SKIN CARE

TRAINING Alain KHAIAT, Ph. D. Vice President R&D Asia Pacific

1

TRAINING CONTENT
Skin physiology Cosmetic functions:
mechanism ingredients used performance assessment

Skin
Is the external barrier of the body, both physical and immunological Is the mirror of the state of health of the body

Skin plays an essential role both in the aesthetic and health field.
3

SKIN PHYSIOLOGY
The skin is the outer most layer of the body. It is constituted of 2 layers : epidermis dermis which sit on the fat layer around the muscles.

EPIDERMIS
The stratum corneum made essentially of dead cells is exfoliating. The space between the cells constitutes the intercellular cement.

DERMIS
The dermis is where the collagen and elastin fibers are. These fibers are responsible for the skin structure and elasticity. They are degraded by enzymes called collagenase and elastase which belong to the class of Matrix Metallo Proteases or MMP.
8

OIL PRODUCTION
Oil is produced in the sebaceous gland , production is stimulated by hormones

Oil flows into the hair follicle then onto the

skin surface
9

Oil Production

Normal hair follicle where sebum empties onto skin surface through follicle opening
10

COMEDONES
Whiteheads are closed comedones. The obstructed follicle prevents oil flow and provides an oil reservoir for bacterial growth. They lead to inflammation Blackheads are open comedones (follicle obstruction). The color is melanin and oxidized lipids, not dirt. The content is firm and dilates the follicle, blackheads are not inflammatory
11

COMEDONES
Whiteheads or closed comedones stays beneath the skin. Slightly raised, light coloured lesion Caused by build up of debris ( cells + sebum) within follicle

Blackheads or open comedones a whitehead becomes a blackhead when it enlarges until a dark plug protrudes through the skin surface * Both whiteheads and blackheads may stay on the skin for a long time. * Whiteheads and Blackheads are noninflammatory

12

SOLAR SPECTRUM

13

UVB DAMAGE
UVB impact on DNA in the cell creating damages which may lead to cancer P53 gene codes for a protein that allows repair of the DNA or kill the cell if repair is not possible: sunburn cells

14

UVA DAMAGE
UVA acts through an oxidative stress, forming free radicals (reactive oxygen species) that will damage the DNA Reactive oxygen species create damages leading to cancer Pigment production is the defense mechanism
15

TRAINING CONTENT
Skin physiology Cosmetic functions:
mechanism ingredients used performance assessment

16

COSMETICS
DEFINITION :
Products applied on the skin, hair, teeth or teguments in order to : beautify perfume cleanse promote attractiveness alter the appearance

17

COSMETICS : FUNCTIONS
Cleansing Moisturizing UV protection Aging - Wrinkle Acne & Oily skin Pigmentation
18

CLEANSING
Soap : high pH, low rinsability, high irritation
Some soap have high rinsability, low irritation

Cream cleanser / Facial wash :

rinse off : detergent-based, neutral pH, irritation depends on detergent type and concentration tissue off : leave on, emulsion-based, less fresh clean feel

19

RINSABILITY
Measured by Fourrier Transform Infra Red or FTIR : scanning of the skin before

application and after rinsing of a cleanser. The difference is representative of the quantity of product left on the skin.
Digital imaging with proper light allows also to evaluate rinsability
20

IRRITATION
Patch test Chromameter (red color) Trans epidermal water loss : TEWL

21

CLEANSER FORMULA
A typical cleanser formula consists of :
detergent 10 - 15 % foam booster 0 - 2% preservative < 1 % fragrance 0 - 1% water Qs 100 %

22

CLEANSER FORMULA
Surfactants : usually combinations are used to enhance lathering and reduce irritation. SLS is to be avoided, it strips the skin of its lipids contributing to irritation. Preservatives : allergy potential of formaldehyde donors. Fragrance : known allergens (like Peru Balsam or Musk Ambrette) have been banned. It is important for the fragrance to meet IFRA guidelines
23

MOISTURIZING
Water, like air or light, is essential to life Moisturization is a womans main

expectation from a cosmetic product

Dermatologists face dry skin condition every day : physiological, pathological (ichthyosis), therapeutic (PUVA, retinoids)
24

WHERE IS THE WATER ?

50% is intracellular 15% is extracellular 5% is plasmatic 30% is in the sweat glands

25

MECHANISMS OF REGULATION
Hydration through deeper layers Loss through evaporation Moisture retaining ability of the stratum corneum, dependent on :
Hydro Lipido Proteic film (HLP) Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) integrity of intercellular cement
26

HLP FILM
Originates from sebum and sweat secretions Composed of :
water ions amino acids urea - triglycerides - cholesterol free & esterified - squalene - fatty acids - waxes

27

NMF
Amino acids Urocanic acid Pyrollidone carboxylic acid : PCA Electrolytes Sugars

28

INTERCELLULAR CEMENT
Ceramides ( sphingolipides ) Fatty acids ( Linoleic acid ) Cholesterol ( free & esters )

29

MOISTURIZING INGREDIENTS
Occlusive agents Structural lipids Hydrophilic film forming agents Humectants NMF AHA
30

OCCLUSIVE AGENTS
Vaseline, paraffin Waxes of animal or plant origin Some silicone oils or waxes Some vegetable oil (sweet almond) Some fatty esters (isopropyl myristate) Fatty alcohols
31

older technique, often comedogenic

STRUCTURAL LIPIDS
Essential Fatty Acids (EFA : linoleic, linolenic acids) Poly unsaturated fatty acids (PUFA : EPA, DHA) Ceramides or pseudo ceramides Cholesterol

32

HYDROPHILIC FILM FORMING AGENTS

GAG : glycosaminoglycans like Hyaluronic acid or chondroitin sulfates Collagen Proteins Chitin or Chitosan

33

HUMECTANTS
Glycerin Propylene Glycol or Butylene Glycol Sugars

34

NMF
PCA Urea (below 10 %) Amino Acids or hydrolyzed protein

35

AHA
At low concentration (< 2 % ) AHA are moisturizing agents by creating hydrogen bonds between the protein chains. The most common are : glycolic acid lactic acid citric acid malic acid
36

PERFORMANCE ASSESSMENT
FTIR :the ratio of amide I to amide II peaks is

function of the skin hydration

NMR : nuclear magnetic resonance TEWL : trans epidermal water loss Capacitance (Corneometer) Conductance (Skicon)
37

FORMULATION
Typically they are oil in water emulsions :
water propylene glycol : penetration enhancer it becomes irritating above 5% humectants, film forming agents, AHA, NMF emulsifiers : could contribute to irritation, concentration to be kept to a minimum oils, fatty esters : some are comedogenic
38

UV PROTECTION
Two types of filters are used : chemical mineral

39

SOLAR SPECTRUM

40

CHEMICAL FILTERS
Limited spectrum, highly regulated Most common filters :
cinnamates (UVB) PABA (UVB) Oxybenzone (UVA) Avobenzone (UVA)

41

MINERAL FILTERS
Broad spectrum, filtering capacity function of size, influence on product texture Most common filters :
TiO2 ZnO

42

PERFORMANCE ASSESSEMENT
SPF measurement in vivo : it is the ratio of the minimum erythemal dose with and without protection ( relates only to UVB protection ) in vitro measurements :
Diffey method spectrophotometric absorption method
43

AGING : INTRINSIC
Program theory : each cell contains a clock which control the number of multiplication Error theory : occurrence of errors in the replication which eventually lead to cell death Control theory : cells function is remotely controlled by secretions ( hormones )
44

AGING : EXTRINSIC
Sun : UVA / UVB / IR Psycho social factors : overwork, stress Dietary factors : insufficient water supply, vitamin deficiency, alcohol, smoking Iatrogenic factors : corticosteroids, ionizing radiation, diuretics Pathological factors : genodermatose, acrogenia Hormonal factor : menopause

45

MANIFESTATIONS OF SKIN AGING

Epidermis :
reduction in cell renewal rate thickening of stratum corneum decrease in barrier efficiency : increase in TEWL and hyperkeratosis ridges are flattened out and intercellular spaces enlarged pigmentation problems : actinic lentigines decrease in skin immune system
46

MANIFESTATIONS OF SKIN AGING

Sebaceous glands :
reduction in sebum secretion (hormones influenced)

Sweat glands :
less active

HLP film :
thinning of film means less protective barrier
47

MANIFESTATION OF SKIN AGING

Dermis :
destruction of collagen and elastin fibers network proteoglycans and glycoproteins are reduced increase in elastin synthesis : elastosis

48

WRINKLES
Expression lines :
they are the first manifestation due to constant creasing of the face accentuated by environmental factors they appear around the eyes (crows feet), the nose and mouth (naso-labial fold), forehead (frown lines)

49

WRINKLES
Gravity lines :
skin and muscle structure become slack and droops downwards subcutaneous tissues tend to sag flabby cheeks, double chin, bags under the eyes and drooping eyelids

50

WRINKLES
Elastosis wrinkles :
due to UV radiation, the epidermis is injured (free radicals), the fibroblasts in the dermis are over-active and abnormal deposits of elastin occur

51

ANTI AGING : PREVENTION

Protective agents :
sun protection anti free radicals : SOD, Se, Si, Vit. E, Vit. C, carotenoids, flavonoids, -orizanol

Nourishing agents
vitamins : A (esters), B5 (panthenol), C, E, EFA (linoleic & linolenic acids), PUFA
52

ANTI AGE : PREVENTION

Moisturizing agents Metabolism activators :
unsaponifiable lipids (phytosterols) plant extracts (Centella asiatica, Ginseng) microalgae extracts Bacteria, fungal or yeast extracts

53

ANTI AGING : PREVENTION

Conditioning agents :
anti MMP (elastase, collagenase) hyaluronic acid collagen, elastin (hydrolyzed) nucleic acids (DNA, RNA)

54

ANTI AGING : REPARATION

Retinol : transformed into the skin in retinoic acid, it has its positive properties without the irritation AHAs work by reducing the corneocytes cohesion, increasing desquamation (cell renewal), hydration and plasticity Vitamin C micro circulation activators : plant extracts
55

PERFORMANCE ASSESSMENT
Cutaneous relief :
imprint techniques : micro depressionary network, profilometry macrophotography : visible, UV light confocal microscopy biopsy

Cell renewal :
use of a dye : danzyl chloride or dihydroxy acetone (DHA)
56

PERFORMANCE ASSESSEMENT
Alternative methods :
used to determine the activity of ingredients on molecules, cell cultures or skin replica

Physiological parameters :
hydration elasticity : cutometry, twistometry, balistometry pigmentation : photography, chromameter vascularisation : Laser Doppler Velocimetry

57

COSMETIC ACNE: from physiology to treatment

58

ACNE
95% of the population is affected at one time or another by ACNE ACNE affects 85% of the teenagers:
10% require medical attention: severe acne with 1% difficult to treat 90% have mild acne or cosmetic acne

59

 Puberty : period over which the secondary sexual characters gradually become manifest as the reproductive system develops to full capacity and there is rapid somatic growth.

60

Onset of puberty in girls

Breast development following the increase of estrogen from the ovaries Menstruation

61

Puberty and Adolescence

Adolescence is a difficult period for most people: period of changes
Herd bonding & sexual involvement Adolescence is a particularly bad time to have skin problems, especially on the face or on the extremities
62

Physiological changes in the skin during puberty and adolescence

Increase in sebum production: oily skin and hair Onset of "body odor" Anguish in young men when male-pattern balding begins in the teenage years
63

Ideal skin for girls

Skin should be oil-free with no pimples or spots Plenty of hair on head, but none on face, under the arms or on the legs
puberty makes this ideal image virtually impossible to achieve

64

Acne vulgaris (Pimples)

65

 Acne : a disorder of the pilosebaceous unit, occurs in both sexes but is more distressing to the women, not only because of the cosmetic effect but because of the frequent permanent scarring
66

ACNE

Normal hair follicle where sebum empties onto skin surface through follicle opening
67

Classification of acne
Non-inflammatory lesions: open & closed comedones Inflammatory lesions: papules, pustules, nodules, cysts
68

Pathogenesis of acne
Sebaceous glands hyper-activity

Pilosebaceous duct obstruction

Bacterial colonization and inflammation

69

The cause of acne (1)

The effect of Androgen hormones
Im Androgen

Increases sebum secretion

Hyperkeratinization
70

The cause of acne (2)

The effect of Propionobacterium acnes
We love sebum

Hydrolyzes sebum

Free fatty acids

Inflammatory acne
71

ACNE TREATMENT
Drugs Dermatological Procedures Cosmetics

and/or
Squeeze the pimple

72

DERMATOLOGICAL PROCEDURE
Peeling with drying and keratolytic agents : sulfur, salicylic acid, resorcinol, benzoyl peroxide

73

COSMETICS
Traditionally the anti-acne approach has used drying keratolytic ingredients:
Benzoyl peroxide (5 or 10%) Salicylic acid (0.5 or 2%) Sulfur (~2%)

74

OILY SKIN
Ingredients usually used to reduce shine : clay (bentonite) talc Kaolin

These ingredients will increase oil production

Ingredients used to control oil secretion: Soy/Wheat protein Cedarwood
75

OILY SKIN
Efficacy is measured by : Sebumeter : measure of the absorbance of a tape Sebutape removal of lipids and determination of quantity

76

PIGMENTATION
Melanins are the result of the transformation of Tyrosine into DOPA then Dopaquinone by Tyrosinase in the melanocyte. Melanins are transferred from the melanocyte to the keratinocyte layers

77

Pigmentation Formation Mechanism

1 2 Irritation UV
Variety of Causes Variety of Responses

Inflammatory Response

3 Hormone

KERATINOCYTE (Epidermis)

Tyrosine

Melanin

MELANOCYTE (Basal Layer) Melanosome

Tyrosinase

FIBROBLAST Dermis

78

PIGMENTATION
Ingredients used to decrease pigmentation :
hydroquinone : effective but not safe ascorbic acid derivatives plant extracts : Kojic acid, arbutin, Licorice, Centella, Bayberry extract

Except for Hydroquinone, the skin lightening effect is only visible after several weeks.
79

PIGMENTATION
Efficacy is measured by :
Chromameter : L measure Mexameter : evaluation of melanin and redness Photography : visible, UV with data analysis

80

THANK YOU

81