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BEDAK DAN PEMBERSIH KULIT

Teuku Nanda Saifullah Sulaiman Laboratorium Teknologi Formulasi Fakultas Farmasi UGM

Powder
Powdered cosmetics are generally used to describe :
Face powders, Eye shadows Blushers (pemerah pipi)

Ketika digunakan maka:


Memberikan rasa halus/lembut Absorbency ? Harus melekat dengan baik Mudah digunakan Dapat menutupi bagian yang imperfection (ketidak sempurnaan/cacat) Memberi pancaran cahaya Cukup transparan

Jenis-jenis powder
Face powder
Loose Face Powders Pressed Face Powders/compact powder Cake make-up Liquid powder

Powder Blushers Pressed Powder Eye Shadows

Loose Face Powders


Ketenarannya lebih rendah dibandingkan yang compact powder Bahan yang biasa digunakan sebagai bahan dasar (covering):
Titanium dioksida Zinc oksida Kaolin Magnesium oksida Starch

Sifat masing-masing material?

Opaqueing agent
Talk Rice starch Magnesium stearat Chalk (calcium carbonate) Zinc stearat Titanium dioxide

Absorbency
Colloidal kaolin (aluminium silicate) Starch and modified starches Microcrystalline cellulose Precipitated calcium carbonate Magnesium carbonate

Slip
Easy spreading and application of powder to produce a characteristic a characteric smooth feeling on the skin
Talk

Adhesion
How well the powder will cling to the face
Talk Zinc stearates Magnesium stearates concentration 3-10 %

Colour
Inorganic and organic pigments Water soluble or oil soluble should be avoided, why ? Regulation ?

Perfume
Face powder must be fragrant and pleasant The compatibility of perfume with other constituents of the product must be carefully checked How to add the perfume ?

Formulation
In the manufacturing process all ingredients except the pearls, if required, are combined in a stainless steel ribbon blender. Mixing time can be as long as one or two hours depending on the size of the batch and evenness of the color. The perfume, if required, is slowly sprayed into the batch and blended until homogenous.

Transparent powder
% 80 5 5 10 q.s.

Talk Zinc oxide Zinc stearat Rice starch Perfume, colour

High opacity powder


Talc Zinc oxide Zinc stearate Precipitated chalk Perfume, colour % 30 24 6 40 q.s.

Medium opacity
Talk Rice starch Precipitate chalk Zinc oxide Zinc stearate

% 50 15 15 15 5

Pressed Face Powders


Pressed face powders are more popular than loose powders because of their ease of application and portability. The basic raw materials are the same as loose powder except that one must use a binder to press the cake

The properties of a binder are as follows: provides creaminess to the powder, aids in compression and adhesion, develops colorants, enhances water-resistance If the binder level is too high, it may be difficult to remove Fatty soaps, kaolin, polyethylene, Teflon, synthetic wax, and calcium silicate are some of the binder systems used. Usage levels of binder are between 3% and 10% depending on formulation variables.

Powder Blushers
The attributes of blushers are as follows:
Adds color to the face Can give more dimension to the cheekbones; Harmonizes the face-balance between eye make-upand lipstick; Creates subtle changes in the foundation look when lightly dusted over the face.

Pressed powder blushers are similar to face powder formulations, except that a greater range of color pigments are used. Total pigment concentration ranges from 2% to 10%

Pressed Powder Eye Shadows


Eye shadows in general have the following functions:
Adds color to the face and improves personality Sharpens or softens the eye itself Creates the illusion of depth or brings out deepset eyes Creates light and dark illusions for subtle character changes, and lastly Can be used in wet or dry forms for different illusions.

The technology is similar to other pressed powder products but the permitted color range is limited. In the United States, the only synthetic organic pigments, which may be used in eye products are FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Blue #1, FD&C Yellow #5, and Green #5. Carmine N.F. is the only natural organic pigment allowed and all of the inorganic pigments and a wide range of pearls may be used. Preservation is very important in eye make-up products.

Problems of poor adherence to the skin, color matching, and creasing in the eyelid is common when the binder formulation is ineffective with the type and level of pearls used.

Quality Assurance on Powder Products


Color Bulk density: Penetration and drop tests:
A penetrometer is used to determine the accuracy of the pressure used during filling. The drop test is designed to test the physical strength of the cake

Glazing (pelapisan) Payoff


Payoff must be sufficient and the powder should spread evenly without losing adhesion to the skin.

Skin cleansing are products that clean and refresh the skin by removing soil or dirty materials to help keep the skins physiological condition normal. Most of the common cleansing products contain a relatively high concentration of surfactants, and is applied with water to make foam before washing off thoroughly.

Factors that rule the quality of skin cleansing products:


Ease of quick rinse After-feeling Refreshed Moist feelings

Solvent-type is mainly used to remove oily cosmetics applied to the skin. This type is further categorized to cleansing creams, lotions, liquids, or gels.

Formulation