YARN NUMBERING SYSTEM

YM - 2011

COUNT
A specific number relative indicator of fineness or linear density of yarn. Yarn count is also called as yarn number. Two main groups for its measurement:

Indirect or reciprocal yarn numbering system

(higher number ~ fine yarn i.e., light in weight)

Direct yarn numbering system

(higher number ~ coarser yarn i.e., heavy in weight)

Usually staple spun yarns are defined by indirect while direct system is used for synthetic filaments, but exceptions are there

INDIRECT YARN NUMBERING SYSTEM

Yarn number signifies the number of units of a standard length that are necessary to balance one unit of standard weight.

There are different yarn numbering standards depending upon the system on which a staple yarn is spun. If yarn is spun on cotton system then cotton numbering system (Ne) is used and if yarn spun on worsted system then worsted number system (Nw) is used, irrespective of fiber type used.

INDIRECT YARN NUMBERING SYSTEM (CONT..)

Spinning system Cotton Woolen Woolen Worsted All Standard length Standard weight 840 yards (yd) 1600 yards 300 yards 560 yards 1000 meters (m) 1 pound (lb) 1 pound 1 pound 1 pound 1 kilogram (kg) Numbering system common name Cotton or English (Ne) Woolen run(Nar) Woolen cut (Nar) Worsted (Nw) Metric (Nm)

Cotton count (Ne) for single yarn is written as: #/1 or #s Worsted count (Nw) for single is written as the reciprocal as: 1/#

INDIRECT YARN NUMBERING SYSTEM (CONT..)

Yarn Length number of test ing yarn system Cotton Cotton Cotton Woolen Woolen 840 yd Weight of test yarn 1 lb Calculation using standard Yarn for a count of 1 (Actual number Standard) 840 yd/lb 1 lb/840 yd = 12600 yd/lb 1 lb/840 yd = 12600 yd/0.5 lb 1 lb/840 yd = 1600 yd/lb 1 lb/1600 yd = 3200 yd/lb 1 lb/1600 yd = 560 yd/lb 1 lb/560 yd = 1680 yd/lb 1 lb/560 yd = 1000 m/kg 1 kg/1000 m = 2000 m/0.6kg 1 kg/1000 m = 1s Ne 15s Ne 30s Ne 1 Nar 2 Nar 1/1 Nw 1/3 Nw 1 Nm 33.33 Nm

12600 yd 1 lb 12600 yd 0.5 lb 1600 yd 3200 yd 1 lb 1 lb 1 lb 1 lb 1 kg 0.6 kg

Worsted 560 yd Worsted 1680 yd Metric Metric 1000 m 20000 m

INDIRECT YARN NUMBERING SYSTEM (CONT..)

Yarn numbering system Count of yarn to be twisted Number of strands (plies) twisted together 2 3 2 2 3 2 Yarn number

20/1 or 20s Cotton 15/1 or 15s 15/3 1/20 Worsted 1/15 3/15

20/2 15/3 15/3/2 2/20 3/15 2/3/15

DIRECT YARN NUMBERING SYSTEM

Yarn number signifies the number of units of standard weight that are necessary to balance one unit of standard length.

Indirect system used two different standards:

Tex Denier

Tex is recognized as world standard yarn numbering system.

DIRECT YARN NUMBERING SYSTEM (CONT)

Yarn numbering system Denier Tex Standard weight 1 gram (g) 1 gram Standard length 9000 meters (m) 1000 meters

Decitex (Grex)

1 gram

10000 meters

DIRECT YARN NUMBERING SYSTEM (CONT...)

Yarn Weight number of test ing yarn system Denier Denier Denier Tex Tex Tex Tex 1g 100 g 200 g 1g 100 g 100 g 200 g Length of test yarn 9000 m 9000 m 12000 m 1000 m 1000 m 9000 m 12000 m Calculation using standard for a count of 1 (Actual Standard) 1 g/9000 m 9000 m/g = 100 g/9000 m 9000 m/g = Yarn number

1 Denier 100 Denier

200 g/12000 m 9000 m/g = 150 Denier 1 g/1000 m 1000 m/g = 100 g/1000 m 1000 m/g = 100 g/9000 m 1000 m/g = 1 Tex 100 Tex 11.11 Tex

200 g/12000 m 1000 m/g = 16.67 Tex

INTER CONVERSION OF NUMBERING SYSTEM

Yarn Number System Symbolic Unit of Abbreviat Length ion Unit of Mass Unit of Yarn Count Constant for Conversi on to Tex Values 590.5 1654.0 885.8 1000.0

Cotton Count Woolen (cut) Worsted Metric

Ne Nac Nw Nm

840 yd 300 yd 560 yd 1 km

1 lb 1 lb 1 lb 1 kg

840 yd/lb 300 yd/lb 560 yd/lb 1 km/kg

For example:

INTER CONVERSION OF NUMBERING SYSTEM

Yarn Number System Symbolic Unit of Abbreviat Length ion Unit of Mass Unit of Yarn Count Multiplyi ng Factor Yarn Number to Tex --0.1111

Tex Denier

Tt D

1000 m 9000 m

1g 1g

g/km g/9000 m

DRAFT
The reduction of weight per unit length is known as draft. The fiber strand between two pairs of rollers is stretched due to difference in surface speeds of both pairs. In roller drafting technique, the front pair of roller always moves at a faster speed than the back pair, therefore draft is defined as,

Draft =

DRAFT (CONT)
As the surface speed of front roller is always greater than the surface speed of back roller, therefore draft is always greater than 1. (if in any case, S.S of F.R = S.S of B.R, no drafting will be achieved; If, S.S of F.R < S.S of B.R, negative drafting will be achieved and the material being drafted will get accumulated in between the two pairs of rollers)

TYPES OF DRAFT

i.
ii.

There are two types of drafting; Dispersion drafting Roller drafting

- DISPERSION DRAFTING

The type of drafting in which the material attains an irregular and dispersed form is called dispersion drafting. Dispersion drafting mainly performs opening and cleaning actions. Straightening and parallelization are also observed but to a short extent. Dispersion drafting takes place in blowroom, i.e., scutcher and card machine.

II

- ROLLER DRAFTING

The type of drafting in which a minimum of two pairs of rollers are used to keep the material in a regular form, is called roller drafting. E.g., the regular form may be sliver, roving etc Roller drafting mainly performs straightening and parallelization of fibers. Opening and cleaning are not usually concerned in roller drafting. Roller drafting takes places on drawing frame, simplex and ring spinning frame.