Guest Lectures

Date 30/08/12 Name Ms. Dolly Thakore Theatre and Communication Expert Phone No. 9821074172

04/09/12 06/09/12
11/09/12 13/09/12 18/09/12 04/10/12 09/10/12 16/10/12

Ms. Vaishali Menon Ms. Priyanjali Lehri

Ms. Vaishali Menon Ms. Riddhi Mapxenkar Mr. Tanmay Aggarwal Mr. Anup Mr. Rajiv Rai Ms. Isha Mantry

Television Costume Designer Film and Television costume designer & stylist
Television Costume Designer Film and Television costume designer & stylist Cinematographer Make-up expert Lighting and photography expert Film and Television costume designer

9820900539 9820679021
9820900539 9892044311

9820457547 9820987474 9920802274

Films,

Fashion
&
im a g e .

this elective
Aim:

To

understand the art of interpretation of fashion

through Movies, Words and Expressions. Which like an illusion often fly through the air with such overwhelming speed and variety that you aren't sure what a particular expression means. It's possible that you may not have even noticed that the words have entered your ears. But, if you go to the movies you may suddenly realize that such fashion vocabulary pops up all the time. It then becomes internalized, hopefully stored in your longterm memory. This process creates popularity and an identity which is the relation between films and fashion.

Concept
Understand the close link between society

and cinema, the way

each run parallel, the political influences mirrored in cinema.

To comprehend the idea behind creating movies, the

bridge between a creators vision and the moving/still images that bring to life each character in the plot, thus be acquainted with the idea of art
story-telling. To gain a historical / contemporary costumes, accessories and the look.

perspective towards

To understand this media : we would try with perception, study the link between still or moving images and a creators

sensitivity, study of fashion and clothing as

visual images which are seen through the camera, and significance of necessary in-depth study into costumes, clothing, styles, accessories and the link between the socio-cultural-political structure of society that inspires this media or the expression of freedom as one could call it.

Context:
Analyzing the characters portrayed in celluloid and how often they transcend

into the REAL life society. The style,

persona, image and even the apparel and accessories are so strongly

enforced in society that it occasionally turns out to develop into a cult. Looking at the process of creating a style image for moving films or still images.

Skill

To research films, fashion, photography.

Understand the influence of costumes, styles, looks, accessories and make-up on films. To be able to grasp the definitions script.

of emotions read in the

To get familiarized with the terminology used in the fields of costume making, photography, sets/props, make-up/hair, etc.

Skill

To understand the difference between costume design and image creation. To understand the making of sequels and re-makes. To comprehend the concept of conceptualizing costumes for different subjects like fantasy, fiction, period films, science fiction etc. Analyzing the personal style of fashion / screen icons, their body proportions, style statements, the importance of image in the film scenario, and the process of becoming celebrities. The creating of an image that remains like a classic fashion style.

Types of Assignments
All assignments are required to be done in a Learning Diary (A4 sized-blank-paged book of 100 pages, Hand-written with visuals)

Research on films like period films,

costumes films, fiction, fantasy, etc. Study on films in terms of

understanding the storyline and

relating the same to the entire presentation of the film like lighting, casting, costumes, props, etc.

Study of construction of costumes and accessories.

Analysis of character, story, costumes, etc.

Types of Assignments Study of Characters

their perspective, their methodology of presentations, their skill in delivering the specified character in terms of dialogue, costumes, and expressions.

understanding style icons, film characters and

Research on
their persona.

Film Reviews and analysis.

Methodology
Selection of specific films with relation to costumes, emphasizing on research

and innovation. Analysis of costumes and styles and their relation to the plot or
the story and understanding the concept behind the entire presentation.

Methodology
Reinterpretation of the
story or the plot in terms of costumes, style, look and other visual aspects through.

illustrations and
sketches.

Methodology
Explorations in terms of design possibilities, costumes construction into markets.

mainstream commercial clothing and other aspects of the

Three Idiots movie merchandise exclusively designed by Pantaloons.

Methodology
Apart from understanding the materials and processes involved in the producing of films, we also need to understand the

environment on which certain real-life

films are based on. A visual understanding of the history and the nature of these environments is required, which enables one to comprehend the synthesis of materials and human resources, technology and processes, This subject needs complete research and

markets and economic exchanges..

documentation study and contextual study

like on-field experiences, newspaper excerpts/ articles, and presentations

Process of interpretation of characters. Understanding characters in a contemporary / original manner to be able to recreate newer

Methodology

styles.
Analyze characters in relation to fashion, style icons and identity. To be able to synthesize a contemporized society to various attributes of cinema. This topic deals with looking at aspects, which intrigues our society with regard

to role-play.
Looking into the New Age cinema.

 Fashion Costume & Culture

Sara Pendergast, Tom Pendergast. Vols. 1 to 5

References
Jewellery by Chanel
Patrik Mauries

Cinemas of India
Thorval

Indian Costumes in the Collection of the Calico Meseum of Textiles.

- B.N.Goswamy

Hundred Luminaries of Hindi Cinema

Dinesh Raheja, Jitendra Kothari.

The Image and the Eye.

- E.H. Gombrich

Illustrating Fashion

The Movie Book

Publisher: Phaidon

- Mckelvey Munslow

Fashion Rendering with Color.

- Bina Abling

Complete Costume History

Auguste Racinet

Fashion Design Drawing Course

- Caroline Tatham & Julian Seaman

Hair and Make-up Collections

Christian Dior.

Encyclopedia of Clothing & Fashion

- Valerie Steele. Vols. 1,2,& 3

Fashion Icon
- Mike Toth & Jeenie DAmato

Fashion 2001
Lucille Khornak

 Costume Design in the Movies

Elizabeth Leese / Frederick Ungar.

References

The Chronicle of the movies

Cresent Books

What a drag: men as women and women as men in the movies

Dicken Homer

Hollywood Jewels:movies, jewelry, stars

Proddow Penny

Undressing Cinema : Clothing identity in the movies

Stella Bruzzi

Hollywood costume design

David Chierichetti.

History

Film, Fashion
&

Image.

 Films is an integral part of the society today. One needs to understand the concept behind this statement. It is human behavior to be psychologically drawn towards the unusual, attractiveness and the feeling of being in a place where one is not. Fashion in films have come from a deep study about the mindset of people and the urge to live in a specific environment. Understanding the details of creating the image in films through fashion and costumes is an integral part or activity performed by a film on people.

Costumes Script related to costumes Make-up and hairstyles Film reviews and critics Publications and Promotions Photography Fashion / style icons Backgrounds and sets in relation to the story/plot and costumes Props

Pirates of the Caribbean

Understanding the script to

design costumes.
The Young Victoria

Films are one of the important mediums to exhibit fashion in India especially. The creation of designs and deciding the look of the film needs precision and understanding of the concept and story of the film. Films have a visual and psychological impact through which it spreads fashion, lifestyles, societal behavior, etc. Social aspects taken as concepts in films act as add-ons to the fashion in films.

History plays a very integral part in fashion thus leading to films.

The entire theory or what had happened in that time of an era has a direct impact on the garments which are then converted into costumes for films. And further create an image or a fashion statement.

 Props and its importance to deliver the theme on a film,

and props give that added illusion that is required. They also give the costume designer the idea of color, form, space and design, which enables one to design costumes accordingly.

Creating flexible snake props for a Calvin Klein window displays in New York, Paris, Rome and Milan. For accuracy, 2 recently deceased Burmese Pythons are shipped to Nimbas workshop for life casting. The creatures have been frozen to stop decomposition during transit, and must be defrosted to begin the process. As the selected 11ft long snake defrosts, it is laid out in a straight line on a table ready for molding .Three sections of the snake are life-cast; the head and tail which will become part of the final sculpture, and a midsection of the body which will serve as reference material. With the life casting complete, resin castings of the head and tail are attached to a 11ft long steel armature, and the body section has oil based clay applied which blends into the two castings. Intricate scale patterns are meticulously etched by hand to complete the sculpture. Nimba Creations Ltd. is special effects company based in England supplying creatures, props, animatronics, models, special costumes, designs and sets for films, TV shows & live events, like trade shows.

Creating props

Make-up in films

Make-up in films
One needs to understand the psychological effects Make-up has. The visual impact on-screen creates an aura of the character envisioned in the story. It also creates inspiring styles that helps audience to

develop their senses into recreating that same image and also
sometimes relating that look to real people. Make-up also creates a hypothetical situation that can
X-Men

be true for the three hours you

spend in the cinema hall. E.g. Nightmare on Elms Street. Not all make-up for movies are scary and artificial, they also exhibit latest fashions, street style, naturals, etc.
The Reader Sex And The City

Why are hair styles so very important in films? When one looks at the history of films or fashion icons one sees a majority of fan worship is dedicated to the hairstyles of famous stars and icons. Hairstyles create that frame required to develop the look based on that story. This element needs understanding of the costume, story, the actor acting the character and the complete understanding of the look decided for that film.

Hair styles

Illustrated representations are very important in film costumes as they create the emotion, look, style, etc. of that particular character in the film.

GOLDEN ERA OF FILMS

Introduction to Indian Cinema

The Indian movie industry is often referred to as Bollywood, which does not have any physical (vocabulary) existence. It is a name probably derivied from Bombay+Hollywood to denote mainly the Hindi movie industry present in Mumbai (which was earlier Bombay). What are the other film industries in India called???? Movies first came to India on 7th July 1896 by The Lumiere Brothers who brought their cinematographic machine to Bombay and showcased Arrival of a Train at the Ciotat Station** and Leaving the Factory to the audience. Earlier films were made on various day-to-day activities of people putting emphasis on certain events that would then disturb-steady-waters or attract very unusual responses from public.
** The story goes that when the film was first shown, the audience was so overwhelmed by the moving image of a life-sized train coming directly at them that people screamed and ran to the back of the room.

Tamil cinema is known for being India's largest film industry after Bollywood, in terms of revenue and worldwide distribution. Based in the Kodambakkam

district of Chennai, where several Tamil

language feature films are produced, has led to a reference to the film industry as Kollywood (a combination of the words Kodambakkam and Hollywood.) The cinema of West Bengal is referred to as Tollygunge (a neighborhood of Kolkata where most of the Bengali film studios are

located. The origins of the nickname

Tollywood, a combination of the words Tollygunge and Hollywood, dates back to 1932.

INDIAN CINEMA @ 100 1912 - 2012

Indian cinema turned 100 on April 21, 2012. In a country where over 1,000 films are made every year, in several languages, when we celebrate a century of filmmaking excellence, how do we define Indian cinema?
Bollywood movies, naturally comprise the majority of Indian film industry, while regional films make up the rest (Tamil, Telugu, Kannada, Malayalam, Marathi, Oriya, Bengali, Gujarati, Bhojpuri etc). From Teflon coated candy floss romances peppered with lavish song-dance sequences shot in exotic locales, gritty underworld flicks, coming of age pangs of 20-somethings, kick butt action capers to social melodramas and tickle you pink stories - the Indian movies have just about touched every genre of entertainment. Dadasaheb Torney made the First Feature Film of India "Pundalik" in 1912, one year before the official feature film "Raja Harishchandra" made by Dadasaheb Phalke in 1913. Some of the best films come to light as Indian cinema turns 100: A landmark movie of Indian cinema, Bandini (1963) was the last directorial venture of Bimal Roy. It was the 10th highest grosser of the year. Starring Nutan, Ashok Kumar and Dharmendra, it explores the conflicts of the Indian woman. Haqeeqat A 1964 Hindi war-film directed by Chetan Anand, it was based on the 1962 Sino-Indian War. Starring Balraj Sahni, Dharmendra and Sanjay Khan, it won the National Film Award for Second Best Feature Film in 1965.

INDIAN CINEMA @ 100 1912 - 2012

Sangam Raj Kapoors first colour film, Sangam (1964), started the Bollywood trend of foreign locales for onlocation shooting, such as Venice, Paris, and Switzerland. It starred Vyjayanthimala, Raj Kapoor and Rajendra Kumar. Guide A 1965 classic starring Dev Anand and Waheeda Rehman, it was directed by Vijay Anand. Based on the novel, The Guide, by RK Narayan, the movie is remembered for it its award-winning performances and music by SD Burman. Waqt This Yash Chopra film pioneered the concept of films with multiple stars. The plot of this movie reintroduced the lost and reunite formula in Bollywood and took the top spot at the box office in 1965.

INDIAN CINEMA @ 100 1912 - 2012

About a year before Dadasaheb Phalke's 'Raja Harishchandra' was screened at Mumbai's Olympia Theatre, another man equally passionate about movies, made a film and released it. Puneite Ramchandra Gopal alias Dadasaheb Torne made 'Pundlik' which was screened on May 18, 1912 at Coronation Cinematograph, in Mumbai. Yet Raja Harishchandra is recognised as the first full length, fully indigenous, Indian feature film. Torne's film was not accorded the status over a technicality, and its maker has remained an unsung hero in the history of Indian cinema.

The 1930's and the 1940's have been described as "The Golden Age of Motion Pictures".

The industry was still young and growing. The greatest growth however was in America. Hollywood quickly became the world capital of motion pictures. Factors ,like World War II which sent many European film makers to America, made Hollywood in the thirties and the forties indeed unique. No matter where you were in the world, if you wanted to make movies, you came to Hollywood. For sheer concentration of genius, Hollywood at that time had no equal.

"Golden Age of motion pictures 1930's and 1940's

For many other reasons, the 30's and 40's were great years for making motion pictures. How fitting that this decade culminated with the most extraordinary year in motion picture history...1939 (most number of motion films made). Never in the history of film has there been a year which produced so many great motion pictures.
When we think of 1939, we immediately think of Gone With the Wind and The Wizard of Oz but one can only gasp in awe at the list of other greats created that same year, Wuthering Heights, Goodbye Mr. Chips, The Women, Mr. Smith Goes to Washington, Destiny Rides Again, The Old Maid, Stagecoach and the list goes on! The thirties closed with this remarkable year serving as a last gasp of innocence before the dark clouds of war descended. This then, is a feeble attempt to pay homage to the great directors, stars, photographers, writers and others who made the 1930's and 1940's truly golden years.

"Golden Age of motion pictures 1930's and 1940's

Golden Age in Indian Cinema

In 1913, Dadasaheb Phalke came up with Raja Harischandra, which became the first Indian silent feature film. 1931, Ardeshir Irani released the first sound film made in India, Alam Ara. The first color film of India, Kisan Kanya, directed by Moti B. Gidvani and produced by Ardeshir Irani of Imperial Pictures. It is largely remembered by the Indian public on account of it being India's first indigenously made color film. Following India's independence, the period from the late 1940s

to the 1960s are regarded by film historians as the 'Golden Age'

of Indian cinema. Some of the most critically acclaimed Indian films of all time were produced during this period. In commercial Hindi cinema, examples of famous films at the time

include the Guru Dutt films Pyaasa (1957) and Kaagaz Ke Phool
(1959) and the Raj Kapoor films Awaara (1951) and Shree 420 (1955).

Golden Age in Indian Cinema

The films during the Golden Age expressed social themes mainly dealing with working-class urban life in India, topics and storyline of films during this time dealt with current social issues and the making of a film was not a rushed job as one sees it today. Awaara presented the city (Bombay) as both a nightmare and a dream, while Pyaasa critiqued the unreality of city life. Some of the most famous epic films of
The opening shots leave you in no doubt of the

Hindi cinema were also produced at

the time, including Mehboob Khan's melancholy that dominates Kaagaz Ke Phool. An old
man reflecting on a glorious past, his life a shambles, Mother India (1957), which was abandoned and mistreated by a society that once

revered him. A celebrity director reduced to an extra in

the for Best Foreign Language Film,in the film very studio that witnessed his rise and industry. His word once was writ. And then it had no K. Asif's Mughal-e-Azam1960). audience, neither did his movies..

nominated for the Academy Award

Golden Age in Indian Cinema

While commercial Indian cinema was thriving, the period also
saw the emergence of a new Parallel Cinema movement, mainly led by Bengali cinema. Early examples of films in this movement include Chetan Anand's Neecha Nagar (1946), Ritwik Ghatak's Nagarik (1952), and Bimal Roy's Two Acres of Land (1953), laying the foundations for Indian neorealism and the "Indian New Wave". Pather Panchali (1955), the first part

of the The Apu Trilogy

(19551959) by Satyajit Ray, marked

his entry in Indian cinema.

During the 1960s, Indira Gandhi's intervention during her reign as the Information and Broadcasting Minister of India further led to production of off-beat cinematic expression being supported by the official Film Finance Corporation.

MODERN AGE CINEMA - INDIA

MODERN AGE CINEMA - INDIA

The modern cinema period in Bollywood film industry saw the emergence of romantic and action movies with actors like Rajesh Khanna and Dharmendra and sensuous actresses like SharmilaTagore, Helen and Mumtaz. Then mid 1970's saw the coming of the "angry young man" Amitabh Bachchan, which single handedly changed the way we looked at the movies. Sholay (1975) and Deewar (1975) opened an altogether new chapter in the Indian cinema.

Sholay turned out to be one of the biggest revenue earners of all time and it's said that at one time, almost everyone living in India had seen Sholay for at least one time. Other major actors of this period were Shashi Kapoor and Mithun Chakraborty, while actresses included Hema Malini, Jaya Bhaduri (who married to Amitabh and is now known as Jaya Bachchan) and Rekha.

MODERN AGE CINEMA INDIA Late 80s

The late 80's and early 1990's history saw romantic musical movies taking center stage. 1987 saw the first fine sci-fi movie created by Shekhar Kapur, Mr. India (1987). One of the best villain role by Amrish Puri as Mogambo, memorable songs and a unique storyline, gave this movie a classic cult status. New heroes such as Aamir Khan, Salman Khan and Shahrukh Khan gave some unforgettable Hindi movies like Qayamat Se Qayamat Tak (1988), Maine Pyar Kiya (1989), Hum Aapke Hain Kaun (1994) and Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge (1995). Sridevi, Madhuri Dixit, Juhi Chawla and Kajol emerged as the lead actresses of this period. The later part of 1990's saw actors such as Govinda and Akshay Kumar providing comic relief and new action sequences to the viewers. Karishma Kapoor reigned in this period and became a national heart-throb. Costumes in this time too caught on to public fancy. Name some

MODERN AGE CINEMA INDIA

Post 2000
Post 2000, some of the finest cinematography and innovative stories have been showcased in the Bollywood movies. Kaho Naa... Pyaar Hai (2000), with fresh new faces Hrithik Roshan and Amisha Patel, instantly captured nation's attention and turned Hrithik into an overnight superstar. Movies like Koyi...Mil Gaya (2003), Dhoom 2 (2006) and Krrish (2006) further showcased the blend between Indian and Western elements. Shahrukh Khan, Salman Khan and Aamir Khan, the new generation heroes like Abhishek Bachchan and heroines like Aishwarya Rai Bachhan, Preity Zinta and Rani Mukerji created screen-images that became popular in India.

MODERN AGE CINEMA IN INDIA Parallel Cinema

Apart from the mainstream commercial cinema, Bollywood has been coming up with a parallel art cinema since 1950s.

Do Beegha Zameen (1953) by Bimal Roy and real-life movies by Guru Dutt and Satyajit Ray, added a new perspective to the Indian movie industry. During 1970s, directors like Shyam Benegal, Ketan Mehta and Govind Nihalani continued the good work on realistic cinema.
Although nothing much happened in the phase between 1975 to late 1990's for the parallel cinema world, Mira Nair's Salaam Bombay! (1988) gathered a lot of National and International acclaim and is remembered till date as one of the finest Bollywood movies ever made on the daily lives of street-children of Mumbai.

Learning Diary Topic 1

Write in your own understanding about one Indian (any regional film) and a similar conceptual Western film with a paragraph about their respective history. Add appropriate visuals. 250 words max. Submission of learning diary on Thursday 16/08/12 by 4:00 p.m.
Assignment 1: To create a costume ensemble (to be displayed on a dress-form in the reception area) for the remake of a film/television serial along with a story board (A3 size). Group Assignment, 4 students per group. (one from each discipline) Assignment 1 Submission 06/09/12