time, Bessiong became rather weary of the company of his pig wife, and wished to return to
his
father-in-law's
village.
him
that
if
it
would be herself
At
the same
him
She cautioned
he would die
him that
himself
he did happen
to kill her,
One
his
day,
the river.
his wife,
The
and a longing
took possession of
him.
He
and
He ran
to the place
where she
lay,
and found
all
her jewels.
Thus
it
happens
SARAWAK AND
that his tribe
is
ITS
PEOPLE
253
scattered
all
remnant being
Bliens,
Kanowits,
reduced in
Kejamans, Sekarrangs,
story
number."
This
of the
pig
of the legend as
if
before,
that,
know
it
so
well
whenever the
other
of the
reciter
warriors
round
immediately
prompted him.
making themselves felt, they wreathed themselves round the tree-tops and formed into walls over the waters of the river, so that the distant hills became invisible. But the little owl's voice was still heard crying for the moon. He had flown farther away in his search for higher branches of trees whence he could see his lady love. By and by, the moon itself was lost in the mist, and the little bird lover's cry was silenced, when the ripple of the water over the pebbles, and the roar
It
grew
cold.
The
mists were
we
heard.
off to
said good-night to
I
my
friends
and walked
moored
the river's
side.
I
said good-night to
well,
he
said, "
I
Oh
shall just
2 54
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
A quarter of an
!
my
leafy shelter
Then
asleep,
sweet sounds.
a
flute,
They were
pouring forth
triplets
of notes,
I
some
mists,
short, in the
minor key.
The
half-light of
dawn
still
As
they
branches
"
of a
and rent themselves away from the bush growing near, I saw Salleh
flute in
standing there,
I
hand.
said,
making
is
that
sweet music
I
" Yes,"
he.
replied;
"it
a tune
play at
it
dawn and
sunset,
it
my
eyes, so
me
to play
it
to you,"
Well
thought,
am
sorry
natives to
CHAPTER XXVII
ON
the
is
our
way down
the Rejang
we
stayed one
evening at Sibu.
set,
some of
our friends.
first
The Chinese
in
Sarawak.
In
early days
for
about $io a
now
risen to three
all
times
that
amount.
Chinese
merchants
over
Sarawak buy this commodity from the natives and send it to Singapore. The camphor seekers in the forests of Sarawak go through a great
many
superstitious
rites
in
order
to
find
good
supplies.
Sometimes they stay in the forests for weeks together, having only salt and rice for their
sustenance.
The Rejang
export
:
river
is
rich
in
many
articles
of
indiarubber,
gutta-percha,
beeswax,
mats,
being found
keys
in the
The
natives
2 56
SARAWAK AND
at
ITS
PEOPLE
extremely
high
prices.
Bezoar
stones are also to be found in porcupines, but they are rarer, and are, in consequence, even dearer than
from Kapit
*
Fort
The
and
killed
by the natives
for the
it
wounded.
One
to
of our
visits,
on
this
in the place
first
when
Rajah.
white
in
the
with
wooden
front
of
with
balustrades,
floored
in
where the
shopkeepers sat
the cool of
the evening,
all
and
day
and
rain.
The Chinaman
Langmore was
the
old
for
to
Dr.
meet a colleague,
to be
man
was supposed
his
skilful doctors
in the neighbourhood.
He showed
horn,
Dr.
Langmore
grated rhinoceros
the
powdered bezoar
SARAWAK AND
Stone, the broth
ITS
PEOPLE
25;
of the counters
made from
sharks'
He
was ending
days in peace and prosperity. His dispensary was thronged from morning to night with patients
suffering
from
all
kinds of diseases,
at
nervous and
otherwise.
low,
The
death-rate
Sibu, however,
was
*
beneficent.
old
friend
quite
without
coffin
an eye to the
he owned a beautiful
made
like a looking-glass.
in
the
warm, dry
seasoned
air,
so that
in case of
emergency.
The
old gentleman
would
sit
coffin
smoking
his
labour
that
one solace
of hard-working Chinamen,
in the evening,
who
just
as an abstemious
man
From my own
I
experience
amongst the
people of Sarawak,
is
not in any
way such a
and
over
"fire
water" sold
such large
its
the
United
Kingdom and
so few restrictions.
:
But
the
would close over him and his place in the world know him no more. Going back to our bungalow near the Fort, we
lid 17
258
SARAWAK AND
full
ITS
PEOPLE
Bazaar
:
in the
these
were
white,
some opaque, ornamented with dabs of black, red, and yellow. These beads are made in Venice, and find ready purchasers amongst the poorer Dyaks, Kayans, and Tanjongs, for they are a fair imitation of ancient beads these people dig up, sometimes by
accident,
sometimes as the
of
result of dreams.
It
is
curious
how
interesting account
in
Dr.
The
Dyak
and Kayan people. One of my Dyak friends told me that he dreamed if he went to a certain spot in a forest rather distant from his home, and dug under a particular tree, he would find amongst its He accordingly roots a valuable bead called lukut. went to the spot, dug under the tree, and there
found the bead, which he carried round his waist
in
little
stones
worn
queer shapes
We bade farewell
to the bead-finder,
to the
who had
of our house,
our
way
to
and the next morning we left Sibu on Simanggang. We entered the Batang'
Lupar River and steamed by two green mounds, covered with trees, shaped like dumplings, which
SARAWAK AND
Stand at
its
ITS
PEOPLE
is
259
entrance.
One
its
of these
an
island,
has up-
underneath.
On
a tomb
erected to a
Muhammadan
lady,
who
holy
lived a great
many
coast,
little
for her
and her
When
buried in this
island as
a special tribute to
to her
her memory.
Although a pilgrimage
tomb
of the
visits
to
and
satins to lay
in
which she
life.
held by
mouth of the Rejang had been so smooth that it was impossible even The sun was setting, and for me to be sea-sick. of us the shoi'es of the Batang Lupar wer^ in front veiled with pink smoke, for it was now in September, and the Dyaks were burning their farms. I saw
the
strange,
fitful
sky, fragments
of pale
blue framed
golden
fluff
with ragged
edges of copper.
colour, like
a fragment of a
covered the
The
260
blood-red,
SARAWAK AND
like
it
ITS
host
PEOPLE
;
glorified
until
sea.
in
a few
moments
gleam
it
vanished, darkness
Our arrival at Simanggang was a pleasant one. Our dear friend, Mr. Bailey, who for several years had ruled the district with marked success, and Mr.
Batang Lupar, were at the wharf to meet us. Bertram and I walked up that sweet-smelling avenue of angsana trees leading to the Fort and to the bungalow where we were to stay, and where we spent a
Kirkpatrick, then Assistant- Resident in the
happy
time.
A
about
to the
me now
as
write
visit
for since
Bertram's and
my
dis-
In mentioning
would be a great and very ungrateful omission were I not especially to mention these two men Mr. Frank Maxwell and Mr. Bailey. Mr. Frank Maxwell 4ived at Simanggang, in
Simanggang,
it
many
years,
and
it
is
interest in the
who takes an Malayan Archipelago how famous the name of Maxwell must for ever be in that part of the His father, Sir Benson Maxwell, and his world. brothers. Sir William and Mr. Robert Maxwell, are
almost unnecessary to remind anyone
well
also
known
for
Eastern lands.
I
But
I
it
is
of
now
write, for
am
able
SICKNESS,
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
261
which
all
He
man
of twenty-
two years of age. He first of all learned the methods of Sarawak policy under Mr. Skelton, another of the
Rajah's loyal
young.
who,
alas,
district,
and
for years
he toiled
Head-hunters
were busy
in those
days
Batang Lupar, and many were the expeditions led in order to restore peace and trade in the vicinity. A chief, called Lang Endang, gave immense trouble, and at one time menaced in a somewhat serious manner the inhabitants residing in the lower waters of the Batang Lupar River. Now
by him
Maxwell has passed away, I do not fear his displeasure at pointing out the manner in which he drove these enemies of the Rajah back, thus establishing security and peace in the district. One of these expeditions comes back forcibly to my mind as I write. Mr. Maxwell's health was never very good on account of constant malaria and rheumatism, and once when an expedition was absolutely necessary he was lying crippled with an attack of acute rheumatism in Simanggang: Fort. He was carried down to his boat and placed on
that Mr.
During the
262
SARAWAK AND
foot.
\
ITS
PEOPLE
and when he got
to
hand or
he led
comfort
his
Dyaks
although
and had
still
leisure
in
great
pain
he
I
be
ill
in
must
have
have
felt
affection of the
and endurance.
I
It
Simanggang people themselves. The same devotion to the country distinguished Mr. Bailey, who was content to live in the Fort situated up that green cliff overlooking the Batang Lupar River for years and years, bereft of European
society,
with
the
exception
of the English
ofificer
them the benefits of good and to keep them as much as possible from the pernicious habit of head-hunting, which
into civilization, to teach
agriculture,
seems ingrained
in their
very bones.
These two names which occur to me as I write are of those who have gone beyond the influence of either
praise or blame.
Fortunately
still
many
it
of the Rajah's
is
alive,
and
only because
their friend,
and 4cnow
print,
refrain
from saying
as
about
such
men
Mr.
Bampfylde,
Mr.
Harry
SARAWAK AND
I
ITS
if
PEOPLE
I
263
know
shall
be forgiven
my
Englishwomen
tionate
friends
who have
also taken
an
affec^
of the
women
of our
country.
The
most
successful
in
their
know them
care for
well
and
to
become
realize
their
friends.
all
how much
who
Sarawak apprealas,
ciate their
work out
there.
Mrs. Hose,
still
died
lives in the
of the
women
of
Sarawak.
Their other
Englishwomen friends are often spoken of in Kuching and other places in Sarawak, and the one
wish of the
see
women
of the country
is
that they
may
them
again.
J
CHAPTER XXVIII
WHILST we
at
Simanggang,
me
number of Dyak women, living a little distance in a village up the Batang Lupar, had requested permission to send a deputation to welcome us to the
country.
I
to receive the
women, so
Bertram and
little
distance up
by
and other
tropical their
file
of
women making
silver
way
aloft great
and cakes.
ears,
High
silver, falling
Their bodies
were cased
blue,
in
innumerable
and
and white.
They wore
quantities of anklets
and
upon rows of beads and gold ornaments. There were about thirty or forty of these women, walking slowly,
holding themselves
very
the
264
straight,
their
eyes cast
mysterious,
down, and
noticed
same
curious,
SARAWAK AND
archaic
ITS
PEOPLE
as on
265
those of
expression on
their
faces
Tanjong dancers. They came to the bungalow, passed Bertram and me, and laid their gifts of fruits and cakes on the verandah at the back of our house, then followed us into our sitting-room to have a
the
little talk.
their
on the
tucked under-
and I asked them about their families and all the news of their village. They told me that not many weeks before, sickness had attacked some members of their community, and that their long
talk,
jack
fruit,
etc.,
banks of the
of the
river.
god of sickness, they had erected a little hut on the river-bank. I felt curious to see this hut, and
asked them whether
I
might pay
idea,
it
a visit
and these forty suggested paddling me thither in one of their boats. Accordingly, that afternoon, Bertram and I were conveyed a few reaches up the Batang Lupar by this
were pleased with the
picturesque crew.
spot,
It
They women
palm
leaves.
Large
rice,
plates,
some
roof,
and on a
pieces of salt
266
fish,
SARAWAK AND
and other
spirit of
ITS
PEOPLE
gourd of water,
to
tempt the
human
flesh.
This custom
is,
believe, a universal
in
Sarawak.
The
women assured me that the sickness was stayed by these methods, but the hut had been left there, in case the unwelcome visitor should return at any time
for
more
victims.
in
We
to
the
bungalow
the
the
women expressed themselves delighted with time we had spent together. That evening we held a large reception in
Fort, at which
all
the
my
old friends,
One
of
younger days,
pretty
Her
and her
movements made her a striking personality at the party. I must own Bertram thought the girl pretty and talked a good deal to her, but in quite a
fatherly manner.
part,
who
She
SARAWAK AND
considered an " orang kechil
ITS
PEOPLE
267
person of no
friend,
"
consequence);
therefore
She
told to
me
she was
"
my
and
(a
competent
teach
Anak Rajah
She con-
and could only manage to do so by telling her that perhaps she might get an opportunity the following morning of seeing Bertram, and remonstrating with him on his conduct. Meanevening.
tried to pacify her,
while, poor
woman, of Arabian descent, and her features were more European than were those of Malays generally. She had been good-looking, and was even then a
picturesque figure in her draperies of dark blue and
scarf,
still
made
ma
told
me
and one or two of her female retinue were prowling round the garden of the bungalow, in order to waylay Bertram as he went out for his morning walk. What
happened
but, being
at the interview,
I
never quite
made
out,
I
warned by
ma
had met,
The angry dame was pouring forth a torrent of words to Bertram, who could only understand about a
quarter of
all
it
she said.
ma
the gist of
(the Seripa)
was
my
friend,
268
SARAWAK AND
that
if
it
ITS
PEOPLE
and
of her relations
am
when a few
judge
for
my
was not of such serious import we left Simanggang, Bertram and the Seripa had become good friends. It must be remembered that the greatest pleasure to Malays who have passed their first youth is in
herself that the matter
all.
after
By
the time
teaching others.
young people
(it is
is
"
well
was
shows remember
It
first
give
me when
went
amongst them
in the
days of
my
youth.
'
CHAPTER XXIX
DURING our
usual, a great
stay at
Simanggang
I
saw, as
inter-
many
natives,
and being
It
persuaded
should
my
visitors to relate
some
of these to me.
down by
I
Dyaks possess
no
literature,
telling.
to
my
how
lies
in
their
slight
every
variation
goes
to
show
embedded
in the
minds
and
lives
by storms and tempests, through laughing or ill-treating animals, was universal amongst the
petrified
inhabitants
of
this
district.
The
following
are
two
stories
regarding this
belief,
told
me by my
village called
It
friends.
Many
Marup,
little
far
stood on
the banks near its source, and below the village the water rippled over pebbles under the shade of great
a6g
270
trees.
SARAWAK AND
There
were
ITS
PEOPLE
and
there
deep
fish
pools here
could be seen
swimming
in their hands.
was a happy
poor to be attacked
terrible
The
orchards
rice-crops
their
full
fail.
of
fruit,
and the
made from
their dwellings, or
the
men
fished, hunted, or
went long
them
into
One
day a young
She
filled
" Ikan
Pasit."
The
girl
she was preparing them for supper, the smallest fish jumped out of the cooking pot and touched her
breast.
"
What
"
fish.
"
Do
my
husband
people
? "
and
at
this
The
who were
Suddenly,
a great black
hills,
pall
was seen
and spread over the sky. A mighty wind blew accompanied by flashes of lightning and detonations
sounding
like
the
fall
of great
hills.
Then
SARAWAK AND
tempest was in progress.
hail
ITS
PEOPLE
271
The
torrents of rain
night.
and
After a
down on
child,
woman, and
and every animal, even the houses themselves, were turned to stone and fell into the river with a
loud crash.
When
and the only traces of that once happy settlement were great boulders of rock lying
in the
The
fish
the
first
to
mock
at the
was only
into
the
river,
Thus she
lived
many
body of
implored
stone.
its
her,
make no
it
They
could not
move the
rock, for
was too
big,
and was
a
doomed
to
remain
alive.
One evening
girl's cries,
man
bottom
tried all
He
heard the
and
means
and
his
at length in a
of impotent
272
SARAWAK AND
it.
ITS
PEOPLE
cries ceased,
Suddenly her
to stone.
This
living
known
to a great
many
of the
Dyaks
up the Batang Lupar River, and the group of rocks was pointed out to me when we passed by them, if
I
remember
The
is
other legend
known
who
lived
built
The
was a proud, haughty man, whose tribe numbered one thousand men, women, and children.
He
his
was given the title of " Torrent of Blood," whilst more famous warriors were also distinguished
similarly
His house was so large that it had seventy-eight doors (meaning seventy-eight families lived under the same long roof). He was indeed a great man when he consulted the birds, they were favourable to his wishes, and when he led his warriors to battle, he always
by
splendid names.
:
Borneo could equal the noise made by his warriors when they gave vent to the terrible head yells,
No tribe in
by which they made known to the countryside that they were returning from some successful expedition. Practice had made them perfect, and the mountains,
rocks,
their shouts.
When
women and
children stood"
SARAWAK AND
on the banks
to
ITS
PEOPLE
273
The most
distinguished warriors'
were a mass of
for they
feathers.
None
heads of enemies
feast) given in
honour of heads
years before,
fire
Some
to ofie
whole of
the
culprit's
family
being enslaved.
One by one
until
man had
tribe.
died,
In-
heaped upon him, he was looked upon with great contempt, and made to live in
dignities
the last
room
thrown.
One
usual,
to the tribe.
He
room and
dressed
up
in
made
of panther's skin,
hornbill's
plumes
in
tinguished
to
Dyak
warrior.
in
He
sight
carried
the animal
chiefs
the
open verandah
of the
for
and
elders
who were
18
discussing plans
a fresh exgirls
pedition,
husking
274
the paddy.
creature
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
all,
the
friendless
hugged the cat and held it to his heart. He was nearly weeping and tears stood in his eyes, but hard-hearted and scornful, the people pointed at him in derision for owning such a friend, and laughed loudly. The warriors forgot about their war plans and the women about their paddy, in their keen enjoyment of the poor man's misery. Suddenly, he let the cat jump out of his arms, and as it touched the ground it ran like a mad thing in and out of the crowd, dropping here and there the cap, the jacket, and the scarlet waistband. Freed from these trappings, the cat leapt out of the house and disappeared. Then a great storm arose and the stone-rain fell upon the people. The chief of the village, together with all his tribe, were hurled by Antu Ribut into the stream, and they and their houses were turned into those great rocks which anyone can see for
himself
if
he
will
journey up those
River.
many reaches of the Batang Lupar The poor despised man found rest and
he crept inside
heart.
Hose has
told
me
that Bukitans
and Ukits
he once had a baby maias^ which learnt to put its arms into the sleeves of a small coat, until it quite
got to like the coat.
^
When
visiting Dr.
Hose
at
SARAWAK AND
the Fort these people
ITS
PEOPLE
275
slowly putting
faces
on his
when they
hid
their
away their heads, for fear the animal should see them laughing at it. When Dr. Hose asked them why they v^ere afraid to be
and* turned
It is
'
mali
'
(forbidden)
Here
to
is
stone
to their parents.
Not
far
my
friends,
village, in lived.
which a man,
and
their son
once
The
how
to
and
care. The father make schooners, how to fashion make nets in order to obtain a
to
boy
all
he
knew.
village
When
father
on a trading expedition
schooner built
parted
by
his
and
himself.
The
parents
little
settlement and
After
many
to
years the
and returned
his
the
place
birth
for
to
father
moment
But,
276
so
of
SARAWAK AND
the
their
ITS
PEOPLE
the poverty
in
story
goes,
when he
and
realized
surroundings
their
position
the
ashamed of
to
low
estate.
He
spoke unkind
words
their
the
old
couple,
life's
blood to build
after insulting
arose,
them more than usual, a great storm and son, together with the whole of the inhabitants of the village and their houses, were tossed into the sea and turned into
and
father, mother,
stone.
district
is
rich in legends,
will
tell
me by
wife in Simanggang. Every one living Simanggang knows the great mass of sandstone and forest, called Lingga Mountain, and all those
fortman's
who have
wife)
travelled
this
at
all
(so
said
the
fortman's
have seen
Lingga Mountain and know it is to climb, and how a of country can be seen from its flat and
difficult
town of Kuching.
A young
one night
appeared to him
rise early the
in his
banks of the river had emerged from the mists of night, and climb Lingga Mountain, where he would find the
SARAWAK AND
a blessing to the
ITS
PEOPLE
2;;
become so great
Dyak
The
vision
went on
tribe, for
sprains
and
morning before dawn had broken over the land. He had climbed half-way up the mountain when he saw, just above the fog, the fragment of a rainbow, like a
gigantic
its
rose colour
in the
knew
at
When
difficulty
the colours had faded from the sky, Laja went his way,
until
he reached the
top,
diminutive
After searching for some time, he found the and carried it back to his village. He then pounded it up and gave it to people who were sick. But the plant was capricious, for, whilst it cured some, others derived no benefit from it and died. Its
root
successes, however, proved
failures,
and
was
the villagers working hard at their paddy the place where the plant
moreover,
off
278
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
named
Simpurei,
anyone of
his intentions.
When
he reached
arch
hill
being a fragment,
its
was
perfect,
must be bathing in the neighbourhood nevertheless, he still went on. He heard the sound of water and rustling leaves close by, and,
pushing aside
through,
great
branch
of foliage,
peered
hair
when he saw a woman most divinely She was unclothed, her falling down her back until it touched her feet.
She threw the water over her head from a bucket of pure gold, and as Simpurei stood staring at this beautiful vision, one of the twigs in his hand broke off. At the sound the girl looked up, and seeing the
youth, fled to a great bed of safflowers near which her
clothes were lying.
As
became entangled
there.
in the
it
left
hanging
like
Simpurei saw
left
cobweb
on a branch
a dewy
night,
it
and
up
carefully, put
with the
etc.,
which he
He
him as charms, in his sirih bag. hastened home, having forgotten the saf-
SARAWAK AND
seized with violent illness.
for
ITS
PEOPLE
279
H e lingered
to the
to his
Medicine men
were
showed their wisdom when they decided that his death was a just punishment sent him for had not by the Rajah, the Spirit of the Sun stood and gazed at his daughter when she Simpurei was unclothed ? Another legend, which I had from the fortman's wife, telling how the paddy was first brought to Borneo, is a general one all over the country, and is related by many of our people with certain variations. Some generations ago a man dwelt alone by the side of a
the elders of the tribe
:
One
he was watching
districts of the
had been submerged and a number of people drowned in the flood. A snag, on which perched a milk-white paddy bird, was hurrying to the sea, followed, more leisurely, by a great tree torn up by its
in a sandbank and swung and fro in the current with a portion of its roots above water. The man noticed a strange-looking plant
roots.
to
entangled in
its roots,
and unfastening
It
his
canoe from
2 8o
SARAWAK AND
he threw
it.
ITS
PEOPLE
it
of no
about
When
up
his mosquito-net,
fast
him and spoke about the plant. This phantom, who seemed more like a spirit than a man, revealed to him that the plant was necessary to the human race, but that it must be watched and cherished, and planted when seven stars were shining together in the sky just before dawn. The man then woke up and, pulling his curtains aside, saw the plant lying in the corner of the hut shrivelled and brown. There he left it, and went to visit a friend living in the neighbourhood, to whom he related what had happened, and went on to say that the spirit of his dreams must be very stupid in telling him to look for seven stars when But there were always so many shining in the sky. his friend was a wise man and able to explain the meaning of his dream. He told him that Patara himself had appeared to him, and that the seven stars were
quite
different
from other
still
stars,
as
in
own season
tell
appearing in the
when the new plant was to be put in the ground. The friend, being also versed in the law of antus,
or spirits, said that the plant found in the roots of
(rice),
SARAWAK AND
After
this
ITS
the
it
PEOPLE
281
explanation
guidance, the
man
The
it
little
grew and
so
that
The
plant
in
all
their
farms,
the
paddy now
flourishes
Sarawak have always enough to eat. Sarawak people have very beautiful ideas about paddy, and their mythical tales about the food-giving
plant remind one of the
relating to
Demeter and other earth-mother goddesses. Amongst some tribes, indeed, I fancy, nearly all over
Sarawak, the people plant the roots of a
their
lily
called
in
paddy fields. They treat this flower as though it were the most powerful goddess, and every paddy field belonging to the Dyaks of the Rejang, of the Batang Lupar, of the Sadong, and also of the Land Dyaks near
Kuching, possesses a root of
little
this flower.^
They
build
it,
and
care
treat
its
delicate
and
I
short
with
the utmost
and reverence.
have often
Rajah's
houses,
who have
it
some time
in native
believe
to
be a species of Crinum.
2 82
festivals,
SARAWAK AND
have given
it
ITS
PEOPLE
it.
me
a description of
have
always thought
and nurturing the delicate petals of flower as though its fragile existence were a protec-
die or
up before the paddy is husked and garnered, thought to bode disaster to their tribe.
chief
considerable
me
visits
in
pur bungalow at
for
Simanggang.
like
all
years,
and,
He
was a
anyone
his
when he
swagger,
trusted
became
his
His dark,
his
^restless eyes,
smiling
his
conceit,
humility,
and
his
kindness
of
always
too,
interested
me.
He
many
sense
had
a sense
humour,
I
and
cracked
jokes of which
;
Dyak; jokes are sometimes Rabelaisian in character. He was greatly interested in my camera, and thought the manner in which I fired at the landscape and caught it in the box nothing short of miraculous. One day
this
I
was perhaps
He
kept
me
before
upon
other.
my
I
he
SARAWAK AND
me
in
ITS
PEOPLE
moved
!
283
me
He
looked over
my
shoulder as
the acid
he gave a
him.
fogged.
his
yell,
"
tore
open
On
It
that account
picture
is
somewhat
fright,
prints.
great reason
had
company was
his devotion to
my
who had
Sarawak the previous year. At the time of Bertram's and my stay in Sarawak, Vyner was finishing his education at Cambridge. Panau confided to me that he longed for the time to come when his Rajah Muda would be amongst his people again. It appeared that Vyner had made many peaceful expeditions up the Batang Lupar River with Panau and his tribe. On one occasion Panau informed me he had saved Vyner from being engulfed by the Bore. When, on my return to England, I asked Vyner for details, he told me he did not remember the incident, and thought it must have existed only in Panau's imagination. I darevisited
come
to look
upon
it
as true.
At
any
ing
it
rate,
how
deeply
my eldest
was pleasant to realize how much he was esteemed by them in return. I do not think it would be amiss to relate in this
2 84
SARAWAK AND
years after
ITS
PEOPLE
Batang Lupar The Rajah found
a
some
my
stay at
the
River, up one of
its tributaries.
himself
obliged
to
tribe who had committed many murders in these inland rivers. The expedition started from Simang-
Harry Deshon in charge of a force of Dyaks and Malays numbering about eight thousand, whilst Mr. Bailey and Vyner accompanied
gang,
with
Mr.
For some unexplained reason, cholera broke out amongst the force just before it had reached the enemy's country. It was impossible to turn back on account of the bad impression such a course would have made on the enemy, so that, in spite of losing
them.
men
had
to
push on.
When
the
was
chosen body
by Malay chiefs, started on foot for the interior, leaving the Englishmen and the body of the During those days of force to await their return.
became most virulent. The three white men had encamped on a gravel bed, and
waiting,
the epidemic
the
Dyak
As
and groans of the stricken and dying. Out of six or seven thousand men who remained encamped by the
shores of the river, about two thousand died of the
plague,
friend
difed in
and
and
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
285
me
and
hope amongst the force during the awful time. He was always cheerful, they said. It appears that Vyner and his two friends used to sit on the gravel
bed and with a grim humour point out to one another
where they would
like to
be buried,
in case at
any
moment they might be carried off by the plague. When, after having conquered the head-hunters,
the attacking party returned to
and
dying.
The
to
return
journey to
Simanggang
in
was
along those
many
to
miles of water,
corpses
had
that
such
numbers
to leave
there
was nothing
be done but
them
The enemy,
home.
spread
victims to their
detestable habit,
amongst
was almost annihilated, A great stretch of country became infected, and the little paths around Simanggang were littered with the corpses of Chinese, Dyaks, and Malays. Nothing apparently could be done to stop the disease, which disappeared as suddenly as it had come, but this calamitous epidemic
destroyed nearly one-quarter of the population.
286
SARAWAK AND
Happening
to
ITS
PEOPLE
I
be
read in an
Italian
in
interior.
my
younger son,
staying with
at
me
at the time,
and
had spent a
terrible day.
CHAPTER XXX
ON
resides.
were
a place called
The
We
after
left
Kuching
hours'
in
few
steaming
came
to
Chinese
where the land on the banks becomes a broad alluvial plain and where
Chinese
settlers
grow
its
plantations
of
sugar,
that
beautiful
cane with
golden stems.
to
Fresh sugar-cane
a pleasant thing
cut through a
it?
munch
at in a desultory way.
it
You
thick
and when
bite into
it,
it
wood
its
you
in
suck
and dispose of
The
are
paths
the
vicinity
of
towns or villages
always
who
spit
As we steamed up
etc.,
river
we saw pepper
vines,
yams, pineapples,
also
987
288
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
holding
and using
terriers,
their other
in
their
gardens.
Yellow
out
rushed
from Chinese houses and yelped at us from doorways these were evidently Dyak dogs, who are never
;
known
sheds
to bark.
Bamboo wheels
primitive
These Chinese houses appeared more substantial than were those of the poorer Malays. They were built level with the ground, and their wooden doors were ornamented with scarlet bands of paper over which were large black Chinese characters. Ducks and geese were swimming about
in the river
These small villages being left behind us, the forests once more encroached on the land. The river now became narrower, and rocky banks replaced the mud. The banks were covered with ferns and bamboo grass, the latter weed looking like green lace and shaking at the slightest current of air. Black butterflies fluttered over the grass, and an alligator bird, or bul-bul, was singing on the banks in the sunshine. Clumps of bamboos grew here and there, and great trees hung over the water, clinging to the banks,
their branches entangled with parasites
and stag's-horn
covered
We reached
six
in
the
evening.
At
this
point
the
stream
is
>
-3-
ft,
^
Ir''
,>^.
^
9.
i
"
v;f
^4
Z:
;l
.-'.
!,
i|;
J
1
^i-' .
SARAWAK AND
about twenty yards
wide.
ITS
PEOPLE
289
Malay houses, devoid of orchards or gardens, stood on poles amongst the weeds on the banks. On platforms of crazy planks, where Malays husk their paddy, jutting out from these houses, dilapidated coxcombs planted
in
old
kerosene
tins
struggled
to
live
in
their
uncongenial surroundings.
path
made
of single
man on
ing a bamboo,
fetch water
came out
from the
river.
He was
met with a
men are supposed to leave water-carrying to the women of their household. A little farther on was the Borneo Company Ltd.'s wharf, whence the antimony and quicksilver is shipped to Kuching and thence
to Singapore
and Europe.
We found
and a great
Wharf.
of
ours,
awaiting
at
the
We
then got
into
a horse-truck
kindly
bungalow.
the
hill
Mrs.
Awdry met
us at the bottom
of
As we clambered
to
down
course of Chinamen,
meet
us, started
beating their gongs, blowing into instruments sounding like bagpipes, and waving banners, whilst others
19
290
SARAWAK AND
The
ITS
PEOPLE
tripods,
was steep and, as we headed the procession, the orchestra and bannerbearers, in the exuberance of their welcome, followed
closely at our heels, so that
up the
fearful,
pursuers
immediately
behind
me.
The
to
was
of breath from
for their
my exertions,
managed
I
thank them
From
hills
chain of mountains.
One
of them,
called
Sebigi,
Although
called
forest
fires
droughts are
rare,
No
fire
it
was conjectured that the rubbing together of the bamboos in the wind during the dry weather had caused them to ignite. With the exception of
this
to
we were
agriculturists.
scarlet runners,
SARAWAK AND
growing magnificently.
which floated
pigs.
flat
ITS
PEOPLE
291
There were small ponds on those beautiful pink and white lotuses,
100 Fahrenheit.
district
English
and the
The day after our arrival at Paku an individual named Pa Baniak (meaning Father of plenty)
came
was and
to see me,
his tribe.
He
in
situated
the
steep
slope
of
limestone
mountains
stout,
neighbourhood.
He
was short
his chin.
and a few white bristles sprouted over He wore Chinese drawers, a dirty white
and a dark blue handkerchief was
his
cotton jacket,
twisted
round
head.
He
had wooden
two reasons
discs
ears,
which, he said,
:
were necessary to
firstly,
He
he
and
river,
his tribe
the main
he
felt
In response to
my
not,
however,
my
fing^prs,
292
of his
SARAWAK AND
hand across
on the
first
ITS
PEOPLE
to
his nostrils,
:
his place
floor
"Malays
before the
are not
they did
ago, a
many wicked
Malay caught a
crocodile
was treacherous
a wooden hpok
dog
made
leaving its loose end floating on the dog howled and attracted a hungry The
tree,
crocodile,
spite
bird,
who swam
joyfully to
the
spot,
and, in
alligator
of the
warnings of his
friend,
the
He
swallowed the
Malay had intended, and the beast could neither swallow the hook nor spit it up, and therefore his jaw was prised open. The Malay, seeing the loose end of the rattan floating
itself in his throat,
down
the
river,
paddled
for
after
it,
but
the
beast
sorry
him.
The
crocodile
begged the man to put his arm down his throat and wrench the hook away. Thir^king it might be dangerous, the Dyak did. not much like the task, and inquired what the crocodile would do
for
eat
I promise never to attack or him in return. any member of your tribe,' said the crocodile.
'
SARAWAK AND
The man thought
was made,
after
this
ITS
PEOPLE
293
fair offer,
which the
over,
man removed
crocodile
The
thrust
operation
the
to
thanked
his
deliverer,
and
told
him
warn
all
people to
wooden
them
tale,
for
members
Baniak
our
of
some other
tribe."
To
arrival
prove
the
that,
truth
of
this
Pa
informed
at
me
only
few
days
of his
before
tribe
Paku, a young
man
had
fruit
With a
was
switch of
air,
and as
its
falling
into
wooden
discs,
nice,
Bertram and
made
and Pa Baniak was mightily pleased at the effect he had produced. Although four or five miles away, the trees on
tale,
up there, and my tribe has made wooden images of men and women to keep them amused. If ever the trees on the top
mountain, Pa Baniak
Antus
294
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
We
listened to
Pa Baniak's
us
talk for
some
for
time,
and he told
the
many
things,
as
instance,
about
terrible
consequences of
men
the
earth,
in
order
that
could
by the direction of the smoke whether or no But at length the dead had started for Paradise. we became tired and allowed him to depart. He rose slowly, grunted, scratched himself under his
armpits, took a
little
hanging at
he
his
his waist,
and gave
it
to
me.
"It
will
bites,
and antus,"
he made
in the
Then, followed by
downstairs.
his attendants,
way
distance,
keep the rain off their naked bodies, for most Sarawak natives imagine that rain falling on their skin We watched them as they went brings on malaria. along the plain in single file then the rain came down in torrents, blotting them out from view.
;
CHAPTER XXXI
ONE
Dyak
Malay
morning Bertram and I, accompanied by Mr. Frank Maxwell, Mr. Awdry, and Dr.
in
a steam
a
Munggo
Babi,
Land
Up
with
the
women and
for they
children set
to
bunches of crackers,
On
lilies,
by the natives "bungga bakong," but by European scientists Crinum Northianum, because they were first made known to European botanists by Miss North's pictures. They looked like crowns of great white stars resting on green and glossy
lance-like leaves.
Malay house at a village called Gading. The house was made of palm leaves, and the the poles supporting it stood on the mud whole construction was lashed together by rattans, as no nail or peg is ever used by the poorer Malays Clean mats in building such humble dwellings.
slept in a
:
We
395
296
SARAWAK AND
laid
ITS
PEOPLE
I
were
upon the
floor,
and
and
it
cooking-pans.
At night, as
pillow.
lay
on a mattress stretched
nightbirds,
on the
floor,
were, under
my
and
shrill
all
sorts
grotesque or beautiful,
hooted,
whistled, and coughed, sounding like the and rough jabbering of drunken men and there were hummings, moanings, murmurings the
;
and
evil, all
heard as distinctly by
mud
right
felt
terrified,
and with
its
joyous advent
we none
of us can account
for at the
dawn
of day.
But
We embarked
on
its
The
river
enormous deeply-indented
as large as soup-plates,
its
am
not quite
Wormia.
tained,
Then
beautiful
red
fruits
nestling
in
their
SARAWAK AND
roots,
ITS
PEOPLE
I
297
saw
waxy
lilies,
alighted
We
bank is the grave of an exceedingly righteous Malay gentleman whom the people called Datu Sumbang Kring. He
where
distance from the
lived
many
life still
could not
make
but,
how
life
was
lived,
the
After passing
directions in the
Tana Mera, snags stuck up in all bed of the river. Some Land Dyaks
to
from
meet
I
us,
bringing with
them canoes
last stages of
our journey.
how
different
these
Land Dyaks were to Kayans, Malays, or Sea Dyaks. They were tall and slender with well-shaped
more pronounced
chins,
and
298
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
wore an expression of profound melancholy. A Malay Haji had come with them to meet us and to direct proceedings. Our canoes had to be
pushed through labyrinths of snags and other impedi-
At one
part of the
men in our canoe had to cut down snag before we could proceed further. When
was accomplished, they began
tall
this
to yell
at
their
pointing to a
Tapang
its
the
swarm
clinging to
noise,
the
so
that
yelling,
he
feared
the
insects
might
attack
us.
He
we
were
same
risks as
Tapang
round,
one hundred
in
branches.
the wax.
Dyaks climb them at night to obtain The ascent is made by means of bamboo
into
pegs
driven
the
trunk
is
and takes several are scared from their nests with a lighted torch, after which the wax is taken with impunity. The wax is sold at Kuching and forms one of the exports of the country. A great hindrance to the Dyaks who go in search of
head, so that the ascent
slow,
hours to accomplish.
The bees
SARAWAK AND
this
ITS
PEOPLE
299
commodity
is
the
little
is
very fond
hives.
Two
Muhggo Babi
we had
lies at
and
We found a
crowd of young Dyaks drawn up on the banks to meet us, the elders having arranged to receive us
These young men wore waist-cloths of bright colours. The women and girls were dressed in short petticoats with rows of silver dollars and silver chains for waistbelts, and round their necks were rows of black, yellow, and red beads. These women do not know how to weave their petticoat stuffs, as do the Sea Dyak women, but buy them from wandering Chinese traders, or obtain them on their visits to the capital. Most of the young girls wore wire rings round the upper part of their arms and also round their legs. These rings all being, apparently, of the same size, impede the circulation and sometimes cause acute suffering, owing to the way the wire sinks into the growing limb. Four Dyaks carried me in a cane chair slung on poles nearly all the way, excepting where the path grew steep, or the way became difificult, when I preferred to trust to my own feet. I might have been a thing of feathers so
at the entrance of their village.
easily did
my
my
300
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
road led through
The
We
paddy of the
was
stored.
by groves of bread-fruit, lancat, durians, mangosteens, mangoes, and various other fruit trees. We crossed
a stream by walking over large sandstone boulders
scattered in
its
and foamed.
met us at this spot. One of them was dressed in an old military coat, which had His belonged to the South Lancashire regiment. legs and thighs were bare, and a large piece of turkey twill was twisted round his waist and fell in folds front and back. He held a long slender twig from
The
elders
His
up
in
a chignon under a
like
fillet
a crown.
One
of
them wore a
;
was
not a Malay
SARAWAK AND
handkerchief,
ITS
PEOPLE
301
old,
almost toothless,
men wore
their
bald heads.
in
a row
each holding
when we appeared.
took hold of
across a deep
my hand
muddy
and led
The
village
lay in a green
scooped out of
Down
by daily rain, made a refreshing and gurgling sound day and night. Bamboo shoots led up the mountain-side to the uppermost houses on the hill, whence the people obtained water for household purposes, and where
little torrent,
many
times a day.
When we
we climbed up
insignificant.
feet
My
residence
round room,
sleep,
in
which
whilst one
Chinese cook to
dress, eat, and was portioned off for our Another house prepare our food.
I
had to bathe,
part
was prepared for the men of our party this house was called the " Bachelor House " because none but men were supposed to yse it. But to return to my
;
302
quarters.
SARAWAK AND
Seen from
ITS
PEOPLE
house looked
like
outside, the
and lashed
It
Gemuti palm.^
walls
a ship in a heavy
planks,
sea.
The
were made of
windows.
and
small
apertures
served for
room
my
bed-
large tub
my
it,
use.
The
place
my
round
wooden
to
valance.
Our
make
an improvised
Just
were wreathed
intoxicating beverage.
hair-like
substance, used
Malayan Archipelago. substance which the plant also yields. Its strong, stiff spines are made into pens, used by the people who write on paper ; and a great many of the primitive tribes of the interior/ make their arrows from these prickly I believe that the pith of the trunk furnishes a kind of sago. points. The seeds are enveloped by a poisonous juice to which the Dutch people give the name of "hell water,"
is a horsecordage in shipping throughout the Tinder can be obtained from a fine cotton-like
"
SARAWAK AND
gaze, but
I
ITS
PEOPLE
303
searching
my
am
sorry to say
cotild see
through an
tribe
aperture
some
of the skulls
which the
had
when they
rose up
Rajah Brooke's
reign,
I
and
asked
one
is
country
At
little
the
commencement
Our Chinese cook gave himself airs, and informed Mr. Awdry that he could not possibly cook
put decent
food in such
a wilderness of
discomfort.
and
all
his saucepans.
of
my
head-house
I
could see
village.
were
and
there,
The houses
were, of course,
propped up by poles of
different heights,
were platforms made of split bamboos lashed together by rattans running down the fronts of these houses,
behind which were covered verandahs.
I
was
told that
304
there
SARAWAK AND
was a
it,
ITS
PEOPLE
fireplace in
above
where water,
salt
fish,
jars,
potted
durians, etc.,
were stored.
raised platform
was
place to
sit
friends, also as
village.
The women
and silver girdles shining against the dark background of the houses. I noticed that most of them parted their hair, and that the children's
heads were not shaved.
verandahs the
their pigs,
At
sunset in the
wooden
special
little
made of paddy husks mixed with water. brew was poured into smaller basins arid kept
which the
girls
fpr
pigs,
The
girls
little
food, whilst with long poles they beat off the cocks
and
in the feast.
banyan
under the houses, cocks and hens strutted about the roofs, and dogs ran in and out of doorways a tiny
speck of
life
surrounded by gigantic
and mountains.
hospitable,
and,
the night,
at
all
was
filled
SARAWAK AND
of
ITS
PEOPLE
the
elders
305
the
Dyak
tribe.
Whenever
were
wooden divan in front of me, I was anew with the unUkeness of these people to the-"fest of our Sarawak tribes. I could not help
seated on the
struck
same dreamy,
soft,
and effeminate
look.
The
feast, to
which he invited
the inhabitants of
Munggo The
movements were
greatly
by the
which
round their
As we
pigs'
jaws hanging
the inner
gallery
all
room as trophies of the chase. The long was decorated with yellow and red cloths, and
side.
down each
was
on.
Just in front of
filled
with
and two eggs were laid on the top Between the dishes, about twenty in number, were bamboos filled with cooked rice, tasting
uncooked
rice,
of qach dish.
something
like the
rice
The
chief
came
to
me
with
me
to place one of
my
3o6
SARAWAK AND
its
ITS
PEOPLE
water
he then gave
me a bead
had
basin, after
which
and
say, "
wish
that the
village
paddy may be
sons
that sickness
may
people
may ^ive
in
peace and
A
I
when
had
The
contents of the
been
left in front
of
my
The
party
now began
in earnest.
of the bamboos,
fruits
partook of the
us,
provided for
nut milk.
Then came
their
arms over the top of the wooden frames, held the gongs, and drummed at them with their fingers Two women, with their arms completely with a will.
hidden under masses of brass rings and white shell
armlets,
fingers.
crept forward
tips of
my
Then drooping
to
their
move about
They
put their feet close together and shuffled and slid from
to the other,
little
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
the
307
Hornbill's
We
this
was
called
dance.
women
of Sarawak,
dim light their mouths looked like large red wounds across their faces. After the women had danced, two men wound in and out of the people squatting on the floor, and
stood before us.
Under
they wore a
circle
of plaited rattans,
up Cingalese
kerchiefs
fashion,
wound round
They commenced
floor.
about without
from the
They
arms describing
The
sarongs
and of space.
and I thought it beautiful. The dancers were handsome men, with sleek and gerjtle faces, and very arched eyebrows. All their movements were much
When
people,
we
and
language.
He
was
3o8
like
SARAWAK AND
the
like
ITS
PEOPLE
song of
the
birds,
was
he
hooting of antus.
unborn
when they
we were
all
ready to start on
who were
to
down
to the landing-place
wanted
from their
they
However, after severe reprimands chief and from the village authorities,
came to assist us with our luggage. An enormous crowd was required for the purpose, one man taking a saucepan, another two plates, a third
two
bottles of beer, a fourth a handbag,
carried
with
both hands,
until
our
or
divided
so,
Indian
mile
long.
and forming a procession about half a A chair had been provided for me,
(it
way
the
place of the
where our
chiefs,
canoes
were
awaiting
one
who had
been an entertaining talker and had told us about the bamboo superstition, suddenly darted into the
forest
with
on the edge of the path, whence he reappeared a branch of bamboo he had cut with his
parang.
He showed me
the
SARAWAK AND
cane.
"
ITS
;
PEOPLE
309
See
there,"
he said
being."
place of
I
some human
after
good-bye to the chiefs and all the carriers, which we got into the boat. I carried the bit
said
still
of
preserve
it
amongst
my
We
reached
Kuching
after
twenty-four hours'
we embarked on the Rajah Brooke for England. It was a sad day for Bertram and I when we said good-bye to our Malay friends at Kuching. Datu Isa and all her family, accompanied by nearly all the Malay women of the town, came to the Astana to say good-bye. As I stood watching them from the deck of
I felt
a tightening at
my
heart,
and wondered
I
how many
should see
them again, Bertram was really as much touched as I was at leaving them. The Rajah Brooke moved and slowly rounded the reach which hid the away, dear people from sight. Many years have gone by since that day, and yet I may say with truth that
absence from
my
for
my
am
love
and
affection
my
hopes be
I
realized of one
day returning
Sarawak,
sure
have
in the world.
CHAPTER XXXII
BEFORE
tions.
it
might be as
Sarawak
rela-
occupies with
regard
to
its
external
Sarawak under
British
remained
Rajah.
immune from
British
intervention,
was
British
I
Some
years later
received at
Windsor by Queen
and of being
of Sarawak.
presented to
Her Majesty
in
as
^anee
Windsor Castle. At first, I naturally felt nervous, but when the Queen inquired kindly about our Sarawak people my feeling of shyness vanished, and
I
seemed
The
this
Rajah was,
prevented
invitation
Sarawak, and
being included
in
Her
Majesty's
Windsor.
Her
Majesty's
was a compli-
SARAWAK AND
ment
to himself,
I
ITS
PEOPLE
311
country, where
all
to
the
Sarawak and status of its ruler apparently interested him. His Majesty, aware of the manner Sarawak was governed, and after having made inquiries as to the prosperity and well-being of its inhabitants, decreed that the Rajahs of Sarawak
should be given precedence at the
English Court
difficulties
Our
who
are heirs-pre-
titles.
Our
fit
son's
title
of
Rajah
Muda
also
brothers, succession,
who have
certain
the
privi-
We
all
know
that in
succession
of their father.
When
doubly
one
realizes that
we
State,
the
question
stake
becomes
important one.
We
at
run
That
312
SARAWAK AND
hitherto
ITS
PEOPLE
Sarawak should
is
infinitely to the
Ltd.,
Sarawak people. Nor must we forget that immunity from companies of a less scrupulous character is due to the vigilance and
to the detriment of
firmness of the
who
placed themselves
We
must therefore hope that the future Rajah and regime which has so
White Rajahs. It is therefore consonant with the wisdom of the present Sovereign that he should
first
have
occurs,
sought
to
strengthen
the
in
position
of
his
successor,
whenever a
change
sit in
the
succession
by arranging
a Consulta-
tive Council
who would
if
government and
in
The Rajah is fully aware he may see fit to take for the
more
publicly such
it
precautions are
the
made known,
schemes.
to
is
the better
will
be for
is
success of his
Public opinion
SARAWAK AND
opinion that the Rajah
ITS
PEOPLE
313
may
Sarawak
own
of money-grabbing syndicates.
INDEX
Abang Aing, 115-6
Kasim,
162, 163 note
10
Nipa, 140
wife of, 143 Aline, H.H.S., 179, 188, 197 Alligator bird (Bul-bul), 241, 288
Animal
life
Bald-Headed Hawk,
Bamboo burying
bears, honey, 299 bees, honey, 299 buffaloes, 88-9 bul-bul. See Alligator bird centipedes, 81 chik-chak. See Lizards ^
cockroaches, 3
crocodiles, 6, 82-6
224, 231 cane, 308 Bampfylde, Mr. C. A., xxv, 185, 209, 211, 215-8, 221, 229-31, 238, 240, 243, 245, 253, 262 Banting, 56, 60 Baram River, 15, 136, 139 Batang Lupar River, 15, 4-5, 106, III, 119, 123, 258, 262
dogs, 288
egrets, 118, 120
fire-flies,
130,207
lizards, 8i
mice, 274
6, 17, 87-8 mosquitoes, 71, 74, 76, 80, 82, 117 owl, little, 253 paddy birds. See Egrets peahen, 167-8 pheasantrs, Argus, 200 ponies, wild, 64-5 porcupines, 256 rats, 3, 71, 77-9, 80, 1 1 7-8 rhinoceros, 256, 261 roebuck (Kijang), 254 and note sand-flies, 109 scorpions, 81-2
monkeys,
life
sea-serpent, 209-12
8,
shrimps, 74 snakes, 82
Consul appointed to Sarawak, 97 Crown, 97 Government, assistance by, 95 ; scant recognition by, 99 public, 96
ITS
3i6
British
SARAWAK AND
North Borneo
Co., xvii
PEOPLE
(Tuan
Muda),
156-7, 184, 188-9, 201, 209, 215-6, 223, 238, 265, 309
Churches
Protestant, 63 Roman Catholic, 63
312-3
Clerodendrons, 46 Cobra, the, 224, 231, 239 Cockroaches, 3 " Cocoa de mer," 174 Consul, English, appointment -of, to Sarawak, 97 Council of war, 1 1 3 Court of Justice, 66-7 Crespigny, Mr. Claude Champion
de, 137, 139-41, 143-5, 147 Crocodiles, 6, 82-6 legend concerning, 292-3 Crookshank, Mrs., 92
Crops, 44-5
Customs
head-hunting, 34, 38, 46, 55, 68, 102, 155 Milanoe, 138 polygamy, 102 Sir James Brooke's respect for, xxiii, xxiv
Camphor,
Canals, 16
243, 255
40 wounds, treatment
war-yell, 39,
of,
48
humour, 282
lending, love of, 21 note oratory, love of, 113 politeness, 188 reserve, 183 swimming, love of, 18
tact, 234 Chik-chak (lizards), 81
Hakim,
ImEtum,
xxi
101,
no,
Mohammed,
xxi,
182-3
INDEX
Datu Tumanggong, xxi, 20 Death sentence, 103
Deshon, Mr. Harry, 262, 284-5
Dictionary, Marsden's, 23, 25 Doctor, English, 72, 83, 91, 178 Dogs, Chinese, 288 Douglas, Mr Bloomfield, 198-9,
201, 206-8 Dragons, legend of, 175
317
God of Sickness, 265 Gould, Baring, xxv Grass, lalang, 46, 139 Grave, Muhammadan, 163-4, 259, 297 Gutta-percha, 243, 255
Hadji Ahmad, 185, 190-1 Haji Matahim, 209-11 Hajis, 65
299 Dyaks, vii, 16, 34, 65,68, 103, 115,154 Land, 15,297, 299, 304
Sea, 15, 39, 46,48, S3>ii3. 138, 318, 220-1, 223, 231
H.H.S.,
5
3,
9,
42-3,
139
Malay crew,
boy
wrestlers, 206
chiefs, 9, 198
Hindoos, 62, 189 Honey bears, 299 Hose, Dr. Charles, xxv, 241, 258, 274-5 Hose, Mrs., 263
145-6,
Hovering
243
Hawk,
220,
239-40,
305-6
56,
58,
house,
60,
201, 265-6,
Ima,
Imaum, Datu,
20, 161-2
115, 238
basket-making, 237
coal-mining, 88 embroidery, 31-3, 186 farming, 45, 53 note
fishing, 48,
104, 106
74
Exports (Rejang
river),
255-6
Face of Day,
Feast,
224, 245
Munggo
Babi, 305
Fire-flies, 130,
207 Fishing shed, 185 Flags Rajah's, 97 Sarawak, 85 Flowers, native, 17,
See under Animal life Insects. Ireland, Mr. AUeyne, xii, xiv Isle of birds, 259
46, 166,
Jury, 103
Kalaka
river, 15,
54
Gading, 295 Garlic, 212 Gemuti palm, 302 and note George, H.M. King, 31 1-2
Kanowit, schools at, 213 Kanowits, 48, 213 Kapit, 214, 216-8, 221, 238 Kayans, 15, 53, 123-8, 136, 139-47,, 154, 215, 217, 222, 224 dances, 224, 331-4
SARAWAK AND
318
ITS
PEOPLE
vii-ix, 15, 65,
Malayan Archipelago, 97
Malays,
103
chiefs, 66, 90 houses, 289, 295
Kemp,
Mrs., 92 Kenyars, 53 Keppel, Sir Henry, xxii Kijang (roebuck), 254 and note Kirkpatrick, Mr., 260-6
language, 158-62
11, 20, 26-7, 31, 93, loi, 125, 157, 289 Mangroves, 6, 14, 130, 139, 188 Marsden's Dictionary, 23, 25 Matang, mountain of, 11-2, 151,
women,
Knotted string, 112 Kong Kong, 152 Koran, the, 161-2, 297
Kris, 103-4
154, 166
Matu
62-4, 157, 215
river, 15
Labuan, Island of, 136 Lalang grass, 46, 139 Lang Endang, 261 Langmore, Dr., 185, 188, 301, 215,
238, 253, 256, 295 Lawas River, 136
Maxwell, Sir Benson, 2, 260 Mr. Frank, 109, in, 113-6, 129, 260-2, 295 M'^Dougall. See Hose, Dr. Charles Mecca, 5, 27 Mice, 274
Milanoes, 15, 137-8, (Bintulu) 147 Military service,exemption from, 112
Monkeys,
255
6,
(wah-wahs)
17,
87-8,
Monsoon, South-west, 13
North-east, 84 Mosquitoes, 71, 74, 76, 80, 82, 117 Mountain of the Moon, 256 Mountains. See under respective titles, viz., Lingga, Matang, Mountain of the Moon, Poe, Santubong, Sebigi, Singghi Muda Hassim, Rajah, 170
Muhammadans,
graves
of,
15,
90
Muka,
fort,
137-8
Lobok Antu
Lucille,
295, 299 bachelor house, 301 chief of, 305 dances at, 306 granaries at, 300 head -house, 301-3
49,
Ngmah,
216
Nipa palms,
MacDougall, Bishop, 100
Madu, 202
Magistrates, 185, 287 Malaria, 4, 71-5, 78, loi
Octopuses, 187
Officers, Rajah's English, 108
INDEX
Opium, 257 Orang Kaya
Stia,
319
Rajah, 198
Oya
river, 15
Pa Baniak, 291-4
Paddy, 279, 281
Paddy
River plants, 296 Rivers. See under respective titles, viz., Baram, Batang Lupar, Lawas, Bintulu, Kalaka, Matu, Limbang, Lundu, Muka, Oya, Rejang, Sadong, Samarahani, Sarawak, Saribas Roads, scarcity of, 16, 65
Rosario, F. Domingo de, 215-6, 224-5, 228-9, 231, 236 Russell, Lord John, 97
Paku, 287-8 Palmerston, Lord, 97 "Pamale," 140 Panau, 282-3 Pangiran Matali, 1 1 5-6
Sadong
295
Pau Jinggeh,
175
Peahen, 167-8 Pelagus Rapid, 221, 243 Peniamuns, 122 Penus, 234-7 Pepper vines, 2CX3, 287 Pheasants, Argus, 200
Piano, effect
of,
SafHower, 276-8 Saffron, 92 Sago, IS, 137 factory, 137 44, 152 Salaries, official, 108
;
palms,
253-4
on
natives, 69
Samaraham
river,
133
Sand-flies, 109
village, 185
Sarawak
apathy concerning, 108 British protection extended 310 extent of, 136
flag of, 85
to,
Rajah Brooke, S.S., 309 Rajah Muda (Vyner). See under Brooke, Vyner
Rajah's Council, 67, 91, 185 Rajahs, The White, 95-100, 312 Rapids, shooting, 244-5 Rats, 3, 71, 77-9, 80, 117-8 Rattans, 54, 214, 243 Rawieng, 217, 229-31 Reciters, 157-8 Rejang, river, 15, 35, 37, 42, 44,
51-4, 136, 216-7, 243
184,
by England, 97
13
16
of, 1
Sarawak, bay
8, 109-10, 15, 133 Saribas river, 15, 54 Schools, institution of, 163-4 Scorpions, 81-2
Sarawak
river,
Screw
pines, 296
192,
209,
Sea-serpent, 209-12 Seaweed bangle, 173 Sebigi, mountain, 290 Sensitive plant, 152 Sentries, 103, 168 Seripa Madjena, 30-2, 65
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E.
L. T. Meade.
^s. 6d.
Mrs. Molesworth.
Hepsy Gipsy.
L. T. Meade.
-L.
T. Meade.
G. Manville Fenn.
Clark
M.
E.
net
C.
Anna of the Five Towns. Arnold Bennett. Barbarv Sheep. Robert Hichens. *BoTOR Chaperon, The, C. N. & A. M.
Williamson.
Demon, The.
N. and A. M. Williamson.
Baroness Orczy.
Fire in Stubble.
Boy.
Marie
Corelli.
CE. Somervilie
Fiction
Methuen'8 Shilling
*JosEPH IN Jeopabdy,
31
Novels co/itinueof.
Frank Danby.
C.
N.
W. W.
Jacobs.
Spanish Gold.
G. A. Birmingham.
Splendid Brother.
W.
Pett Ridge.
Marie
Corelli.
E. Temple Thurston.
. Phillips OppenSir A.
Tyrant, The.
Virginia Perfect.
Peggy Webling.
Fan,
The.
Robert
the Fisherman.
Marmaduke
thall.
id. net
M.
Croker.
Peter, a Parasite.
Parker.
E. Maria Albanesi.
Sir Gilbert
Broom Squire, The. S. Baring-Gould. By Stroke of Sword. Andrew Balfour. *HousE of Whispers, The. William Le
Queux,
C.
J.
Human
Boy, The.
Eden
Phillpotts.
&
A.
M.
I Crown Thee King. Max Pemberton. *Late in Life. Alice Perrin. Lone Pine. R. B. Townshend. Master of Men. E. Phillips Oppenheim. Mixed Marriage, A. Mrs F. E. Penny.
John Oxenham.
E. NeSbit.
Bertram Mitford.
W.
Pett Ridge.
Printed by Morrison
&
22/8/13