Earth Science-CCCC-5.4.6.G.

1 and
5.4.6.G.2
9/29/14
Do Now: What is the term for Death of a
body of fresh water and what are the
steps of this process?
Eutrophication

Objective: SWBAT to understand the
composition, circulation and distribution of
the Ocean
Waves, Tides, and Currents
MOTION IN THE
OCEAN
Waves
A disturbance which
moves through or
over the surface of a
fluid Ocean Wave is
the movement of
energy over a body of
water
Mostly caused by
winds
(Also earthquakes,
volcanoes, grav. Pull)

Form of great energy

Wave Characteristics
Parts of a Wave
Crest = high point

Trough = low point

Height = vertical
distance from crest to
trough

Wavelength =
Horizontal distance
between crest to crest
or trough to trough
Waves

Water moves back to the ocean under the
waves in a current called an undertow.
Waves hitting the shore at an angle cause
a current along the shoreline called a
longshore current.
Waves
There are two types of waves in
the open ocean:
As waves approach the shore, they increase in
height and eventually crash as breakers or
whitecaps
Swells are rolling waves that move steadily
across the ocean.

Deadly Rip Current
Rip current- A rush of water that flows
rapidly back to sea through a narrow
opening

RIP CURRENT
- Caused by converging longshore currents
- Very dangerous ; Red Flag
- DO NOT fight rip current; swim parallel to shore to
get out of channel
Size of Wind Generated
Waves
Depends on 3 things:
Wind Speed
Wind Duration (length of
time wind blows)
Fetch Extent of open
water across which the
wind can blow
Water Motion in Waves
Water travels in vertical
circular orbits

Wave moves, particles
dont! (a little demonstration
with the cork and the
aquarium filled with water)
Importance of Waves
Shaping
Coastlines
Erode cliffs
Grind rock into sand

Ecology
Returns O
2
to water
Stir up food for filter
feeders
Caused by undersea quake or volcano
Wavelength = ~150 mi. Wave height = 6 1
Can NOT perceive in boat Speed > 500 mph
Slows down to ~25 mph at shore; water builds up to ~65+ ft
TSUNAMI -TIDAL WAVE
Tsunami Waves
Creation of a Tsunami
10/2/14
Do Now: What are the few ways a
Tsunami can start

Objective: SWBAT understand the
composition, circulation and distribution of
the Ocean

Tides
The daily rhythmic rise
and fall of the oceans
water along coastlines




High tide = rising, incoming
tide, flow
Low tide = receding, outgoing
tide, ebb
Slack tide = vertical movement
stops
Tides are very long,
slow waves
High tides occurs
every- 12 hours 25 min
And Low tides occur
every 12 hours 25min
So how much time
between a high and low
tide?
6 hours 12mins

Tidal day is 24 hours
50 min

NJ has 2 high and 2
low tides daily
1. Gravitational pull of
sun & moon on Earth
What Causes Tides?
Moon closer, therefore
> effect
Like magnet, pulls water
away from surface
= TIDAL BULGE
2. Centrifugal Forces
Produced by motions of
Earth, sun, & moon
Bulge on opposite side
because centr. force
> pull of moon
Types of Tides

2xs/month
Spring Tide
- Moon and sun are in direct
line with one another


- Results in unusually
high tidal range

-Tidal Range = vertical
distance between high &
low tides

-It occurs in the beginning
of the 1
st
and 3
rd
week of a
month at the New/ Full
Moon
-
10/3/14
Do Now: When do Neap/Spring tides
occur? And which have an unusually high
tides and unusually low tides?
Spring Tides- Occur in the beginning
of the 1
st
and 3
rd
week of a month at the New/ Full
Moon, unusually high tides and
Neap Tide- Occur 2
nd
and 4
th
week of a month at the 1
st

quarter and 3
rd
quarter moon
Objective: SWBAT understand the composition, circulation
and distribution of the Ocean

Neap Tide
sun and moon are at
right angles

Pulls cancel each
other out causes a
weak pull

unusually low tidal
range

2 xs / month
Spring vs. Neap Tides
Distance bet. Moon & Earth
Perigee Tides
Moon closest to earth, very high tides (causes
flooding)
Apogee Tides
Moon farthest away from earth, very low tides
Types of Tides Continued
Diurnal Tides
1 high & 1 low / day
Parts of Gulf of Mexico and Asia

Semi-Diurnal Tides
2 high & 2 low / day
Atlantic coasts of North America and Europe

Mixed
2 high & 2 low / day (height varies)
Pacific coast
TIDES
10/7/14
Do Now: What are the two things that
cause tides?
1. Gravitational pull of sun & moon on Earth
2. Centrifugal Forces- Produced by motions of Earth,
Sun, & Moon

Objective: SWBAT to describe the,
circulation and distribution of the Ocean

Importance of Tides
Fishing
Circulate water in bays &
estuaries
Tidal Energy
Circulates food, wastes, etc
Currents
What are currents?
- A large stream of moving
water that flows through
the ocean

Causes
- Wind
- Rotating Earth
- Density Changes
10/8/14
Do Now: What causes ocean currents?


Objective: SWBAT describe the circulation
and distribution of the Ocean

Surface Ocean Currents
Broad, slow drifts; never
cross equator
Wind generated; circular
gyres
Red is warm current
Blue is a cold current
Coriolis Effect- The effect of Earths rotation
on the direction of winds and currents
- N. Hemis clockwise; Right
- S. Hemis counterclockwise; Left


- Coriolis Effect
Gulf Stream
- Brings warm water
from equator north along
east coast of N. A.
- N. Atlantic
-Sometimes form eddies
circulating water that
pinches off from the
current
MIGRATION
NAVIGATION
WEATHER
Localized Surface Currents
Longshore Current.

Flows parallel to shore; move sediment



Deep Ocean Currents

Separated from surface
currents by boundary
called a Thermohaline
(diff in densities)
Flow beneath surface; cross
equator

Move North to South

10/10/14
Do Now: In the Coriolis effect which way
does the water/wind move in the Northern
and Southern Hemisphere ?


Objective: SWBAT describe the circulation
and distribution of the Ocean

Importance Of Deep Currents
Upwelling
Brings deep water to surf.
Circulates nutrients up
Moves plankton & larvae
OCEANS