DYEING AND PRINTING

WHAT IS DYEING?

The application of color-producing agents to material, usually fibrous or film, in order to impart a degree of color permanence demanded by the projected end use. Dyeing is accomplished by dissolving or dispersing the colorant in a suitable vehicle (usually water) and bringing this system into contact with the material to be dyed.

CAUSES OF OCCURANCE OF DYEING DEFECTS

Imperfections in dyeing process sometimes occur. They may be due to: Imperfections in the yarn Imperfections in the fabric construction Faulty preparation of the fabric before dyeing Poor dye selection

Improper dyeing or post dyeing operations

DYEING DEFECTS

Listed below are the most common dyeing defects: Barre Bleeding Crocking CSV (center to selvedge variation) Frosting Fume fading Migration Off shade

Poor fastness to sunlight, perspiration etc. Shade bar Shading Stained fabrics Stained (unclear) cross dye Streaked fabrics tendering

BARRE:

Description: It is a horizontal shaded band running across the width of the fabric.
Cause: It may be caused by variations in the size of the filling yarn and by difference in tension of either the filling or warp yarns of a woven fabric. Avoidance: It can be avoided with fiber blending and formula adjustment to the correct shade.

BLEEDING:

Description: It is a dye loss in water that may color other items in water. Cause: Its causes are: improper dye selection or poor dye fastness, poor fiber-dye bond, poor washdown (excess dye on fabric). Avoidance: It can be avoided by proper dye selection and a good post dye washing

CROCKING:

Description: It is color loss from rubbing or abrasion. Cause: it may occur due to inadequate washing subsequent to dyeing. Avoidance: It can be avoided by good post dye washing

CSV (CENTER TO SELVEDGE VARIATION)

Description: It refers to variation of shade within the same fabric from centre to selvedge.
Cause: It is caused due to: o Variation in pH o Variation in absorbency: Occurs when uneven desizing takes place. o Variation in nip pressure o Combination of dyes used Avoidance: It can be avoided by checking and maintaining the right amount of Ph.

FROSTING:

Description: in this defect, white areas appear on fabric, seams or hems due to abrasion.
Cause: it may occur due to poor dye penetration into fiber. In blends it may occur due to difference in abrasion resistant property of the fibers. Avoidance: It can be avoided by proper dye selection

FUME FADING:

Description: it is the fading or hue shift when exposed to some atmospheric pollutant.

Cause: it occurs due to dye sensitivity to pollutants.

MIGRATION:

Description: It is the shifting of color to the surrounding area or to an adjacent surface. An e.g. of migration occurs with some red and white striped fabrics when the white closest to the red takes on a pinkish cast.
Cause: It occurs due to poor dye fastness poor fiber-dye bond

Avoidance: It may be avoided by proper dye selection

OFF SHADE:

Description: It refers to a color that does not exactly match the standard or prepared sample. Cause: It may occur due to faulty dye formulation or application, variation in dye lot or evaluation of color match under different lights. Avoidance: It can be avoided by checking and maintain the conditions of the dye bath constant.

SHADING:

Description: it refers to variation in color tone either vertically or horizontally within a piece of fabric, improper temperature setting, improper speed setting, improper dosing of dye chemicals, any defect in RFD (ready for dyeing).
Cause: it may occur due to uneven tension on the fabric for e.g. as may sometimes occur in jig dyeing. Avoidance: It can be avoided by evenly tensioning the fabric, and checking and maintaining the conditions of the dye bath

STAINED FABRIC:

Description: it refers to the discolored cloth accidentally stained during manufacturing. Cause: it may occur due to presence of foreign substance, dirt, grease, oil or sizing residue on the fabric being dyed. Avoidance: It can be avoided by maintaining a clean dye room.

STAINED (UNCLEAR) CROSS DYE:

Description: it occurs in a cross dyed fabric of white and color. The dye of the colored yarns may stain the white one. Cause: this is usually due to poor dye selection and fastness. Avoidance: It can be avoided by proper dye selection.

STREAKED FABRIC:

Description: it indicates either a stain or uneven dyeing. Cause: it is caused due to folds in the fabric during dyeing process. Avoidance: It can be avoided by giving good pre-dyeing treatments, proper dye selection and maintaining proper fabric tension

TENDERING:

Description: in this, fabric becomes weak or sensitive to abrasion.

Cause: it occurs due to poor dye-fiber interaction.

Avoidance: It can be avoided by thoroughly oxidizing the dye within the fiber or after treating the fabric to neutralize the chemical causing tendering.

TAILING :

Definition: When the dyed fabric is hung on clothes line, most of the dye tends to accumulate towards the bottom edges of the hung fabric
Causes: It may be caused due to the improper absorption of the dye by the fibers. Avoidance: It can be avoided by proper selection of dye and fixing agents.

DETECTION OF DYEING DEFECTS

VISUAL INSPECTION

It is the process in which manual inspection is done for the defects like stains, streaks and other defects. The equipments employed are the inspection table and suitable chemical according to the type of dye & fabric to remove the stain & other defects

SPECTROPHOTOMETER

Spectrophotometer is the instruments that measure reflectance from, or the transmittance through, materials as function of the wavelength. This instrument can easily detect a shade variation by detecting the difference in the wavelength of the reflected light.

COLORIMETER

This instrument is designed to measure the depth of the color or the dye.
It is utilized to detect the defect where the dye has not being taken up by the fiber or where the shade or lighter is darker than what required

WHAT IS PRINTING?

Textile printing is a general name for all woven fabrics and the art of ornamenting such fabrics by printing on designs or patterns in color. The application of colorant in definite, repeated patterns to fabric, yarn or sliver. The different methods of printing include hand,screen, automatic screen, rotary screen, roller and heat transfer. Each method can be used to print one or more print types. These include direct, discharge and resist prints.

PRINTING DEFECTS
Listed below are the most common printing defects: Outfitting of Design Pin Holes Colour Fastness Continuous or periodic spots Fails on the synchronism of the printing cylinders Lack of dye due to block pipe or empty container Defective pigment condition in one or more of the used dyes.

Sharpness of print
Creaser Problem Width variation Water Mark Pigment Colour Bleeding Reactive colour bleeding Oil Dropping

OUTFITTING OF DESIGN

Origin : Exposing problem Machine Gear box movement Variation of speed from cloth and blanket

Remedy: Before Delivery the screen should be checked

Before starting the machine gear box is to be checked

PIN HOLES

Origin: From screen and Dyes Chemicals

Remedy: Before Printing the holes need to be closed by brush and liquid (Chemical Paint)

COLOUR FASTNESS

Origin: Colour Chemical standards Remedy : Use of standard colour and chemical

SHARPNESS OF PRINT

Origin: Design
Remedy: Paste and screen problem Paste to be thick , screen thickness needs to be checked

CREASER PROBLEM

Origin : Printing damage Remedy : Required width to be maintained on the stenter Printing guider should function while running the machine

WIDTH VARIATION

Origin : Selvedge damage of cloth Remedy : Grey cloth stitch as per required width. Photocell should function while batching the cloth from senter

WATER MARK

Origin : Blankets Remedy : Check and clean blanket and wash Clean spray pipe holes and remove flupps with brush

PIGMENT COLOUR BLEEDING

Origin : Chemical problem Remedy : Use good quality binder and check in lab

REACTIVE COLOUR BLEEDING

Origin : Water Problem and steaming problem

Remedy : Colour to be developed in required steam pressure Use soft water in washing machine

OIL DROPPING

Origin : Low temperature, unclean chamber and iron rod Remedy : Drier temperature must be 140 C Wash and clean the conveyor

CONTINUOUS OR PERIODIC SPOTS

The development of small adherences of threads or cloth shreds, breaks or unevenness on the fibre, tint drops, etc can give raise to repetitive stains.

FAILS ON THE SYNCHRONISM OF THE PRINTING CYLINDERS

When a slight phase offset appers among the cylinders, the printed areas can overlap or get apart, giving rise to objectionable visual appearance of the result.

LACK OF DYE DUE TO BLOCKED PIPE OR EMPTY CONTAINER

If the dye supply to a cylinder decreases the whole or a part of the design will lack the pattern corresponding to that color. This defect appears in cases where the printing pattern includes small areas for certain colors, which can pass unnoticed ruining 100 of meters of fabric

DEFECTIVE PIGMENT CONDITION IN ONE OR MORE OF THE USED DYES

The colour achieved at the printing does not match exactly the one required by customer order.

Thank You