KASL WESTON COUNTY EXTENSION REPORT BILL TAYLOR 7/10/12

WATERING TREES

You are NOT watering your trees enough! Now that I have your attention, once again, I am going to get on my soap box! Look out on the prairie and see the sage brush and grass? The lack of trees is primarily a function of lack of moisture. That is what is natural here and most of us are trying to maintain an unnatural environment in our yards.

Over and over again I get calls from homeowners who wonder why their trees are brown, diseased, attacked by insects, etc. when the major root cause is drought stress and lack of water. Trees are watered and fed by shallow roots in the first 8-12 inches of the soil. Guess what else is present in that same zone in most lawns and more competitive than the tree for moisture. GRASS!! I regularly see trees in a lawn and the only water they get is from a sprinkler system that runs 20 minutes a day, which only wets the top inch of the sod. Trees need major water beyond what you give your lawn and garden and they need it on a regular basis.

As a general rule, you should soak the root zone (at least to the farthest reaches of the branches, the dripline) to a depth of 1-2 feet at least once a month for most trees. Of course, water requirements of trees vary by species and the underlying soil, so you will need to experiment some to get the right amount. Also be aware that, as trees grow, they continue to

need more water to support the increased size. This is why many trees stop growing at a certain size they have reached their water limit. Drip systems increase the danger that you will think your new tree is still getting enough water ten or fifteen years from now, when it actually will be going into drought stress because the drip system cant keep up.

Trees react slowly, so when you see signs of stress, disease, or insects your trees may have started to run short of water several years ago. By the time the symptoms are acute, it may be too late to remedy the situation. Trees can often repel disease and insects until they become overly stressed then suddenly the pathogens move in.

Another problem with urban trees is root zone coverage and compaction. People often plant trees too close to foundations, driveways, sidewalks, etc. and then cant understand why the tree doesnt do well, not realizing that it should have 30 feet of root space on all four sides (for a large tree) to absorb water and nutrients, and it only has ten on one side and five on the other.

Here are some watering tips: Tree roots are not like carrots. Tree root systems can spread 2 - 3 times wider than the height of the tree. Most of the tree's absorbing roots are in the top twelve inches of the soil. Water should be applied within the dripline.

Water deeply and slowly. Apply water so it moistens the critical root zone to a depth of twelve inches. Methods for watering include an open hose, a deep root fork or needle, soaker hose or soft spray wand. Apply water to many locations under the dripline.

When restrictions prohibit turf watering, water small trees 4 times per month, medium trees 3 times per month, and large trees 2 times per month.

Utilize the following "rule of thumb" for watering the appropriate classification of tree: small trees (1"-3" diameter) 10 gallons/inch, medium trees (4"-8" diameter) 10 gallons/inch, large trees (10"+ diameter) 15 gallons/inch. Use a ruler to measure your tree's diameter.

Mulch is critical to conserve soil moisture. Put down ground cloth and apply organic mulch within the dripline, at a depth of 2-3 inches. It's best to eliminate turf prior to adding mulch. Leave a six-inch space between the mulch and trunk of trees. Mulch materials may include wood chips, bark, leaves and evergreen needles. Be sure to water in such a manner that the moisture soaks 12 inches below the mulch dont just wet the surface.

Bill Taylor Weston County Extension Office The University of Wyoming is an equal opportunity/affirmative action institution.