FASH 15 textiles yarn classification

yarns
contribute significantly to fabric and product performance selection affects the fabrics hand, appearance, drape, durability, comfort & many other areas of performance

fiber length
spun yarncomposed of short-staple fibers that are twisted or otherwise bonded together; fuzzy yarn with protruding ends filament yarncomposed of long fibers grouped together or slightly twisted smooth filament yarnsstraight, almost parallel fibers textured-bulk-filament yarnsuniformly bulky

yarn twist
twist spiral arrangement of fibers around yarns axis produced by rotating one end while holding the other stationary binds fibers together & contributes to strength Specified by number of turns per unit lengthturns per inch (tpi) or turns per meter (tpm) direction

yarn twist
amount of twist low twistused to maintain integrity within smooth, multi-filament yarns; 1-2 turns per inch napping twistlofty spun yarns used in filling yarns of napped fabrics average twistmost common for staple fiber yarns; most durable spun yarns hard twistharsher hand & more turns per inch crepe yarnshighest tpi; 40-80; twist & kink when removed from fabric

yarn size
yarn numbersize or fineness filament yarnsweight per unit length spun yarnslength per unit weight; generally the finer the yarn, the larger the number denier system describes yarn size using filament fibers weight in grams per 9,000 meters tex system determines yarn number in the same way for all yarns weight in grams per 1,000 meters

yarn regularity
describes the uniformity of the yarn throughout its length in terms of appearance & structure simple yarns alike in all its parts spun or filament yarn single yarn one strand simplest type

yarn regularitysimple yarns

ply yarn made by second twisting operation that combines two or more singles cord made by third twisting operation which twists ply yarns together rope heavy thick cord as least 2.5 cm or 1 inch or more in diameter that is twisted or braided together

yarn regularitysewing & embroidery thread

sewing thread yarn intended for stitching materials together available in broad range of sizes & structures often finished with lubricant or wax most sewing thread is S twist embroidery thread yarn intended for stitching designs or patterns on textile surface most often 2-ply, Z twist

yarn regularityfancy yarns

yarns that deliberately have unlike parts and are irregular at intervals irregularities may be subtle or very obvious intervals may be regular or random classified according to number of parts named for effect that dominates fabric

yarn regularityfancy yarns

yarn regularityfancy yarns

tweed yarn slub yarn spiral or corkscrew ratine yarns knot, spot, nub, or knop spike or snarl loop, curl or boucle yarn metallic chenille braided knit stitched

yarn regularitycomposite yarns

have both staple-fiber & filament fiber components include:
covered yarnscentral yarn completely covered by fiber or another yarn core-spun yarnsspun sheath of staple fibers around a core filament wrapped yarns (wrap-spun)have staple fiber core, wrapped or bound by filament fibers multi-polymer yarnsproduced by pressing staple fibers of any length or generic class in molten polymer stream fasciated yarnsgrouping of filament fibers wrapped with staple fibers

yarn performance & yarn quality

identified and measured so that appropriate yarn is used in fabric & product

standard test methods determine:

yarn size twist bulk evenness appearance performance

yarn quality refers to various factors such as strength and uniformitymore parallel fibers, tighter twist, more regular

participation activity fancy yarns identification

using pgs 244-245 in the text, define the following types of fancy yarns:
tweed yarn slub yarn spiral or corkscrew ratine yarns knot, spot, nub, or knop spike or snarl loop, curl or boucle yarn metallic chenille braided knit stitched

select 7 different fancy yarns from yarn grab bag mount them to your yarn identification sheet identify them using the text and complete the information required