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Welcome to Prague - cultural beacon, Bohemian jewel, and party capital of Eastern Europe! Whether you're seeking a relaxed break amongst her beautiful architecture or a wild weekend amongst her beautiful inhabitants you've come to the right place: Prague Life tells you where to go, what to do, and how to do it right. Whatever it is you're searching for, be it romantic restaurants, homely hotels, action-packed activities or boisterous bars and clubs, we've got plenty of ideas to get you started. What's more we'll also give you plenty of useful info about practical stuff like getting to and from the airport, making your way around town, and some useful travellers' tips. So just don't say that we don't spoil you! We're always working hard to improve our guide, and don't forget that we are always ready to help out with advice and suggestions for your stay - so do take advantage of our local knowledge when it comes to choosing your hotel or planning out the day's activities. We've been to all the places we recommend, so you'll get a first-hand idea of what it's like. We try to keep it light-hearted but informative. Prague is a vibrant city with great cultural and historical dignity, which provides a glorious backdrop to all the fun!
Copyright Lifeboat Ltd.
behind the Prague Central Station, where you can sit on a hill, watch people playing with their dogs, and take a breather above Prague Want to explore further? The Prague Life team has written more detailed guides to each district of Prague (Old Town, Jewish Quarter, New Town, Hradcany, Lesser Town), as well as plenty of information about sights in our culture directory, so get out there and explore!
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Travelling to Prague
By air As an incredibly popular travel destination, Prague is very well connected by all the major, as well as budget airlines. Flights to Prague are best booked well in advance, especially during the high season, when certain flights, particularly at weekends, can get quite expensive if booked at the last minute. Ruzyne is the International Airport for Prague and is situated about 20km north from the city. The journey between the two should take roughly 30 minutes to an hour, depending on the mode of transport you've chosen. City and transport maps are available at the airport's Tourist Information Centre. The quickest way of making the journey is by taxi, but be warned: Prague's taxis have a justified reputation for being downright dodgy in their business practices when dealing with foreigners. They will never miss an opportunity to fleece an unsuspecting tourist, but if you follow the golden rules - avoid taxis without illuminated signs, agree a price before starting your journey, and ensure the meter is switched on - you will be fine. A taxi ride from the airport to the city centre should cost about 700Kc. A slower but cheaper option is to catch one of the "Cedaz" buses that leave about every half an hour between 5:30 a.m. and 9:30 p.m. They go to Namesti Republiky and a ticket costs about 90Kc. The cheapest option of all is to catch the 119 bus from the airport terminal to Dejvicka subway station, from where you can speed into the city centre (using line A), happy in the knowledge that to do so cost a mere 75Kc. By train If you are on an inter-rail trip, or just prefer the romance of rail, then you will be pleased to know that Prague is extremely well served by international railway networks. There are 2 main railway stations: Hlavni Nadrazi (Prague central station) and Praha Holesovice (Holesovice station). The busiest trains seem to come from Berlin (5.5 hours away) Vienna (4.5 hours) and Budapest (6.5 hours). You can pretty much go by train to anywhere in Europe from Prague; its central location making it the perfect launching pad for trips to Krakow, Warsaw, or Sofia - to name but a few. As with any large station in any European city, keep your wits about you and be aware of your surroundings, as pick-pockets and petty thieves occasionally target tourists here. By bus Again, Prague's central location means that there is no shortage of bus services to the city from all over Europe. The
main bus station is called Florenc and is on subway lines B and C. If you are on a tight budget then we'd recommend the bus as the views are spectacular whichever direction you approach the city (and country) from. Only if journey time is of no importance though, as a journey from London (for example) takes 23 hours! By car You must be brave to even be considering this! The roads are fairly ropey in the Czech Republic (though improving greatly all the time), but on the bright side there's hardly ever traffic jams on the motorways. The same can't be said for traffic in Prague itself however, as it is pretty much stand-still from Monday to Friday, and you can increase that to include the weekends during peak visiting season. Our advice? Don't drive in Prague unless you can't really avoid it, but consider it a great way to see attractions outside the city on your own terms.
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U Jednoho Pokoje
Utterly unique You haven't have been anywhere like this before: the address and contact details (save for email) are not available anywhere - you must book by email at least 24 hours in advance, giving your name, your mobile number, the evening you would like to reserve, the number of people visiting plus any meal and wine preferences. If this seems like a hassle, trust us: it's worth it. The (French) owner does everything himself, the food is incredible and you dine amongst art exhibitions that change every month or so. It's pricier than most - average 250CZK - but if you've got the cash, and you leave Prague without coming here, then you should take a long hard look at yourself! near Pavlova Square tel: +42 (221) 714 444 www.http://www.ujednohopokoje. cz
Without a shadow of a doubt, this is our favourite place for a curry in Prague. It's a bit further out but worth the journey because the food is home-cooked, the menu range good (don't like curry? Have a pizza here instead!), and the service friendly - for Prague. It's not the most swanky of places, but what does that matter when the food is of such high quality? Na Dedince 12 tel: +42 (721) 809 084 www.http://www.prague-life.com
Klub Architektu
Real Czech hidden treasure Betlemske Namesti 5a tel: +420 224401214 www.http://www.prague-life.com
Cafe Slavia
Dine with Prague's greatest (ghosts) Smetanovo nabrezi 1012/2 tel: +420 224218493 www.http://www.cafeslavia.cz
Banditos
Arriba! Time was that it was damn near impossible to find decent Mexican food anywhere East of the Atlantic Ocean, but that's all changed these days as places like Banditos pop up in every city all over Europe. We're not complaining we love Mexican food and that which is served at Banditos is very good indeed just don't expect anything other than your standard fodder. Don't expect a smile from your waiter/waitress either, as from our experience it's not going to happen this lifetime! U Melounova 2 tel: +420 224941096 www.http://www.banditosrestaura nt.cz
Cafe No. 1
Cafe drowning in pop modernity 28. rijna 9 tel: +420 224231036 www.http://www.cafeno1.cz
Svata Klara
A deep experience This gem of a restaurant has been around since 1679 and its gimmick is that the whole thing is set underground in a natural cave. Not that it needs a gimmick though, as the food is good enough for it to operate without one: the menu is very large and varied, with a particularly broad range of game dishes. All the splendour is reflected in the prices however, making this a destination that may not be in the budget of most visitors. U Trojskeho Zamku 35 tel: +42 (233) 540 173 www.http://www.svataklara.cz
U Svateho Vaclava
The patron saint of the Internets Karmelitska 24 tel: +420 257532942 www.http://www.u-svateho-vaclav a.com
Albio
Sick of meat? Labelling Albio as simply "vegetarian" doesn't do it justice. They've gone the whole hog (but not a real one, don't panic!): everything is organic (including the wine), and they have their own organic vegetable store on the premises. The food isn't the only thing that's friendly - the staff are too - and indeed the whole place has a chilled out, informal feel to it that makes it ideal for families, even those with very young children as there is a playpen in the middle of the place. No screaming kids when we went, which is why, even as seasoned meat freaks, we love Albio! U Truhlarska 18-20 tel: +42 (222) 325 414 www.http://www.prague-life.com
Kure v Hodinkach
Hearty yet cool Step inside Kure v hodinkach (The Chicken in the Watch) and you'll find yourself in perhaps the ultimate manifestation of modern Prague: very cool and friendly, but a sense of history retained with more than a nod to tradition. The food is hearty fare and mostly of the traditional grill variety, so expect lots of meat, particularly pork, but made with a modern twist. The clincher in our opinion is the fact that you can get no less than six domestic beers on tap: a rarity in this brewery monopolised city. U Seifertova 26 tel: +42 (222) 734 212 www.http://www.kurevhodinkach. com
Rybi trh
Fish on the rocks U Tunsky dvur 5 tel: +42 (224) 895 447 www.http://www.rybitrh.cz
La Perle de Prague
Dine on top of the Dancing House Rasinovo nabrezi 80, 7th floor
Rana
Subcontinental style
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Every single town and city in the world contains at least one Irish pub, and there's usually little to distinguish them from each other. Not this place though, it's a safe bet that this is the only Cuban/Irish pub anywhere in the world. It's a great mix: genuine Irish hospitality (and Guinness!) with Cuban flair and warmth, and that's partly why expats moving to Prague tend to make this their local. The three TVs and huge screen show all the sports that matter and there's even a succesful darts league hosted here (the standard of which is intimidatingly high). Highly recommended. U Liliova 14 tel: +42 (222) 221 178 www.http://www.oches.com
Lavka
Bar? Club? Theatre? Venue? Go-go dancer headquarters? Yes! Novotneho Lavka 1 tel: +420 2 21082299 www.http://www.lavka.cz
Karlovy Lazne
Four club-tastic! Smetanovo nnbrezi 198 tel: +420 222220502 www.http://www.karlovylazne.cz
Solid Uncertainty
Definitely maybe visit Solid Uncertainty Pstrossova 21 tel: +420 605000500 www.http://www.solidninejistota.c z
Duplex
Wild and wicked Mick Jagger celebrated his 60th birthday here, but you don't have to be a wrinkly millionaire lothario to have a great time in this vast club. Quite the opposite in fact; this is unmistakably a place for beautiful young people who come to check each other out whilst throwing shapes to house and techno. The roof terrace affords fantastic views of the city, upon which you can enjoy a coffee or bite to eat during the day before the ultra-glamorous set descend at night! Vaclavske Namesti 21 tel: +42 (221) 714 444 www.http://www.duplex.cz
Pivovarsky dum
Feeling adventurous? You should definitely pop in here if you like trying new things because they have more flavoured beers than you could ever imagine: we're talking coffee, champagne, cherry - and that's just the "c"'s! Everything is brewed on the premises, including normal beer if you're wary of the wacky ones. There's a good range of food available and we would definitely recommend the roast pork joint, but only if you're famished because it is a lot to take on at once! Lipova 15 tel: +42 (296) 216 666 www.http://www.gastroinfo.cz/piv odum/
Palace Akropolis
Independent live music venue Kubelikova 27 tel: +420 296330911 www.http://www.palacakropolis.cz
M1 Secret Lounge
Hipster central in Prague The first thing you might notice walking up to M1 is the sign outside which says "No Stag Parties." Ahh, sweet relief! Finally, a place one can lounge and chat with friends without the threat of a group of rowdy islanders drooling down your shirt. Though the drinks and the ambiance are a little more upscale than in more student-oriented bars, it's well worth it just for the knowledge that everyone around is as hip as you and the atmosphere remains civilized. Plus, for fans of great music, on Wednesdays there's an Indie/Britpop/etc. night, so this is probably the only place you'll get to sip martinis while listening to Blur and The Arctic Monkeys. Masna 1 tel: +420 227195235 www.http://www.prague-life.com
Bugsy's Bar
What's up doc? Bugsy's relies on their expert bartenders for success and that has certainly proved succesful, as it was recently voted in the world's top 20 bars by Newsweek. This is the kind of place where ordering a simple vodka & coke can take an age, depending on how flamboyant the bartender feels i.e. how many times he'll chuck the bottle in the air, perform a triple twist and catch the whole thing behind his back. It's certainly entertaining, as proven by the masses who flock here most nights, but check the price before you order your cocktail, lest you mistakenly order the world's most expensive cocktail: The Manhattan. U Parizska 10 tel: +42 (224) 810 287 www.http://www.bugsysbar.com
Club Nebe
Dance club for cool kids Kremencova 10 tel: +420 224930343 www.http://www.prague-life.com
O'Che's
Irish with a twist
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should certainly appreciate it in the refined atmosphere and beautiful surroundings of the Prague State Opera, which is regarded by Czechs as something of a national monument. The likes of Verdi, Puccini, and Bizet feature regularly but don't expect to gain entrance in your shorts and t-shirt: formal dress is mandatory. Tickets are a bit on the steep side and you can purchase either at the building itself (which gives a good excuse to sample the interior one extra time) or online via their website. U Legerova 75 tel: +42 (296) 117 111 www.http://www.opera.cz
National Museum
Prague's oldest and largest museum Vaclavske namesti 68 tel: +420 224497111 www.http://www.nm.cz
Museum of Communism
Communism can be fun(ny)! Na prikope 10 tel: +42 224212966 www.http://www.muzeumkomunis mu.cz
Marionette Museum
Like a puppet on a string Puppets are very popular in Prague and indeed the city is the unofficial puppet capital of the world, due to the long tradition of puppetry here. It therefore stands to reason that the puppet museum here should be one of the best around and by all accounts it indeed is. We have to admit that this is the only place on the site we haven't actually been to: we're terrified of the wee buggers! If you don't share our irrational fear then there's plenty here to keep you entertained, not least actual puppet shows in the special theatre on the premises. U Karlova 12 tel: +42 (222) 220 928 www.http://www.puppetart.com
Prague Walks
Walk this way Like most central European cities, Prague favours the discoverer: that special kind of person who likes to poke their nose into the places other tourists simply miss. Regardless of whether you're part of the former or latter group, your stay in Prague will benefit from a trip with praguewalks.com. Their knowledge of the city is second to none and their are guides friendly and professional. The range of walks offered is excellent and range from Grand Walk De Lux to a spooky Ghost Tour; our personal favourite however is the Prague Venice walk (pictured above). All in all a great experience and highly recommended. U Jakubska 4 tel: +42 (222) 322 309 www.http://www.praguewalks.co m
Municipal House
Savage beasts apply here Opened in 1912, the Municipal House is very grand and very beautiful. The music tends to be classical fare and if you are lucky enough to be in town when a Smetana (another much-loved Czech composer) concert is scheduled here then you should regard it as a must-see - or rather a must-hear; particularly when you consider that the main hall is named after the great man himself. The interior is breathtakingly ornate and, best of all, tickets are cheap: to book, pop along to the ticket office anytime before the concert is advertised as starting. Namesti Republiky 5 tel: +42 (222) 002 101 www.http://www.obecnidum.cz
Kafka Museum
The city of K. Cihelna 2b
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Galerie Pallas
Art attack U Talinska 1515 tel: +42 (221) 714 444 www.http://www.gallery-pallas.co m
Miss Sophie's
In with the new U Melounova 3 tel: +42 (221) 714 444 www.http://www.miss-sophies.co m
Anagram
Skobo Tyn 4 tel: +42 224 895 737 www.http://www.anagram.cz
The Boathouse
EXCLUSIVE
Mlyn Karlstejn
The most romantic hotel (almost) in Prague Karlstejn 329 tel: +420 311744411 www.http://www.hotelbelvedere.c z
Messing about on the river U Lodnicka 1 tel: +42 (241) 7700512 www.http://www.aa.cz/boathouse /
Bila Labut
Blast from the past U Na Porici 23 tel: +42 (224) 811 364 www.http://www.bilalabut.cz
Sir Toby's
Arise Sir Toby U Delnicka 24 tel: +42 (283) 870635 www.http://www.sirtobys.com
Baker Street
Stick that in your pipe Celetna 38 tel: +42 (271) 961 904 www.http://www.baker-street.cz
UPMARKET
Maximilian
Maximum cool U Hastalska 14 tel: +42 (225) 303 118 www.http://www.maximilianhotel. com
Old Prague
Central comfort U Benediktska 2/685 tel: +42 (221) 714 444 www.http://www.oldpraguehostel. com
Naoko
Form over function U Revolucni 24 tel: +42 (222) 312 567 www.http://www.naoko.cz
APARTMENT
Apartments Elysee
Live in an apartment right on Wenceslas Square Vaclavske nam. 43 tel: +420 221455111 www.http://www.hotelbelvedere.c z
Hotel U Prince
Style on the square Staromestske namesti 29 tel: +42 (224) 213 807 www.http://www.hoteluprince.cz
Palace Gardens
Plants and panoramas Castle Approach tel: +42 (221) 714 444 www.http://www.prague-life.com
MID-RANGE
Belvedere
Quality hotel close to the Prague Castle Milady Horakove 19 tel: +420 220106111 www.http://www.hotelbelvedere.c z
Prague Zoo
Pick up a penguin U Trojskho zmku 3/120 tel: +42 (296) 112 111 www.http://www.zoo-praha.cz
Dante Alighieri
Dis this hotel is not Salmovska 14 tel: +420 224900633 www.http://www.hoteldante.cz
HOSTELS
St Christopher's Hostel
eco-friendly option in the middle of Prague Odborů 278/4
Velka Chuchle
Thrill of the chase
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Sting
Congress Centre, 5 Kvetna 1640/65 Celebrated singer and songwriter Sting will be paying Prague a visit this February, for a performance at the Congress Centre. Before his solo career took off, Sting spent the late 70s and early 80s as the bassist and lead singer for British rock band The Police. These days Sting has focused on a lighter sound, mixing folk and classical music with his pop compositions.
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