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Color fastness

Colorfastness of printed fabric is less than the color

fastness of yarn dyed and piece dyed fabric and needs to be approved from the buyer at earlier stage. Length wise stripe cannot be printed by hand screen or fladbed automatic screen because the length wise stripes can not be perfectly matched for each screen change.

Wet on Dry
Wet-on-dry is the printing of a second color on top of a

previously printed color when the first color is moderately or fully dry.

Wet on Wet
Wet on wet is the printing of a second color over a first

color that is still wet. The second color is applied immediately after the first, while the fabric is still on the imprint stage of the printing. When the second color goes over the first, the two become mixed and a third color is produced. The third color is referred to as fall on. Print designers can thus create a three-color print with two screen or rollers

Half Tone
A half tone is the gradual shading from light to dark in

the same color of a pattern. Half tones are produced in roller printing by gradually increasing or decreasing the depth of the copper engraving of the roller. In rotary screen prints half tones are produced by increasing or decreasing the density of screen perforations.

Pigment Print
Pigment prints are direct print made with pigments,

this process is called dry printing. Pigment print can be distingusihed from dye print by comparing the stiffness between the a design-printed portion and a non printed portion of the same fabric. Pigment prints are the least costly type of print to produce because they are simple to apply and require the least amount of processing because the usual steaming and washing are not required.

Pigment Print
Pigment produce bright, rich colors, and may be

applied to all textile fibers. Pigment have good to excellent fastness to light and dry cleaning. Print durability can be a cause of concern in case of pigment print, but can be improved with the application of resin and silicone softening treatments in final finishing. Dark shades fade more readily than light or pastel shades.

Pigment Print
Causes stiffening in the printed portion , and is

noticeable in case of the dark color. Crocking fastness not good in case of pigment print especially in case of dark colors.

Wet (dye )Prints

Dry ( Pigment ) Prints

Heat Transfer Prints

Fibers Applies

All fibers : Fiber / dye affinity required Chemical action Roller / screen or block None

All pigments can be applied to all fibers Physical action Roller or Screen Slight to Heavy stiffening Good to excellent

Polyester , nylon and acetate Sublimation action Transfer Paper Slight to Heavy stiffening Good to excellent

Nature of Application Application method Effect on Fabric Hand CF to sunlight

Depends on dye

CF to crocking and Depends on dye Laundering Cost of Printing Highest

Fair in light shades Excellent , poor in deep shades Lowest Second Highest

Special Types of Prints

Blotch Prints
A blotch print is one on which the background color

has been created by printing rather than piece dyeing. Some time blotch prints are designed to imitate more costly discharge or resist print effects. One of the problem with blotch print is that some times the large background color areas of the print are nor covered with the full depth of the color.

Flock Print
Flock printing is a type of printing in which tiny

particles of fiber called fiber flock ( ranging from about 1/10 to inch or 2.5 to 6.4 mm ) are made to adhere to a fabric surface in conformance to a particular design. The process consist of first printing the design onto a fabric with an adhesive rather than a dye or pigment and then exposing the fiber flock to the fabric.

Flock Print
There are two methods of adhering the flock to the adhesive-treated fabric :1. Mechanical Flocking 2. Electrostatic flocking

Mechanical Flock Printing


In mechanical flocking , the fiber is flock is shifted

onto the fabric while fabric is passing in the open width through a flocking chamber. Mechanical beaters cause the fabric to vibrate.

Mechanical Flock Printing

Electrostatic Printing
In electrostatic flocking the flock particles are given an

electrostatic charge , which results in nearly all the fibers being oriented in upright direction when they adhere to the fabric. Electrostatic flocking is slower and more costly , but result in more uniform and denser flock.

Electrostatic Printing

Flock Printing
Rayon and Nylon are the two most widely used fibers

for flock printing. Flock fibers are dyed prior to the application to the fabric. CF to laundering , dry cleaning and laundering can be a cause of concern in case of flock printing.

Warp prints
Warp prints involved printing the warp yarns of a

fabric before they are placed on the loon for weaving. Fabric is then woven with solid color filling generally white Warp prints give the blurred kind of effect Also called shadow printing.

Burn-Out Prints
Burn Out prints involves printing with a chemical

substances that destroy the fiber in the pattern design . Extensively used in case of blended fabric .

Duplex Prints
Duplex prints are fabric on which both side of the

fabric are printed. Interesting effects can be achieved with reversible fabrics.

Engineered Prints
Engineered prints are prints that have two or more

distinct designs , each located in separate area of the fabric and each design is to become a specific part of the garment.

EMBOSSING
Embossing Printing Process

The embossing printing process makes three-dimensional reliefs and designs. It is done by the application of heat and pressure to the substrate.
The dies fit together to squeeze the fibers of the material that is being embossed.
Embossing printing is frequently done using of letter press

machines. Substances such as textiles and metals can be printed onto using the Embossing printing technique as well.

Embossing

Embossing
Embossing Printing is also called Blind Printing or Relief

Printing. Embossing printing technique allows transfer of text or images as a relief onto various substrates including paper, cardboard and metal foils, fabric, wood, and leather. The front side of the print shows the image as a relief, whereas the actual embossing is done on the back side. The embossing printing technique involves raising the area of the image or text on the paper; the image stands out giving a three dimensional effect. This type of printing technique enhances the look of the products but increases the printing cost.

Application of Embossing Printing


Paper Napkins Greeting Cards Textiles Metals Garments Diapers

Embossing
Textile embossing is generally done on smooth surfaces. This is

done by pressing the fabric under high pressure, and at high temperature, in a special backing creating a three dimensional effect giving a unique look to the garment.
Embossing in textiles is mainly used in non wovens such as

napkins, diapers, tissue papers etc. Apart from this it is also used in apparels like T-shirts which gives a very trendy look to the outfit. Additional effects on embossing can be done by decorating the embossed surface with embroidery or screen printing.

Embossing
This is different from the regular engraving or printing in

which plates are pressed against the surface to create an imprint. In embossing the pressing raises the surfaces adding a unique and appealing effect to the fabric. Bleached, dyed, or printed fabrics singed with a preliminary finish and chemically unmodified fabric is used for embossing. Working pressure depends on the quality of the cloth, the embossing design, and the different pressing areas of the design. This is durable, with an average life of 50-60 washings.

Digital Textile Printing ( DTG )


In digital Printing Micro drops of color liquid ink are

applied through tiny nozzles on to the fabric surface. All colors are printed at the same time by separate tiny nozzles. Digital Printing is used primarily for sampling , just in time deliver , and large , custom orders. Inkjet printing is now a slow process because of technical limitations.

Digital Printing
Economical for small orders and sampling before

spending huge amount on roller printing or screen printing. Lead time of sampling can be reduces considerably.

Comparison of Printing Methods

Hand Screen
Important features and Advantages Method for low yardage and Sample . Limited quantity of design Acceptable for all woven and knitted construction. Rapid preparation of screens and rapid pattern changeover possible. Panels can be printed

Hand Screen
Limitation and Disadvantages Slow production Uneconomical for large yardage Uneven print due to manual process

Automatic Screen ( Flat Bed )


Important Features and Advantages Large repeat size. Adaptable to all woven and knitted fabric Rapid changeover of design possible. Best machine registration.

Automatic Screen ( Flat Bed )


Disadvantages Screen preparations and special mounting more costly than for hand screen. Not adaptable to low yardage. Length wise stripes not possible.

Rotary Screen
Important Features and Advantages Over 40 inch repeat size possible , larger than roller printing bit smaller than flat-screen printing. Length wise stripe effect possible. Cleaner and righter colors than on roller prints. Excellent color definitions , but less than with flat screen methods. Rapid changeover of design possible.

Rotary Screen
Disadvantage Half tone design nor as effective as roller printing. Screens do not last as long as rollers.

Roller Printing
Important Features and Advantages Require long production runs of same pattern. Can produce halftone and fall on effect. Can print woven fabrics Knitted fabrics require special handling.

Roller Printing
Limitations and Disadvantages Not economical for small orders. Long production delay in pattern changeover. Engraving is expensive.

Heat Transfer
Important Features and Advantages Produce bright , sharp clear fine-line designs. Can print cut garments parts and small items Adaptable to long and short yardage runs. Rapid pattern changeover possible. Simple , low investment installation possible. Steamers , washers , dryers etc not required ( no post treatment) Fewest second quality pieces of all print processes.

Heat Transfer
Limitations and Disadvantages Limited to fabrics having minimum 50% manufactured fibers. 100% cellulosic and protein fibers cannot be printed.

Digital
Important Features and Advantages Photographic detail. Repeat can be endless. Quick color range. Size range easily modified. Unique , one-of-a kind runs. Little fabric waste.

Digital
Disadvantages Limited production due to slow speed. Expensive inks. Cannot handle specialty inks like metallic or glitter.

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