Session 1,2

What is quality Quality related terms & Definitions

Ref: Managing Quality in the apparel Industry-Mehta and Bharadwaj:Chapter 1
Quality Assurance for Textiles and Apparel-Sara J. Kadolph ;Chapter 2

How do we define quality?

Traditional definitions of Quality

Fitness for use- Joseph Juran

Conformance to requirements- Philip Crosby

Quality defined
"Quality" is defined as that combination of design and properties of materials of a product which are needed for the intended end use and level of the market in which it is sold. "Requisite Quality" is defined as the design and composition of a product, which has been thoroughly proved by adequate development work, in order to establish its reliability under the conditions to which it will be subjected in use and to avoid producing too high a grade of product for the intended market.

Quality Defined
A holistic definition of Quality can be Quality is a dynamic state associated with products, services, people ,processes and environments that meets or exceeds expectations (Goetsch and Davis 1994) Can have a (Garvin)
Product perspective, Producer's perspective or Consumer's perspective Value perspective

product
In this view, quality is determined as a precise and measurable variable and difference in quality reflects differences in the quality of some ingredient or attitude seen to be possessed by a product. In this view quality and quantity has direct relation

customer
In this view, definitions are based on the premise that solely the user determined quality. Individual customers are assumed to have different wants or needs and goods that best satisfy the preference are the one they regarded, as having the highest perceived quality. Quality is fitness for use that this view also reflects a highly personalized and subjective view

manufacturing
This view focuses on manufacturing and engineering practices. It emphasis conformance to specified requirements. The higher the degree that meets specified requirements the higher the quality. This view seeks to ensure that the deviations from standards set design specifications are minimized. To achieve the quality of conformance means improving in the design of the Equipment Materials Supervision Control Training

Value based
The base for this view is physiological understanding of the meaning of value. Consequently, customers have been conditioned to accept that the quality of product is determined by the price. There fore price and quality have a direct relation ship

Dimensions of quality

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Positioning of a company based on Garvin`s Model Performance Features Reliability Conformance Durability Serviceability Aesthetics Perceived quality

Dimensions of quality
1.Performance: (will the product do the intended (planed or proposed) job). Potential costumer usually evaluate a product to determine if it will perform certain specific functions and determine how well it perform them.
Example: producing document case leather bag, for what purpose does is bag produced, does the bag has multi function pocket?

2.Reliability: (how often does the product fail?) different products may need repair over their service life. The leather machineries should be also reliable so as to increase productivity
Example: when we produce the leather garment, it needs higher attention during stitching. Because the nature of the needle is like cuter edge type and stitch the component by cutting the part. So re stitching is not done, means no repair and only rejection.

Dimensions of quality
3.Durability: (how long does the product last?).This is the effective service life of the product customer obviously want products that performed satisfactorily over a long period of time. 4.Serviceability: (how easy is it to repair the product?). There are many industries where the customers view of quality is directly influenced by how quickly and economically a repair or routine maintenance activity can be accomplished. Example: planned maintenance of stitching machine. 5. Aesthetics: what does the product look like?). this is the visual appeal of the product, often taking into account factors such as style, color, shape, packaging alternatives and other sensory features. 6.Features :( what does the product do? ). Usually customer associate high quality with products that have added features: that is, those that has features beyond the basic performance of the competition

Helena M de Klerk and Stephina J Lubbe;Journal of Family Ecology and Consumer Sciences, Vol 32, 2004

Quality in the garment Industry

Still at inspection level AQL Quality is inspected into the product. A few firms are attempting SPC. Still a long way to go to finally reach global quality standards

Why improve quality?

FOB is getting lesser Delivery time is getting lesser Costs are increasing. We need to keep providing better service to hold the buyers attention.
Provide indisputable quality Provide indisputable quality at better costs.

Importance of QUALITY
The consumer quality expectations have gone up Consumer is too busy to come back and complain Consumer is not interested to take special care of the product Consumer spending on apparel has reduced Stringent consumer protection laws Stores cannot afford a dissatisfied customer Working with non-quality vendors is costly

Terms related to quality

Quality Assurance 1. All those planned and systematic actions necessary to provide adequate confidence that a product or service will satisfy given requirements for quality. 2. The establishment and maintenance of ALL activities and functions concerned with the attainment of requisite quality"

Terms related to quality

Quality Control 1.The operational techniques and the activities used to fulfill the requirements of quality is called quality control. It is the regulatory process through which we measure actual quality performance, compare it with quality goals and act on the difference. 2. The systems required for programming and coordinating the efforts of the various groups in an organization to maintain the requisite quality" As such Quality Control is seen as the agent of Quality Assurance or Total Quality Control

Quality related terms

Quality Management -That aspect of the overall management function that determines and implements the quality policy. Quality System -The organizational structure, responsibilities, procedures, processes and resources for implementing quality management

Session 3,4
What is Quality Standard and Quality Grade Different textile and apparel standards
Ref:Managing Quality in the apparel IndustryMehta and Bharadwaj-Chapter 14 Quality Assurance for Textiles and ApparelSara J. Kadolph-Chapter 3

Standards
Standard a set of characteristics or procedures that provide a basis for resource and production decisions. Standardization - is the process of developing and applying rules for a consistent and uniform approach to a specific activity for the benefit and with the cooperation of all concerned.

Standards-uses
1. Used to define weights and measures 2. Used to set forth practices and expectations in the field. 3. Used to describe the characteristics of a product in a precise and consistent fashion. 4. Used to describe a minimum level of performance and safety. 5. Used to convey information about a product or material in a consistent manner. 6. Enhances efficiency standardization of parts, processes and products enables economies of scale in production. 7. Standardization leads to enhanced competition.

Types/Levels of standards
Company Standards-describe general characteristics or features of a product or service or they describe a required level of performance. Useful for the design, purchase, development and production departments as they may be developed by the company itself or adopt other organization's standards for its specific purpose.

Types/Levels of standards
Industry standards reflect consensus among companies in an industry or among individual members of a profession. Developed by trade associations or professional bodies.

Levels/Types of standards
Voluntary standards- allows individuals or companies to determine on their own whether to adopt a standard. ASTM one of the largest voluntary standards development system in the world Mandatory standards adoption is required by law or regulation. Mostly related to health or safety issues.

Comparison between Various U.S. Drawstring Standards

Neck area Prohibitions ASTM Standard (F1816-97) a Voluntary national standard: No drawstrings in the hood and neck area of certain childrens clothing. Only childrens upper outerwear. Sizes 2t to 12. Wisconsin Law(ATCP 139)-a State regulation: No drawstrings in the hood and neck area of all childrens clothing. All childrens clothing. Sizes 0 to 16.

Levels/Types of standards
International standards-standards are used internationally to facilitate trade and technology transfer among nations Goal is to
Enhance product quality and reliability at reasonable prices Improve health and safety and environmental protection Reduce hazards Produce greater compatibility of goods and services Simplify and improve product and service usability Increase distribution efficiency

Different standardizing bodies

( refer Sara Kadolph; Mehta and Bhardwaj)
ASQC- American Society for Quality control ASQC_TNT- American society for quality control-textiles and needle trade division ASTM- American Society for Testing and Materials AATCC-American association of textile chemists and colorists ANSI-American national standards Institution ISO- International organization for standardization BSI- British Standards Institute BIS- Bureau of Indian Standards. AQC of AAMA Apparel Quality committee of American Apparel Manufacturer's Association.

Grade
The process of assigning a numerical value based on the number, size,and severity of defects observed during a visual inspection; the symbol, number, or letter used for any step in a multistep standard reference scale for a quality characteristic.

Session 5,6
What is Quality Specification Concept of Tolerances
Ref: Quality Assurance for Textiles and ApparelSara J. Kadolph-Chapter 3 and 10

Specifications
Is a precise statement of a set of requirements to be satisfied by a material, product, system or service that indicates the procedures for determining whether each of the requirements is satisfied. Requirements- are non negotiable.they need to be met for the specs to be satisfied.

Specifications
Specs describe requirements- in terms and/or numerical values. Minimum is the least or lowest acceptable value for any given parameter or dimension Tolerance - describes the range of acceptable values. Not all specs will include tolerances

Types of specifications
Open- allows for consideration of multiple vendors and includes a description of the character and /or performance desired in the product or material to be purchased. Closed specifies the exact material, component, or product by manufacturer or vendor and includes style numbers, trade names or other such specific identities.

Application of specifications.
1. Used to describe the materials ,procedures, dimensions and performance for a particular product or style. 2. Reflect the standard- co. standards, costs, customer needs and expectations and implementation abilities. 3. Used as a communication tool- for production, for suppliers and for customer. 4. To negotiate bids and contracts 5. Used for purchasing materials for production 6. Used as a determinant for quality.

SPECIFICATION GUIDELINES FOR PIECE GOODS INSPECTION

*Fabric Yardage / Width *Hand feel / Quality *Color / Print *Fabric Weight *Wash & Dry Shrinkage *Color Fastness * What percent of goods inspected prior to cutting? * Are shade controlled and segregated by lots at storage stage? * Use of a light box? * Spectrophotometer? * What is the light source used? * Is there pre-testing on the shrinkage prior cutting? * How is the pre-testing done? * Records on shade bands?

Garment spec sheets

Specification sheets provide important details to ensure the correct execution of patterns into finished garments. Spec sheets help to produce accurate samples, which improves turnaround time and simplifies communication during all stages of manufacturing and quality control. Spec sheets include detailed technical diagrams, construction notes, finished garment measurements, fabric yields and material and trim details.

Session7,8
Assignment 1- assigned on 20.08.10; To be submitted on 27.8.10; time- 3 hrs(2 sessions) ; marks -20

Assignment 1- 20 marks
Prepare a garment specification sheet for a garment of choice, inspect the garment and record the inspection report in the prescribed format. Individual assignment Criteria of evaluation Selection of garment- 3 marks Specification sheet-7 marks Inspection report 10 marks

Session 9,10
Fabric Inspection ;Defects Testing
Ref:Managing Quality in the apparel IndustryMehta and Bharadwaj-Chapter 2,Pages 14-20 and pg 75-77 and Chapter 3

Fabric- defects
Woven Broken end Broken Pick Coarse end/Pick Color Fly Yarn Double end/double pick End out Mispick Hole Shade Bar Slub Thick and Thin Places

KnittedBarre Birdseye Coarse yarn Dropped stitches Fine yarn Missing Yarn Needle Line Run Tucking Defect .

..

Fabric
Inspection And Grading 4 point system 10 point system Graniteville 78 system

Fabric grading
4 point system Allows max. 4 penalty points to one linear yard 10 point system Allows max.10 points per linear yard Graniteville 78 Max.no.of points per linear yard= fabric width /9 width in inches. Length of defect is counted-can be weft or warp Sensitive to width of fabric

Points for only length wise defects and holes

Warp as well as filling defects carry points

Not sensitive to width of fabric

Total defect points per 100square yards should not exceed 40

Sensitive to width of fabric If no. of penalty points are <the no.of yards of fabric inspected it is first quality fabric

4 point system Size of defects (Inches) 3 inches or less Over 3 but not over 6 Over 6 but not over 9 Over 9 inches Assigned Points 1 2 3 4

All textiles are evaluated on a square yard computation. The formula used to determine the point count level of a roll of fabric is as follows: Total Points x 3,600 = Points per 100 yard2 Inspected Yards x Cuttable Fabric Width (in)
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10 point system Size of Defect (Inches) Warp 1 inch or less 1 to 5 inches 5 to 10 inches 10 to 36 inches Size of Defect (Inches) Weft 1 inch or less 1 to 5 inches 5 inches to half width Large than half width

Assigned Points 1 3 5 10 Assigned Points 1 3 5 10

Division/Season: Fabric Pattern#: Fabric Supplier: Piece Length:

Fabric Check List

Style: Type Roll #:

1)General Appearance (against weaving/dyeing/ printing standard): 2)Construction:Check against hand standard): 3)Width( as specified in contract): 4)Piece length (as per tag and packing list): 5)Design/Pattern and colors/shades (as per approved strike off or lab dip): -Any repeat variation 6)MAJOR DEFECTS
1-Centre to Selvedge variation 2- End to End shading 3-Broken or missing ends/Picks 4-Torn ,Wavy, Folded or Tight Selvedges 5- Coarse Yarn in Warp or Weft 6- Holes 7-Double or multiple ends/picks 8-Loom stop marks 10-Noticeable Shade or filling bars 11-Noticeable Dead Crease mark/line 12-Noticeable Dye Streaks and stains through the roll 13- Bowing or skewing 14- Reed marks 15-Foreigh matter/soiled yarn 16-Neps 17-Oil Stains

________ ________ ________ ________ ________ ________

_________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________

18-----------

________

Gap standards for Piece goods Inspection

Testing
The analysis and evaluation of a material or product to assess its characteristics, quality or performance. Test method- is a definitive procedure for the identification, measurement, and evaluation of one or more qualities, characteristics or properties of a material, product, system or service that produces a test result.

Testing of fabrics
Precision: the degree of agreement within a set of observations or test results obtained by using a test method. Accuracy: the degree of agreement between the true value of the property being tested ( an accepted standard value) and the average of many observations made according to the test method, preferably by many observers. Reliability

Testing conditions
Standard Humidity and temperature conditions to be maintained Relative humidity-65+2% Temperature 21+1oC(70+ 2oF) Min. 4 hrs in standard test conditions to reach equilibrium

Testing of fabrics
Fabric Strength Yarn Count, Yarn Twist, Fabric construction, Fabric weight and width. Yarn Slippage Color fastness- to light, washing, rubbing, sunlight, perspiration, chlorine ,dry cleaning, heat etc. Dimensional Changes In Fabrics Due To Laundering, Drycleaning, Steaming, Pressing Bow and Skewness Fabric Thickness Pilling Abrasion Resistance

Testing of fabrics
Each individual to conduct testing of fabrics in the F&T testing lab and record the following in the log book: 1The test being conducted 2.The standard used 3.The test requirements 4.Method of testing and 5.The instrument used 6. Any special instructions/ conditions for the test.

Session 11-14
Testing at lab

Session 15
Trims Defects
Ref: Mehta and Bharadwaj-Chapter 3

Trims Defects
Sewing threads Imperfections in the yarn Finish Color Package density Winding Yardage

Trims defects -Zippers

To check for Dimensions Locks at ends and tabto be securely attached Color of tape Tape quality- no wrinkling/puckering Fading of color on washing or ironing Deformities due to washing/ironing Kinds of defects Ratcheting Shear Slider distortion Sewing Bottom stop Hump Popping Wrongly placed closures at zip end Chemical degradation Design problems

Trim Defects
Buttons
Clear holes Uniform thickness Color Laundering/ironing/dry cleaning pressures No cracked edges or sharp edges at holes Uniform distance of holes

Buckles
Sharp edges Color/materialappropriate for use

Snap Fasteners
Close properly Metal quality No sharp edges after attaching

Testing of Trims
Zippers
Durability of finish of zippers to laundering Colorfastness of zippers to laundering Colorfastness of zippers to light Colorfastness of zippers to crocking Colorfastness of zippers to laundering Durability of finish of zippers to dry cleaning Resistance of zippers to salt spray (fog) Measuring of zipper dimensions Strength tests of zippers Operability of zippers

Testing of Trims
Buttons
Impact Resistance Shape Uniformity Resistance to Unsnapping - Snap Fasteners

Hook and loop fasteners

peel strength sheer strength shrinkage, color fastness

Testing of Trims
Elastic Resistance to degradation (becoming loose, losing elasticity) due to laundering Elastic Limit Testing

Fusible Interlining
Bond Strength Shrinkage and Stretch Delamination and Strike back

Testing of Trims
Sewing threads
Friction testing Colorfastness test & abrasion resistance Yarn number testing Twist balance Shrinkage Strength and Elongation Twist Evenness Diameter (Thickness)

Mid term