UNIVERSITY OF RAJSHAHI

PABNA TEXTILE ENGINEERING COLLEGE

SALGARIA , PABNA
B.Sc. IN TEXTILE ENGINEERING, EXAM 2010
PROJECT PROFILE ON

Spirality and Shrinkage Problems In Knitting Industry And Means to Minimize It

SUPERVISING TEACHER

A.K.M.FARIDUL AZED
CI PABNATEXTILE ENGINEERING COLLEGE SALGARIA , PABNA

PREPARED BY MD. ANARUL ISLAM

ROLL NO. : 070017
REG. NO. : 4486

SESSION:2006-2007

Acknowledgement
At first I want to express that I am pleased to Almighty Allah for giving me a chance to study on Textile Sector and completing this industrial attachment successfully. Then there should be an issue of People's Republic of Bangladesh providing me a chance to study with a government host. Surely I am happy enough to be a student of Pabna Textile Engineering College under educational curriculum of Rajshahi University where they made a rule to have completion of project work that is why I came to M.M. Knitwear Ltd. Ambag Road, Konabari, Nilnagar, Gazipuir.

M.M. Knitwear Ltd. Ambag Road, Konabari, Nilnagar, Gazipuir with it's all staff with helpful mind got a good place on my heart. Special thanks to Engineer Md. Nurul Islam (G.M Dyeing-M.M. Knitwear Ltd.) connecting me with M.M. Knitwear Ltd. and Engineer Md. Abdul Rashid (A.G.M. Knitting -M.M. Knitwear Ltd.) supervising me on the floor. Surely I got good response from machine operators provided me best according to their ability. I remember my good time in Dyeing, Finishing and Laboratory section. I thank to those other than Knitting , dyeing and finishing department helping me as and when required. I can not stop myself without expressing a satisfactory mind blowing behavior of Abdur Rashid sir (A.G.M Knitting-M.M. Knitwear Ltd.).

All of my teachers supported me well in my campus for this industrial attachment and with responsibility A.K.M FARIDUL AZED of knitting department helped us best. Surely I am thankful to my Principle for a nice co-ordination. Finally thanks to all of my well wishers directly or indirectly related to this industrial attachment.

TITLE OF THE PROJECT

Spirility and shrinkage problems in knitting industry and means to miminimige it .

ABASTRACT
Spirality is a common problem in weft knitted fabric. It is the de-twisting tendency of yarn in the fabric. It appears in mostly in single jersey fabrics but in double jersey fabrics this level in about zero. The causes of formation of spirality in twistness in the yarn and increase it by using more number of needles and multifeeders machine so on. It can reduce in different ways but not remove from the fabrics.

So at first we collected some defected fabric samples from the knitting section, flat knitting section and wet processing section to commence our project work.then we targeted to find out the real cause of spirility and shrinkage in the industrial arena these became possible during our industrial attachments program.

During our industrial attachment program we managed to see and collect different fabric sampies and analyze them very effectively to find out and track to the source of those problems and how to solve those problems.

We have tried out bet to give our complete effort on the spirility and shrinkage which was caused by fabric manufacturing processes andwet processing processes.

TABLE OF CONTENS

CHAPTER

CONTENTS

PAGE NO.

CHAPTER-I

INTRODUCTION

6-10

CHAPTER-II

RAW MATERIALS

11-13

CHAPTER-III

MERKETING

14-16

CHAPTER-IV

IMPORTANCE OF THE SURVEY

17-18

CHAPTER-V

SPIRALITY & SHRINKAGE

19-21

CHAPTER-VI

CAUSES OF SHRINKAGE & SPIRALITY

22-25

CHAPTER-VII

METHOD TO MINIMISE THE SHRINKAGE & SPIRALITY

26-27

CHAPTER-VIII

PROBLEM ASSOCIATED WITH SHRINKAGE & SPIRALITY

28-29

CHAPTER-IX

CONTROL PARAMETER FOR SPIRALITY

30-32

CHAPTER-X

CONCLUTION

33-34

>> CHAPTER -1 << INTRODUCTION

Introduction: Evolution of Knitting Industries In Bangladesh:

Bangladesh had a historical reputation in production of textile products in addition to famous Dhaka muslin. Fabrics from Bengal were found in ancient Egyptian tombs, and were traded with the Roman and Chinese empires in the medieval age. In ancient Bengal a great deal of expertise existed with regards to weaving of textile products as well as great reverence towards its trade. In rural communities both men and women were apprenticed in weaving. These skills and disciplines in sewing and weaving are passed down through generations and are quickly transferred to production lines in modern knitwear factories. In the early 1980s, there were small-scale independent investments in the readymade garments (RMG) sector. At that time, it was not considered viable and received very little government attention. Within a decade, the RMG industry in Bangladesh had flourished and by the early 1990s it had emerged as a major employer. Under the dynamic leadership of the private sector together with policy support from the government, the export oriented RMG industry has shown a spectacular growth during the last two and a half decades. The textile sector initially could not keep pace with the requirement of yarn and fabrics particularly by the woven RMG sector as the textile and clothing industry was controlled by a fairly small community of local entrepreneurs. However, the sector grew with vengeance and the country currently exports over US$11 billion in textiles and garments, with a projected target of US$24 billion dollars by 2020. Three independent associations are responsible for the textile sector: the Bangladesh Textile Manufacturers Association (BTMA), which represents spinners, woven fabric manufacturers and dyeing units; the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), which represents the RMG sector, primarily the cutting and sewing units; and the Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA), which represents the knitwear fabric manufacturers, the fabric dyeing units and the knit garment cutting and sewing units. These three associations work either in collaboration, or independently from each other, subject to the agenda they may be forwarding. However, it should be borne in mind that the bulk of yarn manufactured by BTMA members is consumed by members of the BKMEA, which at times leave the two associations at loggerhead opposing sides of an industry issue. The three main government departments that work for apparel sector are the Ministry of Textile and Jute, the Ministry of Finance and the Ministry of Commerce. Knitwear firms in Bangladesh are mainly located in Narayanganj district. Besides, a

few firms are also located in Chittagong, Dhaka, and Gazipur districts. The knitwear industry in Narayanganj emerged at the early stage of the 19th century. Initially clothes were knitted from thread processed by wooden spindle wheels. Later handlooms were brought in from India. This transformed the local cloth industry into a specialized sector of hosiery items. The hosiery sector expanded and accelerated in the 1980s and 1990s into knitting industry when the expansion of RMG industry created demand for fabrics. The industry expanded both vertically and horizontally to meet growing demand for fabrics within a few years. Besides, production of sweaters and socks, the major output of the knitwear industry involves two processes; namely, knitting of fabric and making of knitwear using the fabric thus knitted. The present case study attempts to explore the following issues by focusing on a selective number of knitwear firms in Narayanganj. How has the knitwear industry evolved?

How has it sustained the successful performance? What are the sources of the industrys
competitive strength? How are the structures of the constituting firms placed to productivity differentials within the dynamic performance of the industry? Are all firms growing at the same pace or the composition is changing over time with some firms falling and some going ahead? What are the proximate factors that are causing the differential changes? After this Introduction, section 2 highlights some features along the path of development of the knitwear sector in Bangladesh. Section three sheds light on the momentum of the exports mainly to the EU and the US markets. Section four gives an idea of the production capacity and actual production of the sector. Section five attempts a rather qualitative presentation of the internal dynamics of small, medium and large firms based on a purposively selected sample. Section six sketches the rise and fall of firms within the sector. Finally, section seven makes a few concluding remarks.

Evolution of Knitwear Exports

The RMG business was initiated with the export of knitwear consignment in 1973. Eventually the RMG sector accelerated exports dominated by woven garments. The knitwear sectors significant contribution in countrys export share was 1.1% in FY 82. Since then it gradually increased its share in exports. While the contribution of woven garments to the 4 export basket was 42.8% in FY 91, the knitwear sectors contribution rose to 7.6%. Table 1 presents export performance and the extent of retention rate due to high contents of domestic inputs. In FY 04, knitwear sector for the first time exceeded woven sector and became the leader with an exported quantity of 91.6 million dozens. The sector continues to be the leader in terms of quantity exported with an increasing gap with the woven garments over time. Export quantity of knitwear items increased to 241.59 million dozens. This is roughly equal to 163.7% growth between FY 04 and FY 08. At present knitwear is the largest export earning sector of Bangladesh contributing 41.8% to national export earnings at the end of FY 09 (July-April).

Total Knitwear Exports and Net Retention in Bangladesh:

Exports (US $ million) Year Total RMG Knitwear

Share of

Net Retention (US $ million)

Share of

Knitwear (%)

Net Retention (%) 40 42.4 44.0 47.2 51.2 54.8 56.0

1994-95 1995-96 1996-97 1997-98 1998-99 1999-00 2000-01

1850.3 2006.6 2316.9 2775.4 2700.0 3125.4 3755.6

393.3 598.3 763.3 940.3 1035.4 1269.8 1496.2

21.3 29.8 33.0 33.9 38.4 40.6 39.8

157.3 253.7 335.9 443.8 530.1 695.9 837.9

2001-02 2002-03 2003-04 2004-05 2005-06 2006-07 2007-08

3355.4 3601.4 4443.3 5429.7 6041.9 7517.2 8322.2

1459.2 1653.8 2148.0 2819.5 3817.0 4553.6 5532.5

43.5 45.9 48.3 51.9 63.2 60.6 66.5

826.9 965.8 1271.6 1691.7 2290.2 2732.2 3319.5

56.7 58.4 59.2 60.0 60.0 60.0 60.0

Source: Bangladesh Bank and BKMEA Website

Bangladeshi RMG products are mainly destined to the US and the EU markets. With their earnest efforts from late 1980s the RMG exporters were able to export US$ 393.26 million in FY 95. Of this amount, the shares of the EU and the USA were US$ 274 million and US$ 98 million respectively. During FY 97, Bangladesh was the 7th and the 5th largest apparel exporter to the US and EU markets respectively. The cumulative average growth rate of the sector is about 20%. In recent years the EU market was the main export market for 5 Bangladeshi knitwear constituting 76% (US$ 4.2 billion) of total knitwear export followed by the USA (14.59%, i.e. US$ 807 million) in the year FY 08. The impressive growth of the knitwear in the EU market was partly due the market access opportunities provided under the Generalized Systems of Preference (GSP) facility. Further, the two-stage transformation requirement of the rules of origin (ROO) introduced in 1999 accelerated market penetration and deepened it in the EU. Since Bangladeshs knitwear production has very high domestic content of inputs and value added (around 80%) it is estimated that 95% of knitwear exports to the EU enter free of duty under the EBA initiative, thereby contributing to very rapid growth of Bangladeshs exports of knitwear.

Social Impact:
The major strength of the Bangladesh textile industry is the pool of motivated workers. The sector has created jobs for about 2.5 million people (Table 4) of which 70% are women originating mostly from rural areas. Due to a liberal cultural attitude towards women in the workforce, the RMG sector has transformed a traditionally male dominated society to one where women have an equal status as earners in the household (see Zohir and Majumder, 1996). The number of factories in the RMG sector increased in tandem from less than a thousand in FY 91 to about five thousands in FY 08. Competitive wage rate together with easily trainable workforce helps transform the comparative advantages into copetitive advantage in this sector. Directly employed labor force in the knitwear sector are 1 million

and another 0.5 millions are indirectly employed.

The major impetus behind the phenomenal growth of the knitwear sector is the labor intensity in the production process. As the BKMEA claims, there were more than 2000 thousand establishments in FY 95 which increased to about 5000 thousand in FY 08 implying 5.88% growth per annum. Employment of workers grew in tandem. There were 1.5 million workers in FY 95 which increased to 2.5 in FY 08 implying a growth of 5.62% per annum. Comparing the number of establishments and the number workers employed one can discern that average size of the firm did not change during the period. So, entry and attrition were more or less simultaneous during the period.

Number of Establishments, Employment, and Firm Size in the Knitwear Sector

Year

Number of Establishments 2182 2353 2503 2726 2963 3200 3480 3618 3760 3957 4107 4220 4490 4740

Employment (in million) 1.20 1.29 1.30 1.50 1.50 1.60 1.80 1.80 2.00 2.00 2.10 2.20 2.40 2.50

Employment per Firm 550 548 519 550 506 500 517 498 532 505 511 521 535 527

1994-95 1995-96 1996-97 1997-98 1998-99 1999-00 2000-01 2001-02 2002-03 2003-04 2004-05 2005-06 2006-07 2007-08

Source: BKMEA Website

>>CHAPTER-II<<
RAW MATERIALS

RAW MATERIALS OF M.M.KNITWEAR LTD.: Knitting section

Raw material is a unique substance in any production oriented textile industry. It .plays a vital role in continuous production and for high quality fabric.

Raw material Types

1. Yarn 2. Fabric 3. Dye stuff 4. Chemical and auxiliaries

Yarn:
Sudhan combed, SSM Combed, Precot Combed, Maral, Srimatha, Nahar CombSlave, Sohag, Faisal Sluv, Maral Sluv, Delta Viscos etc are purchased from India and local market.

Lycra:
1.Roica from Taiwan 2. Texlon Korea.

In knitting section, for knitting fabrics only yarn is used as raw materials. There are different
types of yarns are used as raw materials in this factory. These are 1. Cotton yarn: (A).Combed. (B).Carded. 2. Polyester yarn: (A). Normal. (B).Micro.

3. CVC. 4. Grey mlange. 5. Anther mlange. 6. Spandex (Lycra). 7. Different types of colored yarns for Auto-striper.

SOURCE OF RAW MATERIALS:

Yarn Types. 100% Cotton, Combed. 100% Cotton, Carded. 100%Cotton, Combed. 100%Cotton, Carded. 100% Cotton, Carded. 100% Cotton, Carded. 100%Cotton, Combed. 100%Cotton, Combed 100%Cotton, Combed. 100% Cotton, Carded. 100% Cotton, Carded. 100%Cotton, Combed. 100%Cotton, Combed Grey mlange(85% Cotton +15% viscose) Grey mlange () Spandex ( Lycra)

Yarn Count 40/s 40/s 34/s 34/s 32/s 30/s 30/s 30/s 26/s 26/s 24/s 24/s 20/s 34/s 26/s 20/d

ource of Yarn Shinha Tex Rahmat Tex Akij Tex Shamim Tex Shamim Tex Akij Tex Akij Tex Keya Tex Akij Tex Keya Tex Akij Tex Akij Tex Keya Tex Shamim Tex Shamim Tex Korea,Chine&Taiwan

Another source of raw materials is as follows

1.Jamuna Spg. Mill Ltd, 4. Amber Spg. Mill Ltd 7. Square Spg. Mill Ltd 2. Paradise Spg. Mill Ltd 3. Utha Spg. Mill Lt

5. Cotton concern Spg. Mill Ltd 6. J.K Spg. Mill Ltd 8. Talha Spg. Mill Ltd

Yarn Count

are

The following count of yarn that are widely used for knitting process given:
a. b. c. d. e. f. g. Cotton: 20/1,24/1,26/1,28/1,30/1,34/1,40/1 Ne Terylene cotton: : 20/1,24/1,26/1,28/1,30/1 Ne CVC: 26/1,30/1,34/1 Ne Melange: 20/1,22/1,26/1,30/1 Ne Spandex: 40D,70D Polyester:75D,150D Sewing thread: 40/2,150D etc

>>CHAPTER III<<
MARKETING

Marketing:
Marketing activities are done in this mill, Beximco Knitting Ltd. by a skillful team of marketing officers under the Executive Director. Here are the details of marketing activities.

Buyer of M.M.KNITWEAR LTD:

S.L NO.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 21 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

BUYER NAME
P&C, Katag, Ulla Popken Mister & Lady Tki NewYorker WoolWorth Mustang Pierre Cardin Dunnes Stores Heatons Next George Matalan Bhs Spring Field Women Secret Gor Factory Hema B.Young Terranova Secure YSL Delta Plus Giordano Seven Hill Colins Mudo LPP

COUNTRY
Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany UK. UK. UK. UK. UK. UK. UK. Spain Spain Spain Netherlands Denmark Italy Italy France France Korea Turkey Turkey Turkey Poland

Classification of Label: BEXTEX have a small Label industry. They produce various types of decorative labels. Labels can be classified as follows1. According to end use:
Main Label: it is used to describe various types of information's like fiber composition of the garment/textile, logo of the company, name of the manufacturing country etc.

Size Label: it is used to describe the size of the garment/textile, e.g. small (S), medium (M), large (L), extra large (XL) etc, Extra Label: This type of label is introduced recently they are attached at the placket or at
the bottom part of the shirt or any other part.

Care Labels: It is used to describe care instructions or symbols like i.e. washing,
bleaching, drying, ironing and/or dry washing etc.

Sticker Label: This type of labels is fancy items and is attached to various types of articles
either to show the brand names and other details or enhance their customer acceptability. 2. According to Fabric Construction: Plain or taffeta, Twill and Sateen. This is in fact the ground weave of the label. The ground weave of labels can be taffeta, twill or sateen. There are good reasons for using particular type weave.

3. According to use of Colored Threads: Labels produced from only ground yarns (without inserting any additional colored yarns). Labels produced from ground as well as colored threads.
Package Size and Label:
Most common sizes are 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. S =Small. M =Medium. L =Large. XL =Extra Large. XLL=Very Very Large.

Duties and Responsibilities of Marketing Officer:

1. Executive director takes order from the buyer and gives order the marketing officers troops to produce a cost sheet. 2. Marketing officers are known the amount and design of product. 3. They collect the sample from the buyers and send to knitting and dyeing section. 4. Knitting section adjusts the amount of total yarn and knitting conditions and dyeing sections adjust the amount of dyes and chemicals. They send a rough calculation to the marketing section. 5. Marketing officers adjust the amount of garments accessories with the help of their own experiences and their knowledge. They also take help of garments in charge. 6. Finally, they adjust their cost sheet after consulting with the Executive Director and copy several pieces of the cost sheet.

>>CHAPTER IV<<
IMPORTANCE OF THIS SURVEY

IMPORTTANCE OF THIS SURVEY:

To get idea about the knitted fabric faults named spirility and shrinkage in knitting industry. To get knowledge about the cause of spirility and shrinkage. To get knowledge about the processes to minimize spirility and shrinkage problems. To get idea about the problems create for spirility and shrinkage.

>>CHAPTER-V<<
SPIRILITY & SHRINKAGE

Spirality
Spirality is a dimensional distortion in circular plain knitted fabrics. The Wales or needle lines, should occupy a truly vertical line in the fabric and should always be right angles to the cross wise courses of stitches. This perpendicularity of Wales to the courses is frequently, not the case and many times the Wales may skew to the right or left forming an angle, which appears in the form of a twilled surface .

This geometrical defect has been termed Spirality of circular knitted fabrics. The following Figure shows the fabrics with normal loop position and with Spirality having wale skewness.

Courses

Courses

Wales

Wales Fig: Fabric with spirality

= Angle of spirality dddddddddaAgn

Spirality has definite influence on both the functional and aesthetic performance of knitted fabrics and their garments. Displacements or shifting of seams during the garment make-up, mismatched patterns due to wale skewness, sewing difficulties etc are some important practical difficulties due to spirality. As the dimensional properties of the fabrics are affected by spirality, it is very difficult to minimize or eliminate it altogether. This spirality problem is often corrected in finishing treatments by imposing distortion to fabrics so that the wales straighten out and subsequently set in new from. Though the setting by finishing treatments are normally achieved by using resins, heat, steam, mercerization etc, it is not permanent and after repeated washings, the wale skewness takes place.

Fig: Fabric with normal loop position

Shrinkage
A dimensional change resulting in a decrease in the length or width of a specimen subjected to specified conditions is known shrinkage. Shrinkage is mainly due to yarn swelling and the resulting crimp increase during washing in case of cotton fabrics. Yarn swelling percentage is more in polyester cotton blending yarn. Reduction in length and width of fabric induced by conditioning, wetting, steaming, chemical treatment, wet processing as in laundering, in chemical practice and in literature the following terms have been used to describe the shrinkage which occurs in testing procedure: a) Relaxation shrinkage c)Compressive shrinkage b) Felting shrinkage, d)Residual shrinkage.

a) Relaxation shrinkage: During manufactures fabrics and their component yarns are subjeceted to tension under varying conditions of temperature and moisture content, after manufacturing when the fabric is taken from the machine and keep on floor or store room, then the fabric tends to shrink, this type shrinkage is called relaxation shrinkage. b) Felting shrinkage: In case of wool fibers dimensional changes can be magnified by felting shrinkage. When untreated wool fibers are subjected to mechanical action in the presence of moisture. c) Compressive shrinkage: A process in which fabric is caused to shrink in length by compression. The process often referred to as controlled compressive shrinkage. d) Residual shrinkage: after washing the fabric is shrunk. This type of shrinkage is called residual shrinkage. Residual shrinkage is the main factor of garments industry

>>CHAPTER VI<<
CAUSE OF SHRINKAGE & SPIRALITY

Causes Of Shrinkage:
i) ii) iii) iv) Twist factor; twist factor increases so that shrinkage will be increases. Stitch length; stitch length increases so that shrinkage will be increases. GSM; GSM increases so that shrinkage will be decreases. Elasticity of yarn.

Causes Of Spirality:
The residual torque in the component yarn caused due to bending & twisting is the most important phenomenon contributing to spirality. The residual torque is shown by its twist liveness. Hence the greater the twist liveness, the greater the spirality. Twist liveness of yarn is affected by the twist factor or twist multiplier. Besides the torque, spirality is also governed by fiber parameters, xsection, yarn formation system, yarn geometry, knit structure & fabric finishing. M/C parameters (no. of feeder, m/c gauge etc.) also contributes to spirality. For instance, with multifeeder circular knitting m/cs, course inclination will be more, thus exhibit spirality. Influencing factors: 1) Count: When the yarn dia reduces its resistance to deformation also decreases. It indicates that deformation of loop structure is influenced by yarn count. In other words the finer the yarn the more will be the spirality due to more twisting. 2) Twist: (a) Twist multiplier: We know, TM=TPI/count So when TM is increased, TPI also increased & the spirality of fabric also increased. TM 3.2 3.5 3.8 Twist liveness(cm) 19.69 25.99 28.96 4.2 6.5 7.3 Spirality(degree)

(b) Twist factor: We know, TF= TPcm tex So, when TF is increased, TPcm also increased & spirality of fabric also increased. (3) Conditioning: Atmospheric temperature & humidity also greatly affects the spirality.

(4) Spinning method: If yarn is produced in ring spinning system, that causes greater spirality than produced in Rotor spinning & air spinning system. (5) Blending of fibre: 100% cotton yarn shows more spirality than 50% polyester-cotton blend yarn. (6) Fabric stitch length: This is the length of one loop in knitted fabric, spirality increases with the decreasing of stitch length. (7) Fabric structure: More spirality in s/j due to non-arrest of loops. By adding moisture to such a structure , the twist will try to revert as it swells, that distorts the shape of the loop. In double jersey, the multifeed pique & honey comb also show spirality even if sometimes two beds are used. Spirality can be noticed in certain jacquard structures. In stripe pattern it increases with the size. No appreciable problem of spirality is there in ribs & interlocks. (8) Fabric tightness: Slack fabric presents higher spirality angle compared to tightly knitted fabrics. At each level of yarn twist factor, the degree of spirality decreases linearly with fabric tightness factor. (9) Fabric relaxation: Fabric relaxation (dry & wet) treatment remover the residual knitting process. The relaxation treatment relieves the residual yarn torque as a result of charges in the molecular structure & increasing yarn mobility. (10) M/C gauge: In knitting terminology, no of needles per inches is called gauge. Smaller the gauge lesser will be the spirality keeping other parameter constant. A proper combination of linear density gauge is required to reduce spirality eg. Torque can be controlled in 20 gauge & 40s count. (11) Knitting tension: The effects of various knitting tension including the whole process of loop formation on fabric spirality had been investigated by the researchers. Experimental investigation could not establish consistent tends with respect to variations in fabric quality with knitting tension. The twist factor of ply &single yarn, loop length & fibre dia has significant effects on the angle of spirality, while yarn linear density & fabric tightness factor have comparatively lesser effect. (12) Direction of m/c rotation: Z-twist yarn gives z skew, s-twist gives s-skew to the fabric. With multifeed m/cs , the fabric is created in helix, which gives rise to course inclination & consequently wale spirality . Direction depends on the rotational direction of the knitting m/c. Earlier research work revealed that, for a clockwise rotating m/c, the wale would be inclined towards the left. Thus producing the spirality.

(13) Effect of fibre staple length: In case of short staple fibre, cotton yarn liveliness is greater than viscose. So the produced fabric spirality decreased with viscose yarn. The yarn with long staple length has less spirality because of having less twist. For long staple fibre wool has less liveliness than the acrylic fibre. (14) Effect of Ring & Rotor Yarn: Spirality change between Ring & Rotor Yarn: Dry relaxed state 4.68 6.71 8.07 4.78 5.48 5.7 Wet relaxed state 4.1 5.05 10.25 4.3 4.3 4.5 Washing at 0 60 C 4.4 6.1 10.4 5.0 5.65 5.05 Washing at 0 80 C 7.9 9.3 10.45 5.5 7.0 9 Washing at 0 90 C 7.9 9.5 11 5.65 7.1 9.05

Ring Yarn

Rotor Yarn

455 0.224 505 0.262 554 0.282 500 0.225 550 0.279 600 0.303

6 5 Spirality Angle (Degree) 4 3 2 1 0 0.224 0.279 Loop Length (cm) 0.303 Rotor Yarn

Fig: Dry Relaxed State

(15) Effect of combed or carded yarn: In same count & TPI the carded yarn has more spirality than the combed yarn. Because carded yarn needs more twist than the co9mbeed yarn. (16) Effect of dyeing: In case of dyeing with dark colors the spirality decreases and for light colors the spirality will be increased.

(17) Effect of finishing: Among the finishing machines, the stenter machine controls the form of spirality and this control point is continued during compacting. (18)Effect of clothing: Spirality creates a big problem at the clothing step. It affects the garments as the displacements of the side seam and this causes an important quality problem.

>>CHAPTER VII<<
METHOD TO MINIMISE THE SHRINKAGE & SPIRILITY

Remedies Of Shrinkage :

1) In order to maintain the weight at a lower shrinkage, a finer yarn is used. 2) In order to maintain the width, a larger dia knitting machine or a longer stitch length is necessary. 3) In order to maintain the same knitted tightness factor, or cover factor ( square root of tex divided by stitch length) with a finer yarn, a shorter average stitch length must be knitted. 4) Changes in yarn count and stitch length also change the stitch density which again changes the weight and the width for a given level of shrinkage. Changes in the tightness factor will change the extensibility of the fabric and will also affect the amount of spirality (fabric twisting) which may be developed.

Ramedies Of Spirality:

Compacting:

If the length of the fabric based on its elongation during processing which, in turn, reduces the width. It helps in controlling the shrinkage of the fabric. There are two types of compactors, open and tubular. In tubular compacting the squeezing line gets on the sides in this process and is done on natural movement thus controlling spirality. If the wales are straightened manually then it results in spirality. Yarn twist direction and machine rotation direction:

If the machine rotates clockwise then the spirality can be reduced by suing yarn of Stwist. Otherwise if the machine rotates anti-clockwise the spirality can be reduced by using the yarn of Z-twist. Use of special type of yarn:

One comparative way minimize the spirality is to use the vortex spun yarn which is obtained from Murata vortex spinning system. And modified friction spun DREF III yarn reduces yarn snarling and fabric spirality. By using plating yarn: In fabric production when used plating yarn it reduce the spirality.

>>CHAPTER VIII<<
PROBLEM ASSOCIATED WITH SHRINKAGE & SPIRALITY

PROBLEM ASSOCIATED WITH SHRINKAGE: Shrinkage is rated as one of the leading quality problems in the garments industry.Fabric shrinkage can cause problem into main areas , either during garments manufacture or during subsequent laundering by the ultimate customer. Fabric relaxtion shrinkage may cause sizing problem ,as the finished garments will be smaller than it was planned .It also leads in formation of puckeredseams infinal pressing.

PROBLEM ASSOCIATED WITH SPIRALITY: Spirality has definite influence on both the functional and aesthetic performance of knitted fabrics and their garments. Displacements or shifting of seams during the garment make-up mismatched patterns due to wale skewness sewing difficulties etc are some important practical difficulties due to spirality.

>>CHAPTER IX<<
CONTROL PARAMETER FOR SPIRALITY

Considering the following parameters can control spirality: count

The yarn is finer, the spirality will be more due to more twisting

4.3 4.2 4 3.9 3.8 3.7 3.6 3.5 175 GSM 178 GSM 179 GSM 180 GMS 182 GSM Spirality (%) 4.1

3.2 3.1 3 2.9 2.8 2.7 2.6 2.5 2.4 175 178 179 180 182 GSM GSM GSM GSM GSM

Fig: Effect of spirality on GSM (34Ne Combed yarn)

Fig-: Effect of spirality on GSM (26Ne Carded yarn)

TWIST
Twist multiplier: TM=TPI/count So when TM is increased,TPI also increased & the spirality of fabric also increased. TM 3.2 3.5 3.8 Twist liveness (cm) 19.69 25.99 28.96 4.2 6.5 7.3 Spirality (degree)

Twist factor: TF= TPcm tex So, when TF is increased, TPcm also increased & spirality of fabric also increased

Blending of fibre:
100% cotton yarn shows more spirality than polyester-cotton blend yarn on different procedure of dry.

6 S 5 p i Sample 1 4 r sample 2 a %3 l 2 Sample 3 i 1 t Sample 4 y 0 Sample 5 120 GSM(Tumble Dry) (Hang Dry) 120 GSM 120 GSM (Flat Dry) ) Spirality (%)

3.5 3 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0 120 GSM 120 GSM 120 GSM (Tumble (Hang Dry) (Flat Dry) Dry)

FOR 100% COTTON OF SINGLE JERSEY(FG-1) OF SINGLE JERSEY (FG-2)

| FOR BLENDED (COTTON + POLYESTER)

>>CHAPTER-X<<

conclution

CONCLUTION:
In general the angle of spirality values are decreasing, when the tightness factor values are getting tight in the all knitted fabric samples. In slack knitted fabric structures, the loop can easily find area to rotate so spirality is increasing.

The spirality angle of the fabrics knitted with ring yarns are very high comparing with the fabrics knitted with open-end yarns. This shows the effect of the spiraled on twist liveliness. Because the twist liveliness of the ring yarns used in producing single jersey fabric is higher than the open-end yarns used in producing single jersey fabrics. Fabrics shrinkage depends on different fabric structure i.e; single jersey, rib, interlock and their derivatives. Yarn composition i.e; 100% cotton and polyester and synthetic yarn. More research and development is required to control the fabric specifications accurately. We could not able to execute the project work perfectly for limitations of time and lack of opportunity to examine the various tests in the factory.