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Salvinorin-A Infused Papers

August 18, 2006

Extraction technique by sphere, papers by redgreenvines

Photograph sent to me by redgreenvines showing his own home made salvinorin infused papers and chillum pipe
along with a photo of the brand of smoking papers used.

This extraction and refinement method was worked out and written by an amateur experimenter at a time and place where legal to do
so. If you are in Australia or in one of the few locations in the world where Salvia divinorum and salvinorin have become regulated
please do not be encouraged by this document to do something illegal and obey all local laws pertaining to this plant and extract. The
solvents mentioned in this document are very flammable and can be easily ignited by red hot surfaces, open flame, electric or static
spark! I am not an organic chemist and am not a trained professional in a field related to botany, chemistry or the manufacture of
medicines or pharmaceuticals. Because of this I am unable to advise you how to safely handle and work with solvents or advise on
their proper use for the manufacture of human consumable products. This document is not intended to imply that anything produced by
this method can safely be used as a food or drug. If you plan on doing this yourself do not solely rely upon this document as a proper
guide for either the safe use of salvinorin as a drug or the proper manufacture of salvinorin infused materials intended for human

Smoking refined Salvia divinorum extract has been reported to be extremely hit or miss and when misses often leaving salvinorin
residue in the pipe causing the next attempt to burn far too much material with potentially dangerous results in the wrong
circumstances or without a sitter present. One half of a single milligram or 500 micrograms of high purity salvinorin is more than potent
enough for most individuals when this pure and due to the extremely small amount of material this is requires expensive measurement
devices to accurately weigh an amount of salvinorin down to a tenth of a milligram or better. Because of this smoking salvinorin isn't
something I would want to try, even if I have accurately measured the weight of the dose. However, there is another way a friend of
mine came up with which works very well for him and that is to dissolve the salvinorin into solvent and then evaporate it onto cigarette
rolling papers made from corn which hold the salvinorin better than regular tobacco rolling papers.

If you know the solubility of the solvent you are using to drip onto smoking papers or leaf (or what ever) you can get close to a
standardized method of dosing smoking materials. For example, you can dissolve as much salvinorin as acetone can hold at room
temperature (~20 mg per ml) and then use an eye dropper to slowly drip the salvinorin latent solvent onto cigarette papers. If you
evenly spread the fluid across the whole paper and let it dry, depending upon how much fluid was evaporated on the paper and the
amount of salvinorin it contained, you would know the approximate amount of salvinorin distributed on a given portion of the paper, as
long as you are careful to avoid making hot spots where too much solvent has evaporated on one spot causing too much salvinorin to
cake up in one area of the paper.

Smoking high purity salvinorin which has been infused into smoking papers is much safer from a vaporization standpoint
compared to smoking crystalline salvinorin powder itself because the salvinorin is more thoroughly burned causing less salvinorin
residue to be left behind in a pipe. However, one must be very careful with these papers because they are just as potent as
smoking high purity salvinorin itself which if too large of a portion of the paper is smoked can easily result in inhaling a far too
large of a dose no matter how careful you have been to avoid creating hot spots on the papers (explained more below).

Regardless, with care it is possible to get the same high potency effects of smoking crystalline salvinorin itself with less of the risk
of getting too much compared to smoking salvinorin itself. One of the benefits of this method is that only half or less of the
amount of salvinorin is required for the same effects that are experienced when smoking X factor enhanced or standardized leaf.
Here is a quote from redgreenvines who makes these papers explaining how he infuses them with salvinorin using acetone:

I find with acetone that after dripping 8 droplets of acetone from the dropper, the paper is nicely soaked and I can
move onto the next paper - this helps to avoid forming little pools that turn into hotspots - and paper curling also
has to be gently dealt with for the same reason, usually by flipping the paper over between dopings. In a few
minutes the acetone is all evaporated and I can resume.

I like to deposit a total ~20 mg of salvinorin containing acetone to a single cigarette paper and cut it into 48-56
pieces, so that each dose will be from 350 micrograms to 420 micrograms of salvinorin

Redgreenvines has reported that through this method he is able to reliably burn a dose with so little smoke it is
essentially the same as if having smoked the crystalline material itself.

The easy way to get high purity salvinorin with minimal processing to make infused papers

The easiest way I know to obtain salvinorin which is pure enough to make salvinorin infused portions of tobacco rolling papers is
to extract dried whole or crushed salvia leaf in close to zero degree F. or colder acetone from one to four minutes, depending
upon the purity desired. This simple method will extract a portion of the salvinorin from the leaf in a short amount of time while
leaving most of the green or waxy impurities from the leaf behind. Not all of the salvinorin will be removed from the leaf when
doing such a brief extraction, in my experience only a third to half of the salvinorin is extracted from whole or crushed leaf with
just a one to four minute soaking in acetone but what you get is fairly high purity. Because a large portion of the salvinorin is left
behind when doing such a short term extraction be sure to save all of the leaf for a second or third extraction but do not mix the
solvent from the first extraction which is the most pure with the acetone from additional extractions to the same batch of leaf.

By reducing either the amount of time the leaf is in acetone or lowering the temperature of the acetone, or both, the extract will
have far less of the waxy impurities to be extracted from leaf compared to room temperature extractions but at a reduced yield of
salvinorin. I have found that even at temperatures as low as -20 degrees Fahrenheit or -30 degrees Celsius that acetone is still
more soluble to salvinorin than even room temperature 98% ethanol or 99% isopropyl (AKA isopropanol, same thing) which are
both considered good room temperature or warmer solvents for extracting salvinorin. For those of you who might be considering
the use of chilled alcohols for extracting leaf I have tried using 99% isopropyl chilled to 40-50 degrees F. and found this solvent to
be extremely inefficient when chilled that low. I have read a report from a chemist that salvinorin will remain fairly soluble to chilled
high proof 95% ethanol at 40 degrees F. which should reduce the amount of waxy impurities extracted from the leaf, but even
when at room temperature ethanol isnt nearly as quick and thorough extracting the salvinorin from dried leaf as chilled acetone
because acetone maintains a high solubility to salvinorin at temperatures as far down as -20 degrees Fahrenheit. To determine
this fact I tested how much salvinorin could be dissolve into acetone chilled to minus 15 degrees F. and found that it would hold
close to 5 milligrams per milliliter in the dissolved state which is better than three times the amount of salvinorin high proof ethanol
can hold at 70 degrees F.

When extracting the leaf use only enough acetone to completely cover finely crushed or whole Salvia leaf in a stainless steel or
ceramic bowl with close to an inch of solvent on top of the leaf in the bottom. Due to the high solubility of salvinorin to acetone any
more of this amount of solvent would be a waste and making processing more time consuming than it needs to be. I do not
recommend powdering the leaf as I have in the past because recent findings have confirmed most of the salvinorin is coating the
outside of Salvia divinorum leaf which makes extraction very efficient regardless of using extremely low temperature acetone. To
reduce the amount of acetone needed to cover the leaf handing crushing is fine, the amount of acetone to cover crushed leaf
even if crushed as fine as possible by hand is still in excess of the amount needed on a solubility basis. Be sure to stir the leaf
into the solvent the whole time it is in the acetone. Extract the leaf once for one to four minutes, depending upon the purity
desired. When you are finished pour the solvent off of the leaf and into another container and be sure to remove all of the little bits
of leaf which may have escaped into the new container.

This next step is extremely important to net high purity extract! After removing all of the bits of leaf from the fluid cover the bowl of
acetone with aluminum foil or some kind of tight cover and place in a dark relatively cool place and wait at least 24 hours to allow
enough time for most of the ultra-fine sediments from the leaf which have been stirred up into the fluid to fall to the bottom of the
container. When waiting for the fine sediments to fall out of the extraction solvent, in this case acetone, it is very important to keep
the solvent in the dark the to prevent UV interaction with the salvinorin which can decrease and completely destroy the potency of
the salvinorin if the acetone is exposed to strong light for too long, especially direct sunlight. Working with the solvents in direct
sunlight or other sources of ultra-violet light such as florescent lights should be avoided at all times but normal room lighting from
incandescent lights shouldnt be a problem for the short amount of time needed to process the extract.

After you have waited at least 24 hours for the sediments to settle the acetone should no longer have a cloudy appearance and
can now be decanted once more into another container to separate the acetone from the fine particles in the bottom. The acetone
can now be evaporated and done so fairly quickly if using a large flat glass casserole pan as shown in this tech to maximize the
surface area exposure of the solvent to the air to speed the rate of evaporation compared to using a round bowl, but in any case
whether using a flat evaporation container or a round bowl be sure to evaporate the acetone in the dark or at the very least in
subdued light so that ultra violet light will not interact with salvinorin which is extremely sensitive to UV when dissolved into
solvent. Placing a small fan near the evaporation container which is directed so that gentle waves are created in the fluid can
completely evaporate from 1000 to 2000 ml of acetone in a large flat glass casserole container in just a couple of hours.

Warning: Do not place a fan in an enclosed area where the vapors can build which can be ignited by electric sparking of the
internal motor brushes. Also, do not evaporate acetone in a garage near a gas hot water heater because the pilot light can ignite
fumes if they build up too much! Be careful of static or electric spark and of course open flame or red hot surfaces of any kind
which can cause your project, your home and yourself to catch fire.

When the acetone is completely evaporated and the extract is completely dry scrape all of the thin films off the sides and bottom
of the glass with a thin sharp metal blade to net higher purity salvinorin compared to any other simple extraction method. There
will be very little extract compared to a room temperature acetone extraction but what will remain will be fairly high purity with very
little of the waxy impurities that room temperature extractions always produce. Once scraped up the extract can be a yellow-green
to light green color, depending upon how long the leaf was left in the solvent and, as long as most of the fine sediments have
been removed from the acetone prior to evaporation, is likely to be 40 percent or higher purity which can be easily refined to a
purity from 75 to 90% by a single wash of the extract solids with a few ml of 99% isopropyl.

(Continued below)

The following photographs show the extract solids from a one minute zero degree chilled acetone extraction

The crude salvinorin deposited as a thin crystalline film when evaporated in a large glass Pyrex baking dish. If the
extract is used without further purification to remove the dark impurities this will cause the papers to be stained a
green color and when burned will produce more smoke compared to if using near white salvinorin, but still pure
enough to make papers.

Extract solids after evaporation Close-up of evaporation pan

At 45X magnification the extract can be seen to be crystalline Close in view of crystalline extract after scraping into a pile

The above extract came from 6 ounces of crushed leaf extracted at zero degrees F. for one minute.

As you can see the extract solids evaporated out of the acetone from a brief one minute chilled acetone extraction appear
more yellow than green but once scraped off of the glass looks more like the characteristic green of an unrefined
extraction but with far less of the dark waxy lipids you would get with a longer extraction to the leaf whether using chilled
acetone or not. Normally, if I am not trying to produce extremely wax free salvinorin with maximum yield I would use room
temperature acetone which produces an almost black looking waxy residue due to the large amounts of lipid and
chlorophyll impurities but when using 20 degree/~70 degree F. acetone refining the extract takes much longer and far
more effort than when doing a single one to three minute chilled acetone extraction. The higher purity the extract the
lighter colored it will be, from dark green to light yellow and finally white when all of the impurities have been removed.

While working with this extraction I found that a second chilled acetone extraction to the leaf for three minutes yielded
twice as much salvinorin as the one minute extraction which was still pure enough to be able to easily refine the extract
with one 25 ml wash with 99% isopropyl. From this result I recommend a single three minute to four minute chilled
acetone extraction over the single one minute extraction to yield more salvinorin without much sacrifice of purity. To get
the rest of the salvinorin out of the leaf a second three minute chilled extraction will get most of the remaining salvinorin
out but a third three minute chilled extraction will assure you have all of it. Evaporate the acetone from each extraction
separately to net different purity grades of extract.

Further refinement of extract using 99% isopropyl to make papers

Evaporated extract from a 3 minute chilled acetone extraction The same extract scraped into a pile, crushed & mixed
The lighter weight impurities forming a thin dark crust on top

Pour into 30 ml glass Pour in 99 percent isopropyl and stir or close and shake for two minutes
*If you want to make tincture instead pour in 151 Proof ethanol.
If having extracted from 200 grams of dried leaf all it takes to refine the extract enough to paper papers with is one
wash of the extract solids in a shot glass with a few milliliters of 99% isopropyl to remove most of the dark impurities
which will reduce the amount of smoke produced when infused into paper. To wash or refine the extract from a 200
gram chilled acetone extraction of dried leaf I usually only need to do a single wash of the extract with just 20 to 25 ml
of 99% isopropyl in a small one inch wide by 3 inches tall glass but a shot glass will also work just fine for this too.

High purity isopropyl must be used for this process, I have tried 70% isopropyl and found that it will not work, 94
percent might work but I have not tried it to know so if at all possible obtain 99 percent isopropyl. Salvinorin is weakly
soluble to 99% isopropyl at approx. ~1 mg per ml but should be used as sparingly as possible because an amount of
the yield will be completely dissolved into the solvent and washed away with every ml of fluid.

*If you want to make tincture do not refine the extract with isopropanol and dissolve the dried extract solids into any kind of 151 or
higher proof drinking alcohol but be sure that no hint of acetone remains before doing so. To help make sure none of the acetone or
any other solvent remains thinly spread and heat the dry to the touch extract at 125-150 degrees F. in an electric oven for an hour or
more. Do not refine the extract any further for tincture because compounds from the leaf make it more effective.

190 Proof Everclear works best for tincture but 151 Proof also works just fine. Make sure every bit of the extract solids are
completely dissolved into the drinking alcohol and to assure maximum potency tincture only use the amount of drinking alcohol
needed to completely dissolve the extract. Dont store in a freezer because the salvinorin will precipitate back out of the drinking
alcohol when chilled too far. Always store tincture in a dark place to prevent interaction with light. For an effective tincture 190 Proof
should have close to 1.3 mg of salvinorin per ml of fluid, 151 Proof at least 1 mg per ml of fluid. The more water the less it will hold.

Note: An hour or more after the extract has been dissolved into the ethanol extremely fine leaf sediments are likely to be seen in the
bottom of the glass, these fine particles can remain but I usually remove them. If you remove them make sure the brown colored
sediments wont dissolve into a small amount of acetone, wait for them to settle out again and then pour the acetone off and
completely evaporate to see if any salvinorin remains.

The photograph on the left shows how dark the isopropyl will become when mixing extract into the solvent
and on the right the salvinorin in the bottom after settling

Thoroughly mix and then let sit 2 hours. After 2 hours.

Once the extract has been thoroughly mixed into the fluid let the vial of isopropyl sit completely still for one to two
hours, longer if possible to allow enough time for most of the fine salvinorin particles to settle to the bottom of the
glass. After the particles have settled slowly decant the fluid taking care to leave the extract solids in the bottom

Pour the isopropyl off of the solids in the bottom Save the isopropyl poured off of the solids for further processing later
After the extract solids have been washed with isopropyl and still wet with IPA you will find that they stick to the sides
of the glass. To easily get it all out of the glass I usually just pour in a few more ml of clean isopropyl and swirl the
solids into the fluid so the particles dont stick together or on the sides of the container and then quickly dump it all
into a small bowl for complete evaporation before continuing to the next step.

Pour the salvinorin solids into a bowl for complete evaporation Once dry, the color of the extract will be much lighter

When scraped up and mixed together the extract appears even lighter Pour the salvinorin into a small 30 ml glass

After drying, to confirm that the extract is fairly high purity and does not contain sediment impurities crush the fully dried
extract into a fine powder and pour into a small glass, addling about 25 ml of clean room temperature or warmed
acetone and fully dissolve. It should only take two or three minutes to completely dissolve, especially when warm.

Add 25 ml clean acetone and stir, in 2 hours fluid clears. When clear pour off sediments. Evaporate in glass bowl to produce crystals.
So far, I have always found micron sized bits of plant material in the extract which I refer to as sediments, no matter
how careful I am to let it settle out of the chilled acetone used to extract the leaf an amount of it will remain in the fluid
requiring this confirmation step to assure it is all out (as shown in the above photos).

Stir the powdered salvinorin into the acetone for a couple of minutes or for however long it takes to completely dissolve
all of the powder and then put it away in a dark place for one to two hours to allow the sediments to settle to the bottom
of the glass. If all of the powder will not dissolve add more acetone until it all does, you cant use too much acetone for
this but larger volumes of solvent will slow the settling process. After two hours most of the fine sediments should have
settled to the bottom with the fluid becoming completely translucent if all of the sediments have fully settled. The second
photo to the right (above) shows the fluid after waiting two hours, not completely clear but clear enough to pour off for

Waiting a longer period of time until the fluid is crystal clear (although colored) is recommended but not necessary at this
purity. The fluid can be colored from light green to yellow at this purity but should not have much cloud to it before pouring
off of the sediments in the bottom of the glass. Be sure to keep the glass in the dark while waiting to prevent possible UV
interaction from light sources which can weaken the extract. Once clear slowly pour the fluid off of the fine brown particles
in the bottom of the glass into a small 4 inch diameter spice bowl for complete evaporation.

After 1 hour of heat evaporation crystals appear Close-up of salvinorin crystals

Making salvinorin infused papers

Infusing cigarette rolling papers with salvinorin is very easy but care must be taken not to cause too much salvinorin to be evaporated
on any one spot of the paper. The photos show a ceramic cooking dish which has been wrapped with dental floss tying both ends of
the floss underneath the dish. Suspending the cigarette paper on the floss just a half inch above the surface of the dish and dripping
salvinorin dissolved into acetone over the entire surface of the paper without causing pools and then evaporating.

The photo on the upper leaf shows the smoking paper prior to infusion with salvinorin. ~200 milligrams of salvinorin was placed in a
glass vial adding small amounts of room temperature acetone to the glass, stirring for a few moments and adding more acetone until
most of the salvinorin was dissolved, but not all of it. This assures that the acetone is saturated with the maximum amount of salvinorin
it can hold while at room temperature for a more standardized method of doping. Care must be taken not to allow any of the solids in
the bottom of the glass to be sucked up by the dropper, only clear fluid.

The eye dropper I used could suck up 1 ml of fluid at a time which is the total amount of fluid used for each paper, dispersing about
half of a dropper load full across the top of the paper completely wetting from edge to edge and then gently blowing across the surface
of the paper to completely evaporate the acetone before turning over to deposit the second half of the dropper load on the other side.
Due to the room temperature solubility of high purity salvinorin to acetone at approximately 20 mg per milliliter of fluid about 20
milligrams of salvinorin will be infused into a single rolling paper from a half milliliter pass on each side soaking the paper with only 1 ml
of fluid. After drying the paper is cut up into no less than 40 pieces to produce half milligram infused individual portions of paper.

For some individuals a half milligram of salvinorin may be far too strong at this purity, adjust to your own sensitivity. 350 micrograms or
close to 1/3 of a milligram of salvinorin is the amount most individuals find comfortable for a single dose at this purity but everyone is
different, know your own thresholds. It is possible to get too much salvinorin on an area of the paper of the acetone is allowed to pool
up on one spot while evaporating. To prevent this after the paper is half dried I like to pick it up by the edge and try to get the fluid to
move across the paper to keep the pools from drying in one spot. Perfect distribution of the salvinorin through this method isnt going
to happen, but an approximation can be achieved. Careful viewing of the individual pieces of paper will also help to know if salvinorin
has caked up in one spot too much, but without magnification is difficult to see.

The above photograph shows an infused paper with a portion cut out below the gum line to make individual portions for smoking. This
paper was wetted by acetone switching sides eight times for a total of 4 milliliters of acetone to make an extremely potent paper which
contains close to 80 mg of salvinorin which needs to be cut into very small pieces to limit the amount of salvinorin in each portion. The
pieces are somewhat irregular in shape which for me is desirable so that each time I smoke one I get different amounts of salvinorin
for varied intensity of experience without going too far one way or another, choosing either a small or larger piece depending upon how
much I want to get each time.

Whether this method will work to produced reliable doses depends upon how consistent you are when doping them and how much
care is taken to keep hot spots from forming. It is very easy to make these papers too strong or to smoke too much. Making papers this
strong dramatically increases the likelihood of getting too much salvinorin and is not recommended for individuals who are new to
Salvia divinorum or inexperienced with the effects of strong doses. Use this method to make salvinorin smoking papers at your own
risk and always have a responsible sober sitter present whenever smoking them.

Photos submitted by redgreenvines

280 milligrams of salvinorin powder in a shot glass. Dissolved into acetone

14 pieces of tobacco rolling papers ready for salvinorin infusion Close-up view showing the double layer of thread

The above photographs submitted by redgreenvines shows his method of making salvinorin infused cigarette papers. He
takes a shallow metallic plate and first wraps sewing thread around the plate in one direction, places the rolling papers on
top of the thread and then wraps another layer of thread 90 degrees to the first layer of thread holding the papers securely in
place. After infusion of 20 milligrams of salvinorin into each paper is completed he then cuts each paper into 54 pieces so
the pieces have less than 350 mics of salvinorin infused into each divided portion of the paper.

To standardize each paper this closely you must be sure to use the same amount of acetone per paper and be sure that the
acetone contains exactly 20 milligrams of sal-A per milliliter of fluid and knowing how much fluid in a dropper load is so that
you evaporate no more than 1 ml of acetone onto each individual paper. Be careful not to evaporate too much salvinorin
onto one area of the paper to prevent hot spots which can contain far more salvinorin than other areas of the paper.

I prefer to let the papers float on one layer of thread or floss so that I can turn each one over after the acetone has been
evaporated on one side so that I can infuse the other side with salvinorin. As somewhat of a hard head to salvinorin I have
found that I need to infuse each side of a rolling paper with acetone four times over for a total of eight passes, waiting for the
acetone to completely evaporate each pass. Individuals who are extremely sensitive to salvinorin may only need one or two
passes of the acetone, dropper load per pass to make them potent enough for a given portion of paper. I have found that
most of the salvinorin will coat the papers rather than be contained inside the paper itself so when storing the papers make
sure they are not subject to friction which can rub the salvinorin off of them. These papers can remain potent for several
decades or more if stored in a dark cool place away from light.

I do not recommend storage of the extract or smoking papers for an extended period of time in a container where
light can get at them. Although I havent heard exposing dry salvinorin to light affects potency any more than it
does when the leaf grows outside in the sunshine it is a good idea to store salvinorin infused materials in the dark
when not using them. Daniel Siebert recently tested a 40 year old Salvia divinorum leaf specimens and found that
they were just as potent as fresh leaf but I do not know if these samples were stored in the dark or were exposed to
direct sunlight or sources of ultra-violet light over an extended period of time or not.

More ideas for making papers

I am still trying to find a way to infuse the salvinorin in as consistent an amount as possible so that all portions of the paper contain
approximately the same amount but I am finding this difficult. The paper you see in the above photo is typical of what I have been making
for myself (not for sale) as a self medicated natural anti-depressant. I believe the strength across different areas of this paper varies by
about plus or minus 25% from median which is substantial. I tried a small portion of this paper with an area a little less than the size of
Lincoln's head and found it to be about as strong as 1.75 mg of salvinorin infused into regular leaf which is extremely powerful and
disconcerting for individuals new to Salvia/salvinorin. Each of these papers is made from half of a tobacco rolling paper and the ones I have
been making each contain between 25 and 35 mg of salvinorin.

When trying to standardize the papers to make sure that any given portion of them have a consistent amount of salvinorin I have tried using
tweezers to triple soak them by submerging into a pool of salvinorin saturated distilled acetone as one would dip a string into hot wax to
make a candle. I have also tried using an eye dropper to drip distilled acetone saturated with salvinorin onto the papers. The re-dip multiple
submersion method produces the most consistent papers but they are always far weaker than applying the acetone with an eye dropper but
when doing so this method causes portions of the paper to be much stronger than other areas.

Both methods have problems because if the papers are too weak too much smoke is created due to the larger portion of paper needed, if
the amount of salvinorin infused into them varies too much then it is possible to get more than desired from one piece to the other. The
whole purpose of infusing papers with salvinorin is to reduce the amount of material which needs to be burned while at the same time
thoroughly vaporizing the amount of salvinorin which is difficult to do as a powder or crystalline material. With dipping I get consistency but
too much smoke, with dripping acetone onto them I can create extremely potent materials but the consistency is far less.

The probable solution to this is to find a aerosol can which can be filled with acetone which has been saturated with salvinorin to spray onto
the papers with, allowing to evaporate and then spraying again. The mist produced would need to be very fine to be able to consistently
coat the paper this way. Years ago I saw a stainless steel one somewhere which is made for solvents with a top that could be screwed off
and hand pumped. Winder, a member of an online forum suggested the following:

You might need a compressed air powered paint sprayer, such as is used for air-brush art work. I think these can be found that use metal
or glass pots to hold the paint. Since the paints are often solvent-based, such would be required and could be suited for your purpose. Be
sure to catch the over spray with a glass pie plate or something for re-use.

It would probably be a good idea to put a small amount of food coloring in the acetone (if food coloring would work for a solvent too) to allow
a visual indication of consistency. The salvinorin I use looks yellow while in acetone but appears white once dried. Whether smoking a
minute amount of food coloring is a problem or not I have no idea.

As careful as you may try to make them each contain an unvarying amount of salvinorin across any given portion of them, with or without a
sprayer, the amount of salvinorin in different portions of the paper would probably vary too much to make standardization possible without
some kind of lab. If you want to make a standardized version of these papers the only sure way I know of to do so is to cut out smaller
portions of paper prior to infusing them and then dosing each of them separately by evaporating a carefully measured volume of acetone on
each small piece rather than trying to make a single large multiple dose paper.

This above paper was made by incorporating both methods of infusion by first dipping into salvinorin saturated acetone three times,
allowing to dry between submersions and then by applying acetone via an eye dropper to completely cover the paper on both sides twice.
While this produced an acceptable paper the amount of salvinorin distributed across the paper still varied far more than I would like.

Amount of refined salvinorin to be expected from a 3 minute chilled extraction to 200 grams of dried leaf:

After one wash of the extract solids with 99% isopropyl the total yield of salvinorin-A from a single 3 minute -15 degree F. chilled acetone
extraction to 200 grams of crushed leaf (after the brief extraction and refining losses) was 150 milligrams which is enough to make at least
300 individual pieces of rolling paper each infused with 500 micrograms which is more than most individuals would want to dose, be careful.

Reprocessing isopropyl used to purify extract to recover lost salvinorin

The isopropyl used to clean the extract solids can be processed over to recoup a portion of the salvinorin lost to the solvent. As viewed
below, the left most photograph shows the isopropyl from the washes which is evaporated in a bowl which when closely examined shows
that particles of salvinorin still remain. The extract was then scraped up into a pile and placed back into the glass for a second cleaning
using 20-25 ml of clean isopropyl which after a two minute stir to completely dissolve the solids is allowed to sit overnight in the dark to
allow the fine particles of salvinorin to settle to the bottom

Isopropyl poured off salvinorin Isopropyl completely evaporated

Dried solids scraped off glass Poured into glass Washed with isopropyl

The above photographs show the second processing of the isopropyl used to clean the salvinorin solids from the chilled acetone extraction.
After evaporation the IPA coated the glass with a film of salvinorin and other impurities which were easily scraped off and poured back into
the glass for a second wash with 99% isopropyl.

Overnight settling Isopropyl poured off salvinorin Very little remaining salvinorin Poured into glass for evaporation

After allowing the isopropyl used to clean the extract to sit undisturbed overnight the next day I found that some of the salvinorin removed
from the first wash of the crude salvinorin had settled to the bottom of the glass, as seen above in the left most photo. The reason there was
this much salvinorin left over to settle out of the IPA again was due to only allowing the solvent to sit for 1 hour before pouring the fluid off of
the crude salvinorin solids in the bottom of the glass.

If the isopropyl used to clean the extract isnt allowed enough time for the fine particles of salvinorin to completely settle out of the fluid an
unnecessary portion of your yield which is above and beyond the salvinorin which will have completely dissolved into the solvent will be
poured off with the isopropyl, as seen in the bottom of the glass shown on the above left. It isnt much salvinorin, in this case only 10% of
the total amount of salvinorin already refined, but enough to be worthwhile trying to recoup. If you want to avoid having to reprocess the IPA
poured off of the extract best to let the solvent sit for several hours before pouring off of the salvinorin in the bottom of the glass, even if you
cant see these fine particles in the fluid with a flashlight to illuminate the solvent to look for them, sometimes they can be seen but when the
fluid is darkly colored it is difficult to see that the solvent is still clouded by an amount of salvinorin stirred up into the fluid.

Small amount of salvinorin after evaporation. Poured into glass. Dissolved into 10 ml acetone, after 1 hour fluid clears.

The photo on the left shows the salvinorin after evaporation, a very small amount for the effort required to recover it. Once dry the
contents of the bowl were scraped into a pile and poured back into the glass to make sure that it is pure enough or doesnt have
sediments in it. Once the solids were dissolved into the acetone I could see that an amount of fine sediments were still in the extract
because the fluid was immediately clouded. After one hour the impurities settled to the bottom of the glass causing the fluid to return to
a light yellow but clear translucency.

The following photographs show the small amount of fine sediments which have fallen out of the acetone.
When wet these sediments appear a dark brown color but after drying a sandy tan appearance

Pouring acetone off sediments A very small amount can cloud fluid When wet the sediments are dark but when dry a light tan color

These next photographs show that upon evaporation of the acetone crystals of salvinorin were deposited on the glass

Acetone prior to evaporation After evaporation Close up view Magnified 45X shows crystals

Upon final evaporation the acetone deposits a thin film on the glass which may not appear crystalline when viewed with the naked eye
but under magnification crystalline structures can clearly be seen. Re-processing the isopropyl used to clean the extract solids from a
chilled acetone extraction, or room temperature extraction using either alcohol or acetone does not usually yield more than ten percent
of the total amount of salvinorin from the extraction and because of the extra amount of work required is not worth the effort unless
having extracted from a fairly large amount of leaf where the isopropyl washes of the extract solids will cause far more salvinorin to be
lost to the washes. The isopropyl poured off of the salvinorin in the bottom of the glass could be cycled through another refinement
doing the same over again but isnt worth it for what might be left from this 200 gram extraction of leaf.

The following photo shows what the isopropyl poured off of the salvinorin which had settled out
overnight looked like after evaporation which was a shiny and sticky film which took a long time to dry

This shiny film certainly has an amount of salvinorin remaining in it which could be isolated by additional washes with naphtha and then
after drying using isopropyl again, but for the amount of additional salvinorin which probably remains isnt worth the time for me to try to
isolate. If this were a much larger extraction or a regular extraction where the leaf is extracted three times over to get all of the salvinorin out
I would continue working with it but isnt worth the time.

Evaporated remains after 2
recovery of salvinorin from isopropyl
This process is nothing but a bunch of small steps done properly, it isnt hard to do if you take your time. Please be very
respectful of this powerful substance, it isnt something to play around with and should only be used by individuals with sound
mind and clear intent who have fully researched the possible effects from small to high doses.

Dosing and other problems with salvinorin papers

Caution: It is very easy to smoke too large a portion of paper which can cause you to pass out without full inhibition of your muscular motor
control. This problem has been reported to affect at least five percent of the individuals who get too much which can cause them to
unknowingly harm themselves if moving about while out and require a sober responsible adult to act as sitter to assure no harm can come
to them. Other individuals can be come so frightened by the sheer intensity of the experience that they might try to run away from the effect,
stumbling around the room or even trying to get outside! I know it sounds awful to include this kind of warning but it is more important you
know about the possibility than to go into this blind.

Salvia divinorum or salvinorin-A should only be used by responsible adults with clear intent who know exactly what they are doing by first
having fully researched this material on their own to understand what can happen and what the effects are likely to be. While I have never
seen any study to suggest salvinorin has any kind of long term health effects or toxicity, I am not a chemist or doctor and have no real
knowledge on the subject of dosing with salvinorin other than to know how important it is that you fully research the subject on your own
before using this material.

Many individuals may need far less salvinorin than usual when at this purity and infused into such a small amount of material requiring only
half of a single milligram, or 500 mics to achieve extremely strong effects. In other words, a half milligram of salvinorin infused into such a
minute amount of material has been reported to have the potency of more than a full milligram of salvinorin when infused into leaf. Because
of this one needs to be very conservative with the portions used, starting out very small and working your way up until you find a level right
for you. Also, there is a potential that an amount of unburned salvinorin could coat the inside bowl of a pipe which may cause far more to be
burned and inhaled on the next attempt. Because of this it is a good idea to re-burn the pipes bowl between uses to assure that all
salvinorin residuals are burned away between re-loads of these papers or any other material.

If you make these papers I would never give them out to anyone without the warning for them to use them at their own risk due to the fact
they are so easily to smoke they could easily use too large a portion of them. Best to cut them up into fairly small portions so that they might
find out for themselves how strong they are by first trying one, then two and then maybe three pieces together at a time than having them
just cut out a big piece and get too much. I'd cut them up into .125 or 1/8 milligram portions. It only takes about one third of a milligram or
.350 milligrams for strong effect when this pure and infused into so little material. You may be a hard head with enhanced leaf due to the
way all of the other things from leaf affect absorption in your lungs but salvinorin itself or infused papers may get through as if you weren't a
hard head!

Time and place: For most individuals the actual visions induced by salvinorin can be very brief lasting only a few minutes but for most a
light state of inebriation can last for hours which may not be evident at the time. Although the light inebriating effects are usually completely
gone after an hour and a half it is important to wait at least 3 hours after use before operating machinery of any kind. Salvia divinorum and
salvinorin are not substitutes to illicit drugs of any kind and is not a party substance producing purely introspective experiences which are
best done in a darkened room with your eyes closed.

If you are new to Salvia divinorum it is imperative that you have a responsible adult who is already familiar with the effects to act as a sitter.
While I have used from low to moderate amounts of salvinorin without a sitter, the first time I felt the effects of salvinorin I was so
unaccustomed to the feeling that I it was all I could do to hold onto my chair and wait for the effects to end, seeing nothing at all. If I had
been less of a grounded person or had not first researched this subject for many months prior to using Salvia I might have tried to run from
the effects which could have caused me to stumble or hurt myself.


The visions induced by this entheogen are usually very brief, lasting from 5 to 10 minutes for most people but due to the lingering light to
moderate inebriating effects usually lasting a half hour or more using Salvia divinorum anywhere other than the place you will then be able
to rest afterwards such as at home in bed or in a comfortable chair is completely unsuitable and disrespectful of this shamanic entheogen.
Make your experience a safe one, be sure to use a lighter which will automatically turn off after pressure has been released and have an
empty metallic can to place your pipe in right after use! I have written a few common sense warnings here but cannot possibly conceive of
every situation, it is up to you and your sitter to make using Salvia a safe and positive experience.

To date, these papers are not sold to the public by anyone due to the high amount of risk of easily being able to get too much! Anyone who
would be foolish enough to market them for sale on the internet or other places are inviting immediate scheduling of the extract from this
shamanic plant and even the plant itself, so please never consider selling them to anyone whether on the net or at store front location.

January 2007 Addendum:

Q and A from someone who had trouble extracting a very small amount of Salvia divinorum leaf:


"I have the guide for making salvia infused papers. I tried it just now, and my results don't appear to be right.
I used 100% acetone that was refrigerated (so it was about, maybe 40 degrees), I laid out about 20 small S.
Divinorum leaves in a large glass pan, and poured about 14oz of the acetone in it and soaked all the leaves in it. I
mixed it around for about 3-4 minutes, then I poured the acetone out into another dish like the guide said. But, the
acetone looks very clear, it's not green or cloudy at all. What did I do wrong?


I wouldn't even try to make smoking papers from so little leaf, it takes far more skill when working with small
amounts of leaf to refine the extract or even work with it since such little salvinorin can easily be lost as a fine
coating to the sides of the evaporation container. The temperature of the acetone you used was far too warm, 40
degrees F. is about the temperature where the waxy lipids in the leaf start to come over into the acetone. A much
better temperature would be closer to zero degrees F., even better would be minus 20 degrees F. which produces
a much cleaner extraction. When using that much solvent for such a small amount of leaf it wont appear green
until the solvent is evaporated most of the way down. Also, the fluid was not cloudy for a similar reason, far too
much solvent for the amount of fine particles suspended in the solvent to be able to notice them.

A single 3 minute extraction should be done using acetone chilled to close to (minus) -20 degrees F. which will
extract much purer due to the reduced amount of time in the solvent and extreme low temperature. Normally, if I
were extracting leaf to get the majority, if not all, of the salvinorin out I would extract the same leaf two or three
times over with chilled acetone for three to four minutes each time, stirring the whole time. However, if you are
just trying to get some fairly high purity salvinorin to make papers without bothering to refine the extract further
you can do the single three to four minute extraction which leaves about half of the salvinorin behind. You can
always re-extract the leaf separately later, for a longer period of time or a couple of more times over to get what
was left behind but not use it for making papers.

When doing a single three minute extraction about half of the salvinorin is left behind but what you have extracted
should be just pure enough to make papers with. It won't be nearly as pure as is shown in the photos provided in
this article because that salvinorin was highly refined. Also, the papers made from a simple 3 to 4 minute
extraction to salvia leaf using chilled acetone will produce far more smoke when burned compared to highly refined
salvinorin but should produce less smoke than enhanced leaf by a large margin and can be potent enough to be
able to easily get too much salvinorin in one puff or even half a puff, so please be careful.

If you are going to try to extract a small amount of leaf anyway:

To extract fairly high purity salvinorin using chilled acetone you only need to use as much acetone as is necessary
to completely cover the amount of leaf you are extracting but I like to add at least 50% more solvent than is
required to completely cover and soak the leaf. I think that placing the leaf flat on a plate or broad container to
extract it in is much more difficult than using a tall container which allows a brisk stirring of the leaf without worry
of slopping the solvent out of the container. Id just crush the leaf and put it in a jar that is no more than 25% full
of leaf before adding the solvent and then pour in enough solvent to fill the jar half way up.

You could extract whole unbroken Salvia leaf instead of crushing it, I believe that whole leaf extracts cleaner than
crushed or broken leaf but it also requires far more solvent than is really needed, unless using a broad flat pan as
you did but even then you poured in way more acetone than needed. You could have just had a quarter inch of
acetone covering over the top of the 20 leaves you were extracting (if well flattened) and still had way more
acetone than needed on a solubility basis. If extracting finely powdered leaf in a jar the amount of acetone needed
to completely cover it with a little extra covering the top is enough but Id use at least 50% more solvent than that
simply because it is easier to work with and pour off of the leaf.

When extracting leaf to obtain a fairly high purity extract to make papers with, without the intention of further
refinement, only extract the leaf just one time for no more than three minutes, stirring the whole time. When
extracting the leaf, (whether crushed or powdered) after the initial 3 minute extraction is done and you have
poured off all of the acetone into a collection container I would quickly add some more chilled acetone to the leaf
again, enough to completely cover the leaf and then pour it off right away, combining it with the solvent you
collected from the extraction. This will increase the extraction efficiency without adding much more of the dark
waxy impurities because it will wash out some of the residuals left behind in the wetted leaf.

When you are done with the quick rinse of the leaf make sure to get every little bit of the leaf out of the acetone
and then set the solvent aside in a covered container in the dark for 16+ hours. Darkness will make sure that UV
light does not interact with the salvinorin which is extremely sensitive to such when in solvents. After a few hours
the fine leaf particulates which cloud the fluid will start to fall to the bottom of the container, if waiting long
enough the fluid will become clear, although usually colored green. Once the fluid has cleared of all cloudiness,
usually after more than 16 hours, then pour the acetone off of the fine sediments which have settled into the
bottom, evaporate what you have poured off into a small bowl, changing out bowls to smaller ones as more and
more of the acetone is evaporated. If you do that, be sure to clean every little bit of the residues out of the larger
bowl and add to the smaller one!

Note: If only extracting just a few leaves you might not see much if any sediment in the bottom of the container.
Those fine sediments accumulate in large amounts, relative to the amount of salvinorin extracted, if having
extracted a large amount of leaf, such as 50 grams or more, but just twenty leaves might not produce very much
sediment that you can easily see at all.

When you get down to a green colored but solid extract, after all of the acetone is completely gone... you can re-
dissolve the extract into a very small but accurately measured amount of acetone to be dripped on to papers, using
as little solvent as necessary for the amount of salvinorin that can be dissolved into it. To do that you need to know
the weight of the leaf you extracted to estimate how much acetone you will need to dissolve the extract back into,
without using too much acetone.

I suppose you could just add one milliliter of acetone to the extract and stir it in using the tip of a nail or something
and then keep adding one more ml of acetone to the extract at a time until it is all completely dissolved. The idea is to
only use as much solvent as is necessary to completely dissolve the salvinorin, but no more. Why? It's easier to
evaporate onto the papers that way otherwise you have drips all over the place as you try to use it all up or evaporate
it onto a paper, loosing salvinorin with each drop. It is much easier to use as little solvent as needed to evaporate back
onto the paper.

If you want to calculate the amount of solvent needed to dissolve all of the extract into, and if your leaf is of average
potency, which is about 2.5 milligrams of salvinorin per gram of leaf then, for example, the extract from 5 to 10
grams of dried leaf (20 leaves?) would only need about 1 or 2 ml of acetone to re-dissolve the extract into (maybe
more due to impurities) and that 2 ml would contain very little salvinorin, maybe from 5 to 10 milligrams (extracted
that way which is only 50% efficient, or less) which is far too little to easily work with, not even nearly enough to
make a one eighth sized smoking paper (depending upon your sensitivity, of course) which is divided up into much
smaller pieces.

You could make some papers from that small an amount of leaf, it all depends on how careful you were to make sure
that all of the extract is removed from the evaporation container, how much paper you then infuse from that extract
and how many pieces or how small you make each of them. Dope the amount of acetone you have on too big a
portion of paper and except for potency, you might as well be smoking enhanced leaf due to the amount of smoke
produced from the paper alone, make them too small and you will require more than one to obtain much effect. For
my self, I cut them so small that several of them can sit side by side on top of a nickel and then find the amount
which I want to try smoking, starting with just one tiny one and adding one more each time. Since you are working
with so little leaf to begin with, you would not be able to start slowly and work your way up without smoking up too
many of the papers before you find the right amount simply because you don't have very much to work with.

Dont forget the last possibility, smoke too large a piece regardless of how much salvinorin is on it per squire
millimeter you will be getting too much salvinorin! You have got to know the approximate amount of salvinorin you
have deposited upon the paper to have an idea how small to cut them and even then there can be large variations to
the amount of salvinorin on any given piece, depending upon how well you did.


One last time, if you choose to smoke high purity salvinorin enhanced materials, or salvinorin itself do so at your
own risk. Always have a responsible and sober adult present if choosing to use Salvia divinorum or salvinorin.
Individual sensitivities vary, some requiring far less, others more! Keep away from adolescents.

Copyright 2006, 2007.