PRODUCT ANALYSIS AND DEVELOPEMENT

Presented by Parul Vashist Divya rani DFT Sem VII

Proceeding of the Product

Visual analysis of the garment

Development of spec sheet

Development of cost sheet

Pattern making Development of process flow chart Development of test fit

Checking deviations Development of garment on actual fabric Fabric Sourcing Development of fabric spec sheet

Analysis of fabrics

FRONT VIEW

BACK VIEW

Sketch of the Product

FRONT

BACK

Garment components

Collar 2 pcs Front panel 1 2 pcs Front panel 2 2 pcs Back panel 1 2pcs Back panel 2 1pc Gathering panels 5 Yoke 1pc Piping joint at armhole 2pcs

Trims Main label

Buttons

Lace

Specification Sheet

Bill of materials

Process flow

Operation Breakdown
SL. NO
1.

PANEL

OPERATION
Pin tuck making on both front panels

SEAM

SEAM

STITCH MACHINE NEEDLE

TYPE
FRONT
-

DIAGRAM
-

TYPE
Class 301

USED
SNLS

SYSTEM
DB*1

2.

Lace attachment on both front panels

Class 301

SNLS

DB*1

3.

Buttonhole placket Superimpos attaching ed Lap fell

Class 301

SNLS

DB*1

4.

Attaching gathered panel

Class 301

SNLS

DB*1

5.

Button placket making

Super imposed Lap fell

Class 301

SNLS

DB*1

6.

Attaching gathered panel

Class 301

SNLS

DB*1

7.

Top stitch on both plackets

Superimpos ed

Class 301

SNLS

DB*1

SL. NO
8.

PANEL
BACK

OPERATION

SEAM TYPE

SEAM DIAGRAM

STITCH TYPE
Class 301

MACHINE USED
SNLS

NEEDLE SYSTEM
DB*1

Attaching back panels

Superimpo sed Superimpo sed Superimpo sed Lap fell

9.

Back Yoke attaching

Class 301

SNLS

DB*1

10.

FRONT & BACK

Shoulder attaching Shoulder Top Stitch

Class 301

SNLS

DB*1

11.

Class 301

SNLS

DB*1

12.

gathered panel at collar

Overlock gathered panel

504

3 thread O/L

13.

collar

Attaching
Gathered panel to collar

Lap fell

301

SNLS

DB*1

SL. NO 14.

PANEL Collar & Body

OPERATION

SEAM TYPE

SEAM DIAGRAM

STITCH TYPE
Class 301

MACHINE USED
SNLS

NEEDLE SYSTEM
DB*1

Collar attaching to body

Lap fell

15.

Armhole

Attach piping to Superimpo armhole & then close sed

Class 301

SNLS

DB*1

16.

Side seam closing

superimpo sed -

Class 301

SNLS

DB*1
Db*5, db*17

17.

Button attaching

Button

Button

attaching

attaching
machine

18.

Button hole making

Button hole machine

19.

Bottom Hemming

Bottom hemming

301

SNLS

DB*1

Measurements of main garment

S/no 1 2

FRONT NECK CIRCUMFERENCE COLLAR a.Height at CB c.Length SHOULDER LENGTH ACROSS SHOULDER SHOULDER SLOPE LENGTH* a. CF/CB b. Side ACROSS CHEST WAIST ARMHOLE CIRCUMFERENCE PLACKET a. Length b. Width GATHERING a. @ front placket b.@ front panel C. @ collar BOTTOM

BACK

TOTAL 16

7/8 15 4 13 3 22 27 17 14 17 15 22 7/8 22 23 15 20 (half front & back)

3 4 5 4

5 6 7 8

11

Measurements of stitched garment

S/no 1 2

FRONT NECK CIRCUMFERENCE COLLAR a.Height at CB c.Length SHOULDER LENGTH ACROSS SHOULDER SHOULDER SLOPE LENGTH* a. CF/CB b. Side ACROSS CHEST WAIST ARMHOLE CIRCUMFERENCE PLACKET a. Length b. Width GATHERING a. @ front placket b.@ front panel C. @ collar BOTTOM

BACK

TOTAL 18

7/8 17 3 12 3 20 26 16 14 17 16 20 7/8 22 20 17 20 (half front & back)

3 4 5 4

5 6 7 8

11

Tests performed

Weave

Threads/ inch
GSM Fiber composition Yarn count Tearing Strength Thread twist Crease recovery

Stiffness

WEAVE

THREADS / INCH

GSM

FIBRE COMPOSITION YARN COUNT STIFFNESS TEST

TEARING STRENGTH

DRAPABILITY THREAD TWIST CREASE RECOVERY

Specimen size =1inch*1inch Equipment used: Pick glass Purpose: To check the weave of any type of fabrics conveniently & accurately Method used: By unraveling of yarns.

Result: Fabric (Original & Procured) Weave: Plain

WEAVE

THREADS / INCH

GSM

FIBRE COMPOSITION YARN COUNT STIFFNESS TEST

TEARING STRENGTH

DRAPABILITY THREAD TWIST CREASE RECOVERY

Equipment used: Pick glass Purpose: To check the pick of any type of fabrics conveniently & accurately. Specimen size:1inch*1inch Original fabric
Sl.No. 1 2 3 Sl.No. 1 2 3 EPI 63 64 63 EPI 70 71 71 PPI 78 77 79 PPI 60 57 56

Sourced fabric

Average

EPI 63 71

PPI 78 58

Original fabric Sourced fabric

WEAVE

THREADS / INCH

GSM

FIBRE COMPOSITION YARN COUNT STIFFNESS TEST

TEARING STRENGTH

DRAPABILITY THREAD TWIST CREASE RECOVERY

Equipment used: Weighing Balance Purpose: To determine GSM of any type of fabrics. Sample size: 10 cms X 10 cms Fabric (Original)
Sample No. 1 2 Reading 1 105 up 106 down 114 up 114 down Reading 2 106 up 106 down 113 up 114 down Reading 3 107 up 106 down 114 up 114 down

Weighing balance
Average 106 114

GSM of original fabric : 110 gm per sq. mtr. Fabric (Procured)

Sample No.
1 2

Reading 1
104 up 103 down 105 up 106 down

Reading 2
104 up 102 down 106 up 105 down

Reading 3
104 up 103 down 105 up 105 down

Average
104 105

GSM of original fabric : 105 gm per sq. mtr

WEAVE

THREADS / INCH

GSM

FIBRE COMPOSITION YARN COUNT STIFFNESS TEST

TEARING STRENGTH

DRAPABILITY THREAD TWIST CREASE RECOVERY

Burning test Instrument used: matchstick Sample size- 10 cm*2cm Fabric (Original)
Fibre Viscose rayon In Flame Burns Quickly with no flame Smell Burning Paper Residue Soft grey ash

Fabric (Procured)
Fibre In Flame Smell Residue

Cotton polyester

Burns with flame

Burning Paper

Greyish black Ash

WEAVE

THREADS / INCH

GSM

FIBRE COMPOSITION YARN COUNT TEARING STRENGTH STIFFNESS TEST

DRAPABILITY THREAD TWIST CREASE RECOVERY

Instrument used: Beesley Balance Sample size- Threads of length 5.2 cm Fabric (Original)

Yarn count(warp)
Sl.No.c 1 2 3 4 5 Yarn count 30 30 29 30 29

Yarn count(weft) :
Sl.No. 1 2 3 4 5 Yarn Count 33 34 35 34 33

Thus,

Average.

Warp direction 30

Weft direction 34

WEAVE

THREADS / INCH

GSM

FIBRE COMPOSITION YARN YARN COUNT COUNT STIFFNESS TEST

TEARING STRENGTH

DRAPABILITY THREAD TWIST CREASE RECOVERY

Fabric (Procured)

Yarn count(warp)
Sl.No.c Yarn count

Yarn count(weft) :
Sl.No. 1 2 3 4 5 Yarn Count 29 30 31 29 29

1 2
3 4 5

37 36
37 35 37

Thus,
Average. Warp direction 37 Weft direction 30

WEAVE

THREADS / INCH

GSM

FIBRE COMPOSITION YARN COUNT STIFFNESS TEST

TEARING STRENGTH

DRAPABILITY THREAD TWIST CREASE RECOVERY

Instrument used: Elmendorf Tearing Strength Tester Fabric (Original)

Warp Sample 1 Sample 2 Average 2560 2368 2464 Weft 2240 2368 2304

Fabric (Original)
Warp Sample 1 Sample 2 Average 4160 4480 4320 Weft 3520 3776 3648

WEAVE

THREADS / INCH

GSM

FIBRE COMPOSITION YARN COUNT STIFFNESS TEST

TEARING STRENGTH

DRAPABILITY THREAD TWIST CREASE RECOVERY

Instrument used : Thread twist tester Sample size : 2 inches Readings: Fabrc (Original)
Sl.No. Warp Reading Weft Reading

1. 2 3 4 5

30

33 34 35 33 34

30 29 30 29

Formula used: Thread twist=(Metre reading)/2*test length Result

Thread twist Warp 7.5 Weft 8.5

WEAVE

THREADS / INCH

GSM

FIBRE COMPOSITION YARN COUNT STIFFNESS TEST

TEARING STRENGTH

DRAPABILITY THREAD TWIST CREASE RECOVERY

Readings: Fabric (Procured)

Sl.No. Warp Reading Weft Reading

1. 2 3 4 5

37 36 37 35 37

29 30 31 29 29

Formula used: Thread twist=(Metre reading)/2*test length Result

Thread twist Warp 9.25 Weft 7.5

WEAVE

THREADS / INCH

GSM

FIBRE COMPOSITION YARN COUNT STIFFNESS TEST

TEARING STRENGTH

DRAPABILITY THREAD TWIST CREASE RECOVERY

Instrument used: Crease recovery tester Specimen size: 0.5" x 1.5 Time of creasing : 5 minutes Load Applied : 2 kg Fabric (Original) Result (angle of recovery):
Angle of recovery Warp(in degrees) 90
89 88 87 89

Weft (in degrees) 72

78 79 75 76 76

Average

88.6

WEAVE

THREADS / INCH

GSM

FIBRE COMPOSITION YARN COUNT STIFFNESS TEST

TEARING STRENGTH

DRAPABILITY THREAD TWIST CREASE RECOVERY SEAM STRENGTH

Fabric (Procured) Result (angle of recovery):

Angle of recovery Warp(in degrees) 79 80 75 78 81 Weft (in degrees) 76 79 82 83 80 80

Average

78.6

WEAVE

THREADS / INCH

GSM

FIBRE COMPOSITION YARN COUNT STIFFNESS TEST

TEARING STRENGTH

DRAPABILITY THREAD THREADTWIST TWIST CREASE RECOVERY SEAM STRENGTH

Instrument used: Shirley Stiffness tester Specimen size: 16 * 2 cm

Readings Warp
Sl.No. 1st 2nd 3rd Mean Readin Readin Readin g g g 1.6 1.8 1.7 1.7 1.5 1.8 1.6 1.9 1.7 1.7 1.6 1.8 Sl.No. 1st Readin g 1.2 1.6 1.3

Weft
2nd Readin g 1.7 1.7 1.6 3rd Readin g 1.5 1.7 1.7 Mean

1 2 3

1 2 3

1.5 1.7 1.6

Result:
mean 1 warp 1.7 weft 1.6

WEAVE

THREADS / INCH

GSM

FIBRE COMPOSITION YARN COUNT STIFFNESS TEST

TEARING STRENGTH

DRAPABILITY THREAD TWIST CREASE RECOVERY

Instrument used: Shirley Stiffness tester Specimen size: 16 * 2 cm

Readings Warp
Sl.No. 1st Readi ng 1.8 2.0 2.1 2nd Readi ng 1.9 1.8 1.9 3rd Readi ng 1.8 1.9 1.8 Mean Sl.No.

Weft
1st Readi ng 1.6 1.8 1.7 2nd Readi ng 1.7 2.1 1.9 3rd Readi ng 1.6 2.2 1.8 Mean

1 2 3

1.8 1.9 2.0

1 2 3

1.6 2.0 1.8

Result
Mean Warp 1.9 Weft 1.8

Cost sheet (per garment)

DATE/SEASON STYLE STYLE NUMBER FABRIC SPRING/SUMMER 2012 CASUAL WOMEN W321 VISCOSE RAYON

ITEMS FABRIC SEWING THREAD BRAND LABEL LACE HANGER COST OF MATERIAL

CONSUMPTION 1.25 m 150 m 1 1 1

PRICE/UNIT 350 Rs./m 0.01 Rs./m 0.05 Rs. 0.05 Rs. 10 Rs.

PRICE Rs. 437.5 Rs. 1.50 Rs. 0.05 Rs. 0.05 Rs. 10 Rs.449.1

Cost sheet (per garment)

PRODUCTION CUTTING SEWING FUSING PRESSING FINISHING INSPECTION PACKING COST OF PRODUCTION MINUTES 15 60 2 2 5 5 2 RATE 2 1.5 1 1 2 4 5 PRICE Rs. 30 Rs. 90 Rs. 2 Rs. 2 Rs. 10 Rs. 20 Rs. 10 Rs. 164

Thus, Total Cost of Manufacturing = Cost of Material +Cost of Production = Rs. (449.1+164) = Rs. 613.1 If we assume the total overhead to be 100% of the cost of manufacturing then, OVERHEAD = 100% of 613.1 = Rs. 6.131 TOTAL COST = Manufacturing Cost + Overhead= Rs. (613.1 + 6.131)= Rs. 619.23 Now if we assume the profit to be Rs. 100 then, TOTAL SELLING PRICE = MANUFACTURING COST + PROFIT= Rs. (619.23 + 100)~ Rs. 719.23

Thank you