First Draft 2/9/05 Basic Powhatan Indian Clothing for the 21st Century Historical Interpreter

The dress of the coastal Algonquin tribes of North Carolina, Virginia, and Maryland was quite distinctive and ultimately short lived during their initial contact with the English colonists during the late 16th through mid 17th century. By the mid 17th century, many of the Indians were starting to wear English type clothing or portions thereof, and are wearing their own styles adapted by use of woolen cloth obtained through trade. Recreating the dress of the Powhatan people can be challenging because their minimalist attire does not work well with acceptable modern dress standards. Exacting and faithful representations can actually get you in trouble with law enforcement due to conflict with local nudity laws. Because of this consideration, choices of clothing styles and adjustments to them are important to preserve the look of the ancient coastal Algonquin without getting one in trouble with the law or some childs angry mother. Typically in the summer, the Indians, men and women, were wearing only the apron style garments, giving cover only to the front with a single apron for men, and cover for both front and back for women and men of some means and importance. Neither seem to wear any sort of upper body covering during the summer save paint and tattoos. During the winter, upper body coverings consisted of a mantle, either with or without the fur left on. Deerskin leggings and moccasins would be worn and perhaps some type of cape or matchcoat. The Ashmolean Museum in England has in its possession a deerskin cape reputed to have belonged to Wahunsenacah (Powhatan) that is heavy decorated with designs of marginella shells stitched onto the leather. Powhatan is also reputed to have won a great cape of raccoon skins which had the tails still attached and dangling free. Later trade inventories make mention of raccoon matchcoats. Probably the first manifestation of use of European woolen cloth among the Powhatans and their neighbors is the matchcoat. The matchcoat is a piece of wool cloth, typically red or blue, described as being a fathom long (two yards) and an ell and a quarter (about 56 inches) wide. The name mathcoat originates with the Powhatan word matchcore. The matchcoat was worn wrapped about the body and sometimes is described as a robe. This article primarily deals with the construction of the deerskin aprons and attendant garments to accommodate modesty. The aprons would have been constructed from brain tanned deerskin which had the grain removed when the hair was scraped from the hide. The deerskin may have been smoked to give it a darker color. This article will give some guidelines on how to construct and wear the underclout so as not to ruin the image of the 17th c. Powhatan Indian and to keep ones privates concealed from the public. John Whites watercolor paintings of the Secotan Indians on Roanoke Island in North Carolina and Theodor DeBrys engravings based on them, provide useful insight into their Powhatan neighbors to the North. Several of these images are used in this article because of the detail they show. Later representations of Powhatan and Susquehannock Indians also show basic similarities to the Secotan images.

A Powhatan Indian Portrayed J. Goucher, Jamestown Island 2003

First Draft 2/9/05 Basic Powhatan Indian Clothing for the 21st Century Historical Interpreter Double Deerskin Apron In this engraving the Chief of Roanoke is depicted (figure 1). He is shown wearing front and rear deerskin aprons. As a man of wealth and importance, his apron is adorned with two rows of shell beads, pearls, or marginella shells. The deerskin used would have no grain as it would have been removed when the hair was scraped off. In this arrangement, the rear apron is tied on first with a leather thong around the waist and the front apron is tied on slightly overlapping it on the sides. The apron is basically an oval or egg shape piece of deerskin with fringes cut into the ends. When worn, the wider, flatter end is folded down over the waist thong. The rear apron can be shorter and narrower than the front apron. As a concession to modesty and the reality of public historical interpretation, a deerskin underclout should be worn under the aprons. This helps prevent inadvertant and potentially embarassing displays. The underclout consists of a piece of deerskin which has the ends folded over and stitched. A leather thong is threaded through the folded over ends and ties on one side. This is basically buckskin underwear. The rear apron would be tied on first, then the front apron, both such that the wider ends fold down over the waist thong.

Figure 1 - Chief of Roanoke Wearing Front and Rear Deerskin Aprons Engraving by DeBry after J. White Painting

Figure 3 - Deerskin Underclout

Figure 2 - Apron Laid Flat

Figure 4 - Front and Rear Aprons

First Draft 2/9/05 Basic Powhatan Indian Clothing for the 21st Century Historical Interpreter Single Deerskin Apron

Figure 5 - Secotan Warrior

Figure 6 - Susquehannock Warrior from Captain John Smiths Map of Virginia - 1608 and have about 8 inches to hang down in the back. The front edge of the underclout is folded over and stitched so a leather thong belt can pass though it. The thong belt is tied about the waist with the underclout hanging in front. The underclout is pulled back between the legs and pulled up under the thong (figure 7). The thong belt should be tied comfortably about the waist.
FRONT EDGE BACK FLAP

In most depictions of Secotan, Powhatan, and even Suquehannock Indians, a single deerskin apron is being worn. Typically there is nothing covering the rearmost part of the buttocks except perhaps what appears to be a lions tail hanging from the waist somewhat covering the crack (figure 5). It is speculated that this tail is constructed from deerskin (with fur on) using a strip down the back and the tail. The strip from the back would be stitched closed to form a tube which was possibly stuffed with grass or moss. If such a garment were to be worn today in public, compromises must be made so as not to offend anyone or violate any local ordinances. This compromise consists of a deerskin underclout to act as underwear and to give added cover to the buttocks, without ruining the look of the apron. The underclout consists of a piece of deerskin long enough to go from the front to the rear between the legs

Figure 7

First Draft 2/9/05 Basic Powhatan Indian Clothing for the 21st Century Historical Interpreter Single Deer skin Apron - Continued The top part of the apron is folded down over the thong belt (figures 11 and 12).

Figure 8 - Rear View The back flap is then folded down over the thong belt giving the buttocks adequate coverage (figure 8).

Figure 11 - Rear View Complete

Figure 12 - Front View Complete Figure 9 - Apron Laid Flat The apron (figure 9) is held in front and the thong belt is pulled around and tied (figure 10).

Figure 10 - Rear View

First Draft 2/9/05 Basic Powhatan Indian Clothing for the 21st Century Historical Interpreter Mantle Secotan and Powhatan men and women sometimes wore a garment which joined over one shoulder leaving the other shoulder bare. It was somewhat tubular in construction with uneven openings. The upper parts folding over and fringed, the lower part cut similar to the double apron arrangement, also fringed. The mantle can be made from scraped deerskin or in Winter with the fur left on and worn next to the skin. Little can be told of its exact construction, but there looks like there is a side seam on example in figure 14. The mantle probably uses two large deerskins to construct, with additional leather added for larger folk. Representations of a Powhatan Indian who visited England can be seen in figures 16 and 17. The mantle type dress will probably be the most feasible piece of clothing for women as it conceals the chest. Figure 14 - Secotan Indian Sitting to Eat

Figure 13 - Secotan Indian Sitting by Fire

Figure 15 - Elder Secotan Indian Wearing Winter Mantle with Fur On 5

First Draft 2/9/05 Basic Powhatan Indian Clothing for the 21st Century Historical Interpreter

Figure 16 - Powhatan Indian in England Painting

Figure 17 - Powhatan Indian in England Engraving