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Basics
March 26,2010
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Weft
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Warp
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Needle Technology
Until relatively recently warp knitting machines
used four types of needle:
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Knitting Technology
Recently the bearded needle has been
dropped and development has focused on the
compound needle due to its greater rigidity
and ability to withstand higher yarn lapping
forces (see Loop formation) than the bearded
or latch needle.
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Knitting Technology
Furthermore at the highest speeds (above
2,500 cycles/minute) the issue of latch impact
on the hook starts to become a problem with
latch needles.
In contrast the compound needle can be
closed gently in a controlled manner even at
the highest knitting speeds.
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Tricot Knitting
In diagram (1.3 a & b)
the guide bar swings
from the front of the
machine (on the right
hand side of the
diagram) to the back of
the machine taking the
yarn through the gap
between two adjacent
needles.
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Tricot Knitting
Diagram (1.4 c) shows the
guide bar moving laterally
towards the observer. This is
known as a shog movement,
specifically the overlap that
wraps the yarn around the
beard of the needle.
Diagram (1.4 d) shows the
second swing in the cycle
taking the yarn between
adjacent needles back to the
front of the machine. At this
time the needle bar moves
upwards to place the overlap
below the open beard on the
shank of the needle.
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Tricot Knitting
Diagram (1.5 e) shows
the presser bar moving
forward to close all the
needles and in (1.5 f)
the closed needle
passes down through
the old loop and the
sinkers move backwards
to release the old loops
so that knock-over can
take place.
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Tricot Knitting
In figure (1.6 g) the sinker
bar moves forward to
secure the fabric prior to
the needle rising in the
next cycle and at this
stage the guide bar makes
a second shog, this time
an overlap which may be
of 0 to 8 needle spaces
depending on the
structure being knitted.
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Tricot Knitting
The machine type in this series of diagrams is a tricot
machine and on this type of machine there is no
continuous knock-over surface.
The belly' of the sinker provides support to the fabric
by preventing the underlaps from moving
downwards.
For this reason it is not a good idea to knit fabrics
with few underlaps such as net or lace on a tricot
machine.
They are much better knitted on a Raschel machine
with a continuous knock-over trick plate.
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Tricot Knitting
The diagrams you are about to see illustrate a
tricot machine with compound needles.
The sequence of events is almost exactly the
same as for the bearded needle with the
exception that the overlap lays the yarn into
the open hook and not onto the beard, and
the compound needle is closed by relative
displacement between the needle and the
closing element.
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Tricot Knitting
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Tricot Knitting
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Tricot Knitting
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Graphical Representation of
Warp Knitting Structures
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The run-in
.is the yarn consumption for one rack.
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Lapping Diagrams
With the exception of the
very simplest structures,
it is too time consuming
to represent warp knitted
fabric using stitch or loop
diagrams. For this reason
two methods of fabric
representation are
commonly used.
Lapping diagrams
Numerical representation
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Looping Diagrams
Actual Guide Movement
This is the symbolic image
of the technological process
of lapping. This diagram can
also be derived from a stitch
chart by not drawing in the
stitch legs but only the head
and feet of the stitches.
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Looping Diagrams
The needle heads are
represented on paper as
dots. The path of the guide
bars is drawn in front of and
behind the needles
The yarns will not lie as
straight in the fabric as they
do when they are
conducted through the
guide bars and around the
needles on the machine.
The yarn path in the lapping
diagram is rounded off to
represent this
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Looping Diagrams
Each dot represents one
needle and each
horizontal row of dots a
single stitch forming
process, i.e. one course.
Several rows of dots from
bottom to top represent
the succession of several
stitch-forming processes
or courses recording a
complete repeat of the
fabric structure.
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Pillar Lap
A pillar stitch (or chain
stitch) is a stitch
construction where lapping
of a yarn guide takes place
over the same needle.
As there are no lateral
connections between the
neighboring wales, the
stitches are only
interconnected in the
direction of the wales.
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Pillar Lap
Due to the absence of
underlaps, a fabric is not
created, only chains of
disconnected wales.
Single bar pillar lap is
technically possible only on
Raschel machines where the
trick plate acts a knock-over
bed.
On a tricot machine the
sinkers are unable to control
the position of the old loop
when there is no underlap
(pillar stitch) and so the
knitting of pillar stitch on its
own is impossible.
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Pillar Lap
Open or closed pillar
stitches can be
produced depending on
the guide bar
movement.
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(UL)
swing through
(OL)
Swing Back
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swing through
Swing Through
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2 and 1 Lap
Swing through
swing back 0
swing through
swing back 3
swing through
swing back 0
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3 and 1 Lap
Swing through
1
swing back 0
swing through
3
swing back 4
swing through
0
swing back 1
swing through
4
swing back 3
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4 and 1 Lap
Swing through
swing back
swing through
swing back
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Atlas Lap
The atlas construction
differs in that the laps
are continued over two
or more courses in one
direction and then
return in the other
direction to the point
where they started.
Lapping movement
0-1/2-1/3-2/4-3/5-4/3-4/2-3/1-2/
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video
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