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Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

BERLIN
April - May 2012
N56 - 1.75
berlin.inyourpocket.com
In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.
The New York Times
New design and
maps
Berlin, district by district
Berlin tours
Guided walks, drives
and cruises
3
CONTENTS
April - May 2012 berlin.inyourpocket.com
Basics 5
Essential travel tips
Arrival & Transport 6
Getting around by S&U
Culture & Events 8
Roll up for theatre, shows and cinema
Berlin Mitte 11
The delights of the city centre
Berlin Charlottenburg & The West 30
Genteel western Berlin
Berlin Prenzlauer Berg 40
The gentrified north
Berlin Friedrichshain 44
Workers paradise, students playground
Berlin Kreuzberg 46
Immigrants, anarchists and hipsters
River Cruises 55
Sailing down the Spree
City Tours 56
Guided walks, bike rides and drives
Directory 59
Maps & Index
Street register 60
Berlin city map 61-63
Berlin public transport map 64-65
Index 66
Contents
Wall graffiti by artist Thierry Noir JvM
BERLIN PLAZA HOTEL
Knesebeckstrae 63/Kurfrstendamm 10719 Berlin
Tel.: 030/884 13-0 Fax: 030/884 13-754
www.plazahotel.de
www.restaurant-knese.de
www.parken-am-kudamm.de
http://blog.plazahotel.de
Tel. ++49(30) 88 41 30 Fa ++49(30) 88 41 37 54
2 % 3 4!52 !.4
KNESE
!UTHENTIC"ERLIN
CUISINEATITkSBEST
Knesebeckstrae 63
tel. 884 13-0
www.restaurant-knese.oe
Scattered throughout the guide youll find boxes with
more information about these topics;
Art galleries in Berlin 59
Cold War Berlin 24
Hotels in Berlin 32
Shopping in Berlin 39
Souvenirs in Berlin 59
Third Reich Berlin 24
Berlin in boxes
The defunct USA listening post at Teufelsberg JvM
4
Berlin In Your Pocket
FOREWORD
berlin.inyourpocket.com
5
BASICS
April - May 2012 berlin.inyourpocket.com
a maximum of 90 days in any six month period. All other
nationals need to apply for a German visa in advance. Note
that there's no passport control between Germany and the
other 14 European 'Schengen' countries, and visas to any
of these are valid for travel in Germany too. All visitors need
a passport that is valid for at least fourth months from the
date of arrival; EU citizens can enter with a valid EU identity
card too. Check the MFA website for the latest immigration
details: www.auswaertiges-amt.de.
Editorial
Editor-in-Chief Jeroen van Marle
Editorial contributors Philippe Krger,
Christina Knight
Research Lisa Kaczmarek,
Cecilia Engvall
Layout & Design Tom Haman
Photos Jeroen van Marle (JvM)
Maps Kartographie Eichner,
kaeichner@online.de, www.ellomap.de
Cover: Rfoxphoto | Dreamstime.com
Sales & Circulation
General Manager Stephan Krmer
Production Manager Philippe Krger
Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt
Advertising Managers
Philippe Krger, Corina Al t
The summer tourism season has arrived, and
weve been busy doing some spring cleaning here
at Berlin In Your Pocket. The city guide has
been completely revamped; our reviews are now
arranged by city district, so its easy for you to
wander around each of Berlins exciting Kiez areas
with the guide in your pocket, selecting interesting
sights, restaurants and bars as you stroll. Our new
district maps and Pocket Walks will help plan
your adventures. There are also dozens of fresh
reviews, a new city map at the rear of the guide
and new chapters with city tours, transport and
basic travel information. Bitte schn, our pleasure.
Berlin hasnt been sitting still either, and theres
a ton of fun to be had at the many exhibitions,
concerts, parties and other events planned for April
and May.
Well be fine-tuning our brand new guide over the
summer, and your comments and suggestions
are, as always, much appreciated via berlin@
inyourpocket.com. Enjoy our new guide, and enjoy
Berlin.
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket
GmbH 2010-2012. All rights reserved. No
part of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name In Your
Pocket is used under license from UAB
In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius,
Lithuania tel. +370 5 212 29 76).
Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearl y marked as such. We welcome all
readers comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
In Your Pocket GmbH
Axel-Springer-Strae 39
10969 Berlin
Tel: +49 30 27 90 79 81
Fax: +49 30 24 04 73 50
germany@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1611-9037
In Your Pocket GmbH
Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin.
Circulation: 20,000 copies bimonthl y
The public transport map is used
under license no. BVG-0079.11.
Since the fall of the Berlin Wall
around 20 years ago, Berlin
has experienced breakneck
change: i ts i nfrastructure
was moderni zed from the
ground up, while entire city
districts were either created
from scratch or thoroughl y
remodeled. Moreover, Berlin
has become a capi tal not
only in the political sense, but
culturally and intellectually as well. As a result, it is now
considered one of the most exciting and diverse cities
in all of Europe.
Berlin finds its positive image reflected in its tourist
industry statistics: more and more people are visiting
our city to see its countless attractions for themselves.
These i ncl ude, for exampl e, the ubi qui tous traces
of a turbulent and emotional history and the ci tys
compelling museums, which invite you to browse the
worlds cultures. The contemporary art scene, too, has
long since found a home in Berlin, proof of which can
be seen in the citys hundreds of galleries, many stellar
collections often exhibited in innovative settings
and, most recently, the new temporary art gallery in the
heart of the city.
Great art can of course also be experienced in Berlins
opera houses and its many renowned theaters. Its
wi de range of orchestras i ncl udi ng the Berl i ner
Phil harmoni ker, the Staatskapell e, the Deutsches
Symphonie Orchester, the Rundfunksinfonie Orchester,
and countless others is unmatched in its quality and
diversity. And lets not forget Berlins exciting club scene
and the many di fferent restaurants, pubs, and bars
that make the city the place to be for anyone looking for
cosmopolitan flair and the latest trends.
In this spirit, I would like to wish you an eventful stay in
Germanys capital city welcome to Berlin!
Klaus Wowereit
Lord Mayor
From the mayor
The Brandenburger Tor ci ty
gate stands proudl y at the
wester n end of Unter den
Linden Boulevard. Since it was
built in 1792, it has been the
backdrop to violent revolutions,
mi l i tar y parades, i nvasi ons,
demonstrations and the Berlin
Wall and survived to tell the
tale to the millions of tourists
who come to suck up Berlins
history every year. See the Mitte
chapter for more information.
Cover story
It has been a busy start to the year for In Your Pocket,
with a brand new guide published in Italy (Cagliari), and
many more in the early stages of production, including
what will be our first guide in Belgium (Ghent). We have
also just launched a new version of our iPhone app,
which can now be downloaded from the AppStore.
Search for IYP Guides.
The number of cities we cover has now climbed
past 75, and the number of In Your Pocket guides
published each year is approaching an amazing five
million. To keep up to date, like In Your Pocket on
Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow
us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). You can
also now follow our tips on Foursquare (foursquare.
com/inyourpocket).
Europe In Your Pocket
Czech
Republic
Poland
Romania
Serbia
Bosnia
Kosovo
Albania
Greece
FYR Macedonia
Bulgaria
Montenegro
Italy
Croatia
Slovenia
Austria
Switzerland
Ukraine
Belarus
Lithuania
Latvia
Estonia
Russia
Germany
Netherlands
Northern
Ireland
Ireland
Drinks & Alcohol
Germans like their beer, drinking about 107 litres per capita
per year (down from 136 litres 15 years ago). Unfortunately
Berlin's local brew, the slightly sour Berliner Weie, is only
really palatable 'mit Schuss', with a shot of sweet fruit sirup.
Cocktails and long drinks of varying quality and price are
available in a multitude of places. Non-alcoholic drinks often
sipped in Berlin include Apfelschorle, a refreshing mix of apple
juice and sparkling water, and Club-Mate ('kloob mah-tea')
ice tea, made with extract of the South American mat plant,
caffeine and tannins, and is popular with local hipsters as it
comes in a screw top bottle so you can hiply tote it around
(or drink to just below the top label and top it up with wodka).
Crime & Safety
Berlin is a relatively calm and safe place. Instances of
petty crimes are low compared to other Western European
capitals, though you shoulds still always keep an eye on your
valuables and never leave bags, wallets and mobile phones
unattended. Just like anywhere else, be careful when walking
in unlit streets late at night. Race-related hassles seldom
occur in Berlin's touristed central areas.
Electricity
Electrical current in Germany is 220v AC, 50 Hz via standard
European round, two-pin sockets. Converters can be bought
at the airport and large electronics shops, and many hotels
will have them at the front desk too.
Money
Germany uses the euro (). Banknotes come in denominations
of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. Coins, whose
design depends on in which country they were minted, come
in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents and 1 and
2. Credit and debit card payment is possible in a wide range
of shops, restaurants and nightlife venues, though always
have cash on you for small payments just in case. This guide
indicates which places do not accept plastic. ATMs can be
found everywhere; those that charge for transactions clearly
indicate the fee during the process. Exchange offices can be
found at the major train stations.
Visas and entry formalities
EU citizens can stay in Germany as long as they like, though
registration at a Brgeramt office is officially required
for stays more than a few months. Citizens of Australia,
Canada, Hong Kong, Japan, Malaysia, New Zealand, Mexico
USA and a few others can enter Germany without a visa for
Population: Germany: 81,751,602; Berlin: 3,460,725
Longest river in Germany:
Rhine, 1319km. The Spree is 403km.
Highest point of Germany: Zugspitze, 2962m
Highest point of Berlin: Teufelsberg, 114m
Highest natural point of Berlin:
Victoriapark Kreuzberg, 66m
Berlins territory: 900 square kilometers
Basic data
Climate
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6
TRANSPORT
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
7
TRANSPORT
April - May 2012 berlin.inyourpocket.com
Although Berlin is lodged in the middle of the great empty
vastness of northeast Germany, its very well connected to
the rest of civilisation by bus, train, Autobahn and air. Once
in Berlin, youll wish that your home town had such good
public transport.
Car Rental
Expect to pay from 70-100 for a day of rental with 100-
200km included, much less at local budget companies
such as Starcar. Booking via a broker website such as www.
rentalcars.com or www.autoeurope.com can save money.
Taking rental cars out of Germany is often restricted; check
in advance.
Avis D-4, Budapester Strae 43, Charlottenburg, MS/U
Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 230 93 70, www.avis.
de. Also at both airports. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00
- 14:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00.
Budget D-4, Budapester Strae 24, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 41 01 33 64,
www.budget.de. Also at both airports. Rental from 95
per day. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun
08:00 - 23:00.
Europcar G-3, Alexanderplatz 8 (Park Inn Hotel),
Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 240 79
00, www.europcar.de. Also at both airports. Q Open
24 hours.
Hertz C-4, Budapester Strae 39, tel. +49 30 261 10
53, www.hertz.de. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 -
16:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.
Starcar D-4, Schillstrae 10, Tiergar ten, MU
Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 257 57 70, www.starcar.
de. Also at Prenzlauer Promenade 43, Pankow, and Grenzallee
4, Neuklln. QOpen 07:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 12:00, Sun
09:00 - 10:00.
Cycling
As l ong as i ts dry, getting around Berlin is reall y best
done by bi cycl e. I ts a flat ci ty, there are pl enty of cycl e
paths and wi de bus lanes for you to use and you see so
much more from the saddl e than from the U-Bahn train
wi ndow. Note that cycli ng on the pavement is ill egal,
even though everyone does i t, and may get you fined.
Getting across town may take a whil e, though for 1,50
you can take your bike on an S/U-Bahn train too. There
are dozens of bike rental places, most charging 10-12
for the first day. The urban bike trip planner www.bbbike.
de can suggest l ow-traf fi c and cobbl estone-free routes
across Berlin.
Driving
With wide roads, calm traffic and ample parking, Berlin is one
of the easiest European capitals to navigate by car, though
for city centre sightseeing public transport is definitely easier.
Day visitors are advised to Park & Ride; leave your car for
free at a dedicated S-Bahn station and continue by S-Bahn
train. Arriving on the A10 highway use Buch station; A100 -
Innsbrucker Platz; A111 - Jungfernheide; A113 - Bundesplatz;
A114 - Pankow; A115 - Heidelberger Platz.
All cars entering the city centre within the S-Bahn ring (and
many other German green zones) must have an Umwelt-
Plakette (Environmental badge sticker, from 29,90), which
can be ordered online via the Climate Company, www.umwelt-
plakette.de, tel. +49 30 398 87 21 40, or purchased from
Dekra and TV garages around Berlin.
Long-distance buses
All buses pull into the west side of the city the Zentraler Om-
nibusbahnof (ZOB). Lugging bags to the Messe Nord station
might be a drag, so catch bus M49 from the Messedamm/
ZOB bus stop directly to S/U-Bahn station Zoologischer
Bahnhof. Bus tickets can also be purchased via the ZOB
Reisebro travel agency (www.zob-reisebuero.de).
Public transport
Berlins integrated network of S-Bahn (Schnellbahn com-
muter trains run by DB) and U-Bahn (Untererdische Bahn,
underground trains), bus, and Straenbahn (trams) run by
BVG usually works like a dream. Just remember the number
or colour and end station of the U or S-Bahn line you want to
use, and youll be navigating the labyrinth-like stations like
a local. Most S/U trains, buses and trams run every 5-15
minutes during the day. You can go play the night owl, as
the nightime transport options are excellent; M buses and
trams run every half hour at night; U-Bahn trains run every
15 minutes on weekend nights, with N buses following the
their routes every half hour on weekday nights.
Buy a 1.40 Kurzstrecke (short distance) ticket if you want
to travel up to three S/U-Bahn stops, or up to six stops by
bus or tram. If you anticipate a lot of travelling, get the Tag-
eskarte (day card, valid until 03:00 the next morning; 6.30)
or the seven-day pass (27.20). Groups of up to five people
are best off with a Kleingruppenkarte (group day ticket,
15). The BVG, tourist office, and hotels sell the multi-day
Berlin Welcomecard which is valid for transport and some
attractions; see elsewhere for more details.
Before boarding the S- or U-Bahn, al ways validate your
ticket by punching i t in the yell ow or red machines near
the end of the platforms. On buses and trams, the ma-
chines are on board. Publi c transport uses the honour
system, and there are regular checks by uni formed and
pl ai ncl othes inspectors. I f you are caught wi thout a
ti cket (or wi th an unvali dated one) youll be fined 40
on the spot.
BVG tel. +49 30 194 49, www.bvg.de. The Berliner
Verkehrsbetriebe run the U-Bahn, buses and trams. Their
handy trip planner can be found at www.fahrinfo-berlin.de.
Taxis
Berlins friendly and ubiquitous beige Mercedes taxis can
be called or hailed on the street. They can also be found
queing at S/U-Bahn stations and near nightlife hotspots.
Not all taxis accept credit cards, ask when you book. Prices
are the same day and night; flagfall plus the first kilometre
is 3,40; then up to 7km its 1,65/km, thereafter 1,28/
km. Waiting costs 25/hr. For short hops hail a taxi already
driving in the direction you need to go and immediately ask
for the Kurzfahrstrecke tarri ff; 4 for 2km. By the way,
Funk means radio.
City Funk tel. +49 30 21 02 02, www.cityfunk.de.
Funk Taxi Berlin tel. +49 30 26 10 26, www.
taxifunkberlin.de.
Spree Funk tel. +49 30 44 33 22, www.taxi443322.de.
WBT Funk Taxi Berlin tel. +49 30 26 10 20, www.
funk-taxi-berlin.de.
Wrfel-Funk tel. +49 30 21 01 01, www.wuerfelfunk.de.
By plane
Tegel airport (TXL) is 7km northwest of the city centre.
Behind the airport information desk in the main hall are
the BVG public transport ticket office and the luggage
office. Nearby are a post office and ATMs. The TXL bus
runs every 15-20 minutes between 05:00 and 23:30,
and is the quickest connection to Hauptbahnhof station,
Unter den Linden and Alexanderplatz. Bus X9 (every 5-10
minutes from 04:50 to 23:00) gets you to Zoo Bahnhof
in 20 minutes. Tickets can be bought from the BVG, the
machines outside or from the driver. A taxi to the city
centre will cost about 18.
Schnefeld airport (SXF) is 20km southeast of the city
centre. Walk or use a bus shuttle to get to the nearby
S-Bahn and railway station. An Airport Express train from
here reaches the city centre in 30 minutes; the S-Bahn
take about 40 minutes. Take bus X7 to U-Bahn station
Rudow for Kreuzberg. For all these options youll need
an ABC zone ticket (3).
By train
All trains stop at Berlins gleaming, glass-sheathed
Hauptbahnhof main station which has all the essentials;
a supermarket, post office, toilets, showers, lockers and
a tourist information centre. Some international trains
also stop at Ostbahnhof, which is handy for Kreuzberg
and Friedrichshain.
By bus
Buses drop you off at the Zentrale Omnibusbahnof (ZOB),
west of the city. The Messe Nord/ICC S-Bahn station is
nearby, but catching the M49 bus to S/U-Bahn station
Zoologischer Bahnhof will get you to the city centre faster.
Arriving in Berlin
The Prussians certainly missed a trick when they decided
it was a really smart idea to number houses up one side
of the street and back down the other. Number 1 may well
be opposite number 453. Thankfully, most Berlin street
name signs indicate which numbers can be found along
each block. The peculiar German letter , pronounced
as an s, is used in the word for street, Strae. Some
common German street-related words:
Allee avenue
Platz square
Strae street
Tor gate
Ufer riverbank
Street smarts
Berlin Infostore E-2, Hauptbahnhof station, Mitte,
MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 25 00 25, www.
visitberlin.de. The helpful staff at the official Berlin
tourist offices can provide a wide range of information
and publications. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Also at F-2,
Brandenburger Tor south wing (open 09:30 - 18:00);
C-3, Kurfrstendamm 22 (passage, open 10:00-20:00,
Sun 9:30-18:00).
Tourist information
Discounts are a welcome relief, so if you are planning to
travel around town a lot and see more than one museum,
get a reduced rate cards.
Berlin WelcomeCard , www.berlin-welcomecard.
de. The Berlin WelcomeCard is a combined transport
and reduction card (museums, bike tours/rental, boat
tours, etc) valid for zone AB or zone ABC (which includes
Potsdam and Schnefeld airport). Cards are valid for 48
hours (AB 17,90, ABC 19,90), 72 hours (23,90/25,90)
or 5 days (30,90/35,90). The 72-hour Museumsinsel
Card (34/36) also includes admission to the permanent
collections of those museums. Cards are sold from BVG
ticket machines, tourist offices, S-Bahn offices, hotels and
kiosks. The similar CityTourCard (www.citytourcard.com)
is 1 cheaper and is geared towards younger travellers
with restaurant, bar and club discounts. Students/youths:
you may get better reductions at museums using your
student ID cards.
Get2riCard , tel. +49 30 438 09 80, www.get2card.
de. A 7-day tourist discount card costing 24 that allows
you to get two for the price of one, whether i ts the
admission to a club, museum, cinema, nights at a hostel
or hotel, or food and drinks at a wide range of bars and
restaurants. For sale at most theatre ticket agencies.
Museum Pass Berlin , www.smb.museum. The
permanent collections of the Staatliche Museen (state
museums) and various others (57 museums in total) are
free wi th the 19/9,50 three-day Schaulust Museum
Pass, for sale at the museums and tourism offices.
Transport & Sights Cards
For 25 years, the first of May, Labour Day, has been a day
of left-wing protests in the eastern part of Kreuzberg. On
this day in 1987 authorities used extreme force against
protesters from the squatter movement, resulting in
riots, street barricades and the plundering and torching
of shops. Ever since, the annual demonstrations often
end up in running street battles with the well-prepared
riot police, and the burning of parked cars deemed too
bourgeois.
Nowadays the annual baiting game with the police is
almost a traditional event, and thankfully for peaceful-
minded visitors theres a good reason to visit Kreuzberg
that day; the Myfest party (www.myfest36.de) on
Oranienstrasse, Heinrichplatz, Mariannenplatz and in
adjacent streets. Theres music on a dozen stages,
food, and a friendly family atmosphere. This street party
is safely reached from the Moritzplatz U-Bahn station.
25 years of Mayday
U-Bahn train arriving at Mrkisches Museum
8
CULTURE & EVENTS
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
9
CULTURE & EVENTS
April - May 2012 berlin.inyourpocket.com
Berlin is blessed with a large number of quality theatres
and halls, top-quality artists and relatively cheap tickets
- and an annual cultural budget of over 900 million to
fund it all.
Opera & Classical Music
Deut sche Oper B- 3, Bi smar ckst r ae 35,
Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche Oper, tel. +49 30 34
38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.de. A functional,
introvert 1960s building houses the onl y opera stage that
was available to West Berliners during the Wall era. Q
Tickets 16-122.
Komische Oper F-3, Behrenstrae 55, Mitte, MU
Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20 26 00, www.
komische-oper-berlin.de. Starting off as the Theater Unter
den Linden in 1892, the buildings monumental neo-baroque
main hall survived wartime bombing, and reopened in 1947.
It shows classic music, ballet and opera pieces. Translations
in English are shown on a screen on the seat in front of you.
Q Tickets 9-150.
Konzerthaus Berlin F-3, Gendarmenmarkt 2, Mitte,
MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 203 09 21 01, www.
konzer thaus.de. Together wi th the Deutscher and
Franzsischer Dom churches, the Konzerthaus forms Berlins
most spectacular architectural ensemble. Buil t by Friedrich
Schinkel in 1821, i t was destroyed in the war and onl y
reopened as a concert hall in 1984. The Berliner Sinfonie-
Orchester plays at the venue. Q Tickets 10-99.
Philharmonie E-4, Herbert-von-Karajan-Strae 1,
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48
89 99, www.berlin-philharmonic.de. The crumpled-looking
yellow modernist building behind the chrome gli tz of the
Potsdamer Platz developments was once just as revolutionary
as its new neighbour. The excellent Phil orchestra is directed
by Liverpudlian Sir Simon Rattle. Q Tickets 7-220.
attend a party in the 18th century. Guests can combine
the concert wi th a tour of Charlottenburg castle or a trip
on the ri ver Spree, and dinner amidst hundreds of candles.
Q Dinner 18:00, concert 20:30. Tickets 29-79.
Blue Man Group E-4, Marlene Dietrich Platz 4, Mitte,
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 18 05 44 44, www.
bluemangroup.de. The (qui te li terall y) Blue Man Group
has been wowing audiences for years at their Bluemax
Theatre, with a show that is a kaleidoscope, a whirl wind, a
puzzle, psychedelic, and many more adjectives that people
just havent managed to sum up the visuall y and musicall y
powerful show with. The few texts that are spoken are in
English. Q Shows Tue, Fri 21:00; Wed, Thu, Sat 18:00, 21:00;
Sun 18:00. Tickets 65-77.
Friedrichstadtpalast F-3, Friedrichstrae 107, Mitte,
MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 23 26 23 26, www.
friedrichstadtpalast.de. No one does over-the-top better
than the producers and long-legged dancers and acrobats of
Friedrichstadtpalast. This venue normally puts on the glitziest,
biggest revues in town. Q Tickets 19-95.
Madi-Zelt der Sinne B-1, Bernhard-Lichtenberg-Platz,
Reinickendorf, MU Holzhauser Strae, tel. +49 30 43
00 42 72, www.madi-zeltdersinne.de. A cozy, Moroccan
royal-style tent where youll be whisked away to the Orient with
a Middle Eastern four-course meal and 3.5-hour show with
belly dancers, story-tellers, musicians, acrobats, and jugglers.
Q Shows Wed 20:00, Sat 19:30, Sun 11:00. Tickets 33-79.
Ti pi am Kanzl eramt E- 3, Gr oe Queral l ee,
Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, tel. +49 30 39 06 65 50,
www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Continuing a tradi tion that
started a century ago in Berlin, the Tipi team wine, dine and
Staatsoper im Schillertheater C-3, Bismarckstrae
110, Charlottenburg, MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49
30 20 35 45 55, www.staatsoper-berlin.org. Temporarily
housed in the Schillertheater until renovations of their grand
theatre on Unter den Linden are completed in 2013, this is the
venue for Daniel Barenboims award-winning Staatskapelle
orchestra. Q Tickets 14-220.
Shows
Theres always something on in Berlin; these venues often
have revue-style shows suitable for a foreign audience. The
prices listed here indicate the cost of regular tickets, which
may fluctuate depending on the show or day of the week.
Admiralspalast F-3, Friedrichstrae 101, Mitte,
MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.
admiralspalast.de. This former army bathhouse was
famous for its cabaret, operetta house, spa and brothel in
Berlins roaring 20s. Hitler cleaned up their acts in the 1930s,
installing a private box so that he could watch his favourite
operetta The Merry Widow, and Brecht tried out his new
theatre here from the 1950s. With several theatres, it now
puts on plays, concerts and musicals. Q Shows Tue-Sun
20:00. Tickets 21-79.
B e r l i n e r R e s i d e n z
Konzer te B-3, Spandauer
Damm 22-24, Charlottenburg,
MS Westend, tel. +49 30
526 81 96 96, www.
concer ts- berl i n.com. The
Berl i ner Resi denz Orchestra
pl ays famous Bar oque- er a
wor ks by candl el i ght , wi t h
musi cians in period costumes
- a unique opportuni ty to get a
good idea of what i t was like to
Tickets can be purchased at the venues, via hotel
concierges, at ticket offices (also in major department
stores) and online.
Eventim tel. +49 180 557 00 70, www.eventim.de.
A good online booking service with event tickets mailed
or available for home print.
Hekt i cket C- 4, Har denber gst r ae 29d,
Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel.
+49 30 230 99 30, www.hekticket.de. Ticket shops
and online sales (for pick-up or mailing onl y). Reduced
same-day tickets for shows and attractions are available
after 14:00. Also at Karl-Liebknecht-Strae 13, Mitte.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.
Koka 36 H-4, Oranienstrae 29, Kreuzberg, MU
Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 10 13 13, www.
koka36.de. Kreuzbergs Konzertkasse has tickets in
their shop and online (German onl y), for mailing and pick-
up. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Papagena tel. +49 30 47 99 74 44, http://khs.
papagena.de. Regular and reduced price tickets for
classical music, opera and theatre. Call for English-
language service.
Event tickets
entertain guests for an evening in their elegant year-round
tent in Tiergarten park. Before the show starts, gourmet
food is served. Then i ts over to the artists featured that
ni ght to enter tain the audi ence. Q Shows 20:00, Sun
19:00. Tickets 15-45.
Wintergarten Varit E-4, Potsdamer Strae 96,
Tiergarten, MU Kurfrstenstrae, tel. +49 30 58 84 33,
www.wintergarten-berlin.de. One of Berlins famed variety
theatres was revived here as a dinner theater. Seated around
tables, youll enjoy a show with acrobats, magicians, clowns,
jugglers and more. Before the show, waiters take orders for
meals which are served during the break. New shows are
put on several times per year. Q Shows Wed-Sat 20:00,
Sun 18:00. Tickets 25-60.
Berlins grooviest hotel is well-known for its relaxed Jazz
brunches, held Sundays between 11:30 and 14:30 in
the Duke restaurant. A set fee allows you to sample
anything from the buffet, while talented Jazz musicians
take care of the atmosphere. Performances for April are
the Jeffrey Dimen Duo on the 8th, the Craig Burton Duo
on the 15th, the Yamil Borges Duo on the 22nd and the
Denisa Duo on the 29th. The Ladies Styling Dinner, every
Tuesday and Thursday in April, gets you an evening of
hair and make-up treatment followed by a three-course
meal. Their Fit@Lunch promotion includes a 30-minute
massage followed by lunch.
Ellington Hotel, D-4, Nrnberger Str. 50-55, tel.
+49 30 68 31 50, www.ellington-hotel.com.
Ellington Hotel events
Enjoy classical concerts and a festive dinner in royal
surroundings. Baroque-era culinary deli caci es and
musical masterpieces are combined in the magical
surroundi ngs of the extravagant former summer
residence of the Hohenzollern dynasty.
April 4, 6, 7, 11, 13, 14, 18, 20, 21, 27, 28;
May 2, 4, 5, 9, 11, 12, 16, 18, 19, 23, 25, 26, 30.
Masterpi eces of the 17th and 18th centuri es, by
J.S.Bach, G.F.Hndel, W.A.Mozart, A.Vivaldi and Frederick
the Great and his court composers.
Berliner Residenz Konzerte, Spandauer Damm
22-24, Groe Orangerie of Schloss Charlottenburg,
tel. +49 30 25 81 03 50, www.concerts-berlin.com.
Berliner Residenz Concerts
Berlins top hotels all have concierges that are there
to make the guests lives easier. They can inform you
about current events, book tickets, make restaurant
reservations and hand out copies of Berlin In Your
Pocket, transport maps, and brochures. Concierges
can be recognised by the crossed golden keys on the
lapels of their jackets.
Ask the concierge
by Berliner Residenz Konzerte
Masterpieces from the days of
Frederick the Great
Wednesday, Friday & Saturday
Dinner: 6pm | Concert: 8.30pm
Tickets
www.concerts-berlin.com
Tel.: 030-526 81 96 96
10
CULTURE & EVENTS
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
11
CULTURE & EVENTS
April - May 2012 berlin.inyourpocket.com
Theatre, Music & Dance
Berlin has dozens of venues for performances. Theres
lots of great theatre, but most of it is German-language;
its getting better, with English plays or surtitles in some
theatres.
Berlin is the world capital of contemporary dance; look for
shows by Sasha Waltz, perhaps the best choreographer
around. The Staatsballett Berlin is the main classic dance
company. Tanzraumberlin magazine (www.tanzraumberlin.
de), available at the venues, lists all dance events.
English Theatre Berlin F-5, Fidicinstrae 40,
Kreuzberg, MU Platz der Luftbrcke, tel. +49 30 691
12 11, www.etberlin.de. Berlin residents, whether native
English speakers or not, come to this theatre for the edgy
programming on the li ttle black boxs stage. Q Tickets
14-18.
Halle Tanzbhne G-1, Eberswalder Strae 10-11,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30
44 04 42 92, www.halle-tanz-berlin.de. A monumental
school gym, used for excellent modern dance productions
by the Toula Limnaios company. Q Tickets 15.
Hebbel am Ufer (HAU) F-4, Hallesches Ufer 32,
Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, tel. +49 30 259 00 40,
www.hebbel-am-ufer.de. Three small theatres (the others
at Stresemannstrae 29 and Tempelhofer Ufer 10) perform
experimental theatre (often in English or mute) and dance.
Q Tickets 11-18.
Kookaburra G-2, Schnhauser Allee 184, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 48 62 31
86, www.comedyclub.de. Laughing matters at Berlins
premier comedy club, which has English-language stand-up
comedy with Kim Eustace every first Tuesday of the month,
the interactive ComedySportz show every second Tue & Sat,
burlesque with Jack Woodhead every third Tue & Sat and an
open mic every first Sat. Q Tickets 8-10.
Radi al system V H- 4, Hol zmar ktstr ae 33,
Friedrichshain, MS Ostbahnhof, tel. +49 30 288
78 85 88, www.radialsystem.de. A fantasti c theatre,
dance and musi c venue in an old pumping stati on al ong
the Spree ri ver. Theres a restaurant and caf too. Q
Ti ckets 5-41.
Schaubhne B- 4, Kur f r st endamm 153,
Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 89
00 23, www.schaubuehne.de. Set inside a quirky round
1920s building, this venerable theatre with a politicall y and
sociall y engaged German-language repertoire presents
several performances per month with English and/or French
surtitles. Theres a good theatre caf with drinks and simple
meals too. Q Tickets 7-43.
Sophiensle G-2/3, Sophienstrae 18, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 283 52 66, www.
sophiensaele.com. The beauti ful theatre insi de the
historical craftsmen association building puts on over 60
new and experimental dance and theatre productions per
year, plus several festivals. Q 11-16.
Classical music
5 April, 20:00 PH
Staatskapelle Berlin
Conductor: Daniel Barenboim; works by Edward Elgar and
Anton Bruckner
14 April, 20:00 KH
Konzerthausorchester Berlin
Conductor: Olari El ts; works by Dun, Tomasi, Debussy, and
Stravinsky
15 April, 14:00 RS
RadialPhilharmonische Expeditionen
Berliner Philharmoniker at Radialsystem V
15 April, 20:00 PH
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin
Conductor: Sakari Oramo, Anu Komsi (soprano); works by
Debussy, Szymanowski, and Prokofiev
23 April, 20:30 PH
Casual Concert - Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester
Berlin
Conductor: Hans Graf, Melanie Diener (soprano), Lioba Braun
(mezzo soprano), Ewa Wolak (al to); works by Hindemith and
Skrjabin
24 April, 19:30 JM
intonations: Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Arnold Schn-
berg, Matan Porat
(Jerusalem International Chamber Music Festival at the Jewish
Museum Berlin)
25 April, 20:00 PH
Freiburger Barockorchester
Conductor and Violin: Gottfried von der Gol tz
The Wintergartens show On the Edge of the Night,
plays until 14 April and stars Katharine Mehrling with her
band, dancers, international variety artistes and special
guest, jazz legend Rolf Khn. Romantic and mysterious,
erotic and dangerous, witty and breathtaking, the show
takes the audience to a hot jazz club, in the streets of
Paris and to a dazzling variety show.
From 20 April to 7 June and 4-28 July, the new Funky
Town show offers music, fun and acrobatics by and with
the Lovely Bastards group. A wild juggler, a comedian
and a ventriloquist form a modern kind of Rat Pack,
entertaining the audience with brutally loud to subtly
calm acts focusing on the many di fferent aspects of
city life, and all accompanied live by a top-class band.
Wintergarten Varit, Potsdamer Strae 96,
Tiergarten, U Kurfrstenstrae, tel. +49 30 58 84
33, www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat
20:00, Sun 18:00.
Wintergarten: Funky Town
Wi t h over 450 exhi bi t s, t he new museum and
cul tural hi ghli ght Dal - The Exhi bi tion at Potsdamer
Platz of fers the most compl ete overvi ew of Dals
virtuous and experimental mastery in almost all art
techni ques, ri ght here in the heart of Berlin. As Dal
once sai d: Come into my brain. In keeping wi th this
spiri t Surrealism for all, visi tors to Berlin now have
the chance to discover their Dal.
Dal - The Exhibition at Potsdamer Platz,
Leipziger Platz 7, Mitte, MPotsdamer Platz, tel.
+49 700 32 54 23 75 46, www.daliberlin.de. Open
12:00-20:00, Sun & holidays 10:00-20:00. Admission
11, reduced 9.
Dal - The Exhibition at Potsdamer Platz
DaliBerlin.de
SUI TABL E F OR I NT E RNAT I ONAL VI SI TORS
Potsdamer Strae 96, D-10785 Berlin Tiergarten
Ticket Hotline: +49(0)30 - 588 433 or just print your
tickets at home: www.wintergarten-berlin.de
presents the exclusive
Lindner Show & Dine Menu
by and with the Lovely Bastards MUSIC, FUN & ACROBATICS
20 April 7 June
and 4 28 July 2012
Showtime: Wed Sat 20:00
Sun 18:00
In a city dominated by mainly German
theater shows, the BLUE MAN GROUP
show at Potsdamer Platz offers a won-
derful solution for any tongue-tied for-
eigner in the city. The New York produc-
tion is a unique form of entertainment
that communicates with its audience
by way of gestures, expressions and
music rather than words. In the show,
three bald-headed blue men whisk the
audience away on a funny, entertaining, thrilling and unique musical
journey. Now the show, which has been thrilling audiences in Berlin
since 2004, is introducing an international edition in which English text
has been creatively integrated into the production, making it even easier
for visitors from abroad to follow along.
Come see the BLUE MAN GROUP perform at the Stage BLUEMAX The-
ater at Potsdamer Platz.
BLUEMANGROUP, Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4, Stage BLUEMAXTheater,
Tel. (+ 49) (0) 18 05 44 44
*
, www.bluemangroup.de/international
Daily shows except for on Mondays. Tickets from 54,90.
Discover the wild side of berlin.
BLUE MAN GROUP

*
0.14/min. calling from a German landline.
Cellphone charges max. 0.42 min.
12
CULTURE & EVENTS
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
13
CULTURE & EVENTS
April - May 2012 berlin.inyourpocket.com
2 May, 20:00 PH
David Garrett (violin)
6 May, 20:00 KH
Kammerorchester Carl Philipp Emanuel Bach
Conductor: Hartmut Haenchen; works by Carl Philipp Emanuel
Bach, Boccherini, Spohr, and Schubert
6 May, 20:00 PH
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin
Conductor: Vladimir Ashkenazy, works by Bruckner and Mahler
12 May, 20:00 KH
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin
Conductor: Sebastian Wei gl e; Sinfonie Nr. 5 cis-Moll by
Gustav Mahler
15 May, 20:00 KH
Gewandhausorchester Leipzig
Conductor: Riccardo Chaill y; works by Ravel and Mahler
15 May, 20:00 PH
Staatskapelle Berlin
Conductor: Andri s Nel sons; works by Bir t wi stl e and
Beethoven
22 May, 20:00 PH
Staatskapelle Halle, Philharmonischer Chor Berlin
Conductor: Jrg-Peter Weigle; Joseph Haydn - Die Schpfung
From 27 April - 29 July 2012: Fashioning fashion
European Fashion 1700-1915
Thi s exhi bi ti on showcases the hi stori cal cl othi ng
collection from the Los Angeles County Museum of Art,
spanning 200 years of fashion history. Highlights include
the gold-embroidered dress of a Portuguese queen,
a turban by designer Paul Poiret, fascinating fabrics,
sophisticated cuts and precious decorations. Visitors
can also stroll down a catwalk and learn more about
the fascinating cultural and historical contexts of these
costumes using 25 special objects from the museums
permanent collection.
Deutsches Historisches Museum, Unter den
Linden 2, Mitte, S Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30
20 30 40, www.dhm.de. Open 10:00-18:00.
Fashioning fashion
LACMA
Foreign film offerings in German cinemas are often
dubbed so check www.critic.de/ov-movies-berlin or look
in listings magazines like Tip and Zitty, for subtitled films;
these are marked in with OmU or OmengU (original
version with German/English subtitles) and OF or OV
(original version); DF means German version.
Babylon Mitte G-2, Rosa-Luxemburg-Strae 30,
Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30
242 59 69, www.babylonberlin.de. A filmhouse for
great directors, Babylon has a great program, but often
films are dubbed into German. The building itself is a
1920s example of New Objectivity. Watch for occasional
screenings of silent films accompanied by the historical
organ from 1929. Q Tickets 7.
Cinestar Event & Original E-4, Potsdamer Strae
4,Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 26
06 64 00, www.cinestar.de. With a sleek ambience, a
cocktail bar, roomy seating (even love seats) and a Taxi
Driver carpet, the Cinestar Original cinema is loved by
English-speakers and film purists for screening blockbuster
and arthouse movies in their original version. The Cinestar
Event cinema shows 3D movies and documentaries in
German on the biggest screen in town. Q Tickets 6-11.
Hackesche Hfe G-2, Rosenthaler Strae 40,
Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 283 46
03, www.hackesche-hoefe.org. Many foreign films
play here, so speakers of languages other than German
could get by here as long as the films arent dubbed; many
have German subtitles. Q Tickets 8; Mon, Tue 6,50.
Sputnik G-5, Hasenheide 54, Kreuzberg, MU
Sdstern, tel. +49 30 694 11 47, www.sputnik-kino.
com. Berlins highest cinema screens a lot of indie films,
many in English, and sometimes very long ones. In a back
courtyard of a large complex, it may seem a bit dicey working
your way to the theater, but its safe, small, and friendly.
Bricks make up part of the furniture. Q Tickets 5-6,5.
Film festivals
Apart from the huge Berlinale film festival in February,
Berlin has over 40 smaller international film festi vals
throughout the year, often focused on a country or theme.
04-08 April: Northzone Festival, www.northzone.de
5-10 April: In-Edit, Moviemento, www.in-edit.de
10 -24 April: Musik/Film-Marathon, Kino im Martin-
Gropius-Bau, www.musik-film-marathon.de
18-25 April: New Berlin Film Award, various cinemas,
www.achtungberlin.de
19-29 April: Trkishe Filmwoche, Kinowel t Colosseum,
www.tuerkischefilmwoche-berlin.de
22-24 April: Stranger Than Blues, Eiszeit Kino, www.
eiszeitkino.de
22 April -16 May: Endlich Genug, Kino Moviemento,
www.jenseits-des-wachstums.de.
24- 25 April: Ver zauber t Queer Fi l m Weekend,
Kul turbrauerai, www.verzaubertfilmfest.com
24-29 April: Sehsuchte, Thalia Arthouse Kinos, www.
sehsuechte.de
27 April: Deutcher Filmpreis LOLA, Friedrichstadtpalast,
www.deutsche-filmakademie.de
2-6 May: BI CB, Rathaus Schneberg,www.black-
international-cinema.com.
31 May- 3 June: BDF, various cinemas, www.hkw.de
Cinemas
Kilkenny Irish Pub
Fun & football, a drink or two and a bite to eat go hand
in hand. And if thats what youre after, the Kilkenny Irish
Pub is where you find it. Watch all major sport events,
Champions League, Premier League, Formula One etc.
on large screens, together with locals and tourists from
all over the world.
Am Zwirngraben 17-20, tel. +49 30 283 20 84,
www.kilkenny-pub.de. Open daily from 10:00.
Irish Harp Pub
Just one minute off Kurfrstendamm, the Irish Harp Pub is
a haven for music and sports fans alike. Two bars, a cozy
ambience, four large TVs and two big screens provide
the setting for a great night out, or an afternoon full of
excitement and entertainment while following international
football, rugby and other sports, or playing a round of darts.
Giesebrechtstr. 15, Charlottenburg. tel. +49 30 22
32 87 35, www.harp-pub.de. Open daily from 10:00.
Irish Harp & Kilkenny
31 May, 20:00 PH
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin
Conductor: Manfred Honeck, Jan Vogler (cello), works by
Braunfels, Honegger, and Brahms
Concerts
18 April, 20:00 PB
Charlie Winston (Singer/Songwriter)
22 April, 20:00 TD
Nena (Pop)
27 April, 20:00 TD
James Taylor (Folk Rock)
6 May, 20:00 TD
Morten Harket (Pop)
7 May, 19:30 OW
New Kids In The Block & Backstreet Boys (Pop)
9 May, 20:00 OW
Peter Gabriel (Rock)
20 May, 20:00 TD
Ian Anderson (Rock)
30 May, 20:00 OS
Bruce Springsteen (Rock)
Exhibitions
Until 9 April HB
Ryoji Ikeda. db
Japanese composer and visual artist Ryoji Ikeda has designed
an exhibition that unites the two symmetric east and west
wings of the museum. The exhibi tion ti tle db (short for
decibels) relates to this symmetry.
12 February until 13 May NA
Gerhard Richter - Panorama
Gerhard Richter, arguabl y the most famous German artist of
his generation, celebrates his 80th birthday this February.
Thi s large retrospecti ve exhibi ti on of hi s oeuvre i s in
collaboration with the Tate Modern in London and the Centre
Pompidou in Paris.
15 March until 10 June MG
Pacific Standard Time. Art in Los Angeles, 19501980
LA has an impressi vel y di verse art scene, demonstrating
theres more to i t than Holl ywood, sun and palm trees.
The exhibi tion draws attention to international artists like
John Baldessari, David Hockney, Edward Ki enhol z and
Ed Ruscha, as well as lesser-known ones like abstract
painters Helen Lundeberg and Karl Benjamin, ceramists
such as Ken Price and John Mason or acclaimed sculptors
like DeWain Valentine.
HB Hamburger Bahnhof Museum, Invalidenstrae 50-
51, tel. +49 30 39 78 34 11, www.hamburgerbahnhof.de.
JM Jdisches Museum Berlin, Lindenstrae 9-14, tel.
+49 30 25 99 33 00, www.jmberlin.de.
KH Konzerthaus Berlin, Gendarmenmarkt, tel. +49
30 20 30 90, www.konzerthaus.de.
MG Martin-Gropius-Bau, Niederkirchnerstrae 7, tel.
+49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.de.
NA Neue Nationalgalerie, Potsdamer Strae 50, tel.
+49 30 266 26 51, www.neue-nationalgalerie.de.
OS Olympiastadion, Ol ympischer Platz 3, tel. +49 30
688100, www.ol ympiastadion-berlin.de.
OW O2 World, Mhlenstrae 12-30, tel. +49 30 20 60
70 80, www.o2world.de.
PB Postbahnhof, Strae der Pariser Kommune 8, tel.
+49 30 69 81 28 20, www.postbahnhof.de
PH Philharmonie, Herbert-von-Karajan-Strae 1, tel.
+49 30 25 48 80, www.berliner-philharmoniker.de.
RS Radialsystem V, Holzmarktstrae 33, tel. +49
30 28 87 88 50
TD Tempodrom, Mckernstrae 10, tel. +49 30 69 53
38 85, www.tempodrom.de.
Venue list Berlin
14
MITTE
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
15
MITTE
April - May 2012 berlin.inyourpocket.com
T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
V Home delivery E Live music
N No credit cards M Nearest S/U-Bahn station
B Outside seating G Non-smoking room
S Take away R Internet
W Wi-Fi
Additional symbols for hotels
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
L Guarded parking H Conference facilities
F Fitness centre K Restaurant
D Sauna C Swimming pool
Dinner price guide
The number of euro symbols in our restaurant, caf and
nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price level
based on a main course with a glass of wine.
Expensive; more than 30 per person.
Not cheap; 20-30 per person.
Middling; from 10-20 per person.
Cheap; less than 10 per person.
Symbol key
Over 200
Adlon F-2, Unter den Linden 77, Mitte, MU Unter den
Linden, tel. +49 30 226 10, adlon@kempinski.com,
www.hotel-adlon.de. The reconstructed, historic Adlon
hotel has views of the Brandenburger Tor, unfussy 1920s-style
rooms with cherry wood, black marble and rich fabrics, plus
the staff provides impeccable service. Often voted the best
hotel in Germany and even Europe, this is the onl y place to
sleep. Q375 rooms (302 singles 240 - 310, 302 doubles
290 - 360, 72 sui tes 520 - 3800, 1 Presidential sui te
8500). Breakfast extra. PHARUFLGKDC
hhhhh
Grand Hyatt E-4, Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 2, Mitte,
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 53 12 34,
berlin@hyatt.de, www.berlin.grand.hyatt.com. Par t
of the mini-ci ty at Potsdamer Platz, this mi ght just be
the cool est hotel in Berlin, wi th great archi tecture and
furni ture arranged all Feng Shui. Perks in the large rooms
include books and frui t. Q342 rooms (342 singles 220
- 235, 342 doubles 265 - 280, 14 triples 385 - 400, 10
sui tes 505 - 885, 2 presidential sui tes 2520 - 3335).
PHARUFLEGKDC hhhhh
Hilton F-2, Mohrenstrae 30, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte,
tel. +49 30 202 30, info.berlin@hilton.com, www.hilton.
com. Maybe its the excellent breakfast and not the privileged
view on Gendarmenmarkt that keeps guests coming back.
The formal rooms are supplemented by good restaurants and
exotic spa treatments. Q591 rooms (singles 145 - 345,
doubles 145 - 345, suites 220 - 1145). Breakfast extra.
PHARUFLEGKDC hhhhh
Hotel de Rome F-3, Behrenstrae 37, Mitte, MS/U
Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 460 60 90, inf o.
derome@roccofortecollection.com, www.hotelderome.
com. Overlooking Bebelplatz, this top-class hotel occupies
a magni ficent former bank building from 1889. Wooden
panelling, marble and even shrapnel damage pervade the
high-ceilinged lobby and rooms, and the banks vaul t is now
a 20-metre pool. Q146 rooms (103 singles 395 - 495, 103
doubles 395 - 495, 43 suites 595 - 4100).
InterContinental D-4, Budapester Strae 2, Mitte,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 260 20,
berlin@interconti.com, www.interconti.com. The direct
surroundings are a yawn, but this West Berlin stal wart
has been keeping up with the times. The excellent Hugos
restaurant enjoys stunning views from the 14th floor, the
rooms are minimalist abodes wi th furnishings you can
rearrange through swi vel action, and theres a spa wi th
several saunas. Q584 rooms (534 singles 165 - 350, 534
doubles 170 - 400, 50 suites 215 - 2500). Breakfast extra.
PHARUIFLEGKDC hhhhh
Marriott E-4, Inge-Beisheim-Platz 1, Mitte, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 22 00 00, www.marriott.
com. Ten floors of superb rooms and conference facilities
overlooking the Platz. The lobby has a serenel y spinning
3-tonne black granite globe, and the copper facade of one
wall plays an unearthl y light show. That plus a wellness
centre and a classic Art Deco New York bar and grill make
this one of Berlins finest hotels. Q379 rooms (350 singles
159 - 219, 350 doubles 159 - 219, 9 sui tes 350 -
1200, 80 executi ve room 199 - 259). Breakfast extra.
PHAFLGKDC hhhhh
Ritz-Carlton E/F-4, Potsdamer Platz 3, Mitte, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 33 77 77, berlin@
ritzcarlton.com, www.ritzcarlton.com. A gil t-edged
hotel wi th superlati ve services, gourmet dining and fake
marbl e Corinthian columns lining a sweeping staircase
in the lobby. The classic dark wooden bar opens wi th a
ceremony every evening at 18:00 and serves over 400 fine
fruit brandies. Q302 rooms (singles 250 - 360, doubles
280 - 440, 40 sui tes 330 - 5000). Breakfast extra.
PTHARUFLGKDC hhhhh
Sofitel Berlin Gendarmenmarkt F-3, Charlottenstrae
50-52, Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20
37 50, H5342@accor.com, www.sofitel.com. A wonderful
merger between modern design and 1980s East German
grandeur, best seen in the impressive conference hall where
GDR-era columns and chandeliers meet a post-modern
light-up floor. Small rooms are compensated by the views
from the sauna area, the buffet breakfast and the in-house
Aigner restaurant. Q92 rooms (29 singles 175 - 270, 41
doubles 190 - 285, suites 320 - 750). Breakfast extra.
PHARUFLGKD hhhhh
The Regent Berlin F-3, Charlottenstrae 49, Mitte,
MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 203 38, www.
theregentberlin.com. Frequented by Holl ywood celebrities
during Februarys film festival, these luxurious digs
with cute Juliet balconies beckon with warm public spaces
gleaming with marble, a two-star restaurant and plush guest
rooms with flatscreen TVs in the bathroom. Q195 rooms
(singles 230 - 360, doubles 260 - 395, sui tes 360 -
1950, presidential sui te 2950 - 3500). Breakfast extra.
PHARUFLGKD hhhhh
Westin Grand F-3, Friedrichstrae 158-164, Mitte,
MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 202 70, info@westin-
grand.com, www.westin.com/berlin. Enviably well-located
and used in GDR times for Party bigwigs, the Westin is
classicall y furnished, wi th a copy of the Adlons marble
staircase situated in the lobby, a round pool, an upmarket
restaurant and suites with butler service. Q358 rooms (25
singles 136 - 350, 273 doubles 136 - 375, suites 379 -
930, 15 junior suites 279 - 565, 1 presidential suite 986
- 1930). Breakfast extra. PHARUFLGKDC
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150-200
Alexander Plaza G-3, Rosenstrae 1, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 24 00 10, info@hotel-
alexander-plaza.de, www.hotel-alexander-plaza.de.
This beautifull y restored former fur atelier dating from 1897
is now a well-designed hotel. All rooms have large beds and
are decorated with modern art, while superiors also have
kitchenettes. Q92 rooms (6 singles 110 - 115, 77 doubles
120 - 125, suites 155 - 185). PHARFLGKD
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75-150
Honigmond & Garden Hotels F-2, Tieckstrae
12, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 284 45 50,
honigmond@t-online.de, www.honigmond.de. Two
meticulously restored buildings with sparsely furnished rooms
wi th original wooded floors makes for a homey feel. The
nearby Garden Hotel dependence has a garden with a lawn
and goldfish pond for frolicking around in summer. Q Garden
hotel at F-1, Invalidenstr. 122, MI, tel. 28 44 55 77.24 rooms
(singles 59 - 109, doubles 79 - 159). AG
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Since reunification, the old city centre district Mitte
(meaning middle) has rightly snatched back the title of
most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and off the
boulevard Unter den Linden are baroque and classical
monuments to Prussian culture. The architecturally hum-
bler but more neighbourhood-like Scheunenviertel area
allows the casually chic to saunter from courtyard gallery
to sidewalk caf. Only traces are left of the Jewish commu-
nity that lived here from the late 17th century, welcomed by
the Great Elector Friedrich Wilhelm.
Between Mitte and Charlottenburg, the huge Tiergarten
park began as the Great Electors hunting grounds in
the 1600s. Traffic passes through it, doing a dosey-doe
around the Siegessule victory column. The Strae des
17. Juni leads east to the Brandenburger Tor; just south of
it are the state museums of the Kulturforum and the Pots-
damer Platz district with its soaring corporate buildings.
Getting there
Arrivals by plane and train usually end up at Hauptbahnhof
station, central for the city but not really close to anything.
S-Bahn trains from the top level link to the east and west
of the city, while the fancy new two-stop U55 U-Bahn line
takes sightseers straight to Brandenburger Tor.
Pocket Walk
Start off at Brandenburger Tor and the Reichstag before
heading south past the Holocaust memorial and Potsdamer
Platz to the Topographie des Terrors exhibition and the
adjacent stretch of Berlin Wall. Follow Zimmerstrae for
the Stasi Exhibition and Checkpoint Charlie. Walk north
along Friedrichstrae and turn right at Mohrenstrae for
Gendarmenmarkt square, before ambling to Unter den
Linden via Bebelplatz. Walk east past the Neue Wache and
Berliner Dom, turn left into Spandauer Strae, and pass
Hotels
through Hackescher Markt station. Visit the Hackesche Hfe
complex before walking down Oranienburger Strae for the
Neue Synagoge. You can catch the S-Bahn from here back
to Brandenburger Tor.
16
MITTE
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
17
MITTE
April - May 2012 berlin.inyourpocket.com
Asian
Manngo G- 2, Mul ackstrae 29, Mi tte, MU
Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 28 04 05 58, www.
manngo.de. A friendl y and deliciousl y enticing Vietnamese
with a small, perfectly formed menu and a curious collection of
Klimt artworks on the walls. The authentic curry, satay, spring
rolls and soups are very affordable, while fresh juices, Bia Hoi
and Saigon beer also up the ante. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat
13:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. . TANB
Monsieur Vuong G-2, Alte Schnhauser Strae 46,
Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 30 87 26 43,
www.monsieurvuong.de. Hanoi and Saigon have landed in
a chic little red Vietnamese restaurant in Mitte. There are only
five dishes and two dail y specials, but theyre so delicious
youll be ordering a second bowl of rice to soak up the leftover
sauce. After your gi bo, try some jasmin or artichoke tea.
Prices have risen and youll have to fight the ber-cool crowds
for a table as Mr. Vuong doesnt take reservations. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. . S
Van Long Reinhardtstrae 8, Mitte, MU Oranienburger
Tor, tel. +49 30 28 23 570, www.van-long.de. Best
visited for the wide range of Vietnamese specialities, from
all parts of the country, Van Long also has some tasty
Thai options served in a modest space decorated wi th
Vietnamese art. Try the specials such as the Chả
C L Vọng fish that you finish grilling at your table,
or the Lẩu chay clay pot with tofu and vegetables.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. .
cranberry ice cream and Mexican chocolate. Facils design is
a post-modern, glass-box Asian pavilion looking onto a fifth-
floor courtyard, with a large central skylight that retracts. Q
Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. .
PAB h
Fischers Fritz F-3, Charlottenstrae 49, Mitte, MU
Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20 33 63 63, www.
fischersfritzberlin.com. The restaurants name comes
from a tongue-twister and the light, fish-focused menu is for
a very refined palate. Chef Christian Lohse has won several
of the Michelin stars that appear none too oft in Germany.
The German chef first trained in Dijon and has since pleased
gourmands such as those at The Dorchester in London and
the Sul tan of Brunei (as a private chef). The dining room has
light woods, deep carpets and a fireplace. Q Open 12:00-
14:00; 18:30-23:00. . PAG hh
Lutter & Wegner F-3, Charlottenstrae 56, Mitte, MU
Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 202 95 40, www.l-w-
berlin.de. Classy, traditional, and with a link to the actor who
put the sparkle in German wine in 1811, this is the place
to share a bottle of Sekt before or after a concert at the
Konzerthaus on Gendarmenmarkt. Theres a warren of rooms
in which to carve out a cosy niche. Germans know their roasts,
and you can trust the national committee that dubbed the
Sauerbraten here the best in Germany in 2003. QOpen 11:00
- 03:00. Closed Sun. The warm kitchen closes at 01:00 while
the Weinstube serves cold dishes until 03:00. . AB
Austrian
Brecht-Haus Kellerrestaurant F-2, Chausseestrae
125, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 282
38 43, www.brechtkeller.de. The recipes served here
are those of a busy Austrian actress making do with East
German ingredients, so though decent, its not the Tafelspitz
(rump steak) thats famous, but the spirit of the place where
playwright Berthold Brecht and his actress wi fe Helene
Weigel li ved. The small basement cellar is full of famil y
photographs and original set models of plays like Mother
Courage. Also inside is what could onl y be described as a
romantic brick-lined lounge area. A wall separates a terrace
from the cemetery where the couple are buried. QOpen
18:00 - 01:00. . B
Fast food
DomCurry F-3, Gendarmenmarkt (Hilton hotel),
Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 202 30
44 55. Elevating fast food to a gatronomic experience,
the Hil ton allows you to style your own currywurst using
top-quali ty ingredients, right beside the Deutsche Dom
on Gendarmenmarkt. There are several types of sausage
(ostrich, eco, fish), sauces and bread to choose from. QOpen
11:00 - 18:00. .
Fine dining
Aigner F-3, Franzsische Strae 25, Mitte, MU
Franzsiche Strae, tel. +49 30 203 75 18 50, www.
aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. One of Berlins best places to
eat, Aigner is trul y international, as its name, concept and all
the old furnishings originate from a famous Viennese caf that
closed in the 1980s. Master chef Herbert Beltle and his team
serve award-winning dishes with ingredients sourced fresh
from the market. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. AU
Borchardt F-3, Franzsische Strae 47, Mitte, MU
Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 81886262, www.
borchardt-catering.de. Borchardt didnt have to invest much
to make a good first impression - the mere height of the ceiling
and the buildings original tile floors whisper class and luxury.
The money and creative energy goes into the kitchen, which
comes up with a different menu each day to keep its regular
clientele surprised. Leave the pork to the Germans, the beef
dishes here are delectable. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . A
Facil E-4, Potsdamer Strae 3,Tiergarten, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 590 05 12 34, www.facil-
berlin.de. Michael Kempfs Michelin-starred menu changes
dail y but might include veal shank with spiny lobster, or ox
cheek with black pudding and truffle leek puree. At lunchtime
courses could be fillet of beef with pumpkin, or brownie with
Restaurants & Cafs
Manngo
Gaffel Haus F-3, Dorotheenstrae 65, Mitte, MS/U
Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 31 01 16 93, www.
gaffel-haus-berlin.de. Serving the famed Gaffel Klsch
beer from Cologne in the small glasses typical for that city,
Gaffel is a large, cosy and athentic beer house that lives
up to expectations. Try the Fooderplaat snack plate with
sausages and black pudding, the herring filet or the roast
beef - or drop by on Friday evening for the weekl y Eisbein
(pork knuckle) with Sauerkraut. Sports fans can watch
football on the screens; Gaffel is open on Sundays when
FC Kln plays. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. . B
Geor gbru G- 3, Spr eeuf er 4, Mi tte, MU
Klosterstrae, tel. +49 30 242 42 44, www.
georgbraeu.de. Wi th a terrace overlooking the ri ver
and flanked by a dramatic statue of St. George slaying
a dragon (for no apparent reason), the Georgbru is a
merry, tourist-orientated brewery serving great beer.
The menu lists wonderful local food, with things like Big
Berlin Balls, which were sure to try... next time. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00. . B
Beer houses
The Cologne brewery house in Berlin
18
MITTE
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
19
MITTE
April - May 2012 berlin.inyourpocket.com
German and Austrian home cooking with fresh ingredients,
changing the menu every three days. A feast for the eyes and
the palate. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00.
Maximilians F-4, Friedrichstrae 185-190, Mitte,
MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 45 05 59, www.
maximiliansrestaurant.de. So you al ways wondered what
Bavaria is like - the beer, the food, Oktoberfest - but you onl y
made it as far as Berlin? No problem: Maximilians restaurant
serves up authentic and delicious Bavarian cuisine just a
stones throw from Gendarmenmarkt. The menu includes
soups and salads, but the real specialities are the delicious
Bavarian meat dishes such as knuckle of pork, steak, and
a variety of sausages. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (4,50-20).
Mutter Hoppe G-3, Rathausstrae 21, Mitte,
MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 241 56 25, www.
prostmahlzeit.de/mutterhoppe. Head down the winding
staircase into this restaurant in the Nikolai viertel district.
Youll find the space divided into cosy, low-ceilinged nooks with
upholstered banquettes and historic photos and drawings on
the painted walls. Heavy meat dishes are the meals to order
here. The kitchen offers sides not served at other German
restaurants, including green beans wrapped in bacon. Make
reservations; or try their sister restaurant Julchen Hoppe,
a few doors further towards the Spree. QOpen 11:30 -
23:30. . E
Schwarzwaldstuben F-3, Tucholskystrae 48, Mitte,
MU Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 28 09 80 84.
Bambi meets Berlin chic at the trendy Black Forest themed
Schwarzwaldstuben, whi ch has a fri endl y atmosphere,
bedraggled animal heads mounted on the walls and heavy
mix-matched furniture. Regional treats include Maultaschen
(ravi oli-like pockets in broth) and Jgerschnitzel, plus
Eichbaum beer on tap. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 24:00. . B
Stndige Vertretung F-3, Schiffbauerdamm 8, Mitte,
MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 282 39 65, www.
staev.de. Bonn politicians and bureaucrats were not happy
when they had to move to Berlin. They sent their favorite Bonn
hangout (named after the West-German embassy in the
GDR) as an advance scout. This laid-back politicians meeting
point supplies the homesick with their beloved Klsch beer
and Rhineland special ties (like Blutwurst and Saumagen),
but the menu has a selection of Berlin food as well. QOpen
11:00 - 01:00. . AB
Weihenstephaner G-3, Neue Promenade 5, Mitte,
MS/U Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 25 76 28 71.
This is the one eatery on the sunny square next to the
Hackescher Markt train station that delivers a hey, this is
Germany! experience. Part of the Wiehenstephaner brewery,
the restaurant has dirndel-clad waitresses who serve simple
and satisfying Bavarian speciali ties (like whi te sausages).
The outdoor tables have typical blue-and-whi te checked
tablecloths; inside, the rooms are rustic but elegant. A singing
zither musician sits in the front room and jazz takes place
in the back courtyard on Monday. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
. AEB
Zille-Stube G-3, Spreeufer 3, Mitte, MU Klosterstrae,
tel. +49 30 242 52 47, www.zillestube-nikolaiviertel.de.
The name is in homage to Berlin artist Heinrich Zille, whose
illustrations line the walls above upholstered banquettes
and wooden banisters. Dominating the menu are typical
Berlin meat dishes like Boulette, Kohlroulade (beaf-stuffed
cabbage leaves), Sauerbraten (marinated pot roast) and
Rostbratwurst. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. . A
Zum Nussbaum G-3, Am Nussbaum 3, Mitte, MU
Klosterstrae, tel. +49 30 242 30 95. What seems a
charming old German restaurant is in fact a charming new German
restaurant. The legendary Under the Nut Tree Inn used to stand
on a street on the island 200m to the southwest. When the war-
ravaged area was rebuilt in the 1980s, the inn was reconstructed
here. Most patrons dont care for authenticity, and tuck into the
well-priced Berlin specialities with curious translations, such
as brown rolls with dripping. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. . AB
Zur Letzten Instanz G-3, Waisenstrae 14, Mitte,
MU Klosterstrae, tel. +49 30 242 55 28, www.
zurletzteninstanz.de. Berlins oldest restaurant doesnt lie
on the tourist path, and maybe thats why German leaders
bring visiting heads of state here when everything in Mitte is
too noisy and crowded. Mikhail Gorbachev visited in 1989,
and Gerhard Schrder brought Jacques Chirac over for the
Berlin specialities, including Eisbein, in 2003. QOpen 12:00
- 23:00. Closed Sun. . ARGB
Indian
Mirchi F-2/3, Oranienburgerstrae 50, Mitte, MU
Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 28 44 44 82, www.amrit.
de. Mirchi offers Indian and Singaporean fusion cuisine, tamed
down to suit the German palette, but nevertheless pleasing. The
Tageskarte lunch menu (until 17:00) is especially attractive, with
vegetarian, chicken and lamb options priced 4-7; in the evenings
the selection gets wider and dearer. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
Also at (H-3) Oranienstr. 204, KB, tel. 61 62 99 93. . AB
International
Ganymed F-3, Schiff bauerdamm 5, Mitte, MS/U
Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 28 59 90 46, www.
ganymed-brasserie.de. Strolling along the Spree or after
a show at the bel oved Berliner Ensembl e, stop off at
Ganymeds historical rooms for Alsatian Flammekuchen,
French choucroute and beers, oysters, wines and the menu
du soir. The terrace has a view of the Spree and the trains
pulling into Friedrichstrasse station. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
Kitchen from 12:00 until 24:00. . AB
Gropius F-4, Niederkirchner Strae 7, Mitte, MU
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 64 03, www.mosaik-
berlin.de/restaurant-gropius. The restaurant inside the
Martin-Gropius-Bau is a great place to relax and strengthen
yourself after walking through an exhibition in the museum.
Theres everything from fresh salads and soups to pasta
dishes, meat and fish. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue.
Nolas am Weinberg G-2, Veteranenstrae 9, Mitte,
MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 07 66, www.
nola.de. This hip restaurant overlooks a sloping park. The
predominantl y Swiss menu lends itself to the terrace, which
is perfect for pretending be in the mountain air of St. Moritz.
Breakfast is served until 16:00 and you can order meals until
midnight. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. . B
Oranium F-3, Oranienburger Strae 33-34, MS
Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 30 88 29 67, www.
oranium.de. Just down the street from the Neue Synagoge,
Oranium is a pleasant all-day caf/restaurant/bar with plenty
of dark wood, a long bar and pretty lights. There are great
breakfasts (served until 16:00), lunches and good-value
dinner options. The menu is as international as it can get; for
something special try the German Wrap - wrapped around
two kinds of sausage - or the chicken with strawberry/chili
sauce. Wash it all down with a cocktail or two. QOpen 09:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. .
Reinhardts G-3, Poststrae 28, Mitte, MU Klosterstrae,
tel. +49 30 242 52 95, www.reinhards.de. Reinhardts
friendly staff can whisk a coffee to your table in no time, or if youre
here for the food, one of the light meals. The large restaurant is
situated in the Nikolaiviertel, and is well-positioned for a break
during a city walk. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. . AB
Traube F-2, Reinhardtstrae 33, Mitte, MS/U
Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 27 87 93 93, www.traube-
berlin.de. The Grape is a wine restaurant serving gourmet
alpine cuisine together with an excellent range of wines in
an elegant building from 1840. Chefs Christian Gau conjure
up extraordinary cross-over dishes from southern Germany,
Alsace, Switzerland and Austria. Guests can choose from a
la carte dishes or compose their own menus, with or without
wines. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00-23:00. Closed Sun.
Kf er Dachgar ten F-3, Platz der Republik
1,Tiergarten, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49
30 22 62 99 33, www.feinkost-kaefer.de. When
time is money, you may as well spend it on a good meal
while visiting the Reichstag dome. Make a reservation
to be whisked up to your meal and a 180-degree view of
eastern Berlin. German specialities are highlighted and
a regional name appears in most main course listings.
Last orders are taken at 21:30. Bring ID to get into the
buidling. QOpen 09:00 - 10:15, 12:00-16:30, 18:30-
24:00. . AB
Panorama Caf E-4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten,
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80,
www.panoramapunkt.de. The 1930s-style caf at
the top of the Potsdamer Platz viewing point has large
windows and an open terrace with great views over Berlin,
and serves coffee, cakes and other snacks. QOpen
11:00 - 20:00. Admission 5,50/4.
Sphere G-3, Panoramastrae 1a, Mitte, MS/U
Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 247 57 58 75, www.
tv-turm.de. The TV towers rotating restaurant at 207
metres gives you a spin around the city in 30 minutes.
Soups, salads and light meals accompany your city tour,
with attractive dail y specials often the best choice. Do
make reservations, or wait for a table while circling the
observation level. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. . E
Food with a view
Margaux F-3, Unter den Linden 78, Mitte, MS/U
Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 22 65 26 11, www.
margaux-berlin.de. Rich cuisine by Chef Michael Hoffmann
at this Michelin-starred restaurant, which uses onl y the
best ingredients for a dail y menu that is chosen by quali ty
of supplies. Fish are onl y line-caught, mostl y in the Atlantic
and in Brandenburg. Save room for the French cheese
plate. A good way to sample the cuisine is the four- or
seven-course dinner. QOpen 19:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun.
-. PAG h
Paris-Moskau E-3, Alt-Moabit 141, Tiergar ten,
MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 394 20 81, www.
paris-moskau.de. Many train passengers rolling into
Hauptbahnhof assume this lonel y and unusual hal f-timber
house from 1898 is related to the railroad, as i t si ts along
the tracks that link Paris and Moscow, but the fine restaurant
inside has more connections to the Medi terranean. Dishes
include stuffed quail, steak wi th pumpkin and pike-perch.
QOpen 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00-23:30, Sat, Sun 18:00 -
23:30. . A
VAU F-3, Jgerstrae 54/55, Mitte, MU Franzsische
Strae, tel. +49 30 202 97 30, www.vau-berlin.de. Its
easy to spell and rhymes wi th wow, and the latter is the
word-of-mouth that has kept chef Kolja Kleebergs restaurant
full y booked for years. Using many products from the Berlin
area, Michelin-starred Kleeberg follows his mentor Josef
Viehhausers rule: never more than three products on a
plate. Q Open 12:00 - 14:30, 19:00 - 22:30. Sun closed.
. PAG h
VOX E-4, Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 2, Tiergarten, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 53 17 02, www.berlin.
grand.hyatt.com. Hi ghl y-paid business travell ers from
New York, London, and Hamburg look quite at home in this
excellent, minimalist and high-ceiling restaurant in the Grand
Hyatt. Between the live jazz in the adjoining lounge and the
show kitchen, it makes for a see-and-be-seen evening, so
dont drop your sushi in your lap. The Vox bar is open from
18:00 and closes when guests decide. The kitchen is open
until 24:00. Breakfast on Saturday continues until 11:00 and
on Sunday until 14:00. Q Open 06:30 - 10:30; 12:00 - 14:30;
18:30 - 24:00. . PAEGB
German
Alpenstueck F-2, Gar tenstrae 9, Mitte, MS
Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 21 75 16 46, info@alpenstueck.
de, www.alpenstueck.de. Wiener Schnitzel with Schwabian
potato salad maultaschen with Bavarian creme are just a few
of the dishes available at Alpenstueck, a designer restaurant
with a traditional twist. Chef Christian Rex prepares southern
The Die Schule restaurant in the Prenzlauer Berg district
is not just a place for trying German cuisine. It's the
watering hole for adult students from all around the world
who are learning German at the GLS language school, in
the same complex. They're greatly helped by the location
of the school in a vibrant neighbourhood with plenty of
bars, restaurants and quirky boutiques.
Die Schule, Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg,
tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.gls-restaurant.de.
GLS language school, tel. +49 30 78 00 89 27,
www.gls-berlin.de.
Back to school at Die Schule
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Italian
Al Contadino Sotto Le Stelle G-2, Auguststrae
34, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 281 90
23, info@alcontadino.com, www.alcontadino.com. On
nights when other restaurants on the street have more
staff than guests, this mouthful of an Italian restaurant has
to turn passersby away. The entrance looks like that of an
apartment, and you get to squeeze by the kitchen before
dropping down into the dining room visible from the street.
QOpen 18.00 - 24.00. . PTNG
Japanese
Cocolo G-2, Gipsstrae 3, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstrae,
tel. +49 17 23 04 75 84. A completely authentic and great-
value Japanese ramen noodle soup restaurant, complete with
an open kitchen emitting clouds of fragrant steam, cramped
conditions on shared benches and a line of waiting guests.
Start off with a bowl of sal ty green beans, choose from five
delicious broths, have an Asahi beer and remember to slurp.
QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. . G
Sushi Circle F-3, Franzsische Strae 48, Mitte, MU
Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20 38 79 60, www.
sushi-circle.de. This sushi bar caters less to the guests
of the upscale hotels in the area and more to shoppers and
office workers on the go. If youre not quick enough to grab
the pieces passing by on the bars conveyor bel t, be patient
and it will circle around again. If not, ask the sushi chef stuck
in the middle to whip a request off for you. QOpen 12:00 -
23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. .
Moroccan
Kasbah G-2, Gipsstrae 2, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler
Platz, tel. +49 30 27 59 43 61, www.kasbah-berlin.
de. The lighting throws mysterious Oriental patterns of the
modern walls of this fabulous little eatery. It offers a couple
of specialities, including couscous dishes and kofte (spicy
meatballs) and homemade bread as well as tasty Moroccan tea
and wines. The friendly staff will wash your hands in rosewater
and give you a bowl of olives. The clubby music played here
and the cocktails on the menu make it attractive to linger after
dinner. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. . PB
Turkish
Hasir G-3, Oranienburger Strae 4, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 04 16 16, www.hasir.
de. Dont let the Grand Bazaar-style hawker at courtyard
entrance put you off: the red marble entrance way leads
not to apple tea and a pile of carpets but to Europes best
Turkish restaurant for cuisine and service. The most upscale
restaurant of this Berlin chain prepares its many lamb dishes
either over a wood coal grill or within a stone oven. QOpen
11:30 - 00:30. Also at Adalbertstrae 10 in Kreuzberg, and
Maaenstrae10 in Schneberg. . PAB
Cafs
Cum Laude F-3, Universitts Str, Mitte, MS/U
Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 208 28 83, www.cum-laude.
info. To escape the tourists on Unter den Linden, duck into
the side of Humboldt Uni versi ty for some quiet time wi th
students and professors. Classical music plays, the room
is elegant with light lemon-coloured walls and dark furniture
and youll feel like a part of Berlin, even if you, as a Gste,
will pay a little more for your dish than the Studenten. The
kitchen doesnt get good scores, so stick to soups, the tap
beer or coffee and house-made cake. QOpen 08:30 - 23:30,
Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.
Sankt Oberholz G-2, Rosenthaler Strae 72a, Mitte,
MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 24 08 55 86, www.
sanktoberholz.de. A large two-floor caf overlooking the
busy street crossing. Something of a public workspace for
IT entrepreneurs from the surrounding Silicon Allee internet
startups, its the ideal place to crack open a Mac and get
some work done using the free wifi and electrici ty plugs.
Or just come for the coffee, bagels, muffins and New York
cheesecake. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00, Sat
09:00 - 03:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. GW
Sophieneck G-2/3, Groe Hamburger Strae 37, Mitte,
MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 283 40 65, www.
sophieneck-berlin.de. A favouri te of locals and tourists
alike, Sophieneck is one of the most charming cafs in Mitte.
Located near Hackescher Markt since the revamp of the
district in 1984, it has resisted trendification, staying true to
its warm mishmash dcor of art nouveau and poster art. The
menu offers delicious Central European fare, accompanied by
an international wine list. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.
Starbucks F-3, Pariser Platz 4a, Mitte, MS/U
Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 27 89 02 30, www.
starbucks.de. Tourists l ove this conveni ent Ameri can
coffee chain outlet on the prestigious square in front of
Brandenburger Tor. Summertime adds fruity tea concoctions
to the menu board. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30, Sat 09:30 - 24:00,
Sun 09:30 - 22:30. Also at Friedri chstrae 61 and 96,
Rosenthalerstrae 40, Checkpoint Charlie and elsewhere.
RB
Nightlife
Bars
Aufsturz F-3, Oranienburger Strae 67, Mitte, MS
Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 28 04 74 07, www.
aufsturz.de. The great 19th-century explorer Alexander
von Humboldt lived in this building, but nowadays the onl y
expeditions done here are through the fat drinks menu listing
dozens of excellent Belgian and German beers; have a Kwak
beer to reall y kick your night off. Prices are reasonable and
the place looks good, with changing modern art on the walls.
Regrettabl y, on our visit the service was informal to the point
of being absent. Q Open from 12:00.
August II F- 2, Auguststr ae 2, Mi tte, MS
Oranienburger Strae, www.augustthesecond.de. A
sleek after-hours long drinks and champagne bar, in subdued
light and colours, hung wi th a huge chandelier, backed by a
top-class toilet and elevated by unintrusi ve house music.
I t may look closed but just ring the doorbell at the AII sign
to be let in, and try the Moscow Mule for a drink that eats
vegetables and kicks. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. X
Bar am Ltzowplatz D-4, Ltzowplatz 7, Tiergarten,
MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 262 68 07, www.
baramluetzowplatz.com. From his portrai t at the back
of the narrow bar, Chairman Mao is forced to take in the
scene of successful capi talists poring over each other.
Professionals line whats reputed to be Berlins longest
bar counter, or settle into the low leather couches in the
back - the most comfy spot to read the cocktail menu, which
lists 150 kinds of champagne and 250 cocktails. At these
prices, youll be glad you came for happy hour, between
16:00-21:00. QOpen 16:00 - 04:00.
Bar an der Karl-Marx-Allee H-3, Karl-Marx-Allee
36, Mitte, MU Schillingstrae, www.kma36.de.
Poised to soak up the spill-off from Kino Internati onal
across the street, this namel ess bar is the latest glass-
box resident on the bl ock. The socialist-era building is
all windows, so you can spy the crowd lining the l ow
banquettes around the perimeter before walking in. The
lofts doorways once led to massage rooms but now open
onto a communal fl oor, where groups will continue si tting
in circl es on the wall-to-wall carpeting until their drinking
finances more furnishings. QOpen 18:30 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 18:30 - 06:00.
Belushis Bar G-2, Rosa Luxemburg Strae 39-41,
Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 81 45
39 60, www.belushis.com. Belushis is a home away
from home for sports fans, beer lovers, and connoisseurs
of delicious home-made burgers. Based on the American
sports bar, this friendly chain pub especially caters for English
speakers and anyone who cant bear to miss a crucial match.
QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.
Billy Wilders E-4, Potsdamer Strae 2, Mitte,
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 26 55 48 60,
www.billywilder s.de. Low-backed booths and an
oval bar make this the idea spot for peopl e-watching,
though youll mostl y be watching other touri sts and
businesspeopl e. On the walls are scenes from Wilders
films, such as One-Two-Three (shot on l ocati on as the
Wall went up), whi ch starred Jimmy Cagney, and Horst
Buchhol z from Prenzlauer Berg. Sandwi ches, salads and
drinks are ser ved li ghtning fast: wai ters zap your order to
the bar wi th hand-held computers. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00,
Sat 11:00 - 04:00.
Eschschloraque Rmschrmp G-3, Rosenthaler
Strae 39, Mitte, www.eschschloraque.de. An island of
insanity in a sea of overpriced Hackescher Markt pomp: this
veritable den of delights and monsters can be found hidden
at the dark end of a graffitied courtyard. There are disturbing
metal beasts sticking from the crumbling walls, affordable
beer and cocktails, a stage, plenty of smoke, and a wonderful
set of characters intent on having a good night out. QOpen
14:00 - 04:00. EW
Harrys New York Bar D-4, Ltzowufer 15 (Grand Hotel
Palace), Tiergarten, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30
25 47 80, www.esplanade.de. Known for its drink menu
consisting of nearl y 200 choices, at Harrys you step back
to a time when the key elements for unforgettable nights
were great drinks, great music and great friends. Enjoy live
music by a jazzman tickling the ivories. Q Open from 19:00.
Sun closed.
Joseph Roth Diele E-4, Potsdamer Strae 75,
Tiergarten, MU Kurfrstenstrae, tel. +49 30 26 36
98 84, www.joseph-roth-diele.de. A wonderfull y cosy
dark brown bar owned by the same people who run the odd
Ave Maria religious shop next door. Its named after a prolific
Jewish writer whose quotes and books decorate the walls
and who lived nearby in the 1920s when this street was the
beating heart of Berliner nightlife. Delicious dinners are served
(snacks only on Fridays), and its a fabulous place for a beer or
wine after a show at the Wintergarten Variet, just opposite.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Keyser Soze F-2, Tucholskystrae 33, Mitte, MS
Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 28 59 94 89, www.
keyser-soze.de. So-so service, but this renowned bar is
perfect on all other accounts. The food, drinks, 20s-30s
crowd, location, mysterious name, mens toilets and the
fact that Toast Hawaii is listed under German specialities
all add to its greatness. We can recommend the lamb chop,
and Swabian specialities including Maultaschen (meat-filled
ravioli). QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. B
Kumpelnest 3000 E-4, Ltzowstrae 23, Tiergarten,
MU Kurfrstenstrae, tel. +49 30 261 69 18, www.
kumpelnest3000.com. Stragglers of all sexual orientations
head here for a nightcap or one last drunken spin on the tiny
metal dance floor. The velvet paintings and carpeted walls are
fascinating after a couple of drinks, and so are the scruffy patrons
apparently: its known as a hook-up bar. QOpen 19:00 - 05:00.
Pub and eatery in the historical centre of Berlin
We offer
fresh
regional
German
cuisine!
Groe Hamburger Strae 37
10115 Berlin
Tel.: 0049(0) 30 283 40 65
Fax: 0049(0) 30 285 99 860
E-mail: info@sophieneck-berlin.de
www.sophieneck-berlin.de
Sophieneck
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Mein Haus am See G-2, Brunnenstrae 197, Mitte, tel.
+49 30 27 59 08 73, www.mein-haus-am-see.blogspot.
com. Its all about seeing and being seen at some Mitte bars;
the My Lake House makes it very easy with its large slope
of seating steps overlooking a landscape of granny furniture
li t up by discoball sparkles and all draped wi th nattering
locals and backpackers from adjacent hostels. On the menu
are drinks, exotic coffee varieties and chilli hot choc, as well
as tasty burgers and snacks. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. G
QIU E/F-4, Potsdamer Strae 3 (Mandala Hotel),
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 590
05 00 00, www.qiu.de. Above the Mandala Hotels discreet
entrance on Potsdamer Strasse, you can escape the riff-raff
in this calm, sleek lounge. You might spot a celeb, or if your
eyesight is discerning enough, the three million colours the
fringed lamps are said to display in changing chameleon
fashion. Their shade remains lil y white during the day, when
Mediterranean lunches are served at the low-l ying couches
or at the bar. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
Rei ngol d F- 2, Noval i sstrae 11, Mi tte, MU
Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 28 38 76 76, www.
reingold.de. A lounge glowing in amber tones recalls the
thirties with an oversize drawing of Thomas Manns forlorn
offspring, Klaus and Erika, and leather and vel vet seating.
Though it often has a DJ, no one dances here. Its a setting for
making stationary moves on your date, or your tapas. QOpen
19:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Silberfisch F-3, Oranienburger Strae 37, Mitte, MS
Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 28 38 73 88. In this
tiny, cave-like setting, off-duty waiters mingle with people who
reall y shouldnt be out that late. A DJ lays tracks from a pulpit
and people dance when the spirit so moves them. This is the
best option in Mitte after other bars have closed. Be prepared
for screeching noises as patrons climb out into the earl y
morning sun. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 08:00.
Strandbad Mitte F-2, Kleine Hamburger Strae 16, Mitte,
MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 24 62 89 63, www.
strandbad-mitte.de. Beside a football pitch along a dead-end
street in the heart of the Scheunenviertel district, the quiet
beach bath bar has green tiles, great breakfasts, affordable
meals and plenty of space to park your bike. For children theres
a playground opposite. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. TBW
Clubs
Kaffee Burger G-2, Torstrae 60, Mitte, MU Rosa-
Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 28 04 64 95, www.kaffeeburger.
de. The patterned wallpaper and wood panelling has withstood
decades of the alternative scenes smoke and its stuck-in-the-
Socialist-Sixties-look is perfect for DJ/author Vladimir Kaminers wild
and sweaty Russendisko nights. Happenings like poetry slams and
jams start evenings that end with DJs spinning anything from Balkan
and surf rock to samba. QOpen from 21:00. E
Roter Salon G-2, Volksbhne, Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2,
Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 24 06 58
06, www.roter-salon.de. This place probabl y began with a
faded elegance, but lets say its just settled in after ten years
of clubbers bouncing off its red walls. Most nights feature
electro pop, electro lounge, and electroclash - the music
Berlin is known for. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Tue, Sun.
Sage Club H-4, Kpenicker Strae 76, Mitte, MU
Heinrich-Heine-Strae, tel. +49 30 278 98 30, www.
sage-club.de. The drag queen managing the velvet ropes
may not be representative of the scene inside (button-down
shirts and tight tank-tops, all worn in the gender-specific way),
but youre welcome to dress cross-gender anyway. Rock, punk,
and metal duke it out on Thursday, while Friday and Saturday
bring out the house fans. Q Open Thu-Sun 23:00 - 05:00.
Week-End Club G-3, Alexanderplatz 5, Mitte, MS/U
Alexanderplatz, www.week-end-berlin.de. A club, bar,
gallery and lounge set on the 12th floor of the beautifull y
hideous Haus des Reisens (the GDR state travel agency
specialising in saying no) on the corner of Otto-Braun-Strae.
Q Open Thu-Sat 23:00-04:00.
Dance
Clrchens Ballhaus F/G-2, Auguststrae 24, Mitte,
MS Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 282 92 95, www.
ballhaus.de. Whether you dance or not, Clrchens is a fantastic
night out. One of the oldest dance houses in Berlin, people have
been dancing their socks off here since 1913. Come salsa on
Monday, tango on Tuesday, or swing on Wednesday, all with
free admission. The legendary weekend Schwoof parties (5)
come with live dance band. German food and pizza are served
until 23:30. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. .
Jazz clubs
B-f lat G-2, Rosenthaler Strae 13, Mitte, MU
Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 283 31 23, www.b-flat-
berlin.de. For once, a spacious jazz club with unobstructed
sightlines to the stage. Check the blackboard for the small
snacks available; cocktails run 6-7. Musicians come from
all over the planet, and Wednesday features a free local jam
session. Sunday is Tango night, when a DJ sets couples off
into their passionately rigid embraces. QOpen 21:00 - 00:30,
Fri, Sat 22:00 - 00:30. E
Pubs
Kilkenny Irish Pub G-3, Am Zwirngraben 17-20,
Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 283 20 84,
www.kilkenny-pub.de. The three large rooms wi thin the
Hackescher Markt S-Bahn station offer more than enough
space for natives and tourists to eat homemade food, meet
and mingle, party and follow live sports events. Large TVs and
screens make sure that you wont miss a single goal. Irish and
German beer, whiskey and other cold beverages flow freel y.
Q Open dail y from 10:00.
Oscar Wilde F-2, Friedrichstrae 112a, Mitte, MU
Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 282 81 66, www.oscar-
wilde-irish-pub.de. A brash, large, Irish pub that fills up
with expats and visitors whenever theres a football rolling
over some foreign field. Its big screen shows Sky Sports,
Premiership, Champions League and mixture of international
sport, while the kitchen churns out Irish food, including all-day
breakfast, and a menu that changes every week. Every Friday
and Saturday theres li ve music, and every second Friday
a wild karaoke party; Monday night is quiz night. QOpen
12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. E
Sightseeing
Landmarks
Brandenburger Tor F-3, Pariser Platz, Mitte, MS/U
Brandenburger Tor. Berlins landmark monument is one
of 14 city gates completed in 1792 by Carl Langhans. Nike,
the goddess of victory, drives the four-horsepower chariot
atop the gate. German armies used to begin their parades
here, the fascists spoiled the gate by staging their torch-lit
parades through it, the war badl y damaged it, and then the
Wall essentiall y bricked the patched-up gate in for decades.
Berliners celebrated the Walls fall in 1989 by standing on it in
front of the gate, and after renovations the gate is the proud
focus point of the renewed square again.
Gendarmenmarkt F-3, Markgrafenstrae, Mitte, MU
Franzsische Strae. Twin cathedrals-turned-museums
(dating to the earl y 1700s), the Konzerthaus (from 1818,
by Carl Langhans) and a row of luxury hotels make up this
classic square. The name stems from the mid-1700s when
military regiments were stationed here. The Deutscher Dom
is home to a museum on the development of the German
Parliamentary system, not dull at all if youre a politics buff.
Youll have to read German or French to enjoy the exhibit in the
Franzsischer Dom on the contributions of French Huguenots
to Berlins development, beginning in the late 1600s.
Neue Synagoge F-3, Oranienburger Strae 28-30,
Mitte, MS Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 88 02 83
00, www.centrumjudaicum.de. Though not worth the
extra admission charge or the wait to stand inside it, the
gilded cupola of the New Synagogue is one of the most
eye-catching sights in Mi tte. Exhibi ts strikingl y balance
Club Bar Live & DJs
Kaffee Burger, well known through Wladimir
Kaminers Russian Disco, offers events, concerts
and djs late into the night, 7 days a week.
Sun-Thu 1 Weekends 5
Kaffee Burger | Torstrae 58-60, 10119 Berlin
www.kaffeeburger.de
Kaffee Burger Kilkenny Irish Pub
Soda Club
Soda
Club
House - RnB - Soul
Danceclassics - electro
KulturBrauerei
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the restoration of the Alhambra-inspired synagogue from
1866, with preserved evidence of its destruction, first on
Kristallnacht on November 9, 1938, and then through
Allied bombs. Documents and photographs remember the
thriving Jewish community of the neighbourhood, many of
whom worshipped here in what was the largest synagogue
in Germany. A subtle but effective sound installation adds to
the experience. Q Open Sun, Mon 10:00- 20:00, Tue-Thu
10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-17:00. Sat closed. Admission 3.5/3.
Nikolaiviertel G-3, Nikolaikirchplatz, Mitte, MU
Klosterstrae, www.stadtmuseum.de. Berlins tiny
medieval heart is the Nikolai Quarter, whose only truly medieval-
looking building today is the Nikolaikirche. The church dates
to 1230 and was rebuilt along with the entire quarter in the
mid-80s to mark Berlins 750th birthday in the area in which
the fishermens settlement first began. No one was trying to
outdo Walt Disney here, and many of the buildings have the
simple, concrete facades that the Communist government
could afford. The small shops in the area mostly deal in toys
and souvenirs and tourists gladly fill the sunny tables at the
restaurants that face the Spree River. On Rathausstrae,
theres a row of restaurants that flaunt old-fashioned Berlin
cuisine and atmosphere. Other rebuil t historic buildings in
the area date to the 1700s, such as the Ephraim-Palais and
Knoblauchhaus. Both have changing exhibits related to Berlin.
Potsdamer Platz E/F-4, MPotsdamer Platz. Once a
busy intersection at the modern heart of a thriving metropolis,
Potsdamer Platz was heavily damaged in the war, and suffered
again when most remaining buildings were demolished
to make way for the Walls death strip. Hotel and office
skyscrapers now add a cosmopolitan edge to the city, while
to the east Leipziger Platz is almost rebuilt. The most popular
public space and architectural attraction is the Sony Center,
with its huge atrium and tent-like roof, best viewed at night
for its impressive lighting. The neighbouring DaimlerChrysler
complex holds archi tecture by Renzo Piano and Richard
Rogers, and the Arkaden shopping mall.
Reichstag F-3, Platz der Republik 1, Tiergarten, MU
Bundestag, www.bundestag.de/htdocs_e/visits. The
name together with its monumental size make most people
associate Germanys neoclassical parliamentary building
with the Nazis, but they have little history here. After hosting
parliamentary sessions since 1894, it was set on fire just one
month after Hitler was appointed chancellor in January 1933.
In the years during which it abutted the Wall as a conference
centre, West Berliners played football on i ts lawn, while
later artist Christo famousl y wrapped it in cloth. It was used
as parliament again after a reuni ted German government
returned to Berlin in 1999. Renovated by Sir Norman Foster,
this building is perhaps the most public federal building in the
world through its glass dome. On the rooftop, photographs
documenting the buildings history circle the rim above the
parliament chamber. Two ramps spiral up the side of the
dome, an engineering feat even more fascinating than the
panoramic view from the top. Admission to the rooftop and
glass dome is onl y for visitors who book online, for rooftop
access or for a 90-minute guided tour of the whole building;
you can also get in wi th a reservation at the Dachgarten
restaurant. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Prebooked rooftop
access every 15 minutes. Guided tours at 09:00, 10:30,
12:00, 13:30, 15:30, 17:00, 18:30, 20:00. Admission free.
Churches
Berliner Dom G-3, Am Lustgar ten, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 26 91 36, www.
berlinerdom.de. The fourth incarnation of this Protestant
church dating from 1905 might not look as massive if the
Stadtschloss were still standing across Unter den Linden
(the GDR regime demolished the castle in 1951). The royal
Hohenzollern dynasty worshipped and was buried here. The
climb up to the domes rim is forgiving, with broad staircases,
side exhibit rooms and good views. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00,
Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Oct-March open until 19:00. Admission
7/4.
Memorials
Fhrerbunker F-3, In den Ministergrten, Mitte, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz. No educational historic plaques mark the
site where Hitler committed suicide on April 30, 1945. For the
last month of his life, Hitler lived roughl y eight meters below
ground in an air-raid shel ter topped by a four-metre-thick,
reinforced concrete ceiling. The unremarkable spot can be
reached by walking to the end of In den Ministergrten, off
Ebertstrae. A parking area surrounded by a pre-fabricated
apartment complex covers the location, which was entirel y
sealed off during the complexs construction in 1988-89. The
bunker was once accessed through the Festsaal (ballroom)
behind the Reichskanzler-Palais on Wilhelmstrae.
Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe F-3,
Cora-Berliner-Strae 1, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor,
tel. +49 30 26 39 43 36, www.stiftung-denkmal.de. This
bluntl y named memorial avoids any vagueness surrounding
the term Holocaust. Six million Jews are estimated to have
been killed by the Nazis and this site serves as Germanys
national memorial to those victims. The design by American
architect Peter Eisenmann is a field of 2,700 concrete stelae,
or pillars, of varying height, creating an undulating landscape
that fills two city blocks. The memorial has an undergound
information centre which is not sui table for children. Q
Information centre open 10:00-20:00, Oct-Mar 10:00-19:00.
Closed Mon. Admission free.
Neue Wache F-3, Unter den Linden 4, Mitte, MS/U
Friedrichstrae. Germanys nati onal war memorial is
housed in the former royal guard house of the Prussians.
The neocl assi c bui l di ng f rom 1819 was t he f i rst
commission the famed Karl Friedrich Schinkel recei ved in
Berlin. The sole image inside is that of a woman cradling
her son, though the son is an adul t and has presumabl y lost
his li fe on the battlefield. The sculpture is an enlargement
of a pieta by Berlin artist Kthe Koll wi tz. The inscription
in front of the sculpture reads To the victims of war and
tyranny. Above i t is an open skylight that was added in
1931, when the building first became a war memorial.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Museums
Bauhaus Ar chi v D- 4, Kl i ngel hf er strae 14,
Tiergarten, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 254 00 20,
www.bauhaus.de. Sick of centuries of decorative design, a
group of young architects under Wal ter Gropius started the
Bauhaus movement in Weimar, believing firmly that by bringing
design back to the basics would improve life. Bauhaus top
years were in the late 1920s, before Nazi politics branded
it cul turall y bolshevistic. Many members emigrated to the
USA, and work continued there. The museum holds a large
room with examples of Bauhaus interiors, models of buildings
and a collection of original furniture. Bauhaus influence on
everyday design is immense - after a visit here, youll start
noticing it everywhere. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue.
Admission 7/4, Wed-Fri 6/3.
C/O Berlin F-2/3, Oranienburger Strae 35/36, Mitte,
MS Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 284 44 16 61,
www.co-berlin.info. The International Forum For Visual
Dialogues puts on regularly changing photography exhibitions
in the grand old Imperial Post Office building. QOpen 11:00 -
20:00. Admission 10/5.
Dal - The Exhibition at Potsdamer Platz F-4,
Leipziger Platz 7, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel.
+49 700 32 54 23 75 46, www.daliberlin.de. The Spanish
master of surreal, Salvador Dal, left a rich heritage of amazing
artworks when he went to mol ten-watch land himself. Over
450 exhibi ts can be viewed at this permanent exhibi tion
near Postdamer Platz. See true genius and craftsmanship
in the many paintings, sketches, books, films, objects, and
documents that are on show here. English-language tours can
be booked ahead. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Admission 11/9, tours 6.
DDR Museum G-3, Karl-Liebknecht-Strae 1, Mitte,
MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 847 12 37 31,
www.ddr-museum.de. Rather than concentrating on
the Wall, state terror and other dark aspects of the East
German regime, this popular museum presents a glimpse
of dail y li fe under totali tariani sm. A wide sel ecti on of
GDR-era obj ects is on display in several themed areas,
including media, fashi on, educati on, work, famil y and
shopping. You can hang on the couch, touch the clothes
and si t in a Trabant. Guided tours available i f booked at
least a few hours ahead. Find i t down the steps beside
the DomAquare building. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
10:00 - 22:00. Admission 6/4.
With over 450 exhibits from private
collections this permanent exhibition
provides general insight into Dal's virtuous
mastery in almost all art techniques,
in Berlins lively city centre.
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opened daily: mon - sat 12 p.m. - 8 p.m.
sun + holidays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.
Potsdamer Platz
entrance:
Leipziger Platz 7
Info: 0700 - 325 423 75
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(0700DaliBerlin)
Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de
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0,14 /Min. froma landline, mobile communications vary, max
0,42 /Min.) | *only in combination with the entrance fee.
Cannot be combined with other offers. Valid until June, 30th 2012.
permanent exhibition
The physical division of Berlin during 28 years, and
the development of two completely separated cities
on both sides of the Wall that ran between them, has
led to huge di fferences that cannot be erased in a
matter of a few years. Key sights relating to this era
are the Gedenksttte Berliner Mauer in Prenzlauer
Berg, Checkpoint Charlie in Mitte with the Haus am
Checkpoint Charlie Wall museum and the Stasi
exhibition, and the Trnenpalast, the former border
crossing beside Friedrichstrae station. Get insights
into daily GDR life at the DDR Museum in Mitte and
the Museumswohnung WBS 70 out in the suburbs.
Cold War Berlin
Wilhelmstrae, the centre of government in Prussia,
continued to be so under Nazi rule. Between Unter den
Linden and todays Niederkirchnerstrae, the only non-
Reich structure in 1936 was the British Embassy, which
still holds its ground today in a modern building. The
sole remaining example of fascist architecture is the
former Reichsluftfahrtministerium (Air Force Ministry)
built in 1935 by Ernst Sagebiehl. The grey building that
once struck fear into the heart of Londoners is now the
Finance Ministry. Hitlers New Reichs Chancellory
stood on Vostrae but was demolished after the war.
Not to let the red marble of its obnoxiously long hallway
go to waste, the Russians lined the nearby Mohrenstrae
U-Bahn station with it. The center of Nazi terror was on
Prinz-Albrecht-Strae, todays Niederkirchnerstrae. The
Topography of Terror exhibit explains the functions of
the various offices including the SS and Gestapo - that
once occupied the site.
Third Reich Berlin
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Deutsche Guggenheim F-3, Unter den Linden 13-15,
Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 202 09 30,
www.deutsche-guggenheim.com. The Deutsche Bank and
the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation present exhibitions
by world-renowned contemporary artists in a space designed
by Richard Gluckman. Four annual art exhibitions span classic
modernism to contemporary works. Its set to close in late
2012. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 4/3, free Mon.
Free guided tours at 18:00.
Deutsches Historisches Museum F-3, Unter den
Linden 2, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30
20 30 40, www.dhm.de. Whod have thought to look for a
Prussian war chest in this earl y 18th-century building sitting
pretty-in-pink by the Spree? This former arsenal houses the
German History Museum, with its dazzling extension designed
by architect I.M. Pei. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 8/4.
Free for visitors under 18.
Gedenksttte Berliner Mauer (Berlin Wall
Memorial) F-2, Bernauer Strae 111 & 119, Mitte,
MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 467 98 66 66, www.
berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. The excellent national
memorial site for the divided Germany has a documentation
centre covering the Berlin Walls history in text, slides and
dramatic film footage. An unscathed section of Wall runs
along the street; walk behind it to peer through a crack in
the Hintermauer rear wall to see a preserved section of
death strip as it looked in the 1980s, complete with a patrol
road, wires and a watchtower. Just up the street, the Chapel
of Reconciliation is buil t on the spot of a church demolished
to make way for the border defences. Walk on towards
Mauerpark for several more open-air exhibitions on the Wall.
Q Open 09:30-19:00, Nov-Mar 09:30-18:00. Mon closed.
Admission free.
Gemldegalerie E-4, Matthikirchplatz 8, Tiergarten,
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42,
www.smb.museum. Berlins largest art museum has 72
rooms full of works spanning the 13th to 18th centuries.
German masters include Drer, Cranach the Elder, and Holbein.
The Italian works of Botticelli, Titian, Raphael and others are
from the 13th to 16th century, those of the Dutch from the
15th and 16th centuries. The Rembrandt collection, one of
the worlds largest, has 16 works. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4.
Hamburger Bahnhof E-2, Invalidenstrae 50-51,
Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42,
www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Berlins wonderful modern
art museum is situated in a converted train station. Its well
worth a visit by those curious about the expressiveness of
a sculpture made of animal tallow (Joseph Beuys) or urban
dwellers fixated by bars of neon lighting (Dan Flavin). Andy
Warhol and Marcel Duchamp are the other familiar stars of
this post-1960s collection. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00
- 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6.
Haus am Checkpoint Charlie (Wall Museum) F-4,
Friedrichstrae 43-45, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstrae,
tel. +49 30 251 20 75, www.mauermuseum.de. A
homespun Great Escape museum of false trunks, tools,
videos, even a submarine, and stills of tunnel-digging attest
to necessi ty and desire being the mother of invention. Visi t
this museum for dramati c stori es of separated l overs,
freedom-seeking famili es, and fed-up senior ci ti zens in
the GDR who breached the Wall. The museum also has
art interpreting the concrete di vision of the ci ty, an exhibi t
on human ri ghts movements.QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
Admission 12,50/9,50.
Historiale F-3, Unter den Linden 40, Mitte, MS/U
Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 20 45 46 73, www.historiale.
de. The Historiale presents Berlins mindboggling history in under
an hour. Wander through the visually-oriented exhibition and listen
to short audioguide narration as you like. It starts off with large
models of the Royal Palace and the city centre before whisking
you towards the big events of the 20th century. Short films about
the general history and the Wall help understand the city as it was
and is. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 5.
HumboldtBox G-3, Schlossplatz 5, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 1805 03 07 07, www.
humboldt-box.com. A boxy modern building along Unter
den Linden marks the spot where the Royal Palace will soon
be reconstructed. This information centre has an exhibition
on the history and future of the site, a restaurant/caf and
a rooftop viewing platform. The So war Berlin film, wi th
footage from the wild pre-war years, is screened on a loop
in the cinema. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 4/2,50.
Kennedy Museum F-3, Pariser Platz 4a, Mitte,
MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 20 65 35 70,
www.thekennedys.de. On 26 June 1963, US President
John F. Kennedy visited Berlin. He peered over the Wall at
Brandenburger Tor, and, impressed after looking totalitarianism
in the eyes, scribbled some last-minute amendments to his
famous speech. This note with the phonetically spelled words
Ish bin ein Bearliener is now on display, together with the
suitcase he held when he was shot in Texas a few months later,
and hundreds of photos documenting the Kennedy familys
history. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 7/3,50.
Mrkisches Museum (City Museum) G-3, Am
Kllnischen Park 5, Mitte, MU Mrkisches Museum, tel.
+49 30 24 00 21 62, www.stadtmuseum.de. Berlins city
museum is set in an impressive purpose-buil t complex from
1908, emulating local architectural styles and donned with
a brick tower. Inside, Berlins cul tural history with exhibitions
about diverse aspects of life in the city is displayed in 50
rooms. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission
5/3, first Wed free.
Museum fr Film und Fernsehen (Film and TV
Museum) E-4, Potsdamer Strae 2 (Sony Center),
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 300
90 30, www.deutsche-kinemathek.de. Hooray for
Holl ywood, but remember that some of the personali ties
that gave it glamour and style came from Germany. Actors
Marlene Dietrich and Peter Lorre, directors Bill y Wilder and
Josef von Sternberg came out of a country with a strong
film-making tradition. Photo stills, footage, set designs and
costumes provide glimpses of the familiar, and exhibi ts
on Leni Riefenstahls shooting of Ol ympia (1936) and Nazi
entertainment cq propaganda films will impress seen-that
film buffs. The museum ends with special effects and science
fiction. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 6/4,5
Museum fr Naturkunde (Natural History Museum)
F-2, Invalidenstrae 43, Mitte, MU Naturkundemuseum,
tel. +49 30 20 93 85 91, www.naturkundemuseum-berlin.
de. All the wonders of nature under one roof; a grand collection
illustrating the evolution of life as well as the diversity and
beauty of nature. The largest mounted dinosaur in the world
towers over visitors in the main hall, and elsewhere theres
the aardvarks, the early 20th-century dioramas, meteorites,
the most famous fossil of Earth history (the ancient bird
Archaeopteryx lithographica), giant shells and the gorilla
Bobby from the primates hall. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3,50.
Neue Nationalgalerie E-4, Potsdamer Strae 50,
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 266 42
42 42, www.smb.museum. Youd think that the art world
had gone to minimalist extremes when passing Mies van
der Rohes empty glass box of a museum; the 20th century
treasures are all underground. The marvellous permanent
collection features Otto Dix, Georg Grotz, Paul Klee, Wassil y
Kandinsky, Picasso and Leger, among others. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 8/4. Temporary exhibitions extra.
Stasi Exhibition F-4, Zimmerstrae 90, Mitte, MU
Kochstrae, tel. +49 30 23 24 79 51, www.bstu.bund.
de. Near Checkpoint Charlie, this small exhibition gives insight
into the nefarious deeds of the GDRs Ministry for State
Security. Their 90,000 employees and 186,000 informants
snitched on everyone, resul ting in 111km of documents and
1,4 million photos. Learn how the Stasi intruded in every
aspect of dail y li fe, and read the personal stories of si x
Stasi victims. See also the Stasi Museum in Friedrichshain.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission free.
Topographie des Terrors (Topography of Terror) F-4,
Niederkirchnerstrae 8, Mitte, MU Kochstrae, tel. +49 30
25 45 09 50, www.topographie.de. Beside a souvenir-ravaged
stretch of Wall, the cellars are all that remain of the palace housing
the Reich Security (SS) Office. The fascinating exhibition in the
trench and the adjacent pavilion and park uses models, texts
and photos to highlight the topography of the Third Reich police,
military and security groups that were headquartered in this area,
and dicusses their organisation and the terror they cast across
Europe. The most important lesson to take home is perhaps
that these organisation only managed to thrive thanks to the
continuous cooperation of many institutes and citizens. Set aside
2-3 hours to do it justice. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
The cluster of majestic nineteenth century neoclassic
buildings on the tip of the island in the Spree offers
the avid or the temperate museum-goer a number of
impressive collections of art, history and ethnology,
covering many facets of ancient and oriental culture, as
well as their cross-overs into modernity.
Alte Nationalgalerie G-3, Bodestrae 1-3, Mitte,
MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42
42, www.smb.museum. Czanne, Rodin, Monet,
Degas and Liebermann are some of the artists whose
works hang around this museum of 19th-century art.
The temple-like structure i tsel f was buil t in 1876, and
is surrounded by a beauti full y battered coll onade.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 8/4.
Altes Museum G-3, Am Lustgarten, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.
smb.museum. This neoclassic building by Prussias star
architect Schinkel was custom-made in 1830 for the art
collection of the royal Hohenzollerns. Classical antiquities
were the focus, and today the museum uses pottery and
sculptures to take you on a well-presented tour through
ancient Etruscan, Greek and Roman history. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 8/4.
Bode-Museum G-3, Am Kupfergraben 1, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.
smb.museum. The opulent Bode Museum presents a
variety of beautiful artifacts, ranging from sculpture and
European painting collections, many religious and/or
morbid, to the Byzantine wing, which offers insight into the
daily life of a disappeared cul ture. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,
Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 8/4.
Neues Museum G-3, Bodestrae 1-3, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.
smb.museum. Buil t in 1855, damaged in the war and
onl y restored in 2009, the New Museum is new again
and is full of ancient art. The excellent Egyptian Museum
and Papyrus Collection are housed here, with spectacular
finds such as the famous busts of Queen Nefertiti and
King Echnaton. The Pre- And Earl y History collection
has finds from ancient Troy and Lycopolis to medieval
Germany. One room exhibits eleven rediscovered statues
that were considered to be degenerate art by the Nazis.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 20:00.
Admission 10/5.
Pergamon Museum G-3, Am Kupfergraben, Mitte,
MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42,
www.smb.museum. The Pergamon has the best of
Berlins classical antiquities: the Greek Pergamon Al tar,
the market gate of Miletus and the blue-tiled Ishtar Gate
and processional way from Babylon. The Pergamon Altars
enormous frieze depicts the battle between the gods and
the giants, with gals like Athena, Aphrodite and Artemis
wiping out their opponents like robed Charlies Angels.
Near-East antiquities, with an emphasis on Assyria and
Iran, and Islamic art round out the museums treasure
chest. The audioguide has an instructi ve 30-minute
highlights tour. An amazing 360 panorama image (13)
of ancient Pergamon is on display in the huge rotunda
outside. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00.
Admission 14/7.
Museumsinsel
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Trnenpalast F-3, Reichstagufer 17, Mitte, MS/U
Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 467 77 79 11, www.hdg.
de/berlin. The Border Experiences exhibition highlights the
everyday reality of the border running through Berlin. The glass
pavilion beside Friedrichstrae station was the main border
crossing between West and East Berlin between the 1960s
and 1990. Trains from West Berlin arrived here, separate
from the East German platform, and arrivals were checked,
searched, regularly humiliated, and required to exchange 25
marks. Those visiting family and friends in the East may never
see them again, hence the name Palace of Tears. Suitcases
of memories tell the stories of GDR emigrants, escapees and
returnees; maps show the planning of the implementation of
the Wall, photos recall the political tensions that saw US and
Soviet tanks face each other in October 1961, and there are
videos of a lady working in the Intershop duty free kiosk and
a glum border guard, indignant that the Wall (and his job) didnt
last 100 years as promised. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Viewpoints
Fernsehturm (TV tower) G-3, Panoramastrae 1a,
Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, www.tv-turm.de. The
skewered disco ball on the tower peering over rooftops
certainl y brings a level of humour to Berlins skyline. The
368-metre television broadcast tower, completed in 1969,
70m higher than the Eiffel tower and the tallest building in
Germany, has an observation deck and the Sphere restaurant
with a rotating floor. Photos point out the landmarks for you.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Admission 12/7,50.
Hi - Fl yer Bal l oon F- 4, Wi l hel mstrae, corner
Zimmerstrae, Mitte, MU Kochstrae, tel. +49 30
226 67 88 11, www.air-service-berlin.de. Board the
large helium balloon near Potsdamer Platz to enjoy excellent
views floating 150 metres above central Berlin. The balloon
is tethered to the ground with a steel cable, ensuring you
land on the same spot 15 minutes later. On very windy days
call ahead to check i ts in service. No advance bookings;
departures every 15 minutes. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Nov-
Mar 11:00-18:00. Tickets 19/13.
Shopping
Books
Berlin Story F-3, Unter den Linden 40, Mitte, MS/U
Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 20 45 38 42, www.
berlinstory.de. Thousands of Berlin-themed books as well
as T-shirts and souvenirs. The knowledgeable staff can find
and order (or write) any Berlin book youre looking for. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Dussmann F-3, Friedrichstrae 90, Mitte, MS/U
Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 20 25 11 11, www.
kulturkauf haus.de. Fi ve fl oors make Dussmann the
biggest bookstore in Berlin, wi th an excell ent separate
shop for English-language books, and a large travel section.
Dont miss the new 6000-plant vertical garden and the
beauti ful 3500-year old Egyptian sphinx statue in the
rear atrium. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:30.
Closed Sun.
Department stores
Alexa Centre G-3, Grunerstrae 20 (Alexanderplatz),
Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 269 34 00,
www.alexacentre.com. A mall at the eastern end of
Al exanderplatz square, wi th fi ve fl oors and 180 shops,
restaurants and cafs. Theres a massi ve ki ds area
wi th a cinema and the LOXX model train exhibi ti on. Q
Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, l ower l evel from 08:00.
Food cour t also open Sun 11:00-19:00. LOXX open dail y
10:00-19:00.
Galeries Lafayette F-3, Friedrichstrae 76-78, Mitte,
MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20 94 80, www.
lafayette-berlin.de. The 1990s rebirth of Friedrichstrae
wouldnt have been possibl e wi thout this posh French
department store. Archi tect Jean Nouvels building has a
fabulous gaping glass funnel in the centre. QOpen 10:00
- 20:00. Closed Sun.
Fashion & Shoes
Adidas Originals G-2/3, Mnzstrae 13, Mitte, MU
Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 27 59 43 81. Adidas
flagship store in Mittes trendiest shopping street has a sleek
grey and white industrial look, and stocks the top products
of the famed German brand, including retro sneakers and
items that cant be found elsewhere. Take a seat in a barber
chair to design your own shoes on the mi adidas screens.
The selection of products on offer is changed often, making
regular visits worthwhile. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Bag Ground G-2, Gipsstrae 23b, Mitte, MU
Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 27 58 31 77, www.
bag-ground.com. Classi c, daring, cute and affordabl e
quality handbags from a variety of German and international
designers. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
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Bubble.kid G-3, Rosa-Luxemburg-Strae 7, Mitte,
MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 94 40 42 52, www.
bubblekid.de. A young Berlin label producing creative fashion
for babies and children up to 6 years. The German-made
cotton clothes are functional, trendy, colourful and safe.
Online sales available too. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Comme des Garons F-2, Linienstrae 115, Mitte,
MS Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 28 09 58 80. Chic
Japanese design; fashion in the Black Shop and accessories
next door. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
East Berlin Supply Store G-2, Alte Schnhauser Strae
33/34, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 24 72 41
89. Put that Prussian eagle on your chest in cotton, or wrap an East
Berlin belt around your waist. You wont find these T-shirt, bag or
jewellery designs anywhere else, and many make cool references
to Berlin. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Hut up! F- 3, Orani enbur ger Strae 36, Mi tte
(Heckmannhfe), MU Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30
44 35 75 25, www.hutup.de. Sheer, light and wonderfull y
creative shirts, skirts and sweaters, all made of Merino wool.
QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Onitsuka Tiger G-2, Alte Schnhauser Strae 20-22,
Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 24 63 21 03,
www.onitsukatiger.com. In a remarkable ambience of high
quality materials and exciting design, combining traditional
and modern Japan, Onitsuka Tiger presents the full variety
of its Japanese shoe and apparel collections. QOpen 11:00
- 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Soto G-2, Torstrae 72, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-
Platz, tel. +49 49 30 25 76 20 70. Upmarket mens fashion,
accessories and shoes from brands not usuall y seen in
Berlin. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Markets
Berliner Trdelmarkt D-3, Strae des 17. Juni, Tiergarten,
MS Tiergarten, tel. +49 30 26 55 00 96, www.berliner-
troedelmarkt.de. Most the vendors at this antique and craft
market are well-organised, making finding that door handle, French
glass vase, Turkish kilim, or amber necklace more of a shopping
than rummaging experience. Q Open Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Kunst und Nostalgiemarkt F-3, Am Kupfergraben,
Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrae. Lining the way to the
Pergamon Museum are canal-side stalls carrying crafts
and souvenirs including red-and-green Ampelmnnchen
products. Q Open Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
In a remarkable ambiance
of high quality materials
and exci t i ng desi gn,
combining traditional and
mo d e r n J a pa n, t h e
Japanese brand Onitsuka
Tiger presents the whole
vari ety of i ts shoe and
apparel collections. Dont miss the specials celebrating
the 60th anniversary of the brand.
Alte Schnhauser Str. 20-22, tel. 24 63 21 03,
www.onitsukatiger.com. Open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:30,
Sat 11:00-19:00.
Onitsuka Tiger Store Berlin
Panoramapunkt E- 4, Potsdamer Pl at z 1,
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25
93 70 80, www.panoramapunkt.de. It takes just 20
seconds on Europes fastest elevator to get shot up to
Berlins best viewpoint, on the 24th and 25th floor of this
red brick skyscraper. Architect Hans Kollhoffs magnificent
1930s-inspired building refers to New Yorks skyscraping
glory days but also resembles the Berlin bear, complete
with a golden crown. On the top floors theres a short film
and an exhibition about the amazing history of Potsdamer
Platz square, which went from a world-class entertainment
district to a Wall-divided wasteland and back again within
a generation. The caf and rooftop terrace offer great
close-up views of Berlins highlights: Brandenburger Tor,
the Holocaust memorial, Unter den Linden, the former Wall
zone and Tiergarten park. On lazy summer days, closing
time is postponed for sunset. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Admission 5,50/4.
Panoramapunkt
Landesarchiv Berlin
30
CHARLOTTENBURG & THE WEST
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
31
CHARLOTTENBURG & THE WEST
April - May 2012 berlin.inyourpocket.com
Over 200
El l i ngton Hotel D- 4, Nrnber ger Strae 50-
55, Charl ottenbur g, MU Wi ttenber gpl at z, tel .
+49 30 68 31 50, contact@ellington-hotel.com,
www.ellington-hotel.com. Set in a beauti ful 1920s
buil ding near Kur frstendamm and named af ter the
Ameri can jazz l egend, the Ellingtons rooms have cl ean,
understated and el egant desi gn, wi th the Tower Sui tes
offering great vi ews. The Duke hotel restaurant ser ves
up i nter nati onal cui si ne i n fabul ous surroundi ngs,
and has regular jazz brunches. Q285 rooms (singl es
108 - 238, doubl es 118 - 248, sui tes 168 - 428).
PJHARUFLK
Htel Concorde Berlin C-4, Augsburger Strae 41,
Charlottenburg, MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49 30 800
99 90, concordeberlin@concorde-hotels.com, www.
concorde-hotels.com/concordeberlin. The French-run,
11-story Concorde impresses with sleekl y designed rooms
with fine woods, contemporary art and fantastic views from
the upper floors. The curved corner suites have sliding walls
and elegant free-standing bathtubs. Q311 rooms (singles
230 - 280, doubles 240 - 300, 44 suites 280 - 950).
Breakfast extra.
Kempinski Bristol C- 4, Kur fr stendamm 27,
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88
43 40, reservations.bristol@kempinski.com, www.
kempinskiberlin.de. The eli te Kempinski and Adlon are
sister properties, but this is where well-travelled regulars
feel more at home - out of the limelight, but still in upmarket
lodgings on a swank corner of Kudamm. Q301 rooms (249
singles 265 - 326, 249 doubles 322 - 447, 52 suites 470
- 1800). Breakfast extra. PHARUFLGKDC
hhhhh
Palace D-4, Budapester Strae 45, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 250 20,
hotel@palace.de, www.palace.de. Near the Europa
Center shops and the zoo, gourmands feast at the First
Floor restaurant and guests schmooze in the conference
rooms that include Tai-Ping carpets, oak panelling and
fireplaces. The staidl y furnished rooms are large. Q239
rooms (59 singles 200 - 300, 191 doubles 225 - 325,
32 sui tes 325 - 2150). PHARUFLGKDC
hhhhh
Savoy Berlin C-4, Fasanenstrae 9-10, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 31 10 30,
info@hotel-savoy.com, www.hotel-savoy.com. Utterl y
un-Berlin, this stylish Cuban-flavoured abode once made
Latin-music lover David Byrne a happy guest. Who knows
who youll trade smoke rings with in the cigar shop near the
clubby Times Bar. Q125 rooms (45 singles 142 - 222, 62
doubles 152 - 232, triples 192 - 272, 16 suites 202 - 292).
ARFKD hhhh
Seehof A-4, Lietzensee-Ufer 11, Charlottenburg, MS/U
Messe Nord, tel. +49 30 32 00 20, info@hotel-seehof-
berlin.de, www.hotel-seehof-berlin.de. Central between
the Trade Fair and Zoologischer Garten, yet overlooking
a peaceful lake and park, this is a good base for western
Berlin. Decoration varies from classical to glam, and rooms
have large fourposter beds. Q75 rooms (singles 105 - 280,
doubles 125 - 195, 1 suite 215 - 275). PHALGKC
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Swisstel Berlin C-4, Augsburger Strae 44,
Charlottenburg, MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49 30 22
01 00, emailus.berlin@swissotel.com, www.swissotel-
berlin.com. Every room here has a Lavazza espresso
machine and suites are cranking with Bang & Olufsen stereos.
When youre done playing in your room, downtown western
Berlin beckons. Youll never want to go home. Q316 rooms
(219 singles 160 - 310, 219 doubles 160 - 310, 14 suites
310 - 480, 11 junior sui te 260 - 410). Breakfast 21.
PHARFLGD hhhhh
150-200
Astoria C-4, Fasanenstrae 2, Charlottenburg, MS/U
Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 312 40 67, info@
hotelastoria.de, www.hotelastoria.de. Great servi ce
and staff, spacious rooms and a good breakfast is all you
reall y need for a memorable stay. Steps away from transport
connecti ons and Kudamm shopping, the hotel offers
sightseeing and event packages too. Q32 rooms (singles
89 - 160, doubles 126 - 190, triples 136 - 210, suites
146 - 220). hhh
Ber l i n Pl a z a C- 4, Kneseb eckst r ae 63,
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88
41 30, info@plazahotel.de, www.plazahotel.de. The
Plaza has elegantl y simple rooms equipped wi th all modern
conveniences, such as allergy-free bedlinen and free wi-
fi. The in-house Knese restaurant has solid tradi tional
Berlin cuisine, and an attracti ve terrace. Q131 rooms
(singles 80 - 150, doubles 79 - 180, triples 105 - 200).
HLGKW
Best Western President D-4, An der Urania 16-18,
Schneberg, MS/U Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 21
90 30, president@cca-hotels.de, www.cca-hotels.de.
Huge leather reclining chairs, cosmetic tables and an old-
time clubby lounge make this a smart choice for business
travellers. Besides the restaurant and bar, theres also a
fi tness centre and mul tifunctional meeting rooms. Q178
rooms (25 singles 79 - 155, 153 doubles 96 - 183, 3
suites 189 - 305). Breakfast extra. PHARFGKD
hhhh
Bleibtreu C-4, Bleibtreustrae 31, Charlottenburg,
MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88 47 40, inf o@
bleibtreu.com, www.bleibtreu.com. I ts hard to tell
the hip guests from the hip neighbours that share the deli
and caf fronting the boutique-lined street. The designer
rooms operate by remote-control but are furnished using
allergy-friendl y, ecological, natural fabrics and furni ture.
Q60 rooms (15 singles 115 - 157, 45 doubles 125 -
182). ARGK
I f downtown to you means wi de, traf fi c-fill ed streets,
crowds of shoppers, fi ve-star hotels and tall buil dings,
then Charl ottenburg comes cl osest to fi tting the bill in
Berlin. Left as a ruin after the war, the ruined Kaiser-
Wilhelm-Gedchtniskirche church is the nexus of acti v-
i ty. Between i t and Zool ogischer Garten station, over a
billion euros is being invested in impressi ve hi ghrises,
hotels and of fi ces. Foll ow what becomes an increas-
ingl y silken ri bbon down Kur frstendamm (Kudamm)
and the setting becomes more genteel. West Berlins
young scene meets in the bars and cafs branching
of f Savi gnyplatz, even i f the Szene has moved east.
Nearby but isolated from the hoi poll oi is Schl oss
Charl ottenburg, the resi dence of King Fri edri ch I. This
chapter also covers other parts of western Berlin:
l eafy Wilmersdorf and Schneberg, the centre of
gay Berlin since the days of Christopher Isherwoods
Berlin Stories.
Getting there
Charlottenburgs nerve centre is Zoologischer Bahnhof
station, along the main west-east raised city railway. From
heres its a short walk to many hotels and sights, or else
hop on the M29 bus, going east along Tauentzienstrae
and west down Kurfrstendamm.
Pocket Walk
Explore Charlottenburg from Zoologischer Garten station.
Walk east to Brei tschei dplatz for the ruins and modern
reincarnation of the Kaiser Wilhel m Memorial Church.
Strol l fur ther east down Tauent zi enstrae for the
KaDeWe department store and other upmarket shops,
or head west al ong Kantstrae to l eafy Savi gnypl atz
for calm cafs and refined dining, or southwest down
grand ol d Kur frstendamm for more shoppi ng. When
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Hotels
Ellington Hotel
T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
V Home delivery E Live music
N No credit cards M Nearest S/U-Bahn station
B Outside seating G Non-smoking room
S Take away R Internet
W Wi-Fi
Additional symbols for hotels
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
L Guarded parking H Conference facilities
F Fitness centre K Restaurant
D Sauna C Swimming pool
Dinner price guide
The number of euro symbols in our restaurant, caf and
nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price level
based on a main course with a glass of wine.
Expensive; more than 30 per person.
Not cheap; 20-30 per person.
Middling; from 10-20 per person.
Cheap; less than 10 per person.
Symbol key
32
CHARLOTTENBURG & THE WEST
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
33
CHARLOTTENBURG & THE WEST
April - May 2012 berlin.inyourpocket.com
Asian
Suksan D-4, Ansbacher Strae 4, Schneberg, MU
Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 21 01 86 73, www.suksan.
de. A short stroll from west Berlins shops and sights, Suksan
is a cosy Thai restaurant decorated with ample bamboo poles
and palmleaf roofs. Drop by for the lunch specials, or dine on
spicey Thai dishes accompanied by wine or fresh coconut
milk, perhaps followed by a cocktail. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.
Austrian
Ottenthal C-4, Kantstrae 153, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 313 31 62, www.ottenthal.
com. The pleasure in this intimate, classy bistro is that of
fresh, seasonal ingredients, often from the owners home
town, Ottenthal. Dail y specials might include foam of goose
li ver or venison pie wi th apple-celery salad. The portion
of Wiener Schnitzel could feed two. Service is excellent,
and you can rel y on wine recommendations (the list is
extensive). Wines and other products from Ottenthal such as
pumpkinseed oil, are available for purchase. This is trul y one
of our favourite spots. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00. . VGB
Schnitzelei B-3, Rntgenstrae 7, Charlottenburg,
MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 30 34 70 27 78,
www.schnitzelei.de. Nearl y as far from central Berlin as
Austria, Schnitzelei is well off the beaten track, but well worth
looking up. No tacky alpine decorations here, but a light
take on the genre, with oak patterns and subdued lighting
creating a good vibe. There are delicious schnitzels in different
variations, though you may try the German tapas or have the
great Sunday brunch buffet. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 24:00. .
Fine Dining
Die Quadriga C-4, Eislebener Strae 14, Charlottenburg,
MU Augsburger Strae, tel. +49 30 21 40 56 50, www.
brandenburger-hof.com. Chef Sauli Kemppainen dishes up
innovati ve Scandinavian cuisine in this intimate, Michelin-
starred gourmet restaurant. The
main room is in the style of a classic
Berlin salon, with paintings from the
Berlin Secessionist movement and
KPM porcelain; the cherrywood chair
design is by Frank Lloyd Wright, dating
to 1904. QOpen 12:00 - 14:00,
19:00-22:00, Mon, Sat 19:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sun. . AE h
Fir st Floor D-4, Budapester
Strae 45, Charlottenburg, MS/U
Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30
25 02 10 20, www.palace.de. A
Michelin star has been the beacon
over Matthias Dieters restaurant for
years now, and visi ting gourmands
who cant move well after a seven-
course meal make a point of staying
at the Pal ace. The cui si ne has
touches of the Far East and turbot
with caviar or prawn is often on the
menu. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00, 18:30-
23:00, Wed, Sat, Sun 18:30 - 23:00.
. PA h
Heckers C-4, Grolmanstrae 35, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 889 00, info@heckers-hotel.
de, www.heckers-hotel.de. A superbly swank place - subtle
class, from the entrance next to the steelblue bar to the
spacious rooms. The three suites (themed Bauhaus, Tuscany
and colonial) have wooden floors, large balconies, walk-in
closets and marble bathrooms complete with TV screens
next to the mirror. Q69 rooms (21 singles 100 - 150, 43
doubles 100 - 170, 3 suites 300 - 350, 2 junior suite 200
- 230). Breakfast extra. PHARULGK hhhh
KuDamm 101 B-4, Kurfrstendamm 101, Charlottenburg,
MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 520 05 50, info@
kudamm101.com, www.kudamm101.com. Furnishings here
echo the 1950s-70s, while 21st-century bi-colour rubber flooring
is underfoot. Every room has designer chairs, and rubber toys in
the white-tiled bathrooms, meant to emulate the Paris metro.
The sunny top-floor breakfast room is just what you need to
wake up. Q170 rooms (34 singles 101 - 161, 136 doubles
118 - 178). Breakfast extra. PHARULGBD hhh
Sylter Hof D-3, Kurfrstenstrae 114, Schneberg,
MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 212 00, inf o@
sylterhof-berlin.de, www.sylterhof-berlin.de. Syl t may
be a skinny island in the North Sea, but these sui tes in a
high-rise are fat. For the cost of a normal room in Berlin, you
get a full y equipped ki tchen too (a supermarket is across the
street) and rates go down for longer stays. Q160 rooms
(80 singles 69 - 120, 40 doubles 99 - 180, 40 sui tes
129 - 210). HAG hhh
75-150
HSH Hotel Albergo B-5, Hohenzollerndamm 33,
Wilmersdor f, MU Fehrbelliner Platz, tel. +49 30
86 88 90, stay@hsh-albergo.de, www.hsh-albergo.
de. Once a Russi an Or thodox cathedral wi th oni on
domes until refurbishment in 1938, the corner building
that now holds the Albergo is a good base for expl oring
western Berlin. Decorated flamboyantl y by I talian ar tists,
the hotel has spaci ous rooms wi th terracot ta til es,
cherr y wood furni ture and a top-fl oor breakfast room.
Q36 rooms (singl es 75 - 125, doubl es 85 - 135).
TALGBKW
Mercure Airport Hotel Berlin Tegel B-1, Kurt-
Schumacher-Damm 202, tel. +49 30 410 60, h0791@
accor-hotels.com, www.mercure.com. This functional
and comfortable hotel is the onl y option close to soon-
to-be-cl osed Tegel airpor t. The well-insulated doubl es
all have combined shower/baths. Chil dren under 16
sleep for free. The free shuttle bus can be ordered from
the airport information desk or by using the free hotel
tel ephone bet ween gates N7 and 8. Q184 rooms
(singles 69 - 199, doubles 69 - 199). Breakfast extra.
PHARUFLGKDC hhh
Food with a View
Funkturm- Restaurant A- 4, Messedamm 22,
Charlottenburg, MS/U Messe Nord/ICC, tel. +49 30 30
38 29 00, www.capital-catering.de/Funkturm-Restaurant.
Berlins Eiffel Tower is the shorter of the citys two TV towers. Its
restaurant, sitting pretty at 55 metres has an a la carte menu
during the day and hot or cold buffets in the evening. Dishes like
rib eye with honey sauce and baked stuffed olives or leg of lamb
with rosemary and maple syrup dressing have the nouvelle twist
the restaurant is known for. A viewing platform at 126 meters is
the perfect starter. QOpen 11:30 - 17:00, 18:00 - 23:00. . A
www.hsh-albergo.de stay@hsh-albergo.de
Restaurants & Cafs
ORIGINAL
THAI
FOOD
Ansbacher Strasse 4
Ecke Kurfrstenstrasse
U-Bhf Wittenbergplatz
Telefon 030.21 01 86 73
Telefax 030.21 01 86 88
www.suksan.de
RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE
100m to KaDeWe and ZOO Berlin
TRAVEL FAR.
EAT AT HOME.
SUKSAN
Sawatdi Kap welcome to Suksan. Experience a
temple for Thai food and cooking culture in the
heart of West Berlin, offering varied dishes with
captivating aromas and tasty combinations that
will tickle the palate. Quality, freshness, and
healthy and original ingredients are central to our
dishes, without losing sight of modern cuisine.
Under bamboo roofs, Suksan seats over 60 guests
in Thai settings. Let us take you on a culinary trip
to the land of smiles.
Ansbacherstrasse 4
(corner of Kurfrstenstrasse)
tel. 21 01 86 73, www.suksan.de.
Finding accommodation is not such a problem in Berlin;
the city has hundreds of hotels and thousands of beds.
And in a city this large, every place can call itself central.
The hotel categories in this guide are based on the
highest double room rack rate price, but actual prices
often depend on the the season and booking method.
Prices include VAT and breakfast unless mentioned
otherwise. Apartment rentals are booking; renting
one ofr a day or a month is usually much cheaper than
checking into a hotel.
Hotels in Berlin
34
CHARLOTTENBURG & THE WEST
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
35
CHARLOTTENBURG & THE WEST
April - May 2012 berlin.inyourpocket.com
German
April D-5, Winterfeldstrae 56, Schneberg, MU
Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 216 88 69, www.restaurant-
april.com. Children are welcome in this restaurant in gay
Schneberg. Theres even a special menu for them. This
bistro is great value with a generous appetiser plate for two
and specials including delicious rack of lamb. The dining is
a bit more formal out back, where tables get the white-linen
treatment. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. .
Knese C-4, Knesebeckstrae 63, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88 41 34 48, www.restaurant-
knese.de. Al t-Berliner, traditional Old Berlin cuisine, is on
offer at rustic Knese. Try the Knigsberger Klopse, meatballs
with potatoes, the pork knuckle or the calf liver with apples,
onions and potatoes for a taste of the Berlin of yesteryear at
reasonable prices. Theres also a selection of international
meals and desserts for you to tuck in to. Wash it all down with
some good South-African wine. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. AB
Renger-Patzsch D-5, Wartburgstrae 54, Schneberg,
MU Eisenacher Strae, tel. +49 30 784 20 59, www.
renger-patzsch.com. Upscal e German dining wi th a
difference. The interior is kept casual and simple, wi th all
focus on the people and the food. Serving regional cooking,
you can order dishes such as sauteed mushrooms in chervil
sauce, pan-seared pike-perch and a selection of tasty Alsatian
flammekuchen. The Sunday roast is a true feast, with wine-
braised beef. QOpen 18:00 - 23:30. .
Zillemarkt C-4, Bleibtreustrae 48a, Charlottenburg,
MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 881 70 40, www.
zillemarkt.de. Its easy to imagine Heinrich Zille, a local artist
famous for his charming portraits of Berlins lower classes,
stroll in and order a jellied boiled pork, stuffed cabbage leaves
or a Berliner Currywurst. Zillemarkt serves breakfast, home-
made cakes. lunch and dinner, and you can down a Zillebru
beer in the glass-ceilinged bar. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
International
Diekmann C-4, Meinekestrae 7, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 883 33 21, www.j-diekmann.
de. Herr Diekmann was one of the first to grace Berlins simple
tables with some French finesse, even if it was in what began
as a sandwich shop in 1976. Shel ves and drawers of an old
Kolonialwaren store line the walls, and Diekmann still uses
French techniques to primp excellent ingredients. Al ways on
the menu are oysters and a selection of French cheeses.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun 18:00 - 23:30. . AB
Duke D-4, Nrnberger Strae 50-55, Charlottenburg,
MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 683 15 40 00,
www.duke-restaurant.com. Creati ve i nternati onal
crossover meals are served in the aptl y named Ellington
Hotel restaurant, set in a dazzling 1920s building near the
Kudamm. The open kitchen allows you to watch chef cook
Carsten Obermayr create culinary treats with a Mediterranean
and Asian influence, like roast monk fish with sugar pea or
saddle of deer calf with glazed fennel. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00.
Italian
Francuccis B-4, Kurfrstendamm 90, Charlottenburg,
MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 323 33 18, www.
francucci.com. Francuccis ki tchen churns out fresh,
fresh food, with home-made pasta and bread and plenty of
regional ingredients in dishes like the veal scallop with herbs,
potatoes and black truffles. The Italian president visited and
apparently was much impressed. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
14:00 - 23:00.
Locanda B-4, Lehniner Platz 2, Charlottenburg, MU
Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 31 80 69 68, www.trattoria-
lalocanda.de. A tiny restaurant where Gianni can be found
welcoming guests, cooking, pouring wine, serving food and
washing dishes, all the while singing along to Italian classics.
The pasta, fish and meat dishes are simple, and all simpl y
delicious. Ask for the three-course surprise menu. Opposite
the Schaubhne theatre. Q .
Duke
Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00
Sat, Sun, Holidays 10:00-24:00
Tel. 030-881 70 40
Bleibtreustr. 48a, Berlin-Charlottenburg
www.zillemarkt.de
Traditional German cuisine
Over 100 years of
comfort and quality
Zillemarkt
Wartburgstrae 54
Berlin - Schneberg
Open daily from 18:00
Tel. 784 20 59
www.renger-patzsch.com
Local cuisine
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Renger-Patzsch
Suksan
Zwlf Apostel C-4, Bleibtreustrae 49, Charlottenburg,
MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 312 14 33/20 16 69 82,
www.12-apostel.de. A worn, classic interior with a vague
Tuscany/angel-theme and an open kitchen hide in the alley
next to the S-Bahn tracks. The best thing about this place,
after the great Italian food, is the fact that they never close.
The regular kitchen closes at 05:00, switching straight to
breakfast-mode, so that your Last Supper can simpl y go on
forever. The business lunch is good value, but if youre more
than peckish choose a discounted pizza. Q Open 24hrs. Also
on Georgenstr. 2, MI. . PGB
Japanese
Sachiko Sushi C-3, Jeanne-Mammen-Bogen 584,
Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 313 22
82, www.sachikosushi.com. An innovati ve kai ten sushi
restaurant - the oldest in town, dating back to 1995 - has little
boats circling the restaurant with some of the best sushi in
town. Not afraid to serve classic and new sushi varieties with
world wines, heres your chance to have bonito with Sauvignon
Blanc, or tuna rolls with Riesling. Beneath the rail way arches.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
Cafs
Caf am Neuen See D-4, Lichtensteinallee 2,
Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49
30 254 49 30, www.cafeamneuensee.de. The perfect
Berlin biathlon is riding a bike through Tiergarten park,
rehydrating with beer here, and then renting a rowboat on
the adjacent lake. This caf, restaurant and bar serves a
breakfast of champions until 16:00 as well as regional food,
coffee, cakes and cocktails. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 23:00. TB
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CHARLOTTENBURG & THE WEST
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37
CHARLOTTENBURG & THE WEST
April - May 2012 berlin.inyourpocket.com
Irish Pub D-4, Tauentzienstrae 9-12, Charlottenburg,
MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49 30 262 16 34, www.
irishpubberlin.de. Li ve music on the stage every night,
Guinness on tap, sports on TV and beers in the 36m long
bar are the key attractions that regularl y get this place
packed with punters. The Irish Pub provides all of these with
flair. Come (or avoid) on Mondays for karaoke night. QOpen
12:00 - 03:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 11:30 - 04:00, Sun
11:30 - 03:00.
Union Jack C-4, Schlterstrae 15, Charlottenburg,
MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 55 57, www.
unionjack-berlin.de. A corner of Scottish hi ghland in
the hear t of Berlin, this whisky pub is one of Berlins first
true pubs and continues to draw the punters in wi th a
coll ecti on of 401 whiskys (from the best Scottish and
Iri sh brands to Canadian and Japanese bourbon) and
vari ous English and Irish beers. Solid food is availabl e
too - home made snacks and and Walkers crisps. Q
Open from 19:00. Sun cl osed.
Hefner C-4, Kantstrae 146, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 31 01 75 20, www.hefner-
berlin.de. The most happening spot on Savignyplatz is this
cool cocktail bar on the corner with Kantstrae. Though the
lengthy cocktail menu includes all the favourites, Hefner prides
itself on having the best selection of Martini cocktails in Berlin.
To prevent the affluent 30-something crowd from getting bored,
DJs perform on weekend nights. And if thats not enough, theres
a brothel just around the corner. QOpen 14:00 - 03:00. AB
Clubs
Luxor Club C-4, Knesebeckstrae 46, Charlottenburg,
MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 887 11 83 35, www.
cluboriental.de. Dance to oriental dance floor classics in
rooms with cool colours and fantastic lighting at Luxor, below the
Marooush restaurant. Admission is free for ladies before 23:00.
The dress code is elegant. Q Open Thu-Sat 20:00-06:00. E
Gay nightlife
Connection D-4, Fuggerstrae 33, Schneberg,
MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 218 14 32, www.
connection-berlin.com/connection.php4. Bumpin and
grindin in the corridors and the cruising labyrinth moves in
time to house and techno beats on weekends. Every third
Friday of the month is mixed boys and girls night. Q Open
Fri, Sat 23:00-06:00. Admission 7.
Haf en D- 4, Mot zstrae 19, Schneber g, MU
Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 211 41 18, www.hafen-
berlin.de. Both gays and lesbians are welcome to call at
this harbour. Since theres no darkroom in which to size each
other up, patrons measure each others thinking organ instead
at Mondays quiz (at 22:00; in English on the first Monday
of the month). A DJ spins one night a week. Dont be shy to
pop in: the fl yer says drop dead gorgeous looking tourists
welcome! Their caf is open every Sun from 15:00. QOpen
20:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 04:00.
Prinzknecht D-4, Fuggerstrae 33, Schneberg, MU
Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 23 62 74 44, www.prinzknecht.
de. The exposed brick walls, square bar, and billiard table gives
this respectable bar and cruising joint a Cheers-like feel unusual
in Berlin. Picnic tables are out on the sidewalk, and leather
banquettes line the walls. Women are welcome everywhere except
the cellar and the back of Prinzknechts business card is helpfully
labeled name, address and telefon should you make any new
friends. Happy hour from 21:00 - 01:00. QOpen 15:00 - 03:00.
Toms Bar D-4, Motzstrae 19, Schneberg, MU
Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 213 45 70. Monday night
is two-for-one happy hour. No women allowed here ei ther
- wouldnt i t be horrible if your cocktail bumped into soft
mammary glands in the darkroom. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00.
Jazz Clubs
Quasimodo C-4, Kantstrae 12a, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 312 80 86,
www.quasimodo.de. Blues, jazz, funk, or soul in a casual
cellar. To find the place, go up to the terrace next to Theater
des Westens and follow the stairwell to the left of the caf.
QOpen 21:00 - 02:00. E
Pubs
Irish Harp B-4, Giesebrechtstrae 15, Charlottenburg,
MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 22 32 87 35, www.harp-
pub.de. A well-established Irish pub serving all the usual pub
grub favourites as well as soups, salads and sandwiches.
On tap theres Guinness, Kilkenny and a range of German
beers. You can expect major sports events to be beamed on
screens, and theres quiz nights and live music too. QOpen
From 10:00. B
Caf im Literaturhaus
Caf im Literaturhaus C-4, Fasanenstrae 23,
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 882 54
14, www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Some guests may be
sporting three-piece suits, straw hats, polished canes and
freshl y fluffed pups, but you dont have to be all that precious
about eating at this literary hangout. Food runs from cheap
sandwiches for aspiring writers and critics, to lamb. The 19th-
century building has airy rooms that are pleasant to dine in
on a sunny day. QOpen 09:30 - 01:00. . GB
Leysieffer C-4, Kurfrstendamm 218, Charlottenburg,
MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 885 74 80, www.
leysieffer.de. I f youre going to do i t just once in Berlin,
have your cake here. For those who reall y shouldnt, you can
shave off at least a euro by purchasing one of the day-old
pastries; how they could not be sold out every day is cause
for wonder. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun
11:00 - 19:00. B
Nightlife
Bars
Alt Berliner Biersalon C-4, Kurfstendamm 225,
Charlottenburg, MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49 30 88
43 99 28, www.alt-berliner-biersalon.de. A favouri te for
many foreigners - a huge bar wi th cosy corners as well as
areas where wild sports fans can watch a large screen.
The bar serves well-priced German and international food
as well as big breakfasts. Groups are wel come - actuall y
you can fi t 499 of your buddies plus yoursel f in here. Q
Open 24hrs. B Irish Harp
Schlterstr.15, 10625 Berlin - Charlottenburg, Tel. 312 55 57, www.unionjack-berlin.de, Monday to Saturday from 19:00
Berlin s frst English pub since 1976 shh pu p bb siinc ncee 19 19766 Be Beerl rlinn'ss ffrs rst En Engl gliss
British and rish beer on tap
Live Music during winter months
Drink from the YARD OF ALE (1 litre)
mouth-blown exclusively for Union Jack

WHISKIES
Union Jack
Open daily from 10:00
Giesebrechtstrae 15
tel. 22 32 87 35 fax. 22 32 87 36
info@harp-pub.de www.harp-pub.de
WeserveculinarytreatsfromtheGerman, Irish
andinternational cuisines.
ttt
Every Thursday from 20:00 join our popular
multimedia fun-quiz, in both German and English
ttt
Fridays and Saturdays live music from 21:00
ttt
Live screenings of sports events on big screens!
See www.harp-pub.de for our calendar of events.
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Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
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CHARLOTTENBURG & THE WEST
April - May 2012 berlin.inyourpocket.com
Landmarks
Olympic Stadium Olympischer Platz 3, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Olympiastadion, tel. +49 30 25 00 23 22, tour@
olympiastadion-berlin.de, www.olympiastadion-berlin.
de. The Ol ympic Stadium was originall y buil t under the
direction of architect Werner March to host the 1936 Olympic
Games. A good example of bombastic fascist architecture,
its size never fails to impress. The most striking changes are
the blue track and the seemingl y floating new roof whose
translucent skin offers shel ter for almost all of the 75,000
seats. On non-event days you can visit the stadium using an
mul ti-language audioguide, or on an hour-long guided tour.
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. June-mid-Sep open until 20:00, Nov-
mid-Mar 10:00-16:00. Admission 7/5.
Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg Palace)
A-3, Spandauer Damm 20-24, Charlottenburg, MU
Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 30 32 09 14 40, www.
spsg.de. The largest royal residence in Berlin, named
for Prussias first queen. Though i t began as a modest
summer palace in 1695, todays version, distinguished by
its 505-meter facade and central tower, took its final form
in 1790. You can take a guided or audiotour of the luxurious
and largel y Rococo and Baroque apartments where an eye-
glazing number of royal Friedrichs and Wilhelms resided. Also
here is the largest collection of 18th century French painting
outside France, plus a beautiful Baroque garden, mausoleum,
and Belvedere teahouse with a porcelain exhibition. Take bus
M45 from Wagner-Platz or Zoologischer Bahnhof. Q Open
10:00-18:00; Nov-Mar 10:00-17:00; Mon closed. New Wing
10:00-18:00, Tues closed. Admission 12/8, New Wing 6/5.
Photo permit 3.
Teufelsberg Grunewald forest, Charlottenburg, MS
Grunewald, tel. +49 163 858 50 96, teufelsberg@
berlinsightout.de, www.berlinsightout.de. An abandoned
and hal f ruined American/Bri tish Cold War radio listening
station, on top of a hill of World War II rubble, piled on top of
a Nazi academy - thats Berlin for you. Plenty of people slip
through the fence to have a look, but the legal way to visit is
on the informative weekl y 3-hour tour. Guides tell about the
importance of the work that was done there, espionage and
counter-espionage, the extreme security measures and the
excellent relations between the Allies and the West Berlin
population. From the radar tower there are fantastic views
across the whole city. Q Tours start Sunday at 13:30 from
the S-Bahn station. Reservations required. Tickets 15/10.
Churches
Gedcht ni ski r che D- 4, Br ei t schei dpl at z,
Charlottenburg, MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49 30 218
50 23, www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. The ruined
Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, a stark reminder of wartime
destruction, is West Berlins landmark attraction. Kept as
an open wound, the severe acknowledgement of Germanys
culpabili ty is declared on a plaque: The tower of the old
church serves as a remembrance of Gods judgment, which
befell our people during the war years. The 1895 church was
once a symbol of national pride: even synagogues contributed
to its funding. Inside is a gilded mosaic of the Hohenzollern
dynasty. The modern chapel and bell tower beside it were
completed in 1961, and are worth entering on sunny days for
the amazing blue stained glass windows. The main church
ruin will be in scaffolding until autumn 2013. Concerts take
place every week, many of them free. Q Open 09:00-19:00.
Museums
Alliiertenmuseum (Allied Museum) Clayallee 135,
Zehlendorf, MU Oskar-Helene-Heim, tel. +49 30 818 19
90, www.alliiertenmuseum.de. The Allied Museum covers
50 years of West German Allied (US, British, French) relations
in the US Army movie house Outpost. The prize exhibit is
the original sentry box from the Checkpoint Charlie border
crossing. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission free.
Brhan Museum B-3, Schlostrae 1a, Charlottenburg,
MU Sophie-Charlotte-Platz, tel. +49 30 32 69 06 00,
www.broehan-museum.de. A stellar collection of art deco,
art nouveau, and art and craft design awakens post-modern
sensibilities, blunted by so much IKEA and minimalism, to
craftsmanship, whimsy and indulgent beauty. In addition to
the permanent collection (spanning 1889-1939) of porcelain,
lamps, vases, and furnishings, are paintings, including those by
Peter Behrens and Bruno Paul, as well as special exhibitions.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/4.
Museum fr Asiatische Kunst Takustrae 40,
Zehlendorf, MU Dahlem-Dorf, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42,
www.smb.museum. Alongside special exhibitions dealing
with everything from Qing-dynasty painting to architecture,
the Asian Ar t museum has an impressi ve permanent
coll ection of Indian, Chinese, Japanese and Korean art
and archaeology. Each tradition has its own gallery, and in
the centre, a room dedicated to Buddhist art. Chinese and
Japanese painting and calligraphy are of special interest, as
well as Japanese woodcuts. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6/3.
Parks and Gardens
Tiergarten C/D/E-3/4. This 255 hectare park full of
paths, meadows, and waterways is the most genteel of
Berlins parks, but its still a fine place for jogging, football,
a picnic barbecue, or nude sunbathing (weather permitting).
The Siegessule (Vi ctor y Column) that stood in front
of the Reichstag from 1873 until 1938 now serves as a
roundabout and lookout point in the middle of the park. The
parks caf and beer garden, Caf am Neuensee, is at the
southwestern end.
Wildlife
Zoo Berlin & Aquarium C-4, Hardenbergplatz 8,
Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30
25 40 10, www.zoo-berlin.de. With some 17,000 animals of
nearly 1,500 species, this is the most varied zoo in the world.
The kids will have their faces glued to the glass for hours at the
separate aquarium complex; fish, reptiles and amphibians can
be viewed at close quarters in landscape basins and tanks.
Highlights for most children are the blacktip reef sharks and
the crocodiles. Essentail feeding times are; penguins at 13:45,
wolves, bears, monkeys at 14:00, carnivores and pelicans at
15:30. At the aquarium feeding times are Mon and Thu from
13:30. Q Zoo open 09:00-19:00, mid-Oct - mid-Mar 09:00-
17:00; aquarium 09:00-18:00. Admission 13/10 for either
the zoo or aquarium, combined 20/15.
Books
Books in Berlin C-4, Goethestrae 69, Charlottenburg,
MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30 313 12 33, www.
booksinberlin.de. A lovely nook devotedly entirely to English-
language books. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sun.
Department Stores
Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) D-4, Tauentzienstrae
21-24, Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30
212 10, www.kadewe.de. Europes largest department store,
Berlins answer to Harrods has 64 escalators linking seven huge
floors, with two floors devoted completely to gourmet food.
Have oysters at the champagne bar to take the sting out of your
shopping spree. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 21:00, Sat
09:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Fashion & Shoes
Adidas Per f ormance D-4, Tauenzienstrae 15,
Chalottenburg, MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49 30 23 63
19 44. A huge store selling the well-known Performance athletes
range, including some items not on offer elsewhere, as well as
Originals products and other leisure wear. Design your own
colourful shoes with the hands-on mi-adidas touch screens, or
test some trainers while doing computer sports games. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Budapester Schuhe C-4, Kur frstendamm 43,
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88 62 42
06. Handcrafted Italian, English, American and Hungarian leather
shoes. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Veronica Pohle B-4, Kur frstendamm 64, MU
Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 883 37 31, www.veronicapohle.
de. Fashion by 40 international designers, including Kenzo,
Temperley London, Moschino, Milly and Catherine Malandrino,
in a cool-chic boutique with competent and multi-lingual staff
along the Ku-damm. QOpen 10:30 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 18:30.
Markets
Berliner Trdelmarkt C-3, Strae des 17. Juni,
Charlottenburg, MS Tiergar ten, www.berliner-
troedelmarkt.de. A busy upmarket open-air flea market with
quality antiques and handicrafts (with prices to match), fashion,
pictures, books, LPs, and a wide range of interesting junk. Right
next to the S-Bahn station. Q Open Sat, Sun 10:00-17:00.
Mar o oush C- 4, Kneseb eckst r ae 48,
MUhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 887 11 83 35, www.
marooush.de. Refined Egyptian-ori ental opul ence
with a modern twist and gourmet food. The combined
restaurant, shisha lounge and cocktail bar has a luxurious
and tasteful dcor enhancing the equally exotic menu. Puff
on a shisha as you await your meal or come on Friday or
Saturday for dinner and dance, with bell y-dancers, live
music and a party atmosphere. The club can be booked
for special occasions.QOpen 15:00 - 01:00. E
Marooush
Sightseeing
Shopping
You could ruin a good set of heels window-shopping
in Berlin. Stroll Charlottenburgs Kurfrstendamm,
particularly between Uhlandstrae and Adenauerplatz,
for top brands. Wi t h t he excepti on of Berl i ns
proudest department store, Kaufhaus des Westens,
Tauentzienstrae is lined with mass market retail stores.
Mittes credit card trail is Friedrichstrae, between
Unter den Linden and Stadtmitte. Tank-size Bentleys
and costly ounces of French perfume now define the
street where Soviets and Americans faced off in the Cold
War. The Friedrichstadtpassagen and Galeries Lafayette
are the main emporiums. The maze of streets around
Weinmeisterstrae is where to find whats driving the
under-thirty crowd into debt. Kreuzberg has two main
shopping streets; between the bars and eateries on
Oranienstrae are bookstores, wool specialists, ethnic
grocers and internet cafs; Bergmannstrae is less
scruffy but still full of funky gift and household supply
stores, as well as a few clothing stores. Full of people
under thirty, Prenzlauer Berg and Friedrichshain
are where to watch the trends; youre likely to find an
interesting window display wherever you walk.
Shopping in Berlin
40
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PRENZLAUER BERG
April - May 2012 berlin.inyourpocket.com
Fast Food
Konnopkes Imbi G-1, Schnhauser Allee 44b,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30
442 77 65, www.konnopke-imbiss.de. The Ziervogel family
started selling their famous Wursts on October 4, 1930 (a day
that has unluckily come to coincide with International Animal
Day). This simple shack is a convenient stop for those spilling
out of the Eberswalder Strae U-Bahn; the Imbiss is just south,
beneath the tracks. To eat your Currywurst like a true native,
order it ohne darm (without the intestine wrapping, please).
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. .
Fine Dining
Nocti Vagus G-2, Saarbrcker Strae 34-36, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 74 74 91 23,
www.noctivagus.cm. Fabulous - an utterly dark restaurant.
Blind and visuall y impaired waiters will seat you safel y at your
table, where you can stimulate all senses other than sight
with the food and the live performances. Make reservations,
mention if youre an English-speaker, and plan to spend at
least two hours here. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. . AEG
German
Die Schule G-2, Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.
gls-restaurant.de. Modern and light German food on Berlins
prime catwalk. Kastanienallee, also known as casting alley, is
a perfect place to watch Berlin street style. Die Schule has a
terrace facing the street and the airy interiors belie that these
rooms used to be classrooms (hence the name). You can have all
the German food classics, and even better: you can have them all
at once: try German Kleinigkeiten, small samples of everything
the local cuisine is famous for. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. BW
Restauration 1900 H-2, Husemannstrae 1, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 442 24 94,
www.restauration1900.de. Our Kollwitzplatz favourite, 1900
exhibits some fascinating photographs of the neighbourhood
before (Trabant) and after (Smart) 1989. It serves excellent
Berlin and German food, as well as some pasta and vegetarian
options. Come on Saturday morning to watch locals shopping at
the weekly market, and on Sundays to fill up at the all-you-can-
eat breakfast buffet. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. -. TBSW
Zander G-2, Kollwitzstrae 50, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 05 76 78, www.zander-
restaurant.de. This award-winning restaurant is a fine blend
of tradi tion, innovation, and casual professionalism. Using
mainl y regional products, Zander serves mouth-watering
German and international cuisine and excellent wines in a
stylish and intimate setting. Though zander (pike-perch) is
a house speciality, the perfectl y-composed set menus are
highly recommended. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. B
International
Fleischlust H-1, Pappelallee 36, Prenzlauer Berg,
MS/U Schnhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 44 67 54 14,
kontakt@fleischlust-berlin.de, www.fleischlust-berlin.
de. A spot for those with heal thy lust for flesh can grill n chill.
Staff in 1930s outfits serve excellent steaks, cooked anything
from blue (extremel y rare) to well done. For the undecided,
theres a mixed grill, while the thirsty can del ve into the wine
and cocktail menu. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00.
Modern and light German food on
Berlins catwalk no.1
Kastanienallee 82 | 10435 Berlin Prenzlauer Berg
(030) 780 089- 550 | www.gls-restaurant.de
Eberswalder Str. Rosenthaler Platz
DAILY 11.00 24.00
U8 U2
Gugelhof H-2, Knaackstrae 37, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 442 92 29, www.
gugelhof.com. During the earl y bloom of Koll wi tzplatzs
gentrification, the success of little Gugelhof was sealed by
heads of state: Schrder, Fischer, Albright and even Bill Clinton
made surprise visits. German, French, and Swiss dishes share
the menu; this is where to try flammekuchen, a thin-crust
Alsatian pizza. The atmosphere is lively and service is friendly.
QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. . A
Italian
Pizzeria i Due Forni G-2, Schnhauser Allee 12,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44
01 73 33. Atypical for Berlin, this Italian restaurant is not very
chic, the service is rather cheeky, and the whole place has
the feel of an overcrowded student canteen. But the cheap
pizza is highl y praised, and the livel y, convivial atmosphere of
i Due Forni is the perfect primer for a night out on the town.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. UB
On a low hill northeast of Mitte, Prenzl Berg is an old
working-class district in the former East Berlin that came
through the war relatively unscathed. After 1989 the cool bri-
gade pounced on the area, and houses that were once home
to East German punks were renovated in odes to pastel. The
number of wine shops and young parents pushing pricey
prams indicates the level of gentrification here. The best
places to soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzplatz, Helm-
holzplatz and along Kastanienallee. One of Prenzlauer Bergs
best attractions is the Kulturbrauerei culture centre, set in
a 19th-century brewery complex. This chapter also covers
some places in multicultural Wedding, just to the west.
Getting there
The U2 from Alexanderplatz feeds crowds Senefelderplatz
and Eberswalder Strae, close to most attractions of
the district. From Museumsinsel and Friedrichstrae you
can use tram M1 to Eberswalder Strae as well. U-Bahn
station Bernauer Strae and S-Bahn station Nordbahnhof
are most convenient for a stroll along the Wall Memorial
to Mauerpark.
Pocket Walk
Start walking uphill along Kollwitzstrae from Senefelder
Platz U-Bahn station. From leafy Kollwitzplatz turn into
beautiful Husemannstrae, which was already restored
in GDR times, and left into Sredzkistrae where youll
spot the Kulturbrauerei complex ahead; enter beside the
tall chimney and wander through its courtyards to the
northern exit. Cross Danziger Strae and amble down
Lychenerstrae to pretty, caf-lined Helmholtzplatz. Follow
Raumerstrae west, turn left down Pappelallee and cross
underneath the U-Bahn station to Eberswalder Strae;
youll soon reach the popular Mauerpark and the top end
of Bernauer Strae with its excellent Wall memorial.
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T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
V Home delivery E Live music
N No credit cards M Nearest S/U-Bahn station
B Outside seating G Non-smoking room
S Take away R Internet
W Wi-Fi
Dinner price guide
The number of euro symbols in our restaurant, caf and
nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price level
based on a main course with a glass of wine.
Expensive; more than 30 per person.
Not cheap; 20-30 per person.
Middling; from 10-20 per person.
Cheap; less than 10 per person.
Symbol key
Precise Myers H-2, Metzer Strae 26, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 40,
info@myershotel.de, www.myershotel.de. Entered from
a quiet courtyard, Myers is an upmarket private hotel with
smallish, classically furnished rooms overlooking the garden.
Q51 rooms (8 singles 75 - 135, 33 doubles 85 - 185,
1 suite 195 - 345, 10 Premium 115 - 265). HARG
Hotel
Restaurants & Cafs
42
PRENZLAUER BERG
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
43
PRENZLAUER BERG
April - May 2012 berlin.inyourpocket.com
Japanese
Sushi Imbiss am Wasserturm H-2, Rykestrae 45,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelderplatz, tel. +49 30 44 04
57 06, www.berlin-wasserturm.de. Discounts at happy
hour (weekdays 13:00 - 16:00) crowd this fi ve-table joint,
but theres takeout as well. Sake Maki, California Make and
vegetarian items all run about 3. All sushi-lovers speak some
Japanese, but if you need any explanations, the Japanese
owner/chef and staff speak English. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. .
Latin-American
Frida Kahlo H-1, Lychener Strae 37, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 445 70 16, www.
fridakahlo.de. A gastronomic homage to the legendary
Mexican painter, the tastefull y decorated Frida Kahlo is one
of the most established eateries in Prenzlauer Berg. Try the
deliciousl y authentic Mexican dishes, the special brunch
snacks or some hard-hitting cocktails. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. EB
Cafs
Anna Blume H-2, Kollwitzstrae 83, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 87 49, www.
cafe-anna-blume.de. Named after a l yrical poem and with
a sexy Mucha flower girl on the wall, this is an excellent,
relaxed caf. Serving up coffee, cakes, crepes, meals and
the usual Berlin breakfasts, its one of the better spots for
people-watching or just reading. Intriguingl y, i t also sells
flowers (blume) from the connected shop next door - and
the smell of coffee and fresh flowers combines very well.
QOpen 08:00 - 02:00.
Schall und Rauch G-1, Gleimstrae 23, Prenzlauer Berg,
MS/U Schnhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 443 39 70, www.
schall-und-rauch.de. Noise and Smoke in trendy Prenzlauer
Berg is a great place to enjoy a breakfast buffet on lazy weekend
mornings, or to down specials at the bar at night together with
a variety of artists, students and young in-crowd. But its more
than just a caf - the adjacent eponymous hotel has modern and
affordable double rooms. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00.
Nightlife
Bars
August Fengler G-1, Lychner Strae 11, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, www.augustfengler.de.
A neighbourhood bar if there ever was one, there arent just
football tables downstairs, but a Kegelbahn (bowling alley)
too. The team behind the big wooden bar is friendl y, and the
seating area is an undulating mass of coats and groups of
friends yakking up a storm. DJs play classics, soul, disco, and
funk in the small back dance room. QOpen 19:00 - 05:00.
Santiago H-2, Wrtherstrae 36, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Eberswalderstrae, tel. +49 30 441 25 55. This
cocktail lounge overlooking Koll witzplatz has a somewhat
dodgy interior - leather sofas and gli tzy girl statues that
wouldnt look out of place in a nightclub - but manages to get
the punters in with a range of attractivel y priced offers like
cocktails during the happy (before 20:00) and blue hours (from
01:00). Theres an eat-all-you-can dinner on Wednesday and
brunch at weekends. QOpen 16:00 - 03:00.
Weinstein H-1, Lychener Strae 33, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 441 18 42,
www.weinstein.eu. Mature adul ts savour an evening of
conversation and wine at this cosy wine tavern. Pick a meal
to help anchor the 40 vintages available by the glass (kitchen
closes at 23:30). There are few better places to try the
outstanding German whites that usuall y dont make it out of
the country and theres also a selection of sherries. QOpen
17:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00.
Wohnzimmer H-1, Lettestrae 6, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 445 54 58, www.
wohnzimmer-bar.de. If the TV show Friends had to relocate
to Berlin, Phoebe would vote to hang out here. The large living
room is ideall y set up for meeting people. Stools, chairs and
GDR-era tables are constantl y being shuffled to make room
for the rumpled but attractive crowds. Theres coffee and
pastries in the morning. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00.
Clubs
Geburtstagsklub H-2, Am Friedrichshain 33, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Schillingstrae, tel. +49 30 42 02 14 05,
www.geburtstagsklub.de. Twenty year-olds fill the two
low-ceilinged rooms of this otherwise spacious cellar. Dont
miss the mad monthl y drag party with Nina Queer. Like at
many clubs in Berlin, you have to brave the walk down a dark
courtyard. Q Open Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00 - 06:00.
Soda Club Schnhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 44 31 51 55, www.soda-
berlin.de. In the courtyard of the Kulturbrauerei complex, Soda
is a fun club with an enthusiastic regular crowd. Salsa is played
on Thursdays and Sundays (5, starting off with a lesson hour),
and on Fridays and Saturdays theres five dancefloors with
electro, crossover, black and dance classics - girls get in for
free until 01:00. Q Open Thu-Sun 19:00 - 04:00.
Landmarks
Kulturbrauerei G-2, Schnhauser Allee 36-39,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalderstrae, tel. +49 30
44 31 51 52, www.kulturbrauerei.de. Follow the yellow
brick wall of this 19th-century brewery and youll eventuall y
find an entryway into a nightlife Mecca that resembles an Old
Town setting. A cobblestone pedestrian way courses through
the center of the complex, whose 25,000 square meters is
filled with bars, restaurants, clubs, galleries and a cinema. The
onl y thing you wont find is freshl y brewed beer; Schul theiss
shut down production here in 1967. Soda Club is a both a
restaurant and popular nightclub, and Kesselhaus and Alte
Kantine host anything from readings to theater to live bands.
A hub of nightlife for the hipsters of Prenzlauer Berg.
Museums
Zi mmermei ster Brunzel s Mi etshaus H- 1,
Dunckerstrae 77, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer
Allee, tel. +49 30 445 23 21, www.ausstellung-
dunckerstrasse.de. Gentrification has transformed most
Prenzlauer Berg apartments into IKEA dream houses; this
fascinating museum apartment shows master carpenter
Brunzels apartment in i ts original state, wi th extensi ve
information about its construction, utilities, furnishing and
Berlins often squalid living conditions around 1900. QOpen
11:00 - 16:30. Closed Wed, Sun. Admission 2.
Parks and Gardens
Friedrichshains lovely Volkspark also conveniently bor-
ders the district to the southeast.
Mauerpark G-1, Eberswalder Strae, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, www.mauerpark.info.
The immensel y popular Wall Park has no nature to speak
of; this is an intensel y used piece of former death strip
thats especiall y busy on Sunday when it hosts the Sunday
fleamarket and, from 15:00, the immensel y popular Bearpit
Karaoke, where anyone can grab the microphone and sing
for a crowd of up to 1,000 people.
Shopping
Books
Shakespeare & Sons H-1, Raumer strae 36,
Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer Allee, tel. +49 30 40
00 36 85. An excellent little living-room style bookshop that
came to Berlin from Prague, selling used and new English-
language books as well as coffee, tea, cakes and snacks.
Leaf through a classic novel while munching on banana bread.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
Fashion & Shoes
Cijada G-1, Danziger Strae 15, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 48 49 77 16,
www.cijada.de. An independent shoe boutique wi th a
range of hand-picked, high-quality footwear. Brands include
Birkenstock, Paco Gil, Minnetonka, Fred de la Bretoniere and
Bronx. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Tausche Taschen H- 1,
Raumerstrae 8, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae,
tel . +49 30 40 30 17 70,
www.tausche.de. Bags wi th
exchangeabl e flaps in over 100
di fferent desi gns. Two flaps are
included and various insets equip
the bag to sui t any occasi on.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Sun.
Markets
Flohmarkt am Mauerpark G- 1, Eber swalder
Strae, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Bernauer Strae, www.
mauerparkmarkt.de. Vegan snacks, bi cycl es, craf ts,
clothing, al ternative souvenirs and antiques - its all available
at the weekl y Mauerpark flea market. Arrive earl y to avoid
the crowds. Q Open Sun 09:00-15:00.
Berlin Helmholtzplatz www.tausche.de
Raumerstr. 8, 40301770
Berlin Boxhagener Platz
Krossener Str. 19, 34711150
Prenzlauer Berg Tourist Information Centre
G-1/2, Schnhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 44 35 21 70,
www.tic-berlin.de. Prenzlauer Bergs district tourist
information centre is inside the Kul turbrauerei complex.
Staff advise about events, nightlife, guided tours and
sights. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00.
Tourist information
Sightseeing
Berlin In Your Pocket: in print,
online and for iPhone
44
FRIEDRICHSHAIN
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
45
FRIEDRICHSHAIN
April - May 2012 berlin.inyourpocket.com
Museumswohnung WBS 70 (GDR Apartment
Museum) Hellersdorfer Strae 179, Hellersdorf,
MU Cottbusser Platz, tel. +49 151 16 11 44 40.
Travel back to 1986 and vi si t a GDR workers dream
proper t y; t hi s mundane but much-coveted prefab
Plattenbau museum home is the last of 42,000 such
apar tments wi th all i ts ori ginal fi ttings (drab wallpapered
ceilings), appliances (yoghur t machine, Albanian chairs)
and decorati ons (lurid fl oral patterns). The rent was 109
Marks, about 10% of the average wage, but the colour TV
cost 4,500 Marks. From the station exi t left and follow the
street around the bl ock. No English spoken or capti ons;
bring a l ocal. Q Open Sun 14:00-16:00, other days by
appointment. Admissi on free.
Stasi Museum (Forschungs- und Gedenksttte
Normannenstrae) Ruschestrae 103, Haus 1,
Friedrichshain, MU Magdalenenstrae, tel. +49 30
553 68 54, www.stasimuseum.de. East Germanys
State Securi t y Ser vi ce or Stasi was responsi bl e for
intelli gence gathering both at home and abroad. I t spi ed
on i ts own ci ti zens, sometimes empl oying the fri ends,
coll eagues, and famil y of those they wished to keep an
eye on. Today, this humbl e museum shows the offi ce of
Eri ch Mi elke, the feared Stasi minister for 32 years, in i ts
ori ginal dull state. Theres a video of Mi elke testi fying
before a panel in 1989, symbols of Communist ki tsch,
and many documents in German. Groups of 10 or more
can get an English-language tour at no extra cost, when
requested in advance. See also the Stasi Exhibition in
Mi tte. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.
Admissi on 5/4.
Parks and Gardens
Volkspark Friedrichshain H-2/3, Friedenstrae,
Friedrichshain, MU Strausberger Platz. Berl i n s
ol dest publ i c par k was opened i n 1846 for t h e
resi dents of the densel y popul ated Fri edri chshai n
and Prenzl auer Berg nei ghbourhoods; i t was soon
enl arged, i nspi red by New Yorks Central Park. Two
war time Flak towers were dynami ted and covered by a
mi l l i on cubi c metres of rubbl e to form the l andscaped
Bunkerberg hi l l s - fol i age unfor tunatel y obscures
the vi ews. Vi si t i t today for the open-ai r theatre and
ci nema, the Mrchenbrunnen fountai n wi th i ts fai r y
tal e and ani mal fi gures, meadows, spor ts faci l i ti es
and the Schnbrunn Biergarten.
Shopping
Fashion & Shoes
Tausche Taschen Krossener Strae 19, Friedrichshain,
MS/U Warschauer Strae, tel. +49 30 34 71 11 50.
Bags with exchangeable flaps in over 100 different designs.
Two flaps are included and various insets equip the bag to
suit any occasion. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun.
Markets
Fl ohmar kt am Boxhagener Pl at z J - 4,
Boxhagener Platz, Friedrichshain, MU Frankf ur ter
Tor, tel. +49 162 292 30 66. The fl eamarket on the
Boxi may be the funki est place to trawl though j unk.
There s ever y t hi ng from 1970s tape recorders to
Poli sh ar t posters and second-hand cl othing. Q Open
Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Schneeweiss Simplonstrae 16, Friedrichshain,
MS/U Warschauer Strae, tel. +49 30 29 04 97 04,
www.schneeweiss-berlin.de. Schneeweiss is extremel y
stylish, very popular, and very, very white. The delicious Alpine
and new German cuisine on the menu here is easil y a match
for the chic interior, which has won accolades for its fantastic
design. This is the place to go if youre looking for a full-on
dining experience, not just food. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 01:00.
Bars
Crack Bellmer I-4, Revaler Strae 99, Friedrichshain,
MS/U Warschauer Strae, www.crackbellmer.de. A
barn of a bar amidst all the clubs in the formerly industrial RAW
compound. Crack Bellmer is not just a place for drinking however;
theres film screenings, and a good-sized space for dancing to
DJs at 80s or swing nights. Find the entrance at the southern
end of Simon-Dach-Strae. QOpen 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon.
Habermeyer J-4, Grtnerstrae 6, Friedrichshain, MS
Ostkreuz, tel. +49 30 29 77 18 87, www.habermeyer-bar.
de. Like many Berlin bars, Habermeyer recycles the 1970s
with its light fixtures and furnishings but it also created its
own unusual wall designs. A popular table football and flipper
machine provide distraction from the loud and very varied DJ
music, though theres no space to dance, but theres free
salty snacks to console you. Q Open from 19:00 - open end.
Clubs
Berghain I-3/4, Rdersdorfer Strae 70, Friedrichshain,
MS Ostbahnhof, tel. +49 30 29 36 02 10, www.
berghain.de. A legendary techno club, number 13 in the
world according to DJmag. Pretty much anything goes on the
main dance floor, the Panorama Bar (with views) and the dark
rooms of this huge old power plant. The doorman seemingl y
randomly picks from the queue of hopefuls to create the right
mix, so that the parties are al ways varied and exciting. Arrive
earl y SUnday morning for the best atmosphere. Q Open
Thu 20:00-24:00, Fri 23:00-10:00, Sat 23:00 - Mon 02:00.
Matrix I-4, Warschauer Platz 18, Friedrichshain, MS/U
Warschauer Strae, tel. +49 30 29 49 10 47, www.
matrix-berlin.de. DJs under the Warschauer Strae U-Bahn
station lay down tracks of disco, metal rock, and black music
on three dance floors within the vaul ted-ceiling brick rooms
that date back to 1901. University students take advantage
of the drink deal on Rock-it Tuesday and Thursday, and the
more mature crowd comes on Saturday for 80s and disco
nostalgia. Friday night is for contemporary rock, ragga, and
chart music. QOpen 22:00 - 06:00, Tue, Thu 21:00 - 06:00,
Wed 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
Sightseeing
Museums
Computerspielemuseum (Computer Game Museum)
I-3, Karl-Marx-Allee 93a, Friedrichshain, MU Weberwiese,
tel. +49 30 60 98 85 77, www.computerspielemuseum.
de. Stroll through decades of computer game history, from the
1951 Nimrod calculating robot and 1980s gaming machines to
3D simulators. You can try out about 24 classic games yourself,
and have a go at Ataris huge 1977 Jumbo Joystick. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission 8/5.
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t I
Friedrichshain is a lively old
workers district that has
completely been taken over
by rad nightlife venues,
graffiti and leftist students
moaning about Touris en-
croaching on their favourite
watering holes. Tree-lined
Simon-Dach-Strae is full
of cafs and bars, while
Boxhagener Platz hosts a
popular flea market. In the former border zone along the
river, the Mediaspree development plan for offices, apart-
mens and skyscrapers is passionately opposed by many
vocal locals who fear theyll lose the river. This chapter
also includes sights east of Friedrichshain.
Getting there
From Mitte, hop on a train to S/U-Bahn station Warschau-
er Strae or U-Bahn station Frankfurter Tor. From Nord-
bahnhof or Prenzlauer Berg catch the M10 tram.
Pocket Walk
Get off the S- or U-Bahn at Warschauer Strae; enjoy the
wide city panorama from the bridge and glance back at the
dainty red-brick Oberbaumbrcke bridge before heading
north into the district. Turn right on Revaler Strae and left
on Simon-Dach-Strae for Friedrichshains most touristy
stretch of bars and cafs. A right on Krossener Strae
takes you to Boxhagener Platz, scene of the excellent
Sunday flea market. Walk north along Grtnerstrae and
Mainzer Strae to reach the grand Stalinist-style Frank-
furter Allee. Follow this west (it becomes Karl-Marx-Allee)
and turn right onto Friendenstrae for a stroll and a beer in
Volkspark Friedrichshain.
T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
V Home delivery E Live music
N No credit cards M Nearest S/U-Bahn station
B Outside seating G Non-smoking room
S Take away R Internet
W Wi-Fi
Dinner price guide
The number of euro symbols in our restaurant, caf and
nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price level
based on a main course with a glass of wine.
Expensive; more than 30 per person.
Not cheap; 20-30 per person.
Middling; from 10-20 per person.
Cheap; less than 10 per person.
Symbol key
Cup Cake J-4, Krossener Strae 12, Friedrichshain,
MS/U Warschauer Strae, tel. +49 30 25 76 86 87,
www.cupcakeberlin.de. The very first thing that we learnt
to bake together with our mothers is now a fashionable little
dessert snack with its own caf dedicated to it. Try The King
cupcake (with El vis favourite ingredients), the sweet Pretty
in Pink or any of the other creations. Theres good breakfast
and coffee too. QOpen 12:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
The Oberbaumbrcke and
Friedrichshain
Nightlife
Restaurants & Cafs
46
KREUZBERG
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
47
KREUZBERG
April - May 2012 berlin.inyourpocket.com
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Asian
Kimchi Princess H-4, Skalitzer Strae 36, Kreuzberg,
MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 163 458 02 03, www.
kimchiprincess.com. Though this is not Berlins first Korean
restaurant, Kimchi Princess is being hailed by the capitals
gourmets as the first one to serve authentic dishes - that
is, not drowned in cream and sauce like most Asian food
here. Its indeed excellent and spicy, and as a resul t it can
be difficul t to find a free table in the evening. QOpen 18:00
- 01:00. Closed Mon.
Pagode F-5, Bergmannstrae 88, Kreuzberg, MU
Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 691 26 40, www.pagode.
berlinasia.de. Simpl y one of the best Thai restaurants in
town, and awarded by the Thai embassy in Berlin as one of
the best in Germany. I t feels crowded, steamy and noisy, but
thats just part of the authentic sel f-service atmosphere;
wai t till you sink your teeth in the fantastic food. All the
Thai classics are present, as are some other Asian dishes.
I f you like i t hot, just ask and theyll make i t hot. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. . B
Sar od s Fr i esenstr ae 22, Kr euzber g, MU
Gneisenaustrae, tel. +49 30 69 50 73 33, www.
sarods.de. Kreuzbergs friendliest Thai restaurant. The
food is excellent, heal thy, fresh and gluten-free, with some
unusual options on the extensi ve menu such as the Lab
(minced meat with roast rice, coriander and spices). Theres
a good selection of wines too. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
14:00 - 24:00. .
Austrian
Jolesch H-4, Muskauer Strae 1, Kreuzberg, MU
Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 612 35 81, www.jolesch.
de. Excellent Austrian cuisine and wines in a quirky corner
of Kreuzberg. Jolesh, a classy yet good-value restaurant, is
named after Tante Jolesch, a Viennese auntie who loved to
cook. It serves a great Wiener Schnitzel as well as dishes
like goulash and Kaiserschmarrn, chopped-up pancakes with
sugar and fruit jam. Breakfast is served until 17:00, so take
your time for brunch. Reservations recommended. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 24:00. . GB
Riehmers F-5, Hagelbergerstrae 9, Kreuzberg,
MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 78 89 19 80, www.
riehmers-restaurant.de. The elegant and understated
Riehmers restaurant serves a fantastic Wiener Schnitzel
(breaded veal escalope), amongst seasonal dishes like
roast pike perch and crepes wi th roast apricots. The dining
room is kept bare and simpl e, whil e the calm summer
terrace in the garden overl ooks a hi stori c apar tment
compl ex for Prussian offi cers. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00.
Closed Mon. . B
Fast food
Ankerklause H-5, Kottbusser Damm 104, Neuklln,
MU Schnleinstrae, tel. +49 30 693 56 49, www.
ankerklause.de. The bohemians that hang out here
are late-ri sers who come to watch the Turki sh market
unfol d and wi tness how peacefull y gull s, swans and
crui se boats can co-exi st. On a good day, the French
toast wi th frui t can come out l ooking like i ts audi ti oning
for the Wal dor f-Astorias buffet. The Mexi can breakfast
will tide you over for two meal s. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00,
Mon 16:00 - 04:00.
Curry 36 F-5, Mehringdamm 36, Kreuzberg, MU
Mehringdamm, www.curry36.de. I f you want to eat
Currywurst the proper Berlin way, youll order yours here
boiled and naked. I t looks a li ttle pale in comparison to the
ones wi th their pink skins on, but you might earn an iota of
respect from the hard-boiled Fraus who work the stand.
Other proletarian Berlin speciali ties you can take to the
stand-up outdoor tables are the fried burgers, Boulette.
QOpen 09:00 - 05:00. .
Thanks to a large Turkish community and more hippies, anar-
chists and alternative folks than you can shake a didgeridoo at,
Kreuzberg feels neither east nor west. It was the black sheep of
West Berlin, literally parked in a dead-end corner by the Wall and
left alone to play loud music and draw on the walls. By now, the
protesting students of 1968 have grown grey alongside Turkish
immigrants. Every year since 1987, Kreuzberg relives its 15
minutes of fame during the May Day traditional political demon-
strations, which invariably turn into a long night of stone-throwing
and burning cars. Otherwise, Kreuzberg is all about backgam-
mon at the mens clubs, caf-sitting on the Landwehrkanal, and
ambling down the popular Oranienstrae and Bergmannstrae
drags. This chapter also covers areas southwest of Kreuzberg:
Treptow west along the river Spree, the Tempelhof airport-
turned-park which attracts thousands of visitors in summer,
and the upcoming Neuklln district. Here, the Kreuzklln area
around Reuterstrae is increasingly attracting hipsters, artists,
artsy boutiques and weird nightlife spots.
Getting there
The Bergmannstrae area is best reached from Fried-
richstrae on the U6; get off at Mehringdamm, or at Platz
der Luftbrcke for the Viktoriapark. For the gritty end of
Kreuzberg hop on the U8 from Alexanderplatz and pop up
at Kottbusser Tor; the Kreuzklln bars are within pub-
crawling distance of Schnleinstrae and Hermannplatz
stations, on the same line.
Pocket Walk
Kreuzberg is best explored in two parts. From Platz der Luftbrcke
station walk west to Viktoriapark and climb the Kreuzberg for
views north over the city. Descend eastwards and walk along
genteel Bergmannstrae, perhaps visiting a caf or the market
hall, before walking south to Columbiadamm for access to the
the former Tempelhof airport, now a wonderful park.
A much-loved self-service restaurant with inexpensive,
mouthwateringl y deli cious and award-winning Thai
cuisine.
Pagode
Motel One G-4, Prinzenstrae 40, Kreuzberg,
MU Moritzplatz, tel. +49 30 70 07 98 00, www.
motel-one.com. Basic, but cheap as chips. A budget
hotel with standard rooms and prices; check-in outside
regular reception hours is by computer. A good Kreuzberg
crashpad. Q180 rooms (singles 49, doubles 55).
Breakfast extra.
Riehmers Hof gar ten F-5, Yorckstrae 83,
Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 78 09
88 00, info@riehmers-hofgarten.de, www.riehmers-
hofgarten.de. This grand dame of a 19th-centur y
apartment building maintains her classy composure
while the funky shops and gay nightlife unfurl around the
corner on Mehringdamm. Shes unfussy and stylish and
near the popular Bergmannstrae drag. Q22 rooms (2
singles 98 - 108, 20 doubles 123 - 163, 20 triples
143 - 183). ARUGKW hhh
Hotels
Pagode
T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
V Home delivery E Live music
N No credit cards M Nearest S/U-Bahn station
B Outside seating G Non-smoking room
S Take away R Internet
W Wi-Fi
Dinner price guide
The number of euro symbols in our restaurant, caf and
nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price level
based on a main course with a glass of wine.
Expensive; more than 30 per person.
Not cheap; 20-30 per person.
Middling; from 10-20 per person.
Cheap; less than 10 per person.
Symbol key
Start a tour of the fascinating eastern end of Kreuzberg
at Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn station; wander north through
little Istanbul to Oranienplatz and follow the park to the
Engelbecken pond where you can follow the former Wall
al ong Bethani endamm to Mariannenplatz, a centre of
Berlin subculture. Stroll down Waldemarstrae to caf-lined
Lausitzerplatz and cross under the U-Bahn line to lively
Grlitzer Park. From here, go north into Falckensteinstrae to
discover more of Kreuzbergs street art, or head south along
Ohlauer Strae and across Landwehrkanal into the trendy
Kreuzklln district for cupcakes and cocktails.
Restaurants & Cafs
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International
Kaiserstein F-4, Mehringdamm 80, Kreuzberg,
MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 78 89 58 87, www.
restaurantcocktailbar.u-city.org. The wel l -known
Kaiserstein restaurant with its large and regal dining room
serves good German food and famous Flammkuchen pies.
In summer, the lovel y Biergarten is one of the best in the
district. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. AB
Italian
Gorgonzola Club H-4, Dresdener Strae 121, Kreuzberg,
MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 615 64 73, www.
gorgonzolaclub.de. An In Your Pocket favourite, serving the
best and biggest carpaccio weve had, and with lovely seating
in the green outdoor courtyard. The prices for the fresh pastas,
pizzas and other dishes are by all means reasonable, and there
are additional changing dinner options too. You cant miss it -
its the unmarked place beside the unmarked Wrgeengel bar.
QOpen 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. . B
Osteria N1 F-5, Kreuzbergstrae 71, Kreuzberg, MU
Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 786 91 62, www.osteria-
uno.de. Next to Viktoriapark, this neighbourhood fi xture
has a fantastic Biergarten bordered by lemon, cherry and
oli ve trees. Classic regional cuisine is prepared by cooks
from different parts of Ital y, and everything is made fresh to
order. Order a pasta with Toscan hare ragout or salmon in
orange sauce. Perhaps the most child-friendl y place in town,
too. Choose from six different lunch menus from 7. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. . AB
Vi col o Ber gmann F- 5, Ber gmannstrae 88,
Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 69 00 44
88, info@vicolo-bergmann.de, www.vicolo-bergmann.
de. Tasty Sicilian food is served at Vicolo: quali ty meat
and seafood wi th fresh vegetables and herbs. The small
uncluttered space, wi th randoml y exposed bri cks, i s
decorated wi th newspaper cuttings and even has basil
growing on the counter. Dont miss the sinfull y sweet Sicilian
desserts. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
Latin-American
Que Pasa H-4, Skalitzer Strae 107, Kreuzberg, MU
Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 81 49 26 14, www.
quepasa.at. Mexican food lovers this is your new spot!
Que Pasa serves sizzling faji tas, enchiladas, burri tos as
well as the tradi tional plate of nachos and all of these
all time favori tes taste just as you would imagine i f not
better. During dinner be sure to try one or two of their
many fabulous cocktails for the best price in town 3,50.
The atmosphere is also festi ve wi th Mayan paintings on
the walls and doorways. Q Mon-Thu from 15:00, Fri/Sat
from 12:00, Sun from 10:00.
Cafs
Barcomis Deli F-5, Bergmannstrae 21, Kreuzberg,
MU Gneisenaustrae, tel. +49 30 28 59 83 63,
www.barcomi.de. American-owned Barcomis became a
phenomenon with its simple concept: bring bagels, Celestial
Seasonings tea, and some fatty American cakes and cookies
to Berlins table. There are two picnic tables outside, and
inside youll have to squeeze past the five-layer display case of
lemon-strawberry-jam cake with white icing, chocolate walnut
pie, pecan pie, and other deadl y sins. Bagels can be topped
with American Phill y cream cheese, European Frischkse, or
chicken, hummus, or tuna salads. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun
09:00 - 21:00. Also on Sophienstr. 21, MI. . BS
Caf Rix Karl-Marx-Strae 141, Neuklln, MU Karl-
Marx-Strae, tel. +49 30 686 90 20, www.caferix.de. A
fabulous caf thats completel y worth the trek out to Berlins
shabbiest and most mul ticul tural neighbourhood. many
entertainment halls were buil t in this part of town, attracting
thousands of Berliners at weekends. Rix is one of the last
remaining entertainment halls in the area, dating from 1880
and all gold twirls, high ceilings and big mirrors. Its just perfect
for sipping coffee and munching on cake, or for a well-prepared
meal. Combine it with a concert at the adjacent Heimathafen
or a visit to Rixdorfs old square and lush Krnerpark. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
-. GBW
Kuchenkaiser G/H-4, Oranienplatz 11-13, Kreuzberg,
MU Moritzplatz, tel. +49 30 61 40 26 97, www.
kuchenkaiser.de. A mel ting pot for Berliners, their friends
and visi tors since 1866, the cake emperor is famous
for its cakes and tarts, which were sent exclusivel y by the
Hindenburg to New York in the 1920s. The restaurant also
has a wide variety of German specialities and international
dishes. Theres a great choice of breakfasts, a low-cost lunch,
and a huge brunch on Sundays. A must-see in Berlin. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. B
Weltrestaurant Markthalle
H- 4, Pckl er st r ae 34,
Kr euzber g, MU Grl i t zer
Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 617
55 02, www.weltrestaurant-
markthalle.de. Within a historic
market hall building, the rustic
Markthall e restaurant is l ong
and tall, with wainscoting, simple
wooden furniture and a bar that
locals bell y up to. Its a restaurant that doesnt let its
looks carry it: the kitchen takes pride in its nouvelle takes
on German and Austrian standards. The menu changes
weekl y, but count on Sptzle, Schweinebraten (braised
pork), and apple strudel. Breakfasts run from Russian to
American-style, and as late as 17:00. After dinner, check
if anything is going down in the Privatclub in the cellar.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. . AB
Weltrestaurant Markthalle
Jolesch
Gorgonzola Club
Vicolo Bergmann
Osteria N1
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Bars
Freischwimmer I-5, Vor dem Schlesischen Tor 2a,
Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 61 07 43
09, www.freischwimmer-berlin.de. After a fi ve-minute
walk south of Schlesisches Tor, follow the bush-lined pathway
left after the petrol station to this peaceful bar that hovers
over a side canal. In summer use the comfy deck lounges; in
cooler weather heat lamps help keep away the chill. QOpen
16:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00.
Hoppetosse I-5, Eichenstrae 4, Kreuzberg, MU
Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 53 32 03 40, www.
moneypennys-club.de. Theres nothing like cooling off from
a dance floor by walking one flight to a roof with a view. Here,
its the deck of a docked boat on the Spree. In sight upstream
are the Oberbaumbrcke and Universal Music headquarters.
Thursday is reggae, ragga, and dancehall night; genres
al ternate from Friday to Saturday. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sat
14:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon.
Milchbar H-4, Manteuffelstrae 41, Kreuzberg, MU
Grlitzer Bahnhof, www.milchbar-berlin.de. It is the foam
of beer that lines the upper lip of patrons of Milchbar, home
to punks, students, and aging al ternative types still loyal to
the sounds of punk, ska, thrash, and hard rock. The crowd is
not so anarchic as to not want to cheer on their teams when
football games are screened. The murals and dark dcor can
heighten your wooziness if youve had one round too many.
QOpen 17:00 - 03:00. V
Wrgeengel H-4, Dresdener Strae 122, Kreuzberg,
MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 615 55 60, www.
wuergeengel.de. Pronounced woor-ge-en-gel and named
after Bunuels film El ngel Exterminador, this dark brown
bar is a great place for a drink and a snack. The tapas list
has a dozen tasty options, while the cocktail menu has over
50 reasons to delay your departure. To round it all off, there
are Cuban and other cigars to enjoy. Q Open from 19:00.
Beer gardens
Golgatha F-5, Kat zbachstrae (Viktoriapark),
Kreuzberg, MU Platz der Luftbrcke, tel. +49 30 785
24 53, www.golgatha-berlin.de. The most gruesome
end youll meet at this Biergarten at the southwest end of
Viktoriapark is the sunrise. Those watching their melanoma
sit under the red umbrellas near the table-football and grill,
while sunbathers go to the rooftop for a view of the playground
and football field. DJ music begins nightl y at 22:00 inside on
the small dance floor. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00. BW
Museums
Berlinische Galerie G-4, Alte Jakobstrae 124-128,
Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, tel. +49 30 78 90
26 00, www.berlinischegalerie.de. This museum for
modern art, photography, architecture, and artist archives
concentrates 120 years worth of creativity forged in Berlin.
Artists represent the Secession, Expressionist, Dada, New
Objectivity movements, and those representing the divided
Berlin. Giants of German art include Heinrich Zille, Otto Dix,
George Grosz, Hannah Hch and Wolf Vostell. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 8/5, first Mon 4. Free for
visitors under 18.
Jdisches Museum Berlin (Jewish Museum) F-4,
Lindenstrae 9-14, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, tel.
+49 30 25 99 33 00, www.jmberlin.de. The famous
zinc-plated fortress designed by Daniel Libeskind contains a
moving perspective on the many ways in which German life
and Jewish history are intricatel y interwoven. The interior
contains dark voids for contemplation, but the exhibits cover
much more than the Holocaust chapter of Jewish history
in Germany. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 22:00.
Admission 5/2,50, special exhibi tions 4/2, combined
ticket 7/3,50.
Martin-Gropius-Bau F-4, Niederkirchnerstrae 7,
Kreuzberg, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48
60, www.gropiusbau.de. Dusty pink brick, gilded mosaics,
stucco work run riot - this is the work of Great Uncle Gropius,
not Walter Bauhaus Gropius. Completed in 1881, the beauty
once held an arts and crafts museum, and nothing on the
touristy block can hold a candle to i t. Today the Martin-
Gropius-Bau hosts excellent touring exhibi tions. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue.
Kuchenkaiser
Kreuzbergs Paul-Linke-Ufer in spring
Since 1866
German specialities
International crossover cuisine
Open daily from 9:00
Oranienplatz 11-13
Tel: 61 40 26 97
restaurant@kuchenkaiser.de
www.kuchenkaiser.de
Wrgeengel
Nightlife
Sightseeing
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Parks & Gardens
Grlitzer Park H/I-5, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof. A li vel y
14-hectare park on the site of a rail way station that was
demolished after it was cut off from its destination by the
Wall. The Grli has fields, lakes, a petting zoo, the Edel weiss
beer garden and a thri ving trade in smokable flora. On a
balmy afternoon, theres no better place to be in Kreuzberg.
Tempelhof er Freiheit MS/U Tempelhof, www.
tempelhoferfreiheit.de. Where else can you run for fi ve
minutes with your eyes closed? Berlins most amazing space
is this historic and wide open airport just south of Kreuzberg,
which closed in 2008 and was opened as a park in 2010. Now
the runways and taxi lanes are used by bikers, inline skaters
and kiteboarders; the fields around them are used by rare
breeding skylarks (from April-Jul y), picnickers, barbecuers,
artists, kite-flyers, gardeners and dog-walkers. Theres even a
Biergarten at the northern end. Note that turnstiles allow exit
from the park after closing time as well. Also easil y accessed
from U-Bahn stations Tempelhof and Boddinstrasse. Visit
on 20 May for the 2012 season opening festival. Q Open
March 06:00-19:00, April & Sept 06:00-20:30, May & Aug
06:00-21:30, June & July 06:00-22:30, Oct 07:00-19:00, Dec,
Jan 07:30-17:00, Feb & Nov 07:00-18:00. Admission free.
Viktoriapark F-5, Kreuzbergstrae, Kreuzberg, MU
Mehringdamm. Before heading up the hill, crowned with Karl
Friedrich Schinkels memorial to the Napoleonic Wars, go to the
corner of Kreuzbergstrae and Grobeerenstrae for an eyeful
of the parks waterfall, constructed in the late 19th century. Kids
stripped to their knickers wade in between the shallow, tiered
levels. 65 metres above, people lean back against the graffiti-
laden monument to take in the panoramic view. Towards the
back of the park, past a playground and off the Bacci field, is the
Golgotha beer garden. Running parallel to Kreuzbergstrae is a
small petting zoo where children and goats get to meet and bleat.
Wellness
Arena Badeschiff I-5, Eichenstrae 4, Treptow,
MS Treptower Park, tel. +49 30 533 20 30, www.
arena-berlin.de. Float in water thats floating in water at
the Badeschiff. The bathing ship is a swimming pool in a
converted barge moored in the River Spree with an open-air
bar and beach area next to it. Covered in winter, after April
its wide open to 360 views of the river and city. Massages,
towels and flipflops are available. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
Admission from 12 for 3 hours.
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Berlinische Galerie Events
The Berlinische Galerie, Berlins museum of
modern art, photography and architecture,
i s one of the newest museums i n the
German capital and collects art from Berlin
dating from 1870 to the present day with
both a local and international focus. Its
outstanding collections include Dada Berlin,
the Neue Sachlichkeit (New Objectivity) and
the Eastern European avant-garde. The art
of the divided and reunified city of Berlin
provides another focus.
Boris Mikhailov. Time is out of joint.
Photography 1966-2011
Until 28 May
Si nce he f i r st began wor ki ng wi t h
photography i n the mi d 1960s, Bori s
Mikhailov (*1938 in Kharkov/Ukraine) has
produced a wide, impressively complex
and multi faceted oeuvre. Over the years
he has exhausted the mediums full range
of possibilities with great virtuosity and
drawn a merciless yet ironically humorous
picture of his direct surroundings. This is the first extensive
exhibition of the artists work in Germany.

Michael Sailstorfer. Vattenfall Contemporary 2010
26 April 8 October
Mi chael Sai l stor fer (*1979 i n Vel den /Germany) i s
the wi nner of the Vattenfal l Contemporary 2012.
The central theme of hi s fi rst sol o exhi bi ti on i n a
Berl i n museum i s the forest. Through
a li ve vi deo broadcast of trees twisting
upsi de down, he brings nature into the
Berlin Gall ery, and l ets the contrasting
worl ds colli de.
From the collection: streets and faces
1918-1933
Until 28 May
The exhi bi tion of some 60 works from
t he gr aphi cs col l ect i on shows how
artists wittily commented on the societal
changes of the Weimar Republi c using
their pens. On display are drawings by
Max Beckmann, Otto Di x and George
Grosz, among others.
12x12
IBB-Videolounge at the Berlinische
Galerie
Until 26 September
For a peri od of one year, vi deo works
of 12 ar t i st s wh o have at t r ac t ed
attenti on wi th thei r i nnovati ve use of fi l m and vi deo
wi l l be pr esented i n t he I BB vi deo l ounge. The
new program format i ntroduces new tal ents, and
establ i shed vi deo ar ti sts are al so i nvi ted to show
thei r works. Ever y month a program i s put together
t hat i s represent at i ve for each ar t i st s oeuvre.
The vi deo l ounge i s real i sed wi th suppor t of the
I nvesti ti onsbank Berl i n.
Boris Mikhailov, Rote Serie,
1968-75, Boris Mikhailov,
Courtesy Galerie Barbara
Weiss, Berlin
VOUCHER _ TWO FOR ONE
In exchange for this voucher you will receive
two day tickets for the price of one
(29,50 instead of 59,00 ).
Valid fromMonday to Thursday until 31th August 2012.
Mcckernstrae :o :op6 8erln
Fon 030- 25800782- 0 www. liquidrom- berlin.de
Liquidrom F-4, Mckernstrasse 10, Kreuzberg,
MS Anhalter Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 258 00 78 20,
www.liquidrom-berlin.de. Try out urban bathing at this
combination of a deluxe spa with quirky extras. Apart from the
impressive domed warm salt water pool there are saunas and
Roman baths, a sunny Japanese terrace with an onsen bath,
massages and a hamam ceremony. Float around to a relaxing
light and music show with live music performed on Thursdays
to Saturdays. Music includes DJ sets, Jazz, electronic music,
harp and didgeridoo.QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 -
01:00. Admission from 19,50 for 2 hours.
Liquidrom: Urban Bathing
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April - May 2012 berlin.inyourpocket.com
RIVER CRUISES
Jewish Museum: Berlin Transit
Until 15 July 2012
Berlin Transit Jewish migrants from Eastern Europe
in the 1920s.
As a hub connecting East and West, Berlin was a place
of refuge and a way station for tens of thousands of Jews
from Eastern Europe starting in the late nineteenth century,
and particularly after the First World War. Most of them
were fleeing westwards, away from the war, revolution and
pogroms of the former Russian Empire and the Habsburg
Monarchy. With its multilingualism and complex internal
networks, the community of Eastern European immigrants
brought about a heyday of Jewish culture in Berlin. Many of
the poor Jewish immigrants lived in the Scheunenviertel area
near Alexanderplatz, others in middle-class Charlottenburg,
a district of the city referred to as Charlottengrad on
account of the high proportion of Russians who lived there.
This cultural-historical exhibition focuses on the diverse
worlds of Eastern European Jews in Berlin of the Weimar
Republic, and presents a wealth of unknown materials:
literary and autobiographic texts can be heard in their
original languages (Russian, Yiddish, Hebrew and German),
largely unknown photographs of the Scheunenviertel are
subject to critical analysis and newly interpreted. A cycle
of pogrom images by Issachar Ber Ryback is on display
in Berlin for the first time since 1924. His avant-garde
watercolours join in dialogue with Leonid Pasternaks
paintings and Naum Gabos sculptures. In the exhibitions
epilogue, visitors are invited to trace and visit largely
forgotten places associated with the Eastern European
Jews in Berlin.
Jdisches Museum Berlin, Lindenstrae 9-14,
Kreuzberg, U Hallesches Tor, +49 30 25 99 33 00,
www.jmberlin.de. Open 10:00-20:00, Mon 10:00-22:00.
Admission: exhibition 4/2, combined with the permanent
exhibition 7/3,50.
23.3. 15. 7.12
Jewish Migrants
from Eastern Europe
in the 1920s
www.jmberlin.de/berlin-transit
SAVE 50%
Get two regular adult tickets
for the price of one upon
presentation of this ad.
(Valid until 15 July 2012)
Entrance to the Konditorei Kempler and the Krakauer
Caf on Grenadierstrae, Berlin 1926
JMB, Gift of Hillel Kempler
The Berlin Transit exhibition JMB, Jens Ziehe
After flowing a bucolic 400km from the Czech border re-
gion to Berlin, the river Spree goes out with a bang before
disappearing into the Havel near Spandau. Cutting a curvy
passage through Berlin, it provides tremendous views of the
Dom cathedral, the Reichstag and the government district
and the Berlin Wall near Ostbahnhof. Some of the Spree is
diverted along park-lined canals, and Berlin has more bridges
than Venice or Amsterdam.
Short city centre cruise tours depart regularly from the
boat landings near the Museumsinsel, Friedrichstrae,
Hauptbahnhof station and the Haus der Kulturen in the
park. The 3.5-hour Brcke (bri dges) tours l eave from
Mrkisches Ufer near Mrkisches Museum, Jannowitz-
brcke and Kottbusser Brcke, cruising past all the city
centre si ghts and down Landwehrkanal and past the
beauti ful Oberbaumbrcke. Here we list the tours with
English narration. Sail away.
Reederei BWSG G-3, Burgstrae (Alte Brse jetty),
Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 651 34
15, www.bwsg-berlin.de. Besides the regular, short City
Spreefahrt tour between the Haus der Kul turen der Wel t and
the Mhlendammschleuse locks, BWSG has a 2,5-hour East
Side Tour at 14:45 that takes in the remains of the Wall and
new developments in Eastern Berlin. Q Tickets 10,50/5,25;
East Side tour 21/10,50.
Reederei Riedel E-3, Willy-Brandt-Strae (Ludwig-
Erhard-Ufer jetty), Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel.
+49 30 693 46 46, www.reederei-riedel.de. Riedels
panorama shi ps offer 1-2 hour Stadtkernfahr t ci t y
centre tours up to 20 times per day, departing from near
Hauptbahnhof, the Haus der Kul turen and Mrkisches Ufer.
The 1-3 hour Spreefahrt tour, twice per day, travels from
the O2 World stadium via the Fischerinsel and Haus der
Kul turen to Mrkisches Ufer. The 2-3,5 hour Brckenfahrt
tour sails up to four times dail y from Mrkisches Ufer; an
addi tional evening cruise departs at 19:00. Q Ti ckets
10-20/5-10.
Stern und Kreisschiffahrt G-3, Karl-Liebknecht-Strae
(Nikolaiviertel jetty), Mitte, MU Klosterstrae, tel. +49
30 536 36 00, www.sternundkreis.de. Stern has dozens
of vessels conducting tours in Berlin and surroundings.
Their historical ci ty centre tours depart every hal f hour
from the Nikolaiviertel, stopping off at the Kanzleramt and
Berliner Dom. The Spreefahrt river tour, four times dail y from
Schlossbrcke in Charlottenburg, takes in the river north of
Treptow. The longer Brckenfahrt tour loops around town
dozens of times per day; Friedrichstrae and the Kanzleramt
are convenient jettys. Q Tickets: city centre tour 10-11,
Spreefahrt 10,5-20, Brckenfahrt 15-20.
- BERL!NER WASSER
SPORT UND SERv!CE GNBH
W!R GEBEN DEN WELLEN CHARAKTER
www.bwsg-berlin.de
12557 Berlin, Wendenschlostrae 350-354
tel: +49 30 6513415 action 25% in your pocket
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Reederei Winkler F-3, Reichstaguf er jetty,
Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 349 95
95, www.reedereiwinkler.de. Winkl ers one-hour
Stadtrundfahrt tours depart up to 10 times dail y from
beside Friedrichstrae station. The 3-3,5 hour Spreefahrt
river tours, up to four times dail y from Schlossbrcke in
Charlottenburg, take in the river beyond the city centre
sights. There are evening departures too, and check the
website for Winklers special culinary and party cruises.
Q Tickets: Stadtrundfahrt tour 10,50/8, Spreefahrt
tour 19-20/17-18.
Reederei Winkler
56
CITY TOURS
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
57
CITY TOURS
April - May 2012 berlin.inyourpocket.com
resident artists poke at Berlins dark, fuzzy underbell y on
a variety of walks; theres also a free short walks (dail y at
11:00 and 13:00), twilight tours, a street art workshop and
an anti-pubcrawl. Q Tickets 10-20.
Berlin Locals tel. +49 177 238 00 02, inf o@
berlinlocals.com, www.berlinlocals.com. Tailor-made
ci ty tours on foot, by minibus or by limo, l ead by l ocal
German historians who can often relate historical events to
their famil ys personal experience. Groups are kept small to
guarantee quality, and tour themes range from 1920s Berlin
to street art, industry, rail ways and archi tecture. Tours in
Germany too. Q Tours 40 per hour, 250 per day.
Berlin on Bike G-2, Knaackstrae 97, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Eberswalderstrae, tel. +49 30 43 73 99 99, anmeldung@
berlinonbike.de, www.berlinonbike.de. Choose from two
regular guided bike tours: the Berlin Wall Tour (Tue, Thu, Sat at
11:00) covers 11km of the Wall and includes a visit to one of the
last border watchtowers; the Berlins Best tour (Mon, Wed, Fri,
Sun at 11:00) cycles past the citys main sights. Themed tours
of the east, Kreuzberg and nightlife are on demand. Tours start
in court 4 of the Kulturbrauerei, or join at the Berliner Bank on the
corner of Eberswalder Strae and Schnhauser Allee. Theres also
regular bike rental for 10 per 24 hours. Reservations required
for all tours. Q Tickets 19 including bike, 14 with your own.
Bowie Walk berlin@f eelinggloomy.com, www.
feelinggloomy.com. The world-famous British rock artist David
Bowie had nearly succumbed to fame, drugs and paranoia when
he moved to Berlin in 1976. He recovered well, partied hard with
Iggy Pop and made three albums before his departure in 1980,
including the epic Heroes. Every month the Feeling Gloomy
collective conducts a fun little two-hour walking tour past Bowies
house in Schoeneberg and the studios where he recorded,
highlighting the Berlin adventures of the White Duke. QTickets 5.
Berlin Underworlds
The Berl i n Under worl ds Associ ati on al l ows you to
experience Berlins history from an unusual perspective,
through its underground installations dating back to the
Cold War, World War II, or earlier. Though predominantly
in the spaces below Berlins Gesundbrunnen station,
tours are also offered in several other complexes that are
usually not accessible to the public. With prior notification,
tours can be arranged for groups of minimum 20 people
at other times.
The following tours are held in English; they also take place
in German and Spanish at other times, and various tours
are held in Dutch, French, Italian and Danish.
Tour 1: Dark Worlds A bunker from the Nazi era. Mar-
Nov Mon 11:00 and 13:00, Wed-Sun 11:00; Dec-Feb Mon
11:00 and 13:00, Thu-Sun 11:00.
Tour 2: From Flak Towers to Mountains of Debris. Enter
a devastated albeit fascinating underground world. Apr
1 - Oct 31, Thu-Sun 16:00.
Tour 3: Subways, Bunkers, Cold War a political history
of Berlin from an unusual perspective.
Mar-Nov Tues 11:00 and 13:00, Wed-Sun 13:00; Dec-Feb
Thu-Sun 13:00.
Tour M Breaching the Berlin Wall: Subterranean escapes
from East to West Berlin. Mar-Nov, Sun 10:30.
For further information see www.berliner-unterwelten.de.
Tickets 10/8, Tour M 13/10 (no reservation required);
the meeting point is at the southern entrance of the
Gesundbrunnen U-Bahn station at Brunnenstrae 105,
tel. +49 30 49 91 05 17.
Berliner Unterwel ten e.V/Frieder Salm
Berliner Unterwel ten e.V/Stefan Gier
Berlin is a huge, fascinating city, but lacks a real Old Town-
type area. Attractions are fairly far-flung, so plan your itinerary
and get acquainted with the excellent public transportation.
If youre here for a limited amount of time, we highly recom-
mend you join one of the walking or cycling tours to get
your bearings and see the main sights.
Bus & Car Tours
Its unnarrated, but Berlins cheapest bus tour is on the double-
decker N100 and 200 buses. These run between Alexander-
platz and Zoologischer Bahnhof, with N100 passing through
Tiergarten and past the Reichstag, and N200 taking a more
southern route via the embassy district and Potsdamer Platz,
before both lines converge on Unter den Linden.
Berlin City Tour tel. +49 30 68 30 26 41, www.
berlin-city-tour.de. Open-top doubledecker buses circle
the main sights in about two hours; the green ones have live
English commentary; red ones have audioguides. Board at
Kurfrstendamm 14, the Town Hall or Brandenburger Tor and
hop-on or hop-off as you like. Theres also a narrated Wall &
Lifestyle tour taking in the main Wall sights and some trendy
districts. Q Tickets 15/12/5.
City Circle Buses tel. +49 30 88 56 80 30, www.
berolina-berlin.com. Several tour bus companies operate
hop-on hop-off double-decker bus City Circle tours lasting 2.5
hours. Buses run every 10 minutes, with narration in a dozen
languages. Kurfrstendamm 220 and Alexanderplatz are the
two main starting points, but you can get on and off at some
20 stops. Besides Berolina, the operators are Berliner Bren
Stadtrundfahrt (www.bbsberlin.de), BEX Sightseeing (www.
berlinerstadtrundfahrten.de) and Bus Verkehr Berlin (www.
bvb.net). QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 22/11. Afternoon
ticket (from 13:30) 16,50/11.
Walking & Cycling Tours
Theres a story on every corner in Berlin, though youll need
a guide to hear it. Several companies offer affordable or free
city centre highlight tours, lasting about 4 hours and lead by
enthusiastic English-speaking expats, hoping youll sign up for
their more specialised tours. Booking is usually not required, just
show up at the meeting points (usually at Hackescher Markt,
and 30 minutes beforehand at Zoo Bahnhof). Weve also in-
cluded several fun specialised tours. Dont forget to tip the guide.
Alternative Berlin Tours MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel.
+49 16 28 19 82 64, www.alternativeberlin.com. After
the four-hour Real Berlin tour (dail y at 12:00, 12) youll know
all about Berlins subcul tures, the graffi ti and stencil art,
street artists like Thierry Noir and Mr.6, the gay scene, and
the squatter and anti-fascist movements. Knowledgeable
BERLINER UNTERWELTEN E.V.
Society for the Exploration and Documentation of Subterranean Architecture
Berlin from below
Cold War and WW II bunker tours
Different tours every day see: www.berliner-unterwelten.de
Subway: Gesundbrunnen (U8), southern entrance-hall Brunnenstrae 105
Al ternative Berlin Tours
Berlin Locals
East Germanys cuddly two-stroke, 26-horsepower,
plastic peoples car, recognisable by the 1950s design,
the characteristic bem bem bem sound and the cloud
of blue smoke, has by now nearly been wiped off the
streets of Berlin. Heres how to let off some fumes while
seeing the sights.
Trabi Safari F-3, Zimmerstrae 97, Mitte, MU
Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 27 59 22 73, www.trabi-
safari.de. Drive your own Trabant; you are quickl y shown
how to operate the revol ver-like gearshift and then off
you go on a slow, one-hour trip through the eastern part
of town in a column of up to six farting Trabis. Choose
from a fleet of 100 colourful cars. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Tickets 79-89 per person.
Trabant Tours
58
CITY TOURS
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
59
DIRECTORY
April - May 2012 berlin.inyourpocket.com
Business connections
American Chamber of Commerce Charlottenstrae
42, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 28 87 89
21, www.amcham.de.
Deutsche I ndustri e- und Handel skammer
(Chamber of Commerce) Breite Strae 29, Mitte,
MU Mrkisches Museum, tel. +49 30 20 30 80, www.
dihk.de.
Dentists
Dr. Claudia Krater Konstanzer Strae 56, Wilmersdorf,
MU Konstanzer Strae, tel. +49 30 885 20 00.
Dr. Wolf-Ulrich Klotz Bayreuther Strae 8, Schneberg,
MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 213 10 10.
Doctors
Dr. Alexandra Heiser Kur fr stendamm 139,
Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 89
54 07 50.
Dr. Karin Wrobel Schnhauser Allee 126 A, Prenzlauer
Berg, MS/U Schnhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 448 57 67.
Dr. med. Michael Oppel Der ff lingerstrae 14,
Tiergarten, MU Kurfrstenstrae, tel. +49 30 44 72 81
28, fax +49 30 44 72 81 29, oppel@integrative-medizin.
com, www.integrative-medizin.com.
Embassies
Australia G-3, Wallstrae 76-79, Mitte, MU Mrkisches
Museum, tel. +49 30 880 08 80, www.australian-
embassy.de.
France F-3, Pariser Platz 5, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger
Tor, tel. +49 30 590 03 90 00, www.botschaf t-
frankreich.de.
Ireland F-3, Friedrichstrae 200, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte,
tel. +49 30 22 07 20, www.botschaft-irland.de.
New Zealand F-3, Friedrichstrae 60, Mitte, MU
Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 206 21 10, www.nzembassy.com.
United Kingdom F-3, Wilhelmstrae 70-71, Mitte,
MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20 45 70, www.
britischebotschaft.de.
USA F-3, Pariser Platz 2, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger
Tor, tel. +49 30 830 50, www.usembassy.de. American
Citizen Services: tel. 832 92 33.
Hospitals
Benjamin Franklin Clinical Centre Klingsorstrae,
Steglitz, MS/U Rathaus Steglitz, tel. +49 30 84 45 30
15, www.medizin.fu-berlin.de.
Charit Universittsklinikum F-3, Schumannstrae
20-21, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 45
050, www.charite.de.
Interpreters & Translators
Alphabeta Kaiser-Friedrich-Strae 88, Charlottenburg,
MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 30 34 70 79 52,
www.alphabeta-uebersetzungen.com.
A-Translation Gutschmidtstrae 12a, Neuklln, MU
Britz Sd, tel. +49 30 602 12 04, www.a-translation.de.
Zappmedia Prinzregentenstrae 40, Wilmersdorf,
MS/U Bundesplatz, tel. +49 30 800-9999277, www.
zappmedia.de.
Emergencies, ambulance, fire tel. +49 30 112;
Emergency doctor service tel. +49 30 31 00 31;
Police tel. +49 30 110;
Non-urgent police matters tel. +49 30 46 64 46 64.
Emergency numbers
Ber l i n Mat t er o f
Memory by the Berli n-
based Danish archi tect
Fr edr i k Tor i sson i s a
fasci nati ng expl orati on
of some of Berlins more
remarkable monuments,
def i ned as structures
t h a t a r e me a n t t o
c onvey a h i s t or i c al
l esson as i nterpreted
by the creator, and i ts
rel i cs, actual hi stori cal
structures or places that
are open to interpretation
and therefore potentially
dangerous. Read all about the tragedy of Berlins Royal
Palace and the farce of its reconstruction, the field of
memories at the Topography of Terror exhibition and
the Holocaust memorial, the voids left by the Wall and
the multiple historical layers at Teufelsberg. The book
(ISBN 9780955463211) is for sale for about 12,50 at
Pro QM (Almstadtstrae 48-50), Buchhandlung Walther
Knig (Burgstrae 27), Do You Read Me? (Auguststrae
28) and Motto (Skalitzer Strae 68) and online via www.
mottodistribution.com.
Berlin in books
The low cost of living draws thousands of artists to
Berlin, but low rent is also how their gallerists survive,
as there are few buyers in Berlin. Important galleries
remai n out west i n Charlottenburg, such as on
Mommsenstrae, though a new node of modern art
gal l eri es i s currentl y devel opi ng al ong Potsdamer
Strae. In Mitte, contemporary galleries are peppered
throughout the Scheunenviertel area, particularly along
Auguststrae and Gipsstrae.
Art galleries in Berlin
You dont have to walk far down Unter den Linden from
Brandenburger Tor to find souvenir shops. Scores of
coffee table books document the changing face of Berlin
and its most scarred and wounded moments in history.
The irrepressible cheer of the Ampelmnnchen traffic light
figures make for more pedestrian memories of Berlin.
Other tiny beings that dont take up much luggage space
are the straw and wood figurines of the Erzgebirge that are
sold in many tourist gift shops; most of these ornaments
and nutcrackers are meant for display at Christmas.
Souvenirs in Berlin
Find more embassy listings online
at www.berlin.inyourpocket.com
Brewers Berlin F-3, MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel.
+49 177 388 15 37, www.brewersberlintours.com.
The 6-hour Best of Berlin (10:30, 15/12) and the 3-hour
Express (13:00, tip onl y) tours are great introductions to
the city. Potsdam tours take place on Wed and Sat (09:20,
15/12). The meeting point for all tours is the Bandy Brooks
ice cream shop near Friedrichstrae station; no bookings
are required.
City Segway Tours G-3, Panoramastrae 1a, Mitte,
MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 24 04 79 91, berlin@
citysegwaytours.com, www.citysegwaytours.com. Hop
on a self-balancing Segway scooter and - after a short driving
lesson - zip around Berlin on the four-hour general tours (10:00
and 15:00, 67), or the shorter afternoon tour (15:00, 43).
Drivers license required.
Call Us
+49 177 238 00 02
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Fat Tire Bike Tour s G-3, Panoramastrae 1a
(Fernsehturm), Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49
30 24 04 79 91, www.fattirebiketoursberlin.com. Grab a
bike at the base of the TV Tower and spin through town on the
relaxed 4,5 hour dail y city tour (11:00, from May also 16:00),
the Wall tour (Mon, Thu, Sat at 10:30), the Third Reich tour
(Wed, Fri, Sun at 10:30) and the Raw tour (counter cul ture;
Tue, Fri, Sun at 10:30); these tours cost 24/22 and no
booking is required. Call or email ahead for the Potsdam tour.
Insider Tours G-3, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30
692 31 49, www.insidertour.com. Insiders enthusiastic
guides go a long way to make you feel like an insider on the
dail y 4-hour tours; it starts from AMT Coffee at Hackescher
Markt (10:30 and 15:00, 12/10). Other tours are the Wall,
Third Reich, Sachsenhausen, Potsdam, Jewish Berlin
and a pub crawl.
I sher wood s Nei ghbourhood Tour D- 4/5,
MU Nollendor fplatz, tel. +49 151 25 22 03 42,
brendan@10777tours.com, www.cabaret-berlin.com. In
the 1920s Berlin was a veritable Sodom on the Spree with
85,000 lesbians, open prostitution and an outrageous club
and revue theatre scene. The young British writer Christopher
Isher wood li ved here from 1929 to 1933, weaving his
experiences in Goodbye To Berlin (of Cabaret fame). Expat
Brendan Nash conducts an excellent one-hour tour through
Isherwoods Berlin around Nollendorfplatz, spiced up with
quotes and referenses to notorious 1920s party-goers like
Anita Berber and Marlene Dietrich. Q Tours Sat at 11:00,
and on demand. Book ahead. Tickets 10.
Original Berlin Walks tel. +49 30 301 91 94, www.
berlinwalks.de. The dail y 3,5-hour Discover Berlin tour
starts at the Weihenstephaner restaurant on Hackescher
Markt at 10.30 and 14:00. Check online for themed tours
like Third Reich, Cold War, Queer Berlin, Jewish Berlin
and Potsdam. Q Tickets 12/10.
Berlin on Bike
60
STREET REGISTER
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com
Ackerstrae F/G-2
Adalbertstrae H-4
Admiralstrae G/H-5
Albrechtstrae F-3
Alexanderplatz G-3
Alexanderstrae G-3
Alexanderufer F-2/3
Alexandrinenstrae F-4
Al t-Moabit C-3/E-3
Al te Jakobstrae F-4
Al te Schnhauser Strae G-2
Al tonaer Strae D-3
Am Friedrichshain H-2
Am Karlsbad F-4
Am Kupfergraben F-3
Am Ostbahnhof H-4
Anhal ter Strae F-4
Arndtstrae F-5
Augsburger Strae C/D-4
Auguststrae F/G-2
Axel-Springer-Strae F-4
Barnimstrae H-2/3
Baruther Strae F-5
Bayerischer Platz D-5
Bebelplatz F-3
Behrenstrae F-3
Belforter Strae G/H-2
Bergmannstrae F/G-5
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Mhlendamm G-3
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Oranienburger Strae
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Otto-Braun-Strae G/H-3
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Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz G-2
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Rykestrae H-2
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Schlostrae B-3
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Schnhauser Allee G-1/2
Schnleinstrae H-5
Schumannstrae F-3
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Simon-Dach-Strae I-4
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Spandauer Damm A/B-3
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Sredzkistrae H-2
Stralauer Allee I-4
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Stralauer Strae G-3
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Strae der Pariser Kommune
I-3/4
Strae des-17. Juni C/E-3
Stresemannstrae F-4
Sdstern G-5
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Tiergartenstrae D/E-4
Torstrae F/G-2
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Turmstrae C/D-2
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Urbanstrae G/H-5
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Vostrae F-4
Wadzeckstrae G/H-3
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Wallstrae F/G-4
Warschauer Platz I-4
Warschauer Strae I-3/4
Wassertorplatz F-4
Weinbergsweg G-2
Weinstrae H-2/3
Werderstrae F-3
Wiener Strae H/I-4/5
Wilhelmstrae F-3/4
Winterfeldtplatz D-5
Winterfeldtstrae D/E-5
Wrther Strae G/H-2
Yorckstrae E/F-5
Zimmerstrae F-4
Zinnowitzer Strae F-2
Zionskirchstrae G-2
Zossener Strae F-5
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Turmstr.
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Moabit
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o
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r
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Am Spreebord
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m
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rin
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D
a
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Pa
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ls
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Carnot-
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S
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4
4
K
u
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S
c
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Heisenberg-
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lin
-
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G
o
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o
w
s
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Alt-M
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ortm
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e
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Christ- str.
Neue
Christ-
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S
c
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t
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N
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c
k
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H
e
b
b
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K
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F
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A
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s
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S
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lis
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S
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W
ullenw
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Tile-
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ardenberg-
S
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S
o
lin
g
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S
tr.
A
gricolastr.
s
tr.
H
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S
c
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B
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F
lo
to
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-
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m
u
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s
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f
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ib
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iz
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e
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n
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-
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ib
n
iz
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t
r.
Ernst-
Reuter-
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Strae des 17. Juni
H
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n
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rg
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tr.
Zool
G
Bud
L
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w
is
h
a
m
s
t
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Kurfrstendamm
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Lietzenburger Str.
Olivaer
Platz
Lietz
J
o
a
c
h
im
s
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le
r
S
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B
u
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kirche
Breitscheid-
platz
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S
p
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s
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N

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b
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W
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tr.
S
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S
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B
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Heinrich von
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s
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S
W
in
d
s
c
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id
s
tr.
F
rits
c
h
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s
tr.
F
rits
c
h
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s
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u
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re
z
s
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itz
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e
n
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Pestalozzistr.
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R
ic
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a
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r-S
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W
ilm
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rs
d
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r
S
tr.
H
o
rstweg
Witzleben-
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Schillerstr.
Schiller- str.
Schillerstr.
Goethestr. Goethestr.
K
n
e
s
e
b
e
c
k
s
tr.
K
n
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s
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b
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c
k
s
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W
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S
tr.
Pestalozzistr.
G
ro
lm
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s
tr.
G
ro
lm
a
n
s
tr.
S
c
h
l
te
rs
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S
c
h
l
te
rs
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Savigny-
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F
a
s
a
n
e
n
s
tr.
J
e
b
e
n
s
s
tr.
M
ller-Breslau- Str.
Hertzallee
Hardenberg-
Rnnestr.
W
in
d
s
c
h
e
id
s
tr.
Dam
aschkestr.
J
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c
h
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d
ric
h
-S
tr.
P
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b
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lsb
o
rn
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r S
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s
e
n
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tr.
Gervinusstr.
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S
u
a
re
zs
tr.
Friedbergstr.
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ro
y
s
e
n
s
tr.
N
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to
rs
tr.
C
ic
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s
tr.
R
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tr.
K
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a
s
tr.
E
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n
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a
h
n
-
s
tr.
Mommsenstr.
Mommsenstr.
Niebuhrstr.
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W
ie
la
n
d
s
tr.
G
ie
s
e
b
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c
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ts
tr.
W
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d
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tr.
B
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S

c
h
s
is
c
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S
tr.
S

c
h
s
is
c
h
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S
tr.
Xantener Str.
Dsseldorfer Str.
Dsseldorfer Str.
U
h
la
n
d
s
tr.
U
h
la
n
d
-
U
h
la
n
d
s
tr.
P
fa
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b
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tr.
E
m
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tr.
E
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tr.
W

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m
b
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is
c
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S
tr.
B
a
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c
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S
tr.
Pommersche
Str.
F
a
s
a
n
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n
s
tr.
F
a
s
a
n
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n
s
tr.
F
a
s
a
n
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n
s
tr.
S
chaper- str.
Ludwigkirch-
str.
Pariser
Str.
M
e
ie
ro
tto
str.
A
ugsburger Str.
R
a
n
k
e
-
s
tr.
M
a
rb
u
rg
e
r
S
tr.
Geisberg
Regensb
G
ra
in
a
u
e
r S
tr.
Charlottenbrunner Str r
S
tr.
w
a
-
s
tr.
S
e
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s
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n
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tr.
R
E
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e
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n
s
tr.
C
ic
e
ro
s
tr.
N
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s
to
rs
tr.
B
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le
fe
ld
e
r S
tr.
Mansfelder
Str.
U
h
la
n
d
s
tr.
P
fa
lz
b
u
rg
e
r S
tr.
S
ig
m
a
rin
g
e
r S
tr.
G
ie
s
e
le
rs
tr.
Gnzelstr.
Gnzelstr.
Gnzelstr.
H
o
ls
te
in
is
c
h
e
S
tr.
N
a
s
s
a
u
is
c
h
e
S
tr.
L
a
n
d
h
a
u
s
s
tr.
tr.
M
ansfelder Str.
Fe
ch
n
e
rstr
B
a
m
b
e
rg
e
r S
tr.
A
schaffe
nb
u
rg
e
r S
tr.
P
rin
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g
e
n
te
n
s
tr.
J
e
n
a
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r
S
tr.
H
e
lm
s
te
d
te
r
S
tr. T
ra
u
te
n
austr.
P
ra
g
e
r
S
tr.
M
otzstr.
CHARLOTTENBURG
Max-
Str.
Allee
M
e
in
e
k
e
s
tr.
Eislebener
Str.
Mierendorffplatz
Jungfernheide L
is
e
-M
e
i t n
e
r - S
t r .
Ti
Richard-Wagner-
Platz
Sophie-Charlotte-
Platz
Bismarckstr.
Dt. Oper
Zoologischer Garten
platz
Kurfrstendamm
Uhlandstr.
s
tr.
Savignyplatz
Adenauerplatz
Charlottenburg
U
Wilmersdorfer Str.
Konstanzer Str.
Hohenzollerndamm
Halensee
Fehrbelliner Platz
Hohenzollernplatz
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W
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A
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A
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P
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W
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E
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B
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W
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A
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M
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M
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Mariannen-
platz
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M
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W
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W
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L
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M
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O
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F
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G
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W
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J
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Karl-Marx-Allee
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Schlesisches Tor
Grlitzer Bahnhof
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Klosterstr.
W
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str.
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S
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c
h
w
e
d
te
r S
tr.
O
berberger Str.
K
n
a
a
c
k
s
tr.
Sredzkistr.
K
o
llw
itzs
tr.
H
u
s
e
-
m
a
n
n
-
s
tr.
P
r
e
n
z
la
u
e
r
A
lle
e D
a
n
zig
e
r S
tr.
G
r
e
if
s
w
a
ld
e
r
S
t
r.
E
lla
-
K
a
y
-S
tr.
S
ch

n
h
a
a
r-
E
.-
S
tr.
Storkow
er Str.
Einsteinstr.
S
te
d
in
g
e
r W
e
g
Volkspark
Anton
Saefkow
Ernst-
Thlmann-
Park
PRENZLAUER
BERG
Allee
Str.
KREUZBERG
Dom
Museums-
insel Fernsehturm
Rotes
Rathaus
East Side G
allery
Spr ee
Gleimstr.
S
w
in
e
m

n
d
e
r S
tr.
G
ra
u
n
s
tr.
W
o
llin
e
r S
tr.
S
tr
m
iner Str.
Mauer-
park
Falk-
platz
r
U
S
c
h

n
h
a
u
s
e
r


Danziger Str.
Gleimstr. tr.
A
m
F
a
lk
p
la
tz
Gaudystr.
C
a
n
tia
n
s
tr.
Topsstr.
Eberswalder Str.
Eberswalder Str.
P
a
p
p
e
la
lle
e
G
rellstr.
G
rellstr.
G
re
ife
n
h
a
g
L
y
c
h
e
n
e
r S
tr.
D
u
n
c
k
e
rs
tr.
S
targarder S
tr.
S
e
n
e
fe
ld
e
rs
tr.
Raum
erstr.
Erich-W
einert-Str.
D
ie
s
te
rw
e
g
s
tr.
Frbelstr.
A
hlbecker S
tr.
M
ich
e
la
n
g
e
lo
str.
platz
H
o
s
e
m
a
n
n
s
tr.
G
u
b
itz
s
tr.
G
u
Kselstr.
Schieritzstr.
N
a
u
g
a
rd
e
r S
tr.
G
rtelstr.
M
a
h
le
rs
tr.
n
str.
Str.
H
anns- Eisler-
Thom
a
s- M
a
n
n
-S
tr.
S
to
rkow
er
W
e
g
H
enoch-
Lilli-
Str. H
.-E
is
le
r-S
tr.
S
S
Prenzlauer Allee
Greifswalder Str.
Storko
FRIEDRICHSHAIN
Frankfurte
B
oxhagener Str.
C
o
rin
th
str.
A
n
d
E
ls
e
n
s
tr.
T
re
a
s
tr.
r.
Gounodstr.
A
ltenescher W
eg
Sigridstr.
S
c
h
n
e
e
g
l
c
k
c
h
e
n
s
t
S
yrin
g
e
n
w
e
g

P
E
S
to
rk
o
w
er Str.
H
e
rm
a
n
n
-B
la
nkenstein-S
P
Eldenaer Str.
L
ie
b
ig
s
tr.
K
re
u
tz
ig
e
r
S
tr
W
Kopernikusstr.
Krossen
G

rtn
e
r-
s
tr
Revale
M.-Hoffm
ann-Str.
Europa-
Sport-Palast
O2 World
S
c
h

n
h
a
u
s
e
r
A
l l e
e

T
a
m
a
ra
-D
a
n
z-Str.
M
.-H
a
rn
a
c
k
-S
tr.
ra
b
e
n
N
S
O W
CENTRAL BERLIN
0 500 1000 m
G
G
H
H
I
I
1
2
3
4
5
66
INDEX
Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com


2
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2

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d
i
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a
s

A
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.

a
d
i
d
a
s
,

t
h
e

T
r
e
f
o
i
l

l
o
g
o

a
n
d

t
h
e

3
-
S
t
r
i
p
e
s

m
a
r
k

a
r
e

r
e
g
i
s
t
e
r
e
d

t
r
a
d
e
m
a
r
k
s

o
f

t
h
e

a
d
i
d
a
s

G
r
o
u
p
.

adidas Originals Store, Mnzstr. 13-15, 10178 Berlin
adidas Store, Tauentzienstr. 15, 10789 Berlin
ready berlin?
all originals
Adidas Originals 29
Adidas Performance 39
Adlon 15
Aigner 16
Al Contadino Sotto Le Stelle 20
Alexa Centre 29
Alexander Plaza 15
Alliiertenmuseum 39
Alpenstueck 18
Al t Berliner Biersalon 36
Al te Nationalgalerie 26
Al ternative Berlin Tours 56
Al tes Museum 26
Ankerklause 47
Anna Blume 42
April 34
Arena Badeschiff 52
Astoria 31
Aufsturz 20
August Fengler 42
August II 20
Bag Ground 29
Bar am Ltzowplatz 21
Bar an der Karl-Marx-Allee 21
Barcomi's Deli 49
Bauhaus Archiv 25
Belushi's Bar 21
Berghain 45
Berlin City Tour 56
Berliner Dom 24
Berliner Trdelmarkt 29, 39
Berlinische Galerie 51
Berlin Locals 57
Berlin on Bike 57
Berlin Plaza 31
Berlin Story 29
Berlin Underworlds 57
Best Western President 31
B-flat 23
Bill y Wilder's 21
Bleibtreu 31
Bode-Museum 26
Books in Berlin 39
Borchardt 16
Bowie Walk 57
Brandenburger Tor 23
Brecht-Haus Kellerrestaurant
16
Brewer's Berlin 58
Brhan Museum 39
Bubble.kid 29
Budapester Schuhe 39
Caf am Neuen See 35
Caf im Literaturhaus 36
Caf Rix 49
Cijada 43
City Circle Buses 56
City Segway Tours 58
Clrchens Ballhaus 22
C/O Berlin 25
Cocolo 20
Comme des Garons 29
Computerspielemuseum 45
Connection 36
Crack Bellmer 45
Cum Laude 20
Cup Cake 44
Curry 36 47
Dal - The Exhibition at
Potsdamer Platz 25
DDR Museum 25
Deutsche Guggenheim 26
Deutsches Historisches
Museum 26
Diekmann 35
Die Quadriga 33
Die Schule 41
DomCurry 16
Duke 35
Dussmann 29
East Berlin Suppl y Store 29
Ellington Hotel 31
Eschschloraque Rmschrmp
21
Facil 16
Fat Tire Bike Tours 58
Fernsehturm 28
First Floor 33
Fischers Fritz 17
Fleischlust 41
Flohmarkt am Boxhagener
Platz 45
Flohmarkt am Mauerpark 43
Francucci's 35
Freischwimmer 50
Frida Kahlo 42
Fhrerbunker 24
Funkturm-Restaurant 33
Gaffel Haus 17
Galeries Lafayette 29
Ganymed 19
Geburtstagsklub 42
Gedchtniskirche 38
Gedenksttte Berliner Mauer 26
Gemldegalerie 26
Gendarmenmarkt 23
Georgbru 17
Golgatha 50
Gorgonzola Club 48
Grlitzer Park 52
Grand Hyatt 15
Gropius 19
Gugelhof 41
Habermeyer 45
Hafen 36
Hamburger Bahnhof 26
Harry's New York Bar 21
Hasir 20
Haus am Checkpoint Charlie 26
Hecker's 32
Hefner 36
Hi-Fl yer Balloon 29
Hil ton 15
Historiale 27
Honigmond & Garden Hotels 15
Hoppetosse 50
Htel Concorde Berlin 31
Hotel de Rome 15
HSH Hotel Albergo 32
HumboldtBox 27
Hut up! 29
Insider Tours 58
InterContinental 15
Irish Harp 37
Irish Harp Pub 13
Irish Pub 37
Isherwood's Neighbourhood
Tour 58
Jolesch 47
Joseph Roth Diele 21
Jdisches Museum Berlin 51
Kfer Dachgarten 19
Kaffee Burger 22
Kaiserstein 48
Kasbah 20
Kaufhaus des Westens 39
Kempinski Bristol 31
Kennedy Museum 27
Keyser Soze 21
Kilkenny Irish Pub 13, 23
Kimchi Princess 47
Knese 34
Konnopke's Imbi 41
Kuchenkaiser 49
Ku'Damm 101 32
Kul turbrauerei 43
Kumpelnest 3000 21
Kunst und Nostalgiemarkt 29
Leysieffer 36
Liquidrom 52
Locanda 35
Lutter & Wegner 17
Luxor Club 36
Manngo 16
Margaux 18
Mrkisches Museum 27
Marooush 38
Marriott 15
Martin-Gropius-Bau 51
Matrix 45
Mauerpark 43
Maximilians 18
Mein Haus am See 22
Memorial to the Murdered Jews
of Europe 24
Mercure Airport Hotel Berlin
Tegel 32
Milchbar 50
Mirchi 19
Monsieur Vuong 16
Motel One 47
Museum fr Asiatische Kunst
39
Museum fr Film und
Fernsehen 27
Museum fr Naturkunde 27
Museumswohnung WBS 70 45
Mutter Hoppe 18
Neue Nationalgalerie 27
Neues Museum 26
Neue Synagoge 23
Neue Wache 25
Nikolaiviertel 24
Nocti Vagus 41
Nola's am Weinberg 19
Ol ympic Stadium 38
Onitsuka Tiger 29
Onitsuka Tiger Store Berlin 29
Oranium 19
Original Berlin Walks 58
Oscar Wilde 23
Osteria N1 48
Ottenthal 33
Pagode 47
Palace 31
Panorama Caf 19
Panoramapunkt 28
Paris-Moskau 18
Pergamon Museum 26
Pizzeria i Due Forni 41
Potsdamer Platz 24
Precise Myer's 40
Prenzlauer Berg Tourist
Information Centre 43
Prinzknecht 36
QIU 22
Quasimodo 37
Que Pasa 49
Reederei BWSG 55
Reederei Riedel 55
Reederei Winkler 55
Reichstag 24
Reingold 22
Reinhardt's 19
Renger-Patzsch 34
Restauration 1900 41
Riehmers 47
Riehmers Hofgarten 47
Ritz-Carl ton 15
Roter Salon 22
Sachiko Sushi 35
Sage Club 22
Sankt Oberholz 20
Santiago 42
Sarod's 47
Savoy Berlin 31
Schall und Rauch 42
Schloss Charlottenburg 38
Schneeweiss 45
Schnitzelei 33
Schwarzwaldstuben 18
Seehof 31
Shakespeare & Sons 43
Silberfisch 22
Soda Club 42
Sofitel Berlin Gendarmenmarkt
15
Sophieneck 20
Soto 29
Sphere 19
Stndige Vertretung 18
Starbucks 20
Stasi Exhibition 27
Stasi Museum 45
Stern und Kreisschiffahrt 55
Strandbad Mitte 22
Suksan 33
Sushi Circle 20
Sushi Imbiss am Wasserturm
42
Swisstel Berlin 31
Syl ter Hof 32
Tausche Taschen 43, 45
Tempelhofer Freiheit 52
Teufelsberg 38
The Regent Berlin 15
Tiergarten 39
Tom's Bar 36
Topographie des Terrors 27
Trabi Safari 56
Trnenpalast 28
Traube 19
Union Jack 37
Van Long 16
VAU 18
Veronica Pohle 39
Vicolo Bergmann 48
Viktoriapark 52
Volkspark Friedrichshain 45
VOX 18
Week-End Club 22
Weihenstephaner 18
Weinstein 42
Wel trestaurant Markthalle 49
Westin Grand 15
Wohnzimmer 42
Wrgeengel 50
Zander 41
Zillemarkt 34
Zille-Stube 18
Zimmermeister Brunzel's
Mietshaus 43
Zoo Berlin & Aquarium 39
Zum Nussbaum 19
Zur Letzten Instanz 19
Zwlf Apostel 35
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