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Colonial Textiles
The Spanish, English, Dutch & French colonized
the New World France - silk brocades, laces and finer clothes. English- Leather clothing England Thin garments Hemp & Homespun cloths tradition lasted in the 1930s
The Pilgrims (1620) The first settlers of Massachusetts Colony was poor Garments - Doublet and Hose The Puritans (1625) Extravagance was not eliminated but followed all lines of this period Middleclass - farmers, merchants, traders people and craftsmen.
The Manhattan colony Dutch and English Customs - similar to those of the homeland (thrift & optimism)
Men's Costume
The Pilgrim's
Upper body Shirt: long, short-sleeved, off-white linen, with collar Doublet: close fitting, long sleeves, broad padded shoulders, and buttoned front A cloak, lace collar and turned back cuffs & felt hat/cap Older people wore a full-length wool gown
made of linen and wool or soft leather. silk satin or silk velvet breeches worn by the wealthy persons. Secured at the waist with a belt and gathered below the knees with garters tied in a bow
Stockings
knee-length, knitted/tailored of cloth. Knitted stocking - silk, wool or linen (coloured) Tailored stocking - silk, wool or woolen mixtures. held up by garters (fabric or ribbon) some times fringed on the ends
Colours
Whites, blacks, earthy greens, and browns Black was not the predominant color except for on Sunday or formal occasions Shoes low-heel, low cut leather shoes buckles were not worn on shoes Tied at the top of the foot with a ribbon or rosette Gloves and Gauntlets (cuffs are highly embroidered)
The Puritan
Upper body In 1660 the doublet was transformed into the coat large white collar or "playne band," and the turned-back cuffs of linen With the coat came the vest, the cravat, wigs, garters and buckles. The cravat a scarf of white sheer linen & over two yards in length. It was passed twice about the neck and lapped in front. A mental was also worn
Lower body
Breeches, stockings... or hose of dark gray or green wool, fastened to the knee-breeches by ribbon. The tall broad brimmed hat was of black felt These were very expensive and purchased by the very wealthy people Colours Very wealthy-black clothes Common people browns Jewelry few accessories, except for a wedding ring for the few who could afford one.
The Quaker
The Quaker dress (1660-1685),
similar to the French of 1660. Coat was dark brown or plum in color and without trimming of any kind. The full shirt sleeves ended in ruffles which fell over the hand Untrimmed neck cloth of the finest linen
French hat Never adorned with a feather. Hair was cut with a short and fell to the shoulder. Occasionally it was powdered; moreover pre wigs were worn by them
1620-1781
BODY GARMENTS In 1620, loose buttons all down the front was collarless, knee length, large cuffs with full turned up sleeves 1670 straight coat without being shaped in at the waist, mid-thigh length. From waistline, they remained open. Elbow length broad turned-back split cuffs, usually of a different material from the coat. full sleeved shirt gathered to a band, at the wrist from which the ruffles fall over the-hand
horizontal, placed low down and covered with large flaps. In the back the skirts were split in two openings (with buttons and buttonholes) The vest was exposed when the coat was open, and reached to a little below the waist-line. very low large flapped pockets in the coat and vest Men carried, their snuff-boxes, lace handkerchiefs, and silver combs
In 1750 coat without the vest Coats were allowed to remain open,
and the full linen shirt hung over the waist-band of the breeches buttonholes being more for adornment "embroidered with silver and gold thread At the beginning of the last quarter of the seventeenth century the coat was being more and more fitted to the waist. Skirts of the coat enlarged and stiffened.
change in the coat, except in the narrow turned-down collars Coat extending to the knees or a little below, the vest remaining several inches shorter than the coat Fullness in the knee length skirt and more and more shape in at the waist The vest also followed along the same lines, but a few inches shorter than the coat Sleeves were lengthen toward the wrists, and turned back in deep split cuffs. The cuffs were usually held in place by buttons.
and vest were raised considerably higher. Waistcoats were richly ornamented with embroidery
In 1750 1760 closer-fitting skirts to the coats The vest was left unbuttoned a short way down the neck, in order to show the carefully arranged cravat. The vest was considerably shortened, the skirts coming to about mid-thigh Cuffs are much smaller,
general wear the long, loose overcoats coming into fashion turned back cuffs large flat collar Or, the collars overlapping the outer collar could be pulled up around the head and face and buttoned down the front, thus giving protection from the cold. belted and buckled-in at the waist Sometimes a double or triple cape overlapped the shoulders leather and fur coats were still worn, such as "mooseskin," "raccoon-skin. huntsmen wore the "deerskin coats."
BREECHES
In 1620 "full gathered breeches",
appearing in voluminous folds from under the skirts of the long coats and vests 1675 gathered tighter at the knees Fit the leg quite close. "Not tight to the leg, but just full enough for comfort." (full in the seat, and were gathered to a tight waistband) These tight-fitting breeches came down over the knee and were fastened in place by a buckle
four or five in number Outside of the buckles and buttons at the knee, these breeches were not otherwise embellished. As a rule, the breeches matched the coat in color and material; Breeches were commonly made of leather, deerskin or sheepskin, Skin-tight riding breeches were worn until the end of the century.
LINEN
Under the coat and vest the shirt was
worn. Shirts were made ranged from finest linen to coarse cotton, according to the position and purse of the wearer The ruffles of lawn or lace at the wrist. In the early years shirt-sleeve as well as the ruffle appeared from under the great elbow cuffs but later the cuff was brought closer to the wrist, the ruffle alone being exposed
Cravat
Neck-cloth was introduced into America about
the year 1660 In the wearing of these first cravats, the neckcloth passed around the neck and was tied under the chin with "short-spreading ends" Sometimes the ends of the cravat were brought together and fastened at the throat with a ribbon bow
the cravat no longer was gathered into the throat by a ribbon tie. The tie was lengthened and fell freely down the front in two long ends, which carried over the neck-band or the ends were simply knotted with a single tie falling down in two straight ends
fashioned cravat ... It was reported that the French officers, dressing themselves in great haste for the battle, twisted their cravats carelessly round their necks; and in commemoration of the victory achieved by the Mareschal de Luxembourg over the Prince of Orange on that day
attached to the hair bag The beginning the ends of the solitaire were carried around to the front of the neck Later on it was carried at the back
COIFFURES
THE PERUKE THE RAMILLIES WIG PLAITED QUEUE WIG PIGTAILS
STOCKINGS
breeches, fastened above or below the knee with garters, probably bands or ribbons; these were embellished on the outside with bunches of ribbons Stockings could be either worn pulled up over the knee under the breeches or pulled up over the breeches at the knee, then gartered below and rolled above the knee Stockings for dress occasions were decorated at the ankles with gold and silver clocks. Stirrup hose were provided with wide tops were probably used to pull on over the stocking and knees of the breeches to protect them from the boot saddle when riding horseback Knitted homespun stockings, leather stockings, cloth stockings, were worn by men
FOOT-GEAR
1675, shoes still retained
their heels shoe was fastened by strings or ties by buckles With the high-heeled, hightongued shoes the square ending to the toe, was in fashion lasting throughout the first quarter of the eighteenth century. 1720, rounded toe with a large buckle over the instep
everyday costume during this period, but were worn more for riding, traveling, and hunting.
ACCESSORIES
From shoulder-belt the small
sword was suspended The hilt of the sword was often decorated with a large bowknot of ribbons. Muffs, both large and small, fashioned out of either cloth or fur, or cloth edged with fur, were carried by men throughout this period.
Textiles
Textiles were complex as the design may be of an orderly and repetitive bird design on a solid background but no two images were alike Forms and shaded areas began to be used to create a three-dimensional effect An overall image seems geometric, yet its interior details are fluid curving lines
Plain weave (tabby weave), twill weave and satin weave were included Wools, Pima cotton, camelid cotton, linen, silk, feathers as well as blended fabrics such as linseywoolsey, poplin and fustian A few of the other textiles were: broadcloth, flannel, linsey-woolsey, cambric, ticking, and checks Calico was the cotton fabric used to make quilts. Calicos could be plain, printed or painted of many grades and types
Tapestry
Tapestry were woven (weftpatterned) rather than embroidered Camelid wool was mainly used for tepestries
The Pilgrim's
Undergarment A woman's undergarment was a long off-white shortsleeved, linen shirt ribbon-tied at the collar and cuffs and fastened at the front. One or more ankle length waist-fastened petticoats were worn Dress The dress, or gown, consisted of two parts a bodice and skirt Some times separate sleeves, being tied to the bodice. The bodice buttoned all the way down the front. The skirt was ankle length and gathered at the waist
under coif (bonnet) or hat. All times the women and girls wore a felt hats like the men's hats. In the summer they would cool straw hats to shade them from the sun. Their hats were worn over their bonnets
Footwear
Same as the men's shoes - low cut with
rounded toes. Shoe was high but folded back and tied with a ribbon or a rosette. Wedding shoes were made of soft leather; such as pig skin or silk and were decorated with silk embroidery. Jewellery String of beads & gold necklace
The Puritan
gray Turned under and looped back, showing the petticoats of homespun and linseywoolsey Over this was worn the large apron of white linen The large handkerchief was put about the shoulders on going out- of doors The hood made of wool or wool blends was the necessary part of the out door costume Woolen stockings and clogs (shoes) with wooden heel completed the costume
The Manhattan
of England mingled with that of the Hollanders The handsome silks velvets and brocades were seen side by side with the more simple attire of the Dutch The dress consisted of full skirt and pointed bodice Some times second skirt was worn over the first Opened at the front and if trailing was carried over the arm
New Amsterdam
Loose jacket or samare edged with fur
and full skirt over the equally ample petticoat
1650-1777
America was beginning to sense the increasing wealth and prosperity A growing commerce tended to bring different sections of the country together, unifying the ideas in dress and fashion Colonists who visited the homeland, imported ideas to imitate the fashions in a manner becoming their new ideal of national capability. This new national consciousness furnished a stimulus to common desires, and costumes waxed exceeding rich, varied, and showy. Thus, dress tended to be more uniform throughout the country.
sacque This garment, hanging from the shoulders over the large hooped petticoat, passed through various changes The most usual dress was a dress with a long-waisted bodice, which came to a point in front The neck bared by a medium horizontal or round dcolletage (collar) The skirt was full
BODICE
point in front If fastened down the front, the opening was embellished with bow-knots that were known as chelles Border of the chemise appear above the bodice The neck could be covered with a fine scarf or folded kerchief The horizontal, low-cut bodice was often edged with a lace band or a lace collar
front perfectly plain, except where it is relieved by lace ruffle at the opening of the dcolletage
SLEEVES
Elbow sleeves with their accompanying ruffles
remained in fashion throughout the period Full sleeve of the fine chemise, ending in a ruffle of lace
close pleats about the waist Open in the front Loop the skirt up about the hips, holding it in place with knots of ribbon Until the introduction of hoops and panniers, fullness of the skirt gathered up about the hips was further exaggerated Both skirt and petticoat were provided with a train.
more oval Unusually ankle length skirts, especially for everyday wear; while for dress occasions they reached the ground Between 1770 and 1776 the quilted petticoats were as much in favor as were the hooped petticoats of the earlier year
GOWNS
Bodice and skirt are made in
one piece The skirt was hang from the waist and looped back over the hips with "narrow braid and buttons" Round or a square cut neck Open in front Worn over a richly embroidered or laced stomacher
shoulders with great fullness in the back Either open all the way down the front, or about the waist or, closed Some times fit to the figure quite close, with the two pleats hanging down the back, merging from below the waist into the fullness of the hooped skirt Later on the box pleating was sewn to the back of the bodice
POLONAISE GOWN
The body was close fitted to the
tightly laced bodice that came to a point in front Two pleats, or ruffles, came from the back of the neck over the shoulders, from where they fell away into a rounded front Skirt was sometimes looped up or hanged over the hooped petticoat The petticoat, reached to a little above the ankle The hem usually embellished with a wide box pleating
over a stomacher, with a "silk cord through eyelet holes." The gown was cut low, baring the shoulders The neck, was often covered with a folded shawl or fichu of lace.
RIDING COSTUME
The coat was tightly laced at waist,
with skirts
CLOAKS
CAPUCHIN A short cloak made of silk, with a hood attached The cloak had two long points hanging down in front ROCKET Long cloak of about three-quarter length, or longer, with or without a hood attached Some reaches to their feet, some only just below the waist; They are white in the summer, and red in winter Red cloak, called as cardinal, was made out of a woolen material
PELISSE With or without sleeves, when without sleeves, it was termed a cloak
COIFFURES
of wire, or rolled over a high cushion of hair and were powdered A twisted muslin head-dress in the form of a small turban on top of the "creation. Two curls might hang from the back over the shoulders Some times might be brushed up from the sides and the back & front of the head A few curls or puffs were over the ears If natural hair was not sufficient false hair would be added In the top of this coiffure might be placed feathers and plumes
HEAD-COVERINGS
COMMODE Addition of a lace cap, fitting over the back of the head, and trimmed with lace, frills, and ribbon, feature rising in the front Lappets could hang down the back
after 1700 Lappets in the back, which could be either worn hanging down or fastened up
dressed higher, caps also began to grow in height and width 1730-Straw hats with a broad brim and low crown appeared shortly Hats were worn over the small linen cap edged with ruffles, held in place by two long ribbon ties Hats were of every style and shape and form. Hats were worn at every conceivable angle, They were trimmed with artificial flowers and fruit, plumes and feathers, ribbons and laces
SHOES
High-heeled shoes with a round toe were fashionable
up until 1730 Shoes with pointed toes came into style from England cloth slippers were made from silks and damasks Either plain or flowered. By 1760 heels began to be lowered. Both buckles and small rosettes were worn on the instep Clogs were worn in rainy or inclement weather
ACCESSORIES
Long or short gloves of white, black, or purple silk
were very fashionable. Silk or lace mittens i.e. fingerless gloves worn in in summer Aprons were worn in no special size or style, but as fancy suggested Muffs varied in size and material from time to time as fashion dictated
real or artificial flowers at her bosom Real flowers were placed in "bosom bottle." A small cluster of either real or artificial flowers was often worn in the hair Paint, powder, and patches on face were in fashion They carried a fan of ivory or lace and patch-box of enamel, brass, silver, china, or tortoise-shell